# My New Alfred Sargent Shoes



## clintonf

Hi all, this is a cross post from a different forum, but I'm kinda excited about receiving my new Alfred Sargent shoes.

These are apparently the direction that AS will be going in the near future.

I should be getting these next week (when I may post more pictures), but I was sent these pictures yesterday.

So, please indulge an old man. I'll let the pictures talk for me:























































Thank you

Clint


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## NukeMeSlowly

clintonf said:


> Hi all, this is a cross post from a different forum, but I'm kinda excited about receiving my new Alfred Sargent shoes.
> 
> These are apparently the direction that AS will be going in the near future.
> 
> I should be getting these next week (when I may post more pictures), but I was sent these pictures yesterday.
> 
> So, please indulge an old man. I'll let the pictures talk for me:
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> Clint


Ok, these are disturbingly beautiful.


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## Hobson

Very nice indeed.


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## gnatty8

Wow, those are very nice shoes. Can't wait to see more of these from AS..


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## Flanderian

clintonf said:


> Hi all, this is a cross post from a different forum, but I'm kinda excited about receiving my new Alfred Sargent shoes.
> 
> These are apparently the direction that AS will be going in the near future.
> 
> I should be getting these next week (when I may post more pictures), but I was sent these pictures yesterday.
> 
> So, please indulge an old man. I'll let the pictures talk for me:
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> Clint


Wow! I'd be excited too! Elegant medallion toe wholecuts. Particularly lovely leather. A narrow waist with fiddleback soles. And channeled and covered stitching on the soles. AS does seem to be ringing all the bells.

Thanks for the photos. Enjoy them!


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## kelliw

These are great. Nice purchase. They look very like G&G shoes. The sole is exactly the same.......


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## GreenPlastic

Those are some beautiful shoes. Amazing work on the soles, too. Congrats on the purchase.


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## jjl5000

Very nice indeed :aportnoy:


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## JibranK

kelliw said:


> These are great. Nice purchase. They look very like G&G shoes. The sole is exactly the same.......


Doesn't their factory make G&G anyway?


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## Groover

JibranK said:


> Doesn't their factory make G&G anyway?


No.

G&G rented space in the AS factory. Part of the agreement for using that space was to train AS staff on how to produce a high end shoe as pictured above.

G&G are now in their own factory as detailed on their website.


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## JibranK

Groover said:


> No.
> 
> G&G rented space in the AS factory. Part of the agreement for using that space was to train AS staff on how to produce a high end shoe as pictured above.
> 
> G&G are now in their own factory as detailed on their website.


Oh, okay. I didn't know that.


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## David Bresch

How much and where?


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## Groover

David Bresch said:


> How much and where?


See the shoe porn thread over on SF.

Starting at £400 for a MTO on any of the current premier range. Up to £500 for Oak Bark soles and Fiddled waists.

I'm Clint will provide more details once he has the shoes.


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## kelliw

I had heard MTO was around GBP 600...


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## speedmaster

Very nice, congrats!!!


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## clintonf

Hi everyone, I'm writing to inform you that I have the shoes in my posession!!

Without wishing to sound too child-like, the shoes are better than any picture could describe. I honestly think they are my best looking shoes (and I believe that I have good looking shoes).

The fit to me (only tried on once) was excellent. This may be because my feet are fairly average. I haven't gone out in them (I only got them on Monday and I need to plan a "special event" to wear them to), but from the feel of them, I don't think I'll be having any issues with comfort (I already own several AS Premier shoes, in any case).

*I am willing to take pictures, but in the spirit of getting a better understanding of shoes, I would be happy to take some "requests" for pictures to demonstrate the various construction or asthetic aspects of the shoes.

So, anything that you would like to see? Please bear in mind that it is a very overcast day in the UK, so I may have to use a flash.*

The next thing is to clear up the price: These shoes cost me £500.

The range will start from £400, but will not have the same level of detail on the sole (such as fiddleback oak bark soles, hand painted soles, antique-ing, leather stiffeners).

These are construction details of the shoes:

The leather was hand cut, the upper was machine stitched. 
The lining was fitted by hand as was the leather slip beading on the topline. 
The insoles was cut to fit the last (the standard Premier 99 F) fitting.
The upper was hand lasted. 
The stiffener at the back of the shoe is leather which was hand moulded to the shape of the last 
The toe puff is solvent. 
The welt was machine sewn as was the sole stitching into which was cut a slit into the sole to conceal the stitching (channelled) 
The fiddle back waist was built by hand. 
- The heel was built and brass pins were put in by hand. 
- The edge was machine trimmed, hand inked and waxed. 
- The sole was hand painted and hand bunked (the detailing around the edge) and hand crowed (the dots on the red V). 
- The upper was hand polished. 
- The pattern on the top of the sole was achieved by "wheeling" (done using a hand tool, naturally)

I didn't really intend to buy a shoe from AS, but as I was looking around and I found a contact email for AS and contacted their sales people: For anyone who are interested, the email is:

[email protected]

I received in my email:

_What we are now offering is to be able to change any Premier range stock shoe to a customers individual requirements this will allow the customer to choose his own :-Leather colour, Sole type for example Leather, Rubber. Sole treatment for example, Stitched aloft or channelled. Heel, for example 1/4 rubber, dovetail. These shoes would also include a tin of shoe polish, shoe bag, spare laces, shoe horn, the customers name on the lining and a cedarwood shoe tree. Price £400._

I was also told that it will take between 6-8 weeks to produce the shoes (which is fairly accurate). I didn't ask about different widths as I'm a "standard" width. I'm hopeful that they will do differing widths.

However, I dug a little deeper and I found that they could do more. I've always wanted fancy sole treatment so I asked them and they said "yes" :icon_smile_big:

I was also "told" to expect their new range soon. I don't know exactly when "soon" is, but if they are anything like these shoes, I'm getting excited. From what I understand, new lasts are going to be produced for this new range.

From what I gleaned, the new range will be a step from anything that they've done under their own name (Alfred Sargent).

I will say that these shoes are the most expensive shoes I've owned (the next most expensive being some Santoni's). I currently have shoes made by the following:

Alfred Sargent (Premier range - anything lower is horrible)
Barker (125th Anniversary Edition and Barker Black)
C & J Bench made (under the Peal & Co. branding)
Cheany Signature
Grenson Rose and Masterpiece (for John Lewis and Paul Stuart)
Santoni FAM Goodyear
Zegna Couture Limited Edition (Salvatore Ferragamo, I believe)

But these new AS shoes are the nicest, to my mind (and feet).

I'm already in discussions with AS for my next shoe!!

I'd be happy to answer any questions with my limited understanding. But, on the basis of my experience, I would thoroughly recommend AS for their product and, equally important, customer service. I actually felt like they wanted to help me, not that they're doing me a favour, by taking my money.

Cheers

Clint


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## misterdonuts

Lovely.

Does this mean that they are back from the dead?


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## clintonf

misterdonuts said:


> Lovely.
> 
> Does this mean that they are back from the dead?


Based upon the correspondance I've had with them, I would be thinking "Phoenix" and "Six Million Dollar Man".

In other words, "Yes".

I was initially concerned about what I'd get and whether I'd get anything. However, after a few "conversations" with my AS contact, I was quickly re-assured.

I hope this helps

Clint


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## misterdonuts

That is wonderful news, indeed.


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## Packard

I really like these shoes, but I don't see a domestic (USA) retailer for them. The domestic retailer I found does not carry that model.

Does anyone know where to buy this in the USA?


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## Flanderian

Packard said:


> I really like these shoes, but I don't see a domestic (USA) retailer for them. The domestic retailer I found does not carry that model.
> 
> Does anyone know where to buy this in the USA?


Not surprising. I think what the OP described in his earlier post today is essentially a MTO shoe. Finding a Sargent retailer in the U.S. (Other than Peal re-branded Sargents from Brooks.) is hard enough, finding one that handles MTO may well be impossible. Suggest you go to Sargent's website if interested, and e-mail them asking if any U.S. retailers handle the grade the OP describes in his post.


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## Packard

Flanderian said:


> Not surprising. I think what the OP described in his earlier post today is essentially a MTO shoe. Finding a Sargent retailer in the U.S. (Other than Peal re-branded Sargents from Brooks.) is hard enough, finding one that handles MTO may well be impossible. Suggest you got to Sargent's website if interested, and e-mail them asking if any U.S. retailers handle the grade the OP describes in his post.


I can find Sargent shoes, but not that model.

See:

The price is competitive with Alden and this style appeals to me. I'll write to Skyvalet and ask about this model. What is the model designation for this shoe?


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## upnorth

Is the 400 or 500 GBP price tag excluding VAT?


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## clintonf

Flanderian said:


> Not surprising. I think what the OP described in his earlier post today is essentially a MTO shoe. Finding a Sargent retailer in the U.S. (Other than Peal re-branded Sargents from Brooks.) is hard enough, finding one that handles MTO may well be impossible. Suggest you got to Sargent's website if interested, and e-mail them asking if any U.S. retailers handle the grade the OP describes in his post.


This is absolutely correct. I was given to believe that these shoes was actually made in the AS Factory (in Northamptonshire). They are indeed made to order. However, i'd be surprised if they wouldn't post the shoes to any parts of the World (for the money, I would imagine they would).

To be clear, there are no fittings involved. I didn't meet with anyone to have my feet measured. All I guess you'd have to do is find a style that you like, try it on in a shop of your choice (or get advice from this forum about the fit of the various makers), then contact AS direct (I did put their email in my post today).

I hope that this helps.

Clint

P.S. I'm still waiting for suggestions for any further photos. I've polished the shoes (again) and they are waiting to be flashed!!


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## clintonf

upnorth said:


> Is the 400 or 500 GBP price tag excluding VAT?


Inclusive of V.A.T.

Cheers

Clint


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## Packard

Alfred Sargent replied to my e-mail:

----- Original Message -----

Sirs,

I am interested in purchasing the Weymouth shoe in the USA. Who carries these shoes in the USA?

Regards,

Packard​Thank you for your enquiry. We send many pairs to the USA every week, we send free of charge via Royal Mail AirSure which will need a signature on receipt from your postman. This service usually takes between 4-10 days to arrive.

Please do not hesitate to contact me should you have any more queries.

Kind regards
Sarah


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## Leather man

The similarity to Gaziano and Girling is not coincidental. When Tony and Dean ( of G&G) first rented factory space with AS they designed a new ranges of top end shoes for AS. I knew these were in the pipe line but great to see them - they do look gorgeous!


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## Flanderian

Packard said:


> we send free of charge via Royal Mail AirSure which will need a signature on receipt from your postman.


I like that!

Wonder if they could be of any help in getting you the right UK size for that shoe?


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## rbstc123

Very nice shoes indeed.


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## Packard

Flanderian said:


> I like that!
> 
> Wonder if they could be of any help in getting you the right UK size for that shoe?


Flanderian,

Not only will they help, the cost is lower if shipped out of the UK than it is in the UK. Visit their website to see.

