# Vintage Trad Items You'd Like to See



## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

Many of the younger members of the forum, including myself, have never seen or handled some of the older trad clothing items either because the manufacturers closed years ago, sold their name, or moved production overseas.

What trad items would you like to find? This list is not about items you don't have because they're too expensive, but are just difficult to find. If older members can recall any superior brands I'm missing, please also chime in.

Here's my incomplete list

*Shirts*
Sero - must be 100% cotton and Made in USA (I have one, but it's an "irregular")
Eagle Shirtmakers - must be 100% cotton and Made in USA
Wren - specifically a 100% wool shirt
Creighton - any
Hathaway - must be early, 100% cotton, Made in USA
Chipp - (I have one, but it's fraying)
Troy Shirtmakers Guild

*Suits*
Chipp
Norman Hilton (I have sport coats, but would love a suit)
H. Freeman and Son (vintage)

*Shoes*
Nettleton, specifically LB Sheppard longwings

*Sweaters*
Pringle (cashmere)
Alan Paine (shetland)(doesn't really count because they still exist)

*Socks* 
Burlington Gold Cup (obviously would have to be NOS)

*Trousers*
???


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

Cardinals5 said:


> Alan Paine (shetland)(doesn't really count because they still exist)


Paine exists mainly in name only. To my understanding most (all?) of their stuff is made overseas now. The old stuff is what you want. I also highly recommend their cashmere and lambswool.


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## PorterSq (Apr 17, 2008)

My list would include that cool Timex Marlin with the silver face and green numerals.


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## WouldaShoulda (Aug 5, 2009)

Kelly green pants and cords!!


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## Padme (Aug 18, 2009)

*Don Loper ties*

That's the brand I began buying for my husband some years back and I happen to still like them.


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## C. Sharp (Dec 18, 2008)

+1 look for the old tag and the made in england. Shetlands, Tennis sweaters also. Alan paine did allot of contract work so you will see tags that say Alan Paine for the fill in the blank shop. If I can get a good price I buy what ever I can from this maker.



AlanC said:


> Paine exists mainly in name only. To my understanding most (all?) of their stuff is made overseas now. The old stuff is what you want. I also highly recommend their cashmere and lambswool.


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## C. Sharp (Dec 18, 2008)

If you want to see sero shirts and Troy guild shirts look at the customer photos on the O'Connel website. The Madras shirts are sero and the troy guild shirts are marked as such. You will also see embroidered cords that look like ones I have from a firm called English. Some Chipp shirts are Troy guild. Some old J. Press shirts were done by Hathaway. Some other labels you might see on clothes are corbin, majer and cricketer. If you run the rn number on private label stuff you will discover a whole world of contract makers.


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## sjk (Dec 1, 2007)

Suede dirty bucks by Walk-Over.


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## Desk Jockey (Aug 19, 2005)

Unless you mean to say "as an OTR merchant", Chipp does still exist.


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## rsmeyer (May 14, 2006)

Agree with Chipp and the original Norman Hilton. Also Rogers Peet, F.R. Tripler, Jacob Reed's Sons. Of course, Chipp now exists as Winston Tailors.


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

C. Sharp said:


> If you want to see sero shirts and Troy guild shirts look at the customer photos on the O'Connel website. The Madras shirts are sero and the troy guild shirts are marked as such. You will also see embroidered cords that look like ones I have from a firm called English. Some Chipp shirts are Troy guild. Some old J. Press shirts were done by Hathaway. Some other labels you might see on clothes are corbin, majer and cricketer. If you run the rn number on private label stuff you will discover a whole world of contract makers.


Great comments here - I was aware of the Troy Guild for Chipp, but not the Hathaway for Press. I've also seen the original Troy shirts on O'Connells, which I assume are still for sale, but they don't have anything in my size 

I have lots of trousers from both Corbin (as well as summer-weight sacks) and Majer and think they're fantastic quality - one of the few trad items relatively easy to locate in thrifts that have no cache with flippers. Cricketter sport coats and suits I've seen, but haven't yet found one whose pattern grabbed my attention - next time I come across one I'll pay more attention to their construction.



Desk Jockey said:


> Unless you mean to say "as an OTR merchant", Chipp does still exist.


