# Trip to Allen Edmonds to See the New Collection!



## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

Gentlemen,

Many here will remember that, back in June, my son and I were guests of the Allen Edmonds Shoe Company and had the opportunity to tour the factory and watch my special order Merlot Moras come to life. We met CEO Paul Grangaard, VP of Operations Jim Kass and Customer Service Specialist Brenda Depies during our visit. Over 15,500 views of that thread told me that people found our visit of interest, and I have appreciated all of the feedback received. That thread can be found here: https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?t=95708

The AE thread was also the begining of numerous friendships for me: It has been my distinct pleasure to get to know the Allen Edmonds team and to gain their friendship. In addition, I have become friends with two gentlemen here: LD111134 (Lou) and Francisco D'Anconia (Josh), both of whom are great guys and are as quick to share a laugh as they are their knowledge of things sartorial.

When I was up in Port Washington the first time, Paul held up this shoe and said this is his favorite--the Allen Edmonds Strand (below in Walnut). It is mine as well.










It was during that visit that I hit upon the idea of a special make up of that shoe in Shell Cordovan. Then during the Chicago get together, which LD put together back in September, I talked with Jim Kass and asked him if Allen Edmonds could do a brown shell cordovan (generally thought of as Horween's No. 6), and he was very enthusiastic. I asked the folks at Allen Edmonds if I could come up (and bring a few friends) and watch them being made. No problem they said. Paul told us he would share with us the details of their Spring and '10 Fall lines. I am very excited to share my commentary of the trip, pictures of the new line and my new shoes with you. As I did the first thread, I will write it up in installments and post as many picutres as I can. Enjoy.

G


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

For a simple starting point, the Strand is on the #5 last. Our good friends here have posted a lot of information about older Allen Edmonds styling and the information on lasts in several threads. (Last information here: https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?t=64989&highlight=lasts ) I won't go into too much of a discussion on lasts, but suffice it to say that the vast majority of my AE shoes are on either the #8, #1, or #0 last. I wanted to make sure of my size in the 5, so I stopped at the Allen Edmonds store on N. Michigan Avenue. There I was fitted for Strands by the lovely and talented Kim Ketter, Store Manager.










Kim - She went on our pub crawl she is a lot of fun as well as being great AE sales person.










Proper shoe fit - yes, I wore MacNeils to the store.










Kin with the shoe horn. Old fahioned shoe trial. (I went down the street afterwards to a store with a prominent horse and received no such help in trying on there $1,900 shoes.)










Success! I want to take these with me.

For those that are unlikely to get there, here are a few pipcs of the store itself.










Ok. I never claimed to be a great photographer.


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

Nephew,
thank you for sharing. when do you expect the special order?


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

mcarthur said:


> Nephew,
> thank you for sharing. when do you expect the special order?


Uncle Mac,

I expect them tomorrow or Wed. I can't wait ! :icon_smile_big:


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

Before touring the plant and having my shoes made, we had a (I think it was 2hrs) meeting with Paul, Colin, (International Marketing Man of Mystery) and Jim regarding the new lineup. I am going to ask Lou and Josh to step in here and add commentary because I just cannot remember every detail.









Above: Paul getting enthusiastic about his new shoes - passionate Cheif Executive!









Josh and I getting a "hands on" look at the new collection.

Ok, everyone wants to see the boots, so here goes:

The AE team have really tried to listen to us, the shoe enthusiasts, and produced several items in which you can see our influence:

First the Balmoral Boot - It is the Fifth Street, named for its kinship to the Fifth Ave. For starters, it will be available in Black and Brown Calf and Shell Cordovan. Check this out:



















What you will notice is the lacquered sole and the combination heel--they are listening. :icon_smile_wink:


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

The next big item of interest is the Blucher boot.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

For those among us that like to wear denim, Allen Edmonds has produced a distressed Chelsea boot.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

One thing I was hoping to see was some new loafers. I really like the look of the new Westchester.










My understanding is this will come out in Black, Brown, Walnut and Shell Cordovan.

Check out this new loafer - sorry folks I can't remember all of the names of the shoes.



















Notice the slip ons are much sleeker by taking advantage of the new 270 degree welting process.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

A new monkstrap with some serious Englilsh styling.


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

Nephew,
keep it coming. thank you for your efforts


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## LD111134 (Dec 21, 2007)

*Check out my Photobucket album of our visit*

Here's the link to my photo album. I figured that this would be easier than direclty posting them to the site because I took so many shots. https://s272.photobucket.com/albums/jj199/ld111134/Allen Edmonds Visit/

Unfortunately, my digital Canon Powershot is in the shop and I had to use my iPhone, so please excuse the images' quality.

As soon as we arrrived, we were ushered into a conference room with the new AE models displayed on the table. We then had a 90 minute or so meeting with CEO Paul Grangaard, VP of Operations Jim Kass and International Marketing Director Colin Hall, and we discussed the new line-up and we provided our own input. Gerard, Josh and I were frank about what we liked about current/new AEs and what we didn't like, and the AE team listened very attentively. We expressed our great preference for traditional/classic models such as the Strand (semi-brougue balmoral), MacNeil (longwing blucher) and the Mora (cap toe double monk strap) over more fashion-forward designs.

In regard to the new models, my own favorites were the perforated cap toe derby boots (in both brown and black calfskin), the distressed suede Chelsea boots and the black calfskin half-strap brougued slip-on.

We must give props to Paul, Jim and Colin (as Brenda Depies from Customer Service) for their time, hospitality and commitment to customer service.

The AE folks were nice enough to give us each customized cedarl shoe trees and a discount at the shoe bank. I myself picked up a burgundy belt, burgundy calfskin "Walden" weejuns and a pair of gloves.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

More shoes from the new collection:

New Balmoral.









Some new bicycle toes and, yes, a new saddle. I don't have a great picture of the saddle. (I was too busy staring at it)













































Just a note of thanks to LD - Many of your photos are much better than mine. Thanks for letting me use them.


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## Hanzo (Sep 9, 2009)

Well, at least I know where my tax return will be going.


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## Roikins (Mar 22, 2007)

Nice... that Bal boot is definitely on my "to buy" list now if it's kept in the price range of other A-Es. Not sure about the distressed boot; I'd prefer a non-distressed version. The new monkstrap definitely looks better than the Thayers I have.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

LD thanks for your commentary above. So you might be asking yourself what's new? Well a great deal. Besides the boots you will notice there are a number of new soles:



















Also greater use of the combination "toplift" or heel. 









In addition Pau and team have really been listening to folks from the Trad world with the new/old MacNeil










Some rumors about a leather heel - but . . . .










I didn't get a good picture but they are bringing back the Walton (Algonquin split toe) and they showed us a great dark brown pebble calf version of that shoe.

In the back row on the extreme right you can see the shoe










There really is so much more happening than I have been able to show. Lots more shoes in each line and with much greater emphasis on traditional styling and the core of what has made Allen Edmonds a great American Shoe Company.


