# Alden Breakin: Will Cordovan Stretch?



## twistedswisster (Apr 5, 2009)

I'm about to pull the trigger on a pair of Alden cordovan chukkas in the Barrie last. I love the look (of cordovan in general). However, I'm a little confused based on what I've read concerning sizing and whether cord stretches.

The closest dealer to me (an hour away) only had the chukka in kudu -- but fortunately still in Barrie last. Although my foot measures 10.75"x4", I usually wear a 9 or 9.5 medium. In the kudu chukka, the 9D fit best. That said, there was a little pressure on my right little toe. From previous experience I know I may be setting myself up for pain, depending on how these break in.

So my main question is: are the cord chukkas going to stretch? or am I going to end up donating these because my little toe is constantly blistering? If they will "break in," how much usage does that usually take?

thanks.


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## Larsd4 (Oct 14, 2005)

Shell cordovan is guaranteed not to stretch, if you need it to. Don't buy a shoe that feels bad at the start. You just won't wear it.


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## The Continental Fop (Jan 12, 2007)

I respectfully disagree. I own six pairs of shell and they've all stretched to optimally fit my feet. My original pair of Alden LHS loafers were sized .5 down from my usual size, and did not feel very comfortable for the first few months. But the salesman assured me that this was normal for this particular shoe and for shell in general, and he was right. Today they are my most comfortable shoes, and fit like bespoke. 

If you wear the shoes regularly and keep shoe trees in them overnight, shell slowly stretches and molds to your feet. If you don't wear them regularly, I can see why some would claim that it does not.


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## twistedswisster (Apr 5, 2009)

The 9E fit my right foot best, but felt a little too big on my left foot. Not huge, but a little roomy. I've had roomy boots before. The problem there is that the constant movement tends to pull your sock down, until they're balled up at your toes. 

So I have at least two options then:

* go with 9D and hope they stretch during break in, with the distinct possibility that they don't and I end up selling them because of toe pain.

* go with 9E and hope socks stay put.

Given what you've said, it looks like 9E is the better option.

Thanks!


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## twistedswisster (Apr 5, 2009)

Fop, that's good to hear. Have you tried anything to accelerate the breaking in process?


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## Reds & Tops (Feb 20, 2009)

I was planning on asking a similar question about the strap on LHS's...good news!


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## Anon 18th Cent. (Oct 27, 2008)

I have over 20 pairs of Alden shell cordovans, and they most definitely stretch. I wear 9.5 D typically, but to give you an example I wear 8.5 D in the Van lasted Brooks Brothers unlined LHS-- because I want it to fit snugly and not slip. I wear a 9D in the Aberdeen lasted BB tassel loafer for the same reason.

However, it seems you are more concerned with width than length. Strictly speaking, I don't have any experience with Alden shells getting wider. It seems very reasonable that there would be some stretch in the width, not as much as in the length, but some.

I don't like shoes that are too big, so I would definitely go for the D's. The Barrie last is very roomy to begin with; I go down a half-size in those.


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## Hullabaloo (Nov 11, 2008)

I purchased the Brooks Brothers unlined cordovan loafer and made the mistake of getting a smaller size than usual. They have not stretched, at least not enough to be comfortable. So be careful.

This being the case, I may look to cut my losses and sell them. Is the Sales Forum the best place to do this?


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## Reds & Tops (Feb 20, 2009)

Hullabaloo said:


> I purchased the Brooks Brothers unlined cordovan loafer and made the mistake of getting a smaller size than usual. They have not stretched, at least not enough to be comfortable. So be careful.
> 
> This being the case, I may look to cut my losses and sell them. Is the Sales Forum the best place to do this?


Definitely, what size are they?


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## Speas (Mar 11, 2004)

I wouldnt sell them right off - they definitely will stretch if you put a shoe stretcher in them. I'm an E width and have used a stretcher on cordovans to 'improve' the fit. I've also dampened the leather with distilled water to help. Not sure I'd intentionally buy shoes that are too tight though, particularly on the chukas, which I'd guess you can get a good fit around the ankle on a slightly large size and be comfortable.


