# The Ask a Tailor Thread



## Leighton (Nov 16, 2009)

Not a tailor, but maybe we can get a good one to subscribe to this thread and answer our questions.

I'll start.

What is the correct way to accomplish waist suppression? How can I tell the correct method from the incorrect method?

edit: Answer here. Thanks A Tailor!

edit 2:
I just read it all, and... NOOOO!!!!!! Why must my body shape require the more expensive alteration!!??? ARghhhhghghghghhghghghg (sorry, needed to vent a little on the internet)


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## ccsabathia (Jun 19, 2008)

Pardon me if this is a silly question, but would it be possible to have detachable cuff and collar for shirts? A few days ago I read a blog about the sartorialist's shopping experience in Italy. He bought some shirts and the shirt maker provided him a spare set of collar and cuffs. Reading that blog made me think how cool it would be to have detachable collar and cuff. One could change a shirt from a button down to a spread collar to a windsor collar Likewise, it would be cool to alternate between french cuff, barrel cuff, cocktail cuff, etc. Is something like this possbile(maybe by use of velcro or a snap on button) without the shirt seeming very unsightly?


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

Leighton said:


> Not a tailor, but maybe we can get a good one to subscribe to this thread and answer our questions.
> 
> I'll start.
> 
> What is the correct way to accomplish waist suppression? How can I tell the correct method from the incorrect method?


there is more than one way to skin that cat. it all depends on the conditions.
to get this information go to search. ask for "most common jacket alterations".
scroll down to that thread title.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

Alexander, help the man.


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

ccsabathia said:


> Pardon me if this is a silly question, but would it be possible to have detachable cuff and collar for shirts? A few days ago I read a blog about the sartorialist's shopping experience in Italy. He bought some shirts and the shirt maker provided him a spare set of collar and cuffs. Reading that blog made me think how cool it would be to have detachable collar and cuff. One could change a shirt from a button down to a spread collar to a windsor collar Likewise, it would be cool to alternate between french cuff, barrel cuff, cocktail cuff, etc. Is something like this possbile(maybe by use of velcro or a snap on button) without the shirt seeming very unsightly?


 Yes, that is possible. We normally make the shirt with an attached Single Link cuff. Attaching a French cuff to this is easy. Attaching a button cuff is a bit sloppy because the small side of the placket is reversed, but it's barely visible. The collar is, of course, a tunic (band) collar with the requisite three holes for attaching a collar.

I've often referred to this as a "travel shirt" as one shirt body can, with the necessary collars and cuffs, serve in place of as many as five or more shirts.

Here are a few ideas:

https://www.customshirt1.com/ 
https://www.customshirt1.com/

The only caveat is that you can't change to a button-down collar for the buttons would always show on the shirt front when you were using non-button-down collar styles.​


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## Leighton (Nov 16, 2009)

After reading that link, and absorbing more information than I thought was out there....

I begin to wonder... So, I've got pretty much no fat on my body and a large chest relative to my waist and height. According to the commentary, the suit should be taken in from both the front and the rear to accomplish the desired waist suppression. But every tailor I've been to has just pinned the back of the suit. Now, I understand that altering the front is very costly, but does it produce a better fit? What exactly is the end result difference between Plan A and D?

Sorry if any of the questions have answers already. I have no idea how to search for those questions.


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## lt114 (Jul 30, 2009)

Leighton said:


> After reading that link, and absorbing more information than I thought was out there....
> 
> I begin to wonder... So, I've got pretty much no fat on my body and a large chest relative to my waist and height. According to the commentary, the suit should be taken in from both the front and the rear to accomplish the desired waist suppression. But every tailor I've been to has just pinned the back of the suit. Now, I understand that altering the front is very costly, but does it produce a better fit? What exactly is the end result difference between Plan A and D?
> 
> Sorry if any of the questions have answers already. I have no idea how to search for those questions.


You can also move the button in the front to get more waist suppression.


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

lt114 said:


> You can also move the button in the front to get more waist suppression.


That's a cheap way to cheat alterations. I would never recommend this. On a double breasted jacket it wouldn't be as noticeable, though that would be a lot of buttons to move.


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## Taxler (Oct 22, 2006)

Leighton said:


> After reading that link, and absorbing more information than I thought was out there....
> 
> I begin to wonder... So, I've got pretty much no fat on my body and a large chest relative to my waist and height. According to the commentary, the suit should be taken in from both the front and the rear to accomplish the desired waist suppression. But every tailor I've been to has just pinned the back of the suit. Now, I understand that altering the front is very costly, but does it produce a better fit? What exactly is the end result difference between Plan A and D?
> 
> Sorry if any of the questions have answers already. I have no idea how to search for those questions.


The idea is to remove the extra fabric without disturbing the balance of the jacket or creating any tension lines. Examples of having done it wrong would be things like the front sides pulling open, gaping at the collar, or stress lines stretching across the back.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

as i explained in the thread if its loose in the back then you take in the back.
a jacket thats very loose can be taken in at the sides and back and still be loose in front
now if its the front thats loose take in the front. but it costs much more. 
but if its loose all around = $$$$$$$

i have done the full job a few times. customers were satisfied with the results.
BUT NOT THE PRICE


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## 127.72 MHz (Feb 16, 2007)

a tailor said:


> as i explained in the thread if its loose in the back then you take in the back.
> a jacket thats very loose can be taken in at the sides and back and still be loose in front
> now if its the front thats loose take in the front. but it costs much more.
> but if its loose all around = $$$$$$$
> ...


Your expertise and unbias opinions as well as *never* soliciting your services are *the* main reason I love this web site.
Thank you so much for frequenting Ask Andy About Clothes.

My best wishes,


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## Leighton (Nov 16, 2009)

127.72 MHz said:


> Your expertise and unbias opinions as well as *never* soliciting your services are *the* main reason I love this web site.
> Thank you so much for frequenting Ask Andy About Clothes.
> 
> My best wishes,


+1

Thanks for clarifying for me what I should have gotten out of that thread. 

I guess I need more experience to figure out where the slack is generated from. Although, I can probably assume both back and front...


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## zblaesi (Dec 30, 2009)

Probably a very simple question, but what exactly is the difference between "long," "regular," and "portly" sized jackets? Obviously they are for people of different sizes, but what exactly are the differences?


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## Benjamin E. (Mar 2, 2007)

Can the chest of a jacket be taken in? How about just in front?


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## David Reeves (Dec 19, 2008)

Benjamin E. said:


> Can the chest of a jacket be taken in? How about just in front?


Yes you can use all of the seams to take in a jacket. You can also take the difference from the front the back or a bit of both. You can also use the darts at the front.


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## Leighton (Nov 16, 2009)

zblaesi said:


> Probably a very simple question, but what exactly is the difference between "long," "regular," and "portly" sized jackets? Obviously they are for people of different sizes, but what exactly are the differences?


Short, regular, and long refer to the length of the jacket and sleeves. The bottom of the jacket should just cover your butt. If you wear a R, and you buy an L, it will be too long, and vice versa for short.

As for portly, I imagine it means there is more room in the front for the bigger belly, and the pants would also accomodate the bigger stomach, but I could be wrong about that.


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## Leighton (Nov 16, 2009)

Are these easy fixes? First two are pics of the lining. Last pic is of the rear pocket on the pants. Lining is quarter lined; of the type seen on a lot of Oxxfords. Any idea of the hours of labor?


