# How to wear a polo coat (photos)...



## Doctor Damage

Here's a nice photo of Lord Wodehouse wearing a polo coat, while resting. Dated January 1926.


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## Doctor Damage

This is the current (12th) Duke of Northumberland wearing a ratty old polo coat in the field. Note torn right shoulder, and distended button holes. Note wet and smelly retreivers.


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## mpcsb

Excellent photos....excellent indeed.
Cheers


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## Tom Buchanan

Great pictures, thanks.

While on the topic of polo coats in pictures, I recently pulled out my "Pimm's Book of Polo" (something I bought on a lark when the second incarnation of Abercrombie & Fitch was clearing out its real stock to start selling tee shirts and thongs). 

The book has a couple pictures of very stylish Indian players wearing polo coats while accepting their trophies. The pictures appear to be from the 1920s or 30s. Their coats are fully belted "wrap" style, without buttons. This makes perfect sense since they were to be thrown on between chuckers.

Since I have read that the British adopted this style from India, my guess is that the British tailors took the camel coat wrap, and added the double breasted aspects typically found on Naval great coats, or British Warms or Ulsters. 

And, of course, us Americans have Brooks Brothers to thank for bringing it to here.

I just think the evolution of the coat is interesting.


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## Doctor Damage

More ways to wear a polo coat.

(1) As a factotum or detective shadowing Frank Costello, January 1952, New York.



(2) As an aging photo-journalist shaking the hand of Frank Costello, February 1951, Washington.


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## Doctor Damage

Cheese it, it's the fuzz!

The other side of the law: Prohibition-era detectives Moe Smith and Izzy Einstein, January 1923, before and after donning disguises for infiltrating speak easy's (I'm not making this up).


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## Doctor Damage

Polo coat worn by (make-believe) ganster intimidating (make-believe) longshoreman, New York.


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## mpcsb

OK Doc, fess up. What's the fascination with polo coats. How many do you have, old, new, colors?


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## Doctor Damage

Here's what appears to be a belted polo on Walter Camp, 1920, who codified the rules of football.



Polo coat accessorized with rubber overshoes and team watch cap. Vince Lombardi, early 1960s.


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## zegnamtl

Doc D,

On behalf of my youngest, 
I officially file a protest against you referring to those two lovely retrievers as smelly!


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## Fashionslave

> quote:_Originally posted by Doctor Damage_
> 
> This is the current (12th) Duke of Northumberland wearing a ratty old polo coat in the field. Note torn right shoulder, and distended button holes. Note wet and smelly retreivers.


Hate to tell you this,but -That's the original coat he inherited from the original duke.I think it's looking pretty darn good for an 80 year old coat,don't you??


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## Tom Buchanan

> quote:_Originally posted by Doctor Damage_
> 
> Here's what appears to be a belted polo on Walter Camp, 1920, who codified the rules of football.
> 
> Polo coat accessorized with rubber overshoes and team watch cap. Vince Lombardi, early 1960s.


Now we are talking role models. "Saint Walter" basically developed American football. In fact, he was so Trad in his thinking that he resisted the forward pass. If the coat is good enough for Walter Camp, it is good enough for every man.


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## Tomasso

# 85 is Max McGee.


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## Roger

Doctor, thanks for a really interesting photo essay. Can you or someone else present the defining characteristics of the Polo Coat, and how it differs from other styles of overcoats.

Vancouver


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## Doctor Damage

> quote:_Originally posted by Tomasso_
> 
> # 85 is Max McGee.


...and Lombardi is talking to #15, quarterback Bart Starr.

DD


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## Rich

https://imageshack.us


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## Fogey

> quote:Hate to tell you this,but -That's the original coat he inherited from the original duke.I think it's looking pretty darn good for an 80 year old coat,don't you??


If by 'original duke' you are referring to the most recent 1st Duke of Northumberland (3rd Creation), then it would be at _least_ 220 years old.


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## Doctor Damage

Belted polo coats on the NY Giants baseball team in October 1924. Can anyone guess the location where the photo was taken?


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## Tomasso

> quote:_Originally posted by Doctor Damage_
> Can anyone guess the location where the photo was taken?


Japan?


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## Doctor Damage

Polo players weren't the only ones to throw on a polo coat to keep warm. Here's some nice old photos of various tennis players wrapped up. The first two are April 1933 and show British tennis players getting ready to travel to the US for a tournament.





This image is from June 1913. The fellow on the right has the most luxurious polo coat I've ever seen photographed.


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## Tomasso

Bill Tilden would wear a polo coat over his tennis whites(long flannel trousers and sweater)as he entered the tennis stadium not unlike a robed boxer entering the ring.


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## Doctor Damage

> quote:_Originally posted by Tomasso_
> 
> Bill Tilden would wear a polo coat over his tennis whites(long flannel trousers and sweater)as he entered the tennis stadium not unlike a robed boxer entering the ring.


Thusly...


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## Tomasso

Tilden was also known to go days, some said weeks, without bathing.


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## Tom Buchanan

> quote:_Originally posted by Doctor Damage_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> quote:_Originally posted by Tomasso_
> 
> Bill Tilden would wear a polo coat over his tennis whites(long flannel trousers and sweater)as he entered the tennis stadium not unlike a robed boxer entering the ring.
> 
> 
> 
> Thusly...
> 
> Is that Tilden in the picture? "Big Bill" was supposed to have towered over his opponents at 6'3".
Click to expand...


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## Doctor Damage

> quote:_Originally posted by Tom Buchanan_
> 
> Is that Tilden in the picture? "Big Bill" was supposed to have towered over his opponents at 6'3".


That's a good point: the description on the archive identifies him clearly as "William Tilden, (1893-1953), American tennisman", but the fellow in the background of the photo, staring upwards at the sky, looks more like Tilden.

DD


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## Tomasso

"Big" Bill Tilden having what appears to be, a smoke.


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## Doctor Damage

Here's more tennis players, this time French ones. The one wearing the polo coat is Jean Borotra. Every member of AAAC should be able to identify the player third from the left in the first photo.


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## Tomasso

> quote:_Originally posted by Doctor Damage_
> 
> Here's more tennis players, this time French ones. The one wearing the polo coat is Jean Borotra. Every member of AAAC should be able to identify the player third from the left in the first photo.


The Four Musketeers who included the "Crocodile".


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## Tomasso

> quote:_Originally posted by Doctor Damage_
> 
> Belted polo coats on the NY Giants baseball team in October 1924. Can anyone guess the location where the photo was taken?


Hey DD, Where was this photo taken? Aside from the deck of the Montroyal.


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## Tom Buchanan

Below is a link to the previous, excellent thread on polo coats I found while searching.


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## Literide

Brooks has nice one in some kind of tweed, looks great and on sale. Somebody please buy one.


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## Concordia

Tangentially related point:

Several of the polo coats I've seen are 6x3-- that is they could button with three buttons, but are typically rolled to 2. What about the inside button? Is that placed on the middle row (assuming a balance with the roll 2 on the other side) or top row? Does anyone actually use that third top button?


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## rws

> quote:_Originally posted by Concordia_
> . . . Several of the polo coats I've seen are 6x3-- that is they could button with three buttons, but are typically rolled to 2. What about the inside button? Is that placed on the middle row (assuming a balance with the roll 2 on the other side) or top row?


Yes.


> quoteoes anyone actually use that third top button?


Occasionally; and I don't think that it looks too bad fully buttoned, even though it was cut for me to roll it to the central row.


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## Concordia

> quote:_Originally posted by rws_
> Yes.


A choice of two and you say "yes"?


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## n/a

Does anyone know how one might go about purchasing a polo coat in a cream or stone-colored camel hair (as opposed to the tans and light browns that are currently on the market)? My understanding--and this may be incorrect--is that the original polo coat was a cream and/or stone color. Thanks.
--Chauncey


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## rws

> quote:_Originally posted by Concordia_
> 
> 
> 
> quote:_Originally posted by rws_Yes.
> 
> 
> 
> A choice of two and you say "yes"?
Click to expand...

'Sorry. That's what happens when one tries to do too many things at work.

The inside button is behind the central row, not the top, because the coat was cut -- the lapels were constructed -- to roll to that row. Had the coat been cut to roll to the top row, I'd expect to find the inside button behind the top row.


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## rws

> quote:_Originally posted by Chauncey_
> Does anyone know how one might go about purchasing a polo coat in a cream or stone-colored camel hair (as opposed to the tans and light browns that are currently on the market)? . . . .


The cloth is out there, so a tailor could make it for you. Such a light-colored coat would look smashing -- the first few times that you wore it.


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## Tomasso

> quote:_Originally posted by rws_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> quote:_Originally posted by Chauncey_
> Does anyone know how one might go about purchasing a polo coat in a cream or stone-colored camel hair (as opposed to the tans and light browns that are currently on the market)? . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> The cloth is out there, so a tailor could make it for you. Such a light-colored coat would look smashing -- the first few times that you wore it.
Click to expand...

I think I read that Tom Wolfe changes outfits three or four times a day.


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## Doctor Damage

Glad to see many have liked this thread. Polo coats intrigue me, since they are kind of old-world yet still widely available. However, I wonder if BB had stopped making their polo coat a few decades ago whether anyone else would still offer one, at least RTW (I'm thinking Ben Silver in particular, who unfailingly offer a polo coat for fall/winter). If BB had dropped polo coats, would interest in the buying public have also declined, such that they wouldn't be commonly available today?

*Tom B.*: Very grateful for your info on the Indian polo players, since that seems to be the 'missing link' about the origins of polo coats. Please post those pictures, if you can.

*mpcsb*: No polo coats in my closet...yet. I hope to remedy that this fall with a BB, although I am kind of leery of camel hair, since I don't think it would last too long. The tweed version would be nicer, but BB will probably not bring it back. Ben Silver of course, makes them too, but they seem a little too high quality for my tastes; for me, overcoats need to be tough and long-lasting, not luxurious. I may be able to find a one-season-only coat from another brand, but we'll see. Anyway, it's far too early for the new fall/winter season, so I must content myself with saving up the cash so that I am ready to go.

*ZegnaM*: Being a retriever person myself (Golden), and living in Canada, I know all about wet and smelly dogs!

*Roger*: I'd say polo coats need to be (1) double-breasted, (2) below the knees in length, (3) belted (full or half-belt), (4) made of wool or camel (i.e. not cotton), (5) patch pockets, and (6) turn-up cuffs. BB of course offers a single-breasted polo coat but that I think is a bastard style, and best ignored by AAAC members.

As for general styles, the image below seems the best summary. As noted by Concordia, there are different buttoning methods. The image below is a "6 buttoning to 6", while BB does "6 buttoning to 4", and Ben Silver seems to offer "6 buttoning to 6 but rolled to 4" (sort of a 'sack' buttoning).

Belts are mostly half-belts in North America, but I suspect Brits might be more prone to go with full belts and larger collars/lapels (see the example in Roetzel's book, and a photo of Prince Charles I posted a few weeks ago).

*rws*: Using company time to post on internet forums? Oh wait, that how this thread got started...

DD


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## rws

> quote:_Originally posted by Doctor Damage_
> . . . . *rws*: Using company time to post on internet forums? . . . .


Yes. Fortunately, I own the company. (Of course, it isn't a very big company.)


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## Roger

Thanks for your explanation and, in fact, the whole thread, Doctor; it's precisely the kind that makes this such a great forum and source of learning. One little point about the button format: I've seen references to "6 X 3" and "6 X 2" to indicate that a coat has 6 buttons with the 3 (or 2) on the right side actually fastening via the buttonholes. Maybe another way of stating the "6 with 3 actually buttoning" is "6 buttoning to 6", as you have put it. And "6 buttoning to 2" would become "6 buttoning to 4" using your system. Do I have this right or am I just confused after a long day?

Vancouver


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## Doctor Damage

I woke up late last night realizing that I had forgotten two very important parts of the 'definition' of polo coats I had posted yesterday: "...(5) patch pockets, and (6) turn-up cuffs."

Roger, I have no idea how to call those buttoning systems, I simply use what I am comfortable with. I have the sinking feeling that there is no hard-and-fast system, since every book I have on men's clothing describes it differently. Someone like Manton needs to be consulted; perhaps we can start a thread on this...yes, I will dig up some diagrams and we can consult the senior AAAC members.

DD


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## Michaelgmd

I disagree with the comment that overcoats shouldn't be luxurious. And I think that the Polo Coat is the most elegant type of overcoat. It can be dressed up or down especially when it's camel or camel colored. 

and I put my money where my mouth is! I recently purchased 8 yards of absoultely virgin vicuna that hasn't seen the light of day since 1949. It was discovered in an attic of one of the grandchildren of the mill owner. Unlike the modern vicuna, this has slight gradations of shading.

Mike Cohen of Oxxford has graciously agreed to use some of my material to make a coat -- and the choice was for a classic American-style Polo.
It will be a real treasure when it's done and I should have enough fabric left for another one if and when this one wears out!


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## steedappeal

Terrific photos!

Did anyone happen to see the J. Press DB polo coat this year? Any comments?


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## Harris

> quote:_Originally posted by Michaelgmd_
> 
> I disagree with the comment that overcoats shouldn't be luxurious. And I think that the Polo Coat is the most elegant type of overcoat. It can be dressed up or down especially when it's camel or camel colored.
> 
> and I put my money where my mouth is! I recently purchased 8 yards of absoultely virgin vicuna that hasn't seen the light of day since 1949. It was discovered in an attic of one of the grandchildren of the mill owner. Unlike the modern vicuna, this has slight gradations of shading.
> 
> Mike Cohen of Oxxford has graciously agreed to use some of my material to make a coat -- and the choice was for a classic American-style Polo.
> It will be a real treasure when it's done and I should have enough fabric left for another one if and when this one wears out!


Wow. Color me impressed. I've wanted to have a polo coat custom made for some time. The polo coat is that rare breed of clothing that's simultaneously (formally) elegant and casual. Cheers, Harris


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## kitonbrioni

> quote:_Originally posted by Michaelgmd_
> 
> I disagree with the comment that overcoats shouldn't be luxurious. And I think that the Polo Coat is the most elegant type of overcoat. It can be dressed up or down especially when it's camel or camel colored.
> 
> and I put my money where my mouth is! I recently purchased 8 yards of absoultely virgin vicuna that hasn't seen the light of day since 1949. It was discovered in an attic of one of the grandchildren of the mill owner. Unlike the modern vicuna, this has slight gradations of shading.
> 
> Mike Cohen of Oxxford has graciously agreed to use some of my material to make a coat -- and the choice was for a classic American-style Polo.
> It will be a real treasure when it's done and I should have enough fabric left for another one if and when this one wears out!


Please post pics of the fabric and the overcoat when is done.


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## nicksull

Has anyone bothered to identify Rene Lacoste yet?

nicks


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## Tomasso

> quote:_Originally posted by Tomasso_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> quote:_Originally posted by Doctor Damage_
> 
> Here's more tennis players, this time French ones. The one wearing the polo coat is Jean Borotra. Every member of AAAC should be able to identify the player third from the left in the first photo.
> 
> 
> 
> The Four Musketeers who included the "Crocodile".
Click to expand...

Rene"The Crocodile"Lacoste


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## rojo

> quote:_Originally posted by steedappeal_
> 
> Terrific photos!
> 
> Did anyone happen to see the J. Press DB polo coat this year? Any comments?


Yes. I wanted one like nobody's business, but I can't afford such an extravagance (not when I already have a closet full of outerwear) until I sell my house.


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## Tom Buchanan

> quote:_Originally posted by steedappeal_
> 
> Terrific photos!
> 
> Did anyone happen to see the J. Press DB polo coat this year? Any comments?


Yes, I liked it. In fact, I started an earlier thread asking for others' opinions. It is a bit darker than the camelhair I am used to seeing. How do people enjoy the coat?


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## stylestudent

For those of us looking for an authentic camel hair polo coat as described by Manton (including the envelope patch pockets, the buttoned half-belt in back, and the cuffed sleeve), try H Herzfeld on 57th Street between Park and Lex. $1,695 made in Canada. Have two in stock in larger sizes (42 and 44) but will make one up in your size at no additional charge. Happened to be looking for this item too.

Regards,

Steven


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## Doctor Damage

I see that Orvis is offering a nice , now on sale. Unfortunately, it only comes in "letter" sizes, but if you match the statistical average then this could be a great deal.

It looks the part...



DD


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## upr_crust

*As shown below, BB does (or at least did) . . .*

. . sell a polo coat in the traditional style (patch pockets and half-belted, in a below-the-knee length - I'm 5' 10", for reference, and the coat is a 44 regular). I believe that they sold this style this year as well, in camel's hair, as well as a single-breasted version.

https://img508.imageshack.us/my.php?image=0214aze3.jpg


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## Orgetorix

I picked up one of the J Press DB polo coats, NWT, on Ebay a few weeks ago for about $20. It's great--traditional in every respect, and very warm. The seller didn't include shots of the interior labels, so I didn't know what I had bought until it arrived. It is cut to button all three, though the interior button is at the middle row.


