# Best Savile row tailors ?



## nicklord1 (May 9, 2009)

I have only experienced henry poole but would love to know other peoples opinons


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## David Reeves (Dec 19, 2008)

Richard Anderson is my favourate.


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## thefancyman (Apr 24, 2009)

nicklord1 said:


> I have only experienced henry poole but would love to know other peoples opinons


I am also a fan of Henry Poole & Co. but I am also very fond of Benson & Clegg. They are just off the row at 9 Piccadilly Arcade where they make both bespoke and MTM options in the workshop on the premises of their tiny shop. They are a bargain with a bespoke suit starting £1,659 and their MTM at £650 including vat. They may not be the best, per se, but I believe they offer a personal service and a deep relationship with their customers that only a small tailoring shop can afford. Also, their prices are very reasonable.


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## Frog in Suit (Mar 27, 2007)

*"Best" Savile row tailor???*

Best Savile Row tailor????

A strange question. According to what criterion? There are some SR creations I would not want to be found dead in a ditch in, which some one else might look upon as an ideal.

Perhaps refining the question, and explaining what one is looking for in a tailor, might help.

Frog in Suit


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## GITU (Mar 12, 2009)

Who works best for you?


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## ToryBoy (Oct 13, 2008)

Gieves & Hawkes

I like RA and they are very helpful; although if I did not go bespoke with G&H, would probably go to Henry Poole. 

As mentioned the best is the one who meets your requirements, no point going to A&S for an equestrian cut or Huntsman for soft shoulders.


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

*Andrew Ramroop*

Just like with each and every high end Italian bespoke tailor worldwide (regardless of location), all of the following applies (and just as much so) to all full bespoke tailored clothing (tailored clothing being jackets, morning coats, overcoats, suits, tailcoats, topcoats, trousers, tuxedos and vests) from Andrew Ramroop: almost entirely handmade with only three small or very small areas on each garment (all of which is done by a machine or two or more machines that are hand guided).

As we all know, hand guided machines have operation that is 95% manual or by hand and 5% automated or by machine (not just 51-95% manual or by hand and 5-49% automated or by machine as I originally thought). This equally makes all of the machine work in all of the full bespoke tailored clothing from Andrew Ramroop (and from all high end Italian bespoke tailors worldwide, again, regardless of location) 95% handmade and 5% machine made.

All of the above was in an article (but not online so I cannot provide any links, at least not yet, anyway) in a few clothing magazines (one of which with an interview with Andrew Ramroop himself, who, IIRC, mentioned all three branches of Rubinacci, both branches of Caraceni, Gianni Campagna and William Fioravanti as the few examples of Italian tailors he claims to match in quality and quantity of handwork and quality and quantity of other things regarding all around manufacturing processes that he and they use in general) I read a while back.

By the way, does anybody know what Andrew Ramroop's house style (definitive or otherwise) is?


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## ToryBoy (Oct 13, 2008)

*Maurice Sedwell Cut*



Audi S5 TC said:


> By the way, does anybody know what Andrew Ramroop's house style (definitive or otherwise) is?


Check this video out, Ozwald Boateng: Why Style Matters Part Four, Ozwald talks to Andrew and the Maurice Sedwell cut is mentioned. From 5 min, 22 seconds.

https://www.youtube.com/results?sea...zwald+Boateng+-+Why+Style+Matters+part+4&aq=f

He visits also Huntsman and Anderson & Sheppard, their cuts are discussed.


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## aluminiumfish (Feb 19, 2009)

I'm going to offer a bespoke ( Zegna Piana etc ) suit service from my drycleaners which I know sounds like a fish taking a day job on land but I'd love to post some pics of what we create for our first customers.
I have had the best makes from the Row pass through my hands every week and I know the stuff we are going to turn out will stand up in any company.( it will be the fitting where we make or break )

The best stuff I've seen so far has to be a top end Boateng.The button holes were just about perfect which is'nt always the case in all Row stuff ( always good to average and sometimes very good but not quite glorious like the Oswald suit we had).


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## David Reeves (Dec 19, 2008)

Readers of this forum may think I bend the rules in terms of posting commercial threads but this just plain breaks that rule.

