# Taking in Shoulders on Suit



## Frankhuang92 (Jul 18, 2012)

Hi,

I inherited a mtm bespoke suit from my uncle. Fits well everywhere but the shoulders were not as I would have liked. I was too excited to get this suit into wearable sizing, so I took it to a nearby Vietnamese tailoring location without a second thought. By no means is this a high-end tailoring establishment, although it had commendable reviews online.

I came home and did some more research on shoulder adjustments and it seems like it isn't a good idea unless the tailor is extremely talented. I was only taking about half an inch off each shoulder, and the lady didn't hesitate twice when I asked if she was able to take in the shoulders.

Do you guys think I should call in and cancel the adjustment? The quote was $30 for the shoulders and $20 for taking in the sides. I'd rather spend more on a more qualified tailor than ruin this suit.

Here is the tailor: https://www.yelp.com/biz/tailoring-express-san-diego

The suit is a fully canvassed 38S Tom James Filo A'Mano 2btn.


----------



## Buffalo (Nov 19, 2003)

Taking in the shoulders for $30 is too good to be true. This is a more complicated tailoring procedure which requires the services of an experienced tailor and be prepared to pay significantly more than $30.


----------



## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Doesn't sound like enough money to do the job right. I'd search around until you find some old guy who knows how to make suits, and then pay him what he requires to do it right.


----------



## RM Bantista (May 30, 2009)

Sir,
What the other Gentlemen have said, but with a caviat, which is this: the lady at the counter is not the tailor, the shop may be trying to build their brand by low price and quick turn-around of work orders, the low cost for a new customers may be recouped with return visits and recommendations, and there is no reason to think that a tailor from Vietnam may not be well qualified to do the work. Additionally, it is possibly too late in the process to do anything but wait for the result and that may be a surprise of good performance, we cannot know, but they turn things around for their customers very promptly. Most likely that the shop has turned the project over to their most experienced person, who may be very skilled.
In my own experience, one may not know how well a tailor may perform based on the price quoted for the given task. Knowledge, skill, and ability are not always evident from the presentation of the exterior nor the price alone, particularly in the case of a first order. One has had very good experience with a local tailor who was modest in his charges and completely capable of fulfilling any request and is certainly able to make a suit or dress or make any alterations to an existing garment that are possible at reasonable cost.
He's so good that one recommends my employers to go there for alterations and finishing to their new items as may be necessary. He will also only do work that is mandated by the fit of the item for the person and not otherwise. A bit of integrity goes a long way in a shopkeeper.
But as stipulated, this is not entirely a simple operation, and one may pay a good deal more for less at some shops. That is not necessarily an indicator of quality though. Should you wish to withdraw the order, it may be already in progress. If not, where else would you take the item? Without a known good alternative, it may be best to let them complete their contract with you. Should they fail to produce the required result, that is another discussion, but we are not there yet. One understands completely your concern. But tailors from other places may be completely capable and well trained and may save one hundreds of dollars in charges and extra work than may be available elsewhere. Just saying.
Your mileage may vary, and good fortune to you and to other Gentlemen who have responded with whom one does not disagree,
rudy


----------



## Frankhuang92 (Jul 18, 2012)

The lady at the front was also the one who pinned the jacket for sizing. I think I will let this transaction ride out and just hope for the best.


----------



## paul winston (Jun 3, 2006)

Until you see the work it is unfair to judge it. An individual tailor working from his home can make a suit for less than I charge to make a suit- I have overhead and employees that add to the cost. The same can be true for someone doing alterations. There are two ways to narrow shoulders. They can be narrowed by removing the sleeves and making the reduction at the shoulder points. If they are doing that and charging $30 I would like to hire them. If the suit is a solid color and the shoulders only require a small reduction it can be done by pinching the collar. This is much less time consuming- hence a lot less expensive.


----------



## Frankhuang92 (Jul 18, 2012)

Picked up my jacket from the tailor today. I cannot say that I am unsatisfied or disappointed with the result. Although the shoulders are remedied, I now realize it was actually the low armholes that I did not appreciate. The jacket still seems boxy to me and credit is probably due to the armscye.

The shoulders were taken in about 3/4 inch on each side. I am afraid I do not have a pre-alternation photo for juxtaposition but nonetheless, here are some snapshots of the end result:


----------



## RM Bantista (May 30, 2009)

So, it would seem they have done as well as may be possible under the circumstances of the order. Looks quite smart on you. You won't find many here who would disagree with your assessment that low armholes are less desirable than a higher cut rounder sleeve opening, but you will look long and never find one these days.
Thanks for sharing.
rudy


----------



## mikeh (Feb 18, 2011)

Can you tell which of the two methods Paul Winston mentioned they used? I had forgotten about pinching the collar (my tailor shudders at the idea) and so I've always considered it financially impractical to have him recut the shoulders most of the time.


----------



## triklops55 (May 14, 2010)

I go to a Vietnamese tailor that is pretty skilled. His prices are extremely affordable. He can make suits, so an alteration is no big deal to him.
Anyway, the only advice I would give you, or anyone else visiting a tailor, is to try to speak to the person who will be making the alterations. Make sure they understand what you want and what you don't want. Ask them how they will go about achieving the results. If you do those things, you'll probably be OK despite a low cost.


----------



## Frankhuang92 (Jul 18, 2012)

mikeh said:


> Can you tell which of the two methods Paul Winston mentioned they used? I had forgotten about pinching the collar (my tailor shudders at the idea) and so I've always considered it financially impractical to have him recut the shoulders most of the time.


I am almost certain the tailor pinched the shoulders instead of recutting.


----------



## Orsini (Apr 24, 2007)

Go back and liberate it right now. 

And that price is too low.


----------



## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

The shoulders look pretty good. Too bad nothing can be done about the lapels. Lapels like those (popular in the late 80s) typically went along with wide, padded shoulders. The way the shoulders were originally was probably the way this jacket was intended to fit. But I'm sure it looks much better now.


----------