I did the conversion and the cost in dollars for that shoe is just over $400.00. There are currency calculators on-line and you can check yourself for an exact conversion.

Here is the response to my query on credit cards and sizing:

Hello

Thank you for your enquiry. We charge the customers visa card on the day the shoes are dispatched. We charge in Pounds and it will be your bank who decides on the exchange rate on the day the transaction takes place. If you wish to take advantage of exchange rates we can take the money at an earlier date.

With regards to sizing - the English lasts as a rule come up half a size smaller than the American lasts. Therefore if you take an 8.5E in American last we would recommend an 8E in Crockett and Jones.

Please do not hesitate to ask should you have any further questions.

Kind regards

Sarah


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## Clark29

Packard said:


> Flanderian,
> 
> Not only will they help, the cost is lower if shipped out of the UK than it is in the UK. Visit their website to see.
> 
> I did the conversion and the cost in dollars for that shoe is just over $400.00. There are currency calculators on-line and you can check yourself for an exact conversion.
> 
> Here is the response to my query on credit cards and sizing:
> 
> Hello
> 
> With regards to sizing - the English lasts as a rule come up half a size smaller than the American lasts. Therefore if you take an 8.5E in American last we would recommend an 8E in Crockett and Jones.
> 
> Please do not hesitate to ask should you have any further questions.
> 
> 
> Sarah


 Did you really enquire AS? Because they answer about C&J i guess they relay your e-mail to Pediwear or something similar (aren't Weymouth a C&J wholecut shoe?). /C


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## clintonf

Clark29 said:


> Did you really enquire AS? Because they answer about C&J i guess they relay your e-mail to Pediwear or something similar (aren't Weymouth a C&J wholecut shoe?). /C


+1. Did you use the email address that I included in this thread?

[email protected]

From all accounts, it doesn't look as if you've contacted AS.

I've been in contact with a representative today and I enquired about the "Weymouth" and I was told that they don't have that style, nor a Sales Representative named Sarah.

On another topic, I'm in discussion with them about my next pair of shoes.

I want to try out some antiquing and possibly a different (but subtle) colour.

I'm thinking of a Deep Blue (nearly black) or a Dark Green with antiquing on This shoe.

What do people think?

Thanks

Clint


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## Packard

Clark29 said:


> Did you really enquire AS? Because they answer about C&J i guess they relay your e-mail to Pediwear or something similar (aren't Weymouth a C&J wholecut shoe?). /C


I just looked back at the origin of the e-mails. You can contact them yourself. I wrote originally to the contact e-mail address that they list on their website.

Sarah wrote.

sarah dudley <[email protected]>

Their website: https://www.shoesnorthampton.co.uk/


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## clintonf

Packard said:


> I just looked back at the origin of the e-mails. You can contact them yourself. I wrote originally to the contact e-mail address that they list on their website.
> 
> Sarah wrote.
> 
> sarah dudley <[email protected]>
> 
> Their website: https://www.shoesnorthampton.co.uk/


Unfortunately, that isn't the Alfred Sargent Website. It is here

https://www.alfredsargent.co.uk/

But there's nothing really on it.

If I may suggest, that if you're interested, you can do the following:

1. Use a site like Pediwear to select a style that you like (from the Premier Range) or Request a Catalogue.

2. Decide on a colour and any additional features that you require (such as fiddleback waist, etc...)

3. Try and get a fitting of the shoe that you've identified and identify your size.

4. Contact AS at the email address above and ask them for the shoe.

5. Discuss payment.

4. Wait for the parcel to arrive.

Job done.

I hope that this helps

Clint


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## Packard

clintonf said:


> Unfortunately, that isn't the Alfred Sargent Website. It is here
> 
> https://www.alfredsargent.co.uk/
> 
> But there's nothing really on it.
> 
> If I may suggest, that if you're interested, you can do the following:
> 
> 1. Use a site like Pediwear to select a style that you like (from the Premier Range) or Request a Catalogue.
> 
> 2. Decide on a colour and any additional features that you require (such as fiddleback waist, etc...)
> 
> 3. Try and get a fitting of the shoe that you've identified and identify your size.
> 
> 4. Contact AS at the email address above and ask them for the shoe.
> 
> 5. Discuss payment.
> 
> 4. Wait for the parcel to arrive.
> 
> Job done.
> 
> I hope that this helps
> 
> Clint


Thanks.

Does any one know the exact model name for this shoe? Also, is Pediwear a reliable company to deal with?

I love the one piece leather look.

Packard


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## clintonf

Packard said:


> Thanks.
> 
> Does any one know the exact model name for this shoe? Also, is Pediwear a reliable company to deal with?
> 
> I love the one piece leather look.
> 
> Packard


The shoe is called the "Tavistock" (or Connaught).

Here is the Pediwear link to it.

https://www.pediwear.co.uk/sargent/ranges/77.php

If you notice at the top of this thread, this shoe has been customised from the basic model.

I hope that this helps.

Clint


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## Packard

clintonf said:


> The shoe is called the "Tavistock" (or Connaught).
> 
> Here is the Pediwear link to it.
> 
> https://www.pediwear.co.uk/sargent/ranges/77.php
> 
> If you notice at the top of this thread, this shoe has been customised from the basic model.
> 
> I hope that this helps.
> 
> Clint


Thanks. I just e-mailed to them asking about their international sales policy. I think the standard Connaught will do fine for me as long as I get the right fit.

Regards,

Packard


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## Packard

Is Pediwear a reliable vendor? Does anyone know?


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## Groover

Packard said:


> Is Pediwear a reliable vendor? Does anyone know?


Yes they are. I've had in excess of 15 pairs from them and never a problem


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## Packard

Groover said:


> Yes they are. I've had in excess of 15 pairs from them and never a problem


Thanks. It is a bit more nerve wracking when you are dealing with a vendor that is out of the country and 2,000 miles away. Of course using the credit card makes it simpler. The main worry is over the fit. If the size comes in wrong then there is back and forth shipping to deal with.

I've written to them and I am awaiting a reply.

Do you know if American sizing matches up with the English sizing. I wear an 8-1/2 E on most American lasts (but not on Alden's Cordovan Monk straps with which I needed an 8-E)?


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## ToryBoy

Packard said:


> Is Pediwear a reliable vendor?


Is Pediwear reliable?

If you want to know what the weather will be like tomorrow, ask Pediwear
If you want to know the lottery numbers, ask Pediwear
If you want to know if your g/f is pregnant, ask Pediwear

and if you want to know about shoe sizes or what shoe size you will be on a particular last, they can help too


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## Packard

ToryBoy said:


> Is Pediwear reliable?
> 
> If you want to know what the weather will be like tomorrow, ask Pediwear
> If you want to know the lottery numbers, ask Pediwear
> If you want to know if your g/f is pregnant, ask Pediwear
> 
> and if you want to know about shoe sizes or what shoe size you will be on a particular last, they can help too


Thanks for the referral.

_Dear Pediwear,_

_Is there anyone in England that can make mutton edible? My brother goes there a few times a year and tells me that it is not possible._

_Regards,_


_Packard_


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## StephenRG

Packard said:


> Thanks for the referral.
> 
> _Dear Pediwear,_
> 
> _Is there anyone in England that can make mutton edible? My brother goes there a few times a year and tells me that it is not possible._
> 
> _Regards,_
> 
> 
> _Packard_


It's know variously as "polished lamb", "corrected lamb" and "bookbinder lamb"...


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## GreenPlastic

Packard said:


> Is Pediwear a reliable vendor? Does anyone know?


Absolutely. Great pricing and top-notch customer service. I can't recommend them highly enough.


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## Packard

GreenPlastic said:


> Absolutely. Great pricing and top-notch customer service. I can't recommend them highly enough.


So others have said. But they have been more than a little laxidasical in responding to my e-mails. It's been over 24 hours and no response yet.


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## Packard

Pediwear finally responded. I will have to do some measuring when I get home.

Here is what they wrote:

Dear Packard
Thank you for your e-mail.
With reference to the Alfred Sargent Connaught in the F width, over the years we have found this similar to the US D width. However being an wholecut shoe it could well fit the US E.
Generally the UK length size is indeed half a size less than the US.
Shipping is free for Alfred Sargent footwear and the UK VAT is deducted.. We do accept VISA cards
Regarding our Returns Policy, please view;


May we suggest that you measure your feet using the following method :

Please stand with your heels against a hard surface and measure form the heel to the tip of the big toe. For the circumference, please measure around the widest part of the foot which is at the big toe joint. If these measurements could then be forwarded to us, this should help us to suggest the most suitable size.

Trust that the above is helpful, and that we may be of further assistance to you in the future.
Meanwhile thank you for your interest in our company.
Regards

Carol Bentley 
Pediwear Shoe Centre Online 
email:[email protected] 
https://www.pediwear.co.uk 

Tel:+44 (0)1422 253744 
Fax:+44 (0)1422 253744


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## clintonf

*More Pictures*

Hi all, I've got some more pictures of the inside of the shoes. I hope that you can make out what I'm trying to photograph.



























































































Clint


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## Packard

You need a macro lens; everything is out of focus.

(But we can read your "Made for Clint" imprint.)


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## clintonf

Packard said:


> You need a macro lens; everything is out of focus.
> 
> (But we can read your "Made for Clint" imprint.)


You're absolutely correct. I'm rubbish at photography and I've got a rubbish digital camera (which I tried to use the macro lens). I guess that I will try to purchase a better one at some point.

I think that most people can make out the construction (which is what I'm trying to show), but if the consensus is that the pictures do not serve any purpose, then I will try again with them.

Cheers

Clint


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## misterdonuts

Try aiming the camera from at least 18" away from the object, then zoom in to get a closer shot. It usually works, even with a basic model.


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## clintonf

misterdonuts said:


> Try aiming the camera from at least 18" away from the object, then zoom in to get a closer shot. It usually works, even with a basic model.


I've just received a PM from Packard with some quick instructions on how to better use my camera.

If I get time today, I will try again. However, the sun came out and I quickly took the photos. I don't know whether I've missed the opportunity.

I hope that they are not that terrible that you cannot make out what I'm trying to represent.

Thanks again

Clint


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## misterdonuts

I think the above photos do the job. And, thank you for posting them. I think it's just a matter of getting them up to porn quality.:icon_smile_big:


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## clintonf

misterdonuts said:


> I think the above photos do the job. And, thank you for posting them. I think it's just a matter of getting them up to porn quality.:icon_smile_big:


"Porn Quality" - My quote of the day!! :icon_smile_big:


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## //Michael

Very nice, Pops! :icon_smile:


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## emptym

Great shoes, Clifton!

I've been talking w/ them for over a month and eagerly await delivery of my first order.


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## clintonf

Hi all, I'd just like to tell anyone who doesn't mind listening about my experience during a recent Alfred Sargent Factory visit.

