# The Officially Unofficial Coat Thread



## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

Greetings All,

I seem to be in headlong free fall down the slippery slope of mens coats. My recent purchases of a vintage Burberry trench coat and contemporary Barbour waxed cotton jacket have made me realize that they are the only two outerwear garments in my wardrobe for which I hold any genuine affection.

They just seem to be infused with character and style, with a neat bit of history behind them to sweeten the deal. The rest of my pre-existing outerwear options are all very much okay, but neither delight nor inspire.

As I continue to ponder my future purchases, I have been a bit frustrated in my AAAC research by the absence of a dedicated coat thread.

A recent and very informative article was recently posted here: https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/threads/the-ask-andy-guide-to-winter-coats.242236/

And of course there are untold dozens of separate threads dealing with specific inquiries about particular garments.

I have always felt that it is better to create the type of content one wishes for, rather than merely complaining of its absence - so this is my attempt to do so. You are all invited to contribute any and all content on the subject of men's coats - all styles that might be worn in all seasons are welcome.

Please post questions, discussions points, recent purchases, and perhaps especially any exemplary samples you have come across in your sartorial browsing. Such can be a welcome source of inspiration!

I'll start with my most recent purchase, which arrived just moments ago from across the pond (impressively, in just two business days) from The Rake.

It is a Grenfell Cloth double-breasted Shooter Jacket in what I feel to be a particularly attractive shade of olive green.

Photos below are courtesy of https://therake.com/ - I'll add my own fit pics and some first impressions when the opportunity presents.

Some random out-of the-box thoughts:


The material has a pleasant sheen and a lovely drape.
I like the belted look on a short coat - something less often seen in today's men's coats.
The interior game pockets are a nostalgic reminder of my Pheasant hunts in the past, but will far more likely be stuffed with more pedestrian accouterments in this instance.
I am next considering a long coat - well likely more than one. Some variation of a trench coat in a cotton / gabardine and something in a heavier and more formal wool / cashmere.

A duffle coat is also on the wish list, and I'm even pondering a parka.

So what floats your boat in men's coats? Please share.


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

That's a handsome utilitarian coat. I agree the belt makes all the difference in the world. There are far too many beltless coats out there.

I have a number of older coats I consider special and unique, but I can't compare mine with those taken by a professional photographer. So I'll post two of my favorites, which are new enough that I can grab the photos from the websites.

They have been seen before, but this is a good venue to showcase them. I'll add the others that warrant sharing with poor quality home pics as they get worn.

First up, Cordings Original Covert Coat.

The cloth is made to the original standards by the mill that invented it, Fox Bros.

























It hits all the right buttons. Coming to below the knee (IRL as opposed to the extremely tall model wearing it), with a wrinkle proof drape.

The purple Cordings lining, and under collar crest are a nice touch known only to the wearer. Incredibly cold, wind and water resistant, not to mention thorn proof and camouflages horse hair.

The inside poachers pocket can hold my hat, gloves, scarf, and iPhone without much bulge noticeable. Why it's even big enough for a rabbit!


















I have the brown velvet collar on mine. The railroad stitching gives it a distinctive touch. Worn with a suit, a sports coat or casually, it is the most versatile of winter coats.

Next up is my newest addition, and the one that gets the most compliments outside of the Covert coat.

The Robert Stoltz brand Austrian Tirol Loden Hunting Coat.

The color alone sets it apart. Then there is the dense but not overly heavy loden cloth. Water and wind bounce off of it. Cut in the traditional Austrian manner of large flowing coats, it swooshes around you as you walk, yet does not appear baggy.

Indeed it folds upon itself to give a regal drape. There are pass thru slots behind the pockets, so you can reach directly in to your trousers or inner coat to retrieve keys, wallet, extra cartridges.

The underarms are left open with the edges trimmed and stitched to allow freedom of motion in bringing your gun to bear. Yet with the passthroughs in the front and the openings under the armpits, no wind or cold enters.

The football leather buttons and throat latch finish it off. Or so one thinks, until you turn around, and reveal the dramatic arrow pleat.

Long, striking, regal and warm, it is a comfortable statement piece craving layering with chunky sweaters, suits, or heavy HT sports coats.

For those who want even more warmth (though I know not why), it comes in a style called "Shiver No More).

Same coat but without the front pass through, and with a zip in lining.


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

I found some usable pics of another great coat. I consider this the ultimate in warmth. A Marlboro Man style Shearling.

It was found accidentally during a visit to a now defunct Linden NJ leather jacket manufacturer. I went there looking for a bomber jacket only to find out that they had switched to producing only leather motorcycle jackets and police jackets, However the owner invited me to browse thru his ranks of dead stock.

It was then that I discovered 2 shearling that he sold to me for a song. The first, to be pictured later was a black leather shearling car coat, The other was the deep tan suede exterior, full shearling, shawl collar, Western style coat pictured here. It reminded me of the shearling coats worn on the Ponderosa, only heavier and thicker.

Made from Brazilian Shearling pelts, it weighs in at 6 pounds. It is unbranded with the only labeling being the size, contents, and an emblem certifying the Providence of the pelts.

I can see surviving a crossing of the Sierra Madres in the dead of winter on horseback, thru a blizzard in it.

Here I'm wearing it on The Big Island of Hawaii in 90 degree weather, preparing to trek to the top of Mona Loa where the temps reach below freezing.

It made for an odd sight at our beachfront hotel. But I was the envy of our small tour group when we were at altitude.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

Terrific contributions Momsdoc! The Robert Stoltz brand Austrian Tirol Loden Hunting Coat is a truly handsome garment. Is yours the "full" or "regular" fit from that brand?


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

I can’t tell you. When I purchased it last year there was only one fit. Your only choices were chest size and short, regular, or long.

Robert Stoltz was very accommodating in getting me into the right size. He has a distribution warehouse here in NJ and sent me 6 coats 36, 38, 40 in short and regular.

You might remember the pic I posted with my office covered in Loden coats. You would have to call the number on the website, which is answered by Robert, and inquire what fit last years model would correspond to.

They are by nature very full cut. I am a size 40 in all my overcoats. This one is a 38 R and with a heavy weight HT jacket and vest the shoulders fit.

I have been able to carry my 9 month old niece on my chest wearing said HT in a Baby Bjorn carrier and close the coat with plenty of room to spare and still have room to hide a small child Or two under the skirt of the coat. 

I’m 5’9” and it falls halfway between the bottom of my knee and my ankle


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

momsdoc said:


> I can't tell you. When I purchased it last year there was only one fit. Your only choices were chest size and short, regular, or long.
> 
> Robert Stoltz wats very accommodating in getting me into the right size. He has a distribution warehouse here in NJ and sent me 6 coats 36, 38, 49 in short and regular. You might remember the pic I posted with my office covered in Loden coats. You would have to call the number on the website, which is answered by Robert, and inquire what fit last years model would correspond to.
> 
> They are by nature very full cut. I am a size 40 in all my overcoats. This one is a 38 R and with a heavy weight HT jacket and vest the shoulders fit, and I have been able to carry my 9 month old niece on my chest wearing said HT in a Baby Bjorn carrier and close the coat with plenty of room to spare and still have room to hide a small child Or two under the skirt of the coat. I'm 5'9" and it falls halfway between the bottom of my knee and my ankle


I'm guessing from the description that yours is the full cut - and they have since come out with a more trim fit that they chose to call "regular" - given that the full cut is recommended for layering over suit or sportcoat. But I would take your suggestion and call first if I chose to purchase one.

It didn't take long to give the Grenfell its first outing.


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## nb8790 (Apr 18, 2017)

A couple coat pictures for your consideration, which I've previously posted in the Trad forum.
A Brooks Bros "knock-off" of the classic Burberry trench, and Ralph Lauren's fairly accurate take on a polo coat. Also a Barbour Bedale pic for good measure.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

Bedale brothers! :beers:


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

Am I crazy?


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

I’m not sure if you’re crazy or inspired. Tell us about it. Are those shearling cuffs and collar or is it a full shearling? If its a full shearling I am getting intrigued.

In what circumstances would you wear it? The leather trim on the sleeves and on the bellows pockets make it a striking informal coat. I think those touches preclude a suit, but otherwise I can see it being worn for all other circumstances. 

it’s growing on me as I type. I really like the button closures. Is it loden, canvas, or melton?

do you have the Cajones to wear it. My first thought was that it was over the top. Now I’m at F**k it, I’d wear it. I’d be itching to have Jodhpurs on with it. Where on earth did you run across it? Why do I think it needs a scabbard and sword?


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

RogerP said:


> I'm guessing from the description that yours is the full cut - and they have since come out with a more trim fit that they chose to call "regular" - given that the full cut is recommended for layering over suit or sportcoat. But I would take your suggestion and call first if I chose to purchase one.
> 
> It didn't take long to give the Grenfell its first outing.


This is awesome. It's like a combination of some of my favourite pieces of clothing. Peacoats, field jackets, and a bit of safari jacket too.

Woof @ the pricing though!


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## icky thump (Feb 2, 2008)

Great stuff.

I recently bought a vintage camel duffle coat for $50 through Etsy and get more compliments than all my other coats combined.

