# Breton Stripe Shirt - Yes/No? How to Wear?



## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

Spring is hear, I have a beach trip to Carmel next weekend. Which brings my mind to nautical / beach wear.

I don't own, and never have owned, a breton stripe shirt.

A wardrobe essential? Or a cliched artifact for tourists?

And how should one wear it?


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## Tempest (Aug 16, 2012)

Around water, it makes perfect sense as a casual coverup. I'd wear it like a t-shirt, untucked. I think I'd prefer even stripes to the varying width engineered pattern.
Google telnyashka and you can get military ones very cheap.


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## Duvel (Mar 16, 2014)

I've tried wearing this and it doesn't work for me. I feel, and look, silly. Doesn't mean it can't work for others but I don't feel confident in it.


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

Tempest said:


> Around water, it makes perfect sense as a casual coverup.


Do you wear a shirt underneath it?


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## leisureclass (Jan 31, 2011)

I have both a t-shirt and sweater (from St. James) purchased while abroad. I almost never wear the sweater and have really only found one successful way of wearing the t-shirt, it's as follows:

Take a pair of really plain shorts (khaki, dark green, maybe even navy blue but I've never tried that) and pair them with the breton stripe shirt worn as an undershirt, and an old blue o.c.b.d. with the sleeves rolled. The key element though is to wear the o.c.b.d. with at least 2, if not 3, of the top buttons undone.


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## ajasont (Mar 25, 2014)

I feel like I could really only wear this with some kind of a jacket or coat on top while also not being 100% comfortable with removing said jacket or coat.


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## Duvel (Mar 16, 2014)

When I tried it, alone, without a layer, I felt like I was wearing a pajama top.


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## Tempest (Aug 16, 2012)

The idea of knockaround stuff seems really alienating to several here. This is a practical garment to keep a bit of sun and wind off the wearer. If you can't toss something on nonchalantly as a coverup, then I guess this is not for you.
When I'm in a vacation mindset, comfort and ease are on the mind. If anything, this is a bit more studied than a t-shirt. 
I guess if you're cold you could wear something over or under it, but that never occurred to me. Layering above it seems a bit too Euro naval.
Were I not awash in casual tops that rarely get worn already, I'd absolutely get one of these, in blue.
https://russian-crafts.com/telnyashka/telnyashka-vdv-blue.html


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## vpkozel (May 2, 2014)

I had one and wore the heck out of it. I like horizontal stripes and have quite a few tees and long sleeve tees of various weights and stripe sizes that I wear a lot now.

Not sure what the problem is, unless they just won't look good on you cause you are a bit larger.


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

Tempest said:


> The idea of knockaround stuff seems really alienating to several here.


Not quite sure what you mean by 'knockaround stuff'....you mean like stuff you wear on the weekend, BBQing, at the beach, etc?

If so, I'm puzzled as the Ivy / American traditional genre is/was historically full of all softs of clothing to wear to play tennis, at the beach, to wear while rowing, sailing, golfing, etc.


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## Duvel (Mar 16, 2014)

watchnerd, you should simply try it and see how you like it.


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

Duvel said:


> watchnerd, you should simply try it and see how you like it.


Sure, I will -- but I was also asking about pairing combinations.


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## vpkozel (May 2, 2014)

watchnerd said:


> Sure, I will -- but I was also asking about pairing combinations.


IMO, you should pair it with pretty much anything that you would pair a similar vertical stripe with.

For me, any plain short would work. I would probably look at Nantucket red, pale yellow, khaki, Carolina blue. Orange or lime green would probably look good as well, especially if they are a bit faded. I would not go light gray or white, simply because there is no contrast to the white in the shirt. Navy either, for the same reason with the blue.

You could easily go with a subdued pattern as well, but I would really have to see everything in person before making that call.


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## Pentheos (Jun 30, 2008)

I think you'll look affected. If you want nautical, I'd recommend shorts, a polo, windbreaker, and baseball cap. I was just down there 10 days ago.


