# ...and that's why they're called Weejuns



## Lucky Strike (Feb 23, 2006)

I had a look around the net, and found some of the Norwegian origins of the penny loafer:

In the late 19th century, fishermen and farmers in Aurland and the Sognefjord area in Western Norway were known for making light shoes of the moccasin type, initially for their own use, but occasionally for sale - this developed into a cottage industry in the true sense of the word.

In the second half of the 19th century, there was an influx of upper-class British sports salmon fishermen in the very good rivers of coastal Norway, particularly western Norway. The salmon season would start in mid-summer, and would last into early autumn. The "salmon lords", as they were called locally, wanted a light shoe that could easily be slipped on and off during riverside fishing.

Two villagers, Vebjørn S. Vangen og Andreas S. Vangen, started making and repairing shoes for the Brit fishermen, until production of the light moccasin became a full-time employment for them. Another villager, Nils Tveranger, was the first to start regular production of the model still known in Norway as the "Aurland shoe". It was exhibited at the Paris exposition in 1900. As other jet-setting salmon-fishers (Coco Chanel among them) watered out the British and German dominance of tourism and outdoor sport in Norway in the inter-war years, it seems that they brought the shoes back to their various homes. The Aurland shoe obtained its present form in the twenties.










After WWII, production increased greatly, and in the fifties around 90 persons in the village were employed in shoe production, spread out on 12 different small workshops in the village, and a few others in the vicinity. This industry would have dominated the life of the entire village, just on the strength of employment numbers. The present firm called - no surprise here - "Aurlandsko" was established in the late forties.










In the late sixties, a big hydro-electric power-plant was built close to Aurdal, and most people in the village found better-paid work connected to the power-plant.

The factory presently has six employees, down from around 90 in its heyday. Production, which in the early years was mainly done in private homes and small shops, is today centralized in a modern locality.

When production was at its peak in the 1940's and 50's, around 90 people were engaged, and the shoe was completely hand sown. Today there are about six people employed and work is partially done by machine.










A sidenote:

In 1947, the mayor of Aurdal received a letter from the Norwegian embassy to the US: The industrialist and at that time aide to the Secretary of the Treasury, Arthur Gardner, later US ambassador to Cuba, had bought a pair of Aurland shoes, one might guess while visiting in Norway before WWII, and wanted a few new pairs. He made a private request to the Norwegian ambassador, with a sketch of the "slippers", as he called them, attached.










Gardner had no idea where the shoes were made, but the embassy concluded that he referred to the Aurland shoes, after studying his sketch. After consultation with the village council, the local mayor had four pairs of shoes made, and after three months, four pairs of "moccasins", as they were called in the invoice, were sent to Washington by air mail.










Link (The workshop doesn't have its own website; this is a local chamber-of-commerce-type page):

https://www.aurland.com/felles/service/bedrifter/aurland skofabrikk/aurland skofabrikk.htm


----------



## wnh (Nov 4, 2006)

Nice. I am a sucker for things like this. I really like to know _what_ it is I am wearing.


----------



## Tom Buchanan (Nov 7, 2005)

Thanks for the report. That is very interesting and well explains the shoes we like so much. 

Do you have any idea how much the original costs?


----------



## septa (Mar 4, 2006)

That is amazing. This is the trad forum at its best. I'd always wondered how a Norwegian peasant shoes made their way into the ivy league wardrobe. Nice work.
s.


----------



## 127.72 MHz (Feb 16, 2007)

This kind of thing is really interesting, well done man!

Bill Woodward
Portland, Oregon


----------



## anglophile23 (Jan 25, 2007)

As I read this, the final minutes are ticking down on an ebay auction on Bass weejuns that I have bid on. Interesting how these two things happened at once.


----------



## anglophile23 (Jan 25, 2007)

I lost by 64 cents


----------



## Andy (Aug 25, 2002)

Lucky Strike:

Great info. Just to add some additional information from the CD-Rom, *The Encyclopedia of Men's Clothes*:

*Bass "Weejuns": *In 1876, George Henry Bass created the G.H. Bass shoe company, and in 1910 he introduced the camp "Mocc", a soft leather moccasin that challenged the hard dress shoes of the day. In1936 the Bass Shoe Co introduced an adaptation of a Norwegian fishermen moccasin style shoe named "Weejun" combining "Norwegian" and "*****". Weejuns are also referred to as penny loafers because of a semi-pocket featured on the vamp, into which a penny can be slipped.


----------



## 3button Max (Feb 6, 2006)

*aurland*

thank you Lucky strike ,for posting this neat pictorial.

max


----------



## crazyquik (Jun 8, 2005)

Who's going to call or write them to ask the price of a pair?


----------



## bigCat (Jun 10, 2005)

Did anybody say "group order" ?


----------



## Lucky Strike (Feb 23, 2006)

crazyquik said:


> Who's going to call or write them to ask the price of a pair?


I just did - spoke to the owner, Svein Vangen. A pair of rubber-soled loafers will be NOK 740, and leather-soled NOK 790. (I strongly suggest springing for the leather-soled version, unless they've changed the rubber soles they used when I was a kid.)

That's approx. $125 and 135. I would guess shipping would be another $30 or so. You could suggest declaring them as gifts to avoid duty, I don't know whether they'll do that, but it's always worth a try, I suppose.

The workshop doesn't have a webpage or e-mail, neither does any of the employees, it seems. Fax is the suggested way of communication, 
Most Scandinavians speak English passably well, so I don't think language will pose any serious problems.

