# Navy Blazer



## GamecockGrad (May 8, 2012)

I am in desperate need for a new Navy Blazer. My BB 326 blazer barely lasted me 2 years and is wearing thin on the sleeves and the lining has a hole separating by the inner pocket. 

I am debating the classic blazer with center vent or getting what I want - side vent, pick stitching, etc. 

My options are: 
- HSM MTM Custom on sale at Belk for $315
- Hardwick Customized with side vents and pick stitch for $249 plus shipping
- Order a Danielle / Baroni Blazer from Jeff for $289
- so essentially all in the same price range of +/- $300. 

If you were me, 28 year old who wears a suit/blazer 5 days a week - which do you go with? 

Or is there an option I'm missing (Anderson - Little) or other that I should strongly consider?


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## Topsider (Jul 9, 2005)

I wouldn't get any of those.

You might ask that question on the Fashion Forum.


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## GamecockGrad (May 8, 2012)

Topsider said:


> I wouldn't get any of those.
> 
> You might ask that question on the Fashion Forum.


What would you get / recommend?


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

My first navy blazer that I really liked was the O'Connell's house brand. It was about $350.


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## 32rollandrock (May 1, 2008)

This is one where you should get what you want and spend the money to make it happen. Age is irrelevant. That it is a staple worn several times a week is what counts.



GamecockGrad said:


> I am in desperate need for a new Navy Blazer. My BB 326 blazer barely lasted me 2 years and is wearing thin on the sleeves and the lining has a hole separating by the inner pocket.
> 
> I am debating the classic blazer with center vent *or getting what I want - side vent, pick stitching, etc.*
> 
> ...


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## firedancer (Jan 11, 2011)

2 years seems like a short time but how often did you wear it? If you do indeed plan on wearing it a couple times a week as 32 has suggested that might be about right. 

As much as I think most of BB offerings are complete junk, this is one area where I think you may find a good value for your need. A blazer is a staple and Brooks has plenty of options to choose from regarding cut and types of materials. 

All materials can have a downside. Hopsack can develop a sheen, doeskin and flannel can be seasonally inappropriate and hold fuzz and pet hair, fine worsteds tend to wear out more quickly etc.....

For a work horse blazer, I tend to choose a light doeskin and a hopsack. I have one of each of these from BB. The doe skin is a brooks ease Loro piana, and the hopsack is a golden fleece. The price point was very spread but the quality on both are just fine. 

Spend a little more up front and send it to the (right) cleaners sparingly, and I think your next blazer could last a little longer. Good luck.


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## Topsider (Jul 9, 2005)

Mine is from J. Press. I paid around $300 for it a few years ago.

If I were seriously economizing, I'd buy one on eBay. There are tons of BB blazers there. I've seen their Loro Piana sacks go for <$100.

At retail, I think BB is less of a good value than the O'Connell's blazer that Trip mentioned. When the time comes to replace my Press jacket, I'll probably go with that one. I've been eyeing their doeskin blazer for a while, also.

The devil is in the details, and none of the blazers you mentioned would appeal to those who prefer TNSIL. That's why I suggested you try the Fashion Forum.


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## Brooksfan (Jan 25, 2005)

I'm not familiar with the BB 326 blazer.


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## zzdocxx (Sep 26, 2011)

TNSIL?


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## M Go Crimson (Aug 20, 2011)

Traditional natural shoulder Ivy League


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## Preacher (Jul 5, 2008)

I have the one from Jeff at Wizard of ahhs and I love it!


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## LouB (Nov 8, 2010)

I had very good luck with the eBay route - found an non-outlet 346 sack for around $40 and wear it regularly. Having said that, I agree with 32rollandrock, spend the money and get the one you want. If you haven't already done so, you might want to check with Grainger-Owings in Columbia. You will spend more than $300 there, though.


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## Topsider (Jul 9, 2005)

zzdocxx said:


> TNSIL?





M Go Crimson said:


> Traditional natural shoulder Ivy League


Nobody here seems to know what that is anymore.


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## bd79cc (Dec 20, 2006)

Topsider said:


> Nobody here seems to know what that is anymore.


Lots of folks here nowadays have never set foot in Press, O'Connell's, Eddie Jacobs, Cable Car, or anyplace like them. They confuse Sid Mashburn's good taste in clothes with Trad. No surprise here about them not knowing what TNSIL means - they've probably never seen a 3/2. They might achieve a better understanding of what Trad is (and isn't) if they read The Archives from both this Forum and the Fashion Forum. Those of us who can help (myself included) should probably empathize and gamely answer questions, post pictures, and make constructive, useful remarks. There are lots of good people on both Forums who could do this.

