# Chukka Boots -- Russell Moccasin Co. vs. Alden



## M. Charles (Mar 31, 2007)

For several years I've had a pair of Chukka boots from Clarks England. They were comfortable and gave me good service but are now quite worn out. This fall I will be looking to replace them. So far I like three different models -- one in the Alden Cape Cod series and two from the Russell Moccasin Co. All are similarly priced and at the high end of what I'm willing to pay. I would appreciate your thoughts and suggestions about comparing the three models.

Note: I would be looking to wear these as casual shoes, with cords and an OCBD and perhaps even a corduroy or tweed jacket, not for hiking or any serious outdoors use. Also, I usually wear a "C" narrow width, but the Aldens only come in D. Not sure if this would make that much difference though with heavy socks.

Many thanks for your help, MC

1. Alden Handsewn Chukka Boot -- Cape Cod Series (Lug Outsole)

https://www.aldenshop.com/DrawOneShoe.asp?CategoryID=116

2. Russell Moccasin Co. Kangaroo Chukka with Crepe Sole (Custom Fit, but have to wait 18 weeks).

Not sure what to think about Kangaroo leather...but looks nice.

3. Russell Moccasin Co. Premier Chukka (Custom Fit, 18 weeks)

Note: I would probably get this with the crepe sole rather than the gumshoe sole, so that it would look a little more dressy. I would also probably choose the Navigator leather (the brown model on the left in the picture.)

https://www.russellmoccasin.com/shoes_chukka/chukka_premierchukka.html


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## paper clip (May 15, 2006)

*another choice at a lower pricepoint*

This Orvis looked good to me:


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## familyman (Sep 9, 2005)

Visually I prefer the design of the Kangaroo Chukka (only the quarters are kangaroo) but I'd have them do it up in Navigator leather. So really I'm describing the basic Chukka. The good thing about Russell is the options. You can choose your leather and whether you want a heel counter or not and the sole and really get the boot you want. The 18 week wait is a long time but the boots should last so long that in the scheme of things it won't really be an issue.


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## Naval Gent (May 12, 2007)

I've had one pair of Russell Bird Shooters for 25+ years and another for slightly less than that. Very high quality products, but I consider mine "boots" (even my ankle height ones) rather than casual shoes. The new thicker rubber soles they re-did mine with are slightly heavy. Great for a tramp behind my setter or working in the yard all day, but not my go-to shoes for casual bumming around. YMMV.

The Kangaroo might be lighter. I have some soccer shoes made with kangaroo leather. (Puma King Classics - THE Trad cleat :icon_smile_wink: )

BTW, Russell beat their estimated repair time by half when I sent mine back. 18 weeks might be a worst case scenario.

Scott


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## M. Charles (Mar 31, 2007)

familyman said:


> Visually I prefer the design of the Kangaroo Chukka (only the quarters are kangaroo) but I'd have them do it up in Navigator leather. So really I'm describing the basic Chukka. The good thing about Russell is the options. You can choose your leather and whether you want a heel counter or not and the sole and really get the boot you want. The 18 week wait is a long time but the boots should last so long that in the scheme of things it won't really be an issue.


What a great suggestion, Familyman! I just called Ralph at Russell Moccasin and he's sending me a sample of the Navigator leather (apparently comes in two different shades of brown.) So far this is my preferred option.

What, by the way, is the heel counter exactly?

Thanks also to paperclip. The Orvis are nice shoes, but I really don't like the lug soles. That's my strike against the Alden's right now too.


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## abc123 (Jun 4, 2006)

A few months ago, I saw a dark brown shell cordovan chukka boot with a dainte sole at the Ralph Lauren store. It was very, very nice. You may want to check out that option - I was very impressed with the shoe.

If they have it at the fall 40+15% off sale, I'm definately picking it up.


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

Familyman,
Good to see your post


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## familyman (Sep 9, 2005)

M. Charles said:


> What, by the way, is the heel counter exactly?


It's the hard part in the heel that gives the heel part of the shoe some support around the heel/achilles area. A lot of the chukka boots I see are completely soft and don't have a counter for some reason. I like them so I'd certainly have one put in a pair of shoes like this. 
Talk to them, they can build you a pair of chukkas that are exactly what you want (as long as you want true moccasin construction) no need to compromise.


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## TradTeacher (Aug 25, 2006)

Don't know if it's an option worth considering or not, but J. Crew has an Italian-made leather Chukka boot coming out this fall. I saw pics of it yesterday in store (one of the salesmen let me flip through the fall "look book") and it looked pretty good. Not sure of a price or if it would just be better to pay a bit more for Russells (as I'm sure is the case), but I figured I'd mention it...

TT:teacha:


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## donk93953 (Feb 8, 2007)

Russell makes a great boot.Period.

My view on Alden's Chukka is noted here askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?t=67537.

You might take a look at Crockett & Jones...my dos centavos


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

My choice would be the Russell kangaroo chuckas'. There are no finer, more comfortable boots than Russell's upland game boots...period!


