# Classic Sneakers



## AshScache (Feb 4, 2013)

Anyone have any view on a nice trad-compatible sneaker?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## drlivingston (Jun 21, 2012)

Are you speaking of true classic sneakers that are trad compatible? Or are you talking about currently available sneakers that are trad compatible?


----------



## AshScache (Feb 4, 2013)

Currently available!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## oxford cloth button down (Jan 1, 2012)

Keds
Vans
Sperry CVOs
Treton nylite
Chuck Taylors
Stan Smiths
Rod Lavers

The most modern trad sneaker is a pair of grey New Balance 990/993 Made in USA.

Here is a post that Billax wrote about sneakers: https://oxfordclothbuttondown.com/2013/03/sneakers-by-billax/


----------



## gamma68 (Mar 24, 2013)

I picked up a pair of white Sperry CVOs on clearance this summer and absolutely LOVE them. Very comfortable. Very Trad.


----------



## Uncle Bill (May 4, 2010)

Low cut Converse Chuck Taylors, that is all.


----------



## Ensiferous (Mar 5, 2012)

The NB 993 is my only go-to for this type of shoe. It is not "classic" in the 1955 to 1965 context, but it is (to me) the perfect current evolution of the same type of shoe I wore in the 1970s.


----------



## drlivingston (Jun 21, 2012)

It is interesting to notice the similarities in what some people call "normcore" and what others deem "classic".


----------



## Duvel (Mar 16, 2014)

Love my Sperry CVOs.


----------



## efdll (Sep 11, 2008)

oxford cloth button down said:


> Keds
> Vans
> Sperry CVOs
> Treton nylite
> ...


A trad quandary. I too grew up with what we may now call trad sneakers, and I own a pair of pretty new white Converse Jack Purcell. They look terrific with casual trad gear (and I saw an elegant gent not long ago at the old Biltmore Hotel in Coral Gables wearing a pair with blazer and chinos), but though they may have been state-of-the-art sports shoes back in the day, in our time they seem flimsy. Instructive to remember that sneakers are primarily functional, i.e. designed for maximum sports efficiency, whether tennis, basketball, running. etc. And their functionality has advanced with time, though design-wise they may not be pleasing to the trad eye. So does one sacrifice efficiency, comfort and even safety for the sake of style? I'd argue that this would run contrary to trad attitude, and that to do so would be taking style to the level of period costume. A good running/training shoe is an excellent walking shoe -- another thread here argued that "walkers" by Alden and the like can't compete with a good running shoe for serious walking. Within their style range there are "vintage" models, but the '80's, really? Hardly halcyon days of trad. In fact, that decade saw the business suit/running shoe combo that urban men and women wore on their way to the office, not the best look. I think that for serious physical activity on one's feet one should wear the most functional shoes, whether sneakers or hiking shoes or Bean duck boots. For anything less strenous, wear what you think suits your style.


----------



## Billax (Sep 26, 2011)

Many thanks to OCBD for linking to a post I originally made here (AAAT) and which OCBD subsequently published on his terrific blog. There is no doubt that Keds sneakers are the oldest sneakers – and little doubt that Keds and Sperrys became the preferred sneakers – on campuses nationwide during the heyday of the Ivy League Look. After wearing Keds Champions continuously and exclusively since I was sixteen (1958), the build quality of Keds has diminished enough so that I recently switched brands. Just my $0.02


----------



## oxford cloth button down (Jan 1, 2012)

efdll said:


> A trad quandary. I too grew up with what we may now call trad sneakers, and I own a pair of pretty new white Converse Jack Purcell. They look terrific with casual trad gear (and I saw an elegant gent not long ago at the old Biltmore Hotel in Coral Gables wearing a pair with blazer and chinos), but though they may have been state-of-the-art sports shoes back in the day, in our time they seem flimsy. Instructive to remember that sneakers are primarily functional, i.e. designed for maximum sports efficiency, whether tennis, basketball, running. etc. And their functionality has advanced with time, though design-wise they may not be pleasing to the trad eye. So does one sacrifice efficiency, comfort and even safety for the sake of style? I'd argue that this would run contrary to trad attitude, and that to do so would be taking style to the level of period costume. A good running/training shoe is an excellent walking shoe -- another thread here argued that "walkers" by Alden and the like can't compete with a good running shoe for serious walking. Within their style range there are "vintage" models, but the '80's, really? Hardly halcyon days of trad. In fact, that decade saw the business suit/running shoe combo that urban men and women wore on their way to the office, not the best look. I think that for serious physical activity on one's feet one should wear the most functional shoes, whether sneakers or hiking shoes or Bean duck boots. For anything less strenous, wear what you think suits your style.


