# Sterlingwear Pea Coat sizing



## inq89 (Dec 3, 2008)

I have heard that the Sterlingwear Pea Coats are quite fitted. If I am a 42 chest, should I size up to a 44 for a "regular" fit?


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

They have several different models. I would talk to customer service, tell them what you intend to wear under you peacoat; how you feel about fit in general, and then make a decision.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

I have been puzzling over their size chart for a few weeks now and have contacted them to clear up some questions. Unfortunately, I’m still no wiser, although I was informed that their sizing is “military” which is useless to civilians since it’s not equivalent in any way with civilian sizing. Here’s the email quote: “The chest is the body size of the jacket. So if it is a 44 inch chest, that is how the body is measured around. Sleeve lengths are equal for all the sizes because we size to military sizing with our pea coats. Short, Regular, and Long sleeves are available to try to fit all different sizes. Our sizing does compare to suit sizes, however with the Authentic the reverse fleece lining does add some body to the coat, so if you are looking to wear something thick underneath we suggest going up a size. In the Navigator, it stays pretty true to actual suit size because the lining is full satin.”

I am frustrated because they sell exactly what I want in a pea coat (the Navigator model) but because they can’t be bothered to ditch the stupid “military sizing” chart and just give us a real-world sizing chart I am hoping someone around here will have direct experience with their jackets and can give some sort of definitive real-world advice on sizing.


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

I'm a duffle coat man myself, so I can't measure a peacoat I don't have. That having been said, I think your post demonstrates the deficiencies of email when compared to the telephone. Instead of trying to make sense of their email, why not call them up and ask for specific measurements, eg. shoulder seem to shoulder seem etc.?


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## joenobody0 (Jun 30, 2009)

I just bought an authentic peacoat from Sterlingwear. I wear a 38S in the BB Fitzgerald cut. I bought a 38S and a 36S from Sterlingwear. The 36S was too small, and the 38S fits perfectly over a thick sweater. 

The 36S is for sale if anyone wants it.

On edit, the shoulders are very padded on my jacket. I don't mind it, but some might.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

arkirshner said:


> I think your post demonstrates the deficiencies of email when compared to the telephone. Instead of trying to make sense of their email, why not call them up and ask for specific measurements, eg. shoulder seem to shoulder seem etc.?


That will be my next step, of course, but it would be nice if their size chart made sense or if they simply stated an equivalency for a men's suit size. When I have the time I shall badger them on the phone!


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## Annapolitan (Jun 24, 2011)

I've tried on both the Sterlingwear and Schott models. Schott is the other company marketing an "authentic" pea coat. I'm a 46 reg and am easily a 48 in both models assuming a medium weight (think O'Connell's Shetland) underneath and could maybe even go with a 50 (my need to try a 50 on is what is keeping me from pulling the trigger). They're both quite "fitted" (it's what they call "military" cut) in your regular size (for me the 46s were way too snug in chest and shoulders even with just a t-shirt, though I generally prefer a looser, more relaxed fit in just about everything). I liked the Schott version better - it is 32 oz v 24 oz wool for Sterlingwear and seemed heavier and better constructed than the Sterlingwear version. Be carefull when ordering site unseen - what is called navy color is often actually black, though if you search the websites of each company they both appear to make a true Navy - not sure about Sterlingwear but I know Schott has that color. The best price I've found for the Schott is at Justice Clothing.

https://www.justiceclothing.com/thereis/justice/sb20296.html


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## inq89 (Dec 3, 2008)

Pulled the trigger on a 44R yesterday from Vermont's Barre Army Navy online store. The Authentic is on clearance for $108 plus 10% off if you take a survey (still active as of this date). They didn't have a 42 in stock so I'm hoping it'll fit to my liking, especially for that price. Will update when I get it.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

comparison photos of all the Sterlingwear models, courtesy of our obsessive compulsive detail oriented Japanese friends...

https://www.rakuten.ne.jp/gold/jalana/sterlingwear/raku.html
(select a coat and click on it, then scroll down for multiple detail photos)


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

I placed an order for the Navigator model a few minutes ago. I asked about sizing and the lady on the phone said that for the Navigator model they recommend getting the same size as your suit size, since that model has only a satin lining, but for the Authentic model, which has a "reversed fleece lining", they recommend going up one size since the lining makes the coat thicker overall. I hope they've got it right, but I imagine they know their stuff. I will post comments once it arrives.


