# Gloverall/duffle



## Califax (Jul 10, 2015)

Greetings, what's your opinion about proper length? Mine have always fit about half way up my knee. The one my wife purchased for me is really nice but it's quite a bit longer than I'm used to - resting at or just above my knee. I think it looks fine and I suppose I could get used to it. But it is a different fit for me. Any opinions on this? Thanks!!


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## gamma68 (Mar 24, 2013)

The trend these days in all kinds of contemporary coats is to be shorter in length (above the knee), which seems silly when the idea is to protect yourself from the elements. It seems to me the traditional, classic length of a duffle, trench, or most any type of overcoat is to fall at or below the knee.

Here's an old Gloverall ad for reference:


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## Duvel (Mar 16, 2014)

Mine falls slightly below the knee, much like the image above. I concur with gamma's assessment.


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## Califax (Jul 10, 2015)

That makes a lot of sense. Thanks guys


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## rmpmcdermott (Oct 27, 2015)

Mine also falls a bit below the knee and it's an older one. Keeps more of the cold out!


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## gamma68 (Mar 24, 2013)

Just please don't wear a Gloverall duffle like this pseudo-hipster:










Also, I just recalled that my Gloverall duffle is lined in blackwatch! And it was made in England! Quelle horreur!


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^It's guys such as you have pictured that give us more chronologically mature fellows a bad name! The boots are decidedly worse than the coat and the coat is pretty bad. LOL.


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## Duvel (Mar 16, 2014)

Obviously he (in the photo) is someone who doesn't care how he looks.


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## FLMike (Sep 17, 2008)

I suspect he actually worked very hard to "accomplish" that look. Crazy, right?


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## Shaver (May 2, 2012)

gamma68 said:


> Also, I just recalled that my Gloverall duffle is lined in blackwatch! And it was made in England! Quelle horreur!


Let it go.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

gamma68 said:


> The trend these days in all kinds of contemporary coats is to be shorter in length (above the knee), which seems silly when the idea is to protect yourself from the elements. It seems to me the traditional, classic length of a duffle, trench, or most any type of overcoat is to fall at or below the knee.
> 
> Here's an old Gloverall ad for reference:


Photos of original coats show all sorts of lengths, but usually quite long mainly because they were worn several sizes too large. They were true overcoats and were worn over several layers. It's worth noting as well that the originals came in 3 or 4 sizes only - there's some good info on Fed Lounge.


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## gamma68 (Mar 24, 2013)

Shaver said:


> Let it go.


LOL


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## oxford cloth button down (Jan 1, 2012)

My duffle stops above the knee. This actually is one of the reasons that I liked it. Being of smaller stature long overcoats make me look like a little boy lost in his father's coat.


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## Califax (Jul 10, 2015)

oxford cloth button down said:


> My duffle stops above the knee. This actually is one of the reasons that I liked it. Being of smaller stature long overcoats make me look like a little boy lost in his father's coat.


Do u have a photo OCBD? Just above the knee or mid-thigh?


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## karateisland (Sep 14, 2011)

My old Gloverall stops at the knee, and after I got used to it, I started to love it that way. Co-workers keep asking why I'm dressed for a blizzard, though!


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## oxford cloth button down (Jan 1, 2012)

Califax - I could not find a pic with it closed, but it is closer to mid-thigh. The above pic kind of helps you see this.


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## Duvel (Mar 16, 2014)

Maybe it's the angle of the shot, but that doesn't look short to me, OCBD, or small. Looks just right.


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## my19 (Nov 11, 2009)

Duvel said:


> Maybe it's the angle of the shot, but that doesn't look short to me, OCBD, or small. Looks just right.


Absolutely. I have an overcoat that covers to below the knee, but with a Gloverall I think knee-length or even an inch or so shorter works well and looks great.


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

gamma68 said:


> Just please don't wear a Gloverall duffle like this pseudo-hipster:
> 
> 
> 
> ...





eagle2250 said:


> ^^It's guys such as you have pictured that give us more chronologically mature fellows a bad name! The boots are decidedly worse than the coat and the coat is pretty bad. LOL.


What, specifically is wrong with this guy's coat, or how he's wearing it?


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## Tom Buchanan (Nov 7, 2005)

I like my duffle coat on the long side. As Doctor Damage notes, the originals were long.

Here are some pictures of the real WWII issue. https://www.ebay.ie/itm/WW2-ROYAL-N...ORIGINAL-BATTLE-OF-THE-ATLANTIC-/390813390792


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## Duvel (Mar 16, 2014)

1. It's little.
2. It's buttoned oddly. 
3. The color.

At least as I see it.



Orgetorix said:


> What, specifically is wrong with this guy's coat, or how he's wearing it?


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## Califax (Jul 10, 2015)

oxford cloth button down said:


> Califax - I could not find a pic with it closed, but it is closer to mid-thigh. The above pic kind of helps you see this.


