# Gabardine vs. Twill



## wvuguy (May 29, 2006)

In reading up on these two in Andy's Encyclopedia, they appear virtually synonymous. But, the two terms/descriptions obviously exist for a reason. So, what in the heck is the difference ??? 

Is this, perhaps, one of those cases where all gabardines are twills, but all twills aren't necessarily gabardines ???


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## Roger (Feb 18, 2005)

Well, I was wrestling with this distinction a while ago on this forum. All gabardines (whether wool or cotton) have a pronounced twill appearance; they _are_ twills. However, there are ways in which gabardine differs from non-gabardine twill weaves. Some will tell you that a gabardine is a harder finish than usual, arising from more tightly-twisted threads. One source indicates that gabardines have twice the number of threads in the warp as in the weft, thus leading to a more pronounced ridge, if you like, for the warp direction, this appearing as a more prominent twill. I'm not sure whether the latter is generally true, but all seem to agree that a gabardine is a particularly hard-wearing, hard-finished twill weave, although not necessarily a larger-scale twill like a cavalry twill.


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## pt4u67 (Apr 27, 2006)

My understanding is that twill is a type of weave of which gabardine is one kind.

p.s. Roger beat me to the punch with a much better explanation.


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## Bob Loblaw (Mar 9, 2006)

This explains it well:
https://askandyaboutclothes.com/Tutorials/AlexShirtFabrics.htm


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## guitone (Mar 20, 2005)

Showing my ignorance here, I always thought gabardine was a light weight wool....so what the heck are my gabardine wool slacks?


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## Concordia (Sep 30, 2004)

Gabardine is a fine, light twill that is also usually made of wool.

Not all light wool makes gabardine.

Not all twills are gabardine.


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## Roger (Feb 18, 2005)

Concordia said:


> Gabardine is a fine, light twill that is also usually made of wool.
> 
> Not all light wool makes gabardine.
> 
> Not all twills are gabardine.


Well, Alex's treatise on shirting fabrics referenced by Bob Loblaw makes it clear that cotton gabardine is prominent as well as the wool variety. I've not run into the suggestion that gabardine is either _fine_ or _light_, but rather that it is hard-wearing and sturdy, often with a hard surface texture--and, of course, always with a very pronounced twill appearance.


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## Concordia (Sep 30, 2004)

A matter of emphasis and context. Wool gabardine is generally a lot finer than many woolen twills-- whipcord, cavalry twill, etc. Certainly weights vary from 8 oz up to 12 oz and beyond. But it's unusual to see it in 15oz like some of the trouserings with twill weaves. And is is not usually coarse or rough.

A cotton twill, while potentially much finer than a wool twill, can nevertheless be much heavier than typical shirt fabric.


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## Gruto (Jul 5, 2004)

Originally, gabardine was a special weav, that is, neither plain nor twill. Today weavers reach the gabardine appearence through a twill weave with special types of warp and weft.


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## A Questionable Gentleman (Jun 16, 2006)

So, it would be safe to say that both are ribbed for your pleasure?


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## bigbris1 (Jan 24, 2007)

Bob Loblaw said:


> This explains it well:
> https://askandyaboutclothes.com/Tutorials/AlexShirtFabrics.htm


This link was extremely informative, thank you.


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## CTucker (Feb 5, 2016)

wvuguy said:


> In reading up on these two in Andy's Encyclopedia, they appear virtually synonymous. But, the two terms/descriptions obviously exist for a reason. So, what in the heck is the difference ???
> 
> Is this, perhaps, one of those cases where all gabardines are twills, but all twills aren't necessarily gabardines ???


What I understand is, is a type of weave (2/1, 3/1, etc.) and refers to the fabrics manufactured with twill weave.


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## jd202 (Feb 16, 2016)

A Questionable Gentleman said:


> So, it would be safe to say that both are ribbed for your pleasure?


Nice one, Garth.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

""A strong, hard-finished, clear-surfaced, medium­ to heavy-weight, tightly woven steep-twilled fabric with rounded wales and a flat back. The diagonal wales are fine, close, and steep, and are more pronounced than in serge. The wales cannot be seen on the wrong side of the fabric. Gabardine goes in and out of fash­ion."

https://www.fabricdictionary.com/search.php

""Stepped twill derived twill weave formed from reinforced and stitched t. by the plotting in the weaving structure of every second, third or fourth thread to create a two-, three- or four-step t. with angled, reinforced rows. The weave is used in cotton, silk and woollen fabrics, the best known of which are corduroy and gabardine."

https://en.texsite.info/Stepped_twill


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## Adelantado (Nov 23, 2013)

I love wool gabardines. It's my go-to trouser...


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