# The Inverness Cape



## drrobert (Sep 24, 2006)

*Design for a modern-looking Inverness coat*



> Moderator's Note: In the course of the discussion about the demise of the hat as an essential element in gentlemen's apparel, a conversation began about the Inverness cape/cloak/coat. In order to keep that discussion from being lost among the postings on headwear, I thought it prudent to begin a separate thread on this subject. One can find the introductory postings as well as the discussion of what caused the disappearance of men's hats here.


As indicated by some of your posts, I believe that a modern-day looking Inverness overcoat would be a stellar addition to any gentleman's wardrobe. I can envision such a coat due to its uniqueness , its understated elegance, and quality of construction producing "double takes" for most viewers of that garment and individuals coming up to the wearer and pleading desperately to know "where did you get that overcoat?" I see the starting point for this coat beginning with Thomas Mahon's most recent copy of Victorian overcoat done in gray(see his website for a picture of this gorgeous looking coat) with truncated features for the cape portion lending a more modern flair of that overcoat . Perhaps there could be other features of such an overcoat that could be tweaked to look more modern and I would like to know what those would be. I would humbly ask Thomas Mahon or Chris Despos or any other competent designer to rough sketch or rough draft what they believe a 21st century looking Inverness coat would look like. If they or someone else can come up a design that will produce the effects on observers that I think would automatically follow from such a beautiful piece of tailoring, then I would be happy to go forth for such a bespoke overcoat and gladly make it my first official pictorial post for AAAC public scruitiny and commentary.drrobert


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## Sator (Jan 13, 2006)

*Patterns for an Inverness Coat*



drrobert said:


> I would humbly ask Thomas Mahon or Chris Despos or any other competent designer to rough sketch or rough draft what they believe a 21st century looking Inverness coat would look like. If they or someone else can come up a design that will produce the effects on observers that I think would automatically follow from such a beautiful piece of tailoring, then I would be happy to go forth for such a bespoke overcoat


The tailors on the forum might like to confirm this but my impression is that it is much easier if you give your tailor a working pattern to cut off rather than getting him to draught a tricky garment from scratch. If you really are serious about it I would suggest going to one of those tailors with pictures of the completed garment along with the following patterns:

1. Louis Devere : _The Handbook of Practical Cutting_ (1866)

https://imageshack.us

2. Vincent c.1888 quoted from Waugh, _The Cut of Men's Clothes 1600-1900_:

https://imageshack.us

You should sit down with your tailor and work out how to adapt the pattern to your measurements. You might also like to get Devere from Amazon as it has text describing how to cut the garment.


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## drrobert (Sep 24, 2006)

*To SATOR*

Your illustration of an Inverness coat is a good place to start at, but I would want something more modernistic. Possibly it would mean the caped portions would be much shorter so that buttons would show more or it might mean a 12-18" flap on the back in gray wool with red lining that could be seen underneath the flap and then that flap just continues over the shoulder for maybe 10-12" and sweeps away from the top of the overcoat to reveal the shirt and tie underneath. Like anything else, as difficult as construction would be for this garment, the thought process involved in the design for such an overcoat is even harder. But back to your illustration, it certainly functions well as a starting off point which I hope that between myself and others will result in a design that would be worthy of Chris Despos or Tom Mahon or any other competent bespoke tailor of note. drrobert


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## Sator (Jan 13, 2006)

drrobert said:


> Your illustration of an Inverness coat is a good place to start at, but I would want something more modernistic. Possibly it would mean the caped portions would be much shorter so that buttons would show more or it might mean a 12-18" flap on the back in gray wool with red lining that could be seen underneath the flap and then that flap just continues over the shoulder for maybe 10-12" and sweeps away from the top of the overcoat to reveal the shirt and tie underneath.


It's really up to your imagination and your tailor now. You can also see that the first pattern gives you options for a cape that is more or less full so obviously they made adjustments according to individual preferences back then too. I find it is a fine balance between wanting to maintain authenticity and modernising the garment to make it as wearable today as you can.

Maybe some of the tailors here can provide some input?


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## medwards (Feb 6, 2005)

Moderator's Note: In the course of the discussion about the demise of the hat as an essential element in gentlemen's apparel, a conversation began about the Inverness cape/cloak/coat. In order to keep that discussion from being lost among the postings on headwear, I thought it prudent to begin a separate thread on this subject. The previous four postings in the thread you are now reading were from that thread. One can find the introductory postings as well as the discussion of what caused the disappearance of men's hats here.


