# Shrinking a Shetland--carefully



## CMDC (Jan 31, 2009)

The other day I thrifted a beautiful wine colored McGeorge shetland from the GU Shop. Its probably a size too large but I'd really like to make it work. I've got to hand wash it anyways so I was wondering what you more experienced gents would recommend to shrink it down a size or so. The most important shrinkage needs to be in the chest.


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## firedancer (Jan 11, 2011)

What a pertinent question. I'm wondering the same thing!


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## godan (Feb 10, 2010)

My "athletic" torso and short arms cause me to shrink the sleeves of sweaters and wool shirts regularly, and this method may apply to the body of garments, with cautions about shrinking the length. I wash and flat dry everything first to dispose of any chemicals. Then, I wet the sleeves, put the sweater into a hot dryer, check the shrinkage after fifteen minutes and then more often, as needed, until the desired sleeve length is achieved. At that point, I remove the garment and air dry it. Those whose affection for wool is more refined may be horrified at this technique, but it has worked for years.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

This question has popped up in various forms over the years. Might be the sort of thing for a "Trad Lab" experiment. Maybe grab a sweater less dear and give it a shot.


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## oxford cloth button down (Jan 1, 2012)

Godan - Thanks for posting! I might try that with a more delicate sweater that I want to shrink.

Trip - I have been experimenting with this exact thing. I just shrunk a Woolrich Fair Isle about 1 inch in all dimensions (width and length) by washing it on hot. I didn't dry it as it fit pretty well. Well worth the $1.75 that I paid for it.

I am not sure what type of wool it is as the inner tag was washed out from age. I am pretty sure it was 100% wool. I have Shetland coming from Art Vandalay soon and will be testing again. I will post my results.

It did wash out the color and make it a lot fuzzier as a result of the wash. See below:









Before









After









Before Full picture










Being worn after


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

TRAD LAB!!!


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## CMDC (Jan 31, 2009)

^Good idea. I'll approach this in the spirit of America's Test Kitchen, documenting everything along the way with scientific rigor.


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## Patrick06790 (Apr 10, 2005)

CMDC said:


> ^Good idea. I'll approach this in the spirit of America's Test Kitchen, documenting everything along the way with scientific rigor.


The blonde woman on ATK is my cousin Julie


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## unmodern (Aug 10, 2009)

I have shrunken a sweater. The key is not to use the washer: just dunk it gently in lukewarm water in the sink, very gently wring it dry, then lay it flat on some towels. Next roll up the towel to wring out excess moisture, arrange the sweater to about 1" less than desired dimensions (to account for restretching) and put heavy things on the edges to hold it. Takes about 2 days to dry fully.


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## Ekphrastic (Oct 4, 2009)

1. I love the idea of a "Trad Lab." I think someone ought to start a thread thus entitled and propose ideas for testing.

2. About shrinking sweaters: I've tried quite extensively. Sometimes, just when you think you'll ruin one, it doesn't shrink at all; sometimes, they shrink compulsively time and again. Cotton and wool also behave a little differently, although the general techniques are the same. Long story short: washing will cause it to shrink. If you want it to shrink more, wash and then throw it in the dryer. If you want it to really, really shrink, wash it in hot water then throw it in the dryer. If you _really_ want it to shrink, saturate it with water and put it in the freezer until it's a solid block of ice; then, throw it in the dryer on high heat--the dryer should already be running with some towels or something in it, thereby preheating the dryer. (Warning: the clunking will drive you insane.)

With most large sweaters, though, washing and drying is enough to achieve the desired size reduction.


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## CMDC (Jan 31, 2009)

Thanks for all the advice guys. Here's hoping I don't end up with a beautiful vintage McGeorge hand puppet.


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

People, put down the wool and back away from your washers and dryers!! You DO NOT want to run your wool garments through the wash unless they're specifically designed for it. What you see happening in the photos that ocbd posted is called "felting." The wool fibers that have been twisted into yarns, when they're soaked and then agitated, intertwine and lock into each other, never to be separated again. In the case of his fairisle, the pattern has become muddy/fuzzy and the fabric loses some elasticity and a lot of fineness of hand. If you want to shrink a wool sweater, try this:

1) Soak the sweater in your tub or sink until it's thoroughly wet. You can use a wool wash, like Eucalan, if you like. DO NOT agitate the sweater.
2) Remove the sweater and let it drip as much water as possible. DO NOT wring it out.
3) Lay it between two towels and roll it tightly, to remove as much moisture as possible.
4) Lay it on a flat, dry, towel-covered surface and shape/pin the sweater down to your desired shape. Switch out the towel with a dry one and reshape as needed. It could take a few days to dry completely.

