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 David
Hober
of
Sam Hober Custom Made Neckties
How
to Make a Necktie
First, decide on the style and size of the tie that you will
make. In this example we will make a standard 57 inch long, 3
1/2 inch wide tie with a keeper sewn into the tie, using a 4
fold lined construction. The silk used is the Ask Andy internet
forum club pattern #1, that we have woven in a plain weave Thai
silk.
After consulting with our bespoke clients Noina
will pick the construction for our ties on a bolt by bolt basis
depending on the texture and weight of the silk.
Next, assemble your supplies. You will need a
pattern, sharp pair of scissors or rotary cutter, silk pins,
ruler, marking pencil, thread, a new needle, a label, 1 square
yard of silk fabric and approximately 1 3/4 yards of wool for
your interlining. You can make two ties with 1 yard of silk. The
wool will make many interlinings. The number will depend on
whether you make a one or two piece interlining. |
Carefully unroll your silk and smooth it
out with your hands. Place your pattern on top of the silk and
draw a line around the edges of the fabric. For a 4-fold tie you
will generally have a 3-piece pattern for the tie and a 1-piece
pattern for your interlining. You will also have three smaller
pieces for the keeper and tipping.
You can use a wool that you purchase at
your local fabric store; we use 100% combed wool from Italy that
is very springy and has two layers.
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Be careful to cut your pattern line on a
45-degree bias angle to the selvage for both your silk and your
wool.
Feel free to use a rotary cutter if you
prefer. Be sure to use a new blade. After cutting press the silk
using a regular iron set at the silk temperature setting. Do not
iron the silk because you might leave a shiny mark.
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Now draw the lines on the wrong side of the
silk fabric where the tipping will be sewn to the main
area of the tie. |
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Here we have drawn the
lines on our pattern so that you can clearly see them.
In real life you will draw these lines on the silk
fabric.
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Now the tricky part
where you sew the bottom edge of the tie. The right side
of the tipping faces the right side of the main part of
the tie. Now make a couple of stitches to hold the two
pieces together. Next open the fabric and make it flat.
Sew the first line closest to the edge of the fabric on
both sides of the triangle. Then sew across at a
45-degree angle to make the point of the triangle. After
this you sew the inside corners.
Hint: use a piece of
poster board cut into a triangle shape as a form to help
to form the bottom of the tie.
Noina prefers to sew
the ends of the tie by eye. Although harder to learn at
first, this technique is great for forming a natural
tip, and is part the Mulberrywood construction style.
Next sew the small
end's tipping onto the tie. The technique is the same. |
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After finishing the
previous step, you will turn the the top and bottom ends
inside out.
Now sew the 3 main
pieces of silk together. Note only two pieces are
visible in the photograph.
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Place the wool
interlining inside the tie. Be careful to place the
interlining snugly against the top and bottom ends of
the tie. |
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Fold the silk to the
centerline, and then fold again to the centerline for a
total of four folds. The second fold to the centerline
will overlap slightly.
Use silk pins to hold
the folds in place.
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Fold the keeper into a
tube and sew it closed. Carefully place it inside the
tie under the fold and then sew it into the tie. Then
flatten the keeper and sew both sides onto the tie. By
putting the keeper under the fold it will be stronger
and last longer.
Be careful not to sew
through the tie.
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To close the tie you can
use a hidden stitch or a saddle stitch. Both are
attractive ways to close a tie. In this example we are
using a hidden stitch.
Use a slip stitch loop
at both the bottom and the top. The slip stitch gives
the tie more flexibility.
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Sew slowly and carefully
from the bottom to the top, removing the silk pins as
you go along. |
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Sew the label with small
stitches on each of the two smaller sides. Do not simply
tack the corners as the label may fall off easily.
Again be careful not to
go all the way through the tie.
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Finally! A finished
necktie. Immediately try it on with your favorite shirt
and post a picture for your friends and family to see. |
Sam
Hober Custom Made Neckties (formerly Mulberrywood) features
hand-woven Thai silk neckties, pocket squares, scarves and
shawls.
They
(David & Noina) also make bespoke ties in any length, width,
shape or construction including classic unlined seven-folds, and
Italian style lined six-folds. They have a large selection of
English, Italian, Irish and Thai silks to select from and can
custom weave silks.
Sam
Hober pocket squares are handsewn and hand-rolled using handwoven
Mudmee, Saiphone, & Iridescent Shot Thai silk fabrics.
Sam
Hober also offers
the "Official" Ask Andy pocket square (see
photo at left) available HERE! Read
David's other Tutorial:
David
Hober shows us how to make a Pocket Square
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