# Suit Wrinkle Advice



## detaildoc (Dec 31, 2005)

I recently had my first "bespoke" suit made, by WW Chan in Shanghai.

While I am quite happy with the suit fit and construction, the fabric (solid navy Super 130's Vitale Barbaris) loves to hold onto wrinkles. Like I wore it for once and 2 weeks later the elbow area still has wrinkles. I don't own a steamer as none of my other fairly decent suits do this.

Any advice other than buy a steamer?


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## sowilson (Jul 27, 2009)

nope, buy a steamer


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## Drogue (Mar 24, 2009)

Any recommendations on a steamer to buy? How much do you need to spend on one? Also, how often should you steam it (is it ok to steam it after each wear)? I'm in a similar position to the OP (though my suit is a bit less prone to wrinkles).


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## Andy (Aug 25, 2002)

Drogue said:


> Any recommendations on a steamer to buy? How much do you need to spend on one? Also, how often should you steam it (is it ok to steam it after each wear)? I'm in a similar position to the OP (though my suit is a bit less prone to wrinkles).


 !!!

Have you never looked at the two pages linked in the upper left corner of this page?

*Andy's Recommendations Page*

*Ask Andy Selected Merchants for Menswear, Shoes, and Grooming *

Look for this and then you'll see the "My Little Steamer" from Amazon.com BUT please go through the banner on this site!!

_I used to own 5 steamers. I just ordered one of these and then immediately ordered a second one! _
_It's the best steamer I've found. Hold lots of water (tap) and heats up immediately! Doesn't run out of steam and is so much easier to use that those with an attached tank. _​


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## jefferyd (Sep 5, 2008)

Don't buy a steamer. Buy an iron. No tailor would ever suggest using a steamer on a suit (I am one, by the way). And yes, there are legions of people who will say they use one and it works fine but they are unaware of how it is affecting the fit and finish of the suit, and have never noticed what it can do to the seams, which is fine if they want to save time and money but since you cared enough to go bespoke, you should care enough to care for it properly. You suit won't look the same if you steam it or hang it in a steamy bathroom.

EDIT- I was posting at the same time as Andy. And though I stand by my statement, I mean no disrespect to him.


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## ExpertiseInNone (Nov 5, 2008)

I have heard to steam the suit or to put it in the bathroom when showering. I mean not to contest what jefferyd is saying. When traveling, I use the steam method for the two travel suits I have, and I have seen no deterioration in those two suits. However, I would like to hear more opinions on this topic.


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## jefferyd (Sep 5, 2008)

Traditional tailoring involves shaping the wool a bit like when they stretch a flat skin over a shoe last to give it shape. We use steam to relax the fiber, shape the garment, then allow it to dry before moving it, then the shape is semi-permanent (like curling hair with a curling iron). We also use steam and pressure to shrink and stretch parts of the garment to give it shape. This shaping is all lost when the garment is exposed to steam; you may not notice it but the fit will not be the same unless given to a qualified presser to go over again. Most seams also have some stretching and fulling will will relax when exposed to humidity- the seams can pucker and puff up a bit instead of sitting clean and flat. Steam in the wrong parts, like around the sleeve cap, can cause serious puckering which can be very difficult or impossible to get rid of.

Most of these things would not be obvious to someone unless it was pointed out to them, though the suit would certainly not look as fresh as when it was new (or recently pressed) but once it has been pointed out to you it becomes painfully obvious.

So again, if you interested in a quick, easy, cheap fix, steam your suit, but don't expect it to be as nice as it was when new. If you spent good money (or scored a great deal) and want to take proper care of your garment, use an iron to touch it up or give it to a professional for a proper pressing. You probably wouldn't take an Aston Martin through the gas station car wash, you would probably have it detailed; do the same for your suits and they will last longer.


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## Herrsuit (Aug 4, 2009)

jefferyd, you mentioned an iron? I never considered ironing a suit. I just assumed that was a bad idea.

I steam the wrinkles out of the back that come from sitting in a chair, but never steam the front or cuffs. It allows me to go a while between pressings and I've never noticed any effects on that particular area of my suits.


