# Kamakura Shirts OCBD



## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

So, there's surprisingly little info and pictures about this company on the web. Figured I'd give them a try, given the good reviews from a couple others here. I was not disappointed.

https://shop.kamakurashirts.com/goods_en_usd_189.html

The fit on the Tokyo Slim is quite slim, though it was the only fit line that had 16-35 available. It's not really uncomfortable, however, because the armholes were surprisingly high for RTW and gave good movement. The chest could stand to be loosened a tad though. Construction quality is about even with Brooks Brothers. The button-down collar and cuffs have interfacing, but are unfused. Placket has no interfacing at all. The collar is actually a bit taller than I expected, especially from a Japanese company, but the roll and spread are excellent. Like Mercer & Sons, they do it better than the original now.

The only cons? Like Ledbury, there's only one sleeve length available for each neck size, further mucked up by this being _different for each fit_. The buttons are placed a bit high and close to the collar, not giving quite enough of a "V" at the neck when worn open. The back is darted on the slim fits, which may be a deal breaker for some, though I would just like some side pleats. Additionally, for the time being, you have to pay $21 for shipping from Japan, bringing $79 up to $100 even. A more minor nitpick is that the oxford isn't quite as hefty as some might prefer, but it's certainly not Lands' End thin.

Is it worth it? I think so, if you can fit into them. They need to get rid of the weird sizing system.


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

Nice collar roll, but the darts kill it for me. Also, when you say the fabric isn't "Lands' End thin" are you comparing it with the Hyde Park or the Original Oxford? I'm assuming it's thinner than BB.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Original Oxford. It feels about the same thickness as BB, but it's not Mercer-grade bulletproof stuff.

Curious why the darts kill it for you, as I used to feel the same. Will any of the other fits' dimensions work for you?

EDIT: Forgot to say that the shirts have mother of pearl buttons, putting them somewhat ahead of Brooks Brothers in this respect as well.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Sounds like a pretty decent shirt for the price asked. Too bad they don't have an expanded availability of sizes. From the dimensions offered by the brand, it would seem that aging, weightlifting, former grapplers are not to be welcomed as customers! LOL.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

The Classic fits won't work for you?


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## MaxBuck (Apr 4, 2013)

Looks like a pretty nice, ordinary OCBD. The hem join at the collar isn't very good. 

Don't see any compelling reason to choose this over the Lands' End Hyde Park at about $25-30 less.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Can you elaborate on this?


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Jovan said:


> The Classic fits won't work for you?


I had pulled up the Tokoyo Classic fit, not realizing they also offered a NY Classic fit and it appeared the sleeve length options would be way too short. The NY classic fit sizing options fixes that. Thanks for the heads-up, Jovan!


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

You're welcome.


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

Jovan said:


> Original Oxford. It feels about the same thickness as BB, but it's not Mercer-grade bulletproof stuff.
> 
> Curious why the darts kill it for you, as I used to feel the same. Will any of the other fits' dimensions work for you?
> 
> EDIT: Forgot to say that the shirts have mother of pearl buttons, putting them somewhat ahead of Brooks Brothers in this respect as well.


I'm not a fan of that as a detail on a man's shirt. Not saying it's wrong or anything, it's just not something I would wear. The MOP buttons are a very nice touch though.



MaxBuck said:


> Looks like a pretty nice, ordinary OCBD. The hem join at the collar isn't very good.
> 
> Don't see any compelling reason to choose this over the Lands' End Hyde Park at about $25-30 less.


I disagree. If it is comparable to BB's oxford cloth as Jovan mentioned, for an extra $30 you're getting more substantial fabric (my HP's have barely lasted two years before blowing through the fabric at the collars), a collar that is not only sized to wear with ties but rolls beautifully, and MOP buttons.


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## WillBr (Dec 15, 2009)

I just picked up my second Kamakura, an alternating blue and red uni stripe, when I was in NYC last weekend. I'm a fan, and recommend checking out the shop if you're able...much larger selection than the online store. 