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## joenobody0 (Jun 30, 2009)

Doctor Damage said:


> I placed an order for the Navigator model a few minutes ago. I asked about sizing and the lady on the phone said that for the Navigator model they recommend getting the same size as your suit size, since that model has only a satin lining, _*but for the Authentic model, which has a "reversed fleece lining", they recommend going up one size since the lining makes the coat thicker overall*_. I hope they've got it right, but I imagine they know their stuff. I will post comments once it arrives.


I completely disagree with that. I wear a 40S, or maybe a 38S on a good day, BB Fitzgerald fit suit. When I bought my Authentic model, I purchased a 36S and a 38S. The 36S was too small to layer. The 38S was just a tad too large but fits fine when layered with a heavy sweater. I could have worn a heavy sweater and a suit under the 40S for sure!


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## unmodern (Aug 10, 2009)

I wear a 36R in BB Fitzgerald, and a 36R in the Navigator. I tried on an Authentic in 36R and it also fit. From all that I can divine from SF's megathread, there isn't really any difference in sizing between the models, regardless of what Sterlingwear claims. I would go with normal suit size unless you have a huge belly or else covet Styleforum-esque slim fits. Despite their confusing sizing chart Sterlingwear is true to size, assuming you are layering over a thick sweater and/or a sportscoat. I can comfortably fit my 36R over an OCBD, my thickest sweater, and a tweed jacket, but it's also fine over just an OCBD and a thinner sweater.

There seem to be different batches that fit slightly differently, as noted on ---one production line has a flag and a 'made in USA' tag under the locker loop, and fits slightly slimmer, with a more matte finish to the fabric and a stiff collar, while another (the one I have) has the size under the locker loop and fits a bit looser, with a slightly shinier fabric and a floppier collar. All in all, not a huge difference. Sterlingwear makes great p-coats. Buy one ASAP!


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## unmodern (Aug 10, 2009)

Other sizing notes: the shoulders are definitely pretty built up. With a ~6" inch drop I find the waist on the large size, but haven't gotten it tailored since p-coats are supposed to be pretty boxy and I think over-tailoring the waist might look weird. I suppose one gets used to what one has, but when I see J. Crew's p-coat (for instance) the soft-ish shoulders and nipped waist look off. Sterlingwear's coat looks quite similar to the fit pics of actual Navy issue coats I've seen here on members and elsewhere on the internets, and in that sense I'd have to say it's the most authentic version available to civilians, short of thrifting an issue coat.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

The sizing is a bit confusing and their comments over email did nothing to clarify it. Plus, who measures sleeve length from the armpit? I hate that Woolovers does this too, it doesn't mean anything. They should just have a size chart with all the actual dimensions of the coats. Until you told me to get your normal size (at least I think it was you in another thread) I thought I'd need a 42L even though I wear a 40L normally.


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## Thom Browne's Schooldays (Jul 29, 2007)

Jovan said:


> The sizing is a bit confusing and their comments over email did nothing to clarify it. Plus, _who measures sleeve length from the armpit? _I hate that Woolovers does this too, it doesn't mean anything. They should just have a size chart with all the actual dimensions of the coats. Until you told me to get your normal size (at least I think it was you in another thread) I thought I'd need a 42L even though I wear a 40L normally.


It seems to be the standard when measuring anything with raglan sleeves, it its annoying though.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

I suggest measuring those from the centre back like a shirt sleeve. The more annoying thing is that pea coats and most of the Woolovers sweaters don't even have raglan sleeves...


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## unmodern (Aug 10, 2009)

Actually measuring from the armpit is standard in the rest of the world. If you think about it, it's no more arbitrary, and no less accurate once you get the hang of it, than from the shoulder. But you are correct that center-back length is more accurate than either.