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## jefferyd (Sep 5, 2008)

Herrsuit said:


> I steam the wrinkles out of the back that come from sitting in a chair, but never steam the front or cuffs. It allows me to go a while between pressings and I've never noticed any effects on that particular area of my suits.


The back gets a good deal of what we call "ironwork" to create room for the shoulder blades and a smoother fit through the waist; you wouldn't necessarily notice it right away, it just wouldn't look right until it was repressed and then it would be like bringing it back to life again. That is, if you could see your back when wearing the suit.

The thing about ironing versus steaming is that you are putting pressure on the garment on a flat or shaped surface which helps to maintain the shape and prevent puckering. In a suit factory during the summer months, sometimes it gets too humid so the suits have to be repressed so they look fresh when shipped. When suits are shipped in containers form overseas factories, they have silica gel packets placed with every suit to absorb any humidity sealed into the container so that they keep their appearance. You may never have noticed the effects because they were never pointed out to you, and you couldn't be expected to see what a pro sees- unless you seek to be educated which, presumably, is why you are here.


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## Sean Archer (Mar 29, 2009)

jefferyd said:


> The back gets a good deal of what we call "ironwork" to create room for the shoulder blades and a smoother fit through the waist; you wouldn't necessarily notice it right away, it just wouldn't look right until it was repressed and then it would be like bringing it back to life again. That is, if you could see your back when wearing the suit.
> 
> The thing about ironing versus steaming is that you are putting pressure on the garment on a flat or shaped surface which helps to maintain the shape and prevent puckering. In a suit factory during the summer months, sometimes it gets too humid so the suits have to be repressed so they look fresh when shipped. When suits are shipped in containers form overseas factories, they have silica gel packets placed with every suit to absorb any humidity sealed into the container so that they keep their appearance. You may never have noticed the effects because they were never pointed out to you, and you couldn't be expected to see what a pro sees- unless you seek to be educated which, presumably, is why you are here.


Use the iron's steam ability. If it works, forget the steamer. Though I assume a steamer would be less clunky and work in a position other than flat down.


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## Herrsuit (Aug 4, 2009)

jefferyd said:


> The back gets a good deal of what we call "ironwork" to create room for the shoulder blades and a smoother fit through the waist; you wouldn't necessarily notice it right away, it just wouldn't look right until it was repressed and then it would be like bringing it back to life again. That is, if you could see your back when wearing the suit.
> 
> The thing about ironing versus steaming is that you are putting pressure on the garment on a flat or shaped surface which helps to maintain the shape and prevent puckering. In a suit factory during the summer months, sometimes it gets too humid so the suits have to be repressed so they look fresh when shipped. When suits are shipped in containers form overseas factories, they have silica gel packets placed with every suit to absorb any humidity sealed into the container so that they keep their appearance. You may never have noticed the effects because they were never pointed out to you, and you couldn't be expected to see what a pro sees- unless you seek to be educated which, presumably, is why you are here.


Thanks for the information, that is indeed why I am here.


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## jefferyd (Sep 5, 2008)

Sean Archer said:


> Use the iron's steam ability. If it works, forget the steamer. Though I assume a steamer would be less clunky and work in a position other than flat down.


If you use it like a steamer, it does the same thing. If you steam a sleeve, you get a kink just about the hem from where the stretched topsleeve relaxes. If you put the sleeve flat and press the wrinkles out, you can avoid the kink.

Let me give a more visual example of what I mean by ironwork. We were having a discussion of the merits of ironwork on another forum and someone wanted to see the results so I showed a pair of trousers I was making. I showed them how a trouser sewn with no ironwork has extra length in the back which will puddle and not hang nicely (notice the pleat near the knee)










This is the pant sewn together for a fitting but without the ironwork- notice how it droops around my knees instead of hanging in a clean line.










I then took them apart and did the ironwork, stretching the seams, shrinking some parts and working some shape into it. Notice that there is no pleat anymore and that the crease is not straight but is curved like my leg.










Now notice the difference in fit










If you steam the trouser, it will sag and look like the first photo. You may not notice any difference unless I pointed it out, but now do you see a difference? The same applies to the coat. If you apply steam without pressure, and if you iron incorrectly, you remove the shaping that the tailor put in, and you can cause trouble like puckering seams and sagging hems.