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## Duvel (Mar 16, 2014)

I think they look good on method actors from the 1950s.


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## YoungSoulRebel (Feb 10, 2015)

I own 3 St James pieces which I wear rather frequently. I do live 500 feet from the Pacific Ocean so I don't feel that I look "affected" , but even if I lived in Montana I'd probably still wear them. I usually just pair them with light tan chinos.


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## Pentheos (Jun 30, 2008)

YoungSoulRebel said:


> I own 3 St James pieces which I wear rather frequently. I do live 500 feet from the Pacific Ocean so I don't feel that I look "affected" , but even if I lived in Montana I'd probably still wear them. I usually just pair them with light tan chinos.


I suppose with all your tattoos you do look more like a sailor.


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

Pentheos said:


> I think you'll look affected. If you want nautical, I'd recommend shorts, a polo, windbreaker, and baseball cap. I was just down there 10 days ago.


Thanks, but I don't wear hats and I don't really like to wear polos. And I typically pick cardigans over windbreakers.

Yeah, maybe it will like like an affectation to some, but that doesn't bother me if I like it.


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

Duvel said:


> I think they look good on method actors from the 1950s.


Don't forget legendary artists.


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## Duvel (Mar 16, 2014)

Just not as good on them, though.


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## Duvel (Mar 16, 2014)

Yeah. Rather naughty.



Woofa said:


> Ahh, I just spent a moment looking closer at that picture and I am not sure if that is really appropriate for prime time as they say. Perhaps you did not look closely enough...or perhaps you did.


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## Nobleprofessor (Jul 18, 2014)

Duvel said:


> I think they look good on method actors from the 1950s.


Exactly! And as long as those actors are thin. I think these kinds of shirts especially with a boat neck would look awful unless the wearer is quite thin.


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

Woofa said:


> Ahh, I just spent a moment looking closer at that picture and I am not sure if that is really appropriate for prime time as they say. Perhaps you did not look closely enough...or perhaps you did.


Which picture are you referring to?


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## Nobleprofessor (Jul 18, 2014)

Woofa said:


> That would be the one of Edward Penisfingers.
> 
> (Edit, I hope that Joke is not too Risque for the moderators! Sorry if that offends anyone.)


Why would that offend? Because you referred to a penis? I think its safe to say most of us on this male clothing forum are equipped with them! 

Oh Lord, I hope this doesn't lead to a thread entitled "Are Penises Trad"


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

Woofa said:


> That would be the one of Edward Penisfingers.
> 
> (Edit, I hope that Joke is not too Risque for the moderators! Sorry if that offends anyone.)


Dude...it's bread. Where is your mind at? :tongue2:


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## Woofa (Dec 23, 2014)

My bad.


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

Woofa said:


> My bad.


Sailor shirts leading to 'In the Navy' by The Village People irate:...I guess it was bound to get off the rails...:evil:


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## Pentheos (Jun 30, 2008)

watchnerd said:


> Thanks, but I don't wear hats and I don't really like to wear polos. And I typically pick cardigans over windbreakers.
> 
> Yeah, maybe it will like like an affectation to some, but that doesn't bother me if I like it.


So why are you asking for advice then?


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

Pentheos said:


> So why are you asking for advice then?


Suggestions are nice, some may have ideas that I hadn't thought of. vpkozel had some nice input.


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## Duvel (Mar 16, 2014)

Nothing wrong with that, watchnerd. Style is aspirational, after all. Here's an image from the Japanese calendar year in style. I found this on oxford's blog, by the way; his post has a lot of other images I find inspiration in.










Check out the whole post. Very interesting. https://oxfordclothbuttondown.com/2014/07/a-calendar-year-in-japanese-trad/


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## Steve Smith (Jan 12, 2008)

leisureclass said:


> I have both a t-shirt and sweater (from St. James) purchased while abroad. I almost never wear the sweater and have really only found one successful way of wearing the t-shirt, it's as follows:
> 
> Take a pair of really plain shorts (khaki, dark green, maybe even navy blue but I've never tried that) and pair them with the breton stripe shirt worn as an undershirt, and an old blue o.c.b.d. with the sleeves rolled. The key element though is to wear the o.c.b.d. with at least 2, if not 3, of the top buttons undone.


