# Blazers! Blazers! Blazers! (pics)...



## Doctor Damage

For some time now I've been accumulating images of men wearing different types of blazers in a variety of settings, and this thread is intended to share those images. I don't have a particular purpose in mind, although if the images spark discussion and add to the "marketplace of ideas" then I will have done my part.

The plan is to post the following:
1. post a general discussion on the origins of the blazer,
2. post images of reefer jackets,
3. post images of double-breasted blazers, &
4. post images of single-breasted blazers.

Throughout I have chosen images which illustrate the bewildering variety of buttoning configurations, and other variations of details, to demonstrate how blazers come in _many_ different shapes and forms.

Enjoy!

DocD


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## Doctor Damage

*Origins of the Blazer*

On the origins of the blazer we are usually presented with either the oft-related story of the captain of the HMS Blazer or something about midshipmen hauling in sails. Frankly, I don't believe either story (neither does Lenius or Boyer, and others too), although I do agree the origins of the blazer are nautical. Boyer describes the modern blazer as a stylized version of the "reefer" jacket which I shall address later in this post.

But first, let's dispose of the two most famous stories about the blazer.

_HMS Blazer_

My readings on Royal Navy uniforms and equipment of Nelson's era put the kibosh to both the HMS Blazer _and_ the midshipmen versions of the blazer story. The fact is Royal Navy seamen wore short jackets with gold buttons during the Nelson era, and occasionally much earlier, but not during the Victorian period. Blue became the universal colour for seamen's jackets sometime in the middle of the 18th century. Jackets that we would consider familiar were commonly worn by seamen as walking-out or shore attire for fighting ashore and wooing the charming ladies of the ports. These jackets were short and had two or three rows of small gold buttons, sometimes in great number, usually worn unbuttoned. Sleeve cuffs had buttons and "mariner's cuffs", in essence surgeon's cuffs but with larger attached flaps. However, by the time Victoria ascended the throne, seamen were typically uniformed in the archetypical "square rig" uniform, although this was technically not adopted as a prescribed uniform for seamen until 1857. Thus it is highly unlikely Victoria would have seen seamen wearing jackets that resemble the modern blazer or any dress other than square rig.

(As an interesting sidebar, Nelson-era seaman tailored their own clothes on board from bolts of cloth procured through the Admiralty for this purpose. For some reason, checked shirts became extremely popular among seaman and were even aped by landlubbers wishing to look a bit more...nautical. So the check shirt, which we usually associate with British country sports, especially equestrian, had other associations as well.)

_Midshipmen_

Officers and midshipmen-teenage boys getting a start on an officer's career in the navy with on-the-job training-wore jackets with long tails throughout the 19th century. In the Nelson era these resembled modern "cutaways", while in the Victorian period these evolved into full-skirted frock coats. None of these jackets resembled the modern blazer. Therefore the modern blazer did not originate with jackets worn by midshipmen.

_Reefer Jackets_

As I noted at the start of this post, Boyer describes the modern blazer as a stylized version of the "reefer" jacket, allegedly named after a certain group of seamen who reefed in sails. Does this story have credence? I believe it does and here's why:

The reefer jacket is a double-breasted jacket buttoning 6X3 and traditionally worn for nautical and sailing activities by civilians. The term "reefer jacket" also describes the jacket worn today by Royal Navy petty officers (senior ranks) as full dress. These jackets are as the civilian jacket described above, but with gold RN buttons and three small gold buttons placed horizontally on each sleeve, a design which has not changed substantially since the 19th century. The modern reefer jacket worn today by Royal Navy petty officers can be traced (at least visually) back to the short jackets commonly worn by Nelson's sailors. Petty officers-often known in early days by their job titles, such as coxswains and boatswains, for example-originally wore clothing similar to seamen. When the square rig uniform was adopted for seamen, petty officers continued to wear short jackets.

Since 1889, Royal Navy officers have worn jackets with eight gold buttons in two rows, called "monkey jackets". These were originally introduced as undress jackets (until recently full dress jackets always had tails). Monkey jackets are worn buttoned right up (buttoning 8X4), although some officers in WWII wore them with the top button undone (probably for reasons similar to the "fifty mission crush" sported by USAF officers in the same war). Officers continue to wear the eight button monkey jacket today, but in contrast to petty officer's reefer jackets use gold braid to show rank and have no cuff buttons.

Thus modern naval officer's jackets, which so closely resemble modern blazers, actually began as quite different garments which eventually evolved to resemble the jackets traditionally worn by petty officers. Indeed, the garment which became the modern petty officer's jacket shows the greatest continuity throughout its history of any Royal Navy jacket and is the most likely antecedent of the modern blazer.

Ultimately, I think Boyer was spot on when he said the problem with blazers lies with misuse of the word "blazer", not the jackets themselves. Originally referring to the brightly hued and striped jackets worn by England's rowing teams and schoolboys, over time the word "blazer" broadened to include solid-coloured jackets with metal buttons and today, in a particularly unfortunate misappropriation of the word, includes odd jackets of nearly any kind.

But now, on to the images!

DocD


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## Doctor Damage

*Reefer Jackets*

First off are reefer jackets, from early civilian versions to current-day stylized examples, over the period of the 20th century.

Here is a pattern for a reefer jacket (left). Note the "mariner's cuffs" with three horizontal cuff buttons.

Note that reefer jackets are still worn today by the officers and commodores of the more traditional yacht clubs in North America. Below are some examples (I can't remember the yacht club in the photo). Note the large black buttons instead of gold.


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## Gruto

Doctor Damage said:


> *Origins of the Blazer*
> Ultimately, I think Boyer was spot on when he said the problem with blazers lies with misuse of the word "blazer", not the jackets themselves. Originally referring to the brightly hued and striped jackets worn by England's rowing teams and schoolboys, over time the word "blazer" broadened to include solid-coloured jackets with metal buttons and today, in a particularly unfortunate misappropriation of the word, includes odd jackets of nearly any kind.
> DocD


Thanks, a short reply:

The DB blazer comes from the reefer, the SB blazer comes from ... well, this is more tricky. The striped jackets from late 19th Century more appear like odd jackets today, not blazers. So does the SB blazer have a history at all?


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## Doctor Damage

Gruto said:


> Thanks, a short reply:
> 
> The DB blazer comes from the reefer, the SB blazer comes from ... well, this is more tricky. The striped jackets from late 19th Century more appear like odd jackets today, not blazers. So does the SB blazer have a history at all?


I think it was someone on this forum (a long time ago) who suggested single-breasted blazers came from clothing manufacturers just putting gold buttons on suit jackets to broaden their range of products with minimal effort. That's probably why most blazers today, including double-breasted ones, are virtually indistinguishable from suits except for the buttons and why patch pockets are rare on RTW.

DocD


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## nicksull

*SB Blazer*

I think its far more likely that the SB blazer is descended in a natural way from the DB reefer/blazer; just as the SB suit is a derivation of the DB, itself being a logical derivation from the usually DB frock coat. There is no reason, in some relatively enlightened moment, that a club might not have decreed single breasted blazers acceptable. But they would have to have been at least seen about for that to happen. For some reason i cant fathom (excuse nautical pun) rowing/tennis clubs might be where actual SB blazer comes from. Nice pics

Ive got one to add shortly....


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## Doctor Damage

_*Reefer Jackets continued...*_

Below are photos of more recent examples of reefer jackets, although in each case they appear to be buttoned to the middle row of buttons. In the third photograph, note the fellow on the far left in the reefer jacket and (for curiosity) note the older fellow next to Diana with toggles instead of buttons on his blazer!

The following photos show members of the royal family wearing modernized versions of the black reefer jackets I posted previously, but with the top row of buttons for show only.

Next up: double-breasted blazers of various types.