I also bought a black Loden coat through landau which is nice. Add to that a Border which is now a size too big and a go-to Beaufort. The Barbours I tend to eschew below 30f. I also have a few casual parkas from Uniqlo which do the job when it is very cold. 

After watching “Peaky Blinders” I’m determined next one will be a Crombie. Redundant, probably.


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## nb8790 (Apr 18, 2017)

RogerP said:


> Am I crazy?


Ah, the "General Zhukov on campaign" look.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

delicious_scent said:


> This is awesome. It's like a combination of some of my favourite pieces of clothing. Peacoats, field jackets, and a bit of safari jacket too.
> 
> Woof @ the pricing though!


Cheers - that's a pretty good description! The pricing is a bit more palatable with the current sale, but I definitely hear you.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

nb8790 said:


> Ah, the "General Zhukov on campaign" look.


Indeed, it is an interesting and oddly appealing design, sort of like something one would expect to see worn in the iconic movie, Dr. Zhivago. I suspect RogerP could pull it off, but such is well beyond my ken!


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

Roger, 
I'm still anxiously awaiting to your response to my comments on that long green shearing lined long coat. The more I look, the more intrigued I get.

Meanwhile back at the farm, I'm sporting a Duffe Coat that has undergone a metamorphosis in my appreciation of it. Of course that invites the backstory.

A long, long time ago, in a Galaxy far, far away ( I'm going to Star Wars today with my son. Then getting Chinese take out to celebrate our 37th Anniversary and have a traditional Jew Christmas.).

Before I was woke sartorially, I had a desire for a Duffle Coat. Hav never heard of Gloverall or Schott, I ventured into Bloomingdale's in my quest. Circa 2000 more or less. I came upon this coat. It had horn toggles, sleeve epaulets, a detachable hood, and leather fittings. At the time, I was unaware that these were desirable characteristics. I just liked it.

It was very heavy and stiff, but I figured it would be warm. For the next few years I kicked myself for buying it as it was so heavy and stiff. I figured I would replace it one day with a more refined version.
By the time I joined AAAC it had a a dozen years of use and had softened considerably. I had lost 68 lbs by then, being about 30 lbs less than at the time of purchase. I was swimming in it. Thankfully, I had a good old school tailor at the time, and he did an excellent job taking it in. It still has room for all the heavy layering I could want, but doesn't look too big without the layering.

The wool has held up like iron, softer, but as pristine as the day the material was weaved. Absolutely no signs of wear in 20 years. I now consider it one of my ignorant, dumb luck purchases, and it gets frequent use.


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## StephenRG (Apr 7, 2005)

RogerP said:


> Am I crazy?


Conceivably, but you'd need more convincing evidence than that coat.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

momsdoc said:


> I'm not sure if you're crazy or inspired. Tell us about it. Are those shearling cuffs and collar or is it a full shearling? If its a full shearling I am getting intrigued.
> 
> In what circumstances would you wear it? The leather trim on the sleeves and on the bellows pockets make it a striking informal coat. I think those touches preclude a suit, but otherwise I can see it being worn for all other circumstances.
> 
> ...


Lol my friend I went through EXACTLY the same progression of thought. Cuffs, pockets and collar are shearling, lining is mohair. Millerain waxed cotton for the outer shell.

Would I wear it? Yes, I believe I would. Though it certainly would be a significant departure. It does present as something from a different place at time and arguably borders on costume - but it's also interesting and uncommon and the very opposite of boring.

I think a scabbard and sword would be the perfect accessories!

I found it here:


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## never behind (Jul 5, 2016)

Great thread idea Roger. Over the past year+ I have found myself wanting to start a coat collection. I purchased a nice overcoat from O’Connell’s and a Barbour Bedale. I added a duffel coat and USN pea coat from EBay. It’s been nice to have some options on what to wear. I’ll try to post some pictures in the coming days/weeks.


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

You may think you're crazy. Now I know I am.

My newest acquisition. Should arrive early next week.

Grenfell Tan Corduroy Labrador Coat


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

Ooooh, I had been checking that one out as well - terrific coat! Rendering a parka in lush corduroy was an inspired choice by Grenfell. Congrats - I shall look forward to your thoughts and pics. The navy Grenfell cloth version is also on my favorites list.


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

RogerP said:


> Ooooh, I had been checking that one out as well - terrific coat! Rendering a parka in lush corduroy was an inspired choice by Grenfell. Congrats - I shall look forward to your thoughts and pics. The navy Grenfell cloth version is also on my favorites list.


Great minds think alike. After ordering the corduroy parka, I decided that my brown tweed car coat and beige duffle coat fill othat niche for color, warmth, and length.

So I canceled the order, as I felt the Blue cloth Labrador would do better for me. Unfortunately it is not available in size 40, so I am attempting to contact The Rake to see if they do indeed have a 40 in stock, or if the 42 is a better choice with layering. I don't know what I'll end up doing if the cord is the only choice. It's a great looking coat and I'm sure I'll use it if forced to purchase it instead of the blue

Meanwhile, I am getting the Lucan Loden Green Tweed Norfolk Jacket to ease my pain. I was considering the brown, but the shoulder stock cushions seem too jarring to me. Besides the Loden seems more versatile.

I've often been intrigued about owning a Norfolk jacket. Something about the half belt, and back pleat appeals to me. But is it an outerwear jacket to wear over a sweater, or a casual jacket that supports a shirt and tie all by itself? I think both.

Does It replace my cord collared RL tan, lined golf jacket that's threadbare? Or do I still need a lined Harrington?

























I'm still hoping they bring back The Rubinacci Casentino Ulster Coat in mustard. That's the reason I went to The Rake in the first place. I came close to getting the bright green one (a Casentino should be garish IMO), but while I dithered, it sold out in my size.

Now back to the question at hand. Who's crazy?


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

Roger has given new impetus to my many years search for a navy overcoat. By bringing to my attention the sale at The Rake, I have been looking at their offerings and been intrigued by quite a number of them. Unfortunately the items I have gone to their website for have been sold out in my size. I have found a few things in my size that have interested me as I have noted above.

But the past 3 + year's search has been centered around filling a missing item I really need. A navy overcoat. I had been looking for something along the lines of a British Greatcoat. Something with military styling, but toned down to a more civilian useage. The Crombie military style greatcoat came closest but was too tamed of its military heritage for me. Most specifically, it lacks epaulets. The actual military coat comes in Air Force Blue which is too light a shade, and is sooo military as to appear costume like. I have felt the civilian version in navy was as close as I could get until now.

This one from The Rake hits all the right buttons. The notch collar is a subdued version of the ultra wide military coat's. It has the large double breasted button stance I prefer. It has patch pockets, epaulets, and importantly, the half back belt with center pleat. It's missing turn up sleeves or sleeve epaulets. Otherwise it's as close to a military greatcoat that I have seen without going over the top or being too tamed. It appears to me to be able to function as a dressy civilian overcoat, while not being a bland namby pansy Chesterfield. The sale price is too good to be true.

So what the problem? Well if it's too good to be true, then something is wrong In this case it's the material content. 56% Polyamide, 44% virgin wool. Am I being too hung up on that? It's not like the warmth factor is that important. 99% of the time I'll be in the car, or going and coming from it. I'll have the ability to wear a scarf or a warm tweed suit or sports coat or even a sweater. It's just that the purist in me recoils from such a high synthetic percentage.

Am I worrying about this too much? In all the many years I've looked at overcoats that have some military DNA still showing, this is the closest I've seen to the real deal that is suitable for civilian use, but still shows its heritage.

Should I overlook this material deficiency and be satisfied that it hits more styling points then anything else I've come across?









































Your input will be greatly appreciated. Meanwhile it's in my cart awaiting my final response. Then get me the H**L away from this website .


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

My short take: you've been searching for 3+ years for the RIGHT coat. Aesthetically, this ticks all the boxes. But it terms of materials, it does not. If your concern is based on purely functional considerations of comparative warmth, my guess is that this coat will serve perfectly well. If, as I suspect, there are dimensions engaged of personal preference for the traditional richness of all wool - then this may not be the RIGHT coat.

And yes, the website is a dangerous place. I'm presently frozen by indecision as between a half dozen differing options. Regrettably, or perhaps thankfully, I can't simply buy them all.

I absolutely love that Norfolk coat, by the way. Can't wait to see some real world pics. The charcoal grey version is causing me to lose sleep.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

Two similar Grenfell pieces that are high on my want list.

Option 1





Option 2





Fur collar is detachable for Option 1. Thoughts?


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

I would have already chosen the Dispatch Riders Coat if it had been in my size. The faux fur collar, bottom front button closure , bellows pockets and sleeve buttons make it stand apart from a regular Trench.

The second one is much like an ordinary trench save for the pockets and throat latch. And it lacks epaulets. IMO any Trench like coat needs epaulets.

Both in great colors and length.

thanks for your input on the navy coat. The close ups of the material shows the twill pattern fairly pronounced. No fuzziness. Reminds me of a heavy cav twill. 

