# Are the World's Best Men's Shoes Now Being Made in Japan?



## Flanderian

I think they might be. A bold question or perhaps only a foolish one. But superlatives beg comparisons. First I haven't personally traded with all the world's shoemakers, or even all of those in Japan. So I'm going strictly by eyeball scrutiny of those to which I've been exposed. And foolish also because of the proper esteem held for the many fine makes of Northamtonshire, Italy, Spain and eastern Europe.

And what do I mean by best? Because it can quite properly mean different things to different people. My definition is simple, the most beautiful shoes, of the most careful precision made from exquisite materials. And based solely upon this description, the shoes I'm seeing are not of the best, but among the best *ever!*

Now should you wish to ask how you may acquire such, it's really simple, all you will need is $3,000+, a round trip 1st class ticket to Japan, and about a year's patience. 

Seiji McCarthy -



















TYE Shoemakers -










Yohei Fukuda -



















On the hoof -


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## Oldsarge

For some reason I am seriously uninterested. $3K? For something to put on my feet? I think not.


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## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> For some reason I am seriously uninterested. $3K? For something to put on my feet? I think not.


I love fine automobiles. I would very much enjoy and appreciate a Bentley. For me it's not a status symbol, it's an experience. I've never had one, and shall not, and I'm fine with that. But that makes one no less beautiful or wonderful.


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## Oldsarge

Okay, in that mode I feel the same way about shotguns. Own an original Dickson round action? Not in this lifetime. But I have to admit that I feel they are the ultimate. I once had the opportunity to handle (fondle!) several David McKay Brown round actions. It was a near religious experience.


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## Adelstensfostre

Although I can just about wrap my head around the concept of spending $3000 for a pair of shoes, threads like this is a constant, and very welcome, reminder of why I will never do so.

To my eye and my sensibilities, the shoes pictured are more akin to pretty ornaments most suited for displaying on a mantelpiece or display case. Though undeniably lovely and undoubtedly of the highest quality, most are simply far, far and away too dandified and effete for me to consider both buying and wearing.

Fortunately for me and my wallet both, my tastes are securely anchored in Northampton. Still, if I should ever find myself with $3000 I can think of absolutely no other use for and an empty mantelpiece to boot, who knows.....


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## drlivingston

Japanese or not, those shoes are stunning. The sleek silhouettes are captivating.


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## Flanderian

To muddy my own waters, I don't believe these are Japanese, but aren't they remarkable? (Don't let Roger see them! )


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## drlivingston

Skoaking the fire!


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## winghus

Flanderian said:


> To muddy my own waters, I don't believe these are Japanese, but aren't they remarkable? (Don't let Roger see them! )
> 
> View attachment 17537


Those are Bonafe I believe. There was a pair on ebay not too long ago.


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## Flanderian

drlivingston said:


> Skoaking the fire!


:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :icon_hailthee:


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## Kyle76

Looking at the box, it appears they carry the ebola virus.


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## eagle2250

Having looked upon and lusted mightily for the examples memorably handsome leather art, offered by Flanderian for our continued torment, I feel the need to head off to Sunday services to ask for much needed forgiveness! LOL.


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## SG_67

Kyle76 said:


> Looking at the box, it appears they carry the ebola virus.


Well, then I doubt anyone would be tempted to take it from your porch.


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## Kyle76

Maybe we should mark all of our packages that way.


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## SG_67

While I like the silhouette overall, I'm not crazy about the heels. I realize that it may be considered classic, but there's something feminine about them. They're just a bit too high and they taper.


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## JBierly

Clearly the examples you show are just about as beautiful a shoe 


SG_67 said:


> While I like the silhouette overall, I'm not crazy about the heels. I realize that it may be considered classic, but there's something feminine about them. They're just a bit too high and they taper.


I guess I would call them cuban heels - at least on dance shoes that's what they are. Change your name to antonio and learn how to salsa and no one will consider you feminine. Having said that - I get your point.


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## RogerP

Flanderian said:


> To muddy my own waters, I don't believe these are Japanese, but aren't they remarkable? (Don't let Roger see them! )
> View attachment 17537


Those are Italian - and bloody terrific.

I don't have any hands on experience with Japanese makers, but you'd have to be blind not to see the exceptional quality and style being produced by the top Japanese makers these days.


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## JBierly

I agree - the Japanese are making some of the best shoes out there. I also agree that they are a bit hard to obtain and probably aren't worth it. As for I would never spend that kind of money on shoes its all a matter of disposable income and wants. Artisanal products have value over mass produced and clearly in this example the quality shows through. Some people refuse to spend 7 dollars on a coffee (it is kind of retarded to spend that much) or 100 dollars on a bottle of wine, etc... At least unlike wine (another hobby of mine) you don't destroy your collection by drinking it - instead here you slowly wear it to death - hopefully over years if not decades. Indeed if properly cared for they may last much longer than a car or even a house both which are much more expensive and depreciate also.


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## SG_67

It's one thing to craft something that is the ultimate expression of that things form and function. 

It's another thing to have that thing appeal to everyone, be it due to aesthetic reasons or financial. 

Those are very pretty shoes indeed. Assuming I knew where to get them and found some with heels that I liked, I would consider them.


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## Flanderian

JBierly said:


> I also agree that they are a bit hard to obtain and probably aren't worth it. As for I would never spend that kind of money on shoes its all a matter of disposable income and wants.


The cost I offered, $3,000+, was estimated only by locating the cost for one of the makers as starting at $2,900. The others may well be more. And while I have neither the means, nor would that be the chosen allocation of such if I did, I think it's important to put those prices in perspective.

Perhaps I assumed incorrectly that all would know these shoes are all true bespoke. And disregarding the comparative values between such and RTW, most fine true bespoke shoes are dramatically more costly than even top quality RTW. The amount of the artisans' time just one pair consumes can be weeks, and Japan is not an inexpensive country. Such a price for these shoes is not out of line, or price gouging, at all. If the quality is as it appears, it's actually a rather good value.

For example, every indication is that Foster and Son in Britain still makes exceptional bespoke shoes. If you were to compare these costs to theirs, I think you'd find them quite modest. And while it's true that Foster and Son is far more famous and venerable and therefore commands a higher price, that's a marketing reality, and not in any way related to their comparative quality.

The market for bespoke shoes is a very small one because of the expense, and the fact very few men can't be well satisfied with what fine footwear the RTW market does offer.

Edit: OK, I located Foster's price. It's. $3,861.

Double Edit: American bespoke maker Perry Ercolino's bespoke shoes *begin* at $3,800.


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## Langham

^ I think you've offered us a very fair assessment there, Flanderian. The Japanese are superb craftsmen in many fields, with a long and rich history of perfecting and improving on foreign concepts and inventions (e.g. watches, motor cars, naval architecture).


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## Flanderian

Langham said:


> ^ I think you've offered us a very fair assessment there, Flanderian. The Japanese are superb craftsmen in many fields, with a long and rich history of perfecting and improving on foreign concepts and inventions (e.g. watches, motor cars, naval architecture).


Thank you!


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## JBierly

Flanderian said:


> The cost I offered, $3,000+, was estimated only by locating the cost for one of the makers as starting at $2,900. The others may well be more. And while I have neither the means, nor would that be the chosen allocation of such if I did, I think it's important to put those prices in perspective.
> 
> Perhaps I assumed incorrectly that all would know these shoes are all true bespoke. And disregarding the comparative values between such and RTW, most fine true bespoke shoes are dramatically more costly than even top quality RTW. The amount of the artisans' time just one pair consumes can be weeks, and Japan is not an inexpensive country. Such a price for these shoes is not out of line, or price gouging, at all. If the quality is as it appears, it's actually a rather good value.
> 
> For example, every indication is that Foster and Son in Britain still makes exceptional bespoke shoes. If you were to compare these costs to theirs, I think you'd find them quite modest. And while it's true that Foster and Son is far more famous and venerable and therefore commands a higher price, that's a marketing reality, and not in any way related to their comparative quality.
> 
> The market for bespoke shoes is a very small one because of the expense, and the fact very few men can't be well satisfied with what fine footwear the RTW market does offer.
> 
> Edit: OK, I located Foster's price. It's. $3,861.
> 
> Double Edit: American bespoke maker Perry Ercolino's bespoke shoes *begin* at $3,800.


After a bit more research it looks like most of these Japanese shoe makers are small production and do some RTW for about half the cost of their Bespoke. The greater point is that at the high end around 4000 dollars it is actually a pretty decent price for bespoke shoes of this quality. Obviously way above most peoples budget for a pair of shoes but still in comparison to other things that people routinely purchase such as computers and TVs and large appliances perhaps not so unaffordable. All I am saying is most people could never conceive of buying a jet airplane for example. On the other hand, if a pair of bespoke shoes from Japan was on your "bucket list" maybe one could find a way.


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## JBierly

The other interesting Caveat is at least a couple of these artisans trained with Tony while he was at EG. So it's still is a small world for bespoke.


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## Langham

JBierly said:


> The other interesting Caveat is at least a couple of these artisans trained with Tony while he was at EG. So it still is a small world for bespoke.


I was going to say that one or two did remind me a little of G&G.

The big difference, I think, is that most Northampton shoes are made for a much bigger (yet still quite select) market than can be catered for by bespoke shoemakers.


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## Flanderian

For contrast, this is a vintage Henry Maxwell bespoke half-brogue. I have very little information on HM, but my understanding is that it was one of the finest bespoke shoemakers of its era, and perhaps *the* finest.

A great obvious difference between this and the Japanese makers is the shape of the last. The young Japanese makers are following the fashion trend of elongated lasts with the vamp extended making the foot appear longer, whereas, the approach and intent of the Maxwell shoe is the opposite.

I think both are elegant and beautiful, but my personal preference is for the approach taken by the Maxwell shoe.

Sorry folks, it seems as if the copy and paste function I've been using isn't working again.

OK, there it is!


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## Langham

Flanderian said:


> For contrast, this is a vintage Henry Maxwell bespoke half-brogue. I have very little information on HM, but my understanding is that it was one of the finest bespoke shoemakers of its ear, and perhaps *the* finest.
> 
> A great obvious difference between this and the Japanese makers is the shape of the last. The young Japanese makers are following the fashion trend of elongated lasts with the vamp extended making the foot appear longer, whereas, the approach and intent of the Maxwell shoe is the opposite.
> 
> I think both are elegant and beautiful, but my personal preference is for the approach taken by the Maxwell shoe.
> 
> Sorry folks, it seems as if the copy and paste function I've been using isn't working again.
> 
> OK, there it is!


Maxwells are owned by Foster's - have been for quite a long time. They are well-known for making riding boots - in fact I didn't know that they had ever made shoes, but it makes sense.

Maxwell riding boots are famous - their name (or rather that of 'Craxwell' - Siegfried Sassoon was fond of a bit of word play with names, especially place names) appears in his _Memoirs of a Fox-Hunting Man_.

If you visit Foster's shop in Jermyn Street today, they will still sell you, or rather measure you for, a pair of Maxwell boots. They cost just over £5,000 last time I asked - I was well out of my depth there. You go back a year later to try them on.


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## Langham

^ It seems I was wrong, they still make shoes as well as riding boots.

https://www.henrymaxwell.co.uk/our-history/
https://www.henrymaxwell.co.uk/bespoke-shoes-and-boots/

Their riding boots now cost £8,000 - prices for riding boots have gone up very rapidly and are now rather silly. I paid £350 for a pair, made to measure by Horace Batten, in 1999.


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## SG_67

^ does that come with a horse?


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## Flanderian

Langham said:


> ^ It seems I was wrong, they still make shoes as well as riding boots.


Are you left to wonder how they differ from the bespoke shoes that Foster sells made presumably by the same craftsmen?


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## Langham

SG_67 said:


> ^ does that come with a horse?


It should, shouldn't it? You can get a perfectly good horse for £5k.


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## Langham

Flanderian said:


> Are you left to wonder how the differ from the bespoke shoes that Foster's sells made presumably the same craftsmen?


I did wonder. Presumably there is some subtle way of telling them apart. I think the Fosters might be a bit more elongated. The British Motor Corporation once had a very sly way of making the same car in slightly different ways to appeal to different socio-economic groups - Wolseleys, Rileys, Austins, Morrises, in descending order, but all basically the same car.


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## SG_67

^ American car makers excelled at this! 

Lincoln town car, mercury marquis and the ford crown Victoria.


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## Flanderian

By Yohei Fukuda for chisel-toe fans. A lovely spectator -


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## Flanderian

Noriyuki Misawa -










TYE Shoemakers -


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## SG_67

Flanderian said:


> By Yohei Fukuda for chisel-toe fans. A lovely spectator -


What an incredibly pretty shoe!


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## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> By Yohei Fukuda for chisel-toe fans. A lovely spectator -





Flanderian said:


> Noriyuki Misawa -
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> TYE Shoemakers -


I've owned a lot of shoes in my life - and some pretty nice ones - but not one of those even comes close to looking as beautiful as any of these.


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## JBierly

Flanderian said:


> By Yohei Fukuda for chisel-toe fans. A lovely spectator -


At least for my tastes - this type of elongated last shoe is so much more elegant than a rounded shoe that there simply is no comparison as to which last I prefer. I suppose if you have inordinately large feet for your frame this would not be a good thing. Conversely if you are 6 feet tall and have a size 8 shoe the elongated last is a good thing!


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## Flanderian

SG_67 said:


> What an incredibly pretty shoe!





Fading Fast said:


> I've owned a lot of shoes in my life - and some pretty nice ones - but not one of those even comes close to looking as beautiful as any of these.


Justin FitzPatrick who makes beautiful footwear of his own is a gentleman I respect for his knowledge of and candor about footwear. And he remarked to the effect that there's Yohei Fukuda, and then everybody else.



JBierly said:


> At least for my tastes - this type of elongated last shoe is so much more elegant than a rounded shoe that there simply is no comparison as to which last I prefer. I suppose if you have inordinately large feet for your frame this would not be a good thing. Conversely if you are 6 feet tall and have a size 8 shoe the elongated last is a good thing!


Despite my enjoyment of, and appreciation for these beautiful shoes, my own preference is for a less elongated last. TYE Shoemakers which does such careful, precise work is often more classic, and Yohei Fukuda's bespoke is literally a one-off with significant differences in shape for each pair depending upon his aesthetic inspiration and the client's individual preferences.


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## Flanderian

JBierly said:


> At least for my tastes - this type of elongated last shoe is so much more elegant than a rounded shoe that there simply is no comparison as to which last I prefer. I suppose if you have inordinately large feet for your frame this would not be a good thing. Conversely if you are 6 feet tall and have a size 8 shoe the elongated last is a good thing!


Another Japanese maker is Corno Blu. They're a small workshop, but I don't know who are the individual artisans there. Their work is very lovely, though I do think makers such as Fukuda are at a higher level. But the shoe below is credited to them, and is particularly notable for employing a classic last of the sort that was once the hallmark of bespoke, similar to that of the Maxwell shoe above.


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## barca10

Flanderian said:


> Noriyuki Misawa -


These shoes are amazing.


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## Flanderian

Yohei Fukuda -










TYE Shoemaker -


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## Hebrew Barrister

These shoes are works of art, but some of them, I have to wonder, whose feet are shaped like that??


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## Flanderian

Hebrew Barrister said:


> These shoes are works of art, but some of them, I have to wonder, whose feet are shaped like that??


The wise-*** answer is the guy they were made for, as they're pretty much all bespoke. 

But I take your meaning as they generally appear longer and curvier than much of what is depicted. And while none of them actually looks like most feet, the foot is also curvier than it often appears. If you look at two footprints in the sand, or footprints from someone who had wet feet walking by a pool, what you'll see is something that looks rather like commas, elongated, broader and rounded in the front, thin in the middle and with a heel much narrower than the forefoot. You can actually often tell more about the fit of a shoe by looking at the sole than the upper.

And if you look at the sole of the last Fukuda shoe I posted, the sole isn't all that different from the comma I described. The upper only looks very different because we're not accustomed to seeing shoes made with this degree of precision and art. Very narrow waists are one of the hallmarks of great shoes, and actually very comfortable because they mimic the contact patch of the sole of the foot.

Shoes with an elongated last are deceptive because you're quite right that feet aren't shaped that way. But in such lasts the forefoot doesn't fill the full length of the toe box and is instead nestled in the broader portion behind the tip. It may not look comfortable, but it can be. I have only one pair of footwear on an slightly elongated last, and it fits as I describe, but is very comfortable. I attached a photo of the boot's sole below.

So while the curvy, elongated lasts with a last that appears very narrow may not look like a foot, they can in fact provide these sleek curves while often also furnishing a very comfortable fit.


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## Flanderian

Hebrew Barrister said:


> These shoes are works of art, but some of them, I have to wonder, whose feet are shaped like that??


Added today, this photo of a sole level head-on (I guess that should be toe-on. ) view of a pair of Yohei Fukuda shoes, while not swoopy and curvey actually has a shape remarkably similar to what a foot would look like photographed from the same perspective.


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## JBierly

Hebrew Barrister said:


> These shoes are works of art, but some of them, I have to wonder, whose feet are shaped like that??


I think the misconception really is whose feet look like most shoes that have very wide waists. If you look at your foot you realize that a very narrow waist is more reflective of the footprint of a typical foot unless you have an extremely flat foot. I agree that the elongation of the toe box is not necessary for most feet. Indeed a very narrow waist and a short rounded toe would probably be the shape of a shoe that would conform to most feet.


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## ItalianStyle

Back in the 1980's in my country, people whose jobs involved a lot of walking or standing were advised to wear these shoes as they were - allegedly - the best shape for your feet.

They might be, but they're not exactly stylish...


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## Flanderian

Eiji Murata -


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## Titus_A

Those are certainly some exquisite leathers, but the propensity for boxed-off toes doesn't do it for me. That Noriyuki Misawa at the top of the page, though: that's beautiful.


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## JBierly

Titus_A said:


> Those are certainly some exquisite leathers, but the propensity for boxed-off toes doesn't do it for me. That Noriyuki Misawa at the top of the page, though: that's beautiful.


I am curious why you have the aversion to a "boxed-off" aka chisel toe?


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## JBierly

ItalianStyle said:


> Back in the 1980's in my country, people whose jobs involved a lot of walking or standing were advised to wear these shoes as they were - allegedly - the best shape for your feet.
> 
> They might be, but they're not exactly stylish...
> View attachment 18765


Great for postal office.


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## Flanderian

JBierly said:


> I am curious why you have the aversion to a "boxed-off" aka chisel toe?


Thanks for explaining the term "boxed-off" as I had not encountered it before. The epitome of the chisel-toe, the English maker Cleverly -










And these, credited as Yohie Fukuda RTW. At least I think that is what is trying to be conveyed. If so, they look as good as his bespoke -


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## Mr. B. Scott Robinson

Lurking and greatly enjoying this discussion.

Cheers,

BSR


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## SG_67

Flanderian said:


> Yohei Fukuda -
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> TYE Shoemaker -


Now that's just pornography!


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## Flanderian

Yohei Fukuda. Don't know whether RTW or bespoke, though think they may be RTW. Model described as "Ebony." Hide, "Misty Chestnut."


Edit: OK, they *are* RTW! *Only*  $2,300 via Swedish retailer!

https://www.thesabot.com/collections/yohei-fukuda


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## eagle2250

^^
Egad, at that price and given my past demonstrated inclinations, I suspect if I were to buy a pair, I would be afraid to wear them out in the real world...and I would be stuck with another pair of closet queens! However, they are so, sooo beautiful.


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## JBierly

Flanderian said:


> Yohei Fukuda. Don't know whether RTW or bespoke, though think they may be RTW. Model described as "Ebony." Hide, "Misty Chestnut."
> 
> 
> Edit: OK, they *are* RTW! *Only*  $2,300 via Swedish retailer!
> 
> https://www.thesabot.com/collections/yohei-fukuda


Yes - these are RTW (basically a group MTO)


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## JBierly

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> Egad, at that price and given my past demonstrated inclinations, I suspect if I were to buy a pair, I would be afraid to wear them out in the real world...and I would be stuck with another pair of closet queens! However, they are so, sooo beautiful.


Those shoes need to come out of the closet! No queens in the closet.


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## JBierly

Flanderian said:


> Thanks for explaining the term "boxed-off" as I had not encountered it before. The epitome of the chisel-toe, the English maker Cleverly -
> 
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> And these, credited as Yohie Fukuda RTW. At least I think that is what is trying to be conveyed. If so, they look as good as his bespoke -


There is some slight variation of the chisel toe depending on the maker. At least for G and G they have a classic square and a soft square. As for Fukuda RTW and bespoke I think they are the same shoe quality wise - but I guess that's the reason they are $2300.


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## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> Egad, at that price and given my past demonstrated inclinations, I suspect if I were to buy a pair, I would be afraid to wear them out in the real world...and I would be stuck with another pair of closet queens! However, they are so, sooo beautiful.


It's so far past my budget, that I can only talk about them like I do art work in museums. It's in the budget area of "if you have to ask how much..."

All that said, if serendipity brought them to me, like you, I'd have a hard time wearing them as nothing I do / nowhere I go in my life lives up to or demands the artistry and skills of Yohei Fukuda nor the cost of his creations.


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## akwmek

it looks beautiful


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## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> Egad, at that price and given my past demonstrated inclinations, I suspect if I were to buy a pair, I would be afraid to wear them out in the real world...and I would be stuck with another pair of closet queens! However, they are so, sooo beautiful.


Momentarily disregarding that $2,300 is likely closer to my remaining lifetime footwear budget, I'm not certain that they would suit me. This degree of elegance and precision would require an amount of buffing up on my behalf that might now be beyond my realm.

I frankly never find myself in a suit anymore; rustic and blurred around the edges might better describe the aesthetic that typifies both my persona and existence. Corduroy and tweed sport jackets, and the like. A more formal style of dress was my norm for 40+ years of business, but I rarely miss it, and enjoy what I have now.

However none of this makes such footwear even slightly less beautiful, or desirable for those who dress within that milieu.


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## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> It's so far past my budget, that I can only talk about them like I do art work in museums. It's in the budget area of "if you have to ask how much..."
> 
> All that said, if serendipity brought them to me, like you, I'd have a hard time wearing them as nothing I do / nowhere I go in my life lives up to or demands the artistry and skills of Yohei Fukuda nor the cost of his creations.


Me too!


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## momsdoc

Flanderian said:


> Eiji Murata -


That's not a fiddleback. It's a Stradivarius.

I could never wear them off of carpeting.


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## JBierly

Fading Fast said:


> It's so far past my budget, that I can only talk about them like I do art work in museums. It's in the budget area of "if you have to ask how much..."
> 
> All that said, if serendipity brought them to me, like you, I'd have a hard time wearing them as nothing I do / nowhere I go in my life lives up to or demands the artistry and skills of Yohei Fukuda nor the cost of his creations.


I suspect you could alter your shoe budget to accommodate such a purchase - if you can afford E. Bonafe button boots... I think it is a greater concern of wearing such a beautiful shoe and banging it up. It is painful at first to scuff up such an expensive shoe but it's not as bad as drinking a very expensive bottle of wine where you destroy what you covet. And of course - you can always get them resoled to original form.


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## Fading Fast

JBierly said:


> I suspect you could alter your shoe budget to accommodate such a purchase - if you can afford E. Bonafe button boots... I think it is a greater concern of wearing such a beautiful shoe and banging it up. It is painful at first to scuff up such an expensive shoe but it's not as bad as drinking a very expensive bottle of wine where you destroy what you covet. And of course - you can always get them resoled to original form.


I think you might have me confused with another member as I don't own any button boots, but your points is interesting.

I guess if it was a big enough passion, I could save up and buy a pair, but the second reason (after the concern that my brain would explode when I paid for them) is that I truly have no appropriate use for them in my life.

Shoes like that require a equally appropriate need. For example, I know RogerP has argued cases before Canada's Supreme Court and I'm sure he has other impressive venues to wear those type of shoes - I don't.

I work from home and find the few in-person meetings I do are almost all casual or business casual where, in the last few years, the tone has moved from accepting people in business attire to "we'd rather you come casually dressed as well." Hence, I struggle to find opportunities to wear the nice (but not as nice as the shoes in question) shoes and clothes that I do have.

What's funny is that years ago I worked in a major Private Bank where the dress was very high-end business. I actually upped my wardrobe (a lot) in those years, but now have many really nice clothes hanging unused in my closet. That venue - a Private Bank - would have been perfect for those shoes as I regular saw shoes of nearly that quality in that setting.


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## JBierly

Fading Fast said:


> I think you might have me confused with another member as I don't own any button boots, but your points is interesting.
> 
> I guess if it was a big enough passion, I could save up and buy a pair, but the second reason (after the concern that my brain would explode when I paid for them) is that I truly have no appropriate use for them in my life.
> 
> Shoes like that require a equally appropriate need. For example, I know RogerP has argued cases before Canada's Supreme Court and I'm sure he has other impressive venues to wear those type of shoes - I don't.
> 
> I work from home and find the few in-person meetings I do are almost all casual or business casual where, in the last few years, the tone has moved from accepting people in business attire to "we'd rather you come casually dressed as well." Hence, I struggle to find opportunities to wear the nice (but not as nice as the shoes in question) shoes and clothes that I do have.
> 
> What's funny is that years ago I worked in a major Private Bank where the dress was very high-end business. I actually upped my wardrobe (a lot) in those years, but now have many really nice clothes hanging unused in my closet. That venue - a Private Bank - would have been perfect for those shoes as I regular saw shoes of nearly that quality in that setting.


Sorry - I must have confused you for MomsDoc. Nonetheless, 2300 dollars is not an inordinate amount of money to pay for something like a suit - it's just that most of us aren't used to spending that kind of money for a shoe. And the truth is, shoes can last a lot longer than a suit. Just suggesting one can easily reconsider the algorithm for one's shoe budget.


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## Fading Fast

JBierly said:


> Sorry - I must have confused you for MomsDoc. Nonetheless, 2300 dollars is not an inordinate amount of money to pay for something like a suit - it's just that most of us aren't used to spending that kind of money for a shoe. And the truth is, shoes can last a lot longer than a suit. Just suggesting one can easily reconsider the algorithm for one's shoe budget.


Absolutely fair point and, heck, I can and have justified many clothing purchases by reverse engineering to the solution I wanted. To wit, I just want this item, it costs a stupid amount of money, so I come up with a justification - but I won't need to replace them / they will last longer / I rarely treat myself / quality costs / etc. - until I arrive at the place I wanted to, I buy the item in question.

And no offense taken as I'd swap my demimonde wardrobe for Momsdoc's any day.


----------



## Flanderian

IMO, people should buy what they can afford. To me, it makes no sense to have one or two extravagantly priced wardrobe items while the balance goes begging. Worse yet is for a fellow to place himself in financial jeopardy for their sake. 

At the highest end of the value continuum there are ever diminishing returns. While it makes very sound sense for a man considering a budget threshold of $150 for a pair of shoes to consider stretching it to closer to somewhere between $250 to $300, the practical gains for most attributes beyond that amount diminish rapidly. 

So for those for whom $2,300 isn't a significant consideration, they can without concern enjoy the beauty, elegance and superb quality offered by Yohei Fukuda and other such gifted artisans. But for those simply wishing handsome, well-made footwear of quality materials that needs to be fitted into both a wardrobe and budget, they would seem a foolish choice for most.


----------



## JBierly

Flanderian said:


> IMO, people should buy what they can afford. To me, it makes no sense to have one or two extravagantly priced wardrobe items while the balance goes begging. Worse yet is for a fellow to place himself in financial jeopardy for their sake.
> 
> At the highest end of the value continuum there are ever diminishing returns. While it makes very sound sense for a man considering a budget threshold of $150 for a pair of shoes to consider stretching it to closer to somewhere between $250 to $300, the practical gains for most attributes beyond that amount diminish rapidly.
> 
> So for those for whom $2,300 isn't a significant consideration, they can without concern enjoy the beauty, elegance and superb quality offered by Yohei Fukuda and other such gifted artisans. But for those simply wishing handsome, well-made footwear of quality materials that needs to be fitted into both a wardrobe and budget, they would seem a foolish choice for most.


You are the one who started this thread! And now you are saying they are a foolish choice for most.

I agree that hopefully no one puts themselves in financial jeopardy by purchasing a pair of shoes. And I do think 2300 dollars is a significant amount of money. 4 tires for the truck (and maybe a brake job too). A couple of new iPhones X. Groceries for the month for a family of four. House payment for the month or maybe 2 months depending on where you live, etc.....

But I just laugh when people say they would never spend that much money on a pair of shoes. Why? Because they would rather have 7 pairs of AEs that they can bitch about how crappy the quality is? I agree that a 1700 dollar Samuelsohn MTM and a 600 dollar pair of C and Js is a better use of most peoples money. Unless you already have 20 pairs of shoes and 20 suits. Then maybe its time to consider something created with sedulous craftsmanship.


----------



## Flanderian

JBierly said:


> You are the one who started this thread! And now you are saying they are a foolish choice for most.


Yes, and I also start threads on some 1/4 Million $$$ autos if I think they're uniquely beautiful. And I also think *they* would be a foolish choice for most! There are any number of beautiful or exceptional things in this world, and I don't think I need to have them all! 



JBierly said:


> I agree that hopefully no one puts themselves in financial jeopardy by purchasing a pair of shoes. And I do think 2300 dollars is a significant amount of money. 4 tires for the truck (and maybe a brake job too). A couple of new iPhones X. Groceries for the month for a family of four. House payment for the month or maybe 2 months depending on where you live, etc.....
> 
> But I just laugh when people say they would never spend that much money on a pair of shoes. Why? Because they would rather have 7 pairs of AEs that they can bitch about how crappy the quality is? I agree that a 1700 dollar Samuelsohn MTM and a 600 dollar pair of C and Js is a better use of most peoples money. Unless you already have 20 pairs of shoes and 20 suits. Then maybe its time to consider something created with sedulous craftsmanship.


If I had no end of money, I wouldn't think twice of buying them if I wanted them. They're fully worth it. Just not worth it to me, all things given. Nor do I believe they would be for most.


----------



## JBierly

Flanderian said:


> Yes, and I also start threads on some 1/4 Million $$$ autos if I think they're uniquely beautiful. And I also think *they* would be a foolish choice for most! There are any number of beautiful or exceptional things in this world, and I don't think I need to have them all!
> 
> If I had no end of money, I wouldn't think twice of buying them if I wanted them. They're fully worth it. Just not worth it to me, all things given. Nor do I believe they would be for most.


Choose your hobbies wisely. Cigars are relatively cheap. Wine and Shoes a bit more expensive. Cars start to hurt - a lot. Boats and Planes out of reach. Wives - well - self destructive.


----------



## Flanderian

JBierly said:


> Choose your hobbies wisely. Cigars are relatively cheap. Wine and Shoes a bit more expensive. Cars start to hurt - a lot. Boats and Planes out of reach. Wives - well - self destructive.


Since many of my hobbies are quite venerable by this point in my life, I hope I do. Frankly, should I have a surfeit of lucre I wish to dispose of, my first inclinations would likely be real estate and fine art of modest nature.

Artists whose work I've enjoyed in galleries include the encaustic painting of Charlie Hunter whose muscular art has been termed Railroad Town Noir -

And some of the work by the Mistress of Pastels, Mallory Lake, who sadly left us this past summer -


----------



## Flanderian

And back on topic, Noch Ein Yohei Fukuda!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Since many of my hobbies are quite venerable by this point in my life, I hope I do. Frankly, should I have a surfeit of lucre I wish to dispose of, my first inclinations would likely be real estate and fine art of modest nature.
> 
> Artists whose work I've enjoyed in galleries include the encaustic painting of Charlie Hunter whose muscular art has been termed Railroad Town Noir -
> 
> And some of the work by the Mistress of Pastels, Mallory Lake, who sadly left us this past summer -


Wonderful art


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> And back on topic, Noch Ein Yohei Fukuda!


Wonderful art


----------



## Flanderian

A couple pair of boots.

By TYE Shoemaker, I don't know if I'd call it a high-top chukka, or a cross between a chukka and George boot, but it's nice.










