# June Acquisitions



## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

These arrived a couple of days ago, but I've been enjoying them too much to post pics. 

Alden for BB tassels


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## CMDC (Jan 31, 2009)

^Nice.

Blue and white BB ocbds slim fit. Pretty much the perfect shirt in my book.


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

Cardinals5 said:


> These arrived a couple of days ago, but I've been enjoying them too much to post pics.
> 
> Alden for BB tassels


enjoy wearing your tassels


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

Lured in by the BB shirt sale last week, slim fit OCBDs:










And some madras shorts, Polo with cool back cinch from the thrift exchange (fit now) and J Crew patch madras (fit when there's a little less of me) thrifted:


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## EastVillageTrad (May 12, 2006)

Lands End Pincord Trousers.


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

AlanC said:


> And some madras shorts, Polo with cool back cinch from the thrift exchange (fit now) and J Crew patch madras (fit when there's a little less of me) thrifted:


nephew,
would like to see a picture of you wearing the madras shorts


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## Taken Aback (Aug 3, 2009)

mcarthur said:


> nephew,
> would like to see a picture of you wearing the madras shorts


Perhaps you meant that for a PM? :biggrin:


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

Some sweaters I picked up at thrifts since returning to Washington state (it's cold out here)

https://img256.imageshack.us/i/picture002tfk.jpg/
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
left to right
McGeorge v-neck cashmere (eBay)
LE crew neck cashmere
LE v-neck cashmere
Barrie shetland button front vest
Alan Paine lambswool crew neck
B2 merino 1/4 zip


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## TheWGP (Jan 15, 2010)

Cards, I missed it somehow - nice tassels! How many shells are you up to now? Your bargain-hunting is an inspiration. I have also yet to find my second cashmere sweater - nobody even bought the first one, so nice finds!


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

My shell collection is only up to seven pairs. There's only a couple more shell models that I'd be interested in, but otherwise I'm happy with calf.


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## Mississippi Mud (Oct 15, 2009)

Won these vintage Cole Haan chukkas on eBay, and they arrived today. Very pleased.

https://www.auctiva.com/hostedimages/showimage.aspx?gid=1227743&image=374964401&images=374964231,374964265,374964295,374964315,374964336,374964364,374964401,374964422,374964446&formats=0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0&format=0


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

Mississippi Mud said:


> Won these vintage Cole Haan chukkas on eBay, and they arrived today. Very pleased.


Nice pick up, Mud. Are those made in USA? I never remember if the CH green tag always means made in USA or not.


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## Mississippi Mud (Oct 15, 2009)

Cardinals5 said:


> Nice pick up, Mud. Are those made in USA? I never remember if the CH green tag always means made in USA or not.


Not always, Card. These were made in Brazil, so I wouldn't assume all older green label CH's are made in the USA. These are probably a good example of a "transitional" pair when they first started outsourcing. Still, the leather seems of decent quality and the fit is good.


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## Pentheos (Jun 30, 2008)

Blue-white surcingle ($.99 Ebay find)

Some "Executive Imperial" LWBs in an espresso brown pebblegrain ($18 Ebay find)


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

Took a flyer on this lot of shoes on Ebay. Pretty sure those LHS are shell, which would easily recoup my investment alone. The calf NSTs look nice, too. The rest I should be able to either flip on the fora or, at worst, take down to my local consignment shop and get back more than I have in them.

https://img820.imageshack.us/i/shoelot.png/

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I managed to sneak one auction past Cards' watchful eye!


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

Orgetorix said:


> I managed to sneak one auction past Cards' watchful eye!


Here's hoping the lhs are shell and they fit you. As for sneaking one past me - I must have been resting my shell detecting eye :icon_smile_wink: There are currently a couple of pairs of unmarked shells on eBay (not in sizes I'm watching for), but I haven't posted them so hopefully others here have noticed.

Edit: Just looked at the pics carefully and those have to be shell lhs - and great price on the lot!


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## TheWGP (Jan 15, 2010)

Cardinals5 said:


> My shell collection is only up to seven pairs. There's only a couple more shell models that I'd be interested in, but otherwise I'm happy with calf.


Fair enough - I'm a little more into the "shell" thing, but some of my calf shoes are really awesome too and I'd never get rid of them. I think you've had better willpower than I, though 

Orgetorix, I think those have to be shell too - great deal! Even if you end up donating some of the crappiest shoes to Goodwill, it's more than worth it!