The Tokyo regular has a standard center box pleat instead of the darts, and is fairly close in size to a Brooks slim.


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## MaxBuck (Apr 4, 2013)

Jovan said:


> Can you elaborate on this?











Looks like sloppy design to me.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

There was a bit of overhead lighting, so it may be creating a shadow there.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Got a few requests for collar dimensions. The collar point is... wait for it... a full 3 3/4" long. The rear band height is 1 1/2" and the rear collar height is 2". That's a serious collar, and well suited to anyone around my height.


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## Tilton (Nov 27, 2011)

pics of the framed fantasy chess print (?!) in the background, please.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

https://www.peterpracownik.com/page...inspired-by-tolkien-lord-of-the-rings-l06.htm


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## Youthful Repp-robate (Sep 26, 2011)

MaxBuck said:


> Don't see any compelling reason to choose this over the Lands' End Hyde Park at about $25-30 less.


Collar on recent Hyde Parks is more Uniqlo than BB.


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## MaxBuck (Apr 4, 2013)

Fair points from the comments on Hyde Park. I haven't bought one for several years, and all indications are that the quality has tanked.

Not sure there's really a good value nowadays in an OCBD. The only ones I see that appeal to me are Gitman Bros., and I don't see paying a Benjamin for an OCBD.


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## Tempest (Aug 16, 2012)

WillBr said:


> I just picked up my second Kamakura, an alternating blue and red uni stripe, when I was in NYC last weekend. I'm a fan, and recommend checking out the shop if you're able...much larger selection than the online store.
> 
> The Tokyo regular has a standard center box pleat instead of the darts, and is fairly close in size to a Brooks slim.


Does the store have try-on shirts available? Besides this weird metric sizing, I have wide shoulder issues that cause problems with most slimmer shirts, and I'm not sure if this tall collar band is something I'd love or hate. I'd rather make the trip and try a few on than gamble with mail order.

How quickly did the mail order shirt arrive? My suspicion is that one is forced to pay for express shipping. I can wait a few extra days to save a couple bucks.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

It was less than a week. Not very long considering it's coming from Asia.


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## WillBr (Dec 15, 2009)

Tempest said:


> Does the store have try-on shirts available? Besides this weird metric sizing, I have wide shoulder issues that cause problems with most slimmer shirts, and I'm not sure if this tall collar band is something I'd love or hate. I'd rather make the trip and try a few on than gamble with mail order.


Yes, the shop has try on shirts, and they guys working there are about as knowledgable and friendly as you'll find. As you walk in, the Tokyo cuts are on the left, and the New York cuts are on the right. Within each category, a navy tags denotes a slim fit, with the regulars have a white tag.


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## Tempest (Aug 16, 2012)

Good to know, thanks. I've heard that people usually veer to the right upon entry, so that's a logical arrangement.


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## jdemy (Aug 30, 2013)

Hey All-

I have been back to Kamakura a number of times and have purchased a lot. I wrote this up for another site and thought I would post it here as I've been following this thread as well:

There's a reason everybody is so excited about the Kamakura shirts-- they're great. But I don't think that's why they're being talked about all the time. Nope. It's something else. It's because they have an *identity*. What do I mean? Read on...

For years, we've all been spending 100 bucks to buy some corporate committee's flaccid version of the once-great Brooks Brothers shirt. We've seen Land's End - which, let's face it, was always second rate- get even worse by chopping their collar down to a fashionable nub. We've been sending away to David Mercer for baggy, 80's style, shirts which, however nice they are, start at $135 for anything besides oxford cloth--- and rise considerably from there. Same with Gitman and O'Connell's. J. Crew? Gant? Come on. These are throwaway offerings created for people who have never worn a shirt made with care.

