# what's the proper jacket length?



## Untilted (Mar 30, 2006)

Greeting from the other side of the moon (trad forum)!

I recently saw a thread that mentions it's absolutely crucial to have proper jacket length for a short guy. Being 5 feet 7, how long is too long? When my arms and hands are relaxed, my figure tips ususally hit the bottom hem of my jacket or surpass the bottom hem a little. Is that appropriate?


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## A Questionable Gentleman (Jun 16, 2006)

In the back, the jacket should be just long enough to cover the wearer's bum and extend a little below.


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## Andy (Aug 25, 2002)

Untilted:

From the Fit section of the Suit Chapter of The *Encyclopedia of Men's Clothes* (still available!! :icon_smile_big: ):
Long enough to cover your butt, that is the lower curve of your rear with ½ inch to spare. The "cup the fingers" method doesn't really work since some men of equal height have arms that are longer. 

Alternative method: Run a tape measure from the base of the collar to the bottom of the jacket in back. Then make sure that the measurement taken is the same for the measurement from the bottom of the back of the jacket to the floor. ​


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## Untilted (Mar 30, 2006)

thanks a lot guys. My jacket just covers my butt. The cup the finger method actually works for me too because I have a short arm (wear a 32 sleeve).


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## fullgrain (Jan 5, 2007)

I've never been convinced of the cover-the-butt method. This may work for men of average height and average torso-to-leg length, but not everyone. Since more people see you coming than going, I think front balance is more important.

For those of us who are vertically challenged, I think it is particularly important to not have the jacket too long, to avoid the looking like you are wearing your father's suit syndrome.

I use the cup the fingers method as a rough guide (a jacket extending to the tips of my fingers would be nearly two inches longer), but it's best to eyeball the whole suit in a full length mirror w/ shoes on.

At 5'7" you are right on the borderline between S and R length; you should try some identical models on in both lengths to get a feel of what's best for you. The jacket you describe sounds a tad long to me, but, as others have suggested, there's several variables to consider.


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## jcriswel (Sep 16, 2006)

*It pays to know the measurements*



Untilted said:


> Greeting from the other side of the moon (trad forum)!
> 
> I recently saw a thread that mentions it's absolutely crucial to have proper jacket length for a short guy. Being 5 feet 7, how long is too long? When my arms and hands are relaxed, my figure tips ususally hit the bottom hem of my jacket or surpass the bottom hem a little. Is that appropriate?


I really think the "cover the butt" method is safest. Some people have long arms and some have short arms relative to their height. Personally, I go for as short a jacket as I can get away with. In my case the average is about 30" from bottom of collar to bottom hem in the back. I really prefer 29". Anything between 29" or 30" seems to work for me. Most regulars in my size run between 31" and 32" so I hardly ever consider a regular. The margin is quite small actually - a 1/2" one way or the other can make a big difference.

I think the theory is (got this from a Flusser book) that short people tend to have shorter legs relative to their height. If you expose the maximum amount of trouser height below the hem of the jacket, it will enhance the illusion of more overall height. If the minimum amount of trouser height appears from under the hem, then you look shorter relative to your height.

jcriswel


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## gng8 (Aug 5, 2005)

I'm 5' 8" and I feel that the cover the butt method generally produces a coat that is slightly too long for me. I try to stay as close to 31" from the bottom of the collar as I can. If the coat is longer than 31 1/2", I won't buy it.

Just a personal preference.


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## Rolo (Aug 22, 2006)

Wow. There are a lot of short guys here. So far, at 5'3", I think I'm winning.

I think there is a tendency for short guys to wear coats that are too long simply because that's all that's available off the peg. If you ever get a chance to try on an extra short, do so. Also, if you go MTM, make sure that (1) the tailor/salesperson that is measuring you is competent and (2) the MTM program uses models where they actually adjust the length of the jacket. I've seen programs where jacket length was not a measurement on the order form. And, even if they take a length measurement, make sure that they're cutting the jacket to that measurement and not just determining whether to fit you into a S, R, or L model. The salesperson probably won't know. Make them call the manufacturer.