Oh, and I'll just edit this - my personal acquisitions for the month include several thrifted things, a couple of trade sets, but the tradliest of these is probably an Alden black shell perf captoe in rather bad shape - sent off to B. Nelson's already to be enlivened, and an Alden #8 full strap that for some inexplicable reason fit slightly tight in the toe box. Taking them to the cobbler tomorrow for width stretching, since I only have an instep streatcher...


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

TheWGP said:


> Fair enough - I'm a little more into the "shell" thing, but some of my calf shoes are really awesome too and I'd never get rid of them. I think you've had better willpower than I, though
> 
> Orgetorix, I think those have to be shell too - great deal! Even if you end up donating some of the crappiest shoes to Goodwill, it's more than worth it!
> 
> Oh, and I'll just edit this - my personal acquisitions for the month include several thrifted things, a couple of trade sets, but the tradliest of these is probably an Alden black shell perf captoe in rather bad shape - sent off to B. Nelson's already to be enlivened, and an Alden #8 full strap that for some inexplicable reason fit slightly tight in the toe box. Taking them to the cobbler tomorrow for width stretching, since I only have an instep streatcher...


the full strap as you know are made on the aberdeen last and that is an nortorious problem with the aberdeen last. i have always been under the impression that proper stretching could take three to seven days to work. good luck and keep us update


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## TheWGP (Jan 15, 2010)

Mac,

Thanks for the comments - I do realize the full strap is on the Aberdeen last and has issues with this, but I have an 11D black full strap and an 11D whiskey monkstrap (the monk is also Aberdeen) and they haven't had that issue. I didn't make it to the cobbler's today, but I do plan to tomorrow. I believe they have me leave the shoes there for about two or three days while they stretch. I'll have to go over there Monday or Tues to pick them up - we move next Saturday, so I'm trying to get all the use out of my tailor, cobbler and drycleaner I can before leaving town! On a related note, now taking applications for those jobs in Columbus, OH!


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## ArtVandalay (Apr 29, 2010)

Picked up 5 Talbot bowties and a Brooks Makers rep today at the Goodwill.


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## Dragoon (Apr 1, 2010)

Alden PTB. Calfskin on the Leydon last. This is a discontinued model on discount at Alden if anybody is interested.


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## ArtVandalay (Apr 29, 2010)

Picked up some gorgeous Florsheim Royal Imperial Longwings in 8.5 D. Pretty sure these are shell. Not even close to being in my size, anybody in the market?


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## srivats (Jul 29, 2008)

Some nice acquisitions in this thread. I broke my vow of "no-more-shoes" with these pair of RL shell darlton wingtips in size 9D.



















9.5D was too big, so I hope they fit me.


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

ArtVandalay said:


> Picked up some gorgeous Florsheim Royal Imperial Longwings in 8.5 D. Pretty sure these are shell. Not even close to being in my size, anybody in the market?


they look like shell


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

srivats said:


> Some nice acquisitions in this thread. I broke my vow of "no-more-shoes" with these pair of RL shell darlton wingtips in size 9D.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


good looking shoes and for your sake, i hope they fit


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

^Great looking shell above.

I'm awaiting a Big Acquisition (in horse hide!), hoping it will be here this week. More soon (I hope).


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## srivats (Jul 29, 2008)

^ Please do post photos! You will love them, I am sure.


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## frosejr (Mar 27, 2010)

A wonderful six-year-old boy...I'm a foster dad!


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

frosejr said:


> A wonderful six-year-old boy...I'm a foster dad!


congratulations!


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

frosejr said:


> A wonderful six-year-old boy...I'm a foster dad!


Congratulations! I guarantee that yours is the best post in this thread this month.


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

ArtVandalay said:


> Picked up some gorgeous Florsheim Royal Imperial Longwings in 8.5 D. Pretty sure these are shell. Not even close to being in my size, anybody in the market?


Shell. Those are my size, but I'm in a no shoe buying period (should have bought those 13D shell imperials and traded you )



srivats said:


>


Great reason to temporarily interrupt your "no-new-shoes" period. The Darltons always look great. Here's hoping they fit!


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## Sir Cingle (Aug 22, 2009)

At the J. Press 40% off sale, I picked up a gray unconstructed jacket (2-button darted with patch pockets):

https://www.jpressonline.com/jackets_casual_detail.php?ix=2


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

Picked up two pairs of Bills Khakis light-weight fine wale cords at a thrift store and a pair of NOS vintage Quoddy bluchers for my wife.


