# Sartorial Videos



## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Turnbull & Asser: a Guide to Bespoke Shirt making -






The History of James Bond at Turnbull & Asser -


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

The legendary Angus Cundy on Savile Row's Henry Poole -






And his son, and successor, Simon -


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

I know I just posted this video in a different thread, but I think the content significant enough to merit inclusion here for record.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

On choosing cloth -


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

The drape cut by Thomas Mahon, Part I -






And part II -


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

How much a suit can be altered -


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> How much a suit can be altered -


Great video. The answer to "how much can a suit be altered?" is: "not much".


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Matt S said:


> Great video. The answer to "how much can a suit be altered?" is: "not much".


+1.

Whenever I read concerns of those having lost or gained very substantial amounts of weight wishing to drastically alter existing tailored clothing, I wince.


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## 16412 (Apr 1, 2005)

Desmond Merrion, a fine tailor


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Review of TLB Mallorca museum calf -


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> Review of TLB Mallorca museum calf -


You video selection for today fit right into my wheelhouse. Watching an episode of The Elegant Oxford is always an informative and entertaining experience! I really enjoyed that.....thank you.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> You video selection for today fit right into my wheelhouse. Watching an episode of The Elegant Oxford is always an informative and entertaining experience! I really enjoyed that.....thank you.


Very welcome, sit!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Making an Akubra fur felt hat -


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Flanderian said:


> I know I just posted this video in a different thread, but I think the content significant enough to merit inclusion here for record.


A postscript to the above video on Bridlen, this video shows them being made. While acknowledging that a skilled producer can produce what is essentially video advertising making anything look great, it does look like these shoes are pretty carefully made, though not likely one a time by a single shoemaker. And based upon the eye test, remarkable at their prices.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Thomas Mahon explains the term balance for a bespoke suit -


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Review of CNES shoes -


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Younger and stylish with a fondness for string bracelets and tattoos, Luca demonstrates that for tailored clothing, ill fitting and extreme is not stylish.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Review -

TLB Mallorca; Best Value Goodyear Welted Shoe?


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> Review -
> 
> TLB Mallorca; Best Value Goodyear Welted Shoe?


Another great video....it both entertains and educates the viewer. Thanks!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> Another great video....it both entertains and educates the viewer. Thanks!


Very welcome, sir! 👍

That is my intent.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Making a suit at Anderson and Sheppard -


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Review: Carmina Shell -


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> Review: Carmina Shell -


Great video...I love shell cordovan, I love long wings, and I love The Elegant Oxfords you tube videos. They are entertaining and always educational! Thank you for sharing.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> Great video...I love shell cordovan, I love long wings, and I love The Elegant Oxfords you tube videos. They are entertaining and always educational! Thank you for sharing.


Very welcome, sir!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Cutting a Shetland Tweed Jacket, by Thomas Mahon -






And the finished product -


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Review of Herring shoes made by Cheaney -


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Cordings and the Tweed Run -






How Eric Clapton rescued tweed! irate:


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

These two video reviews are reviews of the Yeossal brand of shoes. These shoes are the result of collaboration between the Singapore retailer Yeossal and Oriental shoe makers from Japan.

The first video is from The Elegant Oxford, and the second from Justin Fitzpatrick. They are both excellent, but the first one contains an unfortunate fundamental misstatement regarding an essential difference in construction between hand welted and Goodyear welted shoes. It states the difference is the difference between handsewn and machine sewn, and while that is *one* significant difference, there's another, perhaps even more significant one: Hand welted shoes are made by using a thicker insole into which the shoemaker hand cuts a lip to which the welt is sewn. Whereas Goodyear welted shoes have a rib of canvas, sometimes called the feather, glued to an insole or more rarely midsole, and the welt is then sewn to it.

There's been a great deal of debate as to the merit or detriments of each method. But irrespectively, it is a fundamental distinction in making.











Edit: Finished shoe trees look better, but I've found the unfinished variety to work better.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Leonard Logsdail's story -


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> Leonard Logsdail's story -


I cannot imagine anyone being able to watch the video above and not come out of it as a fan of Leonard Logsdail's . The sartorial world is a better place because all those early employers fired Logsdail, to the point that he eventually struck out on his own. The simplicity of his business philosophy is it's genius!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> I cannot imagine anyone being able to watch the video above and not come out of it as a fan of Leonard Logsdail's . The sartorial world is a better place because all those early employers fired Logsdail, to the point that he eventually struck out on his own. The simplicity of his business philosophy is it's genius!


+1!

And he's cut some very handsome clothing. 👍


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Thomas Mahon visits mercers Dugdale Bros. an essential component of the bespoke trade -


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Review of J. Fitzpatrick shoes -


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Luca say ciao!


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## 16412 (Apr 1, 2005)

In one of the Mahon - Dugdales videos, the weave comes up. Mahon mentions a little bit about sewing fewer pad stitches and probably some others. This depends on the purpose of what is wanted- purpose of achievement. And machine stitches kill opportunity of the iron. In the old days every stitch was pushed through with a thimble. Tailors were paid by the stitch and not by a general price. This is why poor people could go to a bespoke tailor. Rich people, not only got more stitches, if they wanted them, they also bought more clothes. Big cities gave room for specialist. The country tailor made whatever he could so he wouldn't have to plant potatoes, etc., to earn a living. How many of these small time tailors are still around? Some of these tailors are very good. Some understand why we wear clothes. (SR are statues clothes- snob.) (And, only the rich could buy fashions. That is where fashions come from.) Whatever tailor is chosen, pick one that can fit you well, no matter what the price is (higher price doesn't always mean better). Second, pick good cloth. That means the weave is 90 degrees, not even slightly off. Over time off bias weave will cause the clothes to fit poorly and look unpleasant, not to mention, become uncomfortable and, not last long.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

*R rated* for profanity. Do not play if offended by same. Mods, please delete if you deem it inappropriate.

My former tailor's, former shop. Very different clientele!  Rented as location set after his retirement and its closure.

How many times I stood in front of that 3-way mirror, or went behind the frosted glass partition to try on trousers! How many $$$ I left there! 

Bespoke is addictive.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

The two videos below are complimentary in their content. The top one is a discussion by Simon Crompton of his experiences in the differences between English and Neapolitan tailoring. And as you likely know, he has amassed a lot of experience.

The second is a presentation by Luca Rubinacci (In Italian so we can all practice our language skills! ) which, if you will bear with the subtitles ,is well worth the effort. Interesting too because the origin of The House of Rubinacci, a founder of the Neapolitan cut, stems from Luca's granpa Genaro who transported London style to Naples in the '30's, and reinterpreted it for the Neapolitan climate and tastes. So when Simon is talking about the traditional English cut, it's actually what's current fashion, rather at other times in its history.

I think the each tradition has much to offer, and while minimalist, the Rubinacci suit is rather spectacular in its own terms.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

For fans of Cheaney shoes. Which this somewhat older video taught me is pronounced *Cheeney* rather than *Chainey *as I had been mispronouncing it. Long owned by Church's, it was purchased a number of years ago by brothers from the Church family when Church's was sold to Prada.

Long a solid mid-quality English shoe, while still largely conservative, they have moved upmarket both in terms of quality and price. Nothing ever wrong with them, but finish and materials have gotten even a bit better. I consider myself blessed to have 3 pair, and they are particularly handsome, comfortable, beautifully made traditional English shoes.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> For fans of Cheaney shoes. Which this somewhat older video taught me is pronounced *Cheeney* rather than *Chainey *as I had been mispronouncing it. Long owned by Church's, it was purchased a number of years ago by brothers from the Church family when Church's was sold to Prada.
> 
> Long a solid mid-quality English shoe, while still largely conservative, they have moved upmarket both in terms of quality and price. Nothing ever wrong with them, but finish and materials have gotten even a bit better. I consider myself blessed to have 3 pair, and they are particularly handsome, comfortable, beautifully made traditional English shoes.


Another great video. True to my nature as 'The Manic Shoe Shopper', I do seem to more greatly enjoy the shoe construction/care/sales videos over the others dealing with garment construction, etc. As you confessed above, I too have been mispronouncing Cheaney shoes since I first became aware of them. I've greatly enjoyed the pair(s) on my shoe racks.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> Another great video. True to my nature as 'The Manic Shoe Shopper', I do seem to more greatly enjoy the shoe construction/care/sales videos over the others dealing with garment construction, etc. As you confessed above, I too have been mispronouncing Cheaney shoes since I first became aware of them. I've greatly enjoyed the pair(s) on my shoe racks.


Glad you like them, I thoroughly enjoy them too! But for the sake of broader interest attempt to interleave them with clips on tailoring, for those with other interests.

A pair of Cheaney orphans on your shoe rack!? 

Good heavens, it's never to late to acquire siblings!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Edward Sexton, The Bepoke Gnome!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Herring brand boots -


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

The drape cut. The golden age of male dress Four elegant and knowledgeable men, intimate with the creation and perpetuation of what I like to think of as relaxed elegance.

Edit: IMHO, the title is unfortunate. The video is far better than its title, taken from a display of that name which IMO obscures the significance of its content to those with sartorial interests.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

J. Fitzpatrick review of Carlos Santos boots -


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

50 year old Harris Tweed -


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> 50 year old Harris Tweed -


A garment may eventually reach the end f it's useful life, but the mighty Tweed never dies! It is simply resurrected as a new garment.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> A garment may eventually reach the end f it's useful life, but the mighty Tweed never dies! It is simply resurrected as a new garment.


The sartorial Rock of Ages. 👍


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## medhat (Jan 15, 2006)

Fashion porn at it's best! Question for the crowd (@Matt S you may serve as a reference for the answer). In one of the early videos re Turnbull & Asser and their association with James Bond, there's a scene included with Daniel Craig in Casino Royale, wearing a tux and looking in the mirror. I _don't_ believe the tux is T&A (but I think the shirt is), that it's either full bespoke or fully-altered Tom Ford (I've seen reference to Brioni but I think that era ended with Pierce Brosnan). In either case, an I may be in a very minority opinion here, but I actually don't care for the fit of the jacket (on Craig). Not crazy about the shoulders (I understand minimal padding due to his physique, but I'd prefer an absolutely smooth shoulder line), and the area below the sleevehead "dimples" on the sleeve like it was RTW. Then again, if I were to take an expanded view I think much of what is fitted to Craig/Bond is a bit shrink-wrapped. Am I overreacting?


