# How To (Properly) Sew On A Button



## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

Properly sewing on a button is not difficult. For the beginner it can - and should - take a bit of time. The method illustrated applies to shirts. The same method applies to suits and coats, but there are usually more turns on the shank and sometimes the thread end is left running inside the garment rather than being locked through the thread.

And the whole thing only required 15 minutes! Times the average 14 buttons on a shirt. Now you know why they sew buttons on using button-sewing machines.

As an aside, there are three popular bespoke stitches. The cross-stitch is most popular; parallel stitch second most (and the one usually seen on RTW), and the "chicken-foot" stitch the least seen ... but that's a story for another day.

Copyright Â© 2006 Alexander S. Kabbaz. All rights reserved. Forum members may print one copy for their personal use only. No reproduction of any kind permitted without written permission of the copyright holder.​
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## shoelovingSwede (Jul 28, 2005)

I will absolutely use your generosity and save a copy of this on my hard drive, print out and put with the sewing kit.

Thank you for the detailed description.

JJ


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## lameduck (Jan 6, 2005)

[:0] ...Wow.

Regards


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## Holdfast (Oct 30, 2005)

Legendary post![8D]

I had no idea that no knots were used. This will save me fiddling about trying to tie little knots at the end. Of course, instead I'll be fiddling about trying to shove the needle through the shank without stabbing myself in the process!

If only I had this guide a couple of hours ago when I had to sew a couple of buttons back on... ah well, next time.

Thank you!


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## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

So when the thread forming the shank begins to unwind, that implies that the seamster or seamstress has not properly drawn the thread through the shank?


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

> quote:So when the thread forming the shank begins to unwind, that implies that the seamster or seamstress has not properly drawn the thread through the shank?


 This happens all the time ... even when Monika sews them on. Sometimes you can't properly see the "locks" through the blood ... and she refuses to use my pliers trick!

*https://www.CustomShirt1.com

Kabbaz-Kelly & Sons Fine Custom Clothiers
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* Alex Begg Cashmere * Pantherella Socks **​


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## Gong Tao Jai (Jul 7, 2005)

Thank you for another excellent post. My button technique will be much improved. 

Would there be any disadvantage to tying knots at the ends? I would worry that the button would come off if I didn't tie it. 

Alex, what is your opinion of the 'matchstick' method my mother taught me (I believe Thomas Mahon recommended this way, too), where a matchstick or something similar is placed under the button and removed before wrapping the shank to ensure the proper amount of slack in the stitches?

And what about the 'chicken-foot' stitch? Is there any particular magic to it, or is it as simple as it looks?


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

> quote:Would there be any disadvantage to tying knots at the ends?


 As a professional, it would indicate that I have no confidence in the proper method. There is no disadvantage to tying a final knot except for its ugly look and a bit of bulk. There is a disadvantage to tying an initial knot when making the first stitches in that you will feel it against your chest through the fabric and it can be bothersome.



> quote:Alex, what is your opinion of the 'matchstick' method my mother taught me (I believe Thomas Mahon recommended this way, too), where a matchstick or something similar is placed under the button and removed before wrapping the shank to ensure the proper amount of slack in the stitches?


 I have no problem with it except that it gets in the way and greatly cuts down on sewing speed.



> quote:And what about the 'chicken-foot' stitch? Is there any particular magic to it, or is it as simple as it looks?


 No magic. 

*https://www.CustomShirt1.com

Kabbaz-Kelly & Sons Fine Custom Clothiers
* Bespoke Shirts & Furnishings * Zimmerli Swiss Underwear **
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## Andre Yew (Sep 2, 2005)

Alex,

Thanks for this helpful information --- it's going to help me sew lots other things besides my disintegrating Neopolitan button threads.

If a button's shank thread is starting to unravel, is the only way to fix it to remove the button and resew it?

--Andre


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

> quote:If a button's shank thread is starting to unravel, is the only way to fix it to remove the button and resew it?


 Yes.

And you are correct in your other thought. The way the thread is begun is the proper way for many other operations as well. If you are doing it in a visible area, try to make it as decorative as possible.

