# J. Press Disappoints



## Urbnhautebourg (Oct 5, 2011)

My wife bought me some Cavalry Twills for Christmas to replace my 10 year old pair, each from J. Press. Wow. Not good. The fabric on the new ones are about 1/2 as thick. Flimsy, actually, for the style. These would have been an excellent $140 pair of trousers, but J Press is charging something like $340 for them (we got them 40% off of that, though). Truly abominable. These are definitely going back. I am actually saddened by Press. If it weren't for their utter failure in recent years to produce a true natural shoulder jacket (why do they insist that they do make a real natural shoulder, when they obviously do not), I might look at these trousers as an unfortunate one-off error.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

LOL. Alas, the times they are a'changing with so many of our favored retailers. Never has that old adage, "let the buyer beware," been more relevant to our shopping efforts!


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## Himself (Mar 2, 2011)

Indeed. I felt the same way about some flannels, "on sale" for more than similar quality at full price elsewhere.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

I still find it odd how one of their producers can make a great thin and soft shouldered blazer for O'Connells (with the J. Press tag inside!) yet all of their own recent stuff has been so shoulder-y. What gives?


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## 127.72 MHz (Feb 16, 2007)

Ironic post knowing that within the past month I have purchased both a pair of cavalry twills and a pair of flannels from J. Press. (Both at a substantial discount) I didn't bother to have either one hemmed because they both went straight back to J. Press.

I followed up with a phone call the same day I shipped them back and the young Japanese lady I spoke to was quite defensive about my comment that the weight of the wool in both pairs was much lighter than the previous pairs I have purchased from J. Press. 

In the future I'll deal with J. Press in the same way I deal with Brooks Brothers,.....If there's something at a deep discount I'll give it a try, (occasionally I'll pick up a shirt on sale from Brooks) and I'll not hesitate to return it if it turns out to be chintzy. I'm done being loyal to either one.

I know you're only trying to help Eagle but I'm not sure how the buyer is supposed to beware when they purchase the exact same item from a merchant that they've been dealing with for years. (Isn't the reason one purchases from an old school merchant like Brooks or J. Press because you don't want to have to "Beware?")


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## C. Sharp (Dec 18, 2008)

Are theses the trousers? https://www.jpressonline.com/trousers_dress_detail.php?id=8551T



Urbnhautebourg said:


> My wife bought me some Cavalry Twills for Christmas to replace my 10 year old pair, each from J. Press. Wow. Not good. The fabric on the new ones are about 1/2 as thick. Flimsy, actually, for the style. These would have been an excellent $140 pair of trousers, but J Press is charging something like $340 for them (we got them 40% off of that, though). Truly abominable. These are definitely going back. I am actually saddened by Press. If it weren't for their utter failure in recent years to produce a true natural shoulder jacket (why do they insist that they do make a real natural shoulder, when they obviously do not), I might look at these trousers as an unfortunate one-off error.


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## 127.72 MHz (Feb 16, 2007)

^^ Yes indeed. Mine were the dark olive. I'll try O'Connells? When approaching the $300.- range I'll strongly consider having Hemrajani custom make a pair in the 11-15 ounce flannel or cavalry twill of my choice. 

Now I'm happy that I've ordered enough from Joe and Rishi Hemrajani that they have my current measurements, and patterns, on file.

Sad state of affairs.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

Brooks' decline is almost understandable as they've grown the footprint to the point that they have to compete on unfamiliar grounds with more "fashion" oriented merchandise. J.Press, on the other hand, hasn't grown and should (one might think) be able to continue on servicing a small but loyal clientele. Unfortunately the shoulders are as heavy duty as anything out there and many of the other items seem to be declining in quality.


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## L-feld (Dec 3, 2011)

I can empathize. I had purchased some flannels from J. Press and took them to my tailor to get the legs hemmed and tapered. He advised me that for the price they charge, he could just make me flannels, which would technically be cheaper, since they wouldn't require any tailoring.

