# Lucchese Boots



## Packard (Apr 24, 2009)

Lucchese Boots is the Cadillac of western boot makers. They make 3 basic lines: One for working cowboys, one for city slickers who want to look like cowboys, and their "Classic" line which features exotic leathers, their most experienced craftsmen and customized lasts.

The "Classic" line is available in more pedestrian leathers too, such as buffalo, cow skin, veal skin, and goat skins. You can choose your last (which they call "toe style") and the type and size of the heel. In these more common leathers the boots cost about $400.00 to $600.00.

Considering the level of craftsmanship and the custom features these end up being significantly cheaper than comparable quality shoes.

Why is there so much discrepancy in pricing?

(For the record, it is pronounced: "Lou-*kay*-See")


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## 127.72 MHz (Feb 16, 2007)

I have no answer for you in terms of the pricing,...

I did however commission a pair of custom made Lucchese boots a couple of years ago and I could not be more satisfied.

They went to the trouble of writing that my boots were made for me in beautiful calligraphy in the inside aspect of both boots.

The boots are a real treasure to me and dealing with Lucchese was smooth as silk.


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## DownByTheRiverSide (Oct 25, 2009)

"..... I did however commission a pair of custom made Lucchese boots a couple of years ago and I could not be more satisfied."


I am kind of a boot nerd I guess, I have about 15 or so pairs, and by far my favorites are the Lucchese, which comprise over half of the total.


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## 127.72 MHz (Feb 16, 2007)

[FONT=Book Antiqua said:


> I am kind of a boot nerd I guess, I have about 15 or so pairs, and by far my favorites are the Lucchese, which comprise over half of the total.[/font]


I'd wear your self appointed "Boot nerd" title with pride! The quality is so evident in Lucchese boots. I like the way they feel and the black cherry color of my custom Lucchese ropers *always* draws rave reviews.

I cannot recall ever wearing them where someone hasn't asked me where I got them and commented about how nice they look.

Do you know of any higher end shoes manufactures who will, free of additional charge, hand calligraphy your name on the leather while the shoe is in the production process just because I asked?:icon_smile_wink:

I wish more producers of higher end products in general realized how far little details like this go with a customer,....

It's good to hear from another fellow on Ask Andy who appreciates Lucchese.

Best wishes,


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## DownByTheRiverSide (Oct 25, 2009)

" .... my custom Lucchese ropers *always* draws rave reviews."

One of my favorite compliments was several years ago. I was involved with the Katrina Recovery here on the coast, and I had just made a presentation to a group of about 150 persons. Dressing for something like that can be tricky; you need to look nice, but also approachable. People who have just lost everything arent in the mood to appreciate others' prosperity. I dont remember the rest of what I wore, but I was wearing my favorite pair of Luccheses, probably at least 20 years old now, Black Cherry Calf, with a small stylized inset of croc on top of the foot. They are well-worn and far from perfect, but they are always perfectly shined, etc.

After the presentation probably 12-15 people came up seeking answers to questions about some rather serious matters. Each question seemed more pressing than the previous one. The last person to speak with me told me he didnt have a question, he just wanted to say what a beautiful pair of boots those were, and that it was obvious that they were old and well loved, and that he had been admiring them during the entire presentation. It was a nice compliment, and it added a bit of lightness to an otherwise "heavy" day.


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## smujd (Mar 18, 2008)

Lucchese makes great boots. Their "Black Cherry" is an amazing color which no one else seems to be able to replicate.

My favorites, though, are still my first pair of custom boots--from a little shop in Glen Rose, Texas.


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## drrac2 (Mar 25, 2006)

I have two pair, by far the best western boots I have ever purchased. Definitely worth the money IMHO .


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## arnaud (Apr 10, 2007)

127.72 MHz said:


> ...I cannot recall ever wearing them where someone hasn't asked me where I got them and commented about how nice they look.


...and chicks really seem to dig Lucchese ropers most of all.