*https://www.CustomShirt1.com

Kabbaz-Kelly & Sons Fine Custom Clothiers
* Bespoke Shirts & Furnishings * Zimmerli Swiss Underwear **
* Alex Begg Cashmere * Pantherella Socks **​


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## mmkn (Jan 14, 2005)

TOB (Thing Of Beauty) Alex, thank you.

- M


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## Andy (Aug 25, 2002)

> quote:_Originally posted by shoelovingSwede_
> 
> I will absolutely use your generosity and save a copy of this on my hard drive, print out and put with the sewing kit.


And it will be *here* forever:

Andy


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## Cantabrigian (Aug 29, 2005)

Thank you, Alex, for another gem.

How quickly can you go through the process now?

Looking at customshirt1, it sounds as if you still personally sew the sample shirts for your clients and then hand production over to your team after that. Is that correct? 

Do you personally do the sewing on shirts that will be more high profile?


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

> quote:How quickly can you go through the process now?
> 
> Looking at customshirt1, it sounds as if you still personally sew the sample shirts for your clients and then hand production over to your team after that. Is that correct?
> 
> Do you personally do the sewing on shirts that will be more high profile?


 Me? I'm the 15 minute person. Monika can do it in about 3 minutes; Joelle in about 2.

I measure and create the styling in cooperation with the client. Then I make the pattern. Then I cut the shirt. Then Antonio sews it. Then I mark it for buttonholes and make the buttonholes. Then I mark the button placement. Then Monika or Joelle sews on the buttons and cleans all the loose threads from the shirt. Cleaning loose threads - especially inside the buttonholes - actually takes longer than sewing on the buttons if it is done correctly. Then I launder the shirt. Then Lucia presses it.

Me sew? I can. Both Joelle and I can. The last time I sewed an entire shirt was in 2004 when Antonio suffered a heart attack ... and then I sewed every day for more than two months straight.

Most of the sewing I do these days is to sew new inventions and to test out new ideas.

My "team"? Now you know the entire team ... except Feti. Feti does my monograms which, of course, are not on every shirt. In her native Serbia, she used to embroider the lace corners of fine bespoke linens. About five years ago, she began with me and I taught her how to embroider monograms. Since then, neither Joelle nor I have sewn monograms except occasionally to show Feti a new style.

BTW, nobody on the "team" has been with me less than 5 years. Antonio and Joelle more than 20 each. Lucia, 15. Damien (my emergency cutter and son), 13. Monika and Feti, 5.

*https://www.CustomShirt1.com

Kabbaz-Kelly & Sons Fine Custom Clothiers
* Bespoke Shirts & Furnishings * Zimmerli Swiss Underwear **
* Alex Begg Cashmere * Pantherella Socks **​


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## The Gabba Goul (Feb 11, 2005)

> quote:_Originally posted by Alexander Kabbaz_
> 
> As an aside, there are three popular bespoke stitches. The cross-stitch is most popular; parallel stitch second most (and the one usually seen on RTW), and the "chicken-foot" stitch the least seen ... but that's a story for another day.
> 
> ...


Bravissimo!!!
grazi..Il Maestro...

I always feel more educated after reading one of Mr Kabbaz's posts on shirt making...

jsut wondering...is the "chicken foot" what they call that kind of funky style of attaching buttons that Borrelli uses on all their shirts??? Now...assuming tha all 3 were constructed perfectly, would there be any advantages/disadvantages to any of these styles that would make one more desireable than the other???

*****
[image]https://radio.weblogs.com/0119318/Screenshots/rose.jpg[/image]"See...What I'm gonna do is wear a shirt only once, and then give it right away to the laundry...eh?
A new shirt every day!!!"​


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

'Scuse drawing. Red's the thread. Chicken Foot Stitch (walking up the shirt):

​
For some reason, my gut tells me parallel is the strongest, cross-stitch the second strongest, and chicken-foot the least strong ... but I have absolutely no physical proof upon which to base that.

*https://www.CustomShirt1.com

Kabbaz-Kelly & Sons Fine Custom Clothiers
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## manton (Jul 26, 2003)

In my experience as a wearer (not a sewer), cross-stitches last much longer than parallel stitches. Plus, I like the look better.

So, if you think parallel is stronger, why do you shank your buttons with a cross stitch? Cutting a corner?


