# Is ones optimal suit coat size several inches larger than ones actual chest size?



## Casablanca (Apr 16, 2007)

My chest size is 35 inches but when I took a suit coat sized 38S to have it altered my alterations tailor said that the coat looked fine on me and if she were to alter the chest it would probably look to tight. So I'm wondering if I should buy suit coats and blazers in the future sized 38 instead of the harder to find 36 (the smallest I have seen online) and not worry about the chest being to large.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Casablanca said:


> My chest size is 35 inches but when I took a suit coat sized 38S to have it altered my alterations tailor said that the coat looked fine on me and if she were to alter the chest it would probably look to tight. So I'm wondering if I should buy suit coats and blazers in the future sized 38 instead of the harder to find 36 (the smallest I have seen online) and not worry about the chest being to large.


Until you become familiar with a particular model from a particular manufacturer, it can be very hard to know which size number in that particular model is going to fit. Torso volume has as much, or more to do with jacket size in any given cut as your actual chest size.

And even in the good old days when you could buy a U.S. brand suit made in the U.S. by traditional methods, you could go to a retailer and try on a suit in _your _size, and if it was too loose or too snug, try another of the same size and have it fit perfectly.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

stick with the 36.


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## cvac (Aug 6, 2006)

I have a 38S that has a 42" actual chest measurement. Like everyone else said, things can vary a lot from brand to brand and from model to model of suit.

Also, that suit may have been too big for you anyway, and the tailor didn't bother telling you the truth. Tailors are like mechanics, tons of bad ones out there.

Lastly, your suit could have been misstagged. Maybe it was really a 36, but somehow was tagged as a 38 at the factory.


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## Holdfast (Oct 30, 2005)

Generally there tends to a few inches of clearance built in to jacket measurements to allow for a good fit & comfort. So a jacket tagged 38 will have an actual chest circumference of 40-42 inches, depending on the cut. That would be WAY too big for someone with a 35" chest. I would agree with *a tailor*, and stick with 36 jackets.

But the easiest solution is to put on a 36, look in a mirror and then repeat with a 38. You should be able to fairly easily tell which both feels & looks better. My strong hunch is the 36 will look better.


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## The Louche (Jan 30, 2008)

I agree with all of these gents. I too am generally a 38, but I own and wear jackets that are labeled as high as 42! It all has to do with the Manufacturers definition of size (FWIW, my size 42 is jacket is from RLBL - Ralph's slim line...).

I also concur that many tailors are very bad; either with their work, advice, or both. I have a great alterations tailor that doesn't see eye-to eye with me sometimes. He is a wizard with a needle and thread, but as he is an older gent, usually suggests I wear things baggier than I like. Stand firm - wear size 36! 

(On a related note: I'll get run of the forum for saying this, but you might find it interesting that the going advice in many of the fashiony magazines like GQ and Esquire these days is to buy jackets a size DOWN from what you are used to. This goes along with your assessment that a 36 is likely a better option. Slim is in.)


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## Relayer (Nov 9, 2005)

Casablanca said:


> My chest size is 35 inches but when I took a suit coat sized 38S to have it altered my alterations tailor said that the coat looked fine on me and if she were to alter the chest it would probably look to tight. So I'm wondering if I should buy suit coats and blazers in the future sized 38 instead of the harder to find 36 (the smallest I have seen online) and not worry about the chest being to large.


For OTR I think the number in the coat is just a starting point for selecting one to try on. Otherwise, if it fits well, feels good and looks good, then it is the correct size.

As far as altering a coat that *is* a few inches too large in the chest, probably would cause other fit issues.

Unless you are buying a brand/model that you are familiar with, buying online obviously brings lots of variables into the equation, re fit.


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## Loose On The Lead (Dec 28, 2007)

a tailor said:


> stick with the 36.


So the chest measurement in a suit jacket is the same as one's anatomical chest measurement, but the waist measurement is (typically) a couple of inches larger?


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## Frank aka The Minotaur (Nov 12, 2004)

I've been told to not worry about the size number, fit the shoulders first, and take it from there. Bare-chested I measure 47". I take a 48S jacket if it's cut properly and gives me enough room in the shoulders and arms (I have 17" biceps and a 53" shoulders circumference).


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## JAGMAJ (Feb 10, 2005)

Loose On The Lead said:


> So the chest measurement in a suit jacket is the same as one's anatomical chest measurement, but the waist measurement is (typically) a couple of inches larger?


To clarify--the listed size of a suit jacket should be close to your actual chest measurement, but the actual size of the suit jacket will be larger. The question is by how much. A 40R jacket does not really measure 40 inches, but probably 42-44 inches. So, if you have a 40 inch chest, you will most likely buy a 40 jacket (depending on the make). The extra breathing room should be built into the jacket.


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## Loose On The Lead (Dec 28, 2007)

JAGMAJ said:


> To clarify--the listed size of a suit jacket should be close to your actual chest measurement, but the actual size of the suit jacket will be larger. The question is by how much. A 40R jacket does not really measure 40 inches, but probably 42-44 inches. So, if you have a 40 inch chest, you will most likely buy a 40 jacket (depending on the make). The extra breathing room should be built into the jacket.


Oh, I think I see. So if I have a jacket made to measure, and the tailor measures my chest at 43" and my waist at 38", what I end up getting is something akin to a 41" OTR jacket, at least in the chest. Correct?


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## cvac (Aug 6, 2006)

It depends. Some jackets are made with + 2" inches of room, others are made with +4" inches of room. Still other suits are made with +0 or +1" inches of room. It all depends on the maker and the model.

I have found 2.5-3" of room to be optimal for me. +4" is usually just a little too baggy.

Plus there are variables in shoulder width. For example you may find a 42 or a 41 in a certain model of suit fits you about equally well in the chest, but you size down to the 41 because the 42 has shoulders that are too wide for your build.

Another thing to watch for is the rear vent or vents. If the vent(s) stand open or pucker, the suit is usually to tight in that area. However, going up in a size may result in a poor fit in other areas depending on the model. So, at that point you either switch to another model / style or go MTM.



Loose On The Lead said:


> Oh, I think I see. So if I have a jacket made to measure, and the tailor measures my chest at 43" and my waist at 38", what I end up getting is something akin to a 41" OTR jacket, at least in the chest. Correct?


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## Loose On The Lead (Dec 28, 2007)

Um...sorry, cvac...I forgot to finish my thought. I brought up my waist measurement because when I'm measured for pants, it's 36". So the waist measurement for my jacket was 2" greater. Assume the same offset for the chest, and my MTM jacket with a 43" chest is probably more or less like a 41 in OTR.

Edit: Never mind. This still says nothing about how the same manufacturer's OTR jackets are sized.


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