The purpose of my visit was to collect my "latest" 2 pairs of shoes. I, unfortunately, didn't take my camera with me (and I didn't really ask for permission to take pictures), but I was made to feel most welcome at the Factory. I was taken around the factory by the Factory Manager.

Having never been to a shoe Factory before, I was surprised at what was involved in producing my shoes. I also thoroughly enjoyed meeting the people who actually worked on my shoes, and I think in some regards, a pleasure for them to meet a Customer for whom they've worked so hard.

As I'm a shoe novice, I don't really understand all of the processes involved (and man there are many), so please forgive me if I'm inaccurate in my descriptions.

First Stop was the design room. I spent a fair amount of time there discussing the various considerations involved in creating a new last and taking a client's design to a last. I encountered some very knowledgeable people in that room.

We then went into the area where the leather is chosen for shoes. I was shown what parts of a skin the different sections are cut from. I was shown Nubuck, Suede and Cordovan (unsurprisingly, it does look just like a horse's backside.

I was then taken to the area which deals with cutting the pattern (for all who don't know, a process called "clicking"). I was shown how a clicking blade is made. Then a sample pattern was cut by hand to show me how it was done.

Then onto "Closing" using specialised sewing machines (to my untrained eye). These machines are called:

• A Flat machine, 
• A Post machine, 
• Under edge (used for trimming top line lining and stitching a row on upper.)

I found some of these machines pretty cool. However, it was clear to me that you need a good deal of skill to get them to do much. Very interesting to see in use.

I was shown a room called a "Mulling Room". Basically, the leather is left in this humid room for a few days to soften, prior to being lasted. I was told that not many factories have a room like this.

Next onto the Lasting section. I was shown where my shoes were hand lasted I was told that my shoes had a fair bit of hand involvement in the lasting I was shown the machines used to provide the lasting.

To my ignorant self, this is about putting the nails around the leather on the last in the correct tightness so that the leather takes on the shape of the last.

I was shown Toe lasting and Side lasting, the machines involved (pretty impressive looking) and the skill involved to ensure that the leather sits on the last in the "correct" way.

I was taken onto the area which dealt with the Welt sewing, "Rough rounding" and sole stitching. I was informed that my shoes had a lot of manual involvement in this area, with the building of the fiddleback waist.

I was shown the machine that attaches the heel. Again, this machine was impressive looking and quite frightening as the user had to get the shoes off the mount before the next set of nails was "loaded". The top piece was hand pinned with brass nails.

Then, we moved onto the finishing area (my favourite). This is where the shoes actually start to look like the lovely specimens that we adore in shoe porn. I was shown edge trimming, sole and edge finishing (and the material they use for this).

My shoes had a lot of work done here, with the hand painted soles and the nail patterning. The shoes were then cleaned (something that I didn't really think about) then polished.

I was also given a shoe polishing lesson, which proved very beneficial for me (I can get a good shine now on my shoes).

I was handed my shoes after spending 90 mins talking with Paul and Andrew Sargent. I found Paul to be particularly personable. My opinion was they were very sad about the redundancies and they had no choice if they wanted to ensure the employment of the remaining employees. But he didn't really say more about it. I didn't feel that there was any benefit in pursuing this line of questioning.

However, what I did observe is that there is a bunch (around 80 people) of dedicated, skilled, professional personnel. Who, I believe, if supported by the public, will provide some very high quality shoes for many years to come.

They've had a bad time in the last year, but I believe that the worst is over and I'm willing to spend money on seeing what they can come with.

If what they produce for the new range is anything like what they've given me to date, I personally see no reason for looking for my shoes elsewhere. Who knows, maybe we may get them to do a Bespoke service (although, I doubt this at the moment).

I'll try and answer any questions that you may have, but I may fail dismally.

I hope that you enjoyed my little description of the tour. I'm sorry that I don't have pictures of the factory. However, I do some pictures of my shoes in various stages of production.

Please accept my apologies for the quality of the photographs. I have tried to use the factory provided shots.

I hope that you like the shoes.


























































































































































Clint


----------



## Flanderian

Thank you for this marvelous follow-up. I found it both very enjoyable and instructive. And it sounds as if you really enjoyed your visit. 

I think your photos are fine, by the way.


----------



## JDMills

Those must be some of the best looking shoes I've ever seen. Congratulations and enjoy them! :icon_smile:


----------



## Flanderian

I did not have time initially to download all the photos. Now that I have, I wish to change my fine to WOW!

Great photos, and spectacular shoes! You might wish to consider reposting this as a seperate thread. I think most AAAC members would enjoy this post, and I think some may not bother to open the thread thinking it's just commentary on an older post. FWIW.


----------



## clintonf

JDMills said:


> Those must be some of the best looking shoes I've ever seen. Congratulations and enjoy them! :icon_smile:


That's very kind of you. It's always difficult with shoes as people do have quite varied taste. I'm glad that you like them. I'm very pleased myself :icon_smile:



Flanderian said:


> I did not have time initially to download all the photos. Now that I have, I wish to change my fine to WOW!
> 
> Great photos, and spectacular shoes! You might wish to consider reposting this as a seperate thread. I think most AAAC members would enjoy this post, and I think some may not bother to open the thread thinking it's just commentary on an older post. FWIW.


Again, I'm pleased that you enjoyed reading the post. I really did enjoy the visit and I'm definitely going again. I'd like to cement my knowledge and understand more about the whole shoe making process.

Regarding reposting this post in a new thread, I thought about it, but I didn't want start up a new thread when I've already taken up space with this one!!!

I would like as many people to read this as possible, if only to recognise how the majority of well made shoes are currently being made. I must admit, I had no idea of what went into my making my shoes. I have a new found regard and appreciation of such now. So, I'll see what other members say regarding starting a new thread.

Thanks again.

Clint


----------



## Flanderian

clintonf said:


> I'd like to cement my knowledge and understand more about the whole shoe making process.


Interesting choice of words to discuss shoe making. :icon_smile_big:

Any further insight or photos you have on the topic would be very welcome.


----------



## clintonf

Flanderian said:


> Interesting choice of words to discuss shoe making. :icon_smile_big:
> 
> Any further insight or photos you have on the topic would be very welcome.


It doesn't sound quite right saying "goodyear my knowledge...." :icon_smile_big:

I'll take some better pictures of the shoes tomorrow. On the blue pair (yes a deep Blue - visable in natural light), the front was stitched by hand. A nice touch.

I'm really looking forward to seeing the new range and possibly getting my hands on a pair or two (money permitting):devil:

Cheers

Clint


----------



## CuffDaddy

BEAUTIFUL SHOES!!! I am filled with envy.


----------



## clintonf

CuffDaddy said:


> BEAUTIFUL SHOES!!! I am filled with envy.


Thank you. I'm not trying to rub your face (or foot) in it, but just wait until I can get my hands on the new Range. They promise to be awesome.

I can't wait.

Thanks

Clint


----------



## stingray1381

Very nice. Looking good.


----------



## pledge

*New Range*



clintonf said:


> Thank you. I'm not trying to rub your face (or foot) in it, but just wait until I can get my hands on the new Range. They promise to be awesome.
> 
> I can't wait.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Clint


Clint, Is there an estimated release date for the New Range? Has AS listed any anticipated improvements to the line yet? Thx.


----------



## clintonf

stingray1381 said:


> Very nice. Looking good.


Thank you so much Sir. They are better looking in the "flesh".

I should really take some more photos!!



pledge said:


> Clint, Is there an estimated release date for the New Range? Has AS listed any anticipated improvements to the line yet? Thx.


Right, I've been told "officially" that the New AS Range will be released in January. I cannot say with certainty that it will be then. If I know (individuals in) AS, then it will be as soon as possible (before January).

Below is what I was told via email when I enquired.

_What we are now offering is to be able to change any Premier range stock shoe to a customers individual requirements this will allow the customer to choose his own :-Leather colour, Sole type for example Leather, Rubber. Sole treatment for example, Stitched aloft or channelled. Heel, for example 1/4 rubber, dovetail. These shoes would also include a tin of shoe polish, shoe bag, spare laces, shoe horn, the customers name on the lining and a cedarwood shoe tree. Price £400.

*For £500 the above, but the same spec as your wholecut, fiddleback oak bark soles, hand painted soles, antique available, leather stiffeners. More handwork involved hence the price increase.*_

I would say that the 2nd paragraph is more akin to what would be produced in the new range. They are producing new lasts and styles and they promise to be stunning (I've glimpsed some of the sample shoes and I was very impressed). I honestly believe that the new range will challenge some of the more established manufacturers at that price range and the way that I've been assisted in making my choices has been first rate. Otherwise, I doubt that I would consider spending £500 on a pair of shoes (let alone 4 pairs).

Perhaps you could drop them a line about the release date?

My only issue is that I'm really impatient and I hate the long wait for the new range.

I hope that this helps.

Clint


----------



## Bertie Wooster

Wonderful shoes Clint ! You might report back in a few months to tell us how they are wearing if you have the opportunity ? 
This really does show that AS are able to make some sublime creations. I can't wait for the new range !


----------



## Kingstonian

It seems to me, from the news I read, that the redundant workers treatment was very shabby indeed.

I would therefore have nothing to do with the firm responsible -Sargents- in the future, unless/until that situation was rectified.


----------



## clintonf

Bertie Wooster said:


> Wonderful shoes Clint ! You might report back in a few months to tell us how they are wearing if you have the opportunity ?
> This really does show that AS are able to make some sublime creations. I can't wait for the new range !


I will (when I get around to wearing them). I'm just embarrassed that I have nowhere to wear them to!!!

I do honestly believe that the company will emerge from the "Ashes" to form something special.



Kingstonian said:


> It seems to me, from the news I read, that the redundant workers treatment was very shabby indeed.
> 
> I would therefore have nothing to do with the firm responsible -Sargents- in the future, unless/until that situation was rectified.


I can see your point of view and I too questioned them about what happened late last year/early this year. The response was somewhat guarded (as if there was more to tell), but they appeared to recognise that things didn't go well and was clearly upset about it.

The way that I see it is that some company's have to make tough decisions. Some decisions may be less morally ethical than others. However, I believe they acted within the confines of the law.

Having been to the Factory and seeing the people on the shop floor and how they appear to be getting on, I personally feel that to withdraw support for the company is a) not going to help the remaining 80 staff; b) not going to support the more traditional shoe-manufacturing processes in Northamptonshire.

Hence, I am not posting to make any social or moral judgements. I'm posting this because I have had some great shoes made by a "good" company. I'm unsure how the staff who have been made redundant are getting on. But, like people who perform triage in medical situations, I would rather know that some of the staff survived than none.

If you don't wish to buy their shoes, no one can make you. I simply choose to and I wish to provide a potential alternative to some of the "Big Guns" in the shoe industry.

Regards

Clint


----------



## Kingstonian

*clintonf, *Sargent were not a brand that I was particularly taken with before their troubles. You shoes are very nice though.

As you are probably aware, it is often fairly easy for UK firms to go into liquidation only to reemerge in a different form a short while later. I would draw a distinction between what is legal and what is ethical.