You can do this repeatedly to try and get more shrinkage. You can also enlarge a sweater using the same technique. I know this because my son wears cloth diapers with wool covers and they get washed and lanolized regularly, using the method outlined above to keep the knit in tact and minimize felting.

However, in doing this to countless thrifted sweaters in the past, I find that it's a waste of time with sweaters that have side seams and shoulders that already fit well. It's also not permanent. The sweater will stretch out again in time. It's much faster and safer to simply take in the side seams to your desired width, like you would with a shirt.


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## seathingie (Jan 7, 2011)

There are two things that cause felting: 1. agitation 2. heat 

You can safely clean your wool sweaters in the washer...here is how I do it. Fill the washer with tepid water and a small amount of gentle soap, add the sweater (s) and let them soak..do NOT agitate them! Advance the washer past the agitation cycle so that the water drains out. Fill the washer again with tepid water, let soak, advance again to the drain cycle and then I let the machine spin the water out. This is much better for your sweaters than dry cleaning, especially if they are the Fisherman's type that contain lanolin. I do this with my cashmere sweaters also although I put them in those mesh laundry bags to give them a bit of extra protection. If you have a front loading machine then you are out of luck. 

I used to have a fiber arts studio and have processed wool as soon as it came off the sheep all the way to a finished knit product so I have some experience working with wool.

As far as shrinking a sweater, you can tighten it up with heat but what you are doing is starting the process which changes the separate strands of wool into a mass (making felt by locking the wool fibers together..they have little barbules on them).


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

seathingie said:


> ... If you have a front loading machine then you are out of luck...


My wife complains about this all the time. Your method is perfect for those who have top loaders.


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## firedancer (Jan 11, 2011)

^ Hardline, I'm glad I've been following your method more or less for most of my sweaters. 
I usually use my tub and have no problems with gentle agitation using my hands. 

So the new fancy front loaders can't handle wool? Mine has a gentle wool setting that I was going to try. Please say it isn't so....


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## Himself (Mar 2, 2011)

firedancer said:


> ^ Hardline, I'm glad I've been following your method more or less for most of my sweaters. I usually use my tub and have no problems with gentle agitation using my hands. So the new fancy front loaders can't handle wool? Mine has a gentle wool setting that I was going to try. Please say it isn't so....


Modern front loaders are definitely gentler, but gentle enough for wool, and/or gentler than a top loader with no agitation, I don't know...


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## Thom Browne's Schooldays (Jul 29, 2007)

I feel like I accidentally felt all my sweaters when washing them.

My general experience has been that sweaters shrink far more in length than in width. I tried a number of years ago to shrink a sweater than was too big in the chest. 
I just used hot water for the handwash and laid it between two hot towels to dry.
I lost a bit in the sleeves and the length, but not much in the chest.


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## Belfaborac (Aug 20, 2011)

firedancer said:


> So the new fancy front loaders can't handle wool? Mine has a gentle wool setting that I was going to try. Please say it isn't so....


I use the wool program for all my sweaters, ragg socks, scarves, beanies, you name it. Wool, cashmere, alpaca, camel - it all goes in the machine. I know it's like standing up to curse loudly in church, mid-service, but basically if it can't be machine washed, I don't want it anyway. So far though (oh, some 12 or so years I guess), everything has survived just fine.

Obviously I stop short of tumble drying it; that'd just be silly.


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## fiddler (Apr 19, 2010)

hardline_42 said:


> People, put down the wool and back away from your washers and dryers!! You DO NOT want to run your wool garments through the wash unless they're specifically designed for it. What you see happening in the photos that ocbd posted is called "felting." The wool fibers that have been twisted into yarns, when they're soaked and then agitated, intertwine and lock into each other, never to be separated again. In the case of his fairisle, the pattern has become muddy/fuzzy and the fabric loses some elasticity and a lot of fineness of hand.


 This is an old myth. It migh be true for older washing machines, but a good modern machine is actually kinder to wool than a hand wash is. As long as they accelerate fast enough so the sweater isn't tossed around, but sticks to the wall of the drum, it gets less felted than with hand washing. I know a Norwegian research institute (SIFO) did a publication on this, I'll see if I can find it in English.

Remember that wool doesn't carry odor like cotton garments, so most of the time a good airing will do the trick.

As for shrinking, it's probably not possible without felting.

Edit: SIFO - "Can wool be boiled and spin dried?": https://www.sifo.no/page/Publikasjoner//10081/77730.html


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## godan (Feb 10, 2010)

*Excellent thread*

I think this thread illustrates Ask Andy at its best. The clear, informed posts are focused on the topic under discussion and represent a variety of interesting opinions and experiences. While specifics differ, I am comforted to know that others besides myself shrink sweaters by washing. The risks of fading and felting seem serious, and I will certainly be more attentive to them in the future. Thanks to everyone who has posted.