IDK, I might just take a chance and see it IRL since their return policy is so good and easy. They will even pick it up from the office.

still no answer to the phone or emails. I suspect it’s due to the holidays. I’ll keep calling before pulling the trigger


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

^^^ They responded next day on average to my email inquiries, so if it's taking longer then I expect that's due to the holidays.

Given that you don't face the horrendous import duties that I do, taking a chance on an in-person look makes perfect sense.

And I had been leaning toward the despatch coat because it does stand out from the usual. If only it were on sale.


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

Yes, it comes in at the sale price under our $800 duty limit. I guess I will order it as it’s risk free. 

I can see how your duty situation can give you pause. The first Grenfell you posted is still growing on me. How high are the duties you would be hit with?

I can sense how this site and sale are beating you up. It almost makes me feel guilty that I can avail myself of their services risk free. Almost:icon_saint7kg:


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## JPM (Feb 5, 2013)

momsdoc said:


> Yes, it comes in at the sale price under our $800 duty limit. I guess I will order it as it's risk free.
> 
> I can see how your duty situation can give you pause. The first Grenfell you posted is still growing on me. How high are the duties you would be hit with?
> 
> I can sense how this site and sale are beating you up. It almost makes me feel guilty that I can avail myself of their services risk free. Almost:icon_saint7kg:


momsdoc, I'm in the market for a motorcycle jacket. What is the name of this manufacturer in NJ of which you speak?


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

I've been on a belted fetish run for the past couple years. Do I need the coats below? No, but I do want them!


















__
http://instagr.am/p/B5T6Qy2hmb4/


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

JPM said:


> momsdoc, I'm in the market for a motorcycle jacket. What is the name of this manufacturer in NJ of which you speak?


I do not remember. They went out of business about 15 years ago. The owner got divorced, closed up shop, retired for a few years, and was working at the Wegmans near me until he returned to his hometown in Greece 2 years ago.


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

delicious_scent said:


> I've been on a belted fetish run for the past couple years. Do I need the coats below? No, but I do want them!
> 
> I'm well acquainted with the concept of wanting and not needing. I also tend to go on fetish runs, arrow pleats, epaulets, and back belts are now taking their toll. I hope between these 2 coats and last winters Loden, that it's extinguished.
> 
> ...


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

I have no idea how my response got formatted that way. BTW, did I mention that I wear trousers daily? OMG😭


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

momsdoc said:


> Post!


Do you have any cotton suits or sports coats?

I initially thought they were a horrible idea due to their lack of drape and stiffness.

Then I read an article saying that's exactly the point. They mold, break in, and have inherently casual sensibilities.

Then it clicked in my head that's the best way for me to wear a suit without looking out of place.

A khaki cotton or olive suit is something I can see working year round for myself.


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

I have PC Poplin suits in sand and navy. I have a pin cord cotton suit. All my S?S sports coats are wool, linen or blends of either with silk. The cotton does conform to your body and there is little drape. They are also warmer than wool or linen. They are much heavier weight than a summer wool suit, and do not breath well.. Imagine wearing a suit the weight and thickness of your winter Chinos. They have their place as an alternative to wool, but I find Seersucker, linen and linen blends cooler and lighter to wear.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

momsdoc said:


> I have PC Poplin suits in sand and navy. I have a pin cord cotton suit. All my S?S sports coats are wool, linen or blends of either with silk. The cotton does conform to your body and there is little drape. They are also* warmer than wool *or linen. They are much heavier weight than a summer wool suit, and *do not breath well*.. Imagine wearing a suit the weight and thickness of your winter Chinos. They have their place as an alternative to wool, but I find Seersucker, linen and linen blends cooler and lighter to wear.


Oof, thank you for the heads up. I'm a walking furnace so they're not as practical for me as I thought.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

momsdoc said:


> Yes, it comes in at the sale price under our $800 duty limit. I guess I will order it as it's risk free.
> 
> I can see how your duty situation can give you pause. The first Grenfell you posted is still growing on me. How high are the duties you would be hit with?
> 
> I can sense how this site and sale are beating you up. It almost makes me feel guilty that I can avail myself of their services risk free. Almost:icon_saint7kg:


It seems to be quite variable, but combined duties and takes will generally be in the range of 20%. Returns on higher end items can be quite painful as a consequence.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

delicious_scent said:


> I've been on a belted fetish run for the past couple years. Do I need the coats below? No, but I do want them!
> 
> View attachment 38448
> 
> ...


Definite YES to all of the above.


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## nb8790 (Apr 18, 2017)

delicious_scent said:


> Oof, thank you for the heads up. I'm a walking furnace so they're not as practical for me as I thought.


Well-made poplin suits are hard to find, and usually too expensive to be worth it, but they are light and breathable. Not as much as linen, but they wrinkle less. O'Connell's has quite a few in traditional configurations, and Haspel is another source. Fresco / open-weave wool is also extremely breathable (but extremely expensive as well).


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Trench coat from Tweedy Don.

I fell in love with it as soon as I saw it. I love the lack of of bells and whistles and the emphasis on the drape and silhouette overall. No epaulettes, no buttons that show. Just belted goodness. It's the most loose coat I own and also the most comfortable.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

Very nice drape to that coat.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

RogerP said:


> Very nice drape to that coat.


Thanks Rog!


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

The Rake came thru.

This is one solid tweed jacket. Full Norfolk with front pleats back center pleat and vent, full belt, large bellows pockets, poacher pocket and leather buttons with flap pocket closures.

It's going off to the tailor for the sleeves. I think that unlike a normal sports coat, there should be no shirt sleeve showing as this is supposed to be a working utilitarian jacket.

Since I don't hunt it will be interesting to see how I utilize this handsome garment.










The navy coat came also. The material has a good nap and feels like a higher percent of wool than it actually is. It's quite a heavy thick material and fits well with good length. I love the back arrow pleat And half belt so it's a keeper.

Will post after tailor shortens the sleeves which are down to my knuckles


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## nb8790 (Apr 18, 2017)

momsdoc said:


> The Rake came thru.
> 
> This is one solid tweed jacket. Full Norfolk with front pleats back center pleat and vent, full belt, large bellows pockets, poacher pocket and leather buttons with flap pocket closures.
> 
> ...


Glad you like the new coat. I do like tweed and field coats, but I prefer a looser/more classic fit. Close-cut coats like that bring to mind military uniforms. I'd be interested to see the navy coat.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

I absolutely LOVE that Norfolk jacket - congrats Momsdoc! 

Glad to hear that the navy overcoat worked out as well. Apart from the sleeves, how is the fit? Room for a jacket underneath when you take your normal suit size?


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

I gained 7 lbs and an inch of waist over the holidays. The navy coat fits in my regular 40 over my sports coats. But my sports coats will not support a bulky sweater right now. By February I should be back to normal and then the navy coat will have enough extra room to be perfect.


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## never behind (Jul 5, 2016)

momsdoc said:


> The Rake came thru.
> 
> This is one solid tweed jacket. Full Norfolk with front pleats back center pleat and vent, full belt, large bellows pockets, poacher pocket and leather buttons with flap pocket closures.
> 
> ...


Now that is an impressive coat.


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## never behind (Jul 5, 2016)

Snapped a quick pick at work before heading out to lunch. It was in the 50s today and raining, so I donned the Barbour. It hasn't been cold enough to wear anything else lately.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

^^^ Very nice! Beaufort? I've barely worn anything particularly warm in a coat so far this winter. My cotton Bedale and Grenfell have served quite well when adequately layered.


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## never behind (Jul 5, 2016)

RogerP said:


> ^^^ Very nice! Beaufort? I've barely worn anything particularly warm in a coat so far this winter. My cotton Bedale and Grenfell have served quite well when adequately layered.


Thank you, Roger. It's a Bedale.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

Looks like @momsdoc and I are officially coat brothers. Doppiaa double-breasted navy coat just arrived from The Rake.


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## ran23 (Dec 11, 2014)

Took my WWII Navy Pea Coat for a walk today, 38F outside.


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

So Roger, what do you think? Did you go up a size or stay with your regular size? even though it’s more poly than wool, I have found it very well insulating.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

momsdoc said:


> So Roger, what do you think? Did you go up a size or stay with your regular size? even though it's more poly than wool, I have found it very well insulating.


Very positive first impressions, but I've done no more that slip it on for fit. I went with my usual jacket size and that seems to have been the right call. I might give it an initial outing tomorrow though it is going to be fairly mild - around the freezing mark.


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## never behind (Jul 5, 2016)

Finally turned cold enough for me to wear the pea coat I got off eBay. It's a USN version from 1975 and it is warm.


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## irish95 (Sep 27, 2011)

I checked out the Rake website. I’m surprised you guys didn’t grab the grey houndstooth double breasted coat. If I didn’t have 3 overcoats that would be mine. Great looking coat.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

irish95 said:


> I checked out the Rake website. I'm surprised you guys didn't grab the grey houndstooth double breasted coat. If I didn't have 3 overcoats that would be mine. Great looking coat.


There are easily half a dozen different coats I could grab with a bottomless wallet and an endless closet.  Are you you talking about the one with the detachable hood? On my wishlist.


