# 20s/College Trad/Ivy/TNSIL minimalist look



## raincoat (Oct 31, 2009)

Haven't been on AAAC in a while but I remember several threads about how difficult dressing trad/ivy/tnsil in your 20s is. It is especially difficult to dress in this style at a young age without appearing showy or ostentatious. Here's an everything you need so you don't spend unnecessary amounts of money because you're young and poor and don't want to _look like_ you care too much basic list (heavily indebted to Boyer's "A Curmudgeon's Lament"):

3 blue OCBD
3 white OCBD
3 other shirts (including at least one or two dress dress shirts)

1 pair of jeans
1 pair of flat front cuffed (>= 1.5") khakis
1 other pair of casual pants/trousers
I wear my jeans and khakis multiple times before washing. I don't think it's gross but sorry if it is.

sack blazer
sack tweed jacket
sack darkish gray flannel suit

Mocs (boat shoes, bluchers, camp mocs, etc.)
Weejuns (or similar, current Weejun quality doesn't bother me as much as it does some)
Black Oxfords (more formal) or black/dark brown brogues (less formal) for the suit

1 fleece jacket or pullover
2-3 wool sweaters (shetland, ragg wool, norwegian)
1 coat or weather jacket (barbour, bean's barn coat)

1 surcingle (I like blue/khaki, blue, or khaki)
1 brown leather belt
1 belt to match the dress shoes

OCBD boxer shorts to last a week
plain white t-shirts to last a week
navy blue cotton socks to last a week
several pairs of navy blue wool dress socks

less than a handful of ties (striped repp, dotted, conservative patterns)

Pretty sure this would meet any occasion. Everyday very casual: ocbd with jeans, surcingle, mocs. Sunday nice: ocbd with khakis, blazer or tweed, weejuns. Theater/symphony/city: ocbd with gray flannel suit trousers, tweed or blazer, weejuns. Wedding/Funeral: gray flannel suit with dress shoes.

Mostly just thinking aloud here, but that's my list. Did I leave anything out? This wouldn't really work if you had to dress well for work but it's not really a list for people who have jobs like that.

Something to remember here: my intentions were a functional and nice wardrobe influenced by the past, not to recreate an era. If the inclusion of jeans and fleece bothers you, wearing khakis and a jacket all the time is not casual anymore. I realize it used to be. I wish it was the same as it was. It's not. Being overdressed for everything goes against the main principle of this trad/ivy/tnsil look: you should not be recognized by your clothing.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

The only thing I'd add would be another pair of khakis or two. I also get a few wears before washing when the weather is cool, but it's still nice to rotate the various shades of khaki.


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## kevinbelt (Dec 2, 2007)

I'm pretty picky about washing my pants, so I'd have more khakis as well. 

To that, I'd add polo shirts in navy and white, and a rugby shirt in your college's colors. A gray crewneck sweatshirt maybe. 

-k


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## Carisbrooke (Nov 12, 2008)

raincoat said:


> navy blue cotton socks to last a week


Great list! I like the minimalist approach.

I'd substitute a few of the blue cotton socks for a bit of variety e.g.
- cream colored Wigwam 625 socks
- LL Bean Wool Blend Ragg socks in gray


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## MrZipper (Sep 22, 2010)

raincoat said:


> OCBD boxer shorts to last a week


Nice list, and very helpful for those of us who are just starting out!

Have to wonder if I missed something with the above quote though... I have images of boxer shorts with little button down collars running though my head... :biggrin2:


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## ButtonedDown (Sep 14, 2010)

I think this wardrobe would be incomplete without a couple of fun or GTH shirts.

+1 on the suggestion for at least one rugby shirt.

--bill


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

kevinbelt said:


> I'm pretty picky about washing my pants, so I'd have more khakis as well.
> 
> To that, I'd add polo shirts in navy and white, and a rugby shirt in your college's colors. A gray crewneck sweatshirt maybe.
> 
> -k


Good additions. My head is stuck in cool weather. A few polos will be indispensable. Maybe madras shorts (or is that straying from minimalism?)


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## Saltydog (Nov 3, 2007)

ButtonedDown said:


> I think this wardrobe would be incomplete without a couple of fun or GTH shirts.
> 
> --bill


Disagree on the GTH fun shirts. They should only be worn occasionally and with only the minimum number of shirts each one needs to be more functional. The novelty stuff comes later when can afford the whimsy.


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## ButtonedDown (Sep 14, 2010)

Saltydog said:


> Disagree on the GTH fun shirts. They should only be worn occasionally and with only the minimum number of shirts each one needs to be more functional. The novelty stuff comes later when can afford the whimsy.


Perhaps I wore them too often as an undergrad. Perhaps I still do.

--bill


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## nmcheese (Dec 8, 2008)

This thread reminds me of the following from 1957 if the source is correct:


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## Ripley (Oct 19, 2010)

Very cool post, nmcheese.