I am with you. Like most men I am just another failed athelete  I am a runner among other things and I run in current model shoes (usually Saucony and Nike Free). My suggestions above were based on what I would wear in a casual non-athletic setting where I would want to wear boat shoes or mocs. Maybe a barbecue or tailgating. This is what I thought the OP was looking for. However, I did include the current New Balance which is a great walker and I would consider a contender for current classic.


----------



## Duvel (Mar 16, 2014)

For "training," i.e., long bicycle rides or working out, I often wear my blue-suede Adidas Gazelles. Not exactly true trad, more like '70s retro, I guess.


----------



## Trad-ish (Feb 19, 2011)

drlivingston said:


> It is interesting to notice the similarities in what some people call "normcore" and what others deem "classic".


An astute observation.


----------



## Trad-ish (Feb 19, 2011)

Ensiferous said:


> The NB 993 is my only go-to for this type of shoe. It is not "classic" in the 1955 to 1965 context, but it is (to me) the perfect current evolution of the same type of shoe I wore in the 1970s.


----------



## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

Nothing particularly fresh to add to the insights above, but my personal experience is that with an arch insert for my stupidly flat feet, I where Chuck Taylor and Vans as my casual Trad sneaker attire (as OCBD said, in situations where a boat shoe or moc would work). I love their look with jeans or chinos and would highly recommend them.

But for athletics, true athletics - I work out a lot - I own modern Nike's and Mizunos. Our old Trad favorites can't compete with the construction, engineering and support of these modern sneakers when you are engaged in real athletics. But to get some bread and coffee this morning, it felt great to throw on my chinos and Vans.


----------



## Reuben (Aug 28, 2013)

Billax said:


> Many thanks to OCBD for linking to a post I originally made here (AAAT) and which OCBD subsequently published on his terrific blog. There is no doubt that Keds sneakers are the oldest sneakers - and little doubt that Keds and Sperrys became the preferred sneakers - on campuses nationwide during the heyday of the Ivy League Look. After wearing Keds Champions continuously and exclusively since I was sixteen (1958), the build quality of Keds has diminished enough so that I recently switched brands. Just my $0.02


What'd you switch to, Bill? I just ordered a pair of Keds to replace the worn-out Sperries I'd been wearing because I liked how simple and plain they were (once I cut off the tags).


----------



## Billax (Sep 26, 2011)

Reuben said:


> What'd you switch to, Bill? I just ordered a pair of Keds to replace the worn-out Sperries I'd been wearing because I liked how simple and plain they were (once I cut off the tags).


Van's Canvas Authentics, Reuben. I, too, cut off the tags. Seeing that I've had them for only a month, I have no idea how well they'll wear. The rubber on my Ked's Champions started delaminating where it joined the canvas and the sole together after eight or nine months. The Van's looked most similar to the Keds, so I'm trying them.

Thanks for asking.


----------



## gaseousclay (Nov 8, 2009)

Duvel said:


> For "training," i.e., long bicycle rides or working out, I often wear my blue-suede Adidas Gazelles. Not exactly true trad, more like '70s retro, I guess.


All of my sneakers are retro styles - NB 574's and Adidas ZX500's. I'm thinking of buying a pair of Nike Air Pegasus 89's as well


----------



## Oak City Trad (Aug 2, 2014)

For my grandfather, it would've been Sperrys. A true waterman, through and through.

I've got an old pair of Vans slip-ons in an almost PoW pattern that I love. NBs have treated me well too, but I'd try to avoid the Steve Carell look.


----------



## Duvel (Mar 16, 2014)

I took my Sperry CVOs on vacation to the coast of Maine, thinking they would help me fit right in. I didn't see another soul wearing them the whole time.



