# Armani Collezione and other Armani brands



## NYCniceguy (Feb 15, 2006)

Can anyone describe the difference between Armani Collezione, Giorgio Armani, and all other Armani brands that are out there. Which is their most premium brand (a la purple label)? Are any of them made exclusively in Italy? Any labels to avoid for sure? Thanks.


----------



## Holdfast (Oct 30, 2005)

I'm not a big Armani fan but my understanding is that Collezione is reasonably good and Giorgio Armani is the top line. Mani is supposed to be pretty shoddily constructed and anything lower is complete junk.

But that's just my overall impression; don't know any details.


----------



## rach2jlc (Jan 18, 2005)

We've discussed this a number of times and had some good discussions as to the levels. So, my recommendation:

Go to www.google.com and type in:

Armani hierarchy site:www.askandyaboutclothes.com

If something doesn't come up with "hierarchy"... try playing around with the search terms. In any case, you'll come up with a number of previous discussions. Hope it helps!

In any case, very briefly:

Giorgio Armani: main line, highest quality and materials (compared to other Armani labels, that is), most expensive.

Armani Collezioni: Diffusion line, 30% cheaper than the main line, cheaper construction and materials, but with an aesthetic not altogether different from the mainline.

Emporio Armani: More sportswear oriented and targeted for a younger clientele. Prices are perhaps slightly cheaper than Collezioni; quality ranges from fair to surprisingly bad.

Mani: this line has been dissolved and is no longer in production, but it was also a diffusion line. (The former topmost line, Classico, has also been dissolved, I believe).

Armani Exchange: This line is produced under license by a Japanese company marketing on the Armani name. Kenneth Cole-esque quality or perhaps even less than that.

John


----------



## johnnyblazini (Feb 24, 2006)

I have a collezione suit and although I really like the cut, it is also fused...


----------



## Crazytree (Feb 6, 2006)

I have a Giorgio Armani... in my size. The thing is cut for stringbeans!

_-clueless 1st year associate attorney, los angeles._


----------



## NYCniceguy (Feb 15, 2006)

John: that was the most excellent explanation. Thanks. 

Now, can you repeat for Hugo Boss brands? And what exactly is fusion/diffusion?


----------



## rach2jlc (Jan 18, 2005)

You're very welcome!

However, I'll leave Hugo Boss' hierarchy up to those who know the brand better. For me, I don't know the brand well (aside from a few polo's, I haven't owned much by them).

Diffusion/main line/etc. refers to the positioning of a brand. The "main line" is the designer's highest label, the one upon which he (ostensibly) works the hardest, and the one for which he stakes his reputation. As such, it generally is made of the best materials and is priced the highest.

A diffusion line is just that, a diffusion of the designer's ideas and styles intended to be more financially accessible. Some other diffusion labels would be D&G (the main line is Dolce & Gabbana), Versace Jeans Couture (as opposed to Gianni Versace), CNC (as opposed to Costume National), etc. These all are priced considerably less than their respective main lines, intending to target wider audience. As such, their quality and materials are considerably less. As well, they are made in totally separate facilities, often under totally different management.

John


----------



## DressPRMex (Jun 20, 2005)

> quote:_Originally posted by rach2jlc_
> 
> We've discussed this a number of times and had some good discussions as to the levels. So, my recommendation:
> 
> ...


Also Armani Jeans, which is their totally over-priced jeans and casual wear line, for people who simply are not comfortable unless they through their green down the drain for something that looks and feels a lot like the much cheaper A/X line.


----------



## DressPRMex (Jun 20, 2005)

> quote:I'll leave Hugo Boss' hierarchy up to those who know the brand better


Let me take a stab at this one:

Boss Selection: Their current top of the range, since they dropped Baldessarini. Boss launched "Selection" to compete with the E Zegna Sartorial price-point. A more tailored line, with partially canvassed jackets and supposedly better fabrics. IMHO, it is crazy to even consider paying so much for anything Boss.

Boss Black: Their original massive marketing success. An ultra well positioned name which is aspirational to people who just finished college, are entering the work force and are still clueless about clothing but want to look "sophisticated" (or want to look like the panting dude on the ads). Quality-wise, Boss Black is cr*p, especially when compared to other lines with similar or even lower price points.