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## Angrik

I'm not exactly sure how to post a photo, so I'll attach a link from Fedora Lounge of a photo of the late actor Nigel Bruce in a camel hair polo coat. It's a pretty elegant looking coat. It would look even better in a cream color.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=11822&page=3

Scroll down to #34.

There's also a photo of Tom Hanks wearing a polo coat as "Mike Sullivan" in "Road to Perdition." #31

And others polo coats as well.


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## Doctor Damage

Angrik said:


> There's also a photo of Tom Hanks wearing a polo coat as "Mike Sullivan" in "Road to Perdition." #31
> 
> And others polo coats as well.


Nice photo of Nigel Bruce. Looks like older polo coats were intended to roll the upper buttons.

If you post on Fedora Lounge, for heaven's sake please inform them of the difference between a "polo coat" and a "trenchcoat". For that matter, please explain that the word trenchcoat does NOT include any outerwear that reaches to or below the knees...

DD


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## AlanC

Orgetorix said:


> I picked up one of the J Press DB polo coats, NWT, on Ebay a few weeks ago for about $20.


Fantastic score! :icon_cheers:


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## Doctor Damage

Finally located some photos of polo coats being worn as they started, i.e. as warm wear for polo players in between chukkas. Both photos are from 1939, the first is of Tommy Hitchcock Jr. (note towel worn as scarf) and the second is an undentified polo player.


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## Khnelben

*Then there is ...*

of course the "Damage" link with British royals wearing polo coats

https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?t=45918&highlight=royals

Andrey


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## Doctor Damage

Bump for the inevitable polo coat questions (whenever the weather actually cools down).

DocD


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## rsmeyer

Tom Buchanan said:


> Now we are talking role models. "Saint Walter" basically developed American football. In fact, he was so Trad in his thinking that he resisted the forward pass. If the coat is good enough for Walter Camp, it is good enough for every man.


Lombardi's coat looks more like a British Warm _sans_ epaulets.


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## DougNZ

Yes, a number of those look like British Warms.


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## Albert

Doctor Damage said:


> Cheese it, it's the fuzz!
> 
> The other side of the law: Prohibition-era detectives Moe Smith and Izzy Einstein, January 1923, before and after donning disguises for infiltrating speak easy's (I'm not making this up).


This is pure genius.


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## Albert

Is this style still available anywhere? I am considering to commission this with my HK tailor...

Cheers,
A.


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## Trilby

Brooks Brothers still sell these - https://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCa...ection_Id=222&Product_Id=922276&Parent_Id=202. Their coats have a half belt across the back, rather than a belt that goes completely around the coat, but I think that is more correct for a polo coat these days.

A few other US companies also sell them - e.g., Paul Stuart (a beautiful but expensive store in NY) and Ben Silver (primarily a catalogue compay, but also a store in Charleston).

I have never seen these in the UK. I have one, and when I wear it in London, I get comments from my colleagues that I look like a gangster.


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## Doctor Damage

DougNZ said:


> Yes, a number of those look like British Warms.


The differences are significant, however: although not all polo coats have cuffs, they do generally have larger lapels, whereas the British warmer, in its purest form, has lapels/collar cut similar to a D-B suit and generally unable to be buttoned across (or at least no more than a D-B suit could be).

DocD


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## Bob Loblaw

A Brooks Brothers camel polo coat I purchased last fall:

https://img222.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf0986nf3.jpg

I really wanted one and all that remained was a 42 long. I purchased it despite the fact I usually wear a 42 regular. One of these days I might get the sleeves tuned up if that is possible.


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## nicksull

Albert said:


> Is this style still available anywhere? I am considering to commission this with my HK tailor...
> 
> Cheers,
> A.


Closest look we could get for Big Black Book was this from Polo. Its awesome. But not cheap....although its v solid so should last you a life time.


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## steveincharlotte

I'm looking for polo coats or topcoats online, and wondering how they're sized. They seem to have the same dimensions as suit coats. I wear a 42 suit coat -- that's usually 19" shoulder to shoulder. But 42 polo coats also seem to be 19" shoulder to shoulder, so apparently there's no allowance for what's under it. That would tell me I probably need a 44 polo coat. Does that seem right?


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## nicksull

I tend to agree - i think you can go a little bigger with a polocoat as they are supposed to be a little dressing-gown like. They certainly dont need to be trim or tight. That said one of the reasons you go bigger is that the cloth in an authentic one is way thicker (often a double face) than normal modern topcoats. So you need a little more room.


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## Bob Loblaw

steveincharlotte said:


> I'm looking for polo coats or topcoats online, and wondering how they're sized. They seem to have the same dimensions as suit coats. I wear a 42 suit coat -- that's usually 19" shoulder to shoulder. But 42 polo coats also seem to be 19" shoulder to shoulder, so apparently there's no allowance for what's under it. That would tell me I probably need a 44 polo coat. Does that seem right?


My above listed coat was purchased in my jacket size and I am swimming in fabric if I am not wearing a jacket.

I imagine it depends on the manufacturer but I would recommend buying your suit jacket size if you go with Brooks Brothers.


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## Mark from Plano

Topcoat sizing baffles me. I've been wearing a 42L lately (lost a little bit of weight recently) and tried on topcoats in one store yesterday and their 40 was what fit me best over the 42L sports coat I was wearing. Go figure.


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## Orgetorix

My J Press polo coat mentioned above:


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## jamgood

Albert said:


> Is this style still available anywhere? I am considering to commission this with my HK tailor...
> 
> Cheers,
> A.


Not actually a "polo" coat. More of a great coat or steamer. Sans cuffs & patch pockets, a recent eBay pre-owned acquisition in alpaca pile, not "fur" (seller's photo). I'd previously acquired new ones in whipcord with alpaca pile lining and in small tattersall Scottish undyed homespun tweed with alpaca pile lining. Similar to the Polo below. I think the style is "Gothard" or some such.

From Invertere of Newton Abbot. Invertere may also make a similar coat with cuffs and framed-patch with flap pockets in various fabrics.

I thought Invertere was out of business, but that was corrected by its managing director on an AAAC post within the past year or so.

O'Connell's of Buffalo, NY had some Invertere stock last year.

AndySearch: invertere.










From Polo 30 years ago. "Officer's pink" wool gab with alpaca pile lining. At that time, it could have actually been made by Invertere.









Early '80s Polo polo









Early '80s Polo polo in Donegal herringbone tweed









Alan C has an Ulster collared vintage polo coat similar to this recent one by Arnys, Paris.









From Gentry Magazine, Winter 1951. Unidentified "Savile Row" polo. (Not the same as the California Gentry Mag.)

Same issue: "A full belted, double breasted polo coat tailored of camel's hair fabric, worn by Stephen Sanford"


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## AlanC

jamgood said:


> Alan C has an Ulster collared vintage polo coat similar to this recent one by Arnys, Paris.
> https://www.geocities.com/jamgoodwear/arnys6.jpg


You called?

Here it is from last winter:










Maybe Arnys saw that picture when I first posted it and tried to emulate it in the current collection.


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## Doctor Damage

Great stuff, Jamgood. I don't know where you find it, but it's always good.

DocD


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## vickysethi

*How to wear a polo coat*

nice collection of the pictures.but where the polo coat is different then normal overcoat


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## AlanC

*Polo coat defined*

This is what Bruce Boyer has to say in his chapter on the polo coat in _Elegance_, as he calls it "The Real Thing":



> And the requirements of the genre are explicit and strict: an authentic polo coat is double-breasted, full-length, and full-cut camelhair cloth; it has patch pockets, set-in sleeves, cuffs, and a half-belt.


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## Friedrichsen

jamgood said:


> Alan C has an Ulster collared vintage polo coat similar to this recent one by Arnys, Paris.


I love this style. Does anybody know where to acquire such a coat- It somehow remind me of the brooks-brothers one, but I haven't seen the back. The back is the best part of this coat


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## dks202

*Polo Coat*

Dang, it sure is a nice looking coat. I can't justify buying one for the climate in South Texas. I wore my topcoat exactly three times last winter. It just doesn't get cold enough here.


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## Binkie Baumont

Noel Coward in an _ever so_ smart Polo Coat


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## Oldsarge

I agree with dks, lovely coat but totally useless in this mild climate.


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## arkirshner

Still every Calif. man has one to for one he travels up north, doesn't he?


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## Penang Lawyer

When i was going to prep school Frank Costello , who lived on west 72nd street, wore that Polo coat and his borselino hat. He was always very dapper. Also many of the polo players in Westbury Long Island would wear them. One was always part of my wardrobe until we moved to FL.


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## wj_johnson

AlanC said:


> This is what Bruce Boyer has to say in his chapter on the polo coat in _Elegance_, as he calls it "The Real Thing":


I have one of these coats and I didn't know it was a polo coat. Nice!


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## wj_johnson

I have one of these coats and I didn't know it called a "polo coat". Nice!


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## Oldsarge

arkirshner said:


> Still every Calif. man has one to for one he travels up north, doesn't he?


Certainly if I had cause to travel up north in business dress that would be a plan. I am minded that the daughter intends to relocate to Portland. Perhaps I could justify one to allow visits when she does. After all, a conservation minded gentleman must keep an eye on the steelhead runs, don'tcherknow . . .


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## rbstc123

I own two, live in GA and don't walk to work. But I look dapper as hell when I wear them.


----------



## Doctor Damage

Toronto residents may be interested to learn that the Toronto BB store stocks the classic double-breasted polo coat in both Regular and Long lengths, priced at CDN$1500. I tried one on and it looked great, but I have to save up for a while before buying.


----------



## Doctor Damage

Vince Lombardi

https://postimg.org/image/tffdjnvxx/https://postimg.org/image/bss90jzdx/https://postimg.org/image/b7gnpff8b/https://postimg.org/image/h4cmk98ep/https://postimg.org/image/uuom946jr/https://postimg.org/image/5h252feer/


----------



## Doctor Damage

It's been brought to my attention that some of the older posts in this thread have inactive or lost photos. I'll do what I can be find and post what I posted before, plus add some new photos. I don't have links or references to them, so if your photo is here and you want credit, please say something. If you're a blogger or whoever, recycling other people's photos, then forget it! ha ha

https://postimg.org/image/bedv04wrj/


----------



## Doctor Damage

https://postimg.org/image/i81ewt2ur/


----------



## Doctor Damage

still the greatest polo coat in history (click for larger image)

https://postimg.org/image/mnmfit8zj/


----------



## Fading Fast

^^^ One can argue the politics and morals of those two forever, but there is no question that they knew, really, truly knew how to dress.


----------



## Balfour

Fading Fast said:


> ^^^ One can argue the politics and morals of those two forever, but there is no question that they knew, really, truly knew how to dress.


Exhibit A of the contrary case:


----------



## Fading Fast

Balfour said:


> Exhibit A of the contrary case:
> 
> View attachment 16013


I'm not going to defend that, but I will say that any great dresser - especially one like the DOW who pushed the style envelope - will have some great flops. I've seen pictures of Cary Grant in a kooky lapel-less sport coat that looks horrible. All the great ones swing and miss big sometimes.


----------



## williamson

Doctor Damage said:


> still the greatest polo coat in history...


But is this indeed a polo coat? To me it looks like a British Warm. Many of the pictures shown in this thread don't show the back of the coat; isn't it the presence of a belt or half-belt that would determine the issue? Also, did polo coats always have peak lapels?
The polo coat may have originated in Britain but it's hardly known here now.


----------



## Balfour

Fading Fast said:


> I'm not going to defend that, but I will say that any great dresser - especially one like the DOW who pushed the style envelope - will have some great flops. I've seen pictures of Cary Grant in a kooky lapel-less sport coat that looks horrible. All the great ones swing and miss big sometimes.


You're right of course. My antipathy to the late Duke is largely for reasons entirely unrelated to sartorial matters ...


----------



## Doctor Damage

williamson said:


> But is this indeed a polo coat? To me it looks like a British Warm. Many of the pictures shown in this thread don't show the back of the coat; isn't it the presence of a belt or half-belt that would determine the issue? Also, did polo coats always have peak lapels?
> The polo coat may have originated in Britain but it's hardly known here now.


British Warms, in their pure form, do not have cuffs and do not have patch pockets, plus they always button 6 buttons (usually leather wrapped) and the cloth is usually a grey, smooth (but thick) wool. See the definition which AlanC quotes above. They're a completely different animal. The Duke is wearing a polo coat, no question.


----------



## Doctor Damage

Some time back one of our members asked me to update the photos I posted early in this thread, the links for which are now mostly dead. I'm not sure I can re-create them, but it looks like it's going to be a slow holiday season for me, so I'll start posting many of the photos I've accumulated of polo coats, new and old, in no particular order or theme. I don't usually record sources/websites, sorry.

Here's a new photo; it looks a Ralph Lauren coat.

https://postimg.org/image/c1iajtkrp/


----------



## Doctor Damage

https://postimg.org/image/lsk7o2j2d/ https://postimg.org/image/805sruzud/


----------



## Doctor Damage

Richard Gere in costume for a film.

 https://postimg.org/image/eqma1bxat/ https://postimg.org/image/dbkpcmbn9/ https://postimg.org/image/5vlfqtvnp/


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## Doctor Damage

https://postimg.org/image/kesksiz5x/ https://postimg.org/image/hxgtla2et/


----------



## Doctor Damage

Old photos of Philip in a belted version, very much an old-school thing.

 https://postimg.org/image/f4nm16p6t/


----------



## Doctor Damage

Ian McKellen on-stage, and on-street.

https://postimg.org/image/4htsvlwf9/ https://postimg.org/image/cakgnlhtx/ https://postimg.org/image/s8t6e49lh/  [url=https://postimg.org/image/6i7heau45/]


----------



## Doctor Damage

Robert Mitchum in The Winds of War.

https://postimg.org/image/jdsc3fsh1/ https://postimg.org/image/mxe9t92wl/

Robert Mitchum in Yakuza (great film).

https://postimg.org/image/g6xsjtv6d/


----------



## Doctor Damage

Abel Morales in a scene from A Very Violent Year. Gotta love the twin W126 sedans!

https://postimg.org/image/ibi5l0c9h/  https://postimg.org/image/rlu9o34ud/ https://postimg.org/image/mn6r9kgh1/ https://postimg.org/image/r92vhx9px/  [url=https://postimg.org/image/wqim3f6f9/]


----------



## Doctor Damage

No comment.

https://postimg.org/image/de4kzicqt/ https://postimg.org/image/3tkycnak5/


----------



## Doctor Damage

BB coat, an older probably vintage version (since later models buttoned to 4 buttons only). This is definitely BB since there's a tag photo which goes with these photos.

 https://postimg.org/image/vmyhrk18l/ https://postimg.org/image/6toxqwpxx/

BB coat, the new/current one (shorter, different pockets, etc.). I think these photos were originally on Styleforum.

https://postimg.org/image/5rer8i4lh/ https://postimg.org/image/bfl1zew39/


----------



## Doctor Damage

Joseph V Reed (posted somewhere else in this forum, I think).

https://postimg.org/image/3mue7dso5/


----------



## Doctor Damage

Bob Geldoff in 1997 with his daughter. I can't find a larger version of this photo, unfortunately.

Here's some other photos of Geldof. It looks like a Ralph Lauren coat. Note the small button under the right lapel so the left lapel can be buttoned over in bad weather to close the coat.

https://postimg.org/image/4z87hi917/ https://postimg.org/image/yedvqjg5n/ https://postimg.org/image/t2yz5u1sr/


----------



## Doctor Damage

I like this ad. It's got a bunch of things I like: polo coat, wavy hair (on the dude), fierce looking blonde, first-gen Range Rover.

https://postimg.org/image/y5k6s8uol/


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## Doctor Damage

https://postimg.org/image/j9lnkp905/ https://postimg.org/image/le60lsq2d/ https://postimg.org/image/u96uwc205/ https://postimg.org/image/le60lsicl/ https://postimg.org/image/9p20xv1ol/


----------



## Doctor Damage

This is interesting: a serviceman modeling a polo coat.

https://postimg.org/image/535wpn5wl/


----------



## Doctor Damage

https://postimg.org/image/b43lmqv3p/


----------



## 215339

this thread is tempting me.

a long overcoat for casual usage has heavily appealed to me lately.


----------



## Doctor Damage

delicious_scent said:


> this thread is tempting me.
> 
> a long overcoat for casual usage has heavily appealed to me lately.


I think it's fair to say if you're going to own one long overcoat, then you might as well spend the extra dough and get a camel hair polo coat will all the features. They ain't cheap, but they're versatile and look great in both dress and casual getups.


----------



## akwmek

wow i like it!


----------



## Billax

I am a Trad forum guy who can't resist the opportunity to show off both of my all-Camelhair Polo coats. Thanks for the opportunity, Doctor Damage!



















Top: JAB
Bottom: J. Press

Harvard v Yale Football game fans in 1929... almost all the men in Polo Coats!









Polo game in the early 1920s where polo coats prevailed among players.


----------



## Green3

The new Brooks one looks fine, but I really like the full, traditional cut. In my opinion it’s a luxurious, indulgent piece and doesn’t suit being trimmed up. As Mike Ehrmantraur says, “no half measures”. 

