# The Shirt Jacket: How do You Dress Well . . . .



## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

when you're not dressed up?

So often I see young men who are attempting to dress better (Perhaps for the first time.) focus on wearing suits and dress shoes as if that's the only alternative to T-shirts, shorts and flip-flops. Suits and dress shoes and all that go with them are great! But there's a whole continuum of formality between those two extremes, and not exploring those is a shame, because there is an awful lot of pleasure and useful comfort in that middle ground.

One of my favorite articles of clothing is the shirt jacket. Not seen too often, when it is, it is usually made and worn as an ultra casual article of clothing over jeans or khakis, and with a very informal shirt. And that's fine, but the shirt jacket can actually be a whole lot more. To begin with, it can be made from finer cloth, even cashmere, and while that too can look great with informal shirts, it can also be worn with a shirt and tie to offer a more relaxed variation to tailored jackets when the occasion and mood calls for it.

This musing originated while enjoying a blog named Han Seung Goo. Other than knowing that its origin is Asian I am embarrassed to say I know nothing of it. Judging by the material I have to wonder if it's by a shirtmaker and/or tailor. In the two photos attached I think the shirt jacket looks great made up with exactly the right details with exactly the right fit in fine quality checked wool cloth equally suitable for a sport jacket. The subject chose to pair it with a dress shirt and dressy tie, but it would look just as good with a more casual shirt and wool tie, turtleneck, or open neck shirt with an ascot or neckerchief.

But what is particularly instructive is that it illustrates a level of formality right below that occupied by a tailored sport jacket, and that a shirt jacket can be worn exactly the same way to offer a slightly more relaxed, informal, but still smart alternative to ultra-casual sportswear.

https://royal1980.tumblr.com/archive


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

It would be nice if navy blazer shirt-jackets with unflapped patch pockets were common.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

delicious_scent said:


> It would be nice if navy blazer shirt-jackets with unflapped patch pockets were common.


This one appears to be without pockets at all. I was mistaken when I said I preferred exactly as is. While I find the gathering at the waist, either from drawstring or elastic nice, I'd prefer it with a breast pocket, and if it also had the pockets you describe, I'd enjoy that very well also.

As it happens I have a pretty nice navy alpaca shirt jacket, and while it does have a breast pocket, not the lower ones.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Flanderian said:


> This one appears to be without pockets at all. I was mistaken when I said I preferred exactly as is. While I find the gathering at the waist, either from drawstring or elastic nice, I'd prefer it with a breast pocket, and if it also had the pockets you describe, I'd enjoy that very well also.
> 
> As it happens I have a pretty nice navy alpaca shirt jacket, and while it does have a breast pocket, not the lower ones.


I didn't even notice that, or the lack of the breast pocket. I agree that I'd prefer both on there.

I also just noticed that the lapels are pretty funky and enormous, the jacket reminds me more of some kind of a trench coat than a shirt jacket.

Your shirt jacket sounds pretty neat, can you post pictures of it?


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

delicious_scent said:


> I also just noticed that the lapels are pretty funky and enormous, the jacket reminds me more of some kind of a trench coat than a shirt jacket.


I feel differently: IMO, a shirt jacket should have a shirt collar, as this one does, not a jacket collar. While the collar may be slightly large, it's pretty much in proportion to the rest of the jacket. The lapels do look very wide, but they're not really lapels, rather just the straight vertical placket of the shirt beneath the collar, and appear as they do because they're folded back. Left to hang on their own, or buttoned, and there'd be none of that.



delicious_scent said:


> Your shirt jacket sounds pretty neat, can you post pictures of it?


Thank you! No, sorry I do not. Lacking digi I can spare the world any further assault! :biggrin:

Edit: I might add that my fantasy shirt jacket employs both patch breast and side pockets without flaps. And the cut would slightly over-sized and drapey as it appears here. But I'd also like to give a touch of waist, but rather than drawstring or elastic used here, I'd prefer a sewn half-belt at the back.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Flanderian said:


> I feel differently: IMO, a shirt jacket should have a shirt collar, as this one does, not a jacket collar. While the collar may be slightly large, it's pretty much in proportion to the rest of the jacket. The lapels do look very wide, but they're not really lapels, rather just the straight vertical placket of the shirt beneath the collar, and appear as they do because they're folded back. Left to hang on their own, or buttoned, and there'd be none of that.
> 
> Thank you! No, sorry I do not. Lacking digi I can spare the world any further assault! :biggrin:
> 
> Edit: I might add that my fantasy shirt jacket employs both patch breast and side pockets without flaps. And the cut would slightly over-sized and drapey as it appears here. But I'd also like to give a touch of waist, but rather than drawstring or elastic used here, I'd prefer a sewn half-belt at the back.


Hmm, do you have pictures of how something like in the OP would look while buttoned?


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Pendleton's Topster ( of sainted memory) is essentially a shirt jacket. Safariana qualify, IMO. Additionally, Woolrich and Bean have made them in the past and likely will again as the fashion wheel turns eternally. But, gentlemen, let us remember that they are _casual _wear! As Flanderian clearly points out, these are not garments for the iGent but for those who wish to appear civilized when not engaged in serious business or marrying off offspring and grandchildren. So let us avoid making judgments based on what we would expect Huntsman or Chipp2 to craft for arguments before the bench or dinner at the Four Seasons. I think I'll wear one of mine to the wine bar for jazz after dinner this evening.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Just found one on Luxire, 4-button though


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

delicious_scent said:


> Hmm, do you have pictures of how something like in the OP would look while buttoned?


Only bad one's I'm afraid, but I'll have to go with what I have. Unfortunately the one from Luxire below is antithetical to what I consider desirable in a shirt jacket. It's very fitted and highly tailored, and a shirt jacket should be slightly over-sized and drapey, not fitted. At it's essence, *a shirt jacket is just a big shirt.* It's its cloth and making that imparts its elegance.

Unfortunately, when I went looking for the examples for which you asked, most of them were being worn much too tightly which destroys their effect. Ironically, while just work wear and made from plebian materials with indifferent workmanship, these actually come closest to depicting the answers to your request.

Unbuttoned -

And buttoned -










Now if you can imagine them made of good stuff, with the details we discussed rather than double breast pockets, sleeves too long, etc. they actually might give you a fair of idea of what a shirt jacket should look like. :hidden:

Edit: Please see post below in response to Oldsarge for a couple better examples of decent shirt jackets. :thumbs-up:



delicious_scent said:


> Just found one on Luxire, 4-button though


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Oldsarge said:


> Pendleton's Topster ( of sainted memory) is essentially a shirt jacket. Safariana qualify, IMO. Additionally, Woolrich and Bean have made them in the past and likely will again as the fashion wheel turns eternally. But, gentlemen, let us remember that they are _casual _wear! As Flanderian clearly points out, these are not garments for the iGent but for those who wish to appear civilized when not engaged in serious business or marrying off offspring and grandchildren. So let us avoid making judgments based on what we would expect Huntsman or Chipp2 to craft for arguments before the bench or dinner at the Four Seasons. I think I'll wear one of mine to the wine bar for jazz after dinner this evening.


More civilized versions can be found, but as I just illustrated in my response above, they're hard to find, particularly at the moment as you point out. A couple of few years ago, Maus and Hoffman had a beauty in camels hair, and priced accordingly. And as I respond to you I realize I should have checked there first as they have a couple rather nice examples of their kind that might prove more helpful to DS than those I've already posted.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Alright, yes, I understand your idealized version of the shirt-jacket now. I was thinking from the perspective of "unconstructed sports coat with open patch pockets" initially.

Locally, I see a lot of people wear *shirts* as shirt-jackets. That is, wear an OCBD or other type of button-down fully unbuttoned, and wear a t-shirt(sometimes graphic tee) underneath. Red plaid look is immensely popular here as well. I don't like any of the looks I just described.

I think you nailed it by saying "Not seen too often, when it is, it is usually made and worn as an ultra casual article of clothing over jeans or khakis, and with a very informal shirt. And that's fine, but the shirt jacket can actually be a whole lot more."

