# Tailoring a pea coat



## helpmedress25 (Aug 26, 2011)

I just received a Sterlingwear pea coat in navy.* It fits well around the shoulders and chest but it is a bit baggy. If I have the waist brought in, will that make it harder to layer the pea coat (ie with a sportcoat) or will it have no effect? Also, how long is a peacoat supposed to be?* This one probably goes 1-2 inches past my bottom but it just seems kind of long.

Final question--is the navy color supposed to look very dark (almost black even)?* This is actually the second Authentic pea coat I’ve received from Sterlingwear (the first was too small) but I noticed that even though both jackets were navy and the same make, the first navy jacket was not as dark as the second.* Which shade of navy is most desirable?


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## mrkleen (Sep 21, 2007)

My Sterlingwear pea coat is VERY dark blue….you would have to shine a light (or the sun) on it to see it is not black.) I believe that is the right shade for true “navy”. As for the rest, it is down to personal preference. I have never worn my pea coat over a sport coat….two totally different applications IMO. I wear my overcoat (or top coat) when I wear a suit in the winter. My pea coat is reserved for more casual occasions and I usually wear it with a sweater, or other layers. The material is very durable and may be tough for some tailors to work on….but a good tailor should not have a problem. Good luck.


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

helpmedress25 said:


> I just received a Sterlingwear pea coat in navy.* It fits well around the shoulders and chest but it is a bit baggy. If I have the waist brought in, will that make it harder to layer the pea coat (ie with a sportcoat) or will it have no effect? Also, how long is a peacoat supposed to be?* This one probably goes 1-2 inches past my bottom but it just seems kind of long.


Yes, in the interest of "fashion", designers are coming up with shorter and shorter jackets but your pea coat is the real thing. If you were out on deck in the North Atlantic would you want your rear to freeze? A suppressed waist is appropriate for a riding jacket. You have the authentic peacoat, if you take in the waist it will no longer be authentic and it will be difficult, if not impossible to layer underneath it.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

helpmedress25 said:


> I just received a Sterlingwear pea coat in navy.* It fits well around the shoulders and chest but it is a bit baggy. If I have the waist brought in, will that make it harder to layer the pea coat (ie with a sportcoat) or will it have no effect? Also, how long is a peacoat supposed to be?* This one probably goes 1-2 inches past my bottom but it just seems kind of long.
> 
> Final question--is the navy color supposed to look very dark (almost black even)?* This is actually the second Authentic pea coat I've received from Sterlingwear (the first was too small) but I noticed that even though both jackets were navy and the same make, the first navy jacket was not as dark as the second.* Which shade of navy is most desirable?


Yes, taking in your peacoat will make layering more difficult and will not look good. A peacoat is square cut, not fitted, and that's how its supposed to look. If it doesn't cover your backside by and inch or two, you have a problem.

The darker the navy is, the better I like it.


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## DG123 (Sep 16, 2011)

Right on !



arkirshner said:


> Yes, in the interest of "fashion", designers are coming up with shorter and shorter jackets but your pea coat is the real thing. If you were out on deck in the North Atlantic would you want your rear to freeze? A suppressed waist is appropriate for a riding jacket. You have the authentic peacoat, if you take in the waist it will no longer be authentic and it will be difficult, if not impossible to layer underneath it.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Pea coats aren't meant to be worn over a sport coat, just a thick sweater if anything. Don't get it taken in.


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## helpmedress25 (Aug 26, 2011)

Picture this though--my waist is 32" and the coat is built for a 40" waist. I had to get a larger coat due to having a large chest. So what if I just had the coat taken in a few inches? I'm not talking about a drastic tailoring job. And I'm sure a good tailor would know not to take it in too much right?


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

You have a 46" chest?


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## helpmedress25 (Aug 26, 2011)

I misread the chart.

I have a 41" chest and 32" waist. The jacket is a 42R and built for a 38" waist. I originally got a 40R and it did not fit around the armholes.


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## Ekphrastic (Oct 4, 2009)

I'm in a similar situation--I have a narrow waist, so many of the jackets I get need to be taken in.

With a peacoat, you're in an interesting situation. Yes, the previous posters are correct; a traditional peacoat is rather square-cut. However, I find that, with my clothes, having them tailored/taken-in makes them warmer, as they hold more warmth next to my body. Thus, if keeping warm is your goal--and, really, such is the purpose of the peacoat--you may want to have it taken in.

Or, of course, as has been said, layer a sweater underneath as it is now.


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

helpmedress25 said:


> And I'm sure a good tailor would know not to take it in too much right?


Do not be so sure. The direction of recent men's "fashion" has seen tailored clothing designed to be worn closer and closer to the body. Tailors are engaged in a service business , and they want to give the customer what the customer wants. If one does not communicate to the tailor exactly what one wants, one runs the risk that the tailor will give the customer, what the tailor, in good faith, thinks the customer wants. Today the default alteration may be to take a garment in to a "fashionable" degree of tightness, which is to say too tight.

