# Custom Rancourt & Co. Questions.



## MrDowntempo (Feb 16, 2013)

Hi all! This is my first post here, but I've lurked a bit. My wardrobe was in a need of some class so I'm in the long process of rebuilding it from the ground up. That means I'm starting with shoes which is where it needed it the most. Here's me in some mostly new clothes so you can see the direction I'm going in. I already picked up some Wolverine 1000 mile Addison boots in dark brown and love 'em. Now I need some casual shoes. Boat shoes seem to be in right now, but damn I do not like 'em. It's the chord around them that ruins it for me. Eventually I saw by Rancourt & Co., which are the best looking boat shoes I've ever seen. I still don't think they're right for me, but I started looking around their site and learned they do a lot of custom work. Of all their other similar styles the is what I like the most. I need it in a lighter color than my boots so I'm going with Natural Chromexcel. Penny loafers, even with the beefrolls seem a step more formal than boat shoes, but that'll be fixed with the addition of a white vibram sole which would make them look something like this. To get them a little bit more personalized I asked about getting the saddle (part where the penny would go) in Color no.8. They said they could do it, and for a little bit more I could get that single piece in shell. 


So far so good, but then I read about the Reltex soles. And from others have heard they're the most comfortable soles you can get. Sadly they're only available in 3 colors, none of which appear to go with my current color scheme. I found this pic of natural chromexcel beefroll penny loafers with a realtex sole and I don't think they look as good. These shoes are getting expensive, (heck they start at over $200). My philosophy with rebuilding my wardrobe is that its okay to spend more on items as long as they are well made, high quality and versatile. Since I'll be wearing these a lot, especially since it's getting warmer, I'm thinking it might be smarter to invest in the Reltex sole, but then I gotta rethink my design. Do you guys think one of the reltex colors could work? Should I ditch the color 8 saddle? Should I stick to the vibram sole for the look? I know they're certainly not bad soles!

What are your opinions of pinking on loafers? Is it an interesting detail or superfluous? It seems to be mostly found on , but it can be found on as well. Should I worry that pinked edges will start to look bad over time and deteriorate quicker than the rest of the shoe? Also any advice on other custom options I should inquire about? What about lining for instance?


Thanks for any assistance from a recovering fashion noob!


----------



## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

Welcome to the forum, MrDt. There seem to be some glitches on the forums due to a frequent software update so I don't know if your post will get the usual traffic. Now, on to your questions.

I see that you've stumbled upon the gem that is Rancourt. The fact that they can customize any shoe is a god-send to those with a little more sartorial experience but it can easily overwhelm someone just starting out. Mixing and matching dress shoe uppers with workboot soles and multicolored leathers just because you can is not the best approach. If you are truly starting from scratch and you want to invest in shoes that are high quality, you can't do much better than Rancourt for handsewns. However, if you want shoes that are VERSATILE, you need to stick to the basics first. If you're looking for a casual handsewn and you don't like boat shoes or camp mocs (both have 360* lacing), take a look at a traditional . If you like penny loafers, get a traditional version. They are incredibly versatile and can be dressed up or down quite easily. Once you have your basics covered, you can experiment with different materials, colors, soles and pinking.

I realize that might not be the response you're looking for. However, filling your closet with (expensive) "statement pieces" will take up valuable real estate in your wardrobe and will severely limit how often you wear them and how easily they can be paired with other elements. If you take a look at the WAYWT thread, you'll notice that the more experienced members like The Rambler and Billax have some interesting gems from Rancourt but not at the expense of a solid foundation in the basics.


----------



## MrDowntempo (Feb 16, 2013)

Thanks for the reply! I was worried I posted some sort of faux pas and that was the reason I wasn't getting any replies on such a high traffic forum. 

I definitely hear you about going for versatility, but I stand by my decision of custom beefrolls. Let me try to justify it. I'm 29, still young enough to get away with some more ostentatious items. I work at home so currently have no need for a suit and real dress shoes. When that need arises I'll probably go with something like Allen Edmond Strands. I also live in Florida where it is warmer a lot more than cold. The pants in my wardrobe is mostly denim. I've got some old ugly work kahkis too but will slowly be phasing them out with chinos. The bulcher moc is my 2nd favorite Rancourt shoe and I have been considering it as an alternative. Still the beefroll loafers really grab me more. Maybe it's because I've never seen beefrolls before and have always considered all penny loafers to be full strap or similar. The beefrolls seem to already take them a step in the casual direction, the non-leather soles would just continue that trend. Also I'll be wearing them a lot and probably on some various terrains. I won't be hiking or rock climbing in them, but I'll be on enough asphalt wet grass, and clay roads to warrant a more comfortable sole. Plus I really like how the white pops, that's what's holding me back from the Lactae Hevea right now. Oh and as far as the Color 8. Saddle goes, Even when I'll need light brown shoes, I always wear the same watch with a Color 8 shell band. Having my watchstrap match part of my shoes seems like a good move. I'm also a sucker for having something unique, all my own =)


----------



## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

Sounds like you know exactly what you want. Good luck on your purchase and post pics!


