# RogerP's Shoe Shebang



## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

Greetings all,

As an homage to Shaver's erudite and informative thread on essential shoe selections ( https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?176674-Shaver-s-Shoe-Shebang ), and upon invitation of the man himself, I offer my own thoughts on the subject, with representative selections sourced largely from my personal rotation.

I consider myself to be a dedicated shoe aficionado. Less kind adjectives might arguably apply (no, I didn't name my daughter 'Emelda' - thanks for asking). I don't claim expertise, but rather an abiding interest in and enthusiasim for the craft, together with ownership experience of a fairly broad cross-section of brands covering essentially the full price spectrum of quality ready-to-wear offerings.

While Shaver has presented a compelling case for a maximum number of 8 pairs to cover the essentials, I have quite arbitrarily elevated that number by 2 to 10. My reasons for doing so are:

1) It's my shebang and I'll cry if I want to.

2) I have included a number of boots within my list of essentials, so technically, I will be presenting fewer _shoes_. Ahem.

3) While a constrained assembly of 8 essentials is a laudable goal, my present collection already significantly exceeds that total and it would be less than candid to pretend that either minimalism, or constraint define my shoe selections. It would also be pretty funny. As Polonius wisely advised Laertes: "This above all: to thine own self be true..." Or as I prefer - in the words of the immortal Popeye: "I yam what I yam." And what I yam is a shoe nut - no apologies made.

So, with all that tedium behind us, let's move onto the shoes. I shall submit 10 selections in three broad categories and attempt to complete the list over the course of the day as time permits. If my rotation were to be forcibly reduced in number, this is what it would look like.

*A. Dress Shoes*

Self-explanatory, I should think. These are the things that go on my feet when wearing a suit. For me, that's most days in a given week, and hence the most populous single category.

*1. Vass "Old Engligh II" Captoes. Black.*

The black dress shoe is THE foundational selection for my work environment. Indeed, for certain levels of court where counsel are required to wear robes (not bathrobes - the black woolen variety) black shoes are a designated uniform requirement. This pair by Hungarian maker Vass fills that slot as well as any and better than most:

*2. Anthony Cleverley "Cameron" Adelaide. Burgundy.*

The burgundy / bordeaux / oxblood colour group is my absolute favourite for business wear. It was difficult to include just one such selection in the dress shoe category - but the purpose of this exercise forces me to come to grips with a thankfully notional element of constraint. The cranberry laces are a dandified touch, but easily altered for those with more conservative tastes.

*3. Vass Austerity Brogue - Medium Brown

*For me, this is THE perfect shade of brown for a dress shoe. I find it more versatile in tone and shade than the dark brown more often recommended. The oxymoronic austerity brogue combines shortwing flare without the extra flash of brogueing and adds some variety in style to the dress shoe rotation. I'm afraid I can offer no rational explanation for the fact that I do not yet own this particualr shoe.

*4. Vass "Old English II" Captoe - Museum Gold*

The golden-brown shades (here with a slightly reddish tint) are my second favourite colour grouping for dress shoes, and my overall fave across the style board. Not everyone warms to the deliberately mottled look of Ilcea's museum calf, but I absolutely love the rich visual texture it brings to a smooth calf shoe.

To be continued.... comments welcome at any time.


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## WouldaShoulda (Aug 5, 2009)

I think you surpassed Shebang and advanced straight to Hootenanny!!


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## justonemore (Jul 2, 2009)

I had to send my Camerons back due to sizing issues. I'm still a bit ticked off that they didn't work out. Such a beautiful shoe. Oh well. Here's to the one that got away.


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## Zinc2005 (Jan 6, 2014)

These shoes look incredible. I don't understand how they can look so pristine! 

I also really enjoy the shoe trees with he orb handle. Looking forward to seeing the rest of this collection!

Thanks Roger.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

Cheers gents - and sorry the sizing didn't work out for you, justonemore.

*B. The Transitional Selections*

I'm not much of a jeans-and-t-shirt guy, and don't have an essential need for purely casual footwear. I do own such shoes, but they don't make the list of 10 essentials for me.

The transitional selections, then, are shoes that are of a casual style or design, but are executed in a manner that allows them to be dressed up at least to the level of wearability with sport coat and open collar shirt.