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## DougNZ (Aug 31, 2005)

Inverness capes are still regularly worn by people in Scottish National Dress, particularly pipe bandsmen. These are mainly nylon to be waterproof, but some of the manufacturers make beautiful examples in wool, also.


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## Kav (Jun 19, 2005)

This is a gut reaction and niether condemnation or approval for your project. I got to try on an Inverness, have a maker in the U.K. earmarked from an older post for one someday. Many garments, especially for outdoors have settled on dimensions and details because THEY WORK.


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## comrade (May 26, 2005)

Probably 35 years ago J. Press in New York, 
before they even had a street-level storefront,
sold Inverness Capes. I assume it was RTW,
although the garment could have been a sample
for their "custom" trade. In any case, one might
contact them. At the time, of course, Press
was a family-owned business and records and/
or patterns may have disappeared when the firm
was acquired by a Japanese(I believe) corporation
in the 80s.


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## 16412 (Apr 1, 2005)

Capes are rather easy to make. Not much to them.

Decide what you like, how many buttons, if any. How long or short. Inverness means sleeveless coat.


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## Concordia (Sep 30, 2004)

Apart from the antique-show value, does anyone have a sense of what the practical use of the Inverness might be? 

It seems that the cape has some ability to deflect snow and rain that might otherwise cling to the back of a standard topcoat. But the wearer's suit jacket sleeves would be exposed, which is an obvious deficit in extreme weather. 

Any other thoughts?


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## drrobert (Sep 24, 2006)

*To Concordia*

Inverness capes can be purchased or designed with sleeves below the caped portion and therefore remedying your concern about exposure to the elements if such an Inverness coat did not have such sleeves for protection. Some would argue that an Inverness coat with sleeves below the caped portion is no longer a true Inverness coat. Perhaps medwards can give us the definitive answer as to whether an Inverness overcoat with attached sleeves is by definition still a true Inverness overcoat or not. drrobert


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## 16412 (Apr 1, 2005)

drrobert said:


> Inverness capes can be purchased or designed with sleeves below the caped portion and therefore remedying your concern about exposure to the elements if such an Inverness coat did not have such sleeves for protection. Some would argue that an Inverness coat with sleeves below the caped portion is no longer a true Inverness coat. Perhaps medwards can give us the definitive answer as to whether an Inverness overcoat with attached sleeves is by definition still a true Inverness overcoat or not. drrobert


I believe if you add sleeves it would be another type of coat with another name. Or, several types of coats. Some Great Coats have one or more capes.

Sleeveless is for more freedom of movement.


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## Sator (Jan 13, 2006)

WA said:


> I believe if you add sleeves it would be another type of coat with another name. Or, several types of coats. Some Great Coats have one or more capes.


It is then called an Ulster overcoat. The cape is usually detachable.


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## Mister Antony (Jan 4, 2007)

*Inverness Capes*

I was contacted by DRRobert who suggested I may make a useful contribution to this interesting thread.

I have been involved in the manufacture of Inverness Capes for 25 years. 
My company in Glasgow, Scotland is the only company worlwide which specialises in this product.

The Inverness style of cape is most definitely sleeveless. If it has sleeves then it is not an Inverness. As far as we know it takes its name from a Lord Inverness who once sported this style of garment. Differences in style can occur with the length of the top-cape which can either be made as a 'full cape' (see picture below) or as a 'half-cape' ( where the top-cape disappears into the back of the armhole ).

An Inverness Cape is a rather unique & versatile style of garment. It is most often worn as a special alternative to a heavy overcoat, by Sherlock Holmes devotees or traditionally with Scottish Highland Dress.

The most popular usage today worldwide of the Inverness style is by pipers & drummers in Bagpipe bands who wear Inverness Raincapes. The unique styling offers the wearer double-layered protection and complete freedom of arm movement. This allows the bandsmen to play without restriction while giving protection to themselves & their instruments. (see picture below)

The Inverness is also popular with other niche market users such as highland dancers, dogwalkers, hillwalkers, fisherman & shooters.


​
It is difficult to imagine that the Inverness style of cape could reappear as a more commonly worn type of everyday outergarment. The combination of top-cape & undercoat make it a relatively bulky garment which does not really fit in with the majority of people whose lives are lead in the ' fast lane '. Those whose lifestyle can cope with such a garment will find pleasure & enjoyment which will 'turn heads' over many years.

