# Eddie Jacobs Baltimore Field Trip



## MacT (Feb 16, 2008)

A few weeks ago, after mentioning this shop as a possible source for Atkinson's Irish Poplin ties, I decided to check out their selection & check out the shop as a source for the mid-gray pinstripe sack suit I *need*.

They did not have the Atkinson's tie I was looking for-- a hunter green pattern that O'Connell's had, but which is now sold out-- kicking myself for not pulling the trigger on that one. Jacobs' in-stock selection is something taken in at a few glances. It is a small shop, after all, with just a couple-a-guys handling the walk-ins & their regulars over the phone. It's an unpretentious place that doesn't take long to browse if you're in the area.

My impressions on the RTW suit selection: 85-90% are sacks, with most by Southwick & H. Freeman. According to one of the salesmen, the house brand is made by RNG-- Richard Grieco who sold the Southwick operation awhile ago. The jacket I tried on fit like a Douglas, and the suit was a little less than $495 list; pretty good quality, and it was 20% off at the time. IIRC, they said base fabric RTW Southwicks were $795, and ordering from the book is going to be 2-300 more. 

Although they did not have what I was looking for, I hope this place sticks around for awhile.


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## longwing (Mar 28, 2005)

Nice report. I think there were a few posts about RNG a while back. A low cost Douglas knockoff sounds great to me. Do you know if they are imported?

Sounds like a nice store. I wish they updated their website more. Or ever.


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## MacT (Feb 16, 2008)

Longwing, I was so focused on other things that I did not ask about where RNG's operation is, and have not figured it out on my own. Wish I'd checked the labels. I'm not that far away, and the next time I'm there, I'll pay more attention. I did get the impression that RNG uses its old Grieco patterns, so if you want a budget Southwick, it might be a good option. At any rate, I think the sales guy said that all of Jacobs' stock suits are US-made. Maybe one of the Baltimore-area members will chime in.

+1 on the website. They are definitely not geared to the inet customer.


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## Tom Buchanan (Nov 7, 2005)

Actually, after you have seen Eddie Jacobs, it is the kind of place that might surprise you that they have a website at all. Definately old school. I read an article a while back in which Eddie Jacobs, Jr. said something to the effect that their customers were just looking to replace items that they have had for a long time that wore out. In other words, I think they have resigned themselves to being a bit out of fashion and do not expect too many new customers.

It is a good resource for anyone who lives in the Baltimore area. And worth giving them a call if you are looking for a particular item.


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## Danny (Mar 24, 2005)

Very small shop, good merchandise. It's like a J Press Jr for Baltimore...we should be thankful to have it at all. It seems more geared toward suit purchase than the incidentals that we often pickup at Press when each new season's collection comes out.

Their shirts are nice, substantial fabric. They also stock Alan Paine sweaters.

My impression, just off the top of my head and as a total outsider...is that when Mr Jacobs retires, the shop would close. It doesn't seem like a place with a ton of inertia, but I could be mistaken, I don't buy a lot of suits myself. If Baltimore could support a place like this in perpetuity I think it'd have to become more of a 'destination' like O'Connell's...not necessarily as large, but it'd have to have more of its own personality.

Danny


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## A.Squire (Apr 5, 2006)

Danny said:


> Very small shop, good merchandise. ... *If Baltimore could support a place like this in perpetuity* I think it'd have to become more of a 'destination' like O'Connell's...not necessarily as large, but it'd have to have more of its own personality.
> 
> Danny


Danny, what do you mean by this? Perhaps the _perpetuity_ is throwing me, but how could Baltimore, pop ulation what?--300-500K not support a classic men's store when my small town 1/10th the sized supports two?


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## hangthree (Apr 16, 2005)

A.Squire said:


> Danny, what do you mean by this? Perhaps the _perpetuity_ is throwing me, but how could Baltimore, pop ulation what?--300-500K not support a classic men's store when my small town 1/10th the sized supports two?


My guess is that most people shop at Jos. Banks or maybe BB instead of Eddie Jacobs.


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## bd79cc (Dec 20, 2006)

Baltimore does seem a lot less Trad now than it did back in to 70's and 80's. But I do believe it will harbor an active Trad element well into perpetuity.