And should you be in need of serious boots, these are by T.Shirakashi Bootmaker.


----------



## Flanderian

Nobuaki Fujisawa -


----------



## StephenRG

I notice that, without exception, the Japanese shoes (not boots) in this thread have flat, not round, laces.


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> I notice that, without exception, the Japanese shoes (not boots) in this thread have flat, not round, laces.


Interesting! I hadn't noted that. What do you make of it?

For me, I find flat laces offer a dressier, more elegant appearance. So I think they suit these elegantly shapely shoes particularly well.


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> Interesting! I hadn't noted that. What do you make of it?
> 
> For me, I find flat laces offer a dressier, more elegant appearance. So I think they suit these elegantly shapely shoes particularly well.


I agree - which got me wondering why they're somewhat less common elsewhere. I was supplied round laces on EG, C&J (Peal), AS (Peal), etc. though I have flat laces on both Carmina and Meermin.


----------



## Flanderian

That's a good question for which I don't have a good answer. I've heard some describe flat laces as a vintage/old-fashioned mode, but I don't find them so.

Fortunately, replacement flat laces aren't hard to come by. I've purchased them here-

https://www.shoelacesexpress.com/

I have no idea if they're the best, cheapest, etc. source, but they're convenient, inexpensive and adequate.


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

StephenRG said:


> I agree - which got me wondering why they're somewhat less common elsewhere. I was supplied round laces on EG, C&J (Peal), AS (Peal), etc. though I have flat laces on both Carmina and Meermin.


I have a few pairs of AE shoes that came with flat laces.


----------



## Flanderian

Jodhpurs from TYE Shoemakers -


----------



## StephenRG

I think that MOMA should put some of these shoes amongst their permanent exhibits.


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> I think that MOMA should put some of these shoes amongst their permanent exhibits.


MOMA? Not beyond the realm of possibility! 

But if they do, they need to offer some credit to the photographers. While the shoes and boots are handsome, how they're photographed can also make a lot of difference. I've seen multiple photos of some of the same shoes, and a clumsy photo can make them look very ordinary.


----------



## Flanderian

Snuff suede galosh oxford, by Yohei Fukuda -


----------



## Flanderian

Hiro Yanagi -


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Oh great, the bottom of his shoes look nicer than the tops of mine .


----------



## RogerP

^^^^


----------



## Howard

Flanderian said:


> Hiro Yanagi -


Those are some very nice shoes.


----------



## Flanderian

Howard said:


> Those are some very nice shoes.


Glad you liked them, Howard!


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei Fukuda -


----------



## Hector Freemantle

Japan really does seem to be a shoe paradise at the moment. 
Shooman over the road at FNB has put together a list of bespoke makers for those who want to delve further.


----------



## Hector Freemantle

List of notable Bespoke Shoemakers in Japan 2013

Tokyo and Kanto Area

Marquess (Kawaguchi Shoji): https://marquess-bespoke.blogspot.jp/ 
Yohei Fukuda: https://yoheifukuda.jp/ 
Benchwork Study (Yukiko Bassett-Okawa): https://www.benchmade.jp/ 
o.e. (Egawa Osamu): https://www.h6.dion.ne.jp/~snug/ 
Hiro Yanagimachi: https://www.hiroyanagimachi.com/ 
Tsukui Reiko (Lecott): https://lecott.blogspot.jp/ 
Misawa & Workshop (Misawa Noriyuki): https://www.misawa-and-workshop.com/ 
Clematis (Takano Keitaro): https://www.clematis-ginza.com/ 
Arai Hiroshi: https://h-arai.com
Guild of Crafts (Yamaguchi Chihiro): https://www.footwear.co.jp/ 
Tetsujiya (Ueda Tetsuji): https://tetsujiya.com/ 
Ogasawara Shoes / συναντω: https://sinando.jp/ 
Otsuka Shoes: https://www.otsuka-shoe.com/
Ginza Yoshinoya: https://www.ginza-yoshinoya.co.jp/
Saion (Yokoyama Naoto): 
Emori Custom Shoemaker (Emori Daizo): https://web.mac.com/shoemaker_emori/emori/Top.html
Inamori Kutsuten (Tohohiro Inamori): https://inakutsu.com/ 
Le Scarpe Di Cabiria (Wada Yoshiaki): 
Rikhugi (Okubo Takauji): https://bespoker.exblog.jp/ 
Shoe Republic (Takayama Junichi): https://shoe-republic.com/ 
Furuhata Masahito: https://m-furuhata.com/ 
T. Shirakashi (Shirakashi Tetsuya): https://www.shirakashi.jp/index.html 
Takayuki Maruyama Handmade Shoes: 
Cool Strutting (Yokoo Tadashi): https://www.coolstrutting.com
Anonymous (Akasaka Hidenori): https://www.anonymous-shoe.com
REGAL TOKYO: https://www.regal.co.jp/regaltokyo/ 
Bottega Tramoda (Okayasu Keisuke): https://bottegatramoda.web.fc2.com/
TYE Shoemaker (Ohno Tsuyoshi): https://www.tyeshoemaker.com/ 
Main D'or (Murata Eiji):
Ameno Spazio (Nakagaki Tomohiro): https://www.amenospazio.com
gentille (Endo Koji): 
Atelier Matsumoto: https://gguild.s300.xrea.com/matsumotoshoes/

Nagoya and Central Japan

Bolero Bespoke Shoe & Bootmaker (Watanabe Tomoyuki): https://www.boleroshoe.jimdo.com
Shoes Bonanza: https://shoesbonanza.com/ 
Yamazaki Kutsuten: https://www.yamazaki1927.jp
Nagomigutsu (Ota Katsuhisa): 
KOKON:

Osaka, Kyoto, Kobe

Spigola (Suzuki Koji): https://www.spigola.jp
Sforzo. Opera (Yoshida Tsutomu): https://www.sforzo-opera.com/ 
Ryuta Gutsu: https://ryuta-gutsu.com/ 
Atelier Grandpa (Yada Atsuki): https://www.ateliergrandpa.com
Shoe Scape (Hagihara Hiroyuki): https://shoe-scape.jugem.jp/ 
Shoe & Sewn: https://shoe-and-sewn.jp/ 
Il Quadrifoglio (Qnai Atsushi): https://ilquadrifoglio.tumblr.com
Il Vagabundo (Suga Motoji): https://miescarpe.exblog.jp/ 
Bonta (Hasegawa Ippei): https://bonta-bonta.com/ 
Atsuta Kutsuten (Atsuta Koji):

KYUSHU

Corno Blu (Seikaku Yutaka): 
Yuki Shirahama Bottier: https://ys-bottier.com/ 
Nihil Bespoke Shoe: https://nihil-bs.com
Matsuda Akinobu
Yamamura Seikaten (Yamamura Koji): https://www.yamamuraseikaten.com/

HOKKAIDO

Cagra: https://www.k5.dion.ne.jp/~cagra/

OVERSEAS
Il Micio (Fukaya Hidetaka): @ Florence
Hayafuji Ryota: @ Munich
Masaru Okuyama: @ Hong Kong https://www.masaruokuyama.com
Emiko Matsuda: @ Foster & Sons
Kuroki Satoshi: @ John Lobb Paris

Dress Shoe Manufactures (Ready Made)

Regal Shoes: https://www.regalshoes.co.jp
Otsuka Shoes: https://www.otsuka-shoe.com
Ginza Yoshinoya: https://www.ginza-yoshinoya.co.jp
Miyagi Kogyo: https://www.miyagikogyo.co.jp
Scotch Grain: https://www.scotchgrain.co.jp
Union Imperial: https://www.union-royal.jp
Madras: https://www.madras.co.jp
Sanyo Yamacho: https://www.sanyoyamacho.com
forme: https://www.formeofficial.com
Yoshiharu Hasegawa
Central Shoes
Perfetto: https://www.vinaseiko.com
Artistocrat: https://www.daiwa-kk.jp
Chausser: https://www.chausser.net
Foot the Coacher: https://www.galleryofauthentic.jp
Authentic Shoes & Co.: https://www.galleryofauthentic.jp
H? Katsukawa from Tokyo: https://www.hkatsukawafromtokyo.net
Hiroshi Tsubouchi: https://www.id-limited.com
Pegman: https://www.lacota.co.jp/pegman
Hall & Marks (RTW): https://www.footwear.co.jp/ 
Corno Blu (RTW): 
Spigola (RTW): https://www.spigola.jp

https://www.facebook.com/cabirianokutu

Other makers (a bunch of links on the one site)
https://sinando.sblo.jp/category/881734-1.html

https://sinando.jp/custom.html#agallery

Just noticed that Shooey did this research a few years ago. But perhaps still worthwhile drawing it to shoe addicts' attention.


----------



## Flanderian

Hector Freemantle said:


> List of notable Bespoke Shoemakers in Japan 2013
> 
> Tokyo and Kanto Area
> 
> Marquess (Kawaguchi Shoji): https://marquess-bespoke.blogspot.jp/
> Yohei Fukuda: https://yoheifukuda.jp/
> Benchwork Study (Yukiko Bassett-Okawa): https://www.benchmade.jp/
> o.e. (Egawa Osamu): https://www.h6.dion.ne.jp/~snug/
> Hiro Yanagimachi: https://www.hiroyanagimachi.com/
> Tsukui Reiko (Lecott): https://lecott.blogspot.jp/
> Misawa & Workshop (Misawa Noriyuki): https://www.misawa-and-workshop.com/
> Clematis (Takano Keitaro): https://www.clematis-ginza.com/
> Arai Hiroshi: https://h-arai.com
> Guild of Crafts (Yamaguchi Chihiro): https://www.footwear.co.jp/
> Tetsujiya (Ueda Tetsuji): https://tetsujiya.com/
> Ogasawara Shoes / συναντω: https://sinando.jp/
> Otsuka Shoes: https://www.otsuka-shoe.com/
> Ginza Yoshinoya: https://www.ginza-yoshinoya.co.jp/
> Saion (Yokoyama Naoto):
> Emori Custom Shoemaker (Emori Daizo): https://web.mac.com/shoemaker_emori/emori/Top.html
> Inamori Kutsuten (Tohohiro Inamori): https://inakutsu.com/
> Le Scarpe Di Cabiria (Wada Yoshiaki):
> Rikhugi (Okubo Takauji): https://bespoker.exblog.jp/
> Shoe Republic (Takayama Junichi): https://shoe-republic.com/
> Furuhata Masahito: https://m-furuhata.com/
> T. Shirakashi (Shirakashi Tetsuya): https://www.shirakashi.jp/index.html
> Takayuki Maruyama Handmade Shoes:
> Cool Strutting (Yokoo Tadashi): https://www.coolstrutting.com
> Anonymous (Akasaka Hidenori): https://www.anonymous-shoe.com
> REGAL TOKYO: https://www.regal.co.jp/regaltokyo/
> Bottega Tramoda (Okayasu Keisuke): https://bottegatramoda.web.fc2.com/
> TYE Shoemaker (Ohno Tsuyoshi): https://www.tyeshoemaker.com/
> Main D'or (Murata Eiji):
> Ameno Spazio (Nakagaki Tomohiro): https://www.amenospazio.com
> gentille (Endo Koji):
> Atelier Matsumoto: https://gguild.s300.xrea.com/matsumotoshoes/
> 
> Nagoya and Central Japan
> 
> Bolero Bespoke Shoe & Bootmaker (Watanabe Tomoyuki): https://www.boleroshoe.jimdo.com
> Shoes Bonanza: https://shoesbonanza.com/
> Yamazaki Kutsuten: https://www.yamazaki1927.jp
> Nagomigutsu (Ota Katsuhisa):
> KOKON:
> 
> Osaka, Kyoto, Kobe
> 
> Spigola (Suzuki Koji): https://www.spigola.jp
> Sforzo. Opera (Yoshida Tsutomu): https://www.sforzo-opera.com/
> Ryuta Gutsu: https://ryuta-gutsu.com/
> Atelier Grandpa (Yada Atsuki): https://www.ateliergrandpa.com
> Shoe Scape (Hagihara Hiroyuki): https://shoe-scape.jugem.jp/
> Shoe & Sewn: https://shoe-and-sewn.jp/
> Il Quadrifoglio (Qnai Atsushi): https://ilquadrifoglio.tumblr.com
> Il Vagabundo (Suga Motoji): https://miescarpe.exblog.jp/
> Bonta (Hasegawa Ippei): https://bonta-bonta.com/
> Atsuta Kutsuten (Atsuta Koji):
> 
> KYUSHU
> 
> Corno Blu (Seikaku Yutaka):
> Yuki Shirahama Bottier: https://ys-bottier.com/
> Nihil Bespoke Shoe: https://nihil-bs.com
> Matsuda Akinobu
> Yamamura Seikaten (Yamamura Koji): https://www.yamamuraseikaten.com/
> 
> HOKKAIDO
> 
> Cagra: https://www.k5.dion.ne.jp/~cagra/
> 
> OVERSEAS
> Il Micio (Fukaya Hidetaka): @ Florence
> Hayafuji Ryota: @ Munich
> Masaru Okuyama: @ Hong Kong https://www.masaruokuyama.com
> Emiko Matsuda: @ Foster & Sons
> Kuroki Satoshi: @ John Lobb Paris
> 
> Dress Shoe Manufactures (Ready Made)
> 
> Regal Shoes: https://www.regalshoes.co.jp
> Otsuka Shoes: https://www.otsuka-shoe.com
> Ginza Yoshinoya: https://www.ginza-yoshinoya.co.jp
> Miyagi Kogyo: https://www.miyagikogyo.co.jp
> Scotch Grain: https://www.scotchgrain.co.jp
> Union Imperial: https://www.union-royal.jp
> Madras: https://www.madras.co.jp
> Sanyo Yamacho: https://www.sanyoyamacho.com
> forme: https://www.formeofficial.com
> Yoshiharu Hasegawa
> Central Shoes
> Perfetto: https://www.vinaseiko.com
> Artistocrat: https://www.daiwa-kk.jp
> Chausser: https://www.chausser.net
> Foot the Coacher: https://www.galleryofauthentic.jp
> Authentic Shoes & Co.: https://www.galleryofauthentic.jp
> H? Katsukawa from Tokyo: https://www.hkatsukawafromtokyo.net
> Hiroshi Tsubouchi: https://www.id-limited.com
> Pegman: https://www.lacota.co.jp/pegman
> Hall & Marks (RTW): https://www.footwear.co.jp/
> Corno Blu (RTW):
> Spigola (RTW): https://www.spigola.jp
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/cabirianokutu
> 
> Other makers (a bunch of links on the one site)
> https://sinando.sblo.jp/category/881734-1.html
> 
> https://sinando.jp/custom.html#agallery
> 
> Just noticed that Shooey did this research a few years ago. But perhaps still worthwhile drawing it to shoe addicts' attention.


Thank you! It's very kind of you to take the time to post it. I shall make a copy for myself. :beer:


----------



## Fading Fast

Am I alone in being surprised that the market is big enough to support that many bespoke "notable shoe makers in Japan?"

I'm really, really glad it can, just surprised the market is that big.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Am I alone in being surprised that the market is big enough to support that many bespoke "notable shoe makers in Japan?"
> 
> I'm really, really glad it can, just surprised the market is that big.


It may be that the list includes some entities that aren't doing business any longer, or at least not in a significant way. I mean no disrespect to the OP, or the original compiler, but it's been my experience that such extensive lists almost always must contain a few such.

But of greater significance, is the nature of these entities from the limited investigation I've done. While I generally dislike the term, describing them as "artisanal' might most simply characterize their nature. Many are one-man, or two or three people making shoes.

To revert to stereotype for a bit, the Japanese have a long tradition of the artisan as the supreme example of transcendent craftsmanship, and of being venerated within their society for accomplishing it. And they've long prized superb footwear made elsewhere.

My recollection is that Yohei Fukuda apprenticed within the British shoe industry learning the craft before returning to Japan where he turned the knowledge and skill gained into a unique expression of craftsmanship and beauty very much in keeping with the better aspects of Japanese aesthetic tradition.

And given these factors, it's not as surprising to me that a greater number of Japanese men are willing to take the time and effort needed to learn the skill, and then bring their own aesthetic tradition to evolving and perfecting it.

Simply, Japan appears to respect tradition, aesthetic virtue and craftsmanship more than some other societies.


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Flanderian said:


> Simply, Japan appears to respect tradition, aesthetic virtue and craftsmanship more than some other societies.


They also seem to value single minded focus and devotion to ones craft. It is therefore not surprising to find a good number of superb craftsman in any field in Japan. Any craft they decide they're going to take up, they excel at. It's really quite impressive.


----------



## Flanderian

The male equivalent of the little black dress; the simple black cap toe. By Yohei Fukuda -


----------



## momsdoc

With a swan neck as sleek as Audrey Hepburn’s.


----------



## JBierly

Flanderian said:


> The male equivalent of the little black dress; the simple black cap toe. By Yohei Fukuda -


If this doesn't convince you that black is beautiful I don't what will. I have complained that I don't like a cap toe with black tie but if I had this shoe I would make an exception.


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei Fukuda -


----------



## barca10

Flanderian said:


> Yohei Fukuda -


I love the color of these.


----------



## Flanderian

Yutaka Seigaku (Cornu Blu) -


----------



## Flanderian

Corno Blu -










Yohei Fukuda. One of the things notable about Master Fukuda's shoes is that while the workmanship and aesthetic value is always exceptional, his style for a pair of bespoke is truly a one-off. I believe he mentioned in an interview that he tries to create something unique for each bespoke customer. The pair below is different in both last shape and details from others of his I've seen in employing a more robust aesthetic, equally precise but less delicate, very much in keeping with the grained hide from which they're made.


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei Fukuda -


----------



## Flanderian

Masaru Okuyama -


----------



## momsdoc

Flanderian said:


> Masaru Okuyama -


WOW


----------



## barca10

Flanderian said:


> Yohei Fukuda -


I need to stop looking at this thread. My shoes are getting an inferiority complex.


----------



## Fading Fast

barca10 said:


> I need to stop looking at this thread. My shoes are getting an inferiority complex.


Just your shoes? Christ, my entire life is getting an inferiority complex from this thread.


----------



## StephenRG

Fading Fast said:


> Just your shoes? Christ, my entire life is getting an inferiority complex from this thread.


Do you go to an art museum and curse that you can't afford to buy the Holbein or the Ingres?


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Do you go to an art museum and curse that you can't afford to buy the Holbein or the Ingres?


+1.

Exactly!


----------



## Fading Fast

StephenRG said:


> Do you go to an art museum and curse that you can't afford to buy the Holbein or the Ingres?


I have wanted to abscond with a Hopper or two from the Whitney but the security there looks pretty thought out and effective.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I have wanted to abscond with a Hopper or two from the Whitney but the security there looks pretty thought out and effective.


----------



## Flanderian

A little less radical, but beautifully executed. Study the punching. Blucher brogue from TYE Shoemakers.


----------



## JBierly

StephenRG said:


> Do you go to an art museum and curse that you can't afford to buy the Holbein or the Ingres?


I don't think its the cost of the shoes - more like the time and fare to get to Japan a few times. By the time you are done a 3 to 5k pair of shoes is 20k.


----------



## Flanderian

JBierly said:


> I don't think its the cost of the shoes - more like the time and fare to get to Japan a few times. By the time you are done a 3 to 5k pair of shoes is 20k.


Ah, but then how lucky you are! 

For slightly less that $2,400, you can have your friendly neighborhood UPS man/woman hand you a box containing your very own pair of Yohei Fakuda galosh oxfords! True, RTW rather than bespoke, but still exceptionally lovely.

After all, what's $2,400? 

https://www.thesabot.com/products/teal


----------



## Flanderian

Ann Bespoke Shoemakers -










Seiichi Yoshimoto -


----------



## Flanderian

TYE Shoemakers -


----------



## Flanderian

Masaru Okuyama -


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Masaru Okuyama -


So a bag of cash falls on my head, I pick it up and inside there is a note that says I can only use this money to purchase Masaru Okuyama shoes, but it must be done in person.

Hmm, odd I think, but what the heck, I'd love a pair. So I hop a plane to Japan (with the ticket bought from the money in the bag - a nice cotton one with a simple but attractive pull to keep it secured - that was, I discovered, stuffed with hundreds which made me quickly forget that my head hurt a bit from when it fell on me). Once there, I immediately find the Masaru Okuyama shop.

There is an elegance and gentlemanliness that you feel the moment you walk inside. The staff is quietly engaging and well skilled in the balance of allowing you to look on your own but providing assistance when needed.

And the shoes are heart-stoppingly prepossessing - each a little gem of old-world craftsmanship and beauty. Yes, I've thought about keeping the money and ignoring the note, but I know that isn't going to happen the moment I see the shoes.

While I'm looking at the shoes (jaw dropped), I notice a quiet, well-dressed Japanese man step out from the back (he unobtrusively notices me), says a few words to, whom I assume is, the store manager and disappears into the back again.

After making my selection, I approach the manager to inquire how to make a purchase. He says - in perfect, exacting, English - that there's been a small mistake and that Mr. Okuyama says I am not worthy of a Masaru Okuyama shoe, so unfortunately, he'll have to take the money back (which happens so efficiently and effortlessly on his part, that I hardly noticed when he takes the bag from me). He also hands me a small envelope that, I discover, has a bill for my airplane ticket inside.

After being quietly but securely and rapidly escorted out of the store and finding myself on the streets of Japan, thousands of miles from home, out the price of a plane ticket and sans the shoes in question, I realize that I had reached too high and received my just comeuppance.

Why should a stupid kid from New Jersey with a State University degree ever come to believe that he deserved a pair of Masaru Okuyama shoes. I could never carry them off; I'd just pull the shoes down to my level. The shoes and Mr. Okuyama deserve more.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> So a bag of cash falls on my head, I pick it up and inside there is a note that says I can only use this money to purchase Masaru Okuyama shoes, but it must be done in person.
> 
> Hmm, odd I think, but what the heck, I'd love a pair. So I hop a plane to Japan (with the ticket bought from the money in the bag - a nice cotton one with a simple but attractive pull to keep it secured - that was, I discovered, stuffed with hundreds which made me quickly forget that my head hurt a bit from when it fell on me). Once there, I immediately find the Masaru Okuyama shop.
> 
> There is an elegance and gentlemanliness that you feel the moment you walk inside. The staff is quietly engaging and well skilled in the balance of allowing you to look on your own but providing assistance when needed.
> 
> And the shoes are heart-stoppingly prepossessing - each a little gem of old-world craftsmanship and beauty. Yes, I've thought about keeping the money and ignoring the note, but I know that isn't going to happen the moment I see the shoes.
> 
> While I'm looking at the shoes (jaw dropped), I notice a quiet, well-dressed Japanese man step out from the back (he unobtrusively notices me), says a few words to, whom I assume is, the store manager and disappears into the back again.
> 
> After making my selection, I approach the manager to inquire how to make a purchase. He says - in perfect, exacting, English - that there's been a small mistake and that Mr. Okuyama says I am not worthy of a Masaru Okuyama shoe, so unfortunately, he'll have to take the money back (which happens so efficiently and effortlessly on his part, that I hardly noticed when he takes the bag from me). He also hands me a small envelope that, I discover, has a bill for my airplane ticket inside.
> 
> After being quietly but securely and rapidly escorted out of the store and finding myself on the streets of Japan, thousands of miles from home, out the price of a plane ticket and sans the shoes in question, I realize that I had reached too high and received my just comeuppance.
> 
> Why should a stupid kid from New Jersey with a State University degree ever come to believe that he deserved a pair of Masaru Okuyama shoes. I could never carry them off; I'd just pull the shoes down to my level. The shoes and Mr. Okuyama deserve more.


*Wow!








*


----------



## StephenRG

Fading Fast said:


> Mr. Okuyama says I am not worthy of a Masaru Okuyama shoe.


Slightly off-topic but continuing the theme, yesterday in the highly recommendable book "Everything is Bullsh!t", I read about how Daniel Radcliffe (from "Harry Potter") wanted to buy a work of art by someone called Jim Hodges. The dealer refused to sell him the work because he was "waiting for a more prestigious collector". (Radcliffe was able to buy the work only after the artist had personally intervened.)


----------



## Fading Fast

StephenRG said:


> Slightly off-topic but continuing the theme, yesterday in the highly recommendable book "Everything is Bullsh!t", I read about how Daniel Radcliffe (from "Harry Potter") wanted to buy a work of art by someone called Jim Hodges. The dealer refused to sell him the work because he was "waiting for a more prestigious collector". (Radcliffe was able to buy the work only after the artist had personally intervened.)


Did not know that, but laughed at the parallel. That said, unfortunately, in my case, it was the artist himself who deemed me not worthy.


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei Fukuda -


----------



## Flanderian

Suede like 'ya mean it! irate:

For the new year by Yohei Fukuda -


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> Yohei Fukuda -


I need these badly.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Suede like 'ya mean it! irate:
> 
> For the new year by Yohei Fukuda -


This is now just getting ridiculous. Those are un-freakin'-believable.


----------



## momsdoc

Flanderian said:


> Suede like 'ya mean it! irate:
> 
> For the new year by Yohei Fukuda -


Now that's a museum piece, too beautiful to wear.


----------



## Dhaller

StephenRG said:


> Slightly off-topic but continuing the theme, yesterday in the highly recommendable book "Everything is Bullsh!t", I read about how Daniel Radcliffe (from "Harry Potter") wanted to buy a work of art by someone called Jim Hodges. The dealer refused to sell him the work because he was "waiting for a more prestigious collector". (Radcliffe was able to buy the work only after the artist had personally intervened.)


It's not uncommon to be refused a sale in Japan because "you are not the right person".

I was in a shop near Gifu, shopping for tea bowls, and I caught sight of one across the room which arrested me at once. ¥1.5 million ($15,000 at the time), confirming my suspicion that it was something special. The shop owner congratulated me on my eye (the bowl had been made by one of Japan's "national living treasures", a very famous potter), and apologized that he could not possibly sell it to me, since I was not Japanese, and therefore could never truly appreciate it.

Still, we chatted about tea bowls, and he wound up inviting me to his house, where he showed me his amazing private collection of Muromachi period antiques, served me lunch, had his wife prepare very correct macha for me (served in a beautiful, ancient bowl), taught me how to select the place settings for a kaiseke meal ("the eras must match")... one of my best "Japan experiences". He still wouldn't sell me the bowl.

I have to try out this shoe shop, though, next time I'm in Tokyo!

DH


----------



## Fading Fast

Dhaller said:


> It's not uncommon to be refused a sale in Japan because "you are not the right person".
> 
> I was in a shop near Gifu, shopping for tea bowls, and I caught sight of one across the room which arrested me at once. ¥1.5 million ($15,000 at the time), confirming my suspicion that it was something special. The shop owner congratulated me on my eye (the bowl had been made by one of Japan's "national living treasures", a very famous potter), and apologized that he could not possibly sell it to me, since I was not Japanese, and therefore could never truly appreciate it.
> 
> Still, we chatted about tea bowls, and he wound up inviting me to his house, where he showed me his amazing private collection of Muromachi period antiques, served me lunch, had his wife prepare very correct macha for me (served in a beautiful, ancient bowl), taught me how to select the place settings for a kaiseke meal ("the eras must match")... one of my best "Japan experiences". He still wouldn't sell me the bowl.
> 
> I have to try out this shoe shop, though, next time I'm in Tokyo!
> 
> DH


Holy Cow, that's a great true story and I just made up my silly story, but it was closer to the truth than I knew: https://askandyaboutclothes.com/com...ing-made-in-japan.237880/page-13#post-1854215


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> I need these badly.


I'm sure Master Fukuda would be pleased to assist you with your own bespoke creation given enough time and a very happy wallet! 



Fading Fast said:


> This is now just getting ridiculous. Those are un-freakin'-believable.





momsdoc said:


> Now that's a museum piece, too beautiful to wear.


I'm glad you enjoyed it!



Dhaller said:


> It's not uncommon to be refused a sale in Japan because "you are not the right person".
> 
> I was in a shop near Gifu, shopping for tea bowls, and I caught sight of one across the room which arrested me at once. ¥1.5 million ($15,000 at the time), confirming my suspicion that it was something special. The shop owner congratulated me on my eye (the bowl had been made by one of Japan's "national living treasures", a very famous potter), and apologized that he could not possibly sell it to me, since I was not Japanese, and therefore could never truly appreciate it.
> 
> Still, we chatted about tea bowls, and he wound up inviting me to his house, where he showed me his amazing private collection of Muromachi period antiques, served me lunch, had his wife prepare very correct macha for me (served in a beautiful, ancient bowl), taught me how to select the place settings for a kaiseke meal ("the eras must match")... one of my best "Japan experiences". He still wouldn't sell me the bowl.
> 
> I have to try out this shoe shop, though, next time I'm in Tokyo!
> 
> DH


That's a charming anecdote, thank you! I've learned several interesting things of which I was unaware. While not specifically a Nipponophile, I've long enjoyed what I know of the Japanese aesthetic tradition.

Should you visit Master Fukuda, I would anticipate a delay typical of bespoke, and his prices have been described as in keeping with its quality and the demand for his work.

Recently, he has offered RTW via select retailers. And while not made at his small shop, I've read credible information that he personally researched and selected the actual makers, and the designs are exclusively his. They certainly pass the eyeball test in all regards. I've found a Swedish retailer of them at the link below. If I've worked the currency conversion properly, they're around $2,400, which while a lot, is no doubt substantially less than his bespoke work.

https://www.thesabot.com/collections/yohei-fukuda


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Flanderian said:


> I'm sure Master Fukuda would be pleased to assist you with your own bespoke creation given enough time and a very happy wallet!
> 
> I'm glad you enjoyed it!
> 
> That's a charming anecdote, thank you! I've learned several interesting things of which I was unaware. While not specifically a Nipponophile, I've long enjoyed what I know of the Japanese aesthetic tradition.
> 
> Should you visit Master Fukuda, I would anticipate a delay typical of bespoke, and his prices have been described as in keeping with its quality and the demand for his work.
> 
> Recently, he has offered RTW via select retailers. And while not made at his small shop, I've read credible information that he personally researched and selected the actual makers, and the designs are exclusively his. They certainly pass the eyeball test in all regards. I've found a Swedish retailer of them at the link below. If I've worked the currency conversion properly, they're around $2,400, which while a lot, is no doubt substantially less than his bespoke work.
> 
> https://www.thesabot.com/collections/yohei-fukuda


At that price for a single pair, might as well just spend the extra to get full bespoke.

This is similar to my thoughts on things like Brioni suits.


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Fading Fast said:


> Holy Cow, that's a great true story and I just made up my silly story, but it was closer to the truth than I knew: https://askandyaboutclothes.com/com...ing-made-in-japan.237880/page-13#post-1854215


I once had a fun little daydream that I had won the Powerball and cost was no longer a concern for anything. In my dream, I planned a sartorial tour starting in Japan to commission a few pairs of Fukadas, continuing on to Saville Row commission fall, winter, and spring clothing, and then heading to Milan to commission summer clothing.

Not needing to work anymore, I wasn't sure what I was going to do with my splendid new wardrobe, but I didn't much care...


----------



## momsdoc

Hebrew Barrister said:


> I once had a fun little daydream that I had won the Powerball and cost was no longer a concern for anything. In my dream, I planned a sartorial tour starting in Japan to commission a few pairs of Fukadas, continuing on to Saville Row commission fall, winter, and spring clothing, and then heading to Milan to commission summer clothing.
> 
> Not needing to work anymore, I wasn't sure what I was going to do with my splendid new wardrobe, but I didn't much care...


You would need the clothing for all the charitable balls, political fundraising events, and at the board meetings of all the corporate and philanthropic organizations you would be invited to join. With a big enough Powerball win, many hands will be attempting to reach into your pockets.

While there may be a term "idle rich", most truly wealthy individuals understand that with great wealth comes great responsibilities. Ever heard of a truly retired Octogenarian billionaire? Too many peoples lives and well being depends on them to not stay involved in how their money is put to use, and too many are ready to abscond with what they can if one turns a blind eye.