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

Leighton said:


> Are these easy fixes? First two are pics of the lining. Last pic is of the rear pocket on the pants. Lining is quarter lined; of the type seen on a lot of Oxxfords. Any idea of the hours of labor?


the first is an easy just a few dollars.
second, i cant make out what that is.
third, thats a b...h. no mater what is tried its not going to be really good. the fabric has been shreded its not a simple seam opened up. theres nothing to sew on. it will take much hand work and time and ingenuity. you will be able to use the trousers . cost will depend on how the tailor values his work.


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## Leighton (Nov 16, 2009)

a tailor said:


> the first is an easy just a few dollars.
> second, i cant make out what that is.
> third, thats a b...h. no mater what is tried its not going to be really good. the fabric has been shreded its not a simple seam opened up. theres nothing to sew on. it will take much hand work and time and ingenuity. you will be able to use the trousers . cost will depend on how the tailor values his work.


Its the lining of a pocket. You can see the threads pulling just above my fingers there. Basically the same problem as #1.

Hmm.... Can something simple be done to prevent further damage of #3? I can live with it, its on the rear pocket, I just don't want it getting worse. Heck, if a patch can be applied and the hole made smaller looking, that'd be great.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

Leighton said:


> Its the lining of a pocket. You can see the threads pulling just above my fingers there. Basically the same problem as #1.
> 
> Hmm.... Can something simple be done to prevent further damage of #3? I can live with it, its on the rear pocket, I just don't want it getting worse. Heck, if a patch can be applied and the hole made smaller looking, that'd be great.


in that case number 2 will be fine dont worry.

the pocket damage can be pulled together by hand and machine. there will be a slight irregular look at the repair but nothing huge. it all depends on the tailors skill at such repairs. 
the texture of the cloth helps a lot.

you might have the pocket closed up so that you are not tempted to use it.


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

What exactly is a _cuff clam_ and can it be used with an iron to create a barrel shirt cuff or is it just for steaming jacket sleeves, or both or neither? Thanks, masters.​


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

Peak and Pine said:


> What exactly is a _cuff clam_ and can it be used with an iron to create a barrel shirt cuff or is it just for steaming jacket sleeves, or both or neither? Thanks, masters.​


It is an attachment for a machine - a pressing buck - which is shaped for pressing cuffs (usually two at a time).

It does a wonderful job of permanently pressing in the wrinkles which occur when the cuffs are washed.

It derives from the name of the standard pressing machine you'll see at your dry cleaners which is often called a clamshell press.


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

Alexander Kabbaz said:


> It does a wonderful job of permanently pressing in the wrinkles which occur when the cuffs are washed.


Well that's not so swell, is it?

The thing I'm referencing is this...which looks a llittle like Vincent Price half-way through his transformation in the original _The Fly_...

What _would_ you use to hand-iron a starched cuff to barrel specs, a tailor's ham, a pressing mitt, a soup can, my own wrist, hell no, or some such that I've yet to imagine? Thanks again.

P&P

Last-minute edit to include this exciting close-up of the above...

​
...which, since I've already ordered it, may end up in Kabbaz's stocking at year's end. If he continues to be bad.​


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

Peak and Pine said:


> Well that's not so swell, is it?
> 
> The thing I'm referencing is this...which looks a llittle like Vincent Price half-way through his transformation in the original _The Fly_...
> 
> ...


 Man, I wouldn't want that thing anywhere near my ---.

Moving rapidly on, what I would use to hand-press a cuff to any specs is ... _*an iron*_. Unique, no?

Preferably 7 pounds of steam-spewing cast iron. On a flat pressing table.

As to that _thing_, maybe it will work as a nutcracker? But keep it away from mine!

And why does it contain a block of Vermont white cheddar?


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## NukeMeSlowly (Jul 28, 2005)

*What is wrong with my shirt?*

Got some issues I want to iron out before I order another shirt.

Shoulders & chest.










What is going on in the circled areas with the rippling, bunching, & excess fabric? 
Is the chest too tight?
Is this a shoulder slope issue? This shirt was made with/for a "regular" shoulder. Should I have asked for a sloped shoulder?
Are the shoulders too wide or too narrow, or about right?
My left shoulder is higher than my right. Is there a way to accomodate this?

Sleeve fullness.










As the circled area makes extra, extra clear, the sleeves are especially baggy from the bicep down to the forearm.
In terms of narrowing the sleeves, how much material needs to go? An inch? More?
What is the best way to clearly convey the necessary change in measurement? "From the bicep to the forearm narrow the sleeves x inches "?

Thanks in advance.


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## yoippari (Sep 30, 2008)

I know it isn't recommended and if done is usually expensive but what are the options for shortening a jacket?

Could two birds be killed with one stone by taking apart a shoulder and bringing the jacket up from there which I would assume pull up the arm hole which would require altering the sleeve to fit the smaller arm hole?

Like I said, I assume it would be expensive but in the theoretical frictionless vacuum where time and money are no object is this possible?


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

Since no tailor has yet come forth to answer the post immediately above, until they do I would like to venture that it's possible to clip a fingernail by extracting the nail with plyers, clipping it at the quick, then reinserting the nail. Possible, but bloody. ​


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

Peak and Pine said:


> Since no tailor has yet come forth to answer the post immediately above, until they do I would like to venture that it's possible to clip a fingernail by extracting the nail with plyers, clipping it at the quick, then reinserting the nail. Possible, but bloody. ​


That sounds about right to me. Technically, though, it's pl*i*ers.


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## Leighton (Nov 16, 2009)

Can a jacket lapel be made thinner? Ie, reduce the width. Seems theoretically possible, but the more I think about it, the more I think the cost would be if it is indeed possible.


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

Leighton said:


> Can a jacket lapel be made thinner? Ie, reduce the width. Seems theoretically possible, but the more I think about it, the more I think the cost would be if it is indeed possible.


To do so properly, assuming a handmade canvas, the canvas will have to be cut. In doing so, the tailor will be cutting through the padding stitches. The cut ones will have to be knotted to prevent unraveling. And that's before you even begin to work on the shell cloth.

With a fused canvas, if it is fused to the shell cloth, the mess would be untenable.


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## David Reeves (Dec 19, 2008)

yoippari said:


> I know it isn't recommended and if done is usually expensive but what are the options for shortening a jacket?
> 
> Could two birds be killed with one stone by taking apart a shoulder and bringing the jacket up from there which I would assume pull up the arm hole which would require altering the sleeve to fit the smaller arm hole?
> 
> Like I said, I assume it would be expensive but in the theoretical frictionless vacuum where time and money are no object is this possible?


Yes it's possible. I have done this at try on stage but in 12 years I have never actually executed this alteration on a finished garment. That said I believe it would be possible but you would have to remember that the welt, pocket, sleeves and notch on the lapel would all be raised.