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## irish95 (Sep 27, 2011)

RogerP said:


> There are easily half a dozen different coats I could grab with a bottomless wallet and an endless closet.  Are you you talking about the one with the detachable hood? On my wishlist.


Yes, not a big fan of the hood, but coat is great looking. You are right though, a lot of great choices.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

irish95 said:


> Yes, not a big fan of the hood, but coat is great looking. You are right though, a lot of great choices.


And the hood is detachable.


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## irish95 (Sep 27, 2011)

Somehow how I knew that would be your response. I knew that, but you are such an enabler! LOL


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

This coat fills me with so much want. But I'd take that beautiful Great Dane first if I could only have one. New and Lingwood, wool / cashmere blend.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

irish95 said:


> Somehow how I knew that would be your response. I knew that, but you are such an enabler! LOL


Pfft - I had not yet even begun enabling - that's what happens now. 

The main reason this coat appeals - beyond the stunning fabric and wonderful cut - is the presence of the hood. It allow you to dress it down with the hood attached and wear it with a tweed flat cap over a sports coat, or remove the hood and wear it with a fedora over suit for a more formal look. Win / win.


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## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

RogerP said:


> This coat fills me with so much want. But I'd take that beautiful Great Dane first if I could only have one. New and Lingwood, wool / cashmere blend.


Agreed, gorgeous coat and even more gorgeous Great Dane (and an incredibly docile breed for such a big dog).


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

Fading Fast said:


> Agreed, gorgeous coat and even more gorgeous Great Dane (and an incredibly docile breed for such a big dog).


They are disproportionately popular in my neighborhood for some reason - and I couldn't be happier about it. First plan, day one of retirement: get a dog. I'll figure the rest out as I go. The only downside of a Dane: their average lifespan is heartrendingly short.


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## EclecticSr. (Sep 21, 2014)

The only downside of a Dane: their average lifespan is heartrendingly short. 

As is true with many of the large breeds and many of the small breeds as well.


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## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

RogerP said:


> They are disproportionately popular in my neighborhood for some reason - and I couldn't be happier about it. First plan, day one of retirement: get a dog. I'll figure the rest out as I go. The only downside of a Dane: their average lifespan is heartrendingly short.





EclecticSr. said:


> The only downside of a Dane: their average lifespan is heartrendingly short.
> 
> As is true with many of the large breeds and many of the small breeds as well.


It is, even with the longer life-span breeds, part of the dog ownership experience.

It's heartbreaking, but we try to think of it as we've given them (what we hope has been) a wonderful life - and they've enhanced ours immeasurably - so it all should be celebrated.

That said, we are always very sad when one passes - it's impossible not to be.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

The new Doppiaa coat.


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

sweet. Roger, may I ask how tall you are? That coat comes to the bottom of my knees.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

momsdoc said:


> sweet. Roger, may I ask how tall you are? That coat comes to the bottom of my knees.


5' 10", size 44


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## winghus (Dec 18, 2014)

Late to the party but momsdoc this fit your previous criteria does it not?
https://therake.com/udeshi-navy-alpaca-wool-double-breasted-mid-length-coat.html?uk_size=894


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## EclecticSr. (Sep 21, 2014)

Fading Fast said:


> It is, even with the longer life-span breeds, part of the dog ownership experience.
> 
> It's heartbreaking, but we try to think of it as we've given them (what we hope has been) a wonderful life - and they've enhanced ours immeasurably - so it all should be celebrated.
> 
> That said, we are always very sad when one passes - it's impossible not to be.


Quite true, been there several times. Our newest addition is bringing great joy.


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

winghus said:


> Late to the party but momsdoc this fit your previous criteria does it not?
> https://therake.com/udeshi-navy-alpaca-wool-double-breasted-mid-length-coat.html?uk_size=894


Very nice. I didn't see that one when shopping. The lack of a back half belt is a serious detractor as is the yolk rain flap. However the material is a definite plus. All in all the styling of the Doppiaa wins out.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

I love the lapels on this great coat by New & Lingwood


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## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

RogerP said:


> I love the lapels on this great coat by New & Lingwood


That's a confident coat. And, coincidentally, isn't @upr_crust on his way, right now, to New and Lingwood's home country for vacation? (It's been his purchases on prior trips abroad, after all, that introduced me to the brand.) Perhaps he'll return with just this coat.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

RogerP said:


> I love the lapels on this great coat by New & Lingwood


That is indeed an eye catching and very handsome coat, but I wonder if at some point in it's past, it was the production result of a well and tightly written statement of military production specifications. It looks like a more elegant and army green version of my old USAF Horse Blanket I was issued back in the mid 1960's. Did New and Lingwood bid on England's military contracts? :icon_scratch:


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

^^^ It is certainly military-inspired, though I don't know if it based on a specific historical garment from New & Lingwood or otherwise.

Here is the blurb from The Rake:

_New&Lingwood's Althorp greatcoat is very clearly military-inspired, with its thick khaki melton cut straight and ready to face the elements. The double-breasted design includes a revere collar, deep flap pockets and turned-back, buttoned cuffs. There are an inverted pleat and a half-belt at the back. It is generously cut to accommodate thick layers beneath. It falls below the knee. _

And from New & Lingwood:

_Our take on a classic military greatcoat, this army green double-breasted overcoat features a revere collar, deep flap pockets, turn-back cuffs and a half-belt at the back. It's cut from thick and warming wool melton, woven in England. _

I'd love to see a pic of that USAF Horse Blanket


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

Fading Fast said:


> *That's a confident coat. *And, coincidentally, isn't @upr_crust on his way, right now, to New and Lingwood's home country for vacation? (It's been his purchases on prior trips abroad, after all, that introduced me to the brand.) Perhaps he'll return with just this coat.


This was my first impression as well - it will certainly stand out from the contemporary sea of sameness based on colour, cut and dimensions. It would be fabulous to get some first hand impressions from crusty (and the coat is presently on discounted sale at New & Lingwood  )


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## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

RogerP said:


> This was my first impression as well - it will certainly stand out from the contemporary sea of sameness based on colour, cut and dimensions. It would be fabulous to get some first hand impressions from crusty (and the coat is presently on discounted sale at New & Lingwood  )


I think we'll have to fire up the @upr_crust Bat Signal (usually used for @Matt S to educate us about a suit detail) in hopes he'll save Gotham by bringing us first hand information about the coat:


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## EclecticSr. (Sep 21, 2014)

RogerP said:


> I love the lapels on this great coat by New & Lingwood


Crombie as well usually offer in several choices.


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## EclecticSr. (Sep 21, 2014)

View More
*Conrad CoatNavy Wool*
In stock
£475.00

I have this coat from Walker Slater, weighs a ton, I couldn't pass it up about 6-8 years ago at that price, less VAT of course.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

EclecticSr. said:


> View More
> *Conrad CoatNavy Wool*
> In stock
> £475.00
> ...


That navy looks terrific. Looks to be a very full cut.


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## EclecticSr. (Sep 21, 2014)

RogerP said:


> That navy looks terrific. Looks to be a very full cut.


It is and quite long. Though they recommend sizing down if you want a trimmer look.


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

You learn something new every day. I’ve always been intrigued by the collar of English Greatcoats. Now I have a name for them Revere Collar. Hmm, any relationship to Paul?


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

RogerP said:


> I love the lapels on this great coat by New & Lingwood


Perfect collar/lapel.

I always find the proportions/shape/gorge off on big lapels, but this is great. The top part of the collar is often equally as big, completely throwing off the entire shape of the garment. Or it's just too big period.

Simon's bespoke long overcoat falls under this IMO


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## Woofa (Dec 23, 2014)

Wanted to share my new thrifted coat. Pretty thrilled for less than $20.

Lookie what was in one of the pockets.








Thank goodness for people who don't throw anything away. 51 years those have been sitting in the pocket. Like the receipt, the jacket is in extremely good condition. Just a beautiful piece and the color is amazing. My pictures don't do it justice. 
68 is the year before I was born and I am pretty sure $350 was quite a bit of money back then. And how about that low sales tax...
I could not be happier.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

delicious_scent said:


> Perfect collar/lapel.
> 
> I always find the proportions/shape/gorge off on big lapels, but this is great. The top part of the collar is often equally as big, completely throwing off the entire shape of the garment. Or it's just too big period.
> 
> Simon's bespoke long overcoat falls under this IMO


I do love the roped shoulders and the mid-shin length, though.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

My Barbour doing its damn-the-weather Barbour thing. As for the jeans - I had just finished shoveling the driveway when my daughter asked if we could go for a walk by the lake. My response "While it's snowing sideways? You're so awesome."


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

RogerP said:


> I do love the roped shoulders and the mid-shin length, though.


Oh I agree, I love everything else about the coat. Very dramatic and structured, and I also love the slanted pockets and the narrow sweep.

The precise cut of the lapels to allow it to fully button with no pulling or change in silhouette is an amazing level of detail. I only just realized that's probably why the lapels are gigantic.


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

That’s some coat!!!!


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

RogerP said:


> My Barbour doing its damn-the-weather Barbour thing. As for the jeans - I had just finished shoveling the driveway when my daughter asked if we could go for a walk by the lake. My response "While it's snowing sideways? You're so awesome."


