# J.Press Cotton Unconstructed Jacket



## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

Anyone tried these?

The picture shows darts, but they wouldn't be the first company to use an incorrect image.

If you've tried it, what's the fit like? I wanted to get a cotton jacket like this for a little looser fit than the RL models I have.


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## eris (Mar 31, 2008)

Judging by the name and image, I'd guess they're made by J. Keydge, a French company. I've never had or handled one myself, but they're generally geld in high regard by the European crowd


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## CMDC (Jan 31, 2009)

Haven't tried it but I'm almost certain it is darted. I've seen them in store.


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## eris (Mar 31, 2008)

Yeah it's J Keydge, and yes, they're darted. Doesn't bother me tho...

https://www.jkeydge.com/2.aspx?Prod...tID=72d9697c-0c3e-485a-8039-0724e223171c&sr=0


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## Sir Cingle (Aug 22, 2009)

I've tried one on in the store. As others say, they are certainly darted. If you're going to be at the warehouse sale in NYC, I'd wait till then, as they'll definitely be 70% off or so there. They were there last year at that price. 

When I tried it on, I thought the jacket was nice. It's more substantial than a few of the other J. Press unconstructed jackets, which are closer in feel to shirts.


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## Thom Browne's Schooldays (Jul 29, 2007)

BB had one very similar to that but a sack, I can't find the link but I remember Hook'em posting about it a while back.

I'd love to pick one up, I bought a polo one a couple years ago and it's terrible.


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## Joe Beamish (Mar 21, 2008)

I own a couple Polo ones, and I was excited to get them (new on ebay), but was disappointed. They're so shapeless and unremarkable as to look like blue lab coats, once donned. If you were to squint at someone wearing one, it would look like a longish cardigan.

I've always wanted a really neato cotton blazer/jacket, but haven't found it EXCEPT by wearing the jackets of those vintage wash and wear BB cotton suits. But they still have a constructed look to be sure.

If I happen by Press soon, I'll try one on. Eager to hear what people think -- and to see pix.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

Well I bought one. I'll post pics when it arrives. For better or for worse.


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## Thom Browne's Schooldays (Jul 29, 2007)

Joe Beamish said:


> I own a couple Polo ones, and I was excited to get them (new on ebay), but was disappointed. They're so shapeless and unremarkable as to look like blue lab coats, once donned. If you were to squint at someone wearing one, it would look like a longish cardigan.
> 
> I've always wanted a really neato cotton blazer/jacket, but haven't found it EXCEPT by wearing the jackets of those vintage wash and wear BB cotton suits. But they still have a constructed look to be sure.
> 
> If I happen by Press soon, I'll try one on. Eager to hear what people think -- and to see pix.


This is _exactly_ what I found.

Polo's made in Italy jackets are some of the nicest I've ever personally put on, and the shoulders are nothing shirt of fantastic.
But their other jackets are just terrible, too short, too tight, really weird armholes (I tried one on a few weeks ago that I couldn't lift my arms up in).

Trip- looking forward to your report, did you go with navy or khaki?


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## Joe Beamish (Mar 21, 2008)

Veddy interestink. I bet it's better than the Polo ones I've got. But I think these things should have a rather trim fit, or look like blue lab coats.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

TBS, I went with navy. I already have an RL made in Italy khaki that works great, but I wear khaki pants 9 days out of 10 so it only gets used when I'm sporting dark denim.

I think that if I were to go full bespoke and never turn back, I'd never wear a constructed jacket again. 

I'd probably dress like these guys:


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## Joe Beamish (Mar 21, 2008)

Euroman Cometh. Interesting aesthetic though. You would have to have a mistress.


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## dorji (Feb 18, 2010)

Joe Beamish said:


> I've always wanted a really neato cotton blazer/jacket...
> Eager to hear what people think -- and to see pix.


I have been on the fence about their linen/wool herringbone sportcoat for weeks. I can't seem to find what I am looking for and do not want to compromise on much. I was even able to try an unconstructed jacket type thing from Bills khakis, but it was strange...
Got exited about this:
https://www.normanhilton.com/store/#ecwid:category=968181&mode=product&product=3942944
but they don't have my size and the price tag is a little steep.

Trip- looking forward to hearing about your experience with this one!


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## CMDC (Jan 31, 2009)

I like the unconstructed jacket but I don't know, those two guys look like they slept in the park.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

CMDC said:


> I like the unconstructed jacket but I don't know, those two guys look like they slept in the park.


They look like the slept in a private park.