My daily attire is ultra casual, so I definitely gravitate towards the M-65 Field/Fatigue Jackets as "shirt-jackets". I think this is a nice look, taken from "Nordic Fit" blog.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

delicious_scent said:


> Alright, yes, I understand your idealized version of the shirt-jacket now. I was thinking from the perspective of "unconstructed sports coat with open patch pockets" initially.
> 
> Locally, I see a lot of people wear *shirts* as shirt-jackets. That is, wear an OCBD or other type of button-down fully unbuttoned, and wear a t-shirt(sometimes graphic tee) underneath. Red plaid look is immensely popular here as well. I don't like any of the looks I just described.
> 
> ...


Not my style, but I think that's a sharp looking piece of casual clothing.

And it's not necessarily an issue of either/or but rather selecting something with the appropriate level of formality for its purpose and one's preference. I also have purely casual shirt jackets including a heavy wale corduroy in wine and a plaid Pendelton shirt jacket with double flapped breast pockets and elbow patches. Both are obviously casual and would look rather out of place with a dress shirt and dressy tie. Might be able to stretch them to a denim shirt and wool knit tie though.
Which I will have to do! :happy:


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Flanderian said:


> Not my style, but I think that's a sharp looking piece of casual clothing.
> 
> And it's not necessarily an issue of either/or but rather selecting something with the appropriate level of formality for its purpose and one's preference. I also have purely casual shirt jackets including a heavy wale corduroy in wine and a plaid Pendelton shirt jacket with double flapped breast pockets and elbow patches. Both are obviously casual and would look rather out of place with a dress shirt and dressy tie. Might be able to stretch them to a denim shirt and wool knit tie though.
> Which I will have to do! :happy:


That corduroy shirt jacket in wine sounds great, especially with the denim shirt and a knit tie. Looks like I'll have to raid your wardrobe .

All this talk of shirt-jackets has reminded me of safari jackets as well, I'll have to be on the look out for them.


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## Andy (Aug 25, 2002)

I have a lot of shirt jackets! Wearing one now on the trip.


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## Andy (Aug 25, 2002)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^



Oldsarge said:


> Pendleton's Topster ( of sainted memory) is essentially a shirt jacket. Safariana qualify, IMO. Additionally, Woolrich and Bean have made them in the past and likely will again as the fashion wheel turns eternally. But, gentlemen, let us remember that they are _casual _wear! As Flanderian clearly points out, these are not garments for the iGent but for those who wish to appear civilized when not engaged in serious business or marrying off offspring and grandchildren. So let us avoid making judgments based on what we would expect Huntsman or Chipp2 to craft for arguments before the bench or dinner at the Four Seasons. I think I'll wear one of mine to the wine bar for jazz after dinner this evening.


Indeed Pendleton's Board Shirts serve well as (IMHO) rather handsome shirt jackets. Wish they offered them in somewhat lighter weight fabrics. I was able to wear my Blackwatch Board Shirt but one time this past winter.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Ah, those were the days!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

delicious_scent said:


> That corduroy shirt jacket in wine sounds great, especially with the denim shirt and a knit tie. Looks like I'll have to raid your wardrobe .
> 
> All this talk of shirt-jackets has reminded me of safari jackets as well, I'll have to be on the look out for them.


You might want to consider these if the cut is acceptable. I have two, in different colors. They're modestly priced, authentic *very rustic*, but smart. They're full cut and boxy, exactly as a bush jacket should be for functionality and, IMHO, style. Their belt gives them the waist.



Andy said:


> I have a lot of shirt jackets! Wearing one now on the trip.


:thumbs-up: :thumbs-up: :thumbs-up:



eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> 
> Indeed Pendleton's Board Shirts serve well as (IMHO) rather handsome shirt jackets. Wish they offered them in somewhat lighter weight fabrics. I was able to wear my Blackwatch Board Shirt but one time this past winter.


Get thee hither to Maus and Hoffman, one of those $500 shirt jackets has your name on it!


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## paxonus (Dec 26, 2016)

The Teba jacket fits the bill for me:

https://dieworkwear.com/post/130758908669/the-slouchy-spanish-teba


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Flanderian said:


> You might want to consider these if the cut is acceptable. I have two, in different colors. They're modestly priced, authentic *very rustic*, but smart. They're full cut and boxy, exactly as a bush jacket should be for functionality and, IMHO, style. Their belt gives them the waist.


This is exactly what I had in mind!

Should I just order in my usual size then, based on their chart? My chest is 36 inches, and that falls into their range of "small".

The cut looks fine to me, the belted waist makes it even better. How are the shoulders and sleeves though? I don't mind boxy, just as long as it's not sloppy or saggy.

Do seem to be sold out for Khaki and Stone though in small. I can't decide between the two either. 


paxonus said:


> The Teba jacket fits the bill for me:
> 
> https://dieworkwear.com/post/130758908669/the-slouchy-spanish-teba


I love everything about this.


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## ran23 (Dec 11, 2014)

I picked up a Banana Republic khaki shirt jacket for summer. Need to iron it next time. With polo and khakis, it is comfortable for Spring so far.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

delicious_scent said:


> This is exactly what I had in mind!
> 
> Should I just order in my usual size then, based on their chart? My chest is 36 inches, and that falls into their range of "small".
> 
> ...


Give them a little while. Most people who shop with them (I think) are actually planning safaris of one sort or another and that season is just beginning so the would be bwanas are already kitted out. I can guarantee you that by next January when Safari Club International has their convention in Vegas that Tag will be fully stocked.


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## MTJim (Dec 20, 2012)

I have a wool CPO jacket that I'm considering sending off to have replicated using some light and mid-weight tweed fabric. I find the shirt/jacket style perfect for active outings followed by time at the cafe or pub. I know the CPO is on the informal side of what you're looking for, but it works well for me.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

delicious_scent said:


> This is exactly what I had in mind!
> 
> Should I just order in my usual size then, based on their chart? My chest is 36 inches, and that falls into their range of "small".
> 
> ...


Glad it might be useful. Fit is very subjective, and I prefer what I think of as roomy, but depending upon your preferences you might think sloppy. But I don't think it is, there's enough room, but not tons if you follow their sizing recommendations. Order the size that includes what your size would be in a tailored jacket. The shoulders are adequate but not overly broad. The jackets are pre-washed so shrinkage shouldn't be an issue.

The problem is we're all built so differently. I'm thick bodied with short arms and legs. Anything I buy OTR is likely to have sleeves too long. These jackets have both their sleeve and jacket length proportioned according to size. But since I either flip or fold the cuffs up anyway, it's a non-issue.

Of course, you can always try on via mail and order two sizes, return the reject and keep the one that fits best.

I have both the stone color and the olive. Looks good in both, IMO. The stone is a bit lighter than it appears on my monitor, almost an off-white. The olive is medium-dark, but a nice color if you can wear it and have things it will complement.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

MTJim said:


> I have a wool CPO jacket that I'm considering sending off to have replicated using some light and mid-weight tweed fabric. I find the shirt/jacket style perfect for active outings followed by time at the cafe or pub. I know the CPO is on the informal side of what you're looking for, but it works well for me.


I think different versions of shirt jackets fit differing levels of formality, and I like both. And if you have an authentic CPO shirt, IMO, you have one of the most handsome and classic variants ever designed. :thumbs-up:

The real deal -










Edit: The shirt pictured above was made by Fidelity which I believe is an official contractor and makes for the USN. Plenty of sources, but his one popped up when I Googled it -


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Indeed. If I ever come across one of those while wandering the thrift stores of Portland (in my size, naturally) I will be on it like a duck on a junebug!


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Upscale casual, IMO.


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## orange fury (Dec 8, 2013)

I've always considered stuff like the Pendleton Board Shirt to be a "shirt jac". I use that and the LL Bean chamois shirts for the same function, usually open over an ocbd


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Oldsarge said:


> Give them a little while. Most people who shop with them (I think) are actually planning safaris of one sort or another and that season is just beginning so the would be bwanas are already kitted out. I can guarantee you that by next January when Safari Club International has their convention in Vegas that Tag will be fully stocked.


Understood. Yes, browsing the rest of the website shows that is definitely their target audience.