Phone no: +47 57 63 32 12
fax no: +47 57 63 33 85
(47 is the Norwegian country code)

And thanks, all, for kind words. I had good fun poking around the net, finding this.


----------



## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Lucky Strike said:


> I just did - spoke to the owner, Svein Vangen. A pair of rubber-soled loafers will be NOK 740, and leather-soled NOK 790. I strongly suggest springing for the leather-soled version, unless they've changed the rubber soles they used when I was a kid.


Lucky strike indeed! Finally, the REAL THING has been found. This should break the Weejun/LHS monopoly...

You seem to be familiar with the shoes, can you comment on sizing?

DocD


----------



## Lucky Strike (Feb 23, 2006)

Doctor Damage said:


> Lucky strike indeed! Finally, the REAL THING has been found. This should break the Weejun/LHS monopoly...
> 
> You seem to be familiar with the shoes, can you comment on sizing?
> 
> DocD


I haven't worn them since I was a kid, so I can't really say much about sizing. I would imagine that they would be fairly true to EU sizing, though, roughly along the lines of UK size 9 ~ US size 10 ~ EU size 42.

The leather is quite stiff, and the soles are initially extremely had. They need a good amount of wearing in, but on the other hand they reputedly last for a generation or two. The construction is fairly unsophisticated, but sturdy - these are trad peasant shoes.


----------



## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Lucky Strike said:


> The leather is quite stiff, and the soles are initially extremely had. They need a good amount of wearing in, but on the other hand they reputedly last for a generation or two. The construction is fairly unsophisticated, but sturdy - these are trad *peasant shoes*.


Well, that's exactly how the original penny loafers were described in the old Esquire/AA articles. I've been running some rough cost estimates, and basically it works out to a bit more than a pair of SAS penny loafers in Canadian $, and about C$50 more than Sebago classics. But the Aurland shoes I suspect are much better and a hell of a lot more authentic, so I think I shall have a go.

Composing my fax letter will be a bit tricky, but hopefully online translators will be able to translate "black" and "leather sole" and "size" for me...

Thanks again for this amazing find.
DocD


----------



## Lucky Strike (Feb 23, 2006)

Doctor Damage said:


> Composing my fax letter will be a bit tricky, but hopefully online translators will be able to translate "black" and "leather sole" and "size" for me...
> 
> Thanks again for this amazing find.
> DocD


Short glossary:
Black: Sort/svart
Leather sole: Lærsåle
Size: Storleik/Størrelse

If you'll PM me the fax, I'll do a quick translation.

A few more pics from the workshop:


----------



## familyman (Sep 9, 2005)

Quite amazing.
Can you find these fairly easily in Norway? I have friends that visit family there quite often and if they're easy to find I may pester them to pick me up a pair. Othewise I'll just wait to see how DD fairs in his quest. I've been struggling to figure out what to replace my Weejuns with and I think I've just found it. Thank you so much for this Lucky Strike. If you need anything from the US let me know and I'll make sure you can get it.


----------



## egadfly (Nov 10, 2006)

Doctor Damage said:


> But the Aurland shoes I suspect are much better and a hell of a lot more authentic, so I think I shall have a go.


DD:

According to the website, they produce handmade -- presumably matching -- belts as well ...

EGF


----------



## maxnharry (Dec 3, 2004)

Very interesting and will have to check out a pair of those shoes. Thanks


----------



## rip (Jul 13, 2005)

Anyone PC enough to object to the moderately perjoritive term "*****" in connection with this name? I always thought it was just a shortening of Nor-We-Jun.


----------



## Topsider (Jul 9, 2005)

rip said:


> Anyone PC enough to object to the moderately perjoritive term "*****" in connection with this name? *I always thought it was just a shortening of Nor-We-Jun.*


Me too.


----------



## Tenacious Tassel (Sep 11, 2006)

What colors are made? Looks like just black and tan? how about #8 ish color?


----------



## Lucky Strike (Feb 23, 2006)

Tenacious Tassel said:


> What colors are made? Looks like just black and tan? how about #8 ish color?


Umm...sorry. Welcome to your antiquing project...


----------



## Lucky Strike (Feb 23, 2006)

And now I see I was beaten to it by several months:

https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?t=54826



J.P. Myhre said:


> Dear Gentlemen,
> Enjoy your reading! I hope you find your way to my website in despite of this exception at; https://www.bespoke-shoes.com/
> 
> AURLANDSKOEN AND THE TERM "NORWEGIAN"
> ...


----------



## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Lucky Strike said:


> And now I see I was beaten to it by several months...


He didn't post photos though!

By the way, if anyone here is waiting for me to buy a pair to review them (which I fully intend to do), they will be waiting for a long time. I am planning to order a pair of slippers on Monday/Tuesday, which will tap me out for a while.

DocD


----------



## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Doctor Damage said:


> By the way, if anyone here is waiting for me to buy a pair to review them (which I fully intend to do), they will be waiting for a long time. I am planning to order a pair of slippers on Monday/Tuesday, which will tap me out for a while. DocD


In spite of the many cyber-deamons that always seem to challenge me, I will attempt to order a pair and report on my impressions, once the shoes arrive and I have had a chance to take em out for a "test walk" or two. The chance to purchase what can legitimately be described as the "Mother" of all Weejuns is just too tempting to pass up!