Oak City Trad said:


> For my grandfather, it would've been Sperrys. A true waterman, through and through.
> 
> I've got an old pair of Vans slip-ons in an almost PoW pattern that I love. NBs have treated me well too, but I'd try to avoid the Steve Carell look.


----------



## Oak City Trad (Aug 2, 2014)

Duvel said:


> I took my Sperry CVOs on vacation to the coast of Maine, thinking they would help me fit right in. I didn't see another soul wearing them the whole time.


But it looks so lifelike on Muffy's blog! Trad is dead, remember?

After the Navy, sailing was his thing. The old-timer wore nautical flag surcingles, suspenders, and top-siders but would've been perplexed by the words "trad", "prep", et al.


----------



## Duvel (Mar 16, 2014)

Maine actually looked quite a bit like Muffy's site, I have to say, what we saw of it, anyway. I actually saw a lot of LL Bean wear, especially the outerwear, e.g., anoraks, rain jackets, etc. I think I even saw some Bean boots one rainy day. I was surprised at the absence of Sperry CVOs. However, I did note some AO brown Sperry Topsiders here and there.



Oak City Trad said:


> But it looks so lifelike on Muffy's blog! Trad is dead, remember?
> 
> After the Navy, sailing was his thing. The old-timer wore nautical flag surcingles, suspenders, and top-siders but would've been perplexed by the words "trad", "prep", et al.


----------



## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

Some of the comments regarding the differences between "trad" sneakers and "athletic" sneakers are interesting. Believe it or not, the gap between the two is actually very narrow given the popularity of barefoot running/training. The Chuck Taylor is actually the preferred budget-friendly option among weight lifters and cross fit enthusiasts for training shoes, since the lack of arch support and heel rise allow the foot muscles to work properly. My workout shoes have always been New Balance. I currently wear a pair of NB Minimus sneakers which have about as much support as a boat shoe but weigh a only a fraction.

For casual (non-athletic) wear, I have Vans authentics and Sperry CVOs. I've owned Purcells also. I think OCBD's list is pretty much complete as far as options.


----------



## drlivingston (Jun 21, 2012)

hardline_42 said:


> My workout shoes have always been New Balance. I currently wear a pair of NB Minimus.


The Minimus is a phenomenal running shoe as well for those who don't require the arch support. I grew up running barefoot around military bases so my feet are accustomed to minimal padding and support. The Minimus just feels like a natural covering for my foot. Sure, mine are gaudily colored and have reflective badging for twilight running. However, they were never intended to be trad.


----------



## Oak City Trad (Aug 2, 2014)

Duvel said:


> Maine actually looked quite a bit like Muffy's site, I have to say, what we saw of it, anyway. I actually saw a lot of LL Bean wear, especially the outerwear, e.g., anoraks, rain jackets, etc. I think I even saw some Bean boots one rainy day. I was surprised at the absence of Sperry CVOs. However, I did note some AO brown Sperry Topsiders here and there.


Gorgeous country up that way. But hey, in the footwear department you showed em how it's done!


----------



## Walter Denton (Sep 11, 2011)

I think OCBD's list was a good one as well, although I would add Jack Purcells. Like Billax I wore Keds exclusively in the 50s and 60s. In the 70s I switched to Jack Purcells and right now I'm happy with my Sperry CVOs. I wear sneakers in situations where I might otherwise wear boat shoes. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Reuben (Aug 28, 2013)

Billax said:


> Van's Canvas Authentics, Reuben. I, too, cut off the tags. Seeing that I've had them for only a month, I have no idea how well they'll wear. The rubber on my Ked's Champions started delaminating where it joined the canvas and the sole together after eight or nine months. The Van's looked most similar to the Keds, so I'm trying them.
> 
> Thanks for asking.


I'll be interested to see how my experiences match up with yours, Bill. I'll try to remember to report back once I've put a good fifty or sixty miles in them.


----------



## Billax (Sep 26, 2011)

Walter Denton said:


> ... I wear sneakers in situations where I might otherwise wear boat shoes.


Ditto, Walter.