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

AlanC said:


> I'm awaiting a Big Acquisition (in horse hide!), hoping it will be here this week.


Teaser pic:


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## Benson (Aug 28, 2009)

Bill's M2 Poplins
Lambourne moleskins
LE cream linen trousers
LLB bush chino poplins


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## srivats (Jul 29, 2008)

My shell darltons came in today; they fit me OK. 

The heel area is slightly big for my narrow heels, but the forefoot area fits well. I will be wearing on carpet to make sure I am happy with them before I wear them out.


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

These unexpectedly fell into my lap yesterday, RL Polo:


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

Please don't tell me you found those thrifting, Alan. Are they both RL?


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

nephew,

i like what fell into your lap. enjoy wearing. use the procedure


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

What is "the procedure"? It's so vague it almost sounds scary.

Just got in a fabulous BB _Makers_ Golden Fleece blazer from TweedyDon. Perfect "trad blazer" in every way. (Well, okay, it's not doeskin nor does it have a hook vent.) Pictures forthcoming.


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## Pleasant McIvor (Apr 14, 2008)

I say we take up a collection to provide our esteemed moderator with a pair of shells. Doesn't know the procedure.


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

I picked this up last week, couldn't resist. No maker listed, but made in USA. Who knows when I'll ever wear it (I actually wouldn't wear both together, I don't think).


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## srivats (Jul 29, 2008)

^ Alan, the shells look amazing! Great acquisitions. I also like the madras bowtie very much.


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## TheWGP (Jan 15, 2010)

These just came in the mail, a nice arrival in the midst of the chaos of unpacking!


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## ecox (Oct 25, 2009)

Alden shell belt. The color is "burgundy." Sort of halfway in color between #8 (on left) and cigar (on right).


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

TheWGP said:


> These just came in the mail, a nice arrival in the midst of the chaos of unpacking!


Wow! I guess those are a "nice arrival" while you're unpacking.


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

^Wowzer--It's the month for pennies and PTBs!


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## TheWGP (Jan 15, 2010)

Thanks guys - I wasn't really looking to acquire, but the mahogany LHS is too rare to pass up. They're pretty dark, but I personally confirmed the shade with Alden SF via the model number over the phone. The whiskey PTB's were more a situation where a combination purchase made sense, but the reason for the buy was the mahogany!

I suppose I should note that I'm now in the market for less-than-retail-price ravello & cigar LHS in the neighborhood of 11-11.5D-Eish. I'd like to schedule a family portrait. :biggrin:


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

ecox said:


> Alden shell belt. The color is "burgundy." Sort of halfway in color between #8 (on left) and cigar (on right).


Color 6, perhaps?


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

TheWGP said:


> Thanks guys - I wasn't really looking to acquire, but the mahogany LHS is too rare to pass up. They're pretty dark, but I personally confirmed the shade with Alden SF via the model number over the phone. The whiskey PTB's were more a situation where a combination purchase made sense, but the reason for the buy was the mahogany!


Ah...you must have hit Rebel222's big sale - got my Ultimate Indys from him. Glad someone around here landed a pair of the mahogany lhs so the rest of us can admire them on occasion. Were you able to find out anything else about the mahogany? Were they a special color only used on a limited amount of shoes?


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## TheWGP (Jan 15, 2010)

In calling, I wasn't really looking for the history or story behind it so much as just direct confirmation. Tom from LS has said in the past that mahogany is his favorite shell color and he wishes they still produced it. I'm not 100% clear on WHY the switch was made, but the impression I've gotten is that ravello was meant to be a replacement for mahogany. There are others who could explain far more than I about this - but at this point, it looks like mahogany shell is the proverbial needle in a haystack - especially in new without box but with bags/trees shape! I would be lying if I said the prospect of resale didn't occur to me, but I'm really interested in making the rainbow in LHS, though I'm going to bastardize it by lumping the BB model in with the Alden model.

Edit: Just called again and verified that they are indeed 100% mahogany and that they haven't been made in several years. There are others who can probably tell much more about the history behind it... I'm going to call the factory tomorrow in an effort to figure out the age of this particular pair, per the Alden Shop guy's suggestion - I'm curious since they're in mint unworn shape, but definitely have some slight departures from the "current Aldens" I have and have seen on the fora - no idea if it's a slow design thing over time or just random differences on this pair.