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## DoghouseReilly (Jul 25, 2010)

When I saw the title of this thread, I cringed. Like others have said, I don't believe it is possible to shrink a sweater without felting.

Why not consider getting them taken in, like you would do with a shirt? My seamstress does it.


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

fiddler said:


> This is an old myth. It migh be true for older washing machines, but a good modern machine is actually kinder to wool than a hand wash is. As long as they accelerate fast enough so the sweater isn't tossed around, but sticks to the wall of the drum, it gets less felted than with hand washing. I know a Norwegian research institute (SIFO) did a publication on this, I'll see if I can find it in English.
> 
> Remember that wool doesn't carry odor like cotton garments, so most of the time a good airing will do the trick.
> 
> ...


I did mention that they shouldn't be run through your washing machine "unless it's specifically designed for it." I've got a snazzy front-loading high efficiency washing machine and I wouldn't trust my woolens in it. If I had a top loader, it would definitely be my preference to do it in the washer and not the sink. Thanks for posting the link to the article. It makes some interesting points that agree with both methods: no mechanical agitation that would cause the fibers to rub against each other, and a means of drying that allows the garment to essentially remain flat.


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

DoghouseReilly said:


> Why not consider getting them taken in, like you would do with a shirt? My seamstress does it.


This is, by far, the best method. If the shoulders fit, it's as simple as running two seams to take the body in to the desired size. Sleeves can always be turned back.


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## sbdivemaster (Nov 13, 2011)

Very interesting thread with some great information. I have a couple of things to add. As seathingie pointed out, the sheath of the wool fibers have barbs on them. So, no matter which method is used, as wool is agitated, the wool fibers will move in one direction only, causing the item to slowly tighten up over time with repeated washings (be it hand or machine, hot or cold). If you get it down to the "perfect" size on the first shot, it will eventually become too small. I have a hand knit Aran that was a gift in high school; over the years (~30), even after careful handling and washing, it has become too small (watch for it on The Exchange). You might take this into consideration as you determine what size you want it to be.

When reducing the width, I think Doghouse and Hardline have the right idea in just getting it altered to take in the body. Now, as to the length (body and/or sleeves), there is another method to consider: grafting. An experienced knitter, or reweaver with experience in reknitting, can remove several rows of stitching and reknit the two separate pieces back together with threads that have been removed. Since this takes a considerable amount of time and skill, it will likely be a costly procedure. So, it may not be an economical decision for a thrifted sweater, but for a beloved, one of a kind, or expensive sweater this might be worth the coin you'll lay out.


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## oxford cloth button down (Jan 1, 2012)

I feel like I should apologize to Hardline before posting this. As I went to the washing machine method again! I washed it on hot and air dried I think that this one turned out great...even with the bit of felting .

Measurements before:

Pit-to-pit - 24

Length from BOC - 28.5

Measurements after:

pit-to-pit - 22

Lenght from BOC - 25









Before pic









After pic









Before color










After color


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## Hardiw1 (May 17, 2011)

I just picked up a bean shetland off eBay for $10. It's a bit bigger than the LE shetlands that fits me perfectly so I will be experimenting with this. At 10$, if I botch the whole deal it's not much of a loss.


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## oxford cloth button down (Jan 1, 2012)

Hardiw1 said:


> I just picked up a bean shetland off eBay for $10. It's a bit bigger than the LE shetlands that fits me perfectly so I will be experimenting with this. At 10$, if I botch the whole deal it's not much of a loss.


That's the spirit and exactly why I have went this method! I have a nice sweater that is too big and I would never go this route with it.


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

oxford cloth button down said:


> I feel like I should apologize to Hardline before posting this. As I went to the washing machine method again! I washed it on hot and air dried I think that this one turned out great...even with the bit of felting .
> 
> Measurements before:
> 
> ...


LOL! The proof is in the pudding. But seriously, why does the before pic look like a photochop?


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## DoghouseReilly (Jul 25, 2010)

Wow, that's a dramatic result. How bad is the felting, would you say? It doesn't look too bad.


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## oxford cloth button down (Jan 1, 2012)

Hard line - haha, I have no idea. It does look weird though. I took it on my porch instead of out front, maybe the flash?

Doghousereilly - The felting was minimal on the Shetland opposed to the fair isle that I posted. The Shetland is almost a brushed Shetland now!


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

oxford cloth button down said:


> Hard line - haha, I have no idea. It does look weird though. I took it on my porch instead of out front, maybe the flash?
> 
> Doghousereilly - The felting was minimal on the Shetland opposed to the fair isle that I posted. The Shetland is almost a brushed Shetland now!