Sorry, I meant OTR since I can't possibly afford bespoke or even MTM.


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

rsmeyer said:


> Agree with Chipp and the original Norman Hilton. Also Rogers Peet, F.R. Tripler, Jacob Reed's Sons. Of course, Chipp now exists as Winston Tailors.


Did Rogers Peet, Tripler, and Jacob Reed's Sons manufacture their own clothing or were they rebranding suits, ocbds, etc., from others?


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## Sir Cingle (Aug 22, 2009)

I think I'd like to see some of the stuff Arthur Adler sold back in the day, though much of it was likely contract work. I have an Adler blazer (actually made by Southwick) that I like very much (thanks, Tweedy!). It'd be nice to happen upon some more Adler stuff.


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## C. Sharp (Dec 18, 2008)

+1 owned a pair loved them. Have been on the eternal hunt for some dead stock in my size. There was a pair up on ebay I think last week dead stock and not my size. The white were nice also here is one off of ebay


sjk said:


> Suede dirty bucks by Walk-Over.


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## C. Sharp (Dec 18, 2008)

I think I would like to see an original 1964 Canterbury surcingle


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## linklaw (Aug 1, 2007)

sjk said:


> Suede dirty bucks by Walk-Over.


I believe I have a pair of these in my closet, bought them new in the box on ebay last year and wore them once. I'll see if I can get a pic and post it. John


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## Max875 (May 22, 2008)

I would like to see the dirty buck chukkas by Walk-Over with the red rubber soles.


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## AldenPyle (Oct 8, 2006)

Above all, I would like to see Brooks go back to making an unlined collar OCBD. I like the cut of Corbin pants best of all, but it would be nice if they would make them in the US again.


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## Brooksfan (Jan 25, 2005)

J. Press Shetland crew neck circa 1978. Navy/white/light blue patches but it wasn't patchwork.


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## jamgood (Feb 8, 2006)

Additional Suggestions:

Tailored Clothing
Sussex
Linnett Ltd.
Lanham Ltd. (this became Polo Tailored Clothing in 1977)
Southwick was the standard of most upscale independent shops, that's not to say it was the best or most expensive, just the standard

Knitwear:
McGeorge
Cox-Moore
Drumohr (seamless plain shaggy & paneled shaggy cable crews)
Ballantyne
There was a plethora of Scottish knitwear
I think some of the vintage Alan Paine may have had 'Godalming' on the label
Kent & Curwen (Eng.)
Braemore
Corgi (Wales) 
Lyle & Scott
Almost any knitwear with a Scottish label.

As you mentioned Nettleton, they made a tassel loafer in British tan the color of AlanC's cap toes (known in Caro. then as farmer's tan or farmer's orange) that had a machine top-sewn lake (vamp) (not skin sewn as with Alden, etc) and split toe that was very popular on southern campuses (campae, campi?). I haven't seen a pair on eBay, but I don't oft look. Throughout the Carolinas, Angelo's in Hickory, NC was known to have the most extensive selection and best prices. There's a shoe store in Greensboro that had them re-created in Spain in the '90s, wrong shade. One digresses.

Trousers:
Corbin & Berle

(Tintin/The Trad should see that Canterbury adv.)


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## srivats (Jul 29, 2008)

Cardinals5 said:


> *Shoes*
> Nettleton, specifically LB Sheppard longwings


Good list ... but small mistake: LB sheppard signature line was made by Hanover, not nettleton. I have a pair of these PTBs and they ROCK. I am still looking for a pair of nettleton longwings ln my size


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

Absolutely right, Sri - my mistake ic12337:. Now my list has to include Hanover LB Sheppard and Nettleton LWBs.


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

Great stuff Jamgood. I have a 3/2 Linett Ltd sack suit for The English Shop in Princeton that's great quality (pick stitching on the lapels, horn buttons, 1/4 lined and nicely finished internal seams) - definitely something I like to see more of. I'll wear it tomorrow and take some pics.

I think I've seen Lanham, but passed over it. I'll keep my eye out.

I've had some McGeorge sweaters, but I'd not heard of Drumohr - their shaggy sweaters sound like something I'd be interested in.