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## Naval Gent (May 12, 2007)

One more thing about the Russells. Their "moccasin toe" construction is a bit different from the Aldens you linked to, as well as the usual LL Bean type Camp / Blucher Moc. Most moc toe seams are sewn sort of edge to edge. On the Russells, the top piece of leather wraps around the edge of the bottom piece, and then it is sewn through all three layers. This construction makes a more waterproof seam (very useful for field boots), but one which has a larger and more prominent seam. Russell does the conventional seam on their loafers, (they call it a hand-sewn seam) and you might be able to request it if that matters to you.

Scott


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## Speas (Mar 11, 2004)

Naval Gent said:


> One more thing about the Russells. Their "moccasin toe" construction is a bit different from the Aldens you linked to, as well as the usual LL Bean type Camp / Blucher Moc. Most moc toe seams are sewn sort of edge to edge. On the Russells, the top piece of leather wraps around the edge of the bottom piece, and then it is sewn through all three layers. This construction makes a more waterproof seam (very useful for field boots), but one which has a larger and more prominent seam. Russell does the conventional seam on their loafers, (they call it a hand-sewn seam) and you might be able to request it if that matters to you.
> 
> Scott


Its somewhat difficult to see, but the pic on the site shows the construction:

https://www.russellmoccasin.com/truemocconstruction.html

FWIW, I just ordered a brown scotch grain penny from Russell last week. I'll report back when I have them in hand. Also found out talking with Russell that the Gro-cord soles have been discontinued.


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## Naval Gent (May 12, 2007)

Thank you for the illustration. You see how the top seam makes a more prominent bump. Almost like a beef roll, but without the overlapping stitches.

Scott


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## JLibourel (Jun 13, 2004)

I know that we had a lengthy debate on this topic a year or so ago, but most, if not all, the boots illustrated in this thread are not what I consider "real" or "true" chukka boots. (The kangaroo-hide Russell might be an exception). They just strike me as moc-toe, ankle-high outdoor boots. They may be excellent boots for their intended purposes, but they're not what I have ever called a chukka boot. To me, a classic chukka boot is a tad lower than most ankle boots, has a distinctive cut, no more than three pairs of eyelets and usually a plain toe.


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## vwguy (Jul 23, 2004)

Naval Gent said:


> The Kangaroo might be lighter. I have some soccer shoes made with kangaroo leather. (Puma King Classics - THE Trad cleat :icon_smile_wink: )


Let's not forget about Adidas Copas 

Brian


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## M. Charles (Mar 31, 2007)

JLibourel said:


> I know that we had a lengthy debate on this topic a year or so ago, but most, if not all, the boots illustrated in this thread are not what I consider "real" or "true" chukka boots. (The kangaroo-hide Russell might be an exception). They just strike me as moc-toe, ankle-high outdoor boots. They may be excellent boots for their intended purposes, but they're not what I have ever called a chukka boot. To me, a classic chukka boot is a tad lower than most ankle boots, has a distinctive cut, no more than three pairs of eyelets and usually a plain toe.


This is very interesting, as I hadn't ever considered the design of a chukka as such. What would be an example (photo or link perhaps?) of a real chukka in your opinion? I stand in need of education on this matter.


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## TradTeacher (Aug 25, 2006)

M. Charles said:


> This is very interesting, as I hadn't ever considered the design of a chukka as such. What would be an example (photo or link perhaps?) of a real chukka in your opinion? I stand in need of education on this matter.


I believe this is an example of such a shoe:

https://www.bensilver.com/fs_storefront.asp?root=112&show=411&display=5230&group=1

Probably out of your (and most everyone's) price range, but an example none the less...

TT:teacha:


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## Naval Gent (May 12, 2007)

JLibourel said:


> To me, a classic chukka boot is a tad lower than most ankle boots, has a distinctive cut, no more than three pairs of eyelets and usually a plain toe.


I think you are absolutely correct on the terminology, and TT pegs it with the photo. I've always thought of my Russells as my short boots or my tall boots. To me real chukkas were for guys with safari jackets and literary degrees. (not bad, just not me)



vwguy said:


> Let's not forget about Adidas Copas Brian


A venerable boot, indeed, but on the King Classic the trademark wing or swoosh or whatever is black, making quite the understated appearance. The Copa still has the three stripes, right?

Scott
(still chugging it out in the C League)


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## Speas (Mar 11, 2004)

If you are lucky with the sizing, the Stafford's catalog has Russell chukkas on sale for $105.

https://www.stafford-catalog.com/prodinfo.asp?number=0606


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## neyus (Jan 12, 2005)

I agree with Trad Teacher. The boots featured earlier should not be considered classically styled chukka boots.

https://www.rmwilliams.com.au/home.asp?pageid=30A4383191C26B9B&departmentproducttypegroupid=9C8322E9C7C024FB&productid=2DE78FFCF3E7AA2F&producttypeid=3AECD6850AE70656

Heres a cheaper version from RM Williams.


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## wolfhound986 (Jun 30, 2007)

These Alden chukkas might be an option to consider, I have this pair in dark brown and they've held held up well the past 3 years (for casual wear, not hiking!):

https://www.aldenshop.com/DrawOneShoe.asp?CategoryID=66

Alden also has an unlined chukka:

https://www.aldenshop.com/DrawOneShoe.asp?CategoryID=90

These are all offered in C, D, and E widths, according to the website for the Alden Shop in SF.


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