# Making your own sized bow ties



## hbecklin (Aug 22, 2007)

I know this topic has been discussed before, however I don't believe anyone created anything they were happy with. While as of today, I have created a bow tie, which I very much like, from TWO old ties which were too short for me. 

Drumroll, please!
If you have ties lying around your closet which you just wish could be made into bow ties? Do you want to get an idea for how bow ties are made? Do you want to have a sized bow tie, without that annoying adjuster? If you answered yes to any or all of these answers, then making your own bow tie is for YOU!

This process, which uses a sewing machine, a few common sewing products, and old ties, is fun and takes about an afternoon from start to finish. For those who are indebted to handmade products, neither me, nor my grandmother, who assisted me in this project, had the skills nor the stamina to make this by hand. My grandmother, an 80 year old swiss woman who is as sharp as a tack and very agile, and who made all of my mother and her sibling's clothes until they were in 8th grade, said that the machine would make a much stronger product in the end. I believe her, even though all of my favorite bow ties have the "handmade in the USA tag".

Materials Needed:
2 Ties (or about 1 yard of fabric)

A seam ripper
An iron
An ironing board
A sewing machine & necessary accouterments (or spool of thread & 
A letter opener or chopstick

1. Find two "long" ties- these are your front and back pieces.

2. Take these two long ties and remove all parts of them making them a "tie"- the sewing along the back (using your seam ripper), the interfacing, and the lining. This will leave you with 2 long pieces of silk. For those of you who enjoy thick bow ties (ones as thick as regular ties), save your interfacing.

3. Iron these piece of silk. This will leave you with two long, FLAT, pieces of silk.

4. Download and print the pattern. Make sure this is TO SCALE and the type of tie you want- thistle or bat wing (I assume you could make a diamond point, theoretically, but I haven't tried with this pattern). Then print the pattern (twice, for both ends of the tie) and add paper as needed in the middle to make your tie the correct length (you should take this from a bow tie you already own that fits and put it up against your pattern

5. Pin the pattern to one piece of silk, and cut it out with pinking shears.

6. Pin the pattern to the other piece of silk, and cut it out with pinking shears.

7. Pin the pieces together, with the sides you want on the outside of the tie in the end facing inside (your tie is inside out, essentially).

8. Sit down at your sewing machine and sew around the whole tie. Make sure you leave about a seven inch gap in the center of the tie (the part that goes behind your shirt collar) to turn the tie the other way around. I recommend sewing around the tie quite close to the edge the first time, and then sewing around it again a little closer to the center, but still making certain that the tie has the seven inch gap.

9. Use the letter opener or chopstick to turn the bow tie around. Since the "good" side of the fabric is inside your bow tie now, you need to turn it around. Use your fingers to slowly work the fabric up and through the hole. Once you get to the edges, make them more defined by pushing the fabric with the chopstick. Do this with both sides.

10. Give your bow tie a quick look around for quality control. Make sure there are no holes, or any irregularities. Once you complete the next step, your bow tie will not be able to be sewn again.

10.5 If you used a thin foulard, you may want to add interfacing. Take the two pieces of interfacing from the original ties, and sew them together. Then trace around the current tie, and cut the interfacing out. Work it into your tie using your chopstick, and make sure it's all straitened out.

11. Sew closed the seven inch gap. As you can't get inside of it, the seam has to be on the outside. However, because this is in the back of the tie, where no one will see it, and because your thread color should be very close to the color of the tie, it won't matter even if you wear this formally. Fold over both sides, so the pinked edges are inside, and sew.

12. This may be the most difficult step. Iron your bow tie, making certain that your tie shape is the same and that the whole desired exposed part is exposed. Due to the nature of the seams, often parts of the tie will want to disappear inside of the tie and get ironed that way. Don't let them.

13. Pat yourself on the back. You just made yourself a bow tie!

I'd love to see if any of you can decipher my instructions. As I didn't know this would be such a roaring success, I didn't take pictures the first time, but I am making another tomorrow and will take pictures.

The best of luck!

Hans


----------



## SouthernBeau (Aug 15, 2007)

Wow sounds fairly straight forward would love to see some before during and after shots should you decide to do this again.


