# MY NEW NORFOLK JACKET



## uman (Jun 1, 2009)

I just received my new bespoke Norfolk Jacket from Henry Poole, the fathers of Savile Row. It was a rewarding experience, as I had the privilege of being attended to and fitted by Philip G. Parker, their Managing Director.
I wanted it to be in the most classic of styles, the one developed for shooting in the English countryside, down to the smallest fastidious detail, so we went through their archive of old illustrations until we were satisfied that tradition was respected. A lot of different variations of the Norfolk had been developed over the decades for use in golfing or for weekend attire at Palm Beach or the Hamptons.
The choice of fabric was easier: a vintage heavy tweed, capable of resisting a bit of rain and nasty thorns, with warm fall colours with a dark red overcheck. The search for vintage buttons, in hunting theme, led me to the famous little shop: Button Queen (19 Marylebone Lane), where I found these late 1800' silver buttons and their smaller version for the cuff (two on each sleeve).
I made sure to do my three fittings always at the same hour (around 3 PM) after a good meal at my favourite West End restaurant, Greens, so that I will have a little bit of room for expansion, and I could wear it also during the after-hunt feasts.
It is a long-due addition to my hunting wardrobe, and I plan to use it this Fall for pheasant hunting in Tuscany, coupled with a pair of corduroy knickers or heavy twill plus fours.


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## Penang Lawyer (May 27, 2008)

Perfect. Enjoy. Look at the way all the lines match.


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## robb01 (Oct 27, 2008)

Looks very nice


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## 3holic (Mar 6, 2008)

Penang Lawyer said:


> Perfect. Enjoy. Look at the way all the lines match.


Perhaps it is the lighting, but on the back of the jacket, it seems that the pattern on the left is not a mirror image of the pattern on the right (look carefully at the vertical burgundy stripes)


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Wow...I will tell you what I really think of your new Norfolk, once I have been able to quit drooling on my keyboard!  That is a seriously handsome jacket.


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## nicksull (Sep 1, 2005)

Very good! Like the buttons very much. 
Perhaps you will post picture of you wearing it after a days shooting...


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## Ay329 (Sep 22, 2007)

John G. Hardy has a nice 22oz Rust colored Corduroy fabric to commission for a bespoke trouser that would go great with this jacket

Or a bit heavier 25oz Corduroy offering from Porter & Harding:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/britishcloth/sets/72157621259157432/

This is an excellent styled jacket

Just curious, you are in Rome?? Did you consider any of the local tailors...Caraceni for example to make this jacket or did you feel only a Savile Row tailor like Henry Poole would be able to make you such a distinctly British design?


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

That is a very beautiful jacket in every detail. The fabric couldn't be more handsome, or compliment the lines of the jacket better. Wonderfully made. I expect to see horn buttons on it, but I think that's just my eye, as the ones you've chosen are miniature works of art and splendidly compliment the entire design. I wish you many happy years with it.


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## 16412 (Apr 1, 2005)

uman, T'is a lovely jacket. It is nice to see people getting unique jackets, vest, trousers and shirts. Thanks for showing.



3holic said:


> Perhaps it is the lighting, but on the back of the jacket, it seems that the pattern on the left is not a mirror image of the pattern on the right (look carefully at the vertical burgundy stripes)


I believe the pleats open for freedom of movement and what you are seeing is one of the pleats is opened a little. Some norfolks have straps sewn on. Either way is nice, and both are correct. Another consideration- I would be more interest in fit than mirror image in custom as the body is usually different on one side of the body than the other for most people.


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## LilacCords (Apr 28, 2009)

Lovely, lovely jacket.


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## aspectator (Aug 27, 2008)

Wow, that is one beautiful jacket. The buttons are a perfect finishing touch. Please do post some photos of you out in the field.


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## smujd (Mar 18, 2008)

Very nice. Now, all you need to commission is a brace of sidelocks.


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## JibranK (May 28, 2007)

Beautiful jacket. Now let's hope that this thread starts a trend on AAAC back toward traditional, good-quality wares and away from JAB.