Flanderian said:


> Glad it might be useful. Fit is very subjective, and I prefer what I think of as roomy, but depending upon your preferences you might think sloppy. But I don't think it is, there's enough room, but not tons if you follow their sizing recommendations. Order the size that includes what your size would be in a tailored jacket. The shoulders are adequate but not overly broad. The jackets are pre-washed so shrinkage shouldn't be an issue.
> 
> The problem is we're all built so differently. I'm thick bodied with short arms and legs. Anything I buy OTR is likely to have sleeves too long. These jackets have both their sleeve and jacket length proportioned according to size. But since I either flip or fold the cuffs up anyway, it's a non-issue.
> 
> ...


Gotcha. I'm mostly of average proportion, with one very slopey shoulder, and I'm built like a beanpole.

As long as the shoulder seams don't sag from being too big, then I will be fine with the cut, I've had that issue lots with shirts.

They don't have anything smaller than a small, and you said it fits big. Medium sounds like it will definitely be too big, so small it is.

Hmm, I was looking at olive as well, it would definitely fit a niche in my wardrobe that nothing else occupies, yet stone looks nicer to my eye. I've ruled out khaki.

Since you said the stone is closer to an off-white, do you think it would work with this shade of pants, or is it too similiar?


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

delicious_scent said:


> Understood. Yes, browsing the rest of the website shows that is definitely their target audience.
> 
> Gotcha. I'm mostly of average proportion, with one very slopey shoulder, and I'm built like a beanpole.
> 
> ...


I wear mine with pants of a very similar, and an even lighter khaki color, and think they both look fine.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Oldsarge said:


> Give them a little while. Most people who shop with them (I think) are actually planning safaris of one sort or another and that season is just beginning so the would be bwanas are already kitted out. I can guarantee you that by next January when Safari Club International has their convention in Vegas that Tag will be fully stocked.





Flanderian said:


> Glad it might be useful. Fit is very subjective, and I prefer what I think of as roomy, but depending upon your preferences you might think sloppy. But I don't think it is, there's enough room, but not tons if you follow their sizing recommendations. Order the size that includes what your size would be in a tailored jacket. The shoulders are adequate but not overly broad. The jackets are pre-washed so shrinkage shouldn't be an issue.
> 
> The problem is we're all built so differently. I'm thick bodied with short arms and legs. Anything I buy OTR is likely to have sleeves too long. These jackets have both their sleeve and jacket length proportioned according to size. But since I either flip or fold the cuffs up anyway, it's a non-issue.
> 
> ...





Flanderian said:


> I wear mine with pants of a very similar, and an even lighter khaki color, and think they both look fine.


Perfect, thank you.


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## Howard (Dec 7, 2004)

What do you wear that goes with a shirt jacket?


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Chinos, polos, well-maintained denim for warmer weather. Corduroy, OCBD's and moleskin for cooler.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Howard said:


> What do you wear that goes with a shirt jacket?


Pants.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Oldsarge said:


> Chinos, polos, well-maintained denim for warmer weather. Corduroy, OCBD's and moleskin for cooler.


All excellent options, IMO.

But in addition, with dressier shirt jackets quality, tailored woo slacks can be great to wear at the dressier/more formal mode for wearing a shirt jacket. Hijacking DS's fine photo from another thread below we'll assume the scarf being worn isn't an ascot (Though it well may be.) but a neckerchief. While in the top photo the character is seen waist up with a tailored jacket on, but what if instead it was a nicely made shirt jacket of fine wool? I think it'd look pretty nice.










I wear two of my shirt jackets with dress trousers as well as those mentioned here. Both the navy alpaca which has bit of the feel of a navy blazer, and giant-waled wine corduroy can look rather nice with them. For example, I have a pair of black and white glen plaid that I like pair with the navy shirt jacket, a pale pink pinpoint oxford shirt and lighter navy silk ascot with white spots.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

delicious_scent said:


> Perfect, thank you.


You're quite welcome!

BTW, here's Chuck's bush jacket. So you'll find you're in sound company!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

B&Tailor style. Navy linen.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> You're quite welcome!
> 
> BTW, here's Chuck's bush jacket. So you'll find you're in sound company!


Actually that's not a bad look; not a bad look at all! I think I just might want to dress just like the Royal Chuck. Although, given the age of that photo, that particular jacket design may not still be available().


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## tda003 (Aug 16, 2009)

^ you can actually still find them, but you have to wear out Google's search engine.. I like the look very much although I'm not sure where to wear safari clothes any more. They don't even wear them on safaris these days and good luck finding a double brimmed safari hat a la Stewart Granger as Alan Quatermain in "King Solomon's Mines". I do, however, own a helluva Herbert Johnson "Bombay bowler" should the need arise.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> Actually that's not a bad look; not a bad look at all! I think* I just might want to dress just like the Royal Chuck.* Although, given the age of that photo, that particular jacket design may not still be available().


It takes one to know one! 

I was advising member DS as to sources, and mentioned I had purchased this. While it looks darker on their website, the one sold to me is very similar to the photo below. Without the royal pedigree, it is fairly inexpensive in price and make, but Oldsarge approved for authenticity.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^
Thanks for the link. As to colors, did you go with the Khaki or the Stone hue(s). I suspect the khaki would prove most versatile and with the fabric being a 5.5 oz cotton it should prove quite wearable in our local climate. :thumbs-up:


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> Thanks for the link. As to colors, did you go with the Khaki or the Stone hue(s). I suspect the khaki would prove most versatile and with the fabric being a 5.5 oz cotton it should prove quite wearable in our local climate. :thumbs-up:


I have one in both the stone color above, and another in olive. It's pretty light weight and inexpensively made. The cloth is a poplin that is not too tightly woven, but of tightly spun cotton yarn. Wears fairly cool, but the tightly spun yarn helps with wrinkle resistance, and it should help it wear OK as well.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^
Priced at a very reasonable $69, even if I am only able to wear the jacket a couple times a year, it will be well worth it! It should index in very nicely with my fishing shirts and Barong/guayabera shirts I've been wearing lately. Thanks muck for the info.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> Priced at a very reasonable $69, even if I am only able to wear the jacket a couple times a year, it will be well worth it! It should index in very nicely with my fishing shirts and Barong/guayabera shirts I've been wearing lately. Thanks muck for the info.


I would think it would do well! :thumbs-up:


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## 16412 (Apr 1, 2005)

Flanderian said:


>


This one looks better than the one the crown is wearing. The pockets look better. It is missing the dart from chest to neck for chest shape. And the price! Who can argue with that? To make one the cloth and trimmings might cost the. Making up is worth money, too. Although, you can make fitting changes. It is a very nice garment, and the price is hard to beat.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Another nice example of a shirt jacket. The left hand page, right hand figure. And worn with a scarf to boot. I realize that this is an old illustration, but depending upon your preferences, it can easily be updated to your preferences, or left as-is, if it's good to go.


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## paxonus (Dec 26, 2016)

Something nice in linen:


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Very nice, indeed. Just the ticket for summer evenings. I may have to investigate further.


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## Howard (Dec 7, 2004)

Flanderian said:


> It takes one to know one!
> 
> I was advising member DS as to sources, and mentioned I had purchased this. While it looks darker on their website, the one sold to me is very similar to the photo below. Without the royal pedigree, it is fairly inexpensive in price and make, but Oldsarge approved for authenticity.


That looks like a strait jacket.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Straight jackets don't have openings in front, Howard, and the ends of the sleeves are closed.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

paxonus said:


> Something nice in linen:


Not bad!



Howard said:


> That looks like a strait jacket.


It can't be, Howard, it's worn right side up!


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## Howard (Dec 7, 2004)

Flanderian said:


> Not bad!
> 
> It can't be, Howard, it's worn right side up!


Sorry Flanders, maybe I was thinking of something else, I forgot straight jackets don't have buttons.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Flanderian, is this the colour stone for the Tag jacket?


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

delicious_scent said:


> Flanderian, is this the colour stone for the Tag jacket?


If you're asking if the color they call "stone," this one in the photo looks a bit darker, though it's difficult to tell for certain due to differences in lighting and photography.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Flanderian said:


> If you're asking if the color they call "stone," this one in the photo looks a bit darker, though it's difficult to tell for certain due to differences in lighting and photography.


