# What's the difference between pocket square and handkerchief?



## Avers (Feb 28, 2006)

What's exactly the difference between pocket square and handkerchief?

I was in a store yesterday and was going through the pocket squares. Among them there were some white and blue handkerchiefs. Some of the hankies were from cotton and some from linen-like material, as such they looked exactly like some squares, but were marked "handkerchief" of the price tag.

If they were not marked as hankies, I would never noticed the difference.

Can a hankie be worn as a pocket square?

Please provide your thoughts.


----------



## David V (Sep 19, 2005)

A handkerchief is used for wiping your nose.
A pocket square is never used that way.


----------



## lt114 (Jul 30, 2009)

David V said:


> A handkerchief is used for wiping your nose.
> A pocket square is never used that way.


That's it.


----------



## StephenRG (Apr 7, 2005)

David V said:


> A handkerchief is used for wiping your nose.
> A pocket square is never used that way.


Or as someone here once observed, "one is for blow and one is for show".


----------



## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

They are the same thing. The name is given to how you decide to use it. A handkerchief put in your breast pocket is a pocket square. A handkerchief used for blowing your nose is a handkerchief.


----------



## Mad-Men (Oct 15, 2009)

Avers said:


> What's exactly the difference between pocket square and handkerchief?
> 
> I was in a store yesterday and was going through the pocket squares. Among them there were some white and blue handkerchiefs. Some of the hankies were from cotton and some from linen-like material, as such they looked exactly like some squares, but were marked "handkerchief" of the price tag.
> 
> ...


one is for showing... and one is for blowing...


----------



## johnpark11 (Oct 19, 2009)

They are one in the same...


----------



## psionite (Nov 3, 2009)

there snot much difference


----------



## Andy (Aug 25, 2002)

Avers:

Did you read the Pocket Square Chapter in *The Encyclopedia of Men's Clothes*?:
The pocket handkerchief or pocket square, as most quality men's stores call it, is a silk, linen or cotton fabric that is usually from 13 to 18 inches square. 

Square in shape as required by a 1785 Royal French Decree. It's a fashion accessory for adding another element of style to enhance your look and it's *the only reason we have breast pockets* on our suits and sport coats. The pocket square is purely decorative. 

A handkerchief, is not a pocket square, but is something to blow your nose into. Even though Kleenex has made the handkerchief obsolete for hygienic reason, men don't carry Kleenex. So if you need a handkerchief chose a quality one of linen or cotton. It should be carried in a pocket and not for public view.​


----------



## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

However, when visiting the local men's store to purchase a pocket square vs a handkerchief, the most obvious, practical, difference between the two is a cost differential of $25 to $60, or more!


----------



## StylinLa (Feb 15, 2009)

Alright, let's get some of the real pros to weigh in here.

One of the looks I see a lot - usually on shows like Mad Men, but more and more on men in real world - is what appears to me to be a simple white handkerchief sticking up a 1/4 inch in breast pocket. Isn't that just basically a folded white handkerchief, or is it something else altogether?

When I hear the term "pocket square," I generally think of colorful, silk square that would never be confused with a handkerchief. Sometimes sold matching a tie- or often with a tie-like pattern on it.


----------



## cge (Sep 12, 2009)

StylinLa said:


> One of the looks I see a lot - usually on shows like Mad Men, but more and more on men in real world - is what appears to me to be a simple white handkerchief sticking up a 1/4 inch in breast pocket. Isn't that just basically a folded white handkerchief, or is it something else altogether?


I wear a folded white linen pocket handkerchief, yes-I hadn't realized that the style was popular elsewhere. It is just a folded white handkerchief, but pocket squares are also just folded colour handkerchiefs.

The primary difference between my pocket handkerchiefs and handkerchiefs is that more starch is used for the former.


----------



## Sean1982 (Sep 7, 2009)

I generally have a white cotton hankie in my top pocket, it can be used if needed (was yesterday to wipe a wine spillage for example). I don't use the description 'pocket square'.


----------



## BinomialSpider (Sep 4, 2009)

Note that in some countries, the handkerchief is used as a (pocket) hand towel, and not as a substitute for the "pocket tissue." Such handkerchiefs differ from pocket squares in that they are larger and often feature bolder/larger patterns (which wouldn't look good in a jacket's breast pocket). A pocket square (silk, linen, or cotton) has to be small enough to look nice in a breast pocket.


----------



## wheredidyougetthathat (Mar 26, 2006)

The terminology reflects functionality. 
A "handkerchief" is a square of fabric that can be used for various practical purposes such as soaking up wine or teardrops or what have you; it is carried primarily for that purpose, usually out of sight. Most often white, possibly with a patterned color border.
A "pocket square" is a square of fabric that is used primarily for decorative purposes; it is often made of silk or other material that would not be suitable for such practical uses. It is carried in plain sight, in the chest pocket of a jacket or overcoat. Often brightly colored and/or patterned.
It is possible for the same square of fabric to serve both purposes: for example, a white linen square could be either (or, in emergency, both).