I returned them and exchanged them for a doeskin blazer, which was mailed to me a week later. When it arrived, I noticed that not only were the shoulders curiously padded, but the front had darts as well. :confused2: I couldn't return it because it was purchased on sale.

I never even conceived that J. Press would be selling a darted blazer, so I never even thought to check. And it might have been on sale, but that doesn't mean it was cheap. Oy vey.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

I'm confused. How did you not know it was darted? J. Press has been selling darted jackets for years now and you should have had a good look before buying.


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## Himself (Mar 2, 2011)

127.72 MHz said:


> When approaching the $300.- range I'll strongly consider having Hemrajani custom make a pair in the 11-15 ounce flannel or cavalry twill of my choice.
> 
> Now I'm happy that I've ordered enough from Joe and Rishi Hemrajani that they have my current measurements, and patterns, on file.
> 
> Sad state of affairs.


I'm not sure this has changed. Even 30 years ago, semi-custom from a tailor was less expensive than a fancy store. I encourage anyone to explore this.


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## hockeyinsider (May 8, 2006)

With the age of very affordable made-to-order, made-to-measure and bespoke clothing -- shirts, jackets, suits -- there's really no reason to frequent the traditional off-the-peg stores. 

J. Press is probably better than Brooks Brothers at the moment, but the price is incredibly inflated for what it is. Ben Silver is the same too. O'Connell's is fairly reasonable compared to J. Press.


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## Topsider (Jul 9, 2005)

Who pays $350 for OTR trousers...? That's just insane.


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## closerlook (Sep 3, 2008)

Topsider said:


> Who pays $350 for OTR trousers...? That's just insane.


have to agree


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## Cowtown (Aug 10, 2006)

Topsider said:


> Who pays $350 for OTR trousers...? That's just insane.


It is a steep price, but I did pay that for some Ben Silver gabardine trousers and I could not be happier. The fit is perfect for me and the fabric is superb.


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## L-feld (Dec 3, 2011)

Jovan said:


> I'm confused. How did you not know it was darted? J. Press has been selling darted jackets for years now and you should have had a good look before buying.


It can be a little tough with those website pictures. Like I said, I had no idea they even sold darted jackets, so I never thought to look. Not saying that it wasn't my fault, but it was also an honest mistake. It wouldn't have been a big deal except for their "nothing on sale can be returned" policy.

I have pretty much resigned only to buy from Press when I have time to go to the store in DC.


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## Liquiriza (Dec 25, 2012)

C. Sharp said:


> Are theses the trousers? https://www.jpressonline.com/trousers_dress_detail.php?id=8551T


Super 110's is very fine wool. You would be unlikely to find heavy cloth made from such wool. If you want substantial wool pants, you'll have to go down in quality.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

hockeyinsider said:


> With the age of very affordable made-to-order, made-to-measure and bespoke clothing -- shirts, jackets, suits -- there's really no reason to frequent the traditional off-the-peg stores.
> 
> J. Press is probably better than Brooks Brothers at the moment, but the price is incredibly inflated for what it is. Ben Silver is the same too. O'Connell's is fairly reasonable compared to J. Press.


Who would you suggest for affordable MTM, MTO, and bespoke?


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## hockeyinsider (May 8, 2006)

Jovan said:


> Who would you suggest for affordable MTM, MTO, and bespoke?


Ratio has nice shirts, MyTailor does good suits -- heck even S. Cohen, who makes J. Press and O'Connell's, has a stellar and very affordable custom program.

There are dozens of options. Some much better than others.


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## Urbnhautebourg (Oct 5, 2011)

Liquiriza said:


> Super 110's is very fine wool. You would be unlikely to find heavy cloth made from such wool. If you want substantial wool pants, you'll have to go down in quality.


That is a fantastic point, so I am a bit at fault, I suppose.

As for buying a $350 pair of pants OTR, please note that I did not. The sale price was $250, which is my upper limit. Also, I feel that I can splurge every once in a while given that all my best suits are about $120, fresh from the Trad Thrift Exchange (it's name be praised).


