# New G&Gs on their way!



## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

I am so excited about this that I had to let you all know - I don't have them yet but they are being delivered tomorrow:aportnoy:

They are one of the new models - Isham on the GG06 last - a great looking heavy shoe - rather like Edward Green's Dover. I have ordered it as is on the website because I thought it looked so great in Mocha calf.

Photos will follow!


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## jjl5000 (May 14, 2006)

Great work LM.

I know how you feel because.....

I am expecting my modified Hughes in vintage rioja tomorrow!:icon_smile_big:


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

jjl5000 said:


> Great work LM.
> 
> I know how you feel because.....
> 
> I am expecting my modified Hughes in vintage rioja tomorrow!:icon_smile_big:


And I thought I was unique :icon_smile_big:


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## SM67 (Mar 23, 2007)

One further step from unique - my MTO chelsea boots arrived today and very nice they are too!


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## manuduenas (Sep 16, 2007)

I don't believe you - I need pictures...:icon_smile_wink:

manuduenas


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## Rossini (Oct 7, 2007)

Funnily enough, I think I'm expecting a pair of G&G Astaires tomorrow (or, possibly, Friday). I went for it to be a little different, as I don't have anything nearly like it at the moment. 

Leather Man, I really like the look of the Isham and have wondered how it will compare to the Dover.

JJL, the Hayes is gorgeous, a similar style to some Vass I got earlier in the year. Love that style of shoe.


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## jjl5000 (May 14, 2006)

LM & Ross - I'm looking forward to the pics :icon_smile:

I'm in London all day tomorrow so no pics from me until the weekend.


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## Roikins (Mar 22, 2007)

Lucky... my bespoke order was delayed until Aug. 22nd because the tree maker is on vacation. :icon_smile_big:


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Leather man said:


> I am so excited about this that I had to let you all know - I don't have them yet but they are being delivered tomorrow:aportnoy:
> 
> They are one of the new models - Isham on the GG06 last - a great looking heavy shoe - rather like Edward Green's Dover. I have ordered it as is on the website because I thought it looked so great in Mocha calf.
> 
> Photos will follow!


Enjoy them! Looking forward to the photos.


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## Tonyp (May 8, 2007)

I am expecting my modified hughes in the vintage cherry color next month. Love to see the Hughes in the rioja modified.


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

Leather man said:


> I am so excited about this that I had to let you all know - I don't have them yet but they are being delivered tomorrow:aportnoy:
> 
> They are one of the new models - Isham on the GG06 last - a great looking heavy shoe - rather like Edward Green's Dover. I have ordered it as is on the website because I thought it looked so great in Mocha calf.
> 
> Photos will follow!





jjl5000 said:


> Great work LM.
> 
> I know how you feel because.....
> 
> I am expecting my modified Hughes in vintage rioja tomorrow!:icon_smile_big:


well ain't you the lucky pair! i like the isham alot i just wist the would make it with out the rear seam


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

Roikins said:


> Lucky... my bespoke order was delayed until Aug. 22nd because the tree maker is on vacation. :icon_smile_big:


what did you order for you bespokes??


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## Roikins (Mar 22, 2007)

luk-cha said:


> what did you order for you bespokes??


Test fitting stage.


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

Roikins said:


> Test fitting stage.


oh yes i remember these now should be quite cool when their done!


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## qwerty (Jun 24, 2005)

The Ishams look like they will be gorgeous (from the stock photos on gg.com).

Question: what happened to the shorter toe cap GGs which had been previewed here a few weeks back? All the new stock GG models on the website have the same reptilian, long, snouty toe caps!


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## Rossini (Oct 7, 2007)

Any word? Any one?!

Will this thread ever blossom into a profusion of G&G photographs?!

Expectations are at an all-time high!


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## speedster (Jan 13, 2008)

Got mine delivered to day ... pics upp later

:aportnoy:


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

Rossini said:


> Any word? Any one?!
> 
> Will this thread ever blossom into a profusion of G&G photographs?!
> 
> Expectations are at an all-time high!


Woa! there!:icon_smile_big: I've just unpacked mine - I've been out all day and need now to find time to take and post the pictures - but will be doing as soon as I can!!

First impressions are good. Ishams look even better in the flesh and fit very well. GG06 is not as bulbous as EG 202 - its more elegant. I am certainly very happy with these shoes - so I'll be as quick as time will allow ( and Image shack - has a mind of its own and goes on stike regularly) with pics.


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

*G&G Ishams GG06 last*

Hope you like the pics! Flash makes life difficult but a very dull day here. Took a pic of back so y ou can see what luc-cha is talking about - but I like it on a heavy shoe.

Love the side seems and the last shape - all in all , dare I say it a more attractive shoe than the Dover .


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## speedster (Jan 13, 2008)

Waiting for the OP's pictures


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## speedster (Jan 13, 2008)

Sole pictures for the Ishams?


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## speedster (Jan 13, 2008)

Had my trees ordered unvarnished or waxed, they are realy nice. I wonder is the holowing out a new option i dont think i have noticed on others.


I really think this variation of the rams head is nice, the Diamond broughing sets it slightly apart.

Im must say im quite pleased with my firts G&G's :icon_smile_big:
(It might turn out to be my "sweet tooth")


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## speedster (Jan 13, 2008)

Leather man said:


> Hope you like the pics! Flash makes life difficult but a very dull day here. Took a pic of back so y ou can see what luc-cha is talking about - but I like it on a heavy shoe.
> 
> Love the side seems and the last shape - all in all , dare I say it a more attractive shoe than the Dover .


+1 (but stil not as nice as my Perth) :icon_smile_wink: But i agree the front APRON & last is nice (nicer tha Dover even on the 606)

Splendid shoe, you would not happen to have a macro button on your camera. Would love to se the welting & sole ...


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## Rossini (Oct 7, 2007)

Leather Man, those Ishams are beautiful and I absolutely love the austerity line down the wing. What's the waist treatment like, they're double-soled aren't they? Can they be compared to the Dover? Very handsome shoes indeed. :aportnoy:

Speedster, what's that colour? It's amazing in the photograph. As you know, pretty much everyone here really admires that adelaide style. I also recognise those socks - Gallo per chance?


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## speedster (Jan 13, 2008)

Rossini said:


> Speedster, what's that colour? It's amazing in the photograph. As you know, pretty much everyone here really admires that adelaide style. I also recognise those socks - Gallo per chance?


jjl5000 knows this color QUITE well, vintage ROJ.... oh and its the Hayes on the MH71. So im quite curious about the Hughes both modified & non.
Here is an other PIC.
https://img258.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img9055bk2.jpg Focus is slightly off on this, but didnt want to re load the ones on the camera.

Rossini: You are quite right pertaining the socks, I quite like Gallo, but also Falke & DoreDore.


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

Rossini said:


> Leather Man, those Ishams are beautiful and I absolutely love the austerity line down the wing. What's the waist treatment like, they're double-soled aren't they? Can they be compared to the Dover? Very handsome shoes indeed. :aportnoy:
> 
> Speedster, what's that colour? It's amazing in the photograph. As you know, pretty much everyone here really admires that adelaide style. I also recognise those socks - Gallo per chance?


Yes I really love this line down the wing too. The waist treatment is plain - because the soles are double - closed channeled of course. I will take pics of sole tomorrow and edit my post to include them -but didn't bother earlier cos I thought they are not so interesting.

Don't know about that camera button Speedster but will investigate.

Love your shoes so much by the way! I have Hughes in Vintage Rioja on MH71 - similar to your Hayes - wow!