----------



## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

*Where are we now?*

Just an update on the status of my quest to procure the "Mother" of all weejuns...I called the Aurland shoe company on March 15 and spoke with a rather plesant gentleman, hoping to place an order by phone, and was advised that the company could not process online or phone orders. As instructed, I prepared a message detailing my interest in making a purchase and addressing size and cost issues and asking about payment options (do they accept mastercard?). I also asked that any further details or order confirmation be worked out via phone or regular mail, as I do not have onsite fax capability. This information was faxed to the Aurland shoe company, courtesy of our local Staples store and I am presently awaiting a reply.


----------



## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

eagle2250 said:


> Just an update on the status of my quest to procure the "Mother" of all weejuns...I called the Aurland shoe company on March 15 and spoke with a rather plesant gentleman, hoping to place an order by phone, and was advised that the company could not process online or phone orders. As instructed, I prepared a message detailing my interest in making a purchase and addressing size and cost issues and asking about payment options (do they accept mastercard?). I also asked that any further details or order confirmation be worked out via phone or regular mail, as I do not have onsite fax capability. This information was faxed to the Aurland shoe company, courtesy of our local Staples store and I am presently awaiting a reply.


Glad to hear English is not a prob for them, as Lucky Strike suggested. I assume they use standard European sizing (i.e. 44, 44.5, 45, etc.), but maybe you can ask them. The cyber-demons which are stalking you should be prevented from working their foul magic, in this case, since Aurlandsko is clearly a low-tech operation...

DocD


----------



## crazyquik (Jun 8, 2005)

Doctor Damage said:


> since Aurlandsko is clearly a low-tech operation...
> 
> DocD


It's more trad that way....


----------



## Untilted (Mar 30, 2006)

I got a pair of USA-made weejuns today. They are SOO comfortable.


----------



## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

...and here we are, just short of a month since my initial inquiries to Arlandsko regarding purchasing a pair of their "weejuns." As yet, I have not recieved a reply to my fax (the fax service did provide me with confirmation of a successful transmission). The response I recieved to my latest call was that I should send another fax, repeating the information in my first fax. However, before I do that, I have a friend, still on active duty with the Air Force and stationed in Norway. Perhaps the shoes are retailed in stores close to his duty station....it is certainly worth the effort of an email to find out. A small voice in my head keeps repeating, "you must have the mother of all weejuns!" I will keep you informed as to future progress in this effort.


----------



## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Here's another photo of the shoes, blown up from a thumbnail. They look like a more refined design than I originally thought, and by inspecting the photos on their "website", they appear to be goodyear lasted in construction---not mocassin construction---which is odd.



Anyhoo, I've sent a fax myself so hopefully I will have more luck than Eagle.

DocD


----------



## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Doctor Damage said:


> Anyhoo, I've sent a fax myself so hopefully I will have more luck than Eagle.
> 
> DocD


DocD:

Good luck with your efforts. I actually sent a second fax and, after getting no response (again), I emailed my friends in the Air Force. They checked the retail establishments near where they live (Stavanger). Having no luck in finding the shoes offered for sale locally, they called the factory and placed my order. Aurlander agreed to ship the shoes directly to me at a total cost of (US) $174.56. At this point, the weejuns are paid for and hopefully enroute to me. Will advise of my impressions, upon their arrival.


----------



## Untilted (Mar 30, 2006)

God that is expensive!


----------



## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Untilted said:


> God that is expensive!


I believe the shipping portion of the $174.56 was $31, which puts the cost of the shoes at $143.56...still high but, hopefully not outrageous. I guess the proof of "real" value will be in the product!


----------



## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Untilted said:


> God that is expensive!


Compared to what? Let us wait and see what the quality is, which I suspect will be high (keeping in mind they are peasant shoes, not Madison Avenue dress shoes). If they can make a sturdy product of reliable quality, then they might be ahead of Quoddy.

Anyhoo, glad to hear that things are moving forward for you, *Eagle*.

DocD


----------



## Topsider (Jul 9, 2005)

Has anyone considered becoming the U.S. distributor for these shoes?

I smell a business opportunity.


----------



## A.Squire (Apr 5, 2006)

KentW said:


> Has anyone considered becoming the U.S. distributor for these shoes?
> 
> I smell a business opportunity.


Kent, currently my life is a SITCOM--single income, three children, outrageous mortgage, but I promise to purchase all of my haberdsashery from _you, _should you decide to lay it out. 
Hey, after reading the JPress thread, you could probably hook at least half of these folks.

Never mind, I just saw there was one million hits on the E-bay thread---Ha, Ha, Ha!


----------



## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

The Postman provided a plesant suprise for me today...a heavily wrapped parcel from Aurland Skofabrinkk, secured with at least six feet of packaging tape...and containing the "Mother of all weejuns!" 

Overall, I am pleased with the purchase. The leather from which the shoe is crafted is plesantly substantial and yet the heft of the shoe is suprisingly light. It has a, not unattractive, light tan, natural grain finish, that I am inclined to darken a bit, and a skin stitched strapp. The shoes are unlined, which contributes to their lightness and they have a full leather insole. Perhaps the most suprising aspect of the shoe is the sole. I ordered the optional leather sole. It is approximately 1/3 to 1/2 the thickness of the single oak soles on a pair of Alden LHS's or "Bass Weejuns" (or approximately 1/8" thick) and as "Lucky Strike" cautioned in an earlier post, it is presently "as stiff as a board!" The heel is all leather construction as well. This adds up to some rather "iffy" footing on almost any type of walking surface, at least initially. In retrospect I would be inclined to go with the rubber sole and heel options to improve the footing and provide a more robust sole, at least in terms of visual impact. Perhaps the most suprising outcome, considering the communications breakdowns experienced is, the fit of the shoes is perfect...which is good because the Company does not accept returns!