In any case we are talking about Savile Row tailors not your bakery.



aluminiumfish said:


> I'm going to offer a bespoke ( Zegna Piana etc ) suit service from my drycleaners which I know sounds like a fish taking a day job on land but I'd love to post some pics of what we create for our first customers.
> I have had the best makes from the Row pass through my hands every week and I know the stuff we are going to turn out will stand up in any company.( it will be the fitting where we make or break )
> 
> The best stuff I've seen so far has to be a top end Boateng.The button holes were just about perfect which is'nt always the case in all Row stuff ( always good to average and sometimes very good but not quite glorious like the Oswald suit we had).


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## aluminiumfish (Feb 19, 2009)

How could you post something that has more to do with the love of clothing and pride in good clothes without the angling for work / customers that a commercial thread would do? ( did I fish for work or mention anything that might draw any details of a service that is commercially available..*apologies if I did*..but if you re-read it...I did'nt feel I did or meant to ..it's more a labour of love for myself and friends than a business and *nobody need contact me to have anything made ..please.Its not available to 'joe public'.*


p.s
Being a bakery/drycleaners ..I should'nt have the need to advertise.I have my customer/friends base already.


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## chrstc (Jun 11, 2007)

David Reeves said:


> Readers of this forum may think I bend the rules in terms of posting commercial threads but this just plain breaks that rule.
> 
> In any case we are talking about Savile Row tailors not your bakery.


You've gone a lot further than just "bending the rules" many times here. You have made exactly the sort of post that you have just criticised several times. What about your thread regarding Loro Piana shirts and the prices people would be willing to pay for them for example? If that wasn't doing commercial research here then I don't know what is. It also appears that you've forgotten that this is supposed to be a gentleman's forum and that you are supposed to possess at least basic manners.

It may also have escaped your notice but the poster who you criticise provided a lot more helpful information in his/her post re:why his chosen tailor is "the best" than you did in yours.

Chris.


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## nicklord1 (May 9, 2009)

Ok let me refine the question which tailors really know their craft and feel free to name and shame some tailors to ward us from them.


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## misterdonuts (Feb 15, 2008)

aluminiumfish said:


> did I mention anything that might draw any details of a service that is commercially available...


No, you did not. We do not know your name, address, email address or telephone number. We do not know what price you might be charging.

This reminds me of the usual truth when a chap announces, in an accusatory tone, "Someone farted!!"


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## Frog in Suit (Mar 27, 2007)

nicklord1 said:


> Ok let me refine the question which tailors really know their craft and feel free to name and shame some tailors to ward us from them.


I should think that all the established SR firms are competent, at least in their "house style". Not that other, less established, tailors are not, but one should exercise more caution or be more knowledgeable.

I think a prospective customer, in order to find "the best" tailor should do two things: first, research the world of SR (firm size, styles, pricing, atmosphere, etc&#8230 and second, engage in a bit of introspection to decide what his own tastes and priorities are, without letting himself be influenced by fame or Internet personalities, however competent the latter may be. I also think mutual trust between the customer and the tailor is essential, so a personal visit is best before one decides. 

"The best" tailor for me happens to be Meyer & Mortimer, because I went through the above process pretty thoroughly (after a 15-year no-bespoke hiatus). I am still a satisfied customer after two years and six commissions, and would recommend them to anyone sharing at least some of my tastes/points of view. 

I have never had any direct experience that might lead me to publicly criticize a firm. I think that, by and large, SR is a small world and overall its population is honourable. 

Frog in Suit


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## chrstc (Jun 11, 2007)

Hello FiS,

What an excellent post.

Chris.


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## Frog in Suit (Mar 27, 2007)

chrstc said:


> Hello FiS,
> 
> What an excellent post.
> 
> Chris.


Thank you very much.