----------



## EastVillageTrad (May 12, 2006)

Beau Ties Ltd in Vermont does it w/ one tie and pieces it together...very nicely done, I have a couple of these.



Also, you need a lining in your ties.


----------



## hbecklin (Aug 22, 2007)

EVT,

I'm not certain how the people at Beau Ties do this... it may have to do with the adjuster and the silk not from the tie that they add (I believe it's black)... I thought about doing it that way but decided against it, seeing that the all one piece work might be more intriguing. Also, Beau ties says they need a minimum tie width, and all of the ties I have been using are ones that don't fit me.... due to my height. 

Also, I did put interfacing in the one I made, the fabric was it was thin and flimsy. I thought about making one out of a tweed at some point and was wondering, though, if it needed interfacing. My gut feeling says no, it doesn't NEED it, because the tweed is wool (just like better interfacing) and is heavy enough as it is. Because all of my wool ties are made out of sheerer wool (like you would make pants out of), and not out of tweed, I wasn't sure.

The pictures will be up tomorrow. I'll try to add some of the making of it, too.


----------



## A.Squire (Apr 5, 2006)

Do you have any Dutch oven recipes? WTF, LOL are you really making bow ties? I'll withold judgment till I see the photos and they better be good.:teacha:


----------



## Duck (Jan 4, 2007)

I am wearing a bow and making a martini. Close?


----------



## A.Squire (Apr 5, 2006)

Duck said:


> *I am wearing a bow and making a martini*. Close?


At this hour? Who wears a tie this late?


----------



## Thom Browne's Schooldays (Jul 29, 2007)

Hmmm, that pattern looks way, way too small.

I was a couple credits shy last semester and ended up taking a sewing class to cover them.
I made a pattern and harvested some adjuster hardware from some 50 cent thrift store bows.


----------



## hbecklin (Aug 22, 2007)

Thom Browne's Schooldays said:


> Hmmm, that pattern looks way, way too small.


Actually, the pattern on the LA times' website is very screwed up- make sure you're printing it to it's original scale... it may still look slim line, so when you're sewing, take a little bit less for seam allowance- you'll also make it easier when you put the lining in.

Here are some pictures:

The tie

The tie, tied blackwatch side out

The tie, tied foulard side out

Enjoy! There'll be more pictures later today, after I make my second tie.


----------



## Joe Tradly (Jan 21, 2006)

I wouldn't have thought the "reversable" bow tie would have worked, but those two patterns look quite nice together.

JB


----------



## wnh (Nov 4, 2006)

Fantastic! I've got a jacket in a beautiful wool plaid that I thrifted in order to harvest the buttons -- the jacket is too large for me -- and I've wanted something to do with the fabric. Now I've got it.


----------



## hbecklin (Aug 22, 2007)

wnh- Once you do this, please report- I've got similar jackets that don't fit me but were used for other purposes- but I'm not sure about the fabric on them.

I didn't realize this until I posted, but both of these tying jobs could have used a bit of tweaking. Oh well. I guess it's good enough for forum work.


----------



## paper clip (May 15, 2006)

Interesting post. Thanks for making it, Hans. I, too, doubted the two different sided bow, but it does look good. 

I just hope no one says - "that must be a Tommy Hilfiger bow!"


----------



## Duck (Jan 4, 2007)

A.Squire said:


> At this hour? Who wears a tie this late?


It was a late dinner. Kiss the wife when you walk the door, pat the dogs on the head and shake until it is carbonated.

Dogs are fine uncle


----------



## hbecklin (Aug 22, 2007)

Goodness me, I hope they wouldn't say that. Tommy Hilfiger's ties have never been my favorite- also, you can't convert them like I did due to the different tipping. The tie I made today was (mostly) a failure. It was going great until the lining I picked was way to thick, and now the bow won't tie correctly. Oh well. I'll either take the lining out or give the tie away to someone with a small neck. But now, I am attempting to make a bow tie without the machine- truly a hand made bow tie! I will document the trials and tribulations of this process. If I'm lucky, this will be done in the near future.