Do they match up to Dover - well, I think they are better than the Dover! I told Dean this and he seems just a little chuffed!! ( hope that doesn't mean something else in American English?)


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## speedster (Jan 13, 2008)

To put it in better terms i think would be "well pleased" but that would be to blatent for a british lad i think.

I think the MH71 is nicer than the 888 i have, I would say it is more "continnental" than the other british makes ... I think it has to do with profile.


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## jjl5000 (May 14, 2006)

LM & Speed...

Some great new additions :aportnoy: I definitely prefer Isham to Dover. The Hayes is :icon_hailthee:

Just opened the box that was waiting for me when I arrived home! Pics to follow including a comparison with the older Hughes.


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## 82-Greg (Apr 13, 2008)

I've noticed in many pictures on this thread and elsewhere that G&G appears to have a tall heel. I've gotten feedback from one or two owners that they don't feel and difference.

Is this true for the lucky owners who have posted? What is the general consensus?


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

82-Greg said:


> I've noticed in many pictures on this thread and elsewhere that G&G appears to have a tall heel. I've gotten feedback from one or two owners that they don't feel and difference.
> 
> Is this true for the lucky owners who have posted? What is the general consensus?


True on both counts. The heel is slightly taller and canted forwards - a little like a cuban heel. When wearing them they do not feel taller and somehow give greater comfort.


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## speedster (Jan 13, 2008)

Leather man said:


> True on both counts. The heel is slightly taller and canted forwards - a little like a cuban heel. When wearing them they do not feel taller and somehow give greater comfort.


+1

My EG's have avout 2,5cm (single sole) the G&G's massure 3,2in the back & 2,8 at the waist. I must admitt i did not pay atention to the canting when walking. The "cuban heel" I feel is somewhat of an exageration.
But it does in dead taper slightly. It gives the shoe more grace i think.
But i think all pictures exagerate this feature somewhat.


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## Rossini (Oct 7, 2007)

Leather man said:


> True on both counts. The heel is slightly taller and canted forwards - a little like a cuban heel. When wearing them they do not feel taller and somehow give greater comfort.


That's very interesting - on the vintage Church's I got recently the heel looks very similar, I was looking at them today and it appeared to be canted slightly and perhaps a little taller than usual. Perhaps the G&Gs hark back to an earlier era?


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

nice shoes guys! S the hayes is a BS project for me maybe next round or the round after that i am still undecided. it is such a iconic shoe and on SF at one time it was rated one of the sexiest shoe in the world:devil: ()

LM the Isham looks great! i think if i were going to get this i'd be looking for in bracken or beachnut but your looks just as great anyhow!


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

Rossini said:


> That's very interesting - on the vintage Church's I got recently the heel looks very similar, I was looking at them today and it appeared to be canted slightly and perhaps a little taller than usual. Perhaps the G&Gs hark back to an earlier era?


ssshhh dont let the cat out the bag now!


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## fritzl (Jun 5, 2006)

By all means, this is not G&G's territory.


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

fritzl said:


> By all means, this is not G&G's territory.


What do you mean fritzl?


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## fritzl (Jun 5, 2006)

Leather man said:


> What do you mean fritzl?


The look is too clean for my taste. I'm not certain, if I can find an example right now. I'll check and keep you posted.

Don't worry, I would take them in a second :icon_smile:


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## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

Leather man said:


> What do you mean fritzl?


He means that he has an inveterate hatred for all non-Mitteleuropa makers, especially EG and G&G, and he feels a compulsive need to troll those who don't share his opinion.


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## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

Leather man said:


> Love the side seems and the last shape - all in all , dare I say it a more attractive shoe than the Dover .


I didn't look at the pictures of this model on the G&G website closely enough, and I had thought that it was just a standard demichasse design. I see from your pictures that it's not but rather a sort of hybrid chasse/demichasse thing. I like it. I don't know if it's better than Dover (or Hove, G&G's riff on Dover), but it's a great addition to their lineup.

I guess that that style of dog's ear is a new G&G signature design element.


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## fritzl (Jun 5, 2006)

jcusey said:


> He means that he has an inveterate hatred for all non-Mitteleuropa makers, especially EG and G&G, and he feels a compulsive need to troll those who don't share his opinion.


That's what you read out of my reply. Congrats

It's a pity, that you are such a bitter person.


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## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

fritzl said:


> That's what you read out of my reply. Congrats
> 
> It's a pity, that you are such a bitter person.


Bitterness? Absolutely not. As for you, I can't explain otherwise the reason why you sh!t on every thread that mentions EG or G&G. You don't like them. We get it already.


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## speedster (Jan 13, 2008)

jcusey said:


> I didn't look at the pictures of this model on the G&G website closely enough, and I had thought that it was just a standard demichasse design. I see from your pictures that it's not but rather a sort of hybrid chasse/demichasse thing. I like it. I don't know if it's better than Dover (or Hove, G&G's riff on Dover), but it's a great addition to their lineup.
> 
> I guess that that style of dog's ear is a new G&G signature design element.


Could you please clarify difference chase/demi ... (exposed stormwelt etc)

I think the different aproaches to amongst others, like the dogs ear are one of the things that make them stand out. It is actualy like the are stl in evolution ... & are striving to make a "British bold statement" (understated of course :icon_smile_wink: )



fritzl said:


> That's what you read out of my reply. Congrats
> It's a pity, that you are such a bitter person.


It is too easy to read such things int your comments. It has some element of language (mis inerpretation) i think. I have the same, as on can clearly tell by my to spelling. But I think it is easyer to get understood in a more British context, than the Americen.

I am personaly GLAD we dont all share the same tastes. The world would be such a boring place


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## speedster (Jan 13, 2008)

jcusey said:


> Bitterness? Absolutely not. As for you, I can't explain otherwise the reason why you sh!t on every thread that mentions EG or G&G. You don't like them. We get it already.


I dont think it is that he does not like them, its rather the fact that he prefers bespoke Austrian. Due to feet, heritage & ease. (possibly price)

I know i stil cant bring my self to get a bespoke pair from G&G, Foster, Maxwel, Cook or JL LTD. Manly because i am never where they have fittings, and price. But I have a first pair of G&G's now and must say i am THRILLED! Lusting for an MTO.


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## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

speedster said:


> Could you please clarify difference chase/demi ... (exposed stormwelt etc)


I'll put together some pictures this evening.



speedster said:


> I dont think it is that he does not like them, its rather the fact that he prefers bespoke Austrian. Due to feet, heritage & ease. (possibly price)
> 
> I know i stil cant bring my self to get a bespoke pair from G&G, Foster, Maxwel, Cook or JL LTD. Manly because i am never where they have fittings, and price. But I have a first pair of G&G's now and must say i am THRILLED! Lusting for an MTO.


Oh, I understand how not everybody would like the aesthetic typically displayed by these makers (who's Cook, btw?). In particular, a lot of people criticize G&G for their snout-y, elongated lasts and their stylized design elements. I understand this criticism, even though I don't agree with it; and I think that it's perfectly appropriate that it be aired here. I just don't think that it needs to be repeated _ad nauseum_ in every thread that mentions G&G. I don't appreciate the aesthetic virtuosity of the sack suit, but I don't feel the need to post about how sack suits suck every time someone mentions them over on the Trad forum.

(And I fear that I'm out of the market for G&G bespoke, at least until the dollar makes a bit of a comeback against the pound. The prices, oh, the prices! The prices for MTO are bad enough, although I just ordered a pair of Thorpe boots recently anyway.)


