# Single or double vent?



## XdryMartini (Jan 5, 2008)

Aloha... I'm having a Donegal Tweed odd jacket made at Field's in DC and am undecided for what to do about the vents. I'm told I have an athletic build (5'8", 46" chest, 34" waist). What would you recommend to compliment my build. Or, is it solely a personal preference? I tend to be more traditional in my choices.


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## JayJay (Oct 8, 2007)

I prefer double vents.


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## Aaron in Allentown (Oct 26, 2007)

I also prefer double vents. If I were having a tweed coat made, I would probably follow tailoring queues from the UK or Ireland. This would definitely include double vents and would possibly include slanted hip pockets.


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## upr_crust (Aug 23, 2006)

*I would think that side (i.e. double) vents . . . .*

. . . would be the way to go, assuming you want a more English look.

Either single or double vents would be fine - double vents would be more UK in style, a single center vent would be more traditional US.

For myself, I think that I would opt for double vents - the only circumstance that I could think of that would make a single vent preferable is if one is in possession of an especially protuberant butt, which, from your other measurements as stated, would not seem to be the case.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

side or center its your choice. but since you have a 12 inch drop do not have the waist and seat fitted too snugly. make it very slightly easy, or you will have that v shape. ask your tailor about this. i say this because some folks go overboard on snug fitting.


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## NewYorkBuck (May 6, 2004)

Double or none.


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## Will (Jun 15, 2004)

The single vented jacket is less than attractive when the wearer puts his hands in his trouser pockets. The double vented jacket design doesn't have the same problem.


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## larsrindsig (Dec 31, 2006)

Surely, though, a tweed jacket is one place where a single centre vent makes sense (from a historical point of view), particularly if you have the slanted hacking pockets? That being said, I greatly prefer side vents myself and have them on all my jackets - including tweed ones.


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## Cruiser (Jul 21, 2006)

Will said:


> The single vented jacket is less than attractive when the wearer puts his hands in his trouser pockets. The double vented jacket design doesn't have the same problem.


I prefer no vents simply because it looks better on me than a single vent and I just don't like the looks of a double vent. For some reason double vents reminds me of long johns with the button up flap over the butt.

And as far as how no vent looks when one puts one's hands in his pockets, when I was in the military they drilled into us that it was not appropriate to put your hands in your pockets for any reason other than to retrieve something. No standing around with hands in pockets.

Therefore, if I now want to stand around with my hands in my pockets (which I often do), I simply unbutton my jacket and push it back behind my hands. While I know that a gentleman does not unbutton his jacket when standing, since I am already violating a rule about standing around with my hands in my pockets, I might as well be two for two. :icon_smile_big:

Cruiser


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## JibranK (May 28, 2007)

I agree. I only have three jackets but just one has vents (which are double vents) I like the unbuttoned ventless jacket with waistcoat look.


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## PJC in NoVa (Jan 23, 2005)

One more vote for side vents here.


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## A.J. Di Liberti (Jan 1, 2008)

I prefer no vent at all.

I've a 46" waist and 60" chest, and believe ventless looks fine.

A.


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## Lauriston (Dec 17, 2007)

If you intend on wearing it to casual business functions I think that a single vent would be more professional looking.


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## Will (Jun 15, 2004)

Lauriston said:


> If you intend on wearing it to casual business functions I think that a single vent would be more professional looking.


You raise horses for a living?


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## Orsini (Apr 24, 2007)

*Viva Side-vents!*



XdryMartini said:


> Aloha... I'm having a Donegal Tweed odd jacket made...what to do about the vents...


I side with the wardrobe professionals. Except for cases where no vent is appropriate (semi-formal, db, or Italian style) I recommend you always demand side vents. Assuming that they are properly tailored, they will look better than the miserable center vent -- hands in pockets or not.


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## Tonyp (May 8, 2007)

Aaron in Allentown said:


> I also prefer double vents. If I were having a tweed coat made, I would probably follow tailoring queues from the UK or Ireland. This would definitely include double vents and would possibly include slanted hip pockets.


