# Bespoke Men’s Dresswear



## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

Savile Row Tailors Richard Anderson, Limited and H. Huntsman; how do they compare with each other?

I was on the Richard Anderson, Limited website and was enormously impressed with what I saw.

Richard Anderson and his partner, Brian Lishak, left H. Huntsman and went on their own as Richard Anderson, Limited in early July 2001. They were tailors at H. Huntsman for many, many years before going on their own.

FWIW, the most popular fabrics by far at Richard Anderson, Limited are Holland and Sherry. Are Holland and Sherry fabrics the most popular fabrics by any amount at H. Huntsman?

Fortunately, I now have tons of time and patience (before, I had only tons of time but no patience) for bespoke.  I should have the money to go bespoke sometime in 2008 and will exclusively do so for all of my dresswear as soon as I can afford it.


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## Bishop of Briggs (Sep 7, 2007)

Who is the best tailor on Savile Row is a matter of personal taste. There are customers of other SR firms here who would be offended by your comments. Some members here prefer the soft tailoring (Scholte cut) of Anderson & Sheppard and its alumni. We are fortunate to have excellent SR and SR quality tailors as members too. They deserve our respect and courtesy.

Like you, I like the structured, one button coat of Huntsman and Richard Anderson. If you are not a current customer, Huntsman is now quoting a six month wait for a bespoke suit. That means if your finances allow you to go bespoke in 2008, you will have to wait until July to put on a Huntsman suit. In the meantime, you may wish to consider Huntsman's limited range RTW suits or its cheaper and quicker MTM service.


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

Bishop of Briggs said:


> Who is the best tailor on Savile Row is a matter of personal taste. There are customers of other SR firms here who would be offended by your comments. Some members here prefer the soft tailoring (Scholte cut) of Anderson & Sheppard and its alumni. We are fortunate to have excellent SR and SR quality tailors as members too. They deserve our respect and courtesy.


I just edited my message because of everything you pointed out in this paragraph. Honestly, all of Savile Row is excellent, IMO. Thank you for putting things in perspective, Bishop of Briggs. I am sorry for being a pompous jerk, my fellow AAAC members.


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## Bishop of Briggs (Sep 7, 2007)

Audi S5 TC said:


> I will be much more than happy and much more than willing to wait six months for bespoke from H. Huntsman if it is necessary. Of course, I am also considering bespoke from Richard Anderson, Limited.
> 
> FWIW, I am also much more than happy and much more than willing to wait six months for bespoke from Richard Anderson, Limited, if necessary. I just love the solid feel of a structured suit. I find it to be exceptionally comfortable with exceptional fit, drapery and appearance.


Richard Anderson recently quoted me 6 to 8 weeks depending on availability for fittings. The firm is also significantly cheaper than Huntsman. The choice is yours.


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## Shirtmaven (Jan 2, 2004)

*what happened?*

Audi.. When you were fashion TC you had such a hard on for Oxxford.
Now you have decided to go British?

So are you going to ask the same questions over and over about which SR firm is best?

Carl


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

Shirtmaven said:


> Audi.. When you were fashion TC you had such a hard on for Oxxford. Now you have decided to go British?


That is correct. I now know that I will most likely be much more satisfied with bespoke than any made to measure. Very, very often, things change. But the fact that I am now a die hard Savile Row fan instead of the die hard Oxxford fan that I used to be will never be one of those things that very, very often change, I am immensely happy to say! 



Shirtmaven said:


> So are you going to ask the same questions over and over about which SR firm is best?
> 
> Carl


Actually, I will now just use my own judgment on that from here on in.


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## Shirtmaven (Jan 2, 2004)

Are you planning to go to London for fittings?
Waiting for travelling English tailors to deliver a first suit, couold take up to a year. again, you are patient.
Leonard Logsdail in NYC is your best local bet.

Carl


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## Concordia (Sep 30, 2004)

If you have time available not to be home, consider flying to London for your first fitting. I.e., get measured here, and do the first try-on in the shop. If you're staying for a week, see if they can agree in advance to give you another fitting before you leave. That will set your pattern much better, and make subsequent orders easier to manage from NYC. No point in spending all this money if you don't get the best product they know how to make.


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## culverwood (Feb 13, 2006)

If it matters, I think R Anderson are actually even more expensive than Huntsman.


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## Joshua Byrne (Dec 3, 2007)

This is purely subjective, but if I was to choose between Huntsman and R. Anderson, I would go with Richard in a heartbeat. 
All my best
Joshua


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

Concordia said:


> If you have time available not to be home, consider flying to London for your first fitting. I.e., get measured here, and do the first try-on in the shop. If you're staying for a week, see if they can agree in advance to give you another fitting before you leave. That will set your pattern much better, and make subsequent orders easier to manage from NYC. No point in spending all this money if you don't get the best product they know how to make.


Even though I most definitely have the patience, I don't have anywhere near that much time on my hands, and certainly nowhere near enough money, to be flying to London for all of the reasons you mentioned above just to buy bespoke from Richard Anderson, Limited and H. Huntsman. Besides, I don't like the idea of traveling by myself when traveling so far away that I have to fly, even if it is national or continental, and especially if it is international or intercontinental.

Don't get me wrong, I still think that Richard Anderson, Limited and H. Huntsman are excellent tailors. But IMO, no tailor, regardless of how excellent they are or might be, is excellent enough that it is even the least bit worth it, let alone any amount more than the least bit worth it, to fly alone international or intercontinental.

Because of all of the above, just like Shirtmaven suggested, I will go with that Savile Row tailor, Leonard Logsdail, who is either primarily or exclusively in New York City, NY (St. James, NY-the town that I live in-which is in northwestern-almost north central-Suffolk County on Long Island is a suburb outside of NYC). I am sure that Leonard Logsdail is just as excellent (and just as British, of course) as Richard Anderson, Limited, H. Huntsman and all other Savile Row tailors.

And, I will be much more than happy and much more than willing to go with Leonard Logsdail instead of Richard Anderson, Limited and H. Huntsman because of all of the above.

I am also sure that Leonard Logsdail would be much more than happy and much more than willing to make my bespoke tailored clothing (suits, sportsjackets, dress pants, odd vests and overcoats) out of Holland and Sherry fabrics, including the 100% super 120s worsted wool fabrics in Books HS136 and HS525.


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

culverwood said:


> If it matters, I think R Anderson are actually even more expensive than Huntsman.


Is that right, culverwood? I guess that Richard Anderson, Limited is now the flagship for Savile Row, and probably has been since early July 2001, soon after that or relatively soon after that.


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

Shirtmaven said:


> Are you planning to go to London for fittings?
> Waiting for travelling English tailors to deliver a first suit, couold take up to a year. again, you are patient.
> Leonard Logsdail in NYC is your best local bet.
> 
> Carl


Do you have the link to the website for Leonard Logsdail, Shirtmaven? If so, can I please have it? If you prefer not to give out the link to the website for Leonard Logsdail, please email it to me at [email protected]? Thank you in advance.


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## UK2004 (Jan 13, 2007)

Do yourself a favour and go Italian for your suits!


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## Bishop of Briggs (Sep 7, 2007)

Audi S5 TC said:


> Is that right, culverwood? I guess that Richard Anderson, Limited is now the flagship for Savile Row, and probably has been since early July 2001, soon after that or relatively soon after that.


There is no "flagship" on the Row IMO. The shops of G&H, Dege, Kilgour, Poole, RA, Huntsman, Sedwell and the other firms are very different. Their appeal depends on individual taste. Mine is more traditional.