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## speedster (Jan 13, 2008)

jcusey said:


> I'll put together some pictures this evening.
> 
> Oh, I understand how not everybody would like the aesthetic typically displayed by these makers (who's Cook, btw?). In particular, a lot of people criticize G&G for their snout-y, elongated lasts and their stylized design elements.
> I don't appreciate the aesthetic virtuosity of the sack suit, but I don't feel the need to post about how sack suits suck every time someone mentions them over on the Trad forum.


I like the chiseled lasts of G&G go whel in line wit the better italian & french brands. See a smal sample :icon_smile_big:

As for Eric Cook, there was an 8page article in the last MensEX(japanese, so I only had the opp to admire the pictures.

It can be ordered @amazon.jp https://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/4418071318/ as i have. shipping was swift, but just as expensive as the mag/book. Apparently you can get them at select book stores in London & NYC
(NYC Kinokuniya on 49th between 5th and 6th, old info from SF)

He has a smal sample gallery @ https://www.alexanderboyd.co.uk/ and

I dont coment things I dont like either (unles it is soething I HAVE to dement or the likes) ... Its much easyer that way, no need for me or others to get agrevated IMHO. There are some hotheads here as on other forums. But one has to take them for what they are ...


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## fritzl (Jun 5, 2006)

jcusey said:


> ...and I think that it's perfectly appropriate that it be aired here.


On a side note, I would appreciate your participation in the "other" shoe threads.

i.e. https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?t=84127&highlight=Vienna
https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?t=84127&highlight=Vienna

Speed, thank you for your support. Made my day. :icon_smile:


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## speedster (Jan 13, 2008)

fritzl said:


> On a side note, I would appreciate your participation in the "other" shoe threads.
> 
> i.e. https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?t=84127&highlight=Vienna
> https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?t=84127&highlight=Vienna
> ...


Just a general after thought realy. I have had vintage forum members patronize me for not knowing what was obvious to them. But I think wording & the way things are said are more difficult to grasp when a language is not your own.

As for the new shoes, Im STIL waitoing for some DECENT pictures :aportnoy:
You know ...


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## bengal-stripe (May 10, 2003)

It's that elusive Eric Cook whom some, (at least Nick Foulkes) claim to be the best and most temperamental of British shoemakers. 
(You order one style and he makes another one, as he feels like it):










Taken from Men's Ex - The World of High-End shoes - Vol. 3

His son is also a shoemaker and works (or at least used to work) for Cleverley.

*Oops - Too Late!!!*


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## speedster (Jan 13, 2008)

bengal-stripe said:


> It's that elusive Eric Cook whom some, (at least Nick Foulkes) claim to be the best and most temperamental of British shoemakers.
> (You order one style and he makes another one, as he feels like it):
> Taken from Men's Ex - The World of High-End shoes - Vol. 3
> 
> ...


It is never TOO late for aditional information, bengal. Thanks
You would not per chance have a scan of page 28/29


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## bengal-stripe (May 10, 2003)

speedster said:


> I dont coment things I dont like either (unles it is soething I HAVE to dement or the likes) ... Its much easyer that way, no need for me or others to get agrevated IMHO. There are some hotheads here as on other forums. But one has to take them for what they are ...


I think that is very wise.

I might say something negative in a general enquiry, maybe it stops someone wasting good money on a bad product.

But never, ever will I comment negatively on something someone has spent his money on. It's their choice and I do not have to wear it.

I do not need to make nasty remarks to feel superior. I just keep shtum.


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## Rossini (Oct 7, 2007)

fritzl said:


> On a side note, I would appreciate your participation in the "other" shoe threads.


I'd just like to say I hadn't noticed any untoward G&G bashing before though perhaps I missed it. As regards this thread, I for one certainly appreciate all your participations but it's killing me that my own G&Gs won't now arrive until Tuesday!!



bengal-stripe said:


> It's that elusive Eric Cook whom some, (at least Nick Foulkes) claim to be the best and most temperamental of British shoemakers.
> (You order one style and he makes another one, as he feels like it):


Now that's a real artisan. Brilliant!


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

fritzl said:


> The look is too clean for my taste. I'm not certain, if I can find an example right now. I'll check and keep you posted.
> 
> Don't worry, I would take them in a second :icon_smile:


i think i know what you mean i also am not hugely keen on the English style of reverse/ storm welting i also much prefer this A/H version










such as my Vass Windsors


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

fritzl said:


> The look is too clean for my taste. I'm not certain, if I can find an example right now. I'll check and keep you posted.
> 
> Don't worry, I would take them in a second :icon_smile:


I didnt' read anything bitter in your reply either. However I suspect JCusey has more experience of your posts than I do!

All I can say here is that I take your comment to mean that they are not your favourite shoes but if someone gave them to you , you would happily wear them. That's OK by me! Maybe Speedster is right about the British versus American context? I don't know. I do know from SF that you are not mad keen on Edward Green or Gaziano and Girling. I am not mad keen on Dinlackers but hey - we are all different!


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

jcusey said:


> I'll put together some pictures this evening.
> 
> Oh, I understand how not everybody would like the aesthetic typically displayed by these makers (who's Cook, btw?). In particular, a lot of people criticize G&G for their snout-y, elongated lasts and their stylized design elements. I understand this criticism, even though I don't agree with it; and I think that it's perfectly appropriate that it be aired here. I just don't think that it needs to be repeated _ad nauseum_ in every thread that mentions G&G. I don't appreciate the aesthetic virtuosity of the sack suit, but I don't feel the need to post about how sack suits suck every time someone mentions them over on the Trad forum.
> 
> (And I fear that I'm out of the market for G&G bespoke, at least until the dollar makes a bit of a comeback against the pound. The prices, oh, the prices! The prices for MTO are bad enough, although I just ordered a pair of Thorpe boots recently anyway.)


The Thorpe is a very very nice looking boot - similar apron of course to the Ishams and I am very tempted - but my bank account needs to recover first! Please would you post pics of the Thorpe when they arrive - probably next year!:icon_smile_wink: What leather/colour did you order?


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

luk-cha said:


> i think i know what you mean i also am not hugely keen on the English style of reverse/ storm welting i also much prefer this A/H version
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Now, you see I don't like those reverse welts and much prefer the english style. You say tomaato , I say tomato!


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

bengal-stripe said:


> I think that is very wise.
> 
> I might say something negative in a general enquiry, maybe it stops someone wasting good money on a bad product.
> 
> ...


i have heard some mixed things on Mr. Cook and judging from what he shown in the said Japanese publication i would rather get Trickers BS than his

also here are a few picture of the Isham i took at the trunk show in Tokyo in Feb
























the money shot








this is just asking to be made without a rear seam (sigh):icon_smile_wink:


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

Leather man said:


> Now, you see I don't like those reverse welts and much prefer the english style. You say tomaato , I say tomato!


AFAIK there is two way the English do a storm welf this is one i think it is called a fudge welt and the other more like the one on my Vass is called a notched welt but i am sure Bengal can correct me if i am mistaken


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## bengal-stripe (May 10, 2003)

speedster said:


> You would not per chance have a scan of page 28/29


*Voilá!*


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

luk-cha said:


> AFAIK there is two way the English do a storm welf this is one i think it is called a fudge welt and the other more like the one on my Vass is called a notched welt but i am sure Bengal can correct me if i am mistaken


You are right - there are these two ways - but as far as I know and have seen the english notched welt doesn't have huge stiches on it like the Vass - that's what I find off putting - but its just a matter of taste really.


