# Jean Recommendations



## thebot (Sep 11, 2007)

I always struggle trying to find jeans without back pocket stitching or weird fads, artificial tears, etc. Just good quality jeans. I like the most recent offering from the Gap in straight fit, but alas they have started putting back pocket stitching on the jeans.

I know that there will be some Levis recommendations, but I am looking for some other alternatives. Also, I don't want to break-in a pair of selvedge jeans; I have went down this path before and the outcome is great, but need some jeans ready-to-go now.


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## thebot (Sep 11, 2007)

I should add that I would like to keep the price in the $50 - $100 range per pair.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

Here is a full list of acceptable makers of jeans:

1. Levis


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## ThreeLegDog (Jun 3, 2011)

Check out Unbranded. Minimal ornamentation.


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## Saltydog (Nov 3, 2007)

Perhaps Lands' End or LL Bean. Levis did make a plain pocket model for Walmartt at a really low price. Fit was pure Levis.


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## Bjorn (May 2, 2010)

H&M have jeans like that, in your price range.


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

Trip English said:


> Here is a full list of acceptable makers of jeans:
> 
> 1. Levis


Yep, and purists would chose Levis 501 shrink-to-fits.


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## firedancer (Jan 11, 2011)

Trip English said:


> Here is a full list of acceptable makers of jeans:
> 
> 1. Levis


Read Dad Jeans.:icon_smile_big:

Of course Levis are always a viable option. I was in Banana Republic last night and they haven't put anything nuts on their pockets yet. I didn't take a close look but I think they have a couple darker washes that might fit your bill. I was there to get a white pair.

There is a store in NYC called Epaulet and I've been eying their denim for a while. No frills and the fits seem straight forward. Made in america with ring spun denim. 
good luck


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## thebot (Sep 11, 2007)

Trip English said:


> Here is a full list of acceptable makers of jeans:
> 
> 1. Levis


I know, I know. I was just looking for some variety.


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## thebot (Sep 11, 2007)

ThreeLegDog said:


> Check out Unbranded. Minimal ornamentation.


Excellent recommendation. I will try to find a local store that sells them to try on a pair.


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## thebot (Sep 11, 2007)

firedancer said:


> Read Dad Jeans.:icon_smile_big:
> 
> Of course Levis are always a viable option. I was in Banana Republic last night and they haven't put anything nuts on their pockets yet. I didn't take a close look but I think they have a couple darker washes that might fit your bill. I was there to get a white pair.
> 
> ...


Banana puts a diagonal red stitching on the jeans. It looks easy enough to remove. Unfortunately, the store close to be has a very, very slim selection.


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## Saltydog (Nov 3, 2007)

Obviously, in order to get almost anyone's wholehearted recommendation you would have to list what fit you prefer, what your age is, your proportions, accurate description of your build (please don't say "athletic" everyone has claimed that to the point it is meaningless) and your intentions when you wear them. Some call classic fit Levis or anything that comes above your pubic bone "Dad's" jeans or "Mom's" jeans. If having no stitching on the pockets is what you are after, as I said, both Lands' End and LL Bean has plain pocket jeans in several fits...with the possible exception of the skin tight girly jobs. Levi and Wrangler have plain pocket models in the Walmart stores for cheap...as I said--in different fits. Levis do remain my favorite...501 or 505...but I've about decided I'm too old and out of touch with today's style/fits to be giving advice on this forum.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

thebot said:


> I know, I know. I was just looking for some variety.


Variety? Wrong forum, Tex.


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## rojo (Apr 29, 2004)

My suggestion is to rethink whether you really need a pair of jeans. My brother owns one pair, which he bought for a costume party and hasn't worn since. I thought that I owned a pair of jeans, but when I went looking for them in the bottom of a couple of drawers I couldn't find them, so perhaps I'm wrong.

As for "Dad jeans," that makes it sound like there's something wrong with wanting to dress like a grown-up. I _aspire_ to dress like my Dad.


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## leisureclass (Jan 31, 2011)

I agree wholeheartedly on the Levis only Recc. My addition to that advice would be go vintage if at all possible. I think people gravitate towards the term 'dad jeans' for Levis because of what they started to do with their back pockets in the last, I dunno, 10 years maybe, in all the more modern pairs I've tried on the back pockets are really far apart and too low, a very very unflattering and frumpy dad look. I got an older pair of 505s earlier this year that have perfect pockets all around, now I'll wear them till they completely fall apart.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Everything is so damn low rise now, even Levi's. If I could just find one pair of selvage denim that weren't too expensive and didn't give me plumber's crack...


