# Mythical Trousers: Cavalry Twill



## Shaver (May 2, 2012)

This delightful exchange between sskim3 and momsdoc gifted me with the phrase 'mythical pants' - which I have chosen to Anglicise, for pants are underwear in England.
https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?154188-Winter-trousers&p=1467153#post1467153

At any rate I was given to think on the phrase when spilling dessert on one of my pairs of cavalry twill trews at supper recently. A quick dash to the restroom a dab with a damp tissue and presto! No evidence of staining whatsoever. This remarkably versatile cloth is virtually impervious to creasing, hard wearing and durable, possessed of a handsome drape that exudes stylish charm.

A pair of tan coloured cavalry twills can accompany you from country pub to fancy restaurant and be utterly appropriate. Truly an indispensable component of any well dressed man's wardrobe.


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

Shaver said:


> This delightful exchange between sskim3 and momsdoc gifted me with the phrase 'mythical pants' - which I have chosen to Anglicise, for pants are underwear in England.
> https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?154188-Winter-trousers&p=1467153#post1467153
> 
> At any rate I was given to think on the phrase when spilling dessert on one of my pairs of cavalry twill trews at supper recently. A quick dash to the restroom a dab with a damp tissue and presto! No evidence of staining whatsoever. This remarkably versatile cloth is virtually impervious to creasing, hard wearing and durable, possessed of a handsome drape that exudes stylish charm.
> ...


If you succeed in enticing me to e-mail PC one more time, they are going to offer me a job.


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

Problem solved, the fawn is out of stock in my size. Guess they'll have to wait until next Autumn.


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## Shaver (May 2, 2012)

^ https://www.cordings.co.uk/menswear/trousers/cavalry-twill :devil:


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## MTJim (Dec 20, 2012)

I couldn't agree more! Cavalry Twill is a fantastic material for trousers. Oddly enough, I prefer merino wool for my pants.


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

Shaver said:


> ^ https://www.cordings.co.uk/menswear/trousers/cavalry-twill :devil:


Did your mother ever tell you that you're incorrigible?

I'll wait on PC, besides the price difference, Cordings charges £35 to ship vs. £15 for PC. So I have to have a number of items ordered to make it worthwhile. I'm sure with your evil nature, you will find suggestions.


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## Youthful Repp-robate (Sep 26, 2011)

I've found them OTR in a sort of mid-brown color, which, while nice, doesn't seem so wearable as the lighter tan. I'd like a pair quite a bit, but my stone-colored moleskins will have to hold me over for now.

I recall that MacArthur, who hasn't been posting for a while, had a great cavalry twill navy blazer for cooler weather.


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## catside (Oct 7, 2010)

Agree with the virtues of cavalry twill. I did thrift a Yale coop cavalry twill blazer few years back, and wear it regularly in winter. 3/2 sack. I had a Bills trousers alas was tight and had to go. Tried to proxy in their recent sale but apparently there was none, thus now I am in dire need.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

I've looked at cav twill on various occasions but have yet to pull the trigger on a pair. Perhaps a peruse down Hemrajani's fabric list will tempt me into taking action.


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## phyrpowr (Aug 30, 2009)

I got some LLBean "Town & Country" slacks years ago that turned out to be cavalry twill (they don't always have that style, and it's not always the same material). Shaver is correct, a truly fine fabric, suitable for T*&*C. Mine are charcoal grey


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## tocqueville (Nov 15, 2009)

Are these wool or cotton?


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## sskim3 (Jul 2, 2013)

Hate you all! The shopping list will never end!!! Ugh...

I need to be on the look out again. Now if only I had more closet space. The significant other already thinks I shop too much. 

_Posted via *Topify* on Android_


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## VaBeach (Oct 14, 2013)

sskim3 said:


> Hate you all! The shopping list will never end!!! Ugh...
> 
> I need to be on the look out again. Now if only I had more closet space. The significant other already thinks I shop too much.
> 
> _Posted via *Topify* on Android_


If you have a guest room, that closet space is prime real estate.


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

sskim3 said:


> Hate you all! The shopping list will never end!!! Ugh...
> 
> I need to be on the look out again. Now if only I had more closet space. The significant other already thinks I shop too much.
> 
> _Posted via *Topify* on Android_


Resistance is futile.