*5. Allen Edmonds Townley - Brown Shell Cordovan*

The derby is a versatile choice for smart casual wear, and selecting this model in shell cordovan adds some variety in materials to the short list.

*6. St. Crispin's Model 524 "Dress Bootee"

*In my view, the Chukka is the ultimate casual shoe, and St. Crispin's makes the ultimate Chukka. Here we see again that lovely golden-brown shade that is more widely represented in my rotation than it is on this short list.

The sleek lines and exquisite finishing on this pair give it greater flexibility for dressing up - say with a tweed sport coat and woollen tie - than some of its chunkier relatives. (Note to self, purchase tweed sports coat for next fall).

The ability of St. Crispin's to make small adjustments to any standard last (at some 6 or 8 points on the last) allows for a near bespoke level of fitting of the shoes to each of your feet. By that I mean that separate adjustments can be made to the lasts for left and right feet.

In my view, this brand represents the pinnacle of RTW footwear.


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## Zinc2005 (Jan 6, 2014)

WOW! Those Chukkas are a work of art...


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## kravi (Feb 26, 2013)

Dear Roger,

I'm trying to come to terms with how much I can admire, respect and hate you all at the same time! Oh, never mind, I figured it out. Your taste is marvelous and your ability to indulge it greatly surpasses mine...

Good on you, I can't wait to see the rest of your selection!

--Me

P.S. I too love the golden-brown mottled look. It really makes the leather stand out and glow with a nice warmth.


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## Anthony Charton (May 7, 2012)

Your two pairs of Vass captoes are probably my favourite footwear ever exhibited on this forum. You are a man of taste- so much so that I will refrain from emulating Shaver in an outcry against blutchers...


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## 127.72 MHz (Feb 16, 2007)

Great looking tires!

The real test will be posting images of shoes you've had for ten to twenty years.


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## justonemore (Jul 2, 2009)

127.72 MHz said:


> Great looking tires!
> 
> The real test will be posting images of shoes you've had for ten to twenty years.


Any examples? Perhaps you could start a thread showing such? My oldest are around 8 & I'm in no hurry to get them to 20 (although with any luck both the shoes and myself will get there). lol


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

Thanks guys. On to the final segment:

*C. Das Boot*

The mathematicians among you will have noticed that 4 selections remain. All have been assigned to the boot category - which may surprise you. To be perfectly honest, it surprised me - and was the cause of much internal debate as to whether one boot should have been dropped in favour of a casual shoe. But at around 5:30 this morning, while shovelling a two foot high compacted snow drift deposited by the overnight plow at the front of my driveway, the scales were tipped.

In Canada, we have this thing called winter. Not the fake winter that brings cooler temperatures and increased rainfall. We get the real deal - snow, freezing cold, ice storms etc. Slippery sidewalks are more rule than exception - particularly in a winter such as that which still chills my world.

This season, I have found myself wearing boots almost on an average of 4 days out of 5. This may have seasonally skewed my short list somewhat, but by my own self-imposed parameters, all 4 are essential keepers.

*7. Edward Green Galway*

My shoe selections are quite multi-national in nature - England, America, Spain, Hungary, Romania.

When it comes to quality boots, however, I am possesed (rightly or wrongly) of the unshakeable perception that England rules. From Edward Green alone, such models as the Alderley, Nevis and Shannon stand at the high water park for premium RTW boots. But my overall favourite - and indeed one of my favourite articles of footwear at any price point - is the Galway. The definitive elegant country boot:

*8. Carmina Model 80092 Balmoral Boot.*

Suede is consistently underrated as a sound choice for foul-weather wear. The advent of products such as nanoprotector render the material all but waterproof. This boot has been a consistent go-to choice for me all winter long. The subtle nap of the suede provides a lovely complimentary texture to the flannels and tweeds worn in the colder months.

A boot that can be worn to and from the office in all manner of blustery conditions - and worn elegantly and comfortably AT the office throughout the working day, is essential to me.

*9. Anthony Cleverley "Rourke" Chelsea Boot.*

I regard the Chelsea as the wholecut of bootwear. Like the wholecut shoe, the vamp and toe are generally bereft of caps, wings and the like. As with a wholecut, lines are everything - they make or break the design. Anthony Cleverley hit one way over the fences with this Chelsea, IMO. Outstanding lines. And a black dress boot for me is essential for the same reasons that a black dress shoe will always reside on my personal must-have list.