Great pic getting the sideways snow in focus. Love the shoveling the driveway boots. Reflects my today fillling of the wood ring in my Utah Galways .


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## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

RogerP said:


> My Barbour doing its damn-the-weather Barbour thing. As for the jeans - I had just finished shoveling the driveway when my daughter asked if we could go for a walk by the lake. My response "While it's snowing sideways? You're so awesome."


Great outfit, great pic and, apparently, great daughter: Anyone who understands the wonderfulness of a walk by the lake in a sideways snowstorm is going places in this world.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

Fading Fast said:


> Great outfit, great pic and, apparently, great daughter: Anyone who understands the wonderfulness of a walk by the lake in a sideways snowstorm is going places in this world.


Thanks my friend.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

Tangentially coat-related, this just arrived to accompany my navy overcoat. Lock & Co. courtesy of Michael Jondral:

It looks even better in the felt than the product pic suggests. My first thought on opening the box was "This is an @upr_crust -worthy chapeau."


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## EclecticSr. (Sep 21, 2014)

^^^^^^ Indeed a handsome hat, very similar in style to Stetson's pre blocked Stratoliner except for the band. I have 1 pre blocked stetson but the rest I purchased open crown as I like to do my own bashing. I have a few vintage as well also purchased open crown. My preference is for simple center crease soft pinch or no pinch and taller crown. Wear it well.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

EclecticSr. said:


> ^^^^^^ Indeed a handsome hat, very similar in style to Stetson's pre blocked Stratoliner except for the band. I have 1 pre blocked stetson but the rest I purchased open crown as I like to do my own bashing. I have a few vintage as well also purchased open crown. My preference is for simple center crease soft pinch or no pinch and taller crown. Wear it well.


Around the time I realized my coat game needed improving, I came to the same conclusion about my hats. This is very bad news for my wallet.


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## EclecticSr. (Sep 21, 2014)

RogerP said:


> Around the time I realized my coat game needed improving, I came to the same conclusion about my hats. This is very bad news for my wallet.


It's been bad news for my wallet for more than half of my lifetime as my wife likes to point out. 
You'll get over it in knowing the satisfaction and pleasure they offer just having them. The frosting on the cake is when you don such articles and get complimented on them and if my wife is present, I get the tug at my arm and get admonished with, don't let that go to your head and run out and buy another 
(insert your choice) one of those, but of course I usually do only to suffer the moans and groans.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

EclecticSr. said:


> It's been bad news for my wallet for more than half of my lifetime as my wife likes to point out.
> You'll get over it in knowing the satisfaction and pleasure they offer just having them. The frosting on the cake is when you don such articles and get complimented on them and if my wife is present, I get the tug at my arm and get admonished with, don't let that go to your head and run out and buy another
> (insert your choice) one of those, but of course I usually do only to suffer the moans and groans.


My hats have always been the most-complimented items of my wardrobe. Probably because so few men bother to wear then anymore.


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## EclecticSr. (Sep 21, 2014)

RogerP said:


> My hats have always been the most-complimented items of my wardrobe. Probably because so few men bother to wear then anymore.


Twice as rewarding when such compliments are offered by women which makes my wife chuckle when she's present, but still, I get the same admonishment from her. 
Iv'e heard all the arguments against wearing hats( fedoras) today, and still conclude, a gentleman, underline gentleman, in the 1940's -through the 60's wearing a fedora would still be recognized as a gentleman today.

I do not wish to be accepted by the backward baseball hat wearing crowd, as I then would look the clown, cartoonish as they often describe us. Sort of ironic isn't it.


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## never behind (Jul 5, 2016)

A little colder today so I opted for my duffel coat. I think this is my favorite coat; the lack of structure, the unique look. It is just a nice, warm, comfortable garment.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

Well this is a first for me: buying the same coat twice.  Well, the same brand and style, but different colour.

When I purchased my green Grenfell shooter jacket (posted at the beginning of this thread) my first choice had actually been the tan cotton twill version with corduroy trim. At the time it was sold out in my size.

Since then I've been surprised at the amount of wear I've been getting out of the green shooter. Though the winter has been unusually mild, when properly layered underneath the coat serves very well at lower temperatures than I had expected.

So when the tan version not only returned to stock in my size but on sale as well, I did not hesitate.


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## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

never behind said:


> A little colder today so I opted for my duffel coat. I think this is my favorite coat; the lack of structure, the unique look. It is just a nice, warm, comfortable garment.
> 
> View attachment 39238


That is a really nice looking one. I did a bunch of homework on them recently as my girlfriend wanted one for Christmas and I landed on a Gloverall. Do you mind saying which brand yours is?


----------



## icky thump (Feb 2, 2008)

nb8790 said:


> Well-made poplin suits are hard to find, and usually too expensive to be worth it, but they are light and breathable. Not as much as linen, but they wrinkle less. O'Connell's has quite a few in traditional configurations, and Haspel is another source. Fresco / open-weave wool is also extremely breathable (but extremely expensive as well).


Half-lined is the move.


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## never behind (Jul 5, 2016)

Fading Fast said:


> That is a really nice looking one. I did a bunch of homework on them recently as my girlfriend wanted one for Christmas and I landed on a Gloverall. Do you mind saying which brand yours is?


It's a Gloverall I found on eBay. I am not sure how old it is, but it's in excellent shape.


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## Eligius (Jan 1, 2019)

New post holiday sale acquisition from Magee.


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## never behind (Jul 5, 2016)

Eligius said:


> New post holiday sale acquisition from Magee.
> View attachment 39988
> View attachment 39989


Nice! I have a herringbone Magee overcoat myself and love it. I hope you enjoy yours as well!


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

That's some tweedy goodness right there.


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## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

Eligius said:


> New post holiday sale acquisition from Magee.
> View attachment 39988
> View attachment 39989


Wonderful coat, enjoy. I've been emailing with Magee about size on, I think, your exact coat. Hard to tell (probably my screen's fault), but is the color black and white, black and cream, black and tan? Or, better yet, how would you describe the color? Thank you, FF


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## never behind (Jul 5, 2016)

It's freezing today so I'll contribute to the Magee fun.


----------



## Eligius (Jan 1, 2019)

Fading Fast said:


> Wonderful coat, enjoy. I've been emailing with Magee about size on, I think, your exact coat. Hard to tell (probably my screen's fault), but is the color black and white, black and cream, black and tan? Or, better yet, how would you describe the color? Thank you, FF


The dark bones are black/charcoal. The lighter bones are a medium brown so would call them in the tan range (much darker than cream/white). The intermittent "flecks" are all in the lighter bones and are quite variable but most frequent is cream and also some lighter to darker orangeish hues (with the darker ones almost a chestnut). They give a good Donegal look. I think the pictures I posted are too dark (first) and too bright (second, which makes it seem a lighter shade), but I can try to send you some more neutral light close up photos if that would be helpful.

Overall, I really love the fabric, and the fit and warmth factors are great. I am very happy with it. The buttons are a generic plastic, and the lining is polyester, but both are functional.


----------



## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Eligius said:


> New post holiday sale acquisition from Magee.
> View attachment 39988
> View attachment 39989


I love it! This is basically a balmacaan right?

Not sure where you bought it, but I think I saw it at O'Connell's and they said they can attach a belt as well.


never behind said:


> It's freezing today so I'll contribute to the Magee fun.
> View attachment 40002


I dig this style of coat, what is it called?


----------



## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

Eligius said:


> The dark bones are black/charcoal. The lighter bones are a medium brown so would call them in the tan range (much darker than cream/white). The intermittent "flecks" are all in the lighter bones and are quite variable but most frequent is cream and also some lighter to darker orangeish hues (with the darker ones almost a chestnut). They give a good Donegal look. I think the pictures I posted are too dark (first) and too bright (second, which makes it seem a lighter shade), but I can try to send you some more neutral light close up photos if that would be helpful.
> 
> Overall, I really love the fabric, and the fit and warmth factors are great. I am very happy with it. The buttons are a generic plastic, and the lining is polyester, but both are functional.


Thank you so much - all very helpful. If you can PM me some pics, that would be great, but I know we are all busy and your description here helped a lot so don't worry if you can't.


----------



## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

Eligius said:


> The dark bones are black/charcoal. The lighter bones are a medium brown so would call them in the tan range (much darker than cream/white). The intermittent "flecks" are all in the lighter bones and are quite variable but most frequent is cream and also some lighter to darker orangeish hues (with the darker ones almost a chestnut). They give a good Donegal look. I think the pictures I posted are too dark (first) and too bright (second, which makes it seem a lighter shade), but I can try to send you some more neutral light close up photos if that would be helpful.
> 
> Overall, I really love the fabric, and the fit and warmth factors are great. I am very happy with it. The buttons are a generic plastic, and the lining is polyester, but both are functional.


Hi again, just to check, is this the exact coat you bought:

https://www.magee1866.com/en/Black-...Tweed-Corrib-Quilted-Raglan-Coat/m-12386.aspx


----------



## never behind (Jul 5, 2016)

delicious_scent said:


> I dig this style of coat, what is it called?