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## catside (Oct 7, 2010)

tocqueville said:


> Are these wool or cotton?


Wool.


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## sskim3 (Jul 2, 2013)

VaBeach said:


> If you have a guest room, that closet space is prime real estate.





momsdoc said:


> Resistance is futile.


UGH! I need to ask for a raise or a bigger bonus this year. Slim pickings on eBay. May use PC when the time comes.


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

MTJim said:


> I couldn't agree more! Cavalry Twill is a fantastic material for trousers. Oddly enough, I prefer merino wool for my pants.


Do you know any makers who make cavalry twill out of merino wool?


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## RogerP (Oct 31, 2012)

One more thing to add to the buy list.


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

RogerP said:


> One more thing to add to the buy list.


Does that list ever shrink?


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## MTJim (Dec 20, 2012)

No, sorry, I was playing of the British terms trousers and pants. I love wool cavalry twill trousers and merino wool underwear. I've a good source for underwear, but it's hard to find cavalry wool trousers for under $225.00 (the most I will pay).


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Now if only those wool cavalry twill trousers were a washable wool, like that that Pendleton uses in a number of the their shirt and outerwear designs, indeed, all would be well with the world! Such would be the perfect winter standin for our beloved cotton chinos, worn during the summer months.  Seriuosly, would that be asking too much?


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Perhaps if we wrote to Pendleton? As a group? They certainly responded with surprising speed when the question of the venerable Topster came up . . .


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## Shaver (May 2, 2012)

eagle2250 said:


> Now if only those wool cavalry twill trousers were a washable wool, like that that Pendleton uses in a number of the their shirt and outerwear designs, indeed, all would be well with the world! Such would be the perfect winter standin for our beloved cotton chinos, worn during the summer months.  Seriuosly, would that be asking too much?


The joy of the weave, though, is that it is akin to Teflon. Mine have not seen the dry-cleaners yet and I am a very fastidious fellow.


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## Haffman (Oct 11, 2010)

Ede and Ravenscroft is another good supplier.

I echo the sentiments. A smart, versatile trouser that has sadly fallen into general disuse.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

And not unreasonably priced when you deduct the VAT . . . hmmmmmmm . . .


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

Haffman said:


> Ede and Ravenscroft is another good supplier.
> 
> I echo the sentiments. A smart, versatile trouser that has sadly fallen into general disuse.


Ede and Ravenscroft is a fabric merchant? I thought they were a bespoke tailor. Perhaps they are both? Perhaps I am confusing them with somebody else?


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Audi S5 TC said:


> Ede and Ravenscroft is a fabric merchant? I thought they were a bespoke tailor. Perhaps they are both? Perhaps I am confusing them with somebody else?


No, they are a clothing firm that does bespoke tailoring but also carries OTR, as well.


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## Shaver (May 2, 2012)

Haffman said:


> Ede and Ravenscroft is another good supplier.
> 
> I echo the sentiments. A smart, versatile trouser that has sadly fallen into general disuse.


Thank you, my friend, your positive opinion, or general approval, is much appreciated.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Ah, just what I wanted to hear. Since you are the man on the spot, if E&R meets your approval, I may just have to send them an order . . . unless you know of a cav twill supplier that charges even less . . . (he said imitating a small bird 'cheep, cheep' :icon_smile_big


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## Shaver (May 2, 2012)

Oldsarge said:


> Ah, just what I wanted to hear. Since you are the man on the spot, if E&R meets your approval, I may just have to send them an order . . . unless you know of a cav twill supplier that charges even less . . . (he said imitating a small bird 'cheep, cheep' :icon_smile_big


*Ahem* Peter Christian. Not lined - but the fabric can absolutely withstand that.


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

Oldsarge said:


> No, they are a clothing firm that does bespoke tailoring but also carries OTR, as well.


That's what I thought. Thank you, Oldsarge. Good looking out, dog.


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

Shaver said:


> *Ahem* Peter Christian. Not lined - but the fabric can absolutely withstand that.


Damn you Shaver!!!!!!!!!!:icon_smile:

I had to preorder 2 Chino suits with 2 pairs of trousers each because of you. Just for 1 lousy pair of Cav Twills. DAMN YOU!!!!


