# AE Leeds Shell Cordovan v. BB Shell Cordovan Blucher



## Foghorn (Feb 2, 2005)

Anyone familiar with any differences between the AE Leeds & BB shell plain toe bluchers? I am also interested in the comparisons on fit between the BB blucher & the AE Leeds.
Thank you,
F


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## paper clip (May 15, 2006)

I have a pair of the BB shell bluchers. As I have found with any shell Aldens I have tried, the 10.5 D fits perfectly. I have not tried on the AE Leeds in shell or otherwise.

I was formerly an 11 in almost all OTR shoes. 

I remain an 11D in calfskin AEs - but I have not tried on any shell AEs.


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## Speas (Mar 11, 2004)

The BB model runs a bit large (the Alden Barrie last) probably want to downsize by a half size. I dont have the Leeds, but the main differences appear to be the storm welt on the Leeds and the eyelets on the BB. I prefer the look of the BB.


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## bigCat (Jun 10, 2005)

Leeds seems to be a replica of Aldens version of plain toe blucher, except it's not as roomy as Alden's model, this is a "gunboat" shoe, and Alden/BB is truer to that concept. 

There have been lengthy discussions on AE vs. Alden in shell cordovan - Alden/BB is a bit better and "classic", but AE at decent discount is still a good value.

Please keep in mind that AE burgundy shell cordovan is slightly different (lighter) from #8 color.


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## longwing (Mar 28, 2005)

Foghorn,

Warning about the BB. Paint can come off eyelets leaving exposed metal. I have a pair and paint started comming off one eyelet after about 6 months. I've gotten used to it. Even kind of like it now, but best to be aware in advance. Agressive brushing is probably the cause. I like that the sole is not as huge as on the longwings. A more compact shoe.


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## JLibourel (Jun 13, 2004)

hreljan said:


> Please keep in mind that AE burgundy shell cordovan is slightly different (lighter) from #8 color.


I don't think so. I am pretty sure that #8 shell is a Horween designation and both companies buy from Horween.

I have a belt in #8 shell that came from neither Alden nor A-E but from my pal Greg Kramer, who buys #8 shell directly from Horween.

It has been suggested that Alden finishes their shell cordovan shoes differently from A-E, and the Brooks-Aldens have seen do indeed look a bit more glossy than the few A-Es I've examined. This may explain the disparity.


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## bigCat (Jun 10, 2005)

JLibourel said:


> I don't think so. I am pretty sure that #8 shell is a Horween designation and both companies buy from Horween.
> 
> I have a belt in #8 shell that came from neither Alden nor A-E but from my pal Greg Kramer, who buys #8 shell directly from Horween.
> 
> It has been suggested that Alden finishes their shell cordovan shoes differently from A-E, and the Brooks-Aldens have seen do indeed look a bit more glossy than the few A-Es I've examined. This may explain the disparity.


The lighter color of AE (and darker for Alden/BB) may be due to just finishing touches. What is interesting is that I have never seen AE reference their shell cordovan color as #8 but always as burgundy. I know that this could be for marketing reasons, since most Alden customers know what #8 means, but most AE customers do not - or - they are trying to differentiate themelves in a way (maybe that's why a different finishing process).


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## JLibourel (Jun 13, 2004)

hreljan said:


> The lighter color of AE (and darker for Alden/BB) may be due to just finishing touches. What is interesting is that I have never seen AE reference their shell cordovan color as #8 but always as burgundy. I know that this could be for marketing reasons, since most Alden customers know what #8 means, but most AE customers do not - or - they are trying to differentiate themelves in a way (maybe that's why a different finishing process).


I'll try to talk to my pal Greg, who buys quantites of of #8 from Horween, tomorrow and see what he knows and has to say. I also have a spiked dog collar in #8 shell but unfortunately no dog at present (sob!)


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## Tenacious Tassel (Sep 11, 2006)

*Curious --*

why are you not considering the straight Alden model?

Kind of off topic, I have AE shoes in burgundy cordovan, and Alden shoes in #8. I MUCH PREFER the Alden cordovan leather. Looks much better IMO. I owned the AE shoes first, and never really understood the cordovan attraction. Once I got my first pair (of what would be many) Alden shell cordovan shoes, it all became clear.

I don't own any of the Alden plain front bluchers, but if you look around, you can find them in 4 stunning cordovan colors: black, #8, ravello, and cigar. The ravello is especially beautiful.