Here's an eBay pic from a sweater vest
https://www.auctiva.com/hostedimage...,328030927,328031012&formats=0,0,0,0&format=0



jamgood said:


> Additional Suggestions:
> 
> Tailored Clothing
> Linnett Ltd.
> ...


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## rsmeyer (May 14, 2006)

Cardinals5 said:


> Did Rogers Peet, Tripler, and Jacob Reed's Sons manufacture their own clothing or were they rebranding suits, ocbds, etc., from others?


Tripler and Peet had their own line as well as others; Jacob Reed's had I believe only others.


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## tonylumpkin (Jun 12, 2007)

sjk said:


> Suede dirty bucks by Walk-Over.


Here's a pair I offered on the Trad Exchange a few weeks ago...nicest dirty bucks I'd ever seen and a damned shame they weren't my size.

[URL="https://]


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## JLWhittington (Aug 20, 2008)

Brooks Brothers chinos--the ones that required hemming.

Gant OCBD shirts.

Double soled longwing and plaintoe shells.


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## TradMichael (Apr 13, 2006)

Padme said:


> That's the brand I began buying for my husband some years back and I happen to still like them.


I find Don Loper ties in the thrifts here quite frequently. I recall he'd also designed some fab 60s space-age ladies suits, too. Oh yes:


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## jamgood (Feb 8, 2006)

Cardinals5 said:


> ....I'd not heard of Drumohr - their shaggy sweaters sound like something I'd be interested in.
> 
> Here's an eBay pic from a sweater vest
> https://www.auctiva.com/hostedimage...,328030927,328031012&formats=0,0,0,0&format=0


Drumohr (Scotland) were THE brushed Shetland maker for NE Ivy shops. They've been defunct for perhaps a decade. Some Itais' acquired the name. Your W. Bill example is vintage. More recent Scottish Drumohr labels were silver on dark blue and featured a Scots piper. W. Bill hasn't had a retail shop for years. I think I've got a pamphlet from the '80s somewhere in the archives.

Langrock was not a maker but you might file the Princeton shop's name in the nether regions of your little grey cells for future reference.


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## C. Sharp (Dec 18, 2008)

Recently on ebay 









jamgood said:


> Drumohr (Scotland) were THE brushed Shetland maker for NE Ivy shops. They've been defunct for perhaps a decade. Some Itais' acquired the name. Your W. Bill example is vintage. More recent Scottish Drumohr labels were silver on dark blue and featured a Scots piper. W. Bill hasn't had a retail shop for years. I think I've got a pamphlet from the '80s somewhere in the archives.
> 
> Langrock was not a maker but you might file the Princeton shop's name in the nether regions of your little grey cells for future reference.


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## phyrpowr (Aug 30, 2009)

Recently saw on the Exchange a Lord Jeff sweater. Alas, too small, but it did bring back the memories: three inch high old english monogram, Gant shirt, Corbin slacks, Gold Cup socks, and Weejun imitations (my Dad wasn't about to spring for the real, more expensive, things, and I was supporting an eight year old Thunderbird)


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## Acacian (Jul 10, 2007)

In general, jackets from old specialty men's stores with great old labels inside.

Oh, and a genuine 1920s flapper girlfriend, sent in a time machine.


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## My Pet. A Pantsuit (Dec 25, 2008)

NoS Florsheim Longwings in tan Scotch grain. I've seen pictures before, but to see them in person would be even better.


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## Pentheos (Jun 30, 2008)

My Pet said:


> NoS Florsheim Longwings in tan Scotch grain. I've seen pictures before, but to see them in person would be even better.


I'm with you here.


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## phyrpowr (Aug 30, 2009)

My Pet said:


> NoS Florsheim Longwings in tan Scotch grain. I've seen pictures before, but to see them in person would be even better.


These became "cool shoe of choice" my senior year of high school(1968), but...refer to "1960 T-Bird" above


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## Patrick06790 (Apr 10, 2005)

It would be nice to find a pile of old stock Weejuns.


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## Joe Beamish (Mar 21, 2008)

Finding old stock Weejuns COULD be a myth-buster, though. (I don't actually know....)


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## 35-Foxtrot (Jun 15, 2008)

I'd love a pair of lime-green cords, like these. And an LL Bean Norwegian, of course.