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## C. Sharp (Dec 18, 2008)

Finding out that the trousers were in a super #, I understand your orginal post better. I would agree that the the supers are not the best chioce of fabric for Cavalry twills or flannel odd trousers for the traditionalist.



Urbnhautebourg said:


> That is a fantastic point, so I am a bit at fault, I suppose.
> 
> As for buying a $350 pair of pants OTR, please note that I did not. The sale price was $250, which is my upper limit. Also, I feel that I can splurge every once in a while given that all my best suits are about $120, fresh from the Trad Thrift Exchange (it's name be praised).


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

hockeyinsider said:


> J. Press is probably better than Brooks Brothers at the moment, but the price is incredibly inflated for what it is.


With the exception of some _last-of-the-Mohicans_ family owned and run retailers, such as O'Connell's, you have the same B-school grads running all of them. And what they are taught is that the easiest way to make more money is to offer less for more. The standard mark-up from wholesale on men's wear used to be 100%. I would be surprised if now it isn't often multiples of that.

It is common for them to have little knowledge of the merchandise they sell, and they often wouldn't understand subtle, or even gross differences in quality of individual items. Their focus is entirely financial, and they are only interested in prices; what they can buy it for, and what they think they can sell it for. In their world, it's not about quality, tradition or style, it's only about brand.


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## 127.72 MHz (Feb 16, 2007)

Cowtown said:


> It is a steep price, but I did pay that for some Ben Silver gabardine trousers and I could not be happier. The fit is perfect for me and the fabric is superb.


Ben Silver will never know how much influence they've had in me having more of my clothing Tailor made. My last Holland and Sherry suit I had made with two pairs of trousers came in at about the same cost as one of Ben Silver's Southwick made, (I believe) suits.


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## Danny (Mar 24, 2005)

Jovan said:


> Who would you suggest for affordable MTM, MTO, and bespoke?


English American here in Westminster, MD is a pretty reasonable MTM shop.


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## peterc (Oct 25, 2007)

Topsider said:


> Who pays $350 for OTR trousers...? That's just insane.


Well, I was quite happy to pay $428.00 for OTR wool twill trousers at Paul Stuart last year. Forward pleats and side tabs. They are flawless in every way I expected them to be.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

I think the willingness or appropriateness of paying this sort of money for OTR clothing depends entirely on how the clothing fits and what the quality is. If it requires a lot of doctoring from a tailor then no, it would make more sense to pursue MTM as an option. On the other hand, I can't imagine having a better pair of pants, sport coat, or suit made than those I buy from Ralph Lauren (the Italy stuff). I've handled my fair share of MTM and bespoke and the only results that have impressed me are more expensive than the stuff I can get off the peg at RL. And since I don't have to do anything but hem the trousers and take up the jacket sleeves I've got no reason to stray.


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## dbhdbhdbh (Aug 10, 2012)

If it is 11 oz. fabric you are looking for, have you seen the LL Bean Maine Guide pants? $99. https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/353...s-SR0&page=maine-guide-wool-pants-four-pocket


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## L-feld (Dec 3, 2011)

Danny said:


> English American here in Westminster, MD is a pretty reasonable MTM shop.


Are they the same as Tom James or are they a distinct shop?


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## Danny (Mar 24, 2005)

L-feld said:


> Are they the same as Tom James or are they a distinct shop?


Same facility/shop, two different retail entities.


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## dizzyfan (Mar 28, 2009)

I ordered a tweed jacket as a Christmas gift. They sent me the wrong jacket -- a linen one that was less expensive. They admitted their mistake but said the other model was gone and that I was out of luck. They offered to refund my money only after they received the other jacket back. I can't say that it was terrible customer service (though I'm still waiting on the refund), but they put me in a jam because of their mistake and did not feel obligated to go out of their way correct it.


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## Hayek (Jun 20, 2006)

Trip English said:


> I think the willingness or appropriateness of paying this sort of money for OTR clothing depends entirely on how the clothing fits and what the quality is. If it requires a lot of doctoring from a tailor then no, it would make more sense to pursue MTM as an option. On the other hand, I can't imagine having a better pair of pants, sport coat, or suit made than those I buy from Ralph Lauren (the Italy stuff). I've handled my fair share of MTM and bespoke and the only results that have impressed me are more expensive than the stuff I can get off the peg at RL. And since I don't have to do anything but hem the trousers and take up the jacket sleeves I've got no reason to stray.