In summary, I think the label on the box describes the shoes best..."The Original Aurland Cabin Shoe". Based on fit, feel, and overall appearance, the Aurland shoe is a rustically designed, quite nicely made house shoe/slipper! While I am sure I will enjoy wearing mine and am quite satisfied with the product recieved, given the price paid, I am inclined to question the assertion that "they reputedly last a generation or two"...that may be a stretch!

Good luck DD with your pending purchase!


----------



## Untilted (Mar 30, 2006)

Eagle, can we get a picture?


----------



## A.Squire (Apr 5, 2006)

Untilted said:


> Eagle, can we get a picture?


mark this down.

"Second"


----------



## spinlps (Feb 15, 2004)

*While we wait for Eagle's pics...*

found these on the 'Net

Go to page 26 of this sizeable PDF

Various pics of shoes & workshop

...

"Third"


----------



## BeauJest (May 19, 2007)

They look a little gnarly...good with jeans for a schlepp in the country but I'm not sure I'd wear 'em in town, with a jacket & tie. 

Or am I just being a snot?


----------



## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Untitled and A. Squire: I remain as technically challenged "as I ever was" so, my ability to post pictures is very questionable. Should I be able to convince one of my adult children to provide a digital camera and technical assistance in the use of same, I will try mightily to accomodate your requests...but, offer no guarantees regarding the success of the effort.

In the meantime, the link provided by "spinups", includes several good pictures of the shoes...wish they still offered the burgundy color, pictured on page 26 of the PDF, spinups refers us to. That is the color I hope to achieve over time (and repeated polishings) with my pair. 

DocD: The shoes arrived in yesterday's mail! See post #39 for details. When your pair arrives, I suspect you will be suprised by the very thin sole. I know I was and after this mornings experience, find myself tempted to immediatly take the Auland shoes to the local shoe repair for installation of rubber "topys." The 'hard' leather soles and heels are real potential "A** Busters!" Walking down a carpeted set of stairs this AM, I took an unscheduled "flight lesson"...good take-off, bad landing, "Dammit!" (winks) Yesterday I slipped on the polished porcelain floor in our kitchen and on the cut pile carpeting in the house. Suprisingly, footing provided by the shoes, seems most stable on the hardwood flooring. In any evet, take care during your innaugural wearings of the shoes and make sure your health and life insurance premium payments are up to date. (winks) Life is indeed good!


----------



## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Here's the photo:



DocD


----------



## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

So...after five faxes over a period of a month-and-a-half, they finally faxed me back. The price is CDN$190 all in, which is superb, and they'll send them as a gift (hopefully no Customs Canada goons are reading this).

Now I have to decide on the size. I requested 10.5UK, but they say they use "10.5ER (29.5 cm) or 11ER (30 cm)", but frankly I have no idea what this means. Anyone?

DD


----------



## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Doctor Damage said:


> Now I have to decide on the size. I requested 10.5UK, but they say they use "10.5ER (29.5 cm) or 11ER (30 cm)", but frankly I have no idea what this means. Anyone? DD


DD: Glad to hear that progress on your order is being made. Regarding the sizing issue, if a 10.5UK size fits you well, the 10.5ER size should work, based on my experience with Aurlander. I wear a 9.0 in UK sizing and the shoes they sent me are stamped 9 ER. Good luck my friend!

PS: Plan on the cost of a pair of Topy sole protectors in the overall cost of your shoes or, if it is not too late in the process, you might consider ordering the shoes with the rubber sole, to make the shoes more wearable and extend the life of the sole!


----------



## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Okay...I received the shoes today. I don't know what to say. They're exactly what I expected, but also not what I expected. Perhaps the single best word to describe these shoes is "rustic". They truly are "peasant shoes" and I can easily imagine local craftsmen putting them together for wealthy visitors to wear during their month-long fishing trips or whatnot (as the legend goes). They're certainly "no frill" shoes, but also extremely robust.

Below I have organized my thoughts about these shoes by category. At the moment I don't have access to a digital camera, but as soon as I do I will post some photos. I don't think anything I have to say that will contradict Eagle's earlier comments.

-----

*Design*: The design is essentially as we have seen in the photos already posted, basically the classic penny loafer design. My favourite feature is the narrow 'tongue' which is visually separated from the flat strap, rare among penny loafers. I wish Alden or someone would copy this general design since it's very classic.

*Uppers*: Uppers are made of a tough but soft hide, fairly thick (nearly 1/8" thick). The leather is matte-no shine-but is very soft and accommodating. The shoes are unlined so the interior of the uppers is rough like Weejuns or the Brooks LHS. Ironically, the uppers remind me of the leathers currently used on the classic Gucci shoes. Putting a shine on these would be impossible, but I think they would scuff up nicely like old boat shoes, at least in the tan colour (I think scuffing the black colour would reveal the un-dyed leather underneath, which is a much lighter grey colour, so you'd have to regularly apply shoe cream). The pieces are sewn together very well.

*Soles*: The soles are made of single pieces of leather about 1/4" thick. The leather itself is probably the toughest I've run across in a long time and I have no doubt it would require years to wear through. Oddly, the edges of the soles were dressed with only a single pass of black goo (I don't know what that stuff is called) and they really need more. Also, the filing done on the edges is very uneven in spots, to the point of appearing amateurish. I have therefore tentatively decided to get my local shoe repair guy, who is very good, to re-file the edges so they are even and apply several coatings of dressing goo to seal the edges. That this is necessary is surprising, since the uppers are assembled to a much higher standard; perhaps the rubber soles would be more consistent.

