# How should a Trench Coat Fit?



## Christophe (Oct 27, 2010)

I recently thrifted a Burberry trench coat that seems a bit big, but I'm not sure how it is supposed to fit. When I have it over a thick suit jacket, the sleeves end a couple inches into my hand, and the length goes about 3 inches below the knee, which seems good. However, when I belt it, the back of the waist pleats the fabric, and it seems like just enough to justify downsizing, but when I move around it tightens up. 

My question is, would a trench coat that fits pleat a bit in the back? I know it is supposed to give free range of motion, which I do have, but I'm not sure if it's too loose. 

Thanks for reading, any insight on the topic is much appreciated.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Christophe said:


> I recently thrifted a Burberry trench coat that seems a bit big, but I'm not sure how it is supposed to fit. When I have it over a thick suit jacket, the sleeves end a couple inches into my hand, and the length goes about 3 inches below the knee, which seems good. However, when I belt it, the back of the waist pleats the fabric, and it seems like just enough to justify downsizing, but when I move around it tightens up.
> 
> My question is, would a trench coat that fits pleat a bit in the back? I know it is supposed to give free range of motion, which I do have, but I'm not sure if it's too loose.
> 
> Thanks for reading, any insight on the topic is much appreciated.


Sounds as if it fits just about right. While some trench coats have been made in a fitted cut, the classic, the traditonal cut is very roomy. It is a straight cut coat. A purpose of the belt is to provide a waist. What else can it do but bunch any extra cloth there? That's part of its charm.


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

The quintessential trench coat is that worn by Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca (and others). Flandarian is right. By the way, if you have the all cotton version you have one of the most celebrated garments ever made.


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

Christophe said:


> [T]he sleeves end a couple inches into my hand...which seems good.


It does??? Must make it tuff when eating Little Debbies. If the coat seems big to you, and you say it does, then it probably seems that way to others, if you care about that. Overcoats of any style, any age, balloon the wearer up even when they fit properly. You're the best judge.


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## Titus_A (Jun 23, 2010)

I have one that is tagged as several sizes too big (I borrowed it out of the old man's closet some years back and it just never made its way home; he has since replaced it). It looks a bit like a balloon when I leave the belt undone, but has quite a good effect when cinched up. My impression from wearing this one and trying on others is that a trench coat should fit more or less like a suit coat would if you were the size of yourself wearing a suit. It should be roomy enough to move in, and (the exception to the previous statement) the sleeves should be a bit longer. I'm not sure they should be as long as the OP describes, though . . .


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## DavidW (May 22, 2006)

I think the sleeves of a coat, particularly a rain coat, should fully cover the sleeves of a suit or sportcoat. But a couple of inches into the hand is too much.


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## Christophe (Oct 27, 2010)

Thanks for all your replies. I think I may have misstated the sleeve length, that seems fine. It completely covers the shirtsleeves, enough that they don't ride up too high when I reach for something.


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## Christophe (Oct 27, 2010)

arkirshner said:


> The quintessential trench coat is that worn by Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca (and others). Flandarian is right. By the way, if you have the all cotton version you have one of the most celebrated garments ever made.


Arkishner, mine is not 100% cotton, it is the Burberry's 51/49 cotton/poly blend. But, it seems to me like that would be more desirable for a coat that gets so abused. Also, I thought wool gabardine was the famous fabric? Am I mistaken?


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## Christophe (Oct 27, 2010)

Titus_A said:


> I have one that is tagged as several sizes too big (I borrowed it out of the old man's closet some years back and it just never made its way home; he has since replaced it). It looks a bit like a balloon when I leave the belt undone, but has quite a good effect when cinched up. My impression from wearing this one and trying on others is that a trench coat should fit more or less like a suit coat would if you were the size of yourself wearing a suit. It should be roomy enough to move in, and (the exception to the previous statement) the sleeves should be a bit longer. I'm not sure they should be as long as the OP describes, though . . .