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

^ Beg to differ. Armhole depth and shape often vary widely, and this can affect the undersleeve measurement drastically. Granted, the outside sleeve measurement isn't always perfect, but when combined with a shoulder measurement it usually gives a much more precise fit.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Orgetorix articulated exactly what I was getting at. Thank you.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

unmodern said:


> I wear a 36R in BB Fitzgerald, and a 36R in the Navigator. I tried on an Authentic in 36R and it also fit. From all that I can divine from SF's "mega-peacoat-thread", there isn't really any difference in sizing between the models, regardless of what Sterlingwear claims. I would go with normal suit size unless you have a huge belly or else covet Styleforum-esque slim fits. Despite their confusing sizing chart Sterlingwear is true to size, assuming you are layering over a thick sweater and/or a sportscoat. I can comfortably fit my 36R over an OCBD, my thickest sweater, and a tweed jacket, but it's also fine over just an OCBD and a thinner sweater.


Good to know inre the sizing.

I too started going through that SF thread, but I quickly gave up when I realized (1) none of them are older than 21, (2) none of them weigh more than 135 lbs, and (3) none of them want to pay more than $50.


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## inq89 (Dec 3, 2008)

Received my 44R and I will be returning it. Too boxy and I should've went with my true chest size, perhaps evens size down. Unfortunately Barre Army/Navy has sold out on all sizes so I won't be able to take advantage of that awesome sale I purchased the 44R for....:mad2:


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Received the 100% wool Navigator today and I can say without hesitation that the value proposition of this thing is EXCELLENT. Great quality, great cloth, great shape and fit. I think anyone disappointed with one of these jackets has some sort of unrealistic expectations. These are not Ralph Lauren Purple Label luxury garments, but solid, tough mid-level coats and I think worth every penny of the $265 price (for the 100% wool Navigator).

I ordered the 42L which is my suit size and the coat fits like a 42L overcoat. There's more than enough room for a thick sweater underneath. I don't think I could have ordered a 40L as I think it would have been a bit too short and the shoulders too narrow, unless the differences in measures are tiny. I can see how anorexic men or SF guys who like the ultra skinny fit would find these too generous, but that's their problem, not a problem with Sterlingwear's coats. For the rest of us, especially us middle-age men who haven't filled out too much, but aren't skinny either, these are just right.

Here's the approximate outside measurements for a 42L Navigator coat. I consider these measurements to be pretty "standard" measurements for a 42L outer garment, but someone like AlanC can perhaps whip out one of his charts and confirm.

centre back neck to shoulder = 10.5"
centre back neck to end of sleeve = 37"
centre back neck seam to bottom of coat = 35"
widest part of chest (just under armpits) = 24"
narrowest part of torso = 23"


Unfortunately, mine needs to go back since one of the shoulder pads has a slight fold or ripple or something, so it rubs on my shoulder blade. But I hasten to add that's a manufacturing mistake, not a design problem, and if I was able to buy one in a store I would have instantly felt the problem and tried on another. That's the risk you take ordering long distance.

- DD


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## unmodern (Aug 10, 2009)

Orgetorix said:


> ^ Beg to differ. Armhole depth and shape often vary widely, and this can affect the undersleeve measurement drastically. Granted, the outside sleeve measurement isn't always perfect, but when combined with a shoulder measurement it usually gives a much more precise fit.


Not to derail, but it's all relative. You are just used to what you are used to. Shoulders come in lots of shapes and sizes, too. Armpit-measuring may be counterintuitive to a shoulder-measurer, but in my experience neither method is clearly superior. Once you've found your correct armpit-to-cuff measurement, you can purchase online with about as much confidence as you can ever purchase online.


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

Ok, well, that's where we differ. My experience is just the opposite. I have jackets where the cuff hits me at the same spot but the underarm measurement differs by as much as an inch. On a sleeve, that's huge. Shoulder-to-cuff measurements vary too, but not nearly that much.


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## kjartanovich (Nov 28, 2011)

Hi guys.

I have long been interested in getting a proper pea coat, especially for the winter months and now I am almost ready to make an order.
I have settled on a Sterlingwear Authentic, as I think the fleece lining should provide enough warmth for the winters in the UK. Need something that can keep me warm in weather between 10 and 50 degrees fahrenheit.