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## drrac2 (Mar 25, 2006)

Very interesting. So for individuals who do not have time to iron, would you recommend a steamer or a pressing by a dry cleaners?

Thanks


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## SeptemberSun (Aug 19, 2009)

I have ironed my suits in the past and it seems to work well. Should the iron be on the lowest setting with no moisture? I've done it this way out of caution but would love to hear if there is a proper way to do this. Cheers


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## damon54 (Dec 12, 2007)

*My Tailors instructions*

JeffreyD,
I am here to learn as well & appreciate you sharing your expertise.

I had a tailor just finish some extensive work on as expensive a suit as I will ever own. Towards the end of my visit his intructions were to never have this garment dry cleaned. Pressed only for the rest of its days.

I will be looking for a suitable place in Dallas to help follow his intructions.


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## jefferyd (Sep 5, 2008)

drrac2 said:


> Very interesting. So for individuals who do not have time to iron, would you recommend a steamer or a pressing by a dry cleaners?
> 
> Thanks


That's a trick question. I don't think pressing takes any more time than steaming, but that's just me. If you steam your trousers you lose the crease so you have to iron them so you're no further ahead. Many dry cleaners lack adequate pressing facilities- check around for a good one or for a really good pressing service like Madame Paulette.



SeptemberSun said:


> I have ironed my suits in the past and it seems to work well. Should the iron be on the lowest setting with no moisture? I've done it this way out of caution but would love to hear if there is a proper way to do this. Cheers


Medium heat (wool setting) and it's best to use a press cloth to avoid shine. any cotton rag will do, muslin or drill is best, just wash it a few times to get all the sizing out first.



damon54 said:


> .
> 
> I had a tailor just finish some extensive work on as expensive a suit as I will ever own. Towards the end of my visit his intructions were to never have this garment dry cleaned. Pressed only for the rest of its days.
> 
> I will be looking for a suitable place in Dallas to help follow his intructions.


I think most tailors would tell you the same thing. It's not so much the chemical bath but the potentially terrible pressing (read- being squished flat in a machine) or worse, that inflatable steam dummy. I have bad dreams at night about that steam dummy. That steam dummy and bad cleaner pressing are so horrible for a suit, and it's the steam dummy that is the leading cause of suit delamination (fusing bubbles), not the actual cleaning process.

I know a good tailor who used to work in Dallas and may be able to recommend someone; I'll ask him if he can help.

J


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## Andy (Aug 25, 2002)

I've done some research on this and *jefferyd *is absolutely correct!!

Steam on the canvased portion of a suit can do serious damage as well as on the fused portion of a suit.

Steaming is OK on trousers, suit/sport jacket sleeves and back, but never on the front!

Thanks jefferyd!


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## jefferyd (Sep 5, 2008)

The preferred way to touch up a jacket is using a sleeve board- this way you can maintain the shape and the weight of the jacket will rest on the ironing board instead of dragging off it. The coat has shape- it is not flat. To maintain the shape, careful pressing is required.

Touch up only areas that are wrinkled and really need it. I'll cover all the major trouble spots. Use a press cloth under your iron.

BACK

insert the wide end of the sleeve board into the shoulder and press. Do not pull or stretch near the armhole or near the center back seam- they should be kept short (shrunk a little).










If you have vents, inserting a piece of stiff paper will prevent press marks on the layer underneath (do the same with flaps)










Work your way around the sides










Insert the wide part of the board into the shoulder, try to keep the stripes straight










Press along the front edge with the dart lined up along the outer edge of teh board (very important!)










Never press the chest flat with the dart over the board like this- always work in sections with the dart at the edge










Align the roll line with the edge of the board to press the lapel










Insert the board into the sleeve to press the eblow










Alternately you can press the sleeve flat, keeping the seam about 1" inside the fold. Do not crease (unless you are Prince Charles)










Use the board to touch up the top sleeve- stay away from the cap area which is VERY delicate.










Wear in good health.


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## damon54 (Dec 12, 2007)

JefferyD,
Any information on a place to perform this level of service in Dallas would be greatly appreciated!!