Gotcha. I'll go for olive then.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Olive is a good choice for casual wear in any case and it actually has become the more common color for those on safari. That's what I would do.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

The wife assures me that she can alter the TAG Jacket to achieve a more convenient design and to present a more contemporary look by redoing it with a modified half-belt design, eliminating the buckle (I think). Making the purchase even better, it appears she is going to buy me the jacket as a gift. What a gal! :thumbs-up:


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

delicious_scent said:


> Gotcha. I'll go for olive then.


The first one I bought is olive. I find it an attractive and versatile shade. :thumbs-up:


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

eagle2250 said:


> The wife assures me that she can alter the TAG Jacket to achieve a more convenient design and to present a more contemporary look by redoing it with a modified half-belt design, eliminating the buckle (I think). Making the purchase even better, it appears she is going to buy me the jacket as a gift. What a gal! :thumbs-up:


That would certainly be my choice. A full belt I find annoying.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

*NOTE TO ANY PURCHASERS OF THE TAG BUSH JACKET!*

The instructions that come with the jacket say to launder it before wearing, even though the cloth is pre-washed and pre-shrunk, evidently to make absolutely certain there is never any dye transfer. I did this with both of my jackets and machine washing and machine drying worked great, no shrinkage. But the first time I did manage to chip one of the nice horn buttons in the dryer, which they kindly sent me a replacement for without charge. The second time I purchased one, I buttoned it and turned it inside out before washing and drying. Seems to work well, prevented any possibility of damaging a button.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Flanderian said:


> *NOTE TO ANY PURCHASERS OF THE TAG BUSH JACKET!*
> 
> The instructions that come with the jacket say to launder it before wearing, even though the cloth is pre-washed and pre-shrunk, evidently to make absolutely certain there is never any dye transfer. I did this with both of my jackets and machine washing and machine drying worked great, no shrinkage. But the first time I did manage to chip one of the nice horn buttons in the dryer, which they kindly sent me a replacement for without charge. The second time I purchased one, I buttoned it and turned it inside out before washing and drying. Seems to work well, prevented any possibility of damaging a button.


Will do! Although I usually never toss anything in the dryer with a collar. Machine-wash and hang-dry seems to work.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

delicious_scent said:


> Will do! Although I usually never toss anything in the dryer with a collar. Machine-wash and hang-dry seems to work.


You can certainly do as you prefer, but the only reason not to use a dryer is to avoid shrinkage, and in this instance, that's a non-issue. I find my stuff comes out of the dryer fluffy (I launder with liquid Downey Free.) and with far less wrinkling then anything line dried can be.

The chipped button is really an anomaly, to the extent I've never before had it happen.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Flanderian said:


> You can certainly do as you prefer, but the only reason not to use a dryer is to avoid shrinkage, and in this instance, that's a non-issue. I find my stuff comes out of the dryer fluffy (I launder with liquid Downey Free.) and with far less wrinkling then anything line dried can be.
> 
> The chipped button is really an anomaly, to the extent I've never before had it happen.


Yes, shrinkage is what I'm paranoid of. After unintentionally shrinking an OCBD an entire size in the dryer, I've been on the side of caution. Wrinkling and less fluffiness is a small price to pay IMO.

Although it's good to know there will be no shrinkage at all if I do decide to toss this jacket in the dryer.


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## Claybuster (Aug 29, 2007)

Part of me understands the concept of a "shirt jacket" in more casual settings. But, if I am going to put on a tie, dress shirt and trousers, I might as well go ahead and wear a regular sport coat. However, that would just be my preference, YMMV.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

I think under those circumstances, the only reason for going with a shirtjack would be because it weighs less and is cooler. If the shirtjack is heavy, then you are absolutely correct.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Claybuster said:


> Part of me understands the concept of a "shirt jacket" in more casual settings. But, if I am going to put on a tie, dress shirt and trousers, I might as well go ahead and wear a regular sport coat. However, that would just be my preference, YMMV.


And I understand that would be the preference of many. And that's always a handsome alternative. But I like the added comfort and flexibility of nuance afforded by a shirt jacket, possibly with a tie. Frankly, in my life circumstances I have little absolute need to wear a tie unless someone passes away or gets married. (And, sadly, at my age the likelihood of the former is much greater.) But I have many ties of which I am inordinately fond. Wearing one with a shirt jacket is comfortable even sitting around my home.


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## paxonus (Dec 26, 2016)

Another one to consider:


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## Claybuster (Aug 29, 2007)

Flanderian said:


> And I understand that would be the preference of many. And that's always a handsome alternative. But I like the added comfort and flexibility of nuance afforded by a shirt jacket, possibly with a tie. Frankly, in my life circumstances I have little absolute need to wear a tie unless someone passes away or gets married. (And, sadly, at my age the likelihood of the former is much greater.) But I have many ties of which I am inordinately fond. Wearing one with a shirt jacket is comfortable even sitting around my home.


:thumbs-up:


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## Fred G. Unn (Jul 12, 2011)

paxonus said:


> The Teba jacket fits the bill for me:
> https://dieworkwear.com/post/130758908669/the-slouchy-spanish-teba





delicious_scent said:


> I love everything about this.


I have this Justo Gimeno and really like it:









I'm assuming linking to the other forum is bad form, but if you go there and search for Justo Gimeno, Spoo has a bunch of styles and sizes still available for $250, much better than the $695 the Armoury is charging.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Fred G. Unn said:


> I have this Justo Gimeno and really like it:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Another variant, and a handsome one I feel! :thumbs-up:


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Got the TAG Jacket.

PROS: It fits great. It is a comfortably loose fit, especially on the sleeves(just more than I'm used to), but it looks good. Fabric weight is also perfect for summer and spring, which is exactly what I wanted. The buttons also look and feel nice.

CONS: The construction of the jacket is sloppy. The collar is crooked if fully buttoned, and the interior stitching is uneven and there are loose threads. The belt is also not actually attached to the jacket like I thought it was. Website could also use more accurate pictures in terms of colour.

@Flanderian have you had any of the above issues? How about the jacket holding up long term?

The belt is also definitely inconvenient. I'm wondering if I should get the belt stitched on permanently, and add a third belt loop, or try out east's recommendation for adding a half belt via my tailor, if possible.

Is it possible to reinforce the seams, or would the entire sleeve have to be removed? They are weakest at the armpits.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

delicious_scent said:


> Got the TAG Jacket.
> 
> PROS: It fits great. It is a comfortably loose fit, especially on the sleeves(just more than I'm used to), but it looks good. Fabric weight is also perfect for summer and spring, which is exactly what I wanted. The buttons also look and feel nice.
> 
> ...


I've had no problems with the jackets I've purchased other than my referenced mishap with chipping a button. If I have in anyway contributed to your misapprehension concerning its nature, I apologize. It's an inexpensive, utilitarian jacket that is manufactured in Africa I believe, and I suspect those doing the making may not be among the most skilled seamstresses.

The stitching on the interior jacket does have a crude appearance, but within the context of a very lightweight garment intended for rough wear, I've found it to be sturdy and had no problems with it. And despite the cloth itself also being light weight, I've found it study as well. Essentially, it's work wear.

A separate belt is standard to traditional bush jacket designs, and this particular jacket is true to that tradition. And it happens to be what I prefer.

I've not attempted to button the top button on the jacket, so I can't offer an opinion. Though I can't think of any occasion when I would want to. I can say that the whole jacket needs a good ironing, which I did before trying mine on, which does civilize it to some extent. And I made sure that mine are sized large enough so I wouldn't expect it to fit like a tailored shirt. As mentioned, I laundered mine as instructed and gave it another good ironing. When I launder things, I use Downey Free liquid fabric softner. That makes the garment much easier to iron, and improves the finished result. That civilized things quite a bit.

But bottom line is it's a $69 piece of work wear, and it's unrefined. If I had paid $200, I would be quite disappointed, but for $69 it fits my style rather well.

This guy never worried about ragged seams! 










Get your swagger on!










Channel your inner Stuart Granger! :biggrin:


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Lucido said:


> Another, not quite as well known manufacturer of Teba jackets is the Toledo based Lopez Aragon. They do a slightly updated cut that keeps the shirt cuffs and ultra soft construction but adds side vents, open quarters and three, rather than four buttons. I have one in the works that should be with me in a few weeks. €360 for MTM in a bottle green Drago hopsack,


Wow! That's a beautiful jacket! Love the color too.