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## DCLawyer68 (Jun 1, 2009)

Didn't the Norwegian make a comeback? I recall a thread on here to that affect recently.


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## Coleman (Mar 18, 2009)

Yes, it's back - . It's slightly different as it is now 100% wool.


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

The iconic LLB sweater is back, but their older breathern appear on the trad thrift exchange fairly often for $25, which is a fantastic deal. I wear mine at least once a week in the winter.

Foxtrot - those are some serious cords. I can do sky blue cords, but lime green is beyond me.


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## Acacian (Jul 10, 2007)

I literally had a dream last night in which I was sitting in a tavern and a gang of "trads" were menacing me because they envied my LL Bean Norwegian. I was about to fight them for it when I awoke...


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## Coleman (Mar 18, 2009)

Those darn Trad gangs. They've become such a problem that we're having nightmares about them now. When will the gov'ment step in and get these button-down ruffians off the street?


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## Danny (Mar 24, 2005)

35-Foxtrot said:


> I'd love a pair of lime-green cords, like these. And an LL Bean Norwegian, of course.


I got a pair like this from Lands Ends just a couple years ago. So they do pop up.

Regarding the earlier comments about Alan Paine, I got a navy shetland just 2 or 3 years ago and it says MADE IN ENGLAND on it...so at least as of 2007 they were making stuff there.

I like this thread. I'd like to see some of the old Macy's 'Club Room' stuff from back when it was good. Also anything from Britches Great Outdoors...seems pretty rare, and I liked a lot of their merchandise.


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## C. Sharp (Dec 18, 2008)

I would like to a mint in the box never used Chipp Novelty jock

https://www.chipp2.com/blog/?p=22


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## PersianMonarchs (Dec 7, 2005)

*Adler wool socks*

I still have a few all-wool Adler crew socks which I am afraid to wear lest they simply disintegrate (which would be an unfortunate loss of an object d'art and wouldn't look all that sharp either). There's a product I'd like to see return. Somebody made an all wool version up until rather recently, although it wasn't as good as the old Adlers. And if it isn't too much to ask for (this IS the Christmas season, after all), how about the return not just of the white wool crew sock, but the colored ones as well (which Adler also made -- sometimes with a colored tip). Grey (my favorite), red (wore 'em every Christmas season for about 20 years), charcoal, navy, etc., etc. Somebody please bring 'em back!


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## Moose Maclennan (Apr 20, 2006)

Brooks wash and wear poplin sack suits.

One each in charcoal, navy and khaki could replace a whole wardrobe of suits.


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## TradMichael (Apr 13, 2006)

Danny said:


> Also anything from Britches Great Outdoors...seems pretty rare, and I liked a lot of their merchandise.


Glad to see someone mention this. I had a lot of this stuff as a youngin', and haven't seen it sold anywhere in more than a decade. I wore it all out and what's not in the rag bin is back in a storage bin as clothing for painting and yardwork.


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## WouldaShoulda (Aug 5, 2009)

35-Foxtrot said:


> I'd love a pair of lime-green cords, like these. And an LL Bean Norwegian, of course.





WouldaShoulda said:


> Kelly green pants and cords!!


GF is rockin' the 80s too!!


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## C. Sharp (Dec 18, 2008)

Here is the famous Chipp Jock. https://www.ivy-style.com/


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## About Town (Nov 17, 2004)

*Tie weejuns and brown overshoes.*

I had a pair of Bass weejuns in the late 1970's that were i think two eyelet tie shoes.
I liked them a lot. Also, brown overhsoes would be nice. I know SWIMS makes one
but a bit pricey. Have an old pair of brown Tingleys that belonged to an older relative
but they won't last forever


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

I've now seen/purchased some of the vintage items from my original list. I'll post a quality report when I have more time.

Items ticked off my list

Sero shirt
Hathaway shirt
F.R. Tripler (car coat)
Chipp shirt


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## oxford (Feb 24, 2008)

Sawyer Shearling Coats


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

Thrifted a pair of Rogers Peet heavy wool trousers today with a rise of 13.5"! They were made, according to the internal tag, in 1957. Unfortunately, especially since they fit my waist - they're BLACK


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## Coleman (Mar 18, 2009)

^They may be too cool to pass up wearing. It'll be harder than usual to pair them with a complimentary outfit, but you've definitely got what it takes.