This is the mail I sent to Sterlingwear the other day:
I have been reading a lot about sizing as there seems to be a lot of confusion and contradiction about sizing correctly.
I hope you can help me out in this regard.

I am 5' 9'' (174 cm) and 152 pounds, athletic build
39'' chest, I use 15.5/39 tailored/slim fit shirt.
Suit (tailored fit) 38S (UK/US size) Sometimes 38R.
Waist 31''. 
Sleeve length: 17'' from armpit to thumb knuckle. 

I have recently tried a thin (wool shell), but lightly padded pea coat, size S (UK size. US probably XS) measuring 22'' (retailer states 21'') armpit to armpit.
It is a bit too tight around my chest with a suit or sweater underneath. Also tried a pea coat from H&M size 38R and 40R. Both were comfortable, the 38R felt a bit better than the one previously mentioned.Both were a bit too long in the sleeves, so I believe I should go for a S/Short in whichever Authentic I choose,
I believe the choice is between an 38S and an 40S, correct me if I am wrong.
Also, what is the sleeve width on these coats?

They recommended I get the 40S.

Should I follow the recommendation and get this or go with the 38S.?
Moreover, would it be smarter to get it in R and shorten the sleeves accordingly.?


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## joenobody0 (Jun 30, 2009)

I'm 5' 8'' and weight 155 pounds. I went with a 38S. I would have liked a 37S, but the 36S was too small. Unless you want to wear a suit coat under your pea coat, I'd stay away from the 40. If your arms are actually 39 inches long (which seems rather long for your height) the sleeves are going to be too short on a 38S. 

The length on my 38S should be sufficient for someone of your height.


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## kjartanovich (Nov 28, 2011)

Thanks for the reply.
Although I am not sure if I quite understand you..!
So 38 is is more than big enough with a 39''-39.5'' chest?
Even though their size chart and the guy at customer service said 40S would be right.
and S (Short) will be perfect with an armpit to thumb knuckle length of 17''?

I want to be able to wear a sweatshirt, sweater or a suit jacket/blazer underneath.
Sorry I am just a bit nervous about getting this wrong. No possibility of returns.!


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## unmodern (Aug 10, 2009)

Are you sure about your measurements? I am the same height and weight as you, but have a 36" chest and a 30.5" waist. I am also in good shape. It's kind of hard to imagine weighing the same with a 3" larger chest.

Assuming you are a true 39, I would say go for 40R. I have a Sterlingwear 36R and the sleeve length is perfect on my 5'9" frame. A 40R will be a bit longer in the sleeve, but I imagine a 40S will be too short in the body, unless you like your peacoat short-ish. A 38R will be eminently wearable, but you won't be able to layer as much.


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## joenobody0 (Jun 30, 2009)

kjartanovich said:


> Thanks for the reply.
> Although I am not sure if I quite understand you..!
> So 38 is is more than big enough with a 39''-39.5'' chest?
> Even though their size chart and the guy at customer service said 40S would be right.
> ...


If you want to wear a suit coat under it, you're going to need to size up. I wouldn't be able to (and wouldn't want to) wear a coat under my 38S. It's just a fact that you're going to have to have either a sloppy fit without a jacket underneath, or forget about wearing it with a jacket. I have dress overcoats for when I'm wearing a suit. My pea coat is strictly for casual wear.

As far as sizing goes, I wear a 38 in most brands or a 40 in the slimmer cuts. I wear a 15.5x33 shirt. I intend to shorten the sleeves on my pea coat by about an inch and a quarter when I have the time.


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## ArtVandalay (Apr 29, 2010)

A peacoat isn't meant to be worn over a suit. From my understanding it's supposed to fit pretty snuggly.


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## joenobody0 (Jun 30, 2009)

ArtVandalay said:


> A peacoat isn't meant to be worn over a suit.


This one in particular. The shoulders are too built up already. It would look rediculous over another jacket. It's also 24oz wool which is heavy.