*10. Allen Edmonds 'Bayfield' in Chromexcel

*Hikinng camping, hunting, and yes, shovelling two foot compacted snow drifts all make a hard use field boot an essential element in my rotation.

These AE boots have seen three years of all-season hard use and simply shrug it off and ask for more:

And that's a wrap! Thanks for taking the time to scroll through.

Roger


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## justonemore (Jul 2, 2009)

Love the Rourke. They are most certainly on my hit list ( my own shoe shebang will feature monks that are quite similiar).


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## 127.72 MHz (Feb 16, 2007)

justonemore said:


> Any examples? Perhaps you could start a thread showing such? My oldest are around 8 & I'm in no hurry to get them to 20 (although with any luck both the shoes and myself will get there). lol


This is turning into an interesting thread. I have "Been meaning to" for so long. (or at least since American Airlines in-flight magazine "American way" did a write-up on Allen Edmonds shoes.) Myself and another member here at AAAC were featured. The image of me in this write up, (page 2) shows a newly re-crafted pair of MacNeils that I purchased in 1989.

https://hub.aa.com/en/aw/paul-grangaard-allen-edmonds


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## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

I am speechless (but not written-word less). Roger, that is an amazing, impressive, inspiring selection. Your discursive logic, excellent prose and general enthusiasm is making me want more shoes and boots. 

A few of those approach works of art - the Chukka, Galway and Balmoral come to mind (similar to Ralph Lauren's crazy beautiful car collection, where the cars rise above the mere mechanical and touch the aesthetic). 

While not art, the AE Townly and the Bayfield say, "I'm a shoe, a damn fine looking one and I do my job well and without complaint." And, finally, those Vass' are beautiful versions of shoes we all own less-beautiful versions of (my Peal and Co.s and Cole Haans - from when they were still a good brand 10-plus years ago - are humbled to see what they could be if they had more style and confidence). 

My only surprise was that not a pair from Alden made the list as they still put out a classic, well-made, shoe or boot that, to my eye, has that something extra in quality, style and detail that make them RogerP worthy.

Thank you for your beautiful and enjoyable post. 

FF


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## justonemore (Jul 2, 2009)

Fading Fast said:


> I am speechless (but not written-word less). Roger, that is an amazing, impressive, inspiring selection. Your discursive logic, excellent prose and general enthusiasm is making me want more shoes and boots.
> 
> A few of those approach works of art - the Chukka, Galway and Balmoral come to mind (similar to Ralph Lauren's crazy beautiful car collection, where the cars rise above the mere mechanical and touch the aesthetic).
> 
> ...


From my understanding, RogerP doesn't have any Alden's in his collection versus A.E. From what I've seen here on AAAC, it seems that most hobbyists start with either A.E. or Alden (I myself have 9 Alden's and 0 A.E.).


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## justonemore (Jul 2, 2009)

127.72 MHz said:


> This is turning into an interesting thread. I have "Been meaning to" for so long. (or at least since American Airlines in-flight magazine "American way" did a write-up on Allen Edmonds shoes.) Myself and another member here at AAAC were featured. The image of me in this write up, (page 2) shows a newly re-crafted pair of MacNeils that I purchased in 1989.
> 
> https://hub.aa.com/en/aw/paul-grangaard-allen-edmonds


Thanks for the interesting & informative article.


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## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

justonemore said:


> From my understanding, RogerP doesn't have any Alden's in his collection versus A.E. From what I've seen here on AAAC, it seems that most hobbyists start with either A.E. or Alden (I myself have 9 Alden's and 0 A.E.).


Interesting - I think you are on to something. I'm 4 Aldens and 0 AEs.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

Thanks gents.

My oldest shoes are a pair of AE Neumoras - 8, 9, 10 years old or so. They've been resoled twice and are now in need of recrafting. I haven't got around to it simply because I don't have a great need for another black shoe at the moment. But I haven't had the heart to get rid of them as they have served me long and well. It was only about maybe 6 years ago that I started to discover a world of footwear beyond AE - hence the more premium purchases are all more recent.

