# Can most tailors take in and/or hem jeans? Is this common?



## ciscostud (Jan 3, 2007)

With all of my thought about buying some new jeans, one question came to mind.

Can most tailors take in and/or hem jeans? Is this common?
Jeans shrink and then they may stretch back some. If the jeans I buy are a little loose or a little long, can I just go to most tailors and have them hemmed? What about taken in a little? Forget letting out I guess, but I don't care about that.

Thank you!


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## omairp (Aug 21, 2006)

Hemming jeans is a very simple and very common task for all tailors. You can get the tailor to shorten the jeans and create a new hem, or if you specially ask, you can get a tailor to actually remove the old hem and re-sew it on the shortened pants (this costs more, but if the jeans have some sort of frayed/distressed hem, this preserves it perfectly.)

Taking in jeans is impossible, AFIK.


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## 44XT (Aug 2, 2005)

My tailor has a prominent sign in his front window that says "Jean Hems $10.00" He tells me it is the bread and butter of his business these days. And lest you think it is simply an alteration business, he is one of the last tailors in this area with skills to build you a bespoke suit.


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## Cruiser (Jul 21, 2006)

I'e had numerous pairs of jeans shortened and I don't even bother my tailor for this. The women at any of the dry cleaners around my house do a great job for anywhere from $8 to $11 a pair. The only thing about them that looks different from the original look is that the hemmed area doesn't have the little ridges like when they are new; however, a couple of washings and they reappear like magic.

My tailor on the other hand can even take jeans that are frayed and duplicate that frayed look after re-hemming. I've seen several women request this when they bring in a new pair of "old" jeans. Of course this costs more than simply shortening the jeans. I get the impression that most men do what I do and simply take their jeans to the alterations lady at the dry cleaners.

Cruiser


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## ciscostud (Jan 3, 2007)

So I guess hemmed jeans can look like they came from the factory with the orange thread or whatever at the bottom of the legs?

I thought taking in jeans could be a problem. 

Here is a MILLION DOLLAR QUESTION, since you can't take in jeans . Is it better for a BRAND NEW PAIR of jeans that YOU JUST TRY ON IN THE STORE to fit a little on the loose side or a little on the tight side given shrinkage and stretching? Most jeans I try in the store fit a little loose or a little tight. I am not sure which way to go. I think a little loose? I am confused because I hear they shrink, BUT then they stretch.

Thanks!


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## tripreed (Dec 8, 2005)

ciscostud said:


> Here is a MILLION DOLLAR QUESTION, since you can't take in jeans . Is it better for a BRAND NEW PAIR of jeans that YOU JUST TRY ON IN THE STORE to fit a little on the loose side or a little on the tight side given shrinkage and stretching? Most jeans I try in the store fit a little loose or a little tight. I am not sure which way to go. I think a little loose? I am confused because I hear they shrink, BUT then they stretch.


I think you would actually be better to buy jeans a little tight (though only a little) because they will stetch out, especially if you do not wash them too often (not washing them will also soften them up). If you choose wash your jeans after every wear, you _might_ be better off buying some that are too loose, although most jeans are sanforized so that shrinkage will be minimal. However, if you were to wash them on hot and dry them on hot repeatedly, you might get a little more shrinkage. Hope this helps.


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## the etruscan (Mar 9, 2007)

ciscostud said:


> With all of my thought about buying some new jeans, one question came to mind.
> 
> Can most tailors take in and/or hem jeans? Is this common?
> Jeans shrink and then they may stretch back some. If the jeans I buy are a little loose or a little long, can I just go to most tailors and have them hemmed? What about taken in a little? Forget letting out I guess, but I don't care about that.
> ...


In terms of "Taking in," most tailors can take the waist in about an inch, not much more easily, and some can taper the legs, a few (one of the two stores called denim doctor in LA, 45 RPM in NYC, possibly Gordon at Blue in Green) can do it in the style of your soon-to-be-acquired fancy japanese denim.

Any tailor can hem jeans. That being said, the hems on the nicer japanese jeans and almost certainly on strongholds are done with a union special locking chainstitch machine. Alexander Kabbaz explains in an old thread on jeans why a locking chainstitch isn't locking, but I can't remember the reason. The pattern that forms on chainstitched hems, which people like so much is called "roping" because the hem twists in the direction of the twill due to shrinkage. Most tailors don't have these machines, one of the Denim Doctors does, Stronghold may, Blue in Green does but won't hem jeans you didn't buy there, same with Self Edge, 45 RPM does.

In terms of size, I'd say there are a few ways to buy them.

If the jeans are sanforized (preshrunk) or one-washed, you will want to buy them tight, but how tight depends on how mjuch the denim you choose stretches.

If the jeans are raw, they will shrink. How much they will shrink depends on the denim, I've seen some shrink 1/2" and others shrink 3.5" in the waist. Anyone selling raw denim should have a good idea of how you should size it. I know all the shops I mentioned except denim doctors will give you a very good idea.

Chuck's Vintage may well have a chainstitch machine, I've got no idea.

For model-specific fit advice, I would ask in the small questions thread in the Denim forum at superfuture.

EDIT: One of the denim doctor stores in LA is good, one is terrifyingly bad. I can't remember which is which, but if you care, I'll look it up.


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## Tonyp (May 8, 2007)

Your question is more of a personal preference. I have most of my jeans fit more tightly . I don't like too loose a fit. The biggest problem when buying jeans is finding the right ones that fit the way you want. some are too low rised and some are too high rised. I don't like baggy jeans. So consequently I try 5-10 different pairs, styles and Manufacturers to find one that fits right. 

I wash my jeans after 3-4 wearing or when they start to feel like they need to be washed. They do stretch out a little but not enough to be sloppy. Make sure that the seat fits snuggly. Don't buy jeans that are loose in the seat unless you like that feel.


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## Acct2000 (Sep 24, 2005)

I take most of my pants including jeans to a local tailor. I'm lucky; she charges $4 for slacks and $5 for jeans. (I don't know why jeans are more; I don't ask questions; I'm glad she does it for the price she charges!) She does a good job, although I have not liked the results when she alters shirts.

She's fine with pants, either shortening the legs or taking in the waist, and quite cost-effective.


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## Cruiser (Jul 21, 2006)

the etruscan said:


> the hems on the nicer japanese jeans and almost certainly on strongholds are done with a union special locking chainstitch machine. Alexander Kabbaz explains in an old thread on jeans why a locking chainstitch isn't locking, but I can't remember the reason. The pattern that forms on chainstitched hems, which people like so much is called "roping" because the hem twists in the direction of the twill due to shrinkage.


Whew, a lot going on there. I guess those of us who plop down $21.99 for a pair of Lee jeans don't really get into it this deep. :icon_smile_big:

Cruiser


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## Ace_Face (May 19, 2007)

I've got a pair of a jeans that are an inch or so too long. I have considered taking them in for a hem, but still want the hem to look original. Searched all over the internet, and voila, found the "French hem." Haven't yet tried it, but it may be a good solution...


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## tripreed (Dec 8, 2005)

the etruscan said:


> That being said, the hems on the nicer japanese jeans and almost certainly on strongholds are done with a union special locking chainstitch machine.


According to a thread on Supertalk, I believe it's actually a *double-*locking chain stitch.


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## the etruscan (Mar 9, 2007)

tripreed said:


> According to a thread on Supertalk, I believe it's actually a *double-*locking chain stitch.


Oops. Thanks!


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