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## LD111134 (Dec 21, 2007)

gman-17 said:


> ...and the core of what has made Allen Edmonds a *Great* *American Shoe Company*®.


FTFY. :icon_smile_wink:


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

Quote:
Originally Posted by *gman-17* https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?p=1035161#post1035161

_...and the core of what has made Allen Edmonds a great *American Shoe Company*®._

FTFY. :icon_smile_wink:

You are correct, sir. More tomorrow.


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## Pentheos (Jun 30, 2008)

I'm very pleased to see the MacNeil in brown pebblegrain. *Very*. No need now for Indian-made, sub-par Florsheims or special-order Aldens.


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## CuffDaddy (Feb 26, 2009)

Some great looking shoes there. But, no matter what A-E calls it, that boot _ain't_ a balmoral. Balmorals *must* have a horizontal seam. See these links for examples:

https://riderboot.files.wordpress.com/2008/02/2-dec-08-040.jpg
https://people.timezone.com/pchong/carmina-boot2.jpg
https://media.photobucket.com/image/balmoral boot/Satorarepo/EG_Shannon_82C.jpg

Sorry for the interruption.


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## LD111134 (Dec 21, 2007)

CuffDaddy said:


> Some great looking shoes there. But, no matter what A-E calls it, that boot _ain't_ a balmoral. Balmorals *must* have a horizontal seam.


Actually, AE doesn't call it a balmoral _per se_. That's just the imprecise terminology that we ourselves were using to distinguish closed-throat lacing from the open-throat lacing of the blucher/derby.


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## Poshak Man (Feb 25, 2006)

gman-17 said:


> More shoes from the new collection:
> 
> New Balmoral.
> 
> ...


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## CuffDaddy (Feb 26, 2009)

Then the better term is oxford, or oxford-laced, or closed-laced, boot. Balmoral boot has a specific meaning.


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## ksinc (May 30, 2005)

Pentheos said:


> I'm very pleased to see the MacNeil in brown pebblegrain. *Very*. No need now for Indian-made, sub-par Florsheims or special-order Aldens.


Amen! :icon_smile_big:


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## Kurt N (Feb 11, 2009)

CuffDaddy said:


> Then the better term is oxford, or oxford-laced, or closed-laced, boot. Balmoral boot has a specific meaning.


I thought I had it all straight, but now I'm confused again. I thought a Balmoral was a closed-lace shoe (called Oxford in the UK, whereas in the US an Oxford is any lace-up)..and that a Balmoral with a horizontal seam is called a _galosh._ Is that not correct? Are "Balmoral" and "galosh" just synonyms?


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## CuffDaddy (Feb 26, 2009)

Kurt N said:


> I thought I had it all straight, but now I'm confused again. I thought a Balmoral was a closed-lace shoe (called Oxford in the UK, whereas in the US an Oxford is any lace-up)..and that a Balmoral with a horizontal seam is called a _galosh._ Is that not correct? Are "Balmoral" and "galosh" just synonyms?


In the nomenclature system where "oxford" = closed lacing*, balmoral = oxford with horizontal seam. People often call those "galosh oxfords" because it's evocative; if the term "balmoral" has become confused, then something more literally descriptive is useful. But "galosh oxford" is nearly always applied to _shoes_ (particularly those with contrasting tops), rather than boot. "Galosh boots," however, runs the significant risk of evoking a rubber boot - do a google image search and see how many puddle-jumpers you see.

* Although this nomenclature is common in the UK, it is also found in the US. Regardless of its origins, it is more precise than the "oxford" = "not a loafer" system in that it is more precise. I suspect the latter is a corruption, and a reflection of ignorance on behalf of certain retailers of shoes (who passed their ignorance on to consumers), although I cannot prove it. The confusion this all creates cries out for the community of those interested in such terms (a significant portion of which are probably on this forum!) to make a conscious decision about usage.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

CuffDaddy said:


> Then the better term is oxford, or oxford-laced, or closed-laced, boot. Balmoral boot has a specific meaning.


CD,

I will make one foray into this discussion and then move and post more pictures tomorrow from the trip, etc. I have to call shenanigans on this silliness--how I wish Monty Python were still doing skits. Anyway, from Wikipedia: "in the U.S., _Balmoral_ is synonymous with _Oxford_; elsewhere, especially in Britain, the Balmoral is a particular type of Oxford where there are no seams (apart from the toe cap) descending to the welt, a style particularly common on boots.

This "strict" rule is violated all over the place (google it and you will find plenty of bal boots, including ancient onces with additional seams)--remember language is a living thing and I certainly am alive enough to allow Allen Edmonds to call their boot a Bal boot and will continue to do so myself. If you choose, you can follow me around and let me know I am wrong.


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## CuffDaddy (Feb 26, 2009)

I will risk further diversion of this thread by agreeing that, yes, language _is_ a living thing.

Like any living thing, it can be made better or worse through proper or improper care and use. There are those who would make the language less precise (or, more often, do not care about precision in language), and thus use terms in ways that reduce their precision. Those of us who prefer language to be as precise as possible without sacrificing flexibility/utility also have a role in shaping the living language.

As can be seen from the thread where advance word was given of a "balmoral boot," several posters (myself included) were mislead into anticipating a balmoral-seamed boot. Others were just led to expect a non-blucher boot, a much more general expectation. The use of the term "balmoral boot" to describe the new boot is thus _either _misleading or vague. Hardly satisfactory.

Regardless, please don't let my semantic rant obscure the fact that I am pleased to see AE continuing to offer new products using traditional techniques, nor my appreciation for your very informative and enjoyable posts. I _do_ appreciate it, and thanks for posting!


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## 127.72 MHz (Feb 16, 2007)

*Very Exciting New Allen Edmonds,...*

Great pictures fellas. I can already see a new pair of "5th Street" balmoral boots in burgundy shell cordovan. And there' s no chance I'll be able to do without a new pair of the saddles too.

Perhaps I'll make it back to Port Washington in 2010.

Much thanks,


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## Wes Bourne (Nov 12, 2009)

gman-17 said:


> First the Balmoral Boot - It is the Fifth Street, named for its kinship to the Fifth Ave. For starters, it will be available in Black and Brown Calf and Shell Cordovan. Check this out:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Well done.



gman-17 said:


> More shoes from the new collection:
> 
> New Balmoral.


Nice u-throat, but I'm not fond of the two rows of punching along the toe. Were you able to confirm if AE can recraft 360 welt shoes on their new 270 welt?


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

Wes Bourne said:


> Well done.
> 
> Nice u-throat, but I'm not fond of the two rows of punching along the toe. Were you able to confirm if AE can recraft 360 welt shoes on their new 270 welt?


I didn't ask. If you think about the method of construction which starts with the footbed and has the welting sewn onto it, I would have to believe this is not possible. I am sure that Paul, Jim or Colin will step in and answer at some point.