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## PetroLandman (Apr 21, 2006)

I have only one pair of Luccheses among about six pairs, most generic and used for work. Over the past couple of years I have developed significant problems with my ankles, mostly the right one, that make wearing them pretty tough. I have contacted Lucchese and two other boot makers here (my favorite is Armando's in Raymondville, Texas, just south of the Norias pasture of the King Ranch)about making lace-up ropers from some good leathers. I will post when I hear back from them. I hope this works.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Lucchese puts out some wonderful boots. I have worn several pairs over the years and currently retain two pair in my collection, one pair from their Classics line and one from one of their two lesser lines. Both models are very comfortable on the foot and have proven to be reasonable durable. The most obvious differences seems to be in construction details, such as the use of lemon wood pegs vs brass brads and a leather insole vs a poron insole, etc, in the Classics vs the lesser line (sorry, can't remember the name and the wife's still sleeping, so I am not going up and root through my closets! ), respectively.


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## Packard (Apr 24, 2009)

Thanks for all the replies. We all know that Lucchese makes fine boots. 

My question really is why shoe makers offering semi-custom shoes using calf skin will charge $1,000.00 to $2,500.00 for their product, while Lucchese needs to charge only $400.00 to $600.00 for theirs.

Lucchese's quality is certainly on par with the best production shoemakers in the world, and their labor force cannot be third-world-low in cost. So why is it that shoe makers feel that they can charge so much more than the boot maker?


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^
My guess is that it ties in with the amount of hand work included in the production process...and almost certainly a 'premium brand' up-charge!


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## upnorth (Jun 18, 2007)

GVH has some for sale with a further 20% price reduction.


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## eyedoc2180 (Nov 19, 2006)

*Lucchese fan*

I got my first pair of Lucchese boots at Leddy's Ranch in Fort Worth. I paid up for them, but it was worth it, as the fitting and advice were wonderful. The boots themselves are black ropers in ranch hand leather. They feel like I am wearing a big pair of socks, and the compliments do come. My only mistake was getting them in black, which I enjoy but they are less versatile IMHO. The next pair will be ropers in cognac with the Fowler heel. I can't wait! Bill


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## Packard (Apr 24, 2009)

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> My guess is that it ties in with the amount of hand work included in the production process...and almost certainly a 'premium brand' up-charge!


I guess it is the "panache" up-charge.

C & J and Green offer most of their production shoes in a single width (not mine).

Lucchese has all widths from 7B to 15EEE, in 9 different lasts and 6 different heels (you get to choose which size, last and heel). They have a good deal of decorative stitching which in my mind is labor intensive much like adding eyelets on an oxford.

And by my estimation the quality is about equivalent.

So, as of now, I'm going with the "panache up-charge" as the reason for the higher prices on the C & Js and the Greens.


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## bluesman (Aug 17, 2009)

*Luccheses are great - 3 pairs of mine are over 20 years old.*

I have 5 pairs of Luccheses right now, (1 horse, 2 calf and 2 goat). I also love the black cherry goat for appearance. But it's not very durable - the surface peels when scraped, and it's hard to fill the whitish defect that results. My black cherry goat ropers peeled in the grooves that form across the toes after a few years of flexing, and they look quite worn (which doesn't stop me from wearing them).

Lucchese must buy a ton of hide every month - they make a lot of boots, so their prices reflect economies of scale. Their twisted cone last is perfect for my 12A foot, but I'm sure there are people for whom no Lucchese last will do the job. Custom lasted boots are a dream to wear, and I love all of mine (from Bo Riddle, Little Dave Viers and others). But Luccheses come very close. They used to do custom lasts, but they stopped almost 20 years ago (much to my sorrow).


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## Packard (Apr 24, 2009)

What are the merits of Buffalo vs. Calf vs. Goat skin for boots?

I have bull hide ropers and that leather is very, very durable, but does not polish up to a good shine--and it has a distinct pebble grain to it. The boots are nice, but I want something that polishes up to a nice shine.


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## DWFII (Nov 8, 2009)

I suspect that strange as it may seem, there's actually less knowledge about construction techniques among those who purchase shoes than among those who are boot aficionados. This tends to make the shoe buying public more susceptible to superficial aspects--such as the name brand, current trends in fashion, antiquing processes and so forth. In short, the shoe factories can charge more because willfully ignorant or unsuspecting customers will pay more.

Then again, boots tend to be, at base, aimed at the working man. Even the fanciest boot is, in the form and purpose, intended for riding horse and working cattle. The upshot is that the demand for high priced boots...comparable to high priced shoes...is not there. Not that boots can't be dressy or even elegant, they can, but work/casual is the essence of all boots.

