# Went in with a 3-roll-2, came home with a 3



## Joe Tradly (Jan 21, 2006)

Help.

A sack suit's worst nightmare came true this week. My dry cleaner pressed a very nice soft 3 button rolled to 2 lapel into what she thought was right: a 3 button jacket [by the by, I don't bother trying to explain. There's a considerable language barrier, and she wouldn't agree with me anyway that the lapel should roll where it rolls.]

Usually, worsted wool, after a few days will settle out hanging in my closet, unbuttoned. But this is a thick camel hair wool odd jacket. And she pressed the hell into that lapel.

Can I use a hot iron to press out the creases she created (and let the natural roll come back with hanging)? Is there another technique that's worked for other members?

I usually avoid taking suits to the dry cleaner, but this was fresh off ebay, and it's SOP to go right to the cleaners with ebay/thrift.

Thanks gentlemen,

JB


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## chat_chapeau (Dec 2, 2005)

Wierd. I had the same thing happen this month. I took one of my favorite jackets to the cleaners and it came back with lapels pressed wrong. In my case, it's a 2-btn they rolled to the bottom button. I took it right back to have it re-pressed, but it still doesn't look right.


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## Desk Jockey (Aug 19, 2005)

If you've got a steamer, I find that helps. Also, when you do iron it try to work from the back of the lapel- it could counteract the crease that they put in.

I'm pretty lucky, I found a dry cleaning place that's been owned by the same family since the 60's. I gave them my blazer and the patriarch pronounced "wow, a sack... I haven't seen one of these in a decade!"


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## Coolidge24 (Mar 21, 2005)

Take a safety pin. Pin it back. Present it to the dry cleaner. Say you want it pressed that way.

I always explain beforehand. Usually I make them pin it and add a note.



Better option: Find one who speaks English.

No excuses.


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

You need to steam it. I generally pop the collar thus also popping out the lapels and hang the coat (on a hanger) on the shower curtain rod. I then steam out any and all creases on the lapel inside and out (don't steam out the collar crease at the neck, though) with my steamer. While the coat is still warm from being steamed take it off the hanger and put it on (with collar and lapels no longer 'popped'). Button the jacket as you would wear it, thus establishing the proper lapel roll while it cools. You'll also get a better 'belly' to the lapel roll this way than having it creased.


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## Tom72 (May 8, 2006)

I feel your pain, Joe. I have found that they make fewer mistakes of this sort once the top button is gone. But I also have used Cooly's approach "afterhand" since learning that they can indeed make the same mistake twice even with a verbal instruction.

I have a couple of ancient tweeds that roll (on their own) all the way south of the lowest button. I may try Alan's suggestion on them.

thanks,


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## vwguy (Jul 23, 2004)

A steamer is your best bet. I got a Jiffy steamer off ebay and have found all sorts of uses for it. If it's any consolation, my dry cleaner who understand English perfectly, still has pressed some of my jackets (the wrong way no less!) even after I have told them not to press the lapels. Of course they see nothing wrong w/ turning a 3/2 in a 3 button, but they also think a jacket sleeve should hit your thumb knuckle.

Brian


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## Isaac Mickle (Nov 28, 2006)

AlanC, what brand/model steamer do you use?


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

Mine's just a Conair (not a handheld) I bought lightly used off ebay. I'd love to have one of the powerful ones, but for my needs this has served adequately. I think I paid $30 + shipping for it a couple of years ago.


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## I_Should_Be_Working (Jun 23, 2005)

Joe,

As a last resort, you might try taking it to a tailor. They, too, will have a steam press, but may have better experience in shaping the roll.


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## cglex (Oct 23, 2006)

I had a similar problem 25 years ago. My solution was to buy 2 button suits thereafter. The fix worked.


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## Untilted (Mar 30, 2006)

vwguy said:


> but they also think a jacket sleeve should hit your thumb knuckle.
> 
> Brian


That is......strange.


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## bigCat (Jun 10, 2005)

Also, you may use the claener for cleaning part only (no pressing), and than take the coat to a competent tailor for pressing. It will cost more, but since dry cleaning should be an infrequent procedure, it should be affordable.


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## sweetness360 (Dec 13, 2005)

Cornell laundry just botched up my thick tweed 3-2 sack, doing the same thing. I spent about a half hour ironing it and it looks fine now. You'd think at an Ivy League school they'd know what they are doing, especially since my directions were very specific.