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## Harris (Jan 30, 2006)

A.Squire said:


> Danny, what do you mean by this? Perhaps the _perpetuity_ is throwing me, but how could Baltimore, pop ulation what?--300-500K not support a classic men's store when my small town 1/10th the sized supports two?


I'm wondering if other men's shops in Baltimore are doing well precisely because they've taken the route that so many shops--(including Mr. King's in Bristol?)--have taken: _updated_ traditional. I think Danny might here be thinking of shops (like O' Connell's, Eddie Jacobs, the once great Max's Men's Store, etc.) that cater to the 3b sack-and-plain front crowd. "Classic" is, as has been discussed ad infinitum, a huge umbrella under which many styles fit.


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## Danny (Mar 24, 2005)

Well Baltimore doesn't seem particularly trad to me and I grew up there. I know it was moreso back in the day, but not now. It's a blue collar town at heart. It does have a large population though and is near DC, but I've never been in Eddie Jacobs when there was anyone else in the store. But of course they've been there for years, so what do I know, maybe they're doing fine and are just the right size for their market. I just think that for ANY store to thrive into the future selling what is becoming essential a niche product, they would have to take advantage of the internet and really carve out a spot for themselves.

Danny


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## Tom Buchanan (Nov 7, 2005)

I think Danny and Harris are on the right track. Old timers have told me that there was a time when Eddie Jacobs was considered upscale. Probably like the Andover shop I would guess. But that was back when the high schools had dress codes, and before business casual. It was also before Alex Brown got taken over by Europeans. Eddie Jacobs also had Jos. A Bank, which was based in Baltimore, as competition. Banks used to be rather trad, offering 3/2 sacks and the staples. There were other stores like Finkelsteins and Marc Jacobs (which was not very trad) also competing that went under long ago. 

Jacobs is now owned by the son of the founder and a business partner. I would guess that they are probably just continuing on until retirement time.


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## bd79cc (Dec 20, 2006)

Danny said:


> _*It's a blue collar town at heart.*_


Very true, and probably why I like the place so much.


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## tripreed (Dec 8, 2005)

Regarding RNG, the guy at one of the men's stores in Birmingham told me that they were going to start carrying the RNG line soon, and touted it as basically a less expensive Southwick. It appears that Granger Owings out of Columbia, SC is offering by RNG. A sack is not listed as one of the options, but perhaps it is available.


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## Harris (Jan 30, 2006)

MacT said:


> A few weeks ago, after mentioning this shop as a possible source for Atkinson's Irish Poplin ties, I decided to check out their selection & check out the shop as a source for the mid-gray pinstripe sack suit I *need*.
> 
> They did not have the Atkinson's tie I was looking for-- a hunter green pattern that O'Connell's had, but which is now sold out-- kicking myself for not pulling the trigger on that one. Jacobs' in-stock selection is something taken in at a few glances. It is a small shop, after all, with just a couple-a-guys handling the walk-ins & their regulars over the phone. It's an unpretentious place that doesn't take long to browse if you're in the area.
> 
> ...


Thanks for this post. If/when you give one of the house label (RNG) suits a try, I think I speak for others in saying your feedback would be appreciated.


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## A.Squire (Apr 5, 2006)

tripreed said:


> Regarding RNG, the guy at one of the men's stores in Birmingham told me that they were going to start carrying the RNG line soon, and touted it as basically a less expensive Southwick. It appears that Granger Owings out of Columbia, SC is offering by RNG. A sack is not listed as one of the options, but perhaps it is available.


I would guess RNG suits are sellling two to one, or will be once word gets out, to a store's other budget suitings.

Pro's; 1) several models to choose from, including, and this I'm certain, a three button sack, perhaps even a two button, though don't quote me here. 2) Price point. Essentially MTM fit for RTW price. 3) Quality fabrics and pic stitched lapels if that's your thing.