I can already hear people saying "Well, what about Luxire and Paris and all those bespoke places...?", but that brings me right back to my original point; the oxford cloth button down shirt is the quintessential off the rack shirt and it should NOT be made in some fancy bespoke place. American manufacturers created the popularity of the button down shirt in all its common-place, casual greatness. The shirts had an identity; they were affordable, relaxed but smart, and at the height of their popularity they defined a real American egalitarian ideal--- *everyone* could have access to the same great, classic look.

So let's start with a review of the shirts: first off, they are made beautifully- someone cares about the stitching, the shell buttons-- and for once the damn collar rolls!!! The fabrics are either great workhorse oxford cloths or nice day-to-day pinpoints (*my favorites...though I don't own any broadcloths.) Though they do offer Made to Measure and 300 count shirts, the great thing about the shirts at Kamakura is that they are your everyday shirt- but done with old fashioned care and style and workmanship. All somehow in a shirt that is under $80!! (PS- Their knit oxford pique shirt is one of the most comfortable things I own and no one has yet guessed it isn't cloth.)

But- and here's my point if anyone is still reading- Kamakura is doing well not only because their product is good. It's because they re-embody a lot of the ideals that started the popularity of the button down in the first place. They haven't just "Frankenstein-ed" the best parts of historically great shirts together (the way most other makers have done). Instead,they've made shirts that have an IDENTITY ALL THEIR OWN. They have re-imagined the traditional American button down and come up with THEIR version; somewhat slimmer, more precise, neat without being fashion-y and topped it off with a grand collar that frames the neck and face.

So why am I posting this long speech? I'm selfish. I want to buy shirts from this place for a long, long time. I want them to do well so they'll have more patterns available and bring in the jackets and other products I see they sell in their Japanese stores. Also, when is the last time you went into a tiny store in Manhattan and had the sales people offer you Japanese desserts, iced water or ran to hold the door as you left?


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## drlivingston (Jun 21, 2012)

I like to try out new products, so I ordered two of the New York Classic fit in pinpoint. I hope the arms are generous. I was only going to order one but you get free shipping with two.:icon_smile:


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## Himself (Mar 2, 2011)

Thanks for the review. It's nice to know about another option!

That's a healthy collar. Great look with the BB tie.

I actually _like_ the higher 2nd button on some of these shirts, vs., say, the older BB that others seem to love.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Well, I've run into a little snag and I'm not sure how... the sleeves have shrunk noticeably after a few washes. I hang dry everything, so I'm not sure how that happened. I don't know if it's worth raising a stink to them about it, but I was a bit disappointed.


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## jdemy (Aug 30, 2013)

Hmmm...I haven't had that at al...sorry to hear. In fact, everything I put in the dryer shrank pretty much the way i wanted it to (I bought some items a bit large- like the knit shirts) but the ones I drip dried and ironed are the same....


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## Spex (Nov 25, 2012)

Hey guys, since I'm not anywhere near NYC nor do I have a trip planned I'm trying to do my best to figure out the most appropriate size for me. I'm a slim (31/32 waist) 6'2" who normally wears a 15.5/34 shirt. I could stand to actually wear a shirt with a slightly larger (15.75?) collar and longer sleeve (35+?).

During an email exchange with Kamakura Shirts they've told me that I should choose a 16" collar size if I wear a 15.5" currently, due to shrinkage. I've narrowed it down to the NY Slim Fit 16/36.5. I'm just wondering if this is actually going to shrink down into a size that's going to work for me. My main concern is whether or not the body will be too baggy since the online guide states this shirt is to fit a waist of 34.5-36.5. I wanted to go for a Tokyo Slim, however the arm lengths seem to be a bit short. 

I understand that these details really won't ensure a proper fit, but it's all I can go with for now...


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## jddillard3 (Jun 7, 2013)

Nice little feature on Kamakura shirts.


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## Spex (Nov 25, 2012)

(I posted this same info on that other forum, but I thought some might find it useful here as well).

I just received two shirts that I recently ordered. Put in the order last Friday and received them today. I was unfortunately hit up with a substantial customs charge, so unless I figure out another way of obtaining these shirts, this might be it for a while. 

