# Has anyone successfully tailored 44R suit to a 44S?



## trainrdt (Jun 9, 2008)

Hello Gentlemen, Allow me to introduce myself. I am Ralph, my handle is trainrdt, and this is my first post. I am 55 y/o, a 44 Short, @200 lbs. I have always been interested in fine clothing, but only recently have I begun to invest in them. 

Since I am very much a rookie, and rarely find a suit in my size at STP, I asked the advice of my long time tailor if I could purchase three beautiful Sammy suits OTR (two Austins, one Douglas, all stripes) in size 44R from STP and, could tailor to my size and shape. 

He assured me that he could for a relatively small investment. As he has done beautiful alterations for me over the years, I went with it. Yesterday, I sought a second opinion from Sartoria in Buckingham, which carries MTM Sammys. He said that the result could be a "chopped" suit. 

Have any of you done this how did it work out? I can return the suits but it would be a shame since I got a great deal on closeouts plus an extra 20% off. Best regards, Ralph


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## Reddington (Nov 15, 2007)

trainrdt said:


> Hello Gentlemen, Allow me to introduce myself. I am Ralph, my handle is trainrdt, and this is my first post. I am 55 y/o, a 44 Short, @200 lbs. I have always been interested in fine clothing, but only recently have I begun to invest in them.
> 
> Since I am very much a rookie, and rarely find a suit in my size at STP, I asked the advice of my long time tailor if I could purchase three beautiful Sammy suits OTR (two Austins, one Douglas, all stripes) in size 44R from STP and, could tailor to my size and shape.
> 
> ...


Hello Trainrdt -

Welcome to AAAT. Glad you're here.

I have never done this sort of operation; however, I did once entertain the thought of converting a 40L into a 40R. However, others on this forum pointed out that once shortened, the buttons and buttonholes would be lower than is normally acceptable on a blazer / sport coat. 

Bottom-line (for me anyway), is don't spend your money on the alternations, but wait until you find your size. 

Cheers.


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## tripreed (Dec 8, 2005)

Hey, Ralph. Being the only other 44S on here (as far as I know), I will say that I have no actually done this operation myself. I have considered it, but never gone through with it. While I don't think it is impossible, I think it is kind of a suit-by-suit basis in which some might work out better than others. Also, I would only take it to the most competent tailor that I can find. Good luck, and welcome to the forum.


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## Ron_A (Jun 5, 2007)

I also am a "short", and have had suit coats shortened. I actually am a 48S, and basically have to do this by necessity (try finding a suit in 48S). 

The suit coats that I've had shortened -- and, keep in mind, they cannot be shortened too much -- have turned out okay. I haven't noticed an issue with the buttons and buttonholes being lower than is acceptable or the "chopped suit" effect. Again, though, most tailors will advise you that you cannot take too much off the bottom of a coat or it will effect the "curvature" of the front of the coat at the bottom (where the front of the coat, below the lapels, meets the bottom -- if this makes sense). I'd say the maximum you can shorten a coat is about 1" to 1 1/4", from what I've been told, but it does make a world of difference.


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## bandofoutsiders (Jul 26, 2007)

In my experience, this can be done, but with a few caveats. 
1. if the sleeves do not have working buttonholes, then the sleeves can be shortened without difficulty.
2. Shortening the body of a jacket really depends on how much you wish to shorten it. Say the length of a 44L jacket is 33 inches from the top of the collar in the back to the bottom hem. I wouldn't advise shortening any more than 1.5 inches, otherwise the button stance will look off balance. An inch or so shouldn't pose any problems, although it can be an expensive operation. 

I had this done to an old tweed jacket and it looked fine.


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## SuitUP (Feb 8, 2008)

tripreed said:


> Hey, Ralph. Being the only other 44S on here (as far as I know)


Hey, I am actually a 43S but depending on the maker I can wear 44S. BB's GF for instance I take a 44S. But HSM GT I can sort of fit into a 42S. JAB I am a solid 44S.



tripreed said:


> While I don't think it is impossible, I think it is kind of a suit-by-suit basis in which some might work out better than others. Also, I would only take it to the most competent tailor that I can find.


+1. Definitely a case by case matter. I have shorted 2 or 3 suits and 2 came out great. 1 came out horrible, IMO, although the couple times I have worn it I get compliments on it.