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## rgrossicone (Jan 27, 2008)

Beautiful...this is why I love this site, while I knew what a Norfolk jacket was, you put it in such context...wear it in good health/


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## GBR (Aug 10, 2005)

3holic said:


> Perhaps it is the lighting, but on the back of the jacket, it seems that the pattern on the left is not a mirror image of the pattern on the right (look carefully at the vertical burgundy stripes)


I think that there is an effect from the light but surely the prime issue is that any changes to suit the body of the wearer can affect this slightly particularly any asymmetry.

It is a seriously good coat which will give the OP many years of pleasure and we should not detract from that.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

3holic said:


> Perhaps it is the lighting, but on the back of the jacket, it seems that the pattern on the left is not a mirror image of the pattern on the right (look carefully at the vertical burgundy stripes)


that's because it was cut perfectly to accommodate his right low shoulder.
it was done very cleanly.


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## shoemaker (Apr 2, 2008)

Thas a goodun bor!!


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## Simon Myerson (Nov 8, 2007)

Lovely.

Enjoyed A Tailor's comment - a professional eye is a wonderful thing to share.


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## KCKclassic (Jul 27, 2009)

Enjoy the hunting season and that wonderful jacket. Gotta agree some pics of it "in action" would be appreciated as well.


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## mafoofan (May 16, 2005)

It looks very nice, but I can't tell how well it was cut for you without seeing it worn.


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## Sator (Jan 13, 2006)

WA said:


> I believe the pleats open for freedom of movement and what you are seeing is one of the pleats is opened a little. Some norfolks have straps sewn on. Either way is nice, and both are correct.


The vertical straps often also conceal the seams of a panel-jacket type of construction that allows the cutter to make the coat fit closer to the body.


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## 3holic (Mar 6, 2008)

mafoofan said:


> It looks very nice, but I can't tell how well it was cut for you without seeing it worn.


I second that. It is quite incredible that you have a physique like that of a mannequin's -- if only we are all so lucky.

BTW, I noticed that the wording indicates that the mannequin is from a tailor in New York. Since you are from Rome, how did you manage to obtain it?

Please do post some pictures, preferably with some unlucky pheasants :icon_smile_big:


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## S.Thete (Jun 23, 2009)

_That_ is a magnificent thing.


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## Cardcaptor Charlie (Jul 7, 2008)

Oh, I want!



3holic said:


> Perhaps it is the lighting, but on the back of the jacket, it seems that the pattern on the left is not a mirror image of the pattern on the right (look carefully at the vertical burgundy stripes)


Really? It looks perfectly matched to me looking closely at the seems against the pattern left and right.


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## C. Sharp (Dec 18, 2008)

Uman,
Please consider joining and posting on the Bespoke forum.


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## pkprd869 (Jul 7, 2009)

That is a gorgeous Norfolk jacket. I hope you get may years of enjoyment and please post some pics when you're wearing it on your pheasant hunt.


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## Cruiser (Jul 21, 2006)

uman said:


>


I have limited knowledge of different styles of jackets; however, as soon as I saw this jacket it reminded me of one of the service dress uniforms I wore when I was in the military. I lost the belt many years ago, but when I visualize it as still being there it is obvious to me that this uniform jacket is of the same style as the Norfolk.










So now I'm wondering, which came first? Was it the uniform or the civilian jacket?

Cruiser


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## Portly_polar_bear (Oct 15, 2008)

Cruiser said:


> So now I'm wondering, which came first? Was it the uniform or the civilian jacket?


Or even a case of convergent evolution? They're both designed with mobility and practicality in mind, after all.


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## comrade (May 26, 2005)

uman said:


> I just received my new bespoke Norfolk Jacket from Henry Poole, the fathers of Savile Row. It was a rewarding experience, as I had the privilege of being attended to and fitted by Philip G. Parker, their Managing Director.
> I wanted it to be in the most classic of styles, the one developed for shooting in the English countryside, down to the smallest fastidious detail, so we went through their archive of old illustrations until we were satisfied that tradition was respected. A lot of different variations of the Norfolk had been developed over the decades for use in golfing or for weekend attire at Palm Beach or the Hamptons.
> The choice of fabric was easier: a vintage heavy tweed, capable of resisting a bit of rain and nasty thorns, with warm fall colours with a dark red overcheck. The search for vintage buttons, in hunting theme, led me to the famous little shop: Button Queen (19 Marylebone Lane), where I found these late 1800' silver buttons and their smaller version for the cuff (two on each sleeve).
> I made sure to do my three fittings always at the same hour (around 3 PM) after a good meal at my favourite West End restaurant, Greens, so that I will have a little bit of room for expansion, and I could wear it also during the after-hunt feasts.
> It is a long-due addition to my hunting wardrobe, and I plan to use it this Fall for pheasant hunting in Tuscany, coupled with a pair of corduroy knickers or heavy twill plus fours.