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## Tom Rath (May 31, 2005)

Edwin Ek said:


> I have over 20 pairs of Alden shell cordovans, and they most definitely stretch. I wear 9.5 D typically, but to give you an example I wear 8.5 D in the Van lasted Brooks Brothers unlined LHS-- because I want it to fit snugly and not slip. I wear a 9D in the Aberdeen lasted BB tassel loafer for the same reason.
> 
> However, it seems you are more concerned with width than length. Strictly speaking, I don't have any experience with Alden shells getting wider. It seems very reasonable that there would be some stretch in the width, not as much as in the length, but some.
> 
> I don't like shoes that are too big, so I would definitely go for the D's. The Barrie last is very roomy to begin with; I go down a half-size in those.


This post makes no sense. A welted shoe cannot stretch in the length. Both the toe area and the heel area are rock solid. There is no where for the leather to go. You could argue that perhaps the inside lining gets pressed into the respective ends of the shoe, but that couldnt account for more that a fraction of an inch. Shoes can stretch in the width because the sides of the shoe are more pliable and flexible.


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## Ron_A (Jun 5, 2007)

In my experience, shell cordovan stretches a little bit in the width, over time and with repeated wearings. Also, the Barrie last is pretty roomy -- I normally take a wide width, and can get by with a D in my normal shoe size in the Barrie. 

That being said, I would not buy shoes that are too tight or feel uncomfortable. There is no guarantee that they will stretch to the point where they're comfortable. Also, I think that it's easier to make a slighly roomy shoe fit well (by wearing thicker socks, using insoles, etc.) than vice versa.


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## Reds & Tops (Feb 20, 2009)

^^ very good advice


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## Hullabaloo (Nov 11, 2008)

My Aldens are size 11 D. I've been putting shoe trees in them but they still are not very comfortable. And to make matters worse I'm a runner and have started using inserts, which makes them very snug. Hopefully they can be sold for a reasonable price! I'm hooked on Aldens.


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## twistedswisster (Apr 5, 2009)

update: I've been dealing with Adam at alden-of-carmel.com for a couple of weeks, so I asked him this question today. His answer was an "it depends" kind of answer. He said the cordovan CAN stretch as it breaks in. However, where it will/can stretch depends on both the shoe and your foot. So, for example, if the shoe is a little snug around the ball of the foot, then chances are pretty good the width will stretch to conform to your foot. The ball of the foot exerts quite a bit of force on the cordovan. 

The problem in my case is that the pressure point is a little higher on my pinky toe. That front part of the shoe is very sturdy, while my pinky toe is... well, a pinky toe, and unlikely to exert enough force to stretch the cordovan. Adam thought pinky would lose that battle, so he recommended going with the 9E in this case.


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## gracian (Jan 7, 2006)

Sounds like a sensible answer from Adam. Thanks for sharing.


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## qwerty (Jun 24, 2005)

Don't know if this makes sense, but I've found (at least with loafers), that calf stretches while shell _molds_ to one's food. The molding process takes 6+ months of regular wear, but it's not like the things are made of cast iron. What's more, I feel that calf stretches and contracts quite a bit...with moisture, temperature, strain. Shell seems to mold to a foot and just stay that way.


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## The Continental Fop (Jan 12, 2007)

Guys, last word on the subject from me, I promise. But I would be remiss in not reiterating this to the new members and/or lurkers who may be considering dropping $500+ on their first pair of shells, particularly the Alden LHS loafer:

Shell cordovan shoes will definitely stretch over time, especially if you wear them regularly and keep shoe trees in them when they're not on your feet. This is a good thing, because eventually the shoes will mold to your feet and make you wish all your shoes were made of horsehide.

Do not be alarmed. Shell doesn't keep stretching forever. It stops when the shoes fit your feet. The only shells I've seen that stretched too much were abused by their owner with over-large shoe trees that had to be crammed in. 

When buying a new pair of shells -- particularly Alden's LHS loafer -- I strongly advise you to try a size 1/2 to a full size smaller than your usual shoe size. You don't want a new pair of shells to be uncomfortably tight. Just snug. A bit more snug than you would normally put up with in a new pair of calf dress shoes. Most guys find a half size down is what works best in the end. That's certainly been my experience. The only new pair of shells I didn't buy sized down a half size are my Alden cigar chukkas, which I had to special order and the guy swore they'd be true to size. Nope. I still love them, but I have to wear thick socks with them.