Even bootmakers succumb to the expediencies of production and the short attention spans of the consumer, however. Witness the black cherry goat. From my perspective, one of the most sacred responsibilities of the boot or shoe maker is to choose leather that will suit the purpose and give service as long as possible. The deficiencies of goat are well known. To use it on as the vamp of a boot is gravely cynical and a real disservice to the customer.



Packard said:


> Thanks for all the replies. We all know that Lucchese makes fine boots.
> 
> My question really is why shoe makers offering semi-custom shoes using calf skin will charge $1,000.00 to $2,500.00 for their product, while Lucchese needs to charge only $400.00 to $600.00 for theirs.
> 
> Lucchese's quality is certainly on par with the best production shoemakers in the world, and their labor force cannot be third-world-low in cost. So why is it that shoe makers feel that they can charge so much more than the boot maker?


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## MisterScott (Dec 3, 2005)

I have close to 20 pairs of Lucchese boots. I wear a solid 10 1/2 D and they are all extremely comfortable and extremely consistent across their different models. I wear them with suits (BB and bespoke) and the black and dark cherry exotics look fantastic in that forum. I have never had an manufacturer defect issue with one of them but to keep them in top operating condition they must be conisistently conditioned. The only issue I have ever had is that one of my Australian Shepards (when he was a pup) got after one of the boots, but the damage was up high and was repaired. If you know the model number you want you can find decent deals.


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## bluesman (Aug 17, 2009)

*They all have their place.*



Packard said:


> What are the merits of Buffalo vs. Calf vs. Goat skin for boots?
> 
> I have bull hide ropers and that leather is very, very durable, but does not polish up to a good shine--and it has a distinct pebble grain to it. The boots are nice, but I want something that polishes up to a nice shine.


Bull hide is very tough and durable, and all I've seen have the pebble-grain finish you describe. I have a pair of dark brown bull shoulder Justins that simply don't quit. I've been wearing them in wet weather for about 15 years, and they're still beautiful. They polish well, but the pebble grain does limit the shine. I don't have any buffalo boots, but I have 2 pairs made of deer skin - they're softer and tougher than any of my calf boots but they don't polish up as brightly.

Although there are many varieties, grades and finishes in calf, in general it's a staple that polishes easily and well and lasts many years with reasonable care. The methods of tanning, coloring, finishing etc vary so it's hard to generalize beyond this. I have calf Luccheses in black and in brown. They take and hold a high polish for a fine dress or business look, and I frequently wear them to work.



DWFII said:


> The deficiencies of goat are well known. To use it on as the vamp of a boot is gravely cynical and a real disservice to the customer.


I don't entirely agree with this statement, but I understand it and I felt the same way the first few times I scraped a piece off the surface of my expensive and beautiful boots with a minor brush against an innocuous object. In black cherry goat, I have a pair of ropers and a 25+ year old pair of traditional westerns with Lucchese's old standard "mission" shaft. Both have the patina of use, although I still wear both regularly. They polish well, although they won't shine as much as calf can be made to do. The ropers are pretty beat, but I've worn them in all kinds of weather on all kinds of terrain. Both pairs have areas of partial peeling of the surface, which I repaired with a dab of cyanoacrylate glue unless the surface was fully torn off. I color the defects left by total avulsion with the closest felt tip marker I can find. I don't think I'll buy another pair of goats.

BTW, Lucchese does repair and rebuild their boots - but they won't touch a pair if there's any sign that they've been worked on by anyone else (except for replacement rubber heel lifts, I assume). And their service is expensive. I was quoted $200 for cleanup, soles and heels about 2 years ago on a pair of simple black westerns (horsehide, which along with kangaroo is a great material for durable boots that shine well and last forever). I let my dealer send them back, and believe it or not they were lost at the factory - so they made me a brand new pair identical to the ones I sent. Stuff happens, so I'm very happy with their service.