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

> quote:So, if you think parallel is stronger, why do you shank your buttons with a cross stitch? Cutting a corner?


 I said my gut intuited - not that my brain calculated. But the direct answer is no. I think cross-stitch is nicer looking.

Although for some of my *better* clients I use the even rarer chicken-foot ... but what would you know about that.[}]

*https://www.CustomShirt1.com

Kabbaz-Kelly & Sons Fine Custom Clothiers
* Bespoke Shirts & Furnishings * Zimmerli Swiss Underwear **
* Alex Begg Cashmere * Pantherella Socks **​


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## freakseam (Mar 5, 2003)

Thank you, Alexander Kabbaz.


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## Fabrizio (Dec 25, 2004)

Amazing post. So how come none of my T&A shirts have those shank things?



Carmine


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

> quote:So how come none of my T&A shirts have those shank things?


 Carmine: I dunno. The only T&A I pay any attention to doesn't have buttons.

Thank you, freakseam.

*https://www.CustomShirt1.com

Kabbaz-Kelly & Sons Fine Custom Clothiers
* Bespoke Shirts & Furnishings * Zimmerli Swiss Underwear **
* Alex Begg Cashmere * Pantherella Socks **​


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## jamgood (Feb 8, 2006)

[?]Is a 3 hole button indicative of a hand sewn button, a function which no machine can duplicate? And why no third thread loop, considered excessive?[?]

jamgood: better quality new clothing, never described as "Amazing", @ 60-90% off retail https://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZjamgoodQQhtZ-!


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

> quote:Is a 3 hole button indicative of a hand sewn button, a function which no machine can duplicate? And why no third thread loop, considered excessive?


There is a common misconception that 3-hole buttons cannot be sewn on by machine. Therefore, we get occasional requests for them from clients who think they state unequivocally that the button was sewn on by hand. Other than that, I personally happen to like them. They have no inherent advantage or disadvantage over the more common 4-hole button with the minor exception that the holes can be just slightly farther apart which imparts greater strength to the button center.

As with all good shell buttons, these are available both as trochus and as mother-of-pearl. The prime difference here is that the m.o.p. is more shiny and lustrous vs. the trochus which is duller. I have had clients request the trochus because they disliked the brightness of the genuine article but I differ strongly with this opinion. Nonetheless, custom is as the client wants it to be.

As far as the selected stitch, I prefer the "arrow" stitch for 3-hole buttons. The triangle stitch is a bit of overkill.

*https://www.CustomShirt1.com

Kabbaz-Kelly & Sons Fine Custom Clothiers
* Bespoke Shirts & Furnishings * Zimmerli Swiss Underwear **
* Alex Begg Cashmere * Pantherella Socks **​


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## ChubbyTiger (Mar 10, 2005)

Thanks to AK for writing this and to Andy for making it permanent. I now have a much better idea why my resewn buttons never seem to last or look good. 

CT


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## medwards (Feb 6, 2005)

So, Alex, what are the recommended laundering tips for removing blood stains from #240 Egyptian-grown long-staple cotton, Italian-spun into 2-Ply weaving yarns, and woven in Switzerland and from mercerized cotton glace #24 thread?.


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## taillfuzz (Mar 30, 2004)

> quote:_Originally posted by Fabrizio_
> 
> Amazing post. So how come none of my T&A shirts have those shank things?
> 
> Carmine


Very few shirts have a shank because: 1) They are machine made, 2) Labor cost drives up the price. I discussed this with Craig Taylor and he said that he loved the look, but did not want to raise thae price of his shirts to cover the cost.

I also discussed this with Mr Colban (Charvet). He said that he discovered a machine in Japan that would sew on the buttons with a shank. He prefers to use the machine because it provides uniformity. In my experience, Charvet is the only machine made button with a shank and they hold up very well.

The Borrelli chicken stitch holds up well if executed properly: not so well if the quality of the hand sewing is slipshod. I have found it necessary to resew many Borrelli buttons over the years: obviously a case of a seamstress trying to hurry and performing substandard work; although in recent years Borelli seems to be doing a much better job.

I would prefer a well executed machine-made shirt to sloppy hand sewing.