----------



## PolieCat (Dec 14, 2007)

If the sole colors aren't quite right, your other idea of using the Vibram soles sounds like the way to go. They'll give you traction in the damp situations you've discussed and impart a casual look. I have no idea about the pinking question you raise.


----------



## MrDowntempo (Feb 16, 2013)

Been thinking it over and maybe hardline42 is right and I should go with something less wild and more versatile. Still really wanna try out the reltex though. Considering maybe these natural CXL beefroll penny loafers with honey reltex sole.








or maybe a blake chukka, also natural CXL and reltex:









thoughts?


----------



## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

Both of those are definitely in the ball park. My only suggestions would be to go with either the brown or #8 CXL for the beefrolls (the natural will be difficult to pair with khakis and other lighter colored trousers that are normally worn in loafer weather) and go with a non-lugged sole (use the sole shown on the beefrolls) for the chukkas so you can more easily dress them up or down. 

This is more of a preference thing, but consider the option of color-matched stitching on the vamp and rolls as opposed to contrast-stitching. It maintains the feel of a "rugged" penny but is still perfectly at home worn with a sport coat and tie, IMO. Also, you can apply colored cream or wax polish without fear of staining the thread:


----------



## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

MrDowntempo said:


> Been thinking it over and maybe hardline42 is right and I should go with something less wild and more versatile. Still really wanna try out the reltex though. Considering maybe these natural CXL beefroll penny loafers with honey reltex sole.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Natural toned CXL Beefrool Penny loafers, lined in leather and outfitted with the "honey hued, realtex soles," is the combination of design elements that Kyle incorporated in my third pair of shoes purchased from Rancourt. The comfort is superb, the realtex soles are proving surprisingly durable (much more so, than plantation crepe soles) and people seem to note and offer positive comments about my footwear choice, with surprising frequency on those occasions I am wearing these shoes. Hope your experience with this design is as positive as mine has been! Good luck in your hunt.


----------



## Charles Saturn (May 27, 2010)

Don't sweat the reltex color issue. The honey color loses its amber appearance rather quickly. Someone really has to be giving you the third degree to notice the color of the soles. The great thing about the reltex soles is that come with a leather midsole and hence look much more formal than the camp soles. The vibram comes with a midsole as well, but are not nearly as comfortable as the reltex. I would recommend starting with the brown cmxl, its their best color. The #8 cmxl is kinda purple. Don't have the natural, so can't comment on that. Start slow with Rancourt. The cmxl is hard to fit. It really stretches. So tighter is better. Don't forget they offer a shoe built on a combination last, so you have the ability to really dial your fit in.


----------



## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

hardline_42 said:


> Both of those are definitely in the ball park. My only suggestions would be to go with either the brown or #8 CXL for the beefrolls (the natural will be difficult to pair with khakis and other lighter colored trousers that are normally worn in loafer weather) and go with a non-lugged sole (use the sole shown on the beefrolls) for the chukkas so you can more easily dress them up or down.
> 
> This is more of a preference thing, but consider the option of color-matched stitching on the vamp and rolls as opposed to contrast-stitching. It maintains the feel of a "rugged" penny but is still perfectly at home worn with a sport coat and tie, IMO. Also, you can apply colored cream or wax polish without fear of staining the thread:


^This. I don't want to have to be delicate when polishing my shoes. Of course, there's neutral polish (which I assume you're alluding to by saying "coloured"), but I hear it leaves a whitish residue.


----------



## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^..."a whitish residue?"
Indeed neutral toned polish will result in "a whitish residue" rising from the creases across the more darkly hued shoe's vamp plug, as does the Phoenix from the ashes of it's own destruction. But such can be easily and quickly buffed away prior to wearing said shoes and all is once again...well!


----------



## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

eagle2250 said:


> ^^..."a whitish residue?"
> Indeed neutral toned polish will result in "a whitish residue" rising from the creases across the more darkly hued shoe's vamp plug, as does the Phoenix from the ashes of it's own destruction. But such can be easily and quickly buffed away prior to wearing said shoes and all is once again...well!