 +1 If you want it to look like it was made for you go for the side vents, slanted pockets and even a ticket pocket and get the working button holes as well.


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## A.J. Di Liberti (Jan 1, 2008)

What is the reason for vents?

To allow for sitting in a saddle or carrying a sword?


To hell with reasons of old, what fits you best and what do you prefer?

A.


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## Aaron in Allentown (Oct 26, 2007)

Will said:


> You raise horses for a living?


That was really funny.


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## ilikeyourstyle (Apr 24, 2007)

I find double vents are more flattering than unvented or single-vented coats, and I will only purchase suits with double vents now.


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## Good Old Sledge (Jun 13, 2006)

If it is going to be heavily constructed - that is, with high arm holes, pretty severe waist surpression and a generally "military" silohouette (like your old alphas), then you're getting a more "British" cut and the slanted ("hacking") pockets and double vents are the ticket (as would be a ticket pocket). If it's a bit more of a Brooks Brothers "sack" cut, you'll want single vent. 
With your build, I'd certainly recommend the British presentation - particularly since you (probably) still have the Marine issue posture to carry it off well.


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

If you follow American tradition, a centre vent is the way to go. But as Donegal is more British, following British tradition would be more appropriate. As for country coats, an equestrian coat would have a centre vent, while a hunting coat would have side vents. Since you probably won't be doing either, side vents have the most advantages: covering your bottom while reaching into your pockets, draping best while seated, and the vents elongate the line of the legs. A single vent really only has advantages when in the saddle and when producing them for ready to wear. Otherwise, properly tailored side vents have the infinite advantage. Ventless sport coats were commonplace during the 1930's before vents became popular. But for the past 50 years, vents are most appropriate for sport coats. With this in mind, you should be able to make the decision that suits you.


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## Pluto (May 27, 2007)

I find a double vent as being more classic and stylish, but that could just be the Brit in me.


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## eguanlao (Feb 15, 2005)

*Single Vent*

I ask for a single vent when getting a sport jacket made because of its sporting origin. I also think it looks slightly less formal than double vents.

As for suits, I always ask for double vents. All of my suits have them. Of course, my dinner jacket is ventless.


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## XdryMartini (Jan 5, 2008)

*Reprise*

I talked w/ a tailor friend and he suggested that I offer this as additional info to all of you. I have run track and hiked in combat w/ 100# on my back. This has given me a muscular seat. His concern is that a double vent may protrude too much if the waist is done in a traditional British style and not fit as well as a single vent for me. This discussion has strengthened my desire for a double vent, but his observation has made me rethink it. Any thoughts?


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

A double vent properly tailored shouldn't be a problem. One of the worst things I've seen is a man with a large rear in a single vent. It flairs out into a point. With a double vent, as long as there is enough overlap to cover the butt and the flap is cut right, I can't see why it wouldn't work. Of course it is easiest to construct a ventless jacket and never have to worry about this problem.


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## dragon (Jan 28, 2006)

I love double vents. It looks modern


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## Teacher (Mar 14, 2005)

a tailor said:


> side or center its your choice. but since you have a 12 inch drop do not have the waist and seat fitted too snugly. make it very slightly easy, or you will have that v shape. ask your tailor about this. i say this because some folks go overboard on snug fitting.


_THIS_ is the very best advice on this thread. Vents are not the most important issue here. As someone who has nearly the same measurements (47 - 33), I can attest to the fact that super-fitted is not an attractive look for those of us who are already V-shaped. (Along the same lines, make sure the shoulders are not too built up.)

As to what I would order, it would be center. I'm not a fan of side vents, as they can take on a sort of square, boxy look. Also, they tend to accentuate my huge meaty butt, so center/none looks better on me. Then again, you may prefer a different look on yourself.


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## Southern Comfort (Jul 25, 2007)

I recently purchased a cord jacket at Johnston and Murphy and it is my first double vent jacket. After a few wears, the double vents are kind of growing on me. I solely wore single vents in the past, and I think it takes some getting used to the feel of the two sides. Originally I thought it looked funny when I tried it on, but it looks pretty good in the mirror.