Frog in Suit


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## GBR (Aug 10, 2005)

Frog in Suit said:


> I should think that all the established SR firms are competent, at least in their "house style". Not that other, less established, tailors are not, but one should exercise more caution or be more knowledgeable.
> 
> I think a prospective customer, in order to find "the best" tailor should do two things: first, research the world of SR (firm size, styles, pricing, atmosphere, etc&#8230 and second, engage in a bit of introspection to decide what his own tastes and priorities are, without letting himself be influenced by fame or Internet personalities, however competent the latter may be. I also think mutual trust between the customer and the tailor is essential, so a personal visit is best before one decides.
> 
> ...


Entirely correct, the revised post by the OP is of no help whatever.


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## GBR (Aug 10, 2005)

aluminiumfish said:


> The best stuff I've seen so far has to be a top end Boateng.The button holes were just about perfect which is'nt always the case in all Row stuff ( always good to average and sometimes very good but not quite glorious like the Oswald suit we had).


This is NOT an acclamation for Boateng at all, rather a condemnation - it merely points out that his button holes are machine made which is not a good way forward. Hand made button holes inevitably have a small element of variation.


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## David Reeves (Dec 19, 2008)

Alright, alright. I just felt the first paragraph was really off topic. Everybody knows how PMs work.

We also know that lots of peole use this forum for all kinds of research comercial and otherwise. I just use my own name. In the 500+ posts I have written I am sure you could find things off colour and I am sure you could find more onthis Forum with far worse manners.

Back on Topic I like Richard Anderson because I think he's the most inovative and stylish tailor on that street but he is still very classic. He's also a really nice chap. He used to be the head cutter at Huntsman, he left and took so many clients he put them out of business for a while.

His Windows both at Huntsman and RA were always impeccable. Myself from RJ and some other younger chaps from other firms like Gieves and Kilgour would get really exited about what he put in those windows.

I don't think the usual "new savile row" people like James, Everest and Boateng (who are not so new) are really leading the cutting edge. I would say it's Alexander Mcqueen (not Savile row but so trained) and RA.



chrstc said:


> You've gone a lot further than just "bending the rules" many times here. You have made exactly the sort of post that you have just criticised several times. What about your thread regarding Loro Piana shirts and the prices people would be willing to pay for them for example? If that wasn't doing commercial research here then I don't know what is. It also appears that you've forgotten that this is supposed to be a gentleman's forum and that you are supposed to possess at least basic manners.
> 
> It may also have escaped your notice but the poster who you criticise provided a lot more helpful information in his/her post re:why his chosen tailor is "the best" than you did in yours.
> 
> Chris.


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## David Reeves (Dec 19, 2008)

GBR said:


> This is NOT an acclamation for Boateng at all, rather a condemnation - it merely points out that his button holes are machine made which is not a good way forward. Hand made button holes inevitably have a small element of variation.


Was thinking that. Boateng isn't really known in the community for outstanding Bespoke work. His strengths if you rate him are in Design and his ability to Hustle.


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## aluminiumfish (Feb 19, 2009)

GBR said:


> This is NOT an acclamation for Boateng at all, rather a condemnation - it merely points out that his button holes are machine made which is not a good way forward. Hand made button holes inevitably have a small element of variation.


no no no
Machine made button holes are nothing like hand done ones.
A beautiful hand made one can be more perfect and finer and straighter than a machine one...but on the whole they have the variation that you mentioned .The really beautiful perfect ones need to be checked from the back to see if they are hand done.
I'/m not a fan of Boatang styling ...merely mentioning the level of detail i've seen.
Must post some pics of some i've seen.


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## aluminiumfish (Feb 19, 2009)




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## son of brummell (Sep 29, 2004)

Davies & Son.


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## dwyer (Mar 11, 2006)

aluminiumfish said:


>


Can't see the pic.


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## aluminiumfish (Feb 19, 2009)

have a look now..it was my first pic posts ...sorry


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## dwyer (Mar 11, 2006)

aluminiumfish said:


> have a look now..it was my first pic posts ...sorry


Can see now. Very nice indeed.


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## David Reeves (Dec 19, 2008)

All that key hole buttoning and the stitching of those buttonholes in general looks very Italian.


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## ToryBoy (Oct 13, 2008)

David Reeves said:


> All that key hole buttoning and the stitching of those buttonholes in general looks very Italian.


What you do expect from Giorgio Boateng?