DocD


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## s4usea

I'm sorry, but isn't there a possibility that there isn't a nautical angle?

I'm thinking of the short coats that Cavalry wore so the tails wouldn't get in the way of their pistols. They went away for a bit when tactics changed from ranks of horseman riding up and "blazing away" with their pistols and then rode back and re-loaded as they worked their way to the head of the column again, to sword and lance shock.

They re-appeared by the end of the Eighteen Century when tactics changed again away from swords and lances.

Just wondering here...

Scott​


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## Albert

Doc,

That's fantastic stuff - keep them coming, please! Many thanks for posting.

Cheers,
A.


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## alaric

> I'm thinking of the short coats that Cavalry wore so the tails wouldn't get in the way of their pistols. They went away for a bit when tactics changed from ranks of horseman riding up and "blazing away" with their pistols and then rode back and re-loaded as they worked their way to the head of the column again, to sword and lance shock.
> 
> They re-appeared by the end of the Eighteen Century when tactics changed again away from swords and lances.
> 
> Just wondering here...


What your referring to, I think, is what became the spenser jacket, A waist or hip length skirtless jacket.

alaric


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## neyus

Here's some pictures of sporting and school blazers in Australia.

The real thing.














































Now the imitation by Ralph Lauren.


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## Doctor Damage

In searching for information on reefer jackets I came across this interesting post on another forum devoted to yachting and boating:

_"I wonder who the real maker was of the one Capt O M Watts used to sell to yachtsmen far and wide. After my father's death I tried his reefer but it was too small for me, I just cut off the yacht club buttons to await the right coat at the right time. I seem to remember the reefer being closer to a real jacket than the pea jackets pictured, narrower lapels and smart enough for the yacht club bar, but I may be mistaken it's a long time since I've seen one. Gieves and Hawkes sell something called a "No. 5 Reefer Jacket, Best Barathea" but the £1500 charge had me spluttering over the afternoon tea, and not even a picture! --John"_

Anyone familiar with the G&H jacket to which he's referring?

DocD


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## Doctor Damage

*Double-Breasted Blazers: Buttoning Up!*

Here are some quick reference photos of the standard types of buttoning arrangements for double-breasted blazers. Note that I have not included below the reefer jacket (6X3).

Next I shall start posting a variety of photos illustrating the blazers shown above, plus double-breasted blazers of various colours, shapes, sizes, and lengths being worn in real life. I've tried to minimize the number of photos that include members of the British royal family, but since they wear blazers so often it's impossible to exclude them entirely.

DocD


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## Matt S

Prince Michael's is the only way to go. But 6x3 I would love to see RTW.


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## Doctor Damage

Let's get rolling with double-breasted blazers. I shall try to post them in advancing order of buttoning styles (sort of).

First up is King Carl Gustav of Sweden wearing a 4X1 blazer with his wife in indigenous dress. Just below is the king again wearing the same blazer while visiting Monaco and it's ruler; note the king's youngest son is wearing a 6X1 blazer.




The photo below is a shot from a Humphrey Bogart movie (the name escapes my memory). Bogie is wearing a 4X1 blazer, or perhaps it's a 4X2 that he is buttoning to the bottom. Obviously he's in costume for the film, but it still illustrates the style.



Careful inspection of the photo below reveals three separate buttoning styles for d-b blazers. Major Ronald Ferguson in the centre (father of the young woman on his left) is wearing a classic 6X2 blazer, but the assistant on the extreme right is wearing a 4X1 blazer and the man in the Aussie bush hat at left rear is wearing an unbuttoned 4X2 blazer.



DocD


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## Doctor Damage

Here's a couple of photos of David Niven looking great as always. In the first photo he's wearing a reefer jacket during an off-camera moment on a film set, and in the second photo he's wearing a 6X2 blazer (in costume and talking with Peter Ustinov).





The following photo shows Douglas Fairbanks Jr wearing a 3X1 blazer (note the wide horizontal spacing of the buttons and twin breast pockets) while standing with Noel Coward.



DocD


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## Doctor Damage

Most of the photos in the next several posts will be 6X2 blazers exclusively, since this is the most common style of double-breasted blazers. The three photos below are from Henley and/or Oxford-Cambridge regattas. The first black-and-white photo is from the 1920s or 1930s (I have a long thread on this topic over on the Trad Forum for those who are interested).

The two photos below are of Lord Romsey (as he was then) with his wife, taken on the occasion of their marriage. He is now known as Lord Brabourne and is a long-time friend of Prince Charles. Note the extremely large size of the buttons on his blazer.

DocD


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## maxnharry

Great photos! 

I'd like to propose another angle:

1. The reefer jacket is another name for a peacoat. It was originally for going aloft in rigging to "reef" sail. In the U.S. Navy the peacoat is worn by enlisted and has black buttons and officers have a version that is called a reefer and has brass buttons.

2. The blazer is a civilian version of an officer's dress blue coat. the dress blue coat is double breasted with brass buttons and ventless.


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## Matt S

James Bond's 6x3 blazer. Very naval uniform-like. This is from The Man with the Golden Gun. George Lazenby also wore one in On Her Majesty's Secret Service.


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## WinstonSpencer

Wahoo! Bravo.

Good doctor, bloody great job. So my question for you, from the masses of refined flora of AA, if you were to buy one blazer, where/what would it be... The sky is the limit. Given us the quintessential blazer.


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## neyus

Can someone explain to me the reasoning behind the 2x1 double breasted jackets.


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## Matt S

neyus said:


> Can someone explain to me the reasoning behind the 2x1 double breasted jackets.


The 2x1 makes the most sense. You only button one button anyway, so why have extra? Kind of like the one button suit coats. The second button is there of course to balance the first. I find the 6 button coats to be much more slimming than the 2 button.


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## Doctor Damage

maxnharry said:


> The reefer jacket is another name for a peacoat. It was originally for going aloft in rigging to "reef" sail. In the U.S. Navy the peacoat is worn by enlisted and has black buttons and officers have a version that is called a reefer and has brass buttons.


The word "reefer" appears to be one of those terms with a bunch of different definitions. It certainly seems to imply a short double-breasted jacket worn shipboard, especially while sailing, although it applies in the UK to the 6X3 blazer. As you say, it's used in the US as another word for a pea jacket, although I suspect that's a corruption. Of course, today the word "blazer" is also used indiscriminantly, so it's really hard to pin down etymology(sp).



maxnharry said:


> The blazer is a civilian version of an officer's dress blue coat. the dress blue coat is double breasted with brass buttons and ventless.


It is well known among students of military uniforms that the Royal Navy introduced all of the naval uniforms we are familiar with today and every other navy copied them. The square rig, the officer's jackets, it was all introduced by the Royal Navy and copied from them, with variations of course.



neyus said:


> Can someone explain to me the reasoning behind the 2x1 double breasted jackets.


I have only seen it worn on children, but that doesn't mean much. I imagine it would look quite poor on an adult man, unless he was very short or wide. On a tall man, I imagine that anything with less than 6 buttons would look out of proportion, unless very carefully cut.



WinstonSpencer said:


> Good doctor, bloody great job. So my question for you, from the masses of refined flora of AA, if you were to buy one blazer, where/what would it be... The sky is the limit. Given us the quintessential blazer.


Glad you're enjoying the photos. There's a lot in them, if you examine them for a while...and I'm getting to what I think is the ultimate blazer.

DocD


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## Young Ruffian

I'm not sure whether this is the right place to ask this, but what are some sources for very slim fitting classic sb blazers or ones with a large deal of waste suppression/high armholes. I'm a nine inch drop and enjoy a rather slim fit. Thanks!


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## Doctor Damage

Young Ruffian said:


> I'm not sure whether this is the right place to ask this, but what are some sources for very slim fitting classic sb blazers or ones with a large deal of waste suppression/high armholes. I'm a nine inch drop and enjoy a rather slim fit. Thanks!