FF / justonemore - I have two pairs of Aldens - a coulour 8 shell captoe derby and a "Kudu" chukka. I am extremely happy with both, and either could have supplanted the two AEs on the short list. It's just that while burgundy is my colour of choice for business wear, my casual wardrobe is more receptive to brown - hence the selection of the Townley. The Kudu chukka essentially fills the shoe role of the AE Bayfields - they just love to be beat on hard and show scarcely any wear. But as the snow here gets more than ankle deep quite frequently, the Bayfields won out.


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## immanuelrx (Dec 7, 2013)

Thank you Sir for showing some of your collection. I plan on emulating your collection as well as shaver's to build my 8-10 pairs of shoes. I am very novice and learn so much from threads like this.


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## justonemore (Jul 2, 2009)

RogerP said:


> Thanks gents.
> 
> My oldest shoes are a pair of AE Neumoras - 8, 9, 10 years old or so. They've been resoled twice and are now in need of recrafting. I haven't got around to it simply because I don't have a great need for another black shoe at the moment. But I haven't had the heart to get rid of them as they have served me long and well. It was only about maybe 6 years ago that I started to discover a world of footwear beyond AE - hence the more premium purchases are all more recent.
> 
> FF / justonemore - I have two pairs of Aldens - a coulour 8 shell captoe derby and a "Kudu" chukka. I am extremely happy with both, and either could have supplanted the two AEs on the short list. It's just that while burgundy is my colour of choice for business wear, my casual wardrobe is more receptive to brown - hence the selection of the Townley. The Kudu chukka essentially fills the shoe role of the AE Bayfields - they just love to be beat on hard and show scarcely any wear. But as the snow here gets more than ankle deep quite frequently, the Bayfields won out.


Ha. Proven wrong again. My apologies for speaking out of turn. My I ask if your started with A.E. versus Alden? Or were they acquired in an equal manner?


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

justonemore said:


> Ha. Proven wrong again. My apologies for speaking out of turn. My I ask if your started with A.E. versus Alden? Or were they acquired in an equal manner?


No apologies needed my good man. I started with AE loooong before I ever discovered Alden as the latter is not sold locally while AE has been part of the shoe landscape here since at least the mid-eighties, if not earlier.


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## HANSENDK (Jan 20, 2014)

Thank you so much for a very inspiring post. I was especially surprised to see how good a pair of boots can look.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

HANSENDK said:


> Thank you so much for a very inspiring post. I was especially surprised to see how good a pair of boots can look.


Thank you Hans - which boot did you like best?


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## LordSmoke (Dec 25, 2012)

Wow, RogerP! :icon_hailthee:Thank you so much. I feel like I need to have a smoke and rest after looking at those pics. :redface:

And I am in Vienna now, I must fight the urge to jump on the train tomorrow evening after class and to head to Budapest.


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## Stubbly (Jul 26, 2013)

Thanks Roger!

This is a magnificent exhibit of fine footwear.


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## SpitShine (Sep 3, 2013)

Roger, how on Earth do you get your shoes so crease free and immaculate!?


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## AnthonyFuller (Apr 11, 2013)

Roger - as always I am impressed by your collection. Really like the cranberry laces. You've also single handedly turned me on to Vass, Carmina and now Anthony Cleverly. I'm also a fan of burgundy colored shoes. Thank you for sharing with us!

Sent from my Lumia 1520 using Tapatalk


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## dgh (Jan 9, 2014)

The most stunning collection of shoes I have ever seen. Thanks for sharing.


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## Blunderact (Feb 1, 2014)

I notice a kind of toe protection on the sole. Do you mind sharing the brand and type of the toe protection? I am hard on the toes too.

Blunderact


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## justonemore (Jul 2, 2009)

*As mentioned in the post the shoes are St. Crispin's Model 524 "Dress Bootee". What you see is usually refered to as a "toe tap". There are a few makers that put these on (I have a pair from J.M. Weston with this feature) but usually it's something that is an "Aftermarket add on". Most cobblers should be able to put them on for you.

*


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## Shaver (May 2, 2012)

Roger, hats off, you are one of the finest contributors of original content that we are lucky enough to count among our membership. :icon_hailthee:


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

Thanks again gents. 

LordSmoke - take that train!

Shaver - thank you sir! This was a fun exercise - thanks for prompting me to give it a try, and hats off to you for the original concept.