I feel the same about overcoats in general. I watched Home Alone 2 with my younger daughter last Christmas. I think it was filmed around 1990 or so. That must have been a high water mark for billowy overcoats. I loved the look, and almost every man in the film was wearing one. Standard issue, no deviation. No car coats, no ski wear, no hybrid stuff. I grew up with those being the standard and my tastes haven’t changed. 

I managed to pick up a polo coat and a single breasted camel (overkill) for about $125 each from JAB on deep clearance.


----------



## Doctor Damage

Don't have the link for these photos but this man in the UK inherited this coat from his grandfather(?) who was an officer in WWI (?) or something like that.

https://postimg.org/image/ni3gdry5h/ https://postimg.org/image/z77g1rc9h/


----------



## Doctor Damage

Ralph Lauren advertising.

https://postimg.org/image/uzcnsvssl/ https://postimg.org/image/6633s8wxh/  https://postimg.org/image/4ea4xey5x/ https://postimg.org/image/pb6d23r1x/ https://postimg.org/image/ebl5qi8cl/ https://postimg.org/image/4sbgwlxkl/ https://postimg.org/image/4fk2qghvp/ https://postimg.org/image/rh0nw7p91/ https://postimg.org/image/cl24omt9x/  [url=https://postimg.org/image/scof3oykl/] https://postimg.org/image/y0upulamt/ https://postimg.org/image/e68o8haut/


----------



## Doctor Damage

https://postimg.org/image/ecv3jnmyd/ https://postimg.org/image/91g6yy8lh/


----------



## Doctor Damage

https://postimg.org/image/ecv3jopj9/


----------



## Doctor Damage

Peter O'Toole. The first three photos are him attending a premiere; the black and white photo is with his daughter; the last two photos are from the movie _My Favorite Year_, a rather obscure but very funny comedy worth seeing.

https://postimg.org/image/xmtduudmt/ https://postimg.org/image/5zgogr7vp/ https://postimg.org/image/orsjkb1p1/ https://postimg.org/image/8411huwnp/  [url=https://postimg.org/image/teylm64id/]


----------



## Doctor Damage

(random photos)

https://postimg.org/image/i1c2baenp/ https://postimg.org/image/mn86jnv1x/ https://postimg.org/image/npid27tat/ https://postimg.org/image/rae8l1d5h/  [url=https://postimg.org/image/q8422r9ud/] https://postimg.org/image/9x3y6g52d/ https://postimg.org/image/9x3y6gzxh/ https://postimg.org/image/9x3y6gzxh/ https://postimg.org/image/jhnktdcet/ https://postimg.org/image/y0upux30l/


----------



## Doctor Damage

Old school racetrack photo.

https://postimg.org/image/rn5mrg8cl/


----------



## Doctor Damage

I added a few more photos of Bob Geldof to my previous post a page or two back, it's clearly a PRL polo coat.


----------



## Doctor Damage

French actor Jean Gabin.

https://postimg.org/image/bk5cuetuz/ https://postimg.org/image/vg1c9gaqz/ https://postimg.org/image/57q7k5b8r/ https://postimg.org/image/wv2wy9z0b/ https://postimg.org/image/hmczkgfln/


----------



## JBierly

Nice resurrection of a post - and amazing that you also started this thread 11+ years ago. One sad issue - no one makes coats like this anymore at least not at a below the knee length. So if you can find a nice vintage coat you may be in luck. Otherwise forget it!


----------



## Doctor Damage

JBierly said:


> Nice resurrection of a post - and amazing that you also started this thread 11+ years ago. One sad issue - no one makes coats like this anymore at least not at a below the knee length. So if you can find a nice vintage coat you may be in luck. Otherwise forget it!


You're right about super-long floor-sweeping coats being a thing of the past and my instinct tells me we won't see their like again. I'm glad I picked up one of the last of BB's double-breasted long polo coats, just as they introduced the new shorter ones, even though I haven't worn it yet (I should sell it, but I'll never get what I paid, even though I got it on sale). Of course, with good proportions, a short overcoat doesn't have to be awful, and if you get in and out of cars a lot it can be convenient. Here's a short one (B&Tailor) which I think looks pretty good, mainly because it has good proportions and doesn't look like a long coat which has had the hems chopped off.

https://postimg.org/image/u476affxv/


----------



## Doctor Damage

https://postimg.org/image/50up3ufb7/


----------



## Green3

Are the PRL and O’Connell’s models still full length?


----------



## Doctor Damage

Green3 said:


> Are the PRL and O'Connell's models still full length?


Based on photos, yes, it appears so, although the PRL coat always came just below the knee (see below). The PRL one hasn't changed in years, although this year or maybe last year they added black watch tartan under the collar so when you flip the collar up you can see it, but honestly I don't believe in flipping up the collar so it's not a deal-killer.

https://postimg.org/image/xiyji8l0z/  https://postimg.org/image/x7h34zjv7/ https://postimg.org/image/k3bisc9tv/ https://postimg.org/image/6mek9h783/


----------



## JBierly

Green3 said:


> Are the PRL and O'Connell's models still full length?


I looked there as well as other places.


Doctor Damage said:


> Based on photos, yes, it appears so, although the PRL coat always came just below the knee (see below). The PRL one hasn't changed in years, although this year or maybe last year they added black watch tartan under the collar so when you flip the collar up you can see it, but honestly I don't believe in flipping up the collar so it's not a deal-killer.
> 
> https://postimg.org/image/xiyji8l0z/  https://postimg.org/image/x7h34zjv7/ https://postimg.org/image/k3bisc9tv/ https://postimg.org/image/6mek9h783/


But none of these are mid calf - I did find on the RL website a 45 3/4 body length coat but it isn't available.

https://www.ralphlauren.com/men-clothing-outerwear/polo-camel-hair-topcoat/406298.html


----------



## Doctor Damage

JBierly said:


> But none of these are mid calf - I did find on the RL website a 45 3/4 body length coat but it isn't available.


Mid-calf is more of an 80s/early 90s length (when everything was long) and just-below-the-knee is the proper non-fashion timeless length for a traditionally styled man's overcoat. It's a length which shows up again and again in real-world photo over the past decade. I have a feeling you're going to disagree, though.


----------



## Doctor Damage

Ralph Lauren (they did these in wool not just camel hair)

https://postimg.org/image/4tmkw06u3/ https://postimg.org/image/yljnb7gsr/ https://postimg.org/image/h89cwhb8r/


----------



## upr_crust

From Xmas Eve. I've had the coat at least a decade, hence the longer length, from Brooks Bros.


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## Doctor Damage

^ that's tremendous, uppercrust! that's the same coat I've got, thanks for posting!


----------



## akwmek

they look real nice!


----------



## Doctor Damage

Vince Lombardi in a double-breasted polo coat:

https://postimg.org/image/yde3es0uz/ https://postimg.org/image/bbxi923sb/ https://postimg.org/image/97d57z9vf/ https://postimg.org/image/yq5hl0oaj/ https://postimg.org/image/a9nbqkxuj/ https://postimg.org/image/ce7ornk1n/ https://postimg.org/image/n11hx4a7f/ https://postimg.org/image/if5dosr97/
https://postimg.org/image/hpmlcfyff/


----------



## Doctor Damage

Vince Lombardi in a single-breasted polo coat:

https://postimg.org/image/wyciqacp7/ https://postimg.org/image/gal0nspnf/ https://postimg.org/image/4lh0zu6ej/ https://postimg.org/image/irwrv2ozf/ https://postimg.org/image/kjpqpzg23/ https://postimg.org/image/scgehytqz/ https://postimg.org/image/nqka9n32z/ https://postimg.org/image/scgei041n/


----------



## eagle2250

^^How long has it been since we enjoyed seeing that kind of men's style on the sidelines? Today's coaches dress strictly AmJack!  Thanks for sharing those great pics.


----------



## never behind

eagle2250 said:


> ^^How long has it been since we enjoyed seeing that kind of men's style on the sidelines? Today's coaches dress strictly AmJack!  Thanks for sharing those great pics.


Big difference between that and the Hoodie.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Green3

Coaches have to wear NFL apparel.


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## JBierly

Green3 said:


> Coaches have to wear NFL apparel.


That is correct. "team apparel" This was visited by Nolan and Del Rio about 10 years ago with limited permission to wear suits.


----------



## JBierly

eagle2250 said:


> ^^How long has it been since we enjoyed seeing that kind of men's style on the sidelines? Today's coaches dress strictly AmJack!  Thanks for sharing those great pics.


Maybe Dan Reeves?


----------



## eagle2250

^^+1. 
Dan Reeves set/sets a great example of how they should dress on the sidelines! :happy:


----------



## Doctor Damage

upr_crust said:


> From Xmas Eve. I've had the coat at least a decade, hence the longer length, from Brooks Bros.
> 
> View attachment 19415


This is you many moons ago, right?

https://postimg.org/image/xgghphp57/


----------



## upr_crust

Doctor Damage said:


> This is you many moons ago, right?
> 
> https://postimg.org/image/xgghphp57/


Correct - from about ten years ago or more - more weight, facial hair, but still the same coat.


----------



## Doctor Damage

^ It's pleasing to see how the older version BB coats, which look a bit stiff right from the box (so to speak), look softer and more relaxed after use.


----------



## Doctor Damage

Here's the 12th Duke of Northumberland (now deceased) wearing what I always considered a polo coat, although much of it is hidden from view. But the cloth looks like camel hair, it has those welted seams (or whatever they're called) which are nearly only seen on polo coats, and it looks like a patch pocket on the right hip. The image is a scan from an old issue of Field magazine.

https://postimg.org/image/4ldjavijv/


----------



## Doctor Damage

an old BB polo coat (their vintage overcoats were often not fully lined)

https://postimg.org/image/wffxf7fq3/ https://postimg.org/image/dn42bpysb/ https://postimg.org/image/x4yprob5n/ https://postimg.org/image/8bp5r0kff/ https://postimg.org/image/o9xvh5u2z/


----------



## Doctor Damage

Some photos published today of Charles in his tweed polo coat, which he's had since the 1980s (see the last photo).

https://postimg.org/image/9wbj9neuj/ https://postimg.org/image/e5g9bvfjv/ https://postimg.org/image/5aff1cyh7/ https://postimg.org/image/l8o4rs32j/


----------



## Oldsarge

And it still fits him? Well done, that royal. I doubt that much I wore in the 80's would.


----------



## medwards

Oldsarge said:


> And it still fits him? Well done, that royal. I doubt that much I wore in the 80's would.


He has an excellent tailor!


----------



## Fading Fast

It looks like the same coat to me, but he is a royal, he might just have had another one made for him as he got older. I doubt his budget concerns resemble most of ours. 

Over the years, I would have had several items that I loved and wore out custom remade if I had had the budget.


----------



## JBierly

I think thats the same coat almost certainly. Among other things, the pockets look like they have had some wear and it really doesn't fit that well - the buttons are pulling a bit. Looks comfy though!


----------



## Doctor Damage

Forbes Burnham in London, 1966.

https://postimg.org/image/avil7cf57/ https://postimg.org/image/5wv2sv8sb/


----------



## Doctor Damage

From a Japanese website and/or company called Ring Jacket.

https://postimg.org/image/sim5gwtor/ https://postimg.org/image/423zmgviz/ https://postimg.org/image/ls5o7iojf/

Can't remember where I saw this (sorry). Looks like towelling, but it's not.

https://postimg.org/image/z92mqfol7/


----------



## Oldsarge

Interesting! That looks like Casentino cloth, an ancient, durable and surprisingly inexpensive weave from northern Italy. I had heard that it was coming back in style . . .


----------



## Fading Fast

The stitching on the sleeve (above the cuff) and the side pocket's odd border aren't working for me in what I'm sure is a very impressive coat overall.


----------



## 215339

Casentino always looks like an advanced stage of pilling to me.


----------



## Oldsarge

Well, yes. That's the whole concept. It can't pill any more because it already has.


----------



## Billax

Doctor Damage said:


> an old BB polo coat (their vintage overcoats were often not fully lined)
> 
> https://postimg.org/image/wffxf7fq3/ https://postimg.org/image/dn42bpysb/ https://postimg.org/image/x4yprob5n/ https://postimg.org/image/8bp5r0kff/ https://postimg.org/image/o9xvh5u2z/


Doctor, a minor correction to your post (well, maybe not so minor). The coat you show is NOT a Polo Coat. The three REQUIRED design elements of a Polo Coat are 1) double breasted, 2) roll back cuffs, and 3) half belt in the back. The pictures you are displaying have NONE of the required elements.


----------



## Fading Fast

Billax said:


> Doctor, a minor correction to your post (well, maybe not so minor). The coat you show is NOT a Polo Coat. The three REQUIRED design elements of a Polo Coat are 1) double breasted, 2) roll back cuffs, and 3) half belt in the back. The pictures you are displaying have NONE of the required elements.


Any opinion on the shoulders - set-in or raglan? Thank you


----------



## paxonus

Oldsarge said:


> Interesting! That looks like Casentino cloth, an ancient, durable and surprisingly inexpensive weave from northern Italy. I had heard that it was coming back in style . . .


I don't think it is true Casentino. This definitely is:


----------



## 215339

Oldsarge said:


> Well, yes. That's the whole concept. It can't pill any more because it already has.


ah ok, makes sense.

definitely not for me unfortunately.


----------



## Billax

Fading Fast said:


> Any opinion on the shoulders - set-in or raglan? Thank you


I can't say that there is an exclusive answer to your question, Sir, but I can say that Brooks Brothers, J. Press, and Ralph Lauren have universally had set-in shoulders on their Polo coats. Just for kicks, here's me in my J. Press Polo Coat:


----------



## Fading Fast

Billax said:


> I can't say that there is an exclusive answer to your question, Sir, but I can say that Brooks Brothers, J. Press, and Ralph Lauren have universally had set-in shoulders on their Polo coats. Just for kicks, here's me in my J. Press Polo Coat:


Thank you. That is a handsome coat and sweater.

I thought I had read once (don't remember where or when) that the "original" polo coats used to keep players warm on the sidelines had raglan sleeves because that made it easier for the players to get the coats on and off. But again, a vague memory with no sources to back it up.


----------



## paxonus

Fading Fast said:


> Thank you. That is a handsome coat and sweater.
> 
> I thought I had read once (don't remember where or when) that the "original" polo coats used to keep players warm on the sidelines had raglan sleeves because that made it easier for the players to get the coats on and off. But again, a vague memory with no sources to back it up.


https://www.keikari.com/english/a-history-of-the-polo-coat/

The polo coat is a beige double-breasted overcoat usually made with patch pockets, wide lapels, a half-belt, set-in sleeves, turnback cuffs and cut to reach the knees. It was first born in England as a wrap coat worn between breaks, or chukkers, in polo matches, casually thrown on the shoulders and closed with a same-fabric belt like a bathrobe.


----------



## Doctor Damage

Billax said:


> Doctor, a minor correction to your post (well, maybe not so minor). The coat you show is NOT a Polo Coat. The three REQUIRED design elements of a Polo Coat are 1) double breasted, 2) roll back cuffs, and 3) half belt in the back. The pictures you are displaying have NONE of the required elements.


But it does have patch pockets and is made from camel hair. I think you'll find your dogmatic, inflexible approach to "rules" is not supportable historically.


----------



## Oldsarge

IMO, there are no 'Rules' only suggestions.


----------



## StephenRG

Oldsarge said:


> IMO, there are no 'Rules' only suggestions.


That's an excellent suggestion


----------



## MTJim

I haven't been able to find a polo coat in my size for sale, so where can one get a coat made? I'm thinking more of a MTM than a bespoke.


----------



## Billax

Doctor Damage said:


> But it does have patch pockets and is made from camel hair. I think you'll find your dogmatic, inflexible approach to "rules" is not supportable historically.


Really? If I want to sell you a coaster wagon and advertise it as a "Ferrari 250 Short Wheelbase California with covered headlights" I doubt you'd pay me the $20 million I was asking if I delivered a red coaster wagon and argued it had four wheels so I had accurately represented the vehicle!

Thus, if you were to say "Billax, that's not a Ferrari 250 SWB California with covered headlights" and I responded, "You owe me twenty mil because, "I think you'll find your dogmatic, inflexible approach to rules is not supportable historically," you'd probably laugh at me. Since, in this case, the shoe is on the other foot, I hope you don't mind if a have a little chortle at your expense.


----------



## Fading Fast

paxonus said:


> https://www.keikari.com/english/a-history-of-the-polo-coat/
> 
> The polo coat is a beige double-breasted overcoat usually made with patch pockets, wide lapels, a half-belt, set-in sleeves, turnback cuffs and cut to reach the knees. It was first born in England as a wrap coat worn between breaks, or chukkers, in polo matches, casually thrown on the shoulders and closed with a same-fabric belt like a bathrobe.


Thank you - great article. Interesting (makes sense based on its function) that, in its true birthing, the coat didn't even have buttons, but clearly, as Billax noted, double-breasted is part of the iconic version. I wonder what my small brain is confusing regarding the sleeves as the article clearly puts my memory to shame.


----------



## Fading Fast

MTJim said:


> I haven't been able to find a polo coat in my size for sale, so where can one get a coat made? I'm thinking more of a MTM than a bespoke.


