# Double-breasted various button placements and buttoning



## DaveS (Dec 11, 2011)

I hope this is the right forum for these questions, if not, please direct me elsewhere.

As I learn, it seems that there are several different styles of button placement and buttoning on double-breasted suit coats and blazers.

Some of the differences are:
A) six buttons with the bottom two or middle one only buttoned
B) four button with only the bottom one designed to be buttoned
C) six button with only the bottom one designed to be buttoned

Then, there seems to be a difference in button placement from top to bottom. Sometimes the buttons, whether six or four, are aligned in a "V" shape, and other times the buttons (usually six button) are aligned in a "Y" shape.

I've read conflicting things as to which is most "proper." Can anyone shed some additional light on this topic?

Thank you to any and all for your time and help!

Dave


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

A) in the Y configuration is the classic style. It's typically the most flattering because it puts the main, middle row of buttons at the waist, where all jackets' button point should be.

B) and C), with the V-shaped arrangement, were popularized in the '80s, though they existed before. They usually put the button point down below the waist, near the hips, which is an unflattering look on most men. It tends to accentuate any belly you may have.

One exception is the Kent model, named after the Duke of Windsor's younger brother. It has four buttons and a long lapel roll, but a higher button point at the waist, where it should be.

Finally, A), if it's cut right and has enough lapel roll, can be buttoned at the lower button to change things up, but the overall fit and shape will still be pleasing.

So, when in doubt, go for a 6-button DB with the Y configuration.

Here's one of my suits like that, buttoned both at the middle and at the bottom button.

 

Here's a poor photo of a suit that was originally 4x1 with a square button configuration, but I had an upper buttonhole added so I could use it as a 4x2 and button it at the waist.


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## DaveS (Dec 11, 2011)

Great reply, Orgetorix - thank you! Superb photos!

Did adding the extra button hole on the 4x1 change the way the lapel folded?


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

It did slightly, yes. For it to work, the lapel has to be straight from the existing buttonhole to the place where the new one will go. If there's any belly (curvature) to the lapel edge, it won't work.


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## zzdocxx (Sep 26, 2011)

Org in the second pic with the bottom buttons done, I think it makes you look much slimmer.

:thumbs-up:


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## Youthful Repp-robate (Sep 26, 2011)

zzdocxx said:


> Org in the second pic with the bottom buttons done, I think it makes you look much slimmer.
> 
> :thumbs-up:


I think that's a difference in the angles of the photos, moreso than any slimming quality of the buttoning.

Here's a post I thought of when I saw this question:

https://askandyaboutclothes.com/com...nsider-the-perfect-suit&p=1266577#post1266577

Although I find the middle one in that diagram attractive, it has less precedent than the 6x2 Y-configuration cut. As for the one on the far right, many people here would call it dated, and I would not purchase a new suit in that cut. I own one, from thrifting, and I think it's alright. It flatters my body type, but it would not work well on many people.


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

zzdocxx said:


> Org in the second pic with the bottom buttons done, I think it makes you look much slimmer.
> 
> :thumbs-up:


It's entirely possible that's because I _was_ slimmer when that pic was taken.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Here's a thread I started on blazers a few year back which has a bunch of photos showing various button arrangements for double breasted blazers - there's some whacky combos out there!


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## Anthony Charton (May 7, 2012)

I'm taking the liberty of unearthing this topic after reading Orgetorix's very interesting post. A friend of mine, who is a little on the short side, quite likes double-breasted suits and I mentioned the fact that longer lapel rolls do make a man look slightly taller. I really am not the biggest devotee of 6x1 suits and my favourite remains the 6x2, but I did suggest a 4x1. I exposed the problem of the low button stance and what it does to a waist, and a friend of ours who happened to be present suggested the following possibility: a 5th button and second buttonhole, both concealed at waist level; the former on a hidden part of the right side of the jacket, the latter under the left lapel. My friend claims he's seen specimens of the kind before (probably professionally altered after purchase.) We might try it if my short acquaintance finds a 4x1 he likes; what is everyone's take on that ?


(Edit- I know this sounds very far-fetched and all, but I found the idea interesting. Besides, if adequately placed on any type of DB jacket, this might help reduce the typical issues of slight pulling on lighter cloths.)


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