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## penguin vic (Sep 20, 2007)

XdryMartini said:


> I talked w/ a tailor friend and he suggested that I offer this as additional info to all of you. I have run track and hiked in combat w/ 100# on my back. This has given me a muscular seat. His concern is that a double vent may protrude too much if the waist is done in a traditional British style and not fit as well as a single vent for me. This discussion has strengthened my desire for a double vent, but his observation has made me rethink it. Any thoughts?


Doesn't sound right at all ...

Double or none I say.


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## Bishop of Briggs (Sep 7, 2007)

Matt S said:


> If you follow American tradition, a centre vent is the way to go. But as Donegal is more British, following British tradition would be more appropriate. As for country coats, an equestrian coat would have a centre vent, while a hunting coat would have side vents. Since you probably won't be doing either, side vents have the most advantages: covering your bottom while reaching into your pockets, draping best while seated, and the vents elongate the line of the legs. A single vent really only has advantages when in the saddle and when producing them for ready to wear. Otherwise, properly tailored side vents have the infinite advantage. Ventless sport coats were commonplace during the 1930's before vents became popular. But for the past 50 years, vents are most appropriate for sport coats. With this in mind, you should be able to make the decision that suits you.


+1 but Donegal tweed is IRISH.


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## rgrossicone (Jan 27, 2008)

The historical reason for the vents is as someone said before, riding. The sports jacket is a descendant of riding coats that have been shortened according to the styles of the time. The double vents allowed the wearer to sit comfortably on his horse (and presumably easily unsheath his weapon). 

For the record, I have a big butt, so I also enjoy two vents.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

On a tweed jacket, I would opt for double vents.


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## XdryMartini (Jan 5, 2008)

*Update*

I had the first fitting yesterday, and the double vents looked great!! So, if I can find the cord that connects my camera to the computer, I'll post some pics when it's finished.


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## Preu Pummel (Feb 5, 2008)

XdryMartini said:


> I had the first fitting yesterday, and the double vents looked great!!


Excellent.

It depends on your body shape and preference of look, but I was going to recommend double vents. Some dislike the 'hourglass' effect it can give if the waist is pinched in, but I think it looks classic unless you have hips wider than shoulders in which case you can look a bit... fatass.

I have a 3 button tweed suit with English fit and double vents, and it's wonderful. But, that's a matter of personal taste, and some like the ventless look because it is more prevalent in modern movies. Double vents also allow easier, less messy, access to trouser pockets, and helps preserve the suit when seated.


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## ChicagoTrad (Feb 19, 2007)

XdryMartini said:


> Aloha... I'm having a Donegal Tweed odd jacket made at Field's in DC and am undecided for what to do about the vents. I'm told I have an athletic build (5'8", 46" chest, 34" waist). What would you recommend to compliment my build. Or, is it solely a personal preference? I tend to be more traditional in my choices.


I'm going to go against the grain here and suggest a center vent. Given your size and build, a side vent can make you look wider than you really are at the hips and negate some of the suppression you would probably want from your shoulders to your hips.

I have a similar build, taller, but with a big chest (42-44) and down to a 34 (used to be a 30-32). I've seen side vents that make my hips look huge and make me look a lot fatter than I really am.

So, unless you try on a few they've made to get a feel for it and like it, I'd recommend a center vent.


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## mafoofan (May 16, 2005)

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that I don't think I've ever seen a center vent that looked better than side vents would have on a suit jacket or sportcoat.


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## manton (Jul 26, 2003)

mafoofan said:


> I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that I don't think I've ever seen a center vent that looked better than side vents would have on a suit jacket or sportcoat.


I mostly agree, the one exception would be a true hacking jacket, short roll, high stance, true 3-button, throat latch, slanted pockets, ticket pocket, etc. Then it's mostly a matter of "authenticity."


