# Best Material for a "Dress" Khaki?



## tlwhhf (Mar 1, 2010)

I typically wear Bills for my khaki pants but need something for dress. Always with my blue blazer from BB. I live in the hot, steamy south and am looking for a summer weight and a winter weight. Wash khakis are fine but once in a while I really need to dress like a grown up. :biggrin:

Besides material, where to buy would be helpful. I've been a BB customer for 45 years so I have no issues going there but sometimes I just think it isn't like it used to be.

Thanks.


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## katon (Dec 25, 2006)

Khaki poplins might be considered marginally more dressy than plain khakis, but neither is exactly "formal". A tropical weight wool suit is probably the best solution. If you want something dressier than khakis and a blazer, but not as dressy as a suit, you might want to consider looking into a pair of tropical weight grey flannels.


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## Cruiser (Jul 21, 2006)

tlwhhf said:


> Wash khakis are fine but once in a while I really need to dress like a grown up.


Odd since many (outside of this forum of course) consider them to be old man's pants. :icon_smile_big:

Cruiser


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## TheWGP (Jan 15, 2010)

I wear my chamois cloth Bills for just this kind of situation. They're a bit nicer hand and the styling is more formal than the poplins (two tab buttons & a zipper for closure, different pocket closure setup, so on) but you won't mistake them for heavy wool trousers either, and they're quite light. I'm not really sure what else one would wear with a blazer to up the formality - tropical weight flannels make sense, but still almost seems like an oxymoron!


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## Youngster (Jun 5, 2008)

You could try ironing your Bills if they look to sloppy. Otherwise khakis are khakis- cotton pants can only be so formal. There are always tan tropical wools and cavalry twills. I also think I have seen some gabardines that could fit your needs.


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## AldenPyle (Oct 8, 2006)

https://www.jpressonline.com/trousers_dress_detail.php?ix=0


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

Bills are great for knocking around, but aren't particularly formal. You might try some dress chinos from Berle, which can usually be found at small, independent men's clothiers throughout the South. Some of the Barry Bricken trousers, also made by Berle, are very nice as well. Berle is still manufacturing in the US if that's important to you. Corbin might be an excellent option as well and can usually be found a bit cheaper. Personally, I prefer Berle or Corbin over BB for dressier chinos.

Looks like Perlis, Rubenstein Bros., and M. Goldberg carry Berle in New Orleans

Here's an on-line retailer for Berle. Looks like they go for $75 a pair from this shop.
https://www.hunterandcoggins.com/berle.htm


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## tlwhhf (Mar 1, 2010)

Sorry, gents, but I guess I slipped into the comfortable vernacular. When I said "khaki" I meant that in a broad sense, that is to say, tan pants that go nicely with a blue blazer in the evening or at the office on a dress down day. I realize now that "khaki" in this group means a cotton pant while I was being a bit loose with my language. I am looking for a tan colored pant to wear with my blue blazer in a more formal setting than I would wear my wash khakis. I know I could wear a light or dark gray tropical weight "flannel" pant but sometimes I just like something tan. I guess I'm looking for some advice on choosing a worsted wool vs. a gab vs. a cavalry twill (I'm not sure what the difference is between the gab and the twill). The worsted wool, at least whatI've seen at BB, doesn't do much for me, so maybe someone can describe the difference between the cavalry twill and the gab? Again, thanks.


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## tlwhhf (Mar 1, 2010)

Cardinals5:
Great thought on Perlis and Goldberg. Rubenstein's is a bit continental for me. I'll check on the Berle - of course, my khaki suit is Corbin. I'm looking for something that will drape a little nicer than a heavy, cotton Bills (which, for the record, are always pressed). Thanks for taking the time to let me know which stores around here carry what I'm looking for.


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## Cowtown (Aug 10, 2006)

I second the Bill's chamois suggestion. You may also want to consider the BB Country Club twills as well.


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

tlwhhf said:


> so maybe someone can describe the difference between the cavalry twill and the gab?


Cavalry twill is a heavy cloth (cotton or wool) that has a double twill line. Cavalry twills in wool might be a great option for winter in New Orleans. Gabs, on the other hand, probably won't be suitable for the long, hot summer in the Big Easy. Gabs drape well, but are woven so tightly that little air penetrates the cloth (better for spring/fall). For summer wear in New Orleans I don't think you can beat a light tropical worsted for dressier occasions with your blazer.