You would be better shortening the coat and tightening the under arm cut.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

Leighton said:


> Can a jacket lapel be made thinner? Ie, reduce the width. Seems theoretically possible, but the more I think about it, the more I think the cost would be if it is indeed possible.


the buttonhole gets in the way.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

Leighton said:


> Not a tailor, but maybe we can get a good one to subscribe to this thread and answer our questions.
> 
> I'll start.
> 
> ...


by taking in more at the level of the waist.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

Leighton said:


> Short, regular, and long refer to the length of the jacket and sleeves. The bottom of the jacket should just cover your butt. If you wear a R, and you buy an L, it will be too long, and vice versa for short.
> 
> As for portly, I imagine it means there is more room in the front for the bigger belly, and the pants would also accomodate the bigger stomach, but I could be wrong about that.


you are right on both counts.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

NukeMeSlowly said:


> Got some issues I want to iron out before I order another shirt.
> 
> Shoulders & chest.
> 
> ...


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

yoippari said:


> I know it isn't recommended and if done is usually expensive but what are the options for shortening a jacket?
> 
> Could two birds be killed with one stone by taking apart a shoulder and bringing the jacket up from there which I would assume pull up the arm hole which would require altering the sleeve to fit the smaller arm hole?
> 
> Like I said, I assume it would be expensive but in the theoretical frictionless vacuum where time and money are no object is this possible?


yes but its even more complicated than you state. 
go to search ask for "the high armhole" dated 10/24/06.


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## yoippari (Sep 30, 2008)

Another question that is more for reference than me actually wanting to have it done. Can non functional buttons on a cuff be made functional? When can they and when not? And why? What is missing or is there that prevents or allows it?


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## David Reeves (Dec 19, 2008)

yoippari said:


> Another question that is more for reference than me actually wanting to have it done. Can non functional buttons on a cuff be made functional? When can they and when not? And why? What is missing or is there that prevents or allows it?


They can for sure. I do this alteration about once a week.


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## TheWGP (Jan 15, 2010)

What is different about lengthening an overcoat sleeve from a suit/jacket sleeve? I just took an overcoat in to two different tailors - there's additional material and lining folded up inside the sleeves - and both quoted $50+ to do it, compared to $15-20 for suit/jacket sleeves. One of them said something about needing to add a reinforced piece of lining, and the other said something about the cut being narrower at the bottom compared to a suit jacket. Sorry if this is kind of basic, but what's the skinny?

This is the coat, if it makes any difference (it's wool):
Links so as not to clutter the thread with photos.
https://s996.photobucket.com/albums/af88/TheWGP/?action=view&current=IMG_7433.jpg

https://s996.photobucket.com/albums/af88/TheWGP/?action=view&current=IMG_7434.jpg

https://s996.photobucket.com/albums/af88/TheWGP/?action=view&current=IMG_7435.jpg


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

TheWGP said:


> What is different about lengthening an overcoat sleeve from a suit/jacket sleeve? I just took an overcoat in to two different tailors - there's additional material and lining folded up inside the sleeves - and both quoted $50+ to do it, compared to $15-20 for suit/jacket sleeves. One of them said something about needing to add a reinforced piece of lining, and the other said something about the cut being narrower at the bottom compared to a suit jacket. Sorry if this is kind of basic, but what's the skinny?
> 
> This is the coat, if it makes any difference (it's wool):
> Links so as not to clutter the thread with photos.
> ...


your photos do not detail the sleeves very well.
most tailors charge somewhat more for overcoat sleeves. they are a bit of a bother but not bad. if there is a "cuff", or a "strap" there is still more work.
ok there is fabric and lining inside there but. when you let that out what takes its place?
wool or lining must be added or even both. 
i think they just did not know how to explain it to you.


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## TheWGP (Jan 15, 2010)

a tailor said:


> your photos do not detail the sleeves very well.
> most tailors charge somewhat more for overcoat sleeves. they are a bit of a bother but not bad. if there is a "cuff", or a "strap" there is still more work.
> ok there is fabric and lining inside there but. when you let that out what takes its place?
> wool or lining must be added or even both.
> i think they just did not know how to explain it to you.


Ahh - that makes more sense the way you explain it. No "cuff" or "strap" at all - just a plain sleeve with buttons just sewn straight on. But it makes sense that there needs to be something added on the INside after you let stuff out, which is what I think the one guy was trying to say - but the way he was explaining it he got really frustrated and ended up saying "well it just has to have material added on to the end!" which made no sense to me. So I would probably chalk it up to miscommunication... thanks much


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## pell (Mar 7, 2010)

*custom casual pants - altering thighs*

These pants were made by a local seamstress. She rarely makes clothes but I like her work generally.

The pants here are a twill, somewhat stiff, and modeled after a pair of old work pants, mechanic-style.

I don't care for a relaxed fit. These seem to be that. I would like to tell her exactly how I think the alteration should be made then hear what she thinks. So for the thighs where should the fix be made? On the outside seam down the leg, the inside, etc? Also, note how the crotch protrudes somewhat unnaturally. Could there be a problem directly underneath where all the parts come together? Or maybe the problems are functions of the stiff fabric and that after washings things will work out so to speak.

Thanks.

(I'm clear that they should be lengthened.)

https://img299.imageshack.us/i/p1000688.jpg/
https://img242.imageshack.us/i/p1000684j.jpg/
https://img28.imageshack.us/i/p1000691.jpg/
https://img169.imageshack.us/i/p1000690g.jpg/


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## LeonS (Apr 23, 2008)

Hello,

Got my suit back from dry cleaners and the collar looks like this. I know that it was not the case before and that is the first time I dry cleaned this suit. Of course the dry cleaners claimed that the suit was defective :icon_smile_big: I would really appreciate if any of the tailors could explain me what is really going on.

https://img28.imageshack.us/i/suitpic.jpg/

Thank you.


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## LeonS (Apr 23, 2008)

anyone?


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

Hard to tell from the photo, but that could be the felt undercollar showing due to incorrect pressing of the collar fold.


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## LeonS (Apr 23, 2008)

Alexander Kabbaz said:


> Hard to tell from the photo, but that could be the felt undercollar showing due to incorrect pressing of the collar fold.


Thank you for your reply. That is what I thought and told to my drycleaners but they kept blaming the suit, I insisted that they press it again, but it did not do any good, it is still showing. I am puzzled, it never happened before with the suits they drycleaned for me but on the other hand the suit was fine until they drycleaned it. Can it really be due to poor tailoring?


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## J. Andrew (Nov 19, 2009)

Is it possible that the collar shrunk and the felt did not? I have never seen/heard of anything like that happening (which is why you dryclean) but who knows?


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

LeonS said:


> Thank you for your reply. That is what I thought and told to my drycleaners but they kept blaming the suit, I insisted that they press it again, but it did not do any good, it is still showing. I am puzzled, it never happened before with the suits they drycleaned for me but on the other hand the suit was fine until they drycleaned it. Can it really be due to poor tailoring?


It could - or is could be poor fusing if the collar is fused.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

pell said:


> These pants were made by a local seamstress. She rarely makes clothes but I like her work generally.
> 
> The pants here are a twill, somewhat stiff, and modeled after a pair of old work pants, mechanic-style.
> 
> ...


it looks like the waist is too high in the back only.
this can be taken care of by opening the waist band and lowering it at the center back. 
the rise at the back fork may need to be deepened also.
in doing this there is a tendency to do it to an extreme. then it becomes a disaster.
some breaking back there is useful for sitting and walking. 
dont ask for it to be absolutely smooth. 
if the results come out to your liking. she can change her pattern to match.
then if you order another that alteration will not be needed.