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## ptolbert (May 12, 2005)

*DONT USE AN IRON ON CAMELHAIR!*
It will take the nap out!


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

I can't imagine using a home iron on any wool (camel, cashmere, etc.) tailored garment. Steam will take care of your problem, Joe.


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## MDSuits (Jan 28, 2006)

*Bring it to a tailor*

Same thing happened to me. I brought a 3-to-2 roll jacket to a dry cleaner for a food stain, and they ironed the lapel flat to the top button. I mentioned it to the tailor who made the jacket, and he said to bring it in. They applied a rolled steamer for a few minutes, and the 3-to-2 roll is back.


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## Untilted (Mar 30, 2006)

My drycleaner seems to know what's up. It's probably because she's like 50 years old, and served a lot of Eljo's customers in the past several decades.

Man, that one time I had her cuff my Bills. It was an accident I didn't wear them at my true waist. Before I was about to pull up my pants, she yelled at me for it.


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## Isaac Mickle (Nov 28, 2006)

AlanC said:


> You need to steam it. I generally pop the collar thus also popping out the lapels and hang the coat (on a hanger) on the shower curtain rod. I then steam out any and all creases on the lapel inside and out (don't steam out the collar crease at the neck, though) with my steamer. While the coat is still warm from being steamed take it off the hanger and put it on (with collar and lapels no longer 'popped'). Button the jacket as you would wear it, thus establishing the proper lapel roll while it cools. You'll also get a better 'belly' to the lapel roll this way than having it creased.


Alan, thanks for sharing this advice. I received a crumpled but gorgeous Golden Fleece last night. To my surprise, all the wrinkles from the shipping box steamed out this morning. I popped the collar and steamed the underside of the lapel as you directed. The jacket rolls almost all the way to the second button, and the whole thing looks just great six hours later.

Man I am glad I did not drop it off at the dry-cleaners for a press. I do not know what they would have done with it.


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## rojo (Apr 29, 2004)

I rue the day three-button, high-gorge jackets came into fashion.


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## zightx (Jul 10, 2011)

Instead of starting a new thread I'm bumping this. I just turned in my 3-2 roll Southwick jacket to a "dry cleaner/tailor/shomaker"-store.

I told them to press it to the second button and not the first. But I'm pretty worried they will destory it anyway as they probably have no idea what roll is. They said it would be finished at thursday this week so I have time to run in there and snag it before they destroy it. 

I'm pretty sure they will press it just flat and that kinda kills it too. Should I tell them to not press the lapels at all and try to do this myself at home? I think they are to incompetent to understand howto make a roll.

I havn't paid for this yet so... but kinda embarassing to run in there and snag it. Any good ideas what to tell them?


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## Brooksfan (Jan 25, 2005)

Here's an idea for a valuable AAAT product: A laminated card that shows clear pictures of how a 3r2 button is supposed to look, with close-ups of the lapels and clear instructions written in Korean. We could produce them cheaply and distribute to TRAD fans who could then bring them to their cleaners to ensure proper treatment of the jacket. 

Anyone feel like starting this venture?


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## stubloom (Jun 6, 2010)

There are 4 issues here:

1. At the overwhelming majority of cleaners the focus is on getting garments in and out of their "production facility" in the fastest possible time and at the lowest possible cost. Your "personal preferences" are ignored because they just get in the way of this production orientation.

2. At the overwhelming majority of cleaners there is very little or no communication between those who take in your garments and those who press those garments. Do you really think that the customer service reps are going to write instructional notes for the pressers? Do you really think that a "system" exists for such communications? Do you really think that the pressers (who are mostly paid by the piece) are going to take the time to read those notes? And, even if they did read the notes, do you think that those pressers are going to take the time to find out what those instructions mean and then actually follow those instructions? 

3. At the overwhelming majority of cleaners the "inspection" function is non existent. After pressing there is only one job left: get the garments into a bag and onto the conveyor. So who is actually following up to ensure that your specific instructions were followed? 

4. Finally, and most importantly, the overwhelming majority of cleaners have no clue what a 3 roll 2 is. That being the case, why would you place any faith in the possibility that your sport coat or suit jacket will be returned with the correct roll? 