I would also worry about the treatment of the remaining workers if things do not go well for the new company. In tough times the workers will take what is available. It does not mean they are happy with their situation.

It is up to potential customers to make up their own minds. When I pay that sort of money for a shoe I like to feel good about the company/brand behind it. There are UK alternatives. That is just my reaction. Others may look at the shoe and not be worried about all the background issues


----------



## clintonf

Kingstonian said:


> *clintonf, *Sargent were not a brand that I was particularly taken with before their troubles. You shoes are very nice though.
> 
> As you are probably aware, it is often fairly easy for UK firms to go into liquidation only to reemerge in a different form a short while later. I would draw a distinction between what is legal and what is ethical.
> 
> I would also worry about the treatment of the remaining workers if things do not go well for the new company. In tough times the workers will take what is available. It does not mean they are happy with their situation.
> 
> It is up to potential customers to make up their own minds. When I pay that sort of money for a shoe I like to feel good about the company/brand behind it. There are UK alternatives. That is just my reaction. Others may look at the shoe and not be worried about all the background issues


Kingstonian, I completely understand your perspective and why you wouldn't feel "right" about dealing with a company who doesn't look after their staff. I too, often have similar feelings about companies, especially when spending my hard earned money.

As I believe I've mentioned above, I dare not make any assumptions about what happened last year. I've read a lot about what people said (mainly on this site) or in the media. I will state for the record, that I do not necessarily agree with this type of "liquidation".

All I can do is (as you do) follow my conscience on this one. Sure, if AS were to fall upon hard times again, they may be inclined to try something similar. However, I would figure that very few companies would not attempt something similar, if the situation dictated.

From my humble observations (mainly from this site, and by speaking to people more knowledgeable about shoes than I), many of the shoes makers have "secrets" that they would prefer Customers such as you and I not to know. It's just that the AS secrets became public, owing to the nature of them.

I don't want to drag this discussion out, and I certainly mean no insult in any of what I say, but I can only repeat what I said above about my rational for using them.

I have no affiliation to any of the shoe makers (I would like to own at least one pair of all of the British shoe makers shoes). But I feel that this company's been "punished" enough. Perhaps, if they make enough money they may be able to put "right" what happened (in whatever form that may take).

However, as I believe you've alluded to, little that you or I write here will really change people's minds. If a person doesn't feel right about a company, they are unlikely to buy from them. The converse is also true.

Let's talk shoes. What manufacturer do you feel offers the best bang for buck (or pound)?

Cheers

Clint


----------



## Kingstonian

clintonf said:


> Let's talk shoes. What manufacturer do you feel offers the best bang for buck (or pound)?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Clint


It depends how much you want to pay.

If you are not worried about country of origin, then Clifford James and Samuel Windsor offer inexpensive, all leather shoes. Clifford James used to do two pairs of plain black Oxfords for £25. Yes, they were corrected grain of course, but they looked better than anything Marks and Spencer offered. Samuel Windsor shoes are often calf.

Moving up the price range, I think Loake are great value though they get no love on the forums.

Trickers are good value, Their designs may be a bit sturdy for some. Crockett & Jones are elegant and good for the price too.

It is just a shame that you have to really seek shoes out now. In the old days, good own brand shoes from chains like Saxone were available on every High Street.


----------



## clintonf

Kingstonian said:


> It depends how much you want to pay.
> 
> If you are not worried about country of origin, then Clifford James and Samuel Windsor offer inexpensive, all leather shoes. Clifford James used to do two pairs of plain black Oxfords for £25. Yes, they were corrected grain of course, but they looked better than anything Marks and Spencer offered. Samuel Windsor shoes are often calf.
> 
> Moving up the price range, I think Loake are great value though they get no love on the forums.
> 
> Trickers are good value, Their designs may be a bit sturdy for some. Crockett & Jones are elegant and good for the price too.
> 
> It is just a shame that you have to really seek shoes out now. In the old days, good own brand shoes from chains like Saxone were available on every High Street.


You do make a good point about having to "seek" out shoes nowadays.

I did try Samuel Windsor and purchased two pairs during one of their special offer period. Unfortunately, I couldn't live with the look and feel of them and I returned them.

I do like Loakes (the 1880 range particularly). I have a pair of Kempton boots.

I only have one pair of Trickers (Mayfair), but I'm pretty surprised at the quality of the shoes. Mine where seconds (from the 'Bay), and they had some discolouration to the leather. However, they 'are solid, good looking shoes. I am considering getting another pair of seconds.

C & J, I'm just getting into. I have a few pairs and some rebadge pairs for Peal and Co. My only complaint is that they appear to crease quite easily. I understand that there maybe various reasons for this. However, it doesn't take long for the creases to appear, even though I do keep them in shoes trees (generic). Other than that, fine shoes.

Barkers are another make that I like. I am fortunate enough to own some 125th Anniversary shoes and they are very nice looking. I also have some Barker Black (seconds) and they do appear to be nicely made.

I don't own any Lobb or Edward Green. I certainly have considered buying a pair. However, the timing's not been right (i.e. I've not had enough money). They do look and feel amazing though.

I own a single pair of G & G shoes and they are well built, but they don't "sing" to me as other pairs do.

I have some Cheaney shoes and they are nicely made also. Nothing too extravagant, but nice looking and pretty well made.

Grenson's a range that I do like. I've been trying to obtain as many of the Masterpiece quality shoes as I can find (and afford).

Lastly, I do own a fair few AS shoes and I find them to be very well made (Premier and upwards). I did obtain a shoe from the "classic" range and I gave them away (similar reasons to Samuel Windsor).

It may seem like I've got a lot of money. This is far from the case. I've just been fortunate enough to buy a lot of seconds or items at decent discounts.

The AS shoes above are my first "REALLY EXPENSIVE" shoes (for me), aside from a couple of pairs of Santoni FAM shoes.

Do you have a favourite brand?

Cheers

Clint


----------



## Kingstonian

clintonf said:


> Do you have a favourite brand?


I tend to have favourite style rather than favourite brands. All firms offer a black Oxford. I would consider each on its merits rather than automatically select by brand.

Having said that, I am now trying to buy from the English makers.

Barkers and Cheaney look better in their London shops than on their internet pages. I do not own any though.


----------



## clintonf

Kingstonian said:


> I tend to have favourite style rather than favourite brands. All firms offer a black Oxford. I would consider each on its merits rather than automatically select by brand.
> 
> Having said that, I am now trying to buy from the English makers.
> 
> Barkers and Cheaney look better in their London shops than on their internet pages. I do not own any though.


Your method is a good way to choose shoes. However, when I was really green to this shoe "thing", I would see apparently the same shoe made by different people. The only way I could identify the differences was to have similar shoes made by different makers and try out the fit and construction.

I do feel that certain brands do offer decent value for money, fit very well and are quite widely available. So, I tend to look for those.

I may be flamed for this, but I (now) think that the English styling looks better than some other Countries (Italy springs to mind, but not exclusively there). So I guess, my taste has changed somewhat towards UK based shoe makers.

Regards

Clint


----------



## Kingstonian

I think perhaps English shoes may fit English feet better. I prefer them too. Italian shoes look a bit flimsy sometimes. French make some very sleek shoes but some are a bit too fashion forward for me.

As for American shoes, I like the longwing and plain blucher in cordovan but would prefer to support an English company rather than Alden or Allen Edmonds. Those are the only two US style shoes I like. I have Trickers in cordovan.

Budapest shoes can be a bit clumpy in my opinion.

By the way, Birmingham to Northampton is around £11 on a cheap day rail return. I saw that particular trip advertised when I was there. You could check out all the factory shops. They are all walking distance of the station. There is a shoe museum as well, though I have not been in that yet. If driving is better the parking near the factory shops is fine. Trickers and Church's have carparks. Crockett & Jones and J Lobb have street parking nearby.


----------



## clintonf

I think you may be correct in your observations. I didn't mind the long, pointed Italian look (if my assumption is correct). However when I compare my Italian shoes (Zegna/Ferregamo as well as Santoni) to my English based shoes, I prefer the English ones. Maybe they do look nicer on my feet or out of the box. I just seem to be drawn to them.

I've not owned any American made shoes. I'm a little sad to admit that, with a few noteable exceptions), the AE shoes look a little staid and blobby to me. I qualify this by saying that I've never seen one in real life. Just via pictures. It may be a different story when/if I see them.

I have to ask this question as I'm probably still too green to understand. What is the deal with Cordovan? So many people like it, but it doesn't look like much to me. Again, I've only seen the raw hide, not a finished product in real life, so I may not understand it. However, it's something that I'd value your (and others) comments on.

The only Budapest shoes that I know of are from Vass. IMHO some of the Vass shoes are really, really nice. Some of them resemble football boots to me, so I get you completely on your observation. I would like to try a pair or two of the Vass shoes, but it would have to be the London style and next year (when I get some more money).

Regarding Northampton, I've thought about going on the train, but I guess I just prefer to pollute the skies and drive down.

I've not been to many places there. But I've been to Lobb and E.G. in Northampton and Barkers and AS just outside of Northampton.

I would like to get to C & J, Trickers and Grensons (which is just down the road from AS). Possibly Church Footwear. However, I haven't got the time (or money) at the moment. I'd probably be like a kid in a sweet shop and get myself into all sorts of financial trouble.

I think that I'd better start calming down on shoes. I didn't really get what the fuss about shoes were until the last couple of years. Now I think that I've become addicted to them.

I must stop...Just one more pair :devil:

Clint


Kingstonian said:


> I think perhaps English shoes may fit English feet better. I prefer them too. Italian shoes look a bit flimsy sometimes. French make some very sleek shoes but some are a bit too fashion forward for me.
> 
> As for American shoes, I like the longwing and plain blucher in cordovan but would prefer to support an English company rather than Alden or Allen Edmonds. Those are the only two US style shoes I like. I have Trickers in cordovan.
> 
> Budapest shoes can be a bit clumpy in my opinion.
> 
> By the way, Birmingham to Northampton is around £11 on a cheap day rail return. I saw that particular trip advertised when I was there. You could check out all the factory shops. They are all walking distance of the station. There is a shoe museum as well, though I have not been in that yet. If driving is better the parking near the factory shops is fine. Trickers and Church's have carparks. Crockett & Jones and J Lobb have street parking nearby.


----------



## Kingstonian

Cordovan shoes went together with mohair suits and button down collars when I was a lad, many decades ago. Cordovan may not make so much sense if that style does not appeal.

So you have been to Edward Green - did you make an appointment or just turn up on spec ?

It is easy to overdo it with shoes I suppose, especially if you think you are getting them at a good price.


----------



## clintonf

Hi understand your desire for Cordovan now. Sounds like the Mod look. Forgive me if I'm wrong.

Well, I did make an appointment. However, it was very short notice (we had just been to Lobb and my friend asked me to look at the shoes at E.G.). So, with an hour's notice we headed down to Green. They had just had one of their "exceptional" sales and I was curious to see what they had to offer.

