# Question: Cole Haan shoe wear



## findmatt77 (Dec 6, 2008)

I'm hoping some of the folks here can help me with some shoe knowledge. I just purchased a pair of shoes from Cole Haan, and within 15 minutes of wearing them they've developed the sort of creases that I associate with a cheap pair of shoes. See the link for photos:​Is this a symptom of the type of leather they've used to make they shoes? At $198, I expect a little more.

(I also own a pair of Allen Edmonds, and while they're clearly superior, I find the insole to be a bit hard and my feet hurt halfway through the day. The cushion of the Cole Haan Nike Airs is really comfortable.)


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## Cary Grant (Sep 11, 2008)

Awful. Corrected grain? Either way, awful.

Years ago I bought a pair of CH's that fell apart at the sole in just days. Nordstroms replaced them. They fell apart again. Got my money back.

Lesson learned.


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## theCardiffGiant (Sep 16, 2007)

That looks familiar. Where have I seen that sort of creasing before?

Oh yeah. On my Cole Haan shoes.

Mine isn't quite that bad, but I assumed it was a problem with the fit (8.5 E, rather than my usual 8 EEE). The leather definitely doesn't hold a candle to any of my Allen Edmonds, none of which has developed creases.


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## Cruiser (Jul 21, 2006)

If you want an inexpensive corrected grain rubber soled business casual shoe I can recommend this Rockport that I've been wearing for a couple of months now. At half the price mine look much better after a couple of months wear than the Cole Haans that you pictured. They have the Reebok DMX air cushion technology and I find them to be quite comfortable.










https://zapp.me/7555527

Cruiser


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

I believe that sort of creasing only occurs while watching Friday Night Lights. Try switching channels.​


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## RM Bantista (May 30, 2009)

findmatt77 said:


> I'm hoping some of the folks here can help me with some shoe knowledge. I just purchased a pair of shoes from Cole Haan, and within 15 minutes of wearing them they've developed the sort of creases that I associate with a cheap pair of shoes. See the link for photos:​Is this a symptom of the type of leather they've used to make they shoes? At $198, I expect a little more.
> 
> (I also own a pair of Allen Edmonds, and while they're clearly superior, I find the insole to be a bit hard and my feet hurt halfway through the day. The cushion of the Cole Haan Nike Airs is really comfortable.)


Cole Haan shoes do not seem to be the best quality items. That has been discussed here previously. ~$200.00 is certainly too high a price to pay for them on any day. Personally, they do not fit me, and I have not purchased any of them.

However, how have you treated this (less than perfect and premium item)? It would not seem that these shoes have received any treatment by the customer/end user, that is yourself, prior to usage. I could be wrong, but it would not seem that the shoes have been conditioned and polished prior to use. This is not important in establishing that the quality of the item is not as fine as one would wish at this price point, but at any price, one would wish to treat a leather item prior to use. It isn't fair. One may buy a jacket or tie or shirt or many other items and wear it/them immediately. Some would wash a shirt first. Some would adjust a jacket with tailoring one feature or another first. But it is possible to just wear a properly fitted item of this sort from day one without further prior treatment. But smooth leathers are different.

One should always treat them with a conditioner prior to use. I have polished leather jackets in addition to conditioning them prior to wear. I didn't always do this, and I do not have those shoes today. But I do have shoes and boots that are probably older than some of our member posters today.

I would also say that a polish should be applied prior to first actual use. One may prefer one type of polish above another. But a first polish prior to use is important. I use a cream where I can match the original finish; black for black, brown for brown, cordovan for cordovan, neutral for others. It can be a multi-stage process. One might then polish with a paste wax polish to finish the preparation. This is also a complex process which has been described here in detail in other posts.

Had these methods been applied, I would not expect that a well made shoe would look so used with wear.

Although, I have another question. Which is simply this, do you know your size?

Size matters a great deal when it comes to comfort at the end of the day. It can be very difficult to determine what one's size may be in any particular shoe line, as they may not be the same as the same size in another shoe, even by the same manufacturer. The reasons for this are beyond my intent here and are not trivial.