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## Beau (Oct 4, 2007)

*Could my cleaner's have caused my blazer to increase in size?*

jefferyd,

Your information is the best. You are an asset to this forum.

Recently I took my navy wool blazer (a Samuelsohn in a diamond weave 100's) and had them press it for me. When it came back to me, I didn't notice any puckering around the sleeve-head or the side seams, but the garment felt one size larger.

I lost about 13 lbs. last summer, but only recently has this blazer felt like it was now too large through the shoulder and body. My alteration tailor in Charlotte is taking in the center seam and the sides probably 1/2".

Could there be any correlation?


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## jefferyd (Sep 5, 2008)

Beau said:


> jefferyd,
> 
> Your information is the best. You are an asset to this forum.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Beau.

I don't understand how, but I suppose it is possible. Garments normally shrink a little in production and we monitor this; I have, on occasion, found garments which were somehow a little BIGGER than the pattern though we were never able to determine why. We think that in rare cases some cloth may relax when submitted to humidity. Just one of those things.... Who did the pressing?

J


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## Tonyp (May 8, 2007)

Good info. I have always pressed my suits as you have shown Jeffreyd. I have always thought that steam was not the best way to go.


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## Beau (Oct 4, 2007)

jefferyd said:


> Thanks, Beau.
> 
> I don't understand how, but I suppose it is possible. Garments normally shrink a little in production and we monitor this; I have, on occasion, found garments which were somehow a little BIGGER than the pattern though we were never able to determine why. We think that in rare cases some cloth may relax when submitted to humidity. Just one of those things.... Who did the pressing?
> 
> J


My usual cleaner/laundry service. I live in a small town in SC outside of Charlotte, NC. Long's Cleaners is a reputable and expensive name in Charlotte. A Long's family member has several stores in my county. Perhaps I should have asked for a low moisture hand pressing. This time I had my wife just drop it off to be pressed. In the past when I have asked for a low moisture press, the counter girls sort of stare at me like I have two heads.

Maybe a shirt board purchase is in my future.


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## jefferyd (Sep 5, 2008)

damon54 said:


> JefferyD,
> Any information on a place to perform this level of service in Dallas would be greatly appreciated!!


I have this from the best possible source-

Cox Drycleaners and Laundry
214-369-2962
5927 Greenville Avenue
Dallas TX 75206

J


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## damon54 (Dec 12, 2007)

Much appreciated!! PM sent with alternate question.


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## eissal (Jul 31, 2008)

Just curious. What if you wear the suit in the heat and you perspire? How do you clean it without sending to cleaners?


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## damon54 (Dec 12, 2007)

I have trained my body to prevent this.
Just kidding.
I guess it hangs in open air until no odors are present??


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## Ethan_Boston (Apr 21, 2009)

*Finding a dry cleaner????*

So- after reading this I want to make sure my dry cleaner doesn't ruin my suit....do I just want to make sure they don't steam press it? Do most dry cleaners steam press suits??

Thanks,

Ethan


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## PJC in NoVa (Jan 23, 2005)

Ethan_Boston said:


> So- after reading this I want to make sure my dry cleaner doesn't ruin my suit....do I just want to make sure they don't steam press it? Do most dry cleaners steam press suits??
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ethan


It's incredibly unlikely that any commercial laundry is going to go through all the evolutions with the small ironing board, etc., that are pictured above. Laundries are industrial operations that handle things as quickly and with as much automation as possible in order to maximize volume. If you really want this done and can't do it yourself, I'd suggest looking for a skilled alterations tailor, as I have run across a few of these guys who are pretty wizardly when it comes to pressing. Expect to pay a fair amount for the service.

Personally, I do use a hand steamer on my suits, but only on the high-wrinkle areas such as the area across the back just above the coattails, plus the inside crook of the elbow where I get those "accordion" wrinkles, especially when the weather is warm and humid (wrinkles are much less of a problem in the winter). There are no ill effects from this kind of steaming. I don't bathe whole suits in shower steam, nor would I ever direct steam at areas where there is canvas backing or a fusible behind the fabric (and then again, my coats don't wrinkle there anyway).