----------



## wnh (Nov 4, 2006)

Here's my little creation, though not two-sided. Took a probably 6-7 hours total, which isn't bad considering it's completely handsewn. And it helped to have a movie on during the process -- in this case, Thirteen Days. The tie is Lands' End. I picked it up from the overstocks a couple of years ago for $4.00, but it's a long so I always had to tuck the back blade in my shirt to keep it from hanging below the front of the tie. Tied kind of crappily, but there you have it.


----------



## fenway (May 2, 2006)

wnh said:


> Here's my little creation, though not two-sided. Took a probably 6-7 hours total, which isn't bad considering it's completely handsewn. And it helped to have a movie on during the process -- in this case, Thirteen Days. The tie is Lands' End. I picked it up from the overstocks a couple of years ago for $4.00, but it's a long so I always had to tuck the back blade in my shirt to keep it from hanging below the front of the tie. Tied kind of crappily, but there you have it.


Wow! Nothing to say but she's a beauty! Well done and congrats!


----------



## hbecklin (Aug 22, 2007)

Wow. That is spectacular, I must say. I made another one out of a canvas bag (handsewn) and it turned out very well- I am now going to do a repp stripe of my father's- it should be wide enough to provide for both sides. I have to ask, though, what kind of lining did you use? The regular tie linings that I have found have been much too thick, at least to compare to Hanauer's or BB's.


----------



## wnh (Nov 4, 2006)

fenway and hbecklin, thank you. I actually didn't use a lining. The bow is a little on the floppy side, but the silk felt substantial enough not to need anything. I've taken apart three ties so far for conversion, and though I haven't looked too carefully at the lining in each one I think that at least one had a lining that consisted of a few layers, so I could use one of those layers for a thinner lining.

Next up is a madras bow, and I know I'll have to use lining in that. I'll let you know (with pictures, maybe) what I end up doing.


----------



## EastVillageTrad (May 12, 2006)

wnh said:


> Here's my little creation, though not two-sided. Took a probably 6-7 hours total, which isn't bad considering it's completely handsewn. And it helped to have a movie on during the process -- in this case, Thirteen Days. The tie is Lands' End. I picked it up from the overstocks a couple of years ago for $4.00, but it's a long so I always had to tuck the back blade in my shirt to keep it from hanging below the front of the tie. Tied kind of crappily, but there you have it.


Well done indeed, what did you use for interfacing?

Thirteen Days is okay, not great.


----------



## mdellison (Sep 24, 2005)

Excellent tie!


----------



## wnh (Nov 4, 2006)

EastVillageTrad said:


> Well done indeed, what did you use for interfacing?


No lining/interfacing, since the silk was hefty enough. It could have used some, but it's fine without.

Another note: rather than print the template linked above, I took a bow of my own and traced around it on the back side of the silk, then cut out the silk about half an inch outside of the tracing. When I went to sew the two pieces of silk, I sewed along the line that I drew. However, a certain amount of fabric was lost doing this so that the end result was narrower than my 'inspiration' bow. If you do this, I'd recommend leaving some room between the line you trace and the bow you're using as a pattern rather than tracing right next to the pattern bow, so the end result will be the same size as the pattern bow. And don't trace the bow exactly and just sew outside of that line, since the ink could bleed through to the front of the tie. Does that make sense?



> Thirteen Days is okay, not great.


I agree. I saw it a couple of years ago, and picked it up at the library last week hoping for some good 60's clothing, but was underwhelmed. Certainly watchable, but not was I was hoping for.


----------



## EastVillageTrad (May 12, 2006)

Interesting, I might have to try this with an old tie.

Yes, and Costner's faked Boston accent is horrid.


----------



## wnh (Nov 4, 2006)

For your amusement:




This picture is actually quite generous; the real thing looks 10 times worse. I cut up a thrifted heavy tweed jacket for this. The pattern is fantastic, but the wool is waaaay too thick to be used for the entire bow. I sewed it up to within 5 or 6 inches in the back, then had to disassemble almost the entire thing to turn it inside out. I think I'll try to redo this one sometime relatively soon, but only using the tweed on the front side, using something as thin as possible on the reverse and for the long skinny part.


----------



## Thom Browne's Schooldays (Jul 29, 2007)

hbecklin said:


> Actually, the pattern on the LA times' website is very screwed up- make sure you're printing it to it's original scale... it may still look slim line, so when you're sewing, take a little bit less for seam allowance- you'll also make it easier when you put the lining in.


