# Pocket Square: Cotton vs. Linen vs. Silk ?



## johnnyblazini (Feb 24, 2006)

For most situations:

Are cotton squares totally unacceptable?

Are linen squares only good for white or summer?

Are silk square always appropriate (except in white)? 

Etc..?


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## Drag0n (Aug 24, 2006)

> Are cotton squares totally unacceptable?
> 
> Are linen squares only good for white or summer?
> 
> Are silk square always appropriate (except in white)?


You`ve pretty much summed up what I personally think of each type of pocket square, but I don`t think those are the mainstream rules.


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## tasteful one (Oct 6, 2006)

*I dislike the term 'unacceptable'...*

...absolutes are so arrogant sounding, and I always associate good taste with good breeding....LOL!

I can't think of a circumstance where cotton would be preferred, they seem llike hankies... a sanitary device..best kept out of sight.

Linen is always a summer thing.

Silk is always appropriate, even in white (why wouldn't it be?).


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## EL72 (May 25, 2005)

johnnyblazini said:


> For most situations:
> 
> Are cotton squares totally unacceptable?
> 
> ...


I think it's purely a matter of preference. I wear cotton, silk, linen, even wool, and all manner of blends in virtually any color or pattern at pretty much anytime (well, probably no wool in summer) depending on my mood and the outfit. I doubt there are hard and fast rules. Linen need not be only white; patterned linen are probably my favorite squares.


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## Will (Jun 15, 2004)

Hardy Amies said that a white pocket square is acceptable but only just. You have to look but it's not hard to assemble a collection of a couple dozen patterned linen handkerchiefs to wear with silk neckties. 

Linen stays placed better than cotton, but there is nothing wrong with cotton. The Duke of Windsor wore them and he could choose anything in the world.

Silk can be too dandyish in many business situations but it looks good to me next to a knit, grenadine, cashmere or other flat surfaced tie.


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## bigCat (Jun 10, 2005)

Contrast has it's place, so linen goes well with some silk ties - regardless of the season. I also prefer linen (to silk) in black tie ensamble. I don't have any in cotton (and don't plan on getting any) but I may acquire some wool pocket squares.


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## JLibourel (Jun 13, 2004)

I, for one, have a number of very nice cotton squares that I wouldn't dream of using for blowing my nose. 

Linen is perfectly suitable for year-round use. Who would have told you otherwise? I only have white linen squares, but colored linen can be very elegant.

I sometimes wear white silk pocket squares if the spirit moves me...without guilt. In all, my preference is for silken squares. Although some purists may tell you not to mate a silken square with the silken tie, the practice has never daunted me in the slightest.


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## Sator (Jan 13, 2006)

Will said:


> Hardy Amies said that a white pocket square is acceptable but only just. You have to look but it's not hard to assemble a collection of a couple dozen patterned linen handkerchiefs to wear with silk neckties.
> 
> Linen stays placed better than cotton, but there is nothing wrong with cotton. The Duke of Windsor wore them and he could choose anything in the world.
> 
> Silk can be too dandyish in many business situations but it looks good to me next to a knit, grenadine, cashmere or other flat surfaced tie.


I agree totally. Silk can sometimes seems too gaudy. Even the solid ones can seem too shiney. I too think that both linen and to a lesser extent cotton are much easier to fold and to get to sit in the shape you want it to. Silk just does whatever it wants to do.


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## johnnyblazini (Feb 24, 2006)

Sounds good. Thanks for all the replies. 

Any good sources, where I could find a variety of linen squares?


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## Will (Jun 15, 2004)

johnnyblazini said:


> Sounds good. Thanks for all the replies.
> 
> Any good sources, where I could find a variety of linen squares?


Four In Hand has some. Ben Silver usually does. Or have your shirtmaker make some up from linen shirting.


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## bigCat (Jun 10, 2005)

Sam Hober has some nice wool and cotton squares. There is a place holder for linen, they may be showing up soon.


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## johnnyblazini (Feb 24, 2006)

Will said:


> Four In Hand has some. Ben Silver usually does. Or have your shirtmaker make some up from linen shirting.


I don't think that my shirtmaker makes very many linen shirts... Will look at the other sources. Thank you.


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## rip (Jul 13, 2005)

tasteful one said:


> ...absolutes are so arrogant sounding, and I always associate good taste with good breeding....LOL!
> 
> I can't think of a circumstance where cotton would be preferred, they seem llike hankies... a sanitary device..best kept out of sight.
> 
> ...


Always is always an absolute (but you knew that, didn't you?)


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## rip (Jul 13, 2005)

If you have any deftness with needle and thread, you can make your own linen squares from last summer's linen shirts, now being highly discounted at Marshalls and TJ Maxx, many at less than the price of a cheap pocket square.


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## tasteful one (Oct 6, 2006)

*I was joking.....*



rip said:


> Always is always an absolute (but you knew that, didn't you?)


....so much for the attempt at humor...!


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## Tomasso (Aug 17, 2005)

*Tennis and Bowling.*



tasteful one said:


> I can't think of a circumstance where cotton would be preferred


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## constantmystery (Apr 18, 2006)

I try to contrast the texture of my pocket square with the fabric of the tie and most often use a cotton or linen pocket square with a shiny silk tie. I try to reflect the original purpose of the pocket square (although it's not used for that purpose) so I have no objection to cotton...tho' as mentioned here it's almost never in pure white.

I too have made my own hand rolled hemmed pocket squares out of purchased linen or patterned cotton. It's easy and not too time consuming.


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

I have cotton pocket squares that are quite nice. Just as with cotton shirtings, you can find handkerchiefs made with very high grades of fabric. There's no reason why cotton should not be used as a pocket square. And I also see no reason to limit linen pocket squares seasonally. Much handkerchief linen is quite fine.

I really like the tennis square, Tomasso.


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## DocHolliday (Apr 11, 2005)

AlanC said:


> I have cotton pocket squares that are quite nice. Just as with cotton shirtings, you can find handkerchiefs made with very high grades of fabric. There's no reason why cotton should not be used as a pocket square. And I also see no reason to limit linen pocket squares seasonally. Much handkerchief linen is quite fine.
> 
> I really like the tennis square, Tomasso.


Right on, Alan. One of my favorite squares, a vintage hank, is an extremely soft cotton with blue embroidery. I can't imagine anyone is eyeballing it with such intensity as to determine whether it is linen or cotton. A distinction that can't be determined is no distinction at all.

The problem with cotton squares is that many are cheap, and look cheap. But that's no reason to forgo them entirely.


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