I used to think that MTM was naturally better than off the peg and bespoke was better than both, but then I actually started to handle/try on some really excellent off the peg clothes.

The tweed RL sportcoat (made in Italy) that I tried on recently was absolutely FANTASTIC. The shoulder had essentially no padding. Very fine material. It was over $1,000 (but less than that with a recent sale) and I think better than most of Press's offerings. Ditto for the Samuelsohn Greenwich I tried on recently--just an amazingly good looking and comfortable suit.

Neither are orthodox trad, but with shoulders like those and everything else about them so great, who really cares?


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## Dr. D (Nov 19, 2010)

I'm saddened but frankly not surprised to hear these stories. Sadly, Press just isn't what it used to be. 

On the other hand, I just received a fantastic emblematic bow tie and a shaggy dog for Christmas. Everything isn't bad at Press, you just have to be careful what you buy there. For me it's a similar situation at Brooks, where I used to get many things and now just drop in once a year to stock up on some OCBDs and striped repps.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Hayek: You can get a nice, MTM sack suit with the right shoulders, 3/2 buttoning, dartless front, etc. from forum favourite Paul Winston and, IIRC, Samuelsohn and Southwick still do MTM sack suits.


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## peterc (Oct 25, 2007)

A quick word to echo the comments of members who said that good OTR that fits you is something to keep an eye on. Both Polo blue label (44R) and black label (46R) fit me very nicely indeed. The jacket on the 46R required shortening, but my new tailor did an expert job on it.


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## Cowtown (Aug 10, 2006)

Hayek said:


> I used to think that MTM was naturally better than off the peg and bespoke was better than both, but then I actually started to handle/try on some really excellent off the peg clothes.
> 
> The tweed RL sportcoat (made in Italy) that I tried on recently was absolutely FANTASTIC. The shoulder had essentially no padding. Very fine material. It was over $1,000 (but less than that with a recent sale) and I think better than most of Press's offerings. Ditto for the Samuelsohn Greenwich I tried on recently--just an amazingly good looking and comfortable suit.
> 
> Neither are orthodox trad, but with shoulders like those and everything else about them so great, who really cares?


I thought the Greenwich was the Samuelsohn undated 3/2, or maybe it is the Greenwich II. Either way, I agree about the shoulders. I am thinking about a Samuelsohn MTM for my next suit


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## Hayek (Jun 20, 2006)

The Greenwich I saw (at Wm. Fox in DC) was a 2 button darted number. I asked about the Greenwich II but was told that that was probably just to signify a Greenwich with two buttons.


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## Himself (Mar 2, 2011)

Most people have no idea how to go about shopping for MTM... where to go, who to call, what to ask for...


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## Haffman (Oct 11, 2010)

peterc said:


> A quick word to echo the comments of members who said that good OTR that fits you is something to keep an eye on. Both Polo blue label (44R) and black label (46R) fit me very nicely indeed. The jacket on the 46R required shortening, but my new tailor did an expert job on it.


Like you, I also find that the trick with Black Label is to go up one size


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## Himself (Mar 2, 2011)

Dr. D said:


> I'm saddened but frankly not surprised to hear these stories. Sadly, Press just isn't what it used to be.
> 
> On the other hand, I just received a fantastic emblematic bow tie and a shaggy dog for Christmas. Everything isn't bad at Press, you just have to be careful what you buy there. For me it's a similar situation at Brooks, where I used to get many things and now just drop in once a year to stock up on some OCBDs and striped repps.


True everywhere, especially for this crowd, with our out-of-the-mainstream taste.

Home runs aside, I'd say Press has the higher batting average.


