# Shell Cordovan Advantages/Disadvantages



## alcon (Apr 15, 2005)

Getting ready to take the leap and buy my second pair of Aldens (1st pair was the Indy boots). Looking at the shell cordovan blucher but, not sure whether they are worth the extra money. They seem to be stiff compared to the calf but, I'm told they break-in nicely. I love the looks of them but, I need a shoe that will be pliable. Could anyone familiar with the Alden shell cordovan shoe line comment on their advantages and disadvantages? Thanks


----------



## bigCat (Jun 10, 2005)

I am going to try to keep this short...

Shell cordovan is more durable, and is comfortable after break in. It gets a different shine and requires less maintenance. The creases are different than calf, but that preference is a personal choice. I would argue that shell is better suited for gunboat style shoes (which Alden bluchers are). It's a classic (American, may I say trad) shoe. Don't worry about stiffness.

Price is the main drawback (versus Alden calf), There are issues with Alden's conservative styling, but if you already like Alden, that's not an issue.


----------



## tmack3 (Jan 14, 2006)

i have a pair alden 6 eyelet norwegians from alden of carmel. they took no more than 3 wearings to break-in. super comfortable and they look awesome. aldens are usually too conservative in looks for me, but the quality and comfort is top notch.


----------



## medwards (Feb 6, 2005)

There are some who find shell cordovan a bit too warm for summer wear (though I am not among them). There was also a recent thread on shell cordovan in inclement weather and how some members found that rain created discoloration or spots on their shoes. Here again, I have had a different experience and actually have a pair of cordovan shoes that I wear specifically on rainy days. Good cordovan is very robust, can stand up to a great deal of wear, and -- if properly cared for -- last a very long time.


----------



## lee_44106 (Apr 10, 2006)

If you're like me, once you try shell cordovan you won't go back to calf; well, maybe quality calf on sale. The Alden #8 shells are just beautiful, substantial, and different. They are the ONLY clothing items I'm willing to pay retail at this point.


----------



## alcon (Apr 15, 2005)

Is there an Alden shell cordovan tie dress shoe that is not considered "gun boat?"


----------



## cpac (Mar 25, 2005)

alcon said:


> Is there an Alden shell cordovan tie dress shoe that is not considered "gun boat?"


I think the plain toe bals I got from the shop on madison actually look fairly sleek. Not as exaggerated as some lobb or eg, but not in the "gunboat" club either.


----------



## rick lombardo (Mar 4, 2006)

I am fairly new to the art of shoe purchasing, but in liitle time did I realize how much I love my Santoni and Florshiem Imperial Cordovan shoes. No break in period of major note needed and I may add less than my calf shoes. My next purchase will try to be a whiskey shell blucher when I see it at a fair price.
Go my son ...Purchase the cordovan. You will not be dissapointed.


----------



## arenn (Dec 29, 2003)

I believe Alden sells some cordovan on the Aberdeen last, which is definitely less chunky than the Barrie.

Personally, I love cordovan for the unique colors. The color 8, the cigar, and whiskey are all lovely - and there are other rare colors as well. I've got a pair of AE Brentwoods in Merlot that I wear frequently and I must say that the color looks so fake next to a rich color 8 shell. I would not be as inclined to go with the shell for black, but I hear some are fans.


----------



## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

*shell cordovan*

I would highly recommend shell cordovan shoes. They age beautiful and last a life time. Very easy to maintain. Shell cordovan shoes are very contagious.


----------



## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Alcon, you will never find shoes that are more durable or easier to maintain, than a pair of cordovan leather footgear. Cordovan shoes can weigh a bit more than a calfskin version of the same shoe but, the difference is not that significant and, once broken in, they are just as comfortable as calfskin shoes. Should you make the leap to cordovan, it is a decision you will not regret!


----------



## 6waters (Mar 7, 2005)

I bought my first pair of Alden Chukkas (Barrie Last) in Whiskey this fall, and I agree that the break in time was very fast. The shoes felt great right from the start. Of course I wore them on carpet for about 20 minutes because after dropping $500+ I wanted to be super sure that the fit was good. I ordered them from one of the San Francisco shops because the local Chicago outlet can't get the Whiskey color.

I think the Alden of Carmel site says the Barrie runs a half size large, which I find to be true. I wear a 10.5 D Allen Edmonds and the Barrie 10 D fit nearly the same, though it is on the narrower side of Medium, thin socks work best.