I believe it is a Chesterfield, or at least that's what O'Connell's calls it (that's were I bought it).

https://oconnellsclothing.com/outer...d-charcoal-herringbone-08780-magee-tweed.html


----------



## Eligius (Jan 1, 2019)

delicious_scent said:


> I love it! This is basically a balmacaan right?
> 
> Not sure where you bought it, but I think I saw it at O'Connell's and they said they can attach a belt as well.


Yes, it is a balmacaan. I really like it. It fits over a jacket with no effort. I bought it directly from Magee - magee1866.com


----------



## Eligius (Jan 1, 2019)

Fading Fast said:


> Hi again, just to check, is this the exact coat you bought:
> 
> https://www.magee1866.com/en/Black-...Tweed-Corrib-Quilted-Raglan-Coat/m-12386.aspx


It's this one:

I will work on getting some better pics to you.


----------



## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

Eligius said:


> It's this one:
> 
> I will work on getting some better pics to you.


Hi again and thank you for all the help. I'm focused on buying the Black and Pale Camel one, so I don't need additional pics of your Brown one, but again, greatly appreciate that you were going to post additional pics.


----------



## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

never behind said:


> It's freezing today so I'll contribute to the Magee fun.
> View attachment 40002


Indeed, the temperatur on the front porch earlier this AM, was a crisp 59 degrees. My G9 felt comforting during the time I sat out there. It is presently 63 degrees, with a high target of 72 degrees.


----------



## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

Yesterday was -20C on the train platform in the morning. I don't really have a coat for that.  Problem is that that those days are so far and few between here that it's hard for me to justify the purchase. This winter it has rarely been winter-cold.


----------



## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

Fading Fast said:


> Hi again and thank you for all the help. I'm focused on buying the Black and Pale Camel one, so I don't need additional pics of your Brown one, but again, greatly appreciate that you were going to post additional pics.


I shall look forward to pics of yours!


----------



## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

RogerP said:


> Yesterday was -20C on the train platform in the morning. I don't really have a coat for that.  Problem is that that those days are so far and few between here that it's hard for me to justify the purchase. This winter it has rarely been winter-cold.


Is there a coat for that? 



RogerP said:


> I shall look forward to pics of yours!


Haven't pulled the trigger yet, but getting close. I really, truly don't need another overcoat, but this one checks just about every box of "the overcoat" I've always wanted. So my girlfriend and I are going to double check measurements (scattered in a long email string I've had with Magee - I'm sure, at this point, they either want me to buy the coat or stop emailing) today and make a "buy / no buy" decision.

If I buy, pics will definitely follow its arrival.


----------



## ItalianStyle (Mar 13, 2017)

Fading Fast said:


> Is there a coat for that?


A peacoat! 👍 (the real thing, not the fashion version...)


----------



## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

A goose down parka would be the thing. Those portable igloos are very toasty and nothing beats a deep fur-trimmed hood when biting wind joins bitter cold. 

But they are just too damned warm for me for most days.


----------



## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

RogerP said:


> A goose down parka would be the thing. Those portable igloos are very toasty and nothing beats a deep fur-trimmed hood when biting wind joins bitter cold.
> 
> But they are just too damned warm for me for most days.


The USAF issued ma an Arctic parka, matching trousers, and inflatable Bunny Boots that could easily keep one warm in -20 degree temperatures, but alas, they made me give them back when the Northern Tier assignment was over.  LOL.


----------



## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Fading Fast said:


> Is there a coat for that?
> 
> Haven't pulled the trigger yet, but getting close. I really, truly don't need another overcoat, but this one checks just about every box of "the overcoat" I've always wanted. So my girlfriend and I are going to double check measurements (scattered in a long email string I've had with Magee - I'm sure, at this point, they either want me to buy the coat or stop emailing) today and make a "buy / no buy" decision.
> 
> If I buy, pics will definitely follow its arrival.


Yep. It depends on how warm you run and how much you layer, how the coat is cut, how long you plan on being outside etc.

https://www.moons.co.uk/product-tag/shop-coating/


----------



## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

Sporting the (second) new Grenfell shooter coat. This one in a heavy dry waxed cotton gabardine with corduroy trim and chunky woven leather buttons. A nice surprise was discovering the corduroy-lined outer flap pockets.


----------



## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

I've been wanting to add a traditional windbreaker to the rotation for spring / summer / fall - something along the lines of a Harrington or similar.

I came across this Grenfell reduced by 50% and decided it would serve quite nicely. Okay, by "came across" I actually mean that I religiously checked The Rake web site as both supply and price dropped over time. When it hit half off and the last model in stock was in my size - well - I think we can all agree that this was a clear sign from a power far greater than myself.  

I have had little opportunity to wear it, for obvious reasons. But since I had to go into the office early this morning to collect some file materials, it got its first outing.



Random web pics:


----------



## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

RogerP said:


> I've been wanting to add a traditional windbreaker to the rotation for spring / summer / fall - something along the lines of a Harrington or similar.
> 
> I came across this Grenfell reduced by 50% and decided it would serve quite nicely. Okay, by "came across" I actually mean that I religiously checked The Rake web site as both supply and price dropped over time. When it hit half off and the last model in stock was in my size - well - I think we can all agree that this was a clear sign from a power far greater than myself.
> 
> ...


That is quite a good looking jacket, but the Ivy cap is even more impressive! BTW, my friend, you wear that jacket much better than those professional models. Should you ever consider a second career, modeling clothes just might be it.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

eagle2250 said:


> That is quite a good looking jacket, but the Ivy cap is even more impressive! BTW, my friend, you wear that jacket much better than those professional models. Should you ever consider a second career, modeling clothes just might be it.


Thank you very kindly my friend.


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## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

eagle2250 said:


> That is quite a good looking jacket, but the Ivy cap is even more impressive! BTW, my friend, you wear that jacket much better than those professional models. Should you ever consider a second career, modeling clothes just might be it.


I believe I have made note in the past of Roger P looking more like a model than the models - a second career beckons.

Also, this cracked me up:


RogerP said:


> ...I came across this Grenfell reduced by 50% and decided it would serve quite nicely. Okay, by "came across" I actually mean that I religiously checked The Rake web site as both supply and price dropped over time. When it hit half off and the last model in stock was in my size - well - I think we can all agree that this was a clear sign from a power far greater than myself.
> ...


I completely understand what you did as I am currently stalking the company Guideboat to see if a pair of winter wool gray trousers go on super sale (Guideboat does some crazy markdowns late in its sales). The internet does make cyberstalking retail sites very easy.


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## The Irishman (Oct 21, 2013)

Some months ago, when retail closures were occurring in London, Crombie closed their Conduit Street store. I was somewhat surprised when they also closed their online retail. When someone queried on one of their social media accounts when they would be doing business again, there was a somewhat terse response that they "didn't have a cystal ball."

I wonder if they'll rise like a Phoenix as winter approaches... Winter coats are on the hangers now elsewhere.
_
"In light of current world events, we have now fully suspended our retail, wholesale and supporting administrative operations until further notice. We will continue to monitor the global situation and hope to resume operations in the fullness of time. We'd like to thank our many clients for their custom and patronage and wish everyone a safe and healthy summer."_


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## challer (Sep 4, 2008)

RogerP said:


> Sporting the (second) new Grenfell shooter coat. This one in a heavy dry waxed cotton gabardine with corduroy trim and chunky woven leather buttons. A nice surprise was discovering the corduroy-lined outer flap pockets.


I'm looking for another good shooting jacket. I note this one does not have an action back. Have you found it restraining while using a shotgun?


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## EclecticSr. (Sep 21, 2014)

The Irishman said:


> Some months ago, when retail closures were occurring in London, Crombie closed their Conduit Street store. I was somewhat surprised when they also closed their online retail. When someone queried on one of their social media accounts when they would be doing business again, there was a somewhat terse response that they "didn't have a cystal ball."
> 
> I wonder if they'll rise like a Phoenix as winter approaches... Winter coats are on the hangers now elsewhere.
> 
> _"In light of current world events, we have now fully suspended our retail, wholesale and supporting administrative operations until further notice. We will continue to monitor the global situation and hope to resume operations in the fullness of time. We'd like to thank our many clients for their custom and patronage and wish everyone a safe and healthy summer."_


Makes me glad that I bought all my Crombie coats and suits when I did. While I have very little need for more clothing, I wish them well.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

challer said:


> I'm looking for another good shooting jacket. I note this one does not have an action back. Have you found it restraining while using a shotgun?


I haven't been shooting in it, so I can't comment on that particular aspect of freedom of motion.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Crosspost from tweed thread.

How do you all feel about lining the upper back of a tweed overcoat with melton wool?

In my head it sounded like a good idea for windproofing, so now I already have the fabric.

Some people at TOF said it will make it harder to pull the coat on and off, stick to whatever I'm wearing underneath, and may affect the drape.

At worst I guess I now have a wool blanket.

Maybe I could ask my tailor to make it removable?


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

Winter is coming. I haven't owned a parka since I was a kid, but there are a few days each winter that I wish I did. I need wish no longer. Grenfell Labrador Coat has landed. Coat and pics courtesy of The Rake.