Con's; 1) Made in Chile, but in what I believe to be a newly minted factory (I could be way off here as well, but for some reason I think it's a new, generously financed, facility) 2) Limited option check list. Subject to change I'm sure. 3) Price point product. I don't know if the last statment is fair. What I'm trying to say is that you're not exactly paying for a MTM Samuelshon and shouldn't expect one to be delivered.

I've seen the suits hanging and I've seen them in action. I don't wear the brand personally, but would if finances necessitated or I was looking for a suit that I didn't mind _wearing out_. I will say that it looks to be a good way to get into a new suit or a good way to get into a inexpensive suit that looks and _should _fit well.


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## MacT (Feb 16, 2008)

Glad to see so many informative responses. My in-laws are from Baltimore, and had a few reminiscences about EJ when I mentioned it at Easter brunch. My mother-in-law is a retired realtor, and Jacobs was the supplier for the blazers that the sales associates were expected to wear. 

Re RNG: my impression was that they are made for a price point, but that they are well-constructed. I'd try one, except that I'm set on going with Southwick. At this point in my life, may as well get the real deal, so the ball is rolling with Izzy at LS.


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## jamgood (Feb 8, 2006)

tripreed said:


> Regarding RNG, the guy at one of the men's stores in Birmingham told me that they were going to start carrying the RNG line soon, and touted it as basically a less expensive Southwick. It appears that Granger Owings out of Columbia, SC is offering by RNG. A sack is not listed as one of the options, but perhaps it is available.


RNG corporate, and Granger Owings, share the same street address. Don't believe ol' jg, check the innerweb.


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## The Louche (Jan 30, 2008)

Baltimore does have a "fake trad" element. There are some well-to-do business men that live in certain suburbs of Baltimore that tend to dress in a very conservative business-man mode. This doesn't really directly translate to sack suits though, more like the Brooks/JAB spin on American business dress (2B, darts, center vent, double reverse pleat suits, repp ties, button-down collars) These men have kids with shaggy hair that play lacrosse and wear khakis, Clarks Wallabees, and polo shirts. Close but no cigar - a modern bastardization of trad.

I'm from Annapolis and we had a wonderful trad-esque shop there for years called Johnson's. Again, it wasn't all sack suits, but it definitely leaned closer to trad than anything else. Sadly even Annapolis (which is very "preppy" - again, not trad but close) couldn't support this store.

I sadly think there are fewer and fewer men out there that even know what a 3/2 un-darted jacket is, let alone care too much. I'd put money down that you could go into a JAB, ask for a sack suit, and be met with a) "what exactly do you mean, sir?" or b) no attempt at understanding your question and a nod toward something totally different. And these people are in the business...


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## Mel (Dec 12, 2006)

Baltimore has a long standing "trad" community beginning with those that patronized Eddie Jacobs early on and other stores before that like Lowmeyer's. Having lived in Baltimore for a while anyone who goes to a party in Guilford,Homeland or in Gibson island would see trad alive and well. The best Country Clubs also demonstrate that trad is quite common.


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## djl (Feb 6, 2006)

jamgood said:


> RNG corporate, and Granger Owings, share the same street address. Don't believe ol' jg, check the innerweb.


And the domain for their is registered to Granger Owings.

As is the Haberdashery Group, which appears to put on trunk shows in NYC for a wide range of brands.


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## djl (Feb 6, 2006)

Harris said:


> Thanks for this post. If/when you give one of the house label (RNG) suits a try, I think I speak for others in saying your feedback would be appreciated.


Fresh out of undergrad in Columbia, SC, I bought one of Granger Owings' "starter sets," which included three RNG in-stock program suits. Two-button darted jackets, pleated pants (hard to know better in SC these days). After having them fine-tuned by my tailor in Columbia, they were great "workhorse" suits. Just about wore them out between working for a few years, then law school. Good, hearty fabric.


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## Palmer_Woodrow (May 24, 2007)

The Louche said:


> I'm from Annapolis and we had a wonderful trad-esque shop there for years called Johnson's. Again, it wasn't all sack suits, but it definitely leaned closer to trad than anything else. Sadly even Annapolis (which is very "preppy" - again, not trad but close) couldn't support this store.