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

Leather man said:


> You are right - there are these two ways - but as far as I know and have seen the english notched welt doesn't have huge stiches on it like the Vass - that's what I find off putting - but its just a matter of taste really.


too true but i think once you have seen the beauty of the Vass way close up you will change your mind

any way to tempt you in to get "das boot"


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

:icon_smile_big:


luk-cha said:


> too true but i think once you have seen the beauty of the Vass way close up you will change your mind
> 
> any way to tempt you in to get "das boot"


Sehr schoen!!! Wahrscheinlich mein naechste!!

I love, really love that curved seam on the side of the boot - G&G seem to take things to the next level:icon_smile:

I have been lusting after a shoe in tan pigskin since you posted your bespoke pics - but alas Edward Green only have some dull dark brown pig skin in - I am thinking about asking Dean whether he can do this MTO - though I cannot afford it just yet. Its all your fault:icon_smile_big:


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

Leather man said:


> :icon_smile_big:
> 
> Sehr schoen!!! Wahrscheinlich mein naechste!!
> 
> ...


this would look great in pig skin (BTW i love my little porky derby's) also i cant speak german, so please what does your first sentance mean (i speak leicester if that helps :icon_smile

this would great in also in pig skin https://centipede.web.fc2.com/church_aspen.html


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## speedster (Jan 13, 2008)

bengal-stripe said:


> *Voilá!*


 i must say, i think that is a lovely shoe. Thanks Bengal


Rossini said:


> Now that's a real artisan. Brilliant!





luk-cha said:


> i have heard some mixed things on Mr. Cook and judging from what he shown in the said Japanese publication i would rather get Trickers BS than his.


Now if SOMEONE in London or the sorounding area would have the time to stopp by for an uppclose impression of the Eric Cook selection I would be most greatefull. If possible with some pictures, but as im not one to walk around with a camera an play the tourist my self. I wont as the same from you.



luk-cha said:


> Here are a few picture of the Isham
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I know what you are talking about ... But that just leaves them to join at the reverse seam across the "nose"/front of the apron. Or you could perhaps entice Tony to do it seamless, I think you would have to ask for baybycalf. And he would spend at leas a 1/3more time on the lasting IMHO. But you seem to have some clout with the gentlemen @ G&G

BTW, I think you might like my first bespoke shoes :icon_smile_wink:
Peron e Peron, fitting in september ...



Leather man said:


> G&G seem to take things to the next level:icon_smile:
> 
> I have been lusting after a shoe in tan pigskin since you posted your bespoke pics - but alas Edward Green only have some dull dark brown pig skin in - I am thinking about asking Dean whether he can do this MTO - though I cannot afford it just yet. Its all your fault:icon_smile_big:


What would be the uppcharge. When i asked Dean, he said they only did exotics for bespoke. That was that ... I just wanted to know the options for MTO...

BTW, I think you are ALL at fault :aportnoy::icon_smile_big:


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## speedster (Jan 13, 2008)

luc-cha: he said:Quite lovely, Probably my next ...


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## kirbya (Nov 10, 2004)

Oh, one day I'll own a pair!

Kirby

----
You tailor your clothes.
Now tailor your hangers. 
The Hanger Project.
www.HangerProject.com


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

speed - i am eager to know what you ordered - i have heard P&P are quite good so i hope they fullfill this expectation

i have no clout with G&G i just order my BS and when i do i ask TG if he can make it this way - so far he can but i am still pushing for him to try a full seamless whole cut


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

speedster said:


> luc-cha: he said:Quite lovely, Probably my next ...


Yep! Spot on old chap:icon_smile_wink: ( or as one of my german friends tells me " alt Haus" - sounds funny to me but then "old bean" must sound funny to a german person!

Does pig skin count as an exotic skin? It doesn't seem exotic to me. However I wouldn't be surprised if Dean and Tony only offer it with bespoke. At the moment I am continuing to pester Edward Green - having turned my nose up at a swatch of muddy dark brown pig skin!


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

Leather man said:


> Yep! Spot on old chap:icon_smile_wink: ( or as one of my german friends tells me " alt Haus" - sounds funny to me but then "old bean" must sound funny to a german person!
> 
> Does pig skin count as an exotic skin? It doesn't seem exotic to me. However I wouldn't be surprised if Dean and Tony only offer it with bespoke. At the moment I am continuing to pester Edward Green - having turned my nose up at a swatch of muddy dark brown pig skin!


well if you are lucky there might be some left over from my bespoke commission - so "be a devil" and ask them:icon_smile_wink:


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## SM67 (Mar 23, 2007)

manuduenas said:


> I don't believe you - I need pictures...:icon_smile_wink:
> 
> manuduenas


Ok, hopefully they are attached here: Burnhams in vintage chestnut plus some shots of my well worn Buccleughs in fox suede, both on the soft square MH71 last.
Apologies for the poor quality photography.


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

好亮 me likey:aportnoy:


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

Oh joy! I know what you paid for those Chelsea boots - a lot!! For the others info - G&G are charging much more for them than the rest of the range because they have no seam - they are beautiful to behold!

The suedes are just great - you know I think suede improves with wear and age - it is a leather whose characteristic is "that worn and broken in look" anyway - so more is better. Some people don't think suede wears well - but that's because they miss the point IMO.


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

luk-cha said:


> well if you are lucky there might be some left over from my bespoke commission - so "be a devil" and ask them:icon_smile_wink:


The thought has crossed my mind:devil:

If EG still come up with nothing I might just do that!:icon_smile_wink:


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

luk-cha you are a bad influence !! I've just emailed Dean - you know, " just out of curiosity!!"


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## fritzl (Jun 5, 2006)

Leather man said:


> All I can say here is that I take your comment to mean that they are not your favourite shoes but if someone gave them to you , you would happily wear them. That's OK by me!


It's not that simple. Your Ishams' are wonderful, well executed, delicate leather. You are a lucky man, _altes Haus_ :icon_smile:

Even in my first language, it would be hard to express the small details.

Most important, it occured a entertaining dialogue about our beloved shoes. Great, isn't it?


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

fritzl said:


> It's not that simple. Your Ishams' are wonderful, well executed, delicate leather. You are a lucky man, _altes Haus_ :icon_smile:
> 
> Even in my first language, it would be hard to express the small details.
> 
> Most important, it occured a entertaining dialogue about our beloved shoes. Great, isn't it?


Indeed it is!

Sorry about my german grammer - I couldn't decide whether to write "alt Haus oder altes Haus" - woe is me:icon_smile_wink:

I notice that the rear seam and "dog tail" on mine is smaller, neater than on luk-cha's photos which are older - so clearly G&G shoes are evolving,

By the way fritzl your last sentence - better to say " caused" rather than "occured" - though I quite understand what you are saying:icon_smile:

Anyway thanks for the kind comments on my new lovely shoes!


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## fritzl (Jun 5, 2006)

Leather man said:


> ...though I quite understand what you are saying:icon_smile:
> 
> Anyway thanks for the kind comments on my new lovely shoes!


That count's. It's my pleasure.


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## Rossini (Oct 7, 2007)

Leather man said:


> You are right - there are these two ways - but as far as I know and have seen the english notched welt doesn't have huge stiches on it like the Vass - that's what I find off putting - but its just a matter of taste really.


I rather like the Vass stitching. I like both. I suppose it's a bit like a Rioja and a Bordeaux. A glass of each would be the thing! :icon_smile:



luk-cha said:


> any way to tempt you in to get "das boot"


I love it. What a picture! Wow.



luk-cha said:


> 好亮 me likey:aportnoy:


Indeed, beautiful shoes SM67. I really like the Chelseas. Almost, er, as nice as my Trickers, dash it! :icon_smile_wink::icon_smile_big:


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## XdryMartini (Jan 5, 2008)

I had a package waiting for me when I got home today.