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## VaBeach (Oct 14, 2013)

momsdoc said:


> Damn you Shaver!!!!!!!!!!:icon_smile:
> 
> I had to preorder 2 Chino suits with 2 pairs of trousers each because of you. Just for 1 lousy pair of Cav Twills. DAMN YOU!!!!


Breath.....


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## fishertw (Jan 27, 2006)

eagle2250 said:


> Now if only those wool cavalry twill trousers were a washable wool, like that that Pendleton uses in a number of the their shirt and outerwear designs, indeed, all would be well with the world! Such would be the perfect winter standin for our beloved cotton chinos, worn during the summer months.  Seriuosly, would that be asking too much?


I've not seen ads for Pendelton wool twill trousers in several years but do have them in both tan and charcoal. They are undoubtedly some of the heartiest trousers I own and hardly wrinkle. Making them in a hard wearing washable wool would be an excellent product.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

So a pair of PC tan cavalry twills are on the way. I may go back and order a pair in Lovat, as well. Now comes the question, do I have suspender buttons sewn to them or just wear them with a belt? We'll see what the Mrs. does about my Christmas wishlist . . .


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## Spex (Nov 25, 2012)

Anyone familiar with something called regiment twill? Are we talking about the same thing here?


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## catside (Oct 7, 2010)

Cavalries are regiments, only some regiments are cavalry :biggrin:


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

Shaver,
All is forgiven. I wore my indigo PC moleskins today in our first snowstorm of the season. They truly are mythical, repelling snow, wind, and the cold, like an impenetrable shield. Plus they looked great with a Harrris tweed and fair isle sweater. I can't wait to see how the Cav Twills match up.


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## sskim3 (Jul 2, 2013)

Piggy backing on this dreadful thread. 

Looking at PC's site, they have moleskin trousers and moleskin suit trousers.


what's the difference between the two? (could be a really dumb question, my apologies in advance)

And then came across this: 

Is the moleskin jacket worth it??? 

The cavalry twill is definitely a great looking pair of trousers though. 

And wtf is a drill jean?


Shaver - I hate you..... Please don't recommend other places to shop. Are you getting a cut from all these sales???


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

sskim3 said:


> Piggy backing on this dreadful thread.
> 
> Looking at PC's site, they have moleskin trousers and moleskin suit trousers.
> 
> ...


Personally, I was afraid to ask him about the drill jeans. He's caused enough damage already.

By all means please do try the moleskin jacket. I have been curious about it.


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## West Coast Clothes Fan (Dec 10, 2012)

Shaver is a bad influence but am happy to have read his reviews as I am wearing a PC twill cavalry pair on my way to the Midwest. Thank God I came across this site....


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## Langham (Nov 7, 2012)

Cavalry twill has to be the right weight of cloth - not the itchy variety - and not cut so that it is too flappy about the legs. Usually it comes in a tan colour, which is all right, but there is another (to my mind superior) colour known as drab, a mushroom-grey colour. Among the virtues of cavalry twill is its ability to emerge unscathed having passed sideways through a thorn hedge, while lesser fabrics would be torn to shreds.


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

Langham said:


> Cavalry twill has to be the right weight of cloth - not the itchy variety - and not cut so that it is too flappy about the legs. Usually it comes in a tan colour, which is all right, but there is another (to my mind superior) colour known as drab, a mushroom-grey colour. Among the virtues of cavalry twill is its ability to emerge unscathed having passed sideways through a thorn hedge, while lesser fabrics would be torn to shreds.


I would prefer gray to beige for this Cavallry twill fabric. And it has to be an English fabric in 100% wool (FWIW, Cavallry twill looks worsted to me, but maybe that's just me).

Also, the weight has to be in the 13 to 20 ounce range with a lower than super 100s thread count.


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

Audi S5 TC said:


> I would prefer gray to beige for this Cavallry twill fabric. And it has to be an English fabric in 100% wool (FWIW, Cavallry twill looks worsted to me, but maybe that's just me).
> 
> Also, the weight has to be in the 13 to 20 ounce range with a lower than super 100s thread count.


Does grey in a cavalry twill give that same washed out look many have complained about with khakis?