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

> quote:So, Alex, what are the recommended laundering tips for removing blood stains from #240 Egyptian-grown long-staple cotton, Italian-spun into 2-Ply weaving yarns, and woven in Switzerland and from mercerized cotton glace #24 thread?


 Oh. That's simple. A mixture of glycerine and liquid dishwashing detergent will do the trick quite nicely on your imaginary shirt.

BTW ... to the best of my knowledge, nobody is currently weaving - or has ever successfully woven - a 2x2 240s even though certain purveyors claim to be making shirts from it. However ... I expect to be featuring a 2x2 220s in the not too distant future should the current weaving tests prove successful.



> quote:I also discussed this with Mr Colban (Charvet). He said that he discovered a machine in Japan that would sew on the buttons with a shank. He prefers to use the machine because it provides uniformity. In my experience, Charvet is the only machine made button with a shank and they hold up very well.


 This machine was designed to sew on suit buttons. It serves as well for shirt buttons, but the stitch does come undone more frequently than properly hand-attached buttons. Though I have no quarel with the Colban philosophy, I personally eschew uniformity in favor of individuality ... a luxury simply not available to such a large house.

*https://www.CustomShirt1.com

Kabbaz-Kelly & Sons Fine Custom Clothiers
* Bespoke Shirts & Furnishings * Zimmerli Swiss Underwear **
* Alex Begg Cashmere * Pantherella Socks **​


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## David V (Sep 19, 2005)

The biggest suprise to me is that this is all done from the front of the shirt!

David

Everything went to hell when we let California have its own pizza.


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## jamgood (Feb 8, 2006)

> quote:_Originally posted by Alexander Kabbaz_
> 
> 'Scuse drawing. Red's the thread. Chicken Foot Stitch (walking up the shirt):
> 
> ...


I am taking immediate sabbatical to re-sew all my shirt buttons in cardinale rouge "chiken foots" to con folks into thinking I patronize (can afford ) Kabbaz-Kelly et Fils. [)]

jamgood: better quality new clothing, never described as "Amazing", @ 60-90% off retail https://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZjamgoodQQhtZ-!


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

> quote:_Originally posted by James C. Goodwin_
> 
> 
> 
> ...


D'accord. But ... you need to make a majority of UP walking chicken feet (for optimistic, up days) and a minority of down walking chicken feet (for those pessimistic, down days).

*https://www.CustomShirt1.com

Kabbaz-Kelly & Sons Fine Custom Clothiers
* Bespoke Shirts & Furnishings * Zimmerli Swiss Underwear **
* Alex Begg Cashmere * Pantherella Socks **​


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## jamgood (Feb 8, 2006)

Howse about a random mixture of up, down, left & and right for the days when we forget to take our schizophrenia meds?[)]

jamgood: better quality new clothing, never described as "Amazing", @ 60-90% off retail https://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZjamgoodQQhtZ-!


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## jamgood (Feb 8, 2006)

Re: AK. I still can't get the mental picture (movie short?) out of my head of RL dragging a cow carcass up the drive, only to later emerge with it strapped to the top of one of his F1s as he drives away.

PS: When the venture capital boys talk you into going national, the way things are going, perhaps the name K-Mart will be available.


jamgood: better quality new clothing, never described as "Amazing", @ 60-90% off retail https://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZjamgoodQQhtZ-!


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## rip (Jul 13, 2005)

> quote:_Originally posted by Alexander Kabbaz_
> 
> 
> 
> ...


hehehe!

Train your eye! Then train your brain to trust your eye.


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## rip (Jul 13, 2005)

This is a wonderfully informative post. I assume most of this technique works for coat and trouser buttons as well, but since we don't generally launder those items, what works in place of shrinkage to lock the threads in the shank?

Train your eye! Then train your brain to trust your eye.


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

> quote:This is a wonderfully informative post. I assume most of this technique works for coat and trouser buttons as well, but since we don't generally launder those items, what works in place of shrinkage to lock the threads in the shank?


 Thank you. There are any number of ways. One common technique is to run the tail of the thread down into the coat for a couple of inches and then cut it off. Another is to reinsert the thread down into the finished shank, sort of like a hangman's noose.