IIRC, Richard Anderson is about a thousand pounds cheaper than Huntsman for bespoke. I will check the notes that I made when I called both recently. Mr Byrne's comment is significant given his training and experience at Henry Poole. Perhaps he could explain, even in a PM, why he would prefer Richard Anderson to Huntsman in a heartbeat.

Will's blog suggest that he has to wait up to a year for his Fallon & Harvey suits, i.e. between selecting the cloth and the finished suit being delivered. Shirtmaven's comment seems to confirm that perception. Leonard Logsdail has an excellent reputation on AAAC and other fora. I read that he makes a structured coat like the Savile Row firms that you prefer. It would make sense for you to build up a relationship with him if you need several garments as one of your posts indicated. Frank Shattuck is another NY tailor with an excellent reputation on the fora.


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## Joshua Byrne (Dec 3, 2007)

My reasoning is simple, even though I might not always be a fan of Richard's more extravagant styles, purely on a personal basis he seems to care more about what he does than the team at Huntsman, for me that is of great importance, as the passion that one has for what one does surely has to have an impact on the finished product as well as the nature of the interactions through the process. 
If you need further information, I would be happy to clarify further. 
All my best
Joshua


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## Bishop of Briggs (Sep 7, 2007)

Joshua Byrne said:


> My reasoning is simple, even though I might not always be a fan of Richard's more extravagant styles, purely on a personal basis he seems to care more about what he does than the team at Huntsman, for me that is of great importance, as the passion that one has for what one does surely has to have an impact on the finished product as well as the nature of the interactions through the process.
> If you need further information, I would be happy to clarify further.
> All my best
> Joshua


That's a fascinating and informed comment that our colleagues, especially those who are customers of those firms, will note with great interest. Thank you!


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## Bishop of Briggs (Sep 7, 2007)

I would be interested to know if there are any significant differences (e.g. cut, construction or finish) between Richard Anderson and Huntsman. If not, how can Huntsman justify the significant price difference?


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## culverwood (Feb 13, 2006)

Bishop of Briggs said:


> IIRC, Richard Anderson is about a thousand pounds cheaper than Huntsman for bespoke. I will check the notes that I made when I called both recently.


That was not the impression I got when I called in on both their shops the other month.


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

UK2004 said:


> Do yourself a favour and go Italian for your suits!


Why do you think I should go Italian, UK2004? Even though I like Italian a great deal, I also like Savile Row (which, as we all know, is British) a great deal.

Even though I will stick with Savile Row, which Italian bespoke tailors (in New York City, NY and in Italy) do you recommend, UK2004? If anybody on AAAC, SF and all other clothing forums as well as anybody I know outside of AAAC, SF and all other clothing forum ever go bespoke and choose Italian, I will know which Italian tailors to recommend to them.

Of course, I only speak for myself when I say that I would never fly international or intercontinental to buy any bespoke clothing from any tailor that is located in a country other than the USA or in a continent other than North America.

Other people on AAAC, SF and all other clothing forums and other people that I know outside of AAAC, SF and all other clothing forums might actually willing to fly either alone or with somebody they know to buy any bespoke clothing from any tailor that is located in a country other than the USA or a continent other than North America.


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## Joshua Byrne (Dec 3, 2007)

Purely as a matter of opinion, I would say that Richards clothes are closer to the classic Huntsman cut than Huntsman is now. The reason I think this is that historically huntsman had a defined but narrow shoulder, small but structured chest, slim waist, and full skirt, but with cutaway fronts. All of those things are present in Richard's garments, but I feel that the chest is slightly fuller in Huntman garments now, and the fronts are less cutaway, thus pushing it closer to a more generic westend garment. This as expressed as above is purely a subjective opinion, and I am sure that there are many Huntsman customers who have been getting the same garments for a very long time, and are extremely happy. 
All my best
Joshua


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

Concordia said:


> If you have time available not to be home, consider flying to London for your first fitting. I.e., get measured here, and do the first try-on in the shop. If you're staying for a week, see if they can agree in advance to give you another fitting before you leave. That will set your pattern much better, and make subsequent orders easier to manage from NYC. No point in spending all this money if you don't get the best product they know how to make.


How many times would a person that has the time, money, willingness and patience and is also interested in doing so have to fly to London, England (again, either alone or with somebody they know) to go to Savile Row like you suggested a person should do in the reply message that you posted that I quoted above? Hopefully, a person would not have to do this too many times. Having to do this too many times would be a gargantuan pain in the derriere, IMPO (IMPO being in many peoples opinions, of course) and IMO.

After all, this is the best way to spend all this money and get the best product that all tailors who are actually located at Savile Row in London, England know how to make, right?


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## Bishop of Briggs (Sep 7, 2007)

Joshua Byrne said:


> Purely as a matter of opinion, I would say that Richards clothes are closer to the classic Huntsman cut than Huntsman is now. The reason I think this is that historically huntsman had a defined but narrow shoulder, small but structured chest, slim waist, and full skirt, but with cutaway fronts. All of those things are present in Richard's garments, but I feel that the chest is slightly fuller in Huntman garments now, and the fronts are less cutaway, thus pushing it closer to a more generic westend garment. This as expressed as above is purely a subjective opinion, and I am sure that there are many Huntsman customers who have been getting the same garments for a very long time, and are extremely happy.
> All my best
> Joshua


That confirms my own perceptions, especially on the cutaway fronts/quarters. Many thanks again!


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## Concordia (Sep 30, 2004)

Audi S5 TC said:


> How many times would a person that has the time, money, willingness and patience and is also interested in doing so have to fly to London, England (again, either alone or with somebody they know) to go to Savile Row like you suggested a person should do in the reply message that you posted that I quoted above? Hopefully, a person would not have to do this too many times. Having to do this too many times would be a gargantuan pain in the derriere, IMPO (IMPO being in many peoples opinions, of course) and IMO.
> 
> After all, this is the best way to spend all this money and get the best product that all tailors who are actually located at Savile Row in London, England know how to make, right?


If you're there a lot, it is better. 
If you are in the shop for the first handful of fittings, while your pattern is being straightened out, that is probably good enough. The trick is to get to a point that the periodic US visits are for tweaks and maintenance to your pattern, not wholesale revisions. That's hard to execute properly across the ocean, although there are doubtless tailors who can do it.


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## Bishop of Briggs (Sep 7, 2007)

Audi S5 TC said:


> Why do you think I should go Italian, UK2004? Even though I like Italian a great deal, I also like Savile Row (which, as we all know, is British) a great deal.
> 
> Even though I will stick with Savile Row, which Italian bespoke tailors (in New York City, NY and in Italy) do you recommend, UK2004? If anybody on AAAC, SF and all other clothing forums as well as anybody I know outside of AAAC, SF and all other clothing forum ever go bespoke and choose Italian, I will know which Italian tailors to recommend to them.
> 
> ...


Flights to between the US and London are still relatively inexpensive.If you can afford Savile Row, a weekend visit for fittings would be worthwhile to cut down lead times.

The leading Italian tailors are Kiton, Caraceni (Milan and Rome) and Rubinacci (Naples and London). Salvatore Ambrosi has an excellent reputation as a trouser maker.


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## RJman (Nov 11, 2003)

Fashion TC/Oxxford SJLtoNYC/Audi TT:

Why not use one of the excellent New York tailors like Shattuck or Raphael, or the already mentioned Logsdail? While I have no personal experience with them, from all accounts Shattuck and Raphael, for example, appear to hold their own against Savile Row.