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## aluminiumfish (Feb 19, 2009)

Actually thats not Boatang..thats my jacket from my own 'source' ...but when I compared the Boatang to this one ....it was pretty much a match....except his lapel hole was marginaly finer but the keyhole ever so slightly less so.

The Poster( movie) on the latest James bond movie has daniel wearing a jacket with massive lapel button slit..looks magnificent..wonder how neat/tight it is close up.


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## efdll (Sep 11, 2008)

*Bespoke tailor*

May I suggest that anyone looking for a bespoke tailor anywhere, particularly if already conversant with Savile Row, look into Christian Garcia Bespoke Tailors and Shirtmakers, in Miami -- Coral Gables, actually. The phone is 305-567-1324. As with other fine arts and crafts, the less said the better: one must experience it and decide for oneself. I'm no expert, but I have come to believe that what is done at this atelier -- and everything is done on premises -- is a nearly extinct, perfectionist calling. I have no stake in this business, but merely found it when writing an article about tailoring. Since then, Christian Garcia and I have become friends and I am a very, very occasional client, not being in the bespoke income scale. Still, I post this less out of friendship but more out of care for an exquisite practice.


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## David Reeves (Dec 19, 2008)

aluminiumfish said:


> Actually thats not Boatang..thats my jacket from my own 'source' ...but when I compared the Boatang to this one ....it was pretty much a match....except his lapel hole was marginaly finer but the keyhole ever so slightly less so.
> 
> The Poster( movie) on the latest James bond movie has daniel wearing a jacket with massive lapel button slit..looks magnificent..wonder how neat/tight it is close up.


Give us a clue. Is it an Italian make?


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## thefancyman (Apr 24, 2009)

David Reeves said:


> Give us a clue. Is it an Italian make?


If you are talking about the tailor of Daniel Craig's suits in the James Bond series, they are made by Tom Ford.


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## aluminiumfish (Feb 19, 2009)

David Reeves said:


> Give us a clue. Is it an Italian make?


nope..its made in Pakistan...but the influences are all Italian.


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## David Reeves (Dec 19, 2008)

aluminiumfish said:


> nope..its made in Pakistan...but the influences are all Italian.


So do I get a partial credit?:icon_smile_big:


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## aluminiumfish (Feb 19, 2009)

he might be in Pakistan ..but he is really an Italian in tailoring soul and mind..
so ..i was quite impressed.Fullest possible credit for wrongest answer possible ...
English button holes ?...longer and less pronounced keyhole?


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## David Reeves (Dec 19, 2008)

aluminiumfish said:


> he might be in Pakistan ..but he is really an Italian in tailoring soul and mind..
> so ..i was quite impressed.Fullest possible credit for wrongest answer possible ...
> English button holes ?...longer and less pronounced keyhole?


Not really you said yourself they are Italian inspired. I am not going to even pretend I could tell what ethnicity actually made these rather "trad" Italian looking button holes,this is tailoring not CSI! Anyway few people know what a hand stitched button hole looks like let alone the different styles of which.

They tend to be. They also look more robust and wider. Belvest is rather fond of key holes.


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## RJman (Nov 11, 2003)

aluminiumfish said:


> he might be in Pakistan ..but he is really an Italian in tailoring soul and mind..
> so ..i was quite impressed.Fullest possible credit for wrongest answer possible ...
> English button holes ?...longer and less pronounced keyhole?


I _wish_ I could say good things about the South Asian tailors with whom I have experience. I really wish.


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## ToryBoy (Oct 13, 2008)

One of friends went on holiday to India and got one made there; looked like a Lanvin suit to me and when I asked, he told me. It was a good fitting suit; however, lacked some of the advantages of a custom suit.


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## aluminiumfish (Feb 19, 2009)

I have to admit..before i met my source...i found them ( Middle East , India ,Fr East ) stacked full of tailors with horrible work...bar none.
Nothing to compare to any West End tailor let alone SR.
But you have to see the sample i got today....it's just glorious.
I'm going have to show pics...i've been drolling over it all day.
Ok maybe later..camera not at work...will do in evening


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## aluminiumfish (Feb 19, 2009)

My qualification for knowing is the large number of disasters that come our way for pressing and drycleaning.The only garments i've held from abroad and admired are 50's and 60's hong kong tailoring......nothing else.
I've had 4 suits made in Pakistan before somewhere else...in a 5 star hotel shop tailor.....binned all of them and never wore any of them.