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## Charles Saturn (May 27, 2010)

raincoat said:


> OCBD boxer shorts to last a week


Congratulations on creating a wonderful new expression, and a great post.


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## WouldaShoulda (Aug 5, 2009)

How can you claim to be in college and be able to do laundry weekly??

In '81, my Levi, Lacoste and Sperry outfitting required no undergarments whatsoever!!


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## M. Morgan (Dec 19, 2009)

Great list. I am in my twenties in law school and would love to have a few more tattersall/Viyella button-downs for wear by themselves or under sweater/tweed, so I'd recommend a couple of those as part of the "3 other shirts."


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## 32rollandrock (May 1, 2008)

Socks are overlooked here--you list nary a pair.

Socks, IMO, can make a wardrobe go twice as far, and at very little cost--by far, the biggest bang for the buck in any closet. Consider the venerable Merona brand. For ten bucks, you can get four pairs of argyles that are the perfect finishing touch. Also check out joyofsocks.com.


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## unmodern (Aug 10, 2009)

----^ +1. I would also recommend happysocks.com, for the adventurous. Well made, and tastefully different. I literally get a compliment every single time I wear one of them. I think they have a 50% off sale every summer, and there may also be an AAAC coupon floating around.


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## Larsd4 (Oct 14, 2005)

Raincoat, this is a superb list. The only tweaks I would add are extremely fine. Substitute a blue uni-stripe OCBD for one of the blue shirts. Cuff the khakis and dress pants to 1-3/4". Take the jackets and suit to a reputable tailor and splurge to have them properly fit.

Last, and this one will sting, spring for a pair of Alden LHS shells. These will cost you dearly, but will pay dividends in the long run.


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## JakeLA (Oct 30, 2006)

32rollandrock said:


> Socks are overlooked here--you list nary a pair.
> 
> Socks, IMO, can make a wardrobe go twice as far, and at very little cost--by far, the biggest bang for the buck in any closet. Consider the venerable Merona brand. For ten bucks, you can get four pairs of argyles that are the perfect finishing touch. Also check out joyofsocks.com.


+1 on Merona. Three pair for five bucks


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## M. Morgan (Dec 19, 2009)

I should add that the opening poster did mention socks in his list, though I think someone mentioned that he had not.


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## unmodern (Aug 10, 2009)

In the spirit of familyman, inq, and Youngster, who have each posted minimalist wardrobes in the other threads on the subject, here's mine (keep in mind I'm a grad. student). For me minimalism is a hobby as well as a money-saving scheme. It also allows me to buy nicer stuff than if I bought 3 of everything. I love the feeling of only ever wearing one of my favorite items in any category. If I dread putting something on, out it goes; it wasn't necessary anyway.

5 OCBDs
4 polos
1 flannel
1 rugby

2 tweed jackets
1 tweed overcoat
1 p-coat
1 north face

1 khakis
2 cords
2 shorts

3 sweaters

2 bean boots (tall & rubber moc)
2 blucher mocs
1 brown wingtip
1 flip flops

10 ties, incl. 1 bow tie
1 sterling tie slide (I think this should be mandatory for anyone who wears a tie)
1 pocket square (white linen)
1 watch cap & matching mittens (knitted by SWMBO)
2 scarves, grey and tartan
1 cashmere gloves
1 messenger bag
1 indestructible nylon backpack
1 timex easy reader

a bunch of fun socks from Happysocks.com; some argyles and thinner socks for summer

1 suit

The key is matchability. Both of my tweed jackets go with all three of my pants, which go with any of my shirts, which go with any of my sweaters, &c. I'll almost be sad when I get a navy blazer because it won't be able to be matched up with my navy cords.

Notes

1- I wanted an ivy cap in a nice Harris Tweed but SWMBO forbade it. I know the watch cap isn't formal enough to match with a tie so when I'm dressed up and it's cold, my head will just freeze...
2- I could do with one or two more khakis, of course. But I might just wear out this pair until they die. Believe it or not I find that three pairs of pants yields plenty of variety.
3- I am still hunting for a tux and the rest of the kit. So far I haven't needed it; but if I get invited to be a groomsman at a wedding I'll head up to Keezer's to hunt one out. That place is awesome!
4 - I don't think anyone I know has any inkling of just how small my wardrobe is. I am known for dressing well.
5- My eventual plan for my shoe wardrobe is to purchase Alden's LHS loafer in #8 shell. After that, I'll just be replacing what I've got.


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## tinytim (Jun 13, 2008)

TNSIL = ? These new fangled internet acronyms are killing me.


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## C. Sharp (Dec 18, 2008)

https://askandyaboutclothes.com/com...-Great-Pollock-s-Trad-musings&highlight=TNSIL



tinytim said:


> TNSIL = ? These new fangled internet acronyms are killing me.


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## Charles Saturn (May 27, 2010)

tinytim said:


> TNSIL = ? These new fangled internet acronyms are killing me.


https://www.ivy-style.com/southern-gentleman.html

Isn't KenCPollock kinda like one of the founding fathers. He still posts with some frequency.