As to the question asked by the OP: Trip and Topsider have the best advice. You can't go wrong with the house blazer from O'Connell's or the tropical-weight wool blazer from Press. O'Connell's blazer looks great, and makes up what little it lacks in refinement with lots of durability. The basic Press tropical-weight blazer - although it costs a little more and is a little better finished - offers a similar bang for the buck.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

bd79cc's comments are absolutely accurate. As the guy who's probably made the most noise about Sid Mashburn, it's only after a multi-year struggle with current offerings from the above shops that I decided to soften my stance on certain features (darts & vents being the biggest) so that I could choose from a wider selection of brands who were offering clothing that's made with more care and better materials. 

With the exception of Norman Hilton (which some have indicated may be so "hip" in their proportions that they may as well be dual exhaust and darted) there are few glimmers of hope for someone who's looking for a better garment. 

There are so few sacks made in general that many of the shops that offer them share sourcing so the variety is more to do with fabric choices than construction. For a slimmer guy to look good in a sack the shoulders need to be truly soft and give way to a body that drapes very naturally. Otherwise you look like you were just drafted to the Denver Nuggets. 

Unfortunately the only sacks that do this (that I've found) are vintage. Even my beloved O'Connell's blazer was always a little bit of a let down. 

When I moved to Ralph Lauren's Polo II it was because they had the most natural shoulder, fullest cut, most traditional length, and best construction of any jacket I could find for less than $1,500 and can usually be had for a third to a half that price. And unlike other "made in Italy" jackets, Ralph sticks rigorously to the American & British color palate that O'Connell's, J.Press, Cable Car and the like do.


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## zzdocxx (Sep 26, 2011)

And what is the most traditional length?

Are you suggesting that the jackets of nowadays are too short, too long, too medium? ? ?


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

Basically that they cover the butt. 

There's definately a trend toward cutting the jackets a little shorter these days. I guess a residual Thom Browne thing.


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## fishertw (Jan 27, 2006)

Topsider said:


> Nobody here seems to know what that is anymore.


TNSIL.. Most are not as old as we are either;-)


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## rl1856 (Jun 7, 2005)

I'll go the traditional route. I wear my BB Loro Piana Brooksease navy sack quite often. Not every day, but generally 2x per week. I have owned the blazer for at least 5yrs. The outside still looks great. The fabric has not developed a sheen, piles or surface irregularities. The lining is starting to wear thin in areas, but who sees that except for the wearer ? I have it cleaned once per year. I like the fit, how it looks and the durability. To me it is a great value, and brings the wearer to the point of diminishing returns in price, quality and appearance. 

When this one wears out, I will not hesitate to get another.

BB just concluded their F&F sale. Their general sale will begin in a few weeks, meaning you should be able to get a new OTR blazer for 20-25% less then their standard price of $598. I believe you can stack discounts so maybe with some creativity and diligence you can do event better.

Ebay is another good source if you wear common sizes. Just be careful.

Another poster mentioned Grainger Owings in Columiba. If you are familiar with them, then you know they are locally owned, which may be important. They can do MTM for an attractive price and you would be able to get exactly what you want.

Good Luck, and let us now what you ultimately choose.


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## JordanW (Jan 8, 2007)

zzdocxx said:


> TNSIL?


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## unmodern (Aug 10, 2009)

I can recommend Hardwick. I have their basic navy blazer (Craig) for occasional wear, and it is very sharp and TTS.


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## Barrow Jacket (Mar 14, 2012)

I just purchased the HSM navy blazer today. The only reason I did not purchase the BB traditional was because I had a bunch of Macy's gift cards, and the HSM blazer was $50 after that. I couldn't pay $598 vs. almost free...I have several HSM suits and like them very much; I think it will do well for me. May supplement with a doeskin at some point. 

However, all else being equal you could do a lot worse than obtaining the BB 2 or 3 button on sale for 20-25% off. It's what I would have done w/o the gift cards. The O'Connell house blazer for $395 sounds compelling, but I've never worn their stuff....I like trying on in store until I've worn a line.


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## Topsider (Jul 9, 2005)

Barrow Jacket said:


> I just purchased the HSM navy blazer today. The only reason I did not purchase the BB traditional was because I had a bunch of Macy's gift cards


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## Barrow Jacket (Mar 14, 2012)

Nice. care to elaborate?


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## Topsider (Jul 9, 2005)

A wardrobe stable seems an odd thing to compromise on in the name of gift cards. Surely, you could've found another use for the gift cards and still bought a blazer that didn't look like it came from the mall? Which, of course, it did.

Most things purchased based on price alone end up being regrettable. Been there. Done that.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

^This. 

Why bother engaging in the habits of a clothing enthusiast when you're just going to grab a mall jacket like every other potato.