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

Bishop of Briggs said:


> There is no "flagship" on the Row IMO. The shops of G&H, Dege, Kilgour, Poole, RA, Huntsman, Sedwell and the other firms are very different. Their appeal depends on individual taste. Mine is more traditional.
> 
> IIRC, Richard Anderson is about a thousand pounds cheaper than Huntsman for bespoke. I will check the notes that I made when I called both recently. Mr Byrne's comment is significant given his training and experience at Henry Poole. Perhaps he could explain, even in a PM, why he would prefer Richard Anderson to Huntsman in a heartbeat.
> 
> Will's blog suggest that he has to wait up to a year for his Fallon & Harvey suits, i.e. between selecting the cloth and the finished suit being delivered. Shirtmaven's comment seems to confirm that perception. Leonard Logsdail has an excellent reputation on AAAC and other fora. I read that he makes a structured coat like the Savile Row firms that you prefer. It would make sense for you to build up a relationship with him if you need several garments as one of your posts indicated. Frank Shattuck is another NY tailor with an excellent reputation on the fora.


With the weakening US Dollar and strengthening UK pound, how many US dollars is 1,000 pounds, Bishop of Briggs?


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

RJman said:


> Fashion TC/Oxxford SJLtoNYC/Audi TT:
> 
> Why not use one of the excellent New York tailors like Shattuck or Raphael, or the already mentioned Logsdail? While I have no personal experience with them, from all accounts Shattuck and Raphael, for example, appear to hold their own against Savile Row.


How do Jon Green, William Fioravanti, Liana Lee and Domenico Vacca, all of whom are located in New York City hold his own, if at all, against Savile Row?

I am already considering Leonard Logsdail, who, although located in New York City, is just as much a Savile Row tailor as any of the other Savile Row tailors who are still located on Savile Row in London, England. I believe Leonard Logsdail left Savile Row in London, England to go to New York City in 1991.

BTW, my new user name is Audi S5 TC, not Audi TT. But that is okay, RJman. I could have more easily made a mistake like that than you if somebody changed their user name on any message board.


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## UK2004 (Jan 13, 2007)

Bishop of Briggs said:


> Flights to between the US and London are still relatively inexpensive.If you can afford Savile Row, a weekend visit for fittings would be worthwhile to cut down lead times.
> 
> The leading Italian tailors are Kiton, Caraceni (Milan and Rome) and Rubinacci (Naples and London). Salvatore Ambrosi has an excellent reputation as a trouser maker.


Add to those Cesare Attolini, Brioni, Barbera even Corneliani and Armani Collezioni, Zegna Couture and Canali I would take all those over Saville Row. I own a Saville Row bespoke because my father took me for one a few years ago but it's terrible comapred to my Italian suits just not my style at all. Kiton is very unpadded and soft whereas Brioni has a more structured look with more padding possibly would be preferred by those who like Saville Row bespoke style suits. RUbinacci also has a place in Milan where he is based a lot of the time.

It's important the distinction is made between those who do a lot of RTW such as Kiton and Brioni and those who mostly do bespoke such as Rubinacci and Cesare Attolini. All offer bespoke but Brioni and Kiton do loads of RTW and superb quality it is but it isn't cheap. A Kiton RTW suit will set you back often more than Saville Row bespoke.


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## RJman (Nov 11, 2003)

Audi S5 TC said:


> How does Jon Green, William Fioravanti, Liana Lee and Domenico Vacca, all of whom are located in New York City hold his own, if at all, against Savile Row?


I would strongly advise you to do a search on this forum and find out what others have said. I have no experience with them personally.


> I am already considering Leonard Logsdail, who, although located in New York City, is just as much a Savile Row tailor as any of the other Savile Row tailors who are still located on Savile Row in London, England.


Well yes, but it appears you are considering him because he is from Savile Row, rather than because of any other merit he has.


> BTW, my new user name is Audi S5 TC, not Audi TT. But that is okay, RJman. I could have more easily made a mistake like that than you if somebody changed their user name on any message board.


Oh, it wasn't a mistake. I was having a go at you. But if your name is Audi, shouldn't you be looking at German bespoke? If there is any, that is.


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## mafoofan (May 16, 2005)

UK2004 said:


> Add to those Cesare Attolini, Brioni, Barbera even Corneliani and Armani Collezioni, Zegna Couture and Canali I would take all those over Saville Row. I own a Saville Row bespoke because my father took me for one a few years ago but it's terrible comapred to my Italian suits just not my style at all. Kiton is very unpadded and soft whereas Brioni has a more structured look with more padding possibly would be preferred by those who like Saville Row bespoke style suits. RUbinacci also has a place in Milan where he is based a lot of the time.
> 
> It's important the distinction is made between those who do a lot of RTW such as Kiton and Brioni and those who mostly do bespoke such as Rubinacci and Cesare Attolini. All offer bespoke but Brioni and Kiton do loads of RTW and superb quality it is but it isn't cheap. A Kiton RTW suit will set you back often more than Saville Row bespoke.


Barbera, Corneliani, Armani, Zegna, and Canali are nowhere _near_ the same level of quality as Caraceni (the good ones) or Rubinacci. Not the same ballpark--not even the same planet. They're not even 'tailors'; they're brands. Canali one of Italy's best? Not even close. Kiton, Attolini and Brioni are largely MTM and RTW operations. They aren't really 'tailors' either.

It's hard to imagine much cross-shopping between a Savile Row tailor and Canali. There's a huge gulf between them in terms of price, style, and service. This discussion is useless without thoughtful consideration of such factors.


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## mafoofan (May 16, 2005)

Audi S5 TC said:


> How does Jon Green, William Fioravanti, Liana Lee and Domenico Vacca, all of whom are located in New York City hold his own, if at all, against Savile Row?


Jon Green and Vacca are not tailors in the way the big Savile Row firms are. I believe Green offers bespoke, but production is farmed out and he himself is more a stylist. He's also _very_ expensive. Vacca sells over-priced MTM Attolini.

Savile Row tailors are an entirely different animal. Better or worse? That hinges heavily on whether you value bespoke over made-to-measure and what particular style and service you demand.


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## UK2004 (Jan 13, 2007)

mafoofan said:


> Barbera, Corneliani, Armani, Zegna, and Canali are nowhere _near_ the same level of quality as Caraceni (the good ones) or Rubinacci. Not the same ballpark--not even the same planet. They're not even 'tailors'; they're brands. Canali one of Italy's best? Not even close. Kiton, Attolini and Brioni are largely MTM and RTW operations. They aren't really 'tailors' either.
> 
> It's hard to imagine much cross-shopping between a Savile Row tailor and Canali. There's a huge gulf between them in terms of price, style, and service. This discussion is useless without thoughtful consideration of such factors.


Where did I claim that they were in the same league as Kiton, Brioni, Rbinacci, Attolini? I clearly didn't I said I would prefer them. If you had seen some of the exclusive collection stuff that Canali do at £5,400 RTW in London you wouldn't insult the brand like that they have many different lines and some of the Exclusive Collection stuff is phenomenral. And yes Kiton Brioni and Attolini do do bespoke.


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

Bishop of Briggs said:


> Flights to between the US and London are still relatively inexpensive.If you can afford Savile Row, a weekend visit for fittings would be worthwhile to cut down lead times.
> 
> The leading Italian tailors are Kiton, Caraceni (Milan and Rome) and Rubinacci (Naples and London). Salvatore Ambrosi has an excellent reputation as a trouser maker.


Don't forget Gianni Campagna (Milan and possibly New York City and Tokyo) as one of the leading Italian tailors.

And, since you mentioned Kiton as one of the leading Italian tailors, don't forget Brioni (Rome and now also Milan) and Carlo Barbera (Milan; but not Luciano Barbera) as one of the top Italian tailors.