And yes, you got me Cards - these weren't thrift finds, sadly! Speaking of which, I found a Hermes tie today and a Luciano Barbera tie - the only two things out of my run of three stores. Anyone live in Columbus, OH and have tips?


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

TheWGP said:


> Thanks guys - I wasn't really looking to acquire, but the mahogany LHS is too rare to pass up. They're pretty dark, but I personally confirmed the shade with Alden SF via the model number over the phone. The whiskey PTB's were more a situation where a combination purchase made sense, but the reason for the buy was the mahogany!
> 
> I suppose I should note that I'm now in the market for less-than-retail-price ravello & cigar LHS in the neighborhood of 11-11.5D-Eish. I'd like to schedule a family portrait. :biggrin:


outstanding acquisitions. enjoy wearing


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

ecox said:


> Alden shell belt. The color is "burgundy." Sort of halfway in color between #8 (on left) and cigar (on right).


good looking belt


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## srivats (Jul 29, 2008)

TheWGP said:


> These just came in the mail, a nice arrival in the midst of the chaos of unpacking!


Alden Mahogany is a RARE bird. Fantastic purchase - but now you have to promise to show these two pairs to us frequently as they age!



ecox said:


> Alden shell belt. The color is "burgundy." Sort of halfway in color between #8 (on left) and cigar (on right).


The photographt on AAAC has become outstanding of late. I can stare at this photo all day. What an advertisement for the beauty of shell cordovan!

Great acquistions gentlemen!


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## Taken Aback (Aug 3, 2009)

Not sure why I'm posting...it's slim pickings again.

Just some thrifted shirts from BB, Gitman, LLB and E. Bauer. Grabbed a Dillard's Daniel Cremieux sport coat at Daffy's, and ordered another LE belt.

I need a shoe find.


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## P Hudson (Jul 19, 2008)

Just opened the mail bag to find this, thanks to our own Benson at the Exchange. It's my first three piece suit: a 3/2 sack with great shoulders and a center vent.



The fit is good except below the knee, where it gets rather wide. I'll ask my tailor to lengthen the sleeves half an inch and narrow the pants. After that, all it should need is cleaning and pressing.


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## Sir Cingle (Aug 22, 2009)

Nice suit, PHud! I agree with your assessments regarding alterations. When they're done, the suit should look fantastic.


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

Good looking suit - a three-piece 3/2 sack is a tough find. Congratulations!


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

A 3 piece glen plaid suit - great score! And the maker is ...?


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

P Hudson said:


> Just opened the mail bag to find this, thanks to our own Benson at the Exchange. It's my first three piece suit: a 3/2 sack with great shoulders and a center vent.
> 
> The fit is good except below the knee, where it gets rather wide. I'll ask my tailor to lengthen the sleeves half an inch and narrow the pants. After that, all it should need is cleaning and pressing.
> 
> looks very nice. enjoy wearing


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## P Hudson (Jul 19, 2008)

The Rambler said:


> A 3 piece glen plaid suit - great score! And the maker is ...?


Thanks for the comments, friends. The ONLY indicator or source is the breast tag stating "Learbury Authentic Style, Syracuse-New York". I assume that refers to the shop rather than the maker. I also assume that the suit dates from the 1970s based on the flaired trousers. Apart from that, all I know is that Benson found it at Goodwill and was good enough to post it to me here.

It is skeleton lined and flannel-ish.


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## Bermuda (Aug 16, 2009)

a few items
Masonic tie bar (I just joined)









BB Yellow Oxford









Paisley tie by Banbury Cross


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## Bermuda (Aug 16, 2009)

P Hudson - I used to live in Syracuse and I believe that store does not exist anymore. Pretty cool that the suit is from there though


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## Reptilicus (Dec 14, 2004)

2 pair of Bill's lightweight poplins that I had cuffed an inch and a half too short by mistake.








Currently available on the trad thrift store exchange. A pair of Alden unlined chukkas, and a swingin' pair of madras pants from CapeMadras.


