# Dating Brooks Bros. Clothing (Blazers, Odd Jackets) by Label



## aucociscokid (Jan 17, 2006)

Is it possible to establish the date of manufacture of Brooks Bros. clothing, esp. blazers, odd jackets, etc. by the label affixed to the interior chest pocket of the item, please? See labels of the garments for which estimated dates of manufacture are sought in the public area of my AskAndy profile. Thanks, all.


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## wacolo (Jul 21, 2006)

Blazers and such might be a bit trickier but here are....

Shirt Labels

Also


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## aucociscokid (Jan 17, 2006)

Is possible to date B/B blazers with just a collar label (no interior chest pocket one)? Also: date 3 separate blazers with these 3 different collar labels, please? Thanks.

1. Brooks Brothers
Established 1818
Made in USA Dry Clean Only

2. Brooks Brothers w/a Woolmark TM

3. Brooks Brothers
Makers
Established 1818
Dry Clean Only


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## Spin Evans (Feb 2, 2013)

The archives are a pain to navigate, so this may be more useful.

https://www.google.com/search?clien...j2.6.0....0...1c.1.43.serp..7.0.0.7ljuL9bpLNY


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## aucociscokid (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks, "Spin." I'm beginning to get it thanks to your - others - help. Slowly, but surely. I have a "learning curve." "Golden Fleece" is at the top of the BB hierarchy, w/"Makers" not anywhere near as good. A blazer with "tower-and-gate" buttons is their "University" line. Where is that in the hierarchy? Thanks. N.B. I usually use the Forum search function with regard to the term before posting. Sometimes I can come up with the answer myself. Sometimes not.


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## Spin Evans (Feb 2, 2013)

https://askandyaboutclothes.com/com...archy-suits-and-jackets&p=1365165#post1365165 is a pretty good primer. Makers is top stuff, my blazer is Makers and I'm almost certain it's fully canvassed. Vintage 346 from before the outlet-period is also good. Brooksgate (which featured the Buckingham Palace gate buttons) supplanted the BB University line, but was the same general idea. The easiest way to tell if it's new or not is to check the collar label: if it's script, then it's new. If it's block letters, then it's older. Before gold on navy labels, there was gold on white and silver on black (most recent to oldest). I've seen labels for pre-'60s items, but those are few and far between.


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## aucociscokid (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks, again "Spin" and for the link. As Forum member SLieber says on it, "... (T)his thread is really helpful for the newer (and probably some of the older) guys here. Now I'll actually have an idea what the hell I'm looking at on eBay and the Exchange." Another related question, if I may, please: How would OVERALL quality of the blazers be categorized in the 1980s and 1990s; pre- and post-Marks and Spencer, if you will?


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

BB had a lot of different lines and labels over the years, and a full guide would be a worthwhile project but I don't have time for it right now.

As a GENERAL guide, you can go by the color, shape, and placement of the labels as a guide to age.

Up until the M&S era, Brooks tags were rectangular and found in the neck area of the jacket. Anything from this era is at least decent quality.

Brown tag with white lettering: 30s-40s



Black/navy tag with white lettering: Late 40s or 50s through early or mid 60s


















Blue tag with yellow lettering: Late '60s through '80s




EXCEPTION: Around the time of the M&S changeover, quality went down while they still used the rectangular, blue-and-yellow neck label format. This is one example I've seen recently - the addition of the Woolmark image and more small text on the label is a giveaway.



In the '90s, under M&S, BB went to mostly more squareish tags located inside the breast area of the jacket. Some were blue with yellow lettering, many were black or grey with silver lettering. Quality was MOSTLY not very good, though there were exceptions.










In the 00s, in the post-M&S RBA era, it took a few years, but quality gradually returned. Labels stayed squareish and in the breast area, but they went exclusively to a blue-and-gold color scheme, and the BB script logo got smaller and more refined. Then the 1818 line was launched, and a couple years later the Madison/Regent/Fitzgerald fits made their way onto the labels.


























If there are particular tags you're curious about, post a picture and I can probably date them to within a decade or so.


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## aucociscokid (Jan 17, 2006)

Hey! Thanks very much, Orgetorix!!! Extraordinary. Comprehensive in knowledge. Very helpful. Courteous. I will definitely take you up on your label ID offer at - probably - some future date. Your post was helpful in assisting in the ID of vintage BB blazer under consideration as a purchase - establishing it as a pre-Marks and Spencer (Good). From a another Members post on BB blazer buttons, I believe that buttons with what are the Buckingham Palace gates (which I didn't know) on them - and which the garment under consideration as a purchase has - means its from their "Brookgate" line; i.e. slimmer cut and offered (originally) at less expensive price - it is of less interest. Of course - and naturally - I'd be interested in other Members views and comments re: "Brooksgate": material, construction, etc. Thanks, again. Are you - by the way - any relation to Vercingetorix with whom I established a relationship in my HS Latin class (in 1967!!!).


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## gamma68 (Mar 24, 2013)

This is a nice general resource, Orgetorix.

If I may, I've been curious about the pictured shirt label for a while. Any insight as to time period?


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## aucociscokid (Jan 17, 2006)

Now: If it can only be determined (guesstimated?) when Norman Hilton ceased operating in Linden, NJ. Aware of Alex. Kabazz's contribution on another thread to it: But, more on the overall history of N. Hilton as well as estimations of the quality down through the years would be appreciated, too? Thanks.


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

gamma68 said:


> This is a nice general resource, Orgetorix.
> 
> If I may, I've been curious about the pictured shirt label for a while. Any insight as to time period?
> 
> View attachment 11313


I'm not as up on my BB shirt labels, but I'd guess this one to be 50s or 60s. How many buttons does it have on the front?


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## gamma68 (Mar 24, 2013)

Orgetorix said:


> I'm not as up on my BB shirt labels, but I'd guess this one to be 50s or 60s. How many buttons does it have on the front?


Five buttons in front, six if you include the neck button.


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