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## anselmo1 (Dec 22, 2006)

Nettleton Cordovans--any type
Eagle Shirts---- from the 1960's
Gant Shirts-----from the 1960's
Alain Paine Made in Scotland---Tennis Sweater


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## C. Sharp (Dec 18, 2008)

Do not think I have ever seen a made in Scotland Tennis sweater. Here is a made in England if interested.







made










quote=anselmo1;1042529]Nettleton Cordovans--any type
Eagle Shirts---- from the 1960's
Gant Shirts-----from the 1960's
Alain Paine Made in Scotland---Tennis Sweater[/quote]


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## JDC (Dec 2, 2006)

+1 on the Hathaway shirts.

Aren't those the ones that had three holes on each button instead of four?


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## JimmyG (Jun 10, 2008)

Yes, the Hathaway shirt buttons had three rather than four holes. I worked in a clothing store in the early 70's and we sold Hathaway, Eagle, Sero, Enro and a couple other brands (alas not Gant). It was almost impossible to lose a button on the Hathaway's.


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## C. Sharp (Dec 18, 2008)

J. Press Hathaway on the right. Sold on the exchange in September.

https://img269.imageshack.us/i/forestcarter067.jpg/



anselmo1 said:


> Nettleton Cordovans--any type
> Eagle Shirts---- from the 1960's
> Gant Shirts-----from the 1960's
> Alain Paine Made in Scotland---Tennis Sweater





FrankDC said:


> +1 on the Hathaway shirts.
> 
> Aren't those the ones that had three holes on each button instead of four?


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## momainetx (Jan 2, 2008)

PersianMonarchs said:


> I still have a few all-wool Adler crew socks which I am afraid to wear lest they simply disintegrate (which would be an unfortunate loss of an object d'art and wouldn't look all that sharp either). There's a product I'd like to see return. Somebody made an all wool version up until rather recently, although it wasn't as good as the old Adlers. And if it isn't too much to ask for (this IS the Christmas season, after all), how about the return not just of the white wool crew sock, but the colored ones as well (which Adler also made -- sometimes with a colored tip). Grey (my favorite), red (wore 'em every Christmas season for about 20 years), charcoal, navy, etc., etc. Somebody please bring 'em back!


I second that! The old Adlers from the 1960s in colors, but also in white that after a washing or two turned cream color and were de rigeur with khakis.


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

C. Sharp said:


> J. Press Hathaway on the right. Sold on the exchange in September.


Why, there's even a Hathaway shirt on the exchange now...



C. Sharp said:


> Do not think I have ever seen a made in Scotland Tennis sweater. Here is a made in England if interested


Alan Paine, at least, was always made in England rather than Scotland. I think they are offshore for at least some of their goods now.


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## C. Sharp (Dec 18, 2008)

Great segway to the plug:icon_smile: But all seriousness I am figuring the shirt you have is from 2002 or before since it is American made. Would you agree?

Someone said they wanted to see an Alan Paine from Scotland but I am with you in that I do not think there is such a thing but I am always willing to be proven wrong. The Shetlands were all marked made in England from my experience. There are Tennis sweaters which are marked made in England but like allot of manufacturers they started to make them in Hong Kong at some point. Even those sweaters look good. I will confess side by side I can not tell the difference without looking at the tag. I have not looked at the new offering and most likely will not as long as there is dead stock and gentle used old Paines out there.



AlanC said:


> Why, there's even a Hathaway shirt on the exchange now...
> 
> Alan Paine, at least, was always made in England rather than Scotland. I think they are offshore for at least some of their goods now.


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

Unsure on the Hathaway dating, but you're likely right. 

There is a steady stream of gently used Alan Paine out there to be sure. They also made great cashmere and lambswool sweaters.


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## rl1856 (Jun 7, 2005)

Coleman said:


> Those darn Trad gangs. They've become such a problem that we're having nightmares about them now. When will the gov'ment step in and get these button-down ruffians off the street?


I was accosted by Trad Gang a few days ago....they demanded I submit to a high stakes game of backgammon while sober. The horror...the HORROR !

I wouldn't mind seeing a pink uni stripe BB OCBD.