Buccleugh
Polo Suede

SM67 - I really like the Fox Suede you version posted above!!! BEAUTIFUL color!! What else fm G&G might look good in suede? :icon_smile_big:


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## bengal-stripe (May 10, 2003)

Leather man said:


> You are right - there are these two ways - but as far as I know and have seen the english notched welt doesn't have huge stiches on it like the Vass - that's what I find off putting - but its just a matter of taste really.


Goiserer type welts (stitched on the outside) are known in England as 'Norwegian welts' and not common at all. 
(But very popular in Italy.)

A traditional storm welt is of the split-reverse variety, the (thicker) welt gets split halfway, the upper section 
is turned up against the shoe and the lower section is stitched underneath in the conventional way. 
A traditional shoemaker will cut that from the neck section of a hide.










Most factories will buy ready cut and formed welts in a continuous length.

Here the storm welt is formed in a way that a ridge presses against the shoe, the actual seam is again underneath the shoe.










A 'notched welt' is the same thing, just with decorative notches. You can find some in the catalogue.

Goiserer or Norwegian welts are different, they are stitched on the outside and the stitching is visible. 
Most Austro/Hungarian makers use rather large stitches as it safes time Vass says 1 cm (about 3/8"). 
I know one maker in Salzburg who uses stitches at about 1/8" and they are an absolute joy. 
It equally can be done by machine, some Alden styles employ a Norwegian-type welt.

As I said, that type of welting is not common in England, they would probably prefer to do 'Veltschoen' construction 
where the leather of the uppers gets turned to the outside.


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## Harrydog (Apr 2, 2005)

My Rothschilds arrived today.







Not the most comfortable out of the box; they are going to take some breaking in.


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

Leather man said:


> luk-cha you are a bad influence !! I've just emailed Dean - you know, " just out of curiosity!!"


not sure if dean would be the sest person to ask i think Tony would be - let know what the reply is anyway


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

Harrydog said:


> My Rothschilds arrived today.
> 
> Not the most comfortable out of the box; they are going to take some breaking in.


HD black shoes are generally stiffer out the box as it is some thing to do with the dying process of black leather but these look great FWIW:aportnoy:


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

bengal-stripe said:


> Goiserer type welts (stitched on the outside) are known in England as 'Norwegian welts' and not common at all.
> (But very popular in Italy.)
> 
> A traditional storm welt is of the split-reverse variety, the (thicker) welt gets split halfway, the upper section
> ...


Thanks Bengal - very informative indeed!


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

Harrydog said:


> My Rothschilds arrived today.
> 
> Not the most comfortable out of the box; they are going to take some breaking in.


Beautiful looking shoe! Which last are these on?DG70?


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

luk-cha said:


> not sure if dean would be the sest person to ask i think Tony would be - let know what the reply is anyway


I know but Dean deals with the MTOs mainly - he can always ask Tony I suppose - or he might be able to tell me straight away that they will get the leather for an MTO - well, there's an outside change anyway!!


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## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

speedster said:


> Could you please clarify difference chase/demi ... (exposed stormwelt etc)


A chasse and a demi-chasse are both split-toe bluchers (the style of the apron and toe seam is not important for this classification -- they both just have to be there). The difference between the two is the way the side panels and the quarters of the shoes are made. On a chasse, there is no seam separating the side panels from the quarters -- they're made from the same piece of leather. The prototypical chasse is the JM Weston Hunt shoe, but my favorite (of course) is the EG Dover:

On a demi-chasse, the side panels are made from different pieces of leather from the quarters. In other words, there is a seam separating the side panel from the quarter. The prototypical demi-chasse is the JM Weston 598, but I like Alden version too:

(The shoe pictured is a limited edition special make-up that Tom Park at did back in the spring.)

I don't know how widely used the chasse/demi-chasse terminology is among shoe geeks, but I like it because it communicates the design difference with very few words. The reason that I find the Isham's design interesting is that there is a seam, but it doesn't go down to the welt. In other words, the side panels go all the way to the heel, but it's still not a chasse. Very interesting and attractive, I think. And I'm a sucker for that style of apron and toe stitching.



Leather man said:


> What leather/colour did you order?


Exactly as on the sample shoe -- Rustic Arran Grain, double leather sole with a notched fudge welt, MH71 last. I'm having metal toe plates put in, and I requested the upper four sets of eyelets on each boot have the speed-lacer hooks.



luk-cha said:


> this is just asking to be made without a rear seam (sigh):icon_smile_wink:


I thought so, too; but if there weren't a seam, then that would mean that both side panels would be one piece of leather. That's a big piece of leather, and probably not the easiest thing in the world to do. I'd still like it to be that way, though.


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

I've not come across the "chasse/demichasse" terminology before but as you say it is very handy. 

I prefer the chasse I think, but as you say the Isham is really neither one nor the other and again like you I just love that side seam on them.

In the same way I very much like the seam on your new boot order on the side about the ankle - something about its sweep.

Those Dovers are beautiful - are they chestnut or bauxite?


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## Rossini (Oct 7, 2007)

HarryDog - beautiful, yet another endorsement of why its worth going high-end for black shoes.

LM & jcusey, don't you think there's something particularly spectacular about the Dover style in suede?


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

luk-cha said:


> well if you are lucky there might be some left over from my bespoke commission - so "be a devil" and ask them:icon_smile_wink:


Yippee!! Dean has emailed to say they are happy to make up an MTO shoe in pigskin.

I am now in discussions with Dean as to what style, last etc.

I absolutely love your derby full brogue but there's nothing like that in the MTO catalogue - and NO I am not going bespoke ( he he!)

I think this hide needs broguing and a casual style like a derby - so I am wondering about Buccleugh - not sure what last - either GG06 or MH71

Any advice gratefully received:icon_smile:


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

XdryMartini said:


> I had a package waiting for me when I got home today.
> 
> Buccleugh
> Polo Suede
> ...


What a great looking relaxed shoe - I don't know if the photos are representative of the colour (suede rarely photos true) but if they were mine I would be well pleased:icon_smile:


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## Harrydog (Apr 2, 2005)

Leather man said:


> Beautiful looking shoe! Which last are these on?DG70?


Yes, the DG 70 smart pointed.


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

Leather man said:


> Beautiful looking shoe! Which last are these on?DG70?


yes it is i like this last a lotit is much nice than the 82 IMO

oops too late!


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

Leather man said:


> Yippee!! Dean has emailed to say they are happy to make up an MTO shoe in pigskin.
> 
> I am now in discussions with Dean as to what style, last etc.
> 
> ...


well i dont know what i'd get again in pig skin, but if you are wanting a boot i think i'd do the thorpe also with a storm welt i think that would be the best in the tan pig skin if it was a shoe then well like you said my FB derby is not in available (only BS:devil, then i'd do a normal wing tip derby brogue


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

jcusey said:


> I thought so, too; but if there weren't a seam, then that would mean that both side panels would be one piece of leather. That's a big piece of leather, and probably not the easiest thing in the world to do. I'd still like it to be that way, though.












yup it would look something like this too but it would take a full peice for each pair of shoes i bet so it would be cheap i agree


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

luk-cha said:


> well i dont know what i'd get again in pig skin, but if you are wanting a boot i think i'd do the thorpe also with a storm welt i think that would be the best in the tan pig skin if it was a shoe then well like you said my FB derby is not in available (only BS:devil, then i'd do a normal wing tip derby brogue


G&G don't do a normal wing tip derby brogue unfortunately - plenty of wing tip oxfords though - but I am assuming pig skin cries out for a derby - because of the casual look.