I picked up a OCBD NY Slim Fit size 16/36.5. As I mentioned in a previous post I generally wear a 15.5 34/35. I haven't laundered or dried (I don't usually dry any clothes in the dryer) this shirt yet, but here's how it fits right out of the box.

The 16" collar is a bit too large, not huge, but I'm hoping the 1/3" shrinkage occurs.

Shirts labelled with a 34/35 arm length are often just a bit too short for me. The 36.5 arms on this are definitely too long. Again, I'm hoping for some shrinkage. Jovan, you mentioned that your Tokyo Slim fit shirt's arms shrunk noticeably and you hang dry your shirts. For my sake I hope mine do shrink. Might be putting this one in the dryer for once.

The body could definitely be slimmer. I usually get shirts already labelled as slim fit darted by my tailor, so I really need a true slim fit. I would have opted for a Tokyo Slim but the sleeve lengths for the collar sizes I wanted did not exist. Again, hopefully shrinkage occurs in this respect. The shirt is pretty long as well. 

The material itself is a substantially thick cloth, which I like. There is no label stating that it's Xinjiang Cotton, unlike some examples on the website, but it was listed in the online description.

Now the other shirt I ordered was an indigo Vintage Ivy in a NY Fit Medium. The site lists the collar as a 15 3/4, and it's snug. Not tight, but snug. Should this shrink at all and I won't be buttoning up the top button. Funny how 1/4" seems to make a much larger difference. Sleeves are listed as 34.5" and they are pretty good. If it shrinks another 0.5" I think I'll still be OK. The body is perfect, much more slim than the other shirt. If this shrinks it may be too tight.

The site says about the Vintage Ivy Shirt: "PLEASE NOTE: These shirts have been washed to create a unique texture. This may cause the shirt to shrink up to 2 % from its original given measurements."

I'm not sure if this means that they've already washed them and the 2% shrinkage already occured. It's kind of confusing. I can only hope that my Vintage Ivy shirt does not shrink at all any more and that the OCBD shrinks down to the size of the Vintage Ivy.

I'll post an update after a wash or two...


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## immanuelrx (Dec 7, 2013)

Spex,

I was hoping you could update us on your experiences with the Kamakura OCDB shirts after a few washes. I am looking to pick some up and will need to figure out what sizes to get based on how they shrink. 

Also, since I am resurrecting this thread, anyone else care to share their experiences with Kamakura OCDB?


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## Hayek (Jun 20, 2006)

I had a Kamakura semi-spread before staining it. I didn't find that the collar shrank much, if at all. I bought what I think was the largest NY classic fit (16" neck and 35.5" sleeves, if I recall). It was always a bit baggy but didn't really shrink up that much. I'll likely go a size down (15.5" neck and 35" sleeve) next time I'm in their store.

It was a great shirt and I'm looking forward to buying more.


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## SG_67 (Mar 22, 2014)

I have close to a dozen now with about 3 of them being OCBD. I've had no problems with premature wear or shrinkage. Great shirt and a great value.


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## straw sandals (Apr 14, 2010)

I have six, and they're all excellent. The OCBD is the best of the best, with the (sadly discontinued) club collar a close second. The collar roll is great, and the fabric is beautiful, thick, and hard wearing. I find that the Xinjiang cotton stains around the neck and collar, but it's still an excellent shirt. I also have two of the polo fabric long sleeves, which are great for semi-casual wear with jeans or khakis. If you can something that fits in their slightly strange sizing matrix, I highly recommend them.

Also, their ties and pocket squares are not cheap, but they're very well made.


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## TheoProf (Dec 17, 2012)

Agree with the above. I've experienced no problems with my Kamakura OCBDs or PPBDs. I will say that their broadcloth spread collar shirts fit noticibly tighter than the other two. All my shirts are Tokyo Slim Fit 35-85.


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