Sweet.
It speaks to your excellent taste not to have chosen a version
with double breast pockets and the vertical "belts" which
go down the front (and back). Very clean and uncluttered.
Wthout the belt, it would be an elegant sport coat.
The shoulders appear very natural. Am I correct?


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## archduke (Nov 21, 2003)

In what circumstances will you be wearing this? Assuming the obvious of hunting and greeting peasants on you estate?


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## jamgood (Feb 8, 2006)

Handsome Jacket.

Not to be impertinent, but would reflective buttons spook some game, such as the wiley peasant?



comrade said:


> Sweet.
> It speaks to your excellent taste not to have chosen a version with.......the vertical "belts" which go down the front (and back)...... Am I correct?


(Ma Foofan tops 1000!......oh.....)


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## 3holic (Mar 6, 2008)

jamgood said:


> Not to be impertinent, but would reflective buttons spook some game, such as the wiley *peasant*?


I certainly hope the OP is not contemplating perpetration of The Most Dangerous Game


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## Orsini (Apr 24, 2007)

This really does look marvelous!


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## amplifiedheat (Jun 9, 2008)

Cruiser said:


> I have limited knowledge of different styles of jackets; however, as soon as I saw this jacket it reminded me of one of the service dress uniforms I wore when I was in the military. I lost the belt many years ago, but when I visualize it as still being there it is obvious to me that this uniform jacket is of the same style as the Norfolk.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


If Wikipedia is correct, the Norfolk jacket was popularized in the 1860s by Edward VII while Prince of Wales. (You know, while he was popularizing the tuxedo.)

The definitive characteristic of the Norfolk jacket is actually the shoulder, which allows one to shoot more easily at grouse or pheasants or whatever it is one shoots in such things. However, the cut of the Norfolk is rather militaristic, what with the belt and the high buttoning point.

Of course, we shouldn't be surprised to see this kind of thing. When one speaks of the "uniform" of blue blazer, khakis, and striped tie, each piece derives from a literal uniform.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Weren't Norfolk jackets also popular for city wear in the early '20s? I recall seeing a catalogue scan that had lots of them from, I believe, 1921.

I'd really like to see the jacket's belt fastened...


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## 16412 (Apr 1, 2005)

If I remember correctly the Norfolk was first made as a boys jacket. The lord fauntleroy Jacket came first and was very popular. Another boys jacket came to at about the same time, don't remember the name. Before that boys wore the same clothes as men. As history shows it became a very popular coat worn for biking, hunting, etc. 

I guess the boys never grew up, because they wore them till they died. With bespoke becoming popular again we are starting to see some slendid coats of the past.


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## TweedyDon (Aug 31, 2007)

Beautiful!! Thank you for sharing it with us! :icon_smile_big:


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## Sator (Jan 13, 2006)

The Cunningtons say that it was an adaptation of the Norfolk shirt. It was called a jacket from the 1880s onwards. My understanding is that it was originally a hunting jacket. It was also worn for other sporting activities including cycling. 

Military uniforms were commonly adaptations of civilian sporting styles. It makes sense for a soldier to wear a hunting jacket.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Thom Browne had some rather hit-or-miss takes on the Norfolk a couple years ago.

https://men.style.com/fashion/collections/F2007MEN/review/TBMEN


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## Sator (Jan 13, 2006)

I don't think I'd call that a Norfolk jacket. I never seen concealed buttonholes like that. Nor is there anything about the front panels that distinguishes itself as a Norfolk. An odd belted front does not a Norfolk make.


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## uman (Jun 1, 2009)

Dear all, it is quite rewarding to get unanimous approval of the looks of my investment by such a knowledgeable and attentive audience. I will now respond to some specific questions or comments.