Thanks!  Looks great! Mine's a bit larger so that it will fit over blazers/sport jackets (yours looks like it might not accommodate the extra bulk underneath, but I may be wrong), so mine's also a wee bit longer - about at the knee.


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## oxford cloth button down (Jan 1, 2012)

No problem, Califax. Here is a better pic (of the coat, but a terrible pic of me) I took as I headed across the street to get lunch. It also accommodates a sport coat. No issues. It is definitely on the shorter side.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Orgetorix said:


> What, specifically is wrong with this guy's coat, or how he's wearing it?


Let's see....a, shortie, Blackwatch Duffle with but the bottom closure secured, worn in combination with a blaze orange watch cap, bloused blue jean legs, and bright green boots with bright white Christie wedge soles.....my gawd, is he color blind? BTW, how long a list would you like? LOL.


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

Duvel said:


> 1. It's little.
> 2. It's buttoned oddly.
> 3. The color.
> 
> At least as I see it.





eagle2250 said:


> Let's see....a, shortie, Blackwatch Duffle with but the bottom closure secured,


It's a little short, but not much shorter than OCBD's jacket above. And well within the standard range for casual outerwear. Pea coats, barn coats, field coats, waxed jackets, etc. are all as short or shorter.

It's blackwatch...so? Blue and green are classic colors for duffles; blackwatch is a beloved pattern for odd jackets and trousers, ties, caps, etc. There really isn't anything strange about a blackwatch duffle coat.

The buttoning...again, who cares? It's not relevant to discussion of the coat itself. And, who knows? Maybe he has a good reason for buttoning it as he does.



eagle2250 said:


> worn in combination with a blaze orange watch cap, bloused blue jean legs, and bright green boots with bright white Christie wedge soles.....my gawd, is he color blind? BTW, how long a list would you like? LOL.


I thought we were discussing the coat.


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## Duvel (Mar 16, 2014)

OK. You're right. Who cares? Not I!


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## gamma68 (Mar 24, 2013)

Orgetorix said:


> What, specifically is wrong with this guy's coat, or how he's wearing it?


I was actually referring to the whole outfit, which gives off a strong Hipster vibe. For me, the duffle is too short and not buttoned properly. It's cool if he wants to wear it that way for himself. It's just not what I'd call Trad.

By the way, the person pictured is designer Jack Gerson. "HAY. gurl. hay"


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## Califax (Jul 10, 2015)

To my eyes his whole "getup" - not sure what else to call it - lacks dignity and taste; it seems to me that it's all about appearing "hip" and younger than he is, which should not be the goal of anyone's style, at least in imo. An eighteen-year old can get away with his "ensemble" (lol) to some extent, if he wishes to, I suppose. It just lacks gravitas. Just picture someone you intensely admire from history standing next to him: Churchill, WFB, JFK, etc. Upon seeing such a juxtaposition, my thought would be: this is what humanity - having struggled to emerge from poverty, hunger, war, chaos... etc. - has striven towards? Really? Sorry, I really don't mean to offend anyone but his "getup" is just awful. And please remember, he presumably posted the photo and approves of it, so it's fair game.


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## Duvel (Mar 16, 2014)

Meh. To each his own. Individualism is a strong American value. I don't like it, but then this guy isn't trying for a trad look, is he. Live and let live.


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

Although technically not a duffle (fly front instead of toggle closure), I've always liked the cut and length of the coat worn by Bob Balaban's character in the movie Moonrise Kingdom:










However, the color and context indicate a much more casual use, not unlike a Mackinaw jacket. My own traditional navy Gloverall is a good bit longer (knee length) and I prefer it that way, even though I'm not any taller than Bob.

In regard to duffle length in general, I think there is an acceptable range where it works best (mid thigh to just below the knee) depending on how casually you plan to wear it. Any longer or shorter and you're probably better served by a different piece of outerwear altogether.


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## WillBarrett (Feb 18, 2012)

hardline_42 said:


> Although technically not a duffle (fly front instead of toggle closure), I've always liked the cut and length of the coat worn by Bob Balaban's character in the movie Moonrise Kingdom:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I've got an older LL Bean jacket that looks very, very similar. Don't get much wear out of it this far south but it is a killer piece.


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## Leopold Leopoldovich (Nov 19, 2014)

I have a Gloverall monty that ends just below my pockets (I'm 5' 11") and an old LL Bean duffle and a Woolrich duffle that both reach damn near past my knees. Unfortunately whenever I wear them on campus people stare at me like I'm a hobo


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## housemartin (Nov 24, 2012)

Mid-length is just at the knee while their original duffle is usually at or just below the knee.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Gloverall Monty porn here:


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## fishertw (Jan 27, 2006)

I have two duffels. One is Gloverall and another by a maker in England sold by the Highland Store in London. Both fall just at the knee. Previous one may have been just about 1" longer but then again, I was a bit slimmer and the fit was generous at the time.


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## fred johnson (Jul 22, 2009)

I have always favored a full, long duffle, mine fits a little like this on but a bit shorter on my 6' frame. Its PRL from year ago with the original "snaps" hood closure.