+1 for BB chinos you have to hem. I still have an old pair or 2 in the back of my closet. Alas they no longer fit and my son doesn't care for the traditional rise. The fabric was at least of the same weight as Bills M1.

+1 for Walkover dirty bucks. Best wearing buck shoe I ever owned.


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

Finally got my little paws on a pair of Hanover LB Sheppard shell cordovan longwings. I'd have to say that they might be slightly overrated vis-a-vis Florsheim shells. I also have a pair of Florsheim Royal Imperial shell cordovan longwings and the built quality of the Florsheims is noticebly better. 

The Hanovers have a calfskin tounge, more blobby last, the brouging on the longwing is two pieces of shell instead of one thereby introducing extra stitching, and the overall stitching holding the various pieces of the shoe together is significantly less than the Florsheim royal imperials. Overall, a very solid shoe, but not quite up to the standards of the Royal Imperial line. Now I just have to find some Nettleton shells :icon_smile_big:


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

I finally got my little hands on a vintage BB ocbd (from TonyLumpkin) and here's my report.

The shirt probably falls somewhere in the late 1960s because it lacks the care label required by the Federal Trade Commission starting in 1971, but does have a front chest pocket meaning that it's not from the late 1950s-early 1960s when Brooks ocbds did not have a chest pocket.

Here's a label from the 1950s (pic generously supplied by Rojo and posted by Qwerty in my previous thread about Brooks unlined collars)









Here's the label from my shirt

The shirt only has six front buttons meaning that when the top button is unbuttoned more neck is visible and it seems to have a positive effect on the appearance of the collar.

Not surprising, the collar is completely unlined and demonstrates the classic BB collar roll.

What did surprise me was the length of the front apron and back tail - both highlighted by the very short side seam, which just is just barely tucked into my trousers. The length of the front and back, however, seems to hold the shirt firmly in place. There is also very little danger of the shirt coming untucked because the arm holes are admirably high - I can almost make the touchdown sign before there's any vertical pull on the shirt.

Despite rumors that Brooks shirts were always quite baggy, this one, while not "trim" also doesn't strike me as particularly baggy or boxy.

(yes, the sleeves are a bit too long, but I'll just be wearing this casually and only rarely for fun)

Overall, the classic Brooks obcd deserves its reputation as one of the best rtw shirts made by a large manufacturer. I've now tried vintage Gitman Bros., Hathaway, Sero, Troy Shirtmakers, and Gant and, quite honestly, none of them match old Brooks quality (Troy comes a close second, but my experience may be off because I've only tried one pinpoint shirt).

I have not tried a vintage Press yet because I have been unable to locate one - if anyone has an old beater they no longer want, I'm certainly willing to pay for postage and then promise a write up.


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## Brooksfan (Jan 25, 2005)

Cardinal 5- Great post on the BB vintage shirt. Wish they would go back to making them exactly like the one in the pics. Someday, maybe? 

Incidentally, those are great khakis in the picture. Who made them?


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## icky thump (Feb 2, 2008)

Eagle suits


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

Brooksfan said:


> Cardinal 5- Great post on the BB vintage shirt. Wish they would go back to making them exactly like the one in the pics. Someday, maybe?
> 
> Incidentally, those are great khakis in the picture. Who made them?


We can only hope BB would go back to such a style - if they did I'd switch out almost all of my solids.

The khakis are rather cheap LL Bean chamois-lined chinos - the ones with the yellowish chamois color lining. The external fabric is made of a cotton/poly blend. They, too, are vintage and I like them for their long rise and the softness of the lining - I think I have three pairs. They can sometimes be had on eBay in NOS condition for less than $20.

Here's the newer version, which I think is cut slightly roomier than the originals and has a slightly shorter rise.
https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/18584?parentCategory=504826&feat=504826-tn&cat4=502921


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## Bradford (Dec 10, 2004)

Cardinals5 said:


> Norman Hilton (I have sport coats, but would love a suit)


I have a Norman Hilton suit that I found in a thrift shop about two years ago. It seems to be from the 60's or 70's and it is darted, not a sack, but the quality is very good and it still looks great today. In fact I wear it to work quite often. I definitely encourage you to keep looking.

