# When to wear twill or herringbone



## sam_asks (Jul 10, 2009)

I would like some guidance on different weaves and when to wear them. For instance, twill and herringbone. I understand the difference but would like to know when to wear one as opposed to another. Do certain weaves go with certain types of wardrobes? Also, what if any effect do the various weaves give? The information I have been able to find on the web so far still has me wondering.


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## pt4u67 (Apr 27, 2006)

For me, I've always thought of those as Fall/Winter weaves. Too much texture for the Summers.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

sam_asks said:


> I would like some guidance on different weaves and when to wear them. For instance, twill and herringbone. I understand the difference but would like to know when to wear one as opposed to another. Do certain weaves go with certain types of wardrobes? Also, what if any effect do the various weaves give? The information I have been able to find on the web so far still has me wondering.


As has been said, the cooler seasons are often most appropriate. Your question is very reasonable but you might wish to refine it just a bit. The terms twill and herringbone are very broad, and while you might know exactly what you mean, I'm not entirely sure. Twill in particular embraces a huge range of fabrics. And while herringbone may not be as broad, there are many types as well.

Several common wool twills are gabardine, serge, cavalry twill and covert twill. The first can be either country or town in the spring, and can be vary from a fairly heavy and warm weight to what is almost tropical. The Second is a town fabric for cooler weather, not as popular as it once was. The later two are really country fabrics. And while they are mainly cooler weather cloths, I've seen lighter weights of almost all that could pass in the summer, sometimes of cotton or linen.

Herringbone while perhaps best know as a country tweed, can be woven in different scales with many different finishes, so that depending on the refinement of the cloth it can either be rustic country wear or rather refined town wear. Similarly, it can be a heavy tweed suitable only for cold weather in the country, or a lightweight blend of silk, wool and linen, such as a shirt jacket I have, that's good for warm weather casual wear in town.


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## sam_asks (Jul 10, 2009)

I guess my question is more general than I first phrased it. In short, is it OK to wear different weaves simply for different effect? So, in other words, would I be able to wear a broadcloth dress shirt one day and a twill the next? Can I mix them with different jackets for a different effect, or is it more governed by seasons? If I am too far afield with my questions(as I am new to these fashion considerations), perhaps you could direct me toward a write-up on the topic. Thanks in advance.


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## cpac (Mar 25, 2005)

sam_asks said:


> I guess my question is more general than I first phrased it. In short, is it OK to wear different weaves simply for different effect? So, in other words, would I be able to wear a broadcloth dress shirt one day and a twill the next? Can I mix them with different jackets for a different effect, or is it more governed by seasons? If I am too far afield with my questions(as I am new to these fashion considerations), perhaps you could direct me toward a write-up on the topic. Thanks in advance.


You're fine. Your question is simply at a level of detail uncontemplated by anyone who is truly stylish. How you dress is completely up to you and the "rules" on this site really only help with identifying the outer limits of the acceptable in certain situations. Wondering about the acceptability of wearing twill and broadcloth one day after the other is an indication you're thinking too much.


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## Got Shell? (Jul 30, 2008)

The weight of the cloth matters more than the pattern. Herringbone can be heavy for cold weather, or light for warm weather, as was said. I have a herringbone sportcoat that is partially lined, so obviously meant for warm weather. I think everyone enjoys mixing up their look, I doubt most people wear only one kind of weave each day of the week.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

cpac said:


> You're fine. Your question is simply at a level of detail uncontemplated by anyone who is truly stylish. How you dress is completely up to you and the "rules" on this site really only help with identifying the outer limits of the acceptable in certain situations. Wondering about the acceptability of wearing twill and broadcloth one day after the other is an indication you're thinking too much.


Very true, trial and error are how we learn and how we train our eye. And it should be fun. Other than putting ourselves in the hands of a butler or haberdasher we can trust, (Now both very rare items.) I know of no simple way to dress well. I sense the OP is looking for *the* thread, or *the* website, or *the* book that has all the rules. Over the last 50+ years, I've read many of the books, and more recently the websites, and what I've learned is that while each will add knowledge, they will all ultimately conflict in some details. There is no substitute for experience and time while constantly seeking to add to our knowledge.

I think it's fine to wear either a refined twill or a broadcloth shirt with a suit and tie, if that's the only question. Pinpoint oxford is more refined and formal with a suit the plain oxford, though many also enjoy wearing plain oxford as well.


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