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## snakeroot (Aug 30, 2008)

*Sugar Canes*

You want



thebot said:


> [J]eans without back pocket stitching or weird fads, artificial tears, etc. [and] don't want to break-in a pair of selvedge jeans; . . . some jeans ready-to-go now.


You need Sugar Cane 2009s. Normal, not-a-jegging cut, completely unadorned and made from a nice, light denim that's comfortable from the instant you put it on and is so slubby that after a few months it looks like shot silk.

Don't listen to the haters and the cheapskates. Denim looks great with the trad standards (which is what's great about the trad standards). Tweed, hopsack, seersucker, OCBD, it's all good.

There's no reason to skimp on something you'll wear literally every day and accusations of profligacy from people with more horses' asses in their shoe rack than ran in the Belmont Stakes ring awfully hollow IMHO.

Regards,


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## thebot (Sep 11, 2007)

snakeroot said:


> You want
> 
> You need Sugar Cane 2009s. Normal, not-a-jegging cut, completely unadorned and made from a nice, light denim that's comfortable from the instant you put it on and is so slubby that after a few months it looks like shot silk.
> 
> ...


Sugar Canes are great jeans, but just a little but more than what I am looking to spend.


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## David J. Cooper (Apr 26, 2010)

If you think 501s are Dad Jeans then maybe you need to go to Armani Exchange. Their jeans look great with Nike Shocks.


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## Upperguy (Jul 26, 2011)

I mentioned this in my intro thread, being a really tall thin guy has made me search for other options in jeans. Check out www.makeyourownjeans.com They come to about $55 shipped for a custom pair, just measure off a pair you enjoy and tweak as needed. It took about 3-5 weeks to arrive, but you get custom jeans with a huge amount of options, including selvedged if that's your thing.

Another option for custom if you want something more local is www.indicustom.com, they are a bit faster and I believe US made, but start around $155.

I can't recommend the first site highly enough, I'll include a pic but I wear mine a little tighter by choice, you can get them made looser if you desire Also, I don't have a blowout, my short girlfriend took the pic and it just looks that way. I've only bought a single pair of jeans since discovering custom and it was a pair of Banana Republic cause they were on clearance for $20.


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## hookem12387 (Dec 29, 2009)

Jovan said:


> Everything is so damn low rise now, even Levi's. If I could just find one pair of selvage denim that weren't too expensive and didn't give me plumber's crack...


Check out 501xx, cone denim in a 501 cut that can vary from the 501 in 1950 - current. I know a place in Houston that has em, but not sure where to tell you to look online. Also. Think epaulet has some higher rise models online


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

Upperguy said:


>


Your door and your jeans appear to have a similar grain pattern.


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## Upperguy (Jul 26, 2011)

Trip English said:


> Your door and your jeans appear to have a similar grain pattern.


Yeah, when I ordered them I didn't think the lines would be as pronounced, it also picked up a lot of definition from the camera's flash though you can also just barely make out the red stitching(cool custom touch). That was the first pair I ordered and I should have realized it would look like that based on the name 'lusty stripes'. But I've received a lot of compliments on them, most of the time without being accompanied with a snicker.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

hookem12387 said:


> Check out 501xx, cone denim in a 501 cut that can vary from the 501 in 1950 - current. I know a place in Houston that has em, but not sure where to tell you to look online. Also. Think epaulet has some higher rise models online


 Thanks. So basically the Levi's shrink-to-fit have a higher rise than their other models?


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## Pappa (Dec 2, 2007)

*Jean*



Jovan said:


> Thanks. So basically the Levi's shrink-to-fit have a higher rise than their other models?


Jovan---

The STF are definitely higher rise than any of the other jeans by Levi's or most others. Love them.

I ordered the same waist size as I normally wear. It is recommended that you order one inch larger. Two inches in length is ok.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Cool, thanks. Kohl's sells them here. I had almost considered Carhartt but hated the logo on the back pocket. For the same price I guess I'll try the Levi's STP.