This is also the case with mine. It's tagged as 48S, so its 38S in American size, but it seems to fit as you describe even though I am more of a 36 or 37. Maybe the tagged size on yours is also British size.


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

Christophe said:


> Arkishner, mine is not 100% cotton, it is the Burberry's 51/49 cotton/poly blend. But, it seems to me like that would be more desirable for a coat that gets so abused. Also, I thought wool gabardine was the famous fabric? Am I mistaken?


Mine's 51/49 also. Had it for years, no signs of wear. Still if I had to do it again I'd get all cotton because the blend just doesn't get the character wrinkles. Trench coats of the Boer War period (not called trench coats then) were wool. Afterwards cotton. Bogart' was an Aquascutum Kingsway, no longer made. Aquascutum has changed hands several times but their UK website has quite a few all cotton models. No doubt worth checking out next time you are in NYC.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Christophe said:


> Thanks for all your replies. I think I may have misstated the sleeve length, that seems fine. It completely covers the shirtsleeves, enough that they don't ride up too high when I reach for something.


 I believe that's how it should fit. Trench coats are mostly about function. You can always get one of those fashionable above knee ones that are tapered quite a bit in the waist, but they don't look quite right to me.


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## Christophe (Oct 27, 2010)

arkirshner said:


> Mine's 51/49 also. Had it for years, no signs of wear. Still if I had to do it again I'd get all cotton because the blend just doesn't get the character wrinkles. Trench coats of the Boer War period (not called trench coats then) were wool. Afterwards cotton. Bogart' was an Aquascutum Kingsway, no longer made. Aquascutum has changed hands several times but their UK website has quite a few all cotton models. No doubt worth checking out next time you are in NYC.


That makes sense, with the wrinkles. That's a pretty neat fact, too, about Bogart's Aquascutum. I thought it was not a Burberry, but I never knew the model. Thanks.


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## Christophe (Oct 27, 2010)

Jovan said:


> I believe that's how it should fit. Trench coats are mostly about function. You can always get one of those fashionable above knee ones that are tapered quite a bit in the waist, but they don't look quite right to me.


Jovan, that's exactly how I feel. Those coats always look like women's models, and the short length will just mean wet knees.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

It's another one of those times when fashion conflicts with style. A man's trench coat should come to the knee, no matter what Burberry thinks. I'm afraid that if I really decide I want one, I'll have to get it made. _Sigh,_ so many clothes, so little money . . .


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Christophe said:


> That makes sense, with the wrinkles. That's a pretty neat fact, too, about Bogart's Aquascutum. I thought it was not a Burberry, but I never knew the model. Thanks.


 Bogie's Casablanca trench is a bit different from modern models. There's a replica of it here: https://www.magnoliclothiers.com/casablanca-trenchcoat-overcoats-p-422.html


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Well, now. That looks great and is much more affordable than either the Barberry or the Aquascutum. I shall have to bookmark that page.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

I haven't tried it myself. I'm not sure if it's waterproof or just for style, but I know they also sell a replica of Rorschach's trench from "Watchmen" in waxed cotton. Just found the collar and cuff style interesting and different from the norm.


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## Christophe (Oct 27, 2010)

Wow, that is neat. If my Burberry ever wears out, or I need a second, I'll definitely remember that one. Sharp looking coat.


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## MikeDT (Aug 22, 2009)

arkirshner said:


> The quintessential trench coat is that worn by Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca (and others). Flandarian is right. By the way, if you have the all cotton version you have one of the most celebrated garments ever made.


When I think of this quintessential garment...

...I always think of Columbo.


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## Christophe (Oct 27, 2010)

Isn't Columbo's coat technically a mackintosh? I've always seen it cited as a trench coat, and I've never seen the show, but all the pictures look like it's a single breasted beltless raincoat. Any Columbo fans know the answer?


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

Christophe said:


> Isn't Columbo's coat technically a mackintosh? I've always seen it cited as a trench coat, and I've never seen the show, but all the pictures look like it's a single breasted beltless raincoat. Any Columbo fans know the answer?


