# An Ode Upon the Chukka Boot



## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

We have "odes" to the lwb, the lhs, the bit loafer, the Albert slipper, and more, and I always enjoy them. But none to my favorite cold weather boot, the chukka. There's great variety among chukkas, from the humble desert boot, to the magnificent Alden shell models, to say nothing of the exquisite and sophisticated Northampton versions. So I'll kick it off with my little stable, l to r Alden, Peal (C&J), Alden, Quoddy:


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

I like 'em too! :thumbs-up:

Though at present the only true chukka boot I have is one purchased from Brooks perhaps 8 or so years ago. It's a very dark brown suede with a *great* Vibram sole and is leather lined. It was made by an anonymous New England private label maker and has all the things that were once great about American shoes. Start with a last that combines sporty elegance and outstanding comfort. A full, tear-drop shaped vamp with an elegant narrow waist and not overly broad heel. The three eyelets start about and inch or so from the top of the shaft. English chukkas have their eyelets begin at almost the very top. This is one instance where the American practice is significantly superior to Northampton's. So placing the eyelets gives the boot a sporty elegance that I find lacking in the English version, but more importantly, it places the laces over where the ankle flexes just above the instep. This is essential for delivering superior comfort.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

I was not a fan of Chukka Boots, but then came AAAC and the overwhelming motivation to buy provided by the pictorial examples offered by members, of their splendid footwear. My collection now includes Alden's unlined snuff suede, lady calf slip-on and six eyelet chukkas; RM Williams Kangaroo lace-up Craftsman boots, and, soon to be added, a (special make-up pair of Alden's sand suede chukkas, sporting Alden's version of a plantation crepe sole! It would appear that I've been converted and am now a fan of Chukka designs. 

Great idea for a thread, Rambler. Thanks for starting it!


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## Haffman (Oct 11, 2010)

My Chukka collection currently comprises six pairs, four of the Cheaney Jackie boot in various flavours, one Church's ?Ryder in dark brown, one Ferragamo in chocolate suede. 

The chukka is one of my favourites styles of footwear


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## Youthful Repp-robate (Sep 26, 2011)

I, too, really like them. I have probably the least impressive pair of any AAAC member, but they're also the most impressive shoes ever purchased for $11 on clearance at Old Navy.

I'd like a pair of the Alden cordovans -- they have all the wearability of a PTB, with a touch more savoir faire.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

I don't have any . . . yet. But as soon as I pry out some cash, I'm heading down to AE to snag a pair of their (sadly) discontinued Kanai's before they're all gone. Y'gotta love suede chukkas.


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## joenobody0 (Jun 30, 2009)

Youthful Repp-robate said:


> I'd like a pair of the Alden cordovans -- they have all the wearability of a PTB, with a touch more savoir faire.


I thought so a well, bought a pair, and now regret the choice. I, generally speaking, find the Barrie last to be a bad fit, and the two eyelet nature of the chukka makes the fit even worse. Also, the majority of the unattractive rippling I've ever seen on a shell shoe, has been on a chukka - suggesting the fit is bad for many others. There's something about the way the tongue attaches that really doesn't work on high insteps. This happens on the Alden monk strap as well.


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## Youthful Repp-robate (Sep 26, 2011)

joenobody0 said:


> I thought so a well, bought a pair, and now regret the choice. I, generally speaking, find the Barrie last to be a bad fit, and the two eyelet nature of the chukka makes the fit even worse. Also, the majority of the unattractive rippling I've ever seen on a shell shoe, has been on a chukka - suggesting the fit is bad for many others. There's something about the way the tongue attaches that really doesn't work on high insteps. This happens on the Alden monk strap as well.


Yeah, and I've said a difficult goodbye to a pair of Alden kudu chukkas NWOT in a consignment store in my normal size -- I think a half-size down might just do it, though.


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## joenobody0 (Jun 30, 2009)

Youthful Repp-robate said:


> Yeah, and I've said a difficult goodbye to a pair of Alden kudu chukkas NWOT in a consignment store in my normal size -- I think a half-size down might just do it, though.


It was smart to pass. I realize that the Barrie last is popular around these parts, but I think that's primarily due to the fact that the majority of Alden's best shoes are made on that last. Anatomically speaking, the Barrie last is oddly designed. It seems to be designed for feet with zero instep (hence the almost total lack of waist), enormous heel width, and relatively narrow forefoot. It is literally, the least "foot shaped" of all lasts offered by Alden. If a foot truely fits the Barrie last well (IMO I think a lot of people force it), I can't see many other lasts being comfortable for that person.