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## Pulpdiction (Aug 13, 2011)

Carhartt do many pairs without much stitching on the pocket, Not sure what the issue with stitching is, just steer clear of Evisu. Clearly not in your price bracket stated but Nudie are making THE best jeans anywhere at the moment. Be careful with Levi's not sure how old you are but there is nothing sadder than a middle aged man in badly fitting 501s, if your not slim then 501s are not for you. Also dark Japanese engineered denim is the way to go at the moment.

The Carhartts: https://www.carhartt.com/webapp/wcs...=10051&productId=138112&langId=-1&categoryId=


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## PolieCat (Dec 14, 2007)

Epaulet is a nice store. Many items made in the USA.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Pulpdiction: I'm slim and in my 20s, so the 501xx should work on me. Thanks for the suggestion, but I looked everywhere on the Carhartt website and couldn't find dark jeans that weren't prewhiskered or had a logo smack on the right butt cheek. Why can't they put it on the waistband like everyone else? If they're made in the USA though, I'd be tempted to buy just for that reason.


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## fishertw (Jan 27, 2006)

Saltydog,
You are not too old or too out of touch to be giving advice. Those of us who grew up in the 60's with traditional clothes still understand the good stuff. We may not be in touch with current trends, but we have a wealth of background and experience with traditional american clothes that transcends todays styles and fit. While we may be a bit larger around the middle than some of these young bucks, we do know how to wear clothing and understand value and traditional style. That is what this forum is about.
I'll be 64 next month I retired yesterday, and I look forward to a "next life" but still understand and enjoy traditional styles and always will.
Cheers to you sir!
Tom


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Seconded. I'm a young buck and learn a lot from the "old timers" here.


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## hookem12387 (Dec 29, 2009)

Check out the already mentioned Levis lvc 501xx, chevh out epaulets house jeans, Raleigh, and Baldwins. Thats if you want to spend $150-220 or so. Otherwise just get some STF 501s like you mentioned.


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## Himself (Mar 2, 2011)

Pappa said:


> Jovan---
> 
> The STF are definitely higher rise than any of the other jeans by Levi's or most others. Love them.
> 
> I ordered the same waist size as I normally wear. It is recommended that you order one inch larger. Two inches in length is ok.


Seconded. I buy my waist size too, and go +2 on the length. As a 30 year 501 wearer, I'm very pleased with the latest crop of STF. I bought mine at Sears.


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## frosejr (Mar 27, 2010)

thebot said:


> I always struggle trying to find jeans without back pocket stitching or weird fads, artificial tears, etc. Just good quality jeans. I like the most recent offering from the Gap in straight fit, but alas they have started putting back pocket stitching on the jeans.
> 
> I know that there will be some Levis recommendations, but I am looking for some other alternatives. Also, I don't want to break-in a pair of selvedge jeans; I have went down this path before and the outcome is great, but need some jeans ready-to-go now.


On my list of products to try are these two made-in-USA jeans companies:
Diamond Gusset Jeans
https://www.gussetclothing.com/mendiamgusje.html

All American Jean Company

If anyone here has any experience with either, I'd like to hear about it.


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## shepdawg (Jul 31, 2011)

Buffalo jeans fit me well and don't have gay stitching on the butt.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Referring to something you dislike as "gay" is pretty tacky, shepdawg.


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## jph712 (Mar 22, 2007)

*+1 for Diamond Gusset*



frosejr said:


> On my list of products to try are these two made-in-USA jeans companies:
> Diamond Gusset Jeans
> https://www.gussetclothing.com/mendiamgusje.html
> 
> ...


I have 2 pair of Diamond Gussets, purchased 2 years apart. They are terrific. They've worn very well. I ordered mine in a 35" waist, I'm normally a 34", so that I had a little room for them shrink when dried in the dryer. When I need another pair I will be ordering from Diamond Gusset again. And the plus is, Cotton grown in the US, fabric woven in the US, jeans sewn in the US.


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## caravan70 (Mar 18, 2010)

I like Earnest Sewn... they fit well, and they're made in the US. If you're patient, you can find them on eBay for around $25 because they don't seem to have the "hip" factor of certain other jeans that are a lot more gaudy (True Religion, for example). Or you could pay full price, which is around $200, but why do that?


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## Bjorn (May 2, 2010)

Nudie have great fit. They have less clunky seams than the others as well.


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## Snow Hill Pond (Aug 10, 2011)

I wholeheartedly disagree with the numerous recommendations of Levi's 501s. The jeans look good if you're tall and skinny, otherwise they're an exercise in marketing. Also as someone mentioned the rise is ridicuously low. I don't remember how they were 20 years ago, but the 501s as they are currently cut are poser jeans...not meant for work, but for hanging around the bar while drinking something like an appletini.