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

medhat said:


> Fashion porn at it's best! Question for the crowd (@Matt S you may serve as a reference for the answer). In one of the early videos re Turnbull & Asser and their association with James Bond, there's a scene included with Daniel Craig in Casino Royale, wearing a tux and looking in the mirror. I _don't_ believe the tux is T&A (but I think the shirt is), that it's either full bespoke or fully-altered Tom Ford (I've seen reference to Brioni but I think that era ended with Pierce Brosnan). In either case, an I may be in a very minority opinion here, but I actually don't care for the fit of the jacket (on Craig). Not crazy about the shoulders (I understand minimal padding due to his physique, but I'd prefer an absolutely smooth shoulder line), and the area below the sleevehead "dimples" on the sleeve like it was RTW. Then again, if I were to take an expanded view I think much of what is fitted to Craig/Bond is a bit shrink-wrapped. Am I overreacting?


I defer to Matt S in all things James Bond. (And in general! )

But do have an opinion regarding fit. (Old men have two things; opinions and memories! :icon_saint7kg

The answer is, yes. It's current fashion. But not nearly as egregious as many/most such renderings. In fact, not that bad.

As a young guy in the early and mid '60's the fashion was also for closer fitting clothing, though never shrink wrapped. I look back at photos of myself as a young man then, and see myself in trousers and jackets fitting far more closely than I have since.

Who the heck was that guy, anyway!? :icon_scratch:


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

medhat said:


> Fashion porn at it's best! Question for the crowd (@Matt S you may serve as a reference for the answer). In one of the early videos re Turnbull & Asser and their association with James Bond, there's a scene included with Daniel Craig in Casino Royale, wearing a tux and looking in the mirror. I _don't_ believe the tux is T&A (but I think the shirt is), that it's either full bespoke or fully-altered Tom Ford (I've seen reference to Brioni but I think that era ended with Pierce Brosnan). In either case, an I may be in a very minority opinion here, but I actually don't care for the fit of the jacket (on Craig). Not crazy about the shoulders (I understand minimal padding due to his physique, but I'd prefer an absolutely smooth shoulder line), and the area below the sleevehead "dimples" on the sleeve like it was RTW. Then again, if I were to take an expanded view I think much of what is fitted to Craig/Bond is a bit shrink-wrapped. Am I overreacting?


Daniel Craig's dinner jacket (tux) in Casino Royale is from Brioni. All of his suits in that film are from Brioni except the blue linen suit in the black-and-white opening scene. Craig's ever-changing physique means that the fit was never going to be perfect, but I think it looks pretty good. The evening shirt is from Brioni, but no others are. He switched to Tom Ford for Quantum of Solace.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Matt S said:


> Daniel Craig's dinner jacket (tux) in Casino Royale is from Brioni. All of his suits in that film are from Brioni except the blue linen suit in the black-and-white opening scene. Craig's ever-changing physique means that the fit was never going to be perfect, but I think it looks pretty good. The evening shirt is from Brioni, but no others are. He switched to Tom Ford for Quantum of Solace.


Matt, your erudition is always a pleasure! 👍


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Luca says caio!


__
https://did%3D791e31f688a0754c6598b2980b5c2a0d23e36226%3Bid%3D153170414949%3Bkey%3DBe8pZHKVGyTv3_kMnK3uZw%3Bname%3Dlucarubinacci


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

How does the industry standard for fine suede hides produce them? It ain't pretty, but this is how at Charles F. Stead .


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

CEGO's Carl Goldberg on shirt fit, and Alan Flusser on tailored clothing.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

G. The Bruce on quality -


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## Acct2000 (Sep 24, 2005)

I'm hoping the straw hat and David Hober tie I wore makes this video appropriate for this thread! I'll add that David Hober's customer service was fantastic. Others may differ, but I'm really happy with the red, white (almost) and blue tie!!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

A minute and a half in America's greatest men's shop. Such a description is a bold statement. I assert it by virtue of the average level of taste and quality, and diversigty. Top level classic offerings stuffed into every nook and cranny of a comparatively small space, all of fine quality, and refined taste. Well described by their spokesman as "The highest common denominator."

A look inside O'Connell's -


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> A minute and a half in America's greatest men's shop. Such a description is a bold statement. I assert it by virtue of the average level of taste and quality, and diversigty. Top level classic offerings stuffed into every nook and cranny of a comparatively small space, all of fine quality, and refined taste. Well described by their spokesman as "The highest common denominator."
> 
> A look inside O'Connell's -


Consider me a well satisfied customer of O'Connell's. Unfortunately it's been a mail order/Telephone call relationship.. I've planned a couple of road trips to visit their store, but something has always come up to foil those plans. They don't happen to have a 30+ minute video tour of the store, do they? :icon_scratch:


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> Consider me a well satisfied customer of O'Connell's. Unfortunately it's been a mail order/Telephone call relationship.. I've planned a couple of road trips to visit their store, but something has always come up to foil those plans. They don't happen to have a 30+ minute video tour of the store, do they? :icon_scratch:


Hear, hear! 👍👍👍

I think if the current owners sold out to big money, I might shoot myself.  The nubes could commission a cutesy logo and stick it on T-shirts!. 

Having observed the history of many small businesses professionally, it's so hard for them to endure and maintain their integrity. Family ownership is usually the key. But while some make it into a 2nd generation, few last beyond that in similar form. (inheritance, differing agendas, etc.)


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


I agree with the Shoe Snob....I am not a fan of white contrast stitching on a black boot, but it was an interesting video nonetheless.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> I agree with the Shoe Snob....I am not a fan of white contrast stitching on a black boot, but it was an interesting video nonetheless.


Oh, well . . . .


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> Oh, well . . . . :angry:
> 
> View attachment 63390


LOL, the presentation is rated a 9 and the shoe/boot itself rates just a 6. Fair enough.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


I'd never gotten to a point of giving up white shirts, but the Man was sufficiently convincing in his arguments for the return of the white shirt, that I will continue to wear mine without interruption.. LOL


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> I'd never gotten to a point of giving up white shirts, but the Man was sufficiently convincing in his arguments for the return of the white shirt, that I will continue to wear mine without interruption.. LOL


There are times when nothing else is just as right! 👍


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Poaching in Matt's preserve. Wonderful, well worth the watch! 👍


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

More Cleverly stories -


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


An interesting video and a handsome pair of foot gear, as always, but I must tell you there will never be the day I would be willing to pay $1650 for a pair of shoes made in China, machine made or hand made. If I am spending that much it will be for a new pair of Made in the USA Luccheses. I presently enjoy six pair of such classics, but could always use a seventh! LOL.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> An interesting video and a handsome pair of foot gear, as always, but I must tell you there will never be the day I would be willing to pay $1650 for a pair of shoes made in China, machine made or hand made. If I am spending that much it will be for a new pair of Made in the USA Luccheses. I presently enjoy six pair of such classics, but could always use a seventh! LOL.


I admire cowboy boots, but they're not something I wear. However, those I've seen from Luccheses are works of art!

And, no, I'm not about to pay $1,650 on any footwear! :icon_saint7kg:


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Giovanni continues -


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

St. Crispin's workshop -


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


I've seen a few Lucchese Boot making videos before, but not this one. Very enjoyable to watch...did you see that boot maker dump that box of nails in his mouth and then get to work? Jeez Louis, I hope he doesn't forget and swallow! :crazy:


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> I've seen a few Lucchese Boot making videos before, but not this one. Very enjoyable to watch...did you see that boot maker dump that box of nails in his mouth and then get to work? Jeez Louis, I hope he doesn't forget and swallow! :crazy:


Thought of you when I came across this video, knowing your fondness for the make.

My reaction to the boot maker's nail-biting adventure was exactly the same as yours!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Deconstructing the myth of bespoke that "You can have anything!"

This is possibly the best video of a discussion of the process of commissioning bespoke that I have ever found. It is candid and realistic, rather than idealistic, based upon an abundance of real life experience, and 100% consistent with my personal experience. It covers all of the essential pitfalls and unrealistic expectations often brought to the process, and what is most successful instead.

I.e., tailors cut clothes, the way that tailors cut clothes.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> Deconstructing the myth of bespoke that "You can have anything!"
> 
> This is possibly the best video of a discussion of the process of commissioning bespoke that I have ever found. It is candid and realistic, rather than idealistic, based upon an abundance of real life experience, and 100% consistent with my personal experience. It covers all of the essential pitfalls and unrealistic expectations often brought to the process, and what is most successful instead.
> 
> I.e., tailors cut clothes, the way that tailors cut clothes.


The video above is perhaps the most helpfully informative videos in this thread. Thanks for sharing it with us.


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> Deconstructing the myth of bespoke that "You can have anything!"
> 
> This is possibly the best video of a discussion of the process of commissioning bespoke that I have ever found. It is candid and realistic, rather than idealistic, based upon an abundance of real life experience, and 100% consistent with my personal experience. It covers all of the essential pitfalls and unrealistic expectations often brought to the process, and what is most successful instead.
> 
> I.e., tailors cut clothes, the way that tailors cut clothes.


The key is to go to the tailor you like and go to a talented tailor. These men are talking about world-class tailors. I've used tailors and shirtmakers who can only do the limited things they can do, because most of their customers don't care. I want a tailor who can do standard things that Savile Row-trained tailors can do. But if I go to anyone else, I'll be disappointed. I think people don't realise that if they want something special, they need to pay for it. A lot of it is that the average tailor isn't able to think outside the box, or they're not able to figure out something they're not used to. I've had trousers made with side adjusters that didn't function because the tailor didn't understand the mechanics of it. But worse, average tailors only can fit and average body well.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> The video above is perhaps the most helpfully informative videos in this thread. Thanks for sharing it with us.


Glad you liked it! 👍

I too think it's very apt, and especially useful for first-timers.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Matt S said:


> The key is to go to the tailor you like and go to a talented tailor. These men are talking about world-class tailors. I've used tailors and shirtmakers who can only do the limited things they can do, because most of their customers don't care. I want a tailor who can do standard things that Savile Row-trained tailors can do. But if I go to anyone else, I'll be disappointed. I think people don't realise that if they want something special, they need to pay for it. A lot of it is that the average tailor isn't able to think outside the box, or they're not able to figure out something they're not used to. I've had trousers made with side adjusters that didn't function because the tailor didn't understand the mechanics of it. But worse, average tailors only can fit and average body well.


Absolutely true! 👍

The old Calabrese tailor I used was very skilled in essentials of tailoring, and produced beautiful results when allowed to work in the style he preferred, but was a little less sure when requested to work in a different aesthetic.