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## makingmark (Jun 22, 2008)

*Thank you JefferyD*

...for posting all of that, including the photos.

I am a poster example of what you mention. I started using a steamer after I was on a film shoot and the production crew used it to get wrinkles out of my (luckily) cheap suit. It seemed like a miracle, a quicker & easier way to remove wrinkles.

But eventually I noticed that the suit pants stopped looking fresh, somehow, and it's as you say - there's puckering in the seams.

Out of curiousity - when you say "press" with the iron, are you pushing down, lifting the iron and moving, then pushing down...repeat? Or do you push down and pull the iron down the length of the cloth?

It seems like the former would be better for the cloth...but I've only seen people do the latter.


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## csh212 (Dec 23, 2008)

*hanger/shoulder stretch (elastic limit --> yield point?!?)*

Today, I went for my final basting visit for a tuxedo i'm having MTM and i noticed that between this visit and last visit (2 weeks ago) the jacket was hung on the correct Isaia hanger, but off center. Thus, the right arm just inferior to the shoulder apex seemed stretched out from the hanger protruding. When asked the tailor said not to worry the suit will be pressed not to worry. The fabric seems to be quite durable, being that is an Aquaspider super 110, however, how resiliant it may is my concern. Any thought on my petty concers?!?

Thx


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## windsor (Dec 12, 2006)

Can you describe what a steam dummy is and what the ill effects are of this treatment? Are the pants affected too? I think my dry cleaner uses one, but I have never seen it.


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## csh212 (Dec 23, 2008)

Do your pants seem shorter since the day you brought the suit home?


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

To come at this from a different angle: if you don't like wrinkles, stay away from those high numbers! Higher thread count, or whatever that number means, does not automatically mean better.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

*PRESSING?*

get a real press cloth. go to your local fabric store. ask for "drill", its an all cotton heavy weight cloth. 
buy just one yard, its about $3.00. 
toss it in the washer along with the hot water laundry for the full cycle. 
you will need to iron it flat.
now cut a strip 12"wide down the length, this will be long enough to crease any trouser leg. 
the rest can be cut into several smaller more convenient pieces.
curves can be cut one side of a cloth to more easily fit into the curves.
like the crotch and the armholes.

you will then have a lifetime supply of press cloths.


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## Timeless Fashion (Apr 12, 2009)

As mentioned above, a higher super number may wrinkle more than a lower number. Also in general, lighter weight wool (e.g. 8/9 oz) wrinkles more than heavier weight wool (e.g 14/15 oz). Fresco seems to be fairly wrinkle-resistant in my personal experience. Are there any other factors to consider when selecting a fabric for a MTM/bespoke suit or jacket?


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## phr33dom (May 4, 2009)

jefferyd said:


> Medium heat (wool setting) and it's best to use a press cloth to avoid shine. any cotton rag will do, muslin or drill is best
> 
> J


OK the fabric should be dry, the iron should be dry, however, should the press cloth be damp or dry?

I've just had a bespoke woollen suit made for me in Thailand and when I took it out of the suitcase at home there was a big 10" long diagonal quite sharp crease across the lower front (fused) section of the jacket due to the way it was dog-eared and stored in the suitcase during transit. Just wondering the best way to go about removing this crease. Any ideas?


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## 10gallonhat (Dec 13, 2009)

I just take mine to the dry cleaner and tell them to press them without cleaning them. Not sure if that's right or wrong as I've only done it a few times for each suit. A couple of my jackets do like to wrinkle quite easily but if the wrinkles aren't too noticeable and I'm not wearing them to anything important, I'll just wear them.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

this is the way your tailor dose it.
the dry press cloth lays on the suit. you then lightly wet the press cloth . you then place the dry iron on the wet presscloth. 
the iron on the wet presscloth creates steam and then drys it with heat and pressure. the steam goes through the presscloth 
and then drys from the heat and pressure. 
to wet the presscloth i use a natural sponge and a small bowl of water. dip the sponge in the water and then wring it out so
it is still wet but not dripping, then wipe it gently across the presscloth. you want "thin" film of water.
it takes a bit of time to develop your pressing technique.


get some good presscloth as you have read above.


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