----------



## Flanderian

Hebrew Barrister said:


> At that price for a single pair, might as well just spend the extra to get full bespoke.
> 
> This is similar to my thoughts on things like Brioni suits.


It's entirely comparative; while I may be misremembering, the number I have stuck in my head for his bespoke is closer to $6K.



momsdoc said:


> You would need the clothing for all the charitable balls, political fundraising events, and at the board meetings of all the corporate and philanthropic organizations you would be invited to join. With a big enough Powerball win, many hands will be attempting to reach into your pockets.
> 
> While there may be a term "idle rich", most truly wealthy individuals understand that with great wealth comes great responsibilities. Ever heard of a truly retired Octogenarian billionaire? Too many peoples lives and well being depends on them to not stay involved in how their money is put to use, and too many are ready to abscond with what they can if one turns a blind eye.


Very, very true!


----------



## mfreeman73

Dhaller said:


> It's not uncommon to be refused a sale in Japan because "you are not the right person".
> 
> I was in a shop near Gifu, shopping for tea bowls, and I caught sight of one across the room which arrested me at once. ¥1.5 million ($15,000 at the time), confirming my suspicion that it was something special. The shop owner congratulated me on my eye (the bowl had been made by one of Japan's "national living treasures", a very famous potter), and apologized that he could not possibly sell it to me, since I was not Japanese, and therefore could never truly appreciate it.
> 
> Still, we chatted about tea bowls, and he wound up inviting me to his house, where he showed me his amazing private collection of Muromachi period antiques, served me lunch, had his wife prepare very correct macha for me (served in a beautiful, ancient bowl), taught me how to select the place settings for a kaiseke meal ("the eras must match")... one of my best "Japan experiences". He still wouldn't sell me the bowl.
> 
> I have to try out this shoe shop, though, next time I'm in Tokyo!
> 
> DH


I couldn't imagine something like that happening in the U.S. It seems if you go into any store, as long as you have money, they're going to sell it to you. The only way I can see something like this happening is if you were selling something personal to you and wanted to make sure it went to a good home.


----------



## Flanderian

mfreeman73 said:


> I couldn't imagine something like that happening in the U.S. It seems if you go into any store, as long as you have money, they're going to sell it to you. The only way I can see something like this happening is if you were selling something personal to you and wanted to make sure it went to a good home.


*No shirt for you!!!*

*







*


----------



## Fading Fast

momsdoc said:


> You would need the clothing for all the charitable balls, political fundraising events, and at the board meetings of all the corporate and philanthropic organizations you would be invited to join. With a big enough Powerball win, many hands will be attempting to reach into your pockets.
> 
> While there may be a term "idle rich", most truly wealthy individuals understand that with great wealth comes great responsibilities. Ever heard of a truly retired Octogenarian billionaire? Too many peoples lives and well being depends on them to not stay involved in how their money is put to use, and too many are ready to abscond with what they can if one turns a blind eye.


Having worked in Private Banking for many years, I can concur that as a client, at minimum, you will be taken to many fine restaurants and events - and invited to many high-end speeches and meeting with financial professionals - that require a very nice wardrobe.

The "who dresses nicest" hierarchy on Wall Street goes something like this: retail financial advisors < traders < investment bankers <<< private bankers. It was about twenty years into my career when I was hired to start up a trading department at a Private Bank. I remember being stunned at how incredibly well-dressed Private Bankers (for the most part) are. They are one of the groups that buys all these insanely priced clothes - the top OTR and custom - we chat about here.


----------



## Fading Fast

mfreeman73 said:


> I couldn't imagine something like that happening in the U.S. It seems if you go into any store, as long as you have money, they're going to sell it to you. The only way I can see something like this happening is if you were selling something personal to you and wanted to make sure it went to a good home.


I had a similar thought and would add, this being America, it would set off lawsuits and a social / political issue if it was spun by the media in a certain way.


----------



## Flanderian

Akira Tani -


----------



## Flanderian

Eiji Murata -


----------



## StephenRG

Yup - the flat laces are definitely more elegant.


----------



## eagle2250

^^
For sure, the flat laces offer an arguably more elegant visual, but the metal rimmed eyelets incorporated in a shoe's lacing column quickly forfeit any aesthetic gains to be noted. Yhe reddish toned shoe on the left, to my eye, is magnificent. The black and tan shoes, sporting those metal rimmed eyelets in concert with that hard, glossy finish, project a bit of a 'steam punk' aesthetic!


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> For sure, the flat laces offer an arguably more elegant visual, but the metal rimmed eyelets incorporated in a shoe's lacing column quickly forfeit any aesthetic gains to be noted. Yhe reddish toned shoe on the left, to my eye, is magnificent. The black and tan shoes, sporting those metal rimmed eyelets in concert with that hard, glossy finish, project a bit of a 'steam punk' aesthetic!


Tend to agree. While handsome shoes, the metal eyelets give a decidedly retro look.


----------



## WDG

Flanderian said:


> Tend to agree. While handsome shoes, the metal eyelets give a decidedly retro look.


This is my only real complaint about the AE Dalton. I'm just not a fan of exposed metal eyelets on anything other than an extremely casual shoe or boot.

RE the laces: All my laces are round, but I may reconsider and try out narrow flat laces on my dress shoes, based upon what I'm seeing here.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Tend to agree. While handsome shoes, the metal eyelets give a decidedly retro look.


On the black one, I'm also not a fan of the red "ticking" around the inside of the vamp and shoe opening.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> On the black one, I'm also not a fan of the red "ticking" around the inside of the vamp and shoe opening.


Agreed!


----------



## Flanderian

Basic black, but a seamless heel. Ann Bespoke Shoemakers -










Edit: Now wait a minute, are those black or deep, deep espresso!? :icon_scratch:


----------



## eagle2250

^^LOL, that's an easy one! 
The shoe for the left foot is "deep, deep espresso," while the shoe for the right foot is clearly basic black! A new trend setter, perhaps? :icon_scratch:


----------



## JBierly

Flanderian said:


> Basic black, but a seamless heel. Ann Bespoke Shoemakers -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Now wait a minute, are those black or deep, deep espresso!? :icon_scratch:


I think they are a dark roast.


----------



## JBierly

eagle2250 said:


> ^^LOL, that's an easy one!
> The shoe for the left foot is "deep, deep espresso," while the shoe for the right foot is clearly basic black! A new trend setter, perhaps? :icon_scratch:


One thing for sure, don't buy one pair in expresso and the other in black and then throw them in the closet together! I once had a professor who dressed in the classic trad fashion and wore a dark brown beef roll penny loafer on one foot and a black on the other to work one day. In his defense I am sure the closet was dark and until you have cataract surgery you have no idea how you slowly lose your ability to detect color differences in dim lighting.


----------



## WDG

I once tossed sevaral pair of brown dress socks because I had the darnedest time telling them from the blacks, at O’dark-thirty in the morning. IIRC, I might have worn them mismatched on an occasion or two.

When I got my current ones, they have color stripes on the toes to make it plain which is which, so others have clearly experienced this.


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

eagle2250 said:


> ^^LOL, that's an easy one!
> The shoe for the left foot is "deep, deep espresso," while the shoe for the right foot is clearly basic black! A new trend setter, perhaps? :icon_scratch:


That was my exact thought. I wondered if I was seeing things. Apparently not.


----------



## eagle2250

JBierly said:


> One thing for sure, don't buy one pair in expresso and the other in black and then throw them in the closet together! I once had a professor who dressed in the classic trad fashion and wore a dark brown beef roll penny loafer on one foot and a black on the other to work one day. In his defense I am sure the closet was dark and until you have cataract surgery you have no idea how you slowly lose your ability to detect color differences in dim lighting.


Many years back I had a very similar experience to that of your professor..two similarly, but differently hued shoes of the same design and I went to work with one of each on my feet! I confirmed a fair number of doubts held by others about my intellect that day(LOL). It was not long after that that I designed and completed a custom build out of my closet, organizing my shoe collection on nicely roomy shoe shelves that took up almost half of my closet space! I haven't yet repeated the humiliation of wearing two colors of the same shoe...knock on wood.:fool:


----------



## Flanderian

JOE Works Shoemaker -


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ every single one of those is beautiful.


----------



## eagle2250

^^Indeed, they are all stunning, but it is that grained NST pair that have stolen my heart!


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> ^^Indeed, they are all stunning, but it is that grained NST pair that have stolen my heart!


+1! Yeah, rings all my bells too.


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei Fukuda -










JOE Works Shoemaker -


----------



## eagle2250

Looking at that first pair of leather art beauties, I literally felt a cold chill run down my spine and felt a lump in my throat. :crazy:


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> Looking at that first pair of leather art beauties, I literally felt a cold chill run down my spine and felt a lump in my throat. :crazy:


Justin FitzPatrick, footwear connoisseur, and a maker himself had the grace to say, "There's Yohei Fukuda, and then there's everybody else."


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Flanderian said:


> Justin FitzPatrick, footwear connoisseur, and a maker himself had the grace to say, "There's Yohei Fukuda, and then there's everybody else."


Crazy thing is that Fukada is so young. He's like 35. Is he even at his peak yet? Probably not.

I usually do not like chisel toe shoes, yet somehow, I always like his chisel toe designs. There's just something he gets about the proportions that others miss.


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

eagle2250 said:


> ^^Indeed, they are all stunning, but it is that grained NST pair that have stolen my heart!


Mine as well. Wow I love those.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Yohei Fukuda -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JOE Works Shoemaker -


How many people live in Japan, is there anyone there not making the world's most gorgeous shoes?


----------



## Flanderian

JOE Works Bespoke Shoes -


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ all impressive, but that third pair is super wow. 

Also, see post #166 in this thread, does anyone in the entire country do anything other than make incredible shoes.


----------



## StephenRG

I foresee a steady flow of first-born children heading to Japan in exchange for shoes


----------



## Flanderian

TYE Shoemaker -


----------



## Flanderian

Ryo Hosokawa -


----------



## Flanderian

Hiro Yanagimachi -

"I believe that shoemaking, more than being the work of "making an object" that is visible to the eye, is really the work of "instilling the thoughts and feelings" from ourselves and our customers into an object. "


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ all impressive, but that third pair is super wow.
> 
> Also, see post #166 in this thread, does anyone in the entire country do anything other than make incredible shoes.


Japanese culture is very conducive to producing singularly focused and dedicated craftsmen. I would wager that for just about any handcrafted good, japan is a world leader.

Watching documentaries on Japanese craftsmen is fascinating. The long term dedication these guys have is incredible. Doing things like spending 15 years as an unpaid apprentice, working around the clock, sleeping on the floor, to learn to be one of the best sword polishers. Just amazing.

Although I think Fukada also happens to have heaps of natural talent.


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> Ryo Hosokawa -


This, for the antiquing of the leather alone.


----------



## Flanderian

What an elegant and graceful last! Yohei Fukuda -


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Despite being far less flashy than others shown, I am in love with those. I would love to find something similar, in grained leather.



Flanderian said:


> What an elegant and graceful last! Yohei Fukuda -


----------



## Flanderian

Hebrew Barrister said:


> Despite being far less flashy than others shown, I am in love with those. I would love to find something similar, in grained leather.


While certainly not Yohei Fukuda, a somewhat similar shoe you might consider is Cheaney's Chiswick. I know Eagle has a pair and thinks highly of them. And while they lack the sublime lines and workmanship of Fukuda's, they also lack a four figure price, and all told they're a handsome, well made pair of Northampton derbies, which isn't a bad thing at all.

They're made on Cheaney's 125 last. I have a pair of chukkas on that last in the same hide, and while they look very handsome in the photos, they're actually more elegant in the flesh. The vamp is elongated in the fashionable way, but only slightly, and the toe is tapered. And they have a very narrow waist. All of which in combination lends an elegance.

Despite their sleeker appearance, the chukkas at least, are among the most comfortable footwear I've enjoyed.

In the two photos below the first is in a darker brown grain, so they must make them. But the second in mahogany hide is what Herrings sells. My chukkas are in that shade, and I like it very well, but if your interest is specifically in the darker brown, I suspect some could be found.


----------



## momsdoc

Flandarian,

You’re comparing a Lexus LS, and it’s knockoff, the Hyundai Equus.

Both fine, well made, similarly styled luxury vehicles. You can drive the more affordable Hyundai, enjoy most of the same features, but it ain’t never the same.

No knock on Cheany, but the elegance of the YF is so far advanced, that to even call it a shoe is an insult.


----------



## Dhaller

Hebrew Barrister said:


> Japanese culture is very conducive to producing singularly focused and dedicated craftsmen. I would wager that for just about any handcrafted good, japan is a world leader.
> 
> Watching documentaries on Japanese craftsmen is fascinating. The long term dedication these guys have is incredible. Doing things like spending 15 years as an unpaid apprentice, working around the clock, sleeping on the floor, to learn to be one of the best sword polishers. Just amazing.


I've spent a fair amount of time in Japan over the years (I've kept a house there since 1993), and it still surprises me, the feats of sheer patience involved in Japanese crafts. I think of a kiln I visit occasionally in Gifu prefecture, family run (as they all are); the grandfather, father and son all work together. They've been doing it 600 years.

There's a spa I visit occasionally, run by the same family since the 8th century. The 8th century! (I still call it A.D., anno Domini). It just beggars the Western imagination, the giant spans of time; it's time itself which is the filter through which these Japanese crafts (I don't call them arts - they're crafts) have been refined.

I think of a lacquerware (shiki) shop in Gion, in Kyoto - itself centuries old, of course - which sells a bowl which takes *30 years* to make. Thirty years to make a single bowl, one perfect, microscopically-thin film of lacquer after another, week after week, year after year, possibly even passing from master to apprentice before completion. These bowls have a depth and richness that makes them seem almost alive. Nothing in the shop is priced... "if you have to ask..."

I have to say, for the kind of meticulous fellow who inhabits this forum, a visit to the Land of the Rising Sun is a *must*, shoes regardless.

(Speaking of which, my wife is on a train to Tokyo this very moment, heading to an investor pitch. Maybe I should have her peek into the shoe shops? It's set to snow today, a rarity in Tokyo.)

DH (sadly recovering from the flu in Atlanta)


----------



## Flanderian

Dhaller said:


> I've spent a fair amount of time in Japan over the years (I've kept a house there since 1993), and it still surprises me, the feats of sheer patience involved in Japanese crafts. I think of a kiln I visit occasionally in Gifu prefecture, family run (as they all are); the grandfather, father and son all work together. They've been doing it 600 years.
> 
> There's a spa I visit occasionally, run by the same family since the 8th century. The 8th century! (I still call it A.D., anno Domini). It just beggars the Western imagination, the giant spans of time; it's time itself which is the filter through which these Japanese crafts (I don't call them arts - they're crafts) have been refined.
> 
> I think of a lacquerware (shiki) shop in Gion, in Kyoto - itself centuries old, of course - which sells a bowl which takes *30 years* to make. Thirty years to make a single bowl, one perfect, microscopically-thin film of lacquer after another, week after week, year after year, possibly even passing from master to apprentice before completion. These bowls have a depth and richness that makes them seem almost alive. Nothing in the shop is priced... "if you have to ask..."
> 
> I have to say, for the kind of meticulous fellow who inhabits this forum, a visit to the Land of the Rising Sun is a *must*, shoes regardless.
> 
> (Speaking of which, my wife is on a train to Tokyo this very moment, heading to an investor pitch. Maybe I should have her peek into the shoe shops? It's set to snow today, a rarity in Tokyo.)
> 
> DH (sadly recovering from the flu in Atlanta)


That's a very rich and insightful description of some aspects of their culture. Thank you, I enjoyed that.

May your flu soon have flown! 

While certainly not foolproof, I began getting vaccinated about 6 or 7 years ago, and wish I had sooner.


----------



## Flanderian

Eiji Murata -


----------



## TheDlABlO

After reading this thread and the one at SF thread it's got me thinking. If free trade agreements facilitate jap/EU exchanges, I could see one of these makers pulling a Carmina [which about 10 years ago seemed pretty unknown to me]

Do any reasonably affordable RTW JPN goodyear makers sell to the USA though!


----------



## Flanderian

TheDlABlO said:


> After reading this thread and the one at SF thread it's got me thinking. If free trade agreements facilitate jap/EU exchanges, I could see one of these makers pulling a Carmina [which about 10 years ago seemed pretty unknown to me]
> 
> Do any reasonably affordable RTW JPN goodyear makers sell to the USA though!


That's a good question, and I'm afraid I don't know the answer to it. But it's important to understand that the shoes you're seeing here are pretty much entirely hand-made bespoke, each made as a one-off by a Japanese master bespoke cordwainer. I suspect that if there are any "affordable" Japanese RTW shoes being sold, they're very different in character.

The one possible exception is RTW line started by Yohei Fukuda. He designed them, but they're made elsewhere in Japan by a workshop(s) that he's personally selected. But at roughly $2,400, many might not consider them affordable.

Edit: Here are a couple of links for retailers that sell Japan made shoes: the first sells the line of Yohei Fukuda shoes I referenced, the second, Corno Blu, which is also made in Japan.

https://www.thesabot.com/collections/yohei-fukuda


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> That's a very rich and insightful description of some aspects of their culture. Thank you, I enjoyed that.
> 
> May your flu soon have flown!
> 
> While certainly not foolproof, I began getting vaccinated about 6 or 7 years ago, and wish I had sooner.


I too strongly believe in the wisdom of annual flu vaccinations and endure them every Fall. However, just returned from a mission trip with a group of 26 friends from our church, I must sadly admit that for the travel time to get there and the first day of the work effort, I spent the majority of my time in the cot, suffering with and recovering from the flu! Alas, it seems the vaccinations are not fool proof, but they certainly do seem to reduce the severity of the flu experience.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> I too strongly believe in the wisdom of annual flu vaccinations and endure them every Fall. However, just returned from a mission trip with a group of 26 friends from our church, I must sadly admit that for the travel time to get there and the first day of the work effort, I spent the majority of my time in the cot, suffering with and recovering from the flu! Alas, it seems the vaccinations are not fool proof, but they certainly do seem to reduce the severity of the flu experience.


Glad you're up an around again. Evidently the H3N2 is a particularly nasty little bugger -

https://www.vox.com/2018/1/12/16882622/flu-season-epidemic-prevention-vaccine


----------



## eagle2250

^^Thank you, my friend, for the kind thoughts. Indeed, it appears the ability of the H3N2 virus to evolve is easily outpacing the ability of the 'Medical Arts' to counter the threat.


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei Fukuda -


----------



## Flanderian

A duo by Yohei Fukuda -



















And just for friend Shaver a monkstrap [] by Hiro Yanagimachi!


----------



## JBierly

Flanderian said:


> A duo by Yohei Fukuda -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just for friend Shaver a monkstrap [] by Hiro Yanagimachi!


I don't recall an austerity brogue with a monk. Really quite elegant.


----------



## Flanderian

A brogue boot by Yohei Fukuda. The renown of Master Fukuda's atelier is rapidly transcending artisanship and being pulled in the direction of industry. Will he be able to resist the corruption of commerce? Happy ending:yes! Typical ending: gets bought out by Blowhard Industries and manufacture is transferred to the Amazon were indigenous people are chained to their workbenchs and forced to work for water and palm fronds.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> A brogue boot by Yohei Fukuda. The renown of Master Fukuda's atelier is rapidly transcending artisanship and being pulled in the direction of industry. Will he be able to resist the corruption of commerce? Happy ending:yes! Typical ending: gets bought out by Blowhard Industries and manufacture is transferred to the Amazon were indigenous people are chained to their workbenchs and forced to work for water and palm fronds.


Forget not being worthy to wear them in this life, if I died and came back a much-improved person, I still doubt I'd be worthy. Holy cow those are impressive.


----------



## Flanderian

Seiji McCarthy -


----------



## Flanderian

Chukka from TYE Shoemakers -


----------



## Flanderian

TYE Shoemaker -


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Flanderian said:


> Chukka from TYE Shoemakers -


I love those. I'm not sure why. I think it's the simple, plain, execution of a classic design.

That isn't even a pair you buy to "impress" others, as it is such a simple, plain design that very few would recognize that it is something special. (You have to admit, most of the Fukadas are definitely show-off shoes). No, this pair is something you'd buy for yourself, because you enjoy knowing your basic chukkas are of the highest quality.


----------



## Flanderian

Hebrew Barrister said:


> I love those. I'm not sure why. I think it's the simple, plain, execution of a classic design.
> 
> That isn't even a pair you buy to "impress" others, as it is such a simple, plain design that very few would recognize that it is something special. (You have to admit, most of the Fukadas are definitely show-off shoes). No, this pair is something you'd buy for yourself, because you enjoy knowing your basic chukkas are of the highest quality.


Agree on all counts!


----------



## StephenRG

More Fukuda (I don't think this particular shoe has been posted before as it just popped up on my FB feed):


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> More Fukuda (I don't think this particular shoe has been posted before as it just popped up on my FB feed):


*Nice!*


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei Fukuda also, in what looks to be museum calf -


----------



## Fading Fast

Hebrew Barrister said:


> I love those. I'm not sure why. I think it's the simple, plain, execution of a classic design.
> 
> That isn't even a pair you buy to "impress" others, as it is such a simple, plain design that very few would recognize that it is something special. (You have to admit, most of the Fukadas are definitely show-off shoes). No, this pair is something you'd buy for yourself, because you enjoy knowing your basic chukkas are of the highest quality.


I'd like to agree and I do understand where you are coming from, but (and only from the picture, obviously, as some cosmic force of sartorial justice wouldn't even let the woebegone likes of me near those boots) I think the quality of material, design and build of those boots - despite their seeming simplicity - would make them stand out even to the untrained eye.


----------



## paxonus

All beautiful shoes. Since I don't possess the tailoring they require to accompany them, I will have to just admire them.


----------



## Fading Fast

paxonus said:


> All beautiful shoes. Since I don't possess the tailoring they require to accompany them, I will have to just admire them.


Great point. And I'm in the same boat.


----------



## RogerP

This thread is such an ongoing treat.


----------



## Fading Fast

RogerP said:


> This thread is such an ongoing treat.


You are so right. Also, you have the tailoring and style for them - are you thinking of making a purchase / trip to Japan?


----------



## Flanderian

paxonus said:


> All beautiful shoes. Since I don't possess the tailoring they require to accompany them, I will have to just admire them.


You've just gotta have Seoul! 

Given appropriate encouragement ($$$) they'll fix you right up!


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei Fukuda gives 'em the boot!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> You've just gotta have Seoul!
> 
> Given appropriate encouragement ($$$) they'll fix you right up!


Please tell me that is a model and not the designer. If he is one and the same, my small request is that, going forward, God saves something for the rest of us.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Please tell me that is a model and not the designer. If he is one and the same, my small request is that, going forward, God saves something for the rest of us.


Neither model nor designer, that is Jung Yul Park, head cutter.

https://blueloafers.com/tailoring-2/btailor-bespoke-tailors-korean-flair/


----------



## JBierly

Reminder to self - stop reading Flanderian's posts about Japanese shoes...


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

RogerP said:


> This thread is such an ongoing treat.


I'd be happy with a Fukada only thread. My god, that man is talented. Crazy he's so young too - he's like 35.


----------



## Flanderian

Hebrew Barrister said:


> I'd be happy with a Fukada only thread. My god, that man is talented. Crazy he's so young too - he's like 35.


No love for TYE?


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Flanderian said:


> No love for TYE?


I have to wonder what the foot that can fit in that looks like.


----------



## Fading Fast

Hebrew Barrister said:


> I have to wonder what the foot that can fit in that looks like.


I had a similar thought. Beautiful shoe and gorgeously sculptured, but doesn't look like it would fit a human foot (or a man's foot anyway as women's feet seem to share characteristics with shape shifters).


----------



## Flanderian

Hebrew Barrister said:


> I have to wonder what the foot that can fit in that looks like.





Fading Fast said:


> I had a similar thought. Beautiful shoe and gorgeously sculptured, but doesn't look like it would fit a human foot (or a man's foot anyway as women's feet seem to share characteristics with shape shifters).


Except for a bit of extra length in the toe box due to the extended last, I think you'd be surprised to find it actually covers the shape of a foot rather perfectly. The art is in making it look otherwise.


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Flanderian said:


> Except for a bit of extra length in the toe box due to the extended last, I think you'd be surprised to find it actually covers the shape of a foot rather perfectly. The art is in making it look otherwise.


My foot isn't skinner in the middle than the toes and heel. It's a pretty steady width up until close to the toe area where it expands out.

I saw an interview with Fukada himself talking about Caucasian feet in general being shaped very differently than Asian feet, and how even mass market shoes would need to use different lasts for the different markets.

Just a guess, that shoe in the pic was made for an Asian gentleman.


----------



## Flanderian

Hebrew Barrister said:


> My foot isn't skinner in the middle than the toes and heel. It's a pretty steady width up until close to the toe area where it expands out.
> 
> I saw an interview with Fukada himself talking about Caucasian feet in general being shaped very differently than Asian feet, and how even mass market shoes would need to use different lasts for the different markets.
> 
> Just a guess, that shoe in the pic was made for an Asian gentleman.


While it's certain that the shape of individuals' feet differ, and also that there are characteristics that typify specific racial groups I think what we're observing here, in addition to the art of the shoemaker, is the masterful nature of the photo. Though any foot viewed from above will not be have a wasp waist, if we walk on pavement with wet feet we will leave a print where the actual contact area under the instep behind the forefoot and ahead of the heel will be very slender. (Baring fallen arches.) And the perspective of the photo is on the narrowest point from above and to the side of instep where the instep curves inward to that slender structure.


----------



## Shaver

Flanderian said:


> While it's certain that the shape of individuals' feet differ, and also that there are characteristics that typify specific racial groups....


There's no such thing as race. Or gender. Or talent. Or intelligence. Everyone is equal. It's just that minorities must be given a head start.

I don't understand it myself but, apparently, if you don't go along with it then you are worse than Hitler.


----------



## Flanderian

Shaver said:


> There's no such thing as race. Or gender. Or talent. Or intelligence. Everyone is equal. It's just that minorities must be given a head start.
> 
> I don't understand it myself but, apparently, if you don't go along with it then you are worse than Hitler.


We're all God's children. And we're all different. And we're all the same.


----------



## Shaver

Flanderian said:


> We're all God's children. And we're all different. And we're all the same.


When it's all the same then you can ask for it by name.

Gotta love diversity that demands homogeneity.


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Shaver said:


> There's no such thing as race. Or gender. Or talent. Or intelligence. Everyone is equal. It's just that minorities must be given a head start.


The idea behind that is misguided. It's that minorities tend to come from worse socioeconomic backgrounds, which present them with challenges that others don't face.

So if the issue really is that folk who grew up poor didn't have the opportunities of those who grew up affluent, why not do affirmative action based on socioeconomic status, instead of ethnicity or skin color?

Affirmative action is founded on a decent idea, implemented horribly. The worst is how it's used AGAINST Asian students in the US. An Asian woman needs substantially higher test scores than a Hispanic man to get into med school, even if they came from the same socioeconomic background. Why? The answer is rhat, without this, med school would be mostly asian women. My response is, for something critical like healthcare, if they happen to make the best doctors, so be it. We don't make it more difficult for black men to get into professional sports simply because they happen to be better at it.

.. and this is way too political of a discussion for a shoe thread.


----------



## Shaver

Hebrew Barrister said:


> The idea behind that is misguided. It's that minorities tend to come from worse socioeconomic backgrounds, which present them with challenges that others don't face.
> 
> So if the issue really is that folk who grew up poor didn't have the opportunities of those who grew up affluent, why not do affirmative action based on socioeconomic status, instead of ethnicity or skin color?
> 
> Affirmative action is founded on a decent idea, implemented horribly. The worst is how it's used AGAINST Asian students in the US. An Asian woman needs substantially higher test scores than a Hispanic man to get into med school, even if they came from the same socioeconomic background. Why? The answer is rhat, without this, med school would be mostly asian women. My response is, for something critical like healthcare, if they happen to make the best doctors, so be it. We don't make it more difficult for black men to get into professional sports simply because they happen to be better at it.
> 
> .. and this is way too political of a discussion for a shoe thread.


In England it is the majority that originates from a deprived background - white working class males - who the liberals ignore in their clamour to support schizophrenic paraplegic transgender Muslim lesbians.

However, your points are reasonable and I would be willing to chew this particular fat if someone were to open a thread in the Interchange.


----------



## Fading Fast

Hebrew Barrister said:


> The idea behind that is misguided. It's that minorities tend to come from worse socioeconomic backgrounds, which present them with challenges that others don't face.
> 
> So if the issue really is that folk who grew up poor didn't have the opportunities of those who grew up affluent, why not do affirmative action based on socioeconomic status, instead of ethnicity or skin color?
> 
> Affirmative action is founded on a decent idea, implemented horribly. The worst is how it's used AGAINST Asian students in the US. An Asian woman needs substantially higher test scores than a Hispanic man to get into med school, even if they came from the same socioeconomic background. Why? The answer is rhat, without this, med school would be mostly asian women. My response is, for something critical like healthcare, if they happen to make the best doctors, so be it. We don't make it more difficult for black men to get into professional sports simply because they happen to be better at it.
> 
> .. and this is way too political of a discussion for a shoe thread.


Agreed, but either take this phrase of yours out "for something critical like healthcare" or rework sentence to read "My response is if they happen to make the best anything, so be it."


----------



## Flanderian

Shaver said:


> When it's all the same then you can ask for it by name.
> 
> Gotta love diversity that demands homogeneity.





Hebrew Barrister said:


> The idea behind that is misguided. It's that minorities tend to come from worse socioeconomic backgrounds, which present them with challenges that others don't face.
> 
> So if the issue really is that folk who grew up poor didn't have the opportunities of those who grew up affluent, why not do affirmative action based on socioeconomic status, instead of ethnicity or skin color?
> 
> Affirmative action is founded on a decent idea, implemented horribly. The worst is how it's used AGAINST Asian students in the US. An Asian woman needs substantially higher test scores than a Hispanic man to get into med school, even if they came from the same socioeconomic background. Why? The answer is rhat, without this, med school would be mostly asian women. My response is, for something critical like healthcare, if they happen to make the best doctors, so be it. We don't make it more difficult for black men to get into professional sports simply because they happen to be better at it.
> 
> .. and this is way too political of a discussion for a shoe thread.


Always pleased to have the insights of esteemed members whose erudition, intellect and gifts of expression I admire, but can we all agree that irrespective of our feet, race or national origin, we're all free to go broke chasing exquisite footwear? 

Yohei Fukuda -










Masaru Okuyama -










TYE Shoemakers -


----------



## Shaver

We are on page 23. 

23 skidoo!

Thread drift.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Always pleased to have the insights of esteemed members whose erudition, intellect and gifts of expression I admire, but can we all agree that irrespective of our feet, race or national origin, we're all free to go broke chasing exquisite footwear?
> 
> Yohei Fukuda -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Masaru Okuyama -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TYE Shoemakers -


All three show beauty, but not a fan of the narrow point of the monk strap one. Also, don't like the wrap around lace idea on the boot. Still insanely gorgeous workmanship on all three.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> All three show beauty, but not a fan of the narrow point of the monk strap one. Also, don't like the wrap around lace idea on the boot. Still insanely gorgeous workmanship on all three.


I agree on both counts. Don't understand the wrap around laces at all? :icon_scratch: (Must be added to that very long list of things I don't understand!)


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> I agree on both counts. Don't understand the wrap around laces at all? :icon_scratch: (Must be added to that very long list of things I don't understand!)


We can compare lists, but I'll warn you, mine is longer than a CVS receipt .

And the fact that the lace is twisted once is really odd - were they trying for a "casualness?" Doesn't make sense as everything else says upscale, thoughtful, detail-oriented design and layout - not casualness.


----------



## Flanderian

Were I to be transported to an alternate reality in which I was both young and wealthy, my personal choice of might well be Seijy McCarthy. A classicist at heart, I find his somewhat more conservative approach resonates perhaps most closely. Not just his personal heritage, but also his aesthetic I find to be a successful union of Asia and Northampton.


