# Hook Vents



## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

This first post is just the beginning of some research into the hook vent, which I will continue to add to as time progresses.

In yesterday's "Hook Vents Required" thread, I threw together some quick information from the archives, which is below. I'll follow that up today with some pictures of various hook vents, and then try to something more substantial on the origins of the hook vent in the near future.

From a quick glance at the archives, it appears Press started using hook vents in the late 1950s-early 1960s and they caught on with other makers of Ivy style clothing (this is a tentative statement - I'll do more research later). They are generally considered to be a somewhat distinctive feature of TNSIL jackets/suits.

As for origins, here's EastVillageTrad's explanation from 2007 
They've been around a long time. I think it is a throw back to old garment construction techniques on 18th/19th Century frock coats, which I've seen a number of which have this feature, I've seen it even on 18th Century military coats. When you are dealing w/ a skirt on a garment, it's the easiest way to close the vent, just sewing down the skirt flap, and it also provides a point of reinforcement.

Does that make sense?

Here is an example:

As for function, here's Doctor Damage's explanation of its function (from the same thread as above)

The hook vent is just a slight variation on the normal single vent. It's centred over the centre back seam, rather than offset, but the overlap is the same. I find that hook vents open more readily.

Below: hook vent on right.
​_____________________________________________

Pictures of some hook vents on my summer suits and sport coats

Sorento

Press

Steins

Brooks (note the unusual visible stitching opposite the hook)

Mystery-maker

Mystery-maker for Jack Runnion (a 3/2 darted jacket)

Hilton

Something I'm curious about, which is featured on a number of my Brooks and other jackets, is something like a modified straight vent where there is no actual hook, but a visible line of stitching on the outside of the jacket that is angled. Does anyone know the proper name for such a vent?

Example of slanted external stitching on a vent - Brooks Brothers


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

Okay, a very quick search shows that hook vents were around on men's suits and sport coats at least as early as the 1920s

From the Clothing Trade Journal (1920): "General Specification, Models Based on Size 36 Style, three-button sack; waist length 16 inches full length, 30 1/2 inches; blade effect, easy; back effect, form fitting with denned waist line; back finish, *12 inches **hook' vent [presumably a short form of "hooked vent"]*; shoulder width, 4'/a. inches; shoulder effect, square with slight pleat effect in sleeve head; shape of lapel, low gorge, notch, dimensions 3'^ inches; shape of front, slightly cutaway, rounded corners; button spacing, 1 inch higher than lower pocket; front effect, full chest; style of pockets, regulation; location of pockets, 10 inches; sleeve size, 14 1/2 inches at elbow, 10 3/4 inches at hand; sleeve finish, open vent.

https://books.google.com/books?id=H...ok+vent"&cd=1#v=onepage&q="hook vent"&f=false


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

Most interesting, Cards. As the diagram above shows, and as the hook vent photo I posted yesterday on WAYW?, (which has the seams visible through the back), the hooked vent is arguably better centered than than the other kind. You have a magnificent array of hooked vents by the way. I wonder, does any manufacturer make them today?


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## Penang Lawyer (May 27, 2008)

My SR tailor in 1970 made an overcoat similar to the photo but he had hidden button holes so that the tails would button so you would sit well on your horse. To my knowledge he didn't sell many.


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## AldenPyle (Oct 8, 2006)

Seems like a feature on all Press jackets, but never on Brooks (even if made by Southwick). Also not on CCC jackets.


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## Caesars0331 (Jun 23, 2009)

AldenPyle said:


> Seems like a feature on all Press jackets, but never on Brooks (even if made by Southwick). Also not on CCC jackets.


My CCC tweed also doesn't have a hooked vent. The corbin I wore today does, however. I have an old Hickey Freeman sack that is a standard single vent...


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

AldenPyle said:


> but never on Brooks


The fourth pic above is a Brooks wash-and-wear olive poplin that has a hook vent. Granted I haven't seen hook vents on many Brooks jackets, but I've seen a few. It seems probable that there was a short period where Brooks did use hook vents. I think almost all my Norman Hilton stuff also has hook vents.