Close up of cavalry twill


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## C. Sharp (Dec 18, 2008)

Here is an article for your consideration https://thetrad.blogspot.com/2010/05/chino-tasting-best-dress-chino.html


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## Bradford (Dec 10, 2004)

Another thought would be the J Press twill pants. Despite the fact that Press lists them as casual pants, they are much nicer than the Bills that I own and I've successfully worn them many times with a blue blazer on Fridays or out in the evenings (actually I was wearing them at work today).

https://www.jpressonline.com/trousers_casual_detail.php?ix=5


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## chacend (Mar 4, 2008)

Bradford said:


> Another thought would be the J Press twill pants. Despite the fact that Press lists them as casual pants, they are much nicer than the Bills that I own and I've successfully worn them many times with a blue blazer on Fridays or out in the evenings (actually I was wearing them at work today).
> 
> https://www.jpressonline.com/trousers_casual_detail.php?ix=5


Agreed, my JPress khakis are my "dress" khakis. I believe they are made by Berle as well so they are probably similar to the ones that Cardinals was speaking about above. They are on sale right now as well. Just for reference the ris on these is like the Bills M1 but they are a much trimmer fit.


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## Youngster (Jun 5, 2008)

Cardinals5 said:


> Cavalry twill is a heavy cloth (cotton or wool) that has a double twill line. Cavalry twills in wool might be a great option for winter in New Orleans. Gabs, on the other hand, probably won't be suitable for the long, hot summer in the Big Easy. Gabs drape well, but are woven so tightly that little air penetrates the cloth (better for spring/fall). For summer wear in New Orleans I don't think you can beat a light tropical worsted for dressier occasions with your blazer.
> 
> Close up of cavalry twill


+1, great rundown. Gab's have a real dressy look, often a bit of smooth sheen. Though cavalry twill is a real classic, and you probably need some tropical wool too. Also, you need more cotton khakis. Get all of them.


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## JDDY (Mar 18, 2006)

*dressier tan pants*

If you want to stay with cotton, look for "khyber" cloth. The more expensive J Press "dress khakis" linked by Alden Pyle use this material. I have a pair from Ben Silver I wear for the situation you describe; they make both a lightweight and standard version. Ben Silver can be outrageously priced, but these pants, while not cheap, are of decent value and at the same price point as the ones from J Press.

$137.00 lightweight khyber cloth "English drills"
https://www.bensilver.com/fs_storefront.asp?root=43&show=426&display=3926&group=1

$147.00 standard weight khyber cloth "English drills"
https://www.bensilver.com/fs_storefront.asp?root=43&show=426&display=3926&group=1


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## Luckycharmboi2 (May 30, 2009)

Living in a very hot and humid climate, I typically wear tropical weight worsteds or irish linen trousers in the summer with my navy blazer. I recently received as a gift a pair of linen cotton blend trousers which I'm considering. Generally speaking, though, I think plain cotton "khakis" are just a little informal for a navy blazer in the work setting. 

You might also want to think about some summer weight sport coats, rather than the navy blazer. The majority of my sport coats for summer are cotton (I have a great cotton/linen blend in navy), and I only pull out the navy wool blazer once in a while during the summer


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## berto (Nov 20, 2003)

Nordstrom house brand all-Supima Smart chinos. I just wore out a set and bought 4 more.


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## mfs (Mar 1, 2009)

Bills Driving Twill. I have them in both sage and khaki
color. I wear them with a blazer to work and special 
evenings all the time. They hold their shape and crease
very well. San Diego is not the heat and humidity of New
Orleans, but I do spend alot of time in a very small, non-
airconditioned airplane, on a runway in Bakersfield, Palm
Springs or Santa Monica, waiting for a clearance to return
to San Diego for a dinner and those Driving Twills look great
on arrival.


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## tlwhhf (Mar 1, 2010)

Thanks, all. Lots of good suggestions.


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## tintin (Nov 19, 2004)

I ordered some Berle khakis from Big Lots ($50-ish bucks) and was surprised to see they were made in Mexico and looked awful. I don't know the whole story. Is anyone aware if Berle has moved manuf off shore 100%?


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

tintin said:


> I ordered some Berle khakis from Big Lots ($50-ish bucks) and was surprised to see they were made in Mexico and looked awful. I don't know the whole story. Is anyone aware if Berle has moved manuf off shore 100%?


Sorry to hear you received some poor quality Berle trousers made overseas. Here's Berle's statement about where they manufacture from their website.

*"Q. Where does Berle make its trousers?*
*A. *We make the majority of our trousers in the U.S. at our factory in Hartwell, Ga. To help meet the needs of our customers, however, we also make trousers throughout the world."


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## jamgood (Feb 8, 2006)

Tropical weight wool doeskin flannel. Not as tightly woven as "summer gabs". Relatively rare in the 21st century. May now be exorbitantly expensive.

https://www.thefind.com/search?query=doeskin+flannel

(?..ordered from Big-Lots? !Will wonders never cease? The most recent Barry Bricken trousers I spotted at Marshalls were made in Vietnam.)


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