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## Langham (Nov 7, 2012)

Audi S5 TC said:


> I would prefer gray to beige for this Cavallry twill fabric. And it has to be an English fabric in 100% wool (FWIW, Cavallry twill looks worsted to me, but maybe that's just me).
> 
> Also, the weight has to be in the 13 to 20 ounce range with a lower than super 100s thread count.


The colour I was trying to describe is called fawn. Avoid any cavalry twill that is not 100% wool. I believe it is a kind of worsted, although to describe it as worsted is not really doing it justice. It comes in different weights, but usually around 700 g/sm.



momsdoc said:


> Does grey in a cavalry twill give that same washed out look many have complained about with khakis?


It doesn't fade, if that's what you're asking. Fawn is a muted colour.


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## Shaver (May 2, 2012)

momsdoc said:


> Shaver,
> All is forgiven. I wore my indigo PC moleskins today in our first snowstorm of the season. They truly are mythical, repelling snow, wind, and the cold, like an impenetrable shield. Plus they looked great with a Harrris tweed and fair isle sweater. I can't wait to see how the Cav Twills match up.


I'm pleased that you are pleased and assure you the cavalry twills will not disappoint, as my esteemed colleague Mr Langham points out they are as sturdy as one could possibly dare to expect from woolen trousers.


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## Shaver (May 2, 2012)

sskim3 said:


> Piggy backing on this dreadful thread.
> 
> Looking at PC's site, they have moleskin trousers and moleskin suit trousers.
> 
> ...


As far as I know (and it seems entirely reasonable to presume) the suit trousers are merely the regular trousers but which match the two moleskin jacket colours available. However I have never liked the look of moleskin jackets, but merely my personal preferance.

Drill jeans are, as our retired moderator Mr Balfour was fond of saying, 'gentleman's jeans' - if you like the cut of jeans (I do not) then this is a far classier alternative: all of the benefits and none of the drawbacks of the wretched denim material.


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

Shaver said:


> As far as I know (and it seems entirely reasonable to presume) the suit trousers are merely the regular trousers but which match the two moleskin jacket colours available. However I have never liked the look of moleskin jackets, but merely my personal preferance.
> 
> Drill jeans are, as our retired moderator Mr Balfour was fond of saying, 'gentleman's jeans' - if you like the cut of jeans (I do not) then this is a far classier alternative: all of the benefits and none of the drawbacks of the wretched denim material.


I'm sorley dissapointed. Where's the wit? Did you forget your tea this morning?

What is it about the moleskin jacket you do not like?

Do you agree that PCs chino suit jackets are able to be worn as an odd SC in the summer without looking like an orphaned suit jacket. Presuming as much I adjusted my order to only 1 pair of trousers each, as I would expect most of the wear to be with mismatched Khakis in various contrasting shades or colors.

I am not interested in the cut of a jeans style pant(or underwear).

BTW as far as PCs Cav Twills go, they are half the price of Cordings. Is that a reflection on their quality or Cordings exorbitant pricing? I found the PC products to be top drawer, as are Cordings. With the exception of my Covert coat, I have not found the small increase in Cordings quality to justify the huge price differential. And their shipping costs to the US are insane.


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## dks202 (Jun 20, 2008)

I have to chime in on my super wool uniform pants. They are a heavy serge wool that I would call very close to cavalry twill. They don't cut, tear, or stain and they hold a nice crease. They also help you run faster than a speeding locomotive and you can leap tall buildings in a single bound. The only problem is only a single color, LAPD blue, and for civilian dress are the two "sap" pockets on the legs but the pants are so dark they are hard to notice.


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## MTJim (Dec 20, 2012)

Peter Christian sells size 42WX28L, but no 34WX36L. Bastards!


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## Haffman (Oct 11, 2010)

Oldsarge said:


> Ah, just what I wanted to hear. Since you are the man on the spot, if E&R meets your approval, I may just have to send them an order . . . unless you know of a cav twill supplier that charges even less . . . (he said imitating a small bird 'cheep, cheep' :icon_smile_big


They're certainly not cheap but I liked these trousers so much that I paid full price for them, which for me is something of a rareity ! They are reassuringly thick twill but breathe very well too. Just the job.