*https://www.CustomShirt1.com

Kabbaz-Kelly & Sons Fine Custom Clothiers
* Bespoke Shirts & Furnishings * Zimmerli Swiss Underwear **
* Alex Begg Cashmere * Pantherella Socks **​


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## bosthist (Apr 4, 2004)

> quote:_Originally posted by Alexander Kabbaz_
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hmmmm....didn't know you were into space aliens. The absence of a belly button is a dead giveaway.

Regards,

Charles

https://bostonhistory.typepad.com


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## Andre Yew (Sep 2, 2005)

Alex,

It seems #24 glace, mercerized cotton thread is kind of hard to find for those of us not in the clothing business. The best fit I've found so far is a Hymark quilting thread that's not mercerized. So some questions:

1. What brand of thread are you using?
2. It seems threads of that size with a glazed finish tend to be quilting threads. This isn't a question, just an observation.
3. Is the mercerization just for looks, or does the process actually help the strength of the thread?
4. There seems to be lots of different ways to glaze a thread: starch, wax, silicone, etc. Are there any that are preferred or detrimental?
5. If I can't find a glazed thread, will running a normal thread through a block of beeswax be a sufficient substitute?
6. There are some brands that claim to use extra-long staple cotton. I assume this is a good and desirable characteristic.

Thanks again for this really helpful post, and I appreciate any information you can provide.

--Andre


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

Dear Andre,

As I said in the post, use Home Sewing Thread and double the stitch count. I don't quilt and know nothing of the characteristics of quilting thread.

Alex

EDIT: Old folk shouldn't try to spell past their bedtimes. [B)]

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* Alex Begg Cashmere * Pantherella Socks **​


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## Andre Yew (Sep 2, 2005)

Thans Alex. I was just wanted to do the best job possible, but now it will be fun experimenting with different threads --- we all have to get our kicks somewhere. 

--Andre


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## The Gabba Goul (Feb 11, 2005)

Thanks again Mr Kabbaz...I've been in the middle of a plastic button banishment from all my shirts for a while now, and this post has been a very valuable tool in helping me with that quest...but I have just one more question...I have some vintage "shank" style pearl buttons with no holes on the face but rather a small shank on the back with just two holes...I know you use these buttons on shirts sometimes...and I was just wondering which way you would consider to be the best to attach them...would the concept remain the same (no knots) or is there another trick to attaching these type of buttons? Thanks...

*****
[image]https://radio.weblogs.com/0119318/Screenshots/rose.jpg[/image]"See...What I'm gonna do is wear a shirt only once, and then give it right away to the laundry...eh?
A new shirt every day!!!"​


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## luisduo (Aug 28, 2004)

Chicken Foot?
I've spoken to a few shirtmakers here in T.O and they call it "fleur de lis".

I would like to see the underside of the collar stand. Do you pull your threads through to the underside or just continue with the prickstitch on the right side of the stand?

Most men put on clothes, I choose to get dressed.


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

> quote:would the concept remain the same (no knots) or is there another trick to attaching these type of buttons?


 The concept is the same. You may want to reduce the shank sewing to two turns depending upon the length of the button's built in shank.


> quote: Chicken Foot?
> I've spoken to a few shirtmakers here in T.O and they call it "fleur de lis".
> I would like to see the underside of the collar stand. Do you pull your threads through to the underside or just continue with the prickstitch on the right side of the stand?


 A _fleur de lis_ is a rounded, ornate icon. Three strands of thread may be pretty, but neither ornate nor iconic IMO. That aside, the thread continues through to the rear of the cloth on the shirt body where there is no interlining. If the cloth is just prickstitched (passing through only one layer), the assembly of button and thread will weaken the cloth and, in short order, pull out leaving a hole in the fabric. On cuffs and collar band if you wish to catch only top cloth layer and interlining layer but not pass through the rear layer of cloth, it is an option. Here, again, and moreso on the collar, there is greater strain on the button/thread assembly than on the shirt front or gauntlet. Depending upon the weight of the cloth, I prefer to sew as solidly as possibly by catching all layers.