BALANCE (*3holic*, *GBR*, *a tailor*, *mafoofan*): I doo have indeed a lower right shoulder (approx. 1 cm.) which may account for the slight asymmetry.

FIT: I am not an athlete but a good British tailor does exactly that: enhance your silhouette and smooth physical defects (*3holic*, *WA*), and I will post pictures of the outfit in its field context this fall (*nicksull*, *aspectator*, *KCKclassic*) ; Italians are fussy about their looks also on the shooting scene, but we really don't have a typical Italian outdoor/shooting iconic style, like the Austrians, the Spanish or the British, so we tend to mix a bit.

ITALIAN TAILORS (*Ay329*): and I use Italian tailoring (MTM or bespoke) for the lounge suit, I have a three-piece from Caraceni in Rome (Tommy & Giulio), but regarding iconic styles from other cultures, I prefer to use top local tailors: they know best, and the garment has the right "soul". Therefore, for example, to get an after-hunt formal tyrol suit I went to Knize in Vienna, and for the teba jackets to SantEulalia in Barcellona.

BUTTONS (*Flanderian*): my initial idea was to have horn buttons too, but it would have been too easy, and then I saw those antique ones and I fell in love; besides, I think mixing metal and fabric adds to the level of "formality" (think about the military uniforms), also in the context of outerwear (think about the blazer).

CORDUROY (*Ay329*): this is excellent information, thank you very much.

BESPOKE FORUM (*C. Sharp*): I would definitely like to join, thank you for suggesting it, but I am still learning how to fly in the ampler forum.


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## BarringtonAyre (Nov 9, 2008)

A quite beautiful jacket, and I absolutely love those buttons. Where did you get them from?


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## JibranK (May 28, 2007)

BarringtonAyre said:


> A quite beautiful jacket, and I absolutely love those buttons. Where did you get them from?


He got them from Button Queen.


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## uman (Jun 1, 2009)

*Archduke*: _In what circumstances will you be wearing this? Assuming the obvious of hunting and greeting peasants on you estate?_

Unfortunately not, I am only a member of a couple of estates near Rome, where pheasant and boar hunting takes place form October until January, normally only once a month. Occasionally I am invited to boar hunts in Germany or France, where I would wear something more culturally appropriate. Normally after the hunt there is a formal lunch, and once a year (normally for the closing of the season) a gala dinner for the hunters. For the winter months, when it gest cold or wet, one wears less elegant clothing for the actual hunt and then change for the lunch.

*Jamgood*: _Not to be impertinent, but would reflective buttons spook some game, such as the wiley peasant?_

Good question, but actually these types of hunts are _driven_: i.e. the hunter stays in a stand or in a field and the beaters push them towards him. Therfore it's a rather static situation.


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## Leon (Apr 16, 2005)

uman said:


> and for the teba jackets to SantEulalia in Barcellona.


And not Bel?

I'd like to see the Santa Eulalia version.

Leon


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## dzang (Aug 13, 2009)

WoW beautiful


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## archduke (Nov 21, 2003)

uman

Is Poole you regular tailor? How did you come to chose them?


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## uman (Jun 1, 2009)

*Leon*: I know that Bel is the most famous for tebas, but a friend of mine made one that seemed quite ordinary to me, and I also wanted to make my jackets in a better quality fabric than just simple wool jersey, for a more diverse use than just the after-hunt. So I went to Santa Eulalia and had them made in a wool/cachemere blend in two colours: the classic dark green and another one in blue (I was tempted by a burgundy too) for the winter, and then also in a basket-weave, sand colour, wool, for the summer. I am on holiday right now, but when I return home I will post a picture of them. 

*Archduke*: In fact this was the first item that Henry Poole made for me; I understand that they are quite good at safari jackets, given the British colonial past, and this is something I would like to try in the fall.


