# Gabardine vs. non-gabardine wool trousers



## AndTun1 (Jul 22, 2005)

1) What is the difference between gabardine & non-gabardine wool trousers?

2) What are the pros & cons of each type?

3) Which do you favor?


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## Will (Jun 15, 2004)

Gabardine is a tight wool (or cotton once in a while) twill weave that's best for Spring and Fall. It's usually woven in 10-12 ounce weights that are warm in the summer and not warm enough in winter.


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## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

Gabardine is a good choice for solid-color trousers because the diagonal ribbing gives some surface interest to the cloth.


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## Shirtmaven (Jan 2, 2004)

Gabardine will start to shine after a while.


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## marlinspike (Jun 4, 2007)

Shine after time has past or after it has been dry cleaned several times? In my experience, they only start to shine after someone irons them using too high a heat or repeatedly irons them using a heat that is high but considered acceptable.


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## smr (Apr 24, 2005)

Shirtmaven said:


> Gabardine will start to shine after a while.


I've never noticed a shine on my older wool garbardine trousers. When this occurs, is it subtle?


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

yes gab is a tightly woven that has been used for topcoats as well for many years. gabardine is a tough hard wearing cloth cousin to whipcord and cavalry twill. the matting and compressing of the yarns causes shine.
the yarns are so tightly woven together that they will shine long long before they will show signs of wear. those areas are usually elbows, seats, and areas of pressure and abrasion. sometimes a cleaners pressing machine adjusted for too much pressure may cause shine. 
gab being tightly woven will not allow body heat to escape like a tropical will. 
so its not a good choice for summer wear.
yet being so tightly woven, it does not have the bulk [fluffy thickness] to be a good insulator. although it is a good wind blocker.


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## silverporsche (Nov 3, 2005)

*gabardine vs non-gabardine wool*

Is there anyway to get rid of the shine on a pair of wool gabardine trousers ?
The trousers are a part of a dark blue Ralph Laruen suit , the jacket and other sections are fine ?


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## Teacher (Mar 14, 2005)

silverporsche said:


> Is there anyway to get rid of the shine on a pair of wool gabardine trousers ?
> The trousers are a part of a dark blue Ralph Laruen suit , the jacket and other sections are fine ?


Someone once told me that rubbing that area with a (clean!) toothbrush will "brush out" the shine. I frankly don't think I could bring myself to trying this on a nice gab for fear that I would more add wear than take away the shine.


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## Teacher (Mar 14, 2005)

Some people got..._the shiiine._


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## wvuguy (May 29, 2006)

a tailor said:


> gab being tightly woven will not allow body heat to escape like a tropical will. so its not a good choice for summer wear.
> yet being so tightly woven, it does not have the bulk [fluffy thickness] to be a good insulator. although it is a good wind blocker.


Is there, therefore, a more "paradoxical" fabric anywhere then gab ???

Will be interested to see how I personally like them over time, as I'm wearing (this season) my first four pairs of true gabardine (purchased on very deep discount) from JAB. And while these particular slacks......like most products from JAB.....may not be mistaken for the finest kind, I find them very comfortable and really quite good looking.

None of them are extremely dark.....sage, olive, lighter/medium blue, and a rust that's certainly somewhat deeper tone than the others.....so I'm hoping this characteristic shining problem might be something that's mititgated to an extent by color.


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## marlinspike (Jun 4, 2007)

Teacher said:


> Someone once told me that rubbing that area with a (clean!) toothbrush will "brush out" the shine. I frankly don't think I could bring myself to trying this on a nice gab for fear that I would more add wear than take away the shine.


If you brush your clothes after every wearing, and steam them in the bath once per week, iron them on a low heat, and don't dry clean often, I think you will find that you wear out the belt loops before the pants get a shine.


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## ksinc (May 30, 2005)

The best way to avoid the shine is to avoid navy and black gabs. IMHO tan and maybe stone or olive gabs, with gray and charcoal in light-weight flannel.


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## AndTun1 (Jul 22, 2005)

*I guess there should have been more details in my thread*

Thanks to everyone for responding to my thread. I am looking for new Monday through Friday, work trousers. My company's dress code is business casual (slacks with dress shirts, no jackets or ties). I work in a state of the art building so except for a 5 minute walk from the company parking lot to my building, the temperature I would be wearing the trousers is always 70 degress.

Based on the following info, should I look to buy gabardine or non-gabardine wool trousers? The max I want to pay for each trousers is $200. Thanks


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## Will (Jun 15, 2004)

It's not a binary choice. More than 90% of all trouser material is not gabardine. Corduroy, flannel, serge, etc.


