# Update on Cheaney shoes



## Nick V (May 8, 2007)

I reached out to a well placed source at Cheaney's this week. I asked for an update on what's going on since the Church cousin's bought the company back.
Though I'd share the response:

*"Hi Nick*

*Everything is fine at this end. I'm currently working hard on the new website and catalogue- lots of photography going on at the moment! We are hoping to launch both in June, with e-commerce functionality (UK only at this stage). I think you will love the top end Sovereign range-oak bark soles, with fiddle waists. There are 7 styles and the materials are beautiful. The Country Collection has been extended and the rest will probably be under the Cheaney of England banner, sub-divided into City, Casual and Classic, although this is still a 'work in progress'. The City styles are all new, and are very elegant and sophisticated-I think they will be the classics of the future. There are some innovative Casual styles, as well as updates on old favourites.*

*We are also planning to open shops this year, so watch this space!*

*Kind regards*


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## lexmann (Jan 8, 2007)

Wow, I can't wait!!!


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## Pengranger (Apr 13, 2008)

I think Cheaney are really starting to go places. I picked these boots up from the factory shop recently and they caused a bit of interest on SF. I really hope they can launch with a big bang, with reasonable prices...


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## upnorth (Jun 18, 2007)

I emailed them and they didn't even bother to reply. So much for a start.


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## Nick V (May 8, 2007)

upnorth said:


> I emailed them and they didn't even bother to reply. So much for a start.


My experience with their customer service is they are amoung the best in the business. They are serious and dedicated. Based on that my guess is they did not ignore you. It's just they have a lot going on right now and may have simpley overlooked your email. It happens. You may want to give it another shot. Try contacting Sheila Bone:
[email protected]
She is excellent. Let us know.


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## kev777 (Jul 14, 2009)

I'm afraid Cheaney wont be getting any of my business any time soon !! Rang them to buy that boot with credit card in hand to be told they didnt have my size and wouldnt be making my size in that boot at all. (size 6.5). As ALL the other manufacturers make my size in virtually any style i would care to order, Cheaney can go shove that boot squarely up their a**e !! The guy that i spoke to actually seemed quite pleased to be able to fook me off!!

Would have been my first Cheaney shoe/boot purchase and was quite looking forward to it now it seems my collection will not include Cheaney.









Now wheres that AS catalogue and phone number.................


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## blaze79 (Jan 7, 2010)

kev777 said:


> I'm afraid Cheaney wont be getting any of my business any time soon !! Rang them to buy that boot with credit card in hand to be told they didnt have my size and wouldnt be making my size in that boot at all. (size 6.5). As ALL the other manufacturers make my size in virtually any style i would care to order, Cheaney can go shove that boot squarely up their a**e !! The guy that i spoke to actually seemed quite pleased to be able to fook me off!!
> 
> Would have been my first Cheaney shoe/boot purchase and was quite looking forward to it now it seems my collection will not include Cheaney.
> 
> ...


Get some normal sized feet


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## kev777 (Jul 14, 2009)

blaze79 said:


> Get some normal sized feet


Put a group of people together and theres always one :icon_headagainstwal


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## blaze79 (Jan 7, 2010)

kev777 said:


> Put a group of people together and theres always one :icon_headagainstwal


You can't take a joke?
How can you be mad that they don't carry shoes in your size?! that doesn't make any sense


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## kev777 (Jul 14, 2009)

blaze79 said:


> You can't take a joke?
> How can you be mad that they don't carry shoes in your size?! that doesn't make any sense


If you had read my post correctly you would have understood that it wasnt just the fact they dont manufacture my size in that boot it was the fact that the Cheaney representative seemed to take pride in the fact he could dismiss me with what seemed like glee !!.

I can understand how a post of more than 4 lines doesnt make any sense to you. I can also be "mad" that id like to purchase that pair of boots that just about any other manufacturer would make in what is a standard size. What i dont get is that someone can post comments in a thread that have no relevance to the thread and are purely a jibe. I do have a great sense of humour when somethings funny.

As you were................