If you're looking for a pair of work jeans with minimal ornamentation in the rear pockets, stick with denim Wranglers or duck cloth Dickies from Walmart. They can be had for less than $20/pair and they're built so that if you are actually doing some work and have to bend over, you're fully covered.

If you're looking for a pair of "dress" jeans, then I can't help you. Why wear jeans when you can wear khakis?


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## petro (Apr 5, 2005)

thebot said:


> I always struggle trying to find jeans without back pocket stitching or weird fads, artificial tears, etc. Just good quality jeans. I like the most recent offering from the Gap in straight fit, but alas they have started putting back pocket stitching on the jeans.
> 
> I know that there will be some Levis recommendations, but I am looking for some other alternatives. Also, I don't want to break-in a pair of selvedge jeans; I have went down this path before and the outcome is great, but need some jeans ready-to-go now.


https://www.makeyourownjeans.com

https://www.indicustom.com

https://www.jeans-custom-made.com/

I've never used any of these, but it seems that you might be able to get what you want.


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## Uncle Bill (May 4, 2010)

firedancer said:


> Read Dad Jeans.:icon_smile_big:
> 
> Of course Levis are always a viable option. I was in Banana Republic last night and they haven't put anything nuts on their pockets yet. I didn't take a close look but I think they have a couple darker washes that might fit your bill. I was there to get a white pair.
> 
> ...


Another vote for Banana Republic and their jeans and I own a few, well constructed, consistent fit and most importantly no over the top pocket decoration. Another option is RL Polo denim, i might get a pair at some point.


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## Danny (Mar 24, 2005)

I wear either LL Bean classic fit or Wrangler 13 MWZ. I like them both.


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## RedBluff (Dec 22, 2009)

Danny said:


> I wear either LL Bean classic fit or Wrangler 13 MWZ. I like them both.


3rd vote for LL Beans classic fit.
They are very well made and last forever.
Also check out Nat Nast's Mavericks...although they maybe hard to find in smaller waist sizes.


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## shepdawg (Jul 31, 2011)

Jovan said:


> Referring to something you dislike as "gay" is pretty tacky, shepdawg.


It's not that I don't like stitching on the pockets of jeans, I just that everyone I know who wears them lives in Hillcrest and goes to The Hole on Sunday evenings.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Not really helping your case, kid.


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## Mr. Mac (Mar 14, 2008)

I throw my hat in for Wrangler. Growing up in the west, I wore cowboy cut 13MWZ's as a kid, then wandered in the wilderness of Levis 501/505 for a few years. I've since gone back to my roots and I'm back in the saddle with 13MWZ. I don't care for pocket stitching or tags, so I remove them with a seam ripper. They have the perfect shade of blue, wear like iron, and look like good, honest jeans.

FWIW, I've always hated how low Levi's back pockets sit. Wrangler pockets sit higher on your butt so you don't have sag-a** all day.

I also like the wranglers that you can buy at Wal-mart or target. The straight leg models are cut close but not tight, loose but not baggy. The washes aren't great and they have tacky labels all over them, but it's nothing some dye, sandpaper, and a seam ripper can't fix. For $15 they're a heck of deal.


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## Danny (Mar 24, 2005)

Regarding Levi's...I wore Levi's 505's as a kid, but having not worn them in years, I tried some on recently and really disliked the fit [on me]. I am not sure if the 505 fit has changed, or I have changed, or what, but I cannot wear Levi's anymore. The LL Bean classic fit fits me very well, they look trim and neat and the dark wash is a great shade of blue. The Wrangler 13 MWZ has been a little but of an acquired taste, but I really like them now. I like the fit very well.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Snow Hill Pond said:


> I wholeheartedly disagree with the numerous recommendations of Levi's 501s. The jeans look good if you're tall and skinny, otherwise they're an exercise in marketing. Also as someone mentioned the rise is ridicuously low. I don't remember how they were 20 years ago, but the 501s as they are currently cut are poser jeans...not meant for work, but for hanging around the bar while drinking something like an appletini.
> 
> If you're looking for a pair of work jeans with minimal ornamentation in the rear pockets, stick with denim Wranglers or duck cloth Dickies from Walmart. They can be had for less than $20/pair and they're built so that if you are actually doing some work and have to bend over, you're fully covered.
> 
> If you're looking for a pair of "dress" jeans, then I can't help you. Why wear jeans when you can wear khakis?


