# How do you get the right LHS fit?



## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

How do you get the right Alden/Alden-for-BB LHS fit? Size down, or your normal size? And is it different between the unlined and lined models?


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

I "size down" in both the lined and unlined lhs (though always wear the same size in loafers, 8D or 8.5C). There may be some slight difference between the lined and unlined versions - I've heard that repeatedly on the forum - but if there is a slight difference then it's certainly better than heel slippage if I buy my normal size in bluchers (8.5D) or balmorals (8.5D or 9D) depending on last.


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## Anon 18th Cent. (Oct 27, 2008)

I wear a size 9.5 D in many Alden lasts, 9 D in the barrie and tru-balance lasts, but 8.5 D in the van lasted BB unlined shell LHS. My sense is most people just go down half a size, but I find that the lack of a lining seems to make the shoe roomier and more flexible, and the last thing I want is a loafer slipping around on my foot. I do take a 9 D in the BB-Alden full strap loafer, which is lined and on the aberdeen last. I don't think I have ever tried on a lined LHS.

I have heard of people wearing their normal size in the unlined LHS, but they seem to be the exception. I would start by going down half a size.


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## LanceW (Jun 2, 2009)

I tried on the unlined for BB LHS for the first time last weekend and started with the same size that I wear in AE #5. Right out of the box, it was the most comfortable shoe I have ever worn. I'm not sure what I should do though since I think cordovan stretches more than calf?


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## TheWGP (Jan 15, 2010)

For reference, I have multiple pairs of BB unlined in 11D and Alden lined in 11.5D . My "true Brannock size" is an 11D/E - I literally fall right in the middle of those two widths, so differences in lasts and my careful/cautious use of an instep stretcher to eliminate my high instep as an issue have been crucial.

Part of the issue with fit is your tolerance for width and instep height. I have a somewhat high instep; therefore, I *don't* size down, since the lasts are already tight on the instep. In fact, for the lined LHS the 11.5D were initially very tight on the instep - I'm sure purchasing a wide width might have helped some, but the 11.5D fits better in the width than the 11.5E does! I've purchased an instep stretcher due to my high instep; while this isn't a solution I'd recommend for everyone, it's helped my insteps out tremendously with a variety of shoes that are otherwise perfect in the length and width at the forefoot.

There's some room for personal preference here - with loafers, some people like them a bit loose and almost "slipper-like" and some people like them to strictly conform to the foot. The lined version is much less "slipper-like" after wear than the unlined, in my experience. I have one pair of BB unlined that date back probably 30-35 years; these LHS are the most comfortable and slipper-like shoes I own, particularly sockless. Due to this factor, I would be hesitant to purchase BB unlined in a "perfect fit brand new" but would rather get them somewhat tight (which is what I did with the BB whiskey - I could have gone with an 11.5D and felt better immediately after purchase, but the 11D has turned out perfectly over time).

It's not enough to understand the lasts; you have to understand your feet and your preferences. BTW, cordovan does stretch - but don't expect it to stretch in the same degree as calf, at least not without a stretcher or some time. The unlined LHS does seem to stretch more than the lined LHS, in my experience - hence my insistence on an initially tight fit with the BB model.


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## well-kept (May 6, 2006)

I have had a counterintuitive experience with the lined shell lhs. I bought my usual size, 11d, which is also what I wear in the Barrie. They were loose at first, my heel lifting out with every step and I felt I should have sized down. But after breaking them in the heel slippage stopped, they seemed to tighten up and now fit very comfortably.


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## Naval Gent (May 12, 2007)

I have come to realize that Alden sizes are just approximations. I have a pair of LHS loafers in both shell cordovan and calfskin. They are the exact same marked size, but the fit is significantly larger in the shells. I also have a couple pairs of calf tassels. One is a half size bigger then the other one (same width). The half size pair are a little loose, and the other pair are a little tight. Bottom line is you have to try them on to know if they fit.

Scott


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## Tonyp (May 8, 2007)

I wear the same size in both lined and unlined LHS Shell cordovan. But I find that the lined are a bit snugger fitting than the unlined. If I bought another pair of the lined (I have 3 pair already) I would go to an E width for more comfort.


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## bd79cc (Dec 20, 2006)

Well-kept: thanks for an excellent insight regarding heel slippage.