I would start a new thread for that, since most members here will not read this thread in detail. Also, I don't want to get derailed too far from the topic.

DocD


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## Young Ruffian

Doctor Damage said:


> I would start a new thread for that, since most members here will not read this thread in detail. Also, I don't want to get derailed too far from the topic.
> 
> DocD


will do! Great thread by the way, excellent photos. I especially like Prince Charles' 8X3


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## Mr Sweden

Doctor Damage said:


> First up is King Carl Gustav of Sweden wearing a 4X1 blazer with his wife in indigenous dress. Just below is the king again wearing the same blazer while visiting Monaco and it's ruler; note the king's youngest son is wearing a 6X1 blazer.


The young boy standing between Furst Albert and King Carl Gustav is not the king's son. The king's real son is the one standing on the left side of Furst Albert, Prince Carl Philip.

/Mr S


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## Doctor Damage

I must be getting sloppy! I should have known that was Carl Gustav's son on the left (horrible suit on him...). I checked the Getty listing and the short blighter wearing the bins isn't identified.

DocD


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## Doctor Damage

Arnaud Bamberger, always well turned out for polo matches (I believe he's the head of Cartier). In these photos he's wearing a classically proportioned d-b blazer. I have a bunch of photos of him in nice single-breasted blazers which I will post later.







DocD


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## Doctor Damage

More blazers in classic styles. The first photo has already been seen before: Simon Tomlinson accompanying the PofW.



Alan Wicker, recently deceased, at a polo match with his wife.



Lars Baron, who I believe is a horse racing coach or trainer.



These two photos are spectators at polo matches. The first one was taken in Argentina, but I cannot remember the location of the second photo.



DocD


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## crazyquik

Do you have to be an aristocrat or have naval affiliation to wear a DB blazer? Everytime I've seen one in person something didn't quite look right.

The gentlemen below seem to be in a resort setting however.


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## dandypauper

Still waiting for your "ultimate blazer." What would you recommend for someone who rarely wears any gold, i.e. stainless watch, platinum or white gold wedding ring, etc, as an alternative to brass buttons? Yes, I think a DB blazer looks a little silly outside of (or fittingly, but especially, at) polo matches, on the Pinafore, etc.


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## chriscento

*Chriscento*

origins of the blazer:

A blazer or boating jacket is a type of jacket, usually double-breasted although single-breasted blazers have become more common recently. A blazer resembles a suit jacket except that it usually has patch pockets with no flaps, and metal shank buttons. A blazer's cloth is usually of a durable nature as it is used in schools and was used for sport.

They often form part of the uniform dress of bodies, such as airlines, schools, yacht or rowing clubs, and private security organizations. As sporting dress has become more adapted to the activity, the blazer has become more restricted to clubs' social meetings.

Commonly, blazers are navy blue, but almost every colour and combination of colors has been used, particularly by schools and sporting organizations.

Regards,
Honey


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## Doctor Damage

crazyquik said:


> Do you have to be an aristocrat or have naval affiliation to wear a DB blazer? Everytime I've seen one in person something didn't quite look right.


Clearly anyone can wear them, but from my observations and experiences D-B blazers are usually worn by men who don't normally wear jackets of any kind and so simply look wrong in them. It's probably their only jacket and they match it poorly and don't wear it with confidence or whatever. Also, the look may be too familiar in our genetic memories (from over use in the 1980s) for many people to be comfortable seeing it today. On a related topic, there is currently a thread on the Trad Forum discussing if the blazer-and-flannels combination is too much like a security guard uniform to be viable.



dandypauper said:


> Still waiting for your "ultimate blazer." What would you recommend for someone who rarely wears any gold, i.e. stainless watch, platinum or white gold wedding ring, etc, as an alternative to brass buttons? Yes, I think a DB blazer looks a little silly outside of (or fittingly, but especially, at) polo matches, on the Pinafore, etc.


I love blazers so I am probably the wrong person to comment on your question. Having looked a many, many photos of men in blazers I think they require the right shirt, tie, and pants -- and attitude -- to be worn successfully. The "ultimate blazer"? Patience is a virtue...many more photos to come, including some of blazers _sans_ gold/silver buttons (which may give useful ideas for you).

DocD


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## Doctor Damage

These three photos show classic blazers worn by a perennial favourite of these forums, Prince Michael of Kent. The first photo below is a decade old, or thereabouts, and shows him wearing the standard flat gold buttons while standing with his wife.



This photo is only a week or two old and he's at a polo match if I remember correctly. Note the shirt/tie combination (he seems to wear crested ties a lot lately) and the super-dark grey pants. Also note the generally high button stance.



Here is Prince Michael with Victoria Beckham, and some homeless guy she's picked up. Maybe it can be argued that classic blazers look fussy or contrived, but I'd much rather be dressed like PMofK than the guy on the right.



DocD


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## jml90

Matt S said:


> https://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e314/Mattspaiser/dl009.jpg
> James Bond's 6x3 blazer. Very naval uniform-like. This is from The Man with the Golden Gun. George Lazenby also wore one in On Her Majesty's Secret Service.


Brosnan wore a 6x2 in Goldeney too, but unbuttoned


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## Doctor Damage

This is (the deposed) King Constantine II of Greece at his home in London. Note the high button stance of his blazer. This jacket is I think a good option for someone getting a bespoke blazer but who doesn't want one that looks like a RTW blazer, which usually have buttons mounted lower on the jacket and much larger lapels. It's an interesting but still orthodox variation.





DocD


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## Matt S

jml90 said:


> Brosnan wore a 6x2 in Goldeney too, but unbuttoned


That wasn't right. Moore also wore a 6x2 in Moonraker and For Your Eyes Only. He didn't wear a tie with either. The poloneck shirt in Moonraker was a nice casual touch. I noticed that while Moore's blazer had side vents, the stuntman's had a centre vent. Moore had slip-on shoes while the stuntman had laced. I guess laces are necessary when you fall out of an airplane.
The open neck shirt in For Your Eyes Only worked well too, I thought.


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## Doctor Damage

Blazers being worn in nautical settings, at the Royal New Zealand Yacht Squadron.





DocD


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## crazyquik

NATO Secretary General, Jaap de Hoop Scheffer. Yes, he'd Dutch.


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## Doctor Damage

Prince Albert of Monaco, photographed at various locations. He looks most relaxed with the four young ladies, which is not surprising given his reputation.







Here's a couple more photos of the Swedish king wearing a 6X2 blazer with muted buttons. Oddly, his wife is in traditional dress but he is not.



DocD


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## Doctor Damage

Prince Charles with one of his heroes, Spike Milligan (in blazer, regimental buttons, and artillery tie).



Prince Edward in blazer. His jackets always look a bit...odd.




I've posted this photo before, but it's worth repeating as a rare example of a black blazer with silver buttons. The man is Don Francisco de Borbon Y Escasany Duke of Seville.



DocD


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## jml90

Doctor Damage said:


> Prince Edward in blazer. His jackets always look a bit...odd.


As in at least 2 sizes too big?


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## english_gent

DB with 6 metal buttons ! *shudders*


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## TE Hesketh

jml90 said:


> As in at least 2 sizes too big?


I think its a styling issue rather than size. The length of the jacket and the sleeves don't look too bad, but the buttoning point is much too low. The problem seems to be more that the lapel notches are very low, which in turn has pushed the button stance very low. This was a designer look popular at the start of the 90s. I would bet that it is simply a RTW blazer.

Rob


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## A Questionable Gentleman

jml90 said:


> Brosnan wore a 6x2 in Goldeney too, but unbuttoned


Forgiveable as he was, without permission, boarding the yacht Manticore. No doubt, he unbuttoned the jacket to facilitate access to the Walther PPK, should it be needed.