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## blaze79 (Jan 7, 2010)

kev777 said:


> If you had read my post correctly you would have understood that it wasnt just the fact they dont manufacture my size in that boot it was the fact that the Cheaney representative seemed to take pride in the fact he could dismiss me with what seemed like glee !!.


Really?? 


> As ALL the other manufacturers make my size in virtually any style i would care to order, Cheaney can go shove that boot squarely up their a**e !!


Seems to me that you are mad that they don't make a boot in your size 
you then add:


> The guy that i spoke to actually seemed quite pleased to be able to fook me off!!


But that really doesn't seem to be the issue



> I can understand how a post of more than 4 lines doesnt make any sense to you.


How can you understand that?



> I can also be "mad" that id like to purchase that pair of boots that just about any other manufacturer would make in what is a standard size.


That I really don't understand. I can understand you would be disappointed, but from you post you seem very mad, and you suggest they can put the boot up their ass. 
That doesn't make any sense to me



> What i dont get is that someone can post comments in a thread that have no relevance to the thread and are purely a jibe


Is this your first time on a internet forum?



> I do have a great sense of humour when somethings funny


I bet you do.



> As you were................


Likewise

Seriously, why the hostility.


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## kev777 (Jul 14, 2009)

Dear me !! 

Off to talk to the grown ups...


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## blaze79 (Jan 7, 2010)

kev777 said:


> Dear me !!
> 
> Off to tell the grown ups...


FTFY...


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

I've corresponded with the Cheaney people several times over the last couple years and have always found them to be polite and helpful. Their shoes are great and as Nick has said they are one of the best deals out there. My only concern with the news in the original post is that Cheaney's new designs don't appeal to me at all and I worry the older styles will gradually disappear.


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

I don't get the impression that the new designs are going to take over or that Cheaney will change its character that much - just introduce some new designs and the new top end range whose name escapes me right now.

Of course none of us knows the future - how things will look in 5 or 10 year's time.


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## Nick V (May 8, 2007)

Leather man said:


> I don't get the impression that the new designs are going to take over or that Cheaney will change its character that much - just introduce some new designs and the new top end range whose name escapes me right now.
> 
> Of course none of us knows the future - how things will look in 5 or 10 year's time.


Here is an excerpt of an email I received from them last week:

- so far we've been getting very good reaction to the new range - we showed at Moda in the UK and Micam in Milan last month


Again, since it's the Church family at the helm, my hunch is that they will be very considerate of the traditional Church line, perhaps using their influence to restore what once was. Compare Church shoes and, the company in recent years, to that of years past. They certainly don't need the money. So what other reason would they have to take on this endeavor other than to restore the legacy that the family built over many decades?


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Nick V said:


> Again, since it's the Church family at the helm, my hunch is that they will be very considerate of the traditional Church line, perhaps using their influence to restore what once was. Compare Church shoes and, the company in recent years, to that of years past. They certainly don't need the money. So what other reason would they have to take on this endeavor other than to restore the legacy that the family built over many decades?


Didn't the Church's family almost bankrupt their own company? Which led to the PRADA buyout? If that's true, then they're like a lot of rich business owners: someone runs the company while they spend the money and get in the way. I am still taking a cautious view about this. I think this could still go bad.


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## Wayzgoose (Mar 30, 2010)

Pengranger said:


> I think Cheaney are really starting to go places. I picked these boots up from the factory shop recently and they caused a bit of interest on SF. I really hope they can launch with a big bang, with reasonable prices...


These are pretty much exactly what I'm after in a brogue boot. Fingers crossed there's something similar in the Country Collection when the site goes live.


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## velomane (Nov 6, 2009)

Wayzgoose said:


> These are pretty much exactly what I'm after in a brogue boot. Fingers crossed there's something similar in the Country Collection when the site goes live.


 And in a C width equivalent too!


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## Nick V (May 8, 2007)

Doctor Damage said:


> Didn't the Church's family almost bankrupt their own company? Which led to the PRADA buyout? If that's true, then they're like a lot of rich business owners: someone runs the company while they spend the money and get in the way. I am still taking a cautious view about this. I think this could still go bad.