Per the marketers every rain coat is a trench coat

https://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCa...color=TAN&sort_by=&sectioncolor=&sectionsize=

https://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCa...color=TAN&sort_by=&sectioncolor=&sectionsize=


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## Christophe (Oct 27, 2010)

arkirshner said:


> Per the marketers every rain coat is a trench coat
> 
> https://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCa...color=TAN&sort_by=&sectioncolor=&sectionsize=
> 
> https://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCa...color=TAN&sort_by=&sectioncolor=&sectionsize=


Yeah, I've noticed that. People probably just want the name, for some reason.


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## fishertw (Jan 27, 2006)

For at least a while, around 5 or so years ago, the Aquascutum was branded the "Bogart" model. I'm still kicking myself for not buying one 5-6 years ago in Boston when the Aquascutum Shop was on Boylston street. Tried on one there and it fit perfectly, but I just waited too long and I think the shop is not closed and I 'm sure the prices have tripled.
tom


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## TweedyDon (Aug 31, 2007)

arkirshner said:


> https://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCa...color=TAN&sort_by=&sectioncolor=&sectionsize=


I defy anyone to look at this picture while imagining the chap saying "Can I look after your children...?" in a rather intense voice and not be creeped out!


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Who needs to imagine him saying anything? I'm creeped out just looking at him!


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## Bjorn (May 2, 2010)

Jovan said:


> I believe that's how it should fit. Trench coats are mostly about function. You can always get one of those fashionable above knee ones that are tapered quite a bit in the waist, but they don't look quite right to me.


There very good if one drives though, and the shorter length combined with the tapering avoids one looking like one is a member of a eastern euoropean intelligence service, or the Gestapo in 'Allo 'Allo!

("Helga you may kiss me"
"Yes Herr Flick") (although Helga von Trollop was a hot cookie)

Perhaps just below the knee is right, but perhaps not all the way down to the ankles. Generally, if a garment feels too 'full', I'd take it to a tailor and have it taken in. Generally, one should run ones finds past a tailor. Or a seamstress, which is cheaper. They generally know if an alteration will be possible and also if it's advisable.


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## pa31pilot (Jun 21, 2007)

fishertw said:


> For at least a while, around 5 or so years ago, the Aquascutum was branded the "Bogart" model. I'm still kicking myself for not buying one 5-6 years ago in Boston when the Aquascutum Shop was on Boylston street. Tried on one there and it fit perfectly, but I just waited too long and I think the shop is not closed and I 'm sure the prices have tripled.
> tom


The Bogart model differs from the standard Kingsgate trench in that it's cut very generously in the body, it's longer (mid calf length), has a broader belt and more substantial epaulettes. I had one made for me for me a few years ago after Aquascutum stopped stocking them as a standard model. It's in the 100% cotton fabric with the warm detachable lining. This is a coat for serious trenchcoat wearers only. Not for the feint hearted, it has to be worn smartly buttoned and belted to get the drape looking right. And I mean the belt should be buckled! Not tied in a knot or buckled behind the back, stuffed in the pockets or worse of all, left dangling down the sides of the coat. So unfinished looking.
How do you wear yours?


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

I had one, and did all of the above except buckle in the back, and the front. Soon realized I wasn't up to that kind of coat, and switched back to a mac.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Christophe said:


> Isn't Columbo's coat technically a mackintosh? I've always seen it cited as a trench coat, and I've never seen the show, but all the pictures look like it's a single breasted beltless raincoat. Any Columbo fans know the answer?


Not a Columbo fan, but it is indeed a mackintosh. IIRC, even Peter Falk referred to it as such when he was guest on Tavis Smiley. (Shortly before he passed away, sadly.) He revealed that it was actually an old coat of his brought in because it fit the character so well.



arkirshner said:


> Per the marketers every rain coat is a trench coat
> 
> https://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCa...color=TAN&sort_by=&sectioncolor=&sectionsize=
> 
> https://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCa...color=TAN&sort_by=&sectioncolor=&sectionsize=


IMO, the _Belted Trench Coat_ should actually be named _Single Breasted Trench Coat_. "Trench coat" is appropriate because of the details. The other one without a belt, buttoned pockets, etc. should definitely be called a mackintosh though.