Fact: You will buy your first pair of shells. 

Fact: They will probably be Alden's LHS. 

Fact: You will buy them a half-size down. 

Fact: They will feel a little snug for a month or two. 

Fact: Then one morning you'll put them on and say, "What the?", because they will suddenly be your most comfortable leather shoes, and you will understand what all the fuss is about.


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## srivats (Jul 29, 2008)

The Continental Fop said:


> Fact: Then one morning you'll put them on and say, "What the?", because they will suddenly be your most comfortable leather shoes, and you will understand what all the fuss is about.


+1000000000

I had the same epiphany with my first pair of alden shell alden PTBs. And with my chukkas. And with my cigar NSTs. It typically takes 5-6 wearings for me to break in my aldens. Once they are set, you will NOT want to wear any other shoe (other than a different pair aldens). The insole, along with the cork footbed molds to your feet - and this will take a few wearning. Get your intial sizing right (not too tight, not too wide) and you will have a pair of shoes that your feel will be *very* happy about.


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## M. Charles (Mar 31, 2007)

srivats said:


> +1000000000
> 
> I had the same epiphany with my first pair of alden shell alden PTBs. And with my chukkas. And with my cigar NSTs. It typically takes 5-6 wearings for me to break in my aldens. Once they are set, you will NOT want to wear any other shoe (other than a different pair aldens). The insole, along with the cork footbed molds to your feet - and this will take a few wearning. Get your intial sizing right (not too tight, not too wide) and you will have a pair of shoes that your feel will be *very* happy about.


This has been my experience too. When I first got my alden loafers they really hurt my feet. Now they have stretched and are my most comfortable shoe. The trick is to get fitted by someone who knows what he's doing and whom you feel you can trust.


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## 1WB (Sep 25, 2008)

*Thank you!*



The Continental Fop said:


> When buying a new pair of shells -- particularly Alden's LHS loafer -- I strongly advise you to try a size 1/2 to a full size smaller than your usual shoe size. You don't want a new pair of shells to be uncomfortably tight. Just snug. A bit more snug than you would normally put up with in a new pair of calf dress shoes. Most guys find a half size down is what works best in the end. That's certainly been my experience . . .
> 
> Fact: You will buy your first pair of shells.
> 
> ...


Thank you - from someone who just bought the BB unlined LHS yesterday in a half-size too big (10D). Even with thick socks, my heel was slipping - and with thin socks my foot was almost coming out of them. They are going back in exchange for the 9.5D, which felt a little snug, and were (I now realize) the correct size.


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## nhorween (Jun 20, 2008)

Genuine shell cordovan will stretch very little. That said, the amount a shoe stretches, and how fast it breaks-in, is very much a function of shoe type, last, and construction. 

One thing to remember when dealing with leather at all times is that it is just... skin. All leather will breath or stretch some, but to what extent is dependent on both tannage and the type of leather.

For example, those Kudu Chukkas will stretch much more than a pair of Cordovan Chukkas in the same last. 

Further, soft/tumbled leather, and leather that shrinks during the tanning process (often due to hang drying, e.g. Chromexcel), will "relax" and generally stretch more than leathers that are toggled or pasted. 

Hope this helps!

Nick Horween
Horween Leather Co.


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## Speas (Mar 11, 2004)

^Great to have you here! There are big fans of Horween products around here.


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## srivats (Jul 29, 2008)

Nick, welcome to AAAC! 

Very nice of you to participate here.


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## The Continental Fop (Jan 12, 2007)

Awww, what does a guy named know about shell cordovan?...

Not that Nick's advice isn't the proverbial "straight from the horse's mouth", but too much anecdotal data exists to support the notion that shell shoes stretch and break-in a bit differently than those made of calf. I've owned far too many pairs of leather shoes both dress and casual, and I've never had a pair of calf leather shoes mold to my feet the way shell always does when it's sized a bit snug to begin with. Snug calf shoes remain snug in my experience, and calf shoes that feel "just right" at the store continue feeling that way henceforth. Not so with shell. 

