# Mercer & Sons vs Brooks Brothers oxford comparison



## fallschurch (Apr 7, 2015)

I recently acquired university stripe oxfords from Mercer & Sons and Brooks Brothers (the older model with lined collars, not the newer $140 one). I believe a comparison into the two may be useful. 

Both oxford cloths are equally heavy and thick. Where they really differ is their stiffness. The Brooks one is very soft and has a luxurious feel to it. The Mercer one is significantly more stiff, almost like canvas cloth. The Mercer one is also slightly more nubby. I like the Mercer one, but this is one of personal preference. I tend towards the rugged and utilitarian. I rate both cloths extremely highly and they are much thicker than any oxford shirt I've come across. 

The Mercer button holes are not as well made. The Brooks one has slight fabric imperfections (some of the fabric at the end of one sleeve looks like its pilling, and very small patches of cloth on the shirt look like they're going to fray). I did put it in the dryer for 20 minutes once, don't know if this is the cause. Edge to Mercer. 

Both are 15.5 inch shirts (the Mercer one was put on a 14.5 body), but the Mercer one is almost an inch wider at the neck and more than an inch longer at the shoulder (this couldn't have been because of 20 minutes in the dryer, could it)? This is a draw, but personally edge to Mercer because I like a wider neck and shoulder.

The Mercer has a significant edge in the unlined and longer collar. 

Price is where the biggest difference is. With all of the discounts, I got the Brooks one for $50 including shipping using various discounts. I paid $165 for the Mercer one despite the 25% first-time user discount, due to alterations (7-button placket, different collar size, and trimmed waist). 

Overall, I give the edge to Mercer. But if I had to choose between A) one Mercer shirt and B) 3 Brooks shirts plus 15 dollars; I'd have to choose Brooks. 

I think Brooks knows their must-iron oxfords are too good to be true, which is why they replaced them with a $140, thinner, and pocket-less version. Sad times.


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## CSG (Nov 22, 2011)

I have a number of the previous BB oxfords and other than an issue I had with one a couple years back, I like them fine. Normally worn open collar. I'm sure the Mercer shirts are great but, hopefully, I've got enough BB shirts to last me. They were all bought on sales where I paid an average of $50 per shirt instead of the $92 MSRP. I always buy more than one of a color and just store the unopened ones for when needed down the road. Some of my BB shirts are a few years old and have held up fine so far. I have a lot of unopened shirts.


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## ClarenceRogerVictorShir (Sep 2, 2016)

Get a Michael Spencer OCBD. Better than BB, sounds like it'd be as good or better than Mercer. Ymmv I guess but I'd give Spencer a shot next


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## fallschurch (Apr 7, 2015)

It does not, I was thinking of a better way to describe it and the Mercer feels like it's been starched compared to the BB even though it's not, plus slightly more nubby. Pretty much ideal for me, I read these get softer over time but I hope this one never does.

Will try Michael Spencer next once I save up. Also interested in Proper Cloth, Luxire, Ratio, Press, and Kamakura (I've read that Ratio and some Luxire Oxford cloth isn't as substantial, then others like Luxire warzone guarantees 240 washes, and Proper Cloth Albiate Mill oxfords are extremely heavy. #tangent


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

BB's OCBDs captured my heart and my sartorial allegiance many years back. I rather prefer the gentle hand of the cloth and the generous roll of their collars and for the price paid, particularly on sale, they represent a very good value! Alas, I am a loyalist and will, in all probability, stick with my old allegiances. LOL.


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## jpgr (Sep 2, 2016)

eagle2250 said:


> BB's OCBDs captured my heart and my sartorial allegiance many years back. I rather prefer the gentle hand of the cloth and the generous roll of their collars and for the price paid, particularly on sale, they represent a very good value! Alas, I am a loyalist and will, in all probability, stick with my old allegiances. LOL.


Same here. For some reason, I keep looking for a "better" OCBD, when I can get exactly what I need from BB even to the point of ordering online and knowing that what I get will fit exactly how I want it. Parts of my wardrobe could stand to be improved, but my OCBD collection isn't one of those parts!

I do enjoy reading the comparison from the OP though. I've no doubt that Mercer makes a high quality shirt.


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## fallschurch (Apr 7, 2015)

jpgr said:


> Same here. For some reason, I keep looking for a "better" OCBD, when I can get exactly what I need from BB even to the point of ordering online and knowing that what I get will fit exactly how I want it. Parts of my wardrobe could stand to be improved, but my OCBD collection isn't one of those parts!
> 
> I do enjoy reading the comparison from the OP though. I've no doubt that Mercer makes a high quality shirt.


Agree that overall, the "old" Brooks Brothers is a better value. I slightly prefer Mercer because I like its more rugged cloth, but that's subjective, and its not worth an extra $115. If you're a fan of luxurious, soft cloth, its a winner. HOWEVER, the newer model is 50% more expensive, and has thinner cloth, and doesn't have a pocket. To me, its no longer a better buy than Mercer (but the old one is).

I'm not an expert at types of cloth, but the old Brooks feels like a 40s 2ply weave, while the newer one seems like the 50s single-ply that Ratio OCBD's are made from. Would love if someone on this forum actually knew the weaves of these shirts.