----------



## ExecAccess (Jan 1, 2010)

BinomialSpider said:


> Note that in some countries, the handkerchief is used as a (pocket) hand towel, and not as a substitute for the "pocket tissue." Such handkerchiefs differ from pocket squares in that they are larger and often feature bolder/larger patterns (which wouldn't look good in a jacket's breast pocket). A pocket square (silk, linen, or cotton) has to be small enough to look nice in a breast pocket.


Pocket squares are also not as prevalent in some countries. Here in Australia, they are mainly used for formal occasions. Although some snappy dressers do sport them for business. And my favourite weather presenter always has one to compliment his tie.


----------



## David V (Sep 19, 2005)

StylinLa said:


> Alright, let's get some of the real pros to weigh in here.


Are you suggesting that the previous posters are some how inferior?


----------



## YoungClayB (Nov 16, 2009)

Michael Alden commented on a similar thread recently (https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?t=100886)

His theory is that "men are not to be decorated" and that any sort of cloth that is carried in the breast pocket should be functional more than decorative. He even put up a short video on dresswithstyle.com to show how he "folds" his hankies before placing them in his breast pocket.

There really does seem to be a lot of coversation on this topic lately.

Personally, I have not decided whether I am a "pocket square person" yet or not. At the moment, I am sitting back and observing the types of people that I see wearing them both locally and on television. After I observe for a while, I will make a decision on whether I want to be a part of this group or not. Keep in mind that the type of people that make up this "group" will vary from place to place.

So far the only fellow I have noticed wearing a colorful silk square was a rather pompous salesperson at a local department store. I also noticed that Desmond Howard was the only commentator wearing one during the BCS National Championship game.


----------



## theCardiffGiant (Sep 16, 2007)

This is the reason I will only wear white cotton neckties, and then only while eating spaghetti or drinking wine. Men are not to be decorated but by stains.


----------



## Avers (Feb 28, 2006)

It's great to see that my original question prompted such wonderful discussion!

Main reason for me asking - I just wanted to confirm that some handkerchiefs can be used as pocket squares.

While at the store before - I was specifically looking for simple white linen squares and they didn't carry any, all their offerings were colored silk ones. Then on my latest visit I saw white handkerchiefs that looked close to what I was searching for.

As someone noted, prices vary considerably. Silk squares were priced from $6 to $40, while white handkerchiefs were just a $1.


----------



## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

This discussion reminded me of something I've encountered with drummers. I play drums as a hobby. Some drummers will only play a cymbal based on the label it is given. They will only play time on ride cymbals and only accent on crash cymbals. I like to use cymbals however I please, because apart from a slight difference in size and weight, they are both cymbals. Handkerchiefs are the same way. If you want to use it to display, that's fine. If you want to use it blow your nose, that's great too. You can use it however you please and call it whatever you please.


----------



## Pink and Green (Jul 22, 2009)

Having worked at an old Southern department store's mens section, a good department store will immediately make clear the difference between a pocket square and handkerchief. 

If you can't possibly imagine blowing your nose into it, especially when silk, it's a pocket square.

If you feel like folding a potential snot-rag into a square and displaying your country bumpkin like style to the world, then, hey, more power to you.

My advice? Purchase a proper pocket square or leave the situation entirely. There is no "need" to have one, but if one is to do it, do it right.


----------



## cge (Sep 12, 2009)

It's likely that in stores where there is a clear distinction between handkerchiefs and pocket handkerchiefs, that distinction has arisen due to the lacklustre quality of the former rather than the superior quality of the latter. Any respectable handkerchief should, as a requirement of it being respectable, be usable as a pocket handkerchief.

Mansfield and Cunnington's _Handbook of English Costume in the 20th Century_ does seem to imply that white was the most, if not only, appropriate colour for a handkerchief in a (day) coat's breast pocket during the first and perhaps second quarter of the twentieth century.

Personally, I don't do such things with my nose as others here have described, especially in public, and so it may be my functional uses of handkerchiefs are less demanding than those of others.


----------



## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

​


Not handkerchiefs.​


----------



## cge (Sep 12, 2009)

This is just a matter of definition: I would consider those to be handkerchiefs, as would several older sources, at the very least.


----------



## CuffDaddy (Feb 26, 2009)

The semantic question is, well, semantic. I don't know that I have an opinion on when squares of fabric dedicated to display in the breast pocket became "pocket squares," but I don't think that was always the term.

If the real question, though, is whether something marketed as a handkerchief can be used as a pocket square, the answer is: Yes, with a qualification. The appearance of a pocket square is its _raison detre_; the appearance of a wipe-rag is tertiary, at best. An simple square of white cotton or linen can maintain its usefulness as a wiping article even once its appearance has deteriorated past the point where it can no longer be used as a PS.