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## Cantabrigian (Aug 29, 2005)

manton said:


> I mostly agree, the one exception would be a true hacking jacket, short roll, high stance, true 3-button, throat latch, slanted pockets, ticket pocket, etc. Then it's mostly a matter of "authenticity."


There's only one other possible exception I can think of - a columnar or Y-shaped silhouette on a thin dude.

If - and it's a pretty big if - it's well done, i.e. vent stays closed, I think it can look good and even better than double vents.


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## David Bresch (Apr 11, 2004)

Wasn there or is there a time or place or both where single vents are/were more fashionable? A previous thread suggested that double vents became "standard issue" in the seventies on Savile Row. What was its standard before the seventies?


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## KiwiTweedman (May 22, 2008)

*No Vent Jacket ....Yuck.... How ugly*

I'm A Big Fan Of Traditional one Or Two Vents In Sports Jackets/coats...Suit Jackets

No Vents Are TOO!!! Tight Looking....They look Just Awful


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## rocco (Feb 21, 2007)

I would never ever own a single vent jacket of any type.


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## Pipps (Dec 20, 2005)

In my opinion, the cardinal rule is - double for business, single for casual.

If your jacket is to be made from tweed, then it should be a single. Simple.

:icon_smile:


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

Mr. Pipps said:


> In my opinion, the cardinal rule is - double for business, single for casual.
> 
> If your jacket is to be made from tweed, then it should be a single. Simple.
> 
> :icon_smile:


Somehow in America people I've come across see it as the other way for business and casual. They hadn't seen double vents before a few years ago and they have some idea that they're fashion forward. I hope they're here to stay in America.
But for Tweed, I agree that a single vent is always appropriate, but I think double vents are also great on shooting jackets. I love the look of action shoulder pleats that are balanced down below with double vents. For equestrian tweed coats, a single vent is the only way to go.


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## rocco (Feb 21, 2007)

Mr. Pipps said:


> In my opinion, the cardinal rule is - double for business, single for casual.
> 
> If your jacket is to be made from tweed, then it should be a single. Simple.
> 
> :icon_smile:


Really? I can't remember seeing many Brits in single vented blazers.


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## Pipps (Dec 20, 2005)

rocco said:


> Really? I can't remember seeing many Brits in single vented blazers.


The single vent originates from the hacking jacket. Same as the slanted front pockets. It is very British indeed. At least in terms of origin.

I never wear a single vent for business, and secretly weep for those ill-informed enough that do. However, I like to differentiate between my busines and casual jackets, and aside from the choice of fabric and colour, I find the single vent an excellent way to make a casual jacket stand out. And I do this with confidence, because I believe it to be appropriate and correct.

I wonder if Sartor can provide any insights into this subject?...


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## lichMD (Jun 30, 2005)

*Double vent*

fan here. I find it accommodates me best.
Cheers
J


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## Sator (Jan 13, 2006)

Mr. Pipps said:


> I wonder if Sator can provide any insights into this subject?...


I would if I had any new insights beyond what has already been written ie the single vent has its origins in equestrian attire and is sportier. I generally prefer double vents on my lounge coats - if I have them at all, for I usually prefer unvented coats. The only exception is with my summer coats, when I always ask for double vents, since it makes the coat cooler.


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## 16412 (Apr 1, 2005)

I remember seeing a few dv in the sixties- like 1960. DV are much more intelligent than sv. Hacking jackets back in the 40's and 50's has smaller dv (something like 8 inches instead of eleven).

Has Body-Coats always had sv? Body-Coats are before Loungers (sb) and Reefers (db). If you go back further I'm sure you will see vents.


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## 16412 (Apr 1, 2005)

manton said:


> I mostly agree, the one exception would be a true hacking jacket, short roll, high stance, true 3-button, throat latch, slanted pockets, ticket pocket, etc. Then it's mostly a matter of "authenticity."


Didn't a true hacking jacket have 4-buttons first?

I thought three was later.


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## SimonTemplar (Feb 3, 2008)

I prefer no vents, especially on double breasested suits.


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