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## windsor (Dec 12, 2006)

I have a pair of pants from a custom suit that need more room in the waist. I had the dry cleaners alterations lady let them out "all the way" but her sewing still left half an inch material on either side of the rear seat seam. There on side seams right behind the front pockets and there is almost one inch of fabric beyond the seam. I need at least one more inch in the waist and preferably one and a quarter or even a half. Is any of this possible.? I hate to lose a great suit for lack of an inch.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

LeonS said:


> Hello,
> 
> Got my suit back from dry cleaners and the collar looks like this. I know that it was not the case before and that is the first time I dry cleaned this suit. Of course the dry cleaners claimed that the suit was defective :icon_smile_big: I would really appreciate if any of the tailors could explain me what is really going on.
> 
> ...


if the cleaner allowed the collar to roll up at the crease, that could be the cause.
his presser should force the collar back to the old crease. 
BUT!
some times the collar is too short on the outer edge. thats the part that moved up.
a new longer or different shaped collar is in order.
there is one trick [and i call it a trick] that sometimes works.
the collars edge that is raised up must be stretched as much as possable. 
after that the collar is pressed normally. 
if nether works resign yourself.

if this is an expensive garment send it back to the manufacture for a new collar.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

windsor said:


> I have a pair of pants from a custom suit that need more room in the waist. I had the dry cleaners alterations lady let them out "all the way" but her sewing still left half an inch material on either side of the rear seat seam. There on side seams right behind the front pockets and there is almost one inch of fabric beyond the seam. I need at least one more inch in the waist and preferably one and a quarter or even a half. Is any of this possible.? I hate to lose a great suit for lack of an inch.


from your description there is more than enough cloth to give you what you need. BUT!
the waist band probably does not have anything extra.
i would recommend letting out the sides all the way. then allowing the lady add cloth to the waist band. that is if she, or you can find a cloth of a good match. 
the waist may become a bit too large but that can be taken back in at the center.
then you will have something for the future expansion.


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## windsor (Dec 12, 2006)

Thank you very much for that explanation Alex. I have three suits that will need this alteration.


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## David Reeves (Dec 19, 2008)

a tailor said:


> from your description there is more than enough cloth to give you what you need. BUT!
> the waist band probably does not have anything extra.
> i would recommend letting out the sides all the way. then allowing the lady add cloth to the waist band. that is if she, or you can find a cloth of a good match.
> the waist may become a bit too large but that can be taken back in at the center.
> then you will have something for the future expansion.


Sounds a bit like something you would see on one of Fagin's kids. Try losing the weight. It's summer soon most men lose at that time of year.

Lowering the waistband could help you perhaps, or mayyouse a left field idea you could replace the entire waistband and make it a feature in some way. Would be good on a dinner suit especially if done in black satin.....hmmmm....a bit like a mini cumberbund.


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## Martin Stall (Sep 11, 2006)

LeonS said:


> Thank you for your reply. That is what I thought and told to my drycleaners but they kept blaming the suit, I insisted that they press it again, but it did not do any good, it is still showing. I am puzzled, it never happened before with the suits they drycleaned for me but on the other hand the suit was fine until they drycleaned it. Can it really be due to poor tailoring?


Neither shell cloth nor collar felt are supposed to shrink. This is why it's called dry cleaning, although in fact the word dry, here means simply that the liquid used is not water, but perchlorehtylene.

Pressing could fix the problem, but only if the collar was made (cut) properly AND if they know their stuff. But it's possible that the wool is just too short, in which case a tailor would have to open the seam and trim back the undercollar. A bit costly, but not ridiculously so.


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## knezz (Nov 28, 2009)

Matt S said:


> That's a cheap way to cheat alterations. I would never recommend this. On a double breasted jacket it wouldn't be as noticeable, though that would be a lot of buttons to move.


The search feature works great:icon_smile_wink:

I have a DB jacket and wish to raise the section where the jacket crosses to make the V at the chest (what is that called?). Also, I would like to bring the jacket in about an 2 inches and get some waist suppression. Holding the jacket over 2 inches appears to give me the look I'm seeking. There will be a total of 6 buttons to move. Is this taboo or has it been done regularly with success?


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## InlandIsland (Dec 18, 2009)

*criticism/feeback/suggestions welcome...*

Hello,

I recently purchased a couple of suits (charcoal and taupe in the event that my lighting was bad or monitors are different) and I would appreciate any feedback on the fit or suggestions about what I could do to improve them.

So far the pants were hemmed and taken in at the waist and inseam. The Jackets both had the sleeves lengthened and the back center saem taken in a bit.


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## NukeMeSlowly (Jul 28, 2005)

*shortening a raincoat belt*

I have a BB double breasted cotton trenchcoat with a belt that is too long. This belt has a number of pre-set sewn buckle holes, 3 or 4 metal rings sewn in at intervals (ostensibly to hang items off of I would suppose), and two buttons with a strap that joins them sewn onto the belt side facing the jacket (designed to keep the belt from moving around too much or falling completely out of the belt loops).

I understand the basics of shortening a belt - cut the stitches holding the fabric to the buckle, remove the pre-determined amount of fabric, and sew the end back around the buckle - but does a specialized belt like mine require any additional steps, preventative measures, etc?

Thanks.


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

How tall are you? What size are the suits?


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## InlandIsland (Dec 18, 2009)

Alexander Kabbaz said:


> How tall are you? What size are the suits?


I am 6' 1". The suits are 38R (drop 6).


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

InlandIsland said:


> I am 6' 1". The suits are 38 (drop 6).


Charcoal Suit Photos 3, 4, & 5 indicate that the front of the trousers need to be dropped a good 3/4" or else you're leaning way backwards. 
The button stance on the taupe suit is too high. Seems to be the same on the charcoal but the photo is too dark to be certain. You can't correct this but may want to consider Long for future suits.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

InlandIsland said:


> Hello,
> 
> I recently purchased a couple of suits (charcoal and taupe in the event that my lighting was bad or monitors are different) and I would appreciate any feedback on the fit or suggestions about what I could do to improve them.
> 
> So far the pants were hemmed and taken in at the waist and inseam. The Jackets both had the sleeves lengthened and the back center saem taken in a bit.


the taupe suit seems ok.

the char trousers are far too tight in the seat , the thigh, and over the calf.
did you have it taken in all over?
it looks as thought you pulled up the front of the pant? do you wear the belt lower in the front?
the jacket could be shortened at the top. thats below the collar.
the rest is hard to tell. 
it may be just the way you have it on.


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## InlandIsland (Dec 18, 2009)

a tailor said:


> the taupe suit seems ok.
> 
> the char trousers are far too tight in the seat , the thigh, and over the calf.
> did you have it taken in all over?
> ...


Thanks for the input - on the charcoal the waist and inseam were taken in, but that's it. I think that the pulling in the pictures was partly how I was wearing them (too high in the front), but the waist is quite tight and it's hard to adjust. Do you think having the waist let out slightly would improve the pants somewhat?

Alex - Going long would not be bad idea, but I find far less selection in a 38L... I will keep it in mind though.


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## David Reeves (Dec 19, 2008)

There's all kinds of things not up to snuff if you compare them to a high end Bespoke garment but without being to critical considering as others have mentioned get the balance on the trousers fixed.

The Charcoal suit really needs the a square back alteration.

if you can be bothered take a look at your sleeve pitch as well.