My faovrites of the new shoes

1) Bal Boot - definitely going SC

2) MacNeil - I want them in one of the peblle grains but I am very torn between the dark brown and the light (might need both).

3) Monkstrap - I would love to see if I can get a special order in SC


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## LD111134 (Dec 21, 2007)

Wes Bourne said:


> Nice u-throat, but I'm not fond of the two rows of punching along the toe. Were you able to confirm if AE can recraft 360 welt shoes on their new 270 welt?


This punch patten is not to my taste, either. I don't know where they came up with this particular pattern (Vass?).

We can ask Jim Kass if you can recraft 360 degree welted shoes as 270 degree welted shoes.


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## Wes Bourne (Nov 12, 2009)

LD111134 said:


> This punch patten is not to my taste, either. I don't know where they came up with this particular pattern (Vass?).


I do like the slight chisel on this last though. Is this a new shape?



LD111134 said:


> We can ask Jim Kass if you can recraft 360 degree welted shoes as 270 degree welted shoes.


I think even the most ardent AE supporters will agree this would be a good thing!


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

mcarthur said:


> Nephew,
> keep it coming. thank you for your efforts


I missed this. Thanks Uncle. I will be using your method on the the new shells when they arrive--I received notice they will be here tomorrow!!!!!!!


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## Mattdeckard (Mar 11, 2004)

What last?

And flat laces?

Looks awesome!









I'm also waiting for a return of the Bradly.


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## speedmaster (May 27, 2008)

Great post! ;-)


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## Poshak Man (Feb 25, 2006)

LD111134 said:


> This punch patten is not to my taste, either. I don't know where they came up with this particular pattern (Vass?).


Not Vass but looks very similar to Santonis Hayward model.


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## R-H (May 13, 2008)

gman-17 said:


> More shoes from the new collection:
> 
> New Balmoral.


Thank you very much for the pictures and the trip report. AE is making some great strides but why must they ruin some perfectly good shoes with their gimmicky broguing? The above is one of the less grievous examples.

Also, +1 to offering a plain toe single monk. AE should always have a monk strap offering in their mix.


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## Geoff Gander (Apr 4, 2007)

gman-17 said:


> First the Balmoral Boot - It is the Fifth Street, named for its kinship to the Fifth Ave. For starters, it will be available in Black and Brown Calf and Shell Cordovan. Check this out:


It's not 100% what I thought it would be, but it's close enough to be a welcome addition to my lineup. I'm getting a pair!

Geoff


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## srivats (Jul 29, 2008)

So many nice shoes .... the saddle shoes and the algonquin split toes are especially nice.

I think 2010 is going to be the year of AE for me (2009 was year of alden).

Thanks for sharing the pictures.


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## anonymouz (May 5, 2008)

Thanks for sharing! The MacNiels looks fantastic.
Those blucher boots look really similar to my Bayfields...


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## Wisco (Dec 3, 2009)

gman-17 said:


> A new monkstrap with some serious Englilsh styling.


Yum. These beauties in shell cordovan are now on my 2010 list! Please make this a choice AE!

I'll have to see if I can tag along for the next visit the AE HQ.... maybe 1.5-2 hours from Madison, WI?

Ciao,

Wisco


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## Nick V (May 8, 2007)

srivats said:


> So many nice shoes .... the saddle shoes and the algonquin split toes are especially nice.
> 
> I think 2010 is going to be the year of AE for me (2009 was year of alden).
> 
> Thanks for sharing the pictures.


Thanks for the essay.

Evidence shows that the present leadership at AE is dedicated and, *is* restoring the prestige of this Great American Shoe Company. Not easy to do in this economic climate. It's obvious in this forum that they credit, listen and, acknowledge the input.

Best wishes to all in 2010!


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## orty228 (Nov 18, 2008)

gman-17 said:


> For those among us that like to wear denim, Allen Edmonds has produced a distressed Chelsea boot.


In my opinion this distressed leather ruins the shoes. Earlier this year I bought two pairs of AE Malones online to wear with jeans tin the colors of this leather. Returned both of them as the distressed leather looked scratched and old, and not in a good way but in a fake cheap way. The lighter distressed is way worse though.


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## laufer (Feb 20, 2008)

Geoff Gander said:


> It's not 100% what I thought it would be, but it's close enough to be a welcome addition to my lineup. I'm getting a pair!
> 
> Geoff


So do I. Maybe even second pair. 
Well done everyone.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

Well I am glad we could shake things up and create some excitement yesterday. The discussion is both fun and informative, and I would bet the folks in Port Washington are listening.

My special order experience always starts the same way, with the lovely Brenda, customer service specialist extraordinaire. I have to put a small plug in for Brenda here. She was working with me on the eve of Thanksgiving (around 5:30 p.m.) to get my order right so it could be started first thing when the team got back to work after the holiday. Thanks again, Brenda.










Then we all received our shop glasses and moved to the manufacturing floor for a few perfunctory pitctures.


















Here are the begining's of my Shell Cordovan Strands--the actual shells.










These are the finished product of the work done here:

Although these are not Shell Strands they similar components which are cut, punched and sewn to make an upper. 





















































All of these steps, and more, go into the making of the upper portion of the shoe. In the end, you end up with something that maybe cut, seewn, brogued, punched, pinked, skived along with a number of other operations.

The pieces come together to create this:

















And eventually the upper is ready to be attached to the footbed:


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## rabidawg (Apr 14, 2009)

Some nice looking models, particularly the blucher boots. 

The broguing on some of the shoe models seems forced or random or both.


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## ykurtz (Mar 7, 2007)

*Great post*

Seriously considering those bal boots in shell cordovan. Perfect winter shoe for Chicago.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

ykurtz said:


> Seriously considering those bal boots in shell cordovan. Perfect winter shoe for Chicago.


Y, I agree and the should be quite affordable.


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## 127.72 MHz (Feb 16, 2007)

I would very much enjoy being included in the next trip to Allen Edmonds. 

Thanks so much to all involved.

Best wishes,


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## ctt (Dec 24, 2008)

Hoping those boots stay in the lineup until after I finish school when I can afford to pick up a couple pairs.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

Well since we have the upper part sewed together, let's get on to putting the shoe together.

So the upper has to be formed and then attached to the last. The upper is "roughed up" on the underside. This is so that the thin layer of glue which is used for temporary bonding of the to the last adheres. After this they are tacked and sewn into place--in other words the two are permanentaly joined. Much of the art of shoe making is found in the correct application of heat, pressure and limited amounts of water. In this secquence you can see the large amorphous shells take shape and become a pair of Allen Edmonds Strands--ok, dark brown shell cordovan strands. :icon_smile_big:

Rough side up for the moment.










Under Pressure!










More Pressure


















I am getting quite attached. :icon_smile_big:



















Once the footbeds are sewn into the shoes the excess upper is trimmed off and the shoes have some color applied and are buffed.



















