# How should a tweed jacket fit?



## dparm (Nov 18, 2008)

I thrifted a Harris Tweed jacket from eBay. The measurements are spot-on with what I typically wear in a suit coat (shoulders, length, sleeves, etc) but it feels much bigger, as if it's cut narrow at the mid-section but flares out at the bottom. The bottom almost feels "floppy".

Is a tweed jacket going to be cut a bit looser or is this one just not the right fit for me? Is it unrealistic to expect it to fit like a suit jacket?

Can provide pics if it would help.


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## CMDC (Jan 31, 2009)

It may depend on when the jacket was made. I've found that, because Harris Tweed is so ubiquitous, you can find it in a more traditional Ivy/sack cut as well as in a more 70s-ish style. They run the gamut of styles over the years. I've come across ones that are much more shaped, have more constructed shoulders, wider lapels, etc. You may have one of these. Just because its Harris doesn't mean it's going to be cut a particular way. Same for all tweed.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

After a few harrowing years of attempts, I've sworn off buying unknown brands or cuts off eBay. There's frankly no amount of measuring that can guarantee a fit. I've wasted so much money this way I finally had to stop. It's tough, though. 

If you can post pictures, great, but if you don't feel right in it then it doesn't fit. Maybe a tailor can help you, but usually the intervention of a tailor off-sets a lot of the reason for going to eBay in the first place.


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## dparm (Nov 18, 2008)

That's how I felt too -- it should fit, or be pretty close. I am just surprised at how it almost looks like an hourglass when I put it on. If it were slimmer at the waist it would be perfect.

Fortunately this eBayer is local so returning it should be easy.

I just don't know where to get a good tweed blazer without spending $500+. I tried J.Crew's and the shoulders were ridiculously wide on a 42R.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

I'm disappointed that J.Crew has decided to go full Ludlow. It's so extremely nipped in the waist that I have to jump to a 42, which looks awful. The Aldridge doesn't present this problem and would be an otherwise nicely made jacket, certainly on par with J.Press and Brooks these days.


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## jkiley (Jul 2, 2011)

I would at least ask a tailor what he could do. At least around here, bringing in the waist of a jacket runs about $20. I have picked up a number of tweeds (mostly here, but also on eBay), and, even after tailoring, I'm typically at or under 10% of the new price for a nice tweed.


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## dparm (Nov 18, 2008)

Frighteningly, Jos A Bank has their "executive" Harris Tweed sportcoats for $148.50 (somehow MSRP of $495, though I doubt anyone has ever paid that).

I might just take a walk and try it on...doesn't cost me anything.

EDIT: online only. They described it as the "traditional" cut which is supposedly "full". GRRR.


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## unmodern (Aug 10, 2009)

You also might want to check out the Harris tweeds by Hardwick, e.g., available here: americansuitstore.com (no affiliation). They are slightly more expensive than JAB---but slightly less frightening for the same reason.


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## dparm (Nov 18, 2008)

unmodern said:


> You also might want to check out the Harris tweeds by Hardwick, e.g., available here: americansuitstore.com (no affiliation). They are slightly more expensive than JAB---but slightly less frightening for the same reason.


Not bad, but no measurements supplied. I was hoping for a brown instead of gray (looks better with my complexion).

Banana Republic actually has one for 30% off now though I don't know how I feel about the buttons on the outer pockets:

https://bananarepublic.gap.com/browse/product.do?searchCID=25789&vid=1&pid=875098&scid=875098002I have a cord blazer of theirs and it fits well for OTR.


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

dparm said:


> Frighteningly, Jos A Bank has their "executive" Harris Tweed sportcoats for $148.50 (somehow MSRP of $495, though I doubt anyone has ever paid that).
> 
> I might just take a walk and try it on...doesn't cost me anything.
> 
> EDIT: online only. They described it as the "traditional" cut which is supposedly "full". GRRR.


I got one several years ago. Its heavy fabric, not a "dress up" jacket, but fine for throwing over a pair of old cords and taking a walk. Of course a tailor can suppress the waist but you'll never get it to look like anything like those at Bookster.


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

dparm said:


> Not bad, but no measurements supplied. I was hoping for a brown instead of gray (looks better with my complexion).
> 
> Banana Republic actually has one for 30% off now though I don't know how I feel about the buttons on the outer pockets:
> 
> https://bananarepublic.gap.com/browse/product.do?searchCID=25789&vid=1&pid=875098&scid=875098002I have a cord blazer of theirs and it fits well for OTR.


