Crombie coats for women 2009

[Peura]

Greetings and salutations!

I was hoping some of you forum readers might help me with my problem regarding the make of Crombie coats today, as I could not get the answer I was looking for from the Crombie customer service. You see, I have been considering a certain coat from the maker - this one to be precise:

http://www.crombie.co.uk/p/Category_...kets/26928.htm

- however, as I live in Helsinki, Finland, I have my doubts whether the coat will be heavy enough for Finnish winters. Although the English need their "warms", their climate is, in the end, a bit different.. Now, I do already have coats for the worst days, but I need a new one for the -0 C (32 F) - -15 C (5 F) days. The questions I'm asking are: How heavy is the fabric used for the Crombie coats today? How thick is it in your opinion? Is there a difference between the ladies' and the men's coat fabrics?

I know Crombie has a good reputation as a maker of quality cloths and I've seen some nice, heavy-looking coats made from their fabrics in Ebay. Actually, my "Significant Other" has a lovely, heavy vintage cashmere coat made from their cloth which I envy greatly. Are Crombie's products also today as good as they were 30 or 40 years ago?

P.S. I tried to ask the weight of the coat fabrics directly from Crombie, but the "Web Site Manager" who emailed me could only tell me how heavy their coats were as individual pieces. And I thought it would be the simplest of questions for the manufacturer of the darn things!

[Padme]

It seems long enough to cover most of your legs. It doesn't say interlined though. The wool, angora, and cashmere mix to me seems like it would be warmer than just plain wool. It does have a hidden button front, which could almost be like 4 layers of wool right in the front area, and a back kick pleat instead of an open slit.

The Crombie company, which produces high-end wool and tweed clothing, was founded in Aberdeen, Scotland in 1805. The Grandholm Woollen Mill in Aberdeen was the A-listed factory building where Crombie's clothing was originally made, although production at that site ceased in 1990. In 2005 it was converted into a residential project by the Cala Group. (Wikipedia) This may be why it seems different than you so's coat.

Under the company's About page, it talks about elegant design, which to me says not for Helsinki winters. Mainly for looks. You may have to wear warmer underclothes if you get this coat.


I agree with you about weights of cloth. Fabric stores have no idea of what this is and why it's important. Tailors have know about this for years, and I'd like an easy way of feeling the fabric and trying to have a good idea of the weight myself.

[vwdolly]

I have sold a number of gents vintage crombie coats, the quality is always excellent. However im not sure anything that is modern manufactured is ever as good as it was years ago. Sadly most just no longer have the quality control they had back then. Having said that Crombie do make heavy , good quality coats. Its a shame if they cant tell you the fabric weight though, maybe you could get the individual weight as he offered and compare it to a coat you own

[Peura]

Hi Padme and vwdolly,

and thanks to you both for your replies.

Oh, Padme, you have changed yours! I want to thank you anyway for pointing out that the Crombie site doesn't mention "worsted". I'm a newbie in fabric weaves, but you're right: worsted twill is probably what I'm looking for. I too thought the wool mix sounds good, but in the end its the thickness of the weave that counts, especially if its both cold and windy (Helsinki winter weather at its worst). Last spring I ordered a cashmere coat from Aquascutum, again hoping that the English would know how to make clothes for dreadful conditions, but alas, there was no way I could have kept it. The fabric, even though it was visually very pleasing, felt like fleece! You could almost feel the air in the room flowing through the coat..

The fact about Crombie's mill being closed was also a good point. Maybe their business practices have changed totally from the earlier? I purchased a lighter jacket (to be used in when its +0 - +15 C warm) from them last year. I had to go and check its labels: there's actually no indication to where the thing has been manufactured. Could Crombie have moved their production from Scotland to some other countries?

vwdolly, I did the exact thing you suggested The Sales Manager told me their coats vary from 380 grams to 600 grams. I went and weighed the coat I'm plannig to replace: 2,7 kilos! They don't really compare, do they? Actually, the weights they stated feel so minuscule that I keep re-reading the email thinking I must have misinterpreted the whole thing, but no! Its "Our ladies coats weigh between.."

I was hoping someone here would own a modern coat from Crombie and could describe it. Anyone? I'm still open to new information, but I think I'll pass the coats this time, perhaps untill I get a chance to try them on personally in their stores..

[VAN DAMME]

Hi Padme and vwdolly,

and thanks to you both for your replies.

Oh, Padme, you have changed yours! I want to thank you anyway for pointing out that the Crombie site doesn't mention "worsted". I'm a newbie in fabric weaves, but you're right: worsted twill is probably what I'm looking for. I too thought the wool mix sounds good, but in the end its the thickness of the weave that counts, especially if its both cold and windy (Helsinki winter weather at its worst). Last spring I ordered a cashmere coat from Aquascutum, again hoping that the English would know how to make clothes for dreadful conditions, but alas, there was no way I could have kept it. The fabric, even though it was visually very pleasing, felt like fleece! You could almost feel the air in the room flowing through the coat..