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## never behind (Jul 5, 2016)

Came across this trench coat on eBay. I don’t own a trench and not sure I’d want to pay $300 for a used one. But I like the style.


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## CLTesquire (Jul 23, 2010)

RogerP said:


> Winter is coming. I haven't owned a parka since I was a kid, but there are a few days each winter that I wish I did. I need wish no longer. Grenfell Labrador Coat has landed. Coat and pics courtesy of The Rake.


That is a heck of a coat. I hope you have a frigid winter with many opportunities to wear it.

Related question for you...if it were cold enough to wear a coat like that, what shoes/boots are you using? I'm genuinely curious as it would never be that cold down here.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

CLTesquire said:


> That is a heck of a coat. I hope you have a frigid winter with many opportunities to wear it.
> 
> Related question for you...if it were cold enough to wear a coat like that, what shoes/boots are you using? I'm genuinely curious as it would never be that cold down here.


Any of my field / derby boots. I have naturally warm feet so I don't own any lined boots as they quickly become too warm to wear when I transition indoors. There is a pair of shearling lined Carlos Santos boots that is tempting me, though.

The winter days that have me wishing for a parka aren't necessarily those where the temperature is at its absolute lowest - but where the wind is at is highest - particularly when combined with snow and ice pellets. NOTHING beats a deep fur-trimmed hood on days like that - particularly when I am immobile and exposed on a wind-swept train platform.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

never behind said:


> Came across this trench coat on eBay. I don't own a trench and not sure I'd want to pay $300 for a used one. But I like the style.


Love the length of this coat.


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## never behind (Jul 5, 2016)

RogerP said:


> Love the length of this coat.


The length was 50".


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## CLTesquire (Jul 23, 2010)

RogerP said:


> Any of my field / derby boots. I have naturally warm feet so I don't own any lined boots as they quickly become too warm to wear when I transition indoors. There is a pair of shearling lined Carlos Santos boots that is tempting me, though.
> 
> The winter days that have me wishing for a parka aren't necessarily those where the temperature is at its absolute lowest - but where the wind is at is highest - particularly when combined with snow and ice pellets. NOTHING beats a deep fur-trimmed hood on days like that - particularly when I am immobile and exposed on a wind-swept train platform.


Out of continued curiosity, do you not have a deep rooted Canadian yearning for a Canada Goose parka? I figured they are basically standard issue up there. 

For the past couple years I've considered a pair of shearling lined boots. I don't know when I would wear them but, nevertheless, the heart wants what the heart wants I suppose.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

CLTesquire said:


> Out of continued curiosity, do you not have a deep rooted Canadian yearning for a Canada Goose parka? I figured they are basically standard issue up there.
> 
> For the past couple years I've considered a pair of shearling lined boots. I don't know when I would wear them but, nevertheless, the heart wants what the heart wants I suppose.


If I lived in Ottawa or Montreal I'd look into Canada Goose - because that is what you _really_ need when the temperature plummets. But Toronto / Oakville are just that much further south that the winters are noticeably milder.


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## Eligius (Jan 1, 2019)

It's not necessarily a coat, but I recently got this Harrington jacket that is made from 16oz whipcord from Bookster. It's heavy enough to carry me through the fall here.


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

^^^ Wow, that is really nice!


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## Eligius (Jan 1, 2019)

Breaking in new acquisition, tweed car coat from Dubarry.


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## David J. Cooper (Apr 26, 2010)

Brilliant looking coat Eligius. I would expect it to be of the finest quality too. I have never owned a Dubarry item myself.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## AlphaOmega (May 1, 2017)

Eligius said:


> Breaking in new acquisition, tweed car coat from Dubarry.
> 
> View attachment 52974
> View attachment 52975


Are those buttons shanked?


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## Eligius (Jan 1, 2019)

AlphaOmega said:


> Are those buttons shanked?


I had to look this up, but from what I have seen, they appear to have a thread shank.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## jc1305us (Jan 13, 2009)

My BB pea coat, over 20 years old, and still fantastic. Warm, stylish, ut never goes out of style. Quilted lining too. Made in USA, paid about $250 for it in 1997-98. Worth every penny!


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

jc1305us said:


> My BB pea coat, over 20 years old, and still fantastic. Warm, stylish, ut never goes out of style. Quilted lining too. Made in USA, paid about $250 for it in 1997-98. Worth every penny!
> View attachment 53224


A great looking coat and as you indicated, in my wardrobe, the older and more worn a garment or pair of shoe/boots become, the greater their value in my eyes! Just thinking.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Tweedlover (Jan 30, 2021)

eagle2250 said:


> A great looking coat and as you indicated, in my wardrobe, the older and more worn a garment or pair of shoe/boots become, the greater their value in my eyes! Just thinking.


My peacoat, which I love, is old as it is a 1970 USN peacoat formerly owned by my brother-in law who was briefly in the navy.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

I'm going to have my bottom-of-the-calf Balmacaan shortened. It sure looks cool, but is wildly impractical. Should hit higher up on the calf when I get it back.

Forget sitting down or kneeling slightly if you don't want to attract crud from the ground.

Going to use that chopped fabric to add a throat latch.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 54486


The suit appears to be fine, the gloves appear to be 'must haves,' but that red, or possibly red/orange coat has got to go! What he needs is a nice Camelhair coat. Charcoal would also prove a very workable option.


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## Vecchio Vespa (Dec 3, 2011)

Tweedlover said:


> My peacoat, which I love, is old as it is a 1970 USN peacoat formerly owned by my brother-in law who was briefly in the navy.


The one the USN gave me in 1967 was nice, but the reefer coat my father got at USNA in 1938 outlasted it.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

eagle2250 said:


> The suit appears to be fine, the gloves appear to be 'must haves,' but that red, or possibly red/orange coat has got to go! What he needs is a nice Camelhair coat. Charcoal would also prove a very workable option.


That orange DB overcoat is Italian with a provanance going clear back to the Renaissance. Over a very dark suit, I think it goes swimmingly.


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## StephenRG (Apr 7, 2005)

Oldsarge said:


> That orange DB overcoat is Italian with a provanance going clear back to the Renaissance. Over a very dark suit, I think it goes swimmingly.


But it doesn't have the wolfskin collar.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

StephenRG said:


> But it doesn't have the wolfskin collar.


An unfortunate recent development, IMO.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

In other news, a man buys new coats instead of a new phone with a better camera. Here's to better days and actually being able to go out and wear these.

I shortened the length on the tweed coat, and the sleeves, and added a throat latch.









This one is a corduroy coat with printed patchwork.


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## Nnnnick78 (Feb 11, 2016)

Let me add my coat made by López Aragón from Marling & Evans undyed British wool 720gms. The fabric color is closer to real life on the last photo.


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

^^^

Very interesting balmacaan, cut closer than most. Yours flatters more. Unusual collar. It buttons on the female side though, that's bothersome.


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## Nnnnick78 (Feb 11, 2016)

Peak and Pine said:


> ^^^
> 
> Very interesting balmacaan, cut closer than most. Yours flatters more. Unusual collar. It buttons on the female side though, that's bothersome.


It is the mirror shot. So the buttons are on the male side


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Nnnnick78 said:


> View attachment 55977
> View attachment 55978
> View attachment 55979
> 
> ...


Oh wow, I love this!

I was often told that slim balmacaans look bad, but this completely nullifies that argument. Duly noting this for the future.

How is the range of motion?

I think that fabric is from the same range as the prince of wales check coat I posted up there. How do you find the fabric?

I found it to be surprisingly soft for a tweed, and it feels pretty hefty.


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

Nnnnick78 said:


> It is the mirror shot. So the buttons are on the male side


Oops.


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## Nnnnick78 (Feb 11, 2016)

delicious_scent said:


> Oh wow, I love this!
> 
> I was often told that slim balmacaans look bad, but this completely nullifies that argument. Duly noting this for the future.
> 
> ...


I wouldn't say it is slim especially in the top part. Maybe I'd like to have more room at the bottom so when I walk the quarters don't open to much. The range of motions is great even with thick tweed sport coat on.

Yes. The fabric is from the same M&E range and pretty soft and very hefty. Today was around zero Celsius outside and I wore only thin cashmere turtleneck and the coat. It was really warm. The herringbone pattern looks bigger in real life than on photos.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Talk about layering!


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## Tweedlover (Jan 30, 2021)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 57845
> 
> 
> Talk about layering!


No wonder his coat is open. Never quite understood folks who throw on a coat and leave it open. If it's actually cold enough for a coat, it's too cold to leave it open. If it's not that cold, skip the coat.


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## StephenRG (Apr 7, 2005)

Tweedlover said:


> No wonder his coat is open. Never quite understood folks who throw on a coat and leave it open. If it's actually cold enough for a coat, it's too cold to leave it open. If it's not that cold, skip the coat.


If you have more insulation (fat) on your front than on your back, it's quite logical.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## ran23 (Dec 11, 2014)

Driving down into CA, not sure if it will be cool enough for my grey herringbone, hope so.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## never behind (Jul 5, 2016)

Luxe Swap has this coat up for sale on eBay, if anyone has a ship to command.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

I don't think I could get both it and me into my Clackacraft.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

never behind said:


> Luxe Swap has this coat up for sale on eBay, if anyone has a ship to command.
> 
> View attachment 59272
> 
> View attachment 59273


If a land cruiser counts, as a ship to command.....hmmmn? Nice coat!