I've never had the pleasure of a Savile Row tailor, but from the remarks of the gentlemen in the video, and those I've read elsewhere, it sounds as if even many of those tend to produce their best results when commissioned to do their house style. If I had infinite resources, and 20 more years, it might be fun to dabble in this stratosphere.

I've noted in photos, and also in remarks, that W W Chan seems to be more aesthetically versatile in accomplishing varying cuts with different effects. And I've read that they have multiple cutters that make them.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


A more relaxed, presentation style that adds to the appeal of what we are being told about his new shoes. I am a fan of suede shoes, with pairs of sand, tobacco, dark olive and navy suede shoes on the racks, but I'm not sure black suede shoes are my cup of tea. My one gripe about my navy blue suede Allen Edmond's wing tips is that when worn, they all too quickly and clearly show any dust that gets on them. I suspect black suede shoes would present the same way. A very good presentation though!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> A more relaxed, presentation style that adds to the appeal of what we are being told about his new shoes. I am a fan of suede shoes, with pairs of sand, tobacco, dark olive and navy suede shoes on the racks, but I'm not sure black suede shoes are my cup of tea. My one gripe about my navy blue suede Allen Edmond's wing tips is that when worn, they all too quickly and clearly show any dust that gets on them. I suspect black suede shoes would present the same way. A very good presentation though!


I've found the same thing with the one pair of shoes I have that incorporate navy suede. And I certainly doubt that black would be much better, though if my experience with autos between navy and black is any indication, navy is actually even worse.

Never had much of a desire for black suede either. The one picture I have in my mind is wondering how a black suede oxford wingtip/full brogue might look with a Cambridge grey chalk stripe suit. :icon_scratch:


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


Handmade, custom cowboy boots.....literally a dying art! It's going to take some time for Wheeler Boots to age out and fade into history, but the legendary Mr Dave Wheeler has already taken the last measurements for boots that he will be making. Paul Bond, another arguably legendary custom boot maker, passed away almost 10 years ago and now Dave Wheeler will be riding off into the sunset of retirement. Kind of sad!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

If you like fine hats, or would like to like fine hats, the time invested listening to a master discuss them is well worth it!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> If you like fine hats, or would like to like fine hats, the time invested listening to a master discuss them is well worth it!


Two very interestinf and entertaining videos on hats. I am a confirmed fan of hats, but I seem to have passed through the fashion phase of fur and wool felt fedoras and have moved on to more pragmatic versions. Frankly, never in my life have I worn hats more frequently/constantly than I do in my present phase of life, but alas, my fancy hats, several Borsalino and Stetson fedoras sit unworn in the closet, while my collection of Tilley Endurables are worn almost every day. The last time I wore the Borsalino's and the Stetsons with any regularity was back in Hoosierville, before we migrated to central Florida In the heat and humidity of central Floerid I sweated up the fur and wool felts pretty quickly and the woven plant fiber hats didn't take much longer. I wear hats for protection from the sun and occasionally to keep the rain off. The Tilley's are maintained/restored by throwing them in the washer on a gentle cycle and air drying them. I am a practical man and some argue that I'm pretty cheap. I don't like to quickly ruin my more pricey hats! Nuff said on that.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


The Elegant Oxford really does a great job of unboxing a pair on in this video, three pair(s) of shoes. Watching him handle all that fine leather and listening to his praises of the beauty of the shoe art he holds in his hands leaves no doubt that the loves his work and particularly the piece he presently holds in his hands. As a confirmed shoe whore, I really do love my shoes and boots....but perhaps, not quite that much! LOL.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> Two very interestinf and entertaining videos on hats. I am a confirmed fan of hats, but I seem to have passed through the fashion phase of fur and wool felt fedoras and have moved on to more pragmatic versions. Frankly, never in my life have I worn hats more frequently/constantly than I do in my present phase of life, but alas, my fancy hats, several Borsalino and Stetson fedoras sit unworn in the closet, while my collection of Tilley Endurables are worn almost every day. The last time I wore the Borsalino's and the Stetsons with any regularity was back in Hoosierville, before we migrated to central Florida In the heat and humidity of central Floerid I sweated up the fur and wool felts pretty quickly and the woven plant fiber hats didn't take much longer. I wear hats for protection from the sun and occasionally to keep the rain off. The Tilley's are maintained/restored by throwing them in the washer on a gentle cycle and air drying them. I am a practical man and some argue that I'm pretty cheap. I don't like to quickly ruin my more pricey hats! Nuff said on that.


Sorry, but then you'll just have to move! 

Though, seriously, Tilley makes a great hat for its purposes, and I would think it a stylish essential for your environs. 👍



eagle2250 said:


> The Elegant Oxford really does a great job of unboxing a pair on in this video, three pair(s) of shoes. Watching him handle all that fine leather and listening to his praises of the beauty of the shoe art he holds in his hands leaves no doubt that the loves his work and particularly the piece he presently holds in his hands. As a confirmed shoe whore, I really do love my shoes and boots....but perhaps, not quite that much! LOL.


Judging by the gentleman's hands, he appears a younger man, and I'm delighted to see this degree of appreciation among later generations.

Hear, hear! 👍👍👍


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

We must cherish our eccentrics! They provide us with a whole other window on life. :icon_saint7kg:


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> We must cherish our eccentrics! They provide us with a whole other window on life. :icon_saint7kg:


I learned something brand new from the video on Top Hats. Specifically that "Mad Hatters" were self made men, their madness probably a result of the mercury they ingested when licking their fingers repeatedly as they smoothed and repositioned the threads in the fabric of the top hat. The fellow doing the video might want to take note of that fact. LOL. Thank you for this new tidbit of knowledge.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> I learned something brand new from the video on Top Hats. Specifically that "Mad Hatters" were self made men, their madness probably a result of the mercury they ingested when licking their fingers repeatedly as they smoothed and repositioned the threads in the fabric of the top hat. The fellow doing the video might want to take note of that fact. LOL. Thank you for this new tidbit of knowledge.


Quite welcome!

An unintended consequence of the trade -

https://www.healthline.com/health/mad-hatter-disease#in-history
As a young boy, along with enjoying chewing on lead soldiers while inhaling clouds of leaded high-test, a special pleasure was playing with the liquid silver contents of broken thermometers.

I know, explains a lot!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


It is encouraging to see such a dedicated young artisan getting involved in the Trade.....'Hope for the future!'


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


An excellent presentation, but I must tell you, I disagree with the Shoe-Snobs conclusions on this one. The triple Oak soles on those 'dress boots' are decidedly overbuilt and the patina he is so impressed with just looks overly splotchy to my eye! To each his/her own!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> An excellent presentation, but I must tell you, I disagree with the Shoe-Snobs conclusions on this one. The triple Oak soles on those 'dress boots' are decidedly overbuilt and the patina he is so impressed with just looks overly splotchy to my eye! To each his/her own!


I agree. Justin is very knowledgeable (Sometimes more so than he appears to be in some of his videos.) and candid. But his tastes differ from mine frequently. The boots, IMHO, would have been far more appealing were they simpler. And frankly, I wouldn't like to have to walk in triple oak soles!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


Note to self.....always wear a sport coat when unboxing $2000 pairs of shoes! Just saying.....


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> Note to self.....always wear a sport coat when unboxing $2000 pairs of shoes! Just saying.....


Aww . . . . you're just envious because this fellow has 130 pairs of shoes!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


Based on my observations in the wild, those were much needed lessons. Great video! Thank you for sharing it with us.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> Based on my observations in the wild, those were much needed lessons. Great video! Thank you for sharing it with us.


Glad you enjoyed it! :beer:

For years I had had a couple inexpensively made L L Bean coats that were tailored as sport jackets. They were made from lesser quality but heavier tweed, and also had fiber fill quilting on the interior. They were intended as outwear in colder environs, and that is how I wore them. I found that by wearing a cashmere scarf at the neck, it added about 5F degrees of added warmth as compared to not wearing one. No idea what happened to them, but I've got a HT, and couple more casual sport jackets that I still enjoy wearing that way.

As I'm severely knot challenged , I shall leave the more complex configurations to Simon, and other comparably gifted individuals. I also would find some of his suggestions a bit too elaborate for my preferences, such as wearing with a sweater, but that's just me, I can also see a practical advantage to comfort.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


The presentation could use a bit of polishing, but the RM Williams Stockman's Buckle Boots are a great pair of footwear. The medium brown hued calfskin is quite handsome, but I must tell you, I think I prefer my pair of RM Williams Jodhpur Boots in black Kangaroo leather. They are lighter on the foot and noticeably more pliable to one's touch!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> The presentation could use a bit of polishing, but the RM Williams Stockman's Buckle Boots are a great pair of footwear. The medium brown hued calfskin is quite handsome, but I must tell you, I think I prefer my pair of RM Williams Jodhpur Boots in black Kangaroo leather. They are lighter on the foot and noticeably more pliable to one's touch!


Interesting information. I had assumed that the name Stockman was just the Ausie term for a Jodhpur, but evidently, despite their similarity, there are differences.

I've always read that Kangaroo hide is possibly the finest hide for footwear. That it is both the most pliable, and counter intuitively, most durable. I can recall back in the dim mists of time of my boyhood when America still had a shoe industry, some makers still had kangaroo hide available, if not stock, then as a special order.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> Interesting information. I had assumed that the name Stockman was just the Ausie term for a Jodhpur, but evidently, despite their similarity, there are differences.
> 
> I've always read that Kangaroo hide is possibly the finest hide for footwear. That it is both the most pliable, and counter intuitively most durable. I can recall back in the dim mists of time of my boyhood when America still had a shoe industry, some makers still had kangaroo hide available, if not stock, then as a special order.


I think today's Stockman's Buckle Boot is the same boot that RM Williams sold 12+ years ago as a Jodhpur design...when I bought my pair. For some reason the RM William's company blows hot and cold on the availability of Kangaroo hide and I am not sure why that is the case. As I understand it, kangaroos are an over populated nuisance critter in Australia. The tensile strength of kangaroo hide is much greater that that of cowhide, so they can cut the hides thinner that cowhide and that makes for lighter, more pliable and more comfortable footwear.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> I think today's Stockman's Buckle Boot is the same boot that RM Williams sold 12+ years ago as a Jodhpur design...when I bought my pair. For some reason the RM William's company blows hot and cold on the availability of Kangaroo hide and I am not sure why that is the case. As I understand it, kangaroos are an over populated nuisance critter in Australia. The tensile strength of kangaroo hide is much greater that that of cowhide, so they can cut the hides thinner that cowhide and that makes for lighter, more pliable and more comfortable footwear.