Here's an observation for my fellow Texans: size your LHSs exactly as you would size your boots - look for wiggle room in the toes, a closely-fitting but not tight instep, and a good "slipping into" when you put them on. Also expect heel slippage for a couple of months of frequent wear.


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## hsc89 (Oct 14, 2009)

*It depends . . .*

I think the LHS is just one of those shoes you have to try on each time and take into consideration how you will wear them. I measure out as a 12.5 B on the Brannock device and I have a pair of #8's in a 12.5 B that fit great - with thicker socks (like with a pair of GT "Fluffies") - and were almost perfect right out of the box, if not a little loose in the heel. The BB unlined, however, worked for me in a 12 C but I like to wear those without socks. The fit was snug at first but then after a short time began fitting like a pair of Quoddy's. Back to an Alden branded LHS - a pair in Ravello. I didn't feel like waiting on a special order (when I have now been waiting over six months for a stock shoe I purchased through a local dealer) and took a chance on a 12 B that Alden SF had in stock. I must admit I was pleasantly surprised when it fit well too! Now, it is better with thinner or no socks, but it is still very comfortable and actually more secure on my foot than the #8's.

I know they are on the same last, the Van, but I could not even get my foot into the 12 B from BB! Additionally, all of the above were initially tight across the instep of the right shoe in the exact same spot and there is very little difference in toe box room. The size up/down advice is a good place to start but I believe one should definitely try as many different size/width combinations as they can before buying each time - particularly when looking at shell versions.

Strange but wonderful shoes!


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## Bartolo (Mar 2, 2009)

Tonyp said:


> I wear the same size in both lined and unlined LHS Shell cordovan. But I find that the lined are a bit snugger fitting than the unlined. If I bought another pair of the lined (I have 3 pair already) I would go to an E width for more comfort.


I'm curious whether others find this too -- that sized the same, the Alden lined LHS fit a little snugger than the BB unlined.


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## joenobody0 (Jun 30, 2009)

well-kept said:


> I have had a counterintuitive experience with the lined shell lhs. I bought my usual size, 11d, which is also what I wear in the Barrie. They were loose at first, my heel lifting out with every step and I felt I should have sized down. But after breaking them in the heel slippage stopped, they seemed to tighten up and now fit very comfortably.


I take my same size for the Barrie and Van lasts. That's the general sizing recommendation from Alden in SF.


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## Dragoon (Apr 1, 2010)

joenobody0 said:


> I take my same size for the Barrie and Van lasts. That's the general sizing recommendation from Alden in SF.


I sent an email to Leather Soul regarding pre-ordering the Chromexcel LHS and Tom also recommended ordering the size that fits best in the Barrie last.


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

So, basically, the verdict is that it's a crapshoot. Thanks for the help, guys.


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

Orgetorix said:


> So, basically, the verdict is that it's a crapshoot. Thanks for the help, guys.


You got it! Just buy as many pairs as you can on eBay and see what works best. My first time I just bought a pair of lhs that was really beat (cost me $20) so I could check the sizing. After trying them on, I gave them a good polish and sent them back to eBay where they sold for $40. Bit of a hassle, but I effectively got paid to try on some Aldens.


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

Cardinals5 said:


> You got it! Just buy as many pairs as you can on eBay and see what works best. My first time I just bought a pair of lhs that was really beat (cost me $20) so I could check the sizing. After trying them on, I gave them a good polish and sent them back to eBay where they sold for $40. Bit of a hassle, but I effectively got paid to try on some Aldens.


I'll be in DC over Thanksgiving, so I may stop in at Alden and do some trying on. I could go to the local BB store, but if they stock the LHS at all they don't have many sizes.


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## TheWGP (Jan 15, 2010)

Orgetorix said:


> I'll be in DC over Thanksgiving, so I may stop in at Alden and do some trying on. I could go to the local BB store, but if they stock the LHS at all they don't have many sizes.


BB's that carry shoes only stock D widths - and if you want any other width the wait can be long, depending on stock. Sizing would also be potentially hit or miss. Go to the Alden store, it's the most reliable thing to do - the only thing you're missing is the unlined LHS, and well, it's easier to find a BB than an Alden store!