Eagle, keep in mind that you're an accomplished dresser with a stable full of Rancourts while our OP is a self-proclaimed noob when it comes to shoes. We're trying to steer him toward the most versatile, easily maintained shoe for his money that still fits his criteria and you're not helping! You're like the grandpa feeding the grandchildren sweets when their parents' backs are turned. :tongue2:


----------



## tocqueville (Nov 15, 2009)

I love those beefrolls and have been thinking along the same lines. I've also been pondering camp mocs, but concluded that I preferred either the ranger or the beefroll because of the looks and because I want to wear these in the summer with no-show socks, and I worry that the vamp on the camp moc would be too low.

If I--and the OP--can afford it, I'd recommend getting two Rancourts. Let the first be a classic beefroll in #8 cxl with a leather sole. Classic and super versatile. But then pair it with a ranger moc with a crepe or RLH sole for casual duty or lots of walking.

If one can only afford one pair, the case for the beefroll with leather sole is still hard to beat, for all the reasons Hardline has given. The RLH, though, represents a decent compromise, esp. since it won't be obvious that it's rubber. I've read nothing but good things about the RLH. I think the beefroll on crepe is terrific, but not as a first loafer.

By the way, I think the OP will find, as we all have, that Rancourts are fantastic. If I could, I'd own a half-dozen, easy. My one pair of crepe-soled suede chukka mocs is by far my favorite pair of shoes.


----------



## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

^ Actually, I find the looks of the RLH sole quite acceptable compared to leather. Probably more so than a Commando sole. Good recommendations, Tocque.


----------



## Crue4 (Jun 1, 2010)

hardline_42 said:


> Both of those are definitely in the ball park. My only suggestions would be to go with either the brown or #8 CXL for the beefrolls (the natural will be difficult to pair with khakis and other lighter colored trousers that are normally worn in loafer weather) and go with a non-lugged sole (use the sole shown on the beefrolls) for the chukkas so you can more easily dress them up or down.
> 
> This is more of a preference thing, but consider the option of color-matched stitching on the vamp and rolls as opposed to contrast-stitching. It maintains the feel of a "rugged" penny but is still perfectly at home worn with a sport coat and tie, IMO. Also, you can apply colored cream or wax polish without fear of staining the thread:


What color is that particular shoe in your picture? Is it from Rancourt?


----------



## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

Crue4 said:


> What color is that particular shoe in your picture? Is it from Rancourt?


 in dark brown saddle.


----------



## ylkim30 (Jan 5, 2012)

Does anyone know whether Rancourt MTO can make shoes larger than size 13 and adjust the width to make them wider (E or EEE)?


----------



## Semper Jeep (Oct 11, 2011)

ylkim30 said:


> Does anyone know whether Rancourt MTO can make shoes larger than size 13 and adjust the width to make them wider (E or EEE)?


I have three pair of Rancourt shoes, all in an E width. However, my feet are much smaller than a size 13 though so I cannot comment on that aspect.


----------



## MrDowntempo (Feb 16, 2013)

While dark brown or #8 may be a better overall choice. I've already got dark brown 1000 mile boots. They're the addisons with the wingtips, so I think I can dress those up when need be. I don't have anything in a light brown though. I think to improve the versatility of MY wardrobe, light brown may be a better decision. I will go with the RLH soles in honey though. Thanks for the advice guys. 

I'm still a little torn about switching the color of the saddle. Might that be *too much*? I do wear a cordovan watch strap in Color #8 every day so I was thinking that might justify it.


----------



## BiffBiffster (Jul 2, 2012)

MrDowntempo said:


> While dark brown or #8 may be a better overall choice. I've already got dark brown 1000 mile boots. They're the addisons with the wingtips, so I think I can dress those up when need be. I don't have anything in a light brown though. I think to improve the versatility of MY wardrobe, light brown may be a better decision. I will go with the RLH soles in honey though. Thanks for the advice guys.
> 
> I'm still a little torn about switching the color of the saddle. Might that be *too much*? I do wear a cordovan watch strap in Color #8 every day so I was thinking that might justify it.


Sounds like you'd rather be "Urban Hipster" than "Trad."

Nothing wrong with that. But you might be barking up the wrong tree as far as seeking support.


----------



## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

^ I think what Biff is trying to say is, you've gotten quite a bit of solid advice in this thread already. A watchband is not reason enough to make a $200+ dollar decision on a pair of shoes when you don't have your bases covered. However, if you want it, have at it.


----------