So what to do when dropping off a 3 roll 2 coat or jacket to a cleaner?

Without providing any instructions to the cleaner, ask them if they know what the a 3 roll 2 is. If the response is a blank stare, walk out and find a cleaner who knows.


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## MKC (Sep 10, 2010)

I found a neighborhood cleaner where a.) I talk with the owner when I go in and b.) they do the cleaning and pressing on premises. Then I made 25 copies of a page from an old J. Press catalog showing a nice 3-2 roll. I stick a copy of the page in the breast pocket every time I take in a suit or sport coat.

That works most of the time.


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## zightx (Jul 10, 2011)

Good idea asking if they know what a 3 roll 2 is. If they don't know what it is, chances are pretty low they will do a perfect 3 roll 2 lapel the first time ever.

Couldn't get my jacket back because the place send away laundry for dry cleaning. Chances are even higher that they will **** it up as they probably have no communication what so ever. Great... Lucky it's just a cheap jacket but I still don't wanna destory it.


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## mhj (Oct 27, 2010)

My dry cleaners knows what a 3 roll 2 is. I told them that I wanted the jacket pressed just the way it is now and the customer rep said he knows, they these jackets in from time to time. The roll came out perfectly. I have a different problem though. At the back of the collar there is about 3/8 of an inch of the lining showing. I tried to press it myself at home back it to place but it pops back the way it was.

Is there a way to fix this myself short of taking it back in to the cleaners?


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## Bucksfan (May 25, 2008)

I had a pleasant experience with my Tom James Filo-A-Mano 3-roll-2 jacket (with leather buttons too!) and "Martinizing" of all places. It desparately needed to be dry cleaned, and My wife actually dropped it off while I was out of town, so I was unable to do any questioning or instruction - and I therefore was a little concerned. They handled it perfectly, and the roll was beautiful! Now, I do know the manager and owner there, and he has done a great job with other garments for me, including other odd jackets, but I was very impressed with this one.


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## Patrick06790 (Apr 10, 2005)

The dreaded collar creep.

I've fixed it myself, with hand held steamer and a very light ironing through a clean towel. Steam it first, then set it out on the ironing board or even a clean table or kitchen counter (on top of a clean towel). Pin the collar in the proper place, and then very gently apply the iron, on a low setting, through yet another towel. Don't press hard.

This takes some practice.

A good dry cleaner can fix it too, but I don't have one of those so I had to figure it out myself.

There was a thread about this ages ago, but that was before the Great Crash.


mhj said:


> My dry cleaners knows what a 3 roll 2 is. I told them that I wanted the jacket pressed just the way it is now and the customer rep said he knows, they these jackets in from time to time. The roll came out perfectly. I have a different problem though. At the back of the collar there is about 3/8 of an inch of the lining showing. I tried to press it myself at home back it to place but it pops back the way it was.
> 
> Is there a way to fix this myself short of taking it back in to the cleaners?


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## Patrick06790 (Apr 10, 2005)

Here's one of the old threads, with several suggestions, I forgot about having the alterations tailor put in a few stitches to hold the collar in place.

https://askandyaboutclothes.com/com...collar-creep-revisited&highlight=collar+creep


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

Finding a proper drycleaner is of the essence. Explaining what you require to someone who doesn't speak much English, who will throw your garment in to a hamper, and then send it off to a plant where it is thrown on a pressing machine means you have zero chance of getting what you want done. There are cleaners who know what they're doing, who press jackets on site, by hand, not machine. You have to find them. If you live in a small town with only one cleaner, probably the method mentioned above, have them clean only and then take to a tailor for pressing, is the best choice.


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## Sartre (Mar 25, 2008)

MKC said:


> I found a neighborhood cleaner where a.) I talk with the owner when I go in and b.) they do the cleaning and pressing on premises. Then I made 25 copies of a page from an old J. Press catalog showing a nice 3-2 roll. I stick a copy of the page in the breast pocket every time I take in a suit or sport coat.
> 
> That works most of the time.


This is an excellent way to "train" them what you want.


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## zightx (Jul 10, 2011)

Got my jacket back today. Almost a perfect roll to my surprise. Maybe a little less rolling on the lapel without buttons when the jacket is buttoned, but may be due it's lying against the body. (Yes, I'm very pedant....)


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