Being a former customer with a house account at Johnson's, I was told by one of the employees that it was not the lack of business which closed Johnson's. They were having a very good sales history. It was the wishes of the husband of the owner, daughter of Mr. Johnson, who desired to close the store. The two grand-daughters of the founder have decided to continue the store as an on-line business.

https://www.johnsonsontheavenue.com/Fine-Clothing/index.cfm


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## MacT (Feb 16, 2008)

*HF Sack*

Recently picked up a (subtle) glen plaid from EJ recently, and think it's terrific. I was in the market for a gray plaid suit, and asked Eddie for swatches. He obliged with a medium-dark gray Southwick Douglas, and a dark gray (Oxford gray, not quite charcoal) H Freeman. Both were sharkskin weave with subtle light blue overcheck. Prices were identical, so the decision was on the merits: fit, features, construction. I'll admit I was leaning toward a darker base color, though.

I chose the HF, largely because it seems quite a bit better: full canvas & a more natural shoulder. There is even a bit of canvassing in the sleeve end. The HF coat has less padding, and as Eddie said, was narrower in the shoulders. My amateur seam-to-seam measurements confirmed a 1/2" difference from the Southwick Douglas I have. The point-to-point shoulder measurement was about a 3/4" difference. So, the HF coat fit more closely to the real shoulder contour than the Southwick. Depth of the armholes is about the same, I think. The Jacobs Freeman models are very similar to a Naturalaire (I believe built to similar specs as the Freemans for O'Connell's)

For the value-conscious, I'd say that this model fills the bill: about the same price as a full-price mid-line (Presstige) Press suit for about what you'd pay for a Pressidential on sale-- and, IMO, a bit better than either. A note to the sharkskin-wary: obnoxious shininess, as I found, does not define the genre (good thread here: https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?t=91996)

A few pictures might help, even if they are crummy (intended to show the weave, shoulder line, lapel roll), so here goes:


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

Mel said:


> Baltimore has a long standing "trad" community beginning with those that patronized Eddie Jacobs early on and other stores before that like Lowmeyer's. Having lived in Baltimore for a while anyone who goes to a party in Guilford,Homeland or in Gibson island would see trad alive and well. The best Country Clubs also demonstrate that trad is quite common.


I've lived in MD for nearly all my life until last year. I lived in Baltimore since college and Guilford the last few years I lived there. I have to say that "trad" is being misapplied here. Blazers and khakis does not a trad make! Other posters are spot on with the Joseph A. Bank characterization. From 500 feet, you might mistake JAB for Press, but not one on one at a cocktail party. There's a pail trace of wasp style, but GTH pants and madras have largely vanished.

I'd like to think Charm City could support its own Andover Shop and I'm glad Eddie Jacobs is there, but it's smaller than a 7-11! Small potatoes for a town that was mentioned in the Preppy Handbook alongside Grosse Pointe & Cambridge!


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## Palmer_Woodrow (May 24, 2007)

For a look at some of the Baltimore look, you might check out this link.

https://www.gastrochic.com/2009/fashion/wasps-what-they-really-wear/

If you have been to this location outside Baltimore, you will know it immediately. Clearly embroidered, madras pants and Nantucket Reds still live stong.

Same can be said about the classic clothing found at Hunt Cup.

https://shortwave5.smugmug.com/Stee...d-Hunt-Cup-2009/8056469_tDnzN#524783519_WkH6m

Or perhaps check out this article on the general race scene.

This is Baltimore today. Not 50+ years ago. Those three links show the social scene in 2009.

While Baltimore may not fit the "trad" look of 50+ years ago, it has a very classic and updated preppy style. We can't all live in the past, but Baltimore does live in the present and looks good doing it.

Custom made Needlepoint Cummerbunds made by a wife, mother or girlfriend are common. Ones bought at shops and made in Vietnam are not.

I might also add that you can live in Baltimore for 20 years and still not be from Baltimore. It is a very small and close town. Everyone knows everyone, and they take a while to warm up to someone who didn't grow up here, no matter where you bought your house or work.