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## peterc (Oct 25, 2007)

Haffman said:


> Like you, I also find that the trick with Black Label is to go up one size


Yes. The bad part is having to shorten the jacket. Delicate operation which requires an expert hand. Fortunately, I have finally found such a tailor. I will also add that the fabric on my RL Black Label suit - a navy gabardine - is absolutely stunning. I have never seen fabric like that.

Double also: Ordered a pair of black flannel, forward pleated, side tabbed trousers from the Polo shop here in SF. They arrived ON TIME TO THE WEEK and were flawless. Not cheap, but I have been looking for a pair of black flannel forward pleat trousers with side tabs for a few years now. Polo did not disappoint.


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## kforton (Oct 26, 2005)

Andover Shop is the answer if you are anywhere near Boston. MTM from Hertling--true quality. You can even order OTR Hertling from Andover. Best buy for the money, really.


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## icky thump (Feb 2, 2008)

I had good luck w J Press. Found two nice suits, a nail's head and a pin stripe, for 25% off. Tried on perhaps 6 or 7 before I found these two that just "fit." Yes now they have a teeny bit of shoulder and teeny weeny bit of dart.


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## Sartre (Mar 25, 2008)

I have been a loyal J. Press shopper for many years. Not all of their things appeal to me, but isn't that true of any retail establishment? My favorite bookstore carries books I'm not interested in, my favorite restaurant has some dishes I don't particularly care for, and while I like my car the manufacturer makes other models that I don't like as well. Why shouldn't this be true of J. Press, or anywhere else?

I don't care for their shirts, and can't speak to their trousers as they are too tight for me in the legs. But their tie collection (esp. recently) is exceptional and their Shaggy Dogs are still top quality. I bought a cashmere scarf there last year and it is terrific. Their wool "tweed" and fair isle socks are of very high quality, and they sell Alden shoes and Leatherman belts. They always have a few topcoats and/or raincoats that are of superb quality. And while some don't like the shoulders on (many of) their jackets, they still have the best collection, year after year, of traditional wool and tweed fabrics.

I like shopping there, getting to know the sales staff, and feeling like I'm a part of something.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

That's a flawed comparison. If those places _stop selling _the things that have worked for you and other people for a long time or make them to a lesser standard than they used to be -- things that formed the bedrock of their business -- of course you're going to be upset!


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## Brio1 (May 13, 2010)

Sartre said:


> I have been a loyal J. Press shopper for many years. Not all of their things appeal to me, but isn't that true of any retail establishment? My favorite bookstore carries books I'm not interested in, my favorite restaurant has some dishes I don't particularly care for, and while I like my car the manufacturer makes other models that I don't like as well. Why shouldn't this be true of J. Press, or anywhere else?
> 
> I don't care for their shirts, and can't speak to their trousers as they are too tight for me in the legs. But their tie collection (esp. recently) is exceptional and their Shaggy Dogs are still top quality. I bought a cashmere scarf there last year and it is terrific. Their wool "tweed" and fair isle socks are of very high quality, and they sell Alden shoes and Leatherman belts. They always have a few topcoats and/or raincoats that are of superb quality. And while some don't like the shoulders on (many of) their jackets, they still have the best collection, year after year, of traditional wool and tweed fabrics.
> 
> I like shopping there, getting to know the sales staff, and feeling like I'm a part of something.


What is it about their shirts that you don't like? (I'm curious.)


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## Billax (Sep 26, 2011)

Sartre said:


> I have been a loyal J. Press shopper for many years. Not all of their things appeal to me, but isn't that true of any retail establishment? My favorite bookstore carries books I'm not interested in, my favorite restaurant has some dishes I don't particularly care for, and while I like my car the manufacturer makes other models that I don't like as well. Why shouldn't this be true of J. Press, or anywhere else?
> 
> .... *they still have the best collection, year after year, of traditional wool and tweed fabrics.*
> 
> I like shopping there, getting to know the sales staff, and feeling like I'm a part of something.


^ This!


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## leisureclass (Jan 31, 2011)

Brio1 said:


> What is it about their shirts that you don't like? (I'm curious.)