Not sure about other options - I have E&R locally so that's why I went there. Cordings ?


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## Haffman (Oct 11, 2010)

Shaver said:


> Thank you, my friend, your positive opinion, or general approval, is much appreciated.


Given with pleasure. For once I am glad that you made a recommendation for something I already had -- as I'm usually reaching for the chequebook when you start on with your golden words about a sartorial something or other ! Nice to give the bank balance a rest:smile:


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## Shaver (May 2, 2012)

Haffman said:


> Given with pleasure. For once I am glad that you made a recommendation for something I already had -- as I'm usually reaching for the chequebook when you start on with your golden words about a sartorial something or other ! Nice to give the bank balance a rest:smile:


I'm currently awaiting delivery of my fifth Equus belt, if that tempts you at all.... :devil:


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## Haffman (Oct 11, 2010)

Shaver said:


> I'm currently awaiting delivery of my fifth Equus belt, if that tempts you at all.... :devil:


I await your photos, your review.....and then the inevitable on my part....


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## SlideGuitarist (Apr 23, 2013)

fishertw said:


> I've not seen ads for Pendelton wool twill trousers in several years but do have them in both tan and charcoal. They are undoubtedly some of the heartiest trousers I own and hardly wrinkle. Making them in a hard wearing washable wool would be an excellent product.


Are these the wool twills in question--https://www.pendleton-usa.com/produ...ER-TROUSERS/171305/sc/1761/c/1761/pc/1814.uts? I can't tell from the thumbnails if these are twill at all.


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## SlideGuitarist (Apr 23, 2013)

SlideGuitarist said:


> Are these the wool twills in question? I can't tell from the thumbnails if these are twill at all.


Ah, click the "+" button a few times! These don't seem to be twill.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

No, they _look _like a flannel but the splurb says they're "rugged". I emailed Customer Service for clarification about the durability (brush/thorn resistance). Watch. This. Spot.


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## catside (Oct 7, 2010)

Won a pair of NWT Bills. Let's see how this will turn out.


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## Youthful Repp-robate (Sep 26, 2011)

Not to put temptation in the path of some members, but Mears has MTM cavalry twills for a little under 120 pounds, with VAT. I know they were one of the makers Bookster used -- whether they made up trousers for Bookster, I can't say.


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## jsbrugg (Nov 16, 2011)

I'm trying to understand what makes cavalry twill different from other twills. Is it just the weight of the fabric or is there some other property? I just happened to come across some "cavalry" twill trousers by Hart Schaffner Marx online yesterday and I wasn't sure what to make of the fact that cavalry was in quotes.


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

jsbrugg said:


> I'm trying to understand what makes cavalry twill different from other twills. Is it just the weight of the fabric or is there some other property? I just happened to come across some "cavalry" twill trousers by Hart Schaffner Marx online yesterday and I wasn't sure what to make of the fact that cavalry was in quotes.


Cavalry twill is a specific weave. It looks like a double rib and it's typically very heavy, though there are lighter weights made now. You can see examples here:


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Oldsarge said:


> No, they _look _like a flannel but the splurb says they're "rugged". I emailed Customer Service for clarification about the durability (brush/thorn resistance). Watch. This. Spot.


"Dear Sarge,

Thank you for contacting Pendleton Catalog. Out of the options that you describe, our Walker Trousers (item 51914) best fit the "casual weekender trouser" category. These trousers are quite durable, but may not hold up to punctures and scrapes very well.

Sincerely,
Laura Schuchardt
Pendleton Catalog Customer Service"

So as we can see, they are not up to the kind of service expected from cavalry twill. Drat.


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## StephenRG (Apr 7, 2005)

Haffman said:


> full price


I'm unfamiliar with the meaning of this term


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

My grandfather, a fastidious dresser to be sure, would agree.


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## dks202 (Jun 20, 2008)

You're not going to believe this, but.... Since my pal Shaver started this discussion on cavalry twill I decided I had to have them. I once owned a pair many years ago and I don't remember what happened to them. I searched every online store I could and I couldn't find any in my price range (under $200), Ben Silver is $295. Today at lunchtime I happened to be in the area of a resale store I might drop into maybe two or three times a year. I decided to check it out not necessarily for cavalry twill but anything nice. I found a pair of NEW, NEW, did I say NEW (?) Brooks Brothers cavalry twill trousers, double pleated with cuffs, in my perfect size. No tailoring needed. Price was $35! All of this in the last hour. 
Deep brown color as on top of photo.