I've forgotten the story behind the Teba. Was it originally worn for hunting? By farmers? It looks as if it might have had very simple and practical country origins.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

No need to apologize Flanderian, you helped me quite a bit for posting a safari jacket that caught my eye. I had found other ones at varying price ranges, but they didn't look that great to me, or were too similiar to my fatigue jacket.

I have no doubt that the final total of $145 CAD on my end made me a lot more scrutinous and anal than I would have been if I paid $70!

If it is sturdy long-term, then my worries are definitely a lot more at ease.

Indeed on buttoning the top button, was just something I noticed. I will also iron it as you said.
edit: oops, I also somehow missed the belt loops at the sides of the waist attached to the jacket :hidden:, this makes the belt a lot more useful. 


Flanderian said:


> I've had no problems with the jackets I've purchased other than my referenced mishap with chipping a button. If I have in anyway contributed to your misapprehension concerning its nature, I apologize. It's an inexpensive, utilitarian jacket that is manufactured in Africa I believe, and I suspect those doing the making may not be among the most skilled seamstresses.
> 
> The stitching on the interior jacket does have a crude appearance, but within the context of a very lightweight garment intended for rough wear, I've found it to be sturdy and had no problems with it. And despite the cloth itself also being light weight, I've found it study as well. Essentially, it's work wear.
> 
> ...


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^delicious_scent:
My TAG Safari Shirt/Jacket was delivered to our front door on Wednesday of this week. For the price paid, it strikes me as reasonably well made. The sleeves are a tad too long, but I just checked the collar, when the jacket is fully buttoned and mine doesn't appear crooked. As you mentioned the belt is seperate, but my jacket presently hangs in the wife's sewing room for her to alter the jacket construction to something along the lines of a half belt design, by stitching the belt to the jacket and (I think) eliminating the buckle. As has been mentioned, the jacket is made of shirt weight cloth, but it does give the impression of being rather sturdily made. Once the alterations are complete, my intent is to wear the garment more as a shirt, rather than as a jacket. Hope you enjoy yours as much as I intend to enjoy mine. Thanks again member Flanderian for the link to the source site. :thumbs-up:


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## paxonus (Dec 26, 2016)

If anyone is interested, there is a vintage Banana Republic safari jacket up on Ebay that is in great shape in a size 38. I'd buy it, but it just isn't my style:


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

paxonus said:


> If anyone is interested, there is a vintage Banana Republic safari jacket up on Ebay that is in great shape in a size 38. I'd buy it, but it just isn't my style:


I agree on all counts. Looks new. I'd think it just the ticket for anyone a size 38.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

For a slim chap it would be the bee's knees. A reminder of a once-proud marque now sadly gone downhill.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

eagle2250 said:


> ^^delicious_scent:
> My TAG Safari Shirt/Jacket was delivered to our front door on Wednesday of this week. For the price paid, it strikes me as reasonably well made. The sleeves are a tad too long, but I just checked the collar, when the jacket is fully buttoned and mine doesn't appear crooked. As you mentioned the belt is seperate, but my jacket presently hangs in the wife's sewing room for her to alter the jacket construction to something along the lines of a half belt design, by stitching the belt to the jacket and (I think) eliminating the buckle. As has been mentioned, the jacket is made of shirt weight cloth, but it does give the impression of being rather sturdily made. Once the alterations are complete, my intent is to wear the garment more as a shirt, rather than as a jacket. Hope you enjoy yours as much as I intend to enjoy mine. Thanks again member Flanderian for the link to the source site. :thumbs-up:


I hope I enjoy it as well east, cheers! Do post pictures of the finished jacket if you can.


paxonus said:


> If anyone is interested, there is a vintage Banana Republic safari jacket up on Ebay that is in great shape in a size 38. I'd buy it, but it just isn't my style:


veeery tempting to buy, especially considering it's in my size.


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## paxonus (Dec 26, 2016)

This is about the most unusual one I have ever seen:


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

paxonus said:


> This is about the most unusual one I have ever seen:


Unusual outside of a commercial kitchen?

Certainly!

Desirable?

Sorry, not so much.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Fun post on safari jackets. Some key points below, discussed already throughout this thread.

https://dieworkwear.com/post/130344468109/a-cool-weather-safari-jacket

"One was constructed from linen, another from cotton, and a third, surprisingly, from a hefty cashmere. Together, they represented how you could wear the style three seasons out of the year."

"The key to making these look good, I think, is to have the garment styled more like a jacket than a shirt (which shirt jackets like these can lean either way). That means a slightly slouchier fit, rather than something overly tailored, and details such as bigger buttons at the front, bellow pockets on the hips, and - possibly - even a separate side body panel, so that the jacket has a bit more shaping. "

"The nice thing about* shirt jackets is that, since there's no interior construction, bespoke pieces are much more affordable than other kinds of tailored clothing (think, something around $750, which isn't inexpensive, but a far cry from the ~$2,500 tailors charge for bespoke sport coats).* You do need a custom shirtmaker who already has your pattern, however. If he or she has to create one from scratch, expect to pay a few hundred dollars more. "

Now I'm veeery tempted to get a navy linen safari jacket made for me considering the bolded. I think it would be even more versatile to me than a navy blazer. I don't even get to wear that one often at all, and this one is also easily dressed up or down.

More cool pictures for inspiration


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Lucido said:


> Thank you kindly. The origin story varies, with some claiming it was first made on Savile Row and then copied by the Spanish, others that it was designed by a Spanish tailor. We do know that it became associated with the Count of Teba - he was apparently a crack shot and needed a lightweight, relaxed fitting jacket that allowed easy movement in the field.
> 
> I went with Lopez Aragon for mine because I think the slightly updated cut is a little more flattering and they happen to be considerably cheaper than the main competition (Camiseria Burgos in Madrid, Bel y Cia in Barcelona).


That's a fascinating history, thank you. Your jacket is a classic, and I'm certain very appealing.

I also enjoy the photo included, it's particularly fine, I think.Great photography, even if impromptu.

The shooter looks like a man who knows his sport. I've only ever had one go with a shotgun, and while familiar with the principle of leading, found it entirely foreign. While commonly being able to hit what I aimed at with a rifle or pistol, attempting a round of skeet, I broke 4 birds of the 25! :redface:



delicious_scent said:


> Fun post on safari jackets. Some key points below, discussed already throughout this thread.
> 
> https://dieworkwear.com/post/130344468109/a-cool-weather-safari-jacket
> 
> ...


Forgive me for not including your photos for brevity, they're very enjoyable and admirably display the range of the style. It's a classic, usually to be found somewhere, occasionally becoming somewhat fashionable. I have a Chipp catalog from, I believe, 1977 which includes a handsome bush jacket in suede. And in the late 80's and early 90's Paul Stuart had quite a collection in various colors of goat suede. While I don't recall specifically reading this, I'd assume they were taffeta lined, which is both common and useful among the more tailored versions of both bush jackets and shirt jackets in general when its slipperiness becomes essential.

While I know that Oldsarge, a legitimate safarian has objected to such luxurious garments on the basis of lacking functionality, we armchair romantics are never burdened with such concerns! :biggrin:


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Flanderian said:


> Forgive me for not including your photos for brevity, they're very enjoyable and admirably display the range of the style. It's a classic, usually to be found somewhere, occasionally becoming somewhat fashionable. I have a Chipp catalog from, I believe, 1977 which includes a handsome bush jacket in suede. And in the late 80's and early 90's Paul Stuart had quite a collection in various colors of goat suede. While I don't recall specifically reading this, I'd assume they were taffeta lined, which is both common and useful among the more tailored versions of both bush jackets and shirt jackets in general when its slipperiness becomes essential.
> 
> While I know that Oldsarge, a legitimate safarian has objected to such luxurious garments on the basis of lacking functionality, we arm chair romantics are never burdened with such concerns! :biggrin:


No worries, no use repeatedly stretching the page for no reason. They are taken from the dieworkwear article.

I would definitely wear a bush jacket in suede or moleskin, or the corduroy example above. Indeed on arm chair romanticism, I've personally found that some of my favourite clothes are at least vaguely 'costumey'.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

delicious_scent said:


> No worries, no use repeatedly stretching the page for no reason. They are taken from the dieworkwear article.
> 
> I would definitely wear a bush jacket in suede or moleskin, or the corduroy example above. Indeed on arm chair romanticism, I've personally found that some of my favourite clothes are at least vaguely 'costumey'.