Their shoes are so nice and well made. I found out that the 82 Last fits me the best. However, I couldn't help balk a little at the price. Call me a cheap skate, but I felt that paying close to full retail on a shoe should give me a sense of something special. I thought that I'd end up with a pair of excellent shoes (I've not heard a bad word against E.G. since I've heard of them) but in the same mould as other similar E.G. shoes.

I simply cannot afford or justify paying £600+ for MTO from some of the big brands. So I just purchased a few decent shoes at the "lower" end of the market (by that, I mean, far more than I could ever thought I'd spend on shoes). Now, I just about afford MTO shoes. But not for long.

What makes everything so very worst is that I am currently working at a Client's who operates a strict dress down policy. I and wearing different shoes every day and will get a ribbing for it from my colleagues.

I'm very sad as I cannot resist a bargain and there seems to be a fair few bargains around, if you know wheter to look (and is prepared to waste your time looking).

I just look forward to the day where I can put a suit on again 

Thanks

Clint



Kingstonian said:


> Cordovan shoes went together with mohair suits and button down collars when I was a lad, many decades ago. Cordovan may not make so much sense if that style does not appeal.
> 
> So you have been to Edward Green - did you make an appointment or just turn up on spec ?
> 
> It is easy to overdo it with shoes I suppose, especially if you think you are getting them at a good price.


----------



## Kingstonian

clintonf said:


> I simply cannot afford or justify paying £600+ for MTO from some of the big brands. So I just purchased a few decent shoes at the "lower" end of the market (by that, I mean, far more than I could ever thought I'd spend on shoes). Now, I just about afford MTO shoes. But not for long.


Yes. I can see what you mean. I only got interested when the High Street failed to offer half decent shoes any more. Gradually price expectations can rise. Though I sometimes think I do not want to wear the more expensive ones to work when the Loakes will be better than what everybody else is wearing.


----------



## clintonf

Kingstonian said:


> ...Though I sometimes think I do not want to wear the more expensive ones to work when the Loakes will be better than what everybody else is wearing.


Such true words spoken!! :icon_smile_big:

Enjoy your day.

Clint


----------



## pledge

clintonf said:


> Thank you so much Sir. They are better looking in the "flesh".
> 
> I should really take some more photos!!
> 
> Right, I've been told "officially" that the New AS Range will be released in January. I cannot say with certainty that it will be then. If I know (individuals in) AS, then it will be as soon as possible (before January).
> 
> Below is what I was told via email when I enquired.
> 
> _What we are now offering is to be able to change any Premier range stock shoe to a customers individual requirements this will allow the customer to choose his own :-Leather colour, Sole type for example Leather, Rubber. Sole treatment for example, Stitched aloft or channelled. Heel, for example 1/4 rubber, dovetail. These shoes would also include a tin of shoe polish, shoe bag, spare laces, shoe horn, the customers name on the lining and a cedarwood shoe tree. Price £400._
> 
> _*For £500 the above, but the same spec as your wholecut, fiddleback oak bark soles, hand painted soles, antique available, leather stiffeners. More handwork involved hence the price increase.*_
> 
> I would say that the 2nd paragraph is more akin to what would be produced in the new range. They are producing new lasts and styles and they promise to be stunning (I've glimpsed some of the sample shoes and I was very impressed). I honestly believe that the new range will challenge some of the more established manufacturers at that price range and the way that I've been assisted in making my choices has been first rate. Otherwise, I doubt that I would consider spending £500 on a pair of shoes (let alone 4 pairs).
> 
> Perhaps you could drop them a line about the release date?
> 
> My only issue is that I'm really impatient and I hate the long wait for the new range.
> 
> I hope that this helps.
> 
> Clint


Hi Clint,

Thanks for the reply. I have emailed Alfred Sargent, but they seem to be slow with their email replies. I will email them again soon regarding the release date. January is later than I expected for the New Range, but the MTO is a great option for now. Based on pictures of your shoes, you are clearly getting a superior shoe for 500 GBP. Thanks for the information. Enjoy!


----------



## clintonf

pledge said:


> Hi Clint,
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I have emailed Alfred Sargent, but they seem to be slow with their email replies. I will email them again soon regarding the release date. January is later than I expected for the New Range, but the MTO is a great option for now. Based on pictures of your shoes, you are clearly getting a superior shoe for 500 GBP. Thanks for the information. Enjoy!


Hi. Give them another day or so. As I understand it, the main sales person is away in Italy at some trade show. However, I have received correspondence from AS, albeit a little delayed.

Please let me (us) know how you get on?

Cheers

Clint


----------



## misterdonuts

Yes, Pitti Uomo is on this week, so I would given them until sometime next week to reply to queries. I hope the show is a success for them.


----------



## smr

Thanks for the pics. Beautiful shoes!


----------



## clintonf

misterdonuts said:


> Yes, Pitti Uomo is on this week, so I would given them until sometime next week to reply to queries. I hope the show is a success for them.


Thanks for enhancing my explanation. I'll google the shoe and see whether they have any information on it. I'm going to ask AS whether they will provide me with any pictures of the proposed new range so I can post them here!!! We'll see.



smr said:


> Thanks for the pics. Beautiful shoes!


That's very kind of you.

Regards

Clint


----------



## clintonf

*Another pair*

Here's my final pair before the new range hits the street (I hope - can't afford any more).

Cheers

Clint


----------



## emptym

Thanks for your extremely informative posts, Clifton. I own shoes by a few US and English companies (Alden, vintage Florsheims, C&J, EG, Sanders) and one pair of Alfred Sargents (suede slip-ons). They're probably my favorite pair. So I've asked AS to make a pair in calfskin w/ a dainite sole for use while motorcycle and bicycle commuting as well as for general travel. They've shared w/ me a few pictures of the early stages of their making.:

















Hope you don't mind my posting them here. I plan to post a pretty comprehensive thread when I get them and test them out.


----------



## clintonf

Hi, I do not mind in the slightest you posting in this thread.

The purpose of my thread was simply to showcase some shoes that I'm extremely happy with and hopefully allow others to have a think about an alternative supplier of good quality shoes than the "usual" makers.

If you've decided to have some shoes made by AS, then I would be VERY interested in seeing them. Groover has posted up his experience on Style Forum and the shoes are awesome (literally).

So, please get any pictures that you have. If we can use this thread as a source of reference for any potentially interested parties, I think it will be good.

Have you got any timescales for delivery?

Cheers

CLINTON (not my other name that you've used :devil


emptym said:


> Thanks for your extremely informative posts, Clifton. I own shoes by a few US and English companies (Alden, vintage Florsheims, C&J, EG, Sanders) and one pair of Alfred Sargents (suede slip-ons). They're probably my favorite pair. So I've asked AS to make a pair in calfskin w/ a dainite sole for use while motorcycle and bicycle commuting as well as for general travel. They've shared w/ me a few pictures of the early stages of their making.:
> 
> Hope you don't mind my posting them here. I plan to post a pretty comprehensive thread when I get them and test them out.


----------



## Groover

clintonf said:


> Groover has posted up his experience on Style Forum and the shoes are awesome (literally).


Thank you Clint for your kind words. Here are my AS:

Premier Range Style: Stowe
Last: 99f
Espresso Burnished Calf
Oak Bark Fiddle Back Sole


----------



## clintonf

I Don't want this to turn into a back slapping competition, but it just shows the good tastes that some of the members of these forums have.

I, like, I'm sure many others, feel that shoes can fall into the "too much" category all too easily. It's really a good testament to the people involved when shoes look "just right".

I've seen many shoes that are just right on here (and Style Forum). In my opinion, Groover has joined these esteemed ranks with this choice.

Well done.

Clint


----------



## emptym

Ya, Goover's are _spectacular_. I love the leather. If they still have some, It'd be great for my second shoe from AS, probably a brown plain captoe.


clintonf said:


> ...If you've decided to have some shoes made by AS, then I would be VERY interested in seeing them. Groover has posted up his experience on Style Forum and the shoes are awesome (literally).
> 
> So, please get any pictures that you have. If we can use this thread as a source of reference for any potentially interested parties, I think it will be good.
> 
> Have you got any timescales for delivery?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> CLINTON (not my other name that you've used :devil


Sounds good. Thanks. I'll post more pictures as they come. 
Sorry about misspelling your name! The "f" at the end of your screen name migrated in there somehow.


----------



## gman-17

Groover said:


> Thank you Clint for your kind words. Here are my AS:
> 
> Premier Range Style: Stowe
> Last: 99f
> Espresso Burnished Calf
> Oak Bark Fiddle Back Sole


Very nice!


----------



## Leather man

Both Clinton's and Groover's shoes are outstanding! I know Groover you have had them made in Edward Green quality leather and so dare I say it they are as good as EG Top Drawer - the polishing and the soles look just as good. They are certainly as good as Gaziano and Girling's shoes yet their price tag is well below both at £500 for an MTO shoe. With the price hikes of both EG and G&G especially in recent months they better watch out I think as this new competition enters the market.

The reason given for the price hikes is the weak pound against the euro - but when the pound moderately strengthened , certainly from where it was earlier in the year said companies did not reduce their prices accordingly. I notice this practice in a number of retail areas - and its not good because it builds unnecessary inflation into the system. I keep a marine reef tank at home and the products I use are American. When the dollar/pound ratio was 2:1 the prices stayed where they were. Now the ratio is less favourable for the UK the prices are going up! C'est la vie je pense


----------



## clintonf

No problem. I look forward to seeing yours. Forgive me if this has been asked before, but when are you expecting them?



emptym said:


> Ya, Goover's are _spectacular_. I love the leather. If they still have some, It'd be great for my second shoe from AS, probably a brown plain captoe.
> 
> Sounds good. Thanks. I'll post more pictures as they come.
> Sorry about misspelling your name! The "f" at the end of your screen name migrated in there somehow.


----------



## clintonf

Very well said. I'm not to go around beating these other shoe makers because of their pricing (much as I'd like to). But as you've mentioned, some companies put their prices up to keep pace with the fluctuation in currency. However, they very rarely put them down to balance things out.

One year ago I would not have considered paying £500 for any pair of shoes. However, thanks to AAAC and SF, I've developed a new found appreciation of shoes.

I do think that the AS shoes represent good value for money. As I've mentioned before, the amount of control that have over the shoes is almost limitless and that goes a long way in my book.

Another thing that I may not have mentioned is that the staff of AS know that they can do better and actually want to. They see it as a journey, which are encouraging customers to take with them.

To me, it's quite exciting to be on the ground floor of such potential.

I had a plan to own all of the major RTW manufacturers, just so I can compare them. However, I may just have a reason not to continue with this quest.

On another note, I've commissioned Cliff Roberts to make me a shoe. I've not heard word from him for a month or so, but I'm hopeful that it will be available shortly.