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

InlandIsland said:


> Thanks for the input - on the charcoal the waist and inseam were taken in, but that's it. I think that the pulling in the pictures was partly how I was wearing them (too high in the front), but the waist is quite tight and it's hard to adjust. Do you think having the waist let out slightly would improve the pants somewhat?


 Yes ... if it allowed the front to drop down a bit.



David Reeves said:


> There's all kinds of things not up to snuff if you compare them to a high end Bespoke garment but without being to critical considering as others have mentioned get the balance on the trousers fixed.
> 
> The Charcoal suit really needs the a square back alteration.
> 
> if you can be bothered take a look at your sleeve pitch as well.


David - Is it really cost-effective to do this on RTW?


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## philidor (Nov 19, 2009)

I wear Ralph Lauren chinos that are 34/34. They feel somewhat tight but still fit (I plan on getting the extra couple inches trimmed off the legs). However, I received an outstanding deal on them and just couldn't pass up RL polo pants for only $50.00

My Nantucket Reds are a 35, but feel loose around the waist. While 34's are somewhat tight.


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## LeonS (Apr 23, 2008)

a tailor said:


> if the cleaner allowed the collar to roll up at the crease, that could be the cause.
> his presser should force the collar back to the old crease.
> BUT!
> some times the collar is too short on the outer edge. thats the part that moved up.
> ...


This is a $1,700 BB GF suit, rather expensive to me. I took it back to BB and the tailor there said that it was caused by drycleaners as soon as he saw the problem. He told me that they could fix it by trimming the undercollar. After checking my other suits and seeing that there is more than enough collar to cover the untercollar on each I am starting to think that the collar was very short to begin with. Is BB trying to pull a fast one on me? Is there a downside to trimming the undercollar?


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## David Reeves (Dec 19, 2008)

Alexander Kabbaz said:


> Yes ... if it allowed the front to drop down a bit.
> 
> David - Is it really cost-effective to do this on RTW?


Really depends on how much the RTW costs I suppose. Or how particular you are. I know what you mean though. Having said that I have a client that seems to buy Kiton on deep discount in sizes that just don't fit. He spends about $300 with me having them fitted just so. In this case although $300 is a lot of money, for him it's worth it.

In regards to the OP I think getting the trouser balance and the neck squared would really improve the grey suit. Should cost about $150.


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## David Reeves (Dec 19, 2008)

LeonS said:


> This is a $1,700 BB GF suit, rather expensive to me. I took it back to BB and the tailor there said that it was caused by drycleaners as soon as he saw the problem. He told me that they could fix it by trimming the undercollar. After checking my other suits and seeing that there is more than enough collar to cover the untercollar on each I am starting to think that the collar was very short to begin with. Is BB trying to pull a fast one on me? Is there a downside to trimming the undercollar?


No. It's a simple solution but that doesn't mean it's not a good one.


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

David Reeves said:


> Really depends on how much the RTW costs I suppose. Or how particular you are. I know what you mean though. Having said that I have a client that seems to buy Kiton on deep discount in sizes that just don't fit. He spends about $300 with me having them fitted just so. In this case although $300 is a lot of money, for him it's worth it.
> 
> In regards to the OP I think getting the trouser balance and the neck squared would really improve the grey suit. Should cost about $150.


Them's pretty darn reasonable rates! Do you ever come out to the Hamptons?


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## David Reeves (Dec 19, 2008)

Alexander Kabbaz said:


> Them's pretty darn reasonable rates! Do you ever come out to the Hamptons?


Never been. Maybe I should.


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## TRH (Sep 6, 2009)

I have a couple of lovely pairs of khakis that are reasonably new, but the problem is that after having purchased them I have lost somewhere in the vicinity of 25lbs, most of that coming off my waist and legs. 

Can the trousers be altered to fit? I think they'd need to be taken in at the waist and the legs need tapering - maybe a tailor could do this?

I read somewhere that khaki-style trousers are significantly harder to alter than dress trou, so I'm pondering whether or not I should just give these up and procure new legwear.

e. Ended up going to my tailor, he will fix them up pretty nicely and taper the leg... guess I was just a little too preoccupied with asking him to perform such a meager task.


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## pell (Mar 7, 2010)

Hi, thank you for your reply.

What is the "back fork", and making that rise deeper, what will that adjust?

Thanks again.


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

I just scanned this entire thread and couldn't find that you asked anything. But you're welcome, tho I'm not a tailor. I am available tho regarding questions of bail in the Ask A Jailor thread.


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

pell said:


> Hi, thank you for your reply.
> 
> What is the "back fork", and making that rise deeper, what will that adjust?
> 
> Thanks again.


Making the rise deeper will allow more room in the crotch and/or raise where the waistband rests on your torso.

Please provide context for "back fork". Without context, I would say it is probably the salad fork ... but only in some very old-fashioned resorts such as the Mt. Washington Hotel or Mt. Hood's Timberline where, for special banquets, the sometimes arrange the silverware parallel to the table edge and behind the dinner plate.


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## pell (Mar 7, 2010)

Peak and Pine said:


> I just scanned this entire thread and couldn't find that you asked anything. But you're welcome, tho I'm not a tailor. I am available tho regarding questions of bail in the Ask A Jailor thread.


Thank you for saying you're welcome. I forgot to add, it was with respect to post #42, intended for 'a tailor', Alex.


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## pell (Mar 7, 2010)

Alexander Kabbaz said:


> Making the rise deeper will allow more room in the crotch and/or raise where the waistband rests on your torso.
> 
> Please provide context for "back fork". Without context, I would say it is probably the salad fork ... but only in some very old-fashioned resorts such as the Mt. Washington Hotel or Mt. Hood's Timberline where, for special banquets, the sometimes arrange the silverware parallel to the table edge and behind the dinner plate.


Hey, I meant with respect to my post with the photos, #42.


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## pell (Mar 7, 2010)

a tailor said:


> it looks like the waist is too high in the back only.
> this can be taken care of by opening the waist band and lowering it at the center back.
> the rise at the back fork may need to be deepened also.
> in doing this there is a tendency to do it to an extreme. then it becomes a disaster.
> ...


Hi, thanks for responding. Can you clarify a bit? What I'm getting is that you think the waistband should be lowered in the back, but also the rise in the back should be lowered?


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## pell (Mar 7, 2010)

Can anyone tell me how to delete my profile?


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## J.Marko (Apr 14, 2009)

If you have a jacket whose quarters are closed, perhaps because of a prominent chest, how do you get the quarters to open? Is it possible to do that by taking in the side seams, maybe more from the front side than the back side if the back is fine? Will this adjustment also help stop the lapels from spreading? Does something like this require the more expensive alteration at the dart? Thanks.


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## Martin Stall (Sep 11, 2006)

No, no, no, and no. Check my reply to your other thread for a pic and explanation.


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## J.Marko (Apr 14, 2009)

Thanks - is there any way to open the quarters?


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## Martin Stall (Sep 11, 2006)

Yes, they can be cut away. It might look better but it won't solve the problem.


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## TheDlABlO (Feb 5, 2010)

I have a question concerning faux surgeon's cuffs. On many OTR suits, I see fake surgeons cuffs with the stiching/outlines of buttonholes but no actual cuts in the cloth (i.e., no working holes). If I get a suit like this and shorten the sleeve, how easy is it to remove the fake buttonhole stitching, take material off, and put the buttons shifted back w/ updated fake stitching? Does the fake stitching you take out leave holes/marks?