How do you print it to the original scale?
I tried it a few months ago and it kept coming out really, really small.

wnh- really impressive esp. considering that you're hand sewing them.


----------



## Joe Tradly (Jan 21, 2006)

wnh said:


> I think I'll try to redo this one sometime relatively soon, but only using the tweed on the front side, using something as thin as possible on the reverse and for the long skinny part.


Like a navy blue silk paisley. Would look awesome!

JB


----------



## wnh (Nov 4, 2006)

Joe Tradly said:


> Like a navy blue silk paisley. Would look awesome!
> 
> JB


I thought I might try something as neutral as possible, since part of the fabric used on the back side will show around the edges, as seen in hbecklin's photographs. I wonder if a sliver of navy paisley will look odd outlining heavy brown/orange tweed.


----------



## Joe Tradly (Jan 21, 2006)

wnh said:


> I thought I might try something as neutral as possible, since part of the fabric used on the back side will show around the edges, as seen in hbecklin's photographs. I wonder if a sliver of navy paisley will look odd outlining heavy brown/orange tweed.


Good point. I didn't look closely enough at the heavy orange accents in that tweed.

But I do think a navy silk would look good. Essentially, any tie that would look classic with the jacket you cut up, would be good for the backing, I would think. Even an orange rep stripe? Would be fun to experiment with. I'm sure you have lots of the tweed.

JB


----------



## Topsider (Jul 9, 2005)

A.Squire said:


> At this hour? Who wears a tie this late?


Never mind that...he's drinking a martini at nearly 11pm on a weeknight. My kinda guy! :drunken_smilie:


----------



## A.Squire (Apr 5, 2006)

A.Squire said:


> Do you have any Dutch oven recipes? WTF, LOL are you really making bow ties? I'll withold judgment till I see the photos and they better be good.:teacha:


quoting myself here, I know. good job, gents. color me surprised and somewhat envious, you've far exceeded my expectations.


----------



## wnh (Nov 4, 2006)

Second attempt to tackle the heavy tweed. This time I took apart a $0.25 thrifted wool knit tie to use on the back, but it's still a little too thick. The pieces of tweed I used for the blades were cut from right under the jacket's pockets, and since the jacket is fused there was no way for me to remove the interfacing. I think I'll take another stab at it with some fabric cut from an unlined part of the jacket, in hopes that that fabric will be thin enough to work properly.


----------



## JordanW (Jan 8, 2007)

hbecklin said:


> The tie, tied blackwatch side out
> 
> The tie, tied foulard side out


You know, reading the title of this thread I honestly found it ridiculous and hadn't even given it a look until now.

I'm impressed. Good job, hbecklin. You know, you could do quite well for yourself on the thrift exchange with those.


----------



## JordanW (Jan 8, 2007)

wnh said:


>


Looking good. Silk backing may give you the proper thickness.


----------



## Tom Buchanan (Nov 7, 2005)

wnh said:


> Second attempt to tackle the heavy tweed. This time I took apart a $0.25 thrifted wool knit tie to use on the back, but it's still a little too thick. The pieces of tweed I used for the blades were cut from right under the jacket's pockets, and since the jacket is fused there was no way for me to remove the interfacing. I think I'll take another stab at it with some fabric cut from an unlined part of the jacket, in hopes that that fabric will be thin enough to work properly.


wnh,

Are you actually hand stitching these together (as in needle and thread)? If so, you are quick.


----------



## wnh (Nov 4, 2006)

Tom Buchanan said:


> wnh,
> 
> Are you actually hand stitching these together (as in needle and thread)? If so, you are quick.


Yes, but probably not too terribly well. Well enough to hold it together, but not the quality you'd find in a real hand-sewn bow.


----------



## DiogenesClub (May 4, 2008)

First of all, I would like to commend you on your creations. God knows, this country needs people like you as we no longer produce or create and just import. That's what has us in the predicament which we now face. End of economic, melancholic rant.