That shell is really coming to life. I can hear Uncle Mac now--but don't use any polish for 15 to 20 wears. I'm listening Uncle, I'm listening. :icon_smile_wink:


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

At this point, the shoes are packed in plastic to protect the finish as the soles are sewn on and the heels or toplifts (as they are generally called) are applied.










I had the Redenbach soles added. The great thing about special orders is you can get any sole you want applied. I am thinking about some special order boots with mini lug soles.

Welting


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

Ok so we have the shoe upper sewn and formed, color applied and burnished and the welting is complete.










What are we missing? Hot cork!!


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## goodall (Aug 31, 2008)

Having been to Port Washington, I agree that it is a first class operation. Did those of you who visited happen to get any information of the sizing options of the new models i.e. will they come in a variety of widths or only B, D, EEE widths? Thanks.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

The shanks are then applied and the sole is glued into place for grooving and sewing.

First a little diversion - Josh and Lou took their turns showing the crew how it is done.










Nice job Guys! Comparing that to what I did in June. Ooh wait, there aren't any pictures of that.

Moving on.

Grooves cut and shoes sewn to the welt.




























Tomorrow I will attach the toplift and show the finished product.

They are definitely shaping up nicely.


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## laufer (Feb 20, 2008)

Gman et al,

Nice work with pictures and report from your visit. When are these models are going to be released??? Any ides?? I am in for Fifth Street, Westchester and maybe Blucher boot too.


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## Doctor B (Sep 27, 2006)

goodall said:


> Having been to Port Washington, I agree that it is a first class operation. Did those of you who visited happen to get any information of the sizing options of the new models i.e. will they come in a variety of widths or only B, D, EEE widths? Thanks.


I'd love to know the answer to this question as well. I will continue wearing AE shoes if they are available in my width (EEE; many of their lines cut out the EEE width in the past two years). Thank you for any insight you can offer.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

laufer said:


> Gman et al,
> 
> Nice work with pictures and report from your visit. When are these models are going to be released??? Any ides?? I am in for Fifth Street, Westchester and maybe Blucher boot too.


"Originally Posted by *goodall* https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?p=1035796#post1035796 
_Having been to Port Washington, I agree that it is a first class operation. Did those of you who visited happen to get any information of the sizing options of the new models i.e. will they come in a variety of widths or only B, D, EEE widths? Thanks._

I'd love to know the answer to this question as well. I will continue wearing AE shoes if they are available in my width (EEE; many of their lines cut out the EEE width in the past two years). Thank you for any insight you can offer."

Guys, I will try and answer all of these questions here.

I believe that they will all be available either in the Spring of '10 or before the fall--based on the likely seasonality of the products: loafers for the summer and boots for the fall.

I do not remember all of the last numbers--sorry guys. I should have known there would be a pop quiz. :icon_smile: I do believe that they will be standard AE size, which means the usual wide variety. We can get answers here though and we will .:icon_smile_wink:

Let me say a word about my compatriots. LD, Francisco and I left in a blizzard and drove over two hours to enjoy the tour and time with Paul and team. I appreciate their interest in all things, and I learn from both of them. I apprecaite the opportunity to make their acquaintance and enjoy their friendship. :aportnoy: The conversation in the car ride to and from was completely hilarious.

G


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## LD111134 (Dec 21, 2007)

Yes, it was a great time with two great guys. I especially gman's good humor despite all the grief I give him! :icon_smile_big:


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## Mr. Walter Trent (Jul 21, 2009)

Thanks for the report (and great pictures) guys!

I know I'm not alone in wishing I could have been there.

I really hope that this becomes a yearly event for AE and AAAC. I think both parties benefit a great deal from these kind of events.


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## goodall (Aug 31, 2008)

gman-17

Thanks for your response and the information.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

LD111134 said:


> Yes, it was a great time with two great guys. I especially gman's good humor despite all the grief I give him! :icon_smile_big:


I just told my wife how you like to torque me up and she leaned over to my teenage daughter and asked her she was paying you to do that. :icon_smile_big:


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

Today's posts will be heels and pics of the completed product.

Once the sole and the upper have been sewn together, the shoes are put on a machine and more pressure is applied to the soles to ensure they are perfectly flat and provide an excellent walking surface.










Remember heat, pressure and a little bit of water.


















The heels or toplifts are created through a combination of pieces which are put together--combination toplift.





































Once this is complete they are shaped up and moved to finishing.




































Finihsing means: 1) Adding the edge dressing 2) Removing the protective plastic which is used during manufacture 3) Buffing and polishing to insure they are at the proper quality level for an Allen Edmonds product.

Prefinish:









Edging



















Jim using the quick dry method on the edge dressing - that's why he gets paid the big bucks. :icon_smile_big:










My favorite part - finishing.



















Here is what they looked like when they were complete at Allen Edmonds - but they had to sit on the lasts over the weekend. :icon_pale:










Shoes waiting to go to customers.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

*The Finished Product!*

My dark brown Shell Cordovan Strands!


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

*What a fit!*

I might just have to wear them as slippers until summer.


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## CuffDaddy (Feb 26, 2009)

Beautiful! I have dark brown Strands in calf, but they look even better in horse-hide.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

CuffDaddy said:


> Beautiful! I have dark brown Strands in calf, but they look even better in horse-hide.


C Daddy, I have to agree they are beautiful. I am very glad we did them in dark brown horse. They are stellar.


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## ksinc (May 30, 2005)

Those are gorgeous! You should get a 5% commission on special orders now! :icon_smile_wink:

Tangent: That jacket looks great on you. I wish I looked as good in a 3-button odd jacket. They make me look like I have no torso for some reason.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

ksinc said:


> Those are gorgeous! You should get a 5% commission on special orders now! :icon_smile_wink:
> 
> Tangent: That jacket looks great on you. I wish I looked as good in a 3-button odd jacket. They make me look like I have no torso for some reason.


ksinc,

Thanks very much for the compliments on the jacket. BTW - Holdast sold it to me. Thanks you Holdfast.

I really believe that people should give the special order service a try--I have been very happy with both exepriences as you can tell. Honestly, the shoes were a deal. They weren't inexpensive but relatively speaking a tremendous bargain.

G


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## ykurtz (Mar 7, 2007)

gman-17 said:


> My dark brown Shell Cordovan Strands!


Very nice!


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## NukeMeSlowly (Jul 28, 2005)

gman-17 said:


> ksinc,
> 
> Thanks very much for the compliments on the jacket. BTW - Holdast sold it to me. Thanks you Holdfast.
> 
> ...


Sorry if this has been mentioned already, but what was your total cost (i.e., base price plus special order charge) for the Strands in shell?


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## LD111134 (Dec 21, 2007)

Great commentary, G. Very comprehensive - I may steal some of your captions for my own photo album! :icon_smile_wink:


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## speedmaster (May 27, 2008)

Those shell Strands look GREAT! I love mine in brown calfskin, and can only imagine how sweet they must be in shell. Congrats! :icon_smile_big:


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## nogm1030 (Jun 18, 2009)

Stunning shoes! May I ask how much they cost?