We're not talking about the regular 501 but the Shrink-to-Fit which has a higher rise and unwashed fabric.

I wholeheartedly agree on your last point. While the girlfriend likes me in a sport coat and OCBD with jeans, I wear them less and less now in favour of chinos.


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## ctt (Dec 24, 2008)

I'm also looking for the same as you and plan to pickup either a pair of Duluth Trading Company or Carhartt jeans.


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## cmacey (May 3, 2009)

shepdawg said:


> It's not that I don't like stitching on the pockets of jeans, I just that everyone I know who wears them lives in Hillcrest and goes to The Hole on Sunday evenings.





Jovan said:


> Not really helping your case, kid.


shepdawg...First rule of holes: once you realize you are in one, stop digging!


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## hookem12387 (Dec 29, 2009)

Well, I'm going to throw one more possibility out for all, though it's a bit expensive. Raleigh Nash: no ornamentation at all, handmade, small batches, White Oak denim, higher rise, slim fit, great feel. Just awesome jeans. 


(yep, still wearing the espadrilles around the house)


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

I don't want to say you're wrong or anything, but the rise looks pretty low from where those belt loops sit.

Make no apologies for the espadrilles. They're cool in my book, which I realise may not mean much but uh... there ya go.


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## AdamsSutherland (Jan 22, 2008)

Jovan,

"Higher." The term is relative and considering Hookem's fit preferences, I'm sure he had to hunt for a pair with a reasonable rise. Additionally, length of belt loops varies. From bar tack to bar tack, my jeans' belt loops are just under 2.5".

Hookem,

Nice upgrade; I was always a fan of the red chain-stitching around the hem. Enjoy wearing the Raleighs.


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## hookem12387 (Dec 29, 2009)

AS, thanks. You're right in that it's difficult to find a slimmer fitting jean with a reasonably high rise. I'm excited about these, big jump up from the GAPs (which are still pretty solid)

Jovan: it's a 10" front rise, about the same as current STF 501's. Truthfully, I'd feel physically uncomfortable in anything higher. I'd put the rise fairly close to J Crew's classic fit chino, for something that most of us are familiar with.

If anyone is interested in some of the details, they're rather cool: 
- Raleigh jeans are all handmade, small batches (these were 179 of an order of 250), salaried employees. The inside pockets have hand transfered hip joint printing, and they're signed by the people that make them. If you're going to spend some cash on jeans, this is the type of brand you want to do it on IMO.


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## Patrick06790 (Apr 10, 2005)

I like Lands End jeans, any color except blue. Like these, currently in overstocks. Grey is a good jeans color.

These are pretty good too

https://www.cabelas.com/product/Clo...stype=GNU&WTz_l=SEO;cat104405580;cat104080680

I need a 29 inch inseam, which isn't easy to find.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

hookem: The rise on 501 STF is listed as 12.25" on Levi's website and everywhere else I can find information on them.


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## hookem12387 (Dec 29, 2009)

Ok, the rise on these is 10.5", so a bit lower. It feels very similar, but perhaps I wear my 501s a bit lower than I should!


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## firedancer (Jan 11, 2011)

^I don't think you'd want them to much higher. After all, you don't wear denim at your belly button. I've seen quite a few fellas wear jeans around there ( call it your natural waist or whatever) and it looks utterly ridiculous! Tuck in a BD and it's even worse! Cuts you in half in a very bad way. 
Of course lots of jeans have gotten out of control rise wise, I can't tell you how many but cracks I see at the grocery store but A high rise is just as silly. 

A high rise trouser can be very flattering. This holds true in traditional garb like old BB and hickey tweeds, and some modern neapolitan cuts like some Isaia numbers I own. But in denim? C'mon.