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

Leather man said:


> G&G don't do a normal wing tip derby brogue unfortunately - plenty of wing tip oxfords though - but I am assuming pig skin cries out for a derby - because of the casual look.


well if it gonna be MTO you just ask them to switch the cap for a wing tip i am sure they could do it without being an issue!


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

luk-cha said:


> well if it gonna be MTO you just ask them to switch the cap for a wing tip i am sure they could do it without being an issue!


We will see


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## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

Leather man said:


> I
> Those Dovers are beautiful - are they chestnut or bauxite?


They're not mine -- I lifted the pic from the Style Forum shoe pictorial thread, which said that these were chestnut. I believe that the ultimate source of the picture was an auction on the yahoo.jp site. (Incidentally, that's a goldmine of pictures of beautiful and interesting shoes. We owe a debt of gratitude to the Japanese shoe enthusiasts, who have done more than their part in keeping these makers in business and in pushing them to innovate while maintaining or improving quality.)



Rossini said:


> LM & jcusey, don't you think there's something particularly spectacular about the Dover style in suede?


I've always hesitated to do a shoe with Dover-style apron and toe stitching in suede. I love that stitching, and I want to see it; but I fear that it would be camouflaged by the nap of the suede.


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## Ay329 (Sep 22, 2007)

luk-cha said:


> well if it gonna be MTO you just ask them to switch the cap for a wing tip i am sure they could do it without being an issue!


It appears a mere switch might not be a minor change for them anymore and you might get some resistance...just be persistent

As a side note, maybe miracles do happen and my Barclays will have some faux laces to offend everyone on this forum


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

*Pics of Isham sole and welt as promised*

Hi Speedster - here are the pics you asked for. My camera is basic so I couldn't get a better pic of the welt but Luc-chas pic of the back of the shoe gives you the idea.

As you can see the sole is beautifully finished - as indeed one would expect with this class of shoe - but is not significantly bevelled - being a double sole. I don't know if its technically possible but I've never seen it done. There is a very slightly bevelling on this sole - slight as in the amount you get with Edward Green single soles , but of course one doesn't buy a heavy shoe for its finesse! For all that this is a beautiful shoe!


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

luk-cha said:


> yup it would look something like this too but it would take a full peice for each pair of shoes i bet so it would be cheap i agree


I've seen your pics of this one before in a discussion about Vintage Cherry - this is one heck of a shoe! What fabulous workmanship ( can we still say that?) - wow - one piece of leather all the way round to the toe! I know other makers do it too - but not many!


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## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

Leather man said:


> As you can see the sole is beautifully finished - as indeed one would expect with this class of shoe - but is not significantly bevelled - being a double sole. I don't know if its technically possible but I've never seen it done. There is a very slightly bevelling on this sole - slight as in the amount you get with Edward Green single soles , but of course one doesn't buy a heavy shoe for its finesse! For all that this is a beautiful shoe!


When considering the detailing for my Thorpe boot, I asked whether G&G could do what EG calls a HAF sole, where there's a double sole at the toe and forefoot that tapers down to a single sole at the waist. My thought was that that single sole could be beveled as they do on their regular single sole shoes. The answer (once Tom Park managed to communicate to Dean what in the heck I was talking about) was that they could do this, but I quickly decided that Thorpe would look stupid done up like this.


----------



## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

jcusey said:


> When considering the detailing for my Thorpe boot, I asked whether G&G could do what EG calls a HAF sole, where there's a double sole at the toe and forefoot that tapers down to a single sole at the waist. My thought was that that single sole could be beveled as they do on their regular single sole shoes. The answer (once Tom Park managed to communicate to Dean what in the heck I was talking about) was that they could do this, but I quickly decided that Thorpe would look stupid done up like this.


Good decision I think. Thorpe cries out for a double sole IMO. I have the Canterbury on order in Vintage Rioja on a single sole because I wanted a smart looking boot.:icon_smile:

Still, interesting to know they can do what you had in mind - for future reference.


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## speedster (Jan 13, 2008)

jcusey said:


> When considering the detailing for my Thorpe boot, I asked whether G&G could do what EG calls a HAF sole, where there's a double sole at the toe and forefoot that tapers down to a single sole at the waist. My thought was that that single sole could be beveled as they do on their regular single sole shoes. They could do this, but I quickly decided that Thorpe would look stupid done up like this.





Leather man said:


> Good decision I think. Thorpe cries out for a double sole IMO. I have the Canterbury on order in Vintage Rioja on a single sole because I wanted a smart looking boot.:icon_smile:
> 
> Still, interesting to know they can do what you had in mind - for future reference.


+1 
How about their new ARRAN, was tinking of one ... 
Tom has a Beautiful EG online :icon_cheers: 
I think the same aplied to the ARRAN would be a beautiful winter boot ...
Possibly with a HAF derivative


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

Leather man said:


> I've seen your pics of this one before in a discussion about Vintage Cherry - this is one heck of a shoe! What fabulous workmanship ( can we still say that?) - wow - one piece of leather all the way round to the toe! I know other makers do it too - but not many!


i have not seen anyone make a Norwegian in this way be i thort i had the only shoe:devil:

i think i have a shot of the pattern somewhere i will have to have a look for it!


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## Rossini (Oct 7, 2007)

*Astaire, arrived today*










I'm pleased finally to be able to join this thread in an official capacity!










I'm slightly shocked by the waist, not having seen it in person before now. It's extraordinary, almost ugly from the direct side-on view, as it protrudes below the sole but exquisite at the same time. And beautiful from underneath. Is it actually providing the extra support that I feel?










I wasn't 100% sure about the mole suede and pin grain when I placed my order but now I can see why it's a RTW option. It seems to be a lovely balance for a more casual oxford.










When wearing these shoes, they seem almost cushioned with a great deal of support. In terms of fit, this DG70 last seems much more like the Vass "F" last than the Edward Green '888'. I could not get them on without a shoe horn (like the "F" last, the heel seems to curve into the shoe, making entry more difficult) but, once on, they fit like a glove and are incredibly comfortable.










I must remember not to polish the mole suede! :icon_smile:


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

First of all , welcome to the club! Secondly what a beautiful pair of shoes! I think the Astaire is the nicest "Autumn Spectator" I've ever seen. Your photos are very well done and show the shoe off in a much better light than the catalogue.

I do think the waist gives you extra support, yes.

Congratulations! I suspect you are a very happy man today!


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## LaoHu (Sep 16, 2006)

*Reaching for my wallet......*



Rossini said:


> I must remember not to polish the mole suede! :icon_smile:


The AlanC Aldens, the Tom Park LS/AAAC Aldens, Manton's new specs on SF, and now these.... Whew!! I'm getting a real case of spectator fever.....


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## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

Rossini said:


>


It's an epidemic of dark leather and dark suede combination shoes, I tell you! First were XdryMartini's EG burnt pine and coffee suede Plymouths, then the proposed LS/AA spectator in dark brown calf and snuff suede modeled on those, then these G&G shoes, then the BB Peal boots that arrived on my doorstep this morning (thank you for braving Tropical Storm Edouard, Mr. FedEx guy):

These don't have the elegance of the other three, but not bad for $200.

(I assume that you got those shoes from the G&G eBay sale a couple of weeks ago. I was sorely tempted but ultimately decided not to spend the money. Now I regret it. The shoes are beautiful.)