Blunderact - yes, as justonemore mentioned, these are metal toe taps - a number of manufacturers offer them as an option and they are fit flush with the sole:





SpitShine - keep in mind that pretty much all of the static pics are from when the shoes were brand new. But they are in essentially the condition shown in any pics where they are worn. My shoe care regimen is nothing unique - keep them clean, moisturize occasionally, keep them polished - and use trees.


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## Odradek (Sep 1, 2011)

Some lovely shoes. I really like those Townleys, but the chukka boots do stand head and shoulders about the rest. Superb.


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## Blunderact (Feb 1, 2014)

Thank you Roger.


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## Shaver (May 2, 2012)

Hi Roger, having taken time to fully digest your posts I shall add the following comments:

The Austerity Brogue you offer here has aroused my interest - I can see a genuine place for a similar shoe in my rotation. Tempting&#8230;&#8230;.

The Old English is a lovely leather effect, extremely pleasing.

The 'in the snow' shot meets with my wholehearted approval - these shoes are made for walking. 

I would be very interested to know more of your belt collection, I am presuming your fanaticism for footwear is reflected in your belt collection?

Also, could you tell us a little about your own preferences for shoe maintenance - products and techniques?


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## 127.72 MHz (Feb 16, 2007)

Odradek said:


> Some lovely shoes. I really like those Townleys, but the chukka boots do stand head and shoulders about the rest. Superb.


Agreed, but please tell me you plan on wearing them right?

Regards,


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

127.72 MHz said:


> Agreed, but please tell me you plan on wearing them right?
> 
> Regards,


Wearing them right now - and heading to the St. crispin's trunk show at lunch. ;-)

I don't go out of my way to abuse my shoes, but I wear them all and don't keep any preserved on a pedestal.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

Shaver,

I wish I could claim that my belts matched my shoes in quality - but they lag behind. Apart from a few AE belts, there aren't any that really stand out as quality pieces. I will add some Equus sooner rather than later.

Shoe care for me is not that complex - keep them clean (a quick wipedown with a damp cloth after wearing); keep them conditioned (periodic applications of Saphir Renovateur and Cordovan cream), keep them polished (I tend to go over the whole shoe with a cream wax, then hit the toe box and heel with a higher gloss paste wax - Colonil and Saphir with some Burgol in the mix) and keep them treed (feet out, trees in).

I basically don't let them get to the point where there would be a dramatic before / after shot - with the exception of the AE Bayfield boots and Alden Kudu chukkas - both of which get worn very hard.


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## TsAr (Mar 21, 2013)

RogerP you are the Shoe Guru on this Forum... Thank you for sharing your immaculate collection.....


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## quiller (Dec 25, 2010)

All the shoes featured are beautiful.I could only afford a pair if I could buy them on an installment plan[2 kids in college].


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

Thanks again gents. On the related questions of how well the shoes hold up over time and what I do to take care of them, here are some pics from this afternoon of my well-worn pair of Oxblood Vass double monks, after some TLC.

Step 1 - treatment with Saphir Renovateur

Step 2 - polish with Colonil Mahogani cream polish over the entire upper

Step 3 - light touch of Saphir black paste wax on the toe box.

Step 4 - I am out of edge dressing, so the same black Saphir paste wax went on the edges of soles and heel as well.

Here are the results:


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## Howard (Dec 7, 2004)

very nice Roger.


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## SpitShine (Sep 3, 2013)

I'm astounded. My shoes all develop very clear creases after a few wears!


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## immanuelrx (Dec 7, 2013)

RogerP said:


> Thanks again gents. On the related questions of how well the shoes hold up over time and what I do to take care of them, here are some pics from this afternoon of my well-worn pair of Oxblood Vass double monks, after some TLC.
> 
> Step 1 - treatment with Saphir Renovateur
> 
> ...


I figured out why Roger's well worn shoes are almost the same as brand new shoes. He hovers slightly over the surface of the earth while making us think he is a mere mortal and walks.


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## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

immanuelrx said:


> I figured out why Roger's well worn shoes are almost the same as brand new shoes. He hovers slightly over the surface of the earth while making us think he is a mere mortal and walks.


:icon_hailthee:


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## mjpwooo (Dec 27, 2013)

I feel so inadequate. I have a very silly question.... what do you wear with shorts?


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## bernoulli (Mar 21, 2011)

RogerP, thanks for that....I will try to eventually post my collection of funny-looking shoes, but it will be like Bugs Bunny compared to Edouard Manet.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

Cheers, gents.