I guess that's my long way of telling you that the Barrie might not fit you in any size - keep that in mind before you drop thousands "trying to find your correct Barrie size", like I and many others have. Take everything I said about the Barrie last, and double it when it comes to the Chukka.


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## Uncle Bill (May 4, 2010)

I have two pairs of Chukka boots: first one a medium brown pair made of suede with crepe sole from Peal and Co. and other a pair of brown Redwing Beckmans.


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## Youthful Repp-robate (Sep 26, 2011)

joenobody0 said:


> It was smart to pass. I realize that the Barrie last is popular around these parts, but I think that's primarily due to the fact that the majority of Alden's best shoes are made on that last. Anatomically speaking, the Barrie last is oddly designed. It seems to be designed for feet with zero instep (hence the almost total lack of waist), enormous heel width, and relatively narrow forefoot. It is literally, the least "foot shaped" of all lasts offered by Alden. If a foot truely fits the Barrie last well (IMO I think a lot of people force it), I can't see many other lasts being comfortable for that person.
> 
> I guess that's my long way of telling you that the Barrie might not fit you in any size - keep that in mind before you drop thousands "trying to find your correct Barrie size", like I and many others have. Take everything I said about the Barrie last, and double it when it comes to the Chukka.


Ha! I don't have thousands to drop on food and shelter, much less shoes. Even when I have the cash for Aldens, I'll still be loath to part with it -- I'm be perfectly willing to spend the time to ensure that _any_ shoes I buy are a pretty good fit, even if it means spending quite a while trying them on.

Even then, thanks for the advice -- I may need restraint to draw upon when browsing ebay.


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## Barnavelt (Jul 31, 2012)

joenobody0 said:


> It was smart to pass. I realize that the Barrie last is popular around these parts, but I think that's primarily due to the fact that the majority of Alden's best shoes are made on that last. Anatomically speaking, the Barrie last is oddly designed. It seems to be designed for feet with zero instep (hence the almost total lack of waist), enormous heel width, and relatively narrow forefoot. It is literally, the least "foot shaped" of all lasts offered by Alden. If a foot truely fits the Barrie last well (IMO I think a lot of people force it), I can't see many other lasts being comfortable for that person.
> 
> I guess that's my long way of telling you that the Barrie might not fit you in any size - keep that in mind before you drop thousands "trying to find your correct Barrie size", like I and many others have. Take everything I said about the Barrie last, and double it when it comes to the Chukka.


My only Aldens are a pair of AWW in scotch grain calf. I feel lucky that the Berrie works with my foot, and to me they look great, rounded toe and all. That being said, my first shells will be PTB for many of the reasons you mention. I like chukkas but the lacing combined with the Berrie last would mean a fit too loose to give the cordovan a chance to mold to my foot, at least for me. Cordovan chukka guys; how does the cordovan mold to your feet compared to a PTB or LHS?


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## Topsider (Jul 9, 2005)

Rancourt has a nice collection of chukkas now.


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## Youthful Repp-robate (Sep 26, 2011)

Topsider said:


> Rancourt has a nice collection of chukkas now.


I like those -- they're like a Clarks Wallabee that was adopted by a family of penny loafers.


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## Langham (Nov 7, 2012)

*George boots*

A higher-cut variation of the chukka.


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

nice: built like a fine riding boot. Maker?


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

Nice collection, Rambler.

My collection includes Rancourt for Eastland honey suede with crepe sole (suede from Horween), Alden #8, unknown British maker in navy suede, AE pebble grain, AE brown leather, and Loake for Charles Tyrwhitt brown suede.


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## CMDC (Jan 31, 2009)

At some point I'm going to get a pair of AE Malverns in chocolate brown pebble grain.


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## Langham (Nov 7, 2012)

The Rambler said:


> nice: built like a fine riding boot. Maker?


Chukkas evolved from polo-playing in India, or so I have been told. No maker's name on the sock, although I understand Sanders & Sanders still make a similar style of boot.


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## Earl of Ormonde (Sep 5, 2008)

Now to be very technical Rambles old bean, there is only ONE pair of chukka boots in that photo.


Second from left. And even then, with 3-eyelets they're pushing the definition


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## Earl of Ormonde (Sep 5, 2008)

Also, a chukka boot is a chukka boot. A jodhpur is not a chukka, a desert boot is not a chukka.


A chukka boot has a specific cut, style, and details, a chukka boot isn't just any old short boot as some here clearly seem to think.

Chukka, desert, Chelsea and dealer are 4 specific types of short boot.