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Flanderian said:


> Always pleased to have the insights of esteemed members whose erudition, intellect and gifts of expression I admire, but can we all agree that irrespective of our feet, race or national origin, we're all free to go broke chasing exquisite footwear?
> 
> Yohei Fukuda -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Masaru Okuyama -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TYE Shoemakers -


Wow at all three of those.


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Fading Fast said:


> Agreed, but either take this phrase of yours out "for something critical like healthcare" or rework sentence to read "My response is if they happen to make the best anything, so be it."


In some things, there actually is a value to diversity. For example, policework. A black cop will have a much easier time collecting information and forming good relationships in a low income black neighborhood than a white cop of equal ability would, for example. So, I can absolutely understand a PD that serves a low income black beigneirhood hiring a black cop with lower test scores over a white cop with higher test scores.

I guess I should amend my statement along these lines. Racial preference is fine where it actually matters, and not fine where it doesn't.


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Shaver said:


> In England it is the majority that originates from a deprived background - white working class males - who the liberals ignore in their clamour to support schizophrenic paraplegic transgender Muslim lesbians.
> 
> However, your points are reasonable and I would be willing to chew this particular fat if someone were to open a thread in the Interchange.


I am not familiar with UK politics, but if that's actually what they do (and isn't an overblown talking point of an opposition party), then that's absolutely asinine.

I'm the crazy person who wants governance based on logic, facts, analytically performed studies. Not feelings such as sympathy or anger. I know I'll never get it. Lol.


----------



## Shaver

Hebrew Barrister said:


> I am not familiar with UK politics, but if that's actually what they do (and isn't an overblown talking point of an opposition party), then that's absolutely asinine.
> 
> I'm the crazy person who wants governance based on logic, facts, analytically performed studies. Not feelings such as sympathy or anger. I know I'll never get it. Lol.


I have always adhered to meritocracy. The only system that is truly viable. In the long term humouring the feeble and inadequate degrades their quality of life.


----------



## Shaver

Hebrew Barrister said:


> In some things, there actually is a value to diversity. For example, policework. A black cop will have a much easier time collecting information and forming good relationships in a low income black neighborhood than a white cop of equal ability would, for example. So, I can absolutely understand a PD that serves a low income black beigneirhood hiring a black cop with lower test scores over a white cop with higher test scores.
> 
> I guess I should amend my statement along these lines. Racial preference is fine where it actually matters, and not fine where it doesn't.


Edit: self censorship.

Although perfectly sublime, eloquent and divinely spare as my original response was, still, i acknowledge that it advanced the political flavour which must be avoided here.

I will supply my toothsome rejoinder to any member via PM upon request.


----------



## Flanderian

TYE Shoemakers -


----------



## Flanderian

Ryota Hayafuji -










Yohei Fukuda -


----------



## Langham

Flanderian, I speak for myself, but I feel sure the sentiment will be more widely shared, in thanking you for drawing my attention to Japanese shoemaking - something that unaccountably (for it is clearly rich in craftsmanship) hitherto had escaped my attention. 
Japan is quite populous, but even so the Japanese must have a prodigious interest in shoes - I know it is a remarkably important export market for the Northampton firms, but clearly they will have to look to their laurels. 
Many of the Japanese shoes appear to me to be inspired by the designs of some English makers, executed with great care and skill.


----------



## Flanderian

Langham said:


> Flanderian, I speak for myself, but I feel sure the sentiment will be more widely shared, in thanking you for drawing my attention to Japanese shoemaking - something that unaccountably (for it is clearly rich in craftsmanship) hitherto had escaped my attention.
> Japan is quite populous, but even so the Japanese must have a prodigious interest in shoes - I know it is a remarkably important export market for the Northampton firms, but clearly they will have to look to their laurels.
> Many of the Japanese shoes appear to me to be inspired by the designs of some English makers, executed with great care and skill.


They are indeed inspired by the English shoe making tradition with a number of Japanese artisan shoemakers having studied or apprenticed there. And some have remained there such as Emiko Matsuda at Foster and Son. -

https://www.keikari.com/english/interview-with-emiko-matsuda-from-fosterson/

And the appearance of either the bespoke from Foster and Son -










Or Cleverley -










are not very dissimilar at all.


----------



## Langham

Flanderian said:


> ...some have remained there such as Emiko Matsuda at Foster and Son. -
> 
> https://www.keikari.com/english/interview-with-emiko-matsuda-from-fosterson/


An interesting article. Possibly only a Japanese wife would have given the following answer, which is admirably serious and high-minded:

_VR: Who or what inspires you?
EM: My master, his attitude towards the way he deals with things, and discipline. Also my husband, his devotion to his work is purely exceptional. His knowledge and inspiration always help me get going._

I know Lobb's also employ a lady shoe-maker, but in Northampton my impression was that women were strictly confined to the room where the uppers are sewn together, and sometimes in the polishing and boxing areas. Certainly not allowed near any sharp knives.


----------



## Flanderian

Langham said:


> I know Lobb's also employ a lady shoe-maker, but in Northampton my impression was that women were strictly confined to the room where the uppers are sewn together, and sometimes in the polishing and boxing areas. Certainly not allowed near any sharp knives.


I've watched video of the making by a variety of firms but failed to notice this. But remembering, I believe you're correct, I recall a rather strict division of labor by sex with men doing the clicking, lasting, closing and finishing.


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> I recall a rather strict division of labor by sex with men doing the clicking, lasting, closing and finishing.


I am admiring my own self-restraint here


----------



## Flanderian

Adelaides!

Corno Blu -










Yohei Fukuda -


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ The first nice pair of shoes I ever bought was in 1986 - a pair of Florsheim Royal Imperial tassel loafers (I was still learning - not a smart first-good-pair of shoes, but live and learn). On their first day out (no exaggeration at all), I put a deep divot about an inch long into the front side of the right shoe coming up the stairs from the subway. 

Probably about as close to crying as I've come. The shoe repair guy did an admirable job of masking it, but I could always see it. If I did the same to those ⇧, in the long honored Japanese tradition of Seppuku, I'd have to commit ritual suicide to restore honor, if not to my dubious name, then to the House of Corno Blu.


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Langham said:


> An interesting article. Possibly only a Japanese wife would have given the following answer, which is admirably serious and high-minded:
> 
> _VR: Who or what inspires you?
> EM: My master, his attitude towards the way he deals with things, and discipline. Also my husband, his devotion to his work is purely exceptional. His knowledge and inspiration always help me get going.[_/QUOTE]
> 
> The japanese are so fascinating. They go all out in devotion to a trade in a way that other cultures just don't.
> 
> I'd love to take a trip there, but fear I'd come back with a resplendent new shoe wardrobe, and a very painful credit card bill.


----------



## SG_67

An interesting email from Leffot:



I might actually pop in and see what’s doing.


----------



## Flanderian

SG_67 said:


> An interesting email from Leffot:
> 
> I might actually pop in and see what's doing.


Very nice shoes!

Some more in keeping with the English tradition, which certainly isn't a bad thing!

Justin Fitzpatrick commends them here -

https://www.theshoesnobblog.com/2015/09/hiro-yanagimachi-nyc-trunk-show.html





































Lovely work -


----------



## JBierly

I am definitely doing bespoke with Fukuda if I go back to Japan which is looking like a real possibility. You only live once...


----------



## Flanderian

JBierly said:


> I am definitely doing bespoke with Fukuda if I go back to Japan which is looking like a real possibility. You only live once...


And for little more than the price of a good used car, he will fix you right up! 



















Edit: OK, I looked it up, and it's not as bad as I suspected. (I realize this sounds like an attempt at irony, but I really *did* expect it to be much worse!) As of 2016, full bespoke started at around $4,300. And evidently, in addition to his recently introduced RTW line, his shop offers a variety of degrees of customization with differing price levels.


----------



## JBierly

Flanderian said:


> And for little more than the price of a good used car, he will fix you right up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: OK, I looked it up, and it's not as bad as I suspected. (I realize this sounds like an attempt at irony, but I really *did* expect it to be much worse!) As of 2016, full bespoke started at around $4,300. And evidently, in addition to his recently introduced RTW line, his shop offers a variety of degrees of customization with differing price levels.


As I said in a previous post - its the time and effort to get there that makes it a pretty much a non starter for me. It is a lot for a pair of shoes but in the big picture not so much compared to other clothing purchases. Bespoke suits from Savile row are typically more for example (at least the tailor I have used).


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> And for little more than the price of a good used car, he will fix you right up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: OK, I looked it up, and it's not as bad as I suspected. (I realize this sounds like an attempt at irony, but I really *did* expect it to be much worse!) As of 2016, full bespoke started at around $4,300. And evidently, in addition to his recently introduced RTW line, his shop offers a variety of degrees of customization with differing price levels.


"A good used car?" Way back in the 1971 I bought a brand new Dodge Challenger R/T for which I paid less than those shoes are priced. Any ideas what that Challenger is worth today? I find myself wondering to what amount those fine LTD's (leather transportation devices) will appreciate to, 47 years from now? LOL. :icon_scratch:


----------



## JBierly

eagle2250 said:


> "A good used car?" Way back in the 1971 I bought a brand new Dodge Challenger R/T for which I paid less than those shoes are priced. Any ideas what that Challenger is worth today? I find myself wondering to what amount those fine LTD's (leather transportation devices) will appreciate to, 47 years from now? LOL. :icon_scratch:


I don't think one should look at it that way. Neither shoes nor cars are typically good investments. Granted a 71 Challenger is a one off. I am sure if one could find a pair of Lobb bespoke shoes that Fred Astaire wore a few times in mint condition and original box they would be worth a small fortune. I am not buying shoes or cars with the hope they appreciate in value. And nowadays a Dodge Challenger SRT demon is closer to a 100,000 dollars. The shoes are way cheaper!


----------



## Flanderian

On the hoof! Hiro Yanagimachi (Top) vs. Yohei Fukuda (Bottom)


----------



## eagle2250

^^My friend, I look at those shoes, I indulge a bit of "day dreaming about night things in the middle of the afternoon," and then "I cry a little bit," realizing what shall never be!


----------



## Flanderian

Corno Blu. Simple, classic black cap toe oxford. Give those puppies a light shine, and you're good to go!


----------



## Flanderian

T.Shirakashi Bootmaker -










Yohei. Mighty, mighty Yohei! -


----------



## eagle2250

Tempting us with those incredibly handsome Sharakashi Boots is not fair...it's just not fair! :icon_headagainstwall:


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> T.Shirakashi Bootmaker -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yohei. Mighty, mighty Yohei! -


UFB, even the shoe (or, I guess, boot) tree looks gorgeous.


----------



## Flanderian

Aki Nishiyama (Ann Bespoke) -










Yohei -


----------



## Flanderian

Eiji Murata -










Aki Nishiyama (Ann Bespoke Shoes) -


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Aki Nishiyama (Ann Bespoke Shoes)


Super wow.


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Eiji Murata -


Assuming these are mirror shined calf and not patent leather, I will echo Fading Fast's observation and just say "Wow!"


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> Assuming these are mirror shined calf and not patent leather, I will echo Fading Fast's observation and just say "Wow!"


I believe they are. Just a new plain black calf cap toe which received a thorough working over with Saphir. But they'd certainly serve admirably doing double duty as an evening shoe.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> I believe they are. Just a new plain black calf cap toe which received an thorough working over with Saphir. But they'd certainly serve admirably doing double duty as an evening shoe.


Also as an offering to the gods when rain is needed to save the harvest.


----------



## Flanderian

Not my cup of tea, but beautifully made, and a somewhat different take on the Chelsea boot.

Yohei Fukuda -


----------



## eagle2250

^^
A stunningly handsome pair of Chelsea's, for sure. Now tell me they can be had for a paltry $595 and make me a happy camper! LOL.


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> A stunningly handsome pair of Chelsea's, for sure. Now tell me they can be had for a paltry $595 and make me a happy camper! LOL.


Just add a zero to the end and you can have your own pair.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> A stunningly handsome pair of Chelsea's, for sure. Now tell me they can be had for a paltry $595 and make me a happy camper! LOL.


X5 or 6, sure! :icon_cheers:

Edit: And then buy a pair of his chukkas!


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei Fukuda -


----------



## Flanderian

Hiro Yanagimachi -


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Flanderian said:


> X5 or 6, sure! :icon_cheers:
> 
> Edit: And then buy a pair of his chukkas!


I'm not sure the words even exist. Wow.


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei Fukuda -










And a horse of a different color -


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei Fukuda - a more elegant "airport shoe." -


----------



## Flanderian

Seiichi Yoshimoto (AKA, Perticone) -


----------



## Flanderian

Aki Nishiyama for Ann Bespoke Shoes -


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei (Do you even need the last name!? )


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Flanderian said:


> Aki Nishiyama for Ann Bespoke Shoes -


Oh my. I love those. I want to pair those with medium grey slacks, a white OCBD, and a navy sport coat. Would look sharp.


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Flanderian said:


> Yohei (Do you even need the last name!? )


I think I can tell which are his just by looking a the pics. From the excellent photography (which I read somewhere the master does homself, which if true, means he's also a master shoe photographer) to the crisp lines to the absolute painstaking perfection, his always stand out.


----------



## MNJ83

Just FYI he has an IG page lots and lots of great photos. Follow him:

https://www.instagram.com/yoheifukudashoemaker


----------



## Flanderian

Hebrew Barrister said:


> I think I can tell which are his just by looking a the pics. From the excellent photography (which I read somewhere the master does homself, which if true, means he's also a master shoe photographer) to the crisp lines to the absolute painstaking perfection, his always stand out.


You can!


----------



## Flanderian

TYE Shoemaker -


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> TYE Shoemaker -


Wow, just beautiful. Any idea why the shoe tree has that rope on it as it seems uncomfortably tucked into the shoe in the way that might (probably not, but might) cause a slight bump to the leather?


----------



## EclecticSr.

Flanderian said:


> TYE Shoemaker -


Museum worthy art. One cannot but admire the devotion to such passion.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Any idea why the shoe tree has that rope on it


Yes. It's because it can be twisted into a noose after you receive the bill! :happy:


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei's got his mojo workin'!


----------



## Flanderian

Corno Blu -


----------



## Fading Fast

What's so impressive about the shoes Flanderian has been kind enough to post in this thread is that even for the few that I don't love, I can still appreciate them for their quality of workmanship and materials.

You know all of these shoes are incredible and, if seen in person, whether they are your taste or not, you'd notice them for their quality. Even people who aren't insane about this stuff (like all of us here at AAAC) would notice them for their beauty and workmanship even if they didn't know all the minutia we here know.

It's like when you wear a nice quality suit that's been well tailored and you get compliments from people who don't really care about clothes - they don't know why, but they know "that" suit looks great.


----------



## SG_67

There’s something about quality and crafmanship that transcends ones personal tastes. 

It becomes art. People who care about such things notice and appreciate despite a thing not necessarily appealing to their taste.


----------



## StephenRG

SG_67 said:


> There's something about quality and crafmanship that transcends ones personal tastes.
> 
> It becomes art. People who care about such things notice and appreciate despite a thing not necessarily appealing to their taste.


I was discussing art vs. craft with a theatre critic friend a few days ago after I'd been to the NY Museum of Art and Design, and I said that craft requires basic skill and technique but adheres to a template, while art requires greater skill/technique and creativity. Hence as a craftsman or woman develops both technique and creativity, they move from craft to art.

As a side issue, we went off to see the Stoppard play "Travesties" (strongly recommended, if you like Stoppard's show-off brilliance, which I do), and there were frequent delightful references to clothing and tailoring.


----------



## CLTesquire

I saw this Yohei on The Sabot's Instagram today. It's incredible.


----------



## Flanderian

CLTesquire said:


> I saw this Yohei on The Sabot's Instagram today. It's incredible.
> 
> View attachment 21546


Wow! Those are fantastic. I'm not even a particular fan of chisel toes, but his look great to me.


----------



## eagle2250

Indeed, it's the mirror finished, chiseled toecap, the beveled waist, the stainless toe tap, etc. that grant grant the sex appeal that advances that particular pair from footwear to leather art!


----------



## Dhaller

Who needs that "Trad Girlfriend" thread when there's Flanderian's Japanese shoe thread? 

I'm almost never interested in black shoes (I have some just to complete the wardrobe), but those a couple of posts above have a kind of richness and depth which redefines "black shoe". It's hard to tell with a filtered and shopped photo, but there seems to be a hint of midnight blue in the black giving it a sense of greater depth. Lovely!

I'd buy suits around shoes like that.

DH


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei does derbies -










Yohei's got the blues -


----------



## Flanderian

Joe Works -


----------



## Fading Fast

All three ⇧ are quite nice, but Holy Schmoly, this ⇩ is one handsome boot:


----------



## Flanderian

Hiro Yanagamachi -


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Flanderian said:


> Yohei does derbies -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yohei's got the blues -


Oh my. Those derbies.


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei does boots -


----------



## Cassadine

Combing through the thread I've concluded that most of these are exquisitely made shoes. Some real beauties. Especially some of the boots. However, for me and my bad feet, the lasts appear excruciating. The Alden Barrie feels nigh unto bespoke for my feet. Presently have only one pair, but more are on the horizon. I recently had a younger chap ask me about starting a decent wardrobe. I recommended he start "bottom up". A loose fitting suit might look foolish but it probably won't harm you physically; a tight fitting collar can be unbuttoned, or a new shirt had for a pittance. But badly made, and badly fitting shoes can, and will, harm you eventually. I envy those of you with strong sturdy feet.


----------



## eagle2250

^^Alas, member Cassadine,
I feel your pain and would echo your assessment of Alden's Barrie last!


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Cassadine said:


> Combing through the thread I've concluded that most of these are exquisitely made shoes. Some real beauties. Especially some of the boots. However, for me and my bad feet, the lasts appear excruciating. The Alden Barrie feels nigh unto bespoke for my feet. Presently have only one pair, but more are on the horizon. I recently had a younger chap ask me about starting a decent wardrobe. I recommended he start "bottom up". A loose fitting suit might look foolish but it probably won't harm you physically; a tight fitting collar can be unbuttoned, or a new shirt had for a pittance. But badly made, and badly fitting shoes can, and will, harm you eventually. I envy those of you with strong sturdy feet.


Never accept uncomfortable shoes.


----------



## Flanderian

Cassadine said:


> Combing through the thread I've concluded that most of these are exquisitely made shoes. Some real beauties. Especially some of the boots. However, for me and my bad feet, the lasts appear excruciating. The Alden Barrie feels nigh unto bespoke for my feet. Presently have only one pair, but more are on the horizon. I recently had a younger chap ask me about starting a decent wardrobe. I recommended he start "bottom up". A loose fitting suit might look foolish but it probably won't harm you physically; a tight fitting collar can be unbuttoned, or a new shirt had for a pittance. But badly made, and badly fitting shoes can, and will, harm you eventually. I envy those of you with strong sturdy feet.


100%!!

Beautiful shoes that you can't wear because they're an agony, aren't really beautiful at all. I personally have never found Alden lasts suit me well, but if the Barrie last does the trick for you, it's a winner. But it might be surprising that sleek lasts don't necessarily mean a cramped fit.



eagle2250 said:


> ^^Alas, member Cassadine,
> I feel your pain and would echo your assessment of Alden's Barrie last!


That surprises me. Only because in our discussions here, you mentioned you have Cheaney's Chiswick on their 125 last from Herring and have found them very comfortable. Cheaney's 125 last and Alden's Barrie, at least judging from appearance are virtual opposites. Does that perhaps show that appearances can be deceiving?

Chiswick on 125 last -










Alden's Barrie last -


----------



## eagle2250

^^:icon_scratch: :icon_scratch: :icon_scratch:
I can't explain it, but just this past Saturday, I was wearing my Cheaney Chiswick R's and they felt fine on my feet and today I'm wearing my Alden All Weather Walkers (made on the Barrie Last) and they feel pretty darned comfortable, as well. I've never purchased a pair of Barrie Lasted shoes that didn't feel good on my feet!


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> ^^:icon_scratch: :icon_scratch: :icon_scratch:
> I can't explain it, but just this past Saturday, I was wearing my Cheaney Chiswick R's and they felt fine on my feet and today I'm wearing my Alden All Weather Walkers (made on the Barrie Last) and they feel pretty darned comfortable, as well. I've never purchased a pair of Barrie Lasted shoes that didn't feel good on my feet!


I think you've proven my point; I.e., a well designed sleeker last can usually be just as comfortable as those that aren't, provided they're properly fitted.

Another shoe in my wardrobe is an older J. M. Weston monk strap, which atypically for the make at the time was made on a very sleek last. (Sorry, don't know the name.) And it's one of the most comfortable shoes I own!


----------



## FLMike

So, the title of this thread holds no appeal to me. But then, as a long-time, regular member of this Forum (sorry fellas!), I see that the thread has sustained itself through 31 pages and I wonder if I’m missing something.

I can’t imagine going back and reading all 31 pages from the beginning, so does anyone have the TLDR version they can enlighten me with? The Reader’s Digest version, if you will....


----------



## Flanderian

FLMike said:


> So, the title of this thread holds no appeal to me. But then, as a long-time, regular member of this Forum (sorry fellas!), I see that the thread has sustained itself through 31 pages and I wonder if I'm missing something.
> 
> I can't imagine going back and reading all 31 pages from the beginning, so does anyone have the TLDR version they can enlighten me with? The Reader's Digest version, if you will....


Mainly pretty photos of pretty shoes. Along with limited discussion as to whether they float your boat. Some think they're breathtakingly beautiful, others, don't.

Like this:

JOE Works Shoemaker -


----------



## FLMike

Flanderian said:


> Mainly pretty photos of pretty shoes. Along with limited discussion as to whether they float your boat. Some think they're breathtakingly beautiful, others, don't.
> 
> Like this:
> 
> JOE Works Shoemaker -


Thanks. Yes, pretty shoes.


----------



## Cassadine

Flanderian said:


> Yohei does boots -


I'm finding it difficult to grab an adjective to describe how "magnificent" those boots look.


----------



## Flanderian

Cassadine said:


> I'm finding it difficult to grab an adjective to describe how "magnificent" those boots look.


You could always say, they look like a million dollars! 

(They likely don't cost much less. )


----------



## Cassadine

Flanderian said:


> You could always say, the look like a million dollars!
> 
> (They likely don't cost much less. )


Definitely not inexpensive.


----------



## eagle2250

Cassadine said:


> I'm finding it difficult to grab an adjective to describe how "magnificent" those boots look.





Flanderian said:


> You could always say, the look like a million dollars!
> 
> (They likely don't cost much less. )


Well they sure are not a pair of Redwings!


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei Fukuda -


----------



## JBierly

Flanderian said:


> Yohei Fukuda -


That is about as pretty as a pair of shoes gets!


----------



## Cassadine

Flanderian said:


> Yohei Fukuda -


The detailing is exquisite. Wish I could still wear a last such as that. The vicissitudes of time.


----------



## Flanderian

The Yohei Fukuda Show continues -


----------



## eagle2250

^^Now there's a shoe that could give a 'real man' his first hankering for a pair of patent leather shoes!


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> ^^Now there's a shoe that could give a 'real man' his first hankering for a pair of patent leather shoes!


Looks like patent leather, but I suspect just an abundant application of Saphir to a pair of unworn shoes.


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei does bluchers/derbies -

Edit: Eagle, it's a long wing! Now you've *got* to buy a pair!


----------



## SG_67

Flanderian said:


> Yohei does bluchers/derbies -


Gunboats my **s!


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Yohei does bluchers/derbies -
> 
> Edit: Eagle, it's a long wing! Now you've *got* to buy a pair!


My friend, I enthusiastically agree with your logic regarding potential motivations I might have for purchasing such. However, I am left struggling with the reality that my purchase of that last pair of Lucchese Boots may have been "the proverbial straw that broke the back" of my lovely wife's patience regarding my shoe/ boot excesses. LOL, were I to buy those, as memorably handsome as they truly are, they might prove to be the shoes I would be buried in, subsequent to my untimely passing! :crazy:


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> My friend, I enthusiastically agree with your logic regarding potential motivations I might have for purchasing such. However, I am left struggling with the reality that my purchase of that last pair of Lucchese Boots may have been "the proverbial straw that broke the back" of my lovely wife's patience regarding my shoe/ boot excesses. LOL, were I to buy those, as memorably handsome as they truly are, they might prove to be the shoes I would be buried in, subsequent to my untimely passing! :crazy:


Make it part of a package deal! Nice little holiday for Mr. & Mrs. First class tickets to Japan, a fortnight in Tokyo. (With a side trip to commission your footwear.) And then straight back to the poor house!


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei Fukuda -


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Make it part of a package deal! Nice little holiday for Mr. & Mrs. First class tickets to Japan, a fortnight in Tokyo. (With a side trip to commission your footwear.) And then straight back to the poor house!


If Eagle can sell that story to his wife, I'm never talking to him about insurance, a stock or, even, a bridge for that matter. Heck, he lives in Florida, land is off the table as well.


----------



## RogerP

So many of these shoes are just excruciatingly perfect. Impeccable craftsmanship.


----------



## Flanderian

RogerP said:


> So many of these shoes are just excruciatingly perfect. Impeccable craftsmanship.


That's what strikes me, the craftsmanship is peerless.


----------



## StephenRG

(Thinking about the wording for my GoFundMe page...)


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> If Eagle can sell that story to his wife, I'm never talking to him about insurance, a stock or, even, a bridge for that matter. Heck, he lives in Florida, land is off the table as well.


The last time I talked Mrs Eagle into doing something like that was a trip to Nogales, AZ (a long ride from Hoosierville to the Boot Factory!), for me to get fitted for a pair of custom Paul Bond Boots. The boots cost so much I was never fully comfortable wearing them and Nogales was not a prime vacation destination. I am not confident that I could convince her to make a trip to Japan, but by golly, I just might have to try! LOL.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> The last time I talked Mrs Eagle into doing something like that was a trip to Nogales, AZ (a long ride from Hoosierville to the Boot Factory!), for me to get fitted for a pair of custom Paul Bond Boots. The boots cost so much I was never fully comfortable wearing them and Nogales was not a prime vacation destination. I am not confident that I could convince her to make a trip to Japan, but by golly, I just might have to try! LOL.


So what we just learned is that you sold her, basically, on a vacation to nowhere AZ so that you could buy expensive boots.

Hence, my money is on you pulling a rabbit out of the hat again for Japan, which has a heck of a lot more going for it than cactus.

And, no, I have no interest in talking to you about "getting in on the ground floor" of any Florida land deal.


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei Fukuda -

Double monk demi-boot. Chukka?










Yohei, plain brown cap toe -


----------



## StephenRG

IMO not even Fukuda-san can rescue the double-monk boot.


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> IMO not even Fukuda-san can rescue the double-monk boot.


Game try, though. Double monks aren't a design I enjoy either, and it becomes little less awkward as a boot.


----------



## Victoria Star

Oldsarge said:


> For some reason I am seriously uninterested. $3K? For something to put on my feet? I think not.


hahaha, I completely understand, they are at least pretty to look at


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei -


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> Game try, though. Double monks aren't a design I enjoy either, and it becomes little less awkward as a boot.


I find the basic double-monk shoe boring or unaesthetic but there are versions I like - e.g., the legendary Lobb Chapel, and my own pair of Ballys. I find that single monks give greater scope for acceptable originality and flair.


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei Fukuda -










(Aki Nishiyama) Ann Bespoke Shoes -


----------



## Flanderian

Hiro Yanagamachi makes beautiful shoes -

But what do they look like after they've been neglected and beat to heck?










Still beautiful!


----------



## Flanderian

Lucido said:


> ^ A little edge-dressing and some suede renovateur and they'll be good as new, though I do like how they look with some wear on them.


Yes, surprisingly good for all that they've been through.


----------



## Flanderian

Simply Yohei Fukuda -


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei Fukuda on the hoof -










I know that single monk straps aren't liked by all, but I find it one of my favorite styles of footwear, though the currently more fashionable double monk has always seemed somewhat ungainly to me. Below is a trio of shoes by TYE Shoemaker, and the single monk in its center has to be one of the most graceful and beautiful I've encountered.


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Flanderian said:


> Simply Yohei Fukuda -


Jesus.


----------



## Dhaller

I am kind of tormented by the fact that I'l headed to Japan on Sunday, and I'll be there three weeks, but probably can't schedule a trip to Tokyo this time!

Well, maybe in the Fall.

DH


----------



## StephenRG

Hebrew Barrister said:


> Jesus.


No - _he_ just made clogs


----------



## Flanderian

Dhaller said:


> I am kind of tormented by the fact that I'l headed to Japan on Sunday, and I'll be there three weeks, but probably can't schedule a trip to Tokyo this time!
> 
> Well, maybe in the Fall.
> 
> DH


Any shoemakers where you're visiting?


----------



## Flanderian

Fukuda -


----------



## Dhaller

Flanderian said:


> Any shoemakers where you're visiting?


Hmmm, turns out there's a bespoke shoe maker (Tomoyuki Watanabe) who has a shop about a ten minute walk from my residence in Nagoya.

He has an IG with some nice looking shoes: https://www.instagram.com/bolero_shoemaker/

I'll try to schedule a visit (ironically, though I actually have my Japan residence in Nagoya, I have better contacts in Tokyo, so it's easier for me to get introductions and such there than in my "home" town!)

DH


----------



## SG_67

^ very nice! I bet if nothing else it would be fun to go into his shop and just chat.


----------



## Flanderian

Dhaller said:


> Hmmm, turns out there's a bespoke shoe maker (Tomoyuki Watanabe) who has a shop about a ten minute walk from my residence in Nagoya.
> 
> He has an IG with some nice looking shoes: https://www.instagram.com/bolero_shoemaker/
> 
> I'll try to schedule a visit (ironically, though I actually have my Japan residence in Nagoya, I have better contacts in Tokyo, so it's easier for me to get introductions and such there than in my "home" town!)
> 
> DH


Some nice looking shoes!

https://the-shoe-aristocat.blogspot.com/2013/04/tomoyuki-watanabe-bolero-bespoke-shoe.html

A double monk I could almost live with -










And -


----------



## Dhaller

Yes, the suedes in the third photo grabbed my attention as well.

DH


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Dhaller said:


> I am kind of tormented by the fact that I'l headed to Japan on Sunday, and I'll be there three weeks, but probably can't schedule a trip to Tokyo this time!
> 
> Well, maybe in the Fall.
> 
> DH


I'd return broke. Keep me away from the Japanese shoemakers!!


----------



## Flanderian

Dhaller said:


> Yes, the suedes in the third photo grabbed my attention as well.
> 
> DH


Yeah, the last is beautiful!


----------



## Brian Rodriguez

Are they brogue shoes?


----------



## Flanderian

Brian Rodriguez said:


> Are they brogue shoes?


Sorry, which ones are you inquiring about?


----------



## Flanderian

Hmm . . . ? :icon_scratch: Too beautiful?

TYE Shoemakers -


----------



## eagle2250

^^Not meaning to be critical, but the exaggerated design features of those Spectators are just a bit to much to be tasteful! They look almost like they were intended to be a ladies shoe. :icon_scratch:


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> ^^Not meaning to be critical, but the exaggerated design features of those Spectators are just a bit to much to be tasteful! They look almost like they were intended to be a ladies shoe. :icon_scratch:


Maybe from a different angle . . . :icon_scratch:

But they do look a little feminine as snapped. Beautiful work, though!


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

eagle2250 said:


> ^^Not meaning to be critical, but the exaggerated design features of those Spectators are just a bit to much to be tasteful! They look almost like they were intended to be a ladies shoe. :icon_scratch:


Yeah I don't like those. Something is off. They look kind if like heels.

Flawless workmanship, but I just don't like the design made. However, I assume that's what the owner wanted, so I am sure said owner is quite pleased.


----------



## Flanderian

Aki Nishiyama, Ann Bespoke Shoes -










Yohei Fukuda -


----------



## Flanderian

T.Shirakashi Bootmaker -


----------



## Fading Fast

Have no use at all for them in my life, but still want:








Since I own no art work, could I leave them on a shelf as a display?