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## AndTun1 (Jul 22, 2005)

Will: I have no interest in Corduroy, flannel or serge trousers, I am just interested in gabardine vs. non-garbardine wool trousers.


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## Will (Jun 15, 2004)

AndTun1 said:


> Will: I have no interest in Corduroy, flannel or serge trousers, I am just interested in gabardine vs. non-garbardine wool trousers.


Non-gabardine trousers are not a "type" and comparisons are meaningless.


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## Cantabrigian (Aug 29, 2005)

Will said:


> Non-gabardine trousers are not a "type" and comparisons are meaningless.


I think he's talking about plain weave vs. twill/gabardine.

I have found gabs to be softer and drape better.

Most gabardine fabrics I have seen tend to be heavier and marginally less breathable than the corresponding plain weave pants.


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## ksinc (May 30, 2005)

gab vs. non-gab wool trousers but not serge or flannel???!!!

Whatchutalkinabout Willis - plain weave year rounders? 

Can you just link to the trousers you are referring/considering?


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## Andy (Aug 25, 2002)

Gabardine is a type of weave that can be done with wool or cotton.

From *The Encyclopedia of Men's Clothes:*
*Gabardine* - a firm, tightly woven fabric characterized by a raised diagonal twill lines.​It's worsted if it's wool. (Also from TEMC):
Wool fabrics are either woolen or worsted, depending upon how their yarns are produced.

*Woolen fabrics* (tweeds and fleeces) are from yarns with short wool fibers that lie in all directions. The fabrics are thick and surfaces are somewhat soft, and fuzzy. Woolens are loosely woven yarns to create a soft, lofty textile such as a Harris Tweed or a flannel. 

*Worsted fabrics* (gabardine, sharkskin) are tightly woven, smooth hard surfaced fabric made of highly twisted yarn spun from combed, long-staple wool fibers. This wool yarn originated in the town of Worsted, now spelled Worstead, in Norfolk, England. ​


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## AndTun1 (Jul 22, 2005)

ksinc said:


> gab vs. non-gab wool trousers but not serge or flannel???!!!
> 
> Whatchutalkinabout Willis - plain weave year rounders?
> 
> Can you just link to the trousers you are referring/considering?


Here you go Ksinc:

https://www.josbank.com/IWCatProduc...d=1&Section_Id=1300&pcount=&Product_Id=370473

https://www.josbank.com/IWCatProduc...Id=1&Section_Id=1300&pcount=&Product_Id=28256

https://www.menswearhouse.com/mensw...owsePath=1408474395562303&bmUID=1183401824733

https://www.menswearhouse.com/mensw...owsePath=1408474395560550&bmUID=1183401824747


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## ksinc (May 30, 2005)

Thank You!

I wear the JAB Signature pleated gabardine trousers in tan.

The Siggys at less than $90 are a good value IMHO. They will work their way down over time. I would not pay $135 for them.

I consider the diamond and herringbone weaves a bit dress-casual. You could wear those with say a very nice lisle polo (hemmed sleeves) and croc loafers.

I personally do not wear loafers or polos with dress slacks. I prefer a more sporty, outdoors, Orvis, Filson look. I wear polos with Bills and big clunky oxfords. Just personal preference 

The JAB Sig flannels I have are light weight and I wear them in gray(s). Almost all the JAB Sig trousers are 7oz-8oz. They are soft-finished and do not shine and breath better than the gabs IMHO.

I would also recommend the Siggy Tropicals if you don't want gabs.

https://www.josbank.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Merchant_Id=1&Section_Id=&pcount=&Product_Id=190719

Whether JAB is generally better than MW or if just the Siggys and Sig Golds are is a matter of frequent debate. I personally like the JAB Siggys. I was told before they are LP fabric and they are made well IMHO. The cuffing service is consistent which is what I like. Often I have been told by LE for instance that there is a 1-2" allowable variance in their cuffing. Well, that's not acceptable to me. At JAB 44" outseam means 44" not 43"-45". I find they are a very consistent with such things. For $69-$89 they are a good value.


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## wvuguy (May 29, 2006)

ksinc said:


> Thank You!
> 
> I wear the JAB Signature pleated gabardine trousers in tan.
> 
> ...


I purchased all four pairs of my pleated Sig gabardines online for *under $50*. As most of us know.....when it comes to Joe Bank.....it pretty much ALWAYS pays to wait, at least (or especially) if you're flexible on color.


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## ksinc (May 30, 2005)

wvuguy said:


> I purchased all four pairs of my pleated Sig gabardines online for *under $50*. As most of us know.....when it comes to Joe Bank.....it pretty much ALWAYS pays to wait, at least (or especially) if you're flexible on color.


Yes but, there's no F (for flexible) in OCD!


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