I think that Knapp Shoes may have been one of the makers that offered Kangaroo -

"The Knapp Brothers Shoe Manufacturing Company was *founded in 1921* by a family of craftsmen. Ewin and Clarence Knapp set out to create dependable footwear, made right here in America. By 1985, the company was selling over 120 styles of shoes through its catalog, making Knapp the largest direct selling company worldwide."

Knapp was established and made in Brockton, Mass., _The Shoe City!_

Knapp sold via its catalog and a network of part-time independent salesmen. My father was one of these even though he worked full time, and I doubt he ever sold more than a dozen pair in a year. I used to enjoy looking through their elaborate catalog with attractive photos, even though I thought the styling rather fuddy-duddy. In reflection, they were rather good quality and made in what were classic styles for the time. In terms of quality, definitely a step up from my boyhood Thom McAn's.

In seeking to learn more about Knapp, I came across the following list of American shoe brands, both makers and retail names, that gives an idea of the breadth of this industry. While finer footwear could be found elsewhere, nowhere was there such a large and varied availability of RTW shoes. And among them many of very fine quality.

https://vcleat.com/vintage-made-in-usa-brands/


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

This young gentleman has occasionally made statements which are different from my understanding, but I feel that on balance what he offers far exceeds any such differences. As an old man who shares many of this young man's passions, it's enriching to see someone this young authentically passionate about this aesthetic, and pursuing it so energetically and successfully.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> This young gentleman has occasionally made statements which are different from my understanding, but I feel that on balance what he offers far exceeds any such differences. As an old man who shares many of this young man's passions, it's enriching to see someone this young authentically passionate about this aesthetic, and pursuing it so energetically and successfully.


Ot once, both entertaining and informative! Thank you.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> Ot once, both entertaining and informative! Thank you.


Quite welcome! 👍


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

R. E. Tricker Ltd. served as a set for the delightful 2005 film _Kinky Boots, _and many of its staff as extras in the film






Good time Charlie stops by.






The finished article.


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## 127.72 MHz (Feb 16, 2007)

Interesting videos.

Many of Tricker's boots and shoes are instantly recognizable by their "Substantial" appearance. I am strangely attracted to what the British would call a "Country" or "County" shoe or boot.

Any U.S.A. firm who has ever offered LHW "Gunboats" has nothing on some of Tricker's offerings.

No doubt if there had been a brick and mortar store where I could have tried them on I would own a pair or two.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Cheaney was long regarded as a middle quality English maker. Owned for many years by Church, when Church was purchased by Prada, Cheaney was purchased independently by two members of the Church family and, IMHO, upgraded. I'm a fan as I've been fortunate enough to acquire 3 pair of their footwear, and have found them to be among the finest I have enjoyed.






Edit: Cheaney refurbishment -


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> Cheaney was long regarded as a middle quality English maker. Owned for many years by Church, when Church was purchased by Prada, Cheaney was purchased independently by two my members of the Church family and, IMHO, upgraded. I'm a fan as I've been fortunate enough to acquire 3 pair of their footwear, and have found them to be among the finest I have enjoyed.


Excellent video. It was interesting to note the good humor being displayed by several of the Cheaney shoe makers in the course of the video Most such videos have a tendency to showcase overly serious expressions of the faces of the factory staff. This was a nice change. of pace (pun intended). Much to your credit, I too have become a raving fan of Cheaney footwear and have several pair on my shoe racks.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> Excellent video. It was interesting to note the good humor being displayed by several of the Cheaney shoe makers in the course of the video Most such videos have a tendency to showcase overly serious expressions of the faces of the factory staff. This was a nice change. of pace (pun intended). Much to your credit, I too have become a raving fan of Cheaney footwear and have several pair on my shoe racks.


My work is never done! :devil:


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Edit: One more -











Another take on the same topic -


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> Another take on the same topic -


Very informative and entertaining videos. Flat Caps are a great point of focus for such videos.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> Very informative and entertaining videos. Flat Caps are a great point of focus for such videos.


Glad you found it interesting! 👍

As is not surprising, generationally my wife had always thought of such caps as "Old Man Hats" prior to her misfortune of encountering me. But the fact is that the right version of one of these caps can be worn stylishly my almost anyone. For reasons of which I'm uncertain, the basic, or "ivy" flat cap can flatter me, whereas the "newsboy" or pie-wedge cap with a button on top does not. And I suspect similar differences pertain among a much wider group.

Glad they can be incorporated into my cool/cold weather wardrobe as they offer many benefits; keeping one's head warm, obviously, but a good tweed will also keep it dry in drizzle and light rain, if it should be come damp. dries easily. And one carefully made allows the cap to be creased in the middle and the brim folded under into the body of the camp making a compact small bundle that usually fits easily into the pocket of an outdoor coat.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Edward Green factory tour -


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> Glad you found it interesting! 👍
> 
> As is not surprising, generationally my wife had always thought of such caps as "Old Man Hats" prior to her misfortune of encountering me. But the fact is that the right version of one of these caps can be worn stylishly my almost anyone. For reasons of which I'm uncertain, the basic, or "ivy" flat cap can flatter me, whereas the "newsboy" or pie-wedge cap with a button on top does not. And I suspect similar differences pertain among a much wider group.
> 
> Glad they can be incorporated into my cool/cold weather wardrobe as they offer many benefits; keeping one's head warm, obviously, but a good tweed will also keep it dry in drizzle and light rain, if it should be come damp. dries easily. And one carefully made allows the cap to be creased in the middle and the brim folded under into the body of the camp making a compact small bundle that usually fits easily into the pocket of an outdoor coat.


Before we moved to the 'Land of The Blazing Sun' I used to wear Flat Caps frequently. They were the only caps I could wear comfortably while driving a car. Every time a ventured out with one on my head, I felt like I was stepping out of an F. Scott Fitzgerald script! LOL.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> Before we moved to the 'Land of The Blazing Sun' I used to wear Flat Caps frequently. They were the only caps I could wear comfortably while driving a car. Every time a ventured out with one on my head, I felt like I was stepping out of an F. Scott Fitzgerald script! LOL.


Gatsby2250?


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


An excellent conversation on footwear needs during the cooler periods of the year. As I watched, he almost had me convinced to order a pair of the Cheaney Tiger Moth boots, but then we were informed that they were shearling lined and cost over 400 pounds and besides I already have more pair of fine footwear than I will ever be able to wear out. At my age, I've got to get real. LOL.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> An excellent conversation on footwear needs during the cooler periods of the year. As I watched, he almost had me convinced to order a pair of the Cheaney Tiger Moth boots, but then we were informed that they were shearling lined and cost over 400 pounds and besides I already have more pair of fine footwear than I will ever be able to wear out. At my age, I've got to get real. LOL.


But, but, but . . . what if you ever find yourself north of the Mason/Dixon line!?

And you know, it gets real cold! And it starts to snow and stuff? :cold:


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> But, but, but . . . what if you ever find yourself north of the Mason/Dixon line!?
> 
> And you know, it gets real cold! And it starts to snow and stuff? :cold:


LOL. You are a bad influence on my late Mama's only perfect child!


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


I disagree wit a couple of Ash's fragrance recommendations, but the Chap does have an entertaining voice and presentation style. I used to wear Aramis and I am a confirmed fan of Geo F. Trumpers offerings. I'm going to have to give his Eucrise scemt a try. Thanks for sharing,


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> LOL. You are a bad influence on my late Mama's only perfect child!


Just doin' my job. 












eagle2250 said:


> I disagree wit a couple of Ash's fragrance recommendations, but the Chap does have an entertaining voice and presentation style. I used to wear Aramis and I am a confirmed fan of Geo F. Trumpers offerings. I'm going to have to give his Eucrise scemt a try. Thanks for sharing,


I also find his presentations entertaining and useful, and while I've found myself in disagreement with some specifics, generally feel the principles correct, if perhaps self-evident to some.

Scent is a very personal preference to the extent that it's difficult to offer specific recommendations, but it's interesting to see him discuss them. I've used some Floris stuff and liked it,, but find myself most drawn to what the French cook up.

*But all in very small and discreet amounts! *


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Justin vents! Perhaps more than some wish to know, but potentially valuable distinctions regardless. Also offers a better appreciation of his bona fides as contrasted to the more casual of his style of personal presentation.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> Justin vents! Perhaps more than some wish to know, but potentially valuable distinctions regardless. Also offers a better appreciation of his bona fides as contrasted to more casual personal style of presentation.


A very informative lecture. I feel like I've just been scolded Frankly I think hand lasted, machine made shoes/boots are better made that totally handmade (for example, stitching consistency). Jeeze Louise, let us get the word out...when wearing a button down collared sport shirt, the one button that can and in my opinion should, be left unbuttoned is that top button on the lacing ladder. Now my rant is also off! LOL.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> A very informative lecture. I feel like I've just been scolded Frankly I think hand lasted, machine made shoes/boots are better made that totally handmade (for example, stitching consistency). Jeeze Louise, let us get the word out...when wearing a button down collared sport shirt, the one button that can and in my opinion should, be left unbuttoned is that top button on the lacing ladder. Now my rant is also off! LOL.


*YEAH!!!










AND NO DANG TOM JONES'EN EITHER!*


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## Tweedlover (Jan 30, 2021)

Flanderian said:


> Glad you found it interesting! 👍
> 
> As is not surprising, generationally my wife had always thought of such caps as "Old Man Hats" prior to her misfortune of encountering me. But the fact is that the right version of one of these caps can be worn stylishly my almost anyone. For reasons of which I'm uncertain, the basic, or "ivy" flat cap can flatter me, whereas the "newsboy" or pie-wedge cap with a button on top does not. And I suspect similar differences pertain among a much wider group.
> 
> Glad they can be incorporated into my cool/cold weather wardrobe as they offer many benefits; keeping one's head warm, obviously, but a good tweed will also keep it dry in drizzle and light rain, if it should be come damp. dries easily. And one carefully made allows the cap to be creased in the middle and the brim folded under into the body of the camp making a compact small bundle that usually fits easily into the pocket of an outdoor coat.


Was wearing 1 of my flat caps last year while ordering lunch at a fast food joint. The young gal waiting on me automatically offered me the senior price. Jokingly asked her how she knew I was a senior and she said it was the "old man" cap.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> *YEAH!!!
> 
> View attachment 67319
> 
> ...


Now that's the kind of rise I'm looking for in my trouser purchases these days. Do you have a source for the pair he is wearing? LOL


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Some of his parings could be better, but his essential points are, IMHO, correct and valuable.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> Some of his parings could be better, but his essential points are, IMHO, correct and valuable.