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Have no use at all for them in my life, but still want:
> View attachment 22469
> 
> Since I own no art work, could I leave them on a shelf as a display?


You betcha! :beer:


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei's chukka -










And the oxford you rode in on!


----------



## SG_67

Flanderian said:


> Yohei's chukka -


Now that is just pornography!


----------



## JBierly

Flanderian said:


> Hmm . . . ? :icon_scratch: Too beautiful?
> 
> TYE Shoemakers -


They do have a bit of what I would call a cuban heel. I would wear them but I agree they are edgy.


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Flanderian said:


> Yohei's chukka -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the oxford you rode in on!


He is a master of making chisel toes work. On a summer evening, my would those look slick with a pair of light grey slacks and an unconstructed sport coat in a more summery blue color. With an airy white dress shirt, maybe a linen/cotton blend.


----------



## EclecticSr.

SG_67 said:


> Now that is just pornography!


XXX porn


----------



## Flanderian

Akira Tani -










Yohei does monks -


----------



## Flanderian

Eiji Murata -


----------



## Flanderian

Unsure if what we're seeing is simply patina added by the shine artist, or two slightly different shades of hide. In either case, very nice! Yohei Fukuda -


----------



## Flanderian

TYE Shoemakers -










Both following from Yohei Fukuda -


----------



## Flanderian

I prefer the single monk to the double, and this is a nice one. Seiichi Yoshimoto for Peticone -


----------



## Flanderian

Sleek, sleeker, sleekest! Yohei Fukuda -










Koji Endo Bottier -


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Koji Endo Bottier -


:icon_cheers:


----------



## Flanderian

Eiji Murata -










Yohei Fukuda -


----------



## eagle2250

How could one ever sufficiently steel themselves to possibly scuff the pristine soles of those Murata Cap toes. Not I, I fear.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> How could one ever sufficiently steel themselves to possibly scuff the pristine soles of those Murata Cap toes. Not I, I fear.


:happy: I was thinking of just keeping them as shaving mirrors!


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> How could one ever sufficiently steel themselves to possibly scuff the pristine soles of those Murata Cap toes. Not I, I fear.


Scuff them, I wouldn't even insult them by forcing them to sit in the closet with my plebeian shoes.

Kidding aside, they are too nice for my wardrobe in the same way a $4000 Loro Piana cashmere sport coat is too nice for my wardrobe: it would look and feel incongruous with my mid-price stuff.

Sure, with thoughtfulness, one can mix and match some less and more expensive items in an outfit (Upr does it well all the time), but those shoes would scream "I don't belong here" with a J.Crew suit, Press OCBD and BB tie. They need a Purple-Label, Oxxford or the equivalent suit to "feel" right.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Scuff them, I wouldn't even insult them by forcing them to sit in the closet with my plebeian shoes.
> 
> Kidding aside, they are too nice for my wardrobe in the same way a $4000 Loro Piana cashmere sport coat is too nice for my wardrobe: it would look and feel incongruous with my mid-price stuff.
> 
> Sure, with thoughtfulness, one can mix and match some less and more expensive items in an outfit (Upr does it well all the time), but those shoes would scream "I don't belong here" with a J.Crew suit, Press OCBD and BB tie. They need a Purple-Label, Oxxford or the equivalent suit to "feel" right.


You, Sir, are a wise man. I on the other hand have had to learn the hard way, spending far too much on items whose per price cost was way beyond what I was able to comfortably wear, absent undue doubts as to my ability to wear such without damaging the boots, the sweater, the chapeau, etc. and being out all that money. Hence, such items have been culled from the hoard and I've forfeited being able to enjoy any real value for the amount(s) of money spent. :crazy:


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> You, Sir, are a wise man. I on the other hand have had to learn the hard way, spending far too much on items whose per price cost was way beyond what I was able to comfortably wear, absent undue doubts as to my ability to wear such without damaging the boots, the sweater, the chapeau, etc. and being out all that money. Hence, such items have been culled from the hoard and I've forfeited being able to enjoy any real value for the amount(s) of money spent. :crazy:


I'm not wise, just cheap. In truth, I've learned the above by having bought a few incredible items on ridiculous sale over the years only to find, like you, I worry too much about them to fully enjoy them and, two, as noted in my previous post, they really don't work well with the rest of my outfit as they "out" elegance or "out" quality or "out" something my other items.

I worked with a guy for years - a private banker - whose entire wardrobe was at the level of the shoes in this thread. That wardrobe was incredible, in part, because each item was impressive, but also because it all fit together seamlessly since it was all at the same very high level of refinement and workmanship.

I remember sitting next to him in a meeting one day - he had his legs crossed and the bottom of his shoes looked like the bottom of the shoes in some of the pics in this thread. In person, they are more impressive than here. I understood then that I couldn't blend those shoes in with my other clothes - they needed his bespoke suits and shirts, etc., to work / to look natural.


----------



## Flanderian

Eiji Murata -


----------



## Dhaller

eagle2250 said:


> How could one ever sufficiently steel themselves to possibly scuff the pristine soles of those Murata Cap toes. Not I, I fear.


I think the trick is simply to keep to the red carpets.

It's pavement which is the problem!

DH


----------



## Flanderian

On the hoof -

Yohei Fukuda -










JOE Works Shoemaker -


----------



## StephenRG

Is there some special fineness of stitching vouchsafed only to Japanese shoemakers?


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Is there some special fineness of stitching vouchsafed only to Japanese shoemakers?


They do sometimes make me think they're made by fairies with jeweler's loupes.


----------



## Fading Fast

I know we've touched on it before, but clearly something culturally has caused Japan to produce many outstanding master shoe craftsmen / artisans and I'm glad they have. 

I can't imagine ever buying a pair owing to the price and that I'd need to up my entire wardrobe and, oh, my life offers few opportunities to wear them - but I'm glad as heck they are making them / I just like knowing such incredible people and shoes are out there in the world.


----------



## Flanderian

Adelaides that kill; Seiichi Yoshimoto for Perticone -










Yohei Fukuda -


----------



## StephenRG

More Yohei goodness:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> More Yohei goodness:


Wow! Beautiful! Lovely finishing for that hide too!


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei does suede -


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei's Budapester? 

No doubt, some are familiar with the stocky Budapester design of middle Europe as typified by those made by Vass -

Nothing could be further from Yohei Fukuda's svelte chisel toes, right? 

Well, maybe not entirely; while certainly no Budapester, the shoe below is significantly more substantial than most of master Fukuda's work. Not every bespoke client comes with slender feet, you know! But no less handsome and perfectly executed than his other footwear, irrespectively


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei Fukuda -


----------



## Flanderian

Aki Nishiyama -


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei does gill-shoes -


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Flanderian said:


> Aki Nishiyama -


Never heard of him, but I want to see more of his work, because this shoe is masterful.


----------



## Flanderian

Hebrew Barrister said:


> Never heard of him, but I want to see more of his work, because this shoe is masterful.


He is part of what I believe may be several shoemakers that comprise Ann Bespoke Shoes -

https://www.claymoorslist.com/portfolios/aa?doing_wp_cron=1532661242.1237289905548095703125


----------



## StephenRG

All we can afford is a print of "Dogs Playing Poker" (strictly speaking, "A Friend in Need") and here we're being shown original Rembrandts and Caravaggios.


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Yohei does gill-shoes -


Now if only I could find that shoe design at a reasonable price and perhaps in a different hue (Oxblood might be nice)? Heavy sigh!! Thanks for sharing those...they are quite handsome. :beer:


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> Now if only I could find that shoe design at a reasonable price and perhaps in a different hue (Oxblood might be nice)? Heavy sigh!! Thanks for sharing those...they are quite handsome. :beer:


When Will Boehlke was still publishing his blog, _A Suitable Wardrobe_, he once championed this style as the ideal "airport shoe" for its ability to be removed and donned easily. But I've found most examples of this style less aesthetically pleasing than this example. Wouldn't mind wearing these.

On an unrelated topic, I found a different blog article about the kangaroo leather you had championed, and noted R W Williams', of which I believe you're fond's use of it in a version of their Chelsea boot.

https://www.keikari.com/english/kangaroo-leather-characteristics/


----------



## DWFII

StephenRG said:


> Is there some special fineness of stitching vouchsafed only to Japanese shoemakers?





Fading Fast said:


> I know we've touched on it before, but clearly something culturally has caused Japan to produce many outstanding master shoe craftsmen / artisans and I'm glad they have.


Well, as I understand it, many of them were trained at Lobbs St. James.

But that said, in the 19th century there were no few boot and shoemakers sewing uppers and welt by hand at 50 stitches per inch and more. 64 spi was recorded more than once by June Swann, Past Keeper of the Shoe Collection at the Northampton Shoe Museum.

Of course, the leather was different then, the makers working since they were ten years old, and it was all done for show...never intended to be worn--as a way of demonstrating that no machines could equal the work of a master shoemaker.

Nothing I've seen...and I am a great admirer of the work of Fukuda and others...exceeds 18spi and all that's done with machine.

Oh, and Daniel Wegan stitched welt at 18spi for his second place entry at the recent World Championship of Shoemaking.


----------



## Flanderian

DWFII said:


> Well, as I understand it, many of them were trained at Lobbs St. James.
> 
> But that said, in the 19th century there were no few boot and shoemakers sewing uppers and welt by hand at 50 stitches per inch and more. 64 spi was recorded more than once by June Swann, Past Keeper of the Shoe Collection at the Northampton Shoe Museum.
> 
> Of course, the leather was different then, the makers working since they were ten years old, and it was all done for show...never intended to be worn--as a way of demonstrating that no machines could equal the work of a master shoemaker.
> 
> Nothing I've seen...and I am a great admirer of the work of Fukuda and others...exceeds 18spi and all that's done with machine.
> 
> Oh, and Daniel Wegan stitched welt at 18spi for his second place entry at the recent World Championship of Shoemaking.


Thank you for your insight, I find it invaluable. I had no idea that stitching that fine was possible, much less achieved. Truly objects d'art!

I've read previously that a number of the Japanese makers apprenticed originally with English firms. Yohei Fukuda is reported to have worked at both George Cleverley and Edward Green.

But while I know this sounds like sour grapes, I'm not sure I wouldn't be better satisfied, cost no object, by footwear made elsewhere, despite my admiration for these Japanese artisans. It's an issue of my personal aesthetic and the nature of footwear that might best suit my person. While not as fine, I believe something like the more robust shoes made by Vass might be better suited to my needs and style.

Edit: Just took a look at your Instagram blog, and strongly recommend it. That's really beautiful work!


----------



## DWFII

Flanderian said:


> But while I know this sounds like sour grapes, I'm not sure I wouldn't be better satisfied, cost no object, by footwear made elsewhere, despite my admiration for these Japanese artisans. It's an issue of my personal aesthetic and the nature of footwear that might best suit my person. While not as fine, I believe something like the more robust shoes made by Vass might be better suited to my needs and style.
> 
> Edit: Just took a look at your Instagram blog, and strongly recommend it. That's really beautiful work!


Well, no offense but I don't care for the Austro-Hungarian "School" of shoemaking. I know some do and that's fine--it's all subjective. YMMV

On the other hand there are probably many good makers working to much the same standards as the Japanese...with one exception--finish. I don't know many who can polish a shoe and get it ready for presentation quite like the Japanese makers.

But I do like finesse and fine workmanship...the search for excellence. I suspect that's because I am a maker, myself. And one of my dance teachers (my wife and I took many lessons--we needed them) said something that stuck with me: "Big moves just look clumsy."

PS...thanks for your remarks about my work.


----------



## Flanderian

DWFII said:


> Well, no offense but I don't care for the Austro-Hungarian "School" of shoemaking. I know some do and that's fine--it's all subjective. YMMV
> 
> On the other hand there are probably many good makers working to much the same standards as the Japanese...with one exception--finish. I don't know many who can polish a shoe and get it ready for presentation quite like the Japanese makers.
> 
> But I do like finesse and fine workmanship...the search for excellence. I suspect that's because I am a maker, myself. And one of my dance teachers (my wife and I took many lessons--we needed them) said something that stuck with me: "Big moves just look clumsy."
> 
> PS...thanks for your remarks about my work.


No offense taken at all! I appreciate your opinions and experience. Even Budapester designs apart, I find that even the finer work from Vass, for example, is more robust and less delicate than many of the beautiful Japanese shoes. But since I am most definitely more robust and less delicate in person, I think it might better compliment me. I've seen photos of many makers and noticed that footwear often looks differently when worn than in photos of it just posed. For example, I think St. Crispins makes beautiful footwear, but frankly, I'm not sure I like it as well in pictures of it being worn, whereas with Vass, the opposite is true. But you're correct, it's subjective.

However, other than the aesthetic, are there other differences with Austro-Hungarian footwear that you find less desirable?

Found this photo of Vass, and can see immediately that it would likely suit me particularly well.

But I couldn't agree more, for refinement and beauty of finishing, nothing exceeds the best Japanese makers. I still think objectively they're making the most beautiful shoes and boots in the world.


----------



## DWFII

Flanderian said:


> However, other than the aesthetic, are there other differences with Austro-Hungarian footwear that you find less desirable?
> 
> But I couldn't agree more, for refinement and beauty of finishing, nothing exceeds the best Japanese makers. I still think objectively they're making the most beautiful shoes and boots in the world.


Again, the things I look for...as a maker...in shoes and boots are examples of skill and focus and excellence.

Finer stitching takes more skill than coarser stitching, for instance. A clean natural outsole takes more skill than a dyed outsole. A beveled sewn waist under a horizontal channel cover takes more skill than a pegged waist.

And many of these aspects, all other things being equal, are also associated with stronger construction, longer life and better fit.

As for "most beautiful", not sure I would entirely agree--in every "school" there are makers who are outstanding. Is there anyone better than Fukuda? Nicholas Templeman, maybe. Patrick Frei, the reigning World Champion.

I don't know, but a lot of it depends on what you're looking for. A case can be made...and probably would have been a generation ago...that these high shine, glace' finishes are not only superficial glitter (of no intrinsic or functional value) but perhaps even detrimental to the health of the shoe.

When I came up the watchword was "let the natural beauty of leather speak for itself." I still think that's a good philosophy if only because it also lets the skill of the maker show to best advantage.

High shines, like every ornamentation on a shoe, can also be...probably originally evolved to be...a cover-up for a mistake.


----------



## Flanderian

DWFII said:


> Again, the things I look for...as a maker...in shoes and boots are examples of skill and focus and excellence.
> 
> Finer stitching takes more skill than coarser stitching, for instance. A clean natural outsole takes more skill than a dyed outsole. A beveled sewn waist under a horizontal channel cover takes more skill than a pegged waist.
> 
> And many of these aspects, all other things being equal, are also associated with stronger construction, longer life and better fit.
> 
> As for "most beautiful", not sure I would entirely agree--in every "school" there are makers who are outstanding. Is there anyone better than Fukuda? Nicholas Templeman, maybe. Patrick Frei, the reigning World Champion.
> 
> I don't know, but a lot of it depends on what you're looking for. A case can be made...and probably would have been a generation ago...that these high shine, glace' finishes are not only superficial glitter (of no intrinsic or functional value) but perhaps even detrimental to the health of the shoe.
> 
> When I came up the watchword was "let the natural beauty of leather speak for itself." I still think that's a good philosophy if only because it also lets the skill of the maker show to best advantage.
> 
> High shines, like every ornamentation on a shoe, can also be...probably originally evolved to be...a cover-up for a mistake.


I was further admiring your work on your Instagram blog. Beautiful Western boots. It's not an aesthetic I wear, but I do so much appreciate the beautiful work you've done. And your dress shoes are equally beautiful. I think you're very versatile to succeed with such different styles.


----------



## DWFII

Thank you. Greater range=greater skill.

I do a two piece boot--the Full Wellington. Almost no one else (that I know of) does it anymore because it is so difficult. Esp. with bona fide shoe leather, such as French Calf. It was a popular style in the early 19th century both in Europe and in the US.

I wrote a "how-to" on the subject...AFAIK, the only one ever written.

Bootmaking _is_ shoemaking--the fundamental skills and techniques are identical. But I added shoes to my repertoire late in my career.


----------



## Fading Fast

There's also the rest of the outfit to consider. At extremes, a heavy flannel, traditionally cut sack suit with a 1.5" cuff on the trousers, would (IMHO) work much better with a "heavier" shoe from Vass (or Alden); whereas, a slim cut, narrow lapel, superfine 160 suit with no cuff on the trousers would look better with the slimmer Japanese shoes. 

Of course, we usually don't have just extremes in our wardrobe, but I do limit my Alden dress boots to "heavier" suits / trousers and use my pretty slim Peal and COs shoes for my "lighter" suits / trousers. 

That said, and to repeat myself, I have no clothes that would allow me to, have not accomplished enough in life and lack the sartorial gravitas to carry off any of those Japanese works of fine art calling themselves shoes.


----------



## DWFII

There's a photo of Prince Charles floating around the Internet somewhere and IIRC, he is wearing a coarse tweed suit with 1-1/2" cuffs and a pair of what were once a rather refined oxfords.

Of course, he obviously liked them so much and had hung onto them for so long that the leather was extensively cracked and patched, so they _were_ a bit rough looking....


----------



## eagle2250

^^Recalling the picture to which you refer, I for one was quite impressed that Prince Charles was one to maintain his shoes to that extreme point of wear. There is greater substance to the man than he is generally accorded.


----------



## Flanderian

Kentaro Soyama -


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

eagle2250 said:


> ^^Recalling the picture to which you refer, I for one was quite impressed that Prince Charles was one to maintain his shoes to that extreme point of wear. There is greater substance to the man than he is generally accorded.


He is one of the most quotable men alive. If you want to be amused, go look up quotes of his.


----------



## Flanderian

Another shot of Yohei Fukuda's gill shoe -










A boot by TYE Shoemakers -


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Flanderian said:


> Another shot of Yohei Fukuda's gill shoe -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A boot by TYE Shoemakers -


Tye really makes gorgeous boots.


----------



## Flanderian

Aki Nishiyama for Ann Bespoke shoes -


----------



## StephenRG

Once upon a time, there were three boys, who went exploring in the woods. It was rumoured that there was an old wizard who lived in the woods who would sometimes give out unusual gifts. After a long time - well, long to the boys, but to you or me, about as long as the time between Jos A Bank sales - they saw a hut in a clearing. At first, the boys were scared.

Then one boy plucked up courage, and went up to the hut and knocked on the door. An old man with a long beard opened the door. "Hi", said the boy, "my name is Yohei". "Yohei?" said the man. "You might find this useful". He handed the boy a jeweller's loupe. "Hang on to this. In years to come, you will be grateful for the detail it reveals."

Yohei walked back, puzzled but happy. The second boy tried his luck. As before, the old man answered the door. "My name is Edward. Edward Green". "Ah", said the old man. He went back inside and brought out a piglet. "One day, you will find the bristles on this piglet useful - though by then it will be a boar." 

Edward walked back, also puzzled but happy.

The third boy then went up to the door and repeated the exercise. The old man opened the door, and before the boy could say a word, the old man handed him a chain saw and shut the door in his face.

The boy walked back, puzzled. As he got back to the other two boys, Edward asked him, "what did the old man tell you, Alden?"


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Once upon a time, there were three boys, who went exploring in the woods. It was rumoured that there was an old wizard who lived in the woods who would sometimes give out unusual gifts. After a long time - well, long to the boys, but to you or me, about as long as the time between Jos A Bank sales - they saw a hut in a clearing. At first, the boys were scared.
> 
> Then one boy plucked up courage, and went up to the hut and knocked on the door. An old man with a long beard opened the door. "Hi", said the boy, "my name is Yohei". "Yohei?" said the man. "You might find this useful". He handed the boy a jeweller's loupe. "Hang on to this. In years to come, you will be grateful for the detail it reveals."
> 
> Yohei walked back, puzzled but happy. The second boy tried his luck. As before, the old man answered the door. "My name is Edward. Edward Green". "Ah", said the old man. He went back inside and brought out a piglet. "One day, you will find the bristles on this piglet useful - though by then it will be a boar."
> 
> Edward walked back, also puzzled but happy.
> 
> The third boy then went up to the door and repeated the exercise. The old man opened the door, and before the boy could say a word, the old man handed him a chain saw and shut the door in his face.
> 
> The boy walked back, puzzled. As he got back to the other two boys, Edward asked him, "what did the old man tell you, Alden?"


----------



## Flanderian

Seiichi Yoshimoto for Peticone -










Kentaro Soyama -


----------



## DWFII

FWIW and to inject a little balance--at the recent World Championship of Shoemaking:























First place: Patrick Frei-Germany

Second place: Danial Wegan--Sweden (Gaziano & Girling)

Fourth and fifth place: Japanese

Check out this link to see photos of all the top ten as well as construction techniques, etc..


----------



## DWFII

Nicholas Templeman (from his IG page) "Old school Annonay grained calf"


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei gets frisky  -


----------



## Flanderian

DWFII said:


> Nicholas Templeman (from his IG page) "Old school Annonay grained calf"
> 
> View attachment 23277


Lovely shoes!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Yohei gets frisky  -


Those have Roger P and Momsdoc written all over them.


----------



## Flanderian

Tsuyoshi Ohno TYE Shoemaker -


----------



## upr_crust

Fading Fast said:


> Those have Roger P and Momsdoc written all over them.


They also have several hundred thousand yen written all over them as well


----------



## Flanderian

upr_crust said:


> They also have several hundred thousand yen written all over them as well


324,000 to be precise! 

(Sorry, trees are extra. )

Edit: Plus first class to Japan. Bespoke at their atelier only.


----------



## Fading Fast

upr_crust said:


> They also have several hundred thousand yen written all over them as well


Yes, that would be a bugaboo.


----------



## eagle2250

"324,000 yen!" That's about $2912. Think I'll sneak back into my closet and kiss a few pair of my Alden's and AE's! LOL


----------



## RogerP

Stunning without a doubt. But my wallet says I had better go kiss eagle's Aldens as well. 

Thanks for the continued eye candy!


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> "324,000 yen!" That's about $2912. Think I'll sneak back into my closet and kiss a few pair of my Alden's and AE's! LOL


Well, at least it's not $3000 .


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> "324,000 yen!" That's about $2912. Think I'll sneak back into my closet and kiss a few pair of my Alden's and AE's! LOL


Heck, $2,912, that's a *bargain* for superlative bespoke! You can spend significantly more, and get less.

And think how much SWMBO would enjoy her trip to Tokyo! A lifetime holiday! :devil:


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Heck, $2,912, that's a *bargain* for superlative bespoke! You can spend significantly more, and get less.
> 
> And think how much SWMBO would enjoy her trip to Tokyo! A lifetime holiday! :devil:


As has been noted so often in the past, 'of course you are correct in your observations.' However, as I learned from my purchase of a pair of Paul Bond Custom boots several years back, when some of us go beyond a certain price point in the purchase of a garment or a pair of shoes, boots, etc., we are just not comfortable wearing/using such items and they essentially become closet queens, affording us no real value at all. When I sold those boots, just prior to moving down here, they looked almost brand new (except for the bottom of the soles) and I received somewhere around seven cents on the dollar for what I had originally paid for them...and that doesn't include the cost of the wife's and my trip to Nogales, AZ, to get me sized and place the order!

LOL. I oh-so-love looking at the pictures of those bespoke beauties, but I better stick to the purchase of shoes in the $500 to $750 range and occasionally may splurge on a pair of $1400 Lucchese's, as I did late last year, if I plan to actually wear and get some value from them!


----------



## ItalianStyle

My grandmother was the type that would always save expensive things for 'that special occasion' (be it clothes, gifts, household items etc.).
She passed away from old age and all those fancy objects were never used.

To me that was an eye-opener...

Use the good stuff until it falls apart and enjoy every second you use it.


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

eagle2250 said:


> As has been noted so often in the past, 'of course you are correct in your observations.' However, as I learned from my purchase of a pair of Paul Bond Custom boots several years back, when some of us go beyond a certain price point in the purchase of a garment or a pair of shoes, boots, etc., we are just not comfortable wearing/using such items and they essentially become closet queens, affording us no real value at all. When I sold those boots, just prior to moving down here, they looked almost brand new (except for the bottom of the soles) and I received somewhere around seven cents on the dollar for what I had originally paid for them...and that doesn't include the cost of the wife's and my trip to Nogales, AZ, to get me sized and place the order!
> 
> LOL. I oh-so-love looking at the pictures of those bespoke beauties, but I better stick to the purchase of shoes in the $500 to $750 range and occasionally may splurge on a pair of $1400 Lucchese's, as I did late last year, if I plan to actually wear and get some value from them!


Sometimes I have the crazy idea of commissioning a bespoke shoe I would wear the most of any pair of mine - a basic mid-brown chukka. Nothing fancy looking, no exotic materials or shape. Just a basic chukka, but made from real high quality materials, hand welted, specific to my feet.

My mid brown chukkas get more wear that anything else, which gives me this idea.

It's similar to my lust after a Credor Eichi watch. It's nothing most people would recognize at all or would be able to tell from a run of the mill cheap item - but I would know, and I would enjoy.


----------



## cloth_guy5

@eagle2250...and everyone!,

I enjoyed your comments and thought I would add a couple of my own. I agree to an extent about the "closet queen" mentality. However, I just wear them anyway because I figure if I scuff them up who cares! Life is short and at least I enjoyed them!

On a little more serious note however, I do ascribe to the thought of diminishing returns past a certain price point in regards to footwear. I don't feel qualified to comment on dress shoes as I have never owned a pair. I have worn strictly cowboy boots my whole life and have two bespoke pairs. One is Paul Bond...great choice eagle! I love 'em. Another is by a top notch company in Texas called Rocket Busters (I went personally for the fittings for both companies). Both are impeccable and by no means am I talking badly about these fine establishments.

My point is are they several thousand dollars of impeccable? Honestly, I'm not exactly sure. I own a lot of nicer/higher end brands of boots (e.g. Luchesse, Cuadra, etc.) at a fraction of the cost of my bespoke boots which I think are, for the most part, nearly as good overall. Also, I make regular visits South of the Border and find outstanding boots at very reasonable prices as well (I recently posted a couple photos under the "new shoes" thread). I suppose one thing about the bespoke boots is I was able to get exactly what I wanted in every way and have something one of a kind. Overall though, what I learned is that (for me anyway) this is something I'm glad I experienced but don't need to do again.

Perhaps all this applies to shoes as well. I don't know. These are just my thoughts, experiences, and opinions only regarding higher end footwear. Either way I'm enjoying the photos and the conversation. Everyone have a great day!



eagle2250 said:


> As has been noted so often in the past, 'of course you are correct in your observations.' However, as I learned from my purchase of a pair of Paul Bond Custom boots several years back, when some of us go beyond a certain price point in the purchase of a garment or a pair of shoes, boots, etc., we are just not comfortable wearing/using such items and they essentially become closet queens, affording us no real value at all. When I sold those boots, just prior to moving down here, they looked almost brand new (except for the bottom of the soles) and I received somewhere around seven cents on the dollar for what I had originally paid for them...and that doesn't include the cost of the wife's and my trip to Nogales, AZ, to get me sized and place the order!
> 
> LOL. I oh-so-love looking at the pictures of those bespoke beauties, but I better stick to the purchase of shoes in the $500 to $750 range and occasionally may splurge on a pair of $1400 Lucchese's, as I did late last year, if I plan to actually wear and get some value from them!


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> As has been noted so often in the past, 'of course you are correct in your observations.' However, as I learned from my purchase of a pair of Paul Bond Custom boots several years back, when some of us go beyond a certain price point in the purchase of a garment or a pair of shoes, boots, etc., we are just not comfortable wearing/using such items and they essentially become closet queens, affording us no real value at all. When I sold those boots, just prior to moving down here, they looked almost brand new (except for the bottom of the soles) and I received somewhere around seven cents on the dollar for what I had originally paid for them...and that doesn't include the cost of the wife's and my trip to Nogales, AZ, to get me sized and place the order!
> 
> LOL. I oh-so-love looking at the pictures of those bespoke beauties, but I better stick to the purchase of shoes in the $500 to $750 range and occasionally may splurge on a pair of $1400 Lucchese's, as I did late last year, if I plan to actually wear and get some value from them!


Ah, you're no fun! You use reason and experience to win your arguments. 

I realized a while back, that I have a literal lifetime supply of virtually all categories of clothing.  And in earnest, I'm just fine with that. My sweet-spot threshold for new footwear is somewhere in the $200-$400 range, as I'm already amply provided. For example, my footwear today was a 25+ year old pair of U.S. made Johnston and Murphy brogues. They're made from Olive nubuck (Yes, I know what it is and why some other varieties of hide are superior.) on a classic American town last. They're Goodyear welted and have a Vibram sole.

I purchased them for $90 as Johnston and Murphy was in the process of shutting down their U.S. production and discontinuing all their shoes on this traditional last. They are very comfortable, but also elegant in a sporting manner. They go nicely with a sport jacket, or today, taupe, olive and wine colored $2.50 Targyles, which also harmonize with my embroidered maroon surcingle belt.

I am a happy man! And a cheap one.


----------



## StephenRG

Hebrew Barrister said:


> It's similar to my lust after a Credor Eichi watch. It's nothing most people would recognize at all or would be able to tell from a run of the mill cheap item - but I would know, and I would enjoy.


If money were no object, I think that is the first watch I would buy.


----------



## RogerP

ItalianStyle said:


> My grandmother was the type that would always save expensive things for 'that special occasion' (be it clothes, gifts, household items etc.).
> She passed away from old age and all those fancy objects were never used.
> 
> To me that was an eye-opener...
> 
> Use the good stuff until it falls apart and enjoy every second you use it.


No doubt. My most expensive shoes and boots see as much wear as my least expensive options. Life is a special occasion of unknown duration - live it!


----------



## Fading Fast

ItalianStyle said:


> My grandmother was the type that would always save expensive things for 'that special occasion' (be it clothes, gifts, household items etc.).
> She passed away from old age and all those fancy objects were never used.
> 
> To me that was an eye-opener...
> 
> Use the good stuff until it falls apart and enjoy every second you use it.





RogerP said:


> No doubt. My most expensive shoes and boots see as much wear as my least expensive options. Life is a special occasion of unknown duration - live it!


This ⇧ is great advice that it took me a long time to learn and, other than the occasional slip, follow. I don't wear my best suede shoes to wash a car - obviously, some common sense is in order - but now I wear my good stuff and simply enjoy it.

But, like Eagle, there are certain numbers that are just too high for me to enjoy things even though I am fortunate in that I could afford to occasionally splurge on them.

I could buy a pair of custom made shoes for $3000 (one time, not regularly*), but I know I wouldn't enjoy them. It took me long enough to get comfortable wearing my $500+ Alden boots regularly. I just know myself well enough to know I'd never truly enjoy - I'd never truly feel carefree - wearing $3000 shoes.

The other issue is, they'd look out of line with the rest of my clothes - they'd look too nice, too well made, too many levels up.

* Also, if I ever lost my mind and bought several pairs of $3000 shoes, my born-in-the-Depression-dead-over-twenty-five-years-now father would come back as a ghost and kill me.


----------



## Flanderian

RogerP said:


> No doubt. My most expensive shoes and boots see as much wear as my least expensive options. Life is a special occasion of unknown duration - live it!


----------



## cloth_guy5

Fading Fast said:


> This ⇧ is great advice that it took me a long time to learn and, other than the occasional slip, follow. I don't wear my best suede shoes to wash a car - obviously, some common sense is in order - but now I wear my good stuff and simply enjoy it.
> 
> But, like Eagle, there are certain numbers that are just too high for me to enjoy things even though I am fortunate in that I could afford to occasionally splurge on them.
> 
> I could buy a pair of custom made shoes for $3000 (one time, not regularly*), but I know I wouldn't enjoy them. It took me long enough to get comfortable wearing my $500+ Alden boots regularly. I just know myself well enough to know I'd never truly enjoy - I'd never truly feel carefree - wearing $3000 shoes.
> 
> The other issue is, they'd look out of line with the rest of my clothes - they'd look too nice, too well made, too many levels up.
> 
> * Also, if I ever lost my mind and bought several pairs of $3000 shoes, my born-in-the-Depression-dead-over-twenty-five-years-now father would come back as a ghost and kill me.


