# Who makes the best shell cordovan shoe?



## upnorth (Jun 18, 2007)

I think it is a well established fact that Alden is the *best known* shoemaker for shell cordovan but who makes the best?


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## Teacher (Mar 14, 2005)

There is no answer to this question, very literally. All shell cordovan is produced by Horween (Ron Rider showed some Japanese-produced shell quite a while back, but I've never heard of it being used in production shoes in the west). The shell, it has been established, does get graded, but the grades have to do with holes and other flaws, not overall quality of the leather. This means that, for the customer*, shell is shell. Therefore, the best maker of shell shoes _for you_ is the maker that provides the fit, styles, and/or color** you like.

*The clicker, however, must deal with cutting around the flaws and holes. Generally speaking, it does not appear that these flaws get left in for the final products from any maker, American or European.

**It has also been established that Alden recolors its #8 to make it redder than typical #8. AE, C&J, Vass, etc. do not recolor their #8. Which rendition of #8 you like is, of course, completely up to you.


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## whomewhat (Nov 11, 2006)

Teacher: A brilliant thread killing answer if ever there was one, and I mean this with the highest respect. There is nothing like the perfect answer. I suppose members could post examples (pictures) of some of their shell collections, but as with all shoes, some will prefer Lobb, others Edward Green, or Crockett & Jones, Lattanzi, Vass, and the list goes on.


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## Aaron in Allentown (Oct 26, 2007)

I think what this person is asking is which shoemaker makes the best shell cordovan shoes, asserting that, perhaps, Alden is only the best known maker of shell cordovan shoes.


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## kolecho (Nov 15, 2004)

In RTW, I would say Vass, hands down.


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## whomewhat (Nov 11, 2006)

I recently passed on a pair of vintage Crockett & Jones shell in new condition that I am still kicking myself over. I make no claim that Crockett & Jones makes the best, just that this pair was spectacular and I wish I had pulled the trigger.


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## LeatherSOUL (May 8, 2005)

I'm waiting for a couple pairs of EGs in shell. Will report about them when they arrive. Till then, Alden and Carmina are my choices.


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## yachtie (May 11, 2006)

LeatherSOUL said:


> I'm waiting for a couple pairs of EGs in shell. Will report about them when they arrive. Till then, Alden and Carmina are my choices.


That's NEWS! I thought EG wouldn't work in shell. Please post 'em when they come in.


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## fritzl (Jun 5, 2006)

kolecho said:


> In RTW, I would say Vass, hands down.


They are very experienced in this field and get my vote.


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## qwerty (Jun 24, 2005)

*EG shell cordovan*

Not my shoes, but here's a pair of EG Asquiths in shell. The picture is a bit too professional to actually show that these are SC, but it's a start (I am looking forward to seeing yours, Tom!):


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## Concordia (Sep 30, 2004)

LeatherSOUL said:


> I'm waiting for a couple pairs of EGs in shell.


This is either great news or a fiendishly cruel practical joke.


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## thinman (Jan 21, 2005)

LeatherSOUL said:


> I'm waiting for a couple pairs of EGs in shell. Will report about them when they arrive. Till then, Alden and Carmina are my choices.


Tom, please share with us which models you expect to get. Can EGs in shell be special-ordered through you (I assume they are available by special order only)?


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## Eustace Tilley (Sep 23, 2007)

Concordia said:


> This is either great news or a fiendishly cruel practical joke.


I suspect this is Top Drawer.


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## Rossini (Oct 7, 2007)

The Vass catalogue devotes significant attention to cordovan. From what I've read, they're definitely a front-runner.


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## LeatherSOUL (May 8, 2005)

Concordia said:


> This is either great news or a fiendishly cruel practical joke.


No joke.



thinman said:


> Tom, please share with us which models you expect to get. Can EGs in shell be special-ordered through you (I assume they are available by special order only)?


Ordered the Beaulieu in #8 for myself and a few others. Special orders OK, but not really sure how much I can push it. I don't want to bombard them with orders and have them tell me NO.



Eustace Tilley said:


> I suspect this is Top Drawer.


Not TD, regular MTO.


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## cdavant (Aug 28, 2005)

For those of you following the used shoe/foot doctor thread, I pointed out I picked up a couple of pairs of too well worn shells, like an old Imperial, and sent them directly off for refurbishing. It's truly amazing how well old shell returns from the dead--and I'm always looking for a pair of ancient Aldens in #8 secure in the knowledge that--although made up north, like the South they will rise again.


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## Kingstonian (Dec 23, 2007)

Surely there must be some Spanish Cordovan leather suppliers in existence ?

It originated from Cordoba after all.

I would prefer a long wingtip style - MacNeil etc. Crockett & Jones cordovan styles are not as appealing


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## Concordia (Sep 30, 2004)

Something like this 

has potential in shell. It's not a style you see at all.


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## 68chevy (Oct 20, 2007)

I bought my first pair of Alden shell recently and I think they are wonderful.


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## The Deacon (Nov 25, 2006)

The best constructed, thickest shell I ever saw was a pair of NOS Hanover Shell cordovan longwings in size 7D. I bought them from ebay for $24 and I received them with the original plastic wrapping and 1987 order/packing slip that was sent to the gentleman from hanover shoe co. as well as the card extolling the virtues of shell corodvan. the sole was 1/2 inch and heal 1 1/4 inches. WOT A SHOE!