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## closerlook (Sep 3, 2008)

Cardinals5 said:


> You got it! Just buy as many pairs as you can on eBay and see what works best. My first time I just bought a pair of lhs that was really beat (cost me $20) so I could check the sizing. After trying them on, I gave them a good polish and sent them back to eBay where they sold for $40. Bit of a hassle, but I effectively got paid to try on some Aldens.


this is actually the best way. one cannot know how a shoe will like the lhs will break in until it is worn for a few weeks. to take the advise of the sales person and just go for it in a given size is an expensive risk.


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## Danny (Mar 24, 2005)

I got the unlined BB LHS one half size down from my normal size. I chose this size only after trying on both my normal size and a full size down at a BB shop. I am still happy with this size 3 years later.

The instep thing is definitely real, they don't fit like weejuns...or really any other shoe. You have to try them and for some people, the LHS just doesn't work in any size.

I have learned that erring on the larger size is better than the smaller size, but that is just my personal opinion.

Shoe fitting takes years of getting to know your own feet.

I would trust an Alden salesperson or the shoe person at 346 Madison to help fit these shoes. It might help to tell them what size you take in another common shoe.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Tonyp said:


> I wear the same size in both lined and unlined LHS Shell cordovan. But I find that the lined are a bit snugger fitting than the unlined. If I bought another pair of the lined (I have 3 pair already) I would go to an E width for more comfort.





Bartolo said:


> I'm curious whether others find this too -- that sized the same, the Alden lined LHS fit a little snugger than the BB unlined.


Having lined versions of Alden's LHS in both shell and calf and a pair of the unlined shell BB LHS's, I have sized down one half size in every case. With the lined shell versions, I experienced some minimal discomfort at the top of my foot, just under the penny strap on the left shoe. After a substantial break-in period, the pain is gone an the shoes fit very comfortably. With the unlined shell BB LHS and the calf LHS's there simply never was any discomfort experienced, I assume because the unlined shells were just a bit more roomy and the calf LHS's were a bit more pliable than shell versions, right out of the box!


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Shoes should NEVER be painful. I have purchased too many shoes that fit perfectly and never give me pain to ever support the view that pain, however temporary, is acceptable during a "breaking in" period.

I bought a pair of the calfskin LHS and found they were the worst fitting shoes I have ever tried on (my feet have no quirks, other than slightly narrow heels and a bit of toe claustraphobia, both of which the LHS actually fit quite well). The super-low instep is ridiculously low and I cannot imagine how my feet would have to be shaped to fit under that strap; probably similar to pancakes. I know some of you find the LHS fits great - and that's great - but I honestly believe the Van last is not an average fitting last and should be sold ONLY in orthopedic stores to customers with feet with atypical characteristics. But, Alden has made a mint selling them to people who "gotta have the LHS", so I suppose I shouldn't argue with commercial success, however much I think it is undeserved (and possibly dangerous to the foot health of some customers). I do not think anyone recommending the LHS as a substitute for the classic Weejun is helpful, since the two fit completely differently.


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## Repp Stripe (Oct 6, 2010)

Nor do they even really look like classic Weejuns, with their low vamp and short tongue.


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

This is tangential, but can anyone who has the Polo Darlton or C&J Harvard shell pennies comment on the fit? Are they easier on the instep than the LHS?


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## tlocke (Jan 9, 2010)

I am surprised that Alden SF recommends the same size in the Barrie and Van last. I have new BB cordovan LHS in 8E that are still uncomfortable on the top of the shoe under the strap after a five wearings. My Alden cordovan PTB (Barrie last also size 8E) were comfortable out of the box, perhaps even a bit too roomy. 
I guess it is very hard to make generalizations about the sizing for any individual.


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## closerlook (Sep 3, 2008)

ALL GUESS WORK. ALL OF IT.


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## joenobody0 (Jun 30, 2009)

tlocke said:


> I am surprised that Alden SF recommends the same size in the Barrie and Van last. I have new BB cordovan LHS in 8E that are still uncomfortable on the top of the shoe under the strap after a five wearings. My Alden cordovan PTB (Barrie last also size 8E) were comfortable out of the box, perhaps even a bit too roomy.
> I guess it is very hard to make generalizations about the sizing for any individual.


I've experienced large variations in fit even among the same style/size/last/leather combination. You _*really*_ need to try on these shoes, or at least be able to return them easily.


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## bd79cc (Dec 20, 2006)

More observations (some from way back!):

1. The 986/987s and the Brooks LHS look the same on your feet, but will feel very different from each other.

2. 986/987 - the lining and more robust build gives them a thick, stout, supportive feel - like wearing a pair of heavy work shoes.