@fadingfast,

Excellent points you, and everyone else, have made. I've always believed that clothing is supposed to infuse confidence and if it doesn't make you feel "carefree" as you stated then one has just wasted money to a certain extent.

Just to reiterate, my point in all this is that from my experience I sincerely believe that once a certain price point is reached there is a point of diminishing returns in regards to footwear. I have two pairs of bespoke dress cowboy boots that are in the price range of the dress shoes we are talking about here. Additionally, both are from top notch makers. After wearing them extensively, can I honestly say they are so much better than my $500 to $700 pairs that I need to make an appointment and do it again? Well...no. Although it was great to do once or twice and I have zero regrets with my purchases (in fact I love 'em!) that's enough in all honesty.

I don't wear shoes so this may not be applicable here. Maybe I'm comparing apples to oranges. However, at least a little bit, I believe there is some merit to my comments that members may find useful. Once again, these are just my opinions based on my experiences and either way this is a fun discussion! Everyone have a great day!


----------



## Fading Fast

cloth_guy5 said:


> @fadingfast,
> 
> Excellent points you, and everyone else, have made. I've always believed that clothing is supposed to infuse confidence and if it doesn't make you feel "carefree" as you stated then one has just wasted money to a certain extent.
> 
> Just to reiterate, my point in all this is that from my experience I sincerely believe that once a certain price point is reached there is a point of diminishing returns in regards to footwear. I have two pairs of bespoke dress cowboy boots that are in the price range of the dress shoes we are talking about here. Additionally, both are from top notch makers. After wearing them extensively, can I honestly say they are so much better than my $500 to $700 pairs that I need to make an appointment and do it again? Well...no. Although it was great to do once or twice and I have zero regrets with my purchases (in fact I love 'em!) that's enough in all honesty.
> 
> I don't wear shoes so this may not be applicable here. Maybe I'm comparing apples to oranges. However, at least a little bit, I believe there is some merit to my comments that members may find useful. Once again, these are just my opinions based on my experiences and either way this is a fun discussion! Everyone have a great day!


I agree completely. While I've never had custom made shoes or boots, my experience with other luxury items tells me that many luxury goods have the same diminishing-returns curve that you experienced with your boots.

I haven't owned a car since the late '80s, but from my, admittedly, only occasional rides in cars ranging from $30k to $300k, the difference between a $30k car and a $100K car is much, much, much greater than the difference between a $100k and $200k car.

The same with audio equipment. Growing up in the '70s, the difference between a $200 and $500 pair of speakers was huge, but step up to the $1000 pair and you needed a very acute ear to notice a meaningful difference.

Even in clothes, I have some very good cashmere sweaters from Black Fleece and Polo Purple label (both bought on big sales) and they are meaningfully nicer than the basic Brooks Brothers line (where the price difference - comparing at full retail pricing - is a few hundred bucks), but to step up to Loro Piana would be - in some cases - $1000 or more and, at least to my eye and hand, not as big a step as the few hundred dollars from BB to Purple label.

Heck, $100 to $200 in shoes is, in many cases, a more meaningful improvement than $200 to $400. I can't say it applies to all luxury goods, but it is a pattern I, like you, have observed in many of them.

That said, those smaller incremental improvement can mean a lot to the individual who buys the more expensive item. I'm not criticizing someone who makes that choice (you earn your money and you are free to spend it however you wish).


----------



## StephenRG

And now back to your regular programming


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## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> And now back to your regular programming
> 
> View attachment 23440


Very nice! Is that Yohei Fukuda's? He seems to have a patent on the galosh oxford.


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## DWFII

Flanderian said:


> Very nice! Is that Yohei Fukuda's? He seems to have a patent on the _*galosh oxford*_.


AKA the "Balmoral."


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> Very nice! Is that Yohei Fukuda's? He seems to have a patent on the galosh oxford.


Yes it is and yes he does.


----------



## Flanderian

TYE Shoemakers. Love the choice of hide colors chosen to pair for these spectators, and the precision of the work. Sorry, some photos are smaller format -


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## StephenRG

More Yohei:


----------



## ItalianStyle

Stunning quality aside, I never had the confidence to wear a green pair of shoes...
What would you pair them with (for ordinary use, not in a "I want to make a fashion statement" kind of way…)?


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## Flanderian

Lucido said:


> ^ Much easier in a green rather than smooth leather, but they work well with khakis, jeans and mid-grey flannels.


+1. I have two pair of green shoes, both suede, both brogues and both on rubber soles. One is ivy colored, the other dusty olive. They are both versatile, particularly the dusty olive, with anything from sport jackets to khakis.

I do think something as vivid as in the group photo would be a bit more specialized.


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## StephenRG

I would wear the green pair with a medium-blue suit. It's not a pairing that everyone would approve of.


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## StephenRG

More Yohei:


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## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> More Yohei:


Beautiful!


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## Flanderian

Aki Nishiyama for Ann Bespoke Shoes -










TYE Shoemakers -


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## StephenRG

Hiro Yanagimachi - RogerP, please note


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## RogerP

^^^ Noted!


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## Flanderian

Seiichi Yoshimoto for Perticone -










Yohei, from his RTW line I believe -


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## Flanderian

Eiji Murata -


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## StephenRG

Hiro Yanagimachi:


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## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Hiro Yanagimachi:


Magnificent shoes! Thank you.


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## Flanderian

Yohei -


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei does whiskey -










TYE shoemaker -


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## Flanderian

JOE Works -


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei Fukuda -










Eiji Murata -


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## RogerP

I've come close to pulling the trigger on a Joe Works pair. They look awfully good.


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## Flanderian

RogerP said:


> I've come close to pulling the trigger on a Joe Works pair. They look awfully good.












Also, don't know if you have any interest in Yohei Fukuda's RTW, but if so, you likely know this merchant is offering a few models via mail order -

https://www.thesabot.com/collections/yohei-fukuda

Edit: Here's an article about JOE Works, if you've not seen it -


----------



## RogerP

Cheers my man - I did not know that The Sabot was carrying his line.


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei Fukuda. Should be dubbed the _*Roger P Specials*_ in his honor!  -


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Yohei Fukuda. Should be dubbed the _*Roger P Specials*_ in his honor!  -


Holy Cats those are gorgeous - museum quality. And they do say Roger P.

I'm a life-long daydreamer. It is rare - especially with all the practice that I've had - when the real world exceeds that of my imagination, but those certainly do.


----------



## Flanderian

Ann Bespoke Shoemakers -










Yohei Fukuda -


----------



## Flanderian

Noriyuki Misawa -










Yohei Fukuda -


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei Fukuda -










Seiichi Yoshimoto for Peticone -


----------



## eagle2250

Those chocolate suede short wings are sublime. Indeed, they visually qualify as 'sex for the feet!'


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> Those chocolate suede short wings are sublime. Indeed, they visually qualify as 'sex for the feet!'


*GOTS 'TA, GOTS 'TA, GOTS 'TA!!!










*


----------



## SG_67

eagle2250 said:


> Those chocolate suede short wings are sublime. Indeed, they visually qualify as 'sex for the feet!'


It's a very sleek profile.


----------



## Flanderian

An interesting article titled The World's Finest Shoemakers. Always arguable, of course, but still a nice sampling of 11 top brands, including several Japanese makers -

https://www.dmarge.com/2017/07/worlds-best-shoemakers.html

I found this description of the fitting process for _TYE Bespoke Shoemakers_ particularly interesting.

"The TYE bespoke process occurs over three fittings: the first consultation involves taking measurements and discussing design, before a second fitting with a trial shoe and a final appointment to ensure no imperfections are present on the finished production."


----------



## paxonus

The Armoury has just launched their own line of shoes. The designer: Fukuda.


----------



## upr_crust

Fukuda is also doing a trunk show of their first offering of RTW shoes at the Armoury. They actually had a couple of sample pairs on display when I was there last evening - exquisite detailing, commensurately priced.


----------



## Flanderian

paxonus said:


> The Armoury has just launched their own line of shoes. The designer: Fukuda.





upr_crust said:


> Fukuda is also doing a trunk show of their first offering of RTW shoes at the Armoury. They actually had a couple of sample pairs on display when I was there last evening - exquisite detailing, commensurately priced.


FWIW, I can't find the article now, but I recall reading something to the effect of his RTW line not being made at his atelier. But they are his designs and lasts, made at other superb quality shops in Japan of his choosing, to his standards. And by the look of them that seems evident, and the fact they may not be made in his tiny shop doesn't diminish their appeal in the least.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> ...But they are his designs and lasts, made at other superb quality shops in Japan of his choosing, to his standards....


And based on this thread, it means he has about 10,000 superb quality shops in Japan making shoes from which to choose.


----------



## CLTesquire

upr_crust said:


> Fukuda is also doing a trunk show of their first offering of RTW shoes at the Armoury. They actually had a couple of sample pairs on display when I was there last evening - exquisite detailing, commensurately priced.


Hopefully you picked up a pair that you'll be photographing for us!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> And based on this thread, it means he has about 10,000 superb quality shops in Japan making shoes from which to choose.






CLTesquire said:


> Hopefully you picked up a pair that you'll be photographing for us!


Or several!


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei Fukuda -










T.Shirakashi Bootmaker -


----------



## Flanderian

upr_crust said:


> Fukuda is also doing a trunk show of their first offering of RTW shoes at the Armoury. They actually had a couple of sample pairs on display when I was there last evening - exquisite detailing, commensurately priced.


Yohei Fukuda RTW on the hoof -


----------



## John inSC

The Japanese do make some great looking shoes. The heels seem visually higher than most American/British shoes - is this my eyes playing tricks on me from the way the soles on Japanese shoes have the nice undercut that gives the V shape?


----------



## eagle2250

^^
What you are describing could be nothing more than the visual effect of the beveled waist on some of the shoe soles.


----------



## Flanderian

John inSC said:


> The Japanese do make some great looking shoes. The heels seem visually higher than most American/British shoes - is this my eyes playing tricks on me from the way the soles on Japanese shoes have the nice undercut that gives the V shape?





eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> What you are describing could be nothing more than the visual effect of the beveled waist on some of the shoe soles.


Yes, it does often look as if they are. And it appears that some actually are a bit higher, whereas others appear so mainly due to the phenomenon you identify, as well as a tapering of the heel.

The main reasons for this appearance are the very narrow, undercut waists, and that the heels often are very slightly tapered to be narrower where they stand than where they attach, adding a appearance of being higher/thinner.

But as heels are the product of successive layers of leather, I have certainly seen a few that have had an extra layer added making them higher. That and how radical the taper of the heel is can most certainly make them appear significantly higher. But these are less common. And to be clear, we're not discussing any radical designs.

I don't believe the Yohei Fukuda shoe at issue, or other footwear by him that I've seen, do indeed have a higher heel of any significance. But if you study a side view of his carefully, you can certainly see the subtle taper of the heel, along with that tiny waist.


----------



## upr_crust

CLTesquire said:


> Hopefully you picked up a pair that you'll be photographing for us!





Flanderian said:


> Or several!


At $2,200/pair, one pair would be an extravagance.


----------



## John inSC

Flanderian said:


> Yes, it does often look as if they are. And it appears that some actually are a bit higher, whereas others appear so mainly due to the phenomenon you identify, as well as a tapering of the heel.
> 
> The main reasons for this appearance are the very narrow, undercut waists, and that the heels often are very slightly tapered to be narrower where they stand than where they attach, adding a appearance of being higher/thinner.
> 
> But as heels are the product of successive layers of leather, I have certainly seen a few that have had an extra layer added making them higher. That and how radical the taper of the heel is can most certainly make them appear significantly higher. But these are less common. And to be clear, we're not discussing any radical designs.
> 
> I don't believe the Yohei Fukuda shoe at issue, or other footwear by him that I've seen, do indeed have a higher heel of any significance. But if you study a side view of his carefully, you can certainly see the subtle taper of the heel, along with that tiny waist.


The extra stack if the case - does look good, oddly adds an additional layer of sleekness. High(er) heels feel nice when walking, at least on my western boots, I would imagine much the same on specific pairs of dress shoes. I'm amazed that such a taper to the sole is possible; looks fantastic.


----------



## upr_crust

Yesterday afternoon, purely in the interest of science, and because my office is a mere 5-10 minute stroll from the Armoury, I went and tried on the try-on shoes for Yohei Fukuda. For the record, pair of RTW Fukudas are $2300/pair (not $2200, as previously stated), or $2750 for MTO orders. 

The try-on shoes are plain black cap toes, and their soles are not at all beveled. The sizing in in UK sizes, and ran pretty true (I am a 8.5E UK, and Fukuda's sample fit me). The tongue of the shoe did slide down a bit when attempting to put them on, a minor annoyance, but the shoes did fit. 

The shoes were comfortable enough, considering that I may have been the first person to try on the try-on shoes, but not all that comfortable. They were, however, quite elegant looking, and, as noted above, the slight taper to the heel adds the illusion of greater heel height. 

The toe shape was reminiscent of that of Gaziano & Girling, which was unsurprising, as Fukuda apparently trained under G & G, and was ironic, as I was wearing a pair of G & G's made for Paul Stuart yesterday, so that I could see the resemblance quite clearly. 

Of course, the sales staff at the Armoury suggested that I visit today or tomorrow, as Fukuda-san is to be on site - a very dangerous suggestion for my net worth, I am sure. 

The available RTW stock is quite limited - wise on the Armoury's part, given the price point, but the salesman did note that, in my size, they had both the black cap toe, and the brown semi-brogue in my size (the brown semi-brogue was unavailable above a UK size 10). 

For your interest, then, gentlemen . . .


----------



## Flanderian

upr_crust said:


> Yesterday afternoon, purely in the interest of science, and because my office is a mere 5-10 minute stroll from the Armoury, I went and tried on the try-on shoes for Yohei Fukuda. For the record, pair of RTW Fukudas are $2300/pair (not $2200, as previously stated), or $2750 for MTO orders.
> 
> The try-on shoes are plain black cap toes, and their soles are not at all beveled. The sizing in in UK sizes, and ran pretty true (I am a 8.5E UK, and Fukuda's sample fit me). The tongue of the shoe did slide down a bit when attempting to put them on, a minor annoyance, but the shoes did fit.
> 
> The shoes were comfortable enough, considering that I may have been the first person to try on the try-on shoes, but not all that comfortable. They were, however, quite elegant looking, and, as noted above, the slight taper to the heel adds the illusion of greater heel height.
> 
> The toe shape was reminiscent of that of Gaziano & Girling, which was unsurprising, as Fukuda apparently trained under G & G, and was ironic, as I was wearing a pair of G & G's made for Paul Stuart yesterday, so that I could see the resemblance quite clearly.
> 
> Of course, the sales staff at the Armoury suggested that I visit today or tomorrow, as Fukuda-san is to be on site - a very dangerous suggestion for my net worth, I am sure.
> 
> The available RTW stock is quite limited - wise on the Armoury's part, given the price point, but the salesman did note that, in my size, they had both the black cap toe, and the brown semi-brogue in my size (the brown semi-brogue was unavailable above a UK size 10).
> 
> For your interest, then, gentlemen . . .


Thank you for the excellent first-hand description of your experience. Sounds like fun!

My Internet browsing has to date only yielded 4 or 5 different RTW styles he is having made. Though there may simply be others I'm unfamiliar with.

Should you happen to stop by to visit with Mr. Fukuda, it would also be enjoyable to learn what you think.


----------



## RogerP

Thanks for the first hand account, crusty! Were I blessed with your proximity, I'd seize the opportunity to meet and greet Mr. Fukuda in a heartbeat! At those price points, however, the shoes would literally have to knock my socks off to inspire an actual purchase. I expect any boot offerings would be significantly more costly.


----------



## Fading Fast

RogerP said:


> Thanks for the first hand account, crusty! Were I blessed with your proximity, I'd seize the opportunity to meet and greet Mr. Fukuda in a heartbeat! At those price points, however, the shoes would literally have to knock my socks off to inspire an actual purchase. I expect any boot offerings would be significantly more costly.


I agree - thank you Upr for the first hand report.

A few thoughts.

I wonder if meeting Mr. Fukuda doesn't turn into an "Oh, Christ, I have to buy a pair of shoes / boots from him both for the experience and because he's just so...so Mr. Fukuda awesome."

And, at those price points, does the extra cost for the boot matter - you are in the "if I have to ask the price, I can't afford it" category anyway.

Also, from another angle, if one is fortunate that $2000 or $3000 or $4000 isn't going to materially change one's life - bills still get paid, retirement plan still in place, kid can still go to college (and still hate me anyway), emergency money still available for the unexpected, pocket change to buy chocolate chip cookie for the commute home secure - then a few "I bought these shoes from Mr. Fukuda" experiences might very well be worth it.


----------



## upr_crust

Fading Fast said:


> I agree - thank you Upr for the first hand report.
> 
> A few thoughts.
> 
> I wonder if meeting Mr. Fukuda doesn't turn into an "Oh, Christ, I have to buy a pair of shoes / boots from him both for the experience and because he's just so...so Mr. Fukuda awesome."
> 
> And, at those price points, does the extra cost for the boot matter - you are in the "if I have to ask the price, I can't afford it" category anyway.
> 
> Also, from another angle, if one is fortunate that $2000 or $3000 or $4000 isn't going to materially change one's life - bills still get paid, retirement plan still in place, kid can still go to college (and still hate me anyway), emergency money still available for the unexpected, pocket change to buy chocolate chip cookie for the commute home secure - then a few "I bought these shoes from Mr. Fukuda" experiences might very well be worth it.


I am staying away from the Armoury (or, at least at this moment that is my intention - we'll see how I feel at 5:00 PM) precisely so that I do not have a "Fukuda-san is so awesome, I need to buy his shoes" moment. The fact that I have more than enough shoes in my closet, and that I am going to be traveling abroad to London in about 11 days' time, when and where extravagances of spending could well occur is also factored into this decision.

Could I afford Fukuda RTW shoes? In theory, yes. Should I afford his shoes? More than likely, not, at least not at this time.

(The management reserves the right to be totally capricious in this matter, and ignore the well-reasoned arguments given above. )


----------



## RogerP

Fading Fast said:


> I wonder if meeting Mr. Fukuda doesn't turn into an "Oh, Christ, I have to buy a pair of shoes / boots from him both for the experience and because he's just so...so Mr. Fukuda awesome."
> 
> And, at those price points, does the extra cost for the boot matter - you are in the "if I have to ask the price, I can't afford it" category anyway.


Yep - that's definitely a risk! But I'd still go. I've never regretted meeting some of the people I really admire in the shoe game - Justin Fitzpatrick, Dean Girling, Phillip Car, etc. - regardless of whether I made a purchase at the time.

And regrettably, I do have to ask the price - so I guess I can't afford it. $500 to $1000 beyond St. Crispin's prices is definitely out there for me. But who knows - maybe at some point down the road?


----------



## Fading Fast

RogerP said:


> Yep - that's definitely a risk! But I'd still go. I've never regretted meeting some of the people I really admire in the shoe game - Justin Fitzpatrick, Dean Girling, Phillip Car, etc. - regardless of whether I made a purchase at the time.
> 
> And regrettably, I do have to ask the price - so I guess I can't afford it. $500 to $1000 beyond St. Crispin's prices is definitely out there for me. But who knows - maybe at some point down the road?


I worked in a Private Bank for years (working in one and being a client of one are two very different things) and one thing I learned is that 99% of those who don't have to asked how much somethings costs still do (and are not shy about negotiating the price down). The expression is just that - an expression to exaggerate a point - as, like you, no sane person buys sometime without knowing how much it costs.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I worked in a Private Bank for years (working in one and being a client of one are two very different things) and one thing I learned is that 99% of those who don't have to asked how much somethings costs still do (and are not shy about negotiating the price down). The expression is just that - an expression to exaggerate a point - as, like you, no sane person buys sometime without knowing how much it costs.


I've noticed something both interesting and odd about two very different socio-economic classes; old money, and the working poor. And it is this, neither tends to be obsessed with wealth. Old money has always had it, and always expects to, so it's never been much of a concern. And the working poor accept that they'll likely never possess it, so it's also not a concern.

Old money is very different from the wealth obsessed nouveau riche arrivestes we see typified by those now so often in the news. It's wealth many generations deep like a mighty underground stream - deep, swift and never ending. And many regard many of the behaviors that surround us with bemused distaste. But as you suggest, they are very likely to drive an older, inexpensive auto, pay attention to the cost of their phone bill, and not tip too lavishly at a restaurant, if at all.

The working poor *are* obsessed with money, but less commonly with wealth. Money means being able to feed yourself and family, go to the doctor and pay your rent. With maybe enough left over for satellite TV and a beer. Sure, you'd like to be rich, but you look around at your neighborhood, your family and your life, and it's not really something you really ever expect to happen.

You bet there are exceptions within both groups, but I've known enough from each to feel fairly confident of these generalizations.


----------



## eagle2250

^^
Interestingly I can tell you, from personal experience, a person can grow up dirt poor and through hard word and arguably some degree of self sacrifice, climb the social economic ladder to mid to upper middle class, yet still maintain that "dirt poor" perspective on financial management throughout their lives. 

Though I might not have to do so, I still live paycheck to paycheck; the first check I write every month is to the church and the second is to our emergency fund and the rest goes to funding our life style; I can't recall ever keeping a car/truck less than a decade and we have always lived in a house that might have been less than we could afford, but we seem to have been happy; and finally everything is bought on a cash basis...the only exceptions being purchases with deferred interest and in those cases the accounts are paid off before any interest becomes due! 

My kids tell me I am tighter than two coats of paint and others accuse me of jumping in and out of windows to save wear and tear on the door hinges in the house. It seems regardless of the amount of cash flow coming in, I will always expect bankruptcy and personal disaster to be looming just around the corner. I guess that is just the way it's going to be? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> Interestingly I can tell you, from personal experience, a person can grow up dirt poor and through hard word and arguably some degree of self sacrifice, climb the social economic ladder to mid to upper middle class, yet still maintain that "dirt poor" perspective on financial management throughout their lives.
> 
> Though I might not have to do so, I still live paycheck to paycheck; the first check I write every month is to the church and the second is to our emergency fund and the rest goes to funding our life style; I can't recall ever keeping a car/truck less than a decade and we have always lived in a house that might have been less than we could afford, but we seem to have been happy; and finally everything is bought on a cash basis...the only exceptions being purchases with deferred interest and in those cases the accounts are paid off before any interest becomes due!
> 
> My kids tell me I am tighter than two coats of paint and others accuse me of jumping in and out of windows to save wear and tear on the door hinges in the house. It seems regardless of the amount of cash flow coming in, I will always expect bankruptcy and personal disaster to be looming just around the corner. I guess that is just the way it's going to be? :icon_scratch:


Like many our age, my parents began marriage during the Great Depression. The depression ended, but habits acquired didn't. As a boy, lunches went to school with me in a brown paper bag. And the bag was returned each evening for reuse!


----------



## Flanderian

Kiyo Uda -


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Kiyo Uda -
> 
> View attachment 24729


Who is left in Japan to do the mundane things like fight fires, cure the sick, till the soil and educate the young with every single person employed making the world's perfect shoe?


----------



## StephenRG

Fading Fast said:


> Who is left in Japan to do the mundane things like fight fires, cure the sick, till the soil and educate the young with every single person employed making the world's perfect shoe?


The shoes are made by specially trained _yosei_ - do you think that mere mortals could be assigned such labours?

(I had to look the word up - Japanese folklore is not at my fingertips unless I'm at a keyboard...)


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei does monks:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Yohei does monks:


Fukuda does a beautiful job with everything!

I'm not as wild about double monks as many, but he makes some of the nicest I've seen. Nothing wrong with double monks, except I find single monks significantly more appealing.


----------



## Flanderian

TYE Shoemaker chukka in an exotic hide. Think it's reptile, but I'm not sure.


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei longwing Derby:


----------



## Fading Fast

StephenRG said:


> Yohei longwing Derby:


I've read that the uber wealthy have copies of its jewelry made for wearing so that it can keep the originals tucked away in a safe. That always seemed odd to me (why have it at all if you can't enjoy wearing it?), but I think I now get it as I'd need a less-expensive copy of these made for wearing while Yohei's original pair sits comfortably safe in a vault deposit box.


----------



## cloth_guy5

Flanderian said:


> TYE Shoemaker chukka in an exotic hide. Think it's reptile, but I'm not sure.
> 
> View attachment 25088


@Flanderian,

Hi! From the photo, it looks like Caiman belly. Have a great day!


----------



## Flanderian

cloth_guy5 said:


> @Flanderian,
> 
> Hi! From the photo, it looks like caiman belly. Have a great day!


Thanks for the ID!


----------



## StephenRG

cloth_guy5 said:


> Hi! From the photo, it looks like caiman belly.


Caiman Belly is a good name for a pool hustler.


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Anyone have a pic of a Fukada shoe without a chisel toe?


----------



## cloth_guy5

StephenRG said:


> Caiman Belly is a good name for a pool hustler.


@StephenRG,

Or someone who makes their living at the sport book! 

As a fun bit of info though, Caiman seems to be denigrated quite a bit in favor of American alligator. However, I have boots in both and find Caiman to actually be quite satisfactory for the price point. Have a great day!


----------



## Flanderian

Hebrew Barrister said:


> Anyone have a pic of a Fukada shoe without a chisel toe?


All of Yukuda's shoes are sleek. And whether one is considered a chisel toe may be as much an issue of degree as kind. If you go back through the photos in this thread, I think you'll find some that I would not consider chisel toes. And since he makes bespoke, I'm sure he can incorporate his client's preferences into the shoes they commission.

Here are some I've picked off at random. See what you think.


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei with patination by Floriwonne:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Yohei with patination by Floriwonne:


Gorgeous!


----------



## Flanderian

When is a Japanese shoe not a Japanese shoe? When it's made in Italy! 

You may call it succotash, but it's still corn and lima beans.

Perticone; made in Italy by Seiichi Yoshimoto. Arigato!


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Flanderian said:


> When is a Japanese shoe not a Japanese shoe? When it's made in Italy!
> 
> You may call it succotash, but it's still corn and lima beans.
> 
> Perticone; made in Italy by Seiichi Yoshimoto. Arigato!
> 
> View attachment 25273


I'm curious. Is it welted or blake?


----------



## Flanderian

Hebrew Barrister said:


> I'm curious. Is it welted or blake?


I don't know, but most of the shoes in this range of quality are hand-welted.

https://shoegazing.se/english/2015/08/15/guide-methods-of-shoe-construction/


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Flanderian said:


> I don't know, but most of the shoes in this range of quality are hand-welted.
> 
> https://shoegazing.se/english/2015/08/15/guide-methods-of-shoe-construction/


Ah. I was just wondering because of the Italian love for blake stitching. I figured Italian trained bespoke makers might often do a hand stitched blake.


----------



## Flanderian

Hebrew Barrister said:


> Ah. I was just wondering because of the Italian love for blake stitching. I figured Italian trained bespoke makers might often do a hand stitched blake.


My understanding is that Blake construction is usually used on less costly mass market footwear. I know a variety of construction methods are used in Italy, including Blake-rapid. Both Blake-rapid and hand welting offer an appearance similar to Blake construction.


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei


----------



## StephenRG

And another Yohei (he posted twice on his FB page yesterday...)


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> And another Yohei (he posted twice on his FB page yesterday...)


Beautiful!


----------



## zzdocxx

Only 520 replies so far? Make that 521 . . .


----------



## Fading Fast

StephenRG said:


> And another Yohei (he posted twice on his FB page yesterday...)


Even the stupid cloth to wrap the shoe in the box looks nicer than my real suit fabrics.


----------



## Flanderian

TYE Shoemaker -


----------



## StephenRG

Another Yohei monk:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Another Yohei monk:


Very nice, beautiful execution!


----------



## StephenRG

Eiji Murata. 

__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content


----------



## Flanderian

Re - above, Eiji Murata (Main d'Or) -

https://shoegazing.se/english/2018/05/20/buyers-guide-main-dor/


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> Re - above, Eiji Murata (Main d'Or) -
> 
> https://shoegazing.se/english/2018/05/20/buyers-guide-main-dor/


FWIW I much prefer the rococo appearance of the shoes I posted than the ones commissioned in the article.


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> FWIW I much prefer the rococo appearance of the shoes I posted than the ones commissioned in the article.


They *are* very nice!


----------



## StephenRG

Good little note by Justin FP about the Medallion King - Hiro Yanamigachi

https://www.theshoesnobblog.com/2018/11/the-medallion-king-hiro-yanamigachi.html


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Good little note by Justin FP about the Medallion King - Hiro Yanamigachi
> 
> https://www.theshoesnobblog.com/2018/11/the-medallion-king-hiro-yanamigachi.html


Thanks for the link! Nice article.

Yanamigachi makes some of the most meticulously perfect footwear I've seen. Even more precise and delicate than Fukuda it sometimes seems.


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei Fukuda makes superb footwear. But I've been hoping to see greater variety as most of the images published are for some version of his galosh oxford, undisputedly handsome though they are. And here are two variations on the Adelaide. The minimalist medallion version in brown leather perhaps being most noteworthy.


----------



## Flanderian

Noriyuki Misawa










Way too pointy a loafer for my taste, but exquisite workmanship by TYE Shoemakers.


----------



## StephenRG

A remarkable Fukuda spectator:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> A remarkable Fukuda spectator:


Typical exquisite craftsmanship, and a pleasing interpretation of a classic.


----------



## Flanderian

Masaru Okuyama -










TYE Shoemakers -


----------



## Flanderian

Seiichi Yoshimoto for Peticone -










Yohei does wholecuts -


----------



## John inSC

The spectators are remarkable. I am always careful with my shoes, borderline obsessive — i would be terrified to wear those outside of my home and a carpet flooring. :icon_hailthee:


----------



## eagle2250

^^
My friend, I feel your pain, knowing exactly how you feel! The key seems to be finding the sweet spot...the point at which you are getting the best quality you can afford and at which you will not find yourself unable to wear/use the shoes/boots/garments/ items purchased. Alas, I have found myself on the wrong side of that equation far too many times. :icon_scratch: Of course, even one time is too many!


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> My friend, I feel your pain, knowing exactly how you feel! The key seems to be finding the sweet spot...the point at which you are getting the best quality you can afford and at which you will not find yourself unable to wear/use the shoes/boots/garments/ items purchased. Alas, I have found myself on the wrong side of that equation far too many times. :icon_scratch: Of course, even one time is too many!


I pulled myself in when I realized I wasn't buying a wardrobe but had become the curator of a very small museum of clothing items all in my size.

Since that epiphany moment, like you, I've been paying close attention to the sweet spot of spending just enough that I get very good quality but not spending so much that I'm always finding a reason not to wear the item.

On the other end of the spectrum, it's one of the reasons why I love my Old Navy, J.Crew and similar purchases as they offer (with some careful selecting and buying only on sale) some well-made-for-the-money items that I can ride hard and put away wet without worrying (although, I take pretty good care of all my clothes, even the very inexpensive ones).


----------



## Flanderian

Aki Nishiyama for Ann Bespoke Shoemakers -


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei does ghillies:


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Aki Nishiyama for Ann Bespoke Shoemakers -
> 
> View attachment 26940


It's official, I am in lust again!


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Yohei does ghillies:


Goodness, Master Fukuda is branching out . . . ghillies!!



eagle2250 said:


> It's official, I am in lust again!


:devil: :devil: :devil:


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei jodhpurs:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Yohei jodhpurs:


Wow!

The Stupefyin' Jones of footwear!


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei Chelseas:


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei derby:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Yohei Chelseas:


Without attribution, I still hear these saying loud and clear; *Y0HEI!
*
And though I have an entirely subjective antipathy toward Chelsea boots, he makes even those look good.



StephenRG said:


> Yohei derby:


These? Not my cup of tea.


----------



## momsdoc

The man certainly knows how to take a chisel to the toe box, and carve out art.


