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David Hober 

of Sam Hober Custom Made Neckties

 

How to Make a Necktie




First, decide on the style and size of the tie that you will make. In this example we will make a standard 57 inch long, 3 1/2 inch wide tie with a keeper sewn into the tie, using a 4 fold lined construction. The silk used is the Ask Andy internet forum club pattern #1, that we have woven in a plain weave Thai silk.

After consulting with our bespoke clients Noina will pick the construction for our ties on a bolt by bolt basis depending on the texture and weight of the silk.

Next, assemble your supplies. You will need a pattern, sharp pair of scissors or rotary cutter, silk pins, ruler, marking pencil, thread, a new needle, a label, 1 square yard of silk fabric and approximately 1 3/4 yards of wool for your interlining. You can make two ties with 1 yard of silk. The wool will make many interlinings. The number will depend on whether you make a one or two piece interlining.



Carefully unroll your silk and smooth it out with your hands. Place your pattern on top of the silk and draw a line around the edges of the fabric. For a 4-fold tie you will generally have a 3-piece pattern for the tie and a 1-piece pattern for your interlining. You will also have three smaller pieces for the keeper and tipping.

You can use a wool that you purchase at your local fabric store; we use 100% combed wool from Italy that is very springy and has two layers.

Be careful to cut your pattern line on a 45-degree bias angle to the selvage for both your silk and your wool.

Feel free to use a rotary cutter if you prefer. Be sure to use a new blade. After cutting press the silk using a regular iron set at the silk temperature setting. Do not iron the silk because you might leave a shiny mark.

Now draw the lines on the wrong side of the silk fabric where the tipping will be sewn to the main area of the tie.

Here we have drawn the lines on our pattern so that you can clearly see them. In real life you will draw these lines on the silk fabric.

Now the tricky part where you sew the bottom edge of the tie. The right side of the tipping faces the right side of the main part of the tie. Now make a couple of stitches to hold the two pieces together. Next open the fabric and make it flat. Sew the first line closest to the edge of the fabric on both sides of the triangle. Then sew across at a 45-degree angle to make the point of the triangle. After this you sew the inside corners.

Hint: use a piece of poster board cut into a triangle shape as a form to help to form the bottom of the tie.

Noina prefers to sew the ends of the tie by eye. Although harder to learn at first, this technique is great for forming a natural tip, and is part the Mulberrywood construction style.

Next sew the small end's tipping onto the tie. The technique is the same.

After finishing the previous step, you will turn the the top and bottom ends inside out.

Now sew the 3 main pieces of silk together. Note only two pieces are visible in the photograph.

 

Place the wool interlining inside the tie. Be careful to place the interlining snugly against the top and bottom ends of the tie.
Fold the silk to the centerline, and then fold again to the centerline for a total of four folds. The second fold to the centerline will overlap slightly.

Use silk pins to hold the folds in place.

 
Fold the keeper into a tube and sew it closed. Carefully place it inside the tie under the fold and then sew it into the tie. Then flatten the keeper and sew both sides onto the tie. By putting the keeper under the fold it will be stronger and last longer.

Be careful not to sew through the tie.

 
To close the tie you can use a hidden stitch or a saddle stitch. Both are attractive ways to close a tie. In this example we are using a hidden stitch.

Use a slip stitch loop at both the bottom and the top. The slip stitch gives the tie more flexibility.

 
Sew slowly and carefully from the bottom to the top, removing the silk pins as you go along.
Sew the label with small stitches on each of the two smaller sides. Do not simply tack the corners as the label may fall off easily.

Again be careful not to go all the way through the tie.

 
Finally! A finished necktie. Immediately try it on with your favorite shirt and post a picture for your friends and family to see.


Sam Hober Custom Made Neckties (formerly Mulberrywood) features hand-woven Thai silk neckties, pocket squares, scarves and shawls.

They (David & Noina) also make bespoke ties in any length, width, shape or construction including classic unlined seven-folds, and Italian style lined six-folds. They have a large selection of English, Italian, Irish and Thai silks to select from and can custom weave silks.  

Sam Hober pocket squares are handsewn and hand-rolled using handwoven Mudmee, Saiphone, & Iridescent Shot Thai silk fabrics.

Sam Hober also offers the "Official" Ask Andy pocket square (see photo at left) available HERE!

Read David's other Tutorial:

David Hober shows us how to make a Pocket Square

 


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