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## eyedoc2180 (Nov 19, 2006)

DWFII said:


> I suspect that strange as it may seem, there's actually less knowledge about construction techniques among those who purchase shoes than among those who are boot aficionados. This tends to make the shoe buying public more susceptible to superficial aspects--such as the name brand, current trends in fashion, antiquing processes and so forth. In short, the shoe factories can charge more because willfully ignorant or unsuspecting customers will pay more.
> 
> Then again, boots tend to be, at base, aimed at the working man. Even the fanciest boot is, in the form and purpose, intended for riding horse and working cattle. The upshot is that the demand for high priced boots...comparable to high priced shoes...is not there.


Most respectful disagreement mounts at this end. Visit Leddy's Ranch in Fort Worth, and you will see little evidence of the working man. Leddy's profit structure and products are clearly aimed at the Texas elite, as the sales person recited a long customer list of socialites, politicians, Texas Rangers (both the baseball and law enforcement kind), oil men, and wannabes like myself. I suspect that many of their finishes would not hold up to the rigors of riding. There is probably a huge regional variation in demand for quality boots.
I got quite an education from a great store upon my first purchase. Yes, I paid retail-plus. As an old expression goes, I didn't get what I paid for, but I got what I wanted. This has turned out to be my best shoe purchase, ever.


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## DWFII (Nov 8, 2009)

eyedoc2180 said:


> Most respectful disagreement mounts at this end. Visit Leddy's Ranch in Fort Worth, and you will see little evidence of the working man. Leddy's profit structure and products are clearly aimed at the Texas elite, as the sales person recited a long customer list of socialites, politicians, Texas Rangers (both the baseball and law enforcement kind), oil men, and wannabes like myself. I suspect that many of their finishes would not hold up to the rigors of riding. There is probably a huge regional variation in demand for quality boots.
> I got quite an education from a great store upon my first purchase. Yes, I paid retail-plus. As an old expression goes, I didn't get what I paid for, but I got what I wanted. This has turned out to be my best shoe purchase, ever.


I suspect you missed the main point here. I've been making boots for nearly four decades,,,from alligator, ostrich lizard, snake and inlaid as elaborately as anyone might want. And I've made boots that most people would never think to call work boots...or for the working man.

Yet underneath it all, every pair of boots is fundamentally a work boot. Simply because, no matter how fancy, or exotic the leathers, the cowboy boot is, still and after all, a form that sprung from footwear that was meant to be "ridden hard and put up wet." And in that form it is essentially unchanged.


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## 127.72 MHz (Feb 16, 2007)

Okay you're a bespoke boot and shoe maker and you've been doing this in excess of forty years. That's enough for me, I'll accept you as an expert.

That being said your comments about every pair of boots being "fundamentally a work boot," is a comment about the history and origin of all boots. Again this may be true in terms of the history of boots and your personal philosophy in making the custom made boots you construct from exotic leathers you've mentioned. I'm sure your boots are beautiful to behold and are built for the long haul.

So here's a little bit of background about the custom made pair of Lucchese boots I had made. I had them made in the black cherry goat color because my Father has a pair of Lucchese boots that are made of the goat leather you mentioned was inherently inferior. *Except* his were made by Lucchese *in 1963. *

No I'm not going to claim he wears them every day or even every week. But he has had Lucchese resole them *at least 10 times *over the past forty six years. I know for a fact that he hasn't worked in a pasture or walked ankle deep in mud in them but they have been rained and snowed on more times than anyone can count. I remember him wearing them almost every weekend in the woods of northern New Mexico at our cabin when I was a kid . In short, he didn't baby them.

I can tell you this, the inherently inferior goat leather you mentioned has done pretty good for the inferior product it is,...

As far as your statement of every boot being fundamentally a work boot. And that, "the cowboy boot is, still and after all, a form that sprung from footwear that was meant to be "ridden hard and put up wet." And in that form it is essentially unchanged." I believe my Dad's forty six year old pair of goat leather Lucchese cowboy boots have been ridden hard and put away wet and they seem to have stood up for the long haul. (Maybe as long as you've been making custom boots and shoes)

Lastly my Lucchese boots are goat and while I have to trust your opinion as an expert that this leather should not be used, at least in the vamp of a boot. Truthfully the custom features I requested from Lucchese were to essentially take one of their stock boots with a leather sole,...and to leave that leather sole on the boot, and put a half rubber soul *over *that leather sole. (as well as a few other little extras that are no big deal)

Well these boots cost me right at $500.- While no doubt the boots you make are clearly superior, they are also a fully hand made bespoke product,.....Do you think you could put together a boot that will be used as I have mentioned my Father has used his forty six year old Lucchese boots and look as good as the boots in the link I have attached for about $500.-?