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

Cardinals5 said:


> The fourth pic above is a Brooks wash-and-wear olive poplin that has a hook vent. Granted I haven't seen hook vents on many Brooks jackets, but I've seen a few. It seems probable that there was a short period where Brooks did use hook vents. I think almost all my Norman Hilton stuff also has hook vents.


nephew,
thank you for your research on this matter


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

There is very little information on the hook vent in the usual spots, but I thought I'd include these screen images from various books and magazines, which at least give us a bit more perspective on this unusual element of some TNSIL suits and sport coats.

Description of an overcoat with a hook vent, American Exporter, 1915


From the Uniform Regulations of the United States Marine Corps, 1922


Advertisement for MacGregor sport coat with a hook vent, Life Magazine, 1961


Advertising the hook vent to the African-American market, Ebony, 1962


Picture of a women wearing a boy's suit that has a hook vent, Life, 1972


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## AldenPyle (Oct 8, 2006)

Excellent posts, C5. This from the Lafayette student newspaper mentions the hook vent as example of its "Impeccably Ivy" styling.


















from

https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?88702-The-Curriculum-vs.-100-Authentic-Impeccably-Ivy-League-University-Approved-Style&p=850630#post850630


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

AldenPyle said:


> https://askandyaboutclothes.com/com...University-Approved-Style&p=850630#post850630


That's a great thread, AP - don't know how I missed during my time on the forum.


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## AldenPyle (Oct 8, 2006)

Thx
Here is an H.Freeman ad from 1960








from 
https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?89622-Naturalaire-1952-1961&p=866059#post866059

1960 from Cornell Sun









1967 from Cornell Sun


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

I do notice that lapped seams and hook vents often go together


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

The Rambler said:


> I do notice that lapped seams and hook vents often go together


Absolutely. Lapped seams are one of the features of many TNSIL suits and sport coats. From my own perspective the most desireable elements on any sport coat/suit are: natural shoulder, 3/2 roll, lapped seams, hook vent, and 2 buttons on the sleeves (preferably spaced quite apart). Patch hip pockets are preferable, but not required. Three patch pockets are best on blazers and, when possible, other sport coats. If I could have my druthers, I'd always buy 1/2 lined coats and suits as well.


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

My only issue with lapped seams, which I'm always happy to see, is that one of my favorite tailoring details is a beautifully hand picked seam on lapels, and on the edges of patch pockets. If I had it to do over, I'd have more patch pockets.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

I like this thread. A big improvement over trad tool sheds.


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## AldenPyle (Oct 8, 2006)

*One more from 1956*


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

^^ Looks reminiscent of the suit The Rambler posted in the WAYW thread earlier in the week. I haven't seen the good ol' buckle back on a pair of suit trousers in quite a while (chinos yes, suit pants no). We should have a thread on the buckle back (AP has posted a number of pics of chinos with the buckle back in the Trad Men pictures thread)


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## Brio1 (May 13, 2010)

*MY name is Hilton!*




Cardinals5 said:


> This first post is just the beginning of some research into the hook vent, which I will continue to add to as time progresses.
> 
> In yesterday's "Hook Vents Required" thread, I threw together some quick information from the archives, which is below. I'll follow that up today with some pictures of various hook vents, and then try to something more substantial on the origins of the hook vent in the near future.
> 
> ...


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

Brio1 said:


>


Mine's Chipp


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## P Hudson (Jul 19, 2008)

Quick question, somewhat off topic. I have only had to repair vents on jackets that were hook vents. Anybody else find that hooks are somewhat more delicate than the alternative/s?


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

AldenPyle said:


>


 Awesome. Exactly the cut and style of sack suit I want.


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

Cardinals5 said:


> ^^ ). We should have a thread on the buckle back (AP has posted a number of pics of chinos with the buckle back in the Trad Men pictures thread)


When I was in high school, Cards, wearing the buckle buckled signified that you were going steady.


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## Coleman (Mar 18, 2009)

Cards and AP (the two hardest working Trad Forumites in the biz in recent times) both bringing info to a thread guarantees greatness.

Thank you, gentleman.


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