The fact about Crombie's mill being closed was also a good point. Maybe their business practices have changed totally from the earlier? I purchased a lighter jacket (to be used in when its +0 - +15 C warm) from them last year. I had to go and check its labels: there's actually no indication to where the thing has been manufactured. Could Crombie have moved their production from Scotland to some other countries?

vwdolly, I did the exact thing you suggested The Sales Manager told me their coats vary from 380 grams to 600 grams. I went and weighed the coat I'm plannig to replace: 2,7 kilos! They don't really compare, do they? Actually, the weights they stated feel so minuscule that I keep re-reading the email thinking I must have misinterpreted the whole thing, but no! Its "Our ladies coats weigh between.."

I was hoping someone here would own a modern coat from Crombie and could describe it. Anyone? I'm still open to new information, but I think I'll pass the coats this time, perhaps untill I get a chance to try them on personally in their stores..

Best if you leave it then and buy a coat in Finland

[Padme]

I realized I was repeating back your orginal post. When I was answering I was thinking about what I had in my fabric collection. A melton wool that would be tightly woven and waterproof/warmer, a worsted, lighter weight than the melton, camel hair, warm but can't hold up, and a Harris Tweed (from Scotland looms) not as tight, warm, rougher to the feel.

I also used to get a magazine from Finland, Ottobre Design, and used to be on their Yahoo group. They showed some YouTube clips, and talked about the weather. It can be biting cold, but you did say you had other coats.

I also checked out how these coats were lined on the website. Acetate for an expensive coat on some of these. I can't remember what was on the one you were looking at, but it could wear thin after awhile. It is an overcoat, meant for layering, so you could have some silk or wool underthings about. A 4th or 5th coat for show, but I just didn't think an everyday work type of coat. You'd have to let it dry and air out, there's the dry cleaning.

I've got a warm to me faux shearling I can throw in the washer/dryer, and a puffy ski jacket. I have a Burberry that has a zip wool lining, and a shorter coat like the one you showed that has to be dry cleaned. I wear different scottish tartans with that one. (They have the the official Scottish tartan label on them, and they are nice and warm. My husband will use them too.)

Van Damme might have the right idea. There may be some nice stores there.

[Peura]

Van Damme: Indeed I would, if only I could find what I want from here!

- Its funny that you happen to be from Italy! Believe it or not, Italy and Italian cashmere blends are very, very much in vogue here right now I've gone through six big department stores and clothes shops and found many, many light, Italian made coats stocked! Well, to be honest, on friday I finally stumbled across a few thick wool coats, but unfortunately the fit was terrible on me. Anyhow, I don't want this thread to become only a rant on how I can't find a decent coat.. I'm just trying to find "a perfect coat" for my needs. I really like the style of Crombie's coats, but I wanted to be sure of what I'm buying before placing an order.

Padme: Thanks again! I'm surprised to hear that you have so much knowledge about Finland! How did you discover the magazine?

I think you pointed out some essential details about the Crombie site:
a) no mentioning about the weave (I do need to educate myself more about the types of weave!)
b) blend of wools indicate a lighter type of cloth
c) light lining (of somewhat dubious quality?)
I have to say I might have been too optimistic in thinking that these coats could be good for my needs. I was perhaps blinded by my wishes.. You're right in stressing that the Crombies are meant for layering. It makes logical and stylistic sense. I think the coats, though very classic, would aesthetically go well with sharp, snazzy suits, etc. Regrettably, I don't wear suits or blazer jackets or pretty much anything really layerable because my work community is very casual. Its just mainly knitted cardigans, sweaters and cuffed shirts for me, and even those my co-workers sometimes seem to consider a bit too fancy. - Maybe I should use this as a chance to justify the tweed suit I've been dreaming about

Can you tell me a bit more why you think camel hair isn't long-lasting? I have one vintage camel coat which I love. Its a bit worn out from places but I thought its because of the age of the thing. Is it usual for camel hair to scuff fast?

[Padme]

Thank you.

I discovered Ottobre through the sewing boards. I don’t want to get into trouble mentioning sites, but they discussed the magazine there. I have several years worth, but liked Burda another similar magazine better. The magazine talks of Finland. People who live there who share, TV.

Books on fabric, sewing books in general, web searches. Teachers. My sewing teacher right now has got so much in his head, and he really loves what he does. The coats made from the 2 humped camel are taken from the softer hair. The coarser hair from the same camel is used in rugs or blankets. The soft, downy hair is used for the jackets and it’s 1 and ½ times as warm as similar weight fabric, but not as durable and wears readily which is why they blend it with wool to make it more durable or less expensive. (Claire Shaeffer’s Fabric Sewing Guide)
Some of the men’s style blogs may have also discussed this. I’m thinking they did.

Sewing boards are good places to learn. Sewist blogs also. They can discuss in great detail, answer questions, share their knowledge through pictures.

Tailors boards, and their blogs, if they have one. They really know their art. They are very good at what they do. They take the time to discuss in a lot of detail. They take pictures. They get this whole conversation thing going back and forth. It’s great.