Of course, you have every right to have your clothes fit you the way you choose. If you choose to alter the waist of your peacoat, be sure that you and your tailor are on the same page. You may want to have him pin the coat first so that you can see exactly how much will be taken in.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

put your pea coat on over your sport coat. then see if it still needs to be taken in. 
yes a peacoat style is square up and down. taking it in will spoil the style. 
the length should cover your butt and at least 2 inches below.


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

+1
The rest of us, (myself included), just pussyfoot around. You tell it like it is.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

arkirshner said:


> +1
> The rest of us, (myself included), just pussyfoot around. You tell it like it is.


How rarely I'm accused of tact! :icon_saint7kg:


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## helpmedress25 (Aug 26, 2011)

Brought the pea coat to my tailor and he pinned it with about 1 inch taken off on each side. It looks way better, still has the square-cut look of a pea coat, and will still be large enough so I can comfortably layer underneath. I agree that pea coats usually shouldn't be tailored but I think me having a muscular build and unusual dimensions made it more necessary.


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

helpmedress25 said:


> Brought the pea coat to my tailor and he pinned it with about 1 inch taken off on each side. It looks way better, still has the square-cut look of a pea coat, and will still be large enough so I can comfortably layer underneath. I agree that pea coats usually shouldn't be tailored but I think me having a muscular build and unusual dimensions made it more necessary.


That sounds okay. As long as you can comfortably fit a sports coat underneath and still have a little extra room it's good. A square cut for a large person might look more like an A-line cut on a thin person. It reminds me of a woman I saw on the train wearing a large overcoat that made her look really fat. Then she took it off and she had a really large chest with a small waist. A square fit isn't always the most flattering.


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## godan (Feb 10, 2010)

helpmedress25 said:


> Brought the pea coat to my tailor and he pinned it with about 1 inch taken off on each side. It looks way better, still has the square-cut look of a pea coat, and will still be large enough so I can comfortably layer underneath. I agree that pea coats usually shouldn't be tailored but I think me having a muscular build and unusual dimensions made it more necessary.


My tailor did exactly the same to my new pea coat last year for the same reasons. Looks fine. With a 10" drop between chest and waist on a 5'7" body, I take similar situations to her often, and she has learned how much to remove from the waist to eliminate folding over and bunching without creating a drastically tailored look.


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## Bjorn (May 2, 2010)

Matt S said:


> That sounds okay. As long as you can comfortably fit a sports coat underneath and still have a little extra room it's good. A square cut for a large person might look more like an A-line cut on a thin person. It reminds me of a woman I saw on the train wearing a large overcoat that made her look really fat. Then she took it off and she had a really large chest with a small waist. A square fit isn't always the most flattering.


...and then you woke up, having overshot your destination with at least 3 stations....


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## helpmedress25 (Aug 26, 2011)

The Sterlingwear Authentic is great but it is too warm for fall weather, for me at least. Im thinking of getting a second pea coat. Can anyone recommend a lighter one that would be suitable for 40-60 degree weather?


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

helpmedress25 said:


> The Sterlingwear Authentic is great but it is too warm for fall weather, for me at least. Im thinking of getting a second pea coat. Can anyone recommend a lighter one that would be suitable for 40-60 degree weather?


This may be better for spring, but it is suitable for your temperature range. And it's on sale https://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCa...olor=NAVY&sort_by=&sectioncolor=&sectionsize=

https://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCa...olor=NAVY&sort_by=&sectioncolor=&sectionsize=


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

That's a misnomer. It seems more like a double breasted blazer.


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

Jovan said:


> That's a misnomer. It seems more like a double breasted blazer.


 You are quite right, shame on me for just looking at the caption and not looking closely at the jacket. The lapels are not those of a pea coat, they are blazer lapels. On the other hand the 6 x 3 button positioning is not that of a blazer, they are positioned as in a pea coat. A mutt perhaps?


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Perhaps... not the good kind either. It would be better if they at least put non-anchor buttons.


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

arkirshner said:


> You are quite right, shame on me for just looking at the caption and not looking closely at the jacket. The lapels are not those of a pea coat, they are blazer lapels. On the other hand the 6 x 3 button positioning is not that of a blazer, they are positioned as in a pea coat. A mutt perhaps?


6x3 is still a classic blazer. It has lapels. Pea coats are 8x4, with the buttons going all the way to the top.


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

Matt S said:


> 6x3 is still a classic blazer. It has lapels. Pea coats are 8x4, with the buttons going all the way to the top.


The peacoat was 8x4, but only until 1945, and it's been 6x3 ever since.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?35824-PEACOAT-DATING

Yes, there are some civilian jackets cut 8x4 and Sterlingwear has one.

