# Alden Shell with Suits



## Odin (Nov 25, 2010)

New guy here. This forum is a wealth of information and has inspired me to refocus on what's important in a wardrobe. I came here initially because I am planning on buying my first pair of Alden shell cordovans. This is the best place on the web to learn about that subject. 

In particular, I am seeking advice about best options to wear with a suit. I work in NYC and wear a suit 4 days a week. I normally wear bals or AE Graysons with suits.

I am considering the following LWB, LHS, Tassels, and Full Straps. All are beautiful but each has its drawbacks for my purposes. I feel that LWB's and LHS's are casual and best paired with chinos or slacks (my Friday garb). I already have 2 pairs of calf tassels and really want to add the Alden 666 as well. 4 pairs of tassels would be a lot. I find the Full Straps too low profile for a suit.

I am happy to pick up a Friday shoe but I'm looking for the most versitle option for my collection. Does anyone pair any of these with a suit regularly? I'm hoping you guys can help. Sorry for the long post.


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## WillBr (Dec 15, 2009)

Welcome. Can you expand a bit on what you mean by "low profile"? I wear the Alden full straps in #8 and black shell at least three days a week with a suit. I'm in finance (and personally anti tassel) and find them to be nearly perfect. Getting them to fit properly is the trick...


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## Anon 18th Cent. (Oct 27, 2008)

Look at the Brooks Brothers shell LWB. (Alden makes the shell shoes that BB sells.) They are made on the plaza last, so I don't think they look casual. I recommend tie shoes, both to round out what you own, and because they look good with a suit. Be sure to look at the picture of the burgundy shoes; I think it gives a better representation of what the shoes look like.

https://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCa...LACK&sort_by=&sectioncolor=&sectionsize=#null


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

I know I'm in the minority here, but I tend not to wear shell with suits--except casual, "Friday" suits. More formal suits need a bal, IMO, and I think bals work better in calf than shell. The larger ripples that shell develops make it a more casual leather, and therefore it works better for loafers and casual bluchers (LWBs, PTBs). I don't own any shell bals, and I doubt I will unless I pick some up for wet weather.


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## WillBr (Dec 15, 2009)

E - do you own those shoes? How do you feel about the matched agatine eyelits?

I've looked at those shoes hundreds of (um, ok, 37) times, but haven't been able to get my head around the eyelits.


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

This _is_ the shell forum, no point in fighting it, particularly because we have some posters who are brilliant at bringing out the very best in shell, by brushing their butts off. For a slightly different point of view, there is the guy at ASW, who recommends owning a couple of pairs for wet cold weather.:devil:


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## Dripp (Nov 11, 2005)

I vote the LWB - I wear both my black and whiskey LWBs with suits regularly, including black today. The beauty of them is that you can wear them both with casual and with suits - they're quite versatile. I think in #8 they'd be perfect.


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## Wisco (Dec 3, 2009)

Orgetorix said:


> I know I'm in the minority here, but I tend not to wear shell with suits--except casual, "Friday" suits. More formal suits need a bal, IMO, and I think bals work better in calf than shell. The larger ripples that shell develops make it a more casual leather, and therefore it works better for loafers and casual bluchers (LWBs, PTBs). I don't own any shell bals, and I doubt I will unless I pick some up for wet weather.


Orgetorix hit it on the head. A great visual of the "visual ripples", courtesy LeatherSoul (Tom's LHS):

Not as pronounced in the NST or PTB, but still evident:

Don't get me wrong; I own several shell shoes and love them. I just don't believe they are formal enough for a "full suits and boots" look. The only exception may be a LWB which has enough detailing to take away from the natural visual of broken in shell. But any kind of brogue work is also less formal so it may not matter to you...


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

^ Compare that to fine-quality calf, which, when kept on well-fitting trees (preferably lasted ones), can look virtually uncreased after several years of wear.


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## Odin (Nov 25, 2010)

Guys, thanks for the input.

Will - I'm generally not a loafer + suit wearer except for tassels which I feel hold up well to the formality of a suit (I know this is debatable). I have friends who wear the full strap with suits and make it work and one friend who is pushing me to make that my first purchase. My personal opinion is that they are somehow not substantial enough. I don't know.

Edwin - I appreciate the suggestion but I have to agree with Will on the eyelits.

Orgetorix - I hear you. Ultimately, I might wind up wearing calf 4 days a week and shell on Fridays. I'm fine with that.

Wisco/Dripp - LWB might be the play. Agree #8 for the first pair.


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## Reptilicus (Dec 14, 2004)

It is my understanding, although I cannot remember from where, that Shell is slightly less dressy or more casual than its calf counterpart. That said, part of Trad dressing is a certain casual comfort. No one will look at you in shell togs and mistake you for the Domino's guy. The look of shell in unmistakeable and unless you are going black tie, shell is always appropriate. Look at Tom's LHS in the above photo. Doesn't get any better than that does it?