I have a couple and the fit is good (somewhere inbetween BB slim and reg.), the quality is fine, but the collar and cuffs are quite stiff.


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## Billax (Sep 26, 2011)

Originally Posted by *Sartre* https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?p=1357757#post1357757
_"I have been a loyal J. Press shopper for many years. Not all of their things appeal to me, but isn't that true of any retail establishment? My favorite bookstore carries books I'm not interested in, my favorite restaurant has some dishes I don't particularly care for, and while I like my car the manufacturer makes other models that I don't like as well. Why shouldn't this be true of J. Press, or anywhere else?

I don't care for their shirts, and can't speak to their trousers as they are too tight for me in the legs. But their tie collection (esp. recently) is exceptional and their Shaggy Dogs are still top quality. I bought a cashmere scarf there last year and it is terrific. Their wool "tweed" and fair isle socks are of very high quality, and they sell Alden shoes and Leatherman belts. They always have a few topcoats and/or raincoats that are of superb quality. And while some don't like the shoulders on (many of) their jackets, they still have the best collection, year after year, of traditional wool and tweed fabrics.

I like shopping there, getting to know the sales staff, and feeling like I'm a part of something."

_
In support of Sartre's comments....


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## CMDC (Jan 31, 2009)

^That. Is. Impressive.

The first one, especially, is stunning.


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## Ensiferous (Mar 5, 2012)




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## oxford cloth button down (Jan 1, 2012)

Ensiferous - Don't hurt them too bad!


Honestly it hurts to say this , but I love my J.Press pinpoints a lot more than my J.Press OCBDs.


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## Ensiferous (Mar 5, 2012)

And I love the J. Press Trim Fit more than the BB Slim Fits, but Press just doesn't offer enough varieties. I hope that changes for the better, so Press has much room for improvement there.

I will also be critical of Press's recent radical price increases, which may have been done to ensure larger margins even after significant-appearing "markdowns." As any responsible consumer, I will am willing pay for what I really want, but it must be a reasonable price with no games. What's up with that, Onward USA?


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## Brio1 (May 13, 2010)

leisureclass said:


> I have a couple and the fit is good (somewhere inbetween BB slim and reg.), the quality is fine, but the collar and cuffs are quite stiff.


Yes, I've also noticed that the collar and cuffs feel like they are lined with cardboard. I'm hoping that they will soften up over time.


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## K Street (Dec 4, 2007)

Billax said:


> In support of Sartre's comments....


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## K Street (Dec 4, 2007)




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## Billax (Sep 26, 2011)




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## K Street (Dec 4, 2007)




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## Barnavelt (Jul 31, 2012)

^The rainbow of tweeds.. the repp ties... the uni stripe OCBDs.. the emblematics.. the rolls.. the perfect tie dimples.. the layering. This display is one of the most divine collections of classic American outfits I've ever seen. I thought Bookster was home of the most drool inducing tweeds but you guys are putting them to shame. I don't mean to be too effusive but these pics are the best advert J Press could ask for.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Okay... maybe Press isn't a _total_ loss these days.


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## ballmouse (Jul 30, 2011)

K Street: I love the collars on those shirts from your first batch of photos. Are those from J Press?


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## Billax (Sep 26, 2011)




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## Liquiriza (Dec 25, 2012)

Barnavelt said:


> ^The rainbow of tweeds.. the repp ties... the uni stripe OCBDs.. the emblematics.. the rolls.. the perfect tie dimples.. the layering. This display is one of the most divine collections of classic American outfits I've ever seen. I thought Bookster was home of the most drool inducing tweeds but you guys are putting them to shame. I don't mean to be too effusive but these pics are the best advert J Press could ask for.


J Press is serious business. It will be interesting to see if the new "York Street" collection (spring/summer 2013) sells to J press's traditional customers. IMHO it is extremely WASP'ish and is not going to sell well. Classic confusion between Ivy League and Preppy looks. (Tweed and heavy fabrics == Ivy, Madras, shorts and no socks == Preppy.):crazy:

https://www.complex.com/style/2012/...on-pays-homage-to-the-iconic-brands-prep-look


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## Danny (Mar 24, 2005)

We've come full circle here haven't we? Press isn't all bad, just has some shortcomings from time to time. The fact that we get all riled up about them just shows how important they are to us.