Boss Orange: Their trendy stuff for 20-somethings who still fantasize about being rock stars and having that _rebel _ lifestyle (with moronic $100.00 T-shirts that will not stand a third wash). In other words, very poorly made stuff at a premium for people who still havenâ€™t realized that a suit and tie is the way to go.

Boss Green: Their latest effort to capitalize on the brand with people who go to the gym to be seen rather than to exercise.

Hugo: A line for people who think of themselves as â€œavant-gardeâ€, for whatever the hell that means. Similar prices than the Black line with a more fashion-forward look for advertising executives and the sort. Lads who cannot afford Dior Homme, still donâ€™t want to be part of the pack, but have to put on a jacket every now and then to present to clients. Lots of pointy shoes, if you know what I mean.

Hope this helps.


----------



## rach2jlc (Jan 18, 2005)

[/quote]

Also Armani Jeans, which is their totally over-priced jeans and casual wear line, for people who simply are not comfortable unless they through their green down the drain for something that looks and feels a lot like the much cheaper A/X line.
[/quote]

That's right, how could I have forgotten AJ? Perhaps because, as you mentioned, it is utterly forgettable.

John


----------



## MarkusH (Dec 10, 2004)

A couple of additional comments on Armani's lines:

Giorgio Armani is good stuff - the suits are supposedly made by Vestimenta and worth the price when on sale. They look very good on tall, slim guys.

Armani Collezioni is produced in a JV with Zegna. It is indeed fused, but the fabrics are quite good. It used to be called Giorgio Armani Le Collezioni and was produced by Gruppo GFT. It used to be manufactured in Italy - Zegna supposedly built a brand new factory - but I saw a suit this summer that was made in Eastern Europe. Mr Armani himself has no involvement whatsoever in the line, except collection his money.

Emporio Armani does indeed have spotty quality, but Mr Armani supposedly is involved in the design.

Armani Exchange is as far as I understand only sold in the United States. (I don't know about Asia). I might therefore overlap with Armani Jeans, which is sold globally. Mani (which was junk last time I looked at a suit) was also a US-only line.

Then there is the Armani Casa line for your home.


----------



## Roger (Feb 18, 2005)

Rach2jlc and MarkusH: This is all news to me, although I haven't kept up with GA in the last little while. About a year or less ago, we had Collezione and then above that, Black Label and above that Classico (along with the lesser lines you've mentioned). Have these lines disappeared? Or perhaps been coalesced into this one Giorgio Armani line?

One other question: I have an Armani suit--with the designation _Le_ _Collezioni_--that I bought in the early 90s. It is a fairly high-quality suit and is not fused. It manifests really terrific lines and cut, and the fabric is also first-class. I don't think this was a diffusion line at that time. Did the quality of Collezioni garments go down hill when it went to Gruppo GFT?

Vancouver


----------



## mmkn (Jan 14, 2005)

Back when Maxfield's in Los Angeles carried Giorgio Armani, I was told that the Black Label made for them was the "Blackest of Black Labels." 

Translated, the buyers at Maxfield chose fabrics that their movie stars clientele might buy.

The few items I have from there do fit the description.

- M


----------



## Preston (Aug 8, 2003)

> quote:_Originally posted by MarkusH_
> ...Armani Collezioni is produced in a JV with Zegna. It is indeed fused, but the fabrics are quite good. It used to be called Giorgio Armani Le Collezioni and was produced by Gruppo GFT. It used to be manufactured in Italy - Zegna supposedly built a brand new factory - but I saw a suit this summer that was made in Eastern Europe...


Interesting stuff! Any idea where I could get additional info on that JV? Press releases perhaps? I always find the somewhat incestuous relationships within the textile world interesting. Strange bedfellows and all that.


----------



## rach2jlc (Jan 18, 2005)

Roger,

I believe it is as you mentioned, that the Classico line was merged into the Giorgio Armani line, which is also called "Black label" (although, actually, it is just the "Giorgio Armani" line, but the label is colored black and so people sometimes call it this). 

I believe that the lines were merged because of a lack of identity and a confusion amongst the lines. This was also the case with MANI, which makes sense because many of us on this site have trouble making sense of all of Armani's lines. But, now there seems to be a little more "streamlining"... a top line, a diffusion, a jeans line, a home line, a sportswear line, etc. Not two top lines (Classico/"Black Label"), Diffusions (collezioni, mani), etc etc. 