I'm unaware of your this. Kindly enlighten us with some facts.


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## andy b. (Mar 18, 2010)

Wayzgoose said:


> These are pretty much exactly what I'm after in a brogue boot. Fingers crossed there's something similar in the Country Collection when the site goes live.


Me too. I wonder what the cost will be?

Andy B.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Nick V said:


> Doctor Damage said:
> 
> 
> > Didn't the Church's family almost bankrupt their own company? Which led to the PRADA buyout? If that's true, then they're like a lot of rich business owners: someone runs the company while they spend the money and get in the way. I am still taking a cautious view about this. I think this could still go bad.
> ...


Here we go, from an old thread, comments by LeatherMan:


> Essentially John Church had to sell the business if it was to go forward. They were in the doldrums in the UK and profits had all but disappeared in the 1980s. Few, if any, new models were being produced and they were resting on their laurels. Moreover Edward Weslock ( Church family friend and thus CEO of Church USA) had caused such huge problems in the States that the US operation was all but in tatters. Before his infamous disappearance he had been making shoes in Brazil and Spain ( from memory - if another country it doesn't affect the outcome) and labelling them as Church's made in England! I am told this was kept from Church's UK. So Americans took pot luck - some Church's they bought were made in England and some were not - thus the "Church's aren't good quality for the money" thinking began. Church were in a mess and could not go on as a family owned business and so needed to sell. Prada were the people who came up with the right money and who wanted to buy an iconic English brand. So, much as I lament it being Prada ( and indeed the devil does wear Prada!!) I can understand there was no other possible outcome - and thus Church's shoes were saved.


As you can see, I am still cautious about this.


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## Nick V (May 8, 2007)

Doctor Damage said:


> I don't have any facts, and I don't remember where I read that. So you can ignore it if you want. But you have to ask yourself why did Church's family sell out to PRADA? Use your contacts in the biz and find out. It should not be a secret either way.
> 
> I am still cautious about this.


It may take some time but I'll get back to you on it. Until then I'll avoid negative speculation and comments.

I have a friend that buys, sells and, produces TV programs. Years ago he sold his company. He told me "early retirement". A few years later He bought it back. He made a boat load on the transaction and was thrilled to be back in the business!


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## jamgood (Feb 8, 2006)

I frustratingly typed a relatively long post re pre-Prada Church's USA's label veracity, only to have it lost when clicking the post tab. I'll briefly summarize. Church's USA shoe origins, in various price ranges, were sufficiently identified on the shoes, whether England, USA, Italy or Spain. There was no masquerade of various sub "Church's English Shoes" or "Cheaney Royal Tweed" shoes as anything other than "Made _*For*_ Church's". My basis is the possession of about 20 pairs of vintage Church USA shoes of the various ranges as well as an archive of 1976 to 2002 Church USA publications, nutty as the latter may be. Pricing: Cheaney Royal Tweed were about 3/4 of "Church's English", Italian or Spanish "Prima Classe" were about 1/2 of "C's E" and USA made (excluding cordovan) were about 1/3 of "C's E". If a consumer was unable to discern the distinctions of the various ranges and salient labeling, was that the responsibility of Church USA?

It beggers belief that Church's HQ in Northants would be unaware of the products of the dozen or more Church USA stores as exhibited by a plethora of Church USA publications of the era, assuming no one from Northants ever visited the stores on the left bank of the pond.


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## Nick V (May 8, 2007)

jamgood......now *that* makes sense!
I'd like to add, Church is a shoe "maker" it's common that "makers" have some of their line/s made for them buy other factories. To my knowledge Church's only "makes" for themselves. However, I see it possible that they have others "make" for them. I fully believe that they have the integrity to label those shoes accordingly as you mentioned. On the other hand, I believe that Cheaney "makes" for others.

Case in point, you can walk into BB or Paul Stuart and buy shoes with their label. Neither "makes" shoes.
So, who makes them for them? Another example is Swiss watches. Their are dozens of brands that claim Made In Switzerland but are their dozens of Swiss watch makers? I think not anymore.