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## Tom Buchanan

TE Hesketh said:


> I think its a styling issue rather than size. The length of the jacket and the sleeves don't look too bad, but the buttoning point is much too low. The problem seems to be more that the lapel notches are very low, which in turn has pushed the button stance very low. This was a designer look popular at the start of the 90s. I would bet that it is simply a RTW blazer.
> 
> Rob


I agree. I think the buttoning stance is far too low.

I also think he is leaving the bottom button undone, which seems to throw off the balance as well.

I think the low stance pushed in the early 90s looked awful on most men. Worst was the 6x1 with a low Italian inspired cut that was popular for a while. Since most men have a bit of a gut, the button often hit below the bulge, causing the jacket to look open at the top. I much prefer the high stance shown on Prince Michael and others above. Prince Charles' double breasted suits are always perfectly balanced to my eye as well.


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## Doctor Damage

Here's my final group of photos of 6X2 blazers being worn in the normal way, i.e. buttoned up. The first photo is from left to right: Sevan Stephan (I like the way his shirt is moving on him), Hannah Waddingham (nice smile! nice everything!), and Charles Aznavour in a d-b blazer with interesting two-tone buttons.

Below are two photos that show just how short double-breasted blazers can be worn. The first photo is from left to right: Prince Gustav of Berleburg, Crown Prince Pavlos of Greece, and Carlos Morales Quintana. The second photo is of Diana standing with Ken Wharfe, her police bodyguard.

DocD

_*What's Next?*
(1) Photos of double-breasted blazers being worn un-buttoned. Sloppy, or casual style?
(2) Photos of 6X1 blazers.
(3) Photos of double-breasted blazers without metal buttons. Modern classic? Or unnecessary compromise?
(4) Photos of 8 button double-breasted blazers. Does anyone other than Prince Charles wear one?
(5) Photos of single-breasted blazers. More reliable than double-breasted?_


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## Doctor Damage

*Double-breasted Blazers...unbuttoned*

I know most members here disapprove of wearing d-b jacket unbuttoned, but I submit it can, on some men, look rather stylish. On the other hand, on some men it looks sloppy. So...in no particular order, blazers being worn unbuttoned.

Prince William.

Lt.Col. Sean O'Dwyer, who was assistant to Fergie and latterly Sophie.

Paddy McNally escorting two Windsors, and the husband/boyfriend of Nadia Swarovski.

Prince Edward wearing unbuttoned blazer (with Kathy Ireland), and his police bodyguard the same (who, admitedly, needs to be able to access inside his jacket).

DocD


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## jml90

A Questionable Gentleman said:


> Forgiveable as he was, without permission, boarding the yacht Manticore. No doubt, he unbuttoned the jacket to facilitate access to the Walther PPK, should it be needed.


Oh yes I forgot about that. 


TE Hesketh said:


> I think its a styling issue rather than size. The length of the jacket and the sleeves don't look too bad, but the buttoning point is much too low. The problem seems to be more that the lapel notches are very low, which in turn has pushed the button stance very low. This was a designer look popular at the start of the 90s. I would bet that it is simply a RTW blazer.
> 
> Rob


I dunno the shoulders still look off to me.


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## Artisan Fan

Cool pics. Thanks!

The 8X3 blazer doesn't do it for me. A bit much.


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## Doctor Damage

Andrew Parker-Bowles (presumably those are regimental buttons).



Here is young Nicola von Bismark, with 'other people' at a fashion show. The Sartorialist took a photo of him last year in London, although he did not realize the young man's identity.



Two examples of d-b blazers with muted buttons, unbuttoned. John Standing and his wife, and one of the Mountbattens on the left in the lower photo.





The muted buttons thing seems really popular today, which is probably a good reason to avoid it. This is David Lauren with his bride-to-be.



DocD


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## crazyquik

Doctor Damage said:


> Andrew Parker-Bowles (presumably those are regimental buttons).
> 
> The muted buttons thing seems really popular today, which is probably a good reason to avoid it. This is David Lauren with his bride-to-be.
> 
> DocD


I didn't expect to see tassel loafers...


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## Doctor Damage

crazyquik said:


> I didn't expect to see tassel loafers...


Same here. David Lauren is of course, American, so we might expect him to wear tassel loafers, but Camilla's ex is one of the last people I would expect to see wearing tassel loafers.

DocD


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## Doctor Damage

Now it's time for the dreaded *6X1 Blazers*!!!

Jamie Blandford, heir to the Duke of Marlborough, with his long-suffering recent ex-wife (first photo) and with some other men at Goodwood (second photo).

This is Ronald Ferguson, father of Fergie and polo manager to Prince Charles for a period.

The man in this photo is named David Andrew. I can't remember who he is but I think he must an executive with the company that is sponsoring the polo match on the sign behind him.

I agree with others that the 6X1 jacket does not fit most men well, although I think those with a trim waist and big chest might be okay.

DocD


----------



## Doctor Damage

Hmm...not much debate on this thread. Oh well, on to the eight button blazers. Of course, we've all seen photos of Prince Charles wearing his 8X3 blazer (mostly when he was younger and trimmer), and his father has been wearing a curious 8X2 blazer with small buttons on the lowest row.





But these are not worn just by the royal family. According to one of our Ask Andy members, eight button blazers are often associated with regimental polo groups, etc. Here are three retired cavalry officers wearing 8X3 blazers. The first man is an unidentified equerry, but the man with Fergie is Lt Col Sean O'Dwyer, while the man squireing the ladies in the second set of photos is Maj James Hewitt.





Getting away from the royal family and its servants, here is a man at a dinner party wearing an 8X4 blazer with regimental tie & flushed cheeks. I rather like how his tie is slightly off, as it gives him a bit of personal style. He is a member of the Light Cavalry HAC in the UK.



But where did these things come from? It's impossible to know for sure, but logically they evolved from naval jackets, which are 8X4 in configuration. With that in mind, here are two photos of the Duke wearing an 8X4 blazer, pre-dating all of the previous photos.



Next up, single-breasted blazers.

DocD


----------



## A Questionable Gentleman

I note the prevalence of the unbuttoned DB blazer. It appears to be quite acceptable in the exalted circles in which many of the wearers move. There's a bit of swagger about it.


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## Doctor Damage

Should have posted these ones of Prince Phillip in my above post. Check out the knife-edge crease on those pants!



DocD


----------



## culverwood

No 6x3s yet?


----------



## Artisan Fan

Nice pics Doc. The DB is healthy and alive in Europe!


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## Doctor Damage

culverwood said:


> No 6x3s yet?


I did those at the start, flip back!
(I rolled them into the "reefer jacket" category.)

DocD


----------



## Literide

Doctor Damage said:


> I did those at the start, flip back!
> (I rolled them into the "reefer jacket" category.)
> 
> DocD


Touche'


----------



## Literide

crazyquik said:


> I didn't expect to see tassel loafers...


Young Mr Lauren needs a tailor!


----------



## Doctor Damage

*Single-breasted blazers!*

Single-breasted blazers!

First, the classic 2-button version. Worn by Prince Albert (note his father in d-b blazer), and by three men of whom two don't need introduction.

Here's a British version of the 2-button with double vents, worn by Prince William at a recent Scout event. (I posted a thread recently with several more photos from this event, so if you like this blazer search for that thread.)

This is Desmond Guiness, with 5 buttons on his cuffs.

Tomorrow: 3-button blazers and crested.

DocD


----------



## Albert

Doctor Damage said:


> First, the classic 2-button version. Worn by Prince Albert (note his father in d-b blazer), and by three men of whom two don't need introduction.