A healthy, safe & happy New Year to you all !

Antony M Mistofsky
Glasgow, Scotland
www.invernesscapes.com
www.misterantony.com


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## Goldrush (Apr 12, 2005)

Casco Bay Wool Works advertises in the New Yorker, as I recall. Inverness capes, they're clearly not. 

Their capes drape like they added fabric to the basic overcoat design. They look like the cuffs and seam insides blew out.


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## Kav (Jun 19, 2005)

Prehistoric ( Oetsi) to historic ( Holmes) capes work in rain and snow mostly by deflection instead of repelling. Oetsi's reed cape naturally channeled rain and snow down by the tapering of the tightly threaded canes and channels. Wool, which can easily absorb 30% of it's own mass in water and remain warm and relatively watertight works by swelling tight and the drape. leather garments wick rain down the often present fringe also found on many wool and silk garments. All of these garments also offer the additional quality of silence. The rather loose, bulky cut also reflects this wicking phenomenon. If you've spent time in a tent or awning in the rain or snow, you know touching the walls will draw water through and create a drip point.The appearance of oiled, tarred and finally ( yech) plastic materials destroyed this quality of silence. Ask any horseman to tack up a fresh colt in a rainstorm after snap,crackle, popping up to him in the dark in some dayglo yellow thing.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

These capes are absolutely magnificent in tweed. I was once surprised to see a man wearing one in a local bookstore, and he/it looked great. To my eye, they sort of need a hat of some sort, for proportion, but this can easily lead to the Holmes references.

Loden might work better without a hat, than tweed.


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## jsprowls9 (Jun 24, 2005)

Sator said:


> The tailors on the forum might like to confirm this but my impression is that it is much easier if you give your tailor a working pattern to cut off rather than getting him to draught a tricky garment from scratch.


Patterns are certainly appreciated with you have them. Especially when discussing historic recreations, or incorporating historic details into a modern garment. However, most tailors skilled in design and patterncutting could recreate any style from a clear photo.

For those who may not be interested in investing in references like Devere's you could try to convince your tailor to contact a costume shop, especially a university theatre. Or, check out your local library's interlibrary loan program for references, too.

From a style perspective, I doubt this garment will specifically turn heads; but, it is an interesting personal statement. If you want one, by all means strike up a conversation with a local tailor and see what he/she can do for you. Please let us know how this project shapes up for you.


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## Kav (Jun 19, 2005)

The Inverness also enjoyed popularity in pre war Japan. Most were very formal black and sometimes sported fur ruffs. You could see a few still worn in San Francisco's Little Tokyo into the early 60s. There is a Jimmy Cagney movie set in prewar Japan. Cagney meets with a peace advocate member of the imperial family who is wearing one. There is a taste of traditional fun in these garments. An Inverness for Holme's fans, Duffle for mariners and desert rats, Ulster worn by Conway stepping forward to greet Chang in Lost Horizon and Spade in his Burberry. But a poly cotton pullover Anorak with AC/DC logo? Thats for skateboarders.


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## yachtie (May 11, 2006)

Goldrush said:


> > I'm sorry, this one looks like a priest's cassock.


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## Benjamin.65 (Nov 1, 2006)

Doctor Damage said:


> These capes are absolutely magnificent in tweed. I was once surprised to see a man wearing one in a local bookstore, and he/it looked great. To my eye, they sort of need a hat of some sort, for proportion, but this can easily lead to the Holmes references.
> 
> Loden might work better without a hat, than tweed.


Loden is a fine choice indeed. My younger brother married a Scot. It's quite a lovely garment when worn properly.


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## Leonard (Apr 29, 2004)

I made about 4 Inverness Capes last year and I'm making a couple right now. Sleeveless, they definitey are. As for tweaking the design, well you really have to sit down with your tailor and talk to him about it. Sounds like you have something on mind and until you do have that chat you'll probably only get more confused by reading this thread!!!


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## Isaac Mickle (Nov 28, 2006)

*fyi: 19th-century chic suits neo-dandies*


Natasha Bita, Milan
January 15, 2007
*MEN'S fashion has gone back to the future, with top hats and silver-tipped walking sticks for modern-day dandies.*

Luxury label Salvatore Ferragamo teamed olden-day top hats with jeans and riding boots on the catwalk in Florence, in a show to kick off this week's autumn-winter 2007-08 collections in Milan.