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## fallschurch (Apr 7, 2015)

m.m. said:


> Thanks. It sounds a lot like my school uniform oxford shirts I had growing up. They would soften up by the time summer came around.


^ This, makes me sad. The ideal OCBD cloth used to be a commonplace, basic item found everywhere even in school uniforms, probably your everyday person could afford a closet full of them. Nowadays, it is a luxury one the that cannot even be found off the rack anymore once BB completes its phase-out of its old OCBD's.


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## Reuben (Aug 28, 2013)

fallschurch said:


> ^ This, makes me sad. The ideal OCBD cloth used to be a commonplace, basic item found everywhere even in school uniforms, probably your everyday person could afford a closet full of them. Nowadays, it is a luxury one the that cannot even be found off the rack anymore once BB completes its phase-out of its old OCBD's.


Oh come on, that's more than a bit melodramatic. The ordinary OCBD is still a commonplace and cheap item, look at Lands' End, LL Bean, or even Uniqlo. It's just the very particular version that this board prefers that's harder to find and more expensive. And even then you can still get one for under a hundred bucks from Ratio.


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## fallschurch (Apr 7, 2015)

Lands End and Uniqlo: dinky collars won't roll. LL Bean: treated with formaldehyde resin. Any other suggestions?


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## fallschurch (Apr 7, 2015)

fallschurch said:


> Lands End and Uniqlo: dinky collars won't roll. LL Bean: treated with formaldehyde resin. Any other suggestions?


Also, Ratio is $98. I bet school uniforms weren't $98


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## Reuben (Aug 28, 2013)

fallschurch said:


> Lands End and Uniqlo: dinky collars won't roll. LL Bean: treated with formaldehyde resin. Any other suggestions?


*It's just the very particular version that this board prefers that's harder to find and more expensive.*


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## Tiger (Apr 11, 2010)

fallschurch said:


> Lands End and Uniqlo: dinky collars won't roll. LL Bean: treated with formaldehyde resin. Any other suggestions?


I'm wearing a Hyde Park as I type - purchased last year - and the collar is not "dinky." I wore one last week - purchased two months ago - that did not have a such a collar.


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## fallschurch (Apr 7, 2015)

How long is the Hyde Park collar? Jerrod at Oxfordclothbuttobdown has noted that their collars have shrunk to under 3 inches and no longer recommends them.


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## xcubbies (Jul 31, 2005)

If you are familiar with the different grades of sandpaper, perhaps you could rate the Mercer and the BB shirts accordingly. It would help us appreciate the difference:

For reference: Extrafine. This grade of sand*paper is used between coats of paint or varnish. Grits of 240, 320 and 400 are termed very fine, while extra- or superfine sheets with grits of up to 600 are avail*able for polishing jobs.

Fine. Fine abrasive papers have a grit in the range of 120 to 220. For most home work*shops, fine will suffice for final sanding before the work is finished.

Medium. Some final shaping can be done with medium, which has a grit range of 60 to 100. General sanding work is often best done with medium-grade sandpaper.

Coarse. Rough shaping is the strong suit of coarse paper, as is the removal of previous fin*ishes. The grits are typically in the 40 to 50 range.

Extra coarse. This stuff is really rough, usable for removing paint and varnish that you think might never come off. The sanding of old floors too, sometimes requires the abrasiveness of extracoarse sandpaper. Don’t even think about using it on any but the toughest jobs.

(Thanks Bob Avila)


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## JLibourel (Jun 13, 2004)

m.m. said:


> Does the mercer fabric feel rough or scratchy on the skin?


Not on my old hide, it doesn't, and I happen to be wearing a Mercer "Bulletproof" OCBD at this very moment.


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## CSG (Nov 22, 2011)

The Hyde Park shirts I have from the last year or two are the traditional fit, not tailored, and have 3" collars. Not enough for a tie IMO but fine to wear open. BB's old shirts seem to run between 3 1/4 and their stated 3 3/8".


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## Tiger (Apr 11, 2010)

fallschurch said:


> How long is the Hyde Park collar? Jerrod at Oxfordclothbuttobdown has noted that their collars have shrunk to under 3 inches and no longer recommends them.


The unfortunate thing is that LE has used different vendors over the years, so no doubt some batches of Hyde Parks have had smaller collars than others. Again, I wore a traditional-fit Hyde Park today with a Sam Hober grenadine tie and the collar fit was fine, and not a speck of tie was exposed. Shirt fabric was quite nice, too.

I'm not losing sleep over the supposed disappearance of the OCBD...


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## fallschurch (Apr 7, 2015)

Semi-related note: Hyde Parks go for $49.50, and I purchased my BB 133Q for $50. Best trad deal to be found (other than AE shoe bank shoes) until its phase-out is complete.


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## Tiger (Apr 11, 2010)

fallschurch said:


> Semi-related note: Hyde Parks go for $49.50, and I purchased my BB 133Q for $50. Best trad deal to be found (other than AE shoe bank shoes) until its phase-out is complete.


The Hyde Park is routinely offered at 30% or more price reduction, lowering its price to $35 or less. I also own multiples of the BB shirt you write of, too. I like them both!


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