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

I believe the Strands all in were $650. I think if you look around and compare other models of shell cordovan shoes in this style you will see they compare quite nicely.


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## chuckie50 (Apr 16, 2008)

Beautiful shoes Gman-17. Wear them in good health.

As an aside I thought AE was phasing out the black insoles which many of us find less comfortable than the tan insoles.


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## flatline (Dec 22, 2008)

chuckie50 said:


> As an aside I thought AE was phasing out the black insoles which many of us find less comfortable than the tan insoles.


Last _I _had heard, the black insoles were here to stay, but are in fact identical to the tan version, except of course in coloration.


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## Wrenkin (May 4, 2008)

I thought they kept the colour, but made substantive changes.


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## Hoof (Feb 14, 2007)

Strands look great. I wish my old corrected grain looked like yours. Shell definately looks great. I really love the photo essay. I wish I lived closer and could have attended the tour. I am a sucker for this kind of stuff. Congrats G-man on a great pair of shoes and thanks again for sharing with us.


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## dwebber18 (Jun 5, 2008)

This really was fantastic. I've already gotten my wife to read through the thread so she can start saving for my Christmas next year, haha. I too wish I lived closer and could have attended, I love factory tours of things I find interesting. Always nice to put a face with the footwear!


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## AllenEdmondsCEO (Mar 17, 2009)

*The Cordovan Strand Tour*

Gerard, Lou and Josh - It was absolutely terrific to have you visit us. In addition to the fun of having enthusiasts around to validate our own passion for what we do, your insights into our new styles for 2010 and our product development generally were invaluable. We'll get you involved even earlier in the process for 2011.

Gman, thanks so much for another extremely well done travelblog. The extra photos this time are incredible (thanks also to Lou for his contributions). I especially like one with the steam rising up from the newly-applied hot cork.

To answer questions raised above: The last of the blucher boot (the re-birth of the Bayfield) is the 511. The Fifth Street is on the 5 last, the same as the Fifth Avenue. The Fall line is usually available sometime in the late summer, although we will move some styles forward this year in response to your requests. You all are the opinion-leaders, so we'd love to see them on your feet as soon as possible!

Other answers: It would be difficult to recraft a 270 welted shoe into a 360 welted shoe. I'm out of the office for vacation this week, so I don't know for certain what our shoemakers would say about that. There's a ribbing on the underside of the footbed to which we attach the welt. In the 270, that ribbing only goes, understandably, partway around the shoe. When we recraft, we tear the old shoe apart down to that ribbing, but putting an extension onto it to bring it to 360 may be problematic. If we can do it with the requisite consistent quality, we'd be happy to.

In terms of the widths we'll offer in the new shoes, it depends on the last used. Our 000 lasted shoes are offered in B,D, E, EEE for example - we don't have that newer last with the squarer toe in narrower A widths. The 5 last shoes will have the whole range of widths available, though.

Happy and Healthy New Year to all of our friends and supporters in this Ask Andy community. We feel very fortunate to have your input as well as your business and friendship.

Warm regards,
Paul

P.S. Gman - Fantastic-looking shoes you have there!


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## AllenEdmondsCEO (Mar 17, 2009)

*Forgot about the Black Insoles*

Sorry, I forgot to answer the question about the black insoles.

They are indeed made the same way and of the same material as our older light brown version. When we first brought the black version out three years ago, they were in fact a bit different, but the previous management team reacted quickly to customer input and switched to the exact same product, only in black.

The still-relatively new management team doesn't like the look of the black footbeds, however. We think it clashes with the brown lining, among other things, and detracts from the classic look we want in the shoes. We're in the process of working with our supplier to switch back to brown, this time just a bit darker brown to be more like our lining color.

You'll note in the pictures above of new products that we're also working with our sole-supplier on the color of our soles to darken them up a bit and add more luster to the bottom of the shoe. While darker soles will make is more difficult to read "HELP ME!" on the bottom of a young groom's Park Avenues while he's kneeling at the altar, (an allegedly true story ... his soon-to-be in-laws were not amused), we think the richer look will still be a worthy change.

I welcome any counsel on either of these proposed changes. We won't move too quickly because we want to make sure the only change is color and not feel, comfort, flexibility, functionality or full-AE longevity.

Paul


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## rbstc123 (Jun 13, 2007)

Beautiful shoes G-man! It's also always a pleasure to hear directly from Paul. Paul is the real deal. Very sincere and a pleasure to work with as well. AE is definitely in good hands and headed in a great direction. Can't wait for the boots to hit the market! Which boot was in Titanic again? Was it pictured in any above post?


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## mysharona (Nov 4, 2008)

Fantastic, Gerard. And the Glen Plaid looks great too!


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## AllenEdmondsCEO (Mar 17, 2009)

rbstc123 said:


> Which boot was in Titanic again? Was it pictured in any above post?


Thanks for the kind comments, Robert. It was the Bayfield in Titanic, the blucher with the hooks for the laces. The passengers down below wore them. The upper crust was wearing tuxes with our tux shoes and our Park Avenues, I'm told.

I hope you're having good Holidays!
Paul


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

Nephew,
the shells look outstanding! enjoy wearing. thank you for sharing your experience


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## rbstc123 (Jun 13, 2007)

AllenEdmondsCEO said:


> Thanks for the kind comments, Robert. It was the Bayfield in Titanic, the blucher with the hooks for the laces. The passengers down below wore them. The upper crust was wearing tuxes with our tux shoes and our Park Avenues, I'm told.
> 
> I hope you're having good Holidays!
> Paul


Thanks Paul. That is a very attractive boot as are all the others. Again, I can't wait to see these hit the shelves. Thanks for the holiday wishes. I send the same wishes to you and your family.


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## srivats (Jul 29, 2008)

Gerard, thanks a ton for sharing your experience, and also for taking the time to take and share these excellent photos. 

The shell cordo strands looks brilliant and seems like they fit you perfectly. Wear them in good health!

Happy new year to all.


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## harland (Oct 13, 2008)

Wow, what a great thread. The Strands look beautiful and it's especially exciting to get a peek at the new lineup. Congrats gman!


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## Geoff Gander (Apr 4, 2007)

gman-17 said:


>


First - thank you very much, guys, for posting these photos; and thanks to the people at AE for being so open towards your customers.

Second - those photos of your Strands are lovely! I never imagined that the colour and pattern would work so well to produce such a nice pair of shoes. I still plan on ordering a pair of Fifth Streets, but now I'm seriously considering having my one pair of cordovans be the Strands.