Ralph Lauren and Brooks will both do that, but you might have to wait until the end of summer when they start taking MTM orders with fall/winter fabrics. I think J.Press has a MTM program as well - but I've never tried it, so you'd have to check.


----------



## paxonus

Fading Fast said:


> Thank you - great article. Interesting (makes sense based on its function) that, in its true birthing, the coat didn't even have buttons, but clearly, as Billax noted, double-breasted is part of the iconic version. I wonder what my small brain is confusing regarding the sleeves as the article clearly puts my memory to shame.


I find this a much more appealing look than the DB. Is it a "polo coat"? Don't know, and don't care. The only thing I would add, were I having one made, is a turn-back cuff.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^^^

What is a _turn-back cuff_? Is it the same as a gauntlet cuff?


----------



## Fading Fast

paxonus said:


> I find this a much more appealing look than the DB. Is it a "polo coat"? Don't know, and don't care. The only thing I would add, were I having one made, is a turn-back cuff.


I agree. I respect that the iconic one is DB, but I like the cleaner line of the wrap, SB or a fly front (also, I'm 6'1" 150 lbs, I don't have the width to carry off a DB). And, yes, the turn-back cuff is a nice detail.

Small aside. I met Richard Gere several years ago (happenstance, I don't move in those circles or any circles of note). The guy wears clothes incredibly well. He is much shorter than I expected, but perfectly proportioned so his clothes just flow naturally on him.


----------



## Oldsarge

Yes.


----------



## 16412

Gauntlet is more outlandish. 
Turnback is rather simple.


----------



## Doctor Damage

https://postimg.org/image/rx44av5gb/ https://postimg.org/image/j23a0dbiz/


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## Doctor Damage

more Richard Gere, apparently the movie was called "Norman"

https://postimg.org/image/yvxs5xgvf/ https://postimg.org/image/po5jp8wyj/


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## Fading Fast

Doctor Damage said:


> more Richard Gere, apparently the movie was called "Norman"
> 
> https://postimg.org/image/yvxs5xgvf/ https://postimg.org/image/po5jp8wyj/


Disappointing movie (seen worse, but still) / outstanding coat.


----------



## Doctor Damage

Fading Fast said:


> Disappointing movie (seen worse, but still) / outstanding coat.


Good to know... the library has a copy so I'll borrow (for free).


----------



## Doctor Damage

I've been neglecting this thread. I'll try to post more pics soon.


----------



## Fading Fast

Watched the 1931 movie "The Front Page" the other day and one character had on a classic Polo coat - although, with raglan not inset sleeves (which, I think, is considered less classic) - but since he only wore it a few times and was only a supporting character, the best pics of it I could find were these few stills from the movie:


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## Doctor Damage

^ excellent find, Fading Fast!


----------



## Doctor Damage

Here's some famous tennis players from 1929, 1930, and 1933 respectively. The fourth one is unknown date, but late 20s/early 30s.

https://postimg.org/image/8msdqsls7/ https://postimg.org/image/x3ajl8zdj/  [url=https://postimg.org/image/7yjj7ezsn/]


----------



## Doctor Damage

Polo players.

https://postimg.org/image/zaes90zh3/ https://postimg.org/image/hkd3o1jc7/ https://postimg.org/image/rho4h2w2v/ https://postimg.org/image/db8dlv8d3/


----------



## Doctor Damage

Willie Mays


----------



## Fading Fast

Doctor Damage said:


> ^ excellent find, Fading Fast!


Thank you. Despite (as you guys all know to well) leaning heavily trad, I like raglan sleeves on a Polo coat better than set in ones as, IMHO, the coat flows and drapes more naturally that way, especially for what was, at least originally, a more casual coat adapted from the sports world - i.e., it shouldn't look too formal.


----------



## Fading Fast

Doctor Damage said:


> Here's some famous tennis players from 1929, 1930, and 1933 respectively. The fourth one is unknown date, but late 20s/early 30s.
> 
> https://postimg.org/image/8msdqsls7/ https://postimg.org/image/x3ajl8zdj/  https://postimg.org/image/7yjj7ezsn/





Doctor Damage said:


> Polo players.
> 
> https://postimg.org/image/zaes90zh3/ https://postimg.org/image/hkd3o1jc7/ https://postimg.org/image/rho4h2w2v/ https://postimg.org/image/db8dlv8d3/





Doctor Damage said:


> Willie Mays


Awesome pics. The coat really had its moment, didn't it. You know the men have gotten something right in style when the women are "stealing" it.

I've never owned a Polo coat (  they are expensive as heck and I've never been flush at the time the "right" one was available), but almost every girlfriend I've had has stolen and OCBD from me and, I bet, if I had one, would have wanted my Polo coat.


----------



## Doctor Damage

Fading Fast said:


> I've never owned a Polo coat (  they are expensive as heck and I've never been flush at the time the "right" one was available)...


I think you just need to decide you're going to get one and then save the money and buy one. I know that sounds flip, but I don't mean it that way. Also, if you're a Regular length then there's a lot of vintage ones on e-bay in decent condition.


----------



## Fading Fast

Doctor Damage said:


> I think you just need to decide you're going to get one and then save the money and buy one. I know that sounds flip, but I don't mean it that way. Also, if you're a Regular length then there's a lot of vintage ones on e-bay in decent condition.


Taken in the spirit of good will it was delivered in. That said, I think the window for a Polo coat has passed in my life as I transitioned my career from one of working at Wall Street firms to working for myself from home (still in finance, just a different direction and approach).

In my old role, I genuinely needed all the clothes - business suits, ties, shirts, shoes, coats, etc. - that we talk about here. Now, I have all but no need for them as, on most days, I never leave the apartment with ninety percent of my meetings being conference calls. Even for the small number of in-person meetings I have, most are in business-casual or all-casual attire (with traditional business dress discouraged by several of the companies I visit).

Presently, I have a closet full of unused business clothes and several overcoats that rarely see the light of day (and that's even after losing a chunk of my wardrobe to a storage room fire - yup). Unless I redirect my career again, I've committed to not buying clothes that I don't use (sounds silly, but old habits die hard) and only buy stuff that fits my present day lifestyle.

Hence, my enjoyment of business clothing today comes from reading about their history and talking about them here. If circumstances change, then I'm with you, until then, it's all just fun by proxy.


----------



## Doctor Damage

oh now I see what you mean, Fading Fast. yeah retirement puts an end to the 'need' for more clothing from what I hear.


----------



## Fading Fast

Doctor Damage said:


> oh now I see what you mean, Fading Fast. yeah retirement puts an end to the 'need' for more clothing from what I hear.


Sincerely not picking on your wording - just clarifying - but I'm not at all retired. I am quite active in business, but work from home and do most of my meetings via conference calls, so my need for business clothing has gone down by way over ninety percent.

And, as noted, I already have a closet full of business clothes; additionally, several of the firms that I do visit in person have said or hinted that they want to "project a youthful vibe" and prefer that their visitors come dressed casually (basically, some finance firms are trying to compete with tech for people so they are actively discouraging an "old" Wall Street look).

But, to your point, like a retired person, my need for new business clothes has, sadly, collapsed. While I save money, I truly miss updating a business wardrobe, getting excited about buying a new pair of dress shoes, ordering some tab collar shirts or picking out a new suit, etc. Oh well, I also don't have ninety percent of the office politics and BS, so I really can't complain.

And my girlfriend has a really nice Polo coat - so at least we have one in the house.


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## Doctor Damage

nice cashmere s-b coat, partially lined


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## Fading Fast

Doctor Damage said:


> nice cashmere s-b coat, partially lined


I can't believe Oxxford partially lined it to save money - that coat must have had quite a price tag, so any thoughts on why it would be partially lined?


----------



## Doctor Damage

Fading Fast said:


> I can't believe Oxxford partially lined it to save money - that coat must have had quite a price tag, so any thoughts on why it would be partially lined?


I believe it. I spend too much time on e-bay looking up old clothing and I've seen tons of older and vintage overcoats from BB and other brands of that calibre which are half-lined (like the one I posted) or even quarter-lined. Sometimes you see in old advertisements descriptions of half-linings, etc. I think it was just what they did in the old days. Also, the wool used in the old days was often thicker and denser (tighter weave esp) so a lining was less necessary. But these are just my assumptions. I do know that partial linings are more expensive or challenging to make, since you have to finish off all the edges and seams, which a liner would normally conceal.


----------



## Fading Fast

Doctor Damage said:


> I believe it. I spend too much time on e-bay looking up old clothing and I've seen tons of older and vintage overcoats from BB and other brands of that calibre which are half-lined (like the one I posted) or even quarter-lined. Sometimes you see in old advertisements descriptions of half-linings, etc. I think it was just what they did in the old days. Also, the wool used in the old days was often thicker and denser (tighter weave esp) so a lining was less necessary. But these are just my assumptions. I do know that partial linings are more expensive or challenging to make, since you have to finish off all the edges and seams, which a liner would normally conceal.


⇧ Good stuff.

We need a Bat Signal for MattS or Charles Dana to weigh in.


----------



## Doctor Damage

older BB s-b polo coat, this one has the half belt at back


----------



## Matt S

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Good stuff.
> 
> We need a Bat Signal for MattS or Charles Dana to weigh in.


I would be interested to know the reason for the partial lining. Perhaps it's for breathe-ability, since even overcoats can benefit from breathing. It's the wool shell that keeps us warm, not the lining. Or maybe it's to show off the quality of work.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Matt S said:


> I would be interested to know the reason for the partial lining. Perhaps it's for breathe-ability, since even overcoats can benefit from breathing. It's the wool shell that keeps us warm, not the lining. Or maybe it's to show off the quality of work.


I can't answer that, the ones Iv'e owned/own were and are all fully lined, circa 60's to present. back then they weighed a ton.

It's the wool shell that keeps us warm, not the lining.

I cannot agree with this completely. Not all unlined wool garments are windproof or damp proof. Years of experience afield has proven that to me especially in cold dank damp and outright foul weather. While pure wool has the ability to shed rain and snow to a degree, the dampness will reach your core in time. Give me a liner, a barrier from having that happen or at least prolong it from happening


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## Doctor Damage

Maybe the partial lining was a BB thing, since they once upon a time used to offer a lot of jackets and blazes without linings too.


----------



## JBierly

I agree that the partial lining is just to show off the quality of the work - finished seams and the like.


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## Doctor Damage

JBierly said:


> I agree that the partial lining is just to show off the quality of the work - finished seams and the like.


I think it was in the BB book Generations Of Style where I read that BB used to put their jackets/coats on the tables inside out so show the finished seams, etc. Ultimately, I think this topic is sorta like a lot of topics in the "men's style forums" in that it's something upon which too much significance is suspected. I think it's just the way BB did things in decades past, for reasons probably long forgotten.


----------



## Doctor Damage




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## Doctor Damage




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## Fading Fast

From the 1951 Film Noir movie "No Questions Asked." It's a decent Polo - DB, patch pockets, set in sleeves, but I couldn't find a good pic anywhere. This was the best I could do:









Also in the movie is the very rarely seen today reversible "wool on one side / cotton rain material on the other" coat (as worn, on the left, by a young Richard Anderson who would later play Oscar Goldman on "The Six Million Dollar Man").


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## Doctor Damage

^ never heard of that film noir, thanks for posting
here's a larger version of that publicity still


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## Fading Fast

Doctor Damage said:


> ^ never heard of that film noir, thanks for posting
> here's a larger version of that publicity still


Thank you that's a better version.

"No Questions Asks" is a decent noir, I posted these comments at Fedora Lounge:

*"No Questions Asked"*

A solid noir film that doesn't rise to the level of the great ones, but is all around good entertainment

The plot - an insurance company lawyer with a gold-digging girlfriend, desperate for cash, carves out a quasi-legal business buying stolen goods back from criminals for insurance companies which puts him in the crosshairs of the police - has a few good twists to keep you engaged

But the real hook is - as in many good noirs - watching a honest man move to the noir side [] by incremental steps - and all motivated by "the bad girl"

The movie has beautiful MGM sets, but would have had more realism / more _noirism_ with real street scenes

The movie works as straight story telling, but adjust your viewing angle and you'll see a "he chose the wrong woman" story staring you in the face
While the insurance lawyer throws it all away for a femme fatale who only wants him for what she can get out of him, he ignores the loves-him-for-himself co-worker who, sadly, becomes his doormat. Bad for her but good for us as it adds a layer of depth to this basic noir story


----------



## Doctor Damage

^ It's amazing how gritty some of those old b&w noir films are, they don't hold back!!


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## Fading Fast

Doctor Damage said:


> ^ It's amazing how gritty some of those old b&w noir films are, they don't hold back!!


Agreed and that's the cool thing. Noir movies show us the seedy, corrupt, immoral - the ugly - side of life that existed back when spit-shined musicals, upbeat screwball comedies and earnest "Life with Father" movies presented the other side of the story. And noir rose to become an art form itself - so much so, that it is a short-hand for a particular style of art and corner of life that goes well beyond its movie origins.

Plus, they usually have fantastic clothes, cars and architecture.


----------



## Doctor Damage

I asked my friend to provide details of how he washed his BB camel hair polo coat (the older longer version) and here's what he had to say:

_Warmish water.
Gentle soap, I think I used shampoo.
Once the water is covering the coat, just sort of swish it around gently, working any specific dirty spots a little more so.
Drain the old water. Run fresh water without soap/shampoo and swish around again. Drain once more. 
I then run the shower and flip the coat over to make sure any soapy water is washed away. 
Turn off the shower and let all water drain away.
Roll the coat and do your best to drain as much water away as possible. The coat will hold a lot!
Hang the coat on the shower curtain, it will be heavy but I let it drip a while.
Roll the coat in a large towel to remove some more water.
You can then hang the coat somewhere but be prepared as it will drip for a long time, hours even. 
Alternatively I suppose you could just lay it on a towel to avoid any potential shape alteration, but mine hasn't suffered from that issue. 
I've not really noticed much negative as a result. Perhaps the hem is a bit puckered in a couple of spots, but maybe you could iron it out, but I've not bothered with it.
Be careful with the back of the collar so that it is shaped properly while drying. 
I've done mine two or three times over the years and it is much softer as a result. 
Good luck and just use some common sense especially during the dripping/drying stage to keep its shape properly._

It's worked out for him, but this obviously does not constitute a recommendation that this approach would work for anyone else, nor is it a guarantee that you'll have similar success, etc. I post it here for info only.


----------



## Doctor Damage

screenshot from the recent film "War Dogs"


----------



## derum

Doctor Damage said:


> I asked my friend to provide details of how he washed his BB camel hair polo coat (the older longer version) and here's what he had to say:
> 
> _Warmish water.
> Gentle soap, I think I used shampoo.
> Once the water is covering the coat, just sort of swish it around gently, working any specific dirty spots a little more so.
> Drain the old water. Run fresh water without soap/shampoo and swish around again. Drain once more.
> I then run the shower and flip the coat over to make sure any soapy water is washed away.
> Turn off the shower and let all water drain away.
> Roll the coat and do your best to drain as much water away as possible. The coat will hold a lot!
> Hang the coat on the shower curtain, it will be heavy but I let it drip a while.
> Roll the coat in a large towel to remove some more water.
> You can then hang the coat somewhere but be prepared as it will drip for a long time, hours even.
> Alternatively I suppose you could just lay it on a towel to avoid any potential shape alteration, but mine hasn't suffered from that issue.
> I've not really noticed much negative as a result. Perhaps the hem is a bit puckered in a couple of spots, but maybe you could iron it out, but I've not bothered with it.
> Be careful with the back of the collar so that it is shaped properly while drying.
> I've done mine two or three times over the years and it is much softer as a result.
> Good luck and just use some common sense especially during the dripping/drying stage to keep its shape properly._
> 
> It's worked out for him, but this obviously does not constitute a recommendation that this approach would work for anyone else, nor is it a guarantee that you'll have similar success, etc. I post it here for info only.


I managed to avoid all the messy steps by taking mine to a dry cleaners.


----------



## Doctor Damage

derum said:


> I managed to avoid all the messy steps by taking mine to a dry cleaners.


Last year I had my oldest, best quality overcoat f-ed up by a dry cleaner so I'm a bit wary of such things now. But yeah, if you have a reliable dry cleaner, then it's the route to take unless you're a die-hard do-it-yourselfer.


----------



## Fading Fast

Doctor Damage said:


> Last year I had my oldest, best quality overcoat f-ed up by a dry cleaner so I'm a bit wary of such things now. But yeah, if you have a reliable dry cleaner, then it's the route to take unless you're a die-hard do-it-yourselfer.


While I'm a bit mixed on the younger generation's ticks and peccadilloes about suits and other dress clothes today (but glad that at least some subset of Millennials even cares enough to have irritating persnicketiness toward its clothes), I have noticed that, in NYC anyway, dry cleaners have been improving their game - and are more receptive to a conversation about how to press a suit, etc.; whereas, ten and more years ago, many would listen, smile and do what they wanted to anyway. The move to casual clothes has had to hurt their business, so they seem more willing to work with their shrinking client base.