*https://www.CustomShirt1.com

Kabbaz-Kelly & Sons Fine Custom Clothiers
* Bespoke Shirts & Furnishings * Zimmerli Swiss Underwear **
* Alex Begg Cashmere * Pantherella Socks **​


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## pkincy (Feb 9, 2006)

[/quote]
The Borrelli chicken stitch holds up well if executed properly: not so well if the quality of the hand sewing is slipshod. I have found it necessary to resew many Borrelli buttons over the years: obviously a case of a seamstress trying to hurry and performing substandard work; although in recent years Borelli seems to be doing a much better job.

I would prefer a well executed machine-made shirt to sloppy hand sewing.
[/quote]

Hearing this I feel better. I opened a new Borrelli today and will have to resew on 80% of its buttons prior to wearing it. Not a single button on the placket was pierced through the shank....they were simply wound around and left loose. Also the chicken foot stitches are very irregular. Must have been after a lunch with lots of vino!

Perry


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## Chuck Franke (Aug 8, 2003)

Having had lunch in that neighborhood, Perry's supposition makes sense... only place I've ever seen a bespoke Kiton apron (no joke, Ciro eats there too it seems) on a waiter and though the power went out twice during lunch it was the best lunch I ever had and I seem to recall being pretty sleepy afterward.

www.carlofranco.com
Handmade Seven Fold Ties


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## patbrady2005 (Oct 4, 2005)

I had to bump this for it's usefulness. 

I usually have to adjust the cuff buttons on new RTW dress shirts so that they fit a bit tighter on my wrist. My wife usually does this for me and has always done a good job. 

I went on a bit of a shirt buying spree this week (7 new dress shirts) and I wanted to start wearing them right away but didn't want to impose on her to do them because she's done so much else for me lately.

So, I printed this out and got to work. A few bloody fingers later, I had 4 shirts done in about an hour and a half, with pretty decent results.

Alex, my wife appreciates your instructions very much!


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## medwards (Feb 6, 2005)

patbrady2005 said:


> I had to bump this for it's usefulness.


No you didn't. It's linked in the Hall of Fame Threads: Quick Reference sticky for easy access. :icon_smile_big:


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## patbrady2005 (Oct 4, 2005)

Rookie mistake - I searched for this thread for about a half an hour before I found it! That's what I get for trying to be helpful...


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## smr (Apr 24, 2005)

Wonderful post, Alex. Thanks for the education!

Scott


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

Thank you. We just had a crew in to tape a show. Made them shoot the sewing of a button ... but who knows if it gets in or ends up on the editing room floor.


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## jazzy1 (May 2, 2006)

Alexander Kabbaz said:


> Thank you. We just had a crew in to tape a show. Made them shoot the sewing of a button ... but who knows if it gets in or ends up on the editing room floor.


If anyone know shirts it Alex. In fact I will on occasion pick up the Rob Report, to see the things I can't afford, and right there smack on page 166 in the June 2007 issue is Mr. Kabbaz. In discussing crafting a shirt from superfine 200..."it is like sewing melted butter as it runs downstream".

They gave you the bigger font as well!!

A smile came across my face as I thought about all the "free advice" you give.

You just gotta love this forum.


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## Dewey (Sep 4, 2007)

Alexander Kabbaz, thank you for this old thread. I moved the top button on three old favorite shirts, and it's a great satisfaction to have done it myself, done it right, and done it in less than two hours :icon_smile:


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## Wibley (Jan 11, 2009)

Thanks Alexander for your easy to follow how to sew on a button.

I will use this method from now on!

:icon_smile:


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## constantmystery (Apr 18, 2006)

*wonderful explanation! many thanks!!*

Gee, I've been sewing buttons on clothes since the age of nine, when my mother taught me (incorrectly it appears!) so that she wouldn't have to do it. Finally the proper method has been brought to my attention. Mssr. Kabbaz is so generous with his information...and by the way, that shirt in the illustration looks beautiful as well.

Again...thanks!


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## Mannix (Nov 24, 2008)

Thank you to the original poster, I made sure to save this thread to my favorites list. Never know when I'll need to sew on a button.


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## Blueboy1938 (Aug 17, 2008)

Ancient wisdom, but well worth resurrecting.

I don't use a double thread, because I was taught that way by my mother and because it means more thickness than necessary to drag through the cloth each pull. I'd rather do more turns, as I believe it is more secure that way. Also, as I have a very simple method of securing the thread with a tie on the underside, I don't want to be fooling with two threads doing that.