I like the sound of this.


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

Duvel said:


> Nothing wrong with that, watchnerd. Style is aspirational, after all. Here's an image from the Japanese calendar year in style. I found this on oxford's blog, by the way; his post has a lot of other images I find inspiration in.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Very interesting. I loved in Japan for several years so I'm pretty familiar with Japanized American stuff. I thought the picture of the guys playing basketball in penny loafers was particularly curious.


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## Duvel (Mar 16, 2014)

As a golden retriever owner, I love the use of the dog throughout.


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

Picasso apparently also wore an open-neck variation:


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## meanoldmanning (Jan 10, 2015)

Nobleprofessor said:


> Exactly! And as long as those actors are thin. I think these kinds of shirts especially with a boat neck would look awful unless the wearer is quite thin.


Exactly that! Best reserved for someone thin and possibly young. Or female.


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

meanoldmanning said:


> Exactly that! Best reserved for someone thin and possibly young. Or female.


This guy isn't exactly petite:


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## leisureclass (Jan 31, 2011)




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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

Well now that I know Dylan wore it, I don't want one. :tongue2:


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## meanoldmanning (Jan 10, 2015)

watchnerd said:


> This guy isn't exactly petite:


Apparently fit though, so we'll make an exception. Also looks like he could beat me up so I prob would not call him out for wearing it.


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## meanoldmanning (Jan 10, 2015)

I picture Marlo Thomas in 'That Girl' when I think of this style shirt. 

Or Picasso as already shown.


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

meanoldmanning said:


> I picture Marlo Thomas in 'That Girl' when I think of this style shirt.


Who? Never heard of her or that tv show / movie.


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## meanoldmanning (Jan 10, 2015)

TV show from the 60s.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

The fact that Picasso, sexual abuser and overweening egotist that he was, wore them is enough to make me stay very, very far away from them.


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

Oldsarge said:


> The fact that Picasso, sexual abuser and overweening egotist that he was, wore them is enough to make me stay very, very far away from them.


You worry that people will think you are the same? Or that the shirt type has evil karmic power to transform you?

Sort of the 'One Ring' of shirts...


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

leisureclass said:


>


Apologies in advance to any fans, but Jeez Louise, I never realized, until looking at the pics above, that Dylan was a Jon Cryer look alike! Recall if you will Cryer's character, Duckie, in the movie The Breakfast Club. LOL.


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## vpkozel (May 2, 2014)

Oldsarge said:


> The fact that Picasso, sexual abuser and overweening egotist that he was, wore them is enough to make me stay very, very far away from them.


Wouldn't that also mean you won't drive a German car or drive on the interstate?


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## Charles Dana (Nov 20, 2006)

watchnerd said:


> I loved in Japan for several years....


Lucky you. It's a fascinating topic, but this is the wrong forum for it.


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## Charles Dana (Nov 20, 2006)

watchnerd said:


> [M]aybe it will look like an affectation to some, but that doesn't bother me if I like it.


Bullseye! This statement is brilliantly insightful because it has almost universal applicability: it could aptly serve as the concluding--and summarizing--post to nearly every thread in nearly every online clothing discussion forum. Excellent job, watchnerd.


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

Fraser Tartan said:


> _La Marinière [The French sailor shirt]_
> 
> https://frenchgirlinseattle.blogspot.com/2011/10/la-mariniere-french-sailor-shirt.html (French Girl in Seattle)


Great little short essay, thanks very much for that.

So if it's such an icon, with roots not just in Europe but also in the US, I'm wondering why it isn't a trad staple?


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

vpkozel said:


> Wouldn't that also mean you won't drive a German car or drive on the interstate?