I forgot to mention that I would think a navy linen bush jacket a very appealing acquisition, but likely hard to find lest you have it made. It seems the more tailored variety of shirt jackets aren't easy to find, with most retailers simply not understanding them, or else not believing them suitable for their clientele. I returned to Maus and Hoffman who are happily not among those. A few of their offerings which could be broadly included within the category of shirt jackets.

While obviously not navy, the first happens to be linen, the remaining two, wool.

IMHO, they all have style! :cool2:


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

I especially like the last one. Perhaps by the end of the month. It will depend on how much I spend on food and wine . . . and the new girlfriend.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Flanderian said:


> I forgot to mention that I would think a navy linen bush jacket a very appealing acquisition, but likely hard to find lest you have it made. It seems the more tailored variety of shirt jackets aren't easy to find, with most retailers simply not understanding them, or else not believing them suitable for their clientele. I returned to Maus and Hoffman who are happily not among those. A few of their offerings which could be broadly included within the category of shirt jackets.
> 
> While obviously not navy, the first happens to be linen, the remaining two, wool.
> 
> IMHO, they all have style! :cool2:


Yep, I don't think I'd be able to find it RTW at all, especially considering my location. The B&Tailor jacket is what caught my eye and hits all the right buttons. It looks great with shirt and tie and pressed trousers, yet the rumpled nature would easily allow it to be dressed down as well.

I like the second blue jacket in your post the most, I can see myself wearing that. It would likely only get as much wear as my navy blazer as all those shirt jackets are more on the refined side of the shirt-jacket spectrum of formality. I do like the gauntlet cuffs on the first jacket as well. Hopped onto their website, and $495 is definitely a reasonable price to pay.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Another, probably pricy, version


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## alkydrinker (Apr 24, 2012)

For an inexpensive, more casual option, it looks like Abercrombie and Fitch is referencing back to their roots with these for about $50. They are 55% Linen, 45% Cotton.

I actually picked up the cream color myself. It's a little less white, more off-white than pictured. I am a 42 long and the medium fits good...slightly fitted for a safari jacket, but still with some trade mark boxy-ness and ease. So, they are a bit of a more relaxed fit than you might expect from a youth retailer...and also cut friendly to taller guys. The linen content is what really sold me.



















https://www.abercrombie.com/shop/us/p/safari-jacket-9348232


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

alkydrinker said:


> For an inexpensive, more casual option, it looks like Abercrombie and Fitch is referencing back to their roots with these for about $50. They are 55% Linen, 45% Cotton.
> 
> I actually picked up the cream color myself. It's a little less white, more off-white than pictured. I am a 42 long and the medium fits good...slightly fitted for a safari jacket, but still with some trade mark boxy-ness and ease. So, they are a bit of a more relaxed fit than you might expect from a youth retailer...and also cut friendly to taller guys. The linen content is what really sold me.
> 
> ...


****, I'm going to end up with a small collection if this keeps up. Thanks for posting this! Amazing deal.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^I haven't shopped Abercrombie in quite some time, 
but presently priced at just $36, it seems a virtually irresistible buy, as one can always use a second (or third, or fourth) safari jacket! Count me tempted. LOL. :thumbs-up:


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

It is attractive, isn't it? While I have a distinct bias against doing anything to support the current 'incarnation' of A&F, buying one might do a microscopic bit to push them back to their original roots. I guess I'll get the olive.


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## paxonus (Dec 26, 2016)

Any takers on this one?


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Cough, gasp, wheeze . . . $567.00? Not in this universe.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

A denim Safari Jacket(?), at any price? Never! LOL.


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## Howard (Dec 7, 2004)

paxonus said:


> Any takers on this one?


No Thank You, I'm not going to pay almost $600 for a jacket.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Nope, will not let this thread die 

Epaulet has their version of a shirt jacket out at $175, but it's more of a slim fit and also shorter than the jackets we've been discussing ITT.

https://epauletnewyork.com/collections/outerwear


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^Indeed,
the Doyle Jacket does have a certain appeal...Epaulet's version of the "French work jacket," or so claimed in the advertisement. A drawback for some of us would be the reported limitation(s) on available sizes. Oh well...


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

I rather like the low budget A&F version. I'll post pix as soon as the GF sends me her phone shot.


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## alkydrinker (Apr 24, 2012)

Here is the A&F in cream (at Niagra Falls). The slight pulling at the button is only because I have my arm around my wife...the jacket has plenty of ease when I'm standing in a normal way.

Again, I'm a 42 Long (6'2") and this is size medium.

It's certainly not the most amazing jacket in the world, but still a neat option to have and a way to mess around with the safari jacket style for very little money.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Haven't got anything full length but you can see how happy I am with it. This could turn out to be my most favored shirtjac for warm weather!


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

alkydrinker said:


> Here is the A&F in cream (at Niagra Falls). The slight pulling at the button is only because I have my arm around my wife...the jacket has plenty of ease when I'm standing in a normal way.
> 
> Again, I'm a 42 Long (6'2") and this is size medium.
> 
> It's certainly not the most amazing jacket in the world, but still a neat option to have and a way to mess around with the safari jacket style for very little money.


This is exactly the type of outfit I would wear! You look very suave.



Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 17303
> 
> 
> Haven't got anything full length but you can see how happy I am with it. This could turn out to be my most favored shirtjac for warm weather!


You look badass here Oldsarge.


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## winghus (Dec 18, 2014)

I'm pretty sure Oldsarge IS badass, not just looks it.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^+1
...and in this latest picture he looks a lot like a bearded Ernest Hemmingway, but better looking! OLdsarge, "you ought to be in pictures." :thumbs-up:


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

My lady friend says that I would have no problem getting into niche modeling so long as I restricted myself to the local market. It's supposed to be a lot of work but lucrative. I have no idea how one breaks in and being kind of bone lazy . . . :siesta:


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Lucido said:


> My Teba from Lopez Aragon arrived last week and I'm fairly happy with it. I'd have it an inch and a half longer and there's something not quite right with the left shoulder but for such a lightweight and completely structure-less jacket I think it looks pretty ok on my 46L frame. Feedback and criticism welcome.
> View attachment 17350


I like your style!

And because of that, I will be frank in my opinions, as you have requested.

I'm afraid I must agree with you on both counts, and will add that a bit larger would be an advantage as well. You're blessed with being a tall, robust young man, and current fashion for fits will do you no favors, in addition to which, *you don't need what they profess to offer.
*
Larger men in particular, tend to look both more elegant and just better in clothing that fits a bit more loosely. That jacket needs to be at least 2" longer, and a size larger will do more to make you look casually smart, IMO.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Lucido said:


> @Flanderian, thank you kindly for your feedback. I'll definitely add 2" to the length of my next order and consider adding a little more fullness through the body. As it is, I think there's about an inch of seam allowance in the hem so I'll get my local tailor to see if he can lengthen it slightly.


You're very welcome! :beer:

I would think all of that should be helpful.


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## paxonus (Dec 26, 2016)

This is the earliest example I have seen. It is Leslie Howard circa 1939. The only feature that dates it is the size of the collar. Otherwise, it still looks great.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Great photos! Thank you! :thumbs-up:


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

My mother and aunt went on a trip to India, and I thought this was a great opportunity to possibly get a shirt jacket made. 

I even sent my Tag jacket with them as the main basis, and I showed my aunt the A&F jacket, and then the light navy B&Tailor in this thread.

She had a pretty clear idea of what exactly I wanted when she took measurements and I showed her pictures of details.

To my surprise...not a single tailor in the region they visited even attempted to make it! 

Their response? "We simply don't make this". All of them! 

Yet they make suits from scratch all the time(albeit with no canvassing, as I noticed from my last overseas MTM suit).

Puzzling in my mind.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Really? How odd. When I was in Bangkok back in the, uh . . . '80's? Safari suits were all over the place. I'm surprised that they wouldn't do the same in India. However, Hemrajani does make them. Ask Divij for a 'safariana' picture and he'll zip it right to you.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Oldsarge said:


> Really? How odd. When I was in Bangkok back in the, uh . . . '80's? Safari suits were all over the place. I'm surprised that they wouldn't do the same in India. However, Hemrajani does make them. Ask Divij for a 'safariana' picture and he'll zip it right to you.