----------



## 16412

Doctor Damage said:


> I asked my friend to provide details of how he washed his BB camel hair polo coat (the older longer version) and here's what he had to say:
> 
> _Warmish water.
> Ge
> ntle soap, I think I used shampoo.
> Once the water is covering the coat, just sort of swish it around gently, working any specific dirty spots a little more so.
> Drain the old water. Run fresh water without soap/shampoo and swish around again. Drain once more.
> I then run the shower and flip the coat over to make sure any soapy water is washed away.
> Turn off the shower and let all water drain away.
> Roll the coat and do your best to drain as much water away as possible. The coat will hold a lot!
> Hang the coat on the shower curtain, it will be heavy but I let it drip a while.
> Roll the coat in a large towel to remove some more water.
> You can then hang the coat somewhere but be prepared as it will drip for a long time, hours even.
> Alternatively I suppose you could just lay it on a towel to avoid any potential shape alteration, but mine hasn't suffered from that issue.
> I've not really noticed much negative as a result. Perhaps the hem is a bit puckered in a couple of spots, but maybe you could iron it out, but I've not bothered with it.
> Be careful with the back of the collar so that it is shaped properly while drying.
> I've done mine two or three times over the years and it is much softer as a result.
> Good luck and just use some common sense especially during the dripping/drying stage to keep its shape properly._
> 
> It's worked out for him, but this obviously does not constitute a recommendation that this approach would work for anyone else, nor is it a guarantee that you'll have similar success, etc. I post it here for info only.


Some of the old directions say to wash what needs to be washed (outside) and rinse from the inside out. Therefore, the least amount as possible. Armpit area, probably the opposite.

Shampoo? Might as well use conditioner, too.


----------



## Doctor Damage

Here's some photos from the film "Across 110th Street" in which the lead mafia character wears a d-b polo coat through most of the film. I can't find any better photos; it was a 6 buttoning 6 coat with a half-belt and folded back cuffs with the button (a la Press). The film is extremely gritty and bloody but extremely good and recommended for those wanting to see plenty of upper Manhattan location scenes and some good acting.


----------



## Doctor Damage

couple more pics from "War Dogs"


----------



## Doctor Damage

photos from the Ralph Lauren website


----------



## Doctor Damage




----------



## Fading Fast

Caught Margaret Lockwood wearing one in the underrated 1940 "Night Train to Munich" the other day. Sorry I couldn't find better pics, but I love that women were wearing them as well as the men.


----------



## Fading Fast

I stumbled on one more of our Miss Lockwood, but it's a good one:


----------



## Doctor Damage

^ I often think they look better on women than men, esp since with women's coats you can raise the waistline and go nuts with bigger lapels, belts, etc, to make them more 'luxurious' in appearance.


----------



## Fading Fast

Doctor Damage said:


> ^ I often think they look better on women than men, esp since with women's coats you can raise the waistline and go nuts with bigger lapels, belts, etc, to make them more 'luxurious' in appearance.


Smart observation that identified the tangible details behind my vague feelings.

It does take a strong personality - Lookwood has it - to carry those lapels off. On the wrong woman, that coat would be wearing her.


----------



## 215339

From the Spier & Mackay thread on styleforum


----------



## Fading Fast

Just stumbled across this (surfing the web in my rich, fulfilling life):


----------



## Doctor Damage

^ great photos guys, thanks for posting

Fading Fast: if you're a visual person and/or like clothes, then surfing the web for cool photos is an acceptable use of your free time!

Here's a grim photo: US Army chaplain in s-b polo coat visiting one of "the camps", presumably after hostilities ended.


----------



## SG_67

Highly stylized pose, but it looks cool nonetheless.


----------



## derum

The coat itself looks quite nice, but Ralph's people went a little weird in this ad...


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Doctor Damage

derum said:


> The coat itself looks quite nice, but Ralph's people went a little weird in this ad...


That ad dates from the 1990s, so it's a different aesthetic than we're used to today. Today they'd select a coat two sizes smaller so it's snug.


----------



## Doctor Damage

Prince Charles in 1991


----------



## Flanderian

Douglas Fairbanks -


----------



## SG_67

vga said:


> here i had few images


What???


----------



## Doctor Damage

vga said:


> here i had few images


Will you please delete your post? It has nothing to do with this thread.


----------



## Doctor Damage




----------



## Doctor Damage




----------



## upr_crust

Polo coats, as seen in the wild, in real life (at least in my real life). From December 5th and 6th, then . . .


----------



## SG_67

Doctor Damage said:


>


That last pic really captures the color and texture of the fabric. Absolutely beautiful!


----------



## Doctor Damage

upr_crust said:


> Polo coats, as seen in the wild, in real life (at least in my real life). From December 5th and 6th, then . . .
> 
> View attachment 26898
> View attachment 26899


Oh you lucky sob, you've got one of the BB tweed polo coats!!! I desperately wanted one but and couldn't afford one for the short time they offered them.


----------



## Doctor Damage

SG_67 said:


> That last pic really captures the color and texture of the fabric. Absolutely beautiful!


I've seen real close-ups of the cloth and it's a fairly loose-weave cloth and thin and probably not as warm as it looks (hence why Charles has flipped his collar up in some of the photos).


----------



## upr_crust

Doctor Damage said:


> Oh you lucky sob, you've got one of the BB tweed polo coats!!! I desperately wanted one but and couldn't afford one for the short time they offered them.


I was an extremely lucky SOB, I bought the tweed coat on sale at the warehouse sale they had at the Madison Avenue headquarters some nine or ten years ago - about 2/3 off, and a Xmas pannetonne thrown in free for good measure.


----------



## Doctor Damage

upr_crust said:


> I was an extremely lucky SOB, I bought the tweed coat on sale at the warehouse sale they had at the Madison Avenue headquarters some nine or ten years ago - about 2/3 off, and a Xmas pannetonne thrown in free for good measure.


oh FFS
I'm going to go have a sad now (as the kids say) lol


----------



## 16412

No breast pocket?


----------



## Doctor Damage

WA said:


> No breast pocket?


Most overcoats don't have breast pockets.


----------



## Matt S

Doctor Damage said:


> Most overcoats don't have breast pockets.


Most of mine do, including a British warm, a covert coat and a Chesterfield. And that's not just limited to my coats. On Polo coats it seems that it can go either way to have a breast pocket or not.


----------



## Doctor Damage

Matt S said:


> Most of mine do, including a British warm, a covert coat and a Chesterfield. And that's not just limited to my coats. On Polo coats it seems that it can go either way to have a breast pocket or not.


Quick look through my image bank and it appears that over time only Ralphie has done breast pockets on polo coats (that's my unscientific conclusion).


----------



## Doctor Damage




----------



## Fading Fast

I stole this pic and description from a Flanderian post on the Trad side of the house (full article here: https://www.artofmanliness.com/articles/back-to-college-wardrobe-from-1948/)








Wise choice for all-around university wear is the double-breasted camel's hair polo coat, which is perfect for traveling to and from school, for wear at the stadium over sport clothes and for week-end wear in town. You can even wear it over your dinner jacket at school. Worn for travel with a rough mixture felt hat, pigskin gloves, moccasin front brogues with rubber soles. Sturdy, well-built luggage is a good investment.


----------



## Fading Fast

Another stumbled-upon polo coat illustration:


----------



## Doctor Damage

Alain Delon in "La prima notte di quiete" (1972), also known as "Indian Summer" or "Le Professeur".


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Another stumbled-upon polo coat illustration:
> View attachment 27421


...and an artistic expression that proves chivalry is not, or at least was not dead when that illustration was created!


----------



## keerthi

Polo shirts are considered to be a grown-ups piece of clothing.

I will Like to break this myth and showcase some super cool and classy outfit inspiration with the polo shirt.

*The Simple Look*

_Plain Polo Shirt + Shorts(denim) + Flip flops/casual sneakers._ This look is perfect for a beach day or for a casual walk around the city exploring.

*Sharp Guy Look*

_ Polo shirt(sober color) + Dark wash denim + Leather Loafers. _Sharp guy look is the perfect outfit for a party, small get together and date night.

Do check out my website *MerakiFashionWear.*


----------



## Doctor Damage

(source: StyleForum article on some Italian fashion show, etc)


----------



## Fading Fast

How to wear one with panache (is that word still used?):








Jimmy Stewart, 1936


----------



## Doctor Damage




----------



## 215339

Doctor Damage said:


> View attachment 28307
> View attachment 28306


something looks a bit off about the proportions on this one to my eye.


----------



## Doctor Damage

delicious_scent said:


> something looks a bit off about the proportions on this one to my eye.


I know what you mean... the buttons are too close together horizontally. But I love the huge pockets, which retail bought coats never seem to have.


----------



## 215339

Doctor Damage said:


> I know what you mean... the buttons are too close together horizontally. But I love the huge pockets, which retail bought coats never seem to have.


Agreed, I do love the beastly pockets.


----------



## Fading Fast

Sir Noël Peirce Coward


----------



## Doctor Damage

Jonathan Winters in Germany in 1967.


----------



## Doctor Damage




----------



## Fading Fast

In 1942's *Larceny Inc.*, Jack Carson, a really big guy, wears a big polo coat with the confidence of man comfortable in his clothes. He also shows how, contrary to today's thinking, some clothes look right fitting in a "big" way. I tried, but couldn't find a full body shot, but these pics should give you some idea of how he looks in it.






















For fans of '40s style, the movie is full of suits, ties, overcoats, hats, etc. from the era. And since it stars Edward G. Robinson, despite being only an okay story, he makes it worth seeing.

My comments on the movie here: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...ovie-you-watched.20830/page-1143#post-2205362


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

^^
I firmly believe that is the best wearing of a Polo coat that I have seen. Thank you for sharing!


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## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> I firmly believe that is the best wearing of a Polo coat that I have seen. Thank you for sharing!


I've always thought Marylyn looked much better demurring or classically dressed than in the va-va-voom outfits she also wore.

In general, I'm a less-is-more guy, but also, Marylyn had such a strong womanly vibe, that downplaying it was more effective than emphasizing it.

Plus, that coat just looks freakin' great on her.


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## Doctor Damage

Mountbatten's son (I think)


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## Doctor Damage




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## Fading Fast

Van Johnson in the 1952 movie "The Invitation." It's a beautiful coat and shows up in several scenes, but unfortunately, these are the only two pics of it I could find:
















If you care, my comments on the movie: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...ovie-you-watched.20830/page-1336#post-2540688


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## Doctor Damage

^ good spot, thanks... I'm not coming up with anything other than extra-large versions of the photos you've posted... well written review, btw!


----------



## Fading Fast

Doctor Damage said:


> ^ good spot, thanks... I'm not coming up with anything other than extra-large versions of the photos you've posted... well written review, btw!
> 
> View attachment 30436
> 
> View attachment 30438


Good find on the larger versions. Thank you for the kind comment. Also, the female lead wears a polo coat as well - a bit stylish, less classic, but still impressive - unfortunately, I couldn't find any pics of it.


----------



## Doctor Damage

Here's a collection of overcoats posted on Fed Lounge by one of its members, I'm sure he won't mind me cross-posting it here. Beautiful polo coat in the middle.


----------



## Fading Fast

Doctor Damage said:


> Here's a collection of overcoats posted on Fed Lounge by one of its members, I'm sure he won't mind me cross-posting it here. Beautiful polo coat in the middle.
> 
> View attachment 30550


I'm not sure if I'm more jealous of his beautiful coat collection or his gorgeous wardrobe.


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## 16412

Sergei Rachmaninoff


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## Doctor Damage

WA said:


> Sergei Rachmaninoff


----------



## Fading Fast

Not quite a classic polo coat, but still an impressive garment and a cool old pic:


----------



## eagle2250

A great pic for sure, but it appears that the coat is wearing the man in that one. The gentleman could make better sartorial choices. However, he does look warm and cozy!


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## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> A great pic for sure, but it appears that the coat is wearing the man in that one. The gentleman could make better sartorial choices. However, he does look warm and cozy!


Good call.

While it was more of a style to have a very large coat in the '20s/'30s, I agree, that coat owns him. He appears to be on the short side and the coat looks too big in width for him, which only accentuates his shortness.

Properly sized and tailored, that's a heck of a coat though.


----------



## Doctor Damage

Fading Fast said:


> While it was more of a style to have a very large coat in the '20s/'30s...


Perhaps the biggest failing of the online style crowd is a lack of historical awareness. I'm not picking on Eagle, of course, I'm just making a general statement that's mostly true most of the time with most people. Clothing styles but especially proportions really have change a helluva lot over the decades.


----------



## 16412

Believe my grandad spoke of coats like that. Like ruffled shirts. Ideas come and go.
In a colder climate and people being outside in the weather I think the idea of that coat was for warmth that probably didn't work out so well. The way it fits it was probably custom made and how to fit in all the extra cloth the way it is would take a cutters skill. I don't believe it was made for a larger (overweight) person at all.


----------



## Doctor Damage

WA said:


> Believe my grandad spoke of coats like that. Like ruffled shirts. Ideas come and go.
> In a colder climate and people being outside in the weather I think the idea of that coat was for warmth that probably didn't work out so well. The way it fits it was probably custom made and how to fit in all the extra cloth the way it is would take a cutters skill. I don't believe it was made for a larger (overweight) person at all.


One of the warmest things I have is an old Harry Rosen heavyweight cotton house coat (as we call them) or dressing gown or whatever. It's quite thick and roomy and has a belt and extra-long sleeves and long skirts. It's too warm to wear in the house frankly, but outside it's surprisingly warm and I remember wearing it while helping to push someone who had slid their car off the road. Seeing that fuzzy polo coat posted by Fading Fast reminded me.


----------



## Fading Fast

John Dall wears a pretty classic and well-tailored Polo coat in 1950's "The Man Who Cheated Himself."

These are the best pics I could find of it.


----------



## SG_67

I watched again the Prohibition documentary by Ken Burns and thought it would be worth it to post a few examples from that time.


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## Doctor Damage

Fading Fast said:


> John Dall wears a pretty classic and well-tailored Polo coat in 1950's "The Man Who Cheated Himself."


You're right, photos are a bit thin on the ground. Here's a few more plus a clearer version of one you posted.


----------



## Fading Fast

Alan Ladd wears a well-tailored polo coat in "The Glass Key," but I could only find a few not-great pics:















My comments on the movie here:  #161


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## Doctor Damage

Interesting polo coat in a tartan, sort of like ones Ralphie used to do. All the details are there. Look beyond the "pieces of flair"!


----------



## Fading Fast

Doctor Damage said:


> Interesting polo coat in a tartan, sort of like ones Ralphie used to do. All the details are there. Look beyond the "pieces of flair"!
> 
> View attachment 34931
> View attachment 34929
> View attachment 34930


Hard to disaggregate, but yes, the element are there and love the length of it (kudos to you for seeing it).

I didn't know teeth could be that white.


----------



## Doctor Damage




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Doctor Damage

^ That's an amazing old Ralphia ad. Thanks for finding and thanks for posting!


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## Fading Fast

Doctor Damage said:


> ^ That's an amazing old Ralphia ad. Thanks for finding and thanks for posting!


Glad you like it.

I love the look, but know you have to look more like him than me to pull it off.


----------



## eagle2250

^^
Whom would I be to question PRL, but does anyone else see a touch of incongruence between the Deck Shoes and the rest of the rig? How about a nice pair of long wings?


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> Whom would I be to question PRL, but does anyone else see a touch of incongruence between the Deck Shoes and the rest of the rig? How about a nice pair of long wings?


I hear ya, but I like the incongruity of it. The entire outfit says to me, "I don't have access to my full wardrobe (I'm on vacation somewhere spectacular, living my spectacular life), so I just threw on some things that only kinda sorta go together, but work well 'cause I'm just that spectacular (kind of like Tom Brady's real life).

Kidding aside, the polo sweater, dress trousers, polo coat, no sport coat and boat shoes work in a thoughtful helter-skelter manner. But as implied earlier, maybe you have to be 6'6", 200 lean pounds, square jawed and have a net worth that's more than the GDP of most small countries to pull it off.


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## Doctor Damage

^ Polo coats were always one of the most casual types of overcoat, exceeded only by duffle coats, so I think it's fine to wear something other than a suit or tux under them. In fact I think they look best over a bulky sweater and turtleneck, etc.


----------



## Daveyboy

Along those lines, in the late 70’s at a certain Ivy League college in the greater Boston area, it was a thing to wear a Chesterfield overcoat with jeans and a sweater.


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## Fading Fast

I'm not sure this is a polo coat, but it has a polo coat look and feel.

Most importantly, what we can see is that one can wear it with insouciance, at least if one is super-cool Marlon Brando.


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## Doctor Damage

from one of the guys on Fed Lounge:


----------



## Mr. Moneypenney

How would one properly size a Polo Coat in comparison to a jacket? In other words,if a man knows the size of his jacket,pit-to-pit,shoulder seam-to-shoulder seam and sleeve length,how much of an oversized fit should the Polo Coat be?


----------



## Fading Fast

Mr. Moneypenney said:


> How would one properly size a Polo Coat in comparison to a jacket? In other words,if a man knows the size of his jacket,pit-to-pit,shoulder seam-to-shoulder seam and sleeve length,how much of an oversized fit should the Polo Coat be?