----------



## Flanderian

*Steel Cage Death Match!* irate:

Which Jodhpurs?

TYE Shoemakers -










Or, Yohei Fukuda?


----------



## eagle2250

^^
The toe box design of the Yohei Fukuda's give his design the edge in my eye(s). But then, why not one of each? Both are examples of beautiful leather art.


----------



## StephenRG

Adelaide spectators by Yohei:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Adelaide spectators by Yohei:


Wow!

What beautiful shoes, thank you!


----------



## StephenRG

The standard Yohei:


----------



## StephenRG

Your basic Yohei Oxford:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> The standard Yohei:


Lovely color.


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei loafer"


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Yohei loafer"


Beautiful! But I'd find that degree of toe elongation a bit much for me.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Beautiful! But I'd find that degree of toe elongation a bit much for me.


I had the exact same thought: the shoe is incredible - the quality of product and workmanship is obvious - but I don't like the toe box's shape or length.


----------



## StephenRG

_De gustibus_...I particularly like the toe box. Of course, this means that when they go on sale for $$$$, i won't have to kill you two to buy them


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> _De gustibus_...I particularly like the toe box. Of course, this means that when they go on sale for $$$$, i won't have to kill you two to buy them


:beer:


----------



## Flanderian

TYE'ing one on!


----------



## eagle2250

^^
....and who among us can claim the heart to wear that beautiful piece of leather art, knowing it could be subject to inadvertent scuffing!


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei loafers:










It really isn't fair...


----------



## StephenRG

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> ....and who among us can claim the heart to wear that beautiful piece of leather art, knowing it could be subject to inadvertent scuffing!


As I posted a while back:


> My god, you don't _wear_ high end shoes - you keep them in a specially designed mahogany cabinet and bring them out on special occasions to drool over while drinking a glass of 50-year-old Armagnac. You are also allowed to bring them out and moisturise/polish them on Sunday evenings while watching Dexter re-runs. But actually _wearing_ them? One doesn't wear an Ingres or a Holbein. The horror, the horror


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Yohei loafers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It really isn't fair...


Gill shoes!!! :happy:

AKA, airport shoes.


----------



## Flanderian

Eiji Murata -


----------



## StephenRG

Another Yohei:


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei does navy Freudenberg - I may need a GoFundMe:


----------



## StephenRG

Chocolate Adelaide:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Chocolate Adelaide:


Wow!


----------



## StephenRG

I've never seen a monkstrap quite like this by YF:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> I've never seen a monkstrap quite like this by YF:


Interesting design, though perhaps a little busy.

Typical Fukuda intricate detail and superb quality!


----------



## Flanderian

New to me, Kiyo Uda -


----------



## StephenRG

Article: https://howtospendit.ft.com/mens-style/205605-the-elegant-craftsmanship-of-japanese-shoemakers


----------



## Fading Fast

I'm convinced Japan leads the world in the bespoke-shoemaker-to-total-population ratio of any country.


----------



## Tim Correll

Fading Fast said:


> I'm convinced Japan leads the world in the bespoke-shoemaker-to-total-population ratio of any country.


I agree. Too bad the Japanese bespoke shoemakers don't travel like the English ones do.


----------



## StephenRG

Eiji Murata/Main d'Or - these are bloody amazing, though hardly discreet:


----------



## StephenRG

BTW on my monitor they appear dark green but they might be black. I'd hope they're green


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei's got it made in the suede!


----------



## Flanderian

Will Eiji Murata challenge Yohei Fukuda for galosh oxford dominance? 

A slightly more restrained version of one posted earlier, and IMHO, addition by deletion.


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Flanderian said:


> Yohei's got it made in the suede!
> 
> View attachment 29671


Wow at those.


----------



## StephenRG

T Shirakashi:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> T Shirakashi:


Thank you!

Shirakashi makes some remarkably beautiful boots.


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei does Cloud Calf. Yohei Fukuda -


----------



## Flanderian

Wow!

Bespoke, Clematis Keitaro, Clematis Ginza -


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ "Wow!" is right.


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> Wow!
> 
> Bespoke, Clematis Keitaro, Clematis Ginza -


I find myself unsure - I have never liked a cap toe where the cap is so close to the front of the shoe. It looks stunted, somehow.

I believe that historically in Britain this was one sign of a bespoke shoe, but still...


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> I find myself unsure - I have never liked a cap toe where the cap is so close to the front of the shoe. It looks stunted, somehow.
> 
> I believe that historically in Britain this was one sign of a bespoke shoe, but still...


When I first saw this shoe, its shape and finishing reminded me very much of a Henry Maxwell shoe from roughly 100 years ago. And what you find less appealing, is as I would prefer. But in addition to the last and style, the precision of the detail is exquisite!


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> When I first saw this shoe, its shape and finishing reminded me very much of a Henry Maxwell shoe from roughly 100 years ago. And what you find less appealing, is as I would prefer.


OK, I'll stick to being unable to afford shoes by Yohei, while you can choose to be unable to afford shoes by Clematis Keitaro as well 



> But in addition to the last and style, the precision of the detail is exquisite!


Certes.


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> OK, I'll stick to being unable to afford shoes by Yohei, while you can choose to be unable to afford shoes by Clematis Keitaro as well
> 
> Certes.


A solid bargain! I accept!


----------



## Flanderian

Classic full brogue Blucher/derby from TYE Shoemaker. Love the last! -


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> Classic full brogue Blucher/derby from TYE Shoemaker. Love the last! -


Yup - and I love that rosewood colour.


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei - some may quibble about black loafers, of course:


----------



## eagle2250

^^
Visually riveting, for sure! I'm pretty sure I'm in love again. Thank you for sharing that work of leather art.


----------



## Matt S

StephenRG said:


> Yohei - some may quibble about black loafers, of course:


Beautiful shoes! I have never found a good use for black loafers, but these shoes are not loafers. These elegant shoes would be perfect with the most formal of suits. If you prefer to wear something more conservative with a suit, these would also be great with a blue blazer and grey trousers.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Classic full brogue Blucher/derby from TYE Shoemaker. Love the last! -


In a thread of stand-outs, this one stood out just a bit more for me.


----------



## Flanderian

Matt S said:


> Beautiful shoes! I have never found a good use for black loafers, but these shoes are not loafers. These elegant shoes would be perfect with the most formal of suits. If you prefer to wear something more conservative with a suit, these would also be great with a blue blazer and grey trousers.


+1.

Beautiful shoes! Far from the penny loafer, and closer to the evening pump.


----------



## Matt S

Flanderian said:


> +1.
> 
> Beautiful shoes! Far from the penny loafer, and closer to the evening pump.


If you think about the shoe when the top of it is covered by trousers, it resembles an oxford more than anything else. The throat on this shoe is the same as the throat of an oxford. Just instead of the oxford's closed lacing, this shoe has no laces. Instead it has leather-trimmed gussets to hide the elastic.

I'm wearing a similar style of shoe today in a full-brogue variant. My shoe from Crockett & Jones does not have the dramatic waist that this shoe has, but it's the same side-gusset style with the oxford-style throat. I'm wearing it with charcoal flannel trouser and a lighter grey sports coat.


----------



## Flanderian

Matt S said:


> If you think about the shoe when the top of it is covered by trousers, it resembles an oxford more than anything else. The throat on this shoe is the same as the throat of an oxford. Just instead of the oxford's closed lacing, this shoe has no laces. Instead it has leather-trimmed gussets to hide the elastic.
> 
> I'm wearing a similar style of shoe today in a full-brogue variant. My shoe from Crockett & Jones does not have the dramatic waist that this shoe has, but it's the same side-gusset style with the oxford-style throat. I'm wearing it with charcoal flannel trouser and a lighter grey sports coat.


Agreed! My intent was to suggest it's far up the formality spectrum from the rustic loafer. But punched toe aside, it sleekness does remind a bit of an evening pump, but that's attributable as much, or more, to Fukuda's penchant for sleekness than the actual design.


----------



## Fading Fast

Matt S said:


> If you think about the shoe when the top of it is covered by trousers, it resembles an oxford more than anything else. The throat on this shoe is the same as the throat of an oxford. Just instead of the oxford's closed lacing, this shoe has no laces. Instead it has leather-trimmed gussets to hide the elastic.
> 
> I'm wearing a similar style of shoe today in a full-brogue variant. My shoe from Crockett & Jones does not have the dramatic waist that this shoe has, but it's the same side-gusset style with the oxford-style throat. I'm wearing it with charcoal flannel trouser and a lighter grey sports coat.


Matt, hi, if you can snap a pic or two, love to see the shoes and your overall outfit - both sound outstanding and I'd love to see how you worked the two greys.


----------



## Matt S

Fading Fast said:


> Matt, hi, if you can snap a pic or two, love to see the shoes and your overall outfit - both sound outstanding and I'd love to see how you worked the two greys.


For now, here's a photo of my shoe.










The jacket is a mid grey check. It's not a high contrast with the trousers, but it doesn't always need to be.


----------



## Fading Fast

Matt S said:


> For now, here's a photo of my shoe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jacket is a mid grey check. It's not a high contrast with the trousers, but it doesn't always need to be.


Matt - thank you very much.

Those are very cool shoes. I love the, as you said, gussets that hide the elastic.

Understood on the jacket-trousers contrast.


----------



## eagle2250

Matt S said:


> Beautiful shoes! I have never found a good use for black loafers, but these shoes are not loafers. These elegant shoes would be perfect with the most formal of suits. If you prefer to wear something more conservative with a suit, these would also be great with a blue blazer and grey trousers.


I'm afraid that I would never wear those shoes, but rather just look at them and drool!


----------



## StephenRG

Video about Shoji Kawaguchi - I don't think this has been posted before.


----------



## StephenRG

More Yohei:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Video about Shoji Kawaguchi - I don't think this has been posted before.


Very enjoyable!

Thank you!


----------



## Flanderian

Aki Nishiyama for Ann Bespoke Shoes -


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Aki Nishiyama for Ann Bespoke Shoes -
> 
> View attachment 30509


Those boots go way beyond magnificent...I'm in love! :crazy:


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> Those boots go way beyond magnificent...I'm in love! :crazy:


Go ahead, do it!


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei loafers:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Yohei loafers:


Sure they're not Alden? 

Magnificent! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Tim Correll

Flanderian said:


> Sure they're not Alden?
> 
> Magnificent! :icon_cheers:


Those are much better and much nicer than Alden.


----------



## Flanderian

Audi S5 TC said:


> Those are much better and much nicer than Alden.


Hence the wink . . . .


----------



## StephenRG

Balmorals anyone? Yohei:


----------



## Fading Fast

StephenRG said:


> Balmorals anyone? Yohei:


Ralph P, Momsdoc and (maybe) Upper Crust will be grabbing for their credit cards.

Fading Fast will be demanding pics when they arrive so that he can live vicariously through one of those purchases.


----------



## upr_crust

Fading Fast said:


> Ralph P, Momsdoc and (maybe) Upper Crust will be grabbing for their credit cards.
> 
> Fading Fast will be demanding pics when they arrive so that he can live vicariously through one of those purchases.


RogerP (who's RalphP?) or Momsdoc would have to do the honors on this vicarious life experience for you, FF, I fear. I have only tried on Fukuda try-on shoes once, at the Armoury, when Yohei introduces his RTW line, and I didn't find the last entirely sympathetic to my feet. (Elegant - staggeringly - comfortable - not quite.)

I also have a pair of black balmoral boots (from Paul Stuart, several years ago - most likely Grenson Masterpiece, from the nail patterns in the heels) which I wear very rarely, and I don't know if I bought Fukudas, that I would wear those any more than the Stuarts.

Finally, and most importantly, I would like to retain some control over my net worth, which might be seriously damaged by a purchase of such boots.


----------



## Fading Fast

upr_crust said:


> RogerP (who's RalphP?) or Momsdoc would have to do the honors on this vicarious life experience for you, FF, I fear. I have only tried on Fukuda try-on shoes once, at the Armoury, when Yohei introduces his RTW line, and I didn't find the last entirely sympathetic to my feet. (Elegant - staggeringly - comfortable - not quite.)
> 
> I also have a pair of black balmoral boots (from Paul Stuart, several years ago - most likely Grenson Masterpiece, from the nail patterns in the heels) which I wear very rarely, and I don't know if I bought Fukudas, that I would wear those any more than the Stuarts.
> 
> Finally, and most importantly, I would like to retain some control over my net worth, which might be seriously damaged by a purchase of such boots.


Yes, meant Roger P, sorry.

And thank you for the detailed response. As I've learned through painful experience (physical and pocket-book versions), even the nicest and best-made shoes still have to work for your particular foot or they are worthless.

Obviously, the post was a bit tongue-in-cheek; although, I could see one of you guys going for it.


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Balmorals anyone? Yohei:


Remarkable, and a beautiful option for dressy suits, etc.

While these are extraordinarily more refined, in looking at these I am struck by how much they remind me of photos I've seen of my grandfather wearing hightop oxfords. Born in 1868, he never deviated from black hightop oxfords, going so far as to say that any man who wore what is now the common low cut oxford was "questionable."


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## StephenRG

Yohei, H/T Justin F:


----------



## eagle2250

^^
Stunning! They quite literally take one's breath away.


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei does reptiles:


----------



## eagle2250

^^
....and he does them so very well! May we assume that shoe is a slip-on/mock lace-up? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> ....and he does them so very well! May we assume that shoe is a slip-on/mock lace-up? :icon_scratch:


Unbelievably, his work is a notch above most of the other awesome work we see in this thread.


----------



## Flanderian

Steel Cage Death Match! 

Yohei Fukuda vs. TYE Shoemakers?


----------



## eagle2250

^^
I'm inclined to give the edge to Tye Shoemakers, in this instance. :happy:


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ I have to admit, while I like the color/finish of Yohei's better, the stitching looks better on the Tye one.


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Flanderian said:


> Steel Cage Death Match!
> 
> Yohei Fukuda vs. TYE Shoemakers?
> 
> View attachment 31862
> 
> 
> View attachment 31863


Gorgeous. But is anybody's foot actually shaped like that? Looks like a size 15A.


----------



## Flanderian

Hebrew Barrister said:


> Gorgeous. But is anybody's foot actually shaped like that? Looks like a size 15A.


Yes, and, no.

First, the shoe is made on an elongated last. When properly fitted, such lasts hold the foot snugly around the instep and ball of the foot, but leave extra room beyond the toes to offer a longer profile. And a longer profile promotes an appearance that is both longer, and because of proportion, narrower.

And the angle at which the photo is taken is critical to the ultra sleek appearance. You might be surprised that if you can contort your viewing angle of your own foot into the same plane, that from that angle your foot has some surprisingly narrow surfaces, wholly different from your foot when viewed from directly above.

And last, it may well be that the client for this boot did in fact have narrower than average feet, though not necessarily.


----------



## Flanderian

Nice!

By Eiji Murata -


----------



## Flanderian

Made in the suede! Yohei Fukuda does chukkas -


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei does spectators?

Can't tell for certain if the color difference on various parts of the upper is the result of actual differently colored hides being use, or just the product of the patination. In either case, it's a heck of a handsome galosh brogue with Mr. Fukuda's typical meticulous craftsmanship.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Yohei does spectators?
> 
> Can't tell for certain if the color difference on various parts of the upper is the result of actual differently colored hides being use, or just the product of the patination. In either case, it's a heck of a handsome galosh brogue with Mr. Fukuda's typical meticulous craftsmanship.
> 
> View attachment 32627


Holy Smokes! Roger P or Upr must get a pair (notice how well I spend other people's money for them). Kidding aside, I get the crazy pricing, but those are two members (I'm sure we have others) who have the wardrobe and presence to wear them with quiet confidence.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Holy Smokes! Roger P or Upr must get a pair (notice how well I spend other people's money for them). Kidding aside, I get the crazy pricing, but those are two members (I'm sure we have others) who have the wardrobe and presence to wear them with quiet confidence.


And let's order Eagle a pair (On his card!) while we're at it!

:happy:


----------



## eagle2250

^^Uh-Oh! 
But if I were wearing those beauties, I would not be doing so "with quiet confidence," but rather would be shouting out to the masses..."hey, look at my new shoes!" LOL.


----------



## StephenRG

More Yohei reptile:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> More Yohei reptile:


Not my style, but magnificent footwear!


----------



## eagle2250

^^
:icon_scratch::icon_scratch: I really shouldn't, but I just have to ask...who among us has ever seen a blue gator? :crazy:


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> :icon_scratch::icon_scratch: I really shouldn't, but I just have to ask...who among us has ever seen a blue gator? :crazy:


But to be fair, it's hard to say what color they are when you're running away as fast as you can.


----------



## winghus

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> :icon_scratch::icon_scratch: I really shouldn't, but I just have to ask...who among us has ever seen a blue gator? :crazy:


----------



## StephenRG

Andante (Yamaki Yusuke) - lizard skin. Note how the natural crease in the skin lines up with the front seam.


----------



## StephenRG

Atelier Kobayashi:


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei:


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Oh @upr_crust, I believe your next shoe is calling.


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Yohei:


Yohei does monks! :happy:

Perfectly simple!


----------



## StephenRG

Not sure if I'd posted this particular pair of spectators before, but...Yohei:


----------



## RogerP

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> :icon_scratch::icon_scratch: I really shouldn't, but I just have to ask...who among us has ever seen a blue gator? :crazy:


Fair point - but then we likewise haven't seen a blue calf or a horse with a color 8 butt.


----------



## RogerP

StephenRG said:


> Not sure if I'd posted this particular pair of spectators before, but...Yohei:


Holy smokes! :icon_aportnoy::icon_hailthee::icon_cheers:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Not sure if I'd posted this particular pair of spectators before, but...Yohei:


Exquisite spectators! :beer:

For quite a while it seems his best efforts were confined to galosh oxfords, it's pleasing to see the same sure handedness of his art extending to other classic forms.


----------



## StephenRG

Hiro Yanagimachi:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Hiro Yanagimachi:


Beautiful shoes!

He and Yohei's footwear are equally magnificent. 👍


----------



## eagle2250

StephenRG said:


> Hiro Yanagimachi:


I can't help but wonder how much those leather brand tags on the shoe bags adds to the overall cost of the shoes? They certainly don't add to the beauty and/or functionality of the shoes or even the shoe bags themselves! :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> I can't help but wonder how much those leather brand tags on the shoe bags adds to the overall cost of the shoes? They certainly don't add to the beauty and/or functionality of the shoes or even the shoe bags themselves! :icon_scratch:


My guess, it's a rounding error off of a rounding error.


----------



## Flanderian

Aki Nishiyama -


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> Aki Nishiyama -
> 
> View attachment 37392


If only they could do a group MTO for $495!


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> If only they could do a group MTO for $495!


Nice, ain't they!?

Maybe the shoelaces? :icon_scratch:


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei has the blues:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Yohei has the blues:


*OOF!!! *


----------



## Flanderian

T. Shirakashi -


----------



## RogerP

^^^ Next level bal boots.


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> T. Shirakashi -
> 
> View attachment 38001


These would be the perfect answer to several ongoing debates in the "Black Shoes" thread. Sort of a pictorial compromise so to speak!


----------



## Flanderian

RogerP said:


> ^^^ Next level bal boots.


The delicacy and precision of the workmanship are remarkable! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei does chukkas!


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Yohei does chukkas!
> 
> View attachment 38089


Those are indeed eye candy. Are they sporting inset toe taps? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> Those are indeed eye candy. Are they sporting inset toe taps? :icon_scratch:


Sure look like it. I know Fukuda often includes recessed taps strategically in his soles to reduce wear.


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Flanderian said:


> Yohei does chukkas!
> 
> View attachment 38089


One thing I always find odd about his shoes are the shapes. I gather most of his customers are well off Japanese gentleman, who probably have rather differently shaped feet than a gaijin such as myself. But, wow, people actually have people shaped like that?


----------



## Flanderian

Hebrew Barrister said:


> One thing I always find odd about his shoes are the shapes. I gather most of his customers are well off Japanese gentleman, who probably have rather differently shaped feet than a gaijin such as myself. But, wow, people actually have people shaped like that?


I'd suspect many if not most of his customers are westerners. And I think his last shapes aren't as radical as many I've seen. The narrow waist which is one of his hallmarks actually comports with the typical shape of the human foot, though not of most shoes. But it is a traditional characteristic of very fine footwear and can be found among English bespoke going back over most of the 20th Century.

Along with the narrow waist, the Fudkuda chukka has a modestly elongated chisel toe. And, you're right, feet aren't shaped like that. But I have a pair of chukkas on Cheaney's 125 last, and while slightly less radical, they too incorporate a narrow waist and slightly elongated, though round, toe. The narrow waist is comfortable of itself, as it follows and supports the arch of the human foot, The elongated toe doesn't actually fit the shape of the foot, as some of it is empty toe room. Properly designed lasts of this type instead grip the foot around the ball of the foot, where the foot rests securely and comfortably.


----------



## WDG

Would it be fair to say a narrow shoe waist makes the arch support a design element, as opposed to hiding it inside?


----------



## Flanderian

WDG said:


> Would it be fair to say a narrow shoe waist makes the arch support a design element, as opposed to hiding it inside?


I haven't conducted any comprehensive comparisons, but from my experience the narrow waist definitely contributes to properly hugging and supporting that portion of the foot. And if you study how such footwear is constructed, I think one would be hard pressed to suspect otherwise.


----------



## StephenRG

Masaru Okayama - the last will not appeal to everyone, though.


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Masaru Okayama - the last will not appeal to everyone, though.
> 
> View attachment 38804


Correct! His craftsmanship is sublime, but I'm not particularly fond of elongated lasts in general, and I find his extreme. But I'm sure there are many who enjoy them.


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Correct! His craftsmanship is sublime, but I'm not particularly fond of elongated lasts in general, and I find his extreme. But I'm sure there are many who enjoy them.


Indeed, but one must differentiate between looking at or wearing them...they can be kind to the eye, but not to the foot!


----------



## Flanderian

Mighty, mighty Yohei's jodhpurs in museum calf -


----------



## Flanderian

Calling Eagle!!! :amazing:

Yohei does Chelsea's!


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> Calling Eagle!!! :amazing:
> 
> Yohei does Chelsea's!


Don't leave me out!

Those are impossibly sharp.


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Don't leave me out!
> 
> Those are impossibly sharp.


No offense intended! 

Those and the jodhpurs above are full proof that Yohei's aesthetic has successfully migrated from the galosh oxford to demi-boots. Eagle came to mind (As anyone with a footwear wardrobe larger than my abode must!) as I recall him being a big Chelsea booster, whereas Chelsea's really don't tickle me.


----------



## Flanderian

Flanderian said:


> Mighty, mighty Yohei's jodhpurs in museum calf -
> 
> View attachment 39024


Another shot of Yohei's jodhpurs in museum calf -


__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content


----------



## mlenecare

Flanderian said:


> Correct! His craftsmanship is sublime, but I'm not particularly fond of elongated lasts in general, and I find his extreme. But I'm sure there are many who enjoy them.


I like the look of many elongated lasts, but alas I'm 5'9" with a size 12 shoe. I tend to look like a clown in many of the more elongated lasts.


----------



## Flanderian

mlenecare said:


> I like the look of many elongated lasts, but alas I'm 5'9" with a size 12 shoe. I tend to look like a clown in many of the more elongated lasts.


Look at the bright side, you could save money for skis!










Though you wouldn't wish to be mistaken for the letter -


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei does Adelaides -


----------



## StephenRG

...and wholecuts:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> ...and wholecuts:


Lovely!


----------



## Flanderian

Spectator shoe heaven! The spectator shoe other spectator shoes wish they were! Forget your elongated lasts, this classic last evocative of '30's and '40's bespoke is sublime. By Hiro Yanagimachi -


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei does suede:


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Spectator shoe heaven! The spectator shoe other spectator shoes wish they were! Forget your elongated lasts, this classic last evocative of '30's and '40's bespoke is sublime. By Hiro Yanagimachi -
> 
> View attachment 39191


Those shoes deserve a better life than I could give them.


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Yohei does suede:


And does it beautifully! I'm beginning to wonder about the genesis of the apparent proliferation of models compared to prior work? I suspect a change in manner of production. I read his RTW line was being made by other Japanese makers under his direction, is this abundance an expansion of that?



Fading Fast said:


> Those shoes deserve a better life than I could give them.


I think they deserve to be trackside at Saratoga during the season, and on your feet! :devil:


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> ...I think they deserve to be trackside at Saratoga during the season, and on your feet! :devil:


We haven't been for a few years (but plan to go back, hopefully, soon), but like everywhere, the level of dress took a nosedive the past five or so years that we were there.

It used to be a very mixed crowd of dressed up and not dressed up in the early '00s. But by the mid teens, it was (wild guess) 80+% not dressed up 10% kinda dressed up and 10% dressed up.

I'll admit, we started dressing up less as we felt we were standing out. And even our "dressed down" selves (I might have on a pair of crisp chinos, a collared linen shirt and bucks) were still dressed in the top 20% of the crowd.

As to those awesome spectators, I'll bet I could either buy those shoes or a decent horse in a claiming race.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> We haven't been for a few years (but plan to go back, hopefully, soon), but like everywhere, the level of dress took a nosedive the past five or so years that we were there.
> 
> It used to be a very mixed crowd of dressed up and not dressed up in the early '00s. But by the mid teens, it was (wild guess) 80+% not dressed up 10% kinda dressed up and 10% dressed up.
> 
> I'll admit, we started dressing up less as we felt we were standing out. And even our "dressed down" selves (I might have on a pair of crisp chinos, a collared linen shirt and bucks) were still dressed in the top 20% of the crowd.
> 
> As to those awesome spectators, I'll bet I could either buy those shoes or a decent horse in a claiming race.


It's a problem everywhere. As a fellow who had to dress for effect when in business, I'm sensitive to trying not to appear jarring in my clothing amongst the masses. But at least half the time will still elect to wear what I want anyway, along with a pleasant demeanor.

I suspect the horse might be less!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> It's a problem everywhere. As a fellow who had to dress for effect when in business, I'm sensitive to trying not to appear jarring in my clothing amongst the masses. But at least half the time will still elect to wear what I want anyway, along with a pleasant demeanor.
> 
> I suspect the horse might be less!


Agreed, it is a challenge as we like not standing out.

I haven't put on a suit or tie in over six months as. even at the few in-person biz meetings I have, almost no-one dresses up and (as mentioned before) I've been asked not to dress up for them or it's been hinted at.

It's just possible that I will go through all of 2020 without wearing a suit or tie once.

There is a wedding on the horizon for this year, so maybe I will, but we'll see.

And you are probably right about the cost of the horse vis-a-vis the shoes.


----------



## RogerP

Fading Fast said:


> *Agreed, it is a challenge as we like not standing out.*
> 
> I haven't put on a suit or tie in over six months as. even at the few in-person biz meetings I have, almost no-one dresses up and (as mentioned before) I've been asked not to dress up for them or it's been hinted at.
> 
> It's just possible that I will go through all of 2020 without wearing a suit or tie once.
> 
> There is a wedding on the horizon for this year, so maybe I will, but we'll see.
> 
> And you are probably right about the cost of the horse vis-a-vis the shoes.


Within the confines of my office, the standard of dress has plummeted to such depths that simply consistently dressing well - even absent any elements which remotely approach flamboyant dandyism - makes standing out an inevitability.

Fortunately, I am at an age and stage where I needn't worry too very much about being perceived as overdressed by the terminally under-dressed.

Now, I'm not dealing with what you describe - where you've been asked (presumably by someone with the right to ask) _not_ to dress beyond a certain level. You have my sympathy.


----------



## Fading Fast

RogerP said:


> Within the confines of my office, the standard of dress has plummeted to such depths that simply consistently dressing well - even absent any elements which remotely approach flamboyant dandyism - makes standing out an inevitability.
> 
> Fortunately, I am at an age and stage where I needn't worry too very much about being perceived as overdressed by the terminally under-dressed.
> 
> Now, I'm not dealing with what you describe - where you've been asked (presumably by someone with the right to ask) _not_ to dress beyond a certain level. You have my sympathy.


It's all kinda odd, but fine too. I work for myself (in finance) and at the few firms that I go in person to visit (most is done over the web or phone today), I'm the client, they are a client or it's just a biz relationship. The message some have sent has never been a "don't wear" thing - it's more a "we are trying to create this atmosphere" thing (sotto voce, we need to compete with the tech industry for young people and they like to dress [very] casual), so I get the point.

Also, while I am not trying to act younger than I am, I am also not trying to stamp myself as outdated - so I try to find a happy medium for my age. All this is just me saying that the clothing thing isn't terrible or coming from a bad place, it's just the push and pull of our changing culture playing out in real time.

Me, I wish it was the Ivy Era for dress, but I have found that the world is terrible at bending to my will, so I just go with the flow in a way that feels authentic to me. I'm meeting a friend / colleague for a half-biz / half-fun lunch tomorrow and I'll wear (everything in a modern cut, slim not skinny) chinos, OCBD shirt, Shetland sweater and a small-pattered herringbone tweed sport coat. The funny thing is that it's pretty much my favorite outfit to wear, but when I started in the business in the '80s, it was way too casual for anything business, but now, in many cases, it's pretty close to that happy middle. So, silver lining and all.

Loved your WAYWT post today - really nice looking outfit you put together.


----------



## StephenRG

FWIW I have no concerns about being overdressed ever since I once had to go to a casual party directly from the office where I was besuited. I received a very gratifying response from the ladies. But you do have to wear your suit as though you don't care.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Also, while I am not trying to act younger than I am, I am also not trying to stamp myself as outdated - so I try to find a happy medium for my age.


Ach, meine kinder! 

So, that's the problem! You've yet to embrace your Geezertude! 

Once you've achieved Geezertude, it all becomes very simple, you wear whatever the h**l you feel like wearing!

irate:

_"Geezers get to wear as many colors and patterns as they wish, their families only happy that they can still dress themselves, and have not yet soiled their trousers!"_


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Ach, meine kinder!
> 
> So, that's the problem! You've yet to embrace your Geezertude!
> 
> Once you've achieved Geezertude, it all becomes very simple, you wear whatever the h**l you feel like wearing!
> 
> irate:
> 
> _"Geezers get to wear as many colors and patterns as they wish, their families only happy that they can still dress themselves, and have not yet soiled their trousers!"_
> 
> View attachment 39247


I've decided to "expand" the definition of middle age to, at least, include myself at 55. My guess, I'll keep expanding it for a few more years. 

While that ⇧ pick might be a bit much, some people can pull off three and four patterns and colors in an outfit. I worked with a young guy at my last company who had that ability - he just had a sense of what worked for him and how to do it and he'd regular have three or four patterns and colors in one outfit and, darn it, it worked for him.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I've decided to "expand" the definition of middle age to, at least, include myself at 55. My guess, I'll keep expanding it for a few more years.


Or indefinitely, if you prefer! 👍 Age is largely a state of mind. Though my wife claims it is circular, and that I've returned to its beginning. :crazy:


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Ach, meine kinder!
> 
> So, that's the problem! You've yet to embrace your Geezertude!
> 
> Once you've achieved Geezertude, it all becomes very simple, you wear whatever the h**l you feel like wearing!
> 
> irate:
> 
> _"Geezers get to wear as many colors and patterns as they wish, their families only happy that they can still dress themselves, and have not yet soiled their trousers!"_
> 
> View attachment 39247


While I wholly agree with your final conclusions regarding the matter under discussion, in this instance I must tell you, should I ever attempt to leave the house looking like that, I can only hope that my wife or perhaps one of the kids will put me in a home or assign me a keeper that/who might prevent me from ever again embarrassing myself like that! This is one more good reason for me to limit the dressing options available to me in my closet. LOL.


----------



## StephenRG

A Yohei chukka:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> A Yohei chukka:


Ah, back on topic, and gorgeous! :icon_cheers:


----------



## StephenRG

And a Yohei loafer - lizard, I think.


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> And a Yohei loafer - lizard, I think.


Wow! Gorgeous and right up my ally!

Time to raid the IRA!?