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## VaBeach (Oct 14, 2013)

Shaver said:


> I'm currently awaiting delivery of my fifth Equus belt, if that tempts you at all.... :devil:


And I await my first......and wait......and wait. Shipping from the UK is murder.


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## sskim3 (Jul 2, 2013)

dks202 said:


> You're not going to believe this, but.... Since my pal Shaver started this discussion on cavalry twill I decided I had to have them. I once owned a pair many years ago and I don't remember what happened to them. I searched every online store I could and I couldn't find any in my price range (under $200), Ben Silver is $295. Today at lunchtime I happened to be in the area of a resale store I might drop into maybe two or three times a year. I decided to check it out not necessarily for cavalry twill but anything nice. I found a pair of NEW, NEW, did I say NEW (?) Brooks Brothers cavalry twill trousers, double pleated with cuffs, in my perfect size. No tailoring needed. Price was $35! All of this in the last hour.
> Deep brown color as on top of photo.
> 
> View attachment 9639


I am soooo tempted to ask you to act as a proxy to pick me up a pair.  hmmm......


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## Tempest (Aug 16, 2012)

So, being a crisp finish and not something fuzzy, would this or would it not pair well with the more rugged of tweeds?


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

I'm not sure. You could claim to be going for contrast, that always works as an argument.


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## Youthful Repp-robate (Sep 26, 2011)

The cav twills I've seen have been pretty hefty. Not fuzzy, but not wimpy. They're closer to denim than to gabardine, in my book.


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## catside (Oct 7, 2010)

The Bills arrived and are much less substantial than my previous pair, more like twill gabardine. Can not recommend them as cavalry twill altouh they are a fine pair of pants.


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## VaBeach (Oct 14, 2013)

VaBeach said:


> And I await my first......and wait......and wait. Shipping from the UK is murder.


I received the belt today- black with nickel polished buckle and a very simple work of art. Thanks Shaver!


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## dks202 (Jun 20, 2008)

sskim3 said:


> I am soooo tempted to ask you to act as a proxy to pick me up a pair.  hmmm......


That was it. Only one pair or I would be happy to help. It's a consignment shop. Hit or miss.


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## Shaver (May 2, 2012)

VaBeach said:


> I received the belt today- black with nickel polished buckle and a very simple work of art. Thanks Shaver!


Always a pleasure to assist. Those sand cast nickel buckles are just delightful aren't they?


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## Langham (Nov 7, 2012)

Haffman said:


> They're certainly not cheap but I liked these trousers so much that I paid full price for them, which for me is something of a rareity ! They are reassuringly thick twill but breathe very well too. Just the job.
> 
> Not sure about other options - I have E&R locally so that's why I went there. Cordings ?


As I happened to be in Oxford at the weekend I also went to E&R. I have to say, their cavalry twills were not quite as I remembered them from years ago - lighter in weight and somehow different in feel, almost a little shiny. A rather hipsterish cut too.


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## fishertw (Jan 27, 2006)

SlideGuitarist said:


> Are these the wool twills in question--https://www.pendleton-usa.com/produ...ER-TROUSERS/171305/sc/1761/c/1761/pc/1814.uts? I can't tell from the thumbnails if these are twill at all.


These look more like flannel than the somewhat harder finish that Pendelton produced several years ago.


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## Haffman (Oct 11, 2010)

Langham said:


> As I happened to be in Oxford at the weekend I also went to E&R. I have to say, their cavalry twills were not quite as I remembered them from years ago - lighter in weight and somehow different in feel, almost a little shiny. A rather hipsterish cut too.


What is a hipsterish cut ? I quite like the idea of being a hipster but maybe I won't when you explain.


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## VaBeach (Oct 14, 2013)

Shaver said:


> Always a pleasure to assist. Those sand cast nickel buckles are just delightful aren't they?


They are the cats meow. The belt is thinner than I would prefer (1" vs. 1 1/8") but is magnificent. I emailed Charlie and he told me that the belt is cut to fit the buckle and I could return it if I chose. I will keep it and for the next one have him go an 1/8" to 1/4" wider. Very pleased and true to size.