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## thefancyman (Apr 24, 2009)

Nick V said:


> jamgood......now *that* makes sense!
> I'd like to add, Church is a shoe "maker" it's common that "makers" have some of their line/s made for them buy other factories. To my knowledge Church's only "makes" for themselves. However, I see it possible that they have others "make" for them. I fully believe that they have the integrity to label those shoes accordingly as you mentioned. On the other hand, I believe that Cheaney "makes" for others.
> 
> Case in point, you can walk into BB or Paul Stuart and buy shoes with their label. Neither "makes" shoes.
> So, who makes them for them? Another example is Swiss watches. Their are dozens of brands that claim Made In Switzerland but are their dozens of Swiss watch makers? I think not anymore.


I always love to read Jamgoods posts. He is an expert on all things Ralph Lauren and also extremely knowledgeable about cashmere and camel hair as well. 
But this is very true that "makers" of shoes will often contract other "makers" to introduce new lines for them. The Loake L1 line is contracted out to India and Bally has shoes made in Italy. I have seen the Prima Classe Church's on eBay and they are marked accordingly. 
Also, in order to stay profitable most English shoemakers perform contract work for other companies. Alfred Sargent for Peal & Co. and Shipton & Heneage, Crockett & Jones for Peal, Ralph Lauren, GJ Cleverley and Shipton & Heneage Paris, Barker for Herrings, Loake for Herrings and Charles Tyrwhitt, Cheaney for Herrings, Edward Green for Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Grenson for Paul Stuart etc.

On a side note, the Swiss watch industry is actually quite thriving. There are 205 member manufacturers of the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry FH that all qualify under the guidelines of producing "Swiss Made" watches. Here is the list of them:

https://www.fhs.ch/en/addresses.php?list=39


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Nick V said:


> To my knowledge Church's only "makes" for themselves. However, I see it possible that they have others "make" for them. I fully believe that they have the integrity to label those shoes accordingly as you mentioned. On the other hand, I believe that Cheaney "makes" for others.


I would be willing to bet the old Church's Royal Tweed line was made by Cheaney, at least in part, since Cheaney today offers shoes that are identical in last shape and design to some of the Royal Tweed shoes. The two companies were closer in the past. For example, Dack's in Canada used to sell shoes that were made by Church's for them (alongside their Cheaney models) and Church's used to have a Canadian factory.


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## thefancyman (Apr 24, 2009)

I was looking up older threads on Cheaney shoes and it seems that in the past or possibly today they manufactured rebadged shoes for both Charles Tyrwhitt and TM Lewin. After looking at CT's premium calf range of shoes on offer at their website they look surprising like Cheaney made shoes as they use the same slanted, 1/4 rubber tip on the heel. Although, the standard Cheaney shoes don't typically feature a contrast burnished waist although this is common on the models manufactured for Herrings.


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## kev777 (Jul 14, 2009)

Nick V said:


> My experience with their customer service is they are amoung the best in the business. They are serious and dedicated. Based on that my guess is they did not ignore you. It's just they have a lot going on right now and may have simpley overlooked your email. It happens. You may want to give it another shot. Try contacting Sheila Bone:
> [email protected]
> She is excellent. Let us know.


Contacted sbone by email on the 2nd of this month with no reply whatsoever so it seems they are overlooking quite a few emails which doesnt seem very good to me !!
Not very sound business practice for a company soon to be launching a new range under new management ignoring potential "new" clients. Hey Ho...........


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## thefancyman (Apr 24, 2009)

thefancyman said:


> I was looking up older threads on Cheaney shoes and it seems that in the past or possibly today they manufactured rebadged shoes for both Charles Tyrwhitt and TM Lewin. After looking at CT's premium calf range of shoes on offer at their website they look surprising like Cheaney made shoes as they use the same slanted, 1/4 rubber tip on the heel. Although, the standard Cheaney shoes don't typically feature a contrast burnished waist although this is common on the models manufactured for Herrings.


Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I just found out that the CT premium calf range isn't made by Cheaney as my earlier suspicions had led me to believe but actually by Barker. However, the CT premium calf shoes are not made to Barker's standard specifications for quality but they are made rather on the same lasts of the up-market Barker Black range using the same channeled soles with burnished waist and slanted 1/4 rubber tip on the heels.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

UPDATE from Sheila Bone at Cheaney about upcoming plans for the company (as of yesterday):

_Thank you also for your kind comments on the 2003 last. We will be introducing five new classic styles made on this last as part of the Cheaney of England Collection, which will also be available in the wider G fitting as well as the standard F. I hope you will also enjoy other innovations, such as the top of the range Imperial Collection, which features hand painted oak bark in-channel soles with fiddle waists. We are also introducing a capsule City collection on the 11028 last and, last but not least, there are a number of additions to the Country Collection in F fitting.

The website will [be online] probably in September but I am afraid that the on-line shop will initially only be available to UK customers. However, you can, of course let me know if you wish to order anything and I will process it via our factory shop. We will send you notification about the new site.

If you ever visit the UK, you may wish to visit our new London store which will be sited in the City and which we hope will open in September.

Kind regards

Sheila Bone_


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

It might beggar belief Jamgood but it is what I was told by a Church insider. Go figure!

It is also public knowledge that the antics of Edward Weslock, the CEO of Church's America nearly bankrupted Church's shoes. I am told it was old family connections and friendship that made it difficult for the Church family to deal with Weslock.

I don't mind in the least anyone questioning what I've been told - it might be rubbish. On the other hand it may well be true and so go do your own research before trampling over mine.

I believe we can have confidence in the two Church's who have bought Cheaney and look forward to seeing a strengthening of the brand going forward. Cheaney's future certainly looks brighter and I doubt they'll be so trusting of potential people running their operations oversees - if Cheaney get that big - I suspect the Church's will keep a much closer eye on things.

On the strength of the buy out I've just bought three pairs of Herrings Premier Range shoes made by Cheaney and I am very impressed with the quality of the leather.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Cheaney will be opening a store in London, early September. Website is also scheduled for September but is not up yet. Sheila said the new catalogue was being finalized in August, but no sign of that yet either.

Soon...


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## thefancyman (Apr 24, 2009)

Doctor Damage said:


> Cheaney will be opening a store in London, early September. Website is also scheduled for September but is not up yet. Sheila said the new catalogue was being finalized in August, but no sign of that yet either.
> 
> Soon...


I believe they already have a store on New Bond Street but it's good to hear they will be opening a second store in the City to cater to the banking and business clientele rather than wealthy visitors.


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## bengal-stripe (May 10, 2003)

thefancyman said:


> I believe they already have a store on New Bond Street.......


Not anymore.

That shop stayed with Church's and has at the moment the shop fitters in. It will re-open as a Church's women store.


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## thefancyman (Apr 24, 2009)

bengal-stripe said:


> Not anymore.
> 
> That shop stayed with Church's and has at the moment the shop fitters in. It will re-open as a Church's women store.


Thanks for the info. That's too bad because it was in a convenient local near all the luxury Mayfair shopping but maybe if the City store proves successful they will open another store on Regent Street, Jermyn Street or one of the adjacent arcades.


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## velomane (Nov 6, 2009)

Pengranger said:


> I think Cheaney are really starting to go places. I picked these boots up from the factory shop recently and they caused a bit of interest on SF. I really hope they can launch with a big bang, with reasonable prices...


Are these available to North Americans? I can't seem to find them online. Anyone have a name/model number? Also, how is the fit? I have a low instep and prefer footwear that are low-volume, for lack of a better term.

Mike


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## kev777 (Jul 14, 2009)

velomane said:


> Are these available to North Americans? I can't seem to find them online. Anyone have a name/model number? Also, how is the fit? I have a low instep and prefer footwear that are low-volume, for lack of a better term.
> 
> Mike


Mike these are a factory order , the model is called FS029 they do runs of them so you need to contact the factory and stick your order in for the next run. As to delivery to the US i havent a clue, obviously ask when you contact them. Just as an aside these cost £150 ish, i got my pair couple month ago and i have to say for that sort of money its a steal. Ive had so many comments on them its unreal they are probably best value for money boots out there !!