The tie I use is to pick up a couple threads of the material and slide the needle through until there is a small loop. I put the needle through that loop, pull the remaining thread through, repeat, _et voila_, secured!


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## mysharona (Nov 4, 2008)

Alexander Kabbaz said:


> Me? I'm the 15 minute person. Monika can do it in about 3 minutes; Joelle in about 2.


I've been using the method that you contributed to the Esquire Big Black Book in 2006, and can do this very quickly: in about 2-3 minutes. I hope I'm not doing something wrong! I'm definitely no tailor but my buttons always look like the shirt was purchased that way when I'm done!


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## Cardcaptor Charlie (Jul 7, 2008)

Oh, if only I found this thread sooner!

Of course, what I really crave for is knowledge of sewing buttonholes!


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## Dott. Borrelli (Aug 2, 2009)

Wonderful thread, Mr. Kabbaz! When you use the "Chicken Foot Stitch", would all the buttons running down the front of the shirt be perfectly aligned with each other? Your attention to detail borders on the maniacal, which is definitely good, and certainly to be taken as a compliment...

​


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## JDMills (May 19, 2009)

I never tried sewing a button on before and I tried and this method is pretty good, though a little complicated for my big hands. :icon_smile:


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## xopowo (Dec 30, 2008)

Hi all,

Great post, I've been doing my buttons this way with great success. For thread I have been using Mettler's "cordonnet" topstiching thread. I hate to say cotton it is not, but it appears to be super strong. I've been using it ever since I started making shirts and have never had a problem so I have stuck with it.
Cheers,

Todd


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## DougNZ (Aug 31, 2005)

Welcome to AAAC, Todd.


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

Dott. Borrelli said:


> Wonderful thread, Mr. Kabbaz! When you use the "Chicken Foot Stitch", would all the buttons running down the front of the shirt be perfectly aligned with each other? Your attention to detail borders on the maniacal, which is definitely good, and certainly to be taken as a compliment...
> 
> ​


Yes. Actually, I would ask the client if s/he wanted the chicken to be walking up the shirt or down the shirt. Alternatively, were they politically inclined, the steps could be to the right or the left.

As a matter of fact, recent U.S. polling indicates that 40% would be headed right, 20% to the left, and the other 40% declared with firmness, "I Dunno".

Gotta love America. :icon_smile:


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

medwards said:


> So, Alex, what are the recommended laundering tips for removing blood stains from #240 Egyptian-grown long-staple cotton, Italian-spun into 2-Ply weaving yarns, and woven in Switzerland and from mercerized cotton glace #24 thread?.


 Doing some archive indexing work and just noticed your question. You would get the best results with a pair of scissors. :devil:


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## MRR (Nov 19, 2009)

Mr. Kabbaz,

Your tutorial states that you use silk thread on tailored shirts. Is that for buttons, or the button holes? And what size?


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## zblaesi (Dec 30, 2009)

Any guides on how to sew metal buttons on a blazer?


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## Kurt N (Feb 11, 2009)

Alexander Kabbaz said:


> Yes. Actually, I would ask the client if s/he wanted the chicken to be walking up the shirt or down the shirt. Alternatively, were they politically inclined, the steps could be to the right or the left.
> 
> As a matter of fact, recent U.S. polling indicates that 40% would be headed right, 20% to the left, and the other 40% declared with firmness, "I Dunno".:


But what does, e.g., a leftward-stepping chicken mean? Does it mean "I'm on the left" or "I'm on the right but heading leftward"? Or maybe, "The chickens are all you people, headed left and leaving me on the right." Not to mention that the wearer's left is the viewer's right, so maybe it's an instruction: "Hey, you: head to your right."

It's all so confusing.


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## jefferyd (Sep 5, 2008)

zblaesi said:


> Any guides on how to sew metal buttons on a blazer?


Here


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

MRR said:


> Mr. Kabbaz,
> 
> Your tutorial states that you use silk thread on tailored shirts. Is that for buttons, or the button holes? And what size?


"Tailored clothing" means suits and coats on which silk is used for buttonholes and buttonsewing. Here's what it says about shirts. I have emphasized the thread type:


Button Sewing Instructions said:


> We use _*Mercerized Cotton Glacé #24 *_which is thick, strong, and meant not to break. Any thread will work, but if you use "standard home sewing thread", double the number of stitches/turns, etc. Silk is used on tailored clothing.