Please do mention the ball park range price of the boots you make.

Best wishes,



DWFII said:


> I suspect you missed the main point here. I've been making boots for nearly four decades,,,from alligator, ostrich lizard, snake and inlaid as elaborately as anyone might want. And I've made boots that most people would never think to call work boots...or for the working man.
> 
> Yet underneath it all, every pair of boots is fundamentally a work boot. Simply because, no matter how fancy, or exotic the leathers, the cowboy boot is, still and after all, a form that sprung from footwear that was meant to be "ridden hard and put up wet." And in that form it is essentially unchanged.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

One pair of my Lucchese boots is constructed of what the manufacturer referred to as "Baby calf." It sports a high gloss finish and is very soft, very pliable and unfortunately, very susceptible to damage during wear. While I love the boots and find them to wear as comfortably as anything in my shoe rack, because of the delicate () nature of the leather, I find myself unable to wear them as often as I might like! What exactly is baby calf leather and why would Lucchese use such a fragile material in the crafting of a man;s boot?


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## bluesman (Aug 17, 2009)

eagle2250 said:


> What exactly is baby calf leather and why would Lucchese use such a fragile material in the crafting of a man;s boot?


I gather that baby calf skin is simply the skin of very young and small calves. It's marketed by hide weight, and a full hide is about 2/3 the weight of a "calf skin" hide. It seems to be a popular material for fine Italian shoes and handbags. I also assume (but don't know for sure) that it's more desirable because the babies haven't yet been able to damage their hides on branches, fences etc so it's free of blemishes. And because it's thinner and less dense than the skin of older calves, it probably lends itself well to tanning and dyeing.

There are at least two answers to your other question. Baby calf easily polishes to a high, smooth shine that is just not attainable on most other leathers (at least by me). So it looks great with a suit or other business / dress wear. Second, fragile boots may seem like an oxymoron, but they're common because people like them. Snakeskins are very popular, and I won't buy them again because the scales on some dry up and curl after a few years no matter how well I protect, clean and feed them. I had one pair of wonderfully soft suede boots that looked like I wore them in a rodeo after only a few wearings. I never did get them to look nice again, and they were useless for knocking around because the finish was so fragile.

I don't see any difference between baby calf boots and any other footwear made from the same material in terms of wearability. If I wouldn't wear shoes made of it under given circumstances, I also wouldn't wear boots made out of the same material under the same circumstances. I can't wear soft calf slipons in the woods or while gardening, but I don't think this negates their beauty, value or desirability.

Having said all that, I agree with you that fragile boots have limited utility and prospective purchasers should be told of the pitfalls. BTW, my black cherry goat Luccheses are both attractive and quite serviceable after years of wear - but the many small surface repairs they've needed because of peeling are visible if you look for them. And some of the inevitable folds over the toe/instep and at the ankle are lighter than the rest at their depth. They have the same patina that well worn shell cordovans get - some love it and some think it looks old and shabby. Chac a son gout.


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## 127.72 MHz (Feb 16, 2007)

Good point. And I should have added that I don't wear my goat Lucchese boots for working or everyday wear. (and my Father doesn't either) But again, my dad has worn them and had them resoled for 46 years,.....His don't look like new,...but should they at 46 years old?

I'm just having a little bit of trouble with goat being as "Delicate" as a couple of you guys are making it out to be.

Since pandora's box is open I'm not stating in the least that goat is good for work boots,...here's a nearly exact match for one pair of my work boots: (and they hold up as well as *anything anyone makes* custom, mtm, or bespoke)

https://www.westcoastshoe.com/wesco/ (Mine are the redwood color)

Who knows if Ask Andy will be around long enough to see how long my "Delicate" Lucchese black cherry goat boots will hold up,..



eagle2250 said:


> One pair of my Lucchese boots is constructed of what the manufacturer referred to as "Baby calf." It sports a high gloss finish and is very soft, very pliable and unfortunately, very susceptible to damage during wear. While I love the boots and find them to wear as comfortably as anything in my shoe rack, because of the delicate () nature of the leather, I find myself unable to wear them as often as I might like! What exactly is baby calf leather and why would Lucchese use such a fragile material in the crafting of a man;s boot?