3. Brooks LHS - though not a moccasin at all, no lining and a lighter build gives them a more moccasin-like feel. This is the shoe we all want the Bass Weejun to be like, except at a much lower price!

4. If you have "curvy" feet, high arches, narrow or wide foot width, or narrow heels, you'll have to experiment with sizing.

5. As joe mentioned above, these shoes are hand-made, so there will be variations from pair to pair of the same size. Find a vendor who will help you find the best fit.


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## Markus (Sep 14, 2004)

Couple more comments - 
1. My first pair of LHS were my standard size, in calf. The shoe salesman recommended buying them snug, since they would stretch somewhat but, IIRC, the smaller size was unbearable and I ended up going with my normal size. Those shoes were always uncomfortably tight across the instep and eventually the strap actually tore. After about 8 years i guess.
2. Both my BB and Alden cordo LHS I purchased in my standard barrie size - 10.5 C. Both have been very comfortable. The BB cordos eventually went back because the thread attaching the strap to the vamp began to unravel. My Aldens are great. no issues and very comfortable.
3. Next time I buy a pair I plan to take home AT LEAST two pair and work out, between them, which two fit my feet the best. There is variability not only in the fit but in the finish and appearance of the cordovan. At the price of these shoes, be very picky. Best way to be picky is to not be in front of the salesman. Just buy two or three pair in your size, take them home and figure it out in private. Oh! BTW I suggest you do so without bending your foot and making a bunch of creases across the shoe that will annoy the salesman when you return them.


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## closerlook (Sep 3, 2008)

for those of you who do size down a half size in the Alden lined version, do you experience any cramping in the toe box?

if so, did this open up to better comfort after some time?


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## maximar (Jan 11, 2010)

Did I experience those cramps and I almost went back to the store and smacked the guy who sold them to me. But after 6 times of wearing them, they fit like a glove. I think working with widths will work instead of the painstaking natural stretch to happen.


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## closerlook (Sep 3, 2008)

maximar, 
so you say that despite the initial discomfort and the desire to smack down the salesman on Madison, they opened up real nice for you?


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

Orgetorix said:


> I'll be in DC over Thanksgiving, so I may stop in at Alden and do some trying on. I could go to the local BB store, but if they stock the LHS at all they don't have many sizes.


cathy and joe are very good


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## maximar (Jan 11, 2010)

closerlook said:


> maximar,
> so you say that despite the initial discomfort and the desire to smack down the salesman on Madison, they opened up real nice for you?


They feel great now. Like I said, "fits like a glove". Next time I'll try to get a wider width just to see what happens.


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## closerlook (Sep 3, 2008)

mcarthur said:


> cathy and joe are very good


yes, they are both wonderful.


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## Bartolo (Mar 2, 2009)

mcarthur said:


> cathy and joe are very good


I was in DC a couple of weeks ago, but unfortunately did not have time to do any shoo shopping. I'll be back and hope to check out the shop.


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

Orgetorix said:


> I'll be in DC over Thanksgiving, so I may stop in at Alden and do some trying on. I could go to the local BB store, but if they stock the LHS at all they don't have many sizes.


Well, I did stop in at Alden DC today, and Joe was very helpful in working with me to figure out my size. It seems that, for the lined LHS at least, 11E is my best bet. That's a half size down and a width up from my "normal" size of 11.5D.

Interestingly, Joe said that the unlined BB version of the shoe is on the Copley last. Which is something that's been theorized about here before, but I thought had been disproved. I'm more inclined to think it's truth after hearing it from the sales staff at an Alden company-owned store.


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## Anon 18th Cent. (Oct 27, 2008)

From Alden HQ's mouth, the BB LHS is on the van last.


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## closerlook (Sep 3, 2008)

Orgetorix said:


> Well, I did stop in at Alden DC today, and Joe was very helpful in working with me to figure out my size. It seems that, for the lined LHS at least, 11E is my best bet. That's a half size down and a width up from my "normal" size of 11.5D.
> 
> Interestingly, Joe said that the unlined BB version of the shoe is on the Copley last. Which is something that's been theorized about here before, but I thought had been disproved. I'm more inclined to think it's truth after hearing it from the sales staff at an Alden company-owned store.


joe has told me that he has been told its on the copley last, presumably by one of us.
this is what's known as tautology.