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## Rich (Jul 10, 2005)

Concordia said:


> Something like this
> 
> has potential in shell. It's not a style you see at all.


Church's do their Grafton in cordovan (they call it crup) : https://www.herringshoes.co.uk/prod...6&shoeID=133&selectedSizeID=0&selectedFitID=0


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## the etruscan (Mar 9, 2007)

I know my wallet and the patches on some of my jeans are made of Japanese shell. I can compare once I get my SF forum specials, but I think the wallet faces abuses shoes never will (back pocket in raw/nearly raw denim = indigo colored), and vice versa.

I've heard that there are a handful of French suppliers of Shell. Anyone know anything about this?


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## billiebob (Apr 20, 2005)

I really like my 2 pairs of Grenson for Paul Stuart shell shoes (black captoe bal and #8 blucher), though I don't know if PS carries shell shoes other than loafers anymore.


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## Infrasonic (May 18, 2007)

the etruscan said:


> I've heard that there are a handful of French suppliers of Shell. Anyone know anything about this?


You mean they don't eat the skin :devil:


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## Franko (Nov 11, 2007)

*Boy, do they!*



Rich said:


> Church's do their Grafton in cordovan (they call it crup) :


I got the last pair available in the inventory, on the 100 last, in my size last week, from now on, the Grafron goes onto last 173, that will a seperate post and rant from me shortly.

These darlings were sitting in Burlington Arcade for weeks.

I decided not to weary other forumites with the information. :icon_smile:
Though I did discover the joys of nail biting.

*'Grafton' Burgundy Crup with double leather sole on the 100 last. *

Too chunky and round for many I have no doubt, I would not describe them as 'best' but I prefered them to the Alden I saw, these are MUCH more substantial, the Aldens seemed _by comparison_ to be a little delicate, apples & oranges I know.

They are most likey to be the only cordovan I will ever buy, I just hope the balliffs don't spot them.

BTW. Churchs', Burlington Arcade closes this Saturday for a major refurb.

F.


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## Concordia (Sep 30, 2004)

That Balmoral/derby/wingtip combination is intriguing. Loake offers a similar model in calf that looks even nicer, although it is perhaps less durable.


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## Rossini (Oct 7, 2007)

Rich said:


> Church's do their Grafton in cordovan (they call it crup) : https://www.herringshoes.co.uk/prod...6&shoeID=133&selectedSizeID=0&selectedFitID=0


I have an old pair of Church's Stratton in crup, which I'm not sure is exactly shell cordovan but may be close. They look similar in style to Church's Shannon, which I also have in Polished Binder.


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## Rich (Jul 10, 2005)

Franko said:


> I got the last pair available in the inventory, on the 100 last, in my size last week, from now on, the Grafron goes onto last 173, that will a seperate post and rant from me shortly.
> 
> F.


Congratulations, Franko, lucky man.


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

Franko said:


> I got the last pair available in the inventory, on the 100 last, in my size last week, from now on, the Grafron goes onto last 173, that will a seperate post and rant from me shortly.
> 
> These darlings were sitting in Burlington Arcade for weeks.
> 
> ...


Good for you Franko old boy! Look just like mine - great great shoe. Fancy you admitting to liking the dreaded 100 last - hated even more than Church's itself on this forum and SF! FWIW I think 100 last looks very well on the Grafton and I am not sure at all how a heavy shoe like this will look on the 173 last.

I also ( greedy me) have Shannon in Burgundy Cordovan - also a great shoe , also broke the bank!

LM


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## bengal-stripe (May 10, 2003)

Franko said:


> .......but I prefered them to the Alden I saw, these are MUCH more substantial, the Aldens seemed _by comparison_ to be a little delicate, apples & oranges I know.


Not many people would call Alden shoes 'delicate'.


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## Franko (Nov 11, 2007)

bengal-stripe said:


> Not many people would call Alden shoes 'delicate'.


Correct.

Neither would I Bengal,

*Seemed By Comparison* a little delicate,

I was pointing up the robustness of 'The Grafton', why I think this mighty shoe, an armour plated battle cruiser of the pavement, is prefered by myself and many others over the Alden.

I would also like to add, given this opportunity.

Particularly in cordovan, the topic of the thread, if one of the motives of a purchaser, let's say 'investor' instead, is a perception of toughness and longevity,(delusional or not) many, including myself would prefer HMS The Mighty Grafton.

F.


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## bengal-stripe (May 10, 2003)

Franko said:


> ..........this mighty shoe, an armour plated battle cruiser of the pavement........


Let the battle commence: Godzilla vs. King Kong










*Church's 100 last*

*Alden's Barrie last*.


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

The Church has it IMHO - looks much more solid, and sumptous too! Built to last forever - which at Cordo prices here in the UK you want it to!


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## Franko (Nov 11, 2007)

Leather man said:


> The Church has it IMHO - looks much more solid, and sumptous too! Built to last forever - which at Cordo prices here in the UK you want it to!


+1

Plus, The Alen looks like polished binder.:aportnoy:
So that's three points in front under Eurovision Song contest rules.
One (1) from LM, two (2) from me = 4.

BTW. Great posting Bengal, lovely piece of artwork you knocked up!
is their no limit to your talents?


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