*Heels*: Heels are stacked leather (or perhaps wood or leatherboard risers) and the toplift is the same leather as the sole. No doubt these are as robust as the soles, although use on hard surfaces (like concrete) they would quickly wear the edge.

*Construction*: After inspection, it is clear to me the construction of these is the classic slipper method, or "cementing". In this method the uppers are sewn together and downlasted over the last and glued down over the bottom of the last onto a thick insole. Next, the outsole is glued on over everything using heat and pressure. Although this method is not nearly as robust as Goodyear welting, it's a tried-and-true construction method and is easy to repair: just re-glue the old sole if it separates, or glue on a new one. (Untilted posted a photo of his BB slippers recently and these are made the same way, although these are a lot less dainty!)

*Fit & Last*: The last is best described as having a wide heel area and narrow toe box, with a visual emphasis on the fore-and-aft of the shoe. The width is definitely a medium or D, certainly no more than that. The instep is a flat strap but is extremely generous in terms of volume and I doubt anyone could ever complain about a tight instep (it's the total opposite of the LHS, which is know for being tight over the top of the feet). Regarding sizing, I generally wear a 11D in US sizes (such as Alden), but usually wear a 10.5 in UK sizes (medium width). I ordered these in a 10.5ER and they fit in length like 10.5 or maybe an 11 in US sizes, although the instep is high for a US shoe of that size. The toe box felt like a pair of 10.5E Alden tassels, but with a much wider heel area. Hopefully this helps.

_*OVERALL VERDICT?*_ These are really, really robust shoes which could never be worn as anything other than casual clothing, but would be ideal for padding around your cottage, dock, and backyard. In that setting, they'd last for a long time without needing anything other than an application of shoe cream now and then. The best features are the high quality uppers, the worst the amateurishly finished leather soles (again, I expect the rubber soles would probably be mass-produced and more consistent).

-----

Unfortunately, the last is the worst possible shape for my feet as my toes are pinched and my heels are loose, a personally disappointing result. Below I have whipped up a diagram which sort of shows the shoes (A) and my feet (DD) from above; when my feet are superimposed over the shoes you can see why the last doesn't work for my feet.

I suppose I could try to get them stretched, but my brains tells me that it would probably not be enough and would ruin an otherwise good pair of shoes, and in any case the heels would still be too loose. Once I have the edges of the soles re-dressed, I will have to decide what to do with them, either keep them as a novelty or sell them onwards.

So as I said at the start of this post, they're hard to describe. On one hand, I am surprised at how rustic these shoes appear, almost homemade like some of the Quoddy designs, yet I'm also surprised at how robust they are constructed. Money well spent, if only for the experience to see what the "original penny loafers" were like. With a different last, these would be great and I'd wear them all the time for casual wear.

To others out there contemplating a pair, I recommend the rubber sole and keep in mind the shape of the last. If the last works for you they would perform very good as something more formal than a boat shoe for banging around the back yard and quick trips to the post office or whatever.

DocD


----------



## Lucky Strike (Feb 23, 2006)

Sorry the last didn't work out for you, Dr. D. (I feel a bit responsible for bringing the Aurland shoes to the message board's attention, but they are generally quite well mad, although, as you say, rustic.)

As you say, the rubber soles should have more consistent quality, but are far less charming.

Sad story: I was actually in the workshop two weeks ago, driving from Oslo to Bergen on the West coast. Took a heap of photos, and then my camera died on me the next week. I'll try to post some new pics and info as soon as I'm able to extract the photos from the camera. 

Ordered a pair in tan, with leather soles, as they were sold out of my size. I'll report back, with some more pics, when I get them.


----------



## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Looking forward to your photos. I think these shoes could use some tweaking in their design and production processes and then they'd be world-beating penny loafers. But they are a craft product reflecting local culture, so there's no need for them to change. I suspect they sell 99% of their shoes with rubber soles, though.

The search continues for the perfect penny loafers...

DocD


----------



## Lucky Strike (Feb 23, 2006)

Here are some photos from the workshop and the surroundings:

The village of Aurland (In the photo, the shoe factory is just above the roof of the yellow house) :










The shoe factory, with view:



















The medieval Vangen church, which is also pictured on the shoeboxes:



















Church details:



















This translates as "A Poor Wanderer" (from the churchyard):










Displays in the shop:





































And the workshop (I've tried putting them in some logical sequence, but I simply don't know enough about shoe production...):
































































Rubber soles, euro-size 9:



















I don't really know what this machine does (welting/stitching soles?), but it looks very impressive.



















A pair in sixe 2:










They also make pleated belts to match:


----------



## Untilted (Mar 30, 2006)

thanks, bro.


----------



## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Doctor Damage said:


> Okay...I received the shoes today. I don't know what to say. They're exactly what I expected, but also not what I expected. Perhaps the single best word to describe these shoes is "rustic". They truly are "peasant shoes" and I can easily imagine local craftsmen putting them together for wealthy visitors to wear during their month-long fishing trips or whatnot (as the legend goes). They're certainly "no frill" shoes, but also extremely robust.
> 
> 
> > Happy to hear that you recieved your "cabin shoes" but, sorry to learn of the fit issues. When you take the shoes to your local cobbler to have the sole edges re-dressed, perhaps he might be able to comment as to the potential for stretching the toebox sufficiently to render a uasble fit. Thank you for the very thorough and well thought out review of the shoes...your comments accurately described my impressions and you said it better than I could have done. Well done my friend!
> ...