Count me as another big fan of those old LE made in England Shetlands. I love the fit and weight on those, and the wool is always so beautifully variegated.


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## catside (Oct 7, 2010)

Following reading this thread I have washed three scarves, a Johnstons of Elgin cashmere, a Marks and Spencer pure new wool, and a JCrew cashmere/wool. Used Target generic Woolite, wool settings of a Bosch front loader with low iron setting, dried flat afterwards but they came out quite dry anyway. No change in size, no additional piling to what already were there. Crew is machine knit and no felting there. Verdict: It's OK to wash scarves at the wool setting with Woolite.


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## halbydurzell (Aug 19, 2012)

I'm trying this tonight with the cheap Pendleton shetland I bought a few weeks back. It's way too big for me so let's see what a hot water wash with dye free All (NO ALL!) does to it.


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## halbydurzell (Aug 19, 2012)

The hot water wash and air dry did nothing except, as in OCBD's above example, the weaving is now closer together (not a lot of felting) and the sweater is much softer. My next step is to locate a dryer I can stop every five minutes. Science!


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## inq89 (Dec 3, 2008)

I like this inaugural academic journal of TradLab 

Of relevance I had also shrunk a shetland, a Shaggy no less. I bought a size L from a poster on a trading forum, when I am usually a size M. That particular model year had a generous fit, feeling almost like an XL, so I dipped it in cold water and then dried it on medium heat. Didn't care to take before and after measurements but it turned out well, save some disproportions in the abdomen.


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## leisureclass (Jan 31, 2011)

I tried the method on a old lambswool cardigan that I thrifted awhile back, it already had sort of a brushed quality to it so I wasn't worried about texture changes. However, I don't think I soaked it enough, or used hot enough water because once it dried I saw next to no change in size. I'm on round 2 as we speak, this time with more really hot water.


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## Hardiw1 (May 17, 2011)

Your comic relief for the day fellas. This Bean shetland was a bit big on me when acquired. I washed in front loader on hot with the spin set to low and laid flat to dry. The pic speaks for itself. It basically turned it into a shaggy dog and went from a Large to a Small. This is ridiculous.


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## catside (Oct 7, 2010)

LOL you overdid it. That happened to me once through our cleaning lady. I will thrift you one for your troubles. I think the trick is Woolite with wool setting. And then the shrinking occur in the dryer and need to stop frequently to check. Can you try to wet it again and reshape resize by pulling as the next experiment?


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## Hardiw1 (May 17, 2011)

Hell, it can't get any worse. I'll try wetting it again and seeing if I can wrestle it any bigger. Warm water or cold? Or would it matter?


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## catside (Oct 7, 2010)

My mom used to do it with lukewarm. I remember her shaping wool sweaters always.


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## oxford cloth button down (Jan 1, 2012)

Hardiw1 said:


> Your comic relief for the day fellas. This Bean shetland was a bit big on me when acquired. I washed in front loader on hot with the spin set to low and laid flat to dry. The pic speaks for itself. It basically turned it into a shaggy dog and went from a Large to a Small. This is ridiculous.


Hardiw - I feel badly, but I commend you on experimenting. By the way, what size is that sweater now?

"One can not impede scientific progress!"


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## leisureclass (Jan 31, 2011)

^ Perhaps there's a woman or a small child in need of a new sweater?


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## Hardiw1 (May 17, 2011)

oxford cloth button down said:


> Hardiw - I feel badly, but I commend you on experimenting. By the way, what size is that sweater now?
> 
> "One can not impede scientific progress!"


I had $10 in the sweater, so no harm no foul. I would call it in between a small and a medium. I would say the most shrinkage was in the length top to bottom, it seems as though it shortened up quite a bit more than anything else.


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## leisureclass (Jan 31, 2011)

So, on my third try I threw my cardigan into my washer, a toploader, on medium heat. It came out even softer and fuzzier, and not very wet. So to get the last of the water out I clipped it into a hanger and dried upside down. Results were perfect. Shrunk just the right amount everywhere, and now has this real shaggy dog quality to it, even though it's lambswool not shetland.


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## Hardiw1 (May 17, 2011)

It seems I went wrong on the hot water setting. Err to the lukewarm side, you can always give it another round if it's still too big. Hindsight is 20/20, but I wasn't expecting it to shrink _that_ much.


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## fiddler (Apr 19, 2010)

Before trying to standardize a procedure, remember that the amount of shrinkage will depend a lot on the yarn quality. You have to consider how tight it's been spun, what ply it is, and so on. 

Since it's not that hard to find a decent sweater nowadays, I don't really know how much time you would want to spend on this anyhow.


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## catside (Oct 7, 2010)

Bah! Where is the fun in that? It's not about a sweater you know :smile:


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