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## Langham (Nov 7, 2012)

Haffman said:


> What is a hipsterish cut ? I quite like the idea of being a hipster but maybe I won't when you explain.


Hipster trousers were worn in (of course) the 60s - it was the way the E&R waistband seemed to sit on my hips when I tried them on that reminded me of a pair I had when I was 10 or 11. I thought they seemed good value for £90 but just not what I had expected.


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## WICaniac (Sep 25, 2013)

Apologies for the bump, but it's getting chilly, and I'm in the market for some cavalry twill trousers. Peter Christian only sells them in odd-numbered inseam lengths (which is, indeed, odd). Does anyone have any fit advice on their trousers? Or updated recommendations on economically-priced alternatives?


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Hm, I'm bookmarking that website. They seem to be a decent, affordable supplier of britches. And considering Shaver likes them, I'm probably in good company. I only wish the cavalry twills came in plain, forward pleat, or darted front.


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## Shaver (May 2, 2012)

I'm wearing PC cav twills this very moment, see image below. 

WICaniac, do as I always do: purchase the longest length PC offer and then have a tailor work on them, in this way you can achieve either a guardsman or cuffed hem to the exact length required.

Jovan, several of our American members have purchased PC's cav twills and all of them have reported favourably on cut, quality and above all the very reasonable cost.


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

I have a 291/2 inseam. I purchase the PC in 35 inseam, and in 33. Both leave enough material for cuffs. If you're not sure if you want straight hems you then have the ability to choose post purchase.

My only complaint about the PC cav twills is that they only come in two colors, so I have no more to buy.


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## Chillburgher (Mar 19, 2014)

Could Shaver, Momsdoc or any other owner of PC trousers provide me with any insight into the "hidden elastic inserts which expand or relax"? My concern is that the expanding waist might not be compatible with braces/suspenders. 

Thanks in advance.


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

Here are pics of the inside waistband. The elastic portion is about 2 1/2inches long and set back from the center fastening button 5 inches leaving room to install brace buttons on the inside edge. If you install them on the outer edge than the twill on the outside has a slot that the waistband moves thru. The stitching would have to be done just thru the inner layer to allow the expansion flap to slide within the slot.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

And that is a modification that a reasonably dextrous person can make at home. I'm waiting with longing for the temperature to drop enough that I might once again start wearing mine.


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## Chillburgher (Mar 19, 2014)

momsdoc said:


> Here are pics of the inside waistband. The elastic portion is about 2 1/2inches long and set back from the center fastening button 5 inches leaving room to install brace buttons on the inside edge. If you install them on the outer edge than the twill on the outside has a slot that the waistband moves thru. The stitching would have to be done just thru the inner layer to allow the expansion flap to slide within the slot.


Thanks for the reply. I'm not a reasonably dextrous person, but my tailor is, so it sounds like it can be done. Worth a try for sure.


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## Shaver (May 2, 2012)

momsdoc said:


> Here are pics of the inside waistband. The elastic portion is about 2 1/2inches long and set back from the center fastening button 5 inches leaving room to install brace buttons on the inside edge. If you install them on the outer edge than the twill on the outside has a slot that the waistband moves thru. The stitching would have to be done just thru the inner layer to allow the expansion flap to slide within the slot.


There are (to my knowledge) two versions of the waistband. One is the configuration just as momsdoc has posted and the other is a segment for which one end of the point of attachment is wholly concealed within the waistband, shuttling in and out as required.


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## WICaniac (Sep 25, 2013)

Thanks, all, for the helpful responses!


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

Shaver,
How cute, we're both wearing the same pants today. I hope you have better weather.


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## Haffman (Oct 11, 2010)

Shaver I must be experiencing some sort of malfunction on my iPhone because your laces look frayed at the end in the photo and that is incompatible with my mental image of you!:eek2:

I shall request a replacement phone immediately.


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## Shaver (May 2, 2012)

momsdoc said:


> Shaver,
> How cute, we're both wearing the same pants today. I hope you have better weather.


We had the tail end of some blasted American hurricane, three hairs on my pomaded head were blown out of place!