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## Essential (Mar 20, 2012)

I'm also in need of some assistance. I'm basically a 35S in suit size (talk about unusual; probably gonna bulk up a bit and get 36S eventually). It's nearly impossible to find anything like this in stores, and on eBay. Are there any ~$300 or so MTM navy blazer makers or can anyone suggest a place that might have my size?


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## Topsider (Jul 9, 2005)

Essential said:


> I'm also in need of some assistance. I'm basically a 35S in suit size (talk about unusual; probably gonna bulk up a bit and get 36S eventually). It's nearly impossible to find anything like this in stores, and on eBay. Are there any ~$300 or so MTM navy blazer makers or can anyone suggest a place that might have my size?


JAB sells their Executive blazer in 35S. It's a 2B, but you could do a lot worse for $189.

https://www.josbank.com/menswear/shop/Product_11001_10050_101471


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## Essential (Mar 20, 2012)

^wow, thanks a bunch!


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## Barrow Jacket (Mar 14, 2012)

Really wasn't anything else there I wanted to get. My previous blazer has a hole, and I needed one for work immediately. I've also just spent quite a bit of money recently on several items (incl. Samuelsohn suit) and planning at least one pair of AE shoes soon. I don't have unlimited funds to begin with. As mentioned, I've enjoyed HSM in the past and at this time it fit what I needed. 

I'm just beginning to explore aspects of better clothes. I admit I don't really understand some of the reasons why "the regulars" on here like some brands and not others. Perhaps I'll abstain from posting on this board for now, if ultimate Trad mastery is expected from Day 1. Was just trying to converse with OP on my experiences to give him perspective. Good day.


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## Topsider (Jul 9, 2005)

Barrow Jacket said:


> Perhaps I'll abstain from posting on this board for now, if ultimate Trad mastery is expected from Day 1.


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## P Hudson (Jul 19, 2008)

Barrow Jacket said:


> Really wasn't anything else there I wanted to get. My previous blazer has a hole, and I needed one for work immediately. I've also just spent quite a bit of money recently on several items (incl. Samuelsohn suit) and planning at least one pair of AE shoes soon. I don't have unlimited funds to begin with. As mentioned, I've enjoyed HSM in the past and at this time it fit what I needed.
> 
> I'm just beginning to explore aspects of better clothes. I admit I don't really understand some of the reasons why "the regulars" on here like some brands and not others. Perhaps I'll abstain from posting on this board for now, if ultimate Trad mastery is expected from Day 1. Was just trying to converse with OP on my experiences to give him perspective. Good day.


Don't let it get you down. For some of us this place is a conversation with friends. For others, it seems to be something else. If you got a jacket that you like, and you think was a good deal, I'm sure those things will matter more in the long run than the opinion of some people you've never met. Since this is a Trad forum, most of us will have tastes that run in that direction, and will even defend such things when necessary. But if I had to choose between a decent jacket for $50, and a really nice one for $350, I'd take the one for $50. That gives you plenty of cash to make even more mistakes (I've made plenty: the cheaper ones are more easily forgotten), and enjoy yourself along the way.


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## Topsider (Jul 9, 2005)

^ You don't have to apologize for me. I'm on the trad forum to discuss the sort of clothing that it's intended to discuss. There's another forum for the other stuff. 

I'm sure some people come here to learn what TNSIL is all about, and some just come looking for syncophantic approval for whatever clothing decision they've already made. I feel no obligation to the latter.

If you note, right after I shrugged at the mall blazer, I suggested an inexpensive 2B for a guy with extremely limited options aside from MTM or custom. I own plenty of 2B stuff myself. It's not all TNSIL all the time. Still, if that's your thing, the navy blazer isn't the place to compromise unless you have no choice.


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## tocqueville (Nov 15, 2009)

"Most things purchased based on price alone end up being regrettable. Been there. Done that."

I'm all too familiar with this problem. It's a difficult reflex to unlearn.


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## Barrow Jacket (Mar 14, 2012)

P Hudson said:


> Don't let it get you down. For some of us this place is a conversation with friends. For others, it seems to be something else. If you got a jacket that you like, and you think was a good deal, I'm sure those things will matter more in the long run than the opinion of some people you've never met. Since this is a Trad forum, most of us will have tastes that run in that direction, and will even defend such things when necessary. But if I had to choose between a decent jacket for $50, and a really nice one for $350, I'd take the one for $50. That gives you plenty of cash to make even more mistakes (I've made plenty: the cheaper ones are more easily forgotten), and enjoy yourself along the way.


Thank you, P Hudson. I enjoy looking at your posts and others clothes on WAYWT. Helps give me ideas about different looks and items. My style is conservative, traditional, sometimes preppy, just not always "Trad" or TNSIL.


