# Breaks on chinos?



## cgibbons (Jan 27, 2008)

Hey fellas,

Do you wear breaks in your chinos or do you let them fall flat? 

I've got some new chinos that I need to have shortened. Should I give them a hot wash and dry before I take them to the tailor or should I just tell him that they are new and unwashed and let him factor in a shrinking correction?

Thanks,
Charlie


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## fruityoaty (Jan 18, 2008)

If they are untreated (must-iron), I would wash them a few times first. Twill is a very elastic weave.

I would go with a slight break, just like everything else.


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## Markus (Sep 14, 2004)

*good idea, hot wash, hot dry. then hem.*



cgibbons said:


> Hey fellas,
> 
> Do you wear breaks in your chinos or do you let them fall flat?
> 
> ...


Charlie, I wear virtually all my pants without a break, even chinos. Most of the time I see guys wearing pants with a full break. Makes 'em look like they're wearing somebody else's pants. (I realize this is not what you are thinking about. Just complaining.)


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## Quay (Mar 29, 2008)

*good idea, hot wash, hot dry. then hem.*

Very good advice I think for the trousers in question. But a break? Why wear broken pants? 

Cordially,
Adrian Quay, a no-break sort of person.


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## ksinc (May 30, 2005)

I believe that how much break you wear should be determined by your height and proportion as Flusser suggests. I'm "athletic" - tall and slim waisted w/ big shoulders - so I like a full break and more substantial footwear (bluchers & double soles) particularly with 8.5oz Bills and B2 Supima OCBDs (heavier fabrics).

It's all about what you are trying to achieve visually IMHO. My challenge is to balance my skinny calves and ankles with my broader shoulders.

Chinos I am going to wear with an OCBD and welted/heeled shoes; I wear them just like I wear any other trousers - pleated and cuffed w/ a full break. 

Chinos that I am going to wear sockless with boat shoes are flat front and jean hemmed. I get them 1/2" shorter to take most of the break out. Trying to keep the hem and/or cuff of the trousers, socks, and footwear in proportion to each other as well. I also like to wear casual shirts a little tighter (vanity ) than might be "appropriate" for business casual.

The Trad forum generally seems to be more interested in what is "prescribed" and less interested in personal preferences or maximizing visual appeal via the cut of your clothes. I think you just have to pick your poison here. A lot of people live by the 'cuffs go with pleats' principle outside of the TF consensus; which I think as a rule cuffs everything and likes 'shorter' sleeves and trouser lengths (little-to-no break).

Definitely pre-wash before hemming unless you have a known entity (like Bills) that you have figured out already.


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## Joe Beamish (Mar 21, 2008)

ksinc said:


> I
> 
> Definitely pre-wash before hemming unless you have a known entity (like Bills) that you have figured out already.


Bills come prewashed, don't they?


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## ksinc (May 30, 2005)

Joe Beamish said:


> Bills come prewashed, don't they?


Yes, but they still shrink a little IMHO. I always find things aren't done shrinking until about the third wash, but I'm *very* particular. Hansen's cuts them 1/2" longer than requested "for shrinkage." I order 33x33.5" which comes 33x34" just like all my other cotton, non-dry clean trousers.

I have not noticed that they shrink any less in length than say Levi's; which I order 34x34. I'd say the one difference is the Bills don't seem to get any tighter (shrink in the waist), but they do get a little shorter.

YMMV. While my Wife hang dries my shirts, she "molests" the Bills on medium heat.


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## Joe Beamish (Mar 21, 2008)

ksinc said:


> Yes, but they still shrink a little IMHO.


Uh-oh. I just dropped off a pair with a tailor. Now I better call him and ask to add a bit of length to account for shrinkage.

Good to know. Thanks.


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## Cruiser (Jul 21, 2006)

ksinc said:


> Chinos I am going to wear with an OCBD and welted/heeled shoes; I wear them just like I wear any other trousers - pleated and cuffed w/ a full break.
> 
> Chinos that I am going to wear sockless with boat shoes are flat front and jean hemmed. I get them 1/2" shorter to take most of the break out.


I do the same thing except that all of mine are flat front. The chinos that I wear with an OCBD and a jacket are longer with more break than the ones I wear with boat shoes. I even have them hanging in different areas of the closet separate from each other.

Cruiser


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## msphotog (Jul 5, 2006)

I have noticed that my Bill's do shrink as mentioned, But if I only dry them for a few minutes, and then hang them by the cuffs, the weight of the pants will stretch them out. I've also noticed that laundering at my cleaners will also stretch them out, presumably when they are pressed.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

I wear my chinos the same length that I attempt with all my trousers...no break or just a very slight break, with the front hem (or cuff) just brushing the top of my shoes and the the back of the trouser leg, sized just a bit longer, to fall half way down the heels of my shoes. Must admit though, as the trousers settle on the waist, throughout the day, a modest break does develop! :icon_smile_wink: As others have stated, pre-wash your chinos several times, before hemming!


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## paper clip (May 15, 2006)

msphotog said:


> I have noticed that my Bill's do shrink as mentioned, But if I only dry them for a few minutes, and then hang them by the cuffs, the weight of the pants will stretch them out. I've also noticed that laundering at my cleaners will also stretch them out, presumably when they are pressed.


This has been my experience as well.


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