Again: a terrific topic with beautiful pictures! Thank you very much for sharing, DocD. Two questions: I have always regarded the three-button SB blazer as more "classical". Is it possible to make up such a ranking between two-button and three-button? Secondly, isn't Prince Albert wearing a three-button with rolled-over top button? (this might be just my eyes as well).

Cheers,
A.


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## nicksull




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## Matt S

Prince Albert's is a three button. Desmond Guiness is also wearing a 3-button. I think you should also differentiate between the American sack blazer and the English side vented blazers. I don't think a darted American blazer with center vent (blue suit jacket with brass buttons) should be considered the same as an English single breasted blazer with side vents.


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## Doctor Damage

I just realized that Guinness is wearing a 3-button blazer, oops! Anyway, here's David Niven in a nice blazer from one of the Pink Panther movies.



The photos below are of Arnaud Bamberger at Goodwood, wearing a 3-button S-B blazer and looking very relaxed. In the second photo he's standing with Lord March (and his wife) and Riccardo Patrese, whom long-time F1 fans will remember.





Prince Albert again, with his sister.



This photo is particularly illustrative of the "officer & gentleman" set, as the man on the left is Lt Col Seymour Gilbert Denham, a former Crown Equerry, and the man on the right is Prince Georg of Hanover.



DocD


----------



## Doctor Damage

Time for some *Crested Blazers*, and what is more or less the end of this thread. I've sort of run out of interesting photos, although I have tons more; it's just that the rest are largely repetitive. Anyway...

Bing Crosby with back-up singers in 1962.

Prince Albert again with a great crest.

Author David Gold at a book launch party, with his daughter.

...and finally a photo of a cricket team coach (identity unknown).

I hope everyone enjoyed all these photos and got some ideas. I will post up more photos from time to time, and I encourage members to post stuff they find.

DocD


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## Didactical

Awesome thread, thanks for all the photos!


----------



## spielerman

Doctor Damage said:


> Time for some *Crested Blazers*, and what is more or less the end of this thread. I've sort of run out of interesting photos, although I have tons more; it's just that the rest are largely repetitive. Anyway...
> 
> Bing Crosby with back-up singers in 1962.
> Prince Albert again with a great crest.
> 
> Author David Gold at a book launch party, with his daughter.
> 
> ...and finally a photo of a cricket team coach (identity unknown).
> 
> I hope everyone enjoyed all these photos and got some ideas. I will post up more photos from time to time, and I encourage members to post stuff they find.
> 
> DocD


Yes, I wish my navy blazer had that kind of candy attached to each sleeve.


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## rocco

White shirt, black 6x2 blazer, medium grey trousers, black loafers.

Incorrect but it works?? I like the strong contrast of the tie, shirt and blazer.


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## rocco

What are the shoes here (left)?


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## Reddington

rocco said:


> What are the shoes here (left)?


To me, they look like navy canvas boat shoes.


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## Hard2Fit

I love this thread. 
Keep the great pics coming!


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## Matt S

rocco said:


> White shirt, black 6x2 blazer, medium grey trousers, black loafers.
> 
> Incorrect but it works?? I like the strong contrast of the tie, shirt and blazer.


There is nothing incorrect here. The blazer is not black, but a true navy. White shirt and black shoes are appropriate.


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## rocco

Matt S said:


> There is nothing incorrect here. The blazer is not black, but a true navy. White shirt and black shoes are appropriate.


I don't doubt what you say... but it *looks *black to me! To my eyes I cannot discern any blue at all.


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## Matt S

rocco said:


> I don't doubt what you say... but it *looks *black to me! To my eyes I cannot discern any blue at all.


It is a true navy, which looks black in certain light and on computer screens. I have a blazer in a similar colour. Look at the uniforms of the Royal Navy.


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## Reddington

There appears to be an awful lot of double-breasted blazers featured on this thread. Not that it's a bad thing, mind you. I just found the ratio of double-breasted to 2 / 3 button blazers to be exceptionally high.


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## Hard2Fit

Agreed.


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## Rossini

Yes, indeed. More single-breasted please!


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## Reddington

Here's one of Prince William looking quite the gent.


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## Reddington

Reddington said:


> Here's one of Prince William looking quite the gent.


Repost. The first picture didn't post correctly & it was too late to edit my original post.


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## ebnewman

Reddington said:


> Repost. The first picture didn't post correctly & it was too late to edit my original post.


Looks rather ill-fitted actually


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## DOn_Gotti

Doesn't look like a blazer to me


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## 16412

Reddington said:


> Repost. The first picture didn't post correctly & it was too late to edit my original post.


Looks like a hacking jacket and he is walking away from his horse and a unhappy ride.

Like the collar and lapel.


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## Khnelben

*that's ...*

a Guards parade the Princes went to.

the jackets are supposed to fit like that on the cuff. The suit is perhaps made by Gives. But it's just a suit - pants and jacket.

Andrey


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## Doctor Damage

Some photos comparing Prince Charles to his chauffeur in 1986/87. I think I've mentioned this before: Charles is wearing a black blazer with what might be braided leather buttons (like normally worn on a tweed jacket) on two separate occasions. His chauffeur is wearing the blazer with silver buttons.


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## Oxonian

Can't resist, although I already posted this in the trad forum. I thought members might enjoy this photo of me in boat club garb--blazer and tie--at Oxford's Summer Eights recently. (I know the French cuffs and indeed the white colour of the shirt itself isn't ideal, but it was what I had clean and pressed on the day!)


----------



## The Louche

Matt S said:


> There is nothing incorrect here. The blazer is not black, but a true navy. White shirt and black shoes are appropriate.


The picture above, of Roger Moore on the Hollywood walk of fame, irritates me. I don't so much mind the black shoes with a blazer, but I can't stand MIXING METALS!! He has gold-tone buttons on his blazer, and silver-toned bits on his loafers! My mother tells me I'm crazy and that it's classless to worry about these things, but I can't help it. Does anyone else agree? Or is mixing metals just part of sartorial non-chalance and rakishness?


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## Sator

Doctor Damage said:


> *Origins of the Blazer*
> 
> _Reefer Jackets_
> 
> As I noted at the start of this post, Boyer describes the modern blazer as a stylized version of the "reefer" jacket, allegedly named after a certain group of seamen who reefed in sails.
> 
> The reefer jacket is a double-breasted jacket buttoning 6X3 and traditionally worn for nautical and sailing activities by civilians. The term "reefer jacket" also describes the jacket worn today by Royal Navy petty officers (senior ranks) as full dress. These jackets are as the civilian jacket described above, but with gold RN buttons and three small gold buttons placed horizontally on each sleeve, a design which has not changed substantially since the 19th century.
> 
> Ultimately, I think Boyer was spot on when he said the problem with blazers lies with misuse of the word "blazer", not the jackets themselves. Originally referring to the brightly hued and striped jackets worn by England's rowing teams and schoolboys, over time the word "blazer" broadened to include solid-coloured jackets with metal buttons and today, in a particularly unfortunate misappropriation of the word, includes odd jackets of nearly any kind.


I am reviving this old thread after finding this in a highly authoritative English textbook for cutters and tailors from London, 1951. The particular quote comes from a section written by the editor himself of the three volumes of _The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier_, A.A. Whife. Whife was the then President of the National Federation of Practical Master and Foreman Tailor's Societies and Technical Editor of "The Tailor and Cutter".










There is also a section for the "reefer jacket" in both the civilian and military uniform sections that is double breasted. The buttons are only described in the military section.


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## Doctor Damage

Sator said:


> I am reviving this old thread after finding this in a highly authoritative English textbook for cutters and tailors from London, 1951. The particular quote comes from a section written by the editor himself of the three volumes of _The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier_, A.A. Whife. Whife was the then President of the National Federation of Practical Master and Foreman Tailor's Societies and Technical Editor of "The Tailor and Cutter".
> 
> ...
> 
> There is also a section for the "reefer jacket" in both the civilian and military uniform sections that is double breasted. The buttons are only described in the military section.