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## YoungClayB (Nov 16, 2009)

Trip wearing darts...the end is near. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## dorji (Feb 18, 2010)

These are also worth considering, in my opinion anyway. 2 button but dartless, USA made, good price, french faced... I tried my usual size on today and found the fit long, also the cotton is...slippery?? That's the best way I can describe it anyway. I am going to call them tomorrow to see if I can get a few specs to get a good fit.
https://www.americansuitstore.com/Casual-Soft-Coat-p/0062bil.htm
we shall see :icon_smile:


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Trip English said:


> TBS, I went with navy. I already have an RL made in Italy khaki that works great, but I wear khaki pants 9 days out of 10 so it only gets used when I'm sporting dark denim.
> 
> I think that if I were to go full bespoke and never turn back, I'd never wear a constructed jacket again.
> 
> I'd probably dress like these guys:


Trip: Are you serious? Those yahoos look terribly unkept...and the jackets seem just the beginning. What is the motivation for going around in public, intentionally looking like that? I've a couple of unstructured (or lightly structured) jackets that get worn occasionally during the summer months. However they are much better maintained than those candidates for the rubbish bin! I've gotta think you are pulling our (Cyber) leg(s). :icon_scratch:


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## Bjorn (May 2, 2010)

eagle2250 said:


> Trip: Are you serious? Those yahoos look terribly unkept...and the jackets seem just the beginning. What is the motivation for going around in public, intentionally looking like that? I've a couple of unstructured (or lightly structured) jackets that get worn occasionally during the summer months. However they are much better maintained than those candidates for the rubbish bin! I've gotta think you are pulling our (Cyber) leg(s). :icon_scratch:


They are elegant, if wrinkled, yahoos...


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

I am serious. I love the look of unstructured clothes. I like clothes that don't have to be babied. That's one of the attractions that initially brought me to this tradition of dressing. It's not rugged in a work-wear sense, but just not caring if clothing gets a crease or a wrinkle or a little wear. I stuff things in suit coat pockets, crouch down in dress pants, and generally abuse my clothes and they take more more character with age.


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## Bjorn (May 2, 2010)

What's the current rate of success on deconstructing old jackets yourself (or your tailor). Some jackets get tighter due to, ehum, age-related shrinking (!). Could I take an old linen jacket and deconstruct it?


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

It has arrived and I am wearing it. 

So far, I'm also liking it. Spending almost $300 on something I can't return or exchange, in hindsight, seems a little goofy, but fortunately I've been spared any comeuppance. 

I'll take a restroom shot in a few, but here's the play by play:

1. Darted
2. Side vents
3. Slim Fit, almost tight
4. Working button holes
5. Suppressed waist
6. Very soft fabric

If you hid the label, I'd have said this was a Ralph Lauren product. Every detail is consistent with a lot of the jackets I've gotten from RL. It's absolutely a novelty for Press. I had expected a more forgiving cut, and certainly less waist suppression. The double vents were a complete surprise. 

I don't know if I'll wind up keeping it because I have two jackets just like it, one being all cotton and one being a cotton/linen blend.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

Very different from what Joe described as the "lab coat" look that some unstructured jackets have. There's clearly a difference between unstructured and unlined.


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## Sir Cingle (Aug 22, 2009)

That's a great looking casual jacket, I think. I'm amazed it has side vents.


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## Joe Beamish (Mar 21, 2008)

That's definitely a nicer fit, with better proportions, than my Polo lab coats. I think you threw a wild dart and got lucky right down to the sleeve length. 

I'm not quite sure what I think about the species. It's hard to think of any jacket, cotton or not, as being "casual" these days in itself. Depends what you wear with it. I'm pretty happy with my current lineup.

I hope you post another pic or two of this with your first string camera in the WAYWT thread -- this definitely works for you.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

Thanks, Joe. I'm going to do some trying on tonight against my other two similar jackets and see who wins. This is the most snug and while it's comfortable over a dress shirt, it would be too much to slip even a light sweater vest under it. Maybe it's my inner grandmother, but I feel like I should be able to wear a sweater under it. I don't like having clothes that are only a few visits to Popeyes away from the back of the closet. 

And Sir C, I'm also surprised at the vents, but seeing as it's really a J. Keydge (whose website is IN FRENCH!!!!) I suppose it's to be expected.


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## WouldaShoulda (Aug 5, 2009)

Yours looks nothing like those bag wearing wrinkled doofus' posted earlier.

Thank goodness!!