----------



## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Many, many thanks to LS for bringing us these great photos. They really show the location and especially the shoemaking process. The one photo of the shoes viewed from above gives a good idea of the last, which may work well for some members of this forum; keep in mind space under the flat strap is very high. I think the robust high quality of these shoes is evident in the photos, and the classic design is also well illustrated. The photos sort confirm my suspicion that they do mostly rubber soles.

Looks like beautiful country and I sort of envy these people their sleepy village. Again, great photos!

DocD


----------



## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

DD: Just curious...were you able to get the Aurlander camp mocs to fit acceptably well to keep and get some wear out of them? Here's to hoping for a happy ending!


----------



## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

eagle2250 said:


> DD: Just curious...were you able to get the Aurlander camp mocs to fit acceptably well to keep and get some wear out of them? Here's to hoping for a happy ending!


I have decided not to do anything right now, as realistically a significant sizing change is needed. I think the best plan of attack will be to buy another pair one size larger, then mix-and-match the left and right shoes so they fit best (10.5 left, 11 right). I will attend to that early next year.

Had them out of the closet the other day and I was struck again by the tough construction. I would recommend them in brown and with the rubber sole -- then they'd be superb for kicking around the cottage or campground.

DocD


----------



## aurland (Oct 7, 2008)

Nils Tveranger (the man behind the Aurland shoe), is actually my grand-grand-grandfather(grandfather to my grandmother).. Looking at this shoe actually / and was popular over large parts of Europe, even in the United States. 



Since he as a young boy traveled to the United States with his father, he was well many ideas from there. Exciting and fun to see that I have today komt in contact with people from including the United States, who have heard about the shoe and "Entrepreneur" Nils Tver Anger.


----------



## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

aurland said:


> Nils Tveranger (the man behind the Aurland shoe), is actually my grand-grand-grandfather(grandfather to my grandmother).. Looking at this shoe actually / and was popular over large parts of Europe, even in the United States.
> 
> Since he as a young boy traveled to the United States with his father, he was well many ideas from there. Exciting and fun to see that I have today komt in contact with people from including the United States, who have heard about the shoe and "Entrepreneur" Nils Tver Anger.


Thanks for posting. It's certainly an interesting story, especially given how popular penny loafers have been around the world.


----------



## aurland (Oct 7, 2008)

Doctor Damage said:


> Thanks for posting. It's certainly an interesting story, especially given how popular penny loafers have been around the world.


Yes, it's really a story that turns around the world. He earned big money at that time.

Has both glasses, watches, wallets, shoes, books and other things from Nils Tver Anger and books, really have to say it is exciting that I am today 100 years after it.

Here is shoe that was originally invented by Nils Tver Anger. Maybe you've already seen these? 







https://www.nrk.no/img/619224.jpeg

Has more photos in a book by him, that I will get scanned and posted on the Web, if you wish.

But can take some quick on his, taken from the Sagateam in Solund. 
Nils Tveranger's father's Gregorius Gregoriussen reinforces's, and his mother was Inger Mari. Nils Tveranger had 5 siblings including himself.

It is said that "Nele", grandmother of Nils, had it tough. She set back alone with 2 young children, after the man passed away in an accident. As well as her mother passed away. So is actually much exciting family stories about their ancestors and Nils himself.

Where are you live then? Usa / Europe?


----------



## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

aurland said:


> Has both glasses, watches, wallets, shoes, books and other things from Nils Tver Anger and books, really have to say it is exciting that I am today 100 years after it.
> 
> Has more photos in a book by him, that I will get scanned and posted on the Web, if you wish.


Any old documents or especially photos of the penny loafer shoes would be welcome. We would also be interested in any details of the expansion of the man's business and how he coped with demand, evolved for new markets, etc. Does the family still own the company? If not, how did it get sold, etc. But again, any photos you may have of the original penny loafers, particularly period photos or diagrams, would be useful.



> Where are you live then? Usa / Europe?


Most of our members here are in the US, with a few Canadians, and a sprinkling of Brits.


----------



## aurland (Oct 7, 2008)

Doctor Damage said:


> Any old documents or especially photos of the penny loafer shoes would be welcome. We would also be interested in any details of the expansion of the man's business and how he coped with demand, evolved for new markets, etc. Does the family still own the company? If not, how did it get sold, etc. But again, any photos you may have of the original penny loafers, particularly period photos or diagrams, would be useful.
> 
> Most of our members here are in the US, with a few Canadians, and a sprinkling of Brits.


I can come back with, among other things, a little history (that is not known outside the family), about his career and time, as well as photos.

But the company has sold enough. It was sold by Gustav Tveranger (his son). So this was bought up by some close relatives are of us, after Gustav.

BTW:
Application from Nils Tveranger about the empty building on the stove Point common. Aurland (1896) 
https://www.sffarkiv.no/sffbasar/default.asp?p=result&db=dbdokarkivdokument&ptype=single&sql=LOWER%28dokument%5Fsignatur%29%3D%27k%2D142101501000003%27+AND+dokument%5Fside%3D141+AND+LOWER%28dokument%5Fside%5Fbokstav%29%3D%27b%27https://www.sffarkiv.no/samsok2/default.aspx?skin=kulturnett

(Sitting on the job, then come back with more later!)


----------



## Pr B (Jan 8, 2009)

*Norwegian Split-Toes*

Okay, we've solved the mystery of Weejuns.

Now, please tell me why are Norwegian split-toes "Norwegian"?!

I've searched AAAC and Googled and come up empty handed.

Takk!