That said, it's a hell of a thing for Nick to drop in here, what with all the cordovan groupies milling about. Who will be the first to suddenly blurt something crazy out of sheer giddiness? Fine, me:

HORWEEEEEEEEN!!! AAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## twistedswisster (Apr 5, 2009)

wow. This is a great forum. Nick, thanks for your reply.


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## Ron_A (Jun 5, 2007)

Nick, nice of you to post. I thought Horween is based in Chicago(?)


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## Markus (Sep 14, 2004)

*Sizing cordovan LHS shoes*

Everybody here is trying to give the best advice possible. Nobody wants anyone here to end up with a pair of cordo LHS that end up too loose.

But the advice about going down a half size will only work for some of us here. If I were to have done that the strap across the top of the shoe would have eventually torn, as it eventually did on my calf LHS.

I bought both my BB LHS and Alden LHS exactly the same size as my barrie-last calf bluchers. They fit great, are snug and are not stretching. They have molded to my feet.

Generalizations about always buying a half size down should be taken with a grain of salt. And a buyer has got to get to a dealer who carries all the standard widths. In most of theri stores BB only stocks the D width, you have to order the other widths, but it can be done and it is worth doing.


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

nhorween,
Welcome to the forum


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## The Continental Fop (Jan 12, 2007)

Horsehide's an interesting leather, no question. RE the break-in issue, several years ago I wanted to buy a real old-school leather motorcycle jacket. The real deal, like they used to be made in the 20s-50s, not like that neon Fast and Furious pudwear you see kids wear as they ride their Suzukis in packs in the suburbs.

Several experts pointed me to UK's Aero Leather and I sampled some of their more retro looking horsehide jackets, these being what the hardcore vintage guys consider the nee plus ultra of motorcycle jackets.

The all looked amazing, like you stepped back half a century and walked into a motorcycle garage to buy one brand new. But they were hands-down the stiffest, most uncomfortable leather jackets I've ever worn. Just ridiculous. I felt like the Tin Man in them. No range of motion at all.

The Aero dealer gave me the same spiel about horsehide I gave about shell shoes. "Of course it's stiff -- it's horsehide, not some namby pamby _soft_ leather like baby cow, or goat. You got to wear the hell out of it, ride in it, fight in it, sleep in it, puke in it, get shot at in it, and then it'll mold itself to you and feel like a pair of silk jammies."

I told him that even if I did want to buy one of his jackets, I couldn't for the life of me reach behind me to get my wallet out.

"Look, everyone bitches about the tight fit and the stiff leather at first. Wear the jacket every day, all day, and in a few months it'll break in."

Needless to say, I didn't get an Aero jacket.

Anyway it was too goddamned expensive, and really, a leather jacket at my age? I bought another pair of Alden shells instead.


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## M. Charles (Mar 31, 2007)

Markus said:


> Everybody here is trying to give the best advice possible. Nobody wants anyone here to end up with a pair of cordo LHS that end up too loose.
> 
> But the advice about going down a half size will only work for some of us here. If I were to have done that the strap across the top of the shoe would have eventually torn, as it eventually did on my calf LHS.
> 
> ...


In my case it was not a matter of going down half a size in length but getting one size narrower than usual. At first the shoes felt extremely tight at the strap and were very painful. I walked from grand central to 77th street with a girl and was about to die from pain but had to keep a straight face so as not to appear a wimp. I wanted to return the shoes presto. I kept them, though, and after more time wearing them they came to fit perfectly--they are now more comfortable than any other shoe I own.


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## AAF-8AF (Feb 24, 2009)

I'm new to shells, having only recently purchased a pair of Alden LHS and a pair of AE Bradley, but my experience so far seems to indicate a combination of stretchability and foot-forming. I say stretchability because it seems they *can* be stretched, but it may be a matter of *how*. I bought and applied a stretcher to both sets of shoes (one shoe each) because I felt my foot itself was not going to move the leather around sufficiently (or sufficiently soon enough). Fortunately, the fit was close enough to start that they didn't need much. After that, what I notice is that the shoes are cold and stiff when I put them on in morning, but after 20 or 30 minutes they seem to warm up and flow around my feet, with any minor discomforts disappearing. If the shoes were much tighter to begin with, I could see this not happening as well, or as quickly, and I might lose patience with them and decide that shells will never stretch and I made a huge mistake. Luckily, I'm good so far.