No I don't drive a German car. I drive a pickup. And if the interstate highway system was good enough for Ike, it's good enough for me! :amazing:


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## vpkozel (May 2, 2014)

Oldsarge said:


> No I don't drive a German car. I drive a pickup. And if the interstate highway system was good enough for Ike, it's good enough for me! :amazing:


But you do know where he got the idea, right?

Anyway the point is that just because someone who did awful things wore something, the awful things that person did does not transfer through a shirt, a car, or an autobahn.


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

Add Brando and Newman to the list. I like the 'inverted' one Brando is wearing:


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## style417 (Jun 28, 2014)

watchnerd said:


> This guy isn't exactly petite:


I think Tempest mentioned these on the first page. It's a telnyashka, worn under a tunic in the Soviet forces (the blue striped was reserved for the Navy IIRC), and I believe they still wear them in today's Russian forces.


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

And some rockers


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

style417 said:


> I think Tempest mentioned these on the first page. It's a telnyashka, worn under a tunic in the Soviet forces (the blue striped was reserved for the Navy IIRC), and I believe they still wear them in today's Russian forces.


Yes. The point of the photo was to show that it isn't just worn by waif-like men.

As for telnyashka vs breton stripe, the history I read said the Russians copied it from the French during the late tsarist period.


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## Charles Dana (Nov 20, 2006)

watchnerd said:


> Add Brando and Newman to the list. I like the 'inverted' one Brando is wearing:


The guy on the right is Robert Redford. You're confusing Butch Cassidy with the Sundance Kid (which is easy to do).


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## movingwater (Oct 19, 2014)

I agree about "on the water" - like so many other cool clothes, these shirts look great, but when one gets home to the daily grind, then, not so much.


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## style417 (Jun 28, 2014)

watchnerd said:


> Yes. The point of the photo was to show that it isn't just worn by waif-like men.
> 
> As for telnyashka vs breton stripe, the history I read said the Russians copied it from the French during the late tsarist period.


Agreed, many European navies borrowed the breton stripe from the French in the 19the century. I think the French enlisted sailor still wear the breton shirt in the same way the Russians do.


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

Charles Dana said:


> The guy on the right is Robert Redford. You're confusing Butch Cassidy with the Sundance Kid (which is easy to do).


Total brainfart...I knew it was Redford...I don't know how that happened.


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## Tempest (Aug 16, 2012)

If actually at the beach, why not the full bathing suit?








https://www.gentlemansemporium.com/store/mens_swimwear.php


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

Update:

Was in Carmel last weekend and went to a touristy nautical themed store.

They had a St James model that I tried on.

The good:

The fit through the body was fine.

The bad:

It was $90 (more than I want to spend on this kind of garment)

The stripes were beige rather than white.

The neck felt odd. I'm used to v-necks.

It had, for lack of a better term, bell-bottom cuffs.

So the hunt will continue!


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## Tilton (Nov 27, 2011)

Fraser Tartan said:


>



орел мужчина


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## Tempest (Aug 16, 2012)

watchnerd said:


> It had, for lack of a better term, bell-bottom cuffs.


Straight without elastic, right? Which stretches...
I don't really get the point of luxury copies of an item known for being cheap and cheery surplus. It's a glorified t-shirt!


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

Tempest said:


> Straight without elastic, right? Which stretches...
> I don't really get the point of luxury copies of an item known for being cheap and cheery surplus. It's a glorified t-shirt!


Like the norwegian fisherman shoes that are now welted, made in shell cordovan, and sell for $700? I know, it's crazy!


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

Tempest said:


> Straight without elastic, right? Which stretches...


No, it actually flared out...like the bottom of sailor's pants.


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## gamma68 (Mar 24, 2013)

Apologies if this has already been pointed out, but horizontal stripes on a shirt tend to exaggerate a gut. Unless you've got a solid abdomen, you might think twice before wearing any horizontally striped shirt.