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## hookem12387 (Dec 29, 2009)

Like I said, this 10.5" rise is perfect for me. But that's fully just my opinion. Given that I wear denim a bit tighter, at least until it stretches out a bit, wearing these higher on the waist would be absolutely oppressive. I've probably side tracked this thread enough other than to say: Raleigh jeans, totally unadorned, fully handmade in the USA, expensive but kinda sorta worth it


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## swb120 (Aug 9, 2005)

I hate hipster jeans, but needed a pair of really light-weight ones, so recently bought these Tommy Bahama jeans at Nordstrom. They were slightly more than I wanted to pay (I, too, wanted to stay south of $100), but they are terrific. Simple pocket, NOT low-rise (what a horrible trend for men's jeans/pants, imho), incredibly light-weight and comfortable. If you are looking for a heavier denim, these are not they, but if you want something light and comfortable for going out, they're great.
https://shop.nordstrom.com/s/tommy-...m-wash/3083259?origin=category&resultback=912


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## zightx (Jul 10, 2011)

I totally agree that jeans should be worn pretty tight and a little lower then other pants. (Of course not to slim like some kind of fashion pants).

Slacks can be a little roomier without looking bad.


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## tocqueville (Nov 15, 2009)

hookem12387 said:


> Like I said, this 10.5" rise is perfect for me. But that's fully just my opinion. Given that I wear denim a bit tighter, at least until it stretches out a bit, wearing these higher on the waist would be absolutely oppressive. I've probably side tracked this thread enough other than to say: Raleigh jeans, totally unadorned, fully handmade in the USA, expensive but kinda sorta worth it


I like those Raleigh Jeans.

If I had a whole lot of money to spend on jeans, I'd go for these from Imogene + Willie, which are in the same genre as the Raleighs, I think:


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## s1722 (Sep 7, 2011)

*Edwin*

OP: I don't suppose you have tried a pair of Edwin's ED-35 jeans? Whilst they are selvedge denim they are the only jean I have found with a rise suitable for a tucked-in shirt. They do have a cinch-back fastening, together with belt loops, but seeing as some posters have recommended picking out the stitching from back pockets, I am sure this can be overcome. I would note that they are branded as loose-fit but I have not found this to be a problem. That said, as a former rugby player I tend to ignore the labels on clothing.

Pricing was around the £120 mark. I have recently been informed that this model is being discontinued. However, I recently picked up a pair online for £69.99.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

FWIW, I'm really digging the Levi's 501 STF so far...


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## Walter Denton (Sep 11, 2011)

This is my first post on the forum. As one of those "old guys" who has been wearing jeans since the 60's, I agree that the fit of the Levis 505s seems to have changed. After wearing them for over 40 years I switched to Nautica jeans in their "Classic" cut but not the ones with the "Nautica Jeans" label. Unfortunately Nautica seems to make a bewildering array of mostly ill-fitting jeans. The only ones I will wear are available in a very dark denim with minimal stitching on the back pockets and I buy them when they are on sale at the local Nautica outlet store for $19.95. The cut is very similar to what I remember of the 505s from the past. They sit on the hip not at the hip. I did recently try on a pair of 501 STF and I rather liked that fit also. I just never got into the button front thing.


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## unmodern (Aug 10, 2009)

I love my 501s (dark wash). Took me two tries to get the sizing right, though---after a while the first pair stretched too much in the waist, so I sized down 1" from my usual size. The new ones are snug in the hips/thighs after washing, but after one wear they fit like Hookem's or a bit looser. I'll echo others in saying that the "traditional" look in jeans is the straight-legged slim one invented by Levi. You can argue over whether jeans are trad at all, but wearing them like trousers is as wrong as wearing trousers like jeans.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

You may have a point there.

Only thing I'd change on mine would be seven rather than five belt loops and stitching them into the waistband rather than on top of it. Wouldn't mind paying a little more for those features.


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## Gurdon (Feb 7, 2005)

*Brooks Brothers Levi's*

I have worn Levi's most of my life, mostly 501's. (I have photos from 1948 of me at three years old wearing Levi's, western boots, and a cowboy hat.) I have noticed the changes mentioned by others, not only in fit but reduced durability.

I recently bought a pair of Brooks Brothers Levis. They are not exactly traditional jeans, but they fit like 501's and feel good. The cloth is softer than regular denim, and actually sort of drapes. They are flattering on my post-athletic frame. They are a bit more costly than regular Levi's, but if I see them on sale I will probably pick up a couple of pairs. I mention them as an alternative for you to consider, especailly as you seem to like the darker denim color.

I prefer Levi's to chinos in most situations. Levi's, although officially workers' pants, seem dressier than chinos, especially baggy ones.

IMHO Levi's/jeans should be worn low, at the hips. When worn like slacks they look horrible.

