# Alden for Brooks Brothers Calf Tassel Loafers



## chacend (Mar 4, 2008)

Gents,

The Alden for Brooks Brothers Shell Tassel Loafers are justifiably highly regarded around here. But there are very few threads about the calf version. I'm looking at both the Burgundy and Tan versions and was wondering about opinions from those that have them. How is Alden Burgundy calf in general as a color?


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## closerlook (Sep 3, 2008)

someone noticed the sale.

go for the burgundy.


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

I have Alden tassels in both burgundy shell and black calf - The calf version is very nice (my wife prefers it over the shell) and I certainly wouldn't hesitate to get the calf version for $200. Burgundy is probably the right choice as it's more versatile.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

I much prefer calfskin to shell, and Alden's burgundy color is very handsome. If, as mentioned, they're available for $200, that's an outstanding value for a very fine and handsome shoe. (PS, I also like tan, depends upon what you're looking for.)


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## chacend (Mar 4, 2008)

Cardinals5 said:


> I have Alden tassels in both burgundy shell and black calf - The calf version is very nice (my wife prefers it over the shell) and I certainly wouldn't hesitate to get the calf version for $200. Burgundy is probably the right choice as it's more versatile.


It's not a question of either or, it's one or both. The tan is a go, I'm just trying to get opinions of Alden burgundy calf.


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## bd79cc (Dec 20, 2006)

The burgundy calf tassels have a very even cherry, almost oxblood, color - very different than the dark brownish purple of the shell cordovan numbers in Color #8. If you polish the burgundy calf tassels with Kiwi Cordovan, eventually they'll show a really nice "antique" effect where the edges of the leather and the areas of stitching will become darker than the rest of the leather.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Keep in mind the calfskin ones are not on the Aberdeen last but rather the Copley; fit is apparently the same, although the Copley has more room in the toe box.


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## chacend (Mar 4, 2008)

Doctor Damage said:


> Keep in mind the calfskin ones are not on the Aberdeen last but rather the Copley; fit is apparently the same, although the Copley has more room in the toe box.


Is this a confirmed fact? I hadn't heard this anywhere before. If so its a done deal as I much prefer the Copley to the Aberdeen.


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## hsc89 (Oct 14, 2009)

Doctor Damage said:


> Keep in mind the calfskin ones are not on the Aberdeen last but rather the Copley; fit is apparently the same, although the Copley has more room in the toe box.


I hope that, given my low post count, this is not seen as being too forward but, I'm pretty sure both calf and shell versions are made on the Aberdeen last. I have shell and calf tassels from both sources and they are identical (other than the "foxing" on heel of BB version). I believe, DocD, you might be confusing the tassels with the "hand sewn" penny from BB. Of course, as is widely recognized, the unlined cordovan are made on the Van but the calf model bearing same name is on the Copley.

As far as the color, I agree with the above posts. It is a very nice "oxblood" color and not nearly as dark as brand new color 8 shells tend to be. Good looking shoe and a really good buy (almost too good to pass up) at the current sale price.


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## cumberlandpeal (May 12, 2006)

Burgandy is a good choice. Polish with black Kiwi two out of three times, oxblood the other, and you will get a great and quick patina.


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## chacend (Mar 4, 2008)

hsc89 said:


> I hope that, given my low post count, this is not seen as being too forward but, I'm pretty sure both calf and shell versions are made on the Aberdeen last. I have shell and calf tassels from both sources and they are identical (other than the "foxing" on heel of BB version). I believe, DocD, you might be confusing the tassels with the "hand sewn" penny from BB. Of course, as is widely recognized, the unlined cordovan are made on the Van but the calf model bearing same name is on the Copley.
> 
> As far as the color, I agree with the above posts. It is a very nice "oxblood" color and not nearly as dark as brand new color 8 shells tend to be. Good looking shoe and a really good buy (almost too good to pass up) at the current sale price.


I won't disregard you just because of a low post count. However, you are in error in regards to the unlined cordovan penny it has been widely reported and confirmed by Alden that the Brooks Cordovan Penny is on the Copley last not the Van.


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## joenobody0 (Jun 30, 2009)

chacend said:


> I won't disregard you just because of a low post count. However, you are in error in regards to the unlined cordovan penny it has been widely reported and confirmed by Alden that the Brooks Cordovan Penny is on the Copley last not the Van.


That's my experience as well.


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## hsc89 (Oct 14, 2009)

I would definitely _not_ be the first person to admit when I'm wrong , but if I am in this case I would be surprised only because I regularly wear - and have for some time - both the LHS and BB unlined and the lasts appear to be identical based on the shape and overall fit. I also believe there was a thread some time back where this was discussed (while I haven't posted much I have been avidly following this forum for more than a year now) and I believe someone - McArthur, perhaps - confirmed that the shells were on the Van. But again, I am primarily using my own experience with wearing the shoes as a guide and the unlined vs. lined aspect may be throwing me off (and I do wear a 1/2 size smaller and one width greater in the BB - 12C - than the LHS - 12 1/2B).