Personally, I would like to find a good pair of heavy white flannels. I'm not sure what the classic brands were, but just about any pair in wool with a classic cut would be nice to find at this point.


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## oldschoolprep (Jun 21, 2007)

*Soutwick Cavalry Twill, Tweed and Donegal Suits*

A native of the northern climate above I-90 for most of my life, I have always been a fan of Southwick suits made of sturdy tweed, cavalry twill or donegal fabric that enable one to endure chill of winter in both style and comfort.

Had a three piece taupe cavalry twill in the Douglas model from a trad shop in Connecticut (Allen Collins?), a tan Donegal custom made by Southwick for Brooks and another Dogulas in a heavy grey tweed herringbone from the Red Barn that are among my alltime favorites.

Unfortunately, they seem to have vanished from the market over the past decade or so, evidence of the increasing migration south and west or slobbing of America no doubt.

Other than J. Press, which often stocks some nice Magee Donegals, any insights on other sources of supply - off the rack in lieu of custom?

Thanks.


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## AldenPyle (Oct 8, 2006)

Cardinals5 said:


> I finally got my little hands on a vintage BB ocbd (from TonyLumpkin) and here's my report.
> 
> The shirt probably falls somewhere in the late 1960s because it lacks the care label required by the Federal Trade Commission starting in 1971, but does have a front chest pocket meaning that it's not from the late 1950s-early 1960s when Brooks ocbds did not have a chest pocket.
> 
> ...


Great post. You should start a new thread comparing vintage shirts!


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

AldenPyle said:


> Great post. You should start a new thread comparing vintage shirts!


Good idea, AP, I think I will - it'll take me a little while longer to get rolling though.


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## PJC in NoVa (Jan 23, 2005)

Sir Cingle said:


> I think I'd like to see some of the stuff Arthur Adler sold back in the day, though much of it was likely contract work. I have an Adler blazer (actually made by Southwick) that I like very much (thanks, Tweedy!). It'd be nice to happen upon some more Adler stuff.


I still have a pair of Alden tassel loafers from Adler's. AA was a small, main-street-style men's store with, eventually, two locations (downtown DC above Farragut North Metro, and on Wisconsin Avenue in MD just north of Friendship Heights). I owned several of their suits, which I'm fairly sure were Southwicks. Their Troy Guild shirts and Robt. Talbott ties were nice as well.

I miss Troy Guild shirts (which came from upstate NY), and would love to see the reappearance of the stud-fastened tab collar that Eagle Shirtmakers used to produce in Pennsylvania.


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## sjk (Dec 1, 2007)

Cardinals5 said:


> The shirt only has six front buttons meaning that when the top button is unbuttoned more neck is visible and it seems to have a positive effect on the appearance of the collar.


An alternative explanation would be that the BB OCBD with the 6 button front most likely dates from an era when the idea of wearing the shirt open collar would be remote. With a shirt that would almost inevitably be worn with a tie, using 6 buttons to close the front instead of 7 would be cheaper also. (I don't disagree that the 6 button opening makes the longer collar points look better.)


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## eris (Mar 31, 2008)

I would think that it's because shirts were definitely tucked in back then, always. Notice how high the lowest button sits, if you wore that untucked, people could probably see you belly button. Same on a vintage hathaway I have...


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## Taken Aback (Aug 3, 2009)

WouldaShoulda said:


> Kelly green pants and cords!!





Danny said:


> I got a pair like this from Lands Ends just a couple years ago. So they do pop up.
> 
> Regarding the earlier comments about Alan Paine, I got a navy shetland just 2 or 3 years ago and it says MADE IN ENGLAND on it...so at least as of 2007 they were making stuff there.
> 
> I like this thread. I'd like to see some of the old Macy's 'Club Room' stuff from back when it was good. Also anything from Britches Great Outdoors...seems pretty rare, and I liked a lot of their merchandise.


The Gap (!) has had kelly green cords, but I bumped this to echo the respect for Britches. Their fleece-lined cord workshirt was top-notch. A great sub for a fall jacket.


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## NCJackson (Dec 19, 2008)

I'm waiting for the return of the buckle back chino.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

If I had a time machine...