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## UK2004 (Jan 13, 2007)

I included Brioni above, their store in Via Gesu opposite the Four Seasons is lovely in Milan, I visit on my twice a year trips to Milan.


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## mafoofan (May 16, 2005)

UK2004 said:


> Where did I claim that they were in the same league as Kiton, Brioni, Rbinacci, Attolini? I clearly didn't I said I would prefer them. If you had seen some of the exclusive collection stuff that Canali do at £5,400 RTW in London you wouldn't insult the brand like that they have many different lines and some of the Exclusive Collection stuff is phenomenral. And yes Kiton Brioni and Attolini do do bespoke.


Kiton, Brioni, and Attolini's 'bespoke' operations are but very small portions of their businesses. They are better understood as large suit manufacturers that have some bespoke capacity. In fact, it is not entirely clear how bespoke their 'bespoke' is. Oxxford also claims to have a bespoke service, but it's arguably just MTM with a basted fitting (no drawn-from-scratch pattern). Furthermore, Kiton and Attolini make their bespoke suits off an assembly line. It's not like there's a couple of tailors in a backroom doing the work. Brioni, I'm not sure of. At the end: whatever you call them, they are not bespoke in the same way A&S or Rubinacci is.

I admit I am not familiar with the exclusive collection of Canali you refer to; nonetheless, it is not indicative of the general quality of the brand. It's just odd to call it one of Italy's 'leading tailors' (in response to Bishop of Brigg's list of leading Italian tailors, you added the ones I named).


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## UK2004 (Jan 13, 2007)

We can agree to differ. My point was that a very good looking suit can be made from those that I prefer to Saville Row bespoke. Regardless of what you wish to understand them as, they offer bespoke and I will call it that.


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## Shirtmaven (Jan 2, 2004)

I do not know if leonard Logsdail even has a website. A website is only as good as the web designer. my site is pretty lame. On purpose if i may add.

I knew this thread would break down into "i know what I like, so I think it is best"

Audi
What is is you are really looking for. A well fitting suit, or the experience!
Are you planning to get one suit only or several suits. Do you plan to stick with one tailor if you are pleased with the first suit or do you plan to sample several.

You have asked many of the same questions repeatedly. 

the forum members can give you opinions and guidence, but these are just our opinions. You are the one who will be paying for and wearing the suit.

Carl


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## Will (Jun 15, 2004)

Shirtmaven said:


> I do not know if leonard Logsdail even has a website.


If he does he does a great job of hiding it from the search engines.


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## Bishop of Briggs (Sep 7, 2007)

Audi S5 TC said:


> With the weakening US Dollar and strengthening UK pound, how many US dollars is 1,000 pounds, Bishop of Briggs?


You get around $2 to the UK pound at the moment. Great for Brits, bad for Americans!


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## Bishop of Briggs (Sep 7, 2007)

culverwood said:


> That was not the impression I got when I called in on both their shops the other month.


Perhaps the inclusion/exclusion of VAT made a difference. Huntsman was certainly more expensive. The six month wait for Huntsman bespoke is too long for me and I am looking elsewhere.


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

Bishop of Briggs said:


> Perhaps the inclusion/exclusion of VAT made a difference. Huntsman was certainly more expensive. The six month wait for Huntsman bespoke is too long for me and I am looking elsewhere.


Forgive my ignorance, but what is VAT?


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

Shirtmaven said:


> I do not know if leonard Logsdail even has a website. A website is only as good as the web designer. my site is pretty lame. On purpose if i may add.
> 
> I knew this thread would break down into "i know what I like, so I think it is best"
> 
> ...


I am looking for a well fitting suit a lot more than I am looking for the experience. However, I am also looking for the experience as well.


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## Bishop of Briggs (Sep 7, 2007)

Audi S5 TC said:


> Forgive my ignorance, but what is VAT?


Value Added Tax, a 17.5% sales tax in the UK.


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

culverwood said:


> That was not the impression I got when I called in on both their shops the other month.


culverwood,

1. Do the prices for Richard Anderson, Limited that you were quoted include or exclude value added tax or VAT for short?

2. Do the prices for H. Huntsman that you were quoted include or exclude VAT?


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## Concordia (Sep 30, 2004)

Audi S5 TC said:


> culverwood,
> 
> 1. Do the prices for Richard Anderson, Limited that you were quoted include or exclude value added tax or VAT for short?
> 
> 2. Do the prices for H. Huntsman that you were quoted include or exclude VAT?


They both have websites, e-mail addresses, and telephone numbers.


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## Jim In Sunny So Calif (May 13, 2006)

Audi - where are you going to have a bespoke suit made?


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

Jim In Sunny So Calif said:


> Audi - where are you going to have a bespoke suit made?


I plan to have my bespoke clothing made by Leonard Logsdail in New York City.

However, if my finances end up prohibiting from buying my bespoke clothing from Leonard Logsdail, I will end up going with Mr. Ned or Anthony Giliberto, both of whom are also in New York City.


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## Bonhamesque (Sep 5, 2005)

RA are definitely cheaper than Huntsman, trust me.


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

Bonhamesque said:


> RA are definitely cheaper than Huntsman, trust me.


I emailed Richard Anderson, Limited and H. Huntsman enquiring and asking them about their prices yesterday (Thursday 12-6-07).

Richard Anderson, Limited replied to my email that I sent to them yesterday enquiring and asking them about their prices sometime this morning (Friday 12-7-07).

Richard Anderson, Limited bespoke suit prices range from 2,653 pounds (two-piece suit-consisting of a jacket and one pair of trousers-made out of the least expensive fabrics that Richard Anderson, Limited has to offer) to 20,000 pounds (four-piece suit-consisting of a jacket, a vest-or, as they call it overseas, a waistcoat-and two similar or identical pairs of trousers-made out of the most expensive fabrics that Richard Anderson, Limited has to offer).

The only thing is that in the email that Richard Anderson, Limited sent me this morning, they did not specify if these prices exclude or include The United Kingdom's 17.5% value added tax. My guess (and this is just a guess) is that these prices exclude The United Kingdom's 17.5% VAT.

I also sent an email to Richard Anderson, Limited asking and enquiring them about other things about them three days ago (Tuesday 12-4-07). They responded to that email two days ago (Wednesday 12-5-07).

I have yet to hear from H. Huntsman enquiring and asking them about their prices in the email that I sent to them yesterday.

I also have yet to hear from H. Huntsman regarding other things I enquired and asked them about them in the email that I sent to them three days ago.

I know that I was forced to rule out ever buying any bespoke clothing from Richard Anderson, Limited and H. Huntsman yesterday for the reasons that I mentioned.

However, I know that there are a decent number of members of AAAC and SF that are still interested in bespoke clothing from these two Savile Row tailors. Because of this, I figured I would do them a favor and take it upon myself to get the prices and other information regarding bespoke clothing from these two Savile Row tailors.

After all, what good is it to be a member of any message boards or forums if you can't do favors like this for your fellow members every so often, especially around the Holidays, right?


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

Bishop of Briggs said:


> Flights to between the US and London are still relatively inexpensive.If you can afford Savile Row, a weekend visit for fittings would be worthwhile to cut down lead times.


I will be sure to remember this for any people that will join AAAC and SF in the future that are interested in buying bespoke clothing from any Savile Row Tailors that are located on Savile Row in London, England. 



Bishop of Briggs said:


> The leading Italian tailors are Kiton, Caraceni (Milan and Rome) and Rubinacci (Naples and London). Salvatore Ambrosi has an excellent reputation as a trouser maker.