Therefore, recognizing when a shoe actually does properly fit becomes another end user requirement and is not trivial in consequence. Some shoes are too wide or narrow in one area or another or too long or short in overall construction. Some shoes are too tightly constructed across the instep, etc. There are many factors that matter a great deal and are very difficult to identify with a very general number/letter system. Some persons are not suited to standard, commonly available sizes. It becomes very difficult to establish what the proper fit may be for persons who are not actually a regular size.

I have been able to wear sizes between 7 and 8 1/2 and do. It depends on many things. It becomes very complicated; socks insoles, linings, etc... Lasts upon which the item is constructed as a form are the start, but that is a technical area beyond the consumer. A custom maker will measure you in several ways and the shoe or boot will fit when they complete delivery. This is what White's would do by their process without face to face interaction. Seems to work, but those are one particular kind of boot which are not always seen to be a comfortable fit without wearing them a few times. That is intended. So, you may see that a better quality item may not be the most comfortable thing in first appearance, but may be revealed to be the best thing ever upon subsequent wear. Whether your allen edmonds will be such a thing is unknown. It is possible. It is also possible that they are not the correct size for your foot for some reason. Wouldn't rule one thing or another out at this point.

Good fortune upon you.

This kind of thing ought to be simpler than it it actually is, but that is impossible, in fact.

rudy


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Cary Grant said:


> Awful. Corrected grain? Either way, awful.
> ..........
> Lesson learned.


+1. I suspect what you are seeing is the cracking/creasing of the 'lacquered' finish applied to corrected grain leathers, to give it that pristine, though artificial, appearance. The results referenced in the OP occur practically the first time the material is flexed and it occurs with all shoes of corrected grain leather, regardless of the branding!


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## Checkerboard 13 (Oct 6, 2009)

I agree that corrected grain is the most likely culprit.

To my knowledge, I own only one pair of Cole Haan shoes, and they're at least a half-dozen years old. Out of curiosity I took a look at them, and while they are corrected grain and have the same sort of creasing, even after over half a decade of wear (and at least one resole) the creasing doesn't approach that seen on your shoes. 
I also have a quite new pair of Florsheim wingtips, corrected grain, that I bought as "throwaway" shoes, for occasions where I would run the risk of damaging good shoes. After about two wearings, these show rather serious creasing, approaching what I see on your Cole Haans. 
I wonder if the quality (if one might use that term) of corrected grain has gone downhill in general.

And forgive me for saying so, but I rather doubt the problem has anything at all to do with not conditioning the leather before the initial wearing. I will often wear a new pair of shoes a time or two before any polishing or other conditioning, given they are not old stock and the leather has not dried out for some other reason. (I did just that this evening with a new pair of Grenson bluchers, as a matter of fact.) Despite this habit, I have never had a problem with that sort of creasing with any quality shoes made of non-corrected grain leather.

It is my opinion that Cole Hann, along with most of the remainder of once quality, (once US made) shoe companies are trading on their previous excellent reputations (along, perhaps, with a bit of styling) and selling poor quality shoes for _far _more than their actual value.

For the $200 spent on what would appear to be a rather poor quality pair of shoes, one could quite easily purchase a top quality pair of seconds or discontinued shoes and most likely be far happier in the long run.

Out of curiosity, how many times have you worn the AE shoes that you find uncomfortable? It usually takes quite a few wearings for a leather soled, goodyear welted, cork lined shoe to break in to fit the foot. (Also initial sizing is very important.)

In my experience, branded "air" insoles, be they Nike, Reebok or otherwise are more sales gimmick than advancement in shoe technology. They are extremely inexpensive for shoemakers to add to their shoes and the "name brand" helps sell, as does the initial comfort when trying on a new pair of shoes that haven't been properly broken in. However in my experience, such "enhancements" do far less over the life of a pair of shoes. I've tried shoes with gel, air, various sorts of "special" padding and/or liners, and nothing has given me, in the long run, the comfort and support of a well constructed pair of leather shoes.


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## Checkerboard 13 (Oct 6, 2009)

I would like to add that if these shoes are indeed a new purchase, you really should consider returning them as defective. 
If the store where you made the purchase refuses to accept them, contact Cole Haan directly (and take your future purchases to another establishment!)

Nobody should have to accept that sort of inferior quality in a pair of shoes at that price. Were enough customers to take action on their dissatisfaction, perhaps companies might learn that the best way to improve their profits might not be what may appear to them to be the most direct route (that of decreasing quality.)