Cheers

Clint



Leather man said:


> Both Clinton's and Groover's shoes are outstanding! I know Groover you have had them made in Edward Green quality leather and so dare I say it they are as good as EG Top Drawer - the polishing and the soles look just as good. They are certainly as good as Gaziano and Girling's shoes yet their price tag is well below both at £500 for an MTO shoe. With the price hikes of both EG and G&G especially in recent months they better watch out I think as this new competition enters the market.
> 
> The reason given for the price hikes is the weak pound against the euro - but when the pound moderately strengthened , certainly from where it was earlier in the year said companies did not reduce their prices accordingly. I notice this practice in a number of retail areas - and its not good because it builds unnecessary inflation into the system. I keep a marine reef tank at home and the products I use are American. When the dollar/pound ratio was 2:1 the prices stayed where they were. Now the ratio is less favourable for the UK the prices are going up! C'est la vie je pense


----------



## emptym

clintonf said:


> No problem. I look forward to seeing yours. Forgive me if this has been asked before, but when are you expecting them?


I'm not sure actually. They had hoped to get them out before their summer break.


----------



## Groover

emptym said:


> Ya, Goover's are _spectacular_. I love the leather. If they still have some, It'd be great for my second shoe from AS, probably a brown plain captoe.


Thank you.

If you request Espresso with heavy burnishing you'll get the same finish as mine.

If I may I would like to echo Clintons' comments on the service provided by Alfred Sargent. From the outset the service has been simply awesome, every question I've raised, every feature I've requested, every detail regarding anything to do with the shoe (and construction) has been answered.

I made some very specific requests with my order and was kept in the production loop through every stage. As an example the sole pins for my initials were drawn up on paper with holes punched to detail where the actual brass pins would go and emailed to me for my approval.

The best was saved to last though, to be given a tour of the factory during a working day was the the crowning glory. To meet the people who cut the leather, stitched the uppers, hand lasted my shoes, put the cork filler in, stitched the soles and closed the channel and those that finished the shoe was an experience I shall treasure. It gave me a new found respect for those who perform these tasks with such care and attention.

The level of service I received goes above and beyond anything I've experienced before. I shall return to Alfred Sargent for more of the same.


----------



## MTM_Master?

Wow. Truly beautiful shoes. The craftsmanship is readily apparent.


----------



## clintonf

Hi, I'm back again. With this one, it's a love them or hate them. I think you know which camp I'm in :icon_smile_big:.

The AS people were very happy with this one and tried something different with the height of the sole at certain points. I've not manage to capture this in the following photos, but I will provide more, if required.

I REALLY like them. So without further ado:























































I'm hoping to have another 2-3 pairs before the end of the year. So watch this space.

Cheers

Clint


----------



## Groover

Good Morning Clinton,

Congratulations on your latest pair, interesting choice of leather around the lacing section.

Which last were these made on? It looks suspiciously like the 87?

I trust your fitting went well on Thursday?


----------



## clintonf

Hi G, I trust that you are well?

The mock croc was "suggested" by AS and although it's a little adventurous, they work. The shoes look quite different in real life. I've tried my best to capture what they look like, but they do look better in life.

The last that this shoe is on is the quite slim fitting 104 last. Quite a narrow last and quite snug on my wide-ish feet. At the moment, I think my AS last of choice is the 99, followed by 87.

The fitting went well. They are looking decent, but some adjustments are being made and I will probably have to go back for another fitting. In a word, "brilliant" is the best way to describe the service that I'm receiving.

Never have I received such service from a company. I guess, if I spent £1000's per pair, I may get such a personalise service from any one. But for the price, the advice I'm getting is second to none (in my opinion).

On a separate not, I don't know whether I should mention this, but I will. I saw two pair of quite distinct boots in the factory. I wonder who they belong to. :devil:

Cheers

Clint



Groover said:


> Good Morning Clinton,
> 
> Congratulations on your latest pair, interesting choice of leather around the lacing section.
> 
> Which last were these made on? It looks suspiciously like the 87?
> 
> I trust your fitting went well on Thursday?


----------



## Groover

clintonf said:


> Hi G, I trust that you are well?
> 
> The mock croc was "suggested" by AS and although it's a little adventurous, they work. The shoes look quite different in real life. I've tried my best to capture what they look like, but they do look better in life.
> 
> The last that this shoe is on is the quite slim fitting 104 last. Quite a narrow last and quite snug on my wide-ish feet. At the moment, I think my AS last of choice is the 99, followed by 87.
> 
> The fitting went well. They are looking decent, but some adjustments are being made and I will probably have to go back for another fitting. In a word, "brilliant" is the best way to describe the service that I'm receiving.
> 
> Never have I received such service from a company. I guess, if I spent £1000's per pair, I may get such a personalise service from any one. But for the price, the advice I'm getting is second to none (in my opinion).
> 
> On a separate not, I don't know whether I should mention this, but I will. I saw two pair of quite distinct boots in the factory. I wonder who they belong to. :devil:
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Clint


I'm very well my friend thank you.

The 104 eh? I like the toe shape, I'll have to take a closer look in a few weeks.

i quite like the croc finish, something a little different.

I spoke at length with AS last week and understand your pleasure at the service.

Two pairs of boots? No idea :biggrin2:


----------



## Ay329

Clintonf...thanks for posting the new pics of the moc crock throat

Naturally I hate them


----------



## Flanderian

These are beautiful shoes. I agree that the styling is much more than a gimmick, as it works for my eye also. Lovely combining of line and design elements. The shoe is essentially a whole cut with the contrasting apron at the lacing. Some may sniff at moc-croc, but I think it looks fine as a decorative element. I also love the finish of the brown leather. Very rich. The fiddle-back soles are a work of art. Almost a pity to touch them to pavement.

I know they're an Americanism, and not to many individual's tastes, but I confess to being a fan of saddle shoes. I can't help but think that this leather combination would make a very handsome saddle. A more robust last would benefit it, and as a casual country shoe, I might put a Dainite sole on it, but it could make a very handsome shoe.


----------



## clintonf

Ay329 said:


> Clintonf...thanks for posting the new pics of the moc crock throat
> 
> Naturally I hate them


 Good!! So there!!! :icon_smile:


----------



## clintonf

Thank you very much for your synopsis. I think that you've essentially capture the very essence of what these shoes are trying to represent. However, you've manage to eloquently describe what I so clumsily wanted to.

You're causing me to think about the Saddle shoes. Would you be able to provide some examples for me to ponder over?

Many thanks again. The shoes are very nice in the flesh. It's a really pity that I'm still finding it difficult to capture the beauty of the shoes digitally (despite help from various members such as Packard).

Regards

Clint



Flanderian said:


> These are beautiful shoes. I agree that the styling is much more than a gimmick, as it works for my eye also. Lovely combining of line and design elements. The shoe is essentially a whole cut with the contrasting apron at the lacing. Some may sniff at moc-croc, but I think it looks fine as a decorative element. I also love the finish of the brown leather. Very rich. The fiddle-back soles are a work of art. Almost a pity to touch them to pavement.
> 
> I know they're an Americanism, and not to many individual's tastes, but I confess to being a fan of saddle shoes. I can't help but think that this leather combination would make a very handsome saddle. A more robust last would benefit it, and as a casual country shoe, I might put a Dainite sole on it, but it could make a very handsome shoe.


----------



## kelliw

Thanks for posting. I don't really like them though....


----------



## clintonf

kelliw said:


> Thanks for posting. I don't really like them though....


It's ok, I figured they would be a "like or hate" style of shoe. However, they are well made and I look forward to wearing them.

Thanks for your observations.

Clint


----------



## Flanderian

clintonf said:


> Thank you very much for your synopsis. I think that you've essentially capture the very essence of what these shoes are trying to represent. However, you've manage to eloquently describe what I so clumsily wanted to.
> 
> You're causing me to think about the Saddle shoes. Would you be able to provide some examples for me to ponder over?
> 
> Many thanks again. The shoes are very nice in the flesh. It's a really pity that I'm still finding it difficult to capture the beauty of the shoes digitally (despite help from various members such as Packard).
> 
> Regards
> 
> Clint


You are quite welcome.

Perhaps not the greatest example of a saddle shoe I've seen, but interesting, and probably done by Sargent as well. It should have a heel counter the color of the saddle, and I'm not sure I like medallion on the toe.

https://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Merchant_Id=1&Section_Id=494&Parent_id=305&Product_Id=1396244

A more classic example is Tom Park's from Leather Soul done by Alden, though I've never liked this particular color combination, and would not acquire it. But the shape is typical of an American shoe which I find works well for more casual styles. And other details are right, though I'd prefer blind eyelets.



Another shoe that Tom commissioned from Alden is a beautiful spectator in a gorgeous leather combination. I believe this leather combination would also make a great saddle shoe, perhaps with a crepe sole, which is a common element for traditional saddle shoes.


----------



## clintonf

Flanderian said:


> You are quite welcome.
> 
> Perhaps not the greatest example of a saddle shoe I've seen, but interesting, and probably done by Sargent as well. It should have a heel counter the color of the saddle, and I'm not sure I like medallion on the toe.
> 
> https://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Merchant_Id=1&Section_Id=494&Parent_id=305&Product_Id=1396244
> 
> A more classic example is Tom Park's from Leather Soul done by Alden, though I've never liked this particular color combination, and would not acquire it. But the shape is typical of an American shoe which I find works well for more casual styles. And other details are right, though I'd prefer blind eyelets.
> 
> 
> 
> Another shoe that Tom commissioned from Alden is a beautiful spectator in a gorgeous leather combination. I believe this leather combination would also make a great saddle shoe, perhaps with a crepe sole, which is a common element for traditional saddle shoes.


Very interesting. I always thought that Saddle shoes are meant to be some kind of suede or nubuck. I was really surprised at the first Alden.

I know AS make Saddle shoes and I've seen a couple of nice examples that probably haven't hit the streets yet (as part of my Factory visit). However, the first Alden pair do impress me a lot (and I've hardly seen many Alden shoes that impress me). They are definitely my favourite of the three.

ummm. I had quite definite plans for my next 3-4 pairs. However, you've given me some pause for thought.

Thanks again

Clint


----------



## Flanderian

You are again welcome.

The oldest form of saddle shoe with which I am familiar had black and white smooth leather and a red rubber sole. Though not a fine shoe, this is a good depiction of the style.



Were I not becoming a bit too long-in-the-tooth, I'd still be wearing it. It is a surprisingly handsome, though strictly casual, underpinning for all manner of clothing. Despite its dramatic color combination, it's astoundingly versatile and can be paired with grays, blues, greens and pretty much any earth tone as well, as can be seen from old AA/Esky illustrations, and from older photos.


----------



## emptym

Very nice, ClintonF. What are you planning for the other two?
I'm told the pair of black slip-ons will be sent out by the end of the week.
Here's another pic of them being made. Wonderful to see all different hands that went into their production:











Groover said:


> If you request Espresso with heavy burnishing you'll get the same finish as mine...


Thanks Groover.