It's ridiculously short unless you like showing your butt or if you're a regular and you find a long is actually long enough.


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## TweedyDon (Aug 31, 2007)

dparm said:


> Banana Republic actually has one for 30% off now though I don't know how I feel about the buttons on the outer pockets:
> 
> https://bananarepublic.gap.com/browse/product.do?searchCID=25789&vid=1&pid=875098&scid=875098002.


I'd avoid this.

1) It's not Donegal tweed, despite its name. (And I have a personal dislike of companies that describe tweed or jackets as "Donegal" when it's not tweed from Co. Donegal... and, yes, I know that Donegal wasn't smart like the HTA and don't have a claim to the name, but still...)

2) It's insanely short. Cool now, perhaps, if you're the other side of 25 to me, but this will strictly be a one or two season jacket before you feel foolish.

3) It's from the country Imported.

For $250, I'd suggest you could find much, much better tweed on the Exchange, or from Vintage Whistles. And, frankly, if you're looking to spend that much, why not throw in about 40% more and get something superb from Bookster that'll last a couple of decades and fit you perfectly?


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## 32rollandrock (May 1, 2008)

The only good thing about JAB tweed is that you can return it. I found a "bargain" HT at JAB for around $100 that went straight back because the shoulders were too wide by a factor of four. OTOH, I have a HT by JAB that's fine, and I paid less than $30. Generally speaking, I'm not thrilled with how JAB fits me.



dparm said:


> Frighteningly, Jos A Bank has their "executive" Harris Tweed sportcoats for $148.50 (somehow MSRP of $495, though I doubt anyone has ever paid that).
> 
> I might just take a walk and try it on...doesn't cost me anything.
> 
> EDIT: online only. They described it as the "traditional" cut which is supposedly "full". GRRR.


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## Starch (Jun 28, 2010)

TweedyDon said:


> I'd avoid this.


I would agree with you, except that's an understatement.

I wouldn't wear that if you paid _me_ $250.


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

32rollandrock said:


> The only good thing about JAB tweed is that you can return it. I found a "bargain" HT at JAB for around $100 that went straight back because the shoulders were too wide by a factor of four. OTOH, I have a HT by JAB that's fine, and I paid less than $30. Generally speaking, I'm not thrilled with how JAB fits me.


You certainly have a right to tee off on JAB, but this one is a slice. Don't blame the seller at a brick and mortar store if you buy a jacket with shoulders that are too wide for you. That's why jackets come in different sizes.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Starch said:


> I would agree with you, except that's an understatement.
> 
> I wouldn't wear that if you paid _me_ $250.


Are you kidding? I could do a lot with $250, including buying a better sport coat. :icon_smile_big:


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## Thom Browne's Schooldays (Jul 29, 2007)

I think pictures would help us here.

As mentioned above, one of the things with tweeds is that they're such a stable item that you'll find them in all sorts of cuts and styles. The Harris tweeds I run into around here are uaully dated in someway (big 70s lapels, or shoulder, close buttoning 80s/90s).

I know on ebay there are a lot of more equestrian(? is that an apt term?) tweeds, high buttoning 3 button fronts, nipped waist, structured shoulders, double vents etc etc.


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## dcjacobson (Jun 25, 2007)

> Frighteningly, Jos A Bank has their "executive" Harris Tweed sportcoats for $148.50 (somehow MSRP of $495, though I doubt anyone has ever paid that).


I bought one of those a couple years ago, online. It was described as "natural shoulder." It had very thick shoulder pads, much thicker than the usual JAB jacket. So I sent it back.


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## jwlester (Oct 20, 2009)

I'm not at all clear as to what the problem is with the tweed you bought. I guess pictures would help, but is it too suppressed at the waist or is the skirt flared too much or.....?

Sounds like something a decent tailor can take care of for a small fee. You will still be well within a good bargain. Wouldn't you have most jackets touched up by a tailor to fit you perfectly (or as close as possible)?

I assume any suit or jacket I buy here or on ebay is going to need a little work. I'm still coming out way ahead.


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## ASF (Mar 6, 2006)

Dparm,

I have one or two tweeds I'm hoping to shed. One is from Orvis, the other Ben Silver.

PM me if interested.


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