My experience has been that you should buy the same size in an overcoat that you wear in a suit as the overcoat should be cut to accommodate a suit underneath.

I've owned upwards of ten overcoats in the last three decades and they've all been in my suit size - 40L - and they've all fit well and had room for a suit underneath.

One of the keys to fit is making sure the coat's shoulders hit you well (on your proper shoulder line). If it doesn't, it's all but impossible to tailor it to fit correctly.

I've had a few salesmen over the years try to sell me a larger overcoat (a 41L or 42L) - when the store didn't have a 40L in stock - with the argument you "need more room for an overcoat."

When I've tried on the larger size, the coat sagged at the shoulders and looked off.

That's been my experience, I'm looking forward to what others say.


----------



## Mr. Moneypenney

Fading Fast said:


> My experience has been that you should buy the same size in an overcoat that you wear in a suit as the overcoat should be cut to accommodate a suit underneath.
> 
> I've owned upwards of ten overcoats in the last three decades and they've all been in my suit size - 40L - and they've all fit well and had room for a suit underneath.
> 
> One of the keys to fit is making sure the coat's shoulders hit you well (on your proper shoulder line). If it doesn't, it's all but impossible to tailor it to fit correctly.
> 
> I've had a few salesmen over the years try to sell me a larger overcoat (a 41L or 42L) - when the store didn't have a 40L in stock - with the argument you "need more room for an overcoat."
> 
> When I've tried on the larger size, the coat sagged at the shoulders and looked off.
> 
> That's been my experience, I'm looking forward to what others say.


Looking at various specs for different coat makers both current and vintage it seems hard to rely on anything but actual measurements of the various components,the sizing looks all over the spectrum.I also want to size the coat accurately to be able to wear casual outfits (no jacket) and have a decent fit.I am not sure where the relationship of a blazer pit-to-pit to coat pit-to-pit measurement and sleeve length relationship is desired to be.

I probably will have to slip on a blazer or two and try on various coats (none Polo coats) and see if I can get some measurements of of other Coats I have to get in the ballpark.


----------



## Fading Fast

Mr. Moneypenney said:


> Looking at various specs for different coat makers both current and vintage it seems hard to rely on anything but actual measurements of the various components,the sizing looks all over the spectrum.I also want to size the coat accurately to be able to wear casual outfits (no jacket) and have a decent fit.I am not sure where the relationship of a blazer pit-to-pit to coat pit-to-pit measurement and sleeve length relationship is desired to be.
> 
> I probably will have to slip on a blazer or two and try on various coats (none Polo coats) and see if I can get some measurements of of other Coats I have to get in the ballpark.


No question that a 40L or medium or 38S, etc., will have different actual measurements from different brands. Heck, even within a brand, measurements can vary - not every 40L suit at Brooks, for example, fits the same.

I applaud your approach. That said, I have found that while there is some variation, I've never bought anything but a 40L overcoat as the 42Ls (few brands go up by 1" in sizing anymore) are always just too large in the shoulders and that never looks good and can't really be altered.

Hence, whatever you do, try to ensure the coat you buy fits right in the shoulders.


----------



## Mr. Moneypenney

Fading Fast said:


> No question that a 40L or medium or 38S, etc., will have different actual measurements from different brands. Heck, even within a brand, measurements can vary - not every 40L suit at Brooks, for example, fits the same.
> 
> I applaud your approach. That said, I have found that while there is some variation, I've never bought anything but a 40L overcoat as the 42Ls (few brands go up by 1" in sizing anymore) are always just too large in the shoulders and that never looks good and can't really be altered.
> 
> Hence, whatever you do, try to ensure the coat you buy fits right in the shoulders.


Yes,the shoulder is what concerns me most for that reason. I wonder how much breathing room I should plan on between my widest shoulder jacket, the one with the most structure, and the new coat. I know I may be splitting atoms here because I would really like to not have it to be oversized to the point where it wouldn't look good with a casual outfit.
And also while I'm at it, if I were to go for a very good quality vintage item, would there be typically some material to work with to alter the sleeves if needed? I usually take a long size, because I have pretty long arms for my chest size. And how much longer would you consider it to be ideal for the coat sleeve to be in comparison to the Blazer sleeve?


----------



## Fading Fast

Mr. Moneypenney said:


> Yes,the shoulder is what concerns me most for that reason. I wonder how much breathing room I should plan on between my widest shoulder jacket, the one with the most structure, and the new coat. I know I may be splitting atoms here because I would really like to not have it to be oversized to the point where it wouldn't look good with a casual outfit.
> And also while I'm at it, if I were to go for a very good quality vintage item, would there be typically some material to work with to alter the sleeves if needed? I usually take a long size, because I have pretty long arms for my chest size. And how much longer would you consider it to be ideal for the coat sleeve to be in comparison to the Blazer sleeve?


As to the shoulders, I completely understand your point. That said, if you want a perfect-to-your eye fit both with a suit on and without one on, then you'll need two coats. For me, I find that if the overcoat fits well with the suit, I'm happy with the casual fit as casual outfits tend to be less exacting. Also, if it's overcoat weather, and I'm not wearing a suit or sport coat, I usually have a sweater on so that adds some bulk underneath. I believe a good fit with a suit (not too loose, in particular) will result in a decent casual outfit fit as well.

Like you, I buy longs and have long arms. When new, with longs, I've always had enough material as they always leave extra to extend a few inches. With vintage, the challenge is if the sleeves have already been shortened (and the tailor cut out some material) you won't be able to make the sleeves longer. Also, with vintage, depending on the age, even if you can lengthen the sleeve, you might have a noticeable line (and even a different shade to the the material at the end that was "let out").

Others will have different opinions, but I believe overcoats should cover your suit sleeve and extend down to a half inch or so past the wrist. It should not - again, in my opinion - fit like a suit jacket (which should be tailored to allow for, say, a half inch of shirt sleeve to show) as an overcoat's primary function is to provide warmth - thus, it should come down slightly past your wrist.


----------



## Doctor Damage

Mr. Moneypenney said:


> Yes,the shoulder is what concerns me most for that reason. I wonder how much breathing room I should plan on between my widest shoulder jacket, the one with the most structure, and the new coat. I know I may be splitting atoms here because I would really like to not have it to be oversized to the point where it wouldn't look good with a casual outfit.
> And also while I'm at it, if I were to go for a very good quality vintage item, would there be typically some material to work with to alter the sleeves if needed? I usually take a long size, because I have pretty long arms for my chest size. And how much longer would you consider it to be ideal for the coat sleeve to be in comparison to the Blazer sleeve?


If you're going with a vintage coat keep in mind that camel hair seems to attract moths more than regular wool, so you'll have to hunt longer to find one that's not been damaged. Also, vintage coats, at least from my idle e-bay watching over the years, seem to fit "smaller" than more modern coats of the same tag size, although the silhouette does change over time so today's slim fit coats are going to fit differently than 1990s coats and both will fit differently than vintage coats. Unless you have a really (really, really) good handle on measurements, I think it would be best for you to stump up the big $$ and buy new. You could easily spend hundreds on vintage coats and never get one that's just right.

The sleeve of an overcoat should be longer than your suit or blazer sleeve, such that the suit or blazer cuff never pokes out, even when you lift up your arms or wave them around. Most of StyleForum will disagree with me, since they seem to think overcoats should fit like suits except with longer skirts (barely), but they're wrong--overcoats are outerwear and should cover up everything.


----------



## Doctor Damage

Fading Fast said:


> As to the shoulders, I completely understand your point. That said, if you want a perfect-to-your eye fit both with a suit on and without one on, then you'll need two coats. For me, I find that if the overcoat fits well with the suit, I'm happy with the casual fit as casual outfits tend to be less exacting. Also, if it's overcoat weather, and I'm not wearing a suit or sport coat, I usually have a sweater on so that adds some bulk underneath. I believe a good fit with a suit (not too loose, in particular) will result in a decent casual outfit fit as well.
> 
> Like you, I buy longs and have long arms. When new, with longs, I've always had enough material as they always leave extra to extend a few inches. With vintage, the challenge is if the sleeves have already been shortened (and the tailor cut out some material) you won't be able to make the sleeves longer. Also, with vintage, depending on the age, even if you can lengthen the sleeve, you might have a noticeable line (and even a different shade to the the material at the end that was "let out").
> 
> Others will have different opinions, but I believe overcoats should cover your suit sleeve and extend down to a half inch or so past the wrist. It should not - again, in my opinion - fit like a suit jacket (which should be tailored to allow for, say, a half inch of shirt sleeve to show) as an overcoat's primary function is to provide warmth - thus, it should come down slightly past your wrist.


For the BB people, as you know I've got one of the last of the older BB polo coats, before then switched to the current model. I find that I can't fit any of my sports jackets (which have wide shoulders, admitedly) or even my O'Connells sack blazers under it around the shoulders and armpits. The polo coat just doesn't seem to have enough room to slide on or not bind or squeeze somehow, and I have to wrench it on and the shoulders of my jackets are clearly being squashed. Over a thick sweater though the polo coat is a great fit, which for me confirms it's a casual coat (and to be honest, it's probably better worn that way).


----------



## Fading Fast

Doctor Damage said:


> For the BB people, as you know I've got one of the last of the older BB polo coats, before then switched to the current model. I find that I can't fit any of my sports jackets (which have wide shoulders, admitedly) or even my O'Connells sack blazers under it around the shoulders and armpits. The polo coat just doesn't seem to have enough room to slide on or not bind or squeeze somehow, and I have to wrench it on and the shoulders of my jackets are clearly being squashed. Over a thick sweater though the polo coat is a great fit, which for me confirms it's a casual coat (and to be honest, it's probably better worn that way).


You made me think about something I hadn't considered. Do "skinny" overcoats fit over older, not-"skinny" suits of the same size?

Also, it would be interesting to try on a "skinny" overcoat over a "skinny" suit (of the same size) and see it that works - I assume it would, but the "skinny" trend has gotten so silly, it might not.

IMHO, there is a distinction between "skinny" and "slim." I like "slim" cut as I'm 6'1"/150lbs, but "skinny" is trendy and exaggerated. I have no trouble fitting any of my 40L suits (old or new) under my newest 40L overcoat (that I'd say is "slim," not "skinny," cut).


----------



## Doctor Damage

Fading Fast said:


> You made me think about something I hadn't considered. Do "skinny" overcoats fit over older, not-"skinny" suits of the same size?
> 
> Also, it would be interesting to try on a "skinny" overcoat over a "skinny" suit (of the same size) and see it that works - I assume it would, but the "skinny" trend has gotten so silly, it might not.
> 
> IMHO, there is a distinction between "skinny" and "slim." I like "slim" cut as I'm 6'1"/150lbs, but "skinny" is trendy and exaggerated. I have no trouble fitting any of my 40L suits (old or new) under my newest 40L overcoat (that I'd say is "slim," not "skinny," cut).


Full disclosure: most of my sports jackets are 90s jacket, big shoulders, lots of drape, etc, so no surprise that they're hard to accomodate. But I was surprised that my O'Connells sack blazers and one of my slim fitting sports jackets are also difficult to fit into my BB polo coat!


----------



## 215339

Never paid much attention to sleeve length of my coats.

With my overcoat, it hits at my wrist, though I haven't had any issues with warmth. It is designed for the sleeve to be alterable though.


----------



## Fading Fast

From 1919 (the caption said anyway):


----------



## Doctor Damage

^ amazing old illustration, thanks for finding and posting!


----------



## Fading Fast

From the 1939 movie *Bachelor Mother*:

First up, David Niven looking super cool in his Polo coat:
















Also, actor Frank Albertson in this Polo:








And actor Frank Albertson in another Polo:


----------



## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> From 1919 (the caption said anyway):
> View attachment 36501


I've always wondered why DB overcoats are rarely seen in this configuration. The neck line is much higher, keeping more warmth in.


----------



## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> I've always wondered why DB overcoats are rarely seen in this configuration. The neck line is much higher, keeping more warmth in.


Just a guess, overtime, style trumps practicality.


----------



## Fading Fast

In 1935's *Borderline*, Bette Davis briefly wears a polo coat (the movie takes place in Mexico, but she wears a fur coat and a Polo coat and I have no idea why other than that it looks Hollywood "glamorous").

What I love about this is that it shows that, early on, women were embracing this male garment. Also, she went full-in on with the wide lapels.

Unfortunately, I couldn't find a single picture that showed a full shot of the coat, but in the movie, it swept beautifully.


----------



## Doctor Damage

Fading Fast said:


> What I love about this is that it shows that, early on, women were embracing this male garment. Also, she went full-in on with the wide lapels.


Women look great in camel hair coats, but you almost never see them wearing them.


----------



## Doctor Damage




----------



## Fading Fast

Doctor Damage said:


> Women look great in camel hair coats, but you almost never see them wearing them.


I'm sure that's true where you are, but in NYC, I still see a decent number of women in camel hair overcoats - not Polo coats as we know them - but modern (slim cut, short) overcoats. I see more women in camel hair overcoats than men.


----------



## momsdoc

I just saw The Puple Rose of Cairo on TCM. Jeff Daniels is wearing a speculative real full length Polo Coat in it. He wears it well, and it’s a perfect Polo. 
I can’t find any decent images of him in it. If someone with better skills could find it, it’s outstanding. Stopped me dead in my tracks.


----------



## 215339

Doctor Damage said:


> View attachment 38457
> View attachment 38458
> View attachment 38456


I didn't like this one the first time I saw it due to the narrow wrap, but its really grown on me, it looks great.


Fading Fast said:


> I'm sure that's true where you are, but in NYC, I still see a decent number of women in camel hair overcoats - not Polo coats as we know them - but modern (slim cut, short) overcoats. I see more women in camel hair overcoats than men.


Yep, same here.


----------



## 215339

momsdoc said:


> I just saw The Puple Rose of Cairo on TCM. Jeff Daniels is wearing a speculative real full length Polo Coat in it. He wears it well, and it's a perfect Polo.
> I can't find any decent images of him in it. If someone with better skills could find it, it's outstanding. Stopped me dead in my tracks.


Can't find any decent images, but I can find meh ones.
























So here is Billax instead


----------



## Doctor Damage

delicious_scent said:


> I didn't like this one the first time I saw it due to the narrow wrap, but its really grown on me, it looks great.


Charles's overcoats and his suits all have a weirdly narrow overlap. It's just how he prefers it, I guess. I prefer a wider overlap but whatever.


----------



## Doctor Damage

delicious_scent said:


> Can't find any decent images, but I can find meh ones.


This seem to be best photo available, but it's large and detailed, so that's good. My quick interweb search came up with only the following additional screenshot, which appears to show that it's a wrap coat with a full belt tied in front.


----------



## Doctor Damage




----------



## Fading Fast

Rudolph Valentino


----------



## Doctor Damage




----------



## Fading Fast

Posted this pic in another thread and, then, noticed the polo coat the woman to the left was wearing:


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

MIght be a repeat, not sure.


----------



## Fading Fast

Cross post from the "Ralph [something I forget]" thread:


----------



## Fading Fast

Gig Young in 1943's "Old Acquaintance." Sorry for the poor pic quality.


----------



## Doctor Damage

Fading Fast said:


> Cross post from the "Ralph [something I forget]" thread:
> View attachment 43347


That is a most awesome photo! However, whenever I see photos like that I always think "none of these people have ever done a day's real work."


----------



## Fading Fast

Doctor Damage said:


> That is a most awesome photo! However, whenever I see photos like that I always think "none of these people have ever done a day's real work."


I have no idea about the other two (you may be quite right), but Ralph - from the articles I've read over the past 30 years and from a close friend who worked at Polo - is known as a very hard worker. He started Polo hustling ties from a suitcase and (at least until recently ) was very engaged in the day-to-day running of Polo - long hours, detail oriented on both design and finances, etc.

Also, the salesman I used for MTM, at the Madison Ave flagship, said Ralph traveled a ridiculous amount as he would "pop in" unannounced at stores all over the country and world regularly and, literally, go through the layouts, inventory and sales of the store. They said he knew his stuff - what was the new inventory, how it was moving, how displaying it differently mattered, what kind of sales that particular store should be generating, etc. He said this kept managers on their toes as, even though the odds were low, you never knew when Ralph might "pop in." And since Madison was in NYC and the flagship, he said Ralph was in the store often questioning, commenting, challenging, suggesting, etc. all the time.

Sincerely not picking on you, as I get the comment from the pic, and have no idea about the other guys, but at least from what I know, Ralph worked hard.


----------



## Guest

Fading Fast said:


> I have no idea about the other two (you may be quite right), but Ralph - from the articles I've read over the past 30 years and from a close friend who worked at Polo - is known as a very hard worker. He started Polo hustling ties from a suitcase and (at least until recently ) was very engaged in the day-to-day running of Polo - long hours, detail oriented on both design and finances, etc.
> 
> Also, the salesman I used for MTM, at the Madison Ave flagship, said Ralph traveled a ridiculous amount as he would "pop in" unannounced at stores all over the country and world regularly and, literally, go through the layouts, inventory and sales of the store. They said he knew his stuff - what was the new inventory, how it was moving, how displaying it differently mattered, what kind of sales that particular store should be generating, etc. He said this kept managers on their toes as, even though the odds were low, you never knew when Ralph might "pop in." And since Madison was in NYC and the flagship, he said Ralph was in the store often questioning, commenting, challenging, suggesting, etc. all the time.
> 
> Sincerely not picking on you, as I get the comment from the pic, and have no idea about the other guys, but at least from what I know, Ralph worked hard.