Good for you though, cavalry twill is a firm indicator of a man who knows and cares about clothing.


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## Shaver (May 2, 2012)

Haffman said:


> Shaver I must be experiencing some sort of malfunction on my iPhone because your laces look frayed at the end in the photo and that is incompatible with my mental image of you!:eek2:
> 
> I shall request a replacement phone immediately.


I am fastidious it is true, however I also prefer to gain the maximum possible usage from an item. Waste not want not and all that malarkey.

I shall be certain to have new laces installed at the next re-sole, though. I shall tell them Haffers sent me.


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## tocqueville (Nov 15, 2009)

I love my pc cavs, but i've been wondering: does the texture make it unsuitable for sport coats and blazers (not tweeds or similar textured stuff that obviously would be fine)? Can i use cav twill as a substitute for my gabardines and other worsteds in my winter office rotation, or must i save them for relatively more casual wear?


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## Shaver (May 2, 2012)

tocqueville said:


> I love my pc cavs, but i've been wondering: does the texture make it unsuitable for sport coats and blazers (not tweeds or similar textured stuff that obviously would be fine)? Can i use cav twill as a substitute for my gabardines and other worsteds in my winter office rotation, or must i save them for relatively more casual wear?


I consider them as eminently suitable for wear with a sports jacket.

I can feel a contribution to WAYWT coming on..........


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

I feel as comfortable pairing them with my navy gaberdine blazer, as my doeskin, cashmere, or flannel blazers. I reserve them for Fall and Winter. They are great with tweeds from the more finely milled to a particularly hefty, rough Harris tweed.

As an aside, I've noted my Harris tweeds from the US are a lighter weight than those from PC and The Scotland Kilt Company. The one I purchased from The Harris Tweed Store was so heavy as to be suitable for industrial furniture, and had to be returned. Is this a common finding to be expected between Uk tweeds and American produced ones?


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## Reuben (Aug 28, 2013)

I'll be wearing a pair of charcoal cavalry twills with a navy blazer to attend a wedding tomorrow, I expect they'll be none the worse for spending some time in a suitcase.


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## momsdoc (Sep 19, 2013)

Where did you find a grey cav twill? I'm looking for a grey, a navy, and a dark brown.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Good question. Curious minds want to know . . .


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## Roycru (Apr 13, 2011)

Around ten years ago, I got some Hebden Cord taupe Cavalry Twill trousers. They look like this inside. The waistband includes two rubber-like strips, probably to help overactive people keep their shirts tucked in.


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## Reuben (Aug 28, 2013)

momsdoc said:


> Where did you find a grey cav twill? I'm looking for a grey, a navy, and a dark brown.





Oldsarge said:


> Good question. Curious minds want to know . . .


The trad thrift exchange, from Wacolo. Cabela's I think?


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## Concordia (Sep 30, 2004)

Cavalry twill also makes a fine topcoat-- a durable, lightweight option that is more elegant (and can be had in more colors) than a Burberry SB. The only real problem is that it develops shiny spots after a time.


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## Charles Dana (Nov 20, 2006)

momsdoc said:


> Where did you find a grey cav twill? I'm looking for a grey, a navy, and a dark brown.


O'connell's
Ben Silver
Patrick James, possibly


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## Tempest (Aug 16, 2012)

I must now confirm that Shaver is correct, as I was rather upset with a mystery stain that occurred on Thanksgiving on my cavalry twills that had been worn very little since the last cleaning. A few days later, I dabbed a little water on the stain and ran a nail brush back and forth a few times, and splashed a few more drops on and hoped for the best. I was expecting at least some water ring or fabric distortion, but there is no trace of anything whatsoever. I'm quite pleased.


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## peterc (Oct 25, 2007)

Picked up a pair of really nice tan ones, POLO RL, at Macy's recently, heavily discounted, $177.00 all in.

Really like cav. twill.

Had a pair of USA made J Crew ones, w/ forward pleats, at one point. Bought in about 1996/7. Wore them for about 8 years. Amazing pants. I still have the USA made J. Crew 3-button USA made moleskin blazer I bought in Pasadenia in 1995. It still fits me; its a 42R - which tells you a little bit about the slimming and size manipulation of menswear these days.


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