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## Strategery (Jan 12, 2010)

I have some questions.

When altering a jacket, be it a suit jacket or sport coat, when is it best to take in/let out from the center seam vs the side seams? 

When there's a guy with a full waist & seat but the thigh is baggy, is there a way to take the thigh in without pulling in the seat or crotch? How many seams are there to take the thigh in?

Thanks!


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## Martin Stall (Sep 11, 2006)

Strategery said:


> I have some questions.
> 
> When altering a jacket, be it a suit jacket or sport coat, when is it best to take in/let out from the center seam vs the side seams?


Never center back, ever.



Strategery said:


> When there's a guy with a full waist & seat but the thigh is baggy, is there a way to take the thigh in without pulling in the seat or crotch? How many seams are there to take the thigh in?


Yes there is a way, by taking in the inseam. The seat will probably also need some attention, depends.


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## Strategery (Jan 12, 2010)

Here's the thing though. When I see double-vent jackets taken in from the side seams, it always seems to make them flare out. Is this the result of poor tailoring rather than taking in from the wrong seam?

Sometimes you see guys who appear to have a lot of room higher on their jacket. It looks like there's material gathering, loose material. Taking in at the center seam, at least pinning it, looks to be the only way to reduce this effect because the center seam runs all the way up to the collar (whereas the side seams just run up to the armhole).

Thank you.


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## Martin Stall (Sep 11, 2006)

If it flares out at the vents it can be bad tailoring, or it can be that the coat just really can't handle the alteration in terms of cut and recut. Some alterations just shouldn't be done.

I think what you mean with your second point, is a back that is too wide. Typically, this should be taken out at the side of the upper back. Sure, in some cases the space needs to be taken out of the upper back in the centre seam, but that depends on each individual case. 

My initial reaction was based on the understanding that you were asking about taking in the waist. That is something that should be done at the sides.


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## Strategery (Jan 12, 2010)

I see thank you for the info.

Regarding taking the thigh in when the waist & seat need to be left alone, does the thigh in need to be tapered? In other words, would the "in" pattern be in an upside down V? Whenever I have tried messing around with the thigh in, it ALWAYS pulled the seat in with in shortening the rise or crotch and it had to be let back out. I guess I was under the impression that there's no way to reduce the thigh bagginess without pulling the seat in a little bit. In a skinny guy with a flat backside, he obviously can afford to have the seat taken in some. But in a bigger guy with a fuller seat, he can't.


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## Martin Stall (Sep 11, 2006)

You mean you do such things yourself, right? 

When you reduce the thigh, you don't actually shorten the rise, you reduce the seat diameter. If I understand your question correctly, then no. It should be tapered, but like an upright V. It will always pull the seat in. It could be that you need to take out more in the front leg rather than the back. That could also mean opening and recutting the fly, but nothing can really be said without pics.

If you're a hands-on guy, you might like to ask over at cutterandtailor.com.


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## Strategery (Jan 12, 2010)

I've never done any tailoring but I have marked clothing for alterations. I hate to admit this, but so far I have had some big challenges with the language barrier between the tailors and I.

I wish I had some pictures to help illustrate. I will try to find some, but I don't know how much luck I'll have.

I'm curious how the front leg being taken in differs from the thigh that we're talking about. Does the front leg in mean on the outseam?


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## Martin Stall (Sep 11, 2006)

Well if you take in the front leg you still reduce the thigh, but the cloth gets taken away in the front panel instead of the seat. Not the outseam, the inseam.


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## Strategery (Jan 12, 2010)

Do most tailors know how to take the thigh in from the front panel so it doesn't pull the seat in? How would someone mark a paint for such instructions? Or is it an uncommon alteration?


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## Martin Stall (Sep 11, 2006)

If a tailor knows about cutting, he should be able to do it. If he's not seen the fitting and has to go by what a fitter who may or may not be a tailor/cutter has marked, it can become a disaster. There is no hard and fast rule to how to do it. It depends on many factors, including rise of the trousers vs rise on the person, pleated or non-pleated and so on. Again, I recommend that other forum I mentioned. It's full of professionals. If you throw your question at them, preferably with some pics, thou shalt be educated.


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## Strategery (Jan 12, 2010)

K, thanks for the advice. Greatly appreciated.


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## jean-paul sartorial (Jul 28, 2010)

My $20 test shirt from moderntailor arrived today. Overall it looks good. The sleeves could be 1/2" longer and it's a little tight in the neck. That's probably my fault. I always wear a 16 collar so I didn't really measure it, I just put in 16" in the field. Perhaps most 16" collars are actually a bit wider than that?

Anyway, the problem is that I have a diagonal wrinkle from the pit of the shirt to the maybe the side of the collar.

Notes:

1) I got this shirt slim-fitted. A little too slim-fitted in retrospect. The fabric doesn't appear to be bulging or pulling anywhere but I'd like a looser fit. Don't know if that might be part of the problem or not.

2) A lot of my other shirts also do this. It's not _horrible_ but in this case it sticks out more because the shirt is less baggy and those are the only wrinkles on it.

3) Most of my shirts (being OTR) tend to be slightly too wide in the shoulders. I have kind of slope-y shoulders so I don't know exactly where they end but the seam on this shirt seems pretty close. I also specified that I have sloped shoulders and a rounded back. Which I do. But did I overcompensate or maybe still not compensate enough?

My guess is that either there is excess material in the shoulder, or the perhaps the armhole is too large? I don't think the chest is too big as there's not much room there at all.

I don't need the shirt altered, I just want to know what measurements I might need to change for the next order. Is there a tailor on the boards who can help me?

Thanks,

JPS


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## Leighton (Nov 16, 2009)

Pictures speak a 1,000 words. Don't mean to be snarky, but I'm having trouble visualizing this.


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## jean-paul sartorial (Jul 28, 2010)

Not snarky at all. Perfectly legit. I mean, I'm the guy asking for help. 



It doesn't really do it on the left side or at least not much, and anyway that arm is up. But see on the right how it seems to gather under the pit and there are those diagonal wrinkles?

Ugh. Sleeves definitely too short. And I need to lose 5-10 lbs.


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## Leighton (Nov 16, 2009)

Might solve the problem to reduce the yoke measurement. Also looks like your shirt pocket is off to the side.


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## deanayer (Mar 30, 2008)

I have a tailor question regarding a shirt - here goes:

I am deeply in love with a shirt that is on sale on Ebay and its a 16 neck which is fine but the sleeves are like 36.5 and I need more like a 33.5. The shirt has sleeve plackets with a gauntlet button and normal barrel cuffs. I would obviously need to have the sleeves shortened at the cuff end.

The questions are:

1. If I buy it and have it altered will they move the sleeve plackets up as well as the cuffs and just cut new placket openings farther up the sleeve so they don't become comically shortened by 3 inches.

2. Is a shirt with this long a sleeve going to result in loads of extra pleating at the cuff as they try to gather the sleeve material that is wider now that the cuff is 3 inches farther up the sleeve. Will this result in "pirate sleeves" at the cuff?