They are his brothers, actually.


----------



## Fading Fast

Guest-724616 said:


> They are his brothers, actually.


That's neat.


----------



## Fading Fast

Could be a dupe (and is a cross post with the "Ralph" thread):


----------



## Fading Fast

A man's and woman's Polo coat from the 1933 movie "King Kong." Sorry, these are the best pics I could find.


----------



## Doctor Damage

Guest-724616 said:


> They are his brothers, actually.


Seriously?? wow, yeah on second look there's a strong resemblance.


----------



## Doctor Damage

Fading Fast said:


> I have no idea about the other two (you may be quite right), but Ralph - from the articles I've read over the past 30 years and from a close friend who worked at Polo - is known as a very hard worker. He started Polo hustling ties from a suitcase and (at least until recently ) was very engaged in the day-to-day running of Polo - long hours, detail oriented on both design and finances, etc.
> 
> Also, the salesman I used for MTM, at the Madison Ave flagship, said Ralph traveled a ridiculous amount as he would "pop in" unannounced at stores all over the country and world regularly and, literally, go through the layouts, inventory and sales of the store. They said he knew his stuff - what was the new inventory, how it was moving, how displaying it differently mattered, what kind of sales that particular store should be generating, etc. He said this kept managers on their toes as, even though the odds were low, you never knew when Ralph might "pop in." And since Madison was in NYC and the flagship, he said Ralph was in the store often questioning, commenting, challenging, suggesting, etc. all the time.
> 
> Sincerely not picking on you, as I get the comment from the pic, and have no idea about the other guys, but at least from what I know, Ralph worked hard.


Ralphie has definitely earned the right to dress however he wants and I respect business owners who actually sweat the details. I just saw the pic and had my usual visceral reaction against the dandy crowd!


----------



## Fading Fast

Usually, I'd grumble about this or that in his outfit, but heck, he's a young man wearing a Polo coat. As dress attire fades away, I'm just glad for any young person wearing classic clothes. And is that a flap on the breast pocket of the Polo? I've have seen Ralph put one on his Polo coat offerings from time to time (as in a pic a few up).


----------



## Fading Fast

Barbara Bel Geddes rockin' a Polo coat in 1947's "The Long Night" (comments on movie here: #409 )


----------



## Fading Fast

Cross post with the Ralph thread:


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Cross post with the Ralph thread:
> View attachment 47451


The coat is very nice, but the neck scarf is just wrong. A pale blue scarf would be a better choice.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> The coat is very nice, but the neck scarf is just wrong. A pale blue scarf would be a better choice.


I think Ralph was going for a retro collegiate vibe. To wit, the scarf has a kinda school-scarf feel (see Harvard's scarf below) and, we know, the Polo coat was, in the '30s - '50s, a go-to overcoat for fans at college football games. Even the model looks the right college-student age.

That's just how it struck me anyway. That said, while the coat is pretty, something about it - the fit, the nap of the material or something else - looks off to me.

A Harvard University scarf:


----------



## Doctor Damage

Assistant U.S. Attornies for the Southern District of New York John Sevarese, Michael Chertoff, and Gilmore Childers pose outside courthouse after winning Commission trial November 19, 1986.


----------



## Fading Fast

The title of this thread is "How To Wear a Polo Coat"

It took us 18 pages, but I think Rock Hudson, in 1969's "A Fine Pair," provided us with the ultimate answer as he wrapped Claudia Cardinali inside his Polo coat:






















That is how you wear a Polo coat.


----------



## Oldsarge

It lacks Claudia Cardinali but the cap is nice.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 47796
> 
> 
> It lacks Claudia Cardinelle but the cap is nice.


Buh, buh, buh, there's no pretty girl wrapped inside. 

Kidding aside, nice looking coat.


----------



## Oldsarge

This could double in the tweed thread.


----------



## Doctor Damage

Material Girl


----------



## Fading Fast

Tennis great Alice Marble:


----------



## A.L.Z.

Where is the classic polo coat still available today? That's well-made, good materials? The Brooks Brothers one retailing now is cheaply constructed.

I know the color is wrong, but how does this one look? Also, it lacks a lining. Which may be all the rage in Italian tailoring today, but somehow seems odd on a classic coat.


----------



## some_dude

So I think I own a Polo Coat, and I didn't even know that's what it was called! Mine is dark grey, but is otherwise basically what I'm seeing here-- knee length, double-breasted, prominent lapels. I always just called it an overcoat.

Or is a "Polo Coat" by definition a light color?


----------



## EclecticSr.

some_dude said:


> So I think I own a Polo Coat, and I didn't even know that's what it was called! Mine is dark grey, but is otherwise basically what I'm seeing here-- knee length, double-breasted, prominent lapels. I always just called it an overcoat.
> 
> Or is a "Polo Coat" by definition a light color?


In fact sounds like you have an overcoat.
Some criteria,---------Do you play Polo?
Do you own a string f Poloponys? Do you know who Jackie Gleason was? 
Are you familiar with camel hair? Did you know a camel is a horse designed by a committee ? 
Are you well enough heeled to afford vicuna? ----Know who William Holden was ?
Were you born before 1950? ----Do you consider anyone born before that year a non dude?
Can you name two locales in the U.S where the sport is played? Polo, pay attention.
Do you speak Argentinian?------ I Confess, I do not. 
Can you name at least one prominent figure who wore a Polo coat on a field of sport?

Another,often confusing to some, outerwear garment , is the Chesterfield. 
Are you of good nature , enough to at least have a chuckle?
Have a great day.


----------



## Fading Fast

some_dude said:


> So I think I own a Polo Coat, and I didn't even know that's what it was called! Mine is dark grey, but is otherwise basically what I'm seeing here-- knee length, double-breasted, prominent lapels. I always just called it an overcoat.
> 
> Or is a "Polo Coat" by definition a light color?


Almost nothing is ever definitive, but this article will give you a pretty good guide to check your coat against:
https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/polo-coat/


----------



## some_dude

Thanks. It appears that what defines a "Polo Coat" is camelhair, regardless of the color. My coat, alas, is wool and cashmere. From what I can see, it is simply a business overcoat. Which is fine with me-- that's generally how I use it, anyway.


----------



## some_dude

EclecticSr. said:


> In fact sounds like you have an overcoat.
> Some criteria,---------Do you play Polo?


No.



> Do you own a string f Poloponys? Do you know who Jackie Gleason was?


No. Yes. We're goin' to the moon, baby! Also the inspiration for the air conditioning in the Mercedes Benz 600 series.

Did Jackie own a polo coat?



> Are you familiar with camel hair? Did you know a camel is a horse designed by a committee ?


Somewhat. Yes.



> Are you well enough heeled to afford vicuna? ----Know who William Holden was ?


No. Yes, absolutely! One of my favorites.



> Were you born before 1950? ----Do you consider anyone born before that year a non dude?


Definitely not! Anyone born before 1950 is a geezer, everyone knows that!



> Can you name two locales in the U.S where the sport is played? Polo, pay attention.


West Linn, Oregon and Palm Desert, CA.



> Do you speak Argentinian?------ I Confess, I do not.


No, but my brother owns a house in Argentina. And I think there is a polo ground somewhere nearby, but not sure.



> Can you name at least one prominent figure who wore a Polo coat on a field of sport?


Prince Charles?



> Are you of good nature , enough to at least have a chuckle?
> Have a great day.


Definitely! You as well.

How'd I do?


----------



## Fading Fast

Cross post with the Trad Illustration Thread:


----------



## EclecticSr.

some_dude said:


> No.
> 
> No. Yes. We're goin' to the moon, baby! Also the inspiration for the air conditioning in the Mercedes Benz 600 series.
> 
> Did Jackie own a polo coat?
> 
> Somewhat. Yes.
> 
> No. Yes, absolutely! One of my favorites.
> 
> Definitely not! Anyone born before 1950 is a geezer, everyone knows that!
> 
> West Linn, Oregon and Palm Desert, CA.
> 
> No, but my brother owns a house in Argentina. And I think there is a polo ground somewhere nearby, but not sure.
> 
> Prince Charles?
> 
> Definitely! You as well.
> 
> How'd I do?





some_dude said:


> No.
> 
> No. Yes. We're goin' to the moon, baby! Also the inspiration for the air conditioning in the Mercedes Benz 600 series.
> 
> Did Jackie own a polo coat?
> 
> Somewhat. Yes.
> 
> No. Yes, absolutely! One of my favorites.
> 
> Definitely not! Anyone born before 1950 is a geezer, everyone knows that!
> 
> West Linn, Oregon and Palm Desert, CA.
> 
> No, but my brother owns a house in Argentina. And I think there is a polo ground somewhere nearby, but not sure.
> 
> Prince Charles?
> 
> Definitely! You as well.
> 
> How'd I do?


You did well.


----------



## some_dude

I have to say, this thread does make me want a polo coat!


----------



## EclecticSr.

some_dude said:


> I have to say, this thread does make me want a polo coat!


And so you should, just don't settle for a phony, get a real deal polo. You will not regret it, happy hunting.


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ I agree with this advice. There are some things that are fine to "try out" in a less-expensive version and some clothes, to this day, that owing to my lifestyle (what a pompous word, sorry) that it makes no sense for me to buy the expensive versions of, but if you really want a classic Polo coat, save up, study up on what you want, take your time finding the right one, pay the price and expect to have and enjoy it for decades.

A little inspiration ( a cross post from the Ralph thread):


----------



## Oldsarge

This looks like a chap who owns an entire polo club all by himself.


----------



## EclecticSr.

I doubt a man of means if he only owned a few polo ponies would display such affectation as a white stitched unbuttoned button hole as the wearer does. I could be wrong.


----------



## Fading Fast

Tennis great Senorita Lizana at Hurlingham . 8 May 1936


----------



## Fading Fast

Cross post with the Ralph thread:


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast

Cross post with the Ralph thread:


----------



## some_dude

I like the below-the-knee length in the ad above!


----------



## EclecticSr.

some_dude said:


> I like the below-the-knee length in the ad above.
> 
> When will we get to see you in a real polo coat. Nice example above, even with the flap breast pocket.
> I doubt it will be long before you succumb.


----------



## Fading Fast

some_dude said:


> I like the below-the-knee length in the ad above!


I think the aesthetic and logic of a polo coat - any traditional overcoat - argues for a below-the-knee length.


----------



## Fading Fast

A couple from "Esquire" from 1936 (cribbed from @Flanderian):


----------



## jackcatscal

some_dude said:


> No.
> 
> No. Yes. We're goin' to the moon, baby! Also the inspiration for the air conditioning in the Mercedes Benz 600 series.
> 
> Did Jackie own a polo coat?
> 
> Somewhat. Yes.
> 
> No. Yes, absolutely! One of my favorites.
> 
> Definitely not! Anyone born before 1950 is a geezer, everyone knows that!
> 
> West Linn, Oregon and Palm Desert, CA.
> 
> No, but my brother owns a house in Argentina. And I think there is a polo ground somewhere nearby, but not sure.
> 
> Prince Charles?
> 
> Definitely! You as well.
> 
> How'd I do?


Polo is also big in San Diego. Specifically, Rancho Santa Fe, where the terribly wealthy live.


----------



## jackcatscal

Years ago


some_dude said:


> Thanks. It appears that what defines a "Polo Coat" is camelhair, regardless of the color. My coat, alas, is wool and cashmere. From what I can see, it is simply a business overcoat. Which is fine with me-- that's generally how I use it, anyway.


Years ago, when I lived in DC, I bought a polo coat at the Georgetown University Shop (RIP). It's a blend of camel hair and wool, which Gentleman's Gazette recognizes as legitimate. (It makes the coat less delicate and more resistant to wear.) Although I've kept it for all these years, since I've lived in Los Angeles and San Diego since the mid-eighties, I've had little opportunity to wear it. I do take it out of its protective cocoon every couple of years to reminisce, however.


----------



## Fading Fast

This is from a 1930s Esquire magazine ad. The real reason I posted is because, on the right, it has a great example of a Polo coat in a non-traditional color and pattern:


----------



## Fading Fast

This came in my email today from Paul Stuart. While Paul Stuart is not calling it a Polo coat, it certainly has most of the Polo coat features: double-breasted, patch pockets, wide lapels, a half-belt, set-in sleeves and turn-back cuffs. To be sure, it isn't camel hair, but still, looks and feels very Polo coat-ish to me. Being Paul Stuart, it comes in yellow, red and green and none of those colors are muted, they are true YELLOW, RED and GREEN.








































https://www.paulstuart.com/phineas-...tml?dwvar_82470001-N300_color=N710&quantity=1


----------



## 215339

I'd wear that red one.


----------



## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> I'd wear that red one.


I have enough trouble being taken seriously when not dressed as a comic-strip character, but if you've got the presence, then, definitely, go for it.

Kidding aside, it's a bit much for me, but I can see some people pulling it off without a problem.


----------



## StephenRG

Fading Fast said:


> This came in my email today from Paul Stuart. While Paul Stuart is not calling it a Polo coat, it certainly has most of the Polo coat features: double-breasted, patch pockets, wide lapels, a half-belt, set-in sleeves and turn-back cuffs. To be sure, it isn't camel hair, but still, looks and feels very Polo coat-ish to me. Being Paul Stuart, it comes in yellow, red and green and none of those colors are muted, they are true YELLOW, RED and GREEN.
> 
> https://www.paulstuart.com/phineas-...tml?dwvar_82470001-N300_color=N710&quantity=1


I thought this thread was called "how to wear a polo coat", rather than "how not to wear a polo coat" 

The yellow one put me in mind of Dick Tracy's coat in the execrable 1990 film.


----------



## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> I have enough trouble being taken seriously when not dressed as a comic-strip character, but if you've got the presence, then, definitely, go for it.
> 
> Kidding aside, it's a bit much for me, but I can see some people pulling it off without a problem.


Yep, I wouldn't buy it for the reasons you've mentioned.

If it somehow flew into my backyard, I wouldn't sell it. I'd treat it as a "special" coat and tone down everything else I wore.


----------



## Fading Fast

StephenRG said:


> I thought this thread was called "how to wear a polo coat", rather than "how not to wear a polo coat"
> 
> The yellow one put me in mind of Dick Tracy's coat in the execrable 1990 film.


Not just saying it, I had the same thought which is why I made my "comic-strip character" comment later.

Paul Stuart does its own thing and that thing gets more "fashion-y" in the Phineas Cole line.

I look at it this way: PS still has some very nice - high-end - updated versions of classic along with its more "out there" stuff. But I'm just glad it's there doing its thing as it's a fun part of the menswear universe even if I rarely want or buy items from it.

When other stores went casual / mass market - Abercrombie and Brooks, for example - PS went higher end and bold. Might not often be my thing, but really glad somebody's putting out expensive and creative versions of classic menswear.

Take a look in this beautiful and not at all "out there" Phineas Cole suit @upr_crust is wearing today ( #2,879) . So, yes, PS, as you accurately imply, puts out some on-the-edge styles, but they also put out gorgeous versions of the classics like Upr's suit.

N.B. I'd bet @upr_crust could wear this coat with style in any of those colors.


----------



## upr_crust

Fading Fast said:


> Not just saying it, I had the same thought which is why I made my "comic-strip character" comment later.
> 
> Paul Stuart does its own thing and that thing gets more "fashion-y" in the Phineas Cole line.
> 
> I look at it this way: PS still has some very nice - high-end - updated versions of classic along with its more "out there" stuff. But I'm just glad it's there doing its thing as it's a fun part of the menswear universe even if I rarely want or buy items from it.
> 
> When other stores went casual / mass market - Abercrombie and Brooks, for example - PS went higher end and bold. Might not often be my thing, but really glad somebody's putting out expensive and creative versions of classic menswear.
> 
> Take a look in this beautiful and not at all "out there" Phineas Cole suit @upr_crust is wearing today ( #2,879) . So, yes, PS, as you accurately imply, puts out some on-the-edge styles, but they also put out gorgeous versions of the classics like Upr's suit.
> 
> N.B. I'd bet @upr_crust could wear this coat with style in any of those colors.


You know, FF, there are days that I think that you're tailing me  .

As it happens, I also received e-mail notices about the newest items in for this season, including the Phineas Cole rendition of a polo coat in Casentino cloth, a classic Florentine fabric specifically used for hunting gear. The two most traditional colors for Casentino cloth are the orange-red and the green - the orange for men (as hunting jackets today are made in orange, for safety), the green for women, though I am sure that those distinctions are now quite dead, and the cloth is made in other colors as well.