My usual uniform is Levi's, OCBD or other dress shirt, English shoes, and a sports jacket; not exactly trad/Ivy League, but I like the way I look.

FWIW, I prefer that my Levi's show some wear. In the 50's and 60's one's initially dark blue stiff jeans eventually got to looking really well worn and nicely faded, and then they fell apart. Buying pre-faded ones eliminates having to wear them several months before they look right. I imagine the period of appealing worn-in appearance is as long, if not longer, on modern Levi's than it was on the oiginals.

Regards,
Gurdon

PS: Out of deference to the sensibilities of our host, I would not wear denim to an Ask Andy event.


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## Elev8 (Aug 18, 2011)

Just to throw in another curveball 
I'm a big fan of Paul Smith jeans (if they are available in the U.S.) https://www.paulsmith.co.uk/
Over here at least, by the time they hit the stores they fall within your price range.
I always find they are exceptionally comfortable and fit really well (much better than other popular brands I could name).
Nice soft fabrics which hold their colour, they require no special care, do not show wear, and last FOREVER.
Another big reason I like them is they are largely unadorned. Typically the only "branding" you will see on them is a single horizontal seam across each back pocket (a trademark of the brand) but often they are completely plain. The only branding being the small vertical tag attached to the "5th pocket".
I've had lots of different jeans over many years from myriad different brands, from the very cheap to the very expensive.
Paul Smith jeans are the only ones I've had which I felt came with absolutely no compromises on look/wear/fit/comfort.
For my money they are very difficult to beat.
Of the 8 pairs of jeans I own currently, all bar one are Paul Smith.
They may of course not be to your liking, but if you can find them, you should take a look.

P.S. FWIW I abhor Levis. The only ones I'd even consider would be vintage ones.

*EDIT* Here is the list of U.S. Paul Smith stores. The "Sale Shops" in London are a bit of a mainstay for me personally, for more than just jeans.
https://www.paulsmith.co.uk/shop-locator/?Pcountry=com.othercommerce.customer.model.Country-L-2


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Gurdon said:


> I have worn Levi's most of my life, mostly 501's. (I have photos from 1948 of me at three years old wearing Levi's, western boots, and a cowboy hat.) I have noticed the changes mentioned by others, not only in fit but reduced durability.
> 
> I recently bought a pair of Brooks Brothers Levis. They are not exactly traditional jeans, but they fit like 501's and feel good. The cloth is softer than regular denim, and actually sort of drapes. They are flattering on my post-athletic frame. They are a bit more costly than regular Levi's, but if I see them on sale I will probably pick up a couple of pairs. I mention them as an alternative for you to consider, especailly as you seem to like the darker denim color.
> .........
> ...


A while back there were a few posts regarding some sort of sales partnership between BB and Levis, in which BB was going to be selling an upgraded version of Levis jeans. I'm not seeing Levis for sale in my local BB storefronts....whatever happened with that sales partnership? Facts/thoughts...anyone? :icon_scratch:


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

Still going strong apparently. I was in BB yesterday in Darien and Levis were front and center. Good looking jeans.


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## hookem12387 (Dec 29, 2009)

Add in Billy Reid as a place to grab some upgraded Levis. I'm not sure of the specifics of what they're offering, but they're made in the USA, at least.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Trip English said:


> Still going strong apparently. I was in BB yesterday in Darien and Levis were front and center. Good looking jeans.


Yeah, but $150 for non-selvage? A little steep, even for U.S.A. made.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

Have you ever employed someone in America?? Living wage is about $25-30/hr and that's just labor. Add health insurance to that labor, rent the premises, design the merchandise, purchase the raw materials, package it, store it, ship it, and market it. $150 for a pair of jeans or any casual pants is just about right. Charge any less and I'd assume something was wrong with them. 

Admittedly I'm all juiced up from my red's refugee rant, but it costs something to make something in the USA. You can believe that it's right for us to reenergize our manufacturing sector or not, but costs are costs regardless of our feelings.


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## Fashionguy88 (Sep 13, 2011)

JCrew jeans are high quality and not too expensive..


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## Trad-ish (Feb 19, 2011)

Ok, I need someone to help with a Levi's STF sizing question.

Some people say buy your waist size. Others say buy a size down. Interestingly, the Dillards Levi's 501 STF blurb says to order your waist two inches UP if you wear between a 38-42 if you plan on washing them (which I plan to). I wear around a 40 with a 33" inseam. What size should I get?


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