----------



## Flanderian

Mighty, mighty Yohei!










AND -

Yohei creates the button-down shoe -


----------



## StephenRG

All Yohei, all the time:


----------



## StephenRG

And more and more and more...house style but I've not seen it in this colour, IIRC:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> And more and more and more...house style but I've not seen it in this colour, IIRC:


Very nice handling of the patina, IMHO!

Typical immaculate workmanship. This house style is quietly magnificent. Having seen it on the hoof, it doesn't jump out as unusual, just as a very handsome and elegantly graceful oxford.


----------



## Flanderian

Yuigo Hayano -


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Yuigo Hayano -
> 
> View attachment 39613


I've got both Alden and AE grained hide wingtips, but frankly, in terms of visual appeal, neither can compete with those you have pictured above. I think I may once again be in lust! Thanks for sharing those beauties with us.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> I've got both Alden and AE grained hide wingtips, but frankly, in terms of visual appeal, neither can compete with those you have pictured above. I think I may once again be in lust! Thanks for sharing those beauties with us.


Quite welcome!

Frankly, I thought about our shared fondness for grained hides when posting this, as the shoe on the right has one of the nicest I've seen. The whole shoe is magnificent - exquisite last! :icon_hailthee:


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei keeping it simple:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Yohei keeping it simple:


Not a preferred style, but beautifully done as always.

I think my difficulty with 2 and 3 eyelet sleek derby/bluchers lies in this variety being highly fashionable among cheap makes like Thom McAn in the late '50s - early '60's.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Flanderian said:


> Not a preferred style, but beautifully done as always.
> 
> I think my difficulty with 2 and 3 eyelet sleek derby/bluchers lies in this variety being highly fashionable among cheap makes like Thom McAn in the late '50s - early '60's.


I would probably throw in Regal shoes though a bit pricier than McAn. 
If I recall they had a shop on 6th. corner of 35th. or 36th in Manhattan.


----------



## Flanderian

EclecticSr. said:


> I would probably throw in Regal shoes though a bit pricier than McAn.
> If I recall they had a shop on 6th. corner of 35th. or 36th in Manhattan.


Too upscale for *my* family! :laughing:


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Mighty, mighty Yohei!


If for some insane reason, I liquidated my savings and bought these stunning shoes, after admiring them all day and into the night when they arrived, I'd put them in my closet and go to bed dreaming of my beautiful new shoes.

In the morning, they'd be gone: A thief, how did he know, he did he get in, how?

But no, a simpler and more humbling explanation.

After having taken stock of their new owner and his wardrobe up close (my mistake for putting them in the closet with my plebeian clothes), these regal shoes - made of the finest materials and handcrafted by a skilled artisan - took matters into their own hands and walked out.

That's it - they just up and left on their own. How do I know? Despondent, I looked out my window and saw them walk into a taxi and a friend said he heard them give the driver the address of the store where I bought them.

Later that day, depressed and not having eaten, I got out of bed and wandered toward the kitchen, on my little mail table, I saw an envelope with just my name on it.

Confused as to how it got there - it wasn't there when I went to bed the night before - I broke the wax seal (I know, I was impressed too - the paper stock was incredibly rich and thick also) and inside was a stack of crisp, new $100 bills equals to the price of the shoes plus an extra $300. The enclosed note read:

_We both know this wasn't going to work out as we come from different worlds. Please use the extra money to buy yourself a pair of Allen Edmonds factory seconds - you'll be happier in the end. _​
A class act through and through and a lesson to me about reaching above my station.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> If for some insane reason, I liquidated my savings and bought these stunning shoes, after admiring them all day and into the night when they arrived, I'd put them in my closet and go to bed dreaming of my beautiful new shoes.
> 
> In the morning, they'd be gone: A thief, how did he know, he did he get in, how?
> 
> But no, a simpler and more humbling explanation.
> 
> After having taken stock of their new owner and his wardrobe up close (my mistake for putting them in the closet with my plebeian clothes), these regal shoes - made of the finest materials and handcrafted by a skilled artisan - took matters into their own hands and walked out.
> 
> That's it - they just up and left on their own. How do I know? Despondent, I looked out my window and saw them walk into a taxi and a friend said he heard them give the driver the address of the store where I bought them.
> 
> Later that day, depressed and not having eaten, I got out of bed and wandered toward the kitchen, on my little mail table, I saw an envelope with just my name on it.
> 
> Confused as to how it got there - it wasn't there when I went to bed the night before - I broke the wax seal (I know, I was impressed too - the paper stock was incredibly rich and thick also) and inside was a stack of crisp, new $100 bills equals to the price of the shoes plus an extra $300. The enclosed note read:
> 
> _We both know this wasn't going to work out as we come from different worlds. Please use the extra money to buy yourself a pair of Allen Edmonds factory seconds - you'll be happier in the end. _​
> A class act through and through and a lesson to me about reaching above my station.


Absolutely delightful!!! :icon_hailthee:

:laughing: :laughing: :laughing:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> If for some insane reason, I liquidated my savings and bought these stunning shoes, after admiring them all day and into the night when they arrived, I'd put them in my closet and go to bed dreaming of my beautiful new shoes.
> 
> In the morning, they'd be gone: A thief, how did he know, he did he get in, how?
> 
> But no, a simpler and more humbling explanation.
> 
> After having taken stock of their new owner and his wardrobe up close (my mistake for putting them in the closet with my plebeian clothes), these regal shoes - made of the finest materials and handcrafted by a skilled artisan - took matters into their own hands and walked out.
> 
> That's it - they just up and left on their own. How do I know? Despondent, I looked out my window and saw them walk into a taxi and a friend said he heard them give the driver the address of the store where I bought them.
> 
> Later that day, depressed and not having eaten, I got out of bed and wandered toward the kitchen, on my little mail table, I saw an envelope with just my name on it.
> 
> Confused as to how it got there - it wasn't there when I went to bed the night before - I broke the wax seal (I know, I was impressed too - the paper stock was incredibly rich and thick also) and inside was a stack of crisp, new $100 bills equals to the price of the shoes plus an extra $300. The enclosed note read:
> 
> _We both know this wasn't going to work out as we come from different worlds. Please use the extra money to buy yourself a pair of Allen Edmonds factory seconds - you'll be happier in the end. _​
> A class act through and through and a lesson to me about reaching above my station.


You inspire me!


----------



## Flanderian

Nice chukka by T. Shirakashi Bootmaker -


----------



## StephenRG

An interview with the great man:

https://www.permanentstyle.com/2020/03/yohei-fukuda-bespoke-shoes-the-style-and-shop-today.html


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> If for some insane reason, I liquidated my savings and bought these stunning shoes, after admiring them all day and into the night when they arrived, I'd put them in my closet and go to bed dreaming of my beautiful new shoes.
> 
> In the morning, they'd be gone: A thief, how did he know, he did he get in, how?
> 
> But no, a simpler and more humbling explanation.
> 
> After having taken stock of their new owner and his wardrobe up close (my mistake for putting them in the closet with my plebeian clothes), these regal shoes - made of the finest materials and handcrafted by a skilled artisan - took matters into their own hands and walked out.
> 
> That's it - they just up and left on their own. How do I know? Despondent, I looked out my window and saw them walk into a taxi and a friend said he heard them give the driver the address of the store where I bought them.
> 
> Later that day, depressed and not having eaten, I got out of bed and wandered toward the kitchen, on my little mail table, I saw an envelope with just my name on it.
> 
> Confused as to how it got there - it wasn't there when I went to bed the night before - I broke the wax seal (I know, I was impressed too - the paper stock was incredibly rich and thick also) and inside was a stack of crisp, new $100 bills equals to the price of the shoes plus an extra $300. The enclosed note read:
> 
> _We both know this wasn't going to work out as we come from different worlds. Please use the extra money to buy yourself a pair of Allen Edmonds factory seconds - you'll be happier in the end. _​
> A class act through and through and a lesson to me about reaching above my station.


Twisting Oliver: more posts please.
Not necessarily about shoes...gawd please no enough about shoes already...more gorgeously written stuff like that, about anything.


----------



## StephenRG

Just another pair of boring old suede loafers by Yohei


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Just another pair of boring old suede loafers by Yohei


My beloved pennies!!! :loveyou:


----------



## Flanderian

I think one would be hard pressed to find a more elegant loafer! TYE Shoemakers -


----------



## Flanderian

Spigola by Koji Suzuki -


----------



## Flanderian

Eji Murata bespoke -


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Eji Murata bespoke -
> 
> View attachment 43083


Rather stunning, for sure. I used to be able to turn out a spit shine that looked almost that good and was not nearly that expensive!


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Yohei:


Nice! :loveyou:

Yohei's aesthetic has certainly fleshed out and expanded. Sure-handed might be a term I'd use.


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei now has a new website. Please be sure you have a napkin or towel under your chin to mop up any drool.

https://yoheifukuda.com/


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Yohei now has a new website. Please be sure you have a napkin or towel under your chin to mop up any drool.
> 
> https://yoheifukuda.com/


Beautiful website! Thanks!

And at only $2,250 a pair, a steal. 

Guess I'll have to visit my financier, Big Joey.


----------



## upr_crust

Flanderian said:


> Beautiful website! Thanks!
> 
> And at only $2,250 a pair, a steal.
> 
> Guess I'll have to visit my financier, Big Joey.


If it is of any consequence, they are the same price at The Armoury in NYC, where I saw examples of Fukuda's RTW offerings, which were very handsome indeed, though I was less taken with the fit of his try-on shoes - his last and my feet were not entirely in agreement.


----------



## Flanderian

upr_crust said:


> If it is of any consequence, they are the same price at The Armoury in NYC, where I saw examples of Fukuda's RTW offerings, which were very handsome indeed, though I was less taken with the fit of his try-on shoes - his last and my feet were not entirely in agreement.


While Yohei ins't in my future, it interests me to hear your report of the try on's. Sizing and lasts are bedeviling 'till it's worked out.


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei Adelaide:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Yohei Adelaide:


Typically superb!


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei derby:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Yohei derby:


As beautifully made and proportioned as his other work, Though purely from subjective preferences, I'm not fond of two and three eyelet derby/bluchers, and I find these two hides combined in this fashion less than the sum of their parts.


----------



## StephenRG

Andante shoemakers H/T JF


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Andante shoemakers H/T JF


Hmm . . . ? :icon_scratch:


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> Hmm . . . ? :icon_scratch:


Justin's view was that it wouldn't work with calf, because the broguing would be too conspicuous and over the top, but in suede, it has a certain flair. I am inclined to agree.


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Justin's view was that it wouldn't work with calf, because the broguing would be too conspicuous and over the top, but in suede, it has a certain flair. I am inclined to agree.


Think I'd warm up to it more if they omitted the broguing on the instep. Don't know how I feel about the grey suede, but that's likely just me.


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei:


----------



## Flanderian

TYE Shoemakers -


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Yohei:


----------



## Flanderian

T. Shirakashi Bootmaker -


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> T. Shirakashi Bootmaker -
> 
> View attachment 44689


A rather fine looking pair of high tops, for sure, but mark my words,,,before long, new purchasers are going to wish the top four eyelets of those nine eyelet lacing throats were lacing hooks. Just sayin.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> A rather fine looking pair of high tops, for sure, but mark my words,,,before long, new purchasers are going to wish the top four eyelets of those nine eyelet lacing throats were lacing hooks. Just sayin.


Boots for a man with plenty of time on his hands?


----------



## StephenRG

Takayama:


----------



## StephenRG

Takayama as well.










I wouldn't wear these myself, but I've never seen such graining - with matching laces, yet.


----------



## StephenRG

Hiro Yanagimachi:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Hiro Yanagimachi:
> 
> View attachment 45134


Boy! That guy makes nice shoes! :icon_cheers:


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Yohei:


Wow!

That's something quite different. And remarkable! 👍

Can't tell the upper material. Suede? Silk?


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> Wow!
> 
> That's something quite different. And remarkable! 👍
> 
> Can't tell the upper material. Suede? Silk?


Suede


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Suede


Very impressive! Thanks. 👍


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Yohei:


My goodness, Yohei's work is really becoming very varied. Typically beautiful and elegantly exectued.

In no way is this meant to denigrate this shoe, as it's in a whole different realm, but the similarity to a pair of shoes I've had more than 30 years is inescapable. Same color suede, style and similar lines. Mine're are on from J M Weston, and the suede of the upper is far more rustic/crude.

Frankly, I chose the ones I did because a similar style they were selling in a more refined hide was around $150 more, and Weston was costly, even back then. They're the only Weston shoes I've tried and the quality, at least then, was exceptional. Light weight, on an unusually svelte last, but strong as a bank, they're very carefully made with a Goodyear welted sole so closely sewn and trimmed to the upper, you expect it to be Blake, or even hand-welted like Yohei's.

But as I wrote, this in no way is intended to suggest they're the equal of Mr. Fukuda's work, I'm simply struck by the similarity of appearance.


----------



## StephenRG

Masaru Okuyama - tbh I find them a little precious but remarkable nonetheless:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Masaru Okuyama - tbh I find them a little precious but remarkable nonetheless:
> 
> View attachment 46170


They are.

Beautiful, and a remarkable hide! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Gorgeous Adelaide variant from the inimitable Yohei Fukuda -


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei Fukuda builds beautiful, exquisitely made shoes as regularly as the sun rises in the east. Those below particularly intrigue me for being spectators that employ more subtle contrasts between the hides used. And he revisits themes he has long employed such as the galosh oxford to create a shoe that is both original, yet entirely in harmony.


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei:


----------



## StephenRG

A Yohei Chelsea.


----------



## StephenRG

Austere Yohei:


----------



## StephenRG

Another Yohei spectator:


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei:


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei keeps it simple:


----------



## StephenRG

And he keeps it even simpler - seamless wholecut:


----------



## StephenRG

Article about another Japanese bespoke shoemaker - Masayuki Kaneko:
https://www.theshoesnobblog.com/202...e2HEGV31tPuzkBIA_gxRnhyOWHC4IwzEuQOlGkCl-hVMQ

A half-Adelaide (and if there wasn't such a thing before, there is now!)


----------



## StephenRG

Hiro Yanagimachi:


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei:


----------



## drpeter

Amazing stuff. I have read in a couple of blogs (including Shoegazing, I think) that Japanese shoes are really top-notch now, especially from the skilled craftsmen like Yohei: Brogues, captoes, wholecuts, longwings and so on. I think the look is very English, though, and when I saw these images, I immediately thought of the Crockett & Jones style, with a bit of flare in the toebox and a pronounced waist.

I must add that this is the first time I've seen a leather teddy bear, though, LOL. Very cute.


----------



## StephenRG

A name I'd not come across before - Siroeno Yosiu. H/T Karl Chu from Ascot Shoes:


----------



## StephenRG

Oriental Shoemaker:


----------



## Oldsarge

I have no idea who makes these but OMG!


----------



## WDG

Oldsarge said:


> I have no idea who makes these but OMG!
> 
> View attachment 55472


I could be mistaken, but those look like Taft Saints, to me: 








https://taftclothing.com/products/the-saint-boot-in-espresso
They also have an interesting jodhpur in weave.
(I've become a bit of a sucker for weaves, the last two or three years.)








https://taftclothing.com/products/the-dylan-boot-in-woven


----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> I have no idea who makes these but OMG!
> 
> View attachment 55472


Visually arresting, for sure, but they do have their drawbacks. I had a pair of low quarters, with woven vamps for several years, but maintaining them was more complicated than I cared to deal with...and the shoes eventually made that long sad walk to a local Goodwill Store!


----------



## StephenRG

Another Yohei:


----------



## bigbobbailey

Flanderian said:


> I think they might be. A bold question or perhaps only a foolish one. But superlatives beg comparisons. First I haven't personally traded with all the world's shoemakers, or even all of those in Japan. So I'm going strictly by eyeball scrutiny of those to which I've been exposed. And foolish also because of the proper esteem held for the many fine makes of Northamtonshire, Italy, Spain and eastern Europe.
> 
> And what do I mean by best? Because it can quite properly mean different things to different people. My definition is simple, the most beautiful shoes, of the most careful precision made from exquisite materials. And based solely upon this description, the shoes I'm seeing are not of the best, but among the best *ever!*
> 
> Now should you wish to ask how you may acquire such, it's really simple, all you will need is $3,000+, a round trip 1st class ticket to Japan, and about a year's patience.
> 
> Seiji McCarthy -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TYE Shoemakers -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yohei Fukuda -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the hoof -


I would say definitely the finest shoes are now bespoke made in Japan. When my clients ask for a recommendation I always suggest Shoji Kawaguchi at Marquess shoes in Tokyo. He is a true master of his trade and lives and breathes bespoke shoes. Pure dedication. But I think it's a long waiting time like all things in life it's worth waiting for.


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei:


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Even as a diehard TNSIL in a committed relationship with Alden and Quoddy, I must admit that most of the shoes on this thread are gorgeous.


----------



## Fading Fast

TKI67 said:


> Even as a diehard TNSIL in a committed relationship with Alden and Quoddy, I must admit that most of the shoes on this thread are gorgeous.


Like you, most aren't ones I want to wear (or could afford anyway), but I appreciate their beauty and craftsmanship.


----------



## StephenRG

Fading Fast said:


> Like you, most aren't ones I want to wear (or could afford anyway), but I appreciate their beauty and craftsmanship.


Sometimes it is sufficient to know that such beautiful objects exist!


----------



## Flanderian

Tokyo's Yohei Fukuda's expanding repertoire:

He originally, and IMHIO wisely, focused on a limited number of models, each demonstrating both his svelte aesthetic and immaculate construction. Master of those, I've recently seen footwear attributed to him in a greater range of models, and expanded aesthetics, but all still incorporating the perfection of make, grace and aesthetic balance that I feel are hallmarks of his house.

Notable among them I've come across this monk strap chukka boot which incorporate a less closely trimmed sole for a more robust aesthetic very much in keeping with the nature of the model, but still exhibiting the grace and balance of his other designs.

I've seen similar low boots with straps designated as george boots, but the cut is different, and IMO suits this style very well. I'll leave those more expert to decide whether it should be described a george boot of a chukka, but it looks like a chukka to me.

Could be MTO, bespoke or RTW, as I believe the house of Fukuda offers all those options, though with very limited output.


----------



## Flanderian

T. Shirakashi Bootmaker. Very much like the combination of smooth calf upper and matching grained leather shaft. Subtle.


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> T. Shirakashi Bootmaker. Very much like the combination of smooth calf upper and matching grained leather shaft. Subtle.


And your kind of last, I think!


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> And your kind of last, I think!


It is. From what I've seen Mr. Shirakash has not followed the elongated fashion, favoring a more boot like last, even on a city boot such as this. Remarkable to see the minute detail and perfection even on his larger and most robust boots, they're as precisely put together as a Swiss movement.


----------



## Flanderian

Beautiful, svelte butter fly loafer from Ann Bespoke in luscious chocolate brown suede.


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei Fukuda does george boots in museum calf.










My initial impression was I'd term the style a George boot rather than a chukk due to a longer shaft, but second guessed myself, as most/many so-described boots such as Alden's, is closed by a single strap. So I visited Sanders and Sanders website. Sanders sells uniform shoes that are milspec for the British military, and their name for a boot with a longer shaft like these is a George boot, so that's what I'll term it.


----------



## Flanderian

Some dandy spectators by Seiichi Yoshimoto for Perticone.


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei Chelseas


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Yohei Chelseas


Not generally fond of Chelsea's, but typically outstanding design and execution by Yohei! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

T. Shirakashi Bootmakers do Jodhpor boots.


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> T. Shirakashi Bootmakers do Jodhpor boots.
> 
> View attachment 60521


.....and they do them so very well!


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei double-monks - strongly reminiscent of JL's Chapel.


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Yohei double-monks - strongly reminiscent of JL's Chapel.


I'm not fond of most double monks, but these are exceedingly graceful!


----------



## Flanderian

These shoes were unattributed as to source, specifying only that they are bespoke. And I fully believe they are noting the perfectly kissing apron.

To me the they have the delicacy, grace and precision of a Japanese make, so I'll offer them. I like spectators but find most variations on classic designs less successful than the original. But for me, these are a 10 out of 10.

Love the last shape, the choice of suede and smooth leather hides for textural contrast and shades chosen.


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> I'm not fond of most double monks, but these are exceedingly graceful!


Neither am I. What I like about these, as with the Chapels, are those swept-back straps.


----------



## StephenRG

Masayuki Kaneko (h/t JF)


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Masayuki Kaneko (h/t JF)


Good golly Miss Molly!


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Good golly Miss Molly!


Those are indeed about as handsome as shoe leather gets!


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Masayuki Kaneko (h/t JF)


:icon_scratch: :icon_scratch: :icon_scratch:


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> :icon_scratch: :icon_scratch: :icon_scratch:
> 
> View attachment 61282


Are you saying I should have posted those shoes on the Trad forum?


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Are you saying I should have posted those shoes on the Trad forum?


:laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

No, a bit more like a steam punk vibe.


----------



## Flanderian

Hiro Yanagimachi shell cordovan.


----------



## Flanderian

TYE one on! :fool:

A tasty more formal Adelaide -


----------



## StephenRG

Another Tye shoe:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Another Tye shoe:
> 
> View attachment 64578


TYE has made some of the most elegant and precise shoes I've ever seen. :icon_cheers:


----------



## Flanderian

Masaru Okuyama -


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Hiro Yanagimachi shell cordovan.
> 
> View attachment 61582


Has an Alden meets custom-made-in-Japan vibe.


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Has an Alden meets custom-made-in-Japan vibe.


Eloquently described!

I can not imagine a more perfect execution of apparent intent than achieved in this pair.


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Yohei:
> 
> View attachment 64682


:happy::happy::happy:

Wow! :icon_cheers: Yohei does spectators!


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei -


----------



## Corcovado

These are spectacular and well made shoes, no doubt, but with their pointy styles they must surely extend three or four inches beyond the anterior extent of the wearer's toes. Either that or the customers have only two or three metatarsals.


----------



## Flanderian

Corcovado said:


> These are spectacular and well made shoes, no doubt, but with their pointy styles they must surely extend three or four inches beyond the anterior extent of the wearer's toes. Either that or the customers have only two or three metatarsals.


While I cherish Yohei Fukuda's work for it's precise beauty, my own preferences are for more traditional round toe lasts. Shoes with these elongated lasts are now the fashion norm, and within that aesthetic Mr. Fukuda produces beautiful footwear.

And while he's added superb quality RTW under his name, his origin is in bespoke, and I believe much of what he personally produces is still of that genre. I have only one pair of shoes with an elongated last, and that comparatively modest by comparison, a pair of Cheaney chukkas on their 125 last. And while I think part of the elongated appearance of the shoes here has been enhanced by the photographer's art, from my one experience shoes with elongated lasts are designed to secure the foot differently. I.e., the foot is held securely and comfortably further back from the toe, and little of the toe box is actually filled.

Given Yohei's experience with and obsession for fit, I think it unlikely that his shoes are innately uncomfortable, despite their sleek appearance.


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Yohei:
> 
> View attachment 68057


Hmm . . . . I like green shoes, and I like chukkas, but . . . . :icon_scratch:


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Yohei:


Yohei feelin' blue! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Simply Yohei, simply perfect.

Wear it for any business occasion and be the best dressed man in the room. Nothing extreme, everything balanced and perfectly made.


----------



## Flanderian

Have pennies, will post! A more classic last by Tomoyuki K -


----------



## StephenRG

Yohei RTW:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Yohei RTW:


Outstanding! :icon_cheers:

And a pair of his dress boots for the colder months -


----------



## Flanderian

Jodhpur boots by T. Shirakashi Bootmaker -


----------



## Flanderian

Tie one on! TYE chukkas -


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei does Jodhpurs. And in beautiful museum calf!


----------



## StephenRG

Hiro Yanagimachi:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Hiro Yanagimachi:
> 
> View attachment 84341


WHOA! 

Emerald City meets Clockwork Orange!


----------



## StephenRG

From the front:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> From the front:
> 
> View attachment 84465


----------



## eagle2250

StephenRG said:


> From the front:
> 
> View attachment 84465


They are much more appealing from a frontal view. The backs of the shoes are just way too busy.


----------



## Flanderian

Yohei does spectators. (And how!)


----------



## Tim Correll

Mr Andy Gilchrist, please delete this message? Thank you.


----------



## StephenRG

Message no longer applicable.


----------



## Flanderian

T. Shirakashi Bootmaker -


----------



## StephenRG

The top three places in the World Shoemaking Contest 2022 were Japanese.

#1: Wataru Shimamoto


----------



## StephenRG

#2: Ken Kataoka - and I am suffering from a serious case of WTF?


----------



## StephenRG

#3: Kenjiro Kawashima
OK, he's Japanese but he works in Seoul, so technically his shoes are not made in Japan but so what.


----------



## StephenRG

The article from which I got the photos:





__





Picture special - Top three World Championships in Shoemaking 2022 - Shoegazing.com


Since it will take a while before I'm finished with the huge posts covering all the 30 contestant shoes of the shoemaking world champs, I always do a




shoegazing.com


----------



## Flanderian

Putin wants the #2 shoe.

But the Wataru Shimamoto shoe has your name on it!

Wear that into Justin's shop!


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> Putin wants the #2 shoe.
> 
> But the Wataru Shimamoto shoe has your name on it!
> 
> Wear that into Justin's shop!


Another shot of that #1 shoe - would you not be tempted if it had a blobbier, uh, more rounded, last? :


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## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Another shot of that #1 shoe - would you not be tempted if it had a blobbier, uh, more rounded, last? :
> 
> View attachment 86803


How blobby? As is, I would expect a complimentary pair of ski poles!


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## Flanderian

Yohei does derbies -


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## StephenRG

Yohei does split-toes


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## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Yohei does split-toes
> 
> View attachment 87506


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## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


>


I'd bet if he did a $500 GMTO there'd be at least a couple of takers here


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## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> I'd bet if he did a $500 GMTO there'd be at least a couple of takers here


I have no doubt that there'd be significant interest, but I don't know that this forum any longer has the participation to make a GMTO feasible. I also strongly suspect that $500 might not do the job. Haven't recently investigated Yohei's marketing approach, but last I knew he was doing pure bespoke with his RTW line produced elsewhere in Japan. Either case, cost of production much too high to allow at $500 GMTO.

Lovely thought though! 

While I already possess a shoe museum I'd be very tempted to mount them unworn in a Lucite case with a light upon them!


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## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> I have no doubt that there'd be significant interest, but I don't know that this forum any longer has the participation to make a GMTO feasible. I also strongly suspect that $500 might not do the job. Haven't recently investigated Yohei's marketing approach, but last I knew he was doing pure bespoke with his RTW line produced elsewhere in Japan. Either case, cost of production much too high to allow at $500 GMTO.
> 
> Lovely thought though!
> 
> While I already possess a shoe museum I'd be very tempted to mount them unworn in a Lucite case with a light upon them!


I suspect that a GMTO non-bespoke would be well above $500 - that's Carmina/TLB territory - but I was gently joshing


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## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> I suspect that a GMTO non-bespoke would be well above $500 - that's Carmina/TLB territory - but I was gently joshing


😢 😢 😢


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## drpeter

Flanderian said:


> I have no doubt that there'd be significant interest, but I don't know that this forum any longer has the participation to make a GMTO feasible. I also strongly suspect that $500 might not do the job. Haven't recently investigated Yohei's marketing approach, but last I knew he was doing pure bespoke with his RTW line produced elsewhere in Japan. Either case, cost of production much too high to allow at $500 GMTO.
> 
> Lovely thought though!
> 
> While I already possess a shoe museum I'd be very tempted to mount them unworn in a Lucite case with a light upon them!


I have a friend who has close to 65 bicycles, many of them gorgeous Italian bikes -- Colnago, De Rosa, Bottecchia, Bianchi --, and some of them in boxes still, others put together but never ridden. He usually has one or two in his living room mounted on special wooden stands he made for the express purpose of display. He was also my source for Campagnolo gruppos and componentry back when I was building up frames. The best part is this: He used to ride around on a 1940s vintage BSA, rust in many places, the paint barely there. But it had a special aesthetic appeal, even in that dilapidated condition. In a sense, beauty is to be found in the most unlikely places.


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## eagle2250

drpeter said:


> I have a friend who has close to 65 bicycles, many of them gorgeous Italian bikes -- Colnago, De Rosa, Bottecchia, Bianchi --, and some of them in boxes still, others put together but never ridden. He usually has one or two in his living room mounted on special wooden stands he made for the express purpose of display. He was also my source for Campagnolo gruppos and componentry back when I was building up frames. The best part is this: He used to ride around on a 1940s vintage BSA, rust in many places, the paint barely there. But it had a special aesthetic appeal, even in that dilapidated condition. In a sense, beauty is to be found in the most unlikely places.


Your post above makes me think my man cave may be a more appropriate place for storing my beloved vintage Schwinn S-10 than hanging it in the garage, as I have been doing. Thanks for a great idea.


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## drpeter

eagle2250 said:


> Your post above makes me think my man cave may be a more appropriate place for storing my beloved vintage Schwinn S-10 than hanging it in the garage, as I have been doing. Thanks for a great idea.


Now here is the big question: Will it meet with approval from the Board of Trustees -- actually a single Trustee, Mrs Eagle? Or do you have veto power over man cave decisions, rather like the five permanent members of the UN Security Council?

BTW, one of my treasures is a 1972 Schwinn Paramount P-13, chrome-plated. Splendid bike, incomparable.


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## Flanderian

drpeter said:


> I have a friend who has close to 65 bicycles, many of them gorgeous Italian bikes -- Colnago, De Rosa, Bottecchia, Bianchi --, and some of them in boxes still, others put together but never ridden. He usually has one or two in his living room mounted on special wooden stands he made for the express purpose of display. He was also my source for Campagnolo gruppos and componentry back when I was building up frames. The best part is this: He used to ride around on a 1940s vintage BSA, rust in many places, the paint barely there. But it had a special aesthetic appeal, even in that dilapidated condition. In a sense, beauty is to be found in the most unlikely places.


Cool!


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## StephenRG

A Yohei loafer:


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## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> A Yohei loafer:
> 
> View attachment 88746


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## StephenRG

And Yohei double monks:


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## eagle2250

drpeter said:


> Now here is the big question: Will it meet with approval from the Board of Trustees -- actually a single Trustee, Mrs Eagle? Or do you have veto power over man cave decisions, rather like the five permanent members of the UN Security Council?
> 
> BTW, one of my treasures is a 1972 Schwinn Paramount P-13, chrome-plated. Splendid bike, incomparable.


Ironically the man cave is the one room in the house that I do seem to have veto power over decisions regarding that room. However, along those same lines Mrs Eagle exercises final veto power over decisions regarding the laundry and sewing rooms! LOL.


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## Corcovado

eagle2250 said:


> Ironically the man cave is the one room in the house that I do seem to have veto power over decisions regarding that room. However, along those same lines Mrs Eagle exercises final veto power over decisions regarding the laundry and sewing rooms! LOL.


Happy wife, happy life!


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## Corcovado




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## Flanderian

Corcovado said:


>


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## Flanderian

I'm a grainiac mad for pennies. This shoe from Ann Bespoke is a winner on both counts -


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## StephenRG

Yohei goes green:


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## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Yohei goes green:
> 
> View attachment 90367


Gosh! And rubber soles. 

Beautiful shoes!


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## StephenRG

Yohei does sharkskin - yet I find myself thinking this is something of a misfire. I blame the customer who requested it, but I find it less than the sum of its parts.


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## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Yohei does sharkskin - yet I find myself thinking this is something of a misfire. I blame the customer who requested it, but I find it less than the sum of its parts.
> 
> View attachment 90725


Not my cup of tea but beautifully made, as is all of what I've seen from Yohei.

Interestingly, the grain of this particular sharkskin is almost a doppelganger for that of a pair of pennies I have in shrunken bison.

They look very French to me, and I'm sure that someplace is someone who loves them.


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## StephenRG

Yohei does ghillies:


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## StephenRG

Yohei for grainiacs


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## StephenRG

Yohei:


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