I wonder if these "leading" Italian tailors ever use Holland and Sherry fabrics (which, IMO, are the best fabrics on Earth).

My guess (and this is just a guess) is that these "leading" Italian tailors strongly prefer Carlo Barbera fabrics to any British fabrics (Holland and Sherry included).


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

Concordia said:


> If you're there a lot, it is better.
> If you are in the shop for the first handful of fittings, while your pattern is being straightened out, that is probably good enough. The trick is to get to a point that the periodic US visits are for tweaks and maintenance to your pattern, not wholesale revisions. That's hard to execute properly across the ocean, although there are doubtless tailors who can do it.


I will be also be sure to remember this for any people that will join AAAC and SF in the future that are interested in buying bespoke clothing from any Savile Row Tailors that are located on Savile Row in London, England.


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## mafoofan (May 16, 2005)

Audi S5 TC said:


> I wonder if these "leading" Italian tailors ever use Holland and Sherry fabrics (which, IMO, are the best fabrics on Earth).
> 
> My guess (and this is just a guess) is that these "leading" Italian tailors strongly prefer Carlo Barbera fabrics to any British fabrics (Holland and Sherry included).


Actually, Mariano Rubinacci prefers English cloths. Furthermore, I don't know if I would call Holland and Sherry cloths "the best fabrics on Earth." They are a large producer with cloths covering a wide range of qualities. There are many smaller English mills that produce cloths that are arguably superior. While I am no cloth expert, many more knowledgeable than I on these forums speak highly of cloths by Lesser, Harris, Minnis, etc. I had some pants made with Woodhouse worsted twill cloth by Ambrosi--the cloth is meatier than anything I've seen from Holland and Sherry.

In my last conversation with Mariano, he expressed very clearly his opinion that English cloths offer a better hand and more substance than many Italian offerings. If you ever get to visit his Naples atelier, his preference for English cloth will be evident to you.


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## mafoofan (May 16, 2005)

Bishop of Briggs said:


> Flights to between the US and London are still relatively inexpensive.If you can afford Savile Row, a weekend visit for fittings would be worthwhile to cut down lead times.


There is another benefit to traveling to Savile Row if you believe the theory that you'll get better service: since Savile Row tailors only make periodic trips to the U.S., they may be reluctant to make a garment as perfect as possible since even minor problems can take months to rectify.

This is particularly important when you depend on a tailor to point out errors or problems that you don't see yourself.


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## 16412 (Apr 1, 2005)

It has been said before to be measured here and be fitted over there for the first 1-3 suits or jackets, if you have the travel time.

mafoofan when are you going to add to your webpages? They have been interesting reading.


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## mafoofan (May 16, 2005)

WA said:


> It has been said before to be measured here and be fitted over there for the first 1-3 suits or jackets, if you have the travel time.
> 
> mafoofan when are you going to add to your webpages? They have been interesting reading.


Thanks; hopefully by the end of the month there will be new content. Exams are winding up and I feel more motivated to work on it now. There's just a lot to do and I'm trying to decide how to move forward with it. I may rename the blog and I'm considering wiping out my face and name to make it more anonymous.

Part of the problem is that my vacation to Italy was no routine trip. I don't often frequent tailors (time and money being the issue), so what will I write about when all is said and done? I could give my opinions about style but there's little reason for anybody to put stock in my commentary: there too many out there with better knowledge and experience.

If you've got any ideas about what you'd like to see, let me know.


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

WA said:


> It has been said before to be measured here and be fitted over there for the first 1-3 suits or jackets, if you have the travel time.


Speaking of which, what is the maximum number of garments at a time that Savile Row allows their customers to get fitted for and buy?


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## RJman (Nov 11, 2003)

Audi S5 TC said:


> Speaking of which, what is the maximum number of garments at a time that Savile Row allows their customers to get fitted for and buy?


Trust me, this will not be an issue.


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

WA said:


> It has been said before to be measured here and be fitted over there for the first 1-3 suits or jackets, if you have the travel time.


Of course, I will remember this, too for future members of AAAC and SF who are interested in buying bespoke clothing from Savile Row tailors who are located at Savile Row in London, England.


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## whistle_blower71 (May 26, 2006)

Audi S5 TC said:


> Of course, I will remember this, too for future members of AAAC and SF who are interested in buying bespoke clothing from *Savile Row tailors who are located at Savile Row in London, England*.


I wish other members would be this clear when referring to Savile Row. Otherwise it creates a lot of confusion..eg. What Savile Row? Which London?

*W_B*


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## mafoofan (May 16, 2005)

Audi S5 TC said:


> And, yes RJman, I trust you 100% that there is no limit as to how many garments at a time a customer can be fitted for and buy from any Savile Row tailors.


The point is not whether they will let you, but whether you should. In fact, a trustworthy tailor--no matter how skilled--will often refuse to start with more than one garment. There are many potential fitting problems in the early stages of bespoke that must be fixed to perfect your pattern. No tailor can consistently get it right the first time. If you order a whole wardrobe all at once, you are simply multiplying those problems.

In short: start with one, no matter what anyone on Savile Row tells you.


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

mafoofan said:


> The point is not whether they will let you, but whether you should. In fact, a trustworthy tailor--no matter how skilled--will often refuse to start with more than one garment. There are many potential fitting problems in the early stages of bespoke that must be fixed to perfect your pattern. No tailor can consistently get it right the first time. If you order a whole wardrobe all at once, you are simply multiplying those problems.
> 
> In short: start with one, no matter what anyone on Savile Row tells you.


That is excellent advice, and some of the best advice anybody has ever given me, mafoofan!  Thank you dearly for looking out for me and all other people on AAAC, SF and everywhere else who are planning to buying bespoke clothing someday! 

I promise everybody that I will definitely remember this excellent advice as it is some of the best advice anybody has ever given me, period. 

And, yes, I promise that I will also remember this excellent advice (and all of the other excellent advice that was given to be for my eventual bespoke clothing purchase) for future members of AAAC and SF who buy bespoke clothing as well as all people that I know personally and professionally that are not members of any clothing forum who may eventually buy bespoke clothing someday. 

Just one thing though; when buying any bespoke clothing, in addition to starting with one garment at a time, should a person also always buy one garment at a time and never two or more garments at a time after that? If so, how much time should there be between the fitting and purchase of each garment?


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## mafoofan (May 16, 2005)

Audi S5 TC said:


> Just one thing though; when buying any MTM or bespoke clothing, in addition to starting with one garment at a time, should a person also always buy one garment at a time and never two or more garments at a time after that? If so, how much time should there be between the fitting and purchase of each garment?


After the tailor gets the first order right, order away. You only need to be concerned with doing one at a time when ordering a new kind of garment (if you've been ordering jackets, you'd want to start with one pair of pants on your first order).

I'm not sure I understand your question about timing between fitting and purchase. If the garment fits to both you and your tailor's satisfaction, you're done--no matter the time it takes. Obviously, sooner is better, but when dealing with tailors overseas it can take more than a year.


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## 16412 (Apr 1, 2005)

It is generally advisable to have one jacket per order for the first three orders for fitting purposes before doing a group in one order. 

Savile Row has some of the top cutters in the world, who are some of the best pattern makers on earth, but it is an educated guess where the lines goes on a pattern, because there are so many variations from one person to another to another etc. so they have fittings to tweak the pattern per person. MTM does not do this. Custom/bespoke is so much more detailed that they keep your pattern and adjust it as the years go by. 

Another reason to buy one jacket with a new tailor is you may decide that another tailor might do better or you want to try different styles that other tailors do. 