As for Eddie Jacobs being the only shop in town. They are in fact not the only Southwick dealer in town, unless you are only looking at downtown, but hardly anyone shops downtown anymore, unless you work there. Southwick does not list every dealer in the Baltimore area on their website. There are quite a few shops on the outskirts of the city which will provide you with some very classic clothing, and I am not talking about Samuel Parker, which I no longer patronize after two trips there.

You can gauge Baltimore by the famous question they ask. "Where did you go to school?" They don't mean college, they mean high school. And if you are from Baltimore, you know why.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

I don't see much on those links. I guess the first guy on the first page has nantucket red colored shorts. There's a J.Crew at Towson Town Center now (or should I call it Towson Toggery?).

As much as we all love the turned up nose here, I still don't see any evidence that my neighbors of several decades were somehow congregating somewhere in sack suits and bright green pants. A lot of nicely dressed people having a great time, but the sophistication of trad dressing has largely departed to the point that there's no greater concentration in Baltimore than any other East Coast city of comparable size. 

I'm full of Baltimore pride, mind you (and not just for the ritzy part, but even the part you see down the end of your nose), but these days it's more Ace of Cakes than 19th Hole.


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## Tom Buchanan (Nov 7, 2005)

/\ Good post by Palmer. 

Eddie Jacobs is like walking back into time. Where else do they still have the old carbon copy style receipt machines? Even Press has had computers for a long time. I will never forget the scowl I received from Eddie Jacobs Jr. when I asked if their oxfords were unlined. It is a tiny shop though, and I am not sure how long it will last. Still not really worth much of a field trip though.

The Baltimore steeplechase scene is very old school also. The Salahi's would not go over there like they did at Gold cup. 

It will be interesting to see how things change. With old line companies like Black & Decker pulling out (after Alex Brown et al), the world will change for places like Baltimore also.

And lastly, I have been to Palmer's secret location. but it is not Baltimore.


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## rsmeyer (May 14, 2006)

Trip English said:


> I don't see much on those links. I guess the first guy on the first page has nantucket red colored shorts. There's a J.Crew at Towson Town Center now (or should I call it Towson Toggery?).
> 
> As much as we all love the turned up nose here, I still don't see any evidence that my neighbors of several decades were somehow congregating somewhere in sack suits and bright green pants. A lot of nicely dressed people having a great time, but the sophistication of trad dressing has largely departed to the point that there's no greater concentration in Baltimore than any other East Coast city of comparable size.
> 
> I'm full of Baltimore pride, mind you (and not just for the ritzy part, but even the part you see down the end of your nose), but these days it's more Ace of Cakes than 19th Hole.


The best dressed traditionally attired men I see are in the private city and country clubs of Boston, New York, Philadelphia, and Washington, along with the Maryland Club in Baltimore and several others.


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## Danny (Mar 24, 2005)

As a [mostly] lifelong Baltimorean I will definitely support the opinion that the trad element around here is scattered at best...but it is definitely here. This is mostly because this is a place with roots and history. Families have lived here for a long time and many people grow up here and stay....so there is a good amount of continuity to the culture.

But the fact remains that the classes of folks wearing trad gear are smaller than in many other big[er] cities. And these folks are a bit scattered around town. In fact I'd say the lifestyle of the city is a bit scattered, things are not all tied to downtown at all. I live in Baltimore County and have been to the Hunt Cup. Trad folks are definitely here and a lot of them live northwest of the city and in the northern part of the county. If you are in Ruxton, you will see people dressing like folks on this board.

But there is also a somewhat trad element in the city itself, anchored around the Johns Hopkins area [Roland Park, Guilford]. And also in Mt Washington.

EJ is cool. I don't seen why it should be any bigger than it is really. It's in a great location downtown.

Danny


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## Brooksfan (Jan 25, 2005)

Mac T:

That is a seriously good looking plaid suit. Do you have any idea of the approximate fabric weight? It looks like it could be worn almost year-round. Good luck with it and wear it in health.


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## MacT (Feb 16, 2008)

Brooksfan: Thanks, I like it a lot. Can't give you thread count or fabric weight, but comparing it to my other suits, I'd say you're right about the year-round wearability. Lighter than the flannels, and heavier than the summer gear. It's also comfortable to travel in & its travels well-- what I've read about sharkskin shedding wrinkles seems to be true.

