# Shortening the rise of pants



## antirabbit (Mar 17, 2005)

Is this possible?
Complex?
Expensive?


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## markdc (May 17, 2007)

antirabbit said:


> Is this possible?
> Complex?
> Expensive?


i've wondered about this this myself.


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## red96 (Jun 26, 2007)

I've had it done on a couple of pairs of pants. My tailor doesn't really break down his charges when I get something tailored so I have no sense of whether it's expensive or not. He usually tells me if something is going to be a lot of work /money and he certainly didn't argue - other than to tell me that if I wore my pants at the proper (read - at your true waist) level that I wouldn't need it done!


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## jsprowls9 (Jun 24, 2005)

It's pretty expensive as far as alterations go - a lot of parts converge on the waistband.

In most cases, the side seams need to be recut in order to suppress the waist back onto the waistband. The problem is how the pockets and darts are set. This limits what can be done.

Based on my old rate charts, this re-styling of the garment is about 2/3 the cost of a ground-up custom made trouser. It's in your best interest to speak - in person - with a local tailor to assess if this approach is going to work for you.

How much shallower do you need the rise to be?


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## Flaoutlet (Nov 13, 2006)

Besides shortening the rise from where the pant meets the waistband (I guess possible, but I have never seen it) You can reduce the rise at the crotch. A tailor would take in fabric on the seam running up the inside of each pant leg, which then meet at the top in the crotch. He takes it in up at the crotch, feathering it as he works down (3 to 4" down the inside of the leg). To reduce the rise 3/4 to 1" this works good. But, you must keep in mind that it reduces the pant at the top of the leg, or the thigh. If it is not loose in this area, it is better not to try this method. A good tailor can look at the pant and give you a better idea if it would help.

TM


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## zegnamtl (Apr 19, 2005)

antirabbit said:


> Is this possible?
> Complex?
> Expensive?


My alterations tailor charges 75 dollars to remove pleats and lower the rise.
Most have been very successful, one pair feel a touch odd when I wear them, having gone from double pleat and a bit long on the rise to flat and medium rise.


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## zarathustra (Aug 24, 2006)

Ye sit is possible. i do it frequently -- as my body is not proportionate. (long torso, short Scottish legs) the really long rise of many trad brands just don't work for me.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

yes it takes a deal of time [time is money]. shorten from the top is usually done no more than one inch. more than that the side pockets must be moved bringing the price higher. after shortening the back pockets are closer to the belt. also the fly is shorter. this cant be helped, moving the fly down a bit will raise the price still more. there is no way to move the back pockets.


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## antirabbit (Mar 17, 2005)

If I can reduce the length, by say an inch or so from the crotch, it is really the crotch that bothers me, where I have the pants sitting on my waist/belly, is ok, its the crotch.
I have chicken legs, so actually a reduction in the thigh is acually desireable.
How much would one think this might run?
I am assuming that this would be a much less complex and inexpensive way of shortening the rise?


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## Flaoutlet (Nov 13, 2006)

antirabbit said:


> If I can reduce the length, by say an inch or so from the crotch, it is really the crotch that bothers me, where I have the pants sitting on my waist/belly, is ok, its the crotch.
> I have chicken legs, so actually a reduction in the thigh is acually desireable.
> How much would one think this might run?
> I am assuming that this would be a much less complex and inexpensive way of shortening the rise?


shortening the stride/rise from the crotch is not an expensive alteration. you should also know that when you shorten a pant rise at the waist, the difference will be felt in the rise/crotch. the pant will still sit at the same spot on the waist. also, by moving the seat/legs "up", you will also effectvely narrow the thigh a little.

tm
(typing w/a one year old in hand...no caps:icon_smile: )


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## Cruiser (Jul 21, 2006)

Flaoutlet said:


> You can reduce the rise at the crotch.


I have this done on all of my "tailored" pants. I would do it on my khakis also if it were practical. This is needed because I wear my pants a little lower than they were probably made to be worn. The tailor takes them in in the seat and crotch. I don't know the exact amount he charges because he is usually hemming them and adjusting the waist also, but it isn't much.