As for quality, I do believe that it has gone down recently. I have several garments from recent Collezioni collections, including a suit or two, and while I love the cut, they are most definitely fused and so-so quality. Same with a few shirts and odd pants. On the other hand, some of my father's older Le Collezioni items seem to be made of much nicer materials. So, there is probably much to what you mention about your own suit NOT being fused.

John


----------



## FMINUS (Jan 9, 2006)

IMO Armani label is not the greatest in any slight way. Thier ties are not worth the asking price and neither are thier suits.

HOWEVER!
The Giogio Armani Black label uses GREAT material and I LOVE thier cuts. These suits are made by Vestimenta Spa. Most of thier suits are canvassed except the spring and summer lines which sometimes are not.

I own 3 black label suits and I simply LOVE them. If you are into traditional styles, this isnt for you and you could probably get a better value elsewhere.

A rep told me that thier maximum size is 46? or something like that because the designers didnt want someone of a large figure to wear thier suits. How accurate this is, I cannot tell, but its just what I heard.


----------



## AndreMcGrath (Feb 1, 2006)

No one has mentioned Collezione shirts. I have three of them, and think they are pretty nice. Nice fabric, good fit. Not Borrelli, for sure, but nice just the same. And easy to pick up in the $100 to $150 range on sale or on Ebay.

Mark


----------



## burnedandfrozen (Mar 11, 2004)

I'm only so-so on Armani. There's certainly a mystique about his clothes and he is generally credited for the "soft shoulder look". Anybody who says wearing a suit is too stiff and uncomfortable never wore an Armani. I'm not too up to date with what lines he has going these days but afaik the Classico line was on par with the already established black lable. The difference was that the classico line apparently had a more structured cut to the suits. I think Mani is still going, I seem to recall seeing some suits at Off 5th a couple monthes ago although they may just be leftovers.
You have to wonder though if Armani would still be as popular if the film American Gigolo didn't showcase his wares especially that scene where Gere is laying out all those shirts, ties, and suits while snorting coke. How 80's can you get?


----------



## Rollo Tomasi (Mar 19, 2006)

Hello all,

Long time lurker first time poster.

My closet consists of a few Collezione suits (1 Black Label), Zegna Couture, Zegna Mainline (Roma Cut). I wear suits everyday as an operations area manager for a Fortune 500 company. I'm considered a good OTR 46R (58 Eur), thus I've felt it unecessary thus far to go the MTM route. While I value and respect the opinions of many here, some who are truly artisans in the craft, I feel that these two labels fit very well on me, with construction and fabric I truly appreciate.

Now, I know that Armani has gotten a lot flack regarding fusing, but I think a lot of gents here, especially those who appreciate a good business suit, will like their new Executive line. According to the Armani rep who was touring one of the Nordstroms here in SoCal, the Executive line has a half canvas construction with slightly squarer shoulders and a nice waist suppression that can accomodate skinny body types as well as your more full figured American. I've bought 4 Executive line suits thus far and they've all been great. They're certainly not on par with my Zegna Couture suits, but they look good on and are very professional with a touch of sophistication.

I haven't gotten over the psychological threshold yet of investing in a Brioni. But reading these forums over the past 2 months certainly convinced me to tell my favorite sales person at Neiman Marcus to look out for when a couple go on sale for Last Call. But OTOH, I certainly do not have any regrets about my Collezione suits AND dress shirts. The new Armani luxury line shirts are simply exquisite and they're still made in Italy.

I'm of the mindset that a $2000 suit can look like a $200 suit on a person if the fit is wrong and is coordinated with the wrong shirt, tie, shoe, and accessory. Personal style does not attach itself to a label or pricepoint. Therefore, despite the bashing Armani receives in these forums (many times rightfully so), the pieces I have were sound purchases I absolutely have no regrets about.


----------



## Rollo Tomasi (Mar 19, 2006)

> quote:_Originally posted by FMINUS_
> 
> IMO Armani label is not the greatest in any slight way. Thier ties are not worth the asking price and neither are thier suits.
> 
> ...


I believe they go up to a 58-60L Eur. At least these sizes were available at the Armani Boutique in South Coast Plaza. And I agree with you on the black label suit. The cut and drape on mine are excellent and the material is light and easy to wear.


----------



## Zubberah (Sep 29, 2003)

There is also the Giorgio Armani Bespoke line too.