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## jefferyd (Sep 5, 2008)

thefancyman said:


> If you are talking about the tailor of Daniel Craig's suits in the James Bond series, they are made by Tom Ford.


No, they are made by Zegna in their Couture factory, which makes the Tom Ford line. They do make splendid (hand-made) buttonholes.


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## aluminiumfish (Feb 19, 2009)

was'nt actually made for me ..so sleeves a bit short
just a sample...but love the 'boat' style ticket pocket
and it felt good...silk -wool ..Loro Piana possibly.


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## aluminiumfish (Feb 19, 2009)

button holes on sleeves


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## aluminiumfish (Feb 19, 2009)

sorry..last was not sleeve button hole ..sorry ..this one is


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## aluminiumfish (Feb 19, 2009)

boat ticket pocket close up


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## aluminiumfish (Feb 19, 2009)

guts of the lapel on a sample to show off to customers to see how a jacket is made internally


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## thefancyman (Apr 24, 2009)

jefferyd said:


> No, they are made by Zegna in their Couture factory, which makes the Tom Ford line. They do make splendid (hand-made) buttonholes.


It is possible that the fabric used to make the suits used in the Bond films were supplied by Zegna, but the suits featured in the films were not from the Tom Ford line. Each suit used was hand tailored by Ford's tailoring team, of which he supervised, and each suit was a one of a kind model especially created for Daniel Craig to be used in shooting specific scenes.


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## David Reeves (Dec 19, 2008)

I thought we were talking about Savile Row tailors....


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## misterdonuts (Feb 15, 2008)

thefancyman said:


> Ford's tailoring team


Remind me, which press release was that?


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## chrstc (Jun 11, 2007)

misterdonuts said:


> Remind me, which press release was that?


Hello,

I've never understood why anyone would trust someone who "designs" suits and yet has his own clothing made elsewhere. It is well known that Ford is a major Anderson and Sheppard customer and indeed collects vintage examples of their work. Given that one of his own suits costs more than A&S bespoke anyway, why on earth would people not take their cues from him if they are so enamoured with his style and go direct to the Row? Calvin Kelin apparently has his suits made by Davies, Hardy Amies used to have his made by Norton (which really says a lot for his own in-house tailors!) etc etc.

Odd!!

Chris.


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## Frog in Suit (Mar 27, 2007)

chrstc said:


> Hello,
> 
> I've never understood why anyone would trust someone who "designs" suits and yet has his own clothing made elsewhere. It is well known that Ford is a major Anderson and Sheppard customer and indeed collects vintage examples of their work. Given that one of his own suits costs more than A&S bespoke anyway, why on earth would people not take their cues from him if they are so enamoured with his style and go direct to the Row? Calvin Kelin apparently has his suits made by Davies, Hardy Amies used to have his made by Norton (which really says a lot for his own in-house tailors!) etc etc.
> 
> ...


"Do as I say, do not do as I do."

Good point.

Frog in Suit


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## Mr. Chatterbox (May 1, 2005)

I would suggest that medwards' thread on Savile Row tailoring is a rather splendid resource for this discussion.

https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?t=43787


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## mafoofan (May 16, 2005)

aluminiumfish said:


> guts of the lapel on a sample to show off to customers to see how a jacket is made internally


That looks like an awful lot of machine-stitching to me.


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## thefancyman (Apr 24, 2009)

misterdonuts said:


> Remind me, which press release was that?


https://www.latimes.com/features/lifestyle/la-et-bond24-2008jun24,0,4487611.story. This is an article from the LA Times Image section of their website, from June 24, 2008.