I am surprised at how rugged the cordovan feels. With the thick soles and the waxy finish, these shoes feel pretty bullet-proof. I have even worn them 'off road' a few times with no ill effects. Be prepared for an unusual aroma though - much like a new Barbour there seems to be a faint smell that differentiates the shoes from calf.

I have not noticed any finish problems from wet weather - either wet grass or light rain. They even survive the bumps and bruises associated with the reckless foot placement of others one experiences on public transportation.


----------



## manton (Jul 26, 2003)

They tend to look a little more rustic than calf. This is not really a disadvantage, but it can make them more of a specialty shoe. Perhaps not the thing to wear with crisp worsteds and white FC shirts. At least not if you want to present the most formal possible image.


----------



## KenR (Jun 22, 2005)

Also check out the Alden for Brooks Brothers shells which often have minor styling differences, especially with the wing tips.


----------



## thinman (Jan 21, 2005)

I'm going to put in a plug for C&J shell cordovan shoes. I own the RL Darlton wingtip and MacCallum chukka boots and really appreciate the deep brown color that isn't readily available from Alden (though I do realize that Alden of Carmel and a few others offer various shades of brown Aldens). My Darlton wingtips are among my favorite shoes and, although I'm saving the chukka boots for inclement weather, I like them too. 

Lest anyone think I'm unreasonably favoring C&J over Alden, I should mention that I also own the Alden LHS in black and color 8 and they see a lot of wear as well.

Oh, alcon, if you want plain toe bluchers or wingtips you should check polo.com to find pricing on the Darlton in brown cordovan. The brown Darlton's (shell cordovan) are priced the same as the black calfskin models and are quite a deal during sales, especially with coupon stacking. They are made by C&J.


----------



## Luckyguy (Jul 20, 2006)

*Alden, AE and Polo(C&J) cordo*

I agree with thinman that the RL Darlton wingtip is an excellent shoe. I like its brown color cordovan that Alden and AE cordo don't have, well, at least not exactly the same brown.

I am an owner of many cordovan shoes including Alden's black shell, #8, whiskey, AE's black shell and cordovan as well as the RL Darlton brown shell cordo. I like them all, but I favor Alden's #8 the best. I guess it's just a matter of personal taste or preference.

At the end, I found myself partial to Alden's shell cordovan shoes. Period.Just like lee_44106, Alden shell cordo shoe is one of the few clothing items that I am willing to pay retail. I have not convinced myself to try Vass and Camina cordo yet, but they sure look nice in the websites.

I am also in agreement with many forumites here that once you have your first shell cordovan shoe, you would like to have more because they are...hmm.. addictive; so be forewarned.:icon_smile:


----------



## billiebob (Apr 20, 2005)

My situation is similar.

I too own the Barrie lasted BB plaintoe in #8 and the RL Darlton cordovan and calf. The BB shoe is the only shoe I've ever paid retail for, and they are among my favorites, though the soles are softer and wear faster than my other brands. This translates into serious comfort.


----------



## Roger (Feb 18, 2005)

manton said:


> They tend to look a little more rustic than calf. This is not really a disadvantage, but it can make them more of a specialty shoe. Perhaps not the thing to wear with crisp worsteds and white FC shirts. At least not if you want to present the most formal possible image.


Manton, this is helpful, as I'm currently considering shell cordovan for a pair of shoes to wear with sports jackets and ties. Is your opinion of the range of suitability of cordovan based on only Alden and Allen-Edmonds shoes, or have you also examined shell cordovan available from C&J, Vass and Carmina? My highly-placed sources tell me that the shell cordovan in Vass shoes, for example, is somewhat finer (and possibly a little thinner) than that found in Alden shoes and looks great on trim U-last shoes.


----------



## gangsta_lean (Oct 12, 2005)

Go for it!! you won't be disappointed. i'm a cordo convert too and looking to complete the RL darlton triumvirate with the brown cordo loafers on nov16. just to reiterate what everyone else has already noted...both my darltons broke in fairly quickly and are super duper comfy. also the color is very rich and complex. none of my calf shoes come close in that dept.


----------



## paper clip (May 15, 2006)

I can add nothing except my hearty agreement with all of the positive points above raised. I have the 986 and the BB bluchers. My two favorite pair of shoes by far. I can easily see the day when all I own are cordo shoes, like my idol, McArthur.


----------



## RSS (Dec 30, 2003)

I have more shoes that I care to admit ... and two of my all-time favorite pairs are Alden's Cordovan plain toe and Cordovan split toe (Norwegian) bluchers. Nothing looks better with my tweeds and flannels. 