The Chap was, as always, entertaining and I find myself wiser on several points from watching and listening to his comments regarding the wear of Cravats/Ascots.. The Croat martial history of the Cravat/ascot was unknown to me before watching this present video and the pendency of retired Field Grade officers to wear such during life periods duing which they may be enduring periods of dotage in their lives was also news to me. Makes me want to run right out and buy a dozen of so, but I ythink I'll hokd off on that initiative for a few days in the hopethat this darned fever will soon pass! LOL.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> The Chap was, as always, entertaining and I find myself wiser on several points from watching and listening to his comments regarding the wear of Cravats/Ascots.. The Croat martial history of the Cravat/ascot was unknown to me before watching this present video and the pendency of retired Field Grade officers to wear such during life periods duing which they may be enduring periods of dotage in their lives was also news to me. Makes me want to run right out and buy a dozen of so, but I ythink I'll hokd off on that initiative for a few days in the hopethat this darned fever will soon pass! LOL.


Should the term be apt in the literal sense, I wish you a speedy recovery. Otherwise, may I recommend - :devil:

https://elizabetta.net/search?type=product&q=ascot*


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

A recent sartorial video showed John Lobb shoes being made at their factory. And while undoubtedly very fine footwear, they are also undoubtedly not bespoke. But as the following video illustrates, John Lobb has, or at least had, a separate bespoke operation making shoes of a quite different class.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Luca say CHAIO!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


The Chap reminds us in this days sartorial video of how enjoyable going out and shopping for a real bargain when fulfilling our need for key garments in our wardrobe(s)! Now I have to go out and find me a Crombet Coat for pennies on the dollar. :icon_scratch::hi:


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> The Chap reminds us in this days sartorial video of how enjoyable going out and shopping for a real bargain when fulfilling our need for key garments in our wardrobe(s)! Now I have to go out and find me a Crombet Coat for pennies on the dollar. :icon_scratch::hi:


When you do, it should keep you nice and toasty! 🥵


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## ran23 (Dec 11, 2014)

no luck running videos this morning


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


My love affair with shell cordovan shoes began more than 50 years ago and I am sure it will continue as long as I ,maintain my claim on this mortal coil we call life! LOL.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## happydays123 (Jun 21, 2020)

Hello everyone. This has been one of the most helpful sartorial videos I've seen and has really helped me coordinate my style.






Remember gentlemen, it's all about how you coordinate!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

happydays123 said:


> Hello everyone. This has been one of the most helpful sartorial videos I've seen and has really helped me coordinate my style.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Two really funny guys! 👍


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## happydays123 (Jun 21, 2020)

@Flanderian

Yes! It seems that since '91, or whenever it was that this movie came out, nearly every time I am getting dressed, buying some clothes, going through a fitting, selecting a fabric, etc. I think of this scene. Funny as hell!

Just wanted to share a little humor to brighten up everyone's day. Always remember to coordinate!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


Lazyman shoe designs are not frequently found for sale in the $400 price range. I have yet to scratch that itch. So perhaps this might be one of those serendipitous moments when two compatible desires cross and become but one! However, on the downside, in this video the shoe snob should have put more into his preparation...he seems to be grasping for material throughout this video. Just saying.....


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> Lazyman shoe designs are not frequently found for sale in the $400 price range. I have yet to scratch that itch. So perhaps this might be one of those serendipitous moments when two compatible desires cross and become but one! However, on the downside, in this video the shoe snob should have put more into his preparation...he seems to be grasping for material throughout this video. Just saying.....


"seems to be grasping for material throughout this video" Agreed! It's truly steam of consciousness. But I still find them among the best, despite the lack of polish, due to Justin's bona fides, even if he's sometimes at a loss to express himself. I think part of it is that because of his experience, what he's looking at seems self evident, so it doesn't even register.

If you recall, in his harangue over the misuse of the term "hand made" he was far more detailed. (And indeed passionate! ) His ire evidently inspiring him to greater eloquence.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

If in Eagle's just criticism of Justin's presentation you thought Justin "seems to be grasping for material throughout this video," in this one he falls all over himself searching for descriptors for shoes he sincerely deeply admires from personal friends he's looking to boost, and about which he's very open. He spends what is likely to some an inordinate degree of attention on packaging, but recall, it's also his business and he's truly impressed, while he strives to absorb all of its detail.

But if this is all that is seen, IMHO, it's truly a case of no forest for the trees, because what he's discussing are two very remarkable shoes at the pinnacle of RTW shoe making, comparative value in this stratosphere, and the economics of his business of making and selling shoes by an authentically knowledgeable industry insider.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Hearsay, scuttlebutt be [email protected]! The non-I-gent facts of alteration from a craftsman who earns his living that way.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


I've never experienced Sons of Henry field boots, but I agree with the host on his thoughts regarding the unlined boot shaft, vs a lined boot shaft. However, the utility of the unlined boot shaft is greatly affected by just how far afield and under how extreme the conditions to which the boots are subjected.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> I've never experienced Sons of Henry field boots, but I agree with the host on his thoughts regarding the unlined boot shaft, vs a lined boot shaft. However, the utility of the unlined boot shaft is greatly affected by just how far afield and under how extreme the conditions to which the boots are subjected.


Walking through my daughter's lower field when freshly mown? 

Agreed, field boots for dudes! I've never had Utah calf leather, but I've read it described as being quite soft. I'd think these really too pretty for serious field use. They also have the Vibram version of a Dainite sole. A lovely choice for country, or even poor weather town wear, but as I have one pair of footwear in the British version of a commando sole, that's what I'd want in the field. Very different from U.S. soles often so described, it a thick tank tread of a sole with cleats at least a 1/4" deep. I'd have to think it suitable for just about any terrain or conditions.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

In this nice review of a pair of very beautiful shoes, I believe the reviewer makes a mistake regarding nomenclature and makes it a distinction of his description of the shoe. Anyone can make a mistake (I know, I have a life time of experience doing so! ) but a confusion of terms distresses me because they tend to travel, and very soon you have legion of authoritative sounding folks spreading misinformation.

He states that the seam that circumnavigates the upper below the throat, along the side and around the heal dividing the top and bottom of the upper is what denotes the style as a Balmoral. From my experience, rather Balmoral is the term historically used by the American shoe industry to denote closed throated shoes, and for which the British term is oxford. Instead, the style shown here as described by this seam is properly termed a *galosh* oxford.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Edit: I'll say it before anyone else does, the neckerchief and PS are horrid. In another video, this fine gentleman boasted of the inexpensive source he had found for same. Unfortunately, sometimes when you buy cheap, all you get is cheap. The trick is to find attractive items of good quality for a bit less.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> Edit: I'll say it before anyone else does, the neckerchief and PS are horrid. In another video, this fine gentleman boasted of the inexpensive source he had found for same. Unfortunately, sometimes when you buy cheap, all you get is cheap. The trick is to find attractive items of good quality for a bit less.


The above is without a doubt one of The Chaps very best and most useful life skills videos. I was sp impressed I actually jotted down notes as he was speaking. Thank you for sharing it with us.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> The above is without a doubt one of The Chaps very best and most useful life skills videos. I was sp impressed I actually jotted down notes as he was speaking. Thank you for sharing it with us.


Glad you enjoyed it but . . . .

I'm *not* going to a beautician!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


For many years the only hues of dress shirts to be found in my closet were a 60%/40% mix of whites and blues and present day a veritable rainbow of color options are to be found there.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> For many years the only hues of dress shirts to be found in my closet were a 60%/40% mix of whites and blues and present day a veritable rainbow of color options are to be found there.


During my years in business, especially my early years, this was also true for me. But as I grew more confident the allure of Daisy's "such beautiful shirts" as revealed by my shirtmakers' swatches, inevitably led to the beauties and pains of complication.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> For many years the only hues of dress shirts to be found in my closet were a 60%/40% mix of whites and blues and present day a veritable rainbow of color options are to be found there.


Bet you don't have one like this! 










The good thing about bespoke is you can get anything you want. But the bad thing is, what some people want.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Don't believe I've posted this before, if I have, please advise me as I hate dupes!


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> Bet you don't have one like this!
> 
> View attachment 71025
> 
> ...


That shirt fabric is a very interesting and arguably desireable design, but I must tell you...you won that bet! LOL.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> Don't believe I've posted this before, if I have, please advise me as I hate dupes!


IMHO this is not a repeat and it does present us with a fine p[air of shoes for future shoe needs. The Shoe Snob puts out a pretty fine shoe.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> That shirt fabric is a very interesting and arguably desireable design, but I must tell you...you won that bet! LOL.


Think I may have had a pair of PJ's from this cloth about 70 years ago!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Interesting, generally accurate and *very nicely* produced! 👍

Deals with some of the differences between on-line bespoke, and actual full bespoke. Particularly useful to those new to the subject.

While it's true that much of on-line so-called bespoke is as form of MTM, some of it doesn't even rise to that level. Some sellers simply have RTW suits in a wider range of sizes, and when a customer submits their measurements grabs one that is closest and uses alterations to attempt to produce and acceptable garment.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Please advise if dupe in this thread, but as it has gotten into boot season in my part of the world, I thought a look at a handsome boot and excellent value might be enjoyable.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


The narrators in the video make a solid case for purchasing lower end, but well made shoes to get a bigger bang for one's shoe dollar. I respect that, but cannot claim to be a righteous adherent to the practice.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


Sven does a good job of teaching us fundamental suiting information, presented in an easily understandable and very informative way!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> Sven does a good job of teaching us fundamental suiting information, presented in an easily understandable and very informative way!


My thoughts exactly, rudimentary, but helpful and factual for the intended audience. Plus, I like his get up! 👍

He's very young, and appears to continue to voraciously add to his knowledge, and augment and realign his understanding. But even more importantly to me, his sartorial passion seems sincere, and to me, that means a lot.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


The shoes (both pair) were incredible and the narration was excellent, but the reflection of the ceiling light in the toes of those shoes was an irritating distraction. Visually it showed as a traveling dent in the respective toe boxes of the shoes. Otherwise, a really good video.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> The shoes (both pair) were incredible and the narration was excellent, but the reflection of the ceiling light in the toes of those shoes was an irritating distraction. Visually it showed as a traveling dent in the respective toe boxes of the shoes. Otherwise, a really good video.