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

AllenEdmondsCEO said:


> Gerard, Lou and Josh - It was absolutely terrific to have you visit us. In addition to the fun of having enthusiasts around to validate our own passion for what we do, your insights into our new styles for 2010 and our product development generally were invaluable. We'll get you involved even earlier in the process for 2011.
> 
> Gman, thanks so much for another extremely well done travelblog. The extra photos this time are incredible (thanks also to Lou for his contributions). I especially like one with the steam rising up from the newly-applied hot cork.
> 
> ...


Hi, Mr. Grangaard (or can I call you Paul?). It is awesome to see you back on AAAC.

I sent you a personal message (or PM for short) a few days ago with questions regarding special make up AE shoes (more specifically, questions regarding the Fifth Avenues-or FAs for short and Park Avenues-or PAs for short specially made up).

My cell phone number, email address real name (my last name sort of rhymes with Darnell and not Laurel like some people pronounce it) and are in that MP that I sent to you, in the event that you choose to contact me via those methods. Please check it out and reply as soon as you get the chance? Thank you dearly and sincerely in advance! 

BTW, I think I spelled your last name wrong in the PM. If I did, I apologize in advance.


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## DCLawyer68 (Jun 1, 2009)

gman-17 said:


> I believe the Strands all in were $650. I think if you look around and compare other models of shell cordovan shoes in this style you will see they compare quite nicely.


gman,

Those shoes look worth every cent! Thanks so much for all the work it took to share this with us.


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## DCLawyer68 (Jun 1, 2009)

gman-17 said:


>


Boy, that shoe looks much nicer here than on their website. I'll need to see this in the store.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

AllenEdmondsCEO said:


> Gerard, Lou and Josh - It was absolutely terrific to have you visit us. In addition to the fun of having enthusiasts around to validate our own passion for what we do, your insights into our new styles for 2010 and our product development generally were invaluable. We'll get you involved even earlier in the process for 2011.
> 
> Gman, thanks so much for another extremely well done travelblog. The extra photos this time are incredible (thanks also to Lou for his contributions). I especially like one with the steam rising up from the newly-applied hot cork.
> 
> ...


Paul,

Thanks for the compliments. On the shoes, I personally think you need your own pair. BTW, no one here pointed out the suit you had on that day--very sharp. I would suggest pairing that with a pair of Shell Cordovan Strands, but that just me.

Looking forward to 2010 and another succesful year for you and your team.

Cheers,

G


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## ksinc (May 30, 2005)

gman,

Would it be a possible, and not a huge imposition, for you to take a pic of your #6s side-by-side with an AE version of #8? So, the same light, etc. to compare the shades ...

I realize your maxed-out and your cult hero status can only go up a little bit further anyway.

Thanks and/or apologies in advance ... KSINC :icon_smile_wink:


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

ksinc said:


> gman,
> 
> Would it be a possible, and not a huge imposition, for you to take a pic of your #6s side-by-side with an AE version of #8? So, the same light, etc. to compare the shades ...
> 
> ...


No worries happy to help. I will post one of my pair of MacNeils next to the Strands a little later today.


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## norcal_1 (Jul 24, 2007)

xxxxxxxxxxxxx


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## gnatty8 (Nov 7, 2006)

Nice to see fine shoes still made in the U.S. Although I am not a huge fan of AE (I have 3 pairs, so about 4% of my shoe wardrobe, lol), I will definitely be buying those balmoral boots, but only if Brenda gets to be my customer service rep also, lol..


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## ksinc (May 30, 2005)

Mr. G,

Please excuse what is a probably a stupid question, but are the black insoles upgradeable to the non-black ones when they are available from your supplier? Would replacing them require the recrafting service or something far less severe? 

Regarding belts: As a rule I always bought a pair of shoes and new matching shoe trees. If it was a new color or style to me, I would buy polish and a basic dress belt w/ a gold buckle; or the matching belt. As you re-adjust your belt product line, please consider this purchase scenario. 

Thank You for the $255 Christmas promotion on FAs. And I can report that the Millenia Mall store looks much better kept (clean and tidy) than in recent years (and it seemed busier than I have ever seen it before.) Thank you, once again, for saving & improving our favorite, and American, shoe company!

Thanks, KSINC.


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## Hanzo (Sep 9, 2009)

*A suggestion*

Gentlemen,

We are indeed fortunate to have Paul, the CEO of Allen Edmonds, here on the site to answer questions and such. That being said, lets try to remember that he IS the CEO and has a business to run. Allen Edmonds employs a fantastic staff of sales and customer service associates to can answer questions on what is and is not available. And I'm sure that any question they are not able to answer could be run up chain. I, for one, would hate to see anyones questions go unanswered and I'm sure that Paul is a busy man. Perhaps we could redirect some of these questions?


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

ksinc said:


> gman,
> 
> Would it be a possible, and not a huge imposition, for you to take a pic of your #6s side-by-side with an AE version of #8? So, the same light, etc. to compare the shades ...
> 
> ...


K,

This was not nearly as easy as I thought it was going to be. I cannot get the light right to properly show the difference in color. Here is my best shot:

Brown Strands on the Left and Burgundy MacNeils on the right.










Top MacNeil bottom Strand









Left Strand and Right Merlot McAllister










(You're probably asking why didn't I center this shot--it was a warmup but ended up being the best in terms of demonstrating contrast.)

Unfortunately, I don't have the camera or the lighting to properly demonstrate the contrast. In "real life" there is substantially greater contrast between the shoes.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

Hanzo said:


> Gentlemen,
> 
> We are indeed fortunate to have Paul, the CEO of Allen Edmonds, here on the site to answer questions and such. That being said, lets try to remember that he IS the CEO and has a business to run. Allen Edmonds employs a fantastic staff of sales and customer service associates to can answer questions on what is and is not available. And I'm sure that any question they are not able to answer could be run up chain. I, for one, would hate to see anyones questions go unanswered and I'm sure that Paul is a busy man. Perhaps we could redirect some of these questions?


Thanks. I was going to post the same thing. I like Paul a great deal and consider him a friend today. That said, if I had a problem, or a wish, I would talk with Brenda or one of the other customer service reps. They are well trained, highly motivated to deliver first rate service and enjoy working with their customers.


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## ksinc (May 30, 2005)

gman-17 said:


> K,
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's PERFECT! You are elevated from 'cult hero' to 'saint.' :icon_smile: Thank you so very much for taking time and effort to do this.

FWIW, If I put brown burnished calf next to merlot it's hard to see much difference too sometimes. I was wondering if I was spinning my wheels so-to-speak.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

ksinc said:


> That's PERFECT! You are elevated from 'cult hero' to 'saint.' :icon_smile: Thank you so very much for taking time and effort to do this.
> 
> FWIW, If I put brown burnished calf next to merlot it's hard to see much difference too sometimes. I was wondering if I was spinning my wheels so-to-speak.


No worries. BTW I like "cult hero" better significantly less distance if you fall. :icon_smile_big:

You can see a significant difference between the two colors in real life. The biggest differrence is the lack of a "purple" hue to the browns. I am not sure everyone will get that-you can see that in certain light.