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

gamma68 said:


> Apologies if this has already been pointed out, but horizontal stripes on a shirt tend to exaggerate a gut. Unless you've got a solid abdomen, you might think twice before wearing any horizontally striped shirt.


That doesn't seem to deter some Russians:


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## Tempest (Aug 16, 2012)

Inconsistent pattern matching!


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

I've always liked - and wanted - the dark, narrow-striped version Cary Grant wore in _To Catch A Thief_. If you leave out the red neckerchief (which nobody who doesn't possess Grant's panache should attempt), this version of the shirt is far less likely to come across as feminine.


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

Orgetorix said:


> I've always liked - and wanted - the dark, narrow-striped version Cary Grant wore in _To Catch A Thief_. If you leave out the red neckerchief (which nobody who doesn't possess Grant's panache should attempt), this version of the shirt is far less likely to come across as feminine.


That one looks like it has almost a mock turtle neck on it.


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

Just the crew neck being stretched by the neckerchief he's wearing.


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## Duvel (Mar 16, 2014)

I thought in Thief this was more of a crewneck sweater than a true Breton-type shirt.


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

Duvel said:


> I thought in Thief this was more of a crewneck sweater than a true Breton-type shirt.


I just watched this movie about 6 months ago (in-flight to Madrid) and I believe you are correct.


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

FWIW, I think this is the St James model I tried on:


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## Duvel (Mar 16, 2014)

Thanks. I'm a huge fan of the movie (and a lot of Hitch).



watchnerd said:


> I just watched this movie about 6 months ago (in-flight to Madrid) and I believe you are correct.


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## xcubbies (Jul 31, 2005)

I can't see that shirt without thinking of the Frenchman Jean Genet, and the associations that he triggers.


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

xcubbies said:


> I can't see that shirt without thinking of the Frenchman Jean Genet, and the associations that he triggers.


Is that a positive or a negative?


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## xcubbies (Jul 31, 2005)

watchnerd said:


> Is that a positive or a negative?


What do you think?


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## Tempest (Aug 16, 2012)

I could not find an image of Genet in a striped shirt. All I got was Gaultier.


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

xcubbies said:


> What do you think?


Well he was a pretty interesting guy.


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## xcubbies (Jul 31, 2005)

watchnerd said:


> Well he was a pretty interesting guy.


Yes, very interesting, but not at all Trad.


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## Duvel (Mar 16, 2014)

I wonder if we've come to any conclusions about yes/no to wear and how to wear?


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

Duvel said:


> I wonder if we've come to any conclusions about yes/no to wear and how to wear?


Yes, with shorts and topsiders.


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## Duvel (Mar 16, 2014)

Yay! We're done then?



watchnerd said:


> Yes, with shorts and topsiders.


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## watchnerd (Mar 18, 2015)

Duvel said:


> Yay! We're done then?


Well I'm not until I actually purchase one.


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## Duvel (Mar 16, 2014)

Drats. Well, hurry up and purchase one.



watchnerd said:


> Well I'm not until I actually purchase one.


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## Tempest (Aug 16, 2012)

Heads up that one can get a 50/50 wool/cotton Telnyashka for under $20!
https://russian-crafts.com/telnyashka/warm-wool-telnyashka.html


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## Reuben (Aug 28, 2013)

Tempest said:


> Heads up that one can get a 50/50 wool/cotton Telnyashka for under $20!
> https://russian-crafts.com/telnyashka/warm-wool-telnyashka.html


Any experience with sizing?


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## Tempest (Aug 16, 2012)

Reuben said:


> Any experience with sizing?


Nope, just ran across it. They have this Euro sizing which is half the chest size in centimeters, but it's unclear if that is the actual garment measurement or that of the wearer.


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## Orsini (Apr 24, 2007)

vpkozel said:


> But you do know where he got the idea, right?
> 
> Anyway the point is that just because someone who did awful things wore something, the awful things that person did does not transfer through a shirt, a car, or an autobahn.


By observing the Germans exploit their road net for troop movements.


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