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## zandago (Apr 14, 2009)

I noticed the same thing with a pair of Cole Haans I bought a year ago. My pair is a calf/tan color and the flaking at the creases was pretty noticeable. The pair I bought was at an outlet in the neighborhood of <$90 (originally 200+) so it wasnt too big a deal. 

Since finding this forum I've become much more educated on quality and have bought several pairs of AEs with no creasing problems whatsoever. I've also learned how to take care of my shoes too!


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## dfloyd (May 7, 2006)

*Cole-Haan was a small, quality family owned company ...*

until they were bought by Nike. Since then, the quality has gone south, and the fit is rediculousl. I bought a pait of driving shoes from them which literally fell apart: the sole and rubber strip which is bonded to the leather uppers came completely off. Also, I always wore their top-of-the line tassels made in Italy. Bragano, I think, is the name. They changed the style for men of wide feet. Their standard D width must at least be an E width or greater. Even with inserts in the shoes, I walk right out of them. What you can do is simple: don't buy Cole-Haan.


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## gnatty8 (Nov 7, 2006)

Cruiser said:


> If you want an inexpensive corrected grain rubber soled business casual shoe I can recommend this Rockport that I've been wearing for a couple of months now. At half the price mine look much better after a couple of months wear than the Cole Haans that you pictured. They have the Reebok DMX air cushion technology and I find them to be quite comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Those are beautiful Cruiser, do they come in patent for formal occasions?


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## CuffDaddy (Feb 26, 2009)

Regretably, Cole Haan has become garbage, more or less, since Nike bought them. I have a pair of pre-Nike CH shoes, and love them. I doubt I would buy any of their items now, though.


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## CuffDaddy (Feb 26, 2009)

Cruiser said:


>


I don't get it, what's the gag?


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## findmatt77 (Dec 6, 2008)

Many thanks to all for the helpful input. To answer a few questions, I bought the shoes new from a Cole Haan store. So I doubt I'll have any issues returning them. I have another pair of CH, similar to those pictured. But that other pair is a slip-on model in calfskin, and very comfortable. I was hoping to replicate that experience, but this new pair obviously looks terrible.

As for my old Allen Edmonds, I've had them for about 2 years. The fit is fine in terms of how my foot fits into the shoe. But after an afternoon of wearing them, I can really feel it on the sole of my foot - really tired feet. So I'm looking for a well made, leather-soled that can take me through the day without regrets!


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## phyrpowr (Aug 30, 2009)

The problem with AEs is no shank. They say that the shoe molds to your foot, which of course it can't unless you have no arch.

However, there are lots of good aftermarket insoles out there with good support. Besides shoe and running shoe stores, try backpacking shops

BTW, I'm certain that I've had "corrected grain" shoes before, and I've _never _had a shoe crease like that after one wearing


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## findmatt77 (Dec 6, 2008)

Wouldn't insoles with added arch support require removing the existing Allen Edmonds insole? Seems like there's not enough room in there to add another layer of insole.


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## phyrpowr (Aug 30, 2009)

There are a number of supportive insoles that add very little bulk. I use old Dr. Scholl arch supports with no problem. Incidentally, Herblock's Law applies to these supports, just right for me: if you find a good product that does just what you need, they'll quit making it.


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## Dr. NS (Aug 25, 2009)

I remember buying a Cole Haan years ago believing in their Nike Air features... Boy.. was I gullible then. No more Cole Haan for me since then.


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## calviny (Dec 10, 2008)

I have three of the cole haan airs with leather soles. Retail in the 3-400 range. They are actually surprisingly good, comfortable, and outperform the AE's I recently bought by far. So not all Cole Haan's are terrible. These by the was were made in italy, one in england.


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## audog (Apr 19, 2009)

Noticed that some of the new CH's are made in India, so much for a vererable old American brand. Stick with AE or Alden.


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## thefancyman (Apr 24, 2009)

calviny said:


> I have three of the cole haan airs with leather soles. Retail in the 3-400 range. They are actually surprisingly good, comfortable, and outperform the AE's I recently bought by far. So not all Cole Haan's are terrible. These by the was were made in italy, one in england.