The Continental Fop said:


> The all looked amazing, like you stepped back half a century and walked into a motorcycle garage to buy one brand new. But they were hands-down the stiffest, most uncomfortable leather jackets I've ever worn. Just ridiculous. I felt like the Tin Man in them. No range of motion at all.
> 
> The Aero dealer gave me the same spiel about horsehide I gave about shell shoes. "Of course it's stiff -- it's horsehide, not some namby pamby _soft_ leather like baby cow, or goat. You got to wear the hell out of it, ride in it, fight in it, sleep in it, puke in it, get shot at in it, and then it'll mold itself to you and feel like a pair of silk jammies.


^ On this topic, the Aero dealer was clearly generalizing and feeding a line. There are plenty of horsehide jackets which are soft and comfortable right out of the box, A-2 jackets as an example which Aero makes as well, so I would assume they wanted a tough jacket for motorcycling and just went too far.


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## LeicaLad (Nov 5, 2006)

Oooh. Just to add another welcome to Nick. As noted, many serious fans of Horween leathers, especially the cordovans. We hope to hear more, and hope you are not suddenly pestered by the same said hordes of fans!!!


:icon_smile_big:


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## The Continental Fop (Jan 12, 2007)

I would love to find a good, tough horsehide jacket that wasn't Tin Man stiff. I did try Aero's A-2 and it was as stiff as the others. Are you sure the A-2 you checked out wasn't goat or another leather? Every horsehide jacket I've tried, including some vintage ones I got off eBay to try, has had the same stiffness more or less. I would have loved this kind of protection when I was riding, but now that I'm strictly a landlubber I'm not sure I need that kind of bulletproof layer of skin on my back.

FWIW I have no doubt that these horsehide jackets would break in and feel more comfortable over time. I just found them much more restrictive overall than just a snug pair of shell shoes waiting to break in. So, one less middle-aged jackass pretending he's Spenser.



AAF-8AF said:


> ^ On this topic, the Aero dealer was clearly generalizing and feeding a line. There are plenty of horsehide jackets which are soft and comfortable right out of the box, A-2 jackets as an example which Aero makes as well, so I would assume they wanted a tough jacket for motorcycling and just went too far.


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## AAF-8AF (Feb 24, 2009)

The Continental Fop said:


> I would love to find a good, tough horsehide jacket that wasn't Tin Man stiff. I did try Aero's A-2 and it was as stiff as the others. Are you sure the A-2 you checked out wasn't goat or another leather?


I've been studying and collecting repro and vintage A-2's since 1991. Currently, I have five reproductions of which three are horse, one is goat, and one is steer. Of the three horse, two are very pliant and comfortable and one is very tough and stiff (not my favorite). I also have a good number of WWII vintage jackets. I know it can be hit or miss and vary quite a lot both between repro makers and from consignment to consignment of hides from any given maker, but stiff horse isn't necessary.

This thread seems formally hijacked at this point, so maybe this should go further offline? I have a web site with lots of A-2 information (www.AcmeDepot.com) and I'd be glad to talk over e-mail. There is also a very active discussion forum with lots of A-2 fans who could also help you find just what you might be looking for --

Marc


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## well-kept (May 6, 2006)

While horsehide and shell are not the same, they do share certain qualities. Having worn both I think they each deserve and reward their respective break-in periods. A couple of years ago I found an unworn, pristine condition 1940s A2 in FQ Horsehide. It felt like plywood and took an entire winter of daily wear to soften up. Even then, much stiffer than goat, lamb, etc.

Shell cordovan does indeed soften, stretch and conform to the feet, much more easily than the horsehide A2, more slowly than calf. My oldest shells, to answer the OP, are AEs that I have worn for 12 years. They are, by now, such perfect replicas of my feet that they may as well have been cast from them.


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## srivats (Jul 29, 2008)

TCP, you might want to check out www.goodwearleather.com

I have a A-2 jacket from John Chapman (owner of goodwear leather) and it is outstanding to say the least. Mine is goatskin though. I am a member of VLJ too and JC's jackets are much appreciated there. They are a bit pricey, but way better than anything else out there (Aero/Eastman etc). I spent a lot of time trying to see who made the best jacket and settled with John. If you want see a pic, send me a PM and I'll be happy to share some pics.