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## hockeyinsider (May 8, 2006)

uman said:


> I just received my new bespoke Norfolk Jacket from Henry Poole, the fathers of Savile Row. It was a rewarding experience, as I had the privilege of being attended to and fitted by Philip G. Parker, their Managing Director.
> I wanted it to be in the most classic of styles, the one developed for shooting in the English countryside, down to the smallest fastidious detail, so we went through their archive of old illustrations until we were satisfied that tradition was respected. A lot of different variations of the Norfolk had been developed over the decades for use in golfing or for weekend attire at Palm Beach or the Hamptons.
> The choice of fabric was easier: a vintage heavy tweed, capable of resisting a bit of rain and nasty thorns, with warm fall colours with a dark red overcheck. The search for vintage buttons, in hunting theme, led me to the famous little shop: Button Queen (19 Marylebone Lane), where I found these late 1800' silver buttons and their smaller version for the cuff (two on each sleeve).
> I made sure to do my three fittings always at the same hour (around 3 PM) after a good meal at my favourite West End restaurant, Greens, so that I will have a little bit of room for expansion, and I could wear it also during the after-hunt feasts.
> It is a long-due addition to my hunting wardrobe, and I plan to use it this Fall for pheasant hunting in Tuscany, coupled with a pair of corduroy knickers or heavy twill plus fours.


Outstanding. Do you have any pictures of you in it or the total outfit?

And if you don't mind me asking, sir, how much was it?


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## uman (Jun 1, 2009)

To *Hockeyinsider*: I paid 2,000 pounds for it, the buttons were around 50 pounds


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

I know it's comparing apples to oranges (mail order vs. bespoke) but it would be nice if Bookster offered Norfolk jackets.


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## Cardcaptor Charlie (Jul 7, 2008)

They do!


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Oh. :icon_smile_big:


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## shoemaker (Apr 2, 2008)

Thas a nuther good un bor!!


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## THORVALD (Jan 30, 2007)

*NICE Hunt Jacket*




























I like the pattern you selected. Are the buttons vintage regimentals? IMO for my taste they would stand out too much, but those can always be replaced. Enjoy your jacket! Thorvald :icon_smile_big:


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## Preu Pummel (Feb 5, 2008)

Cardcaptor Charlie said:


> They do!


Mine's coming in a week or two I was told. Just in time for the cold weather here in the north central plains.


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## Artisan Fan (Jul 21, 2006)

Very nice looking jacket.


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## hockeyinsider (May 8, 2006)

uman said:


> To *Hockeyinsider*: I paid 2,000 pounds for it, the buttons were around 50 pounds


That's a little too expensive for me. I hope it's worth the money.


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## uman (Jun 1, 2009)

*just before the hunt*

For those of you who asked to see the Norfolk jacket in field use, here it is: the location is Mazzano (40 km North of Rome), just before a boar hunt, this very morning (temp. was 15° C); the shoes are from Holland & Holland, the plus-fours were MTM by Caruso.


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## newtrane (May 4, 2006)

I am impressed. Thank you for posting the pics.


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## Holdfast (Oct 30, 2005)

uman said:


> For those of you who asked to see the Norfolk jacket in field use, here it is: the location is Mazzano (40 km North of Rome), just before a boar hunt, this very morning (temp. was 15° C); the shoes are from Holland & Holland, the plus-fours were MTM by Caruso.


The fit on the jacket looks excellent. I hope the hunt went equally well.


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## Srynerson (Aug 26, 2005)

uman said:


> For those of you who asked to see the Norfolk jacket in field use, here it is: the location is Mazzano (40 km North of Rome), just before a boar hunt, this very morning (temp. was 15° C); the shoes are from Holland & Holland, the plus-fours were MTM by Caruso.


Looking good, uman! :aportnoy:


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## Mr. Tweed (Apr 9, 2009)

Dear uman,
Exquisite indeed. And a perfect fit. I must say I really like the continental details of this classic Norfolk outfit: Silver buttons, loden colour plus fours and the hat you are holding. I cannot think of a more proper style for hunting boars in Italy!
Respectfully yours,
Mr. Tweed


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## nicksull (Sep 1, 2005)

Srynerson said:


> Looking good, uman! :aportnoy:


Elegantissimo Umberto!!


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

To the U man:

Your picture above, this to me is unfathomably superb. While the previous comments have all been very favorable, they just aren't favorable enough. Nor is this one. I'm not normally a gusher, but I'm doing it here without reservation.

You see, when I first saw your coat, unadorned without you inside it, I thought, man, that is one swell piece of clothing. But I was fearing the live action shot because I've seen museum pieces of Churchill's exquisite stuff and then I've seen, ah, snaps of Churchill in them. This is not the case here. This is about as good as it can possibly get. (And for a little fuller disclosure, I'm intrigued even more because you look similar to me, 15 years ago; the major difference being that you're the guy in the $4,000 bespoke Norfolk while I'm still the one in the eBay Polo.)

