# most common jacket alterations



## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

Taking in the sides of an off the rack jacket:

The most common alteration on a jacket seems to be the sleeve length, but we have beat that one to death.

The second is altering the sides. the easiest way is to take in the center back seam, but that only works well is when the customer has a narrow back and a flat seat, and that does not happen very often. So, let's take a look at some of the different possibilities...

PLAN A

The side seams is the usual place to take in the body of the coat, but note the side seam is located more toward the back rather than the true side of the coat, but that is the most convenient seam to work with.










If the amount to be taken in is small, the sewing stops just short of the armhole (see the arrows at the armhole). If the amount taken in is a great deal, then this part of the armhole must be opened to allow the side seam to be finished cleanly. if the amount to be taken in is large, the reduction concentrates mostly toward the back. That's because that seam is closer to the back. If the looseness is near to the back, that's fine. But, what if the looseness is more to the front? 
This calls for the one and only PLAN B. [this must be where the term came from].

So, let's go there.

PLAN B

Here's the plan. Since the looseness is more to the front, the cloth is taken in at the front of the side seam. Yes, a seam can be taken in or let out on one side only instead of both sides at the same time. Taking in this way pulls in more at the front and less at the back. See the first dotted line. We also may need to do the something at the armhole, just like plan A.










If a great deal must be taken in at the front, then a problem may arise, see the second dotted line. the amount of pull at that seam may be so great that it creates lines of strain [pull]. See the dotted 
line of arrows? This can often be seen on the coat itself. So, what to do?

Believe me, there is also a PLAN C.

PLAN C

Here's the plan, let's use the underarm seam. It's closer to both the front and closer to the side. That's a great idea, eh? ... as long as we do the armhole thing again. Oh, oh, what's that horizontal line cutting through the seam? It's the pocket, now what to do? The solution is simple, but doing it is a big job and headache. The pocket must be taken apart first, and then remade after the seam is taken in. This adds a great deal to the cost, but with better effect.










What to do when the back and sides fit perfectly, but the front looks like a maternity dress? It's true there is also a PLAN D.

PLAN D

Here's what we do. The dotted lines show how the front dart is taken in. If there is no dart, one can be made. Taking in the dart works well on a canvased coat, but on a fused job it may look a bit awkward, that's because of the extra bulk of the fusing. In this case, the pocket must be removed and re-made as before. The dart takes in above the pocket. Below the pocket is done at the underarm seam. See the offset of the seam. And no, that will not create lines of draw like Plan B.

Plan D is often used for a person with a large chest and flat stomach.










Each of these plans can be used single, or in pairs, or all of them together depending on necessity. A weight lifter, for example, with a small waist might need a C and D. If he had a flat seat, he may need the center back seam taken in as well.

Remember the more hours of work, the higher the cost, but then there's no substitute for doing the correct alteration.


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## Thom Browne's Schooldays (Jul 29, 2007)

Thanks a lot.

I didn't really realize that the sides of a jacket could be altered that much, opens up a new world of possibilities to me (6'3" 36" chest).


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

What about letting out a jacket? I have an old jacket (as in 1954) that's just a little snug... is it even worth it?

EDIT: It's half-lined and seems to only have a little bit to be let out. Maybe around an inch at the places you show in the first picture... though now that I see the other spots it sort of opens up some more possibilities.


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## Cruiser (Jul 21, 2006)

Jovan said:


> What about letting out a jacket? I have an old jacket (as in 1954) that's just a little snug... is it even worth it?


I've had jackets let out about an inch or so several times. My tailor almost always uses the side seams and like the OP said, he doesn't always make the same amount of adjustment on each side of the seam. Sometimes he goes more in or out on the front part of the seam and other times more in or out on the back side of the seam. It all depends on how the jacket is hanging on me.

My only reservation in letting out an older jacket that's been worn a lot and drycleaned numerous times would be the matching of the fabric that has been exposed to the elements over time vs. the part that has not. I guess it could depend on the type fabric and the color, but I supsect that in some cases the part you let out might not exactly match the rest of the jacket.

Cruiser


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## stfu (Apr 30, 2008)

a tailor said:


> Taking in the sides of an off the rack jacket:
> ....


Very interesting (and timely for me).

Just Monday of this week I went to be fitted, and I am having an OTR 41L taken in ever so slightly in the sides (in addition to the ubiquitous sleeve shortening you mentioned and adding the working button holes). My concern was whether it will pull the pockets out of position. Since it is a minor amount, I think not.