Yes, distracting, but most of these are "produced" (And I use the term loosely.) by amateur enthusiasts. Would be nice though, if some paid a little more attention to lighting, etc.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Don't care for M. Jacomet's personal style, and this production is rather bare-bones, but none-the-less it is informative and interesting -


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


I have no experience with Son's of Henry shoes, but those Son's of Henry Tan Suede Adelaide Cap toes are pretty darned tempting. That's a whole lot of shoe for $325. Good video!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> I have no experience with Son's of Henry shoes, but those Son's of Henry Tan Suede Adelaide Cap toes are pretty darned tempting. That's a whole lot of shoe for $325. Good video!


Glad it's of interest. I know little of this brand either. Evidently it's another of the boutique on-line brands looking to market to the on-line footwear fancier community. I view this as generally positive. It greatly expands choices, usually of good quality footwear, at usually better pricing than standard retail by seeking out quality lower cost makers of traditional footwear and selling directly to the retail customer on-line thereby eliminating at lot of the cost built into conventional retail selling. Their pricing has gone up a bit since this video was made, but it's still a lot of shoe for the money once VAT is deducted.

Their website mentions Spain as a source for making. I have two pair of shoes made in Spain and am very pleased with them, and impressed by their fine quality and rock solid build.

https://sonsofhenrey.com/pages/about-sons-of-henrey


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

This video may not please some as it's devoid of narration or explanation, but it's a very good presentation of *an* MTM making process. I emphasize that this is an MTM process rather than *the* MTM process as there are a variety of them.

This particular MTM process uses what I've read described as CAD/CAM, though technically, that may not be correct, to cut the cloth and linings. I've had no experience with this system used in making tailored garments but my last shirt maker used one to produce my shirts. If not technically bespoke, lacking a paper pattern, the results were outstanding, and superior to a prior shirt maker who used a paper pattern.

The fit was perfect and exactly what I had requested. It was comfortable and very flattering. Changes (tweaks) were made in the pattern over the course of my relationship with them as my preferences and physique changed. These were incorporated perfectly with my first request. This was no doubt not only the result of the system/equipment being used, but the expertise and art of the team involved in their production. I have no reason to believe that equivalent systems and expertise can produce similar results for tailored clothing.

Note in the video while the pattern is machine generated and pieces machine cut, the actual making is done by hand using both machine stitching and hand-sewing, both of which have traditionally been employed in even the finest Savile Row bespoke. So there's every reason to hope that such a process has the potential of providing high quality tailored garments that fit as they should.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> This video may not please some as it's devoid of narration or explanation, but it's a very good presentation of *an* MTM making process. I emphasize that this an MTM process rather than *the* MTM process as there are a variety of them.
> 
> This particular MTM process uses what I've read described as CAD/CAM, though technically, that may not be correct, to cut the cloth and linings. I've had no experience with this system used in making tailored garments but my last shirt maker used one to produce my shirts. If not technically bespoke, lacking a paper pattern, the results were outstanding, and superior to a prior shirts maker who used a paper pattern.
> 
> ...


The musical score of that video was so good, a narrative playing in the background. The music drew our attention to those points we should take note of! A great video. 

Merry Christmas, my friend!


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## drpeter (Nov 21, 2008)

Can we be not too far away from a world in which artificial intelligence (or human clones with artificial brains) can produce bespoke clothing in a manner identical to that used currently by human tailors, complete with built in "individualistic" deviations in details that one sees now in bespoke clothing (like the handsewn buttonholes, for instance, that are never quite identical)? A brave new world of bespoke machine tailors!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> The musical score of that video was so good, a narrative playing in the background. The music drew our attention to those points we should take note of! A great video.
> 
> Merry Christmas, my friend!


Glad you enjoyed it! 👍

And very Merry Christmas to you, and yours! 🥳


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

drpeter said:


> Can we be not too far away from a world in which artificial intelligence (or human clones with artificial brains) can produce bespoke clothing in a manner identical to that used currently by human tailors, complete with built in "individualistic" deviations in details that one sees now in bespoke clothing (like the handsewn buttonholes, for instance, that are never quite identical)? A brave new world of bespoke machine tailors!


Hmm . . , hmm . . , hmm . . . ? :icon_scratch:

NAH!


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## drpeter (Nov 21, 2008)

Flanderian said:


> Hmm . . , hmm . . , hmm . . . ? :icon_scratch:
> 
> NAH!


All right, Flanders, we'll just leave you a bunch of old-fashioned human tailors, while the rest of humanity presses on toward the new world, brave or not, of AI-tailored garments. LOL.

On another note, if cars have computers in them, why not suits? We could have them control the warmth of a garment, adjusting its temperature to a comfortable level, no matter what the ambient temperature might be. This is a long-held dream of mine -- personal heating and cooling for clothing -- HVAC for suits, in short.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

drpeter said:


> All right, Flanders, we'll just leave you a bunch of old-fashioned human tailors, while the rest of humanity presses on toward the new world, brave or not, of AI-tailored garments. LOL.
> 
> On another note, if cars have computers in them, why not suits? We could have them control the warmth of a garment, adjusting its temperature to a comfortable level, no matter what the ambient temperature might be. This is a long-held dream of mine -- personal heating and cooling for clothing -- HVAC for suits, in short.


Got 'ya covered!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

I know I've seen this video before, but don't know if I've posted it. But it's a very handsome pair of shoes IMO, so I'm posting it now if I haven't. If dupe, please advise, and I'll replace it.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Perhaps fundamental, but apt. And I admire the young man's passion and how far he's traveled. Awkward jump cut editing not withstanding. And he has a good _*EYE. *_


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> Perhaps fundamental, but apt. And I admire the young man's passion and how far he's traveled. Awkward jump cut editing not withstanding. And he has a good _*EYE. *_


After watching that video I threw away my iphone and I will never, ever tie a sizeable tie knot, not wanting to give anyone the wrong impression (LOL). Mr Riche's got a rather charming accent. I completely agree with the comment that polishing one's shoes can be very theraputic...almost a Zen experience .An entertaining and instructive video.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Patience can often be rewarded -


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Common foibles of the sartorialist. All need not apply, but some most certainly must! (And you know who you are. And we do too! )


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> Common foibles of the sartorialist. All need not apply, but some most certainly must! (And you know who you are. And we do too! )


Jeez Louise, I can identify with perhaps every word uttered by Mr Ritchie in this video. I kept guiltily looking out the door, down the hall that lead to my "cave" to insure Mrs Eagle wasn't coming down the hall! LOL.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> Jeez Louise, I can identify with perhaps every word uttered by Mr Ritchie in this video. I kept guiltily looking out the door, down the hall that lead to my "cave" to insure Mrs Eagle wasn't coming down the hall! LOL.


I had many of us in mind upon viewing this, myself not excepted! 😆


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Please honk if dupe.


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## ran23 (Dec 11, 2014)

And I being retired, must be the first to meet the Mailman or MailGal.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

ran23 said:


> And I being retired, must be the first to meet the Mailman or MailGal.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Monsieur Riche expounds on *a* way in which to pair ties and PS and an important and very valuable one IMHO. I think it's a great video because it explains in detail several important principles when pairing clothing as to color and pattern, and the use of counterpoint. But as valuable as it is, I take issue with it being *the* way in which to pleasingly pair PS and tie, as there are others.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Monsieur Riche tells us about a shoe from one of Japan's finest makers, JOE Works -


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> Monsieur Riche tells us about a shoe from one of Japan's finest makers, JOE Works -


Just what I needed...another pair of fine shoes to be 'jonesing' for! LOL. Good video though.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> Just what I needed...another pair of fine shoes to be 'jonesing' for! LOL. Good video though.


*DO IT!*


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Amateurish production values with a guy who just looks like the tailor he is. What's the big deal? He *knows* what he's talking about!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Flanderian said:


>


BTW, Cheviot wool need not be tweed, and at least in English is not pronounced Chevi- OH, but rather Chevi - OT.

https://www.google.com/search?q=che...gB9QOSAQMwLjSYAQCgAQHIARPAAQE&sclient=gws-wiz


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Did we see this one?






If dupe, please advise and I'll delete.


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> BTW, Cheviot wool need not be tweed, and at least in English is not pronounced Chevi- OH, but rather Chevi - OT.
> 
> https://www.google.com/search?q=che...gB9QOSAQMwLjSYAQCgAQHIARPAAQE&sclient=gws-wiz


I believe it's actually pronounced chee-vee-ut.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Matt S said:


> I believe it's actually pronounced chee-vee-ut.


May well be, though I believe I've heard used the term Chevi-OT Hills used in film, etc., as the place name associated with the breed of sheep from which this lovely wool derives.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Work of a young master cobbler -


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> Work of a young master cobbler -


I really like the young cobblers work, but not enough to walk away from B. Nelson. Who knows, maybe someday? I really not a fan of the much balyhood sole art. It will be destroyed rather quickly when the shoes are worn...so what's the point? LOL.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> I really like the young cobblers work, but not enough to walk away from B. Nelson. Who knows, maybe someday? I really not a fan of the much balyhood sole art. It will be destroyed rather quickly when the shoes are worn...so what's the point? LOL.


I agree about the sole art, but evidently this young fella takes pleasure in doing it. Interesting accent, Australian?


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


I always love hearing from him!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Dr. Gates' tailor -


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## lightbeard (Mar 23, 2019)

Hope you enjoy


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

lightbeard said:


> Hope you enjoy


I particularly liked the video on the Alden shoe rebuilds. Although I was surprised to learn of the compromised heel construction on the calfskin pair.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

lightbeard said:


> Hope you enjoy


👍 👍 👍


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


A grreat looking pair of kicks, for sure and $2400 may not be a bad price. My AE #8 shell cordovan Leeds that were purchased more than 45 years ago are in my rotation and looking pretty darned good. Amortize a $2400 over a service life of 45 years and the cost dosen't seem so bad....pretty economical in fact. LOL.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> A grreat looking pair of kicks, for sure and $2400 may not be a bad price. My AE #8 shell cordovan Leeds that were purchased more than 45 years ago are in my rotation and looking pretty darned good. Amortize a $2400 over a service life of 45 years and the cost dosen't seem so bad....pretty economical in fact. LOL.


Thought they might float your boat. And if anyone could rationalize a $2,400 pair of shoes . . .


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

An Oldsarge special -


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Very interesting and attractive shoe. Please ignore it being worn entirely inappropriately with dungarees and lavender dress socks. Dress is language. Before you can express yourself coherently, you need to learn what the words mean.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flairball (Dec 9, 2012)

I stumbled upon this discussion, recently. I'm sure some of you will enjoy it.


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## Flairball (Dec 9, 2012)

Here is another, somewhat tongue in cheek, but,&#8230;tweed.