Now, I have some constructive tips:

1. Buy yo'self a pattern--don't use the internet freebie unless you want to look like Pee-Wee. It's not wide enough. Visit the fabric store in town, put your wife up to it, or order online. I have done the research for you: McCalls4321 if you want an adjustable slide (which is a must) or KwikSew3183 if you want buttons (also a must). You will need access to a machine for the buttonholes on the KwikSew--be forewarned. Steer clear of Vogue patterns unless you made an A in calculus II.

The "bow tie sets" or "bow tie hardware" normally aren't in stock at the store. Comb the thrift store for an old bow to deconstruct or order from Newarkdress.com (these look like plastic) or from steinlaufandstoller.com (Dritz metal goods and accessories number 94).

2. Use fabric that is meant to be tied (i.e. no heavy tweed). The pattern will make appropo suggestions like silk, satin, linen, taffeta, jacquard, garbardine, lightweight woolen, brocade or damask. You only need 1/2 (per 34" width) of a yard so there's no need to skimp on quality here. If you don't want to purchase, then raid someone's closet--even an old long tie can supply you with enough fabric but you will have to iron it forever to get rid of the crease. You can order online but some items have flaws from the mill. My local fabric stores only stock silk in solids. You will also need some pins, extremely thin ones for silk (called silk pins) won't make garrish holes in your fabric.

3. Interfacing. It's not optional. You will need the equivalent of the fabric you buy: 1/2 a yard of interfacing to 1/2 a yard of fabric. Buy more (interfacing and fabric) if you think you may make a mistake. I sewed one side, wrong side-out. :icon_headagainstwal

4. Follow the instructions. My pattern already had the seam allowances built in. I have some cut but won't be able to sew until the weekend. I'll post photos soon. If all else fails, call grandma and promise her that you will get married, produce an heir or some other lie in order to get on her good side. She can help. Or talk to your favorite alterationist, she may have some spare time or could make the buttonholes on the second pattern for you. You are probably looking at <$10 for the pattern and about $10 for the hardware if you order online. If you make more than one, you will avg <$20 or less per tie. More importantly, it will be exactly what you want.


----------



## Tom Buchanan (Nov 7, 2005)

I really do not wear bow ties much, otherwise I might be tempted to learn to sew.

Here are a couple of pages showing the process in pictures. They recommend iron on backing for the interior.

https://www.staehelin.ch/bowtie/fliege/bow tie.html

https://gescott14.blogspot.com/2008/06/how-to-sew-your-own-bowties.html


----------



## DiogenesClub (May 4, 2008)

Thanks, TB. Fuseable interfacing (iron on) will make it easier. Out of three ties, one is passing muster. Cut it on the bias or against the grain. More to come...


----------



## DiogenesClub (May 4, 2008)

Wow, that was harder than I thought and am still without button holes. I would say I have three hours in the thing but I had to hire a tutor.


----------



## DoghouseReilly (Jul 25, 2010)

It seems I'm into a little thread necromancy today. Anyway, I made a bow using these instructions about a month back and was surprised how easy it was. If you have a spare few hours and feel like trying something new, give it a try. Here's what I learned:

- Create your own pattern. The one linked to here is too small. It's easy enough to do; just trace your favorite bow onto a piece of paper and add about a quarter of an inch for seam allowance. To add allowance, use a compass and trace around your original tracing. If you have misplaced your 4th grade pencil box or your 60 year old drafting instruments, you could always try what I did and rubber-band a pencil to a ruler. If you aren't exact, don't worry. We are sewing a tie and not machining valve heads. You won't be able to tell when the tie is finished.

- If possible, use 1 tie. I was able to use a 4 inch wide regimental I wasn't going to otherwise wear. Just be sure that you trace out your pieces carefully before hand so that you use your material efficiently.

- When you iron the tie, be sure to use low heat and put a handkerchief in between the iron and the fabric so you don't shine the silk.

- Make sure you didn't leave any gaps. It's a real pain to get the tie inside out again after step 10.5. I suggest running a smooth object about the size of a pencil around the seams just to make sure. A metal chopstick is what I used.

- Mind the sewing allowance on the ends. If anything, leave slightly more than a quarter inch. I went over my allowances and the tie is a little tight. I imagine it will stretch out a bit, but would add more if I had to do it again.


----------