----------



## nicksull (Sep 1, 2005)

Lucky Strike said:


> I had a look around the net, and found some of the Norwegian origins of the penny loafer:
> 
> In the late 19th century, fishermen and farmers in Aurland and the Sognefjord area in Western Norway were known for making light shoes of the moccasin type, initially for their own use, but occasionally for sale - this developed into a cottage industry in the true sense of the word.
> 
> ...


PURE GENIUS. This is what AAAC should be for - the preservation ad promotion of knowledge. Andy, i do think its time for a book of wisdoms and knowledge from this site. Count me in as a subscriber. Only challenge is distilling the true knowledge from the merely opinionated.


----------



## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Anne Stine, wife of Helge Ingstad. These are the archeologists who led the excavation of L'Anse aux Meadows, the first (likely only) Viking settlement in North America. She was from Norway and is wearing penny loafers in these photos. Note the side view of her shoes in the second photo: they clearly have the same rubber sole which Aurland, the company profiled in this thread, still offers... these photos date from the 1960s!


----------



## xcubbies (Jul 31, 2005)

Doctor Damage said:


> Anne Stine, wife of Helge Ingstad. These are the archeologists who led the excavation of L'Anse aux Meadows, the first (likely only) Viking settlement in North America. She was from Norway and is wearing penny loafers in these photos. Note the side view of her shoes in the second photo: they clearly have the same rubber sole which Aurland, the company profiled in this thread, still offers... these photos date from the 1960s!


If you read the full article you'll learn that in her excavation she uncovered remnants of old shoes with what we now call Norwegian split-toes, neatly confirming that North America was first discovered by Scandinavians well before Columbus.


----------



## fishertw (Jan 27, 2006)

xcubbies said:


> If you read the full article you'll learn that in her excavation she uncovered remnants of old shoes with what we now call Norwegian split-toes, neatly confirming that North America was first discovered by Scandinavians well before Columbus.


I lived in Newfoundland for a year in the 50's before the find of Lanse' aux Meadows and have always been fascinated by that area. In 2012, I got to see the settlement and its recreation. It's a great place to visit and I'm now more than ever convinced that Columbus was a late comer to North America. Glad we now know that the weejun legacy is confirmed;-)


----------



## fishertw (Jan 27, 2006)

Doctor Damage said:


> Anne Stine, wife of Helge Ingstad. These are the archeologists who led the excavation of L'Anse aux Meadows, the first (likely only) Viking settlement in North America. She was from Norway and is wearing penny loafers in these photos. Note the side view of her shoes in the second photo: they clearly have the same rubber sole which Aurland, the company profiled in this thread, still offers... these photos date from the 1960s!


The attached is a photo of the bronze bust of Ann and Helge situated at the site of the settlement at L'Anse aux Meadows.


----------



## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

^ great stuff, thanks!


----------



## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

fishertw said:


> View attachment 21267
> The attached is a photo of the bronze bust of Ann and Helge situated at the site of the settlement at L'Anse aux Meadows.


My friend, your post makes me even more appreciative of the Aurlander Camp Mocs, gracing my feet as I type this. Thanks for that! At 11+ years of wear, they are starting to show some age.


----------



## fishertw (Jan 27, 2006)

Eagle,
Your post and others have made me want to try the Aurlander "weejuns" for myself. In looking on their website, It appears I can order them online. Any advice on fit and width etc.?? Given my background with Weejuns from Bass and my experiences in Newfoundland both as a kid and as an adult.(I've been there twice in the past ten years) I intend to order a pair of the originals.
Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.
Tom


----------



## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

fishertw said:


> Eagle,
> Your post and others have made me want to try the Aurlander "weejuns" for myself. In looking on their website, It appears I can order them online. Any advice on fit and width etc.?? Given my background with Weejuns from Bass and my experiences in Newfoundland both as a kid and as an adult.(I've been there twice in the past ten years) I intend to order a pair of the originals.
> Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.
> Tom


I think I posted some fit comments earlier in this thread. I have a pair. Mine are snug in the toes and wide in the heels, the opposite of what I need. The shape is kinda blobby. They're kinda crude in terms of quality, too, so very much "camp moccasins" if you know what I mean. The leather soles are so stiff and hard I could probably hammer in nails with them, which makes me think the rubber soles would be smarter.


----------



## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

fishertw said:


> Eagle,
> Your post and others have made me want to try the Aurlander "weejuns" for myself. In looking on their website, It appears I can order them online. Any advice on fit and width etc.?? Given my background with Weejuns from Bass and my experiences in Newfoundland both as a kid and as an adult.(I've been there twice in the past ten years) I intend to order a pair of the originals.
> Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.
> Tom


A UK size 9 in a medium width fits me reasonably well and that is the size I in which ordered the Aurlander's. As Doc D mentioned in his earlier assessment of the shoes, they do fit a bit wide in the heel and I initially applied heel pads around the heel cup of each shoe to take up the excess width. The adhesive on the heel pads failed long ago and I have since worn the shoes without them and have greatly enjoyed the Mocs as a house shoe. I would caution, should you order shoes with the hard, thin leather sole, consider applying Topy's to improve you footing on slippery surfaces and to extend the life of the soles.

I will try to get some pics showing the present state of my Aurlander's in the next day or so and get them posted. Good luck with your order.