Fine show, wear it forever.

P&P​


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## 3holic (Mar 6, 2008)

Bravo! Uman


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## uman (Jun 1, 2009)

*thank you*

Thank you all for the nice comments, but a special thanks to Peak & Pine, I Have never received such warm and articulated compliments before. 
For your information, I was again at Henry Poole's last Wednesday and they told me that the jacket was actually finished by a senior tailor called Alec Stanley who is from Norfolk, and this made the aura surrounding the jacket even more fascinating. I have invested quite a bit in my hunting wardrobe with a variety of styles, some bespoke, some MTM, some RTW that I found especially intriguing. Recently one of my friends showed me an après-hunt DB velvet jacket that had been made for his gradfather by an Italian tailor long gone: it seemed like a Maremman interpretation of the English smoking jacket but for daytime use, as it was in dark brown, with no froggings and antique gold buttons. I've had it reproduced and know it's the official formal attire of my hunting club. 
I do not have any hunting style that originate from North America and should investigate it.


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## hockeyinsider (May 8, 2006)

uman said:


> For those of you who asked to see the Norfolk jacket in field use, here it is: the location is Mazzano (40 km North of Rome), just before a boar hunt, this very morning (temp. was 15° C); the shoes are from Holland & Holland, the plus-fours were MTM by Caruso.


Do you have a full size version of that photograph? I'd love to zoom in and see the outfit.


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## DCLawyer68 (Jun 1, 2009)

Lovely! 

Having something bespoke from one of Winston Churchill's tailors must have been a very rewarding experience.

I'm also a big fan of those socks - may I ask where they're from???


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## Henry346 (Oct 31, 2009)

My lord, Teddy Roosevelt should have taken his hunting dress lessons from you. This is truly superb.


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## rsmeyer (May 14, 2006)

JibranK said:


> Beautiful jacket. Now let's hope that this thread starts a trend on AAAC back toward traditional, good-quality wares and away from JAB.


Absolutely-this will NOT go well with jeans, a t-shirt and sneakers! A very lovely piece of work-and very individual. Wear it in good health.


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## hockeyinsider (May 8, 2006)

rsmeyer said:


> Absolutely-this will NOT go well with jeans, a t-shirt and sneakers! A very lovely piece of work-and very individual. Wear it in good health.


I think you might be able to match it with the right pair of jeans and old-school canvas sneakers.


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## rsmeyer (May 14, 2006)

hockeyinsider said:


> I think you might be able to match it with the right pair of jeans and old-school canvas sneakers.


And an AC/DC t-shirt, too. And a few good tattoos and piercings.


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## TheGuyIsBack (Nov 6, 2008)

Bravo


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

As we all know, every single person who has tattoos or piercings must be depraved in some way.


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## rsmeyer (May 14, 2006)

Jovan said:


> As we all know, every single person who has tattoos or piercings must be depraved in some way.


Yes-if they wear a Norfolk jacket with that getup. Stick to your jeans and t-shirts.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

I apologise, but it just seems like whenever there's a mention of tattoos or piercings on any clothing forum (besides Style Forum), people get uppity about how "stupid" they look and imply that those people are somehow morally empty. Maybe that wasn't your intent, but it almost seemed like it.


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## rsmeyer (May 14, 2006)

Jovan said:


> I apologise, but it just seems like whenever there's a mention of tattoos or piercings on any clothing forum (besides Style Forum), people get uppity about how "stupid" they look and imply that those people are somehow morally empty. Maybe that wasn't your intent, but it almost seemed like it.


Don't apologize-I was talking about appearence only-although I do find piercings and non-subtle tattoos repugnant.


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## uman (Jun 1, 2009)

*replies*

Sorry for not answering sooner but I was travelling all week.

to: *DCLawyer68* - the argyle socks are from Ladage & Oelke in Hamburg (https://www.ladage-oelke.de/) and they are private label from the store; this store is huge, very old and quite interesting for fans of classic English country/outdoor styles.

To: *Hockeyinsider* - unfortunately I am not very good at this, but you can find the original pictures at https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/


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