Just yesterday I dropped into the Alden shop on Sutter and picked up a new pair with split toe. I understand this model is being made in the dark brown cordovan ... arriving in our area sometime next spring. Still, nothing beats the color of traditional cordovan. 

In terms of positives and negatives ... in my experience my Alden cordovans tend to last longer than any of my other shoes. Now I'll admit ... I take good care of my shoes ... but in no way do I give the cordovans any special care above and beyond the others. There are some pairs in my closet that date back to the late 60s and 70s ... and they still look beautiful ... having developed a lustrous patina. 

As for discoloration due to water ... I've had relatively few if any problems. In fact I keep a couple of older pair for particularly wet days. They are just “down right” durable. 

I do have a pair of Vass split-toe bluchers in Cordovan. The Vass is quite a different shoe from that made by Alden ... very beautiful in its own way ... albeit a bit more rustic. I truly like them ... and they are beautifully made … but they don't seem to me to be as "substantial" as my Alden's ... although they are about the same in weight. I might add that the color of the Vass cordovan is a bit more toward brown than is the classic Alden cordovan ... although at the time I purchased the shoes I selected what I thought to be the traditional cordovan color ... not a brown version of. 

One final word … the Vass shoes don’t seem to have the same luster as the Aldens.


----------



## manton (Jul 26, 2003)

Roger: I have shell from Alden (BB), Carmina and Vass. The Carminas are brown, the others are burgundy (oxblood, whatever). I agree with Scott that the Alden color has more luster, more depth and variation than the Vass. But the Vass is probably a bit finer. However, it still looks thicker and waxier than calf to me.


----------



## RSS (Dec 30, 2003)

I note that "rustic" has been used referring to cordovan in a number of posts. I used the term in my post above ... but allow me to clarify. I was referring to the particular style of my Vass shoe, the Norwegier Model ... not so much the hide (membrane actually) itself ... although it certainly applies.

And while I note the shoes are about the same weight ... I think Manton is correct ... the Vass cordovan is a bit finer ... and a bit thiner.


----------



## Roger (Feb 18, 2005)

Manton and Scott, thanks for this information about shell cordovan as found in shoes other than Alden and A-E. (I have the Alden 974 shell cordovan in No.8 color--a true battleship of a shoe!) Do you care for the Vass and Carmina shoes the same way that Alden recommends for theirs--with very infrequent polishings using light applications of the special cordovan polish? Can you get the Vass cordovans up to a high shine?


----------



## manton (Jul 26, 2003)

Roger, they all shine up extremely well. I suppose because of the density of cordovan, the polish does not work its way into the material, and so tends to build up and flake off. Thus, using less is indeed the way to go.


----------



## RSS (Dec 30, 2003)

Roger, I do use a cordovan specific polish ... as you note infrequently ... the frequency depending more upon how often I wear them rather than any specified period of time. I do, however, buff them with a soft cloth prior to each wear ... and that brings up a nice shine.

I have just given the Vass (have to make certain comments are accurate) pair a buff ... and they shine nicely ... but it's not as bright or glassy a shine as that of the Alden shoes. It's a different luster ... a bit more like the luster of a natural pearl. I'm not sure this is making sense ... and if I didn't have the two side by side ... I'm not sure I'd notice the difference quite as much as I do at the moment.


----------



## Roger (Feb 18, 2005)

manton said:


> Roger: I have shell from Alden (BB), Carmina and Vass. The Carminas are brown, the others are *burgundy* (oxblood, whatever)....


I recall reading recently in a well-received book about men's style that the only acceptable colors for shoes are black and brown. Can't we expect you, Manton, of all people, to adhere to this sensible principle? _Burgundy _(shudder)!


----------



## manton (Jul 26, 2003)

Roger said:


> I recall reading recently in a well-received book about men's style that the only acceptable colors for shoes are black and brown. Can't we expect you, Manton, of all people, to adhere to this sensible principle? _Burgundy _(shudder)!


See, people don't read carefully. Look again, cf. pp. 89 with 91.


----------



## Roger (Feb 18, 2005)

manton said:


> See, people don't read carefully. Look again, cf. pp. 89 with 91.


Mea culpa, Manton. I have sinned of my own grievous fault. Indeed, shell cordovan is given as the exception to the "nothing but black and brown" rule. Early-onset Alzheimer's is a terrible thing. It's clearly time for a rereading!


----------