----------



## fishertw (Jan 27, 2006)

eagle2250 said:


> A UK size 9 in a medium width fits me reasonably well and that is the size I in which ordered the Aurlander's. As Doc D mentioned in his earlier assessment of the shoes, they do fit a bit wide in the heel and I initially applied heel pads around the heel cup of each shoe to take up the excess width. The adhesive on the heel pads failed long ago and I have since worn the shoes without them and have greatly enjoyed the Mocs as a house shoe. I would caution, should you order shoes with the hard, thin leather sole, consider applying Topy's to improve you footing on slippery surfaces and to extend the life of the soles.
> 
> I will try to get some pics showing the present state of my Aurlander's in the next day or so and get them posted. Good luck with your order.


Eagle, I've just ordered a pair. Bought the original color and rubber sole. I'm really looking forward to receiving these. Price turned out to be just under $300 shipped. I wear orthotics so have ordered the same size as my RM Williams boots and hope there is some consistency. 
Thanks for your insights.
Tom


----------



## Chrisone (Aug 25, 2014)

Doctor Damage said:


> They're kinda crude in terms of quality


Rustic is maybe a better word. The leather is thick, stiff and uniform i color. They're somewhat bland straight out of the box... But they age nicely, at least the ones in natural brown. The leather is of high quality, but without the luxurious finish we're so used to these days.

The rubber sole is indeed the same as always. I have a pair of old Aurland's from the 70s laying around, with original rubber soles. Proves the quality of the soles, I suppose.

Aurland's used to be something only tourists and old ladies bought, but they've had quite a resurgence locally here in Norway for the last couple of years. But If I had to guess, I would say that 80-90% of their sale still is to women. Loafers on men, especially the tasseled kind, got a very bad rep in the 80s in Norway that it never really recovered from.

(fun fact: Loafers and flat laceless shoes of every other kind are all referred to as moccasins in norwegian.)

New owners, but still locals, took over Aurland ten years ago and invested in the company, both in marketing and machinery. They also increased the prices. Seven years ago the shoes cost 150 USD (=1200 NOK) a pair, today they cost 250 USD (=2000 NOK). At the same time they claim that the quality increased when they upgraded the old machinery. Aurland make around 5000 pair of shoes a year and have only seven employees total, at least that was the number a year ago.

The shoes are somewhat of an odd beast these days. It's an old fashioned quality shoe, but not in any way luxurious or refined, made the same way it always has. Some models are a little bit strange, but stick with the basic ones with either rubber or leather sole, and you'll be OK. Their "boat model" (navy nubuck/white rubber sole) is also quite nice.

For a small increase in price (10-20%) they can make any combination of sole and uppers for you if you ask. They have quite a selection of nubuck colors.


----------



## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

^ Most excellent info, thanks for posting! If those photos are reliable then they've clearly improved the overall quality since I got mine (which reminds me I need to get rid of them).

By the way, can someone post a link to their current website?


----------



## fishertw (Jan 27, 2006)

I just tried to order a pair and have had a very pleasant exchange with one of their sales folks. They inquired as to the length of my foot and in the exchange I let them know that I wear a full foot orthotic. They subsequently sent a request for a photo of the orthotic and decided that the volume of the forefoot area of their shoe is not sufficient to fit both the orthotic and my foot. We jointly decided to cancel the order. I sincerely appreciate their customer service and attention to fit of their product.


----------



## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

As promised, pics of














a pair of the Aurlander Mocs with a bit more than a decade of hard wear on them. Topys were applied to reduce any noted risk factors associated with wearing the hard leather soled mocs. An additional benefit is that they have increased the life expectancy of those thin, hard leather soles to (I think) "infinity and beyond!" Please note, these "weejuns" have not been babied...the white smear is a reminder of past interior house painting efforts! Topy sole protectors have been replaced twice. The present rubber topcoat is a Vibram offering.


----------



## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

eagle2250 said:


> As promised, pics of
> View attachment 21322
> View attachment 21323
> a pair of the Aurlander Mocs with a bit more than a decade of hard wear on them. Topys were applied to reduce any noted risk factors associated with wearing the hard leather soled mocs. An additional benefit is that they have increased the life expectancy of those thin, hard leather soles to (I think) "infinity and beyond!" Please note, these "weejuns" have not been babied...the white smear is a reminder of past interior house painting efforts! Topy sole protectors have been replaced twice. The present rubber topcoat is a Vibram offering.


1. Those shoes look great with ten years of not-being-babied wear - that says so much about any item's quality: in Trad world, things should look "better" after ten years of wear

2. I can feel the Florida fun pastel colors in that (I'm guessing) blanket - that's no Northeast blanket of heavy wool and dark, somber cold-climate colors as you'll find at the Fading Fasts


----------



## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

LOL, I think the wife calls it a Duvet, but I'm not absolutely sure. Growing up in the country, I call it a bedspread. It's the one in our guest room. I'm somewhat embarrassed to admit, without going in to look at it first, I would be hard pressed to describe the one in the master bedroom...I must really be getting old! :crazy:


----------



## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

eagle2250 said:


> LOL, I think the wife calls it a Duvet, but I'm not absolutely sure. Growing up in the country, I call it a bedspread. It's the one in our guest room. I'm somewhat embarrassed to admit, without going in to look at it first, I would be hard pressed to describe the one in the master bedroom...I must really be getting old! :crazy:


I am sure there are men who know this stuff and women who don't, but in my experience, the various types of and nomenclature around linen tends to be known and understood much better by women than men.

Everything is a sheet or a blanket to me. I know those words - duvet, throw, quilt, cover, comforter, etc. - are out there (I've had many girlfriends and have lived with two of them [not at the same time - I don't have those types of skills ]) - but everything is either a sheet or a blanket to me, the rest are just variations on the theme.


----------