I would go back and buy a dozen pairs of Cole Haan dress shoes (the "green label" ones which were made in the USA and better than anything AE or Alden sells today).

https://img718.imageshack.us/i/vintagecolehaan001.jpg/
https://img718.imageshack.us/i/vintagecolehaan002.jpg/


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## Pgolden (May 13, 2006)

Patrick06790 said:


> It would be nice to find a pile of old stock Weejuns.


+1000


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## JLWhittington (Aug 20, 2008)

*B2 Batiste Popover Short Sleeve Shirt*

Does anyone else remember these? Great summer shirts, I had yellow, white, blue.....


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## RedBluff (Dec 22, 2009)

Hobnail pants, are they TRAD?
Munsingwear had some on a model in a GQ ad a few months ago.
Nothing in their online catalog and my email to them went unanswered.
I like the look as an alternative to corduroy.


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

NCJackson said:


> I'm waiting for the return of the buckle back chino.


I think RRL sells them.


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## chacend (Mar 4, 2008)

Doctor Damage said:


> If I had a time machine...
> 
> I would go back and buy a dozen pairs of Cole Haan dress shoes (the "green label" ones which were made in the USA and better than anything AE or Alden sells today).


Really? Anyone else share that quality sentiment?


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

I have an olivey gab Majer suit that is about as trad-looking as it gets, hooked center vent, welted seams, patch pockets, just super quality, but starting to go after many years. I know majer pants are still around, but has anyone come across one of their suits in a shop?


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

C. Sharp said:


> I think I would like to see an original 1964 Canterbury surcingle


Is this the Canterbury belt you were looking for, C. Sharp? This is vintage one sold at a "University Shop" in a size 34 currently on eBay (). The picture you originally posted has been removed and I can't remember which one you were looking for.


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## C. Sharp (Dec 18, 2008)

Yes. Thank You much. Here is the original ad that I first linked to 

I think some of the folks at FNB had some photos up of some of the other varations of Canterbury.


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## charphar (Nov 13, 2006)

My l short list...


 Gant OCBD shirts
 LL Bean Fisherman's Sweater
 REAL Made-in-Maine Bass Weejuns!!!!!:cool2:


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## PersianMonarchs (Dec 7, 2005)

I'd like to see some pullover woven shirts. 

I still have a couple of Gant pullover shirts -- a couple of madras and 2 or 3 summer weight oxfords with short sleeves. When I clean out the closets I expect suitable rave reviews on the Thrift Exchange thread.


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## rl1856 (Jun 7, 2005)

Troy Guild Shirts, with fabric by R&O Hawick. Best shirts I ever wore; loved the fit, collar, feel of the fabric etc. I know that O'Connells has a selection of NOS, but none in my size in a pattern I like.

Best,

Ross


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## PersianMonarchs (Dec 7, 2005)

. . . unfortunately, the O'Connells Troy shirts (at least the ones I have purchased) turn out to have short point collars (presumably from the late 80s, or whenever it was that the menswear industry took another stab at aping the womenswear custom of changing hemlines to induce/compel customers to replace perfectly good clothes that were now "out of fashion" with new ones that were "in fashion").


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

rl1856 said:


> I wouldn't mind seeing a pink uni stripe BB OCBD.











https://www.etsy.com/listing/665923...arch_query=Brooks+Brothers&ga_search_type=all


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

Mainly dug up this old thread since I finally found an older Canterbury belt (posted by Pujin in the eBay thread)

1964 Canterbury ad



Obviously it's not from 1964, but it seems a fairly decent representative of older and better Canterbury surcingles (that's seen plenty of action)


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## Joe Beamish (Mar 21, 2008)

fair isle sweaters -- old enough to be the real deal AND not overly bulky in cut. Can be vests.

and sixties watches too.


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## Brooksfan (Jan 25, 2005)

Reversible overcoat-dark tan cotton raincoat on one side, grey herringbone topcoat on the other. Press sold them, Brooks used to have them, and if I'm not mistaken they were made in Ireland. Haven't seen one recently but would love to find one again.


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

Brooksfan said:


> Reversible overcoat-dark tan cotton raincoat on one side, grey herringbone topcoat on the other. Press sold them, Brooks used to have them, and if I'm not mistaken they were made in Ireland. Haven't seen one recently but would love to find one again.


Like so...it's a BB size 40









Here's another one, also BB size 40


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