I'm thinking I skip the captoe oxfords and take the plunge with a pair of balmoral boots. Haven't seen AS make a pair, but they're willing and are checking to see if they still have the patterns. If they do, I'll get a pair in your burnished Espresso, or possibly in brown shell.


----------



## clintonf

Flanderian said:


> You are again welcome.
> 
> The oldest form of saddle shoe with which I am familiar had black and white smooth leather and a red rubber sole. Though not a fine shoe, this is a good depiction of the style.
> 
> 
> 
> Were I not becoming a bit too long-in-the-tooth, I'd still be wearing it. It is a surprisingly handsome, though strictly casual, underpinning for all manner of clothing. Despite its dramatic color combination, it's astoundingly versatile and can be paired with grays, blues, greens and pretty much any earth tone as well, as can be seen from old AA/Esky illustrations, and from older photos.


Hi Flanderian, I'm not sure that I like the Sherman Brothers pair, but I do get what you mean. I don't think that I would have liked any of the saddle shoes, based upon the photos I'd previously seen, until I saw a pair in the "flesh". They are actually quite nice. I seriously would consider a pair, but I have to pace myself. My eyes are definitely bigger than my bank balance :crazy:.

If you can find any more pictures, perhaps they will convince me to petition AS for a similiar pair.

Many thanks

Clint


----------



## clintonf

emptym said:


> Very nice, ClintonF. What are you planning for the other two?
> I'm told the pair of black slip-ons will be sent out by the end of the week.
> Here's another pic of them being made. Wonderful to see all different hands that went into their production:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Groover.
> 
> I'm thinking I skip the captoe oxfords and take the plunge with a pair of balmoral boots. Haven't seen AS make a pair, but they're willing and are checking to see if they still have the patterns. If they do, I'll get a pair in your burnished Espresso, or possibly in brown shell.


Hi, I was going to enquire as to what happened to your pair. I look forward to the photos. You should receive them by next week (hopefully).

I don't want to give people the wrong impression (I'm not made of money, but I do have a bit of a shoe addiction and I'm selling some of my other shoes to fund new purchases), but I've got a double monk, Derby and possibly a chukka boot in the pipeline. I keep seeing ideas and want to have them made, but I really have to pace myself. I'm trying some unusual colours, which may not be to everyone's taste. However, they do promise to be well-made and a vast detour from what I've currently got.

Happy days.

Clint


----------



## Groover

When I visited the factory to collect my Stowe I had the good fortune to take a few pictures. Here are the best.

I'd like to take this opportunity to thank the management and staff at Alfred Sargent for their hospitality and allowing me to take these pictures.

1.

This is a machine that uses pressure to push down on the metal shape you can see in the forefront of the picture to cut the shape out of the leather.










2.

This is a skilled worker hand cutting the leather patterns out using an extremely sharp knife. The process known as 'clicking' takes many years to perfect.










3.

Same as above but this time the linings are being cut out.










4.

This is the knife used for 'clicking'










5.

Here we have the sections of a shoe (brogue in this case) being stitched together. Note the 'whiter' areas of the leather, this is where the edges have been scived to make them thinner, so that when stitched there is less bulk on the overlap.










6.

Here is a shoe being Handlasted.










7.

This is a picture of the machine that machine lasts shoes. Note the red criss-cross lines in the middle of the machine, these are used to line up the shoe central to the presses so to last it true.










8.

this is a picture of the welt stitched on and the shank installed. In the cavity created by the welt and the insole rib (the white strip running around the insole) is where the cork filling goes.










9.

The soles are now stuck on, and this picture illustrates the channel being cut ready for the soles to be stitched.










10.

Here the soles are being stitched, after this the channel is flattened down.










11.

This is the machine that put the heel on the shoe. When the heel is applied a fresh set of nail are sent down the white plastic pipes into the press ready for the next heel.










Unfortunately I didn't have time to take many more photos, however I am scheduled to return to the factory soon and will attempt to get some better shots.


----------



## kev777

Many thanks both Clint and Groover very very informative thread and posts. Great pics Groover :icon_smile_wink:


----------



## emptym

Wow! Thanks for the pics and commentary, Groover!


----------



## eagle2250

Seeing photos of the production process involved in creating a proper pair of shoes, really helps in putting the pricing of such in a proper perspective. Considering the obvious care with which the work is completed, makes the cost seem so much more reasonable!


----------



## clintonf

Hi Groover, looking at the pictures, they look great and serves as a reminder of the work that goes into making a quality shoe (just as eagle2250 commented on above).

When I think about my work and what I charge for it, then multiply it by 10 - 15 (an estimate of how many people are involved in making the shoe), then it kind of put things in perspective in terms of pricing.

Add to that, the Customer Service that I receive, then really the price we pay is significant, but ultimately worth it, especially in comparison with what I believe I get with other shoe makers.

Bravo Groover on the pictures.

Clint


----------



## Groover

Well my two pairs of walking boots arrived today.

I've had the Selkirk made in Walnut Outrigger (dark brown waxy) but without the imitation toe cap. Double leather sole and Dainite Heel. Veldtschoen construction. 88 Last

https://www.pediwear.co.uk/sargent/products/99.php

Also the Dumfries in Autumn Brown Burnished. Again double leather soles with a Dainite Heel. This style I requested to be Veldtschoen construction on the 88 last which meant the pattern had to be adjusted to suit.

https://www.pediwear.co.uk/sargent/products/37.php

The links to the pictures depict the stock shoe. I shall take some photos tomorrow of my boots.

Once again the staff at Alfred Sargent have gone above and beyond in accomodating my request, my thanks goes out to them.


----------



## Groover

As promised here are the pictures of my Alfred Sargent MTO boots:

Firstly this style is Dumfries in Autumn Brown Burnished, brogued boot with a bellows tongue. I had the 7 eyelets changed to 4 + 2 hooks + 1 eyelet, just a personal thing I wanted. Double leather soles with a Dainite Heel. This pattern was adjusted to accomdate a different last (88) and Veldtscheon construction, also to give a better fit on my smaller left foot.


----------



## Groover

Here are the second pair:

The style is Selkirk made in Walnut Brown Outrigger leather. I've had the toe cap stitching removed from the stock shoe and 3 eyelets replaced with hooks. Double leather sole and dainite heel.

With both pairs the service and advice I received from the staff at AS was fantastic. Going through the design and fit stages with the wonderful gentlemen in the pattern room was an education in itself. As others have already said, when you see for yourself the work that goes into making a pair of shoes or boots you develop a new found respect for all those involved in the process.


----------



## kev777

Fantastic boots Groover you have great taste , they are simply stunning. I hope to god you will wear them and not make them shelf queens. Enjoy them in real good health mate !!


----------



## Groover

kev777 said:


> Fantastic boots Groover you have great taste , they are simply stunning. I hope to god you will wear them and not make them shelf queens. Enjoy them in real good health mate !!


Thank you for your kind words. I can assure you they will be worn and worn well :thumbs-up:


----------



## WouldaShoulda

Nice!!

Now you can toss out those Dr Martens!!


----------



## Groover

WouldaShoulda said:


> Nice!!
> 
> Now you can toss out those Dr Martens!!


:biggrin2: I can assure you they went years ago


----------



## clintonf

Groover, they are solid boots. Made for walking and will probably last you forever. I've got a pair of rugged boots, but I'm not really a boot person. However, these are what I would consider to be boots (if that makes sense).

Well done.

Clint


----------



## emptym

clintonf said:


> Hi, I was going to enquire as to what happened to your pair. I look forward to the photos. You should receive them by next week (hopefully)...


After some delays due to the August vacations, they arrived a few days ago:








I love them. They fit perfectly. Thanks AS!


----------



## clintonf

The more I look at them, the more I like them.

Well done for your choice (and taste).

Clint


----------



## culverwood

emptym said:


>


I don't normally comment on peoples shoe pics but those are a really beautiful pair of shoes. Any more photos?


----------



## WouldaShoulda

Love those!!

One can not embellish perfection!!


----------



## emptym

clintonf said:


> The more I look at them, the more I like them.
> 
> Well done for your choice (and taste).


Thanks Clint!



culverwood said:


> I don't normally comment on peoples shoe pics but those are a really beautiful pair of shoes. Any more photos?


Thanks C! I just posted a thread on them.


WouldaShoulda said:


> Love those!!
> 
> One can not embellish perfection!!


That is high praise! Thank you. The craftspeople at AS did a marvelous job. Here are some pictures from the factory:






























































This is just a selection from the many pics they sent to tide me over while I waited.
I loved seeing the many hands that went into delivering these great shoes to me. I will enjoy them for decades to come. Thank you!


----------



## Groover

Congratulations!!

I'm not a wearer of slip on shoes, but I like yours, a lot.

The 99 last lends itself very well to that style I believe.

Enjoy them and wear them in good health.


----------



## clintonf

This is a fun pair of shoes, inspired by the past and the Museum of Northampton.

I got it as a "Special" from Alfred Sargent as part of another order of shoes (to come) 

Anyway, I honestly don't konw whether I can wear them, but they do fit well. Let's have at it.























































What do you think (I may regret asking)?

Clint


----------



## Groover

That sole really is something else. You know you can never wear them :icon_smile_big:


----------



## clintonf

Groover said:


> That sole really is something else. You know you can never wear them :icon_smile_big:


You know my "issues" G, don't you!!!


----------



## Groover

Yes I do know your 'issues', but if we can't over indulge once in a while when can we


----------



## clintonf

Groover said:


> Yes I do know your 'issues', but if we can't over indulge once in a while when can we


Don't say that, I don't need any more excuses!!!


----------



## emptym

I like the soles a lot, Clint. When I was in high school I got a leather carving kit and made a few things w/ similar designs. Twenty years later, my mom still uses daily a key case that I made for her.

What inspired you or the AS artisans? Looking forward to seeing your future pairs.



Groover said:


> Congratulations!!
> 
> I'm not a wearer of slip on shoes, but I like yours, a lot.
> 
> The 99 last lends itself very well to that style I believe.
> 
> Enjoy them and wear them in good health.


Thanks Groover. I've been enjoying them immensely. They were perfect for a couple of weekend trips I took, one to Seattle for a very rainy weekend.


----------



## clintonf

Thank you, I was just having a chat with my main contact within AS and we were discussing my next couple of pairs when we just got talking about the past and how some of the shoemakers used to make shoes to fit above the fireplace in standard houses.

He said that they were very decorative and I said that it would be cool to have something like that. So we discussed the rest of the shoes and that was that.

A few days later, he approached me with a pattern and said that he could make that into a sole pattern out of Oak Bark for me. We negotiated a (very good) price on the shoes, on the basis of the other shoes I'm having and he set to work.

So there you have it.

I'm hoping to get something out by Christmas, but I'm being a fussy customer and it's taking a fair amount of time to sort the design out.

Have you got any more planned?

