# So is shell cordovan considered dressy or casual?



## dparm (Nov 18, 2008)

The Allen Edmonds shell cordovan trunk show is coming up in a month or so (assuming they stick to the same schedule from last year), and I'm strongly considering taking the plunge on a pair.

However, I'm not sure if shell is inherently casual or more dressy. It's obviously available on dressier styles like the Park Avenue, but can also be had on something slightly more casual like the Strand. I know that shell cordovan's roots really go back to being used in footwear because it was ultra-durable and low-maintenance, which seems to signify casual...but the permanent glossy finish says dressy.

Opinions or thoughts on this?

In particular, I am considering a pair of shell cordovan black Park Aves, though that cigar-brown shell cordovan Strand is quite lovely too.


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## drlivingston (Jun 21, 2012)

Sure, shell is dressy. If you like shell. Don't jump on the shell bandwagon unless you really want shell. It dulls easily but lasts forever (if properly cared for). Considering the fact that you live in Chicago, shell is actually a very practical decision. Shell handles inclement weather better than any other dress shoe material. It is essentially waterproof. I have brown shell Strands for when I choose to actually look presentable when I go somewhere and they actually garner numerous compliments. However, I don't prefer shell over calf. To me, it is uncomfortable and holds in far too much heat in the southern climate. That is just my opinion. The trunk show will give you a perfect opportunity to see if they are a good fit for you. Right now, AE has many of their shell models (seconds) at $399 for the RDA sale.


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## Concordia (Sep 30, 2004)

dparm said:


> However, I'm not sure if shell is inherently casual or more dressy.
> 
> Opinions or thoughts on this?


Relative to what?


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## Youthful Repp-robate (Sep 26, 2011)

Dressier than suede, less formal than calf. How you wear it has more to do with how it's made up. I'd stick to bluchers or loafers, _Maybe_ a bal wingtip (the Alden for BB model with the exposed eyelets is a lovely shoe), and a monkstrap would be stylish but I have heard shell can tear and I always have to really yank on the straps of my monkstraps to get them on.


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## dparm (Nov 18, 2008)

drlivingston said:


> The trunk show will give you a perfect opportunity to see if they are a good fit for you. Right now, AE has many of their shell models (seconds) at $399 for the RDA sale.


Yeah, they have a pair of PA seconds in my size for $399.

How would you characterize the fit and feel of shell versus calf? Is it stiffer and tighter?


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## dparm (Nov 18, 2008)

Concordia said:


> Relative to what?


The identical shoe in calf.


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## Watchman (Jun 11, 2013)

As some of the lads have noted, shell cordovan has many different functions as a shoe. I personally think that it works exceptionally well in the dressiest of expressions, as well as the casual.

The European makers hold shell cordovan in very high regard for balmoral stylings. The Americans tend to use the leather for more casual bluchers and slip ons etc.

So, it is indeed all relative in that way.

Here are some of the various shell cordovan designs from all over the world:

Alden Cigar LWB:










Churches #8 Bluchers:










Enzo Bonafe Whiskey Balmoral Boots:










Carmina Saddle ShortWings:

Allen Edmonds Strands in Natural on Dainite:










Alden 9015:










Alden Black Balmoral:


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## meanoldmanning (Jan 10, 2015)

dparm said:


> How would you characterize the fit and feel of shell versus calf? Is it stiffer and tighter?


I wear shell two or three time a week so I'll throw in my 2 cents. Less stretch perhaps, as in it won't stretch to fit if you buy a little on the tight side, but no less flexible in my experience. Or not much less flexible to the point that it is noticeable and off putting. Definitely not as stretchy and flexy as something like CXL, but then neither is calf.


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## Watchman (Jun 11, 2013)

And yes, black PA's are good for dressy and brown Strands are good for dress and casual IMHO.


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## meanoldmanning (Jan 10, 2015)

^ Watchman, I love those Strands!


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## Dieu et les Dames (Jul 18, 2012)

You can accomplish everything with calf that you can from shell. If you already have your bases covered, then do what makes you happy. I know I get the warm and fuzzies from my shells.


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## SlideGuitarist (Apr 23, 2013)

Watchman, I hope you don't wear the same size as I...because I will hunt you down.

Seriously, those are beautiful. AE is usually the most I can afford, though they never start out very lustrous. Their shell Strands are very nice to look at, esp. the dark brown, for which I should probably start saving.


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## Watchman (Jun 11, 2013)

meanoldmanning said:


> ^ Watchman, I love those Strands!





SlideGuitarist said:


> Watchman, I hope you don't wear the same size as I...because I will hunt you down.
> 
> Seriously, those are beautiful. AE is usually the most I can afford, though they never start out very lustrous. Their shell Strands are very nice to look at, esp. the dark brown, for which I should probably start saving.


Thank You Gentlemen.

AE actually does a great job working with the cordovan hides.

The Strands pictured have actually taken on what is perhaps the most fascinating shade I have seen to date. And that statement is made against the backdrop of all my meanderings in the world of shell cordovan.

Eventually I will get around to taking a pic of their recent development in color.

The reddish and burnt orange tones are interesting. They are essentially the same shade as AE calfskin walnut, but the cordovan has a depth that can only be described as incredible.

Thanks.


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## dparm (Nov 18, 2008)

Those brown Strands look interesting -- the photos on AE's website make them look like more of a chocolate-brown, though I understand there is a bit of variation in shell. After seeing yours, I don't know if I'd get them since they look almost the same as my bourbon Strands.


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## Watchman (Jun 11, 2013)

dparm said:


> Those brown Strands look interesting -- the photos on AE's website make them look like more of a chocolate-brown, though I understand there is a bit of variation in shell. After seeing yours, I don't know if I'd get them since they look almost the same as my bourbon Strands.


Yes Sir, I apologize. These are indeed; "Natural" shell cordovan instead of the classic AE dark brown.

I should have clarified that better.

Here are the dark brown Strands:


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## dparm (Nov 18, 2008)

Thanks for the correct photo. I'm actually not as crazy about them now -- I really prefer them in the bourbon I just bought.


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## Anon 18th Cent. (Oct 27, 2008)

It's the shoe, not the leather, which determines casualness.


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## Mike Petrik (Jul 5, 2005)

Edwin Ek said:


> It's the shoe, not the leather, which determines casualness.


This.


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## Watchman (Jun 11, 2013)

dparm said:


> Thanks for the correct photo. I'm actually not as crazy about them now -- I really prefer them in the bourbon I just bought.


Well, there are actually better pics of these out there if you google it. The pics I have are of a pair long sold to due sizing issues.

The Dark Brown Cordovan Strand is a classic shoe.


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

Personally, the big ripples that shell gets over time make it seem more casual to me. I prefer shell on bluchers and loafers, and would rather my dressy bals be calf. Just my opinion, though.


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