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## Francisco D'Anconia (Apr 18, 2007)

*No. 6 vs. No. 8 Color Contract Photos*



gman-17 said:


> No worries. BTW I like "cult hero" better significantly less distance if you fall. :icon_smile_big:
> 
> You can see a significant difference between the two colors in real life. The biggest differrence is the lack of a "purple" hue to the browns. I am not sure everyone will get that-you can see that in certain light.


G, I think the kelvin temperature of the light from the flash is obscuring the purple hue in the color of your _MacNeils_. let's get together this weekend. I'll bring the photographic gear we'll need to shoot your _Strands_ and _MacNeils_ together in natural light. That should bring out the difference and contract in between the colors of the No. 6 SC Strands and No. 8 SC _MacNeils_.


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## Green3 (Apr 8, 2008)

Great shoes Gman.

To my eye, the AE cordovans have a nicer look than Alden. They look a little less dyed, and a little more textured. This is based on comparing my own shoes, not the photos.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

Francisco D'Anconia said:


> G, I think the kelvin temperature of the light from the flash is obscuring the purple hue in the color of your _MacNeils_. let's get together this weekend. I'll bring the photographic gear we'll need to shoot your _Strands_ and _MacNeils_ together in natural light. That should bring out the difference and contract in between the colors of the No. 6 SC Strands and No. 8 SC _MacNeils_.


Sounds great, sorry I will miss you this eve.


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## Francisco D'Anconia (Apr 18, 2007)

gman-17 said:


> Sounds great, sorry I will miss you this eve.


We'll miss you here too. They'll still be room for you here once all your offspring spring off.

Enough of this. Let keep this thread on topic and keep talking about your new _Strands_ and the AE factory.


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## laufer (Feb 20, 2008)

Hanzo said:


> Gentlemen,
> 
> We are indeed fortunate to have Paul, the CEO of Allen Edmonds, here on the site to answer questions and such. That being said, lets try to remember that he IS the CEO and has a business to run. Allen Edmonds employs a fantastic staff of sales and customer service associates to can answer questions on what is and is not available. And I'm sure that any question they are not able to answer could be run up chain. I, for one, would hate to see anyones questions go unanswered and I'm sure that Paul is a busy man. Perhaps we could redirect some of these questions?


Amen. Come on folks, a special order is only $100 more and any AE store will be able to do that for you.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

laufer said:


> Amen. Come man folks a special order is only $100 more and any AE store will be able to do that for you.


Personally I would go directly to the factory CS people. My experience has been very good. I will also tell you, I have had great experience at the Stores and Shoe Banks.


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## Nick V (May 8, 2007)

Great looking shoe gman. Wear them in good health!
I especially like the idea that AE will be using more key heels. They are more expensive to produce but, on traditional high-grades it's the way to go.


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## IotaNet (Jun 28, 2009)

Mattdeckard said:


>


As long as these will come in a size 15, you can sign me up!!!


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## Beau Nash (Apr 6, 2008)

Does anyone know if the 270 welt will be on all models or just on the new ones? I am trying to decide whether to wait on a pair of Weybridge in brown.


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## LD111134 (Dec 21, 2007)

Beau Nash said:


> Does anyone know if the 270 welt will be on all models or just on the new ones? I am trying to decide whether to wait on a pair of Weybridge in brown.


*Some* of the new models will feature a 270 degree welt. Most models, including the Weybridge, will continue to feature AE's traditional 360 degree welting.


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## upnorth (Jun 18, 2007)

Does AE offer the service of installing metal toe taps for shoes ordered via the website?


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

LD111134 said:


> *Some* of the new models will feature a 270 degree welt. Most models, including the Weybridge, will continue to feature AE's traditional 360 degree welting.


Will the Fifth Avenue, Grayson (which I proudly own ready made in black custom calfskin for 50 months now ) and Park Avenue get the new 270 welt or stick with the 360 degree welt?


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

Audi S5 TC said:


> Will the Fifth Avenue, Grayson (which I proudly own ready made in black custom calfskin for 50 months now ) and Park Avenue get the new 270 welt or stick with the 360 degree welt?


My understandng from out meeting, and I am sure that Paul or Colin can step in and correct me, is that only the new line will be 270 welted. I believe, they are not looking to eliminate the 360 welting--it is something many of us like--but they want to expand their line (particularly in the slip on category) to include 270 welted shoes. So the 5th ave and the Grayson will remain 360.


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## AllenEdmondsCEO (Mar 17, 2009)

*Versatility is key*



gman-17 said:


> My understandng from out meeting, and I am sure that Paul or Colin can step in and correct me, is that only the new line will be 270 welted. I believe, they are not looking to eliminate the 360 welting--it is something many of us like--but they want to expand their line (particularly in the slip on category) to include 270 welted shoes. So the 5th ave and the Grayson will remain 360.


Greetings all,

We have no intention to change current 360 welted shoes to 270, and we'll be introducing both new 360 welts and new 270 welts throughout 2010. Allen Edmonds used to only offer 360 welts, but we've added 270 construction to our arsenal starting with the introduction of the Executive Collection mid-2009. Back when 270 welts were held together with a steel shank, there was a major comfort advantage to the 360 welt construction. However, we're now able to use a flexible fiberglass shank in our 270 welts, so we now choose the heel construction that best fits the styling objective we're looking to achieve. Some shoes just look better with 360 and others with 270.

Thanks for the question and the chance to clarify.

Here wishing us all a great start to a better new year this week...

Paul


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## comrade (May 26, 2005)

gman-17 said:


> For those among us that like to wear denim, Allen Edmonds has produced a distressed Chelsea boot.


Looks like it was made in a sheltered workshop.


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## comrade (May 26, 2005)

gman-17 said:


> More shoes from the new collection:
> 
> New Balmoral.
> 
> ...


Except for the last grain shoe, this collection is hideous. A E has been "updating"
their shoes for well over a decade with IMHO disastrous results. The new loafers
shown earlier are OK.

I really don't get it. Obviously, the shoes sell. But AE seems to be incapable
of evolving from its traditional roots without producing season after season
of perforated monstrosities. Alden on the other hand, which to me are a bit on
the clunky side, nevertheless is true its own tradition without such digressions.
Although, frankly Alden would do well to imitate Vass a little.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

comrade said:


> Except for the last grain shoe, this collection is hideous. A E has been "updating"
> their shoes for well over a decade with IMHO disastrous results. The new loafers
> shown earlier are OK.
> 
> ...


Interesting perspective. I think AE has done a great job of innovating and remaining true to their roots. Vass has some interesting styles, but obviously, its not for everyone.


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## gnatty8 (Nov 7, 2006)

comrade said:


> Except for the last grain shoe, *this collection is hideous*. A E has been "updating"
> their shoes for well over a decade with IMHO disastrous results. The new loafers
> shown earlier are OK.
> 
> ...