Don't ask me why 'tailored clothing' doesn't include shirts. It's a trade custom.



zblaesi said:


> Any guides on how to sew metal buttons on a blazer?


The sewing is the same. You're just going through the shank instead of the holes. Depending upon the length of the built-in shank you may want to increase or decrease the length of the thread shank.



Kurt N said:


> But what does, e.g., a leftward-stepping chicken mean? Does it mean "I'm on the left" or "I'm on the right but heading leftward"? Or maybe, "The chickens are all you people, headed left and leaving me on the right." Not to mention that the wearer's left is the viewer's right, so maybe it's an instruction: "Hey, you: head to your right."
> 
> It's all so confusing.


Due to the economy it's been easy the last couple of years. Nobody's giving a da** about left and right. Optimists are having the chicken walk up. Realists are having the chicken walk down. Pessimists are buying ammunition and MRE's instead of shirts.


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## MRR (Nov 19, 2009)

Alexander Kabbaz said:


> "Tailored clothing" means suits and coats on which silk is used for buttonholes and buttonsewing.
> Don't ask me why 'tailored clothing' doesn't include shirts. It's a trade custom.


 Interesting. And it explains how you gave an answer that was completely unambiguous, but I was still confused.

For those of you who want to try this but do not live in large cities;
. Also Here
Mr. Kabbaz seems to be the only online source of 18L MOP buttons.


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

MRR said:


> Mr. Kabbaz seems to be the only online source of 18L MOP buttons.


 Seriously? I thought there were other guys selling MOP.

In NYC you can get Hymark at Steinlauf & Stoller. They'll also ship if you call them.


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## MRR (Nov 19, 2009)

Alexander Kabbaz said:


> Seriously? I thought there were other guys selling MOP.


 I found some people selling MOP. But you are the only one I could find with white MOP in size 18L. Others only had 16L, which seems small.


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

MRR said:


> I found some people selling MOP. But you are the only one I could find with white MOP in size 18L. Others only had 16L, which seems small.


16 Ligne is a real moneysaver as it is approximately 40% smaller in terms of square measure. Therefore the yield-per-shell is much greater. But the traditional size which looks proportionate on a 1.5" center is 18 ligne. 16 ligne is traditional for women's blouses and children's shirts on a 1.25" center as well as for button-down buttons and sleeve placket buttons.


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## TheWGP (Jan 15, 2010)

Interesting - what are your thoughts on thickness? I see you sell 3.2mm thick, whereas some sell buttons as thick as 5mm or thereabouts (usually a 16L, of course). I understand MOP versus trocha and 18L versus 16L, but am just interested in your thoughts on button thickness. One assumes there exists a point at which the button is simply unwieldy.


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

TheWGP said:


> Interesting - what are your thoughts on thickness? I see you sell 3.2mm thick, whereas some sell buttons as thick as 5mm or thereabouts (usually a 16L, of course). I understand MOP versus trocha and 18L versus 16L, but am just interested in your thoughts on button thickness. One assumes there exists a point at which the button is simply unwieldy.


I feel that point is at 3.3mm. Once you reach 4mm, given the cost-saving use of the 16 ligne button these days, you have virtually reached a cube.

Factor 1]
As a shirtmaker, that gives me a problem. If I sew the buttonhole sufficiently large to button the cube button without a great deal of pressure, it's lack of breadth will make it easy for the button to come undone. If I sew it small enough to hold, the strain of buttoning and unbuttoning will weaken the buttonhole. It will eventually tear. With the 18 ligne, it has sufficient breadth that it tends not to unbutton with a properly sized buttonhole.

Factor 2] The thicker the button, the greater the breaking force when ironed on a pressing buck. These are designed to close down almost to the thickness of the shirt fabric. A 3.2mm button is sufficiently strong not to break under these conditions. The added height of the 4mm causes it to receive much greater force from the top half of the clamshell when the buck closes.

Finally, buttons should be proportionately thick. My 18 ligne is 3.2mm. My 16 ligne, which uses a smaller hole, is 2.8mm.


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