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## orange fury (Dec 8, 2013)

I posted this a couple weeks ago on WAYWT, this is my Gloverall. Hits just above my knee, and definitely does it's job of keeping me warm:









Got it on ridiculous discount several years ago (several of us were talking about it on here, I forget where it was purchased from though). Made in England, and iirc it's a 70/30 or 80/20 wool blend.

Regarding the discussion of the blackwatch coat- too short for my taste and I wouldn't button it like that, but I would definitely wear a blackwatch duffle.


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## Captain America (Aug 28, 2012)

Mine's long in the tooth, but not in the length. It hits about knee or just past. Mine's camel colored, but nowadays would love the navy.

the best one of these I had was by LL Bean, in olive green, that I wore to pieces. Loved that thing; felt like Gandalf, before the movie.


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## LewisDias (Nov 30, 2018)

I am going to make up on this topic because I am about to buy my first duffle.
I found a gloverall with a good discount on sales, but it is a mid length model.

What is your opinion of this size in a duffle coat? does he look well?










(i got a random google photo) but the model is this https://www.gloverall.com/products/mens-mid-length-duffle-coat-ct


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

LewisDias said:


> I am going to make up on this topic because I am about to buy my first duffle.
> I found a gloverall with a good discount on sales, but it is a mid length model.
> 
> What is your opinion of this size in a duffle coat? does he look well?
> ...


Based on it's length, I wouldn't call that a Duffle Coat It looks more like a car coat. If you are buying a proper duffle coat, it should be at least a foot longer than the one pictured. The designed purpos of a duffle was to protect one from the debilitating effects of blustering wind gusts and driven rains associated with a squall. It just won't work if your coat stops at about mid-butt cheek! Good luck in your quest!


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## LewisDias (Nov 30, 2018)

eagle2250 said:


> Based on it's length, I wouldn't call that a Duffle Coat It looks more like a car coat. If you are buying a proper duffle coat, it should be at least a foot longer than the one pictured. The designed purpos of a duffle was to protect one from the debilitating effects of blustering wind gusts and driven rains associated with a squall. It just won't work if your coat stops at about mid-butt cheek! Good luck in your quest!


I agree with you, but being a short guy 1.71m. I'm afraid the classic cut might get too big on me and look like I'm wearing my dad's coat..
I would honestly buy Monty, which is the classic and most beautiful gloverall, but it costs 3 times more than mid (not discounted). Just because I was interested in this mid length
But there is an advantage of mid cut, it will be more comfortable to wear out there.


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## Vecchio Vespa (Dec 3, 2011)

LewisDias said:


> I agree with you, but being a short guy 1.71m. I'm afraid the classic cut might get too big on me and look like I'm wearing my dad's coat..
> I would honestly buy Monty, which is the classic and most beautiful gloverall, but it costs 3 times more than mid (not discounted). Just because I was interested in this mid length
> But there is an advantage of mid cut, it will be more comfortable to wear out there.


It's a nice looking coat, just not a duffle. If it meets your needs, go for it. If it doesn't, keep searching. The right coat for you is out there. This isn't 1965 with you marooned at high school where you will be dissed for not wearing what the cool guys say is "right."


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## LewisDias (Nov 30, 2018)

My brother lent me his duffle coat which according to gloverall's website measurements has exactly the same compliance measurement, 84cm


















I didn't care if it was a little longer, but so I guess it's not bad, opinions?


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## London380sl (Apr 17, 2009)

It should be a little longer but for the mild winters you have in Lisbon that is an acceptable length . It's also easier to walk around and live with. I find a knee length jacket slightly reduces your step length and they pull down on the shoulders when you sit down unless you give the jacket a light lift when sitting down.


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## richard warren (Dec 10, 2015)

Looks fine to me.

As to whether it is a real duffle coat...

I will restrain my annoying tendency to talk about Baudrillard and just say, “Of course it is.”


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## LewisDias (Nov 30, 2018)

Actually I wanted a classic duffle coat, but thinking about my 1.70m, a long duffle would go over my knees, and the coat would swallow me, besides in my city it's not so cold.
Mid length is not what I wanted but it makes the most sense.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

richard warren said:


> Looks fine to me.
> 
> As to whether it is a real duffle coat...
> 
> I will restrain my annoying tendency to talk about Baudrillard and just say, "Of course it is."


The problem is that 'readl' duffle coats were actually shapeless, crudely made, several sizes oversized literal overcoats that were issued en mass to British sailors for use only shipboard during bad weather. They are extremely unsophisticated garments. Consequently, everyone, including Gloverall, has civilized them to sell to the public.


LewisDias said:


> Actually I wanted a classic duffle coat, but thinking about my 1.70m, a long duffle would go over my knees, and the coat would swallow me, besides in my city it's not so cold.
> Mid length is not what I wanted but it makes the most sense.


If you're getting on and off public transit, or other vehicles, and you're not doing long schleps in bad weather, then your coat should be just fine. Also, it didn't cost you anything!


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