Bjorn said:


> There very good if one drives though, and the shorter length combined with the tapering avoids one looking like one is a member of a eastern euoropean intelligence service, or the Gestapo in 'Allo 'Allo!


Sorry, but that reasoning is weak. What's next, Inspector Gadget jokes? :crazy:



pa31pilot said:


> The Bogart model differs from the standard Kingsgate trench in that it's cut very generously in the body, it's longer (mid calf length), has a broader belt and more substantial epaulettes. I had one made for me for me a few years ago after Aquascutum stopped stocking them as a standard model. It's in the 100% cotton fabric with the warm detachable lining. This is a coat for serious trenchcoat wearers only. Not for the feint hearted, it has to be worn smartly buttoned and belted to get the drape looking right. And I mean the belt should be buckled! Not tied in a knot or buckled behind the back, stuffed in the pockets or worse of all, left dangling down the sides of the coat. So unfinished looking.
> How do you wear yours?


 Where did you have it made?


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## Welch2ndWest (Jun 11, 2011)

One of my best thrifting scores is a 100% cotton Burberrys trench. I paid $4. Hits right below the knee, and it is fairly roomy.


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## pa31pilot (Jun 21, 2007)

Jovan said:


> Not a Columbo fan, but it is indeed a mackintosh. IIRC, even Peter Falk referred to it as such when he was guest on Tavis Smiley. (Shortly before he passed away, sadly.) He revealed that it was actually an old coat of his brought in because it fit the character so well.
> 
> IMO, the _Belted Trench Coat_ should actually be named _Single Breasted Trench Coat_. "Trench coat" is appropriate because of the details. The other one without a belt, buttoned pockets, etc. should definitely be called a mackintosh though.
> 
> ...


I ordered mine from the personal tailoring department in the Aquascutum store in Regent Street London. Cost over £800 and must have been 7 years ago.
I beleive that it has become generally accepted to call any raincoat a mackintosh. A true mackintosh has to be made of the rubberised material invented/developed by Charles Mackintosh. A raincoat made out of any other material is just that, a raincoat.


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## Christophe (Oct 27, 2010)

Thanks for all the replies. I usually belt it in the front, but sometimes I'll tie it in a hurry. I rarely tie it in the back. Speaking of the belt, the belt on mine is slightly darker than the rest of the coat. How could I fade it to match the color? It's not a very notable difference, but it can be seen. It is also a cotton/poly blend.


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

Christophe said:


> Thanks for all the replies. I usually belt it in the front, but sometimes I'll tie it in a hurry. I rarely tie it in the back. Speaking of the belt, the belt on mine is slightly darker than the rest of the coat. How could I fade it to match the color? It's not a very notable difference, but it can be seen. It is also a cotton/poly blend.


Try leaving it on the rear window sill of your car and let the sun beat down on it.


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## Bjorn (May 2, 2010)

Jovan said:


> Sorry, but that reasoning is weak. What's next, Inspector Gadget jokes? :crazy:


Since the Inspectors trench coat ends just below the knee, no.

And as for shorter coats being better for driving, Roetzel makes that assertion as well, I think. Makes sense as well...

Really long coats just look bad. I don't think they are flattering to anyone.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

We're talking about two different things then. I never said that a trench coat should hit at the ankles.


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## Bjorn (May 2, 2010)

Jovan said:


> We're talking about two different things then. I never said that a trench coat should hit at the ankles.


True! Agreed then


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## Christophe (Oct 27, 2010)

arkirshner said:


> Try leaving it on the rear window sill of your car and let the sun beat down on it.


I've tried leaving it on the deck in the sun, and it hasn't done anything after many days. I'll try it in a rear window, though, so I don't have to bring it in at night.


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