Perhaps it was the region? I don't know.

I'm not sure how Hemrajani works. Is it basically online MTM? If so, I've always been hesitant to try that. I know they(he?) travels as well, but I'm not anywhere near Toronto or Vancouvver.

What would the cost be like? My local tailor told me around $750 if I want one made.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

delicious_scent said:


> My mother and aunt went on a trip to India, and I thought this was a great opportunity to possibly get a shirt jacket made.
> 
> I even sent my Tag jacket with them as the main basis, and I showed my aunt the A&F jacket, and then the light navy B&Tailor in this thread.
> 
> ...





delicious_scent said:


> Perhaps it was the region? I don't know.
> 
> I'm not sure how Hemrajani works. Is it basically online MTM? If so, I've always been hesitant to try that. I know they(he?) travels as well, but I'm not anywhere near Toronto or Vancouvver.
> 
> What would the cost be like? My local tailor told me around $750 if I want one made.


My only caution in having one made bespoke is to be clear about what you want and what you'll get regarding fit. IMO, a shirt jacket looks right when fitted loosely, slightly over-sized, not like a fitted shirt. I've seen some run up bespoke where the fit was that of a fitted tailored shirt, and to me it looks all wrong and destroys the effect. And one of those *may* have been from Hemrajani who can do beautiful work. So my expectation, *if* they did do it, is that it was a product of a misunderstanding/communication.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

If you have your measurements made by someone who knows what they're doing, I seriously doubt that Hemrajani would charge anywhere that much. $750 is about the charge they give for a one-off sport coat.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Flanderian said:


> My only caution in having one made bespoke is to be clear about what you want and what you'll get regarding fit. IMO, a shirt jacket looks right when fitted loosely, slightly over-sized, not like a fitted shirt. I've seen some run up bespoke where the fit was that of a fitted tailored shirt, and to me it looks all wrong and destroys the effect. And one of those *may* have been from Hemrajani who can do beautiful work. So my expectation, *if* they did do it, is that it was a product of a misunderstanding/communication.


Definitely. I tried to relay exactly this to my aunt. I wanted a fit in between the Tag jacket and the A&F jacket, but with a reverse back pleat for more range of motion, and smaller sleeves and armholes to stop it from riding up when I raised my arms.

I recall you posting a super slim fit one(or maybe it was me?) and it definitely looked terrible.


Oldsarge said:


> If you have your measurements made by someone who knows what they're doing, I seriously doubt that Hemrajani would charge anywhere that much. $750 is about the charge they give for a one-off sport coat.


Excellent, I'll have them at the top of my list when I get one made. Thank you.


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## 127.72 MHz (Feb 16, 2007)

eagle2250 said:


> ^^+1
> ...and in this latest picture he looks a lot like a bearded Ernest Hemmingway, but better looking! OLdsarge, "you ought to be in pictures." :thumbs-up:


He is even more stunning in person,....


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## paxonus (Dec 26, 2016)

Picked up this vintage Orvis piece on ebay . It has some nice details like a leather yolk and leather patch over the pencil pocket, and side vents.










Another ebay find. This is a wool gabardine:


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

paxonus said:


> Picked up this vintage Orvis piece on ebay . It has some nice details like a leather yolk and leather patch over the pencil pocket, and side vents.
> 
> View attachment 18918
> 
> ...


I like your purchases!

The Orvis is a nice rustic field shirt that should look good with pieces with a similar aesthetic. And the wool gabardine shirt is a classic find, which if large enough should serve admirably even with dressier shirts and slacks.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

paxonus said:


> Picked up this vintage Orvis piece on ebay . It has some nice details like a leather yolk and leather patch over the pencil pocket, and side vents.
> 
> View attachment 18918
> 
> ...


+1!


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## akwmek (Sep 12, 2017)

nice read, thanks!


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Starting to see the appeal of the more refined shirt jackets mentioned in the opening post after seeing this

https://www.oconnellsclothing.com/O-Connell-s-Shirt-Jacket-Wool-District-Check.html


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## paxonus (Dec 26, 2016)

delicious_scent said:


> Starting to see the appeal of the more refined shirt jackets mentioned in the opening post after seeing this
> 
> https://www.oconnellsclothing.com/O-Connell-s-Shirt-Jacket-Wool-District-Check.html


Here is something along the same lines. I particularly like the collar on this one: 
https://www.mausandhoffman.com/langmar-soft-jacket-19404uv3-p


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

It's the perfect way to maintain standards when you work in a dogmatic 'business casual' environment. And they're cooler in warm weather than a full-out sports coat. Not that they can't be plenty warm if you make them out of good wool . . .


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## 127.72 MHz (Feb 16, 2007)

delicious_scent said:


> Starting to see the appeal of the more refined shirt jackets mentioned in the opening post after seeing this
> 
> https://www.oconnellsclothing.com/O-Connell-s-Shirt-Jacket-Wool-District-Check.html


I believe this one is made by Chrysalis. I have two of their field coats and a O'Connell's reversible tweed/rain overcoat by them. I have received positive comments every time I have worn any Chrysalis garment. Simply outstanding products.

Ben Silver has something very similar also made by Chrysalis.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

delicious_scent said:


> Starting to see the appeal of the more refined shirt jackets mentioned in the opening post after seeing this
> 
> https://www.oconnellsclothing.com/O-Connell-s-Shirt-Jacket-Wool-District-Check.html


Thank you!

That's very handsome! Great cloth and exactly the cut and features I prefer with one exception; I'd want gauntlet buttons.

IMO, the satin lining is important as it really ups the comfort factor in getting into and out of it. It even makes it hang better when you're wearing it.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

As does Gibbs. However, all of them are out my range.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^+1...
for a shirt-jac design, absolutely! :icon_scratch: For those dollar amonuts, I'll buy a sport coat.


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## Fred G. Unn (Jul 12, 2011)

PSA: Epaulet has 50% off all their Tebas for the next 24 hrs with code teba50. Some are already marked down and the code even works on those bringing the price down to $173.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^Indeed they are, but...
it appears that anyone wearing a size 46 or above is simply out of luck on the sale you reference.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

paxonus said:


> Here is something along the same lines. I particularly like the collar on this one:
> https://www.mausandhoffman.com/langmar-soft-jacket-19404uv3-p
> 
> View attachment 18921


I think that was posted earlier in the thread, but I don't remember.

I like it as well, although it wouldn't work nearly as well in my wardrobe due to the lighter colour. 


127.72 MHz said:


> I believe this one is made by Chrysalis. I have two of their field coats and a O'Connell's reversible tweed/rain overcoat by them. I have received positive comments every time I have worn any Chrysalis garment. Simply outstanding products.
> 
> Ben Silver has something very similar also made by Chrysalis.


I googled Chrysalis Field Coat and it looks like a very nice jacket indeed.



Flanderian said:


> Thank you!
> 
> That's very handsome! Great cloth and exactly the cut and features I prefer with one exception; I'd want gauntlet buttons.
> 
> IMO, the satin lining is important as it really ups the comfort factor in getting into and out of it. It even makes it hang better when you're wearing it.


Agreed, gauntlet cuffs/buttons is the one feature I want for my future bespoke shirt jacket, it looks very sharp on the B&Tailor jacket.

Never thought about a satin lining for any shirt jacket, would it wear a lot warmer?


eagle2250 said:


> ^^+1...
> for a shirt-jac design, absolutely! :icon_scratch: For those dollar amonuts, I'll buy a sport coat.


It is expensive, and doesn't have the construction of a sports coat, so for that reason, it is a lot.

However, I'd argue that it's probably far more versatile in contemporary contexts. I rarely, if ever, get to wear a suit or a sports coat, this is a nice in-between option that would look appropriate for almost all occasions.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Here's another view of it.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 18935
> 
> 
> Here's another view of it.


damn, that's tempting. sometimes I should stay away from AAAC.

really nice looking gun in the picture as well, and I don't even care for guns.


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## 127.72 MHz (Feb 16, 2007)

^^ I am an avid shot gunner and trap shooter. I love all smooth bore guns but be aware that many of the doubles British "Richys" shoot are $50K, and six figure guns are not at all uncommon.