Actually I think one would have more difficulty discerning the difference between the Copley and Aberdeen lasts with the tassel moc. Alden uses the Copley on the flex-welt version (tassel and penny - which look very much like the calf Alden for BB penny) and, visually, they are very similar shoes. But once you slip them on you can immediately tell the difference. The Copley has a slightly wider forefoot and its toe box doesn't taper quite as severely as the Aberdeen's. Again, however, this is mainly based on my wearing the shoes (or at least trying them on in the case of the Copley last).


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## joenobody0 (Jun 30, 2009)

Actually an email to Alden with the model number of a BB cordo penny would clear this up far better than a bunch of opinions. I sent an email asking this exact question and never heard back (first time in a somewhat large sample set). I'm not wearing a pair right now, so I'll write down the number tonight and send an email tomorrow. I'll post the response and then maybe we can finally settle this.

On edit: user chacend seems to suggest this has already been confirmed by Alden. Does anyone have a link to the original confirmation?


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## Topsider (Jul 9, 2005)

closerlook said:


> someone noticed the sale.
> 
> go for the burgundy.


Ditto that. I just did.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

*BB unlined penny loafers* are on the Van last, which we know from many past threads.

*BB calfskin penny loafers* are on the Copley last. But BB _used to make_ some calfskin penny loafers on the Van last (image below).

*BB shell cordovan tassel loafers* are on the Aberdeen last.

*BB calfskin tassel loafers* are (or at least _used to be_) on the Copley last (images below).

But it is worth noting that in the past BB also made calfskin tassel loafers on the Aberdeen last (images below).

Everyone confused? Good!

Here's the current BB models side-by-side:


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## hsc89 (Oct 14, 2009)

Thanks DocD your follow-up! You're right, the different-lasted versions of the same shoes that have appeared in the Alden for BB line over the last number of years have made it very confusing. At least the Copley and Aberdeen are fairly similar - most could probably comfortably wear the same size in both. It just so happened (I'm guessing by sheer luck) that both pairs of calf tassels (tan and burgundy) that I have are on the Aberdeen - and both were purchased within the last couple of years as it was time to finally replace, rather than resole, a few pairs in my rotation. Your pics are a great reference as I believe they clearly show the more rounded toe of the Copley-lasted tassel moc.

Again, I apologize for my earlier comments maybe appearing a little too confident with regard to my insisting that the BB shell penny was on the Van. My wife often complains about my tone being a bit confrontational - she thinks its a result of either a carry-over from the daily grind of my law practice or the fact that I listen to too much talk radio !


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## SNB (Nov 28, 2007)

*My own $0.02*



hsc89 said:


> I hope that, given my low post count, this is not seen as being too forward but, I'm pretty sure both calf and shell versions are made on the Aberdeen last. I have shell and calf tassels from both sources and they are identical (other than the "foxing" on heel of BB version). I believe, DocD, you might be confusing the tassels with the "hand sewn" penny from BB. Of course, as is widely recognized, the unlined cordovan are made on the Van but the calf model bearing same name is on the Copley.
> 
> As far as the color, I agree with the above posts. It is a very nice "oxblood" color and not nearly as dark as brand new color 8 shells tend to be. Good looking shoe and a really good buy (almost too good to pass up) at the current sale price.


I too have been reading the boards and have rarely posted. However, I feel compelled to share the deal I got. I picked up a pair of the Tan tassel loafers at BB for $130! $398 on sale for $199 less $40 of rewards from my BB credit card, plus a 25% off coupon. Unbeleivable. Whatismore, they didn't have them in the store in Short Hills Mall. They were all set to order them when another associate walked by and remembered they may have a pair downstairs. Bottom line, they happened to have two pairs and one was 11.5 D - my size! Needless to say, the almighty was smiling down on me that day.

Point two of my post. I would never argue lasts with anyone on this board. But I have burgundy tassels from Alden, burdundy shell tassels from BB, and now tan calf tassels from BB. In my "_experience_," the calf tassels fit identically. However, the shells are almost certainly on a different last. They slip up a bit when I'm walking, unless I wear a thicker sock. I love them regardless, but not as much as my unlined cordovan pennies from BB. I have to end this post now as I am starting get depressed from totaling up the cost of the shoes in my closet.