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

Edwin Ek said:


> From Alden HQ's mouth, the BB LHS is on the van last.


Well, that settles that.



closerlook said:


> joe has told me that he has been told its on the copley last, presumably by one of us.
> this is what's known as tautology.


It's also what's known as a vicious cycle of misinformation, apparently.


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## g.michael (Jul 9, 2010)

Orgetorix said:


> Well, that settles that.
> 
> It's also what's known as a vicious cycle of misinformation, apparently.


Reminds me of the well stocked Alden salesman who recently tried to tell me the LHS and the PTB were on the same last. I knew the truth and diplomatically let it slide as he was a nice older man.


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## dwebber18 (Jun 5, 2008)

I wear a 12.5 but can go to a 13 in most shoes, but I sized down to a 12 in the unlined LHS from BB. They fit perfect without socks and they are a tad snug with regular socks.


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## EastVillageTrad (May 12, 2006)

I walked into the Alden store, got measured, asked the salesman what size would work best for me.

Found a pair then online and bought them.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

bd79cc said:



> 4. If you have "curvy" feet, high arches, narrow or wide foot width, or narrow heels, you'll have to experiment with sizing.


If you have feet that meet that description then I recommend you not bother with the LHS at all. I purchased a pair and found them to be the worst fitting shoes I've ever bought. The Van last will only fit very specific shaped feet, so be ruthless when trying them on: if they don't fit perfectly, don't buy them. If shoes hurt, then they don't fit.


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

that's wise advice - I like 'em a lot, looks, etc-wise, but could never find a size that fit, and ended up giving away the pair I foolishly bought anyway.


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## bd79cc (Dec 20, 2006)

Doctor Damage said:


> [. . . ] if they don't fit perfectly, don't buy them. If shoes hurt, then they don't fit.


It really all comes down to this when buying any kind of shoes.


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## joenobody0 (Jun 30, 2009)

bd79cc said:


> It really all comes down to this when buying any kind of shoes.


It's a hard expensive lesson to learn for some of us.


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## Mazama (May 21, 2009)

Doctor Damage said:


> If you have feet that meet that description ("curvy" feet, high arches, narrow or wide foot width, or narrow heels)then I recommend you not bother with the LHS at all. I purchased a pair and found them to be the worst fitting shoes I've ever bought. The Van last will only fit very specific shaped feet, so be ruthless when trying them on: if they don't fit perfectly, don't buy them. If shoes hurt, then they don't fit.


Can't explain my different experience but as a stickler for proper fit (and a former shoe salesman at a high end store) I've worn the LHS with great success for going on 20 years. There's nothing unusual about my foot shape except a high arch and I've have worn the LHS in a 10-D, the same size as most shoes except I sometimes wear a 10.5-D/M in casual shoes that run large.


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## AAF-8AF (Feb 24, 2009)

Orgetorix said:


> Interestingly, Joe said that the unlined BB version of the shoe is on the Copley last. Which is something that's been theorized about here before, but I thought had been disproved. I'm more inclined to think it's truth after hearing it from the sales staff at an Alden company-owned store.





Edwin Ek said:


> From Alden HQ's mouth, the BB LHS is on the van last.





closerlook said:


> joe has told me that he has been told its on the copley last, presumably by one of us.
> this is what's known as tautology.


Not to beat this dead horse (or horse's butt in this case), last year I asked Kathy at Alden DC to please check with Alden HQ which last the BB LHS was on, and she told me they said Copley. I also believe it from my own experience in comparing the BB LHS to a same-size pair of Alden Flex Welt tassles on the Copley and to a same-size standard 986 LHS on the Van. The BB was much more similar to the Copley than the Van in both shape and fit. Is this to say the BB was never made on the Van? No. My belief is simply that it is *currently* made on the Copley. I'm sure this won't end the discussion, but I just wanted to put it out there (again).

Marc


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## Saltydog (Nov 3, 2007)

Could someone please educate me as to what Alden's "Flex Welt" shoes/lasts/fit/models are? I keep seeing it referred to--but have no idea what it means. I would be much obliged if someone would enlighten me. Thanks in advance.


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

Saltydog said:


> Could someone please educate me as to what Alden's "Flex Welt" shoes/lasts/fit/models are? I keep seeing it referred to--but have no idea what it means. I would be much obliged if someone would enlighten me. Thanks in advance.