Probabaly most people notice some improvements between 1rst and 2nd coats. It also gives the cutter some time to think about how to improve the fit. Running to another tailor after the first coat may not be a good idea unless you really want another style.


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

mafoofan said:


> After the tailor gets the first order right, order away. You only need to be concerned with doing one at a time when ordering a new kind of garment (if you've been ordering jackets, you'd want to start with one pair of pants on your first order).
> 
> I'm not sure I understand your question about timing between fitting and purchase. If the garment fits to both you and your tailor's satisfaction, you're done--no matter the time it takes. Obviously, sooner is better, but when dealing with tailors overseas it can take more than a year.


Actually, the question I meant to ask is, for example (and this is all strictly an example), how much time should go buy between the purchase of a navy herringbone bespoke suit and the fittings for the eventual purchase of a similar bespoke suit in charcoal herringbone if the navy herringbone is purchased on, say, Saturday 9-27-08?


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

WA said:


> It is generally advisable to have one jacket per order for the first three orders for fitting purposes before doing a group in one order.
> 
> Savile Row has some of the top cutters in the world, who are some of the best pattern makers on earth, but it is an educated guess where the lines goes on a pattern, because there are so many variations from one person to another to another etc. so they have fittings to tweak the pattern per person. MTM does not do this. Custom/bespoke is so much more detailed that they keep your pattern and adjust it as the years go by.
> 
> ...


Does everything that you just said about jackets also apply to the overcoats, vests, pairs of trousers and any other clothing when it is bespoke, WA?


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## 16412 (Apr 1, 2005)

Audi S5 TC said:


> Does everything that you just said about jackets also apply to the overcoats, vests, pairs of trousers and any other clothing when it is bespoke, WA?


You have to ask somebody else. I think trousers are mostly one fitting. I don't buy tailored stuff. Once in a rare while I'll make something for myself.

Think I read somewhere that dopy ordered another coat at his second fitting with des merrion https://www.desmerrionbespoketailor.com/ I don't know if des considers himself a SR tailor, but I do like a one man band. There are several tailors in the USA. One from Chicago used to post here.


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## mafoofan (May 16, 2005)

WA said:


> You have to ask somebody else. I think trousers are mostly one fitting. I don't buy tailored stuff. Once in a rare while I'll make something for myself.
> 
> Think I read somewhere that dopy ordered another coat at his second fitting with des merrion https://www.desmerrionbespoketailor.com/ I don't know if des considers himself a SR tailor, but I do like a one man band. There are several tailors in the USA. One from Chicago used to post here.


I think starting with one of anything makes sense. The risk is perhaps lower with pants, so if you must, order more. But adjustments are almost always necessary.

The Chicago tailor you're talking about is Chris Despos. He's reputedly one of the best in the country. Merrion is not on the Row.


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## 16412 (Apr 1, 2005)

mafoofan said:


> Merrion is not on the Row.


I think of SR trained tailors and cutters like this "Once a country boy always a country boy" no matter how deep in the big city he has moved. He will always have that training which he will probably use more than anything else in the trade, so SR garments he will make.


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## RJman (Nov 11, 2003)

I am reminded of the story of Brer Rabbit and the ********.


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## whistle_blower71 (May 26, 2006)

Audi S5 TC said:


> Actually, the question I meant to ask is, for example (and this is all strictly an example), how much time should go buy between the purchase of a navy herringbone bespoke suit and the fittings for the eventual purchase of a similar bespoke suit in charcoal herringbone if the navy herringbone is purchased on, say, *Saturday 9-27-08*?


AM or PM?

*W_B*


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

whistle_blower71 said:


> AM or PM?
> 
> *W_B*


I guess anywhere from mid AM to mid PM.


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

WA said:


> It is generally advisable to have one jacket per order for the first three orders for fitting purposes before doing a group in one order.
> 
> Savile Row has some of the top cutters in the world, who are some of the best pattern makers on earth, but it is an educated guess where the lines goes on a pattern, because there are so many variations from one person to another to another etc. so they have fittings to tweak the pattern per person. MTM does not do this. Custom/bespoke is so much more detailed that they keep your pattern and adjust it as the years go by.
> 
> ...


For the first three orders, is ordering one suit per order, as opposed to ordering one jacket per order for the first three orders a good idea?

Or, is it better to just order one jacket per order for the first three orders?

FWIW, some people need and/or prefer suits to jackets for their first one, two or three orders.


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## mafoofan (May 16, 2005)

Audi S5 TC said:


> For the first three orders, is ordering one suit per order, as opposed to ordering one jacket per order for the first three orders a good idea?
> 
> Or, is it better to just order one jacket per order for the first three orders?
> 
> FWIW, some people need and/or prefer suits to jackets for their first one, two or three orders.


I'm getting confused by your questions. Bottomline:

1. It doesn't matter whether you order a suit or jacket first: it depends on what you want or need.

2. After the first order of a particular kind of garment (jacket, shirt, pants, etc.), order _any_ number per order that you feel like. For example, after getting the first jacket right on your first order, feel free to order 20 of them on your second order.

Make sense?


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

mafoofan said:


> I'm getting confused by your questions. Bottomline:
> 
> 1. It doesn't matter whether you order a suit or jacket first: it depends on what you want or need.
> 
> ...


What you said makes perfect sense, mafoofan.  Thank you once again.


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## 16412 (Apr 1, 2005)

Audi S5 TC said:


> For the first three orders, is ordering one suit per order, as opposed to ordering one jacket per order for the first three orders a good idea?
> 
> Or, is it better to just order one jacket per order for the first three orders?
> 
> FWIW, some people need and/or prefer suits to jackets for their first one, two or three orders.


Vest and trousers are simple garments compared to coats. Once in awhile 2-3 months later on a new coat or vest, as they settle, a problem will show up, which you take back for an adjustment. I don't know that all tailors have the same standards, but on pants the hem or cuff should not go above the shoe (at least not more than 2 inches) when sitting, nor should there be excess fabric in the lap.

You can order as many of whatever you want up to house limits on any order. Some people have noticed that on the second order the jackets fit better and they wished they had just ordered one jacket instead of several on the first order. Some people notice even into the third order that the jackets are even better. Between the orders it gives the tailor a chance to reconsider the cut and fit, etc.. Some people need several suits and sports coat and etc. on the first order, which is absolutely fine. If you are going to SR you could walk through the tailor houses and divide your suits up among several houses that interest you, over time you might perfer one over the others. Or, you may like one house to do the coats and another to do the pants (maybe not all house will do this).


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## venron (Jan 31, 2007)

*blog ideas*



mafoofan said:


> Thanks; hopefully by the end of the month there will be new content. Exams are winding up and I feel more motivated to work on it now. There's just a lot to do and I'm trying to decide how to move forward with it. I may rename the blog and I'm considering wiping out my face and name to make it more anonymous.
> 
> Part of the problem is that my vacation to Italy was no routine trip. I don't often frequent tailors (time and money being the issue), so what will I write about when all is said and done? I could give my opinions about style but there's little reason for anybody to put stock in my commentary: there too many out there with better knowledge and experience.
> 
> If you've got any ideas about what you'd like to see, let me know.


mafoofan-

You could update your site with the finished products and commentary of your overall satisfaction. I, for one, would be interested in seeing the finished shirts and jackets.