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## EclecticSr. (Sep 21, 2014)

Swap out the buttons for some in bone and you have the equivalent of a British warm/great coat.
Bidding I think starts at around $20.00.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

NOT appropriate to the season.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 59950


You can never go wrong with Cary Grant. Looks like a navy-colored Polo coat.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

No, you can't.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

The return of the frock?


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## EclecticSr. (Sep 21, 2014)

^^^^^^great coat and a good example of how a pin collar shirt and tie should be worn.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Autumn looms.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## ran23 (Dec 11, 2014)

Pulled out Herringbone overcoat, got a button to sew.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

ran23 said:


> Pulled out Herringbone overcoat, got a button to sew.


Old friendships require maintenance. Enjoy sewing on that button!


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

I'm far from impressed with the suit but the coat is good.


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## StephenRG (Apr 7, 2005)

Oldsarge said:


> I'm far from impressed with the suit but the coat is good.


I love that suit! Agree about the coat, though.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 64991
> 
> 
> I'm far from impressed with the suit but the coat is good.


Well said, my friend.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Tweedlover (Jan 30, 2021)

Quite nice. Particularly with that turtleneck.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Tweedlover said:


> Quite nice. Particularly with that turtleneck.


Indeed, the turtleneck does put a very fine edge on that rig!


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## StephenRG (Apr 7, 2005)

Yosel Tiefenbrun - cashmere/alpaca:


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

I can imagine no end of ladies wanting to snuggle up against that coat!


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## never behind (Jul 5, 2016)

I didn’t want to start a new thread and this seemed a good place to ask this. I’d like to buy a Harrington and considering O’Connell’s. Does anyone know if they ever put those on sale?


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

never behind said:


> I didn't want to start a new thread and this seemed a good place to ask this. I'd like to buy a Harrington and considering O'Connell's. Does anyone know if they ever put those on sale?


They rarely go on sale and when they do so, the discount is not that great. As I recall it has been in the range of 10%. Good luck in your hunt.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## never behind (Jul 5, 2016)

Well, a jacket and not a coat, but I'll post here anyway. Found a Baracuta G9 on eBay. I wish the sleeves were shorter (or my arms longer) but otherwise it's in excellent condition. Waiting for spring now.


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## never behind (Jul 5, 2016)

Came across this on Twitter. Officer of Austro-Hungarian army, 1898. Coat is nice, too.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

X-Post from Trad board. Vintage coat I picked up.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## drpeter (Nov 21, 2008)

It's unclear whether the jacket in this picture is part of a dinner suit. The lapels seem to have satin facing, but they could also be a thin leather of some sort. And the buttons are not satin-wrapped, but appear to be the usual horn or plastic. That said, assuming it is part of a dinner suit, I must say I rather like the "deconstruction" of the sacred dinner jacket/suit, which involves combining the dinner jacket itself with other items, like the turtleneck in the image above. A bit of defiance, perhaps, in the face of convention.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Picked up a vintage camelhair polo coat. I love the midweight fabric with the spongey malleable feel to it. Very insulating compared to wool and soft as well. It doesn't feel as bulky as my heavier wool raglan coats.

I will need to lengthen the sleeves as much as I can, and the body of the coat ended up being bigger than I thought.

Too big, or should I wear the coat as is? Leaning towards getting it tailored.

Would taking in the body and/or skirt of the coat be an issue for a tailor? My concern is the patch pockets.


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

You took that pic below decks? Here, I straightened it up for you...












delicious_scent said:


> Would taking in the body and/or skirt of the coat be an issue for a tailor? My concern is the patch pockets.


Properly fitted, quarters hang straight. Yours don't. So, were you to post a side view, a quantity of fabric probably billows at the lower rear. Large tailoring job. Sleeves on a light, vintage coat often can't be let down due to indelible creasing, soil and wear. If kept, suggest wearing only while walking on poorly lit streets on very dark nights with no moon.🇺🇦


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Peak and Pine said:


> You took that pic below decks? Here, I straightened it up for you...
> View attachment 84929
> 
> 
> ...


Below decks?

Damn, well I appreciate the feedback. The back and sides are definitely billowy all around, including the rear.

I'm stubborn, so as long as this is actually tailorable, I almost always go for it. I've successfully had my tailor narrow the shoulders of an overcoat before, so hopefully this works out.


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

delicious_scent said:


> Below decks?
> I'm stubborn, so as long as this is actually tailorable, I almost always go for it.


Okay. Girth is most often eliminated by ajusting the side seams, which means taking in one side of the seam more than another, usually the front. I have no idea how you'd work something that large with a conventional sewing machine, but an actual tailor probably has more precision equipment than me with just my cordless drill and a stapler. _Below decks, _a nautical term where the roll of the ship appears more obvious, your 60° lean in your posted pics, a prelude to my remembered seasickness.🇺🇦


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Peak and Pine said:


> Okay. Girth is most often eliminated by ajusting the side seams, which means taking in one side of the seam more than another, usually the front. I have no idea how you'd work something that large with a conventional sewing machine, but an actual tailor probably has more precision equipment than me with just my cordless drill and a stapler. _Below decks, _a nautical term where the roll of the ship appears more obvious, your 60° lean in your posted pics, a prelude to my remembered seasickness.🇺🇦


Home surgery experience is still more than my own, so this still gives me an idea of how difficult a project might be for a tailor.

Ah, I didn't even realize my picture or stance was crooked, now I can't unsee it, but I did learn something new today.


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## drpeter (Nov 21, 2008)

delicious_scent said:


> Below decks?
> 
> Damn, well I appreciate the feedback. The back and sides are definitely billowy all around, including the rear.
> 
> I'm stubborn, so as long as this is actually tailorable, I almost always go for it. I've successfully had my tailor narrow the shoulders of an overcoat before, so hopefully this works out.


If your tailor can narrow the shoulders of any coat or jacket, then he or she should be skilled enough to make this coat less billowy. As Peaks pointed out, it is still a large job and you might want to consider the expense. On the other hand, there is also a recent fashion/style trend for wearing loose-fitting overcoats, often unbuttoned, but those are usually single-breasted. And to state the obvious, when polo coats were first used by polo players to stay warm between chukkers, they were very loosely wrapped with only a cloth belt to secure them, no buttons.

I have several coats, polo and otherwise, and some of them are looser than the others. I don't mind very much.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

drpeter said:


> If your tailor can narrow the shoulders of any coat or jacket, then he or she should be skilled enough to make this coat less billowy. As Peaks pointed out, it is still a large job and you might want to consider the expense. On the other hand, there is also a recent fashion/style trend for wearing loose-fitting overcoats, often unbuttoned, but those are usually single-breasted. And to state the obvious, when polo coats were first used by polo players to stay warm between chukkers, they were very loosely wrapped with only a cloth belt to secure them, no buttons.
> 
> I have several coats, polo and otherwise, and some of them are looser than the others. I don't mind very much.


Sounds good. I called them to confirm and they said they can.

The expense seems more than okay. I really do like this coat and especially the material. Camel hair is as sumptuous and spongey as I expected, very warm too. The coat is not as flashy as I expected it to be either, which is great.

I've jumped on board the roomy raglan overcoat trend, and I don't plan on leaving it. It does have a historical reference to it as well with the old movie screenshots I've seen Fading_Fast post, and also Apparel Arts drawings. The silhouettes are dramatic and the coats have a flow to them. They're also relatively fit agnostic in case I ever get fat in the future. The giant sleeves are my favourite part, and how comfortable they are. I'm not sure how I ever tolerated slim overcoats in the past.

I am still on the fence about the silhouette, but I will get it pinned at my tailor and see how I like it with a trimmer body.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

delicious_scent said:


> Sounds good. I called them to confirm and they said they can.
> 
> The expense seems more than okay. I really do like this coat and especially the material. Camel hair is as sumptuous and spongey as I expected, very warm too. The coat is not as flashy as I expected it to be either, which is great.
> 
> ...


I had the body taken in and sleeves lengthened. Fortunately the coat didn't have that much wear to it.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## drpeter (Nov 21, 2008)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 88542


Those grey flannels are lovely! And the coat is nice too.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## drpeter (Nov 21, 2008)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 89678


Reminds me a bit of a US naval officer's bridge coat.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

A bit split between two vintage coats I've been looking at. I'd be wearing them in an oversized. 

This one is the Hickey Freeman in a mystery fabric. The seller says it's fuzzy and possibly Alpaca. It's glen plaid. I like the Hickey's peak lapels, but not a fan of the brighter colour. It's also very long; I'd have to get the hem shortened and narrowed, and the sleeves shortened. The coat's texture is overall appealing, despite the image quality. 
















This is one is by Abrahaum Straus in cashmere. The lapels are flimsy looking, but I like how they curve and roll. Lots of lapped seams and swelled edges everywhere. Love the details. No tailoring will be necessary, but there isn't much texture, and I've also heard that pure cashmere drapes


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Oh, I LIKE this one.


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