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## Flairball (Dec 9, 2012)

And of course, no play list would be complete without something from Cordings.


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## Flairball (Dec 9, 2012)

As a tweed lover, this is one of my favorites.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Flairball said:


> As a tweed lover, this is one of my favorites.


Some very cool videos! Thank you!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

RM Williams Chelsea in kangaroo-


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> RM Williams Chelsea in kangaroo-


RM Williams Chelsea Boots are a favorite on my shoe racks. I once had five pair and at this point am down to three, two pair being crowded out by Lucchese purchases. LOL.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> RM Williams Chelsea Boots are a favorite on my shoe racks. I once had five pair and at this point am down to three, two pair being crowded out by Lucchese purchases. LOL.


Sounds like you need some more!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


Good information, but in this video Mr Riche' seemed a bit on edge, rubbing his chin to the point I feared he might wear that goatee of his right down to nothing. This one just was not up to par with his other presentations.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> Good information, but in this video Mr Riche' seemed a bit on edge, rubbing his chin to the point I feared he might wear that goatee of his right down to nothing. This one just was not up to par with his other presentations.


He does. And he's aware of it, and I believe he parodies it at the beginning. Comparatively new to sartorialism, his inherent taste, passion and how far he's traveled on his sartorial journey in a short time is impressive to me.

He may be one of those fellows who is somewhat undone by public speaking. I'm another. I either wing it, or prepare down to the last punctuation. But I sometimes melt down.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> He does. And he's aware of it, and I believe he parodies it at the beginning. Comparatively new to sartorialism, his inherent taste, passion and how far he's traveled on his sartorial journey in a short time is impressive to me.
> 
> He may be one of those fellows who is somewhat undone by public speaking. I'm another. I either wing it, or prepare down to the last punctuation. But I sometimes melt down.


Now this one was very well done...Vladimir seemed a whole lot more relaxed and I now know a lot more about his background!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

If dupe, please advise.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Both voluminous and passionate, I feel the information in this video should be enjoyed for what it is. Some observations may not be entirely correct, or the conclusions drawn from them and stated as fact, accurate. But there's an awful of lot of good and informative material presented in an entertaining format.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Will delete if dupe.


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## paxonus (Dec 26, 2016)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

paxonus said:


>


Very cool! Thanks! 👍


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


An excellent presentation, both informative and entertaining. I was struck by the knowledge that the Chap has a small get-a-way in the woods, similar to AAAC member peak and pine. Although I think that Peak and Pine has converted his to use as a woodland closet for his ever expanding wardrobe! Good men, both of them!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Very valuable information; clearly and knowledgably presented -


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## Flairball (Dec 9, 2012)

I came across this, today. We had a bit of a discussion about this recently, so its somewhat relevant.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


Some very thoughtful observations. Valadamir does seem to have a thing for suede shoes and I can certainly appreciated that fascination of his. As seems to be the standard, he has put out another fine video.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> Some very thoughtful observations. Valadamir does seem to have a thing for suede shoes and I can certainly appreciated that fascination of his. As seems to be the standard, he has put out another fine video.


Me too. Suede, that is. Made in the suede!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Lots of good stuff -


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Good cheap shoes, cheap.

Uniform shoes, not fashion. Current shoe has solid rubber heel and linen vamp lining. Upper may be corrected grain leather.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> Good cheap shoes, cheap.
> 
> Uniform shoes, not fashion. Current shoes has solid rubber heel and linen vamp lining. Upper may be corrected grain leather.


It would appear that the Brits issue a somewhat more elegant shoe than the issued pairs given to we yanks. Within perhaps 12 months of my entering active service, my go-to low quarters were AE Leeds, in black cowhide. I started out with the shell cordovan Leeds, but realized quickly they didn't take well to repeated spit shining! Bummer.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> It would appear that the Brits issue a somewhat more elegant shoe than the issued pairs given to we yanks. Within perhaps 12 months of my entering active service, my go-to low quarters were AE Leeds, in black cowhide. I started out with the shell cordovan Leeds, but realized quickly they didn't take well to repeated spit shining! Bummer.


Should have tried Glo Coat. One character in basic used it instead of spit-shining. Worked great! Until they literally fell apart! 

My low quarters simply didn't fit. But once at my permanent duty station, I wore my Class-A's like, never! Had my folks send me a pair of my civie shoes, which while entirely unmilitary, :icon_cheers: still squeaked under the regs.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


A very thorough review for sure, but not sufficient to convince me to add to my way over stocked shoe racks.....thank gawd. However for a work boot, I would be shopping for a design incorporating a somewhat darker hue for the leather.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> A very thorough review for sure, but not sufficient to convince me to add to my way over stocked shoe racks.....thank gawd. However for a work boot, I would be shopping for a design incorporating a somewhat darker hue for the leather.


Very true! And I would think form much time outdoors in rough terrain and weather one would as well. But this and similar shades seem popular in Britain for such purposes, so maybe an eventual weathered appearance for them is desirable.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Flanderian said:


> Very true! And I would think form much time outdoors in rough terrain and weather one would as well. But this and similar shades seem popular in Britain for such purposes, so maybe an eventual weathered appearance for them is desirable.


BOY, do I need an edit button! 😕


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Nice review of a very handsome, superior quality boot. I believe however the reviewer has his terminology a bit confused, a toe cap does not an oxford make. Rather the distinguishing characteristic of an oxford is a closed throat. An open throat such as this is termed either a blucher or derby, US/UK.

And lord, where'd he get those socks!?


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

I don't personally wear the aesthetic which Corthay shoes embody, but I respect the art and artisanship which creates them. Handmade in France the workmanship is exquisite and their aesthetic is like none other. One hallmark of this is the remarkable and unusual (Wild?) patinas that they apply when creating these masterpieces.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


A well laid out and very persuasive argument. I think I might put on a suit when I go out to mail off my Tax returns, later today! Naw,,,at my age, I think a vented fishing shirt will be sufficiently dressy for mailing off correspondence to the IRS. LOL.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> A well laid out and very persuasive argument. I think I might put on a suit when I go out to mail off my Tax returns, later today! Naw,,,at my age, I think a vented fishing shirt will be sufficiently dressy for mailing off correspondence to the IRS. LOL.


Mr. Riche's enjoyment of suits as everyday wear is an outlier and a bit of an anachronism, but a glorious one! Gentlemen of taste are are so drastically lacking and so sorely needed. They raise the tone, and provide aesthetic pleasure for all with whom they associate. A signifier respect for themselves and others. 

A renewal of the manly art of dressing well.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


Interesting, for sure. It is not often we see others working their sidearm into their wardrobe as an accessory....yes, no?


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## ran23 (Dec 11, 2014)

And think of the additional Leathers to match.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> Interesting, for sure. It is not often we see others working their sidearm into their wardrobe as an accessory....yes, no?





eagle2250 said:


> Interesting, for sure. It is not often we see others working their sidearm into their wardrobe as an accessory....yes, no?


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


I liked the video, but love the Double Monk Shell Cordovan/Russian Leather boots. Wish the narrator had provided a price! LOL


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> I liked the video, but love the Double Monk Shell Cordovan/Russian Leather boots. Wish the narrator had provided a price! LOL


*$2-MUCH $$$! *


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Something for StephenRG!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> Something for StephenRG!


Good gawd, I do hate snakes and generally do everything in my power to maintain a considerable distance between myself and any snakes known to be in my area. However, I agree with the Shoesnob and his assessment of the shoes featured in this video. They are a handsome design and the tightness of the scales on the python hide the shoes are made from, leave me thinking I could almost bear to have them on my feet. Also, I do like the idea of a somewhat overbuilt loafer. Just saying......


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> Good gawd, I do hate snakes and generally do everything in my power to maintain a considerable distance between myself and any snakes known to be in my area. However, I agree with the Shoesnob and his assessment of the shoes featured in this video. They are a handsome design and the tightness of the scales on the python hide the shoes are made from, leave me thinking I could almost bear to have them on my feet. Also, I do like the idea of a somewhat overbuilt loafer. Just saying......


A bit too vivid for my tastes, but right on all accounts.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


Suffice it to say that that is a whole lot of well crafted she for $300! I am thinking about it?


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


Interesting video offering useful advice on dressing properly, but I must tell you the two you tube videos showcasing "Leon the Lobster" being rescued from a grocery store seafood bar and after a couple of months in a 50 gallon tank, being moved to a larger 125 gallon aquarium provided 31 minutes of fascinating viewing! Just saying.......


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> Interesting video offering useful advice on dressing properly, but I must tell you the two you tube videos showcasing "Leon the Lobster" being rescued from a grocery store seafood bar and after a couple of months in a 50 gallon tank, being moved to a larger 125 gallon aquarium provided 31 minutes of fascinating viewing! Just saying.......


But would look much better with drawn butter!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Post in error.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Post in error


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


An entertainingly and instructively detailed narrative and most surprisingly, a very candid conclusionary statement of the intrinsic value of the brands shoe designs. On that basis alone, this was a great video!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> An entertainingly and instructively detailed narrative and most surprisingly, a very candid conclusionary statement of the intrinsic value of the brands shoe designs. On that basis alone, this was a great video!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


Well done and an excellent litany of recommendations for future viewing that will build on the base of knowledge provided by the video at hand!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> Well done and an excellent litany of recommendations for future viewing that will build on the base of knowledge provided by the video at hand!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## drpeter (Nov 21, 2008)

Potter and Sons refurbishing a classic pair of Florsheim Imperials. Just lovely.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


Nice boots and a belt to match, not badly priced at $460 for both. The grained leather does appeal to me and from the video it does appear that the boots are well made. If I were a few years younger, I just might buy a pair?. LOL,


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> Nice boots and a belt to match, not badly priced at $460 for both. The grained leather does appeal to me and from the video it does appear that the boots are well made. If I were a few years younger, I just might buy a pair?. LOL,


Well, SORRY, but you're just not going to get any younger!










So you better buy them now, before it gets too late! 

(Young whippersnappers! )


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## drpeter (Nov 21, 2008)

Flanderian said:


>


Interesting information, insofar as I could make out what was being conveyed.

Something I really don't understand about the production of this and many other short videos: Why is there a need for the continuous and often loud or intrusive music that accompanies the voice that provides information? If anything, the music interferes with the clarity and audibility of what is being said. This is especially evident in a video like this one where the speaker has a relatively pronounced accent, is speaking quite fast in a low voice, and is providing a fair bit of information in a short period of time along with the visuals. The music adds nothing at all to the information provided. In fact, it interferes with the perception of what is being provided.