Men’s style blogs are a great source of information. They will take you to some wonderful places through their pictures. Teach you about styles, fabrics, weights, you never noticed or knew before. Take things apart and show you how things are made. They can even take some sight seeing pictures for you.

I’m still learning about fabric types, and I think you have to make a study of it. Weights are a whole new world to me. A blend could be a lighter or a heavier cloth. What if a manufacturer wove the some of the coarser camel hair with the finer camel hair and threw in a thicker wool weave to boot? My sewing teacher says it’s a new world in fabrics with natural and synthetics. I’m learning a lot about fabrics on the tailors boards. Some will have cloth made or commissioned, and show pictures. My mother was actually my teacher on linings. Maybe this manufacturer thought you would wear the coat a season or two and get another, or that you would not wear the coat on a day to day basis. I prefer Bemburg rayon for a more durable coat.

When I shop, it takes me a long time to make up my mind if it’s a big ticket item. I just bought a little black dress from a mart store (one of those big box type of stores), but it was a great price, lined and had an invisible zipper. Sewing is like cooking, you have to put some time and study into it, but it does give you lots of freedom in terms of fabric choice, style, or price.
You'll need a cup of tea for this post.

[vwdolly]

Hi Padme, You are right these forums are a great source for information. I sell mens vintage clothing and have for a number of years, its always good to have somewhere to go to read up and ask experts.
There are plenty on here and other forums who are always happy to help

[Padme]

I agree. It was a search on Sloane Rangers that I found the British board. I thought I had died and gone to heaven. The Trad. board is where I get a lot of valuable information for dressing my husband, and you know about the food board. There's just too many good things to put in one post, but I do plan to read through as much as possible.

[vwdolly]

Mmm i spend hours reading all the posts

[Padme]

I go in bits and pieces. The British board will be my favorite. I like the Interchange board. Then on the fashion, I've just been looking at interesting topics that seem to catch my attention. The Blazer for under $500, washing shirts with mop buttons. Went and looked around Becketts (not sure of the spelling), the store link up in the corner.

[vwdolly]

I tend to read through anything interesting that catches my eye, i do like reading the sartorial hints and tips though

[Padme]

Lots of knowledge and wisdom.

[vwdolly]

Yes wisdom is abound on here, sartorial & otherwise

[Padme]

(laughing) I need to go back through and read more, and in more ways than one. I was looking at some of the English authors and I've never heard of some of them. When we visit Oxford, I'd like to be a little more informed. I've watched some Inspector Lewis on Master Piece Theater, (they've set the show in Oxford), and it seems everyone is very well read there. Of course that's TV, but still.

I was checking our account online, and it seems the State Dept. has put all of our stuff through. We should have gone through the Post Office years ago. This was too easy.

[vwdolly]

When are you planning on visiting Oxford ? I do hope its in the summer when the weather is better, although we are lucky if we get 2 weeks sunshine some years

[Padme]

London first. Depends on our children. I need to know where they will be. I'm planning a short trip just to see how things work out. I want to see Liberty of London, and my husband wants to see the British Museum. I've heard airfare can be different at different times of the year. This will be a get our feet wet type of trip.

[vwdolly]

You will love London, there is so much to see & do whatever the time of year. Im sure if you are planning on doing it soon you will definately get wet feet

[vwdolly]

You will also be spoilt for choice when clothes shopping

[Padme]

I was just thinking of that all morning since reading your last post. I need to prepare for wetter weather.

And, I am anxious to see how women dress in London compared to Dallas women.

I'm also anxious to check out some of your shops.

I have to drive one child back and forth to college, and I don't think the holidays are a good time to leave younger children alone. I don't know what the weather is like there in January, February or March. My husband says once we've got the passports, it's easier to get time off and go. But I don't want to spend a lot one month for 2 tickets, when they will be cheaper another month.

[Padme]

You will also be spoilt for choice when clothes shopping

What shops do you have?

[vwdolly]

I was just thinking of that all morning since reading your last post. I need to prepare for wetter weather.

And, I am anxious to see how women dress in London compared to Dallas women.

I'm also anxious to check out some of your shops.

I have to drive one child back and forth to college, and I don't think the holidays are a good time to leave younger children alone. I don't know what the weather is like there in January, February or March. My husband says once we've got the passports, it's easier to get time off and go. But I don't want to spend a lot one month for 2 tickets, when they will be cheaper another month.

London is very cosmopolitan in dress code. If you come during jan/feb/march you will need lots of warm clothes & a brolly. Im not sure about ticket prices at different times of year, it may be worth asking in the gents areas of the forum as many of them travel frequently.
As for shops its worth doing a search on google and mapping out some routes before you come, that way you wont miss any as there are so many

[vwdolly]

This one has some good idea of streets, just do a search on individual streets mentioned for more info on shops:

http://www.talkingcities.co.uk/londo...pping_main.htm

[vwdolly]

You can also get a travel quite quite inexpensively that will cover tubes & buses so you can go all over very easily.
I was born in London but no longer live there, i do however go ocasionaly when I get the chance. I last went around 3 months ago for a days shopping and then onto a "pop concert" at night , I was quite exhausted but loved the hustle & bustle