The Flex Welt line is a collection of shoes made with extra flexible welts and soles; many of them are unlined. They need no breaking in and are comfortable from the outset.

Flex Welt penny = Van last
FW bit loafer = Van last
FW Chukka = Leydon last
FW tassel = Copley last
FW straight tip blucher = Copley last


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

AAF-8AF said:


> Not to beat this dead horse (or horse's butt in this case), last year I asked Kathy at Alden DC to please check with Alden HQ which last the BB LHS was on, and she told me they said Copley. I also believe it from my own experience in comparing the BB LHS to a same-size pair of Alden Flex Welt tassles on the Copley and to a same-size standard 986 LHS on the Van. The BB was much more similar to the Copley than the Van in both shape and fit. Is this to say the BB was never made on the Van? No. My belief is simply that it is *currently* made on the Copley. I'm sure this won't end the discussion, but I just wanted to put it out there (again).


I'm glad you got that information. In another thread I demonstrated that the BB tasssel loafers have been made on different lasts, so I guess it makes total sense that the penny loafers would have been made on different lasts. I have ignored the BB unlined penny because I assumed it was on the Van last and the Van last does not work for me, but if they're on the Copley then I will give them a try the next time I'm in Toronto.

Here's a comparison using images from BB website:

The BB calfskin penny, which we know is the Copley, looks different than the BB unlined penny, at least in these photos...


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

^ Yeah, they definitely look like different lasts. Going just by looks, I'd say the unlined LHS is on the Van and the calf is on the Copley.


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## bd79cc (Dec 20, 2006)

^I think you're right, Orgetorix. Putting a 987 next to a Brooks LHS, both from my closet, shows them to be almost identical in size and shape, which suggests that they're both Van last. But the 987 is a heavier, more substantial shoe.


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## Redsrover (Mar 23, 2009)

I just recently purchased the Alden 986 locally after trying on a pair in my normal size 11D. they fit best with thin dress socks, and the right shoe is just slightly tight across the top of my foot. I tried with a thicker sock the first day I wore them to the office and my feet were KILLING me that afternoon. I thought for a day or so that I'd been to hasty and bought the wrong size for me. What I find most interesting is that many on this thread and elsewhere say they size down in the LHS, in essence suggesting to me I'd fit best in the 10D rather than my normal 11D. I don't think I could get my foot in anything smaller than these. Hope they stretch some so that I can squeeze into them with a thicker sock in the cold months of the year.

Red


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

^ Red, you might consider trying an instep/vamp stretcher: https://www.cedarvillestore.com/p-115-mens-vamp-shoe-stretcher.aspx

$50, but if it saves the shoes for you it'd be worth it.


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## maximar (Jan 11, 2010)

Redsrover said:


> I just recently purchased the Alden 986 locally after trying on a pair in my normal size 11D. they fit best with thin dress socks, and the right shoe is just slightly tight across the top of my foot. I tried with a thicker sock the first day I wore them to the office and my feet were KILLING me that afternoon. I thought for a day or so that I'd been to hasty and bought the wrong size for me. What I find most interesting is that many on this thread and elsewhere say they size down in the LHS, in essence suggesting to me I'd fit best in the 10D rather than my normal 11D. I don't think I could get my foot in anything smaller than these. Hope they stretch some so that I can squeeze into them with a thicker sock in the cold months of the year.
> 
> Red


I had the same experience. They will stretch. It took about 7 wearings for me. It was a painful experience!


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## Redsrover (Mar 23, 2009)

And what about the white lines in the creases of these new cordovans? After two wearings they are starting to look more worn in than I expected. Just leave them be, or buff or what? I'm lightly brushing with a horse-hair (much irony) shoe brush after each wearing.

Red


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## joenobody0 (Jun 30, 2009)

Redsrover said:


> And what about the white lines in the creases of these new cordovans? After two wearings they are starting to look more worn in than I expected. Just leave them be, or buff or what? I'm_* lightly brushing*_ with a horse-hair (much irony) shoe brush after each wearing.
> 
> Red


Brush long and hard if you want to get rid of that. If it really bothers you, shell might not be the correct material for future purchases.


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

joenobody0 said:


> Brush long and hard if you want to get rid of that. If it really bothers you, shell might not be the correct material for future purchases.


good suggestion and another method that works as well is to use a hair dryer


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## godan (Feb 10, 2010)

Alden loafers seem not to be a natural fit for me. What seems to work, including for the BB version, is to buy one half size down, wear the shoes over dampened Wigwam wool socks and walk them dry. It is a version of a trick I learned in the Army to make old-style all leather combat and jump boots fit correctly.