Danny, Sydney


----------



## acidicboy (Feb 17, 2006)

> quote:_Originally posted by MarkusH_
> 
> A couple of additional comments on Armani's lines:
> 
> ...


----------



## MarkusH (Dec 10, 2004)

> quote:_Originally posted by Roger_
> 
> One other question: I have an Armani suit--with the designation _Le_ _Collezioni_--that I bought in the early 90s. It is a fairly high-quality suit and is not fused. It manifests really terrific lines and cut, and the fabric is also first-class. I don't think this was a diffusion line at that time. Did the quality of Collezioni garments go down hill when it went to Gruppo GFT?
> 
> Vancouver


I bought a Collezioni suit in 1997. Lines and fabric were first class, but it was definitely fused. That was a Gruppo GFT garment, though. I don't know about the the construction before then.


----------



## Rollo Tomasi (Mar 19, 2006)

Like I posted earlier, the current Collezione line has a half-canvas construction. Perhaps the partnership with Zegna produce a much better product than when it was with Gruppo GFT?

Also, in regards to the ties, the black label product is excellent. I purchased a couple when I was at Bergdorf's last fall.


----------



## NYCniceguy (Feb 15, 2006)

I've noticed that people mention Vestimenta production as a good thing. Am I confusing something here? Vestimenta suits are some of the cheapest at Century 21 downtown ($500). Is that the same Vestimenta that supposedly makes such terrific stuff for Armani?

Btw, thanks for the Hugo Boss hierarchy. My conclusion is that even though people on here like to bash both Boss and Armani, the most premium Boss product still won't touch Armani Collezione. Right?

And who wants to take a shot at the Versace hierarchy? [8D]


----------



## EL72 (May 25, 2005)

> quote:_Originally posted by NYCniceguy_
> 
> Vestimenta suits are some of the cheapest at Century 21 downtown ($500). Is that the same Vestimenta that supposedly makes such terrific stuff for Armani?


Yes, they don't have the name recognition of Armani or Boss but are far better suits. Price is not necessarily a reliable indicator of quality.


----------



## Magicman (Oct 6, 2005)

Vestimenta makes beautiful suits. I wish we had century 21 in the Portland, OR area, I'd scoop us some Vestimenta very quickly! 

As for Armani, a friend has an Armani suit purchased in Italy. I recently had a chance to take a look at it on the hangar and feel the fabric, etc... He said he paid around $800 or so for it in Italy. It had a simple black tag that said Giorgio Armani inside the jacket. I felt the lapel and it felt fused. The fabric though looked very nice, as did the cut. Is it possible that the jackets are only partially canvassed even in their main line suits?


----------



## FMINUS (Jan 9, 2006)

The black tag IS the new "bourgo 21". Some of thier new suits arent canvased. I dont know why! Maybe its the season?

Baldessarini makes some of the nicest suits out there next to Armani Black label. The drape and feel is simply amazing.

But there is something about Armani Black labels that makes you feel like you have nothing on that only they can do.


----------



## rach2jlc (Jan 18, 2005)

Probably Armani will always be the brand about which we go in circles. Not just here on AskAndy but in general as well. Much of this is simply due to size: Armani is the biggest designer in the world and has been designing for many years. So, while MOST of Collezioni suits are fused, it would be impossible to say that they've never made a canvassed suit (as Roger's canvassed Collezioni suit proves). At the same time, there are probably some fused main-line (aka "black label") suits as well.

Over the duration of collections, the items for which change by season, different ideas come and go (some good, some bad) but that nevertheless make it impossible to pigeon-hole a brand into any particular category. I find it doubtful that the design team for Collezioni says "We will never make a canvassed suit. NEVER!" They probably did for a time, or for a particular series of collections, or as they were exploring certain design ideas. 

So, the basic point of course is that each suit with which we come into contact, whether Armani or Prada or Borelli, has to be felt and given the various "tests." ESPECIALLY with Armani, whose seasonal collections are probably the largest of any designer (perhaps only 20% or less of his actual offerings end up on the runway). Aside from that, we can always only be very general.

John


----------



## DressPRMex (Jun 20, 2005)

> quote:So, while MOST of Collezioni suits are fused, it would be impossible to say that they've never made a canvassed suit


You are right. Actually, I own at least two partially canvassed Armani Collezioni suits, and I've seen some more in our local store even this season.