3. The shirt is (I believe) long in body commensurate with the sleeve length. I believe it is 35 inches long. I am 5' 11" but sitting I look like I am about 5' 8" meaning I am all leg and short body. Will I likely need to shorten the shirt as well? I usually wear a 42R to give some idea of my size. A quick check of some of my shirts that fit well shows 33 inches in length (measured from the top of the collar). The collar height on this desired shirt is fairly standard in appearance.

4. If a 16 neck shirt is made with 36-37 sleeves instead of 33-34 are the sleeves generally wider since they have more length to narrow and is the body fuller than the same shirt made with shorter sleeves ? Assume the same shirt and maker but the maker knows he is making a shirt for someone who is likely fairly tall when he makes a 36.5 length sleeve.

5. If I need two 3 inches off the sleeves and 2 off the body length will this result in a "frankenshirt" that is too distorted and chopped up looking to wear?

Thanks ! Hope that made sense...


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## jean-paul sartorial (Jul 28, 2010)

Leighton said:


> Might solve the problem to reduce the yoke measurement. Also looks like your shirt pocket is off to the side.


lol. That's not a shirt pocket. It's the intersection of two folds, as I was wearing the shirt straight out of the box. :redface: Also, as a test shirt it is single ply 70's so not the greatest material around.

The yoke is pretty small. Are you saying the yoke should be made smaller, or do you think the problem is the yoke is large relative to the rest of the shirt (in which case I would opt to leave the yoke the same and add some room in the chest and waist).


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## Leighton (Nov 16, 2009)

jean-paul sartorial said:


> lol. That's not a shirt pocket. It's the intersection of two folds, as I was wearing the shirt straight out of the box. :redface: Also, as a test shirt it is single ply 70's so not the greatest material around.
> 
> The yoke is pretty small. Are you saying the yoke should be made smaller, or do you think the problem is the yoke is large relative to the rest of the shirt (in which case I would opt to leave the yoke the same and add some room in the chest and waist).


Huh... Fuzzy picture. lol.

Anyway. The yoke being the distance between your shoulders. You see how your shoulder seams are almost falling off your deltoids (the actual muscle), they should be at the end of your collar bone. Again, fuzzy picture, I can't tell for sure, but if you shorten that distance, it might fix your problem.

Of course, I still recommend getting a knowledgeable tailor's opinion.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

jean-paul sartorial said:


> My $20 test shirt from moderntailor arrived today. Overall it looks good. The sleeves could be 1/2" longer and it's a little tight in the neck. That's probably my fault. I always wear a 16 collar so I didn't really measure it, I just put in 16" in the field. Perhaps most 16" collars are actually a bit wider than that?
> 
> Anyway, the problem is that I have a diagonal wrinkle from the pit of the shirt to the maybe the side of the collar.
> 
> ...


you have sloped shoulders with the right shoulder still lower. if you pick up the shoulder the diagonal saging will disappear. 
they sloped the shoulders equally.
you will need to tell them how much to slope each shoulder.


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## zblaesi (Dec 30, 2009)

Since I'm overweight, I usually need to have blazer sleeves shorted quite a bit. But as a result, the sleeves tend to look really wide and quite odd, especially when worn over a t-shirt. Is it possible to have them narrowed without looking silly, and how much do you think it would cost in addition? I believe it's something like $15 per sleeve to have the sleeves shortened. Any special instructions I should give the tailor?


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

zblaesi said:


> Since I'm overweight, I usually need to have blazer sleeves shorted quite a bit. But as a result, the sleeves tend to look really wide and quite odd, especially when worn over a t-shirt. Is it possible to have them narrowed without looking silly, and how much do you think it would cost in addition? I believe it's something like $15 per sleeve to have the sleeves shortened. Any special instructions I should give the tailor?


yes the sleeve gets wider as you go up higher. asmall amount of shortening makes little difference. a large shortening makes a larger opening.
after the tailor marks the amount to be shortened, have him measure the bottom and mark that width at the new length. 
tell him thats how wide you want the bottom. 
the back of the sleeve has a curve at the elbow. with the shorter length this will be closer to the bottom.
tell him you want that moved up.


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## jean-paul sartorial (Jul 28, 2010)

Thank you, a tailor and Leighton. 

The major problem was indeed with the slope of the shoulder. I raised my right shoulder a bit, wrinkles went away. However, I noticed that the shirt was too a bit loose comparatively on the left shoulder and also on the right shoulder after I raised it. Not causing big wrinkles but more of a bit of a billow.

So you were both right.


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## xopowo (Dec 30, 2008)

*Mens suit pattern -- hard to find! Advice?*

Greetings, I've had real trouble finding a usable pattern for a suit coat. I am looking for the major pattern pieces for a two button single breasted to practice my tailoring and pattern adjustment skills, using the Cabrera and Hostek books as well as some others, ultimately I would work with a professional to refine my initial attempts (this approach worked well with shirtmaking, a lot of time spent getting up to speed and refining skills and then an enlightening relationship with a professional).

I am having trouble finding anything useful, there is a Burda pattern that comes close. Can anyone offer any advice? I'd rather not start with a draft but that is also an option.

Many thanks!


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

tbreslow said:


> Greetings, I've had real trouble finding a usable pattern for a suit coat. I am looking for the major pattern pieces for a two button single breasted to practice my tailoring and pattern adjustment skills, using the Cabrera and Hostek books as well as some others, ultimately I would work with a professional to refine my initial attempts (this approach worked well with shirtmaking, a lot of time spent getting up to speed and refining skills and then an enlightening relationship with a professional).
> 
> I am having trouble finding anything useful, there is a Burda pattern that comes close. Can anyone offer any advice? I'd rather not start with a draft but that is also an option.
> 
> Many thanks!


go to 'the tailor and cutter" website you will find plenty of pattern drafts to choose from.


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## xopowo (Dec 30, 2008)

Embarrassed, but I had never heard of cutterandtailor.com. I just look a look. Thank you so much, this is perfect and has made my day/week/month!


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## zblaesi (Dec 30, 2009)

a tailor said:


> yes the sleeve gets wider as you go up higher. asmall amount of shortening makes little difference. a large shortening makes a larger opening.
> after the tailor marks the amount to be shortened, have him measure the bottom and mark that width at the new length.
> tell him thats how wide you want the bottom.
> the back of the sleeve has a curve at the elbow. with the shorter length this will be closer to the bottom.
> tell him you want that moved up.


Do you think you could elaborate this a little bit? The tailors in my area suck, so if I don't provide a lot of detail on what I want, they tend to **** things up--at least so far, anyway.

How exactly would the curve at the elbow be moved up?

Also, what do you think this will cost?

Thanks.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

zblaesi said:


> Do you think you could elaborate this a little bit? The tailors in my area suck, so if I don't provide a lot of detail on what I want, they tend to **** things up--at least so far, anyway.
> 
> How exactly would the curve at the elbow be moved up?
> 
> ...


makeing the sleeve bottom smaller should be easy to explain.when he is finished marking, take his chalk and tape or rullerand mark it yourself. 
all you are doing is transfering the measurement from one place to another.

with the jacket on make a small mark at your elbow. then lay the sleeve flat. mark at the level of your elbow by the seam at least half of what is taken in at the bottom.

cost, total possably about 3 times the cost of just the shortening.