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## bluesman (Aug 17, 2009)

*Maybe "delicate" isn't the right word.*

The problem is limited to surface hardness and peeling. Some leathers are tanned all the way through so a scuff doesn't show much and can be polished right out. But the color of the goat used by Lucchese (at least when mine were made, which is over 20 years ago for both pairs) seems to be confined to a thin and brittle surface layer easily cut and lifted by minor trauma. The leather itself is still as supple and solid as the day I got them - but the surface has multiple small areas where I had to glue down a tiny flap of surface or color a full thickness loss. Waxes and polishes don't fully color the light areas of damage. They're still quite wearable and serviceable, but the patina looks bad with a suit or other dress clothing.


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## chrstc (Jun 11, 2007)

127.72 MHz said:


> Since pandora's box is open I'm not stating in the least that goat is good for work boots,...here's a nearly exact match for one pair of my work boots: (and they hold up as well as *anything anyone makes* custom, mtm, or bespoke)


Hello,

Sorry but this is something that no-one in the world is likely to be able to comment upon properly unless they have a seriously huge shoe collection (in the region of several hundred thousand pairs):devil:

Couldn't resist...:icon_smile_big:

Chris.


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## 127.72 MHz (Feb 16, 2007)

chrstc said:


> Hello,
> 
> Sorry but this is something that no-one in the world is likely to be able to comment upon properly unless they have a seriously huge shoe collection (in the region of several hundred thousand pairs):devil:
> 
> ...


No offense taken Chris. I have to figure at this point that I'm among fellow addicts in terms of number so shoes one owns. For those who know me and have seen the setup I have to store and care for my shoes and boots it is on the extreme end.

I cannot say for sure how many pairs I own. But I do own about forty six pairs of Allen Edmonds alone. Maybe twenty pairs of Aldens. Then there's the the assorted Mephistos. (used to think they were higher end shoes),...(I even have a pair of these:
https://www.budapester.de/img_usa/dinkelacker.jpg

Churches, Barker, Crockett & Jones,...and I still want some Trickers boots but I am fairly narrow. I want some Loakes but again the narrow issue is difficult.

Boots,...Custom White's and West Coast, (Westco) Russels,...jeeze it goes on and on.

But I know for a fact that there are people right here on this site that make my collection look small and paltry by comparison.

Best wishes,


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## eyedoc2180 (Nov 19, 2006)

eagle2250 said:


> One pair of my Lucchese boots is constructed of what the manufacturer referred to as "Baby calf." It sports a high gloss finish and is very soft, very pliable and unfortunately, very susceptible to damage during wear. While I love the boots and find them to wear as comfortably as anything in my shoe rack, because of the delicate () nature of the leather, I find myself unable to wear them as often as I might like! What exactly is baby calf leather and why would Lucchese use such a fragile material in the crafting of a man;s boot?


No bootmaker here, and I was fearful of this very issue at purchase, i.e., comfortable leather that marred at every sneeze. Rather, the ranch hand leather holds up well, yet is extremely soft and comfortable. I have no idea how it differs from baby calf. The only possible drawback is its matte finish, which you can polish to a mild shine that does not hold for long. Still, to redundantly repeat, it is my best shoe, er, boot purchase ever.


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## eyedoc2180 (Nov 19, 2006)

DWFII said:


> I suspect you missed the main point here.


You are absolutely correct.


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## knezz (Nov 28, 2009)

*Any pictures of the boots?*



127.72 MHz said:


> I'd wear your self appointed "Boot nerd" title with pride! The quality is so evident in Lucchese boots. I like the way they feel and the black cherry color of my custom Lucchese ropers *always* draws rave reviews.
> 
> I cannot recall ever wearing them where someone hasn't asked me where I got them and commented about how nice they look.
> 
> ...


If possible, can you please post a picture? It would be greatly appreciated.


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## 127.72 MHz (Feb 16, 2007)

In spite of myself I'm not able to post any pictures. 
Sorry,


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