The monks are creased - it's pretty muck impossible to avoid that completely - but the creasing is very minor and not very pronounced. 

mjpwooo - not a silly question - but I basically don't wear shorts. I prefer lightweight cotton trousers in the summer months. When I am fortunate enough to be on a beach, I wear sandals.


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## mjpwooo (Dec 27, 2013)

RogerP, again another pretty ignorant question (or two)... Apologies to everyone as I am quite certain this has been covered a number of times. The search function is turning up almost too many results. Even Andy's "How to Shine Your Shoes" leaves me with some questions!

- at what point in this process is 'waterproofing' applied?
- toe box = what specific part of the shoe is that?
- A potential timeline could be the following, right?
1) clean with lightly damp cloth after every wearing
2) Reovateur (or some leather cream), 1x/week
3) Polish w/ Colonil, 1x/month, w/ the saphir paste wax, etc.



RogerP said:


> Thanks again gents. On the related questions of how well the shoes hold up over time and what I do to take care of them, here are some pics from this afternoon of my well-worn pair of Oxblood Vass double monks, after some TLC.
> 
> Step 1 - treatment with Saphir Renovateur
> 
> ...


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

mjpwooo said:


> RogerP, again another pretty ignorant question (or two)... Apologies to everyone as I am quite certain this has been covered a number of times. The search function is turning up almost too many results. Even Andy's "How to Shine Your Shoes" leaves me with some questions!
> 
> - at what point in this process is 'waterproofing' applied?
> - toe box = what specific part of the shoe is that?
> ...


Hi mipwoo.

I don't apply waterproofing agents to my quality smooth calfskin shoes. The products that can provide some waterproofing benefit tend to significantly darken the leather, and I'm not sure that they are very good for the leather over the long haul. I do use a spray product called Nanoprotector on my suede shoes. It works very well at repelling liquids and is the reason my suede dress boots have been a go-to choice over this very long winter.

The toe box is simply the part of the shoe that your toes live under . The double monks posted above are captoes, so the toe box is visibly defined by an extra layer of leather (the 'cap') stitched over the toe box.

I do not use Saphir Renovateur anywhere nearly as often as once per week. This is a product that is both a cleaner and conditioner - it will remove some of the "old" wax/polish on the shoe and prepare it for a fresh layer. I don't keep a chart, but I doubt I use Renovateur more than 3 or 4 times per year on any one pair of shoes.

Beyond that, I polish as needed. Whenever the shoes look a little flat, or have accumulated the inevitable small assembly of scuffs, they will receive a light application of cream wax and / or paste wax. Often times, a quick buff with a soft cloth is all that is needed to restore a decent shine - so I will try that first before reaching for more wax. A quality pair of leather shoes can be brought back from fairly shabby condition, but I prefer to never let them reach that point.

Any number of different shoe care brands produce prducts that work very well. My box contains mostly Saphir, then a mix of Colonil, Burgol, Kiwi and AE. The care and effort you put into maintaining your shoes is by far the greater difference-maker than brand choice.


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## Spex (Nov 25, 2012)

I hope this question isn't too far off from this thread, but speaking of Saphir products, I have a question. I have a couple of pairs of shoes where the leather colour is not quite consistent, one in particular that is a cognac/mid brown type of colour where it looks like some sort of "antiquing" was attempted. Would the right shade of Saphir creme polish possibly help to make the colour of the shoes more even? I've heard that these cremes have a higher concentration of pigments and the reviews seem to suggest that it would work for my purpose. Thanks!


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

Hi Spex,

Probably the surest way to get a more even colour distribution is to do a more aggressive stripping of the old wax. Saphir makes a product called Renomat for this purpose. I have never used it, so I can't make any recommendation.

If I were addressing this problem from my own box of products, I'd start with an application of Renovateur, then select a cream wax closest in colour to the darkest shade evident on the shoe. You can't lighten darker tones by adding polish, you can only darken lighter tones. Several light applications of the darker cream wax will serve you better than trying to use a lot of product all at once. This should go a long way toward giving you a more even finish.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

By the way - I'd invite anyone with shoe care comments or suggestions in response to the questions posted to jump right in.