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## tiesmith (Mar 3, 2010)

TheWGP said:


> In calling, I wasn't really looking for the history or story behind it so much as just direct confirmation. Tom from LS has said in the past that mahogany is his favorite shell color and he wishes they still produced it. I'm not 100% clear on WHY the switch was made, but the impression I've gotten is that ravello was meant to be a replacement for mahogany. There are others who could explain far more than I about this - but at this point, it looks like mahogany shell is the proverbial needle in a haystack - especially in new without box but with bags/trees shape! I would be lying if I said the prospect of resale didn't occur to me, but I'm really interested in making the rainbow in LHS, though I'm going to bastardize it by lumping the BB model in with the Alden model.
> 
> Edit: Just called again and verified that they are indeed 100% mahogany and that they haven't been made in several years. There are others who can probably tell much more about the history behind it... I'm going to call the factory tomorrow in an effort to figure out the age of this particular pair, per the Alden Shop guy's suggestion - I'm curious since they're in mint unworn shape, but definitely have some slight departures from the "current Aldens" I have and have seen on the fora - no idea if it's a slow design thing over time or just random differences on this pair.
> 
> And yes, you got me Cards - these weren't thrift finds, sadly! Speaking of which, I found a Hermes tie today and a Luciano Barbera tie - the only two things out of my run of three stores. Anyone live in Columbus, OH and have tips?


WGP, where did you find the Mahogany LHS? never saw them before and might be an alternative to hard to find Ravello!


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## TheWGP (Jan 15, 2010)

tiesmith said:


> WGP, where did you find the Mahogany LHS? never saw them before and might be an alternative to hard to find Ravello!


 From a seller on SF - they're even harder to find than Ravello, I'm sorry to say. They went out of production a few years back, I believe Alden replaced them with Ravello. Put it this way - MAC says he doesn't have a pair of these! Saw your post on the LHS thread and sorry to say the pair I have is the identical pair there - those pictures are the SF seller's. Apparently the same seller sold a pair of mahogany LHS a couple of years ago on SF, and someone said a pair appeared on Ebay several years ago, but mahogany anything is rare as passenger-pigeon feathers - which is to say they still exist, but good luck finding one. They're awesome shoes, though.

Aaaand that's my AAAC-after-dinner-time for tonight!


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## WillisGeigerFan (Apr 24, 2007)

My acquisitions were courtesy of our friends at Barneys NY:

https://www.barneys.com/Buck/500295491,default,pd.html

https://www.barneys.com/Wingtip%20Boot/500296696,default,pd.html


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

TheWGP said:


> From a seller on SF - they're even harder to find than Ravello, I'm sorry to say. They went out of production a few years back, I believe Alden replaced them with Ravello. Put it this way - MAC says he doesn't have a pair of these! Saw your post on the LHS thread and sorry to say the pair I have is the identical pair there - those pictures are the SF seller's. Apparently the same seller sold a pair of mahogany LHS a couple of years ago on SF, and someone said a pair appeared on Ebay several years ago, but mahogany anything is rare as passenger-pigeon feathers - which is to say they still exist, but good luck finding one. They're awesome shoes, though.
> 
> Aaaand that's my AAAC-after-dinner-time for tonight!


another 33 days to your next post. good luck!


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## Benson (Aug 28, 2009)

Learbury was a trad shop in Syracuse that was bought and subsequently closed by a men's store that takes its cues from Kenneth Cole. I see a lot of their suits in the second hand shops of central NY, particularly the church thrifts. 

PHudson, I hope your tailor is able to tighten those flared legs (I'm not sure how those got by me, the leg opening seemed within range to me), and if not do let me know. I would hate to think that our exchange ended in disappointment for you.


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

A "new" suit that just arrived - it's a vintage BB "346" (the good one) 3/2 sack suit in solid navy with all the fixin's: 2 button cuffs, half-lined, completely natural shoulder, fully canvassed, etc. Purchased the suit from one of the good guys on SF - perfect measurements. No alterations necessary except I need to drop the hem a little, add faux cuffs, and add suspender buttons.

https://img196.imageshack.us/i/picture001tu.jpg/
Uploaded with ImageShack.us


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

an elegant suit,Cards: the lines are not all that sackish.


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

Thanks, Rambler - I always like a bit more shape in my sack jackets, especially suit jackets.

The BB shape is pretty similar to most of my jackets. Here's a Majer 3/2 sack camel hair jacket that shows my average fit (sorry about the ripple under the right arm, but I think it's from the way I stand when taking pics).


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

The ripple could also be caused by a low right shoulder. I have that problem, and most of my jackets ripple like that. It's a telltale sign.


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

Orgetorix said:


> The ripple could also be caused by a low right shoulder. I have that problem, and most of my jackets ripple like that. It's a telltale sign.


O: I like your "signature" thingy very much (have never read Flusser): tnsil as cutting edge, not conservative and old-manish!