I stopped by the store last week, intrigued by the coats, and did try on one of the green ones. I will say that the coats are well-cut, albeit running on the small side (I had to size up one size from my normal suit size in order to fit comfortably into the coat), but the styling is great. Whether I will be so daring as to purchase one of these coats remains to be seen - they come in the orange, the green and a shade of mustard yellow (French's, with a dash of Grey Poupon).


----------



## StephenRG

upr_crust said:


> You know, FF, there are days that I think that you're tailing me  .
> 
> As it happens, I also received e-mail notices about the newest items in for this season, including the Phineas Cole rendition of a polo coat in Casentino cloth, a classic Florentine fabric specifically used for hunting gear. The two most traditional colors for Casentino cloth are the orange-red and the green - the orange for men (as hunting jackets today are made in orange, for safety), the green for women, though I am sure that those distinctions are now quite dead, and the cloth is made in other colors as well.
> 
> I stopped by the store last week, intrigued by the coats, and did try on one of the green ones. I will say that the coats are well-cut, albeit running on the small side (I had to size up one size from my normal suit size in order to fit comfortably into the coat), but the styling is great. Whether I will be so daring as to purchase one of these coats remains to be seen - they come in the orange, the green and a shade of mustard yellow (French's, with a dash of Grey Poupon).


Did the Casentino have the traditional wolf-fur collar?


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Fading Fast said:


> This came in my email today from Paul Stuart. While Paul Stuart is not calling it a Polo coat, it certainly has most of the Polo coat features: double-breasted, patch pockets, wide lapels, a half-belt, set-in sleeves and turn-back cuffs. To be sure, it isn't camel hair, but still, looks and feels very Polo coat-ish to me. Being Paul Stuart, it comes in yellow, red and green and none of those colors are muted, they are true YELLOW, RED and GREEN.
> 
> View attachment 49534
> View attachment 49535
> View attachment 49536
> 
> 
> View attachment 49543
> View attachment 49544
> 
> 
> https://www.paulstuart.com/phineas-...tml?dwvar_82470001-N300_color=N710&quantity=1


Yipes. (The unofficial Trad take.)


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> This came in my email today from Paul Stuart. While Paul Stuart is not calling it a Polo coat, it certainly has most of the Polo coat features: double-breasted, patch pockets, wide lapels, a half-belt, set-in sleeves and turn-back cuffs. To be sure, it isn't camel hair, but still, looks and feels very Polo coat-ish to me. Being Paul Stuart, it comes in yellow, red and green and none of those colors are muted, they are true YELLOW, RED and GREEN.
> 
> View attachment 49534
> View attachment 49535
> View attachment 49536
> 
> 
> View attachment 49543
> View attachment 49544
> 
> 
> https://www.paulstuart.com/phineas-...tml?dwvar_82470001-N300_color=N710&quantity=1


Paul Stewart could not discount that coat sufficiently to convince me to buy one in any one of those three colors. While the coats design is decidedly masculine, to my eye those colors appear decidedly feminine. Guess I'm just not that socially/sartorially courageous! LOL. :crazy:


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

eagle2250 said:


> Paul Stewart could not discount that coat sufficiently to convince me to buy one in any one of those three colors. While the coats design is decidedly masculine, to my eye those colors appear decidedly feminine. Guess I'm just not that socially/sartorially courageous! LOL. :crazy:


And the price tag would get you a real camel polo at O'Connell's with enough change for a Southwick suit or tweed jacket and maybe a couple of shirts!


----------



## some_dude

If there are two things I've learned from this thread, they are that first, a polo coat should be elegant, and second it should be camel hair.

Those Paul Stewart coats are neither.


----------



## Fading Fast

Cross post with the "Tweed" thread:


----------



## Fading Fast

Polo 2020 (cross post with the Ralph thread):


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Polo 2020 (cross post with the Ralph thread):
> View attachment 49731


The coat is indeed memorably handsome, but I feel a very real disturbance in the force when some fool wears a Rugby or collared knit polo shirt over an OCBD. Jeez Louise, Ralph, if your going to layer up to stay warm, at least wear the OCBD over the Rugby/polo shirt.


----------



## Doctor Damage

Fading Fast said:


> This came in my email today from Paul Stuart. While Paul Stuart is not calling it a Polo coat, it certainly has most of the Polo coat features: double-breasted, patch pockets, wide lapels, a half-belt, set-in sleeves and turn-back cuffs. To be sure, it isn't camel hair, but still, looks and feels very Polo coat-ish to me. Being Paul Stuart, it comes in yellow, red and green and none of those colors are muted, they are true YELLOW, RED and GREEN.
> 
> https://www.paulstuart.com/phineas-...tml?dwvar_82470001-N300_color=N710&quantity=1


True polo coat in terms of shape, details, proportions... quite perfect in fact. But those colours are insane. The rough fabric is not totally out of line for what is one of the most casual of overcoat designs and the cloth of the Ralphie coats is kinda roughish as your last photo shows.


----------



## drpeter

Agreed. The colours are very unusual, and I am wondering if there is a reason for this other than fashion, as @upr_crust suggests: Traditional colours for hunters and for women. That still leaves the mustard yellow without a rationale. Perhaps it is a traditional colour in Florence for engineers, LOL.


----------



## Fading Fast

Cross post with the Ralph thread. I'm guessing we've posted this before in this thread, but just in case we haven't, I'm putting it up today. I really like it with the turtleneck.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Cross post with the Ralph thread. I'm guessing we've posted this before in this thread, but just in case we haven't, I'm putting it up today. I really like it with the turtleneck.
> View attachment 50112


Indeed I recall that distinctive flap on the breast pocket of Ralph's coat. However it is well worth a second look!


----------



## Doctor Damage

eagle2250 said:


> Indeed I recall that distinctive flap on the breast pocket of Ralph's coat. However it is well worth a second look!


It's sort of an older detail, from what I've seen, mostly on "sportier" overcoats like polo coats. You sometimes see that detail on vintage covert coats (from the UK) too.


----------



## Doctor Damage




----------



## some_dude

Can a polo coat be herringbone? I was under the impression it had to be camelhair.


----------



## peterc

And, where can you still buy one? RL, I know, but that seems to be it.

The BB version is gone, at least for now.


----------



## Oldsarge

This probably isn't a true polo but I don't know where else to post it.


----------



## peterc

It's a nice coat, but too short and I don't care for open topped patch pockets.


----------



## 215339

peterc said:


> It's a nice coat, but too short and I don't care for open topped patch pockets.


I know I've been championing wanting a longer coat lately, but they have their disadvantages too.

They get in the way, and are a pain when getting in and out of cars.

The SB coat up there looks fairly balanced for its length.


----------



## some_dude

delicious_scent said:


> I know I've been championing wanting a longer coat lately, but they have their disadvantages too.
> 
> They get in the way, and are a pain when getting in and out of cars.
> 
> The SB coat up there looks fairly balanced for its length.


I love long coats. I usually take it off when I am in the car and put it in the back seat. When I get out, I put it on. However, I'm probably in a warmer climate than you are, and I'm often going from my garage at home to my garage at work.

My complaint with coats these days is that they are too short. I want to have coats which come down to my knees.


----------



## EclecticSr.

peterc said:


> And, where can you still buy one? RL, I know, but that seems to be it.
> 
> The BB version is gone, at least for now.


 You can try Spier and Makay, I ordered the brown herringbone and awaiting it's arrival. 
Lord knows I don't need another but the pattern and color caught me.


----------



## peterc

The RL one is gone too...Why it still shows up on the RL site is a mystery - it is sold out in every size!


----------



## Dhaller

delicious_scent said:


> I know I've been championing wanting a longer coat lately, but they have their disadvantages too.
> 
> They get in the way, and are a pain when getting in and out of cars.
> 
> The SB coat up there looks fairly balanced for its length.


The trick to enjoying a polo coat in a car is for the car to be a convertible and to drive on a cold winter's day with the top down.

(I was visiting a friend in Vienna once - during the winter - who drives a Ferrari roadster (or spider as it's called if it's a Ferrari), and without even commenting on it he just drove us around with the top down. Pretty cold, especially at Ferrari speeds. I wrapped a whole cashmere sweater around my neck as a muffler, but a polo coat would have been welcomed.)

DH


----------



## Fading Fast

Dhaller said:


> The trick to enjoying a polo coat in a car is for the car to be a convertible and to drive on a cold winter's day with the top down.
> 
> (I was visiting a friend in Vienna once - during the winter - who drives a Ferrari roadster (or spider as it's called if it's a Ferrari), and without even commenting on it he just drove us around with the top down. Pretty cold, especially at Ferrari speeds. I wrapped a whole cashmere sweater around my neck as a muffler, but a polo coat would have been welcomed.)
> 
> DH


I don't know if this was more common IRL in the '30s - '50s, but in the movies from the '30s - '50s, you see people driving in convertibles in the winter with the top down all the time.


----------



## some_dude

Driving a convertible in the winter with the top down and the heat on is one of the great joys in life!


----------



## Dhaller

some_dude said:


> Driving a convertible in the winter with the top down and the heat on is one of the great joys in life!


Agreed... with the right kit!

(As they say in Sweden, "there is no bad weather, only bad clothing.")

DH


----------



## 215339

Bad memories of nearly getting frostbite when deciding to walk to a friend's house come to mind.

I'll definitely pass!

I was taught a valuable lesson to wear a beanie/toque and not go without a hat after that. I sometimes listen.


----------



## Doctor Damage

I was surprised to see a polo coat today (in a dark grey herringbone).


----------



## AlphaOmega

Isn't that a bridge cost?


----------



## Doctor Damage

AlphaOmega said:


> Isn't that a bridge cost?


No, this is a polo coat. Bridge coats are coats for USN officers and senior petty officers. They're black with shoulder straps and big gold buttons, and a much different cut/silhouette.


----------



## 215339

Doctor Damage said:


> I was surprised to see a polo coat today (in a dark grey herringbone).
> 
> View attachment 53696
> View attachment 53695


The lines of what makes a true Polo Coat seem difficult to distinguish. I've seen this style referred to as an ulster before, but the pockets are definitely polo coat.

The postbox/mailbox pockets are the only "definitive" details that come to mind for me.

I'm going to post a bunch of overcoats that are close to being a polo coat in my head, and then others that have polo coat details, but stray farther.


__
http://instagr.am/p/CIsTMfnL1Ji/

























Derek, from the Die, Workwear blog, has the Duke's coat as his ideal polo coat due to the dropped buttoning point adding slouchiness. I do think this looks best, but that's a mostly exposed torso, would be pretty bad for winter.










@Doctor Damage Do you have "definitive details" that make a polo coat, a polo coat in your mind?


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## Doctor Damage

delicious_scent said:


> The lines of what makes a true Polo Coat seem difficult to distinguish. I've seen this style referred to as an ulster before, but the pockets are definitely polo coat.
> 
> The postbox/mailbox pockets are the only "definitive" details that come to mind for me.


My general ticklist is the following:
- patch pockets (not necessarily "mailbox")
- cuffs
- belt (either full belt or more commonly a half-belt at the back)
- those special raised seams (can't remember the name, anyone?)
- camel hair or a heavy tweed
- usually double-breasted*

* BB and J Press and others did single-breasted versions which don't have all the details but if they're in camel-hair and have patch pockets then I don't argue


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## Doctor Damage

I won't identify these people but the man in the middle with the hard case is wearing what looks like the older BB single-breasted polo coat (the scarf is BB, so...), now discontinued. It was longer than the current version and didn't have cuffs or a half-belt at the back, but they were in camel-hair and had patch pockets and those special seams. I wish I had one.


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## 215339

Doctor Damage said:


> My general ticklist is the following:
> - patch pockets (not necessarily "mailbox")
> - cuffs
> - belt (either full belt or more commonly a half-belt at the back)
> - those special raised seams (can't remember the name, anyone?)
> - camel hair or a heavy tweed
> - usually double-breasted*
> 
> * BB and J Press and others did single-breasted versions which don't have all the details but if they're in camel-hair and have patch pockets then I don't argue


I've seen those seams referred to as "swelled edges" or "lapped seams"


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## some_dude

Absolutely not a polo coat. Read back in the thread. That's a dark gray overcoat-- and a nice looking one at that-- but not a polo coat. A polo coat must be camelhair, and a tan color.



Doctor Damage said:


> I was surprised to see a polo coat today (in a dark grey herringbone).
> 
> View attachment 53696
> View attachment 53695


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## Doctor Damage

some_dude said:


> Absolutely not a polo coat. Read back in the thread. That's a dark gray overcoat-- and a nice looking one at that-- but not a polo coat. A polo coat must be camelhair, and a tan color.


Dude, in my opinion it is. See my list from yesterday. Is camel-hair and tan colour your only criteria? Would any overcoat qualify as a polo coat as long as it was in camel-hair and tan coloured? What if I showed you a bunch of black-and-white illustrations of overcoats? Would you be able to identify different styles/types by the proportions and details, or do those things not matter?


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## some_dude

Doctor Damage said:


> Dude, in my opinion it is. See my list from yesterday. Is camel-hair and tan colour your only criteria? Would any overcoat qualify as a polo coat as long as it was in camel-hair and tan coloured? What if I showed you a bunch of black-and-white illustrations of overcoats? Would you be able to identify different styles/types by the proportions and details, or do those things not matter?


I guess we can call it anything we want. Maybe we should call it a blazer instead?

If not camelhair and tan, how would you define a polo coat, as opposed to a plain overcoat, or a car coat, or any of the other outerwear coats?


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## some_dude

I should amend my response-- while tan is usually the color, it isn't always. But camelhair is a requirement.

See this link, with an exhaustive article about Polo coats:

https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/polo-coat/

The key sentence is here: "Since Polo Coats were always made of camel's hair, some people referred to it as Camel's Hair Coat, which became a synonym for Polo Coat."


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## A.L.Z.

Doctor Damage said:


> I won't identify these people but the man in the middle with the hard case is wearing what looks like the older BB single-breasted polo coat (the scarf is BB, so...), now discontinued. It was longer than the current version and didn't have cuffs or a half-belt at the back, but they were in camel-hair and had patch pockets and those special seams. I wish I had one.
> 
> View attachment 54644
> View attachment 54645


Thanks for posting this!

Yes I recognize the man in the middle.

It is a nice coat, but that is not really a single breasted polo overcoat. It could even be cashmere, despite the curved patch pockets.

Here is James Stewart in 1958 wearing a SB polo. Notice the cuffs. 
I can't find a FL version of him wearing this, but pretty sure there is no half-belt.


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## Fading Fast

A.L.Z. said:


> Thanks for posting this!
> 
> Yes I recognize the man in the middle.
> 
> It is a nice coat, but that is not really a single breasted polo overcoat. It could even be cashmere, despite the curved patch pockets.
> 
> Here is James Stewart in 1958 wearing a SB polo. Notice the cuffs.
> I can't find a FL version of him wearing this, but pretty sure there is no half-belt.


Here's a brief clip from the movie showing off the coat - you are spot on as there's no belt:






BTW, I saw this movie, "Bell, Book and Candle," recently and posted these comments on it:  #548


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## Doctor Damage

^ / ^^ For what it's worth, from my days trawling e-bay for stuff like this I never saw a single-breasted polo coat with a half-belt at the back, always plain, irrespective of recent or vintage.


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## Doctor Damage

A.L.Z. said:


> Thanks for posting this!
> 
> Yes I recognize the man in the middle.
> 
> It is a nice coat, but that is not really a single breasted polo overcoat. It could even be cashmere, despite the curved patch pockets.


That lawyer is wearing Brooks Brothers older version of their single-breasted polo coat, in camel hair, which they sold alongside their double-breasted model. I have the double-breasted version. I have a bunch of 15+ year old catalogues and both models are shown in them, plus I have images I saved from BB's website of both coats (below), so I recognize it. You may not agree that it's a polo coat, but you can take that up with BB.


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## Doctor Damage

Here's a video that mashes together a bunch of scenes of Alain Delon in the film "Indian Summer." The polo coat he wears in the film gets a lot of screen time in this video. Worth a viewing (4 min duration).


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## Doctor Damage

vintage advertisements


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## Fading Fast

Wouldn't be surprised it this was posted before, but if not, thought it kinda fit in this thread.


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## Fading Fast

On TCM right now is the movie "Act One" from 1963 (I have it on mute in the background) in which George Hamilton wears the below double-breasted, half-belted Polo coat. Sorry I couldn't find better pics - it's a pretty darn impressive looking coat.


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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> On TCM right now is the movie "Act One" from 1963 (I have it on mute in the background) in which George Hamilton wears the below double-breasted, half-belted Polo coat. Sorry I couldn't find better pics - it's a pretty darn impressive looking coat.
> View attachment 62272
> View attachment 62273


A great looking coat, for sure, but I almost didn't recognize George Hamilton without his signature dark tan! Based on the date Act One came out, this must have been shot'BtT' or before the tan! LOL.


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## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> A great looking coat, for sure, but I almost didn't recognize George Hamilton without his signature dark tan! Based on the date Act One came out, this must have been shot'BtT' or before the tan! LOL.


Like you, having first known the tan 1970s and on Hamilton, a bit of a cartoon version of himself, it's interesting to see him as a real actor back in his early films.


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## Fading Fast

Richard Barthemess from the 1934 movie "Midnight Alibi."


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