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## mjpwooo (Dec 27, 2013)

Thanks RogerP. So, as a follow up...
- Polishing COULD be done more frequently then the Renovateur application. Am I understanding that correctly? Or is the Renovateur always done in tandem with the polishing? You wrote that you 'polish as needed', so I just want to be sure I understand.

I asked about the cap because it doesn't really look like the cap toe is a different shade in the pictures; it looks exactly the same color (to this semicolor blind male!), so I wanted to be sure I knew exactly to what you were referring.

(I know...basic questions, but you're damn right I'm asking someone who knows how to take care of their shoes basic questions!)



RogerP said:


> Hi mipwoo.
> 
> I don't apply waterproofing agents to my quality smooth calfskin shoes. The products that can provide some waterproofing benefit tend to significantly darken the leather, and I'm not sure that they are very good for the leather over the long haul. I do use a spray product called Nanoprotector on my suede shoes. It works very well at repelling liquids and is the reason my suede dress boots have been a go-to choice over this very long winter.
> 
> ...


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## Shaver (May 2, 2012)

RogerP said:


> By the way - I'd invite anyone with shoe care comments or suggestions in response to the questions posted to jump right in.


Roger, if I may, I have been persuaded to adhere to calfknip's credo that 'less is more' when it comes to shoes care. Here is but one post from the man himself to clarify this position: https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?112270-New-Shoe-Care&p=1217349#post1217349


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

^^^ Shaver - good info.

mipwoo - I don't apply Renovateur with every polish. When I refer to "polish as needed" I'm talking about cream and wax polish. Renovateur sees comparatively infrequent use. The more I think about it, 2-3 times a year seems more likely than 3-4.

On the Oxblood double monks the difference in shading between the toe cap and the rest of the shoe is very subtle and may not be all that evident in the photos. I can see a slight difference in the third pic, and a slight difference is all I was aiming for in this case. Paste wax does not contain as much pigment as cream wax, and the intent of the application here was just to deepen an already deep red, as opposed to turning the toe cap black.

Some of my shoes have a more heavily burnished toe with a lot more evident contrast - but that's not the look I wanted here, and in any event, it's harder to achieve on a shoe that is already a very dark colour to begin with.


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## mrp (Mar 1, 2011)

Roger,
Well done sir.


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## HANSENDK (Jan 20, 2014)

RogerP said:


> Thank you Hans - which boot did you like best?


*Anthony Cleverley "Rourke" Chelsea Boot.
*
That might well be my first boot!


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## Howard (Dec 7, 2004)

Rog, what kind of occasion do you go to with all those brand new dress shoes?


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

mrp said:


> Roger,
> Well done sir.


Cheers.



HANSENDK said:


> *Anthony Cleverley "Rourke" Chelsea Boot.
> *
> That might well be my first boot!


Definitely one of my faves.



Howard said:


> Rog, what kind of occasion do you go to with all those brand new dress shoes?


Mostly work.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

Update on a recent shebang expansion.  I fear my beloved AE Bayfields have just been rendered redundant.

Some time ago, over on the other forum, the idea was floated among a bunch of fellow shoe nuts to pursue the ultimate hard-working version of the EG Galway. The concept was inpired by a boot that EG had made some years ago for Holland and Holland, when the latter was seeking a premium boot to offer to its exceptionally well-heeled clientelle (pardon the pun).

To pull it off would require Zug (Heather Gorse) leather (not in plentiful supply, to say the least), getting a dozen forum members to agree on all aspects of the design (which I thought would be the mot difficult hurdle) not to mention getting EG to make the boots using Veldtshoen construction (not something they do very often, if at all, these days).

The good people at Skoaktiebolaget agreed to take the project on, and to my surprise, all the slots were filled in a matter of minutes. Glad I did not sleep in late that morning.  They also managed to convince the good people at EG to make our collective boot-wishes come true and produce a limited run of Veldt Zuglets on the sturdy and substantial 64 last. My pair was among the first of the series to be released.

I am tickled pink.

The leather is really unlike anything I have owned before. Thick, oily, waxy, yet VERY supple. Out of the box comfort is superb - I am braving a day of thunderstorms in the first full outing for these boots as I type. They are solid, substantial, and feel pretty much near indestructible. In other words, exactly what we wanted.