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

Orgetorix said:


> The ripple could also be caused by a low right shoulder. I have that problem, and most of my jackets ripple like that. It's a telltale sign.


When I look at myself head-on in the mirror I can't see it, but there probably is enough of a lower right shoulder to cause some havoc with my fits. I've never discussed the ripple with my alterations tailor since it doesn't always appear - or is at least less prominent on some of my jackets. I presume it's a pretty easy fix - anything special you point out/explain to your tailor, Orgetorix? Does s/he just add a little padding into the shoulder or try to make some alteration on the side seam?


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## TweedyDon (Aug 31, 2007)

frosejr said:


> A wonderful six-year-old boy...I'm a foster dad!


Wonderful--congratulations!


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

Cardinals5 said:


> When I look at myself head-on in the mirror I can't see it, but there probably is enough of a lower right shoulder to cause some havoc with my fits. I've never discussed the ripple with my alterations tailor since it doesn't always appear - or is at least less prominent on some of my jackets. I presume it's a pretty easy fix - anything special you point out/explain to your tailor, Orgetorix? Does s/he just add a little padding into the shoulder or try to make some alteration on the side seam?


Cards, if I may jump in, a very little extra padding does the trick for me with my lower left; but, I don't recall seeing anything that pronounced on your other pics: and who knows what the previous owner did - why, I've even heard of instances of guys trying to remove their shoulder pads!


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

A friend of mine used to do that with his suits, but in all fairness he had very square shoulders.


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

But not by himself? If so, he has great skill. We see reports of guys trying it themselves here, but usually with little success. I've seen older jackets with no padding, of course, some Hiltons, for example. Looks great if you've got the conformation for it. For me, the tailor's art is to hide my various little non conformations, without it appearing he has done so :icon_smile_wink:


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

By himself with a seam ripper. I run the risk of looking like a string bean if I have no padding whatsoever.


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## Bermuda (Aug 16, 2009)

Stafford yellow short sleeved oxford for a few events this summer









New Ralph Lauren black houndstooth pants









new green polo tie


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

Cardinals5 said:


> When I look at myself head-on in the mirror I can't see it, but there probably is enough of a lower right shoulder to cause some havoc with my fits. I've never discussed the ripple with my alterations tailor since it doesn't always appear - or is at least less prominent on some of my jackets. I presume it's a pretty easy fix - anything special you point out/explain to your tailor, Orgetorix? Does s/he just add a little padding into the shoulder or try to make some alteration on the side seam?


Mine shows up worse in some jackets than others, too. Most of them I haven't honestly bothered to spend the money to get it fixed. With the few that I have gotten altered, the tailor just put a little extra padding in the shoulder. It's the easiest and cheapest way of dealing with it.

There is a more complicated procedure that can solve the problem without adding extra padding. IIRC, it's called "picking up" the jacket at the shoulder. Basically, the sleeve is taken off, the shoulder seam opened and some fabric taken in, and then the sleeve is resewn, recutting if necessary to make it fit the now-slightly-smaller armhole. I've never done this because I've never had a jacket with a severe enough ripple on which I was willing to spend the kind of money required for such an extensive operation. Not to mention the fact that I'm not sure I'd trust any of the tailors in my area with the job.

Incidentally, there are several other ways you can diagnose a low shoulder:
- Look for diagonal wrinkles on the back running from the nape of the neck to below the armhole.
- Check and see if the bottom sides of the jacket (below the pockets) rest against your leg on one side and stand away from your hip a bit on the other side. The side with contact is the side with the low shoulder.
- With the jacket unbuttoned, take a deep breath and let it out. Have someone check the position of the waist buttonhole relative to its button. You can use a piece of chalk and put a mark straight through the buttonhole onto the fabric of the opposite side. If the mark is above the button shank, your right shoulder is lower. If it's below the button, your left shoulder is lower. The distance between the mark and the button shank is the amount by which one shoulder is lower than the other. My right shoulder is 1/2" lower than my left.


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## Taken Aback (Aug 3, 2009)

Bermuda said:


> Stafford yellow short sleeved oxford for a few events this summer


If you're going to consider Stafford, rather than eBay, I would suggest visiting a JC Penney. They routinely end up in clearance there and are practically free when combined with in-store promotions/coupons.

PS: Grabbed a FA MacCluer bengal striped broadcloth buttondown at Daffy's too. Really a great shirt.


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

Just realized it's July - so...


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