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## AAF-8AF (Feb 24, 2009)

srivats said:


> TCP, you might want to check out www.goodwearleather.com
> 
> I have a A-2 jacket from John Chapman (owner of goodwear leather) and it is outstanding to say the least. Mine is goatskin though. I am a member of VLJ too and JC's jackets are much appreciated there. They are a bit pricey, but way better than anything else out there (Aero/Eastman etc). I spent a lot of time trying to see who made the best jacket and settled with John. If you want see a pic, send me a PM and I'll be happy to share some pics.


Ditto to the max. I didn't mention this at first since I've known John for years and have cheered on his jacket making venture since he even first thought of doing it. If you want a great jacket with a very high degree of historical authenticity, you can't go wrong here.

Srivats, is your goatskin a Doniger? I told John after he started making that one that it would easily be his signature jacket. Given the hide, the label, the combination of construction details, and a rare original maker, it was bound to be a hit. It's at the top of my short list. If only I hadn't started buying shoes 

Marc


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## srivats (Jul 29, 2008)

AAF-8AF said:


> Srivats, is your goatskin a Doniger? I told John after he started making that one that it would easily be his signature jacket. Given the hide, the label, the combination of construction details, and a rare original maker, it was bound to be a hit. It's at the top of my short list. If only I hadn't started buying shoes


Mine is a Doniger and the leather is simply outstanding.


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## AAF-8AF (Feb 24, 2009)

^ Congrats! That's a special jacket to have.

Marc


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## Hullabaloo (Nov 11, 2008)

Just when I was about to give up on my shells, the long-awaited stretch seems to have taken place. The shoes are noticeably more comfortable and it looks like I won't have to give them up after all. Thanks for the good advice!

I'm currently eyeing the Alden bit loafer. If I took an 11D in the shell, should I go up to 11.5 D in the Cape Cod?


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## The Continental Fop (Jan 12, 2007)

Man, those are some outstanding looking A-2s. I am very, very lucky to have gotten the leather jacket thing out of my system by the time you showed me this web site. Otherwise I would have ordered one on the spot. Just gorgeous work. Thank you for the eye candy.



srivats said:


> TCP, you might want to check out www.goodwearleather.com
> 
> I have a A-2 jacket from John Chapman (owner of goodwear leather) and it is outstanding to say the least. Mine is goatskin though. I am a member of VLJ too and JC's jackets are much appreciated there. They are a bit pricey, but way better than anything else out there (Aero/Eastman etc). I spent a lot of time trying to see who made the best jacket and settled with John. If you want see a pic, send me a PM and I'll be happy to share some pics.


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## The Continental Fop (Jan 12, 2007)

Congratulations on the shell break-in! When they finish molding to your feet, you'll know why these shoes are so special.

I recommend true sizing when it comes to Alden's Cape Cods, all of which are non-shell to my knowledge. But I strongly recommend an in-store fitting, unless you're dealing with an online merchant who accepts returns if you don't like the fit.



Hullabaloo said:


> Just when I was about to give up on my shells, the long-awaited stretch seems to have taken place. The shoes are noticeably more comfortable and it looks like I won't have to give them up after all. Thanks for the good advice!
> 
> I'm currently eyeing the Alden bit loafer. If I took an 11D in the shell, should I go up to 11.5 D in the Cape Cod?


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## The Continental Fop (Jan 12, 2007)

I like your web site -- lots of interesting and entertaining info you've collected there.

Why is the A-2 so popular among leather jacket guys, do you suppose? It's a fine looking design, but I always wondered why it seems to be The One that guys hunt down. History? Utility?



AAF-8AF said:


> I've been studying and collecting repro and vintage A-2's since 1991. Currently, I have five reproductions of which three are horse, one is goat, and one is steer. Of the three horse, two are very pliant and comfortable and one is very tough and stiff (not my favorite). I also have a good number of WWII vintage jackets. I know it can be hit or miss and vary quite a lot both between repro makers and from consignment to consignment of hides from any given maker, but stiff horse isn't necessary.
> 
> This thread seems formally hijacked at this point, so maybe this should go further offline? I have a web site with lots of A-2 information (www.AcmeDepot.com) and I'd be glad to talk over e-mail. There is also a very active discussion forum with lots of A-2 fans who could also help you find just what you might be looking for --
> 
> Marc


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## AAF-8AF (Feb 24, 2009)

The Continental Fop said:


> I like your web site -- lots of interesting and entertaining info you've collected there.