----------



## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

jcusey said:


> It's an epidemic of dark leather and dark suede combination shoes, I tell you! First were XdryMartini's EG burnt pine and coffee suede Plymouths, then the proposed LS/AA spectator in dark brown calf and snuff suede modeled on those, then these G&G shoes, then the BB Peal boots that arrived on my doorstep this morning (thank you for braving Tropical Storm Edouard, Mr. FedEx guy):
> 
> These don't have the elegance of the other three, but not bad for $200.
> 
> (I assume that you got those shoes from the G&G eBay sale a couple of weeks ago. I was sorely tempted but ultimately decided not to spend the money. Now I regret it. The shoes are beautiful.)


Very nice boots! $200 dollars - how can it be that's only £100!  You can only buy plastic shoes for that over here


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

I have a feeling Rossini has paid full price for these beauties - I seem to remember him telling us he'd ordered them. However we now wait with baited breath for the answer!


----------



## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

Leather man said:


> Very nice boots! $200 dollars - how can it be that's only £100! You can only buy plastic shoes for that over here


Thank you. They were 60% off on clearance -- regular price was $528. They're not worth anywhere close to $528, but I think they offer good value at $200.


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## speedster (Jan 13, 2008)

jcusey said:


> Thank you. They were 60% off on clearance -- regular price was $528. They're not worth anywhere close to $528, but I think they offer good value at $200.


 They are Peal for BB arnt they, does the nail pattern on the heels etc match AS?


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## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

speedster said:


> They are Peal for BB arnt they, does the nail pattern on the heels etc match AS?


They are. The soles are Dainite, so I can't do the nail pattern trick. I still suspect that they're made by AS (or at least, not C&J) on the basis of the interior markings.


----------



## Rossini (Oct 7, 2007)

Leather man said:


> First of all , welcome to the club! Secondly what a beautiful pair of shoes! I think the Astaire is the nicest "Autumn Spectator" I've ever seen. Your photos are very well done and show the shoe off in a much better light than the catalogue.
> 
> I do think the waist gives you extra support, yes.
> 
> Congratulations! I suspect you are a very happy man today!


Thanks Leather man, yes I'm really pleased with it having had some hesitation to start. And thank you for the compliment on the photos. I decided the detail required a bit more attention this time, glad it is appreciated. Interesting about the function of the waist. Is this widely recognised as an attribute of these types of waists?



jcusey said:


> It's an epidemic of dark leather and dark suede combination shoes, I tell you!
> 
> (I assume that you got those shoes from the G&G eBay sale a couple of weeks ago. I was sorely tempted but ultimately decided not to spend the money. Now I regret it. The shoes are beautiful.)


I love your boots too; really unusual and what a bargain! I do think the dark/dark combination is an excellent starting point for spectators. I think it could revive the genre with a wider audience as it is obviously not so pronounced and therefore less "flashy" (as some would consider spectators). I'd love to see one with an even closer match in colour to see how it would turn out. If i ever got round to commissioning such an item, I'd call it Rossini's stealth spectator. :icon_smile:



Leather man said:


> I have a feeling Rossini has paid full price for these beauties - I seem to remember him telling us he'd ordered them. However we now wait with baited breath for the answer!


Well, how to answer?! If I got them cheap, I feel like I've cheated a bit. If I paid full price, perhaps I missed a bargain. A dilemma! Well, LM, yes I did say I was expecting them (though not that I had ordered them) and jcusey, yes they are from the eBay auction. The shame!


----------



## Simon Myerson (Nov 8, 2007)

No shame at all! And, as Leather Man says, _so _much nicer than on the website/in the catalogue. I could have had a pair of these in last year's sale and I decided not because I could see no need for them. Boy, was that a crappy decision.

I agree about the heel and waist - having just got the Hayes I felt the same. I suspect I have never had a really well made pair of shoes before.

Wear in good health and smartly - the latter is a given .


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## jjl5000 (May 14, 2006)

Rossini said:


>


Congats Ross. I think they look great! :icon_smile:


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

Rossini said:


> I'm pleased finally to be able to join this thread in an official capacity!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


great photo's hhmm the astire is growning on me but i still fancy it as the polo suade and chestnut pingrain - but like others have said welcome to the club.

i like the DG70 alot and yes i feel the fit is close to the F-last too and very bespoke feeling!


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

Leather man said:


> We will see


LM what about a chukka boot in the tan pig skin??


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

luk-cha said:


> LM what about a chukka boot in the tan pig skin??


No, I definitely want a derby. I think a chukka could be too much pig skin.

I've spoken to Dean and he is sending me some swatches so I can decide which colour to have - its between a mid brown and tan. There's going to be an upcharge on this one because they are buying in the skin especially for me as its not a normal MTO skin. Because Tony will be away for two weeks and Dean is away for a week too I won't hear any more now until the end of August - but I'd rather get this one right so waiting isn't a problem.

At the moment I am rather fancying either Wells, Derwent or Wiltshire in the pig skin, but its so hard to decide what will look best.


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## LeatherSOUL (May 8, 2005)

Don't forget about my Falkirks! I love 2 tones!


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

LeatherSOUL said:


> Don't forget about my Falkirks! I love 2 tones!


I've often admired these on your website! Thanks for posting pics of your new orders - I mean one offs - of course you will post pics of the shoes you are selling:icon_smile_wink:

Your Falkirks look like a wonderful Autumn/Spring shoe - though I am not sure how that applies in Hawaii


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

Leather man said:


> No, I definitely want a derby. I think a chukka could be too much pig skin.
> 
> I've spoken to Dean and he is sending me some swatches so I can decide which colour to have - its between a mid brown and tan. There's going to be an upcharge on this one because they are buying in the skin especially for me as its not a normal MTO skin. Because Tony will be away for two weeks and Dean is away for a week too I won't hear any more now until the end of August - but I'd rather get this one right so waiting isn't a problem.
> 
> At the moment I am rather fancying either Wells, Derwent or Wiltshire in the pig skin, but its so hard to decide what will look best.


for me i would go with the derwent for its simle clean elegance - i might keep the chukka in mind for myself thro:idea:


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

luk-cha said:


> for me i would go with the derwent for its simle clean elegance - i might keep the chukka in mind for myself thro:idea:


Thanks for the input:icon_smile:


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

Leather man said:


> Thanks for the input:icon_smile:


welcome i think it on the MH 71 it will be awesome!


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## fritzl (Jun 5, 2006)

Leather man said:


> What do you mean fritzl?


It is still not exactly, what I "mean". But I'll add it to the mix. :icon_smile:

source: on the courtesy of CCM, styleandtheman.eu


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

luk-cha said:


> welcome i think it on the MH 71 it will be awesome!


Tony sent me a swatch of tan pig skin - great colour - looks warmer than your pics - guess that could be the camera.

So, I rang Dean ( Tony is now away on hols) and he knew about the swatch etc. So I have ordered the Derwent on MH71 in tan pig skin.

Dean says I am the very first MTO customer who has even asked for pig skin - so a plaque will go up on my study wall I think:icon_smile_big:


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

Leather man said:


> Tony sent me a swatch of tan pig skin - great colour - looks warmer than your pics - guess that could be the camera.
> 
> So, I rang Dean ( Tony is now away on hols) and he knew about the swatch etc. So I have ordered the Derwent on MH71 in tan pig skin.
> 
> Dean says I am the very first MTO customer who has even asked for pig skin - so a plaque will go up on my study wall I think:icon_smile_big:


well done! i bet my picture will be up on G&G's staff dart board! haha!

mine was antiqued perhaps a little darker than i'd imagine but i have polished them a few times with the tan wax i got with them so it has warmed them back up a little plus i have got some congac cream for them too wich will help too this was what they looked like at the half way stage








so i guess your sample is close to this?

bt also in the phote of the finished shoes the colors of both of them are a little washed out!