A chelsea boot with a toecap and brogueing is a dealer boot. A chukka with more than 2-eyelets is a desert boot. A suede chukka is a desert boot in very strict terms.


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## godan (Feb 10, 2010)

In the 1960's, students in Seattle wore two-eyelet Clarks Desert Boots as part of a virtual uniform that included jeans and Pendleton shirts. The term "chukka" was unknown to us - or at least to me. The incessant drizzle made maintaining the suede difficult, and black pennies were an alternative. The current Clarks Desert Boots, sourced in Asia, are flimsy imitations. Only the name is the same.


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

Ormonde, you are technically correct, if surprisingly pedantic. I may misremember, but I recall you making a spirited defense of language as evolving, not static. Nowadays the term is generally applied to any short plain toed boot, and even mocassin toed, at least by such authorities as Tom at LeatherSoul, Quoddy, Rancourt, and many others. Be that as it may, an excellent useful post. The thread could be called "Ode upon the short boot:" That's really what I had in mind.


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## Belfaborac (Aug 20, 2011)

I thought I had a pair of chukkas, but it seems I really don't. Still, not to worry. My non-chukka chukkas are a pair of Paraboot Medocs. Some of the most comfortable boots I've ever worn and the extra waterproofing of their Norwegian Welt construction comes in very handy at this time of year. I'd buy another pair in brown if only I could find one.


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## dorji (Feb 18, 2010)

Oh I can't stay away from a good Ode. I have been thinking of possible poems, but they all come out vulgar.
Alden Kudu Chukka, sno-sealed.


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

^ that's a great looking watchmacallit, Belf. Yours, too, Dorj. Both look ready for nasty weather.


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## Earl of Ormonde (Sep 5, 2008)

The Rambler said:


> pedantic.


Who, sir? Me, sir? Yes sir! 

Language evolves as needed. New words found. Old words redefined
However using one word for several things, when those several things already have perfectly good names is simply laziness 

Yes sir, you sir, laziness I tell you! What!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Topsider said:


> Rancourt has a nice collection of chukkas now.


Newish from Rancourt -


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## Belfaborac (Aug 20, 2011)

Those last ones are lovely (won't comment on the other ones...), but the lacing looks a bit...peculiar. Maybe it's just me, but I'd have preferred another pair of holes or a higher placement of the two pairs they've got.


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## Langham (Nov 7, 2012)

Here is Crockett & Jones chukka:

https://www.crockettandjones.com/Product/Tetbury-Darkbrown#.UM-gNY6SMRkI feel they have elongated the toe to the point of becoming ridiculous.


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

Yes, I think so, too, that link also leads to a very nice model called Chiltern, which C&J calls "a classic chukka" despite its 3 eye, suede design :icon_smile_wink:


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Langham said:


> Here is Crockett & Jones chukka:
> 
> https://www.crockettandjones.com/Product/Tetbury-Darkbrown#.UM-gNY6SMRkI feel they have elongated the toe to the point of becoming ridiculous.


I agree, and the eyelet placement illustrates the point I made earlier: The eyelets of the second Rancourt boot are perhaps slightly too low on the instep, but the American practice of placing the laces at the top of the instep on chukkas rather than at the top of the shaft is a rare instance where the American practice is, IMHO, superior. It results in both perfect comfort and a secure fit.


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## Topsider (Jul 9, 2005)

Youthful Repp-robate said:


> I like those -- they're like a Clarks Wallabee that was adopted by a family of penny loafers.


They have a camp moc sole, too. I am seriously considering a pair.


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## Topsider (Jul 9, 2005)

And, FWIW, desert books are chukkas. The crepe sole is the distinguishing feature of the desert boot.


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## Youthful Repp-robate (Sep 26, 2011)

Topsider said:


> They have a camp moc sole, too. I am seriously considering a pair.


Let us know what you think if you do.

Also, I agree that my understanding of terms relating to chukka boots are different to EoO's -- I thought a chukka was a two-or-three eyelet ankle boot with a particular style of quarter, and that a desert boot was a lightly-constructed crepe sole chukka. I do have to thank you, Earl, for introducing me to the term "dealer boot" for a brogued chelsea -- I didn't know they had a particular name, even though I'm starting to think they're really cool shoes.


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## geologic (Oct 6, 2010)

CMDC said:


> At some point I'm going to get a pair of AE Malverns in chocolate brown pebble grain.


Do it now. They're on clearance, which does not sound like it bodes well for their future.

Allen Edmonds
I just got a pair a month or two back, and they are great, but the customer reviews were right that they seem a bit short and narrow, compared to my Leeds, which are nominally on the same last. I sized up a half size and don't regret it.


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