# How can I spot the difference between full-grain and corrected-grain leather?



## Rilian (Sep 21, 2008)

*How do you tell the difference between full-grain and corrected-grain leather?*

Hello, I got a gift certificate to Brooks Brothers for my birthday, and I'm considering getting another pair of Peal & Co. Shoes. As I was looking online through their catalog, it dawned on me that I have no idea how to spot the difference between full grain and corrected grain leather:

Wikipedia offers these two definitions:

*Full-grain*
Full-grain or top-grain is referring to the upper section of a hide that contains the epidermis or skin layer. It refers to hides that have not been sanded, buffed or snuffed(otherwise known as Corrected) in order to remove imperfections on the surface of the hide. Only the hair has been removed from the epidermis. The grain remains in its natural state which will allow the best fiber strength, resulting in greater durability.

*Corrected-grain*
Corrected-grain leather is any top-grain leather that has had its surfaces sanded, buffed or snuffed in order to remove any imperfection on the surface due to insect bites, healed scars or brands. Top-grain leather is often wrongly referred to as corrected-grain. Although corrected-grain leather is made from top-grain as soon as the surface is corrected in any way the leather is no longer referred to as top-grain leather.

So from my understanding, all smooth leather is corrected-grain?

I just bought these Peals below:

To my eye, the leather looks smooth. So should I assume they are corrected grain? And thus of lesser quality?

I'm considering the following shoes for my next purchase:

https://tinyurl.com/498euk

https://tinyurl.com/3tzxhz









https://tinyurl.com/53gglo









https://tinyurl.com/45wsa6









Should I assume that all the "pebble" grains are full-grain, and that the smooth black leather is corrected-grain?

Thanks for your help.


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## bigCat (Jun 10, 2005)

Rilian said:


> Should I assume that all the "pebble" grains are full-grain, and that the smooth black leather is corrected-grain?


No.

Pebble grain is frequently obtained by "printing" the pattern in - and can be achieved on either full or corrected grain.

Full grain leather can be smooth - the main tell is plasticky feel that corrected grain has.

Those Peals you bought are probably full grain.


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## JohnHarvard (Oct 7, 2008)

Pebble grain is not full grain. I would imagine that corrected vs full grain would be difficult to spot out via photos.


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## bengal-stripe (May 10, 2003)

“Full grain” shows the grain (the pores) of the leather. Look closely (you might want to use a magnifying glass), 
do you see fine craters (the pores), out of each one, grew a hair at one time?

“Corrected grain” has this top layer removed, the pores are gone. Most CG leathers are very shiny 
and the surface looks totally smooth (like frozen water).

You can emboss full grain as well as corrected grain. Again, look carefully, do you see underneath the pattern 
the original pores, or are they gone?


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## Rilian (Sep 21, 2008)

bengal-stripe said:


> "Full grain" shows the grain (the pores) of the leather. Look closely (you might want to use a magnifying glass),
> do you see fine craters (the pores), out of each one, grew a hair at one time?
> 
> "Corrected grain" has this top layer removed, the pores are gone. Most CG leathers are very shiny
> ...


Ah. The pores! So I'm assuming full-grain leather, even if smooth, would show visible pores?


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## bengal-stripe (May 10, 2003)

Rilian said:


> So I'm assuming full-grain leather, even if smooth, would show visible pores?


That's right!

Top-quality leather comes from young animals, so the pores (grain) are very fine and even, 
but you can see them with the naked eye, just look very closely.

I haven't got a macro lens to take some pictures.


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## Marcus Brody (Oct 11, 2008)

Rilian said:


> Hello, I got a gift certificate to Brooks Brothers for my birthday, and I'm considering getting another pair of Peal & Co. Shoes. As I was looking online through their catalog, it dawned on me that I have no idea how to spot the difference between full grain and corrected grain leather:
> 
> https://tinyurl.com/3tzxhz


Doesn't help to answer your question at all, but I'd love to have either of the above pairs of boots. My big footwear need is a pair of black shoes (probably boots) to be worn principally with casual wear.


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## Rilian (Sep 21, 2008)

bengal-stripe said:


> That's right!
> 
> Top-quality leather comes from young animals, so the pores (grain) are very fine and even,
> but you can see them with the naked eye, just look very closely.
> ...


I just got home from work and looked at the Peals I bought up close. The leather from far away looks smooth. But when looking at them extremely close, they indeed have a very very fine grain. I believe I can even see the pores.

Yay for full-grain!


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## Miket61 (Mar 1, 2008)

I disagree with the Wikipedia article.

When I managed the library for a large interior design firm, I coordinated the vendor luncheons - they'd bring in samples and catalogues and lunch and the designers would give them undivided attention, unless the catering was really really good....

The rep for Spinneybeck, which at the time was negotiating a contract to provide leather for Tumi luggage, explained that "top-grain" actually refers to leather that has been "topped" - the outermost layer is sanded down to remove imperfections. "Full-grain" leather is the higher quality, relying on the skill of the tanner and the care given to the cow/calf/goat/bison/elephant/whatever to produce a beautiful hide.


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## GBR (Aug 10, 2005)

Does the distinction, whatever it actually is, have any practical difference for shoes or is it purely in the mind?


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## Bracemaker (May 11, 2005)

Miket61 said:


> I disagree with the Wikipedia article.
> 
> "Full-grain" leather is the higher quality, relying on the skill of the tanner and the care given to the cow/calf/goat/bison/elephant/whatever to produce a beautiful hide.


Not entirely true - after leather has been tanned, but before it is finished, there is a selection process - the best skins/hides (those with the fewest imperfections, scars, veterinary stitches, barbed wire scratches, bullet holes, warble fly damage etc etc) are deemed suitable for full grain finishing, the rest are buffed (which removes the surface and the marks) then printed/embossed with a haircell/pebble/croc/ whatever grain.


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## Bracemaker (May 11, 2005)

GBR said:


> Does the distinction, whatever it actually is, have any practical difference for shoes or is it purely in the mind?


There is a difference - as per previous post full grain is generally done on better quality raw material, still has it's natural top layer and can be finished with aniline pull up dyes (Horween do a lot of this) to show off the inner qualities of the skin. Not sure if the shoes last a day longer though...


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## Hector Freemantle (Aug 2, 2008)

In a recent post, Leatherman reminded us that corrected grain is not necessarily low quality leather. The purpose of the 'correction' or sanding is sometimes he pointed out to provide a uniform surface prior to the application of a synthetic polymer for shoes that are intentionally sold having a permanently shiny finish. The polished binder finish offered by Church in many styles is an example of this.


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## Rilian (Sep 21, 2008)

I just got back from the Brooks Brothers store here in San Francisco. I had my Ask Andy discount card for the sale, but sadly, they didn't have any of the above boots I wanted :-(.


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