The pics below show the boots as more red-looking than they are in real life. There is a subtle red undertone to the warm chocolate brown, but for whatever reason this colour was amplified in the pics (and curiously, has done so in pics taken thus far by others).

Anyway, less talk, more pics:


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## Shaver (May 2, 2012)

I can picture your beaming smile!  Congratulations Roger.


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## TheoProf (Dec 17, 2012)

Roger, these are incredible! What a great purchase. I imagine they'll serve you well for years to come . It's too bad the picks don't accurately portray their true color. Your description makes them sound like they look even better in the wild, difficult as that is for me to believe as they look perfect in the pics. Wear them in good health and congrats.


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## Chouan (Nov 11, 2009)

They look beautiful. As the others have suggested, they are beautiful boots that'll last you a lifetime. Congratulations!


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

.Absolutely stunning. You can see the heavy oiliness of the leather as well as the suppleness in those pics. The shape and grain look beautiful. Yhey just look so damn comfortable. Enjoy them


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## Deoraby (Feb 6, 2012)

Roger, great boots ...very similar to Hoggs of Fife Rannoch Boots....currently made by Cheaney I think (Zug Leather, Veldtshoen construction).....helped me survive last winter in Toronto.


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## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

Gorgeous boots. Thank you for sharing that neat story. Enjoy and wear them in good health.


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## Howard (Dec 7, 2004)

RogerP said:


> Update on a recent shebang expansion.  I fear my beloved AE Bayfields have just been rendered redundant.
> 
> Some time ago, over on the other forum, the idea was floated among a bunch of fellow shoe nuts to pursue the ultimate hard-working version of the EG Galway. The concept was inpired by a boot that EG had made some years ago for Holland and Holland, when the latter was seeking a premium boot to offer to its exceptionally well-heeled clientelle (pardon the pun).
> 
> ...


Those are some really cool shoes Rog.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

Thanks very much for your comments, gents.


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## mhdena (Jan 4, 2008)

Very nice, especially as you say it was a project that came to fruition!


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

It seemed a better course to update the old shebang than start a new one. And I'll begin with a pair of boots that have been well worn in the interim, and have just received their first pro shine to bring them back to like-new condition.

Why a pro shine? Laziness, I suppose, is a factor. But what I have found from this particular shine wizard is that the durability of the result far exceeds my best efforts. 

G&G Burnhams in a variation of their chestnut shade, group order from Skoaktiebolaget. Only my second pair of Chelsea boots, but I'd already be hard pressed to pick a favourite between these and the black Anthony Cleverleys.


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## Howard (Dec 7, 2004)

RogerP said:


> It seemed a better course to update the old shebang than start a new one. And I'll begin with a pair of boots that have been well worn in the interim, and have just received their first pro shine to bring them back to like-new condition.
> 
> Why a pro shine? Laziness, I suppose, is a factor. But what I have found from this particular shine wizard is that the durability of the result far exceeds my best efforts.
> 
> G&G Burnhams in a variation of their chestnut shade, group order from Skoaktiebolaget. Only my second pair of Chelsea boots, but I'd already be hard pressed to pick a favourite between these and the black Anthony Cleverleys.


Those are really nice boots Rog.


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## IT_cyclist (Oct 17, 2015)

WANT!
I take it the that "all slots filled" note means there's no hope.


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## IT_cyclist (Oct 17, 2015)

And these, too. WANT!


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## Kingstonian (Dec 23, 2007)

Deoraby said:


> Roger, great boots ...very similar to Hoggs of Fife Rannoch Boots....currently made by Cheaney I think (Zug Leather, Veldtshoen construction).....helped me survive last winter in Toronto.


I have Hoggs Veldtshoen shoe version of the boot. The Zug leather is dark brown rather than a reddish brown. Not sure if Cheaney make them though.

I also have veldtschoen boots by Cheaney made for M&S. Those are a reddish brown and the leather may not be Zug, but at £150 in the sale it is of little consequence. They do not have speed hooks - which I do not care for. Probably Cheaney Pennine.
https://loomstate.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/veldtschoen-variations.html


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## ThomGault (Oct 6, 2016)

All of Roger's beautiful pictures have disappeared. I'm very sad, as I used this as a reference during the past few years for inspiration. Any chance of getting them re-added, @RogerP ? It seems that you have some of the pics hosted on instagram. Or, even better, maybe an update?


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