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## zblaesi (Dec 30, 2009)

I took it to a local tailor yesterday and she said it wouldn't be possible to move the elbow up. She said it had something to do with typical blazers being cut a certain way and not having enough fabric with which to work. It sounded like a bunch of BS to be honest. She said she could taper the width, and since I don't really know of any better tailor in the area, I just told her to do that. Hopefully I made the right decision.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

i dont think she understood. what i spoke of was tapering the sleeve. 
i think this will come out allright.


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## zblaesi (Dec 30, 2009)

a tailor said:


> i dont think she understood. what i spoke of was tapering the sleeve.
> i think this will come out allright.


Alright. We'll see! I have real bad luck with tailors.


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## LanceW (Jun 2, 2009)

What is the best way to remove some chalk marks accidentally left behind from my tailor?


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

LanceW said:


> What is the best way to remove some chalk marks accidentally left behind from my tailor?


if its a clay chalk, brushing will take it off. just a brush.
if its wax chalk, than heat will remove it. use a paper towel or kleenex and an iron.


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## Martin Stall (Sep 11, 2006)

And if it's chalk and the wrong fabric and it's been pressed in with steam, it's going to be real hard.


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## Hanzo (Sep 9, 2009)

I recieved a suit that I really like and fits me pretty well (alterations would be minimal) but the collar fold (not sure of the exact term) has crept up to the point of showing the "liner". Can this be fixed?


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## DocVenture (Sep 30, 2010)

There was a post on these fora recently that indicated that it can.


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## Martin Stall (Sep 11, 2006)

@Hanzo: Do you mean the felt undercollar is showing? That's a strange thing and could mean bad construction. You'd probably have to have a tailor reset the collar.


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## CJB (Feb 26, 2009)

How easily/cheaply can the lining be removed from a linen jacket? Are there any specific concerns I should have?


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

The removal is simple. It's the binding of the newly exposed seams that's the b*tch.


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## Bjorn (May 2, 2010)

Peak and Pine said:


> The removal is simple. It's the binding of the newly exposed seams that's the b*tch.


Pls explain!


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

Well since I've misplaced the BSA tailoring merit badge acquired many years ago by the camp fire I shouldn't really be in here trying to answer questions, but since you asked...

There are a minimum of five vertical seams on a jacket, seven if its darted. On a lined jacket these seams are left raw, i. e., circa 3/8" of fabric on each side of each seam cut straight with a 100% chance of fraying or unraveling unless covered by lining. Even with a lining, a hot wash will fray these seams, but the maker assumes you will dry clean everything. Without lining these seams have to be either pinked, which is to cut with zig-zag bladed scissors; bound, which is a special stitch going over and over the cut fabric's edge; or, ideally, piped, which is the application, sewn, of a narrow thin fabric to cover either the cut fabric on each side of the seam or the entire seam itself.

Any of these require extra work, the piping a lotta extra work which is why the supposedly lower-end jackets you find at American Eagle, Old Navy, etc. are to be admired; they're totally piped, often with working cuff buttons. 

May I go now? (Shark Tank's on tonight!)


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## Bjorn (May 2, 2010)

Peak and Pine said:


> Well since I've misplaced the BSA tailoring merit badge acquired many years ago by the camp fire I shouldn't really be in here trying to answer questions, but since you asked...
> 
> There are a minimum of five vertical seams on a jacket, seven if its darted. On a lined jacket these seams are left raw, i. e., circa 3/8" of fabric on each side of each seam cut straight with a 100% chance of fraying or unraveling unless covered by lining. Even with a lining, a hot wash will fray these seams, but the maker assumes you will dry clean everything. Without lining these seams have to be either pinked, which is to cut with zig-zag bladed scissors; bound, which is a special stitch going over and over the cut fabric's edge; or, ideally, piped, which is the application, sewn, of a narrow thin fabric to cover either the cut fabric on each side of the seam or the entire seam itself.
> 
> ...


Thanks! Shark tanks?


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## ZachGranstrom (Mar 11, 2010)

Bjorn said:


> Thanks! Shark tanks?


The Shark Tank is the American version of The
Dragons Den.


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

> Shark tanks?


Wha? This is the only thread you read? It's ABC's highly entertaining entrepreneurial reality show.


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## Bjorn (May 2, 2010)

Will check into piping then for my jacket. Thanks


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## Bjorn (May 2, 2010)

What fabric does one use for piping? Do I buy premade strips of some kind?


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## pearlmdt (Jun 25, 2011)

Bjorn said:


> What fabric does one use for piping? Do I buy premade strips of some kind?


Piping should be cut from contrasting fabric. It is cut on the true bias (45 degrees from the grain (or selvage)). Prepackaged piping with the cording already in it is sold in most fabric stores. I have never come across precut strips, however there are machines you can get to make the process easier.


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

While what you just said is not incorrect, neither is it necessary. Piping does not have to be contrasting fabric nor does it have to be cut on the bias. You can make piping from 1 1/2" strips of cloth, each side folded inward to meet the center, then folded in half giving a 3/8" wide finished-edge pipe with which to fold over a seam. Old shirting works fine for this. When piping a seam on the interior of a jacket you don't want corded piping, this is used mainly on exterior seams and at corner joins, such as with a garment bag or, shutter, a toaster cozy.


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

Let me add something to what I just wrote. I see from another thread that you're both female and a seamstress and that you just joined today and this is your second post. Welcome. We need females. We need seamstresses. We even seamSTERS. Hardly anybody here does anything with their clothes themselves except wear them, so your presence here is mightily welcome. What's the Villas?


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## Bjorn (May 2, 2010)

Thanks to you both. Will check back in if I have further difficulties.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

BJORN

you may find the "the cutter and tailor" website of interest to you.
there is a wealth of information there.


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## Bjorn (May 2, 2010)

a tailor said:


> BJORN
> 
> you may find the "the cutter and tailor" website of interest to you.
> there is a wealth of information there.


Thank you


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## Richard Minks (Mar 1, 2010)

I don't know if this has been answered but I need help so here goes. 

I bought an OTR suit and had the bubble in the back near the top of thecollar removed. (not from my tailor because he has moved to say the least I amvery disappointed) 

When I received the suit back, the bubble was gone, however on the right shoulderof the suit looked bumpy, like if you had a cheap suit dry cleaned many timesand the glue started to come undone from the shoulder pad. The suit is a HickeyFreeman 100% wool, if that matters and has a floating canvas. The tailor saidhe didn't see it, then claimed it was the shirt I was wearing. Then said thatthere was not enough fabric left....BS. To many excuses, I paid and left. Iwould like to know what can be done. Recommendations, if any, of good tailorsin the Tri-State area. I really want it corrected so cost is not an objectunless that cost is the price of the suit. 

Thanks.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

hi rich 
first, there is no floating canvas. the proper term is just "canvas". it absolutely does not "float".
your tailor just lowered the collar. that only brings the collar down pulling the bubble up and under the collar. but the bubble extends across the back horizontally below the shoulder seams. what he should have done is to shorten the back at the top. but that is a more extensive alteration, in which the shoulders most be opened up, thats a great deal more working time. i think he didnt want to hit you with the much higher cost.


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## Richard Minks (Mar 1, 2010)

Thanks for the reply and the education. 

So he lied to me? Because it seemed that he did opened up the shoulder. It was my first experience with him and cost is not really a problem for me. It might have been on my face. 

Solution...So can I take it to another tailor and get it fixed?


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