The old reefer jackets were 6x3, and there was a short revival of them in the 60s, while similar, they are not peacoats.
(Incidentally, Sator claims all DB jackets should be considered reefers.)

the Brooks Bros jacket has a breast pocket, like a blazer, buttons like a peacoat, lapels like a reefer, button positioning like a peacoat, flap pockets like a blazer (and pre WWI peacoat but not since), and fabric like a blazer. If each element scores a point, the score is Blazer 3, peacoat 2, and reefer 1.*** My point is, the BB jacket is a mutt. At the same time I concede that it may be more blazer than peacoat.

***others may consider other elements and score differently


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

arkirshner said:


> The peacoat was 8x4, but only until 1945, and it's been 6x3 ever since.
> 
> https://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?35824-PEACOAT-DATING
> 
> ...


I was counting the top buttons (the ones that close the neck) as part of the 8x4. The earlier ones were 10x5. The BB piece has lapels like a blazer and does not fasten at the top. The buttoning position is thus not at all like a pea coat. Though the typical blazer is 6x2, 6x3 and 6x1 can just as well be blazers. There was a great thread here showcasing all the different types of blazers on here a while back, with plenty of examples of 6x3 blazers. According to the page you link to: "The only difference between a peacoat and a reefer is the gold buttons." The only thing the BB jacket has in common with the pea coat are the buttons. The shoulders are perhaps more reminiscent of a pea coat than a blazer. But it appears to be strictly a fashion piece since I can't figure out what purpose it is supposed to serve.


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

Matt S said:


> I was counting the top buttons (the ones that close the neck) as part of the 8x4. The earlier ones were 10x5. The BB piece has lapels like a blazer and does not fasten at the top. The buttoning position is thus not at all like a pea coat. Though the typical blazer is 6x2, 6x3 and 6x1 can just as well be blazers. There was a great thread here showcasing all the different types of blazers on here a while back, with plenty of examples of 6x3 blazers. According to the page you link to: "The only difference between a peacoat and a reefer is the gold buttons." The only thing the BB jacket has in common with the pea coat are the buttons. The shoulders are perhaps more reminiscent of a pea coat than a blazer. But it appears to be strictly a fashion piece since I can't figure out what purpose it is supposed to serve.


 As there is no universally accepted taxonomic classification of jackets, we could quibble around the edges forever about exactly where to classify a particular garment, a fruitless exercise indeed. We do agree that the BB jacket is neither fish nor foul, and, as you put it, "fashion piece", is an apt description.


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## helpmedress25 (Aug 26, 2011)

What do you all think of these, or do you have any other suggestions? I'm hoping to find a lighter jacket (possibly a pea coat but not necessarily) for less than $200 that would be ideal for 40-60 degree weather without having to layer beyond a polo/button down





They are having a 25% off sale too


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

helpmedress25 said:


> What do you all think of these, or do you have any other suggestions? I'm hoping to find a lighter jacket (possibly a pea coat but not necessarily) for less than $200 that would be ideal for 40-60 degree weather without having to layer beyond a polo/button down
> 
> They are having a 25% off sale too


The first one, is rated for -20 to 0 degrees Fahrenheit.

The second is not a winter jacket but you might call customer service and ask how it is lined or if the lining is only decorative..


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## zzdocxx (Sep 26, 2011)

OK I'd like to piggyback another question onto this thread, I hope it is OK.

I bought a "car coat" several years back, which reminds me a little of a pea coat.

It is still in my closet, and I had the same question in my mind as to whether or not it ought to be tailored.

? ? ?


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

zzdocxx said:


> OK I'd like to piggyback another question onto this thread, I hope it is OK.
> 
> I bought a "car coat" several years back, which reminds me a little of a pea coat.
> 
> ...


I assume by tailoring you mean waist suppression.
Depends on the shoulders and length. For example a British covert coat or chesterfield with well defined shoulders is designed for waist supression. A raglan shoulder coat is not. If your coat has little or no shoulder padding it probably should be left to hang straight down.


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## helpmedress25 (Aug 26, 2011)

Thanks, I will give them a call.

Are there any other brands you recommend I look into? I'm 22 years old and looking for something classic and cool while still being professional.


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## helpmedress25 (Aug 26, 2011)

I went with the Jcrew authentic (in charcoal https://www.jcrew.com/mens_category/outerwear/wool/PRDOVR~87195/87195.jsp ). I didn't get thinsulate because I was looking for an in-between jacket (40-60 degrees) and i was worried thinsulate would be too warm. I figure the sterlingwear will be perfect for < 40 degree weather. Officially I've become a pea coat addict


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

J. Crew one looks nice with the throat latch and all. However, it like almost every commercial fashion pea coat never gets the collar and lapel shape correct. That's half the appeal of authentic issue for me.


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