# Regular vs. Long suit / sport coats?



## Stubbly (Jul 26, 2013)

These days, considering some of the shorter cuts in suit / sport coats, what are the rules for a proper coat length?

Recently, I purchased a Kroon sport coat from Sierra TP. I like the look & the fabric, but it's about an inch, or so, shorter than my other 42R sport coats. 

I could try a Kroon in a 42L, but it would seem that a 42L is not only longer than a 42R, but the taper (torso) is different, too. Hence, I may be better off staying with the 42R. Also staying with the 42R would save S/H costs, and the hassle of returns.


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## mhdena (Jan 4, 2008)

The rules are to try both sizes and go with the best fit. Especially so with a brand and model new to you.


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## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

mhdena said:


> The rules are to try both sizes and go with the best fit. Especially so with a brand and model new to you.


Agreed and I'd add that today you have to decide if you are going to be "current" with fashion, meaning wearing shorter jackets than most on this board would argue are traditional or if you are going to keep your wardrobe more aligned with classic measurement and, thus, be a bit out of step with the fashion of the moment.

I am going with the later for myself (as much as possible - one can't do much about narrower lapels, skinnier arm and leg circumferences etc. - but where I can, I am trying to at least lean to classic, time-testing measurements).

My three reasons for this are:

1. I believe that the classic measurements have come about because, over time, the most aesthetically pleasing fits and measurements became those standards (i.e., they have evolved by trail and error and represent the collected wisdom of many generations).

2. The best-dress men of all time, Cary Grant for example, chose clothes, fits and measurements that worked best for them - enhanced their look the most - and did not bend (too often or for too long) to current fashions (and the few times they did hew to current fashion, those outfits now look dated or "off").

3. I buy clothes (medium to expensive for my budget) that are classics that I want to wear for many years; hence, I will be wearing my classically tailored suits long after the current, overly skinny craze is over. My clothes are an investment that I have no interest in replacing when the fashion winds change. Most of my favorite clothing items are years old and have been enhanced by the aging process.


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## Stubbly (Jul 26, 2013)

I prefer my suit/sport coats to be a traditional length, not the "current" shorter cuts.

After more consideration , I've decided to keep the Kroon sport coat. It's not ridiculously short, only a little short. And, it didn't cost a lot. For a more expensive sport coat, I would definitely go with a traditional length / cut.

Thanks for the feedback!


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## Andy (Aug 25, 2002)

Stubbly:

From the Suit Chapter, Fit Section of the new revised The Encyclopedia of Men's Clothes:

The jacket back should be long enough to cover your butt that is the lower curve of your rear with ½ inch to spare. The "cup the fingers" method doesn't really work since some men of equal height have arms that are longer. Run a tape measure from the base of the collar to the bottom of the jacket in back. Then make sure that the measurement taken is the same for the measurement from the bottom of the back of the jacket to the floor. ​


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## Stubbly (Jul 26, 2013)

Thanks !


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## Anthony Charton (May 7, 2012)

Fading Fast said:


> 1. I believe that the classic measurements have come about because, over time, the most aesthetically pleasing fits and measurements became those standards (i.e., they have evolved by trail and error and represent the collected wisdom of many generations).


This. To put it in a lapidary way, classic 'rules' suggest that a suits or sports jacket (unless for certain outdoors activities such as hunting) should be long enough to cover your backside and stop (approximately) at one's knuckles.


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## Stubbly (Jul 26, 2013)

In the end, I changed my mind about keeping this Kroon coat, and exchanged it for a 42 long. The 42 long looks much better.

BTW, most of my newer suits & coats are size 44 R. Occasionally, a size 42 will fit. Even when dropping down to the 42, this Kroon coat was a very generous cut for me. The shoulders fit well, but I had my tailor taper the body.

I think it's time for me to go MTM.


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## StylinLa (Feb 15, 2009)

Anthony Charton said:


> This. To put it in a lapidary way, classic 'rules' suggest that a suits or sports jacket (unless for certain outdoors activities such as hunting) should be long enough to cover your backside and stop (approximately) at one's knuckles.


Thats the rule I often hear. Those short cut suits make men look a bit like a gorilla in a side show to me, but I suppose I'm just an old cranky guy these days.


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