The only reason why I no longer buy them is because they have no vents, and I am migrating my wardrobe to dual-vented jackets only. In any case, all of my Armani pieces, whether Collezioni, the older Giorgio Armani Le Collezioni, Black Label and even Emporio Armani pieces have rendered me a very good service so far, perhaps because I take good care of them and rotate them generously.


----------



## Magicman (Oct 6, 2005)

rach2jlc-

I was surprised to see the name Borelli lumped in with the large fashion houses of Armani and Prada. I always thought Borelli was a smaller "quality" house that focused on the highest possible quality ala Brioni and Kiton. Not to go on a tangent, but I would be disappointed to find any Borelli that were not fully canvassed. Dolce and Gabanna and some of the aforementioned make Polyesther blended suits that are clearly not canvassed and get away with charging some pretty outrageous prices for these creations!


----------



## rach2jlc (Jan 18, 2005)

Magicman,

You're right, it was a typo! I was thinking of the thread (which has since been moved) where another member thought a lower-line from Barbera was fake because of the lack of quality. I intended to type Barbera but, for some reason, had Borrelli on the brain. 

So, you're right... it is incorrect to lump Borelli with Prada or Armani. mea culpa. 

John


----------



## Rollo Tomasi (Mar 19, 2006)

> quote:_Originally posted by DressPRMex_
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Executive models come with side vents. Two of the 3B Executive models I purchased at the beginning of the year came with them.


----------



## Zubberah (Sep 29, 2003)

> quote:_Originally posted by NYCniceguy_
> 
> And who wants to take a shot at the Versace hierarchy? [8D]


Do a search. been done already. 

Danny, Sydney


----------



## gmac (Aug 13, 2005)

> quote:_Originally posted by AndreMcGrath_
> 
> No one has mentioned Collezione shirts. I have three of them, and think they are pretty nice. Nice fabric, good fit. Not Borrelli, for sure, but nice just the same. And easy to pick up in the $100 to $150 range on sale or on Ebay.
> 
> Mark


Agree with that 100%. I have a couple of lovely Collezione shirts.

------------------


----------



## DressPRMex (Jun 20, 2005)

> quote:
> 
> Executive models come with side vents. Two of the 3B Executive models I purchased at the beginning of the year came with them.


Really? I have never seen an Armani jacket with side vents. I'd love to see pictures of yours... Where did you buy these Executive jackets?


----------



## Rollo Tomasi (Mar 19, 2006)

> quote:_Originally posted by DressPRMex_


Executive models come with side vents. Two of the 3B Executive models I purchased at the beginning of the year came with them.

[/quote]

Really? I have never seen an Armani jacket with side vents. I'd love to see pictures of yours... Where did you buy these Executive jackets?
[/quote]

I purchased mine from Neiman Marcus in Fashion Island (Newport Beach). The number is (949) 759-1900. Its a dark navy with a light subtle sky blue pinstripe. I also purchased a solid dark charcoal with double vents at the Saks in South Coast Plaza.


----------



## johnnyblazini (Feb 24, 2006)

> quote:Btw, thanks for the Hugo Boss hierarchy. My conclusion is that even though people on here like to bash both Boss and Armani, the most premium Boss product still won't touch Armani Collezione. Right?


I have a boss an a collezione. The Boss is GARBAGE! The Collezione has a nice cut, and it has yet to lose its shape, so you're intuition seems right to me...


----------



## DressPRMex (Jun 20, 2005)

> quote:_Originally posted by NYCniceguy_
> 
> Btw, thanks for the Hugo Boss hierarchy. My conclusion is that even though people on here like to bash both Boss and Armani, the most premium Boss product still won't touch Armani Collezione. Right?


Actually, Boss Selection suits are not that terrible, and may even be 20% more expensive than Armani Collezioni, depending on the fabric.

Check 'em out at your local 5th Av. store.


----------



## billiebob (Apr 20, 2005)

Filenes Basement a month ago had a rack of (25?) Vestimenta suits and several (7) Armani Collezioni suits. 

I tried them both on, and the Armani (800 bucks I think) felt very soft and light, hugged my waist, and generally looked great. 

The Vestimenta were much cheaper (~500), and felt boxy, with thickly padded shoulders, very Zegna-like.

There weren't any standard fabrics available in my size in the Collezioni. They were mostly black crepe or nightclub stuff, but the cuts were great. Both the Vestimenta and the Armani were fused, but with light felt.


----------