Thanks very much.



> Why is the A-2 so popular among leather jacket guys, do you suppose? It's a fine looking design, but I always wondered why it seems to be The One that guys hunt down. History? Utility?


That's a tough question to answer, but I'd say it's a combination of the jacket's simplicity, its history (how cool all those WWII flyers looked), and it's an "accessible" jacket for most people. It's the blue blazer of leather jackets. The G-1 is great, too, but the collar, the bi-swing back, the somewhat intrusive windflap, and all the small leather panels add complexity. Motorcycle jackets are great as well, but they're also rugged to the extreme and not for everyone. After that, things get into all kinds of different styles where, arguably, nothing has the broad iconic acceptance of the A-2.

But having said that, it's not the perfect jacket, either. When it fits right to look the best it's also short, the sleeves ride up as soon as you move your arms up from your sides, and it'll never really keep you warm. Oddly, all that appeals to me. After a good amount of wear in a well-fitting A-2, it becomes like a glove to your upper body.

Oh, yeah, and I love how shell cordovan shoes slowly mold to your feet.

Marc


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## ASH (Feb 7, 2006)

*AE Shell - too loose near the heel*

I have a a pair of Shell cordovan split toe (Bradley)AE's - 9E. The shoe fits perfectly in the front, but loose near the heel. I have worn them for about 3 years and its about time to resole (in about another 6 months).

Does anyone know if AE re-soling process can tighten the back of the shoes?

Thanks


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## twistedswisster (Apr 5, 2009)

UPDATE: Well, it's been a few weeks. I originally ordered the black cordovan chukkas in 9E with commando sole from Adam at Alden-of-Carmel. When they arrived, I tried on the right shoe (since my right foot is larger). It was definitely too big. That was strange, because the kudu version fit my right foot perfectly in 9E. I went ahead and returned the 9E's in exchange for the 9D's. 

The 9D's just arrived -- and they fit perfectly. Where the right foot was a little too snug in the kudu version, it's perfect in cordovan. I don't know what the difference is, but there you go. Incidentally, Alden customer service finally replied to my email (two weeks after I emailed them?!) and suggested the 9D would be the way to go. They said the kudu and cordovan will fit slightly differently. I would have to agree.

Anyway, count me a very pleased Alden customer -- especially with Alden-of-Carmel. The chukkas are beautiful.


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## AAF-8AF (Feb 24, 2009)

twistedswisster said:


> The 9D's just arrived -- and they fit perfectly. Where the right foot was a little too snug in the kudu version, it's perfect in cordovan. I don't know what the difference is, but there you go. Incidentally, Alden customer service finally replied to my email (two weeks after I emailed them?!) and suggested the 9D would be the way to go. They said the kudu and cordovan will fit slightly differently. I would have to agree.


Congrats on the shell cords. I'm sure they will be great. As for the fit difference, it's my understanding that shell shoes often have a bit more room than the same shoe in calf (or other regular leather) because the tough shell leather is more difficult too pull as snugly around the last.


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## theshoemart.com (Jan 9, 2009)

*Yes, they do stretch*

Alden Shell Cordovan shoes will stretch, but it takes time. If normal shoes take about 2 weeks to break in, Alden Shell Cordovan Shoes will take about 2 months.

Another factor for the stretching is how they fit you when you first get them. The tighter the original fit, the more they are going to stretch. If they originally fit loose, their is no pressure to make them stretch. The more pressure from a tighter fit will cause the Alden Shell Cordovan material to stretch more, but they will only give so much and it will take time. We sell Alden's entire line on our website and have one of the largest in stock inventories on the East Coast. We also have an entire line of Alden Special Make-Up Edition Shoes made for TheShoeMart. Please visit our site or contact us at 800-850-7463 if you have any questions or want to purchase.


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