For real birds I'll stick with my old Browning superposed,...


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

And I with my Browning Lightning. However, I do have a couple of vintage Brit doubles that I occasionally take out and fondle.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Here is the shirt-jacket/safari jacket I got made by my local tailor. It was mainly based off the TAG Safari jacket that was recommended earlier in the thread. 100% linen that has some heft to it, but is not warm to wear.

I'm very pleased with it overall.

I'm indecisive on the buttons and pairing it with the denim shirt underneath, thoughts?


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## 16412 (Apr 1, 2005)

It looks real nice. Like the cloth and pockets. The buttons are fine.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

That's a really nice shirt jacket! :beer:

Great cloth! I really like the color. From what I can see on my monitor, I think you're right, it doesn't look like that particular shade of denim is the best choice. Off the top of my head; white, cream, ecru, pale yellow, pink, faded light red (Nantucket red.) and some earth tones should all pair very smartly with it.

You seem to be trying different ways of wearing it, and I hope you continue to experiment to see what you like best. You've got a really small waist, and that's a long belt in relationship to it. But I think you'll like the jacket belted best. You can try tying a bow, and you could also take the ends beyond the knot in tuck them back into the belt loops on the side if you've got too much hanging down. I probably only button the middle 3 buttons, as I think that might offer the best line. And when I wear a looser belted jacket, I typically pull any extra cloth that forms folds in the front around to the rear.

Oh! If you've got any lighter weight turtlenecks, I think they'd look really good with it too.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Nice jacket. Tailored in the linen cloth., I suspect you will get a lot of wearing opportunities with that jacket. The buttons look fine, but I'm not sure I would pair it with the denim shirt. The two shades of blue do not coordinate well. An ocher hued shirt would be a better choice...I think. I'm sure you will enjoy that handsome jacket for years to come.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

WA said:


> It looks real nice. Like the cloth and pockets. The buttons are fine.


Thank you WA.


Flanderian said:


> That's a really nice shirt jacket! :beer:
> 
> Great cloth! I really like the color. From what I can see on my monitor, I think you're right, it doesn't look like that particular shade of denim is the best choice. Off the top of my head; white, cream, ecru, pale yellow, pink, faded light red (Nantucket red.) and some earth tones should all pair very smartly with it.
> 
> ...


Thank you Flanderian.

I don't have any lighter weight turtlenecks, but that's a great idea, I'll be on the lookout for them.

Yeah I'm definitely experimenting with the belt. Unfortunately I'm horrid with most knots, so I've no idea how to tie a bow, I suppose I could learn.

So far the method I like best is just letting it hang long and loose like in the pictures, and the method you mentioned of doubling it back to the loops after tying the knot. It stays snug and doesn't loosen, and looks the cleanest.

I also decided to get that belt detail in the picture to keep it centered. Tying it like that also helps to create waist shaping, although the belt is definitely long like that as well. That's one way where tying a bow would work great in the back.

A lot of the shirt combinations mentioned are hard to find for myself, but I'll be on the lookout for those as well. 


eagle2250 said:


> Nice jacket. Tailored in the linen cloth., I suspect you will get a lot of wearing opportunities with that jacket. The buttons look fine, but I'm not sure I would pair it with the denim shirt. The two shades of blue do not coordinate well. An ocher hued shirt would be a better choice...I think. I'm sure you will enjoy that handsome jacket for years to come.


Thanks eagle. I have an ocher sweater, but not a shirt. Another tough to find shirt colour methinks.

I hope so! It's a very vibrant colour and is much bolder than I was expecting.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

delicious_scent said:


> I also decided to get that belt detail in the picture to keep it centered.


That's a really good feature! I've seen it before, but hadn't considered it.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Winter is icumen in, lude sing Canada goose!

And in celebration of the forthcoming cool and wet, Pendleton brings us this.

https://www.pendleton-usa.com/produ...ns-new&start=4&cgid=men-featured-new-arrivals

If I didn't already have something nearly identical from Woolrich, I'd get one.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Oldsarge said:


> Winter is icumen in, lude sing Canada goose!
> 
> And in celebration of the forthcoming cool and wet, Pendleton brings us this.
> 
> ...


I've got a Pendleton shirt jacket I bought about 20 years ago. Paid, I think, $89.

Guess things have changed! 

This is nice, but I wish it had gauntlet buttons.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^Perhaps a hoarder at heart, I have four of Pendleton's Topsters (purchases motivated by pictures of a vintage Topster jacket, shared with us by Oldsarge) and (I think) five of their Board Shirts. Living here in central Florida, that is about all the robust wool garments I can handle. I am going to try to forget I saw this most recent temptation shared with us by Oldsarge, as he can be a bad influence! LOL.


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## paxonus (Dec 26, 2016)

eagle2250 said:


> ^^Perhaps a hoarder at heart, I have four of Pendleton's Topsters (purchases motivated by pictures of a vintage Topster jacket, shared with us by Oldsarge) and (I think) five of their Board Shirts. Living here in central Florida, that is about all the robust wool garments I can handle. I am going to try to forget I saw this most recent temptation shared with us by Oldsarge, as he can be a bad influence! LOL.


I have one I picked up on Ebay that is unlike any I have ever seen. It is like a board shirt with the button loop collar and straight hem, but is cut slimmer. It has no breast pocket, but has two patch pockets with flaps.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Hmmm, sounds rather 'vintage'.


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## paxonus (Dec 26, 2016)

Oldsarge said:


> Hmmm, sounds rather 'vintage'.


I'm not sure how old it is. The slimmer cut makes it look more modern. It is also a solid dark brown, so it doesn't look as dated as many of their older plaid patterns.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Oh, then it's a more recent revival. Pendleton does this every now and again but they never get it right enough for the 'new Topster' to generate a following. If they would just give up trying to peddle them to Millennials and stick with those of us who grew up with them . . .


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Oldsarge said:


> Oh, then it's a more recent revival. Pendleton does this every now and again but they never get it right enough for the 'new Topster' to generate a following. If they would just give up trying to peddle them to Millennials and stick with those of us who grew up with them . . .


Pssst . . . ! 

https://www.pendleton-usa.com/produ...na-30666.html?dwvar_30666_color=7959&cgid=men


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## drlivingston (Jun 21, 2012)

I have a couple of Woolrich shackets that date back to the late 1940s - early 1950s. They were acquired from a costume shop in the French Quarter of New Orleans.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Flanderian said:


> Pssst . . . !
> 
> https://www.pendleton-usa.com/produ...na-30666.html?dwvar_30666_color=7959&cgid=men


Hmmm . . . Innnnnnnteresting!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Oldsarge said:


> Hmmm . . . Innnnnnnteresting!


They've got a couple more too -



















Don't care for the last one, but the first two have potential for the right guy, in the right outfit.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

PC makes an overshirt too that looks quite nice and convenient with the side pockets. I wish it came in more colours though.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> They've got a couple more too -
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That navy version is a must have!


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

The Pendleton outlet store is just down the street from me. It's looking like I need to pay another visit.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^I really miss the Pendleton store at the at the Michigan City, IN Outlet Mall)). That store was a major source of my Board Shirts, while my Topsters and a few other items were purchased from their online operation.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Particularly rustic. And I don't like zippers.

But it has its place, and I've seen worse.

Nice color.

https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/111...06678&feat=506678-GN3&csp=f&attrValue_0=Loden


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

The 'rustic' appeals but the zipper does not. My Woolrich from nearly ten years ago is very similar but with proper buttons. It makes a great hunting coat.


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## 16412 (Apr 1, 2005)

Oldsarge said:


> The Pendleton outlet store is just down the street from me. It's looking like I need to pay another visit.


The words, "I need to pay", caught my attention.


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## David J. Cooper (Apr 26, 2010)

Flanderian said:


> Particularly rustic. And I don't like zippers.
> 
> But it has its place, and I've seen worse.
> 
> ...


I have that exact jacket but with a wind proof lining. It is fantastic, think of it as a replacement for a heavy fleece. The zipper isn't great though but, no trouble yet after 4 or so years of constant three season use.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^With all due respect, regardless of who is wearing it,
what is pictured above is not a good look...never was and never will be!  Sorry.


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