That array of photos is all that need be said.


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## Uncle Bill (May 4, 2010)

I'm headed back to NYC in the spring and J. Press is on my shortlist of stores to stop by, bought a gingham dress shirt from them last year and I like it a fair bit. I really want to get their blue with white university strip OCBD to fill out my rotation. I wish they had cheaper shipping options to Canada and used USPS instead of UPS.


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## hockeyinsider (May 8, 2006)

kforton said:


> Andover Shop is the answer if you are anywhere near Boston. MTM from Hertling--true quality. You can even order OTR Hertling from Andover. Best buy for the money, really.


I've never heard of Hertling.

It seems this community has always deemed Andover to be something for fat gents.


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## C. Sharp (Dec 18, 2008)

https://www.departures.com/articles/brooklyns-fashion-scene?page=2

https://try-it-who-knows-you-may-even-like-it.blogspot.com/2010/01/are-they-pants-or-trousers.html


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## Desk Jockey (Aug 19, 2005)

As long as I remember the style numbering system right, & it's not been changed, those infamous cav twills are from Hertling.


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## C. Sharp (Dec 18, 2008)

The trousers the OP was talking about may very well be Hertling. With out seeing the trousers I would be more inclined to continue to believe that the super number fabric was an inappropriate choice for the twills then believe it was a quality issue with the contract maker.

Big picture for years the Japanese owners treated American Press with benign neglect. American Press gave them the bona fides in their home market to do what ever they wanted. Although there was a plan for Press to expand with new stores in 90s they basically shelved it. I think it is clear that there attention has turned to the American market and they are experimenting with ways to make more money.

To address post#62, it not an issue of an Ivy/Prep/Wasp power struggle. Its an issue that everything has to be "updated" now. I think for many of the folks here, the straighter J. Press plays it, the better we like it.
This explains it https://yalebooks.wordpress.com/2012/12/13/guest-article-fashion-expert-eric-musgrave-on-ivy-style/


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## hockeyinsider (May 8, 2006)

C. Sharp said:


> The trousers the OP was talking about may very well be Hertling. With out seeing the trousers I would be more inclined to continue to believe that the super number fabric was an inappropriate choice for the twills then believe it was a quality issue with the contract maker.
> 
> Big picture for years the Japanese owners treated American Press with benign neglect. American Press gave them the bona fides in their home market to do what ever they wanted. Although there was a plan for Press to expand with new stores in 90s they basically shelved it. I think it is clear that there attention has turned to the American market and they are experimenting with ways to make more money.
> 
> ...


I find it odd that J. Press is launching a store aimed at a younger demographic. It appears to be going down the failed route of Rugby Ralph Lauren, which tried competing with J. Crew. Brooks Brothers has also done this with its Flat Iron shops. I don't see these stores taking off. Why reinvent the wheel, unless your brand is so tarnished among a certain demographic?

It would be wiser -- and less expensive -- to incorporate a reinvigorated selection of offerings in your existing brand instead of trying to create a new one to mimic J. Crew.


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## Youthful Repp-robate (Sep 26, 2011)

hockeyinsider said:


> It would be wiser -- and less expensive -- to incorporate a reinvigorated selection of offerings in your existing brand instead of trying to create a new one to mimic J. Crew.


I think Trip English said, on the occasion of the launch of one of those collabs, something like "Press is willing to try anything besides improving the products they already carry" -- and though I don't know about that, since I'm quite happy with my shirt and two squares, he might just have a point.

If, however, I found myself with enough money to pay retail for ties, I would gladly purchase all of mine from Press's selection, and the sportcoats would prove mighty tempting. I'm happy with my shirt (cut perhaps a little too fully for my frame), but I'm curious about the slim-cut OCBDs -- the flap pocket lends panache to the white oxford, which is otherwise not one of my favorite shirts.


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