Thanks for adding that good info. Your post reminds me that my local university library has some old books like that and I should really get down there and educate myself.

Ralph Lauren/Polo is currently selling these "yachtsman's blazers".

https://img228.imageshack.us/my.php?image=poloyachtsmanblazermt5.jpghttps://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php


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## Doctor Damage

From the Guards Polo Club website.


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## Zingari

Doctor Damage said:


> From the Guards Polo Club website.


Cavalry (polo) blazer given the button placement.

Reference Prince Charles with the 'black buttons' they are most likely regimental - from the era I would say Royal Green Jackets (albeit blaxer would be very dark green) or Light Infantry.


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## Cottonshirt

Doctor Damage said:


> The term "reefer jacket" also describes the jacket worn today by Royal Navy petty officers (senior ranks) as full dress. These jackets are as the civilian jacket described above, but with gold RN buttons and _three small gold buttons placed horizontally on each sleeve_, a design which has not changed substantially since the 19th century.


 [emphasis added]

I read this whole thread expecting someone to have corrected the mistake in Doctor Damage's second post, but they haven't so it is up to me. Not, I hasten to add, because I disagree with his conclusion, I too have found that _HMS Blazer_ story too much to swallow. His error is in the three gold buttons.

There are three ranks of non-commissioned officers in the Royal Navy: Petty Officers, Chief Petty Officers, and Warrant Officers. They all wear the same basic jacket. It is a 6x3 DB jacket with two gold buttons on each cuff, two vertical rows of three gold buttons on the front; all buttons have the RN crest of a fouled anchor (a killick). The jacket has no vents and two straight flap pockets. There is a single breast pocket and a buttonhole in each lapel.

*Petty Officers* wear their branch badge on the right upper arm and the Petty Officer's rank badge of crossed anchors on the upper left arm. Below this will be up to three long service badges (stripes) if earned.

*Chief Petty Officers* wear their branch badge on both lapels and wear three gold buttons horizontally across their cuff.

*Warrant Officers* wear no branch badge and replace the three gold buttons with a Warrant Officer's crest.

So, it is only Chief Petty Officers who wear the three gold buttons described by Doctor Damage.

Excellent thread though and many thanks to the Doctor for his fine pictures.


----------



## Rothers

Thought I would add some detail to this old thread...

Officers of the Regiments of The Household Division- the 5 Regiments of Foot Guards and The Household Cavalry are all required to buy Regimental "boating jackets" upon commissioning from Sandhurst. These are essentially blazers with Regimental buttons- and are what are pictured in many photos in this thread.

Apart from being used as blazers, they are also worn as part of "Pirbright Order", when they are worn with uniform trousers with red stripes, for smarter social occasions such as Mess drinks parties.

Apart from the buttons, each Regimental boating jacket is slightly different to make them Regimentally distinctive. The five Regiments of Foot Guards are ranked in order of seniority, depending upon when they were formed:

1. Grenadier Guards
2. Coldstream Guards
3. Scots Guards
4. Irish Guards
5. Welsh Guards

Each Regiment's Red ceremonial tunics have a slightly different configuration of buttons, to reflect this seniority. I.e. The Grenadiers have single buttons, the Coldstream have their buttons in pairs, Scots in groups of 3. A quick search on google images will show you this...

These Regimental peculiarities are also reflected in Regimental boating jackets, for example the Coldstream will have 4 cuff buttons in 2 pairs, and 8 buttons on the front, with the buttons un evenly spaced in 2 horizontal rows.

Welcome to the weird and wonderful world of The Household Division...

Photo attached shows to Officers of the Irish Guards in Regimental Boating Jackets. Note, buttons in fours...!

https://postimage.org/
upload pictures


----------



## arkirshner

Rothers said:


> Thought I would add some detail to this old thread...
> 
> Officers of the Regiments of The Household Division- the 5 Regiments of Foot Guards and The Household Cavalry are all required to buy Regimental "boating jackets" upon commissioning from Sandhurst. These are essentially blazers with Regimental buttons- and are what are pictured in many photos in this thread.
> 
> Apart from being used as blazers, they are also worn as part of "Pirbright Order", when they are worn with uniform trousers with red stripes, for smarter social occasions such as Mess drinks parties.
> 
> Apart from the buttons, each Regimental boating jacket is slightly different to make them Regimentally distinctive. The five Regiments of Foot Guards are ranked in order of seniority, depending upon when they were formed:
> 
> 1. Grenadier Guards
> 2. Coldstream Guards
> 3. Scots Guards
> 4. Irish Guards
> 5. Welsh Guards
> 
> Each Regiment's Red ceremonial tunics have a slightly different configuration of buttons, to reflect this seniority. I.e. The Grenadiers have single buttons, the Coldstream have their buttons in pairs, Scots in groups of 3. A quick search on google images will show you this...
> 
> These Regimental peculiarities are also reflected in Regimental boating jackets, for example the Coldstream will have 4 cuff buttons in 2 pairs, and 8 buttons on the front, with the buttons un evenly spaced in 2 horizontal rows.
> 
> Welcome to the weird and wonderful world of The Household Division...
> 
> Photo attached shows to Officers of the Irish Guards in Regimental Boating Jackets. Note, buttons in fours...!
> 
> https://postimage.org/
> upload pictures


Welcome to the forum and thank you for a most informative post. The depth and breadth of your country's traditions certainly are remarkable. Your sense of history is far greater than ours.

Today is my country's Independence Day and we have done rather well since we parted ways, still I cannot help but think it a shame that the folks back then didn't come to a compromise. Again, welcome to the forum.

Regards,

Alan


----------



## eagle2250

^^
Looking at that pic, seems the first time I recall feeling a fan of double breasted navy blazer. Gotta admit though, those two fine young fellows are indeed wearing the design well. Thanks for the contribution Rothers, and welcome to the forum!


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## Doctor Damage

Excellent post from rothers... one of my acquaintances had run across a reference to d-b blazers being called "polo jackets," so it's interesting to hear them being called "boating jackets."

Here's some recent pics of Prince Philip wearing his rather unique blazer (and, oddly for him, penny loafers).

https://postimg.org/image/ikj1nqewx/https://postimg.org/image/htmoiabyb/https://postimg.org/image/e8wqbdz3t/https://postimg.org/image/lq88romwx/https://postimg.org/image/tnl8ofvfz/


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## Doctor Damage

Prince Edward visiting his father in hospital.

https://postimg.org/image/46odrw5bt/https://postimg.org/image/dxlphv3sp/https://postimg.org/image/b7cdko73t/https://postimg.org/image/t8tq0ihv3/


----------



## MaxBuck

Doctor Damage said:


> Prince Edward visiting his father in hospital.
> 
> https://postimg.org/image/46odrw5bt/https://postimg.org/image/dxlphv3sp/https://postimg.org/image/b7cdko73t/https://postimg.org/image/t8tq0ihv3/


Prince Edward should really make sure his coat is properly pressed before wearing it in public, and I don't understand why royals insist on tucking their ties into their trousers. Oh, and can his valet not learn to tie a tie with a proper dimple?

British royals are seldom incorrect sartorially, and similarly they are seldom truly well dressed IMO. Expensive but rumpled and careless clothing looks worse than inexpensive goods that are superbly tailored and properly cared for. I'm quite certain that the pictured blazer cost more than my car.