I don't think Cole Haan has any recent models made in England but every shoe manufactured for the Cole Haan Collection is made in Italy. The Collection line of shoes retails from $328-450 and are hand-stitched blake constructed, feature hand burnished leather uppers and soles, fully leather lined and the heel is stacked with brass nails. CH released an English-made model a while a go that was bench-made goodyear constructed, hand burnished and was lined in lambskin.


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## Dr. NS (Aug 25, 2009)

calviny said:


> I have three of the cole haan airs with leather soles. Retail in the 3-400 range. They are actually surprisingly good, comfortable, and outperform the AE's I recently bought by far. So not all Cole Haan's are terrible. These by the was were made in italy, one in england.


Hmm... should I give it another try??


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## riyadh552 (Mar 4, 2009)

I bought a CH Collection Lucarno Chelsea boots (made in Italy, Bologna construction) last year, and so far they have held up pretty well. No complaints about creasing.


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## damon54 (Dec 12, 2007)

I have a pair of pebbled leather (for lack of a better description) Cap Toe's in the Nike Air sole variety that I wear fairly constantly as daily "beaters". 
With the help of a shoe stretcher & proper attachments I was able to get them to be very comfortable as I have a wide foot & my little toe can be a problem.

I tore out the entire insole and replaced it with mantovani camel leather replacement.

I agree that these are not worth full retail but I have been pleased with how mine have held up given the torture I put them thru, multiple days of wear in a row, on & off with no shoe horn often without unbuckling, & frequently going sockless in Texas Heat!.


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## ecox (Oct 25, 2009)

findmatt77 said:


> I'm hoping some of the folks here can help me with some shoe knowledge. I just purchased a pair of shoes from Cole Haan, and within 15 minutes of wearing them they've developed the sort of creases that I associate with a cheap pair of shoes. See the link for photos:​Is this a symptom of the type of leather they've used to make they shoes? At $198, I expect a little more.


I picked up a pair of Cole Haan Air Barrett pennies at Nordstron Rack over the weekend for $89. List is $195. After _one day_ of wear the leather started to do the same thing as in your shoe. But mine did yours one better. The heel started to come unglued from where it meets the sole. Needless to say, they went back the next day. I was sad because I loved the color, which was a nice natural saddle; sort of an orangey-tan.

Never again will I waste my money on Cole Haans. Lesson learned.

Best,
-Erik


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## archon (Jul 28, 2008)

I have a pair of CH split toe shoes that I acquired at Macys about a year ago. They creased almost immediately, but not as bad as the ones in the OP. The difference could that I applied Luxol conditioner and shined them before wearing them out.

CH's are comfortable for me but not the quality I thought they would be at their current price point. If you want a pair of "throw away" shoes to wear in the city or when it is rainy try Bostonian. I have found that they are more comfortable, a much lower price point, and the leather uppers are more durable. I get about a year of good use out of a pair of Bostonians before I have to trash them. Not bad for a $50 pair of shoes.

I am wearing a pair of Bostonian cap toes today. They have a crease, but it is fairly unnoticeable, much less so then my CH shoes. 

If you can return those CH and get something else (like two pairs of Bostonians!)


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## JDMills (May 19, 2009)

Wow that's pretty bad, I have a pair of Florsheim's I wear on bad days and they've been worn dozen's or times and still look ok.


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## G_Stephen (Aug 25, 2007)

I agree. The workmanship has declined since the Nike deal. I have two pre-Nike CH lace-up's and they are still in rotation going on three years. I no longer shop CH. Too bad too. They made a reasonably priced, quality item until Nike entered the picture. Now, I shop only Alden and Fratelli Peluso.


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## Musick (Oct 5, 2009)

RM Bantista said:


> ... I could be wrong, but it would not seem that the shoes have been conditioned and polished prior to use....
> 
> rudy


Regardless of $ spent, I must echo Rudys sentiment - leather shoes should ALWAYS be conditioned (and allowed to penetrate the leather for at least 24 hrs. imo) before the initial wearing.

Most shoes, high-end or otherwise, are dry upon acquisition in my experience. They NEED treatment!

My 1st pair of decent leather shoes that I treated before wearing are 3 yrs. old and have yet to develop the extreme creasing shown in the original pic. They werent CH, were not the style shown, but were "cheap" (less than $100). They still look very presentable after many years.