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## dcjacobson (Jun 25, 2007)

I bought the same size Sterlingwear coat as my jacket size--44 extra long. It fits perfectly, but you can't wear anything under it. You don't need to; this is one thick, heavy coat.

Don


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## kjartanovich (Nov 28, 2011)

Hi
Thanks for all the replies.

Forget about the suit thing. I will mostly be weaing a t-shirt, shirt and sometimes a sweatshirt or cardigan underneath.
I have remeasured myself a couple of times now.
I get it to 39''. I have quite thin legs so most of my weight/bulk is around the upper back, upper arms and chest.

*joenobody*: You seem to wear exactly the same size clothes as me. slim fit shirt 15.5, suit 38 and 40 if extremely slim.
How does it fit around the armpits and chest when buttoned up? One of your earlier posts suggests there is more than enough space since you state you could have fit a 37...


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## joenobody0 (Jun 30, 2009)

kjartanovich said:


> *joenobody*: You seem to wear exactly the same size clothes as me. slim fit shirt 15.5, suit 38 and 40 if extremely slim.
> How does it fit around the armpits and chest when buttoned up? One of your earlier posts suggests there is more than enough space since you state you could have fit a 37...


I can wear what I consider to be a thick sweater under my pea coat with no trouble. I find the coat fits relatively slim through the chest and armpits - slimmer here than any other spot. However, I think I have a fairly large lats for my size. If I could have had a 37, I probably would have been limited to thinner sweaters but the fit would have been better for me.

I think a 38 would fit you well, and a 40 would be very relaxed. If you're looking for anything near a "modern fit", then you should stick to the 38. A 38R was too long on me, both in the arms and in the body. The 38S is a reasonable length for me in the body.

There's a huge thread about pea coat sizing on the other clothes forum. It's filled with guy who are younger and thinner than I am. They suggested I order a 36S (which I did). The 36S looked great on me but was too tight in the chest.


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## kjartanovich (Nov 28, 2011)

Okay. Thanks Joe.
I will have to think about this for a little while longer.
I am feeling more torn between the two than closer to a decision. haha... exact opposite of what I was hoping for.
I do find it interesting that you did not go for a 38S and a 40S to try on, since Sterlingwear's size chart and even customer service is pointing me towards a 40S. I guess that you went based on the forums. I am impressed that you were even able to put the 36S on..!
By the way. Did you go for the Trad Black or Navy?


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## joenobody0 (Jun 30, 2009)

kjartanovich said:


> Okay. Thanks Joe.
> I will have to think about this for a little while longer.
> I am feeling more torn between the two than closer to a decision. haha... exact opposite of what I was hoping for.
> I do find it interesting that you did not go for a 38S and a 40S to try on, since Sterlingwear's size chart and even customer service is pointing me towards a 40S. I guess that you went based on the forums. I am impressed that you were even able to put the 36S on..!
> By the way. Did you go for the Trad Black or Navy?


I got the Navy. I actually did try on a 40 locally. It was so much too large I didn't even consider it. I looked like a kid wearing my dad's jacket (which I can't stand since I'm already fairly short/slight). Every dimension of measurement was too large for me.


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## kjartanovich (Nov 28, 2011)

Could I ask you to do me a favour and take a few measurements on your coat?
Just to compare with the size chart and my current cheap pea...

When it is laying flat: shoulder to shoulder; armpit to armpit; and hem/hip width.


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## kjartanovich (Nov 28, 2011)

Ahh I see what you mean by the 15.5/39... 15.5 inch neck/ 39 inch sleeve... I Meant 15.5 inch neck / 39 cm neck, which fits with 39'' chest... However, your assessment was correct.
I am going to go with the 38S.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

joenobody0 said:


> There's a huge thread about pea coat sizing on the other clothes forum. It's filled with guy who are younger and thinner than I am. They suggested I order a 36S (which I did). The 36S looked great on me but was too tight in the chest.


Most of the guys on SF want the skinny look, or rather the skintight look. If you're older than 19 or weight more than 120 lbs then you have to be very careful when reading that forum. Old photos show that the pea jackets were not worn tight, although in the past people were skinnier. Sterlingwear sent me a list of retailers in NYC which stock their coats, so the next time I'm there (hopefully next spring) I will check them out and buy another coat.


