# Custom Suiting Options at Brooks Brothers



## emb1980 (Dec 28, 2012)

So I'm creating this thread because, remarkably, this information does not seem to be available on the Brooks Brothers website (or at least not in an easily accessible location). As a guy with a drop that precludes the OTR options, these are the custom sizing choices available in Brooks Brothers stores, which is NOT all available online. In particular, I had found little and/or incorrect info about the essentials and selects lines. 

Please see the response later in the thread with a detailed explanation of the options!


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## forbritisheyesonly (Feb 21, 2012)

Quick question: is there a particular reason you're going with BB for MTM?


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## Robert Patrick (Apr 14, 2004)

5 years ago or so, the GF MTM was Greenfield and the lower MTM line (not sure what it was called then) was Southwick. 

Anybody happen to know if they still use these vendors with all the changes recently?


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## emb1980 (Dec 28, 2012)

I'm just considering all of my options without going "MTM" (which seems like it can mean many things). The first two options I listed aren't really MTM, but more like a semi-custom OTR. I fit the regent OTR stuff very well, aside from the fact that my drop is incompatible with OTR suiting. The first two options let you do a "separates" approach and enjoy some custom options, but without some of the downsides of normal separates or the risks of online MTM.

There are some real pitfalls to less-expensive MTM, and I think options one and two are worthy of consideration.


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## Brooksfan (Jan 25, 2005)

With all due respect to the collective wisdom of the AAAT readers, the OP should contact the Brooks store in Baltimore and ask to meet with Tom Jackson. I believe he is still based in the Baltimore location and has more first-hand knowledge of today's MTM and Special Order capabilities than anyone. Additionally he has decades of experience and will not mislead you. 

Since you're in Rockville, Baltimore isn't that hard to get to and you will consider it time well spent.


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## emb1980 (Dec 28, 2012)

Brooksfan said:


> With all due respect to the collective wisdom of the AAAT readers, the OP should contact the Brooks store in Baltimore and ask to meet with Tom Jackson. I believe he is still based in the Baltimore location and has more first-hand knowledge of today's MTM and Special Order capabilities than anyone. Additionally he has decades of experience and will not mislead you.
> 
> Since you're in Rockville, Baltimore isn't that hard to get to and you will consider it time well spent.


Thanks for the referral. I'll be honest, the reason I posted this is I found it frustrating that one has to call not only a Brooks store, but the "right" store just to find out things that should be easily accessible on the website. For instance, when I asked about the essentials program at the Brooks I usually frequent, my usual salesperson poo-poo'ed it and didn't offer me any information or give me the chance to make up my own mind. When I searched the internet, I found erroneous and conflicting info about the program, and the Brooks site offered little more. My "guy" also never really talked about what the selects program offered, despite being well-aware of my issues with drop. I'm pretty sure he's been trying to steer me into mainline MTM, even though that's considerably more than I'd really like to spend.

The only reason I found out about these options was I happened to stop into another Brooks while traveling yesterday, and that salesman was happy to talk about each of the different offerings. I was disappointed, because I'd just missed the double discount day, and probably would have bought a suit if I'd been able to find these options earlier.

So I wish I'd been able to find a thread that told me what to look for before I got to a store or called a sales guy on the phone. That's why I created this thread.


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## IronChef204 (Feb 5, 2013)

I've been a long time lurker here at the forum, but I never posted anything. As a Brooks Brothers made-to-measure associate, let me shed some light on the Brooks Brothers' custom clothing programs.

There are five different methods of getting a Brooks Brothers labeled suit that is made for a specific person. All the suits will be at least half canvassed. Yes, even the half Suiting Essentials program.

There is the Suiting Essentials Line; it has a ready-to-wear option in which the client selects from a five fabrics. Grey, Navy, Black, Grey Stripe, Navy Stripe. The client then selects his size in a Regent cut jacket and trouser, and Brooks Brothers sends out the items from the warehouse. The customer should be able to walk out of the store with the suit in ten business days unless there are more alterations besides the cuffs and trouser bottoms. Priced at $648 for one or two for $999.