----------



## a.ashley

in reply to Louche:
The picture above, of Roger Moore on the Hollywood walk of fame, irritates me. I don't so much mind the black shoes with a blazer, but I can't stand MIXING METALS!! He has gold-tone buttons on his blazer, and silver-toned bits on his loafers! My mother tells me I'm crazy and that it's classless to worry about these things, but I can't help it. Does anyone else agree? Or is mixing metals just part of sartorial non-chalance and rakishness?​
Last edited by The Louche; June 6th, 2008 at 10:57.
​I at one time worried about the mixing of metals but now I feel it is part of the sartorial nonchalance. What changed my opinion was finding a few gold and silver tie-bars belonging to my late grandfather. When done in a complementary way it can truly bring together an outfit. He was quite classic and conservative in style so I feel that the disdain for metal mixing may seem trifling, it is just a matter of personal preference.


----------



## Doctor Damage

Beckham turned out well in a blazer for Wimbledon (accompanied by his undead wife).

https://postimg.org/image/lv2jo7l33/https://postimg.org/image/e61iuyhsd/


----------



## arkirshner

Doctor Damage said:


> Beckham turned out well in a blazer for Wimbledon (accompanied by his undead wife).
> 
> https://postimg.org/image/lv2jo7l33/https://postimg.org/image/e61iuyhsd/


Perhaps Mr. Beckham will consider reviving the practice of wearing gloves during the day.


----------



## Doctor Damage

Senior officers of the 2nd Battalion Coldstream Guards wearing blazers with buttons in pairs (like on that regiment's uniforms).


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## eagle2250

^^Now that is just the way it should look! Oddly
I feel this irrational urge to rush right out and shop for a double breasted blazer. Advertising really does work. :crazy:


----------



## Oldsarge

That would be my fourth. I have a 3-season single breasted, a summer single-breasted, and a Donegal tweed single-breasted. Having come late to the double breasted look with my tuxedo and my pea coat I, too, feel a need to emulate the stylish Mr. Lauren. Hmmm . . .

Mr. Hemrajani, are you reading this? After all, I already have the trousers and just bought the turtleneck (BB on sale, marked down $100) . . .


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> ^^Now that is just the way it should look! Oddly
> I feel this irrational urge to rush right out and shop for a double breasted blazer. Advertising really does work. :crazy:


God yes it does. I'll make fun of it as much as the next guy, but all it takes is that "right" shot of something - a shoe, blazer, shirt, sweater, etc. - and my money and me are soon parting.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> God yes it does. I'll make fun of it as much as the next guy, but all it takes is that "right" shot of something - a shoe, blazer, shirt, sweater, etc. - and my money and me are soon parting.


Yup!


----------



## Doctor Damage

I'm pleased to note that I have a blazer much like that. It started out as a Lord & Taylor suit which I never found the pants. I got an alterations guy to take in the waist a bit, then I put some massive domed gold buttons on the front and smaller ones on the cuffs. It's very much a f-you sort of blazer, but also awesome, and looks much like this:

(click for large)
https://postimg.org/image/jg5vmr6pf/ https://postimg.org/image/hlmvj26h1/


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## Oldsarge

Now all you need is the manor house and a huge estate.


----------



## outofstyle

does this blazer look dated?


----------



## eagle2250

^^
Not to my eye, but it would probably hang/drape better if you were to hang the jacket on a proper hanger. The hanger in used is undersized and over worked!


----------



## Tom3

outofstyle said:


> does this blazer look dated?
> 
> View attachment 16998


This question invites opinions: my opinion is this coat looks like a darted two-button, 3+" lapel, with low closure stance that will never look really dated. I might look at the three cuff buttons or the besom/flap pockets and think end-of-20th Century jacket trying to be too many things to too many people, but not dated. Just, of course, my opinion.

Tom

PS - I agree with Eagle on the hanger!


----------



## Doctor Damage

7th Marquess of Northampton wearing a two-piece black suit with silver buttons. It would be a blazer if he mislaid the pants.

https://postimg.org/image/5n5w4yycr/ https://postimg.org/image/4xn3skv8b/


----------



## Oldsarge

Or wore them out. Hard to imagine a man with that kind of fortune doing so, though.


----------



## Shaver

Oldsarge said:


> Or wore them out. Hard to imagine a man with that kind of fortune doing so, though.


Humphrey Smith, owner of Sam Smith brewery, one of the richest men in Yorkshire, could often be seen around Tadcaster dressed in more or less the same attire as I but in threadbare versions .


----------



## paxonus

Shaver said:


> Humphrey Smith, owner of Sam Smith brewery, one of the richest men in Yorkshire, could often be seen around Tadcaster dressed in more or less the same attire as I but in threadbare versions .


Speaking of threadbare, here is a story about traditions of rowing clubs competing at Henley:

As Mr Parkin observed of his own jacket: 'This coffee stain is from four years ago and this is beer from last year. It does show up worse on the light coloured jackets but it is all part of the history.'

Steve Salter, 29 years, from London Rowing Club added of his blazer: 'I am told that each stain is supposed to tell a story and be a badge of honour. It is something that has been passed down from the older members.

'Each member is told when they get their blazer that it is bad luck to get it cleaned. Nobody questions it.'










Read more: https://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/...losely-stains-badge-honour.html#ixzz55tsTtcJm 
Follow us: @MailOnline on Twitter | DailyMail on Facebook


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## Oldsarge

Ewww!


----------



## EclecticSr.

Doctor Damage said:


> 7th Marquess of Northampton wearing a two-piece black suit with silver buttons. It would be a blazer if he mislaid the pants.
> 
> https://postimg.org/image/5n5w4yycr/ https://postimg.org/image/4xn3skv8b/


Might be best if the entire outfit were mislaid.


----------



## Doctor Damage




----------



## Doctor Damage




----------



## Doctor Damage




----------



## London380sl

Doctor Damage said:


> View attachment 30050


Looks like the group on the left is a part of a polo team wearing Hackett polo shirts.

Incredibly not one of the men in that photo understand the concept of pant breaks. Everyone one of them have improperly hemmed pants.

At least the blonde in the middle looks good.


----------



## Doctor Damage




----------



## Doctor Damage

Not sure if I posted these photos before. Another option for blazer people. These are boating jackets of the Royal Yacht Squadron. Basically a black d-b blazer with special black domed buttons. The royals seem to prefer dark (black?) trousers but the third photo shows that other members don't.


----------



## zzdocxx

Thanks for the thread.

Looks like the earlier image links are all toast, at least from here, unfortunately.


----------



## Doctor Damage




----------



## Skipperino

The history of royal navy uniforms is one of my great personal interests, so I thought I should weigh into this conversation 

Most of the information in this post comes from 'Royal Navy Dress' by Dudley Jarrett, and the various appendices to the Royal Navy lists.