The indiscriminate use of music in all sorts of situations -- social, educational, even interpersonal -- appears to be something we have slid into automatically as a society over the decades. Perhaps it started out as an attempt to seem sophisticated or to provide some sort of atmosphere or ambiance which conveyed elegance. I frequently hear loud music, often dictated by some person's individual taste, in restaurants, shops, gyms, and all sorts of other places that are public or semi-public. It leads me to suspect that one of the most valuable qualities of our lives, the presence of silence, is so undervalued that people feel a compulsive need to fill that silence with music (or often what seems to be a kind of organized cacophony).

I love music, but I much prefer to listen to my own selections of it with undivided attention, not as an afterthought dictated by someone else's taste, or as an unwanted background to something else I am doing with concentration or attention. I've studied attention in the laboratory as a cognitive psychologist for close to forty years, and I can assure you that attention to multiple sources is never 100% effective. There is no such thng as 100% effective dual-tasking, let alone multi-tasking, where one or more tasks do not suffer a performance deficit. Why not give music its due, and other tasks you are performing their due?


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

You've put that well. 🇺🇦


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## drpeter (Nov 21, 2008)

Thank you, Peaks.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


That was the first pair of shoes he unboxed that came with a full blown shoe care kit, packaged in a nice segmented cloth carrying case...sorta like the canvas wrap that houses my beloved Craftsman wrenches. I guess if one blows enough cash on a new pair of high end shoes, they will take care of all the little things?


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

I realize it may be futile to ask an audience grown accustomed to 5 second video clips to invest the time it takes to appreciate this video. But this beautiful one hour documentary is truly something special. In it Patrick Grant, an English designer who I believe may have started as a tailor tours heritage British makers all over Britain of the good stuff that makes the clothing made from it so special. This is an hour of your time that will be richly rewarded. (If you want to cheat, Harris Tweed begins around the 17 minute mark.)


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> I realize it may be futile to ask an audience grown accustomed to 5 second video clips to invest the time it takes to appreciate this video. But this beautiful one hour documentary is truly something special. In it Patrick Grant, an English designer who I believe may have started as a tailor tours heritage British makers all over Britain of the good stuff that makes the clothing made from it so special. This is an hour of your time that will be richly rewarded. (If you want to cheat, Harris Tweed begins around the 17 minute mark.)


I'm sure the video is a good one, but alas, the gym awaits. Due to it's length, I'll have to save this video for later.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> I'm sure the video is a good one, but alas, the gym awaits. Due to it's length, I'll have to save this video for later.


At your leisure, sir!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


Love the shoes and the narration is tones so as to encourage the viewer/listener to run right out and order a pair!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> Love the shoes and the narration is tones so as to encourage the viewer/listener to run right out and order a pair!


Yup! You need a pair!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


A very handsome pair of Vass Shoes, for sure. I do so like the grained leather on the heels and toe caps.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> A very handsome pair of Vass Shoes, for sure. I do so like the grained leather on the heels and toe caps.


I think so too. Love Adelaides!

The subtle contrast of smooth and grain of the same color always makes a subtle, low-key contrast. These could be worn for most business with no other comment than, "Nice shoes!"


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Posted in error.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

The Critic:

A fun video, and mostly correct, IMHO. But I demur on sandals. Believe they can be worn for casual summer occasions. Provided they're not *ugly* sandals!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


Provided a whole lot of useful information for the viewers consideration on things that just might improve the overall quality of our daily lives!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Possible dupe, but if so, worth revisiting.

Beautiful clothing, lovely production values and keen insight into timeless sartorial verities. Irrespective of your personal sartorial preferences, lessons well worth learning from a 20th Century sartorial icon..


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


The video above is one of his best. I just may have to order one of those blazers he featured in the video.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> The video above is one of his best. I just may have to order one of those blazers he featured in the video.


Looks good, doesn't it?


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Do not be fooled by the humble surroundings and unpretentious manner of the cobbler. There are simple, well done resoles, and there is using this need to create a masterpiece. Watch patiently, and your patience will be rewarded.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

For the man who wears bespoke hiking shoes -


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

The shoe magician!


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

A magnificent video which shows you the entire process of a Japanese master cordwainer making a pair of wild boar hide boots from start to finish. Should you not wish to watch the entire process, I suggest fast-forwarding to last few minutes to watch the final touches and admire the finished product.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

A fictional entertainment for for sartorialists -


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## drpeter (Nov 21, 2008)

Flanderian said:


> A magnificent video which shows you the entire process of a Japanese master cordwainer making a pair of wild boar hide boots from start to finish. Should you not wish to watch the entire process, I suggest fast-forwarding to last few minutes to watch the final touches and admire the finished product.


It's astonishing! Thanks for posting this video, Flanders. I watched the entire show. I think Japanese cordwainers are the equal of any in the world, just as fine as Laszlo Vass or John Lobb. The painstaking attention to detail, and the exquisite hand tools used by the shoemaker impressed me no end. In a time when fine craftsmen are disappearing and not being replaced fast enough, it is refreshing to note that there are still a few who continue the tradition of work and craft established by the fine artisans of old.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> A fictional entertainment for for sartorialists -


Were the choice mine, I would be looking for a different tailor! Just saying......


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

drpeter said:


> It's astonishing! Thanks for posting this video, Flanders. I watched the entire show. I think Japanese cordwainers are the equal of any in the world, just as fine as Laszlo Vass or John Lobb. The painstaking attention to detail, and the exquisite hand tools used by the shoemaker impressed me no end. In a time when fine craftsmen are disappearing and not being replaced fast enough, it is refreshing to note that there are still a few who continue the tradition of work and craft established by the fine artisans of old.


IMO, as fine as Vass or Lobb are the top Japanese artisan makers surpass both.



eagle2250 said:


> Were the choice mine, I would be looking for a different tailor! Just saying......


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Does your tailor throw parties like this!?


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Glory Days!*

Interview with AAAC alumnus and and publisher of seminal men's style blog, _ A Suitable Wardrobe, _Will Boehlke -


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

A walk on the wild side. Not to my taste but Justin's enthusiasm as a professional with his own line is telling. Perhaps StephenRG might enjoy them better as his tastes are more daring.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Can't tell a lot from this short video without commentary, and don't know the maker of the split toe, hatch grain derby, but I think they're gorgeous. And the quality looks superb!


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

Flanderian said:


> Can't tell a lot from this short video without commentary, and* don't know the maker *of the split toe, hatch grain derby, but I think they're gorgeous.


You didn't see the Sons of Henrey logo upper left?

They're €318, which is about 321 US, but nix to these as they don't appear to come in widths, or lengths longer than 11. Pretty shoe though.

From their web page...


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## lightbeard (Mar 23, 2019)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

lightbeard said:


>


Nice! 

Thanks for posting.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Here's one for StephenRG! 

By brand Michael Darren. The shoes are Blake-stitched and made in Italy. The brand was created by an MD who became intrigued with the art of patina, and taught himself this skill, after which he wanted to offer the same look via RTW. Not my cup of tea, but beautifully made and artfully conceived for those far more adventuresome than me.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> Here's one for StephenRG!
> 
> By brand Michael Darren. The shoes are Blake-stitched and made in Italy. The brand was created by an MD who became intrigued with the art of patina, and taught himself this skill, after which he wanted to offer the same look via RTW. Not my cup of tea, but beautifully made and artfully conceived for those far more adventuresome than me.


I agree with the shoe snob on his conclusions regarding the support provided by Blake welted shoes. However, at the price quoted the shoes unboxed today seem a good value and with the patination a completed process,they are indeed handsome Just saying.........


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> I agree with the shoe snob on his conclusions regarding the support provided by Blake welted shoes. However, at the price quoted the shoes unboxed today seem a good value and with the patination a completed process,they are indeed handsome Just saying.........


Have you name on them?


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> Have you name on them?


Michael Darren is the brand name and Whole cut Dress shoe is the style. That is all I know.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> Michael Darren is the brand name and Whole cut Dress shoe is the style. That is all I know.


My errant fingers intended to type, "Do they have *your* name on them?"


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> My errant fingers intended to type, "Do they have *your* name on them?"


Not this time, as I am still waiting on delivery of a pair of loafers I ordered from Rancourt several months back. It was one of those deals where you order and pay for them now and they ship them when they are built. The projected delivery date has been pushed forward three times at this point. It is a bit disappointing as I have never had a problem with Rancourt shoes in the past.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> Not this time, as I am still waiting on delivery of a pair of loafers I ordered from Rancourt several months back. It was one of those deals where you order and pay for them now and they ship them when they are built. The projected delivery date has been pushed forward three times at this point. It is a bit disappointing as I have never had a problem with Rancourt shoes in the past.


How do you do with the Rancourt fit? I have one pair in my regular size (11D) and found them too large and seemingly not friendly for my feet?


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> How do you do with the Rancourt fit? I have one pair in my regular size (11D) and found them too large and seemingly not friendly for my feet?


So far I've been pretty lucky with the Rancourt fit. Being blessed with an arguably wide forefoot, the generously sized toe boxes on Rancourt designs seem to serve me well. Having said that, watch as this pair of Rancourts yet to be delivered will prove not to fit me........LOL.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> So far I've been pretty lucky with the Rancourt fit. Being blessed with an arguably wide forefoot, the generously sized toe boxes on Rancourt designs seem to serve me well. Having said that, watch as this pair of Rancourts yet to be delivered will prove not to fit me........LOL.


Thanks! 

Funny, the toe box on mine isn't particularly broad, but that may be because I haven't really worn them very much. Heels are too broad, but that's a common problem I have with many traditional American casual shoes.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Vlad having fun with you! But valid info IMHO, particularly for any new to serious shoes.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

A short video with unfortunately two thirds of it devoted to the packaging.  Yet it's worth seeing for the gorgeous Duke model Adelaide in plum museum calf from Yeossal. On a classic last with nearly spade soles and a waist so tiny it looks like an optical illusion.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Flanderian said:


>


The shoes examined are incredibly kind to one's eyes. Alas, I seem to be in love once again, but trust me on this, it is by nature a purely platonic love.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> The shoes examined are incredibly kind to one's eyes. Alas, I seem to be in love once again, but trust me on this, it is by nature a purely platonic love.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Acct2000 (Sep 24, 2005)

This guy is actually a financial planner, but he has a great tie budget and presents really well. Very nice ties. I know a lot of people won't favor the Full Windsor knots he prefers, but he does a great job keeping the knot from getting too big. (This is from a guy who almost never wears Full Windsor Knots)


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