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## Saltydog (Nov 3, 2007)

Orgetorix said:


> I know I'm in the minority here, but I tend not to wear shell with suits--except casual, "Friday" suits. More formal suits need a bal, IMO, and I think bals work better in calf than shell. The larger ripples that shell develops make it a more casual leather, and therefore it works better for loafers and casual bluchers (LWBs, PTBs). I don't own any shell bals, and I doubt I will unless I pick some up for wet weather.


Not all will agree, but I think Orgetorix makes some valid points here. I love my shells, but unless you get just the right shoe for the purpose of being sleek enough for a suit and are prepared and committed to putting in a disproportionate amount of time and effort (compared to calf) to keep them looking polished enough shell is probably not the best for wear with a suit. On the other hands, few shoes are more beautiful than a great looking pair of shells that are properly polished and cared for. All you have to do is look at Uncle's pics. But they take a lot of work to look their very best.

Given that caveat, I would go with tassels or full strap for wear with a suit. Some also won't wear loafers with a suit--but IMO most shell lace ups are a bit "clunkly" for suit wear. I must also confess, with all due deferrence to those who are, that I am just not a LWB guy regardless of the material.


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

the following shell styles work very well with suits:
1-cap toes
2-lwb
3-wt
4-ptb
5-nst
6-tassels


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

As a guy who usually wears a suit, I must (all kidding aside) agree with Uncle. Why wouldn't shell look right with a suit?


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## phyrpowr (Aug 30, 2009)

The LWB has been *the *banker/lawyer go-to here in the South forever, and in #8 goes with a wide variety of colors. It was only upon joining this forum that I found out it was considered a "casual", what with brouging and bluchering and all.

We're also very big on tassels.


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## Dr. D (Nov 19, 2010)

I'm new here as well (although I have been lurking and reading all of the great info here for a few weeks now) and I might offer another possibility: go with the brown shell Strand from Allen Edmonds. It's a very rich brown (the same color as the Polo Darltons, which many folks here love) and the captoe bals are suitable for a gray or blue suit yet versatile enough that they could be dressed down with slacks or khakis. It's not an Alden but I think it meets your goals and you could then aim to get a "Friday" pair of Aldens like LWB later.



-Jerry


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## Epaminondas (Oct 19, 2009)

phyrpowr said:


> The LWB has been *the *banker/lawyer go-to here in the South forever, and in #8 goes with a wide variety of colors. It was only upon joining this forum that I found out it was considered a "casual", what with brouging and bluchering and all.
> 
> We're also very big on tassels.


I have never in my life seen a lawyer in Atlanta wearing LWBs at the office (and I never noticed them on my visits to firms in Richmond, VA, Knoxville, TN, Birmingham, AL, or Charlotte NC, for that matter - you're not talking about PI attorneys are you?). To the extent they wear wing-tip style shoes, they tend to be mid-wing, balmoral style and have narrower heels. I would go with tassels or cap toes as the lawyer "go-to" shoe.

I own LWBs for casual wear, but when worn with suits, they bring to my mind a kind of IBM/Xerox, middle-management engineer-type, circa. 1960 - not desireable, IMHO.


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## swb120 (Aug 9, 2005)

I wear a suit every day, and wear mostly calf, but love my BB-Alden wingtips in black shell and #8 (though I don't care for longwings), and my #8 NST, which I think look terrific with suits. There are only so many days in a week that you can wear captoes, after all.


I agree that loafers are too casual to wear with suits - I break out my Alden LHS's or RL Darlton shell loafers for church on Sunday or other similarly casual occasions. For work, however, I think shell is absolutely appropriate. I look forward to adding to my shell collection - captoes, captoes with brogueing - and wearing them proudly to work.


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## tlocke (Jan 9, 2010)

Agree that the AE Strand in walnut is a terrific brown shoe for a suit. Among the options in shell for suits I prefer tassel loafers and cap toes in #8 or black. I would not choose LHS for most suits and save those for sport coats/slacks and blazer/slacks combos. The full strap loafer is sleek enough to look well with a suit. I personally find them uncomfortable on my foot.


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## WillBr (Dec 15, 2009)

The LWBs are not worn professionally in NYC, and they weren't worn casually until J Crew began selling them.


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

WillBr said:


> The LWBs are not worn professionally in NYC, and they weren't worn casually until J Crew began selling them.


welcome to the forum
fyi-bb in the 1950's and 1960's sold both calf and shell lwb. in addition in the custom suit department the mannequin wore cap toes, lwb and tassels


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Saltydog said:


> Not all will agree, but I think Orgetorix makes some valid points here. I love my shells, but unless you get just the right shoe for the purpose of being sleek enough for a suit and are prepared and committed to putting in a disproportionate amount of time and effort (compared to calf) to keep them looking polished enough shell is probably not the best for wear with a suit. On the other hands, few shoes are more beautiful than a great looking pair of shells that are properly polished and cared for. All you have to do is look at Uncle's pics. But they take a lot of work to look their very best.


Actually, I've found my shell cord shoes require less effort to maintain that pristine appearance, than do my calfskin options. Vigorous brushing before and after each wearing is all that is required! This is generally accomplished as I watch the 2200 hours newscast, just prior to turning in for the night.