My two cents.


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## Checkerboard 13 (Oct 6, 2009)

One could condition corrected grain leather all one wants, but it will forever remain corrected grain. 
Corrected grain is leather that has an unsuitable surface (read: poor quality) that is "sanded down" and an artificial surface applied. It will never exhibit the surface properties of quality leather.


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## Checkerboard 13 (Oct 6, 2009)

True, though, that some shoes are dry, out of the box.
Those, though, are often old stock, and have sat on the shelf long enough to dry out.
Quality shoes, of good quality leather, freshly made, should be soft and supple, just as they are.


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## NoVaguy (Oct 15, 2004)

I own the Cole Haan Traftons (the spade sole shoes) and they look well made (they're currently sitting in the box, stacked with boxes of other unworn shoes). But those retailed around the $500 mark and were well made. Most of CH's ~$200 stuff is not worth getting, you probably want to look at the $350-400 english made stuff or the $450-500 Trafton stuff. And even then, because of the CH name and Nike Branding, those shoes are inflated in price at full retail. Allen Edmonds are usually a better buy.


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## keithavery (Jun 27, 2012)

I have a pair of Cole Haan Dixon's in Mahagony. I bought them about 10 years ago on STP. They were made in Italy. They are beautiful shoes. Brass nail in heels, soft calfskin, one of my favorite looking pairs of shoes. Unfortunately they are not narrows so I rarely wear them, but if they were narrow they might be my favorite shoes. They seem a little more stylish than my AEs. All of the newer Cole Haan shoes I look at are horrible though. It is really sad to see the current quality of shoe manufacturing, in many US malls you can not buy a pair of dress shoes that will last any period of time and they will look horrible right out of the box. Many people knock AE for style but they are the last quality shoe widely available in America today. I pray they never go out of business.


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## Miket61 (Mar 1, 2008)

Hmm... I recently purchased a pair of Cole Haan Carters in white nubuck. These aren't shoes I expect to wear very often, as the window for wearing white shoes is narrow. They were at Nordstrom Rack for $89. Should I take them back?


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## ferry1950 (Jul 26, 2006)

Funny to read this discssion about Cole Haan and pre- Nike quality.
Today I am wearing 20 year old C H's Bragano model that have been re-soled twice including new heels and they still feel and look great.
Recently been buying the driving shoes in deep discount that last a couple of years before I toss them.


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## johnpark11 (Oct 19, 2009)

I buy mine at the outlet in the $99 range and run about 4 in a roto. I agree the quality is not that of AE, but CH look sharper IMO. So, I spend $400 on 4 pair that last 4 years or so. Rather than $300-$400 on one pair. Plus, I get to shop more.


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## Philo Vance (Jan 13, 2009)

1985 was very good year for David Lee Roth and Cole Haan. Roth left Van Halen and released his California Girls EP; Cole Haan put out this Cadogan made by Edward Green on the 33 last - a square-toed derivative of the 32 last, which was apparently a precursor to the 888:


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## RM Bantista (May 30, 2009)

Miket61 said:


> Hmm... I recently purchased a pair of Cole Haan Carters in white nubuck. These aren't shoes I expect to wear very often, as the window for wearing white shoes is narrow. They were at Nordstrom Rack for $89. Should I take them back?[/QUOTE
> Pretty old question that one has just seen. The answer is no. They will be fine for your purposes. One wears white bucks instead of boat shoes or shower shoes or sneakers of whatever sort. Not a bad deal for this sort of thing, and they will probably be fine. But do, please let us know what your experience has been.
> Of course, one must always consider the hours worked under the most adverse situations one encounters when spending any money. What exactly does this (any particular item or service) actually cost in time and trouble, tribulation and taxes? That's where I live. Never buy without a thought about what any particular thing may actually cost in my own experience and balancing that with the potential benefit of the purchase to my purposes.
> You are, as are we all, free to do as you please, but there are many elements of any decision that need to be examined quickly to arrive at the correct course of action in any given moment. There is never all the information one would need to make any particular choice; therefore, one must rely on intuition and whatever evidence may be at hand and trust the better course will present itself as the correct choice.
> ...


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