IOW, you need to assess the appearance of a piece of cloth before you stick it in your breast pocket. If it looks OK, then it's fine, regardless of what the tag says. If you want to use a simple white cotton square, you'll want to press it under high heat to give a crisp appearance, if you're using the TV/rectangle fold. Once you've done that, pop it in the pocket, arrange it, and ignore it.


----------



## Blueboy1938 (Aug 17, 2008)

A handkerchief carried in an inside pocket is just a handkerchief. A handkerchief carried in an outer breast pocket is _functioning as_ a pocket square. It hasn't stopped being a handkerchief. You can still blow your nose into it. However, once you do that, it _immediately_ stops being a pocket square and gets put into an _inside_ pocket.

When an attorney has reduced a comely witness to tears, wouldn't it be better if he offered her the handkerchief that is functioning as his pocket square, rather than the handkerchief from his inside pocket:icon_smile_big:


----------



## Avers (Feb 28, 2006)

CuffDaddy said:


> The semantic question is, well, semantic. I don't know that I have an opinion on when squares of fabric dedicated to display in the breast pocket became "pocket squares," but I don't think that was always the term.
> 
> If the real question, though, is whether something marketed as a handkerchief can be used as a pocket square, the answer is: Yes, with a qualification. The appearance of a pocket square is its _raison detre_; the appearance of a wipe-rag is tertiary, at best. An simple square of white cotton or linen can maintain its usefulness as a wiping article even once its appearance has deteriorated past the point where it can no longer be used as a PS.
> 
> IOW, you need to assess the appearance of a piece of cloth before you stick it in your breast pocket. If it looks OK, then it's fine, regardless of what the tag says. If you want to use a simple white cotton square, you'll want to press it under high heat to give a crisp appearance, if you're using the TV/rectangle fold. Once you've done that, pop it in the pocket, arrange it, and ignore it.


I like CuffDaddy's response, it answers my question.

Most of the respondents to this tread seem to focus on the way one decides to use that square piece of white cloth. Yes it could be used to blow one's nose, it can even be used to polish one's shoes...

In the end - function is also determined by the store employee who attaches labels and add his description of the cloth. Without such labels - I highly doubt that most of us would be able to distinguish with 100% certainty between plain white cotton pocket square and handkerchief.


----------



## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Hand-rolled edge linen in breast pocket is a pocket square.

Machine stitched cotton one in back pocket is a handkerchief.


----------



## David Copeland (Apr 6, 2013)

_


Pink and Green said:



Having worked at an old Southern department store's mens section, a good department store will immediately make clear the difference between a pocket square and handkerchief.

If you can't possibly imagine blowing your nose into it, especially when silk, it's a pocket square.

If you feel like folding a potential snot-rag into a square and displaying your country bumpkin like style to the world, then, hey, more power to you.

My advice? Purchase a proper pocket square or leave the situation entirely. There is no "need" to have one, but if one is to do it, do it right.

Click to expand...

_When in the company of a lady, the first thing she does in an emergency (eyes, spills, etc - and when her own purse is indisposed) is reaches for the HANDKERCHIEF in the men's outer pocket.

Otherwise, if given time - she will politely ask if she can use the handkerchief - at which time the gentleman will pull if from his jacket pocket - avoiding digging another out from his own garments.

Watch video for recent interest:


----------



## David Copeland (Apr 6, 2013)

On the other "hand" . . .


----------



## Odradek (Sep 1, 2011)

Avers said:


> What's exactly the difference between pocket square and handkerchief?
> 
> I was in a store yesterday and was going through the pocket squares. Among them there were some white and blue handkerchiefs. Some of the hankies were from cotton and some from linen-like material, as such they looked exactly like some squares, but were marked "handkerchief" of the price tag.
> 
> ...


Reminds me of an old, work related joke. (Cinematography)
_What's the difference between a flare and a highlight? 
About $1000 a day._


----------



## Mike Petrik (Jul 5, 2005)

Blueboy1938 said:


> A handkerchief carried in an inside pocket is just a handkerchief. A handkerchief carried in an outer breast pocket is _functioning as_ a pocket square. It hasn't stopped being a handkerchief. You can still blow your nose into it. However, once you do that, it _immediately_ stops being a pocket square and gets put into an _inside_ pocket.
> 
> When an attorney has reduced a comely witness to tears, wouldn't it be better if he offered her the handkerchief that is functioning as his pocket square, rather than the handkerchief from his inside pocket:icon_smile_big:


I think this is the perfect response.
Almost 50 years ago I witnessed a young bride tearing up with emotion as she recessed down the aisle at the end of her wedding Mass. The gent in the pew in front of me casually pulled out his pocket square and gracefully handed it to her as she passed. Even as an 8 year old boy, I thought that was both cool and gallant.


----------