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## chacend (Mar 4, 2008)

SNB said:


> I too have been reading the boards and have rarely posted. However, I feel compelled to share the deal I got. I picked up a pair of the Tan tassel loafers at BB for $130! $398 on sale for $199 less $40 of rewards from my BB credit card, plus a 25% off coupon. Unbeleivable. Whatismore, they didn't have them in the store in Short Hills Mall. They were all set to order them when another associate walked by and remembered they may have a pair downstairs. Bottom line, they happened to have two pairs and one was 11.5 D - my size! Needless to say, the almighty was smiling down on me that day.
> 
> Point two of my post. I would never argue lasts with anyone on this board. But I have burgundy tassels from Alden, burdundy shell tassels from BB, and now tan calf tassels from BB. In my "_experience_," the calf tassels fit identically. However, the shells are almost certainly on a different last. They slip up a bit when I'm walking, unless I wear a thicker sock. I love them regardless, but not as much as my unlined cordovan pennies from BB. I have to end this post now as I am starting get depressed from totaling up the cost of the shoes in my closet.


SNB,
Shells in the same size, model and last almost always fit looser than their calf counterparts. I believe this is because they can't stretch shell cordovan as much as calf when building the shoe. It is quite possible that they are on the same last and just fir looser.


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## chacend (Mar 4, 2008)

Doctor Damage said:


> *BB unlined penny loafers* are on the Van last, which we know from many past threads.
> 
> *BB calfskin penny loafers* are on the Copley last. But BB _used to make_ some calfskin penny loafers on the Van last (image below).
> 
> ...


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## SNB (Nov 28, 2007)

Fair enough. As I said, I certainly am not knowlegable enough to argue lasts with anyone on the boards. However, they feel bigger to me throughout, both in the toebox and the heel. Not similar really at all, but I'll leave it at that. Just another man's opinion - even though that is the last thing this thread need. 
SNB
P.S.
Doc D rocks! Truely a wealth of shoe knowledge.


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## fishertw (Jan 27, 2006)

*Thanks for the heads up*

I just pulled the trigger on a pair of Burgundy calf tassels from BB. I currently have walnut calf tassels from Alden and black shell tassels from Alden and hope that the Brooks pair fit like the Aldens. I'm pretty sure both my current pair are Aberdeen lasts. Hope the new ones are as well.
Tom


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## nringo (Oct 5, 2007)

Yeah I just picked these up too. Great deal. I called the Conn Ave DC store first thinking they'd have them in stock since its a big store, but they said the sale was online only. So I decided to stop into my usual store on Wisconsin Ave and they had them, and they rang up at 199. Add to that a $25 coupon the Brooks card sent me and it was a pretty good deal.


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## PeterW (May 14, 2004)

Just got my Walnuts from the sale delivered to my office. I was already wearing my Alden tassels in 9.5 E on Aderdeen. I ordered the Copley BBs at 10 D. 

Both fit well, but already prefer the BB version. The lasts are different. Obviously, my two pairs are different sizes (although going up in size and down in width can be comparable) but it is clear that the Copley is snugger, especially in the heel and instep, but with a bit more in the toe box than the Aberdeen.

I'd say that if the Aberdeen doesn't work for you (say, too big in heel), by all means try the Copley in a .5 size up. 

And now, thanks to DD's great post, I am looking forward to calf LHS from Brooks on Copley.

Add me to list of guys who admit to actually liking calf better than cord, or at least reaching for them more often.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

I visited the Toronto BB store on Friday and looked at both the cordovan and calfskin BB tassel loafers (made by Alden). For what it's worth, the calfskin shoes on display were clearly on the Aberdeen last.


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## bd79cc (Dec 20, 2006)

Doctor Damage said:


> I visited the Toronto BB store on Friday and looked at both the cordovan and calfskin BB tassel loafers (made by Alden). For what it's worth, the calfskin shoes on display were clearly on the Aberdeen last.


I have a pair of each of these. Aberdeen last, both pairs.


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## hookem12387 (Dec 29, 2009)

I'm trying to decide between the pennies and the tassels... Everyone liked the Alden calf?


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## Valkyrie (Aug 27, 2009)

> I'm trying to decide between the pennies and the tassels...


Just one guy's opinion: Get the pennies now, get the tassels when you graduate from law school.


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## hookem12387 (Dec 29, 2009)

Valkyrie said:


> Just one guy's opinion: Get the pennies now, get the tassels when you graduate from law school.


That seems like good advice, thanks. Plus, I do have some old corrected-grain weejun tassels that I wear pretty regularly (right now, actually)


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## maximar (Jan 11, 2010)

Anyone knows if the BB pennies in calf are on sale ($199) in stores? I noticed the they took them out of their clearance online. 
The BB store I went to has a very limited selection and only one pair of shoes in shell. 
I saw the tassels. $199 is a great price. +25% is an absolute steal! Tassel lovers take heed!


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