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## fritzl (Jun 5, 2006)

You could have saved them for a Derby last. :devil:


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

luk-cha said:


> well done! i bet my picture will be up on G&G's staff dart board! haha!
> 
> mine was antiqued perhaps a little darker than i'd imagine but i have polished them a few times with the tan wax i got with them so it has warmed them back up a little plus i have got some congac cream for them too wich will help too this was what they looked like at the half way stage
> 
> ...


Yes my sample looks exactly like this. As it came directly from Tony I suspect it is an off-cut of your beloved leather:aportnoy:

I could not understand why your finished shoes looked two shades lighter, rather than darker from the half way stage - thanks for explaining this to me.


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## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

fritzl said:


> It is still not exactly, what I "mean". But I'll add it to the mix. :icon_smile:
> 
> source: on the courtesy of CCM, styleandtheman.eu


What leather is used on this? Is it really gray, or is that just a trick of the camera?

In any event, I do like this style of split-toe blucher, too -- I have a pair of Vasses in dark brown Scotch grain calf with a rubber lug sole in essentially the same pattern. I am perfectly ecumenical when it comes to split-toe bluchers.


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## fritzl (Jun 5, 2006)

jcusey said:


> What leather is used on this? Is it really gray, or is that just a trick of the camera?
> 
> In any event, I do like this style of split-toe blucher, too -- I have a pair of Vasses in dark brown Scotch grain calf with a rubber lug sole in essentially the same pattern. I am perfectly ecumenical when it comes to split-toe bluchers.


John, I'll invite fellow member Camlot to this discussion. He has to increase his post number :icon_smile:


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

Leather man said:


> Yes my sample looks exactly like this. As it came directly from Tony I suspect it is an off-cut of your beloved leather:aportnoy:
> 
> I could not understand why your finished shoes looked two shades lighter, rather than darker from the half way stage - thanks for explaining this to me.


yup it was the D Brown wax and cream i think thank was used in the antiquing process.

it more like its unpolished self now - it is a awesome color! cant wait to see yours soon!


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

fritzl said:


> You could have saved them for a Derby last. :devil:


ic12337:


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## Camlot (Feb 16, 2007)

*"Stones" - not a new PhotoShop Trick, but a new Colour*



jcusey said:


> What leather is used on this? Is it really gray, or is that just a trick of the camera?
> 
> In any event, I do like this style of split-toe blucher, too -- I have a pair of Vasses in dark brown Scotch grain calf with a rubber lug sole in essentially the same pattern. I am perfectly ecumenical when it comes to split-toe bluchers.





fritzl said:


> John, I'll invite fellow member Camlot to this discussion. *He has to increase his post number* :icon_smile:


Eventually you're right, Ol' Pal _Fritzl_. Although I have avoided posting until now like Louis Zypher avoids the Holy Water. :devil:

Fearing an overrush of the sophisticated dressers from Nippon and the States , my small enterprise not suited to manage immense quantities of orders on custom made suits, shirts and footwear.....

Seriously, "Stones" is not another example of a Photo Shop trick, but a new colour, which i created together with my french supplier of fine calfleather. In a strong, masculine Scotch Grain it is very nice and outstanding for sportive shoes, in the also available subtle Fine Grain or smoothy plain this colour looks very distinguished in the company of all kinds of grey or charcoal worsteds and flannels.
"Stones" is not a too dark kind of grey but also not that pale or light to look too womanish. But also not too dark, because a very dark grey on shoes appears often as a "shabby" or "weak" black.
_Fritzl's _pic shows the Modell "Norge" - handcrafted to order like every pair of shoes from Camlots' Custom Made - but "Stones" is available for all our other types of gentlemens footwear, too. 
btw - one can choose all kinds of soles alternatively to the shown version with "Vibram"- rubber sole.

y.t.

*Camlot*


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

camlot are you a shoemaker then??


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## fritzl (Jun 5, 2006)

Camlot said:


> Seriously, "Stones" is not another example of a Photo Shop trick, but a new colour...


New or not, it's a perfect alteration for somebody, who has covered the basics.

The "Norweger" is, at least, a shoe style for casual wear. That's exactly the field, where you can play around with colours and textures.

Would be interesting, if pigskin is available in "Stones"? :icon_smile: :idea:


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

fritzl said:


> New or not, it's a perfect alteration for somebody, who has covered the basics.
> 
> The "Norweger" is, at least, a shoe style for casual wear. That's exactly the field, where you can play around with colours and textures.
> 
> Would be interesting, if pigskin is available in "Stones"? :icon_smile: :idea:


yes i agree there is a Kudu Norweigan in G&G BS gallery so Fritzl perhaps G&G are waiting for you to do the pig skin version:devil:


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## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

luk-cha said:


> yes i agree there is a Kudu Norweigan in G&G BS gallery so Fritzl perhaps G&G are waiting for you to do the pig skin version:devil:


I don't know if there are pictures of them anywhere on the web, but I do know that Tony did make a Budapester-style pair of shoes for one of his clients once, complete with the distinctive Budapest-style last. I think that he found it challenging, both because he had never done something stylistically similar before and because he didn't particularly care for the aesthetic. I imagine he was fighting himself the whole way.


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

jcusey said:


> I don't know if there are pictures of them anywhere on the web, but I do know that Tony did make a Budapester-style pair of shoes for one of his clients once, complete with the distinctive Budapest-style last. I think that he found it challenging, both because he had never done something stylistically similar before and because he didn't particularly care for the aesthetic. I imagine he was fighting himself the whole way.












is this the one?


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## fritzl (Jun 5, 2006)

luk-cha said:


> yes i agree there is a Kudu Norweigan in G&G BS gallery so Fritzl perhaps G&G are waiting for you to do the pig skin version:devil:


If you will cover the gap between C. and T., we can talk about it.


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## luk-cha (Apr 29, 2006)

fritzl said:


> If you will cover the gap between C. (cover)T., we can talk about it.


fixed!


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## Camlot (Feb 16, 2007)

luk-cha said:


> camlot are you a shoemaker then??


Hi _luk-cha, _thanks for asking !
Camlots' Custom Made, it's roots in Graz, the heart of Styria in Austria, tries to make narrower the gap between mto-shoes and bespoke shoes. Up to now there is only a small range of models existing, these models but covering the main playgrounds of gentlemens footwear by including the most significant archetypes in a slightly modernized shape, based on traditional (old) Viennese lasts and on English lasts. 
Each clients feet are measured exactly or the customers can do that themselves by using the sent self-measuring-forms.
Then our two Head-Shoemakers, one of them also an Orthopedist Shoe Maker will find the right last nearest to the results of the measurings and , if necessary, pieces of a very hard leather material will be fixed to the choosen last , so to create a very personal last for the client. The alterations then will be archived for further orders. 
The result is, in most cases, a shoe one can call nearly bespoke.
All CCM-shoes are made-to-order and fully handcrafted. 
Camlots' Custom Made - called CCM by friends and aficionados - is also very proud of it's so called LDB-suits , LDB standing short for Long Distance Bespoke, a kind of Made-To-Measure, but not based on fixed templates, as MTM normaly is. Luxurious Shirts, made-to-measure or bespoke are another highlight of CCM's, the range of fabrics to chose from even including rare old-mill-weaves from England, inherited from a late uncle.

y.t., Camlot


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