Eric


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

While I have no experience with the BB blutchers, the AE cordovan Leeds are wonderful shoes...properly maintained, they will possibly be lifetime companions. Go with the Leeds


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## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

hreljan said:


> The lighter color of AE (and darker for Alden/BB) may be due to just finishing touches. What is interesting is that I have never seen AE reference their shell cordovan color as #8 but always as burgundy. I know that this could be for marketing reasons, since most Alden customers know what #8 means, but most AE customers do not - or - they are trying to differentiate themelves in a way (maybe that's why a different finishing process).


Horween does produce (or, at least, did produce at one time) another burgundy shell cordovan color called Color #4. It's lighter and more purple-y than Color #8. I have never seen any AE shell cordovan shoes and as such cannot speculate about what accounts for the difference in appearance between their shell cordovan shoes and Alden's, though.


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## well-kept (May 6, 2006)

I own several pairs each of Aldens and AEs in shell cordovan. There is a distinct color difference. 

My most recent purchase were Alden chukkas in number eight. In bright sunlight they appeared when new to have been brushed with at least two layers of color on top of the leather's tanned color - the first a burgundy, the second almost or in fact black. After several months of wear and buffing without any polish, these added colors have largely disappeared, revealing the true color. 

My AE shells when new have been of a more chocolate color and I believe have been free of the superficial color additions. That said, of the nine pair of "burgundy" shells I own, no two are the same, either new or after varying amounts of wear. On balance I prefer the more natural color range of my AEs, just personal taste.


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## spinlps (Feb 15, 2004)

I posted an AE response re: their shell cordovan color a few weeks ago. The AE representative noted that they have always offered a "burgandy" shell cordovan but admitted that the color has slowly grown more cherry colored recently.


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## paper clip (May 15, 2006)

LongWing said:


> Warning about the BB. Paint can come off eyelets leaving exposed metal. I have a pair and paint started comming off one eyelet after about 6 months. I've gotten used to it. Even kind of like it now, but best to be aware in advance. Agressive brushing is probably the cause.


Funny you mention that, LW, I have on my ebayed BB shell bluchers today, and I just noticed that indeed one of the eyelets was missing some paint! I don't think I got them that way, nor had I noticed it before. Perhaps your post made me more susceptible to noticing it. The lace covers it. Perhpas I am tying the shoes too vigorously! I am content not to be bothered by it as I love the shoes fit and appearance so much.


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## JLibourel (Jun 13, 2004)

One point in our discussion of color variations in shell cordovan that we should bear in mind is that shell is much more impermeable than regular leathers. For this reason there is a lot of inconsistency in how they take the dye even from shell to shell.


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## Teacher (Mar 14, 2005)

jcusey said:


> Horween does produce (or, at least, did produce at one time) another burgundy shell cordovan color called Color #4. It's lighter and more purple-y than Color #8. I have never seen any AE shell cordovan shoes and as such cannot speculate about what accounts for the difference in appearance between their shell cordovan shoes and Alden's, though.


The AE's are also #8. However, Alden adds some kind of dye finish after construction; remember the members here (or was it SF?) who posted pics of tack holes in their Alden shells? I think there were two such posts. The purpose of the post was the holes itself, but there was also a VERY noticable red coloration leaking through the tack holes on to the linings, meaning the shoes had been treated late in the manufacturing process. Not that this is better or worse, it just is what it is.


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## Foghorn (Feb 2, 2005)

I had received a B2 gift card, from my parents for my birthday, I actually tried to entice my father to utilize it.... did not want to be rude. Nothing else in the shop seemed aluring. Ordered them from the shoeless Nashville store tonight, they said 2 weeks wait. Sans the gift card, I would have bought AE's. Whomever decided Nashville did not need a selection of shoes at Brooks Bros is, to be generous, a jackass. 
F


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## JLibourel (Jun 13, 2004)

"Whomever...is...a jackass."

Him sure must be!


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## Teacher (Mar 14, 2005)

JLibourel said:


> "Whomever...is...a jackass."
> 
> Him sure must be!


Ah, spoken like a true editor!


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## Foghorn (Feb 2, 2005)

I appreciate the echo & assistance. God save the editors, they keep us from looking like horses' asses.
F


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## JLibourel (Jun 13, 2004)

I know, it's kinda snotty of me, but sometimes I can't help myself!


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