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

WA said:


> Vest and trousers are simple garments compared to coats. Once in awhile 2-3 months later on a new coat or vest, as they settle, a problem will show up, which you take back for an adjustment. I don't know that all tailors have the same standards, but on pants the hem or cuff should not go above the shoe (at least not more than 2 inches) when sitting, nor should there be excess fabric in the lap.
> 
> You can order as many of whatever you want up to house limits on any order. Some people have noticed that on the second order the jackets fit better and they wished they had just ordered one jacket instead of several on the first order. Some people notice even into the third order that the jackets are even better. Between the orders it gives the tailor a chance to reconsider the cut and fit, etc.. Some people need several suits and sports coat and etc. on the first order, which is absolutely fine. If you are going to SR you could walk through the tailor houses and divide your suits up among several houses that interest you, over time you might perfer one over the others. Or, you may like one house to do the coats and another to do the pants (maybe not all house will do this).


When I do start buying bespoke clothing, to be far on the safe side, I will buy only buy one garment (be it a suit, overcoat, shirt, etcetera) for each of the first three orders and take it from there once the tailor has perfected my pattern. This way, I will be far more likely to get the best product the tailor of my choice can make, regardless of whether it is Leonard Logsdail, Mr. Ned or whatever tailor my time and budget will allow.

Unfortunately, even though I most definitely do have the patience to do so, I will most likely never have anywhere near enough time or money to fly to Savile Row in London, England to buy bespoke clothing from Richard Anderson, Limited, H. Huntsman or any other Savile Row tailors in London, England.

However, if my budget allows it, I can still consider buying Savile Row bespoke clothing when I can start to do so because Leonard Logsdail, whos is just as much a Savile Row Tailor as RA, Ltd., H. Huntsman and all other Savile Row tailors on Savile Row in London, England, is located in New York City, NY, USA.

Even so, I have valid reasons for continuing to ask questions and seek information about all Savile Row tailors and all other bespoke tailors, regardless of where they are located or anything else. So I can be extremely helpful to anybody I know, both on and off AAAC and SF, who may someday be interested in buying bespoke clothing, regardless of what tailor they choose to go to for their bespoke clothing.


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## dopey (Jan 17, 2005)

I am offended that people have tried to discourage you from asking and asking questions on the topic of buying bespoke tailored clothing from bespoke tailors located on Savile Row in London, England or from bespoke tailors in New York, New York. Your questions, and the answers given to your questions by other people who provide the answers will be helpful to other members who have questions on the topic of buying bespoke tailored clothing from bespoke tailors located on Savile Row in London, England or from bespoke tailors in New York, New York. Thanks dopey.


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## mafoofan (May 16, 2005)

Audi S5 TC said:


> However, if my budget allows it, I can still consider buying Savile Row bespoke clothing when I can start to do so because Leonard Logsdail, whos is just as much a Savile Row Tailor as RA, Ltd., H. Huntsman and all other Savile Row tailors on Savile Row in London, England, is located in New York City, NY, USA.
> 
> Even so, I have valid reasons for continuing to ask questions and seek information about all Savile Row tailors and all other bespoke tailors, regardless of where they are located or anything else. So I can be extremely helpful to anybody I know, both on and off AAAC and SF, who may someday be interested in buying bespoke clothing, regardless of what tailor they choose to go to for their bespoke clothing.


Out of curiosity, why the preference for 'Savile Row tailors' in the first place? It's not like there is a singular Savile Row method of tailoring. Also, the fact that you wou are willing to use Logsdail implies that you don't care if your clothes are actually made in England.

There are lots of excellent tailors not on or associated with Savile Row, and indiviual approaches to tailoring often eclipse whatever loose generalities you might attach to a particular region.

Since you are just beginning your search for the right tailor, I suggest you start by determining more specifically what kind of qualities you are looking for. Geographical locatiion--whether London, Naples, or Chicago--is secondary.


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## 16412 (Apr 1, 2005)

mafoofan said:


> Out of curiosity, why the preference for 'Savile Row tailors' in the first place? It's not like there is a singular Savile Row method of tailoring. Also, the fact that you wou are willing to use Logsdail implies that you don't care if your clothes are actually made in England.


I believe Logsdails clothes are made in England by SR tailors.


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

mafoofan said:


> Out of curiosity, why the preference for 'Savile Row tailors' in the first place? It's not like there is a singular Savile Row method of tailoring. Also, the fact that you wou are willing to use Logsdail implies that you don't care if your clothes are actually made in England.
> 
> There are lots of excellent tailors not on or associated with Savile Row, and indiviual approaches to tailoring often eclipse whatever loose generalities you might attach to a particular region.
> 
> Since you are just beginning your search for the right tailor, I suggest you start by determining more specifically what kind of qualities you are looking for. Geographical locatiion--whether London, Naples, or Chicago--is secondary.


Fit, quality and service are the biggest things that I am looking for when I buy bespoke clothing. Of course, I want a structured suit with padding, roped shoulders and a European slim cut that is distinctly British.

As for quality, the fabrics that I am interested in are super 120s wool (preferably silk like super 120s wool; 9 ounces for the warmer weather and 10 or 11 ounces for cooler weather) for suits and the like, super 120s cotton for shirts (preferably silk like super 120s cotton; cotton twill for cooler weather, sea island or Egyptian cotton for warmer weather), non super English silk for neck ties and pocket squares, etcetera.

Savile Row tailors are incredibly famous for excellent fit, workmanship and construction, excellent service and maintaining loyal customers. So are tailors in New York City, NY that are not on or affiliated with Savile Row such as Frank Shattuck, Raphael (whatever his last name is) and even Mr. Ned and Anthony Giliberto (both of whom are bespoke tailors for those on more of a budget) as well as other tailors in NYC that I can't think of off the top of my head.

Even though it is not completely out of the question (and even though it would be great to do, IMO), for me, flying to London to buy bespoke clothing for Richard Anderson, Limited or H. Huntsman (my two preferences for Savile Row tailors that are located on Savile Row in London, England, again, these are just preferences for hometown Savile Row tailors, nothing personal), at least for the first few fittings of each garment that I buy one at a time for my first three bespoke purchases, will most likely never be an option for me because of time and money issues.

Therefore, I would be far more than happy and far more than willing to use a tailor that fits all of my needs mentioned above close to where I live (a maximum of 50 to 60 miles from where I live, to be more specific), regardless of whether or not they are on or affiliated with Savile Row.


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## 16412 (Apr 1, 2005)

dopey said:


> I am offended that people have tried to discourage you from asking and asking questions on the topic of buying bespoke tailored clothing from bespoke tailors located on Savile Row in London, England or from bespoke tailors in New York, New York. Your questions, and the answers given to your questions by other people who provide the answers will be helpful to other members who have questions on the topic of buying bespoke tailored clothing from bespoke tailors located on Savile Row in London, England or from bespoke tailors in New York, New York. Thanks dopey.


It seems that I have seen a couple pictures of guys sitting in SR pants where the hem or cuff was away from the shoe, is that normal or rare nowadays? With hard to fit people I can understand them letting a couple slip by until they figure it out for that person. But I don't think it should be normal cutting and fitting from world class cutters.

That pleated back and back belt idea you have been thinking about is a really nice idea.


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

dopey said:


> I am offended that people have tried to discourage you from asking and asking questions on the topic of buying bespoke tailored clothing from bespoke tailors located on Savile Row in London, England or from bespoke tailors in New York, New York. Your questions, and the answers given to your questions by other people who provide the answers will be helpful to other members who have questions on the topic of buying bespoke tailored clothing from bespoke tailors located on Savile Row in London, England or from bespoke tailors in New York, New York. Thanks dopey.


Thank you dearly for your support, dopey.  Words cannot describe how much I appreciate your support.


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

WA said:


> I believe Logsdails clothes are made in England by SR tailors.


That is interesting to know.


