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THE BASICS
No rocket science here. Just a little physics and some introductory
optics.
There are only a few basic things you need to know about getting dressed to look
your best. The main thing is that you should look like you got dressed without
having to consult a web guide; you want people to think that looking as good as
you do was effortless and easy. Follow the steps here, and soon you won't need
any steps to follow at all.
The basic basics.
Here's the handful of things to keep in mind:
Yipes! Stripes!
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Some stripes make you bigger,
some
stripes make you small
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One bad choice can be a whole pattern of misbehavior.
Most of us know that
wide horizontal stripes make the eye move left to right thus creating a
broadening effect, and vertical stripes coax the eyes up and down helping to
establish a thinner look.
Maybe that's why the necktie, that glorious
vertical stripe of fabric hangs (pun!) in there!
Large designs like plaids, focus on girth not length, whereas small patterns
or no patterns underscore thinness.
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Walk like a man.
Stand like a
supermodel
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A super models tip:
Stand and deliver!
Next time you're the subject of a photo op,
pretend there
is a clock at your feet.
Right foot goes at twelve and left foot at ten, then
angle your body to the left to give the person you're talking to (or the
paparazzi) a better, slimmer view.
It also makes for a better photo if you push
your shoulders back, keep your eyes wide open (smiling tends to close your
eyes), and lower your chin (unless you have a double chin, then raise it
slightly)!
Speak Body Language.
Your mom was right! One of the most
memorable things she ever said: "Stand up straight, young man." Why did she say
that? Because she knew that good posture will take five or 10 pounds off you
with no sweat.
So chest out, stomach in, posture straight, walk into that job
interview, sales presentation or singles bar with confidence -- and walk tall!
- Don't be a slouch!
Whether you are standing or sitting, slouching can suggest that you are
intimidated, that you lack confidence or that you're uninterested in what
others have to say. Swaying or bouncing your foot says that you are nervous.
- Keep your head up.
If you walk with your head down it lets other
people be more important than you. Look at where you're going.
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Make eye contact. Don’t
stare, but look the other person (persons) in the eye 40 to 60% of the time,
otherwise you’ll be perceived as having something to hide. When you are in a
meeting, it's okay to look laterally side to side, which appears intellectual
or powerful, but don't look up or down. It makes you look as if you've lost
your confidence
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Smile,
but "over smiling" gives the impression of weakness. A good smile says you
are confident, authoritative and friendly. A real smile lasts three or four
seconds; anything longer appears frozen or phony.
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Hands.
The
first place nervous energy shows is in your hands. Don't jingle your change,
play with your ring or fiddle with your tie. Hands clasped in front of you,
below your waist gives the impression of insecurity and looks like you don't
know what to do with your hands. Just let them hang at your sides, naturally
and casually.
To put your hands by your side and do nothing with your hands is powerful body
language. Don't hold one arm with the other, don't clasp your hands in front
or in back, and don't stick your hands in your pockets (it makes your hind end
look twice as wide.)
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Mirror, Mirror On The Wall.
People are most comfortable with people who are "like" themselves
(in dress, mannerisms, thoughts, etc.). Mirror: Try to "mirror" the other
person’s body position and mannerisms such as speech speed, (to a certain
degree).
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Voice pitch.
Keep your pitch low. There are more men on radio, because people respond
better to lower pitched voices. Don't end a sentence with a high note, in the
interrogative question tone. Instead phrase questions assertively; for example
say "I'd like to know when I can meet with you," as opposed to "when can I
meet with you?"
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On the phone. Look
into a mirror when you are talking on the phone. Ask yourself, would you want
to talk to the person you see in the mirror? A smile can be heard over the
phone, for example.
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Don't start by apologizing.
Some people start to speak by apologizing, or
preface a statement with, “forgive me for saying this”. Many of us do it
because we learned it from our mothers, and think it’s polite.
A note about FABRIC WEIGHT:
Heavier fabrics give the impression of a heavier body. (Tweed, flannel, bulky
sweaters).
Light to medium weight fabrics visually remove pounds. (cotton, twill, linen).
A Quick Application of our new Basic Knowledge:
Most of this is also covered under what to wear for specific body types.
To Look Taller and Thinner:
- Wear clothes that fit
well (too tight or too loose clothes add pounds).
- Wear solid colors,
preferably in the same color range, from head to toe.
- Avoid stiff fabrics and
nubby textures.
- Wear darker tones in
smooth fabrics with flat finishes.
- Limit stripes to very
fine, subdued, and close-together versions.
- Wear trousers at the
natural waist (never below).
- Wear suspenders with
button loops, never clips.
- Avoid too many
accessories.
- Be sure your tie
touches the waistband and that it is medium in width.
- Avoid busy patterns.
- Wear vertical stripes.
- Avoid elastic bottoms on sweaters, and jackets, which can cause the
material to bunch up at the waist and make you look heavier.
To Look
Shorter and/or Heavier
- Wear contrasting colors
in mix-and-match separates.
- Wear bolder colors as
accents.
- Wear patch pockets or
styling details.
- Wear layers.
- Elastic bottoms on sweaters, and jackets can cause the material to bunch
up at the waist and make you look heavier.
- Wear spread-color
shirts and slightly wider ties, with Windsor knots.
- Wear thin-soled,
trim-looking shoes.
- Select a top coat in a
huskier fabric. It can be full or belted and should
fall below the knee.
- Wear trousers with deep
pleats, cuffs, and full legs.
- Limit using the same
color from head to toe.
- Limit the use of narrow
vertical stripes, very narrow ties, and pointed lapels.
There. Now that you've got the hard stuff down, here's a whole rack of other
stuff a guy ought to know about his clothes:
Body
types: Your body type can be more important in finding the right
clothes than your taste.
What
colors say:
Need to make a statement? Let your hues cry.
How
women see colors:
To every man, there is a season.
How
men see colors: Who says
clothes have to be complicated?
Color Coordination:
A prime coat of color knowledge.
Coordination: Putting it all
together - Pattern, Color, Fabric Weight and Texture
-- Andy Gilchrist
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