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## WillBr (Dec 15, 2009)

mcarthur said:


> welcome to the forum
> fyi-bb in the 1950's and 1960's sold both calf and shell lwb. in addition in the custom suit department the mannequin wore cap toes, lwb and tassels


Thanks, and that's a great point...I should have clarified the time frame.

As an aside, I often feel as though I'm the only one carrying the torch for the WT. I've always loved them, and have a vivid memory of being a little boy, probably 6 or 7, at BB with my dad when he listed a few professions where they would be appropriate. Grammar school unfortunately wasn't on the list, but I still have the burgundy calf pair that I bought in '95 as an undergrad.

Anyway, I often receive comments (mostly positive) on my WTs (#8 shell and black calf) from men and women.


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

This thread has sort of moved from the appropriatness of shell with suits to the appropriatness of lwbs. To me, it's more a matter of the double, gunboat sole on most wingtips. A pair of "city wingtips" with the sleeker single sole - they usually come in the short wing version - is a good choice for the suit-wearing wingtip lover. I'm not being dogmatic, I hope, but the double-soled, heavily brogued models do recall thir heritage as country shoes, where the little holes went all the way through to allow bogwater to drain out.


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## EastVillageTrad (May 12, 2006)

I will take this another way;

Some of the most conservative dressers I know in the business/law area in NYC, in the most conservative 'preppy' and 'clubby' atmosphere ONLY wear loafers/LHS shell, etc. with suits, etc.


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

At the Philly Union League for lunch yesterday, I noticed that Alden-type tassels were a top choice among the dark-suited bankers and lawyers.


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

EastVillageTrad said:


> I will take this another way;
> 
> Some of the most conservative dressers I know in the business/law area in NYC, in the most conservative 'preppy' and 'clubby' atmosphere ONLY wear loafers/LHS shell, etc. with suits, etc.





The Rambler said:


> At the Philly Union League for lunch yesterday, I noticed that Alden-type tassels were a top choice among the dark-suited bankers and lawyers.


Philistines and barbarians, all of 'em.


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

:icon_smile_big:


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

WillBr said:


> Thanks, and that's a great point...I should have clarified the time frame.
> 
> As an aside, I often feel as though I'm the only one carrying the torch for the WT. I've always loved them, and have a vivid memory of being a little boy, probably 6 or 7, at BB with my dad when he listed a few professions where they would be appropriate. Grammar school unfortunately wasn't on the list, but I still have the burgundy calf pair that I bought in '95 as an undergrad.
> 
> Anyway, I often receive comments (mostly positive) on my WTs (#8 shell and black calf) from men and women.


i like wts and i wear color 8 and black with suits


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## eyedoc2180 (Nov 19, 2006)

What a great thread! The OP's consideration is shared here, and the debate is helpful. I've got Alden tassels and AE Graysons that I am weary of wearing with suits. Alden perf-tip bals are going to be IT, with a trip to the Alden store in NYC. I lack the much-needed tie-ups, and I agree that calf is the way for the go-to pair.


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## Barrister & Solicitor (Jan 10, 2007)

Here's my take on it.

I own shell and calf tassels. I've worn my shell AE Graysons with suits before.

I own shell and calf LWB. I have the AE MacNeil and Florsheim Imperials (with V-cleat) in shell. I also have a black AE MacNeil in calf. I wear all of them with suits.

Funny thing is, earlier this week I wore my Imperials, and twice that day, people remarked and commented (positively) on my shoes.

Yes, they are a substantial shoe. Yes, they go "clack, clack, clack" when I walk. They are very serious business shoes, as far as I'm concerned.


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## Odin (Nov 25, 2010)

Update on search: I just picked up a pair of AE Burgandy Shell Graysons on eBay (yes, my 3rd pair of Graysons). I believe these look great with some of my suits and they were a great deal ($70 shipped!). Two rounds of the Mac Procedure and they're coming to life.

I now feel a lot better about buying Alden's for "casual Friday" wear and perhaps the occasional suit wear. My search has narrowed to LWB's and LHS's both in #8. Monk Straps look good too but maybe down the line. Next stop Madison Ave.


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

Odin said:


> Update on search: I just picked up a pair of AE Burgandy Shell Graysons on eBay (yes, my 3rd pair of Graysons). I believe these look great with some of my suits and they were a great deal ($70 shipped!). Two rounds of the Mac Procedure and they're coming to life.
> 
> I now feel a lot better about buying Alden's for "casual Friday" wear and perhaps the occasional suit wear. My search has narrowed to LWB's and LHS's both in #8. Monk Straps look good too but maybe down the line. Next stop Madison Ave.


an hour away in norwalk, ct is shoemart. very extensive inventoy of both aldens and ae


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## CaptCrunch (Dec 8, 2007)

I rotate black shell cap toes and a #8 traditional saddle oxford on my suit days, with LHS loafers thrown in the mix on more casual days (slacks and sport coats).

Personal opinion: The fact that you care enough to ask suggests to me that whichever you choose, shell or calf, will look far better than the countless pairs of cheap black square-toed, rubber-soled monstrosities you will see on folks who don't care enough to ask.


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