I'm not quite sure I'd go that far personally, but you do have me wondering where the market is for the bicycle toe and elaborately punched shoes. If one assumes AE is serving a market, then that market must also exist, unless of course, the collections remain unsold year after year, which I would assume they do not. I must say, I did see some very nice models earlier in this thread, including loafers that I normally shy away from.


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## ksinc (May 30, 2005)

No comment on the perfed, whole-cuts ... however, the old bicycle toe was one of the good sellers; I think - from when they reported them (maybe they still do). Was it the Hillcrest?


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## Hanzo (Sep 9, 2009)

Well, personally, the perfed whole cuts are my favorite. Different strokes for different folks.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

I am not that partial to the Hillcrest, but I really enjoy the styling of the Wendell. Many of the shoes beloved by folks here, even some from the most celebrated makers, cause me to scratch my head--I just figure I am not their audience. :icon_smile_wink: I think Pierre Corthay makes a fantastic looking shoe and have spent quite a bit of time ogling them, but I just don't udnerstand the need for green and red shoes. That said, someone obviously does.


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## Wisco (Dec 3, 2009)

The Hillcrest is one of my favorite AE shoes with slacks and a jacket. I save the Park Avenues for suits. The Hillcrest is on the very comfortable #4 last that has a great wide toe box, yet has enough taper to distinguish it from every other department store square-toed shoe. The bicycle-toe stitching adds a little detail to elongate the visual, softening the clunkyness of the sole. 

Have my black Hillcrests on my feet below my desk today with light grey flannels, a blue broadcloth shirt, dark orange/burgundy tie and a blazer. 

Ciao,

Wisco


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## laufer (Feb 20, 2008)

It looks like Boston and Augusta are available for sale from Jos A Bank.

https://www.josbank.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SubCategory_11001_10050_11561

AE website does not list these two models as of today.


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## Dr. François (Sep 14, 2008)

anonymouz said:


> Those blucher boots look really similar to my Bayfields...


anonymouz,
Your burgundy blucher boots are exactly what I'm looking for. Where'd you get them? Are they an older AE boot?

I'm guessing AE will offer the new blucher boot in black and brown.


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## imainish (May 31, 2006)

AllenEdmondsCEO said:


> Greetings all,
> 
> We have no intention to change current 360 welted shoes to 270, and we'll be introducing both new 360 welts and new 270 welts throughout 2010. Allen Edmonds used to only offer 360 welts, but we've added 270 construction to our arsenal starting with the introduction of the Executive Collection mid-2009. Back when 270 welts were held together with a steel shank, there was a major comfort advantage to the 360 welt construction. However, we're now able to use a flexible fiberglass shank in our 270 welts, so we now choose the heel construction that best fits the styling objective we're looking to achieve. Some shoes just look better with 360 and others with 270.
> 
> ...


Paul,

I must commend you on the new line. The U throat, the monk strap, and the bal boot are all must haves for me....beautiful designs on a sharp looking last. Love the combo heel and please make more shoes in shell cordovan. So great to see a company listening to their customers and coming through with a superb product.

Keep it up!


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## srivats (Jul 29, 2008)

I just bought a pair of the new AE 5th street bal boots (AE samples in burgundy shell) from member rebel222. I think they look really cool. I'll post a detailed review when I get them early next week. From the looks of it, I think AE has a winner. For those who don't know, these are the #5 last, same as park avenues.


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## justicepool (Apr 1, 2010)

Glad I saw this thread. I love those boots. I'm going to order a pair now!
:icon_smile:


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## justicepool (Apr 1, 2010)

Well, I cannot seem to locate these boots on any web site. Have they been formally released?


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## srivats (Jul 29, 2008)

justicepool said:


> Well, I cannot seem to locate these boots on any web site. Have they been formally released?


No, not yet ... they will come out soon though!


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## Odd I/O (Apr 4, 2009)

srivats said:


> I just bought a pair of the new AE 5th street bal boots (AE samples in burgundy shell) from member rebel222. I think they look really cool. I'll post a detailed review when I get them early next week. From the looks of it, I think AE has a winner. For those who don't know, these are the #5 last, same as park avenues.


How much did you pay for those? Do you know what the MSRP is suppose to be?

And does anyone know when the next Allen Edmonds sale is? :icon_smile_big:


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## justicepool (Apr 1, 2010)

I thought that I read they would be $325 or $525 for the cordovan pair.


I sent an email to AE to check on the release date. I'll order a pair as soon as they are available. =)


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## Nick V (May 8, 2007)

Seven eyelets. Bravo to AE. Great looking boot. I'm sure there's more to come.


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## peterc (Oct 25, 2007)

No Sanford, though. Despite promises, it is NOT in the Fall 2010 line up. I am quite disappointed. Looks like the only real alternative for a Blucher style oxford at the $300.00 price point is the Loake Hilton.


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## GoToEleven (May 19, 2010)

*New AEs coming my way!*

I am pleased to report that I am now awaiting receipt of a new pair of AE Strands in Walnut, a perfect match for the AE Walnut belt I purchased earlier this year in anticipation of adding these fine shoes to my AE collection. Kudos to AE for including them in their last lineup.


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## justicepool (Apr 1, 2010)

Has the Fall lineup been released? I did not see the new boots on their web site.


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## dwebber18 (Jun 5, 2008)

Its still summer goober. Or from Bergdorf's its still pre-fall, haha. BTW those 5th St boots are gorgeous. I hate paying full retail for stuff but I would be very tempted to for those.


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## andy b. (Mar 18, 2010)

I don't care about the Fall Collection, all I want to know is if they are going to re-introduce the Strawfut for Spring. 

Andy B.


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## expressingmyself (Jun 16, 2010)

Wow, those 5th St. Boots are amazing. Thanks for sharing the details of your journey!


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## justicepool (Apr 1, 2010)

I'm anxiously awaiting the 5th street boots!


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Mr CEO,

Any chance of the Walden being available in a brown colour?

Like the one below...

https://img84.imageshack.us/i/bw7cutwcwkkgrhqqokioewq.jpg/


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## justicepool (Apr 1, 2010)

Don't see the 5th street boot in the fall lineup pictures posted thus far, I hope it makes it into the 2010 lineup.


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## Kurt N (Feb 11, 2009)

Sorry to break this to you.

https://askandyaboutclothes.com/com...balmoral-boot-but-CEO-speaks-ups-and-steps-up


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## Mazderati (Nov 28, 2010)

Francisco D'Anconia said:


> G, I think the kelvin temperature of the light from the flash is obscuring the purple hue in the color of your _MacNeils_. let's get together this weekend. I'll bring the photographic gear we'll need to shoot your _Strands_ and _MacNeils_ together in natural light. That should bring out the difference and contract in between the colors of the No. 6 SC Strands and No. 8 SC _MacNeils_.


Bring this back from the dead. Anything come of this meeting?


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