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## ArtVandalay (Apr 29, 2010)

So here's a question on peacoat sizing...

I found a Sterlingwear coat that I think might work for me on eBay. The chest is about what I'm looking for, but I'm not sure if the shoulders will be too big. The seller states the shoulders as 20" measured across the back. The most I will wear in a sportcoat is 18.75. Do you fellas think this will be an issue? How do the shoulder measurements on your peacoats compare with your sportcoats?


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

ArtVandalay said:


> So here's a question on peacoat sizing...
> 
> I found a Sterlingwear coat that I think might work for me on eBay. The chest is about what I'm looking for, but I'm not sure if the shoulders will be too big. The seller states the shoulders as 20" measured across the back. The most I will wear in a sportcoat is 18.75. Do you fellas think this will be an issue? How do the shoulder measurements on your peacoats compare with your sportcoats?


If you are a 42L in suits, then 20" might be a touch narrow, and it sounds like that peacoat is a size 40. That's just my instinctive response based on years of thrifting and being a size 42L myself.


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## inq89 (Dec 3, 2008)

I returned the 44R from my OP and found a great deal on a 40R, two sizes down from my regular chest size 42R. It fits well and slightly slim. I won't button the top anyway so a tight chest wouldn't matter. Also the shoulders are a bit boxy but its not bad.

(note: thick Norwegian underneath)


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

inq89 said:


> I returned the 44R from my OP and found a great deal on a 40R, two sizes down from my regular chest size 42R. It fits well and slightly slim. I won't button the top anyway so a tight chest wouldn't matter. Also the shoulders are a bit boxy but its not bad.
> 
> (note: thick Norwegian underneath)


Make sure you do up the bottom button - it's not a suit jacket.

Here's some interesting official info on USN pea jackets dating from 2003:

41. PEACOAT (E6 and Below)
a. Description
A double-breasted, hip length coat made of dark blue authorized fabric with a convertible collar, a set-in pocket in each forefront, and a single row of four 35-line black plastic anchor buttons down the right front and three on left. Men's peacoat buttons to the right.
b. Correct Wear. Button all buttons except collar button. Collar button may be buttoned in inclement weather. Wear the jumper collar inside the coat. Sleeves are to reach about three-quarters of distance from the wrist to the knuckles when arms hang naturally at the sides.


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

Since he's not active duty navy, I think we can leave it to a grown man like inq89 to decide for himself how to wear it. Maybe he's doing the same thing I often do - leaving the bottom undone so it's easier to sit down.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Orgetorix said:


> Since he's not active duty navy, I think we can leave it to a grown man like inq89 to decide for himself how to wear it.


It was honest advice which I think is helpful. There was nothing snarky about my post, unlike yours.


> Maybe he's doing the same thing I often do - leaving the bottom undone so it's easier to sit down.


It eliminates most of the protection which the coat is supposed to provide! If he's doing it because of the rule that all men's jackets should have the bottom button undone, then he shouldn't because but that rule is only for suits and sports jackets. If he's doing it because he's about to sit down, then fine, but the bottom buttons on those 6-button Sterlingwear coats are mounted really high and you don't need to unbutton them to sit down.


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## M Go Crimson (Aug 20, 2011)

Word of warning to athletic builds: You will swim in a coat with proper shoulder sizing; prepare for additional tailoring costs.


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## godan (Feb 10, 2010)

M Go Crimson said:


> Word of warning to athletic builds: You will swim in a coat with proper shoulder sizing; prepare for additional tailoring costs.


This was true, indeed, for me. Growing up in Seattle, I was familiar with surplus Navy peacoats, including the shoulder issue and the difficulty many alterations tailors have with the heavy fabric. A couple of years ago, when I decided I wanted a peacoat for the first time in about thirty years, I shopped for "civilian" models with no shoulder padding and settled on a wool blend London Fog from Macy's. The shoulders fit, and my alterations tailor handled the sleeves and waist. I like its light weight relative to the Navy version.


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