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## andcounting (Apr 7, 2009)

I might also add that not only is the young college student a good candidate for this philosphly, but also the young family man with kids (I have 2 babies and counting...). If I dressed like most men around here, my poor wife would have endless loads of laundry left behind every day as I skipped off to work with my 6th pair of ill fitting "blend" khakis and another of my 13 cheap shirts. Instead I have a few suits, a few jackets, some pants shirts and ties and I come home, hang most of that right back up and launder when needed on weekends. By staying minimal and buying the best I also save my kids from the monthly or even weekly visit to the mall to replace some junky item (and then get sucked in to buying a bunch of other crap we don't need). Less is more.


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## Saltydog (Nov 3, 2007)

unmodern said:


> 1- I wanted an ivy cap in a nice Harris Tweed but SWMBO forbade it.


TNSIL I'm quite familiar with. But for the life of me I can't figure out SWMBO! Please ease my curiousity and ignorance and tell me what that stands for. I'm assuming it has something to do with your significant other.


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## ButtonedDown (Sep 14, 2010)

SWMBO=She Who Must Be Obeyed.

--bill


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## unmodern (Aug 10, 2009)

Precisely. Not at all the most salient of her many wonderful attributes---but when it comes to wardrobe items that she feels might embarrass her if we are seen together, well, she is SWMBO.


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## Saltydog (Nov 3, 2007)

OK...I have one of those too Thanks for enlightening me.


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## C. Sharp (Dec 18, 2008)

A question for you guys in college are you an island unto yourself or is there a traditional collegiate dressing peer group you have or could fold yourself into?


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## palmettoking (Jan 2, 2010)

C. Sharp said:


> A question for you guys in college are you an island unto yourself or is there a traditional collegiate dressing peer group you have or could folded yourself into?


As I sit here in the library wearing a t-shirt and chinos, I can't say that I am a beacon of traditional college dress right now. Contemporary, yes. But on average, I find people asking me "why are you dressed up?" every so often even when I wear jeans and a shetland. There is a lot of the southern trad/"fratty" look going on here, and I guess I am an amalgamation of that with whatever trad items the thrift stores have to offer. Although the fratty look seems more and more obnoxious to me every day, and paying 70 dollars for a polo shirt with some kind of southern motif on the chest just seems ridiculous.


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## pseudonym (Aug 1, 2010)

C. Sharp said:


> A question for you guys in college are you an island unto yourself or is there a traditional collegiate dressing peer group you have or could folded yourself into?


I go to a relatively crunchy school, and I see a decent gradient stretching from "Sweatpants: All Day, Every Day" to "I care about what I look like, and am not opposed to the concept of a collared shirt" which I'd say is standard fare for liberal arts colleges outside of the south. I could identify a few students as "preppy," but I don't really know them very well. I run with a set that goes either goodwill-hipster or REI, and among my male friends, I would say that I am the tradliest.

Of course, as a college student, I am a proponent of the concept that TNSIL is inherently tied to higher education, which means I am much looser in my definition of trad than some on this forum. I'm of the opinion that part of the whole "dressing well" thing means looking good while blending in, letting-th-man-wear-the-clothes-and-not-vice-versa, etcetera. Palmettoking, a t-shirt and chinos is fine traditional college dress (depending on the t-shirt,) and that is one of my go-to social outfits, along with t-shirt and "good" jeans. For classes, I'm fine in an oxford, but I do feel like much beyond that is looked on as a bit too counter-counter-cultural for my school.


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## Büchner (Dec 29, 2007)

It is funny how there seems to be some kind of peer pressure to not dress proper on american campuses.
The standard uniform of any self respecting german student would be:

- timberland boat shoes with thick commando sole 
- chinos (corduroy when it is cold, levis when it is raining)
- striped ralph lauren button down
- lambswool sweater (navy)
- burberry house check scarf
- barbour jacket


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## eris (Mar 31, 2008)

Maybe in a conservative fraternity. Not representative at all.


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## 4dgt90 (Dec 2, 2009)

I recently graduated from Vanderbilt. Having grown out of the semi-tight polo shirt look in high school and gaining a few pounds in college, I grew out of my collection of polo shirts and have yet to replace them. 90% of the time to class I wore buttondown shirts with conservative jeans/khakis/cords (khaki shorts when it was warm) tucked in with a fleece vest or jacket when it was cold, traded the fleece jacket to a Barbour senior year. I usually wore boots, leather flip flops or drivers. I would say many of my peers dressed the same as I did but there were some who were comfortable in sweat pants and t-shirt&#8230; most of those coming from the North I might add&#8230;

However, I would not be surprised if most other schools were unlike this. Schools I think that would be similar to mine in dress would be SMU, Ole Miss, Alabama, Georgia, Wake Forest, UNC, UVA, Rhodes, Duke, Princeton&#8230; this list of course is not conclusive, just my opinion based on my friends who went to these schools.


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