----------



## oxford cloth button down (Jan 1, 2012)

Walter Denton said:


> I think OCBD's list was a good one as well, although I would add Jack Purcells. Like Billax I wore Keds exclusively in the 50s and 60s. In the 70s I switched to Jack Purcells and right now I'm happy with my Sperry CVOs. I wear sneakers in situations where I might otherwise wear boat shoes.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Good catch Walter. I would add in Jack Purcell's too. They have a great silhouette.


----------



## Duvel (Mar 16, 2014)

Jack Purcells are a problem. I used to wear them a lot, but a couple of years ago, Jack Purcells were reincarnated in a version that lacks many of the nice details that made them so great. Granted, the details are cosmetic, but isn't that important? Among the changes, the "smile" is no longer indented, the embroidered tongue label is gone, and the shoe laces no longer have metal tips.


----------



## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

Duvel said:


> Jack Purcells are a problem. I used to wear them a lot, but a couple of years ago, Jack Purcells were reincarnated in a version that lacks many of the nice details that made them so great. Granted, the details are cosmetic, but isn't that important? Among the changes, the "smile" is no longer indented, the embroidered tongue label is gone, and the shoe laces no longer have metal tips.


Are you sure about this? I had a pair purchased a couple of years ago and they still had all the features you mentioned. It would be a real shame if they got rid of all those details.


----------



## ricardofrancisco (Jan 1, 2013)

I have a pair of vans in blue, jack purcells in white and newish ones from aquila in black. I would love to get my hands on a pair of vintage GATs though.


----------



## ricardofrancisco (Jan 1, 2013)

Duvel said:


> Jack Purcells are a problem. I used to wear them a lot, but a couple of years ago, Jack Purcells were reincarnated in a version that lacks many of the nice details that made them so great. Granted, the details are cosmetic, but isn't that important? Among the changes, the "smile" is no longer indented, the embroidered tongue label is gone, and the shoe laces no longer have metal tips.


Converse recently released vintage re-issues of the Jack Purcell sneaker. These have aluminium grommets and aglets as well as a cork insole. Since they're limited, they're priced twice as expensive as your normal pair. They look a lot nicer though.


----------



## jimw (May 4, 2009)

I bought a pair of grey, Converse One Stars from Target and quite like them. I don't think they're quite as sturdy as the American made Chucks I used to wear, but they seem no different than the Chinese made All Stars they turn out these days. Plus, for $29 they appeal to my sense of personal thrift.


----------



## mfs (Mar 1, 2009)

As a kid in the 50's and 60's we wore Ked's, PF Flyers and Red Ball sneakers. PF Flyers and Red Ball were high tops.

Since moving out to the coast, we spent most of our time near the Converse store in the Clairemont neighborhood, amongst a few surf shops, wearing Chuck's. Today it is primarily Sperry CVO's and Vans. All are great beach shoes.


----------



## Oak City Trad (Aug 2, 2014)

jimw said:


> I bought a pair of grey, Converse One Stars from Target and quite like them. I don't think they're quite as sturdy as the American made Chucks I used to wear, but they seem no different than the Chinese made All Stars they turn out these days. Plus, for $29 they appeal to my sense of personal thrift.


I also read somewhere that the soles now have little pieces of rubber everywhere so that they could be classified as house slippers, leading to some sort of tax/tariff advantage.

While many of my cohort growing up loved their Chucks, I was always a Vans man.


----------



## cincydavid (May 21, 2012)

I tried reverting to my 1980s staple, traditional K-Swiss all-white tennis shoes, but they hurt my feet in the worst way. I tried Stan Smiths but they seemed awfully narrow...still on the lookout for something that'll look and feel OK.


----------



## ricardofrancisco (Jan 1, 2013)

I just got a pair of Generic Surplus Wellingtons earlier today. I think they look great though I don't know how they'll hold up.

These aren't mine but this is the same exact model I picked up.


----------



## MythReindeer (Jul 3, 2013)

Whenever I get around to buying new sneakers, they will likely be these in "All Natural:" https://www.industryofallnations.com/KENYATAS-all-natural-br-PID11123-CNNAT.aspx?mmcid=12709

A few bucks more than the Converse All Stars I have worn for years, but they seem nice.


----------



## blue suede shoes (Mar 22, 2010)

I have to wonder why every one of the brand names mentioned in this thread come in only one width. Its great if you are a teenager, but if you are older and your feet have spread out in middle age, none of these would work. Guess I'll have to stick to boat shoes as my only casual shoes.