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## velomane (Nov 6, 2009)

Thanks Kev


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## twon12 (Aug 30, 2010)

Very nice boot. How much were the pair in USD if you don't mind me asking?


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## MB1899 (Sep 2, 2010)

The new Cheaney shop opened on Tuesday this week.

The old shop on Bond street has been closed since it was handed back to Church's last December.


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## LTM (Oct 15, 2009)

They look very similar to the pair I bought from Herring Shoes earlier this year. Herring ship internationally from the UK so I would take a look at the webiste. My boots are Herring 'Langdales', made by Cheaney IIRC.


velomane said:


> Are these available to North Americans? I can't seem to find them online. Anyone have a name/model number? Also, how is the fit? I have a low instep and prefer footwear that are low-volume, for lack of a better term.
> 
> Mike


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## thefancyman (Apr 24, 2009)

I saw the most exquisite pair of Cheaneys I think I have ever seen yesterday at Harrods. They were part of their new handgrade range and retailed for £300. The shoes were a simple captoe balmoral but in a striking navy blue. Not a dark (almost black, midnight navy) but a rich, deep blue. They had a fiddle waist with contrast black and tan dye on the sole. Very impressive especially since C&J benchgrade retail for that much.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

MB1899 said:


> The new Cheaney shop opened on Tuesday this week.


I received this email from Sheila today:

_We are delighted to announce that the new Cheaney shop is now open at:

9a Lime Street
London
EC3M 7AA
Telephone: 0207 283 7485

The shop is located just off Fenchurch Street next to Leadenhall Market and is open Monday to Friday from 9.00am to 6.00pm.

Manager David Ikeji and his assistant Joshua Cook look forward to welcoming you to view an extensive selection of Cheaney footwear. This includes the superb new Imperial Collection with oak bark, in-channel hand-painted soles and fiddle waist, together with the City Collection and many classic favourites._


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

I received the Cheaney catalogue in the mail this afternoon. Included was the catalogue and a recommended retail price list. They have a bunch of new styles including seven models in the new Imperial line (the premier line), five models in the City collection (which they clearly state is the entry level line), and a couple dozen additions to the Cheaney of England and Country collections (mostly boots in the Country Collection). I think I saw one or two models I liked; the rest were unappealing or just plain ugly.

Recommended retail pricing, as follows:
Imperial Range = £275 to £350
Cheaney of England Collection = £195 to £240 (majority around £220)
Country Collection = £190 to £235
City Collection = £195


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## lexmann (Jan 8, 2007)

Doctor Damage said:


> I received the Cheaney catalogue in the mail this afternoon. Included was the catalogue and a recommended retail price list. They have a bunch of new styles including seven models in the new Imperial line (the premier line), five models in the City collection (which they clearly state is the entry level line), and a couple dozen additions to the Cheaney of England and Country collections (mostly boots in the Country Collection). I think I saw one or two models I liked; the rest were unappealing or just plain ugly.
> 
> Recommended retail pricing, as follows:
> Imperial Range = £275 to £350
> ...


Dear Doctor Damage, is it possible to show some pictures of the Imperial Range? Thanks!


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## jjl5000 (May 14, 2006)

lexmann said:


> Dear Doctor Damage, is it possible to show some pictures of the Imperial Range? Thanks!


+2...


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

I believe the new Imperial Range will have strong appeal among many shoe people, here and on StyleForum. Below are links to four of the seven Imperial Range models, plus a link to a blog showing photos from inside the Cheaney factory.

Imperial 1
Imperial 2
Imperial 3
Imperial 4

factory photos


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Some information from Sheila:


> The 2003 last equates to the Church 73 last which was developed in the 1950s, whilst the 175 last was developed by Cheaney approximately 10 years later, using different methods. I have consulted our last manufacturer who advises that the 175/F has approximately 3mm less depth and is approximately 3mm shorter in the toe area than the 2003/F. He suggests that you may wish to consider having a ½ size larger if you opt for 175/F.


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