My intentions in reviving this thread were to give some notice to the current H Freeman make, which is very good IMO. and provide some (I hope useful) comparison with Southwick. And, for those of you in the DC/Balt/NOVA area, I wanted to bring attention to a vendor who carries both makes-- you can try them on back-to-back & decide what you like. Moreover, the pricing seems fair, comparable to O'Connell's, and the quality of the goods meets or beats what you find at Brooks & Press. Anachronistic, yeah, but EJ is worth a second thought for TNSIL kit. 

As for the rest of it, I'm not originally from Baltimore or Maryland, don't belong to any clubs or the horsey set, and work in DC, so I'll abstain on those subjects.


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## rider (Jan 8, 2004)

Palmer_Woodrow said:


> For a look at some of the Baltimore look, you might check out this link.
> 
> https://www.gastrochic.com/2009/fashion/wasps-what-they-really-wear/
> 
> ...


Enjoying this small thread.....the last comment is so true. Even today, when I introduce myself and find that the person is from Baltimore, I'll say 'ah, Catonsville - St. Joe' right after my name.


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## rsmeyer (May 14, 2006)

The comment about "Where did you go to school?" applies equally to Philadelphia.


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## rsmeyer (May 14, 2006)

MacT said:


> Brooksfan: Thanks, I like it a lot. Can't give you thread count or fabric weight, but comparing it to my other suits, I'd say you're right about the year-round wearability. Lighter than the flannels, and heavier than the summer gear. It's also comfortable to travel in & its travels well-- what I've read about sharkskin shedding wrinkles seems to be true.
> 
> My intentions in reviving this thread were to give some notice to the current H Freeman make, which is very good IMO. and provide some (I hope useful) comparison with Southwick. And, for those of you in the DC/Balt/NOVA area, I wanted to bring attention to a vendor who carries both makes-- you can try them on back-to-back & decide what you like. Moreover, the pricing seems fair, comparable to O'Connell's, and the quality of the goods meets or beats what you find at Brooks & Press. Anachronistic, yeah, but EJ is worth a second thought for TNSIL kit.
> 
> As for the rest of it, I'm not originally from Baltimore or Maryland, don't belong to any clubs or the horsey set, and work in DC, so I'll abstain on those subjects.


I second the support for Eddie Jacobs-an authentic and tasteful shop. I like their crossed racquet logo ties.


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## Sir Cingle (Aug 22, 2009)

Since I've been in Baltimore the past few days, I visited Eddie Jacobs for the first time, and I decided to revive this old thread to put in a few more words about the place. As earlier posters have said, Eddie Jacobs is a small, unpretentious place with lots of nice stuff: Alan Paine sweaters; Southwick suits; a nice selection of dress shirts; Berle pants; &c. 

I picked up a couple of ties: a nice regimental and an emblematic with beer mugs on it. I also got an umbrella. All in all, the prices seem pretty good: the ties were in the $40-50 range, and are currently 20% off. That's in the Press price range, I think, and perhaps a bit cheaper.

The staff was friendly and helpful; they clearly appreciated my business. 

Like others, I heartily recommend Eddie Jacobs. I'll certainly head back to the store when I'm in Baltimore again. Right now, most stock is 20% off. So it'd be particularly worth the trip.


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## WouldaShoulda (Aug 5, 2009)

Palmer_Woodrow said:


> You can gauge Baltimore by the famous question they ask. "Where did you go to school?" They don't mean college, they mean high school. And if you are from Baltimore, you know why.


It's like counting tattoos in Ocean City that practically vanish by the time you get to Bethany Beach, De,. Or should I say "Downie Oh-shun??"


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## WouldaShoulda (Aug 5, 2009)

The Louche said:


> I'm from Annapolis and we had a wonderful trad-esque shop there for years called Johnson's. Again, it wasn't all sack suits, but it definitely leaned closer to trad than anything else. Sadly even Annapolis (which is very "preppy" - again, not trad but close) couldn't support this store.


That was a fun place. 

As other's mention I think it was a matter of will that closed it, not necessarily business.


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