It's amazing what an extra inch less length can mean to how well a suit can look on you.

I also find that the cup the fingers method seems to result in jacket that is too long for most short guys (not just me).


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## Rich (Jul 10, 2005)

Another "rule" is jacket length = inside leg + one inch.
This works for me (5'8" - inside leg = 29")

I agree that jacket length is crucial to how a suit looks, because jacket length also means button position and pocket height. It's too-low buttons and too-low pockets that make the jacket look wrong, more than the low hem. Which is why shortening the jacket won't work.


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## gng8 (Aug 5, 2005)

I checked the suit I am wearing today. The coat length measures perfect according to the usual standards and there is just enough cuff showing. However the tips of my fingers WHEN EXTENDED do not reach the bottom of the suit coat. I guess my arms must really be short compared to the "standard".

Next suit, I am going to go for a shorter coat length just because the overall picture still makes the coat look too long for me.


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## pthmas (Aug 9, 2006)

*From a Tailors Perspective*

There is some deviation on correct length. I fit people every day. The general rule of thumb is the distance from the base of one's collar to the floor divided by 2 + 1/2 in is the correct length.

That aside with the current trend of shorter coats narrow lapels, and a shorter point to point we are not so quick to add the half. Ultimately a jacket should cut you in half visually.


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## JLibourel (Jun 13, 2004)

Well, I am fairly tall (6'3") with a long torso and comparatively short arms and legs. If I used the "cupped fingers" method of determining jacket length, the hem would bisect my @$$!


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## Short Men's Style Guy (Jun 9, 2007)

*First Your Butt, Then Your Arms*

We fit men your height or shorter every day. We always first check to see what will give you the best perception of proportion. As many have said, at 5'7" (original poster) you may have a longer or shorter than average torso for that height and your arms may also be slightly longer or shorter. All rules are valid. The question is which do you apply first? In our experience, the first rule is to *cover your butt*. The 1/2" to 1" of extra length beyond that can possibly be dictated by the length of your arms, if you haven't already reached the *1/2 way* mark measured from collar to foot plus 1/2". So now what do you do if you have a short torso and long legs at 5'7"? Then the rule of *1/2 way* comes first. Now look at the opposite. You have a long torso at 5'7". Odds are slim you'll need a reg, but a longer short size jacket may be what you need. The *cover your butt* rule applies first. The *1/2 way* rule won't work if it doesn't cover your butt. What will happen is you'll look pear shaped. No matter how skinny or stocky you are. However, this is only part of the process. Things like appropriately scaled patterns and color combinations can also help in creating a better proportion. The net effect of wearing the right fit, pattern and color combinations in the right proportions is that you will look taller. Whether you care to or not, this will be the perceived end result.

I know what I'm sharing with you works. My dad's 68 yrs old and has been fitting shorter men for a better part of 40 years and has been pounding his philosphy into me for as long as I've remembered even wanting to care. I'm 35 yrs old and I probably know more than I want to, but its a part of me now.

A side note. If you are under 5'5", we do carry tailored and casual clothing that will fit you off-the-rack (shameless plug, but I feel that confident about my dad's designs). My dad, Jimmy is 5'3". He starts his design process at 5'5".

Look forward to sharing our insight to the shorter guys posting here at Andy's.

Regards,

Alan Au

Jimmy Au's For Men 5'8" and Under
9408 Brighton Way
Beverly Hills, CA 90210
310-888-8708


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## marlinspike (Jun 4, 2007)

I think the bigger thing than covering your butt to keep in mind (since that one you don't even think about, you just realize it's right when you put it on) is that you most likely want to show about 1/4-1/2" of cuff when your arms are at your side. I see people walking downtown with their jacket coming down halfway between their wrist and the first knuckly of their thumb and it just looks silly.


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