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## 32rollandrock (May 1, 2008)

I also wear a 44S (occasionally a 44R, depending on maker) and it's worked for me. It isn't cheap, and your tailor has to be top notch. I've had as much as two inches taken, which is pushing it. Folks on this forum might notice it, but no one else does.


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## PittDoc (Feb 24, 2007)

As a 42S I've always been advised against shortening, especially if you care about the coat looking "just right" and by the sounds of it, the OP is in that category.

While I'm sure the prices at STP are hard to beat, buying one "just right" suit seems smarter than two Frankenstein suits. 

I've had reasonable luck shopping the sales at the larger men's stores in NYC like BB, Saks, BG, Paul Stuart, or Boyd's (Philly). It just takes a lot of patience. I just picked up a 42S Oxxford at 60% off at a local high-end store that couldn't fit better if it was MTM. Why risk wasting money and time?


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## HunterH (Jun 25, 2008)

*Weight*

I take a 48 regular myself at 5'11" 242 lbs--short thick legs to boot. What do you tip the scales at my good man in a 48 short?

Hunter

w


Ron_A said:


> I also am a "short", and have had suit coats shortened. I actually am a 48S, and basically have to do this by necessity (try finding a suit in 48S).
> 
> The suit coats that I've had shortened -- and, keep in mind, they cannot be shortened too much -- have turned out okay. I haven't noticed an issue with the buttons and buttonholes being lower than is acceptable or the "chopped suit" effect. Again, though, most tailors will advise you that you cannot take too much off the bottom of a coat or it will effect the "curvature" of the front of the coat at the bottom (where the front of the coat, below the lapels, meets the bottom -- if this makes sense). I'd say the maximum you can shorten a coat is about 1" to 1 1/4", from what I've been told, but it does make a world of difference.


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## NoVaguy (Oct 15, 2004)

if you do this, i suggest getting suits with higher button placement and higher gorges, and thus proportionally longer skirts, such that the proportions don't get too whacked out. you want to look for something that won't look off with 1 to 2 inches hacked off the bottom.


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## Untilted (Mar 30, 2006)

generally not worth it. unless it has higher than normal button stance (such as a sack)


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## Andy M (May 12, 2007)

Numerous times I have had successful suit jacket shortening done by an expert tailor who makes all appropriate adjustments. The caveat being, he has been a tailor for over 40 years and does excellent work. 

Andy M.


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## Ron_A (Jun 5, 2007)

HunterH said:


> I take a 48 regular myself at 5'11" 242 lbs--short thick legs to boot. What do you tip the scales at my good man in a 48 short?
> 
> Hunter
> 
> w


Since you asked, I am around 5'7" and currently am about 230 lbs. -- maybe a little heavier. I mainly need a size 48 coat due to the fact that my chest and shoulders are overdeveloped from a lot lifting in college (seemed like a good idea at the time). Of course, I have put on some additional weight since then due to working at a desk job, etc. I'd really like to get down to a 44S or 46S -- it would be much easier to buy suits.


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## trainrdt (Jun 9, 2008)

Thank you all for your insightful opinions. I think the advice I got from a local bespoke tailor, to bring them in, try them on, if it will work, we'll do it, if not, you can always send them back. I am in process of building a wardrobe and this addiction has gotten unexpected intense. I am scanning a dozen websites a day deal-hunting. It is wearing me out. Perhaps I will step back and take it a step at a time. My wife is starting to get concerned, expecting me to walk in the door after work each day with a bag or two of shirts and ties from a recent jaunt. Truth be told, I am having more fun than I have had in years. I just turned 55 and was bitten quite suddenly by the satorial mosquito. Cheers gentlemen. -Ralph


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## tintin (Nov 19, 2004)

Buying clothes is about the most fun you can have with your clothes on. Seriously, Despos shortned a 44L Brooks Bros Tartan Dinner Jacket from 1944 for me. He told me the trick was not to take too much off the botton due to the pocket flaps.

Chris also charged me a small fortune but it looks great. As you've heard here, take it to the best tailor you can. In NYC, I can throw a shoe out the window and hit five fantastic tailors. In Florida, it's a real problem...

Welcome to a noble obsession.

www.thetrad.blogspot.com


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## swb120 (Aug 9, 2005)

Ralph - stop now while you can...before it's too late!!! Your savings account will thank you, and your friends won't shoot quizzical looks your way when you talk about brogueing on your captoe shoes, canvassed suits, and why American Trad is superior to all other sartorial expressions!


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