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## aluminiumfish (Feb 19, 2009)

mafoofan said:


> That looks like an awful lot of machine-stitching to me.


on the lapel as well?
the lapel is hand stitched ..that line of fabric on the lapel inner edge is machined


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## mafoofan (May 16, 2005)

aluminiumfish said:


> on the lapel as well?
> the lapel is hand stitched ..that line of fabric on the lapel inner edge is machined


Really? I was always under the impression that crow's feet stitching that regular strongly implies machine work.


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## aluminiumfish (Feb 19, 2009)

its slightly irregular if you look closely...


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## aluminiumfish (Feb 19, 2009)

but i will check first..i looked at myself carefully....marvelled at it....but thought i could see a regular but human hand in the stitching...but i think i better check first...could be a wonky machine....


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## aluminiumfish (Feb 19, 2009)

I've just spoken to my tailor over here.( not from the maker ).who looked at the sample himself...he says that is hand done.
Its just really well done.The button holes look machined as well...but they all hand done as well.


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## David Reeves (Dec 19, 2008)

While it may seem strange I sort of understand why these people would do this. I have been going to the same shirt manufacturer for over 10 years (I do use them in my own line now)despite as a buyer and designer having access to many other manufacturers including in house during my career.

I did this out of loyalty and because well if it ain't broke don't fix it. I was always busy taking care of other peoples clothes so I didn't feel like dealing with my own and going through all the details with the manufacturers and workers. I don't know maybe I am a creature of habbit.



chrstc said:


> Hello,
> 
> I've never understood why anyone would trust someone who "designs" suits and yet has his own clothing made elsewhere. It is well known that Ford is a major Anderson and Sheppard customer and indeed collects vintage examples of their work. Given that one of his own suits costs more than A&S bespoke anyway, why on earth would people not take their cues from him if they are so enamoured with his style and go direct to the Row? Calvin Kelin apparently has his suits made by Davies, Hardy Amies used to have his made by Norton (which really says a lot for his own in-house tailors!) etc etc.
> 
> ...


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## jefferyd (Sep 5, 2008)

mafoofan said:


> Really? I was always under the impression that crow's feet stitching that regular strongly implies machine work.


No- the chevron stitch in their photo is clearly done by hand. Machine stitching looks like this- notice the stitches are joined and there are little loops


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## archduke (Nov 21, 2003)

nicklord1 said:


> I have only experienced henry poole but would love to know other peoples opinons


Which cutter would you recommend at Poole?


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## mafoofan (May 16, 2005)

jefferyd said:


> No- the chevron stitch in their photo is clearly done by hand. Machine stitching looks like this- notice the stitches are joined and there are little loops


Really? That's very interesting. I always thought extra-neat, perfectly consistent stitching in a chevron pattern implied machine stitching. I stand corrected.


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## 16412 (Apr 1, 2005)

Hand padded is also described as herring bone. 

mafoofan you should look at what the old guys did with hand sewing. Straight and evenly spaced stitches, some so good, and most from the old guys, you can't even tell some of it from machine sewing. In the old days people still went to the best and there was lots of competition and crooked, wobbly and uneven spaced stitches nobody wants it even back then, so the skill level was very high. Today, some cons are using "crooked, wobbly and uneven spaced stitches" as a sign of quality. With so much machine work almost nobody builds up the skill the old guys had.


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## aluminiumfish (Feb 19, 2009)

A good bakery always use the best ingredients


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## chrstc (Jun 11, 2007)

aluminiumfish said:


> A good bakery always use the best ingredients


:icon_smile_big: Very witty!

Chris.


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## misterdonuts (Feb 15, 2008)

thefancyman said:


> https://www.latimes.com/features/lifestyle/la-et-bond24-2008jun24,0,4487611.story. This is an article from the LA Times Image section of their website, from June 24, 2008.


Many thanks. You're too funny.


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## pusso (May 5, 2009)

I now go to Gieves and Hawkes, since Timothy Everest messed up my last order but were kind and professional enough to refund me as the garment was unwearable.

Gieves sourced the exact fabric I wanted, cut the pattern beautifully,and did all of the detailing I wanted.

I have already placed my order for next year, and for my shirts as well.
My bespoke boots will be ready in 10 months, so I suppose I wont be able to wear them until winter 2013.


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