Based on what the tailor marked, I can only assume he is going with Plan A and taking each side in a very small amount (quarter to half inch perhaps). He drew a couple vertical lines along the seems by sight. This guy also asked for a 10 pound mallet to correct some shoulder fit problem, presumably a problem with my shoulders and not the jacket)

[editorial about my experience on this suit: I had to wrangle with the sales guy, the manager, and the tailor to get them to shorten the sleeves. And If I had not mentioned that I thought there was too much room in the jacket, nobody would have said a thing. To begin with, they insisted I go with the 41 and not my original 40, and I am not sure that was even wise.]


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## kkollwitz (Oct 31, 2005)

Fascinating....thanks.


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## Mad Hatter (Jul 13, 2008)

*Thank You..*

I'm not fully understanding it all yet, but such posts really help.


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## Penang Lawyer (May 27, 2008)

The problems you noted are the reasons I started MTM and then custom. I was orginally a 42 long. But the back left was my problem area.


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## Spence (Feb 28, 2006)

What about the issue of double vents and side seams? I recently had several coats taken in after a good weight loss, and my tailor commented the double vents were a pain. First they had to be carefully reconstructed or they wouldn't lay properly. Second, you can throw the balance off if the jacket has a narrow back to begin with.

Or at least that's how I interpreted his comments, I could be wrong 

Great thread!

-spence


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## Bonhamesque (Sep 5, 2005)

Thanks for that 'a tailor'.
I use plan A all the time and often resort to plans C and D but I've never tried B.
What's the maximum amount that can be reduced before it starts to look strange?
Aren't you changing the angle of the foreparts by doing that?


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

Jovan said:


> What about letting out a jacket? I have an old jacket (as in 1954) that's just a little snug... is it even worth it?
> 
> EDIT: It's half-lined and seems to only have a little bit to be let out. Maybe around an inch at the places you show in the first picture... though now that I see the other spots it sort of opens up some more possibilities.


depending on how much more you need it just may work. but your tailor can make the judgment.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

Cruiser said:


> I've had jackets let out about an inch or so several times. My tailor almost always uses the side seams and like the OP said, he doesn't always make the same amount of adjustment on each side of the seam. Sometimes he goes more in or out on the front part of the seam and other times more in or out on the back side of the seam. It all depends on how the jacket is hanging on me.
> 
> My only reservation in letting out an older jacket that's been worn a lot and drycleaned numerous times would be the matching of the fabric that has been exposed to the elements over time vs. the part that has not. I guess it could depend on the type fabric and the color, but I supsect that in some cases the part you let out might not exactly match the rest of the jacket.
> 
> Cruiser


sounds like your tailor is doing it right. on the old jacket you can only find out by trying it.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

stfu said:


> Very interesting (and timely for me).
> 
> Just Monday of this week I went to be fitted, and I am having an OTR 41L taken in ever so slightly in the sides (in addition to the ubiquitous sleeve shortening you mentioned and adding the working button holes). My concern was whether it will pull the pockets out of position. Since it is a minor amount, I think not.
> 
> ...


that small amount will not even have the least effect on the pocket.
the less alterations made the the less it costs the store nuff said?


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

Spence said:


> What about the issue of double vents and side seams? I recently had several coats taken in after a good weight loss, and my tailor commented the double vents were a pain. First they had to be carefully reconstructed or they wouldn't lay properly. Second, you can throw the balance off if the jacket has a narrow back to begin with.
> 
> Or at least that's how I interpreted his comments, I could be wrong
> 
> ...


your tailor is right the side vents double the amount of work [time] needed.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

Bonhamesque said:


> Thanks for that 'a tailor'.
> I use plan A all the time and often resort to plans C and D but I've never tried B.
> What's the maximum amount that can be reduced before it starts to look strange?
> Aren't you changing the angle of the foreparts by doing that?


usually about one inch on "b". more begins to pull the front on a small size on a large theres more leway. that what i was trying to describe.but the tailor must make the judgment.


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## fullgrain (Jan 5, 2007)

Thanks a tailor, that was excellent. Anything that helps one have a better vocabulary for speaking w/ their tailor is much appreciated.

Any chance you could do a similar visual on the lowering the collar/squaring the shoulder/other solutions for the fabric bunching at the neck some of us get?:icon_smile:


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## Sator (Jan 13, 2006)

Thank you Alex. That is a superb explanation of things :icon_cheers: :icon_cheers: :icon_cheers:

Andy, perhaps this could be made a Homepage Tutorial!


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## mrp (Mar 1, 2011)

If I understand this correctly when performing C or D (or C and D, or more) one has the option to adjust the pocket placement as required/desired (move forward or split the difference would be the likely candidates).

Great thread btw.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

yes mrp.
usually the difference is split. on a small size about 1/3 to the front 2/3 back. large size fifty fifty.


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## mrp (Mar 1, 2011)

a tailor said:


> yes mrp.
> usually the difference is split. on a small size about 1/3 to the front 2/3 back. large size fifty fifty.


Thank you Alex, I try this out on a project in the future.


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