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## jwooten (Dec 19, 2010)

The fit is excellent. I think the side vents probably help with attaining a more casual hands in the pocket look. I've been less than impressed with unstructured jackets in the past, but this is definitely a step in the right direction.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

It's funny that the feedback is positive overall! I've thought about turning it over since it's so slim fitting. Apparently that's a good thing.


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## Bjorn (May 2, 2010)

It looks like it fits like a glove. The shoulders look excellent.


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## Joe Beamish (Mar 21, 2008)

What about washing it? Or would you dry clean it? Hmm -- thinking of shrinking

That's one nice thing about wool jackets, just give them a brushing and maybe a spot cleaning now and then


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## Thom Browne's Schooldays (Jul 29, 2007)

patch pockets?


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

Joe Beamish said:


> What about washing it? Or would you dry clean it? Hmm -- thinking of shrinking
> 
> That's one nice thing about wool jackets, just give them a brushing and maybe a spot cleaning now and then


That's my biggest fear. A few pieces of spicy dark meat and a trip through the laundry away from snugsville.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

Thom Browne's Schooldays said:


> patch pockets?


No sir.


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## eris (Mar 31, 2008)

Trip English said:


> And Sir C, I'm also surprised at vents, but seeing as it's really a J. Keydge (whose website is IN FRENCH!!!!) I suppose it's to be expected.


See that's the weird thing -- they have a stunning, three-patch-pocket, center vented "Ivy" model. Weird because you'd think that's the model Press would stock...hum


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## Anon 18th Cent. (Oct 27, 2008)

eris,
Press does or did. I bought one from them last year. Dynamite!

Edit: Just remembered this thread is about cotton jackets; mine is linen.

The Ivy model has no darts, no structure, single hook vent, and two working buttons on the sleeves. Flat seams and three patch pockets. Just the way I like it.

Great work by the French.


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## Yuca (Feb 19, 2011)

Funnily enough an Ivy model arrived at my home yesterday, it went back yesterday too; despite being a very tasty summer jacket it was slightly too tight on the waist and shoulders. Unfortunately Keydge do not do odd sizes, meaning the next size up will actually be 2 sizes up, so that may end up being returned too. I'll keep you posted, however other than size issues I was suitably impressed.


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## Hayek (Jun 20, 2006)

I have an unconstructed BB khaki jacket that I love. I tried on the Press offering at the time I bought it and wasn't too impressed, even though I tend to prefer Press.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Trip English said:


> Very different from what Joe described as the "lab coat" look that some unstructured jackets have. There's clearly a difference between unstructured and unlined.


Trip: You wear that jacket very well...an excellent look. To my eye, in a best case scenario, that is how an unstructured or lightly structured jacket should look. You have left those cosmopolitan(?) fellows, pictured in your post #11, in your sartorial dust! :thumbs-up:

PS: I can really appreciate your philosophy of you wearing the clothes, rather than allowing the clothes to wear you! IMHO, that is a practical example of 'gettin real' style.


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## Benson (Aug 28, 2009)

Thought I should mention that I've seen this guy around Madrid a few times, twice in a shop that sells unconstructed jackets that look like the one he is wearing for about 650 euro. It is one of the better shops I've found here, as the accessories are mainly Drake's and Simmonot-Godard, the sweaters William Lockie, and most of the shoes, rather surprisingly, Alden. It is off Calle Serrano and is called Denis.


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## Dave Scoven (Mar 4, 2013)

Trip English said:


> They look like the slept in a private park.


LOL. Good one. VERY good one. :cool2:


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## Dave Scoven (Mar 4, 2013)

Benson said:


> Thought I should mention that I've seen this guy around Madrid a few times, twice in a shop that sells unconstructed jackets that look like the one he is wearing for about 650 euro. It is one of the better shops I've found here, as the accessories are mainly Drake's and Simmonot-Godard, the sweaters William Lockie, and most of the shoes, rather surprisingly, Alden. It is off Calle Serrano and is called Denis.


I keep saying I'm going into business, and this is why. There's no reason on Earth why that jacket should cost 650 euros. None. I'll bet good tailor could make that (admittedly very cool jacket) by hand for $250, U.S.


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## Eric W S (Jun 6, 2012)

Dave Scoven said:


> I keep saying I'm going into business, and this is why. There's no reason on Earth why that jacket should cost 650 euros. None. I'll bet good tailor could make that (admittedly very cool jacket) by hand for $250, U.S.


Bespoke by hand without a pre-existing pattern? Doubtful. A well made jacket takes a long time and is an art.


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