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## comrade (May 26, 2005)

I've had it done numerous times. Not always successfully. 
A superior tailor is a requsite. Otherwise trousers can be
ruined.I have long legs but have been told that I am 
"short waisted". I wear a 43 or 44 Regular suit. 
I wear a 9 1/2- to 10 1/2 rise in a 35"
waist touser. It helps to purchase trousers that have
lowish rises, say 11" because alterations are easier.
I dress semi trad a la Paul Stuart. In suits this means that 
I either do special order or subject the pants to major 
surgery as trad pants tend to have longer rises.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

shorten the rise at the bottom? what do they do with the empty space? where do they get the extra fabric to make the bottom of the rise come up?
what is really being done is that the thigh/crotch is being taken in. the rise is not changed. the crotch and seat have been made snugger giving the illusion of a shorter rise. in this case the vertical measure is still the same. measure your trousers before and after. you cant change a vertical measure with a horizontal alteration. if taking in like that is satisfactory then thats fine. but do not be fooled that the rise is shortened in that way.


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## Martin Stall (Sep 11, 2006)

I agree with Alex. There is no cloth in the crotch, and it can't be added. Taking in the inseem might win a slight bit, but really all you're doing is reducing the diameter of the trousers. Can lead to a very messy result if done indiscriminately.


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## antirabbit (Mar 17, 2005)

I will most likely also want the legs to have a bit of a taper from the knees down as well, which I assume is very easy to do.
Taking fabric out of the crotch, with out shortening the rise, may work. I have no butt, or rather not much of one, so the extra fabric in the crotch and buttocks is just that, extra, which is not the cleanest look.
They are Oxxford pants, which, I love the fit in the waist and in the thighs, just the two issues I have described are preventing these 5 pairs of pants from being spectacular.
Alex, you are really retired?


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

antirabbit said:


> I will most likely also want the legs to have a bit of a taper from the knees down as well, which I assume is very easy to do.
> Taking fabric out of the crotch, with out shortening the rise, may work. I have no butt, or rather not much of one, so the extra fabric in the crotch and buttocks is just that, extra, which is not the cleanest look.
> They are Oxxford pants, which, I love the fit in the waist and in the thighs, just the two issues I have described are preventing these 5 pairs of pants from being spectacular.
> Alex, you are really retired?


yes i am retired. not that i am happy with that. at the moment i am just working part time as a fitter. that way i dont need to sew. in 4 months i will be 80 and my hands are not what they use to be. the work i do for myself and family is done very slowly and rather painfully. the worth of a tailor is in his eyes and hands. right now i talk more than do.


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## zegnamtl (Apr 19, 2005)

a tailor said:


> ...... in 4 months i will be 80 and my hands are not what they use to be. the work i do for myself and family is done very slowly and rather painfully. the worth of a tailor is in his eyes and hands. right now i talk more than do.


Alex,

I watched your face as we toured the Oxxford shop together.
You had fire in eyes and passion in your laugh!
At 80, the light burns bright still. I hope I am in as good shape as you, with such passion for what I love, as you showed that day!


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## jsprowls9 (Jun 24, 2005)

a tailor said:


> shorten the rise at the bottom? what do they do with the empty space? where do they get the extra fabric to make the bottom of the rise come up?





Martin Stall said:


> I agree with Alex. There is no cloth in the crotch, and it can't be added.


*Giggle*

I had to chime in, again.

It's easy to overlook the spatial relationship. Reducing a circumference or crutch requires adding to the perimeter. But, that's not what's needed, here. Reducing the crutch would make the trousers tighter, leaving now room for the torso or genitals. Besides, as Alex and Marin point out: there's no way to add fabric.

The objective of this alteration is to reduce the length of the rise. The crutch and inseam remains constant, the waist moves down the body by reducing the depth/length of the rise.

Shortening the "stride" is really shortening the length of one of the crutch forks. This alteration is for a flat derriere or a narrow upper thigh. It is not a solution for issues with the rise. This alteration is done at the back inner seam and is limited to + 1/4" or - 1/2". Anything other means you should move to another size and adjust the CB waist.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

antirabbit said:


> I will most likely also want the legs to have a bit of a taper from the knees down as well, which I assume is very easy to do.
> Taking fabric out of the crotch, with out shortening the rise, may work. I have no butt, or rather not much of one, so the extra fabric in the crotch and buttocks is just that, extra, which is not the cleanest look.
> They are Oxxford pants, which, I love the fit in the waist and in the thighs, just the two issues I have described are preventing these 5 pairs of pants from being spectacular.
> Alex, you are really retired?


sorry man i ignored your question. so heres a suggestion.
tackle the problem from the other direction.
have you ever noticed the extra cloth at the center back of the trouser waist?
its there for a good reason. its used to increase the waist measure.
try picking out a trouser that fits in the seat even if the waist is a couple of inches too small. then have the waist let out to fit. two inches is usually the limit to let out.
also the cost to let out the waist is less than taking in the seat and crotch.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

why are you so antirabit?what did those poor little guys do to you?


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