----------



## MythReindeer (Jul 3, 2013)

blue suede shoes said:


> I have to wonder why every one of the brand names mentioned in this thread come in only one width. Its great if you are a teenager, but if you are older and your feet have spread out in middle age, none of these would work. Guess I'll have to stick to boat shoes as my only casual shoes.


As someone with narrow feet (actually narrow, like B width), even most boat shoes are non-starters.


----------



## Tim_McD (Aug 20, 2012)

New Balance comes in a variety of widths, even with the old school styles.

I was contemplating a pair of classic NB or Nike Cortez, but instead I chose a pair of Onitsuka Tiger (the Rio) in white. Those (along with my Chuck Taylor lows in optic white and my Addidas shell toes) complete my "old school" sneaker collection.

The only thing that would really tempt me was a pair of Spot Built coach shoes; white with the black or navy stripe.



blue suede shoes said:


> I have to wonder why every one of the brand names mentioned in this thread come in only one width. Its great if you are a teenager, but if you are older and your feet have spread out in middle age, none of these would work. Guess I'll have to stick to boat shoes as my only casual shoes.


----------



## ricardofrancisco (Jan 1, 2013)

Here's the pair I purchased yesterday. They were on special so I got them for 60% off from the retail price.


----------



## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

Those really look good. Is that a suede toe and canvas sides?


----------



## ricardofrancisco (Jan 1, 2013)

Peak and Pine said:


> Those really look good. Is that a suede toe and canvas sides?


Yes that is correct. They're quite soft inside too.


----------



## DownSouth (Jun 30, 2005)

Don't own a pair, but for casual wear, I've been considering the Superga canvas sneaker. It has a classic look.


----------



## Natty Beau (Apr 29, 2014)

oxford cloth button down said:


> Keds
> Vans
> Sperry CVOs
> Treton nylite
> ...


I haven't owned half of these, but I tend to associate different sneakers with difference ages.

I had Chuck Taylors as a child, Vans as a college man, and now I'm hunting for a pair of Keds, which if Fred Rogers was any indication, should be suitable for the rest of my life.


----------



## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

"Tea and Sympathy" and Chinos and Sneakers Oh My

Didn't want to create a new thread for this narrow topic, so I'm trying to shoehorn it into this older one.

I watched the first ten or so minutes of "Tea and Sympathy" yesterday - okay movie, great Ivy clothes at college movie - and the lead character - a college student - was wearing belted back, flat front, high-rise chinos, an OCBD(pretty sure, never got a close up of the fabric - but looked like it) and sneakers (also, never got a close up, but did freeze frame it a few times and I'm pretty confident they were sneakers). See not great images below - the first one kinda shows the sneakers and the second done gives you a color shot of him but without the sneakers in the frame.

The movie was made in 1956, so this is pretty good evidence of sneakers with chinos in the mid-50s - something I believe we've debated the start date of in the past. 

Away from that little find, the movie is a treasure trove of Ivy clothes at college in their heyday (even though most of the movie takes place in the '40s as a look-back, you don't get the feel they were really altering the clothes - looks very college '50s to me).


----------



## housemartin (Nov 24, 2012)

I've got navy seavees cvo's. Pretty nice looking sneaker.


----------



## CSG (Nov 22, 2011)

White Jack Purcells were the popular sneaker in my youth. Some kids went with low top All-Stars but they were a little too goofy looking in my circle. Another good choice were Keds Champions. These were the traditional picks for the kids I knew living on LA's westside in the 60's.


----------



## greyflannel (Dec 24, 2015)

In the 70's- it was suede Pro Keds for me, late 70's-early 80's- on to the Nike high tops that were the rage- Stan Smith and Kswiss in college when my Trad leanings really took hold.


----------



## orange fury (Dec 8, 2013)

I wore Converse low tops in middle school/high school, and switched over to New Balance in college. I currently have Vans Authentic Originials in white and NB 993's in gray. Originally, the padded collar of the CVO bothered me (it just seemed too bulky), but Ive been playing with the idea of getting some


----------



## AshScache (Feb 4, 2013)

I ultimately went with New Balance 501's.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------