There is also the Suiting Essentials Made-to-Order line. This allows for the customer to choose from whatever fit and sizes Brooks Brothers currently offers, and it also greatly increases the fabric choices from 5 to about thirty. It also allows the customer to choose a lining from about ten choices. In addition to fit and fabric choice increases, the client can also add different styling features such as pick stitching, lapel styling, and vent styles, but it does have some limitations. For example, the Fitzgerald fit jacket cannot have side vents, but one can order jacket and trousers from different fits, eg Fitzgerald Jacket and Milano Trousers. From order to the first fitting, it usually takes place 30 days. All of the suiting essentials programs will be made in Thailand. Priced at $648.

The Select Program offers most of the options of the Suiting Essentials Made-to-Order program, but these items will be made in the United States at the Southwick factory. You can get trousers, vests, sports jackets, suits, and tuxedos in this program. The benefit of going this program is that it allows for a much wider selection of fabrics and can be done at all the stores at the same quality of any of the other 1818 suits that are made in the United States. Brooks Brothers offers fabrics from Vitale Barberis and Loro Piana in the program. You do not however get to choose your lining in these suits. Pricing will range from $1,200 to $1,800 for suits. Sport coats, vests and trousers are roughly two thirds, one third, and one quarter of the suit price respectively. 

After this, there are two Made-to-Measure programs. The 1818 and Golden Fleece programs are very much like their off-the-rack counterparts in terms of construction. However, these programs are much more extensive in their choices and are reserved to a few stores. Both program for the most part offers many of the styling features one would ask for, eg lining, pocket, pant, vent, and lapel styles and will greatly expand your fabric choices. There are many fit features that can be applied to the person by the skilled tailor or salesperson. The difference between the two programs is solely based upon the construction of the items. The 1818 items will be the same quality as those off-the-rack counterparts. The Golden Fleece items will be constructed by Martin Greenfield in his New York factory with an extra charge of $300, and this features full canvas construction, considerably more handwork, and hand sewn buttonholes. Any 1818 Made-to-Measure suit will begin at $1,500, and its Golden Fleece Counterpart will start at $1,800. Most fabrics are Italian including Zegna, Loro Piana, and VBC, but there are some English fabrics as well.

If you do decide to go down the Made-to-Measure program, I would highly recommend knowing what you are asking for before you go into the program. If you want something extremely modern, then say so. If you like something more traditional, do let the person who is measuring know, so they can make the appropriate measurements.


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## forbritisheyesonly (Feb 21, 2012)

emb1980 said:


> I'm just considering all of my options without going "MTM" (which seems like it can mean many things). The first two options I listed aren't really MTM, but more like a semi-custom OTR. I fit the regent OTR stuff very well, aside from the fact that my drop is incompatible with OTR suiting. The first two options let you do a "separates" approach and enjoy some custom options, but without some of the downsides of normal separates or the risks of online MTM.
> 
> There are some real pitfalls to less-expensive MTM, and I think options one and two are worthy of consideration.


Indeed, I was about to say that Options 1& 2 were MTO. MTO - as I understand it - is the poor man's MTO. The fit capabilities are hardly better than OTR, thus defeating the purpose of selecting a more customizable route. I've been told my a very reputable tailor on SF that MTM suits are altered in many more locations; specifically, in 5 locations as opposed to two when suppressing the coat's waist.

For the price, I would personally go the Samuelsohn MTM route.


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## emb1980 (Dec 28, 2012)

IronChef204 said:


> I've been a long time lurker here at the forum, but I never posted anything. As a Brooks Brothers made-to-measure associate, let me shed some light on the Brooks Brothers' custom clothing programs.
> 
> There are five different methods of getting a Brooks Brothers labeled suit that is made for a specific person. All the suits will be at least half canvassed. Yes, even the half Suiting Essentials program.
> 
> ...


Thank you so much! THIS is what should be available on the BB website!

In response to the previous post: I'm honestly not hung up on MTM as I can get a decent fit in a regent jacket (with a bit of extra waist suppression from my tailor) and regent trousers individually, and honestly I'm not made of money and will probably only wear this suit a few times a year at social occasions where I do not wish to stand out. (I wear a uniform as my professional attire). My only issue is one of drop, which is solved by these MTO options.


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## FilipI (Jan 31, 2014)

I thought I'd revive this thread as to ask if anyone has used the option of design your own Brooks Brothers?
https://www.brooksbrothers.com/designyourown/designyourown,default,pg.html


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