"It's cool to wear a top hat with a pair of skinny jeans," Ferragamo's menswear designer, Massimiliano Giornetti, said after showing his eclectic collection of capes, top hats and velvet dressing gowns.​https://www.theaustralian.news.com.au/story/0,20867,21059738-2702,00.html


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## Isaac Mickle (Nov 28, 2006)

more from the same article:

Quilted silk dressing gowns in jewelled hues of ruby and emerald were wrapped over business suits. "It's like in the 19th century," Mr Giornetti said. "You can wear it inside when you entertain guests at home, over a grey pinstripe."

Debonair dressing for after-dark also took the spotlight at Ermenegildo Zegna, a brand specialising in men's power-suiting crafted from the finest Australian merino wools. Shawl-collared velvet tuxedo jackets were given a makeover, worn over black turtleneck merino wool knitwear in place of the traditional frilly white shirt.

"Nowadays for men, evening wear is more important," Zegna spokeswoman Alessandra Tirolo said. "If they have to make an important appointment for work, it's often over dinner or at the theatre." ​


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## Sator (Jan 13, 2006)

Isaac Mickle said:


> MEN'S fashion has gone back to the future, with top hats and silver-tipped walking sticks for modern-day dandies.
> "It's cool to wear a top hat with a pair of skinny jeans," Ferragamo's menswear designer, Massimiliano Giornetti, said...


Top hat with jeans?

I guess it would be nice it I could walk into the next Ferragamo store and request to bespeak a proper silk top hat. Somehow I suspect they are just playing a game of catwalk dress up and that I would be laughed out of the store.


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## Sator (Jan 13, 2006)

Isaac Mickle said:


> Shawl-collared velvet tuxedo jackets were given a makeover, worn over black turtleneck merino wool knitwear in place of the traditional frilly white shirt.


Traditional frilly [sic] white shirt with a dinner jacket? This is getting more and more bizarre. Just catwalk costume baffoonery I fear.

Perhaps he meant ruffles? These were worn with court dress once upon a time:


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## Isaac Mickle (Nov 28, 2006)

I saw another article on the "frilly" shirt with jeans look. It was attributed to Jim Morrison of the Doors. For some reason, he is the look for one or some of these designers.

I think Romantic dressing-up is in style for young people. Think of Johnny Depp in his pirate shirt.


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## Parker Gabriel (Sep 18, 2013)

Interesting enough.
The costume-type overcoat that the owners of the *Dark Shadows* copyright have licensed for marketing, and which is represented as being similar to that which Jonathan Frid wore in character as Barnabas Collins, is often described as an Inverness cape.
It appears actually to be more of an Ulster, which is similar to a genuine Inverness. But it has sleeves, where a true Inverness does not, and its capelet is shorter than that of a true Inverness and can, in some cases, be removed. A true Inverness's capelet is permanently affixed to its frock.


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## Parker Gabriel (Sep 18, 2013)

Leonard said:


> I made about 4 Inverness Capes last year and I'm making a couple right now. Sleeveless, they definitey are. As for tweaking the design, well you really have to sit down with your tailor and talk to him about it. Sounds like you have something on mind and until you do have that chat you'll probably only get more confused by reading this thread!!!


I commend you, Leonard, on actually constructing those kinds of overcoats. I have actually attempted to make an Inverness cape for myself thrice; the third time I attempted it proved to be the charm, but even so, they CAN be rather difficult to shape properly. I should know; the one I completed does have its flaws.

Maybe I should post a photograph of myself wearing it with what, for me, is a regular work ensemble; alas, since the trousers I wear with that ensemble all have cargo pockets on their legs, it may not be as workable for daily wear as others here may believe.

I'm interested in buying an Inverness from you; top dollar will then be paid. All I'll need will be the cost.


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## Pentheos (Jun 30, 2008)

Capes and cargo pants? You're either joking, or...well, not sure what the or is...


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## Parker Gabriel (Sep 18, 2013)

Pentheos said:


> Capes and cargo pants? You're either joking, or...well, not sure what the or is...


 I wish I WERE joking. The pairs of cargo trousers I wear are the product of Williamson-Dickie, noted for its mass-produced work clothes.

In my judgment, poly/cotton work twill has been severely underrated. 

Getting back to the Inverness, there is more than a little something to be said in favor of it. Again, it fits into what I have cited elsewhere, the steampunk aesthetic.


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