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## tocqueville (Nov 15, 2009)

Barrow Jacket said:


> Really wasn't anything else there I wanted to get. My previous blazer has a hole, and I needed one for work immediately. I've also just spent quite a bit of money recently on several items (incl. Samuelsohn suit) and planning at least one pair of AE shoes soon. I don't have unlimited funds to begin with. As mentioned, I've enjoyed HSM in the past and at this time it fit what I needed.
> 
> I'm just beginning to explore aspects of better clothes. I admit I don't really understand some of the reasons why "the regulars" on here like some brands and not others. Perhaps I'll abstain from posting on this board for now, if ultimate Trad mastery is expected from Day 1. Was just trying to converse with OP on my experiences to give him perspective. Good day.


I'm here to learn. And despite all my stupid questions, no one's thrown me off the boards yet. Hang around.

You'll also learn that folks on the Trad forum are particular in their tastes and place great value in a style that's slowly dying out, for better or for worse. I'm not sold on the style, but I like reading this forum because most of the posters know their stuff, and they have reasons for why they like what they like. And my tastes are evolving...one thing I've really learned to appreciate is that clothing that passes muster among the Trad crowd is usually well made, American made, and durable. These are values I appreciate. So if they recommend a certain brand (O'Connell's for example), I know at least that what they're recommending is something very well made and represents value. I just haven't decided whether a sack suit would do me (or anyone, really) and favors.

Oh, and now I know what a sack is. I did not know before I started reading here.


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## Charles Saturn (May 27, 2010)

BB's 1818 sack has an excellent shoulder. The cut is trim as well.


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## Cowtown (Aug 10, 2006)

Topsider said:


> ^ You don't have to apologize for me. I'm on the trad forum to discuss the sort of clothing that it's intended to discuss. There's another forum for the other stuff.
> 
> I'm sure some people come here to learn what TNSIL is all about, and some just come looking for syncophantic approval for whatever clothing decision they've already made. I feel no obligation to the latter.
> 
> If you note, right after I shrugged at the mall blazer, I suggested an inexpensive 2B for a guy with extremely limited options aside from MTM or custom. I own plenty of 2B stuff myself. It's not all TNSIL all the time. Still, if that's your thing, the navy blazer isn't the place to compromise unless you have no choice.


Well said.


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## inq89 (Dec 3, 2008)

+1 on the eBay route. I'd get a J.Press but also look into Anderson-Little as well (there's a huge thread somewhere on this forum). FYI I purchased my J.Press on eBay for around $70 and had to fix a minor hole and tailor it, came out in the end to be around $140. There are some listed right now for under $150. Well worth it even if its in used condition imo.


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## dcjacobson (Jun 25, 2007)

If by HSM you mean Hart Schaffner Marx, there is nothing wrong with that. I have one I bought a few years ago from Marshall Fields, and I can assure you it is not a piece of mall junk. Wool, made in USA, and very little padding in the shoulders. I wear it all the time, and I get as many compliments about it as I do with my Brooks sack. And I don't think I look like a potato when I wear it. For gosh sakes, the President of the U.S. has worn Hart Schaffner Marx clothing!

Good luck,
Don

P.S. Make sure your blazer fits perfectly: sleeves the correct length, back of collar that lays flat against your shirt collar, no "bubble" or wrinkles between the shoulder blades. You will look great.


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## Bradford (Dec 10, 2004)

firedancer said:


> For a work horse blazer, I tend to choose a light doeskin and a hopsack. I have one of each of these from BB. The doe skin is a brooks ease Loro piana, and the hopsack is a golden fleece. The price point was very spread but the quality on both are just fine.


I was not familiar with the term doeskin, but I have a BrooksEase Loro Piana as well and that is apparently what I have. This is my go-to blazer and in fact, I'm wearing it today :biggrin2:.

I also have the well-regarded 3/2 sack Brooks University blazer. This is in a much heavier flannel that looks great when paired with gray flannels.


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## Larsd4 (Oct 14, 2005)

When it comes to getting deals on quality new clothing, few on this board are as avid as I am. It's almost a problem. That said, eighteen years ago I celebrated the birth of my first-born by going to the nearest Brooks Brothers and buying a navy blazer. I didn't know anything about blazers, but it just so happened they sold me a sack blazer for full price at $350. I didn't wince too much, even though paying retail is anathema to me.

Eighteen years later I'm still wearing that coat, having worn it hundreds and hundreds of times. It really didn't matter what I paid ($75 or $750) since the price per wearing is so low. Focus on fit, then quality, then and only then, price. If the price is too high, save up some more.


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