The Royal navy was quite late to adopting uniforms for its commissioned officers. (And even later for the lower decks). An order in council of 1748 authorised two uniforms for all ranks of admirals, captains, commanders, lieutenants and one for midshipmen. There was a dress uniform, which was basically a navy blue version of the 'justacorps' that had been adopted in 1660 by the royal court by order of Charles II, long coat, whitewhite ' cuffs with three buttons placed horizontally, and no collar, worn with breeches, and a working uniform that was plainer, double breasted with a stand collar, white lapels that could be buttoned across, or buttoned back depending on the weather, with white 'mariners' cuffs that could be buttoned back. In 1767, the dress uniform was abolished and the working uniform became the dress uniform, which was supplimented after 1774 by a similar, much plainer uniform that had no lace. These two uniforms were worn for the rest of the 18th and 19th centuries, with differences depending on cut. By 1827, the plainer, working 'undress' uniform had evolved into what was essentially the same as a civilian white tie tailcoat, only navy blue with brass uniform buttons and worn with a black cravat or stock, and was at this time usually worn buttoned up at this time, and continuing the tradition established in the original dress uniform, three buttons were placed horizontally on the sleeves . The dress uniform after 1827 was only to be worn buttoned up to the neck, and with minor variations, had 10 buttons in two rows and had a white collar and still featured the mariners cuffs (although they were purely decorative by this point). Midshipmens uniform differed in that it was single breasted and had three buttons on the cuffs like the other officers dress uniforms. At this point, chief petty officers had not been introduced and warrant officers had (in 1774) been granted a version of the officers working uniform as their all purpose uniform. The different grades of admiral wore stripes on the sleeves of their dress uniforms from 1783, and this was extended to the working uniform in 1846. From 1825, officers and midshipmen could wear a version of the working uniform, without the tails, that was called the 'round jacket' and was worn only at sea and with a cap. This is what developed into the mess jacket. From 1847, a uniform frock coat was introduced, very civilian in cut, navy blue again with uniform buttons. This was the basic uniform for officers in the 19th century as the dress uniform increasingly became used only for the most formal of occasions and the now not so much-working dress became increasingly used for evening wear and dining, and started to be worn open. After 1853, the rates of chief petty officer and leading hand had been introduced. At this point, non-officers had no official uniform but their dress became increasingly standardised through standard issue 'slops'. By the early 1840s this had become standardised as a loose jumper or 'frock' with a collar, loosely tied black neckerchief and bellbottomed trousers. This is the famous 'square rig' or sailor suit. Over this, from at least the early 1700s, had been worn a short blue jacket, similar to that later issued to officers as the round jacket, for ease in reefing sails, which they often decorated with white tape. Self-woven straw or 'sennet' hats were worn by the lower rates. This became authorised as the official ratings uniform in 1857, and was worn by all lower ratings; chief petty officers, petty officers, leading seamen and other seamen alike. From 1856, all ranks of commissioned officers wore stripes on the sleeves of all their uniforms like the admirals already were doing, and after 1879 horizontal buttons on the frock coat were also worn by all commissioned officers. A curious bit of cultural snobbery happened in the 1860s however: to work the new steam engines that were being introduced, the navy needed engineers, and many were loath to wear the square rig, and were instead issued 'fore and aft rig', which had already been worn by carpenter's mates and several other higher end rates from roughly 1863. It consisted of the peaked cap, double breasted jacket with four buttons either side, (one was underneath the lapel), and navy blue trousers. In 1879, chief petty officers were also put into the fore and aft rig', the jacket of which was referred to as the 'long jacket' to distinguish it from the short round jacket. In addition, several higher ranked chief petty officers, such as masters at arms (head of the ships police), chief engine room artificers and chief medical assistants, were granted use of the horizontal buttons on the cuffs like on the warrant officers uniforms and on the commissioned officers plain tailcoat and frock coat, and as a full dress uniform were allowed use of a single breasted version of the commissioned officers frock coat. After 1890, the lower ratings no longer wore the shirt jacket and were instead issued with 'normal' peacoats. After 1891, the horizontal cuff buttons were no longer worn by commissioned officers apart from midshipmen, as well as still being worn by warrant officers and senior chief petty officers. Petty officers still wore square rig at this point. In 1879, a 'ship jacket', which was basically the same as the famous reefer jacket, was introduced, only for wear in bad weather or at night; the idea being that basically, these sort of 'lounge' jackets were only suitable for the lower rates (ie. Working class), the everyday wear of upper and upper middle class men at this time of course being the frock coat. This ship jacket was abolished in 1884 and replaced by a blue high necked tunic, but it was bought back in 1889. It had five buttons either side (one under the collar), and, like the long jacket, had quite a high buttoning stance at this point in time. From 1891, as well as the abolition of their horizontal cuff buttons, the plain tailcoat and round jacket for commissioned officers became their ball dress and mess dress respectively, and the full dress for midshipmen was abolished, leaving them only with the round jacket and reefer jacket (or the plain tailcoat if they were over 18 to act as full dress and ball dress). From 1918, the warrant officers were granted their own version of the commsioned officers full dress uniform, and their cuff buttons were abolished, leaving only the senior chief petty officers with the horizontal cuff buttons, which were extended to all chief petty officers in 1925. From 1920, all petty officers were put in the fore and aft rig' of long jacket and straight trousers, and the sennet hats were abolished and replaced with a peakless sailors' cap. The plain tailcoat was restricted in its use to commissioned officers of the rank of captain and above from 1918, and is still an optional item of dress for them to this day. Admirals and members of the royal family of the rank of commander and above still wear the full dress coat, however this has been heavily simplified, a lot of the gold lace has been removed, and it no longer features mariners cuffs. However both the reefer jacket and mess jacket are still standard issue items for all ranks of commissioned officers in the royal navy. From 1959 onwards, mess jackets were introduced, first for chief petty officers, then petty officers, then for warrant officers, (who had been phased out after 1949 but were reintroduced in 1970), however unlike the commissioned officers version; which features peaked lapels and dummy button holes on the lapels, theirs has instead shawl lapels and is worn only with a cummerbund and not a waistcoat. The frock coat was abolished in 1949, and both the reefer jacket worn by officers and the long jacket worn by chief petty officers and petty officers had been redesigned in the 1930s: the button stance was lowered and the top button removed (the number of remaining buttons was retained, 4 for officers, 3 for CPOs and POs). Since the late 1800s as well, for the men who wore the long jacket for their dress uniform, there was a single breasted version for everyday working tasks, with four buttons down the front and a hook and eye at the neck that could be closed if need be. Like the other jackets this was redesigned in the 1930s to feature instead only three buttons. The frock coat was also redisgned at the same time in much the same way as the reefer jacket, but it was hardly much worn by then. I suspect the single breasted working version of the long jacket may be the origin of the SB civilian blazer, in my not so humble opinion. The RN version was abolished only in 1995.

Phew. Well I hope at least some of that helps. Sorry it was so long winded.


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## eagle2250

^^Wow! That is a lot of details, perhaps more than my admittedly limited memory at my age can manage to retain! But thanks for that very, very thorough report on Navy uniforms.


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## Doctor Damage

99 years old (not the blazer!)


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## Oldsarge

And Eight-button DB? Positively military. Good show!


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## ItalianStyle

I tried to look back in this thread, but most of the pictures don't show up on my PC.
So apologize if this has been asked before.

I'm thinking of converting a navy jacket (SB) into a blazer by simply changing the buttons. Would a blazer with besom pockets be unheard of?
I consider the formality of a blazer somewhere in between the sport jacket and a suit...?


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## Oldsarge

ItalianStyle said:


> I tried to look back in this thread, but most of the pictures don't show up on my PC.
> So apologize if this has been asked before.
> 
> I'm thinking of converting a navy jacket (SB) into a blazer by simply changing the buttons. Would a blazer with besom pockets be unheard of?
> I consider the formality of a blazer somewhere in between the sport jacket and a suit...?


I did something like that and not even the most precious of iGents has ever even noticed. And I concur with your assessment.


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## Doctor Damage

ItalianStyle said:


> I tried to look back in this thread, but most of the pictures don't show up on my PC.
> So apologize if this has been asked before.


Before AAAC had an internal hosting service people like me had to use an outside free hosting service. Most of those have been shut down, or become sign-in-only services, so many of those old photos have been lost. I have all of mine saved on my hard drive, so if you see a post that intrigues you let me know and I'll see if I can dig out the related photos.


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## Charles Dana

ItalianStyle said:


> Would a blazer with besom pockets be unheard of?


Go for it. If you're worried about being shunned if you don a blazer with besom pockets, you can distract people by wearing a SpongeBob Squarepants face mask.



> I consider the formality of a blazer somewhere in between the sport jacket and a suit...?


Yes!


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## Flanderian




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## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 45386


For punting on the Thames, old chap.


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## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> For punting on the Thames, old chap.


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## Doctor Damage




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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge




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## Doctor Damage




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