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## closerlook (Sep 3, 2008)

godan said:


> Alden loafers seem not to be a natural fit for me. What seems to work, including for the BB version, is to buy one half size down, wear the shoes over dampened Wigwam wool socks and walk them dry. It is a version of a trick I learned in the Army to make old-style all leather combat and jump boots fit correctly.


yes, i've heard of this before.
I have flat oddly shaped feet, and so I'd love to hear other people's takes on this for say *even on an oxford shoe*.


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## Redsrover (Mar 23, 2009)

Thanks for the feedback y'all. I love the look and feel of the LHS and I'm determined to make them work for me. I'll give this pair all the attention they need, and if they still fit tight I'll leave them for sockless S/S/F wearing and move up to the right size for the kind of sock I like to wear. Yesterday was my 3rd wearing...no noticeable stretch yet.

Red


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## Redsrover (Mar 23, 2009)

Update...I found a shoe stretcher in the closet that I forgot I had. I cranked up the right loafer and will let it sit overnight and see what happens. 

Red


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

If it helps (or at least heartens), mine were very tight in the vamp and then suddenly weren't. Probably between 7-10 wearings in, a few of them with purposely thick socks. They just magically became the most comfortable perfectly fitting shoes I've ever owned. Keep at it.


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## joenobody0 (Jun 30, 2009)

^^^ Keep in mind that the footbed conforms to the shape of your foot eventually. That compacting will produce more room around the vamp with no stretching of the uppers necessary.


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## brooks_bro (Jun 15, 2009)

Hoping to get some help from you gents. 

Had a perfect pair of unlined flex welts that I recently sold - how would the Aberdeen last fit vs the flex welt?


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## Redsrover (Mar 23, 2009)

Thanks JoeNo and Trip. I'm dedicated to this process. Especially since I covet a pair of these in black sometime soon.

Red


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## joenobody0 (Jun 30, 2009)

brooks_bro said:


> Hoping to get some help from you gents.
> 
> Had a perfect pair of unlined flex welts that I recently sold - how would the Aberdeen last fit vs the flex welt?


The Aberdeen is a last, which determines the fit of a shoe, the flex welt is just a different treatment to the welt of the shoe, which makes the shoe more flexible. You can have a flex welted shoe on the Aberdden last, and a different flex welted shoe on the Hampton.


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## closerlook (Sep 3, 2008)

most flex welt shoes are however on the copley and van last and are most often tumbled calf and unlined suede.


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## Redsrover (Mar 23, 2009)

What a difference! The shoe stretcher made a difference and this morning I chose the thicker socks to wear with the LHS and as I type this they are comfortable, both left and right. Persistence pays off, but the stretcher helped.


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## makingmark (Jun 22, 2008)

I know this is an old thread, but I consulted it and have my own experience to contribute that echoes (and thus, gives greater credence) to what’s already been said. 

On a Brannock I am a 7D (just a bit over the dividing line between C and D). I own several Crockett & Jones loafers and am always a 6UK in those. I tried on the LHS snuff suede loafer in both 6.5D and 6D. My problem area is always cramping around the pinky toe of my left foot and my experience with the Crocketts is that they do indeed loosen up in width. But this was my first pair of Aldens. The 6.5 felt too comfortable (like it would become too loose with wear) and the 6 was snug in the toe box. But not under the strap. The salesman recommended the 6 and I went with it.

Similar to an earlier poster, the first day of wear was definitely uncomfortable, I had pain in the left pinky. I feared I had made the wrong decision. I wore it another day and it noticeably loosened up but was still uncomfortable. Not wanting to make a poor fit work, I actually ordered the 6.5 as well so I could compare it at home. I figured one or the other would work; if I had to sell one, so be it.

Well, just as an earlier poster said…after a few more wears the fit was perfect. I returned the 6.5 unworn. 

I think the best advice is to buy snug but not uncomfortable, and any discomfort shouldn’t be at any area of reinforcement (e.g. toe box, under the loafer strap). I know that’s a subjective line and the only thing you can do is accept that you may make mistakes. With shoes generally and loafers especially, you don’t really know until it’s too late to return them.


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