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## dopey (Jan 17, 2005)

Audi S5 TC said:


> Thank you dearly for your support, dopey.  Words cannot describe how much I appreciate your support.


Yes, words sometimes fail the best of us. Perhaps a picture would be adequate? Or an original song or musical composition to show your thanks? But really, I am already quite satisfied with your expressed sentiment and need nothing more. 
Thanks dopey.


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## Cantabrigian (Aug 29, 2005)

TC,

How did you get around those pesky welfare fraud rules?

Maybe I should change careers so that I too can afford a bespoke Savile Row (London) wardrobe from bespoke tailors to go with my bespoke diamond-encrusted watch.


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## yachtie (May 11, 2006)

Cantabrigian said:


> TC,
> 
> How did you get around those pesky welfare fraud rules?
> 
> Maybe I should change careers so that I too can afford a bespoke Savile Row (London) wardrobe from bespoke tailors to go with my bespoke diamond-encrusted watch.


Everyone has dreams, Cantabrigian, everyone has dreams.


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## Cantabrigian (Aug 29, 2005)

I don't pretend that my income extends nearly as far as my questions but our boy TC takes that to an extreme. 

Given the... persistence... of the inquiries and the interludes of lucidity that lull people into taking the questions seriously, I figured it was worth mentioning.


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

*Andy,.....*

Please delete the reply messages from Cantabrigian?

They are denigrating to me and everybody else who replied to this topic that I posted last week. Plus, Cantabrigian's reply messages to this topic are valueless, worthless, meaningless and are of no help whatsoever to anybody on Ask Andy About Clothes in anyway. 

Of course, if Cantabrigian changes his messages so that they are not denigrating, valueless, worthless and meaningless, then deleting his reply messages to this topic will not be necessary. 

Thank you in advance.


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## Akajack (Jun 15, 2007)

Audi - probably best to just let this one go and learn from your mistake. Just my opinion, of course.


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

Akajack said:


> Audi - probably best to just let this one go and learn from your mistake. Just my opinion, of course.


My mistake? In what way?


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## Akajack (Jun 15, 2007)

Sorry I wasn't intending to place blame - only to point out what happened. I meant your mistake of posting too much personal informatoin on an Internet chat board. As you can see it has come back to bite you. I know I've learned from making that mistake before. Learn and move on.


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

Akajack said:


> Sorry I wasn't intending to place blame - only to point out what happened. I meant your mistake of posting too much personal informatoin on an Internet chat board. As you can see it has come back to bite you. I know I've learned from making that mistake before. Learn and move on.


I understand what you are saying.


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## Cantabrigian (Aug 29, 2005)

Akajack said:


> Sorry I wasn't intending to place blame - only to point out what happened. I meant your mistake of posting too much personal informatoin on an Internet chat board. As you can see it has come back to bite you. I know I've learned from making that mistake before. Learn and move on.


I'm not trying to embarass anyone. I just think that the people who have taken the time to respond seriously might appreciate knowing the backstory.


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## 16412 (Apr 1, 2005)

Cantabrigian said:


> I'm not trying to embarass anyone. I just think that the people who have taken the time to respond seriously might appreciate knowing the backstory.


That is just stupid!! How ridiculous can you get? Not to mention shameful. One never knows ones future, including yours. Some wealthy people have ended up living under bridges, while some poor have ended up living in mansions. Everybody wants to know somethings about the best in life, and, how much one has ($$) has nothing to do with it. People who step on the poor ought to be shot. This one child in middle school was taking heroin at the age of 12, and other rich kids on drugs in high school, obviously wealth and intelligents don't go together. Then there are some intelligent people with some bad luck. Wealth starts with a dream.

So, Cantabrigian, you ought to get your head out of the gutter.


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## trimaldo (Jul 29, 2007)

WA said:


> and other rich kids on drugs in high school, obviously wealth and intelligents don't go together.


Quoted for the delicious soupcon of irony.


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## rkipperman (Mar 19, 2006)

Cantabrigian said:


> TC,
> 
> How did you get around those pesky welfare fraud rules?
> 
> Maybe I should change careers so that I too can afford a bespoke Savile Row (London) wardrobe from bespoke tailors to go with my bespoke diamond-encrusted watch.


This guy reminds me of "Howard."


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## Cantabrigian (Aug 29, 2005)

WA said:


> That is just stupid!! How ridiculous can you get? Not to mention shameful. One never knows ones future, including yours. Some wealthy people have ended up living under bridges, while some poor have ended up living in mansions. Everybody wants to know somethings about the best in life, and, how much one has ($$) has nothing to do with it. People who step on the poor ought to be shot. This one child in middle school was taking heroin at the age of 12, and other rich kids on drugs in high school, obviously wealth and intelligents don't go together. Then there are some intelligent people with some bad luck. Wealth starts with a dream.
> 
> So, Cantabrigian, you ought to get your head out of the gutter.


I don't think I have enough intelligents [] to understand exactly what you're driving at.

I'm fairly willing to bet that I will end up living under a worse bridge than the one under which I currently reside. Maybe I need better dreams. I have a lot - like being a Russian oligarch or rapper or Univision gameshow host - but I'm still not shining.

I haven't read a Howard thread in a while but it seems like Howard pretty much keeps to himself, says hi to new members and tells cyberspace about his day.


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

It's not Gold?


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## iammatt (Sep 17, 2005)

> It's not Gold?


Nope, the color is "International Orange".

The words Golden Gate came before the bridge and reference the strait created by the city and the Marin Headlands.


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## Cantabrigian (Aug 29, 2005)

Jersey hasta la muerte.


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## Bonhamesque (Sep 5, 2005)

dopey said:


> I am offended that people have tried to discourage you from asking and asking questions on the topic of buying bespoke tailored clothing from bespoke tailors located on Savile Row in London, England or from bespoke tailors in New York, New York. Your questions, and the answers given to your questions by other people who provide the answers will be helpful to other members who have questions on the topic of buying bespoke tailored clothing from bespoke tailors located on Savile Row in London, England or from bespoke tailors in New York, New York. Thanks dopey.


:icon_smile_big::icon_smile_wink:


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## Bishop of Briggs (Sep 7, 2007)

Can you buy bespoke tailored clothing from non-bespoke tailors located on Savile Row in London, England? :icon_smile_big:


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## dopey (Jan 17, 2005)

Bishop of Briggs said:


> Can you buy bespoke tailored clothing from non-bespoke tailors located on Savile Row in London, England? :icon_smile_big:


This question has too many senses. 
Do you meant to ask if you can buy bespoke tailored clothing from tailors other than bespoke tailors who are located on Savile Row in London, England?

OR

Do you mean to ask if you can buy bespoke tailored clothing from tailors who are located on Savile Row in London, England but who are not bespoke tailors?

Which is it? We can't help you if you don't ask your question clearly. Thanks dopey


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## whnay. (Dec 30, 2004)

What a strange place this place and other forum boards can be. I cannot believe I wasted a part of my life reading this thread.


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

whnay. said:


> What a strange place this place and other forum boards can be. I cannot believe I wasted a part of my life reading this thread.


 Hell, I just wasted time reading your reply.


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## AZTEC (May 11, 2005)

let me echo that.

AZTEC


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

AZTEC said:


> let me echo that.
> 
> AZTEC


If you, Alex and whnay feel that this topic is a waste of time, then why reply to it?


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## 16412 (Apr 1, 2005)

Audi S5 TC said:


> If you, Alex and whnay feel that this topic is a waste of time, then why reply to it?


There is a time for humor. And Alex has been sleeping for a while.


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

WA said:


> There is a time for humor. And Alex has been sleeping for a while.


I guess I can understand that.


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