Cheers

Clint



emptym said:


> I like the soles a lot, Clint. When I was in high school I got a leather carving kit and made a few things w/ similar designs. Twenty years later, my mom still uses daily a key case that I made for her.
> 
> What inspired you or the AS artisans? Looking forward to seeing your future pairs.
> 
> Thanks Groover. I've been enjoying them immensely. They were perfect for a couple of weekend trips I took, one to Seattle for a very rainy weekend.


----------



## emptym

clintonf said:


> Thank you, I was just having a chat with my main contact within AS and we were discussing my next couple of pairs when we just got talking about the past and how some of the shoemakers used to make shoes to fit above the fireplace in standard houses.
> 
> He said that they were very decorative and I said that it would be cool to have something like that. So we discussed the rest of the shoes and that was that.
> 
> A few days later, he approached me with a pattern and said that he could make that into a sole pattern out of Oak Bark for me. We negotiated a (very good) price on the shoes, on the basis of the other shoes I'm having and he set to work.
> 
> So there you have it.
> 
> I'm hoping to get something out by Christmas, but I'm being a fussy customer and it's taking a fair amount of time to sort the design out.
> 
> Have you got any more planned?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Clint


Sounds great! I just have the balmoral boots planned. Hope to work out the details with them soon. The plan is to tackle two extremes (from sleek, modern, black, dainite-soled slip ons to round toed, old-fashioned, brown, leather soled balmoral boots) and then to fill in the middle. Maybe something in shell cordovan.


----------



## Alfred Sargent

clintonf said:


> Thank you, I was just having a chat with my main contact within AS and we were discussing my next couple of pairs when we just got talking about the past and how some of the shoemakers used to make shoes to fit above the fireplace in standard houses.
> 
> Clint


These shoes were a lot of fun to make, the soles and heels were carved in the factory and certainly attracted a lot of attention.

They were, as Clinton said, concealed in chimneys and were seen as a good luck charm to ward off evil spirits. Some were also found above ovens, as the fireplace and oven were the central places of the home they were considered the most important to protect.

Interesting stuff, Northampton shoe museum is well worth a visit.


----------



## culverwood

Sorry to side-track this thread but do you have a factory shop Mr Alfred Sargent and if so when is it open?


----------



## Alfred Sargent

culverwood said:


> Sorry to side-track this thread but do you have a factory shop Mr Alfred Sargent and if so when is it open?


I'm afraid we don't, we do now have the website
www.alfredsargent.co.uk up and running and orders can be placed via that.

However, you are most welcome to visit us should you wish, in fact any other members would also be welcome.

Perhaps we should organise a day just for members of this forum, what do you think?


----------



## clintonf

I'm in!! We'll just have to organise a suitable day.

Mind you, I've already been, so I know what to expect:icon_smile_big:
Clint



Alfred Sargent said:


> I'm afraid we don't, we do now have the website
> www.alfredsargent.co.uk up and running and orders can be placed via that.
> 
> However, you are most welcome to visit us should you wish, in fact any other members would also be welcome.
> 
> Perhaps we should organise a day just for members of this forum, what do you think?


----------



## Groover

Alfred Sargent said:


> I'm afraid we don't, we do now have the website
> www.alfredsargent.co.uk up and running and orders can be placed via that.
> 
> However, you are most welcome to visit us should you wish, in fact any other members would also be welcome.
> 
> Perhaps we should organise a day just for members of this forum, what do you think?


Count me in for a visit :devil:


----------



## Orgetorix

Alfred Sargent said:


> I'm afraid we don't, we do now have the website
> www.alfredsargent.co.uk up and running and orders can be placed via that.
> 
> However, you are most welcome to visit us should you wish, in fact any other members would also be welcome.
> 
> Perhaps we should organise a day just for members of this forum, what do you think?


The website looks great. Would it be possible for you to specify which last is used for each shoe? Those of us who find a particular last a good fit would find it helpful to know what other shoes are available on that last.

Also, it would be nice to have a section on refurbishment specifying cost and how to send shoes back for repairs.


----------



## Alfred Sargent

Orgetorix said:


> The website looks great. Would it be possible for you to specify which last is used for each shoe? Those of us who find a particular last a good fit would find it helpful to know what other shoes are available on that last.
> 
> Also, it would be nice to have a section on refurbishment specifying cost and how to send shoes back for repairs.


Hi and many thanks for your observations, we shall get it done.

In the meantime please feel free to email us via the website with any questions you have, such as Last detail and we will get straight back to you.

Thanks again!


----------



## emptym

Alfred Sargent said:


> ...They were, as Clinton said, concealed in chimneys and were seen as a good luck charm to ward off evil spirits. Some were also found above ovens, as the fireplace and oven were the central places of the home they were considered the most important to protect.
> ...


Neat! Any idea why they thought shoes would ward off evil spirits?


Alfred Sargent said:


> Hi and many thanks for your observations, we shall get it done...!


In addition to naming the lasts, I think it would be great if you had side and overhead views of each last next to the others, for comparison.

Also, a photo gallery of special orders could be fun and helpful.


----------



## culverwood

Alred Sargent

In addition to the excellent suggestions above one other improvement (in my mind anyway) to your website would be to list the shoes by type after one has chosen the range in a sub-menu under headings Oxford, Derby, Norwegian, Slip-on, Boot etc. The current method with many very small pictures does not give the up-market impression one would expect from your company.


----------



## kev777

culverwood said:


> Alred Sargent
> 
> In addition to the excellent suggestions above one other improvement (in my mind anyway) to your website would be to list the shoes by type after one has chosen the range in a sub-menu under headings Oxford, Derby, Norwegian, Slip-on, Boot etc. The current method with many very small pictures does not give the up-market impression one would expect from your company.


+1 Good idea


----------



## Alfred Sargent

culverwood said:


> Alred Sargent
> 
> In addition to the excellent suggestions above one other improvement (in my mind anyway) to your website would be to list the shoes by type after one has chosen the range in a sub-menu under headings Oxford, Derby, Norwegian, Slip-on, Boot etc. The current method with many very small pictures does not give the up-market impression one would expect from your company.


Dear Sir,

We shall be making some improvements shortly to the website, thanks again for your help. Your input is greatly appreciated and valued.


----------



## Groover

*Latest AS MTO Offerings....1st Pair*

Here are my latest Alfred Sargent MTO.

The style is an Adelaide Brogue, close to one of the samples AS designed for their new range, combined with some changes I requested to incorporate my love of Edward Greens' Southwold.

Leather: Bruma Antique
Last: 724
Fitting: F
Sole: Fiddleback Oak Bark.

The sole is similar to that of my Stowe (a couple of pages back on this thread). This time, the designers wanted to try and bring the waist in tighter effectively making it much narrower when looking at the sole, it's also tucked in much tighter (at the waist) to the upper.

The last is not normally found on AS shoes, I however really like the shape and believe it would be very popular if more styles were available on it.

I'm really really pleased with how these have turned out, the folks at AS have once again excelled, my thanks go out to them, especially Chay, Brian & Steve.


----------



## Groover

*Latest AS MTO Offerings....2nd Pair*

Alfred Sargent Regent - Premier Range.

Leather: Burgundy Shell Cordovan
Style: Regent
Last: 109
Fitting: F
Sole: Oak Bark HAF, Rolled Waist

This is the first of two pairs of Shell Cordovan shoes I've had AS make for me. For a long time now I've been after a Wingtip & a Derby in Burgundy Shell.

Regent is from the Premier Range. I've had a black lining instead of natural and what I believe Edward Green call a HAF sole(??) This is a sole which is double leather under the ball of the foot but tapers to a single sole at the waist, enabling the rolled waist you see in the pictures.


----------



## Checkerboard 13

A beautifully constructed and very attractive pair of shoes. 
I would be curious to see how the look of the toe boxes (with the very square lines) evolves, as the shoes conform to your feet.

(This is in reference to the pair on the 724 last.)


----------



## Groover

*Latest AS MTO Offerings....3rd Pair*

Alfred Sargent Soho/Wells

Leather: Burgundy Shell Cordovan
Style: Soho/Wells
Last: 87
Fitting: F
Sole: Oak Bark HAF, Rolled Waist

This is the second of two pairs of Shell Cordovan shoes I've had AS make for me. These took a bit longer to make as I requested a bellows tongue and a pattern had to be made to fit the existing stock shoe.

I've had a black lining instead of natural and the HAF sole(??) I've detailed in the post above.


----------



## Groover

Checkerboard 13 said:


> A beautifully constructed and very attractive pair of shoes.
> I would be curious to see how the look of the toe boxes (with the very square lines) evolves, as the shoes conform to your feet.
> 
> (This is in reference to the pair on the 724 last.)


Thank you for your comments.

I'll post some pictures once I've worn them for a while


----------



## speedmaster

Beautiful, they look almost too nice to wear! :icon_smile_big:


----------



## emptym

Wow, Groover! All three are incredible! The welt stitches look very fine in particular.

I'm thinking I may have all my shoes in the future made by AS. I just received a pair of MTO shell cordovan boots by Vass, and they weren't quite what I was hoping for. So I'm debating trying to get Vass to exchange them or just selling them and asking AS to make the replacement.


----------



## kev777

Groover those are fantastic , Congrats my friend you have both too much time and money mate !!! :icon_smile:


----------



## Groover

kev777 said:


> Groover those are fantastic , Congrats my friend you have both too much time and money mate !!! :icon_smile:


Thanks Kev!

These are the last for a while!


----------



## Kingstonian

Both Clintonf and Groover have showed examples of top class work from Alfred Sargent.

I would usually expect an Adelaide to be a cap toe rather than brogue but with MTO you get what you want.

The cordovan blucher was interesting too, as it is not a shoe Sargent's advertise.

I agree that work on the website could certainly improve the way the brand is perceived. I know they offer channeled soles and whole cuts at competitive prices. There seems a lot more they can do - but you have to seek it yourself.


----------



## clintonf

G, I'm glad your pleased with them. I would be if I'd had them also.
The first one is my absolute favourite, followed by the 2nd. The 3rd one is not to my "taste" (read, not flamboyant enough), but I can see how well made they are.

Well done, both you and AS. It's good when someone has taste and there is a mechanism to channel that.

Thank you very much Kingstonian for your comments. Whilst I have a few shoes from different makers, I love the flexibility that AS offers.

If I had enough money, all my shoes would be AS branded, if only for the Customer Service that I've received.

G, wear the shoes in good health.

Clint


----------



## Ay329

I too enjoyed the pic shoes. 

Considering less than a year ago there were threads on here and SF regarding the demise of AS, these latest posts are a breath of fresh air in which we are witnessing the revival of brand during bleak economic times. I revival via good customer service and more importantly...excellent looking product

I am seeing quality work (at least aesthetically and in pictures) of shoes which could well compete with the likes of better known Northampton made shoes companies.


----------



## Orgetorix

Very nice. How does the fit of the other two lasts compare to the 87? My BB Peal shoes made by Sargent are on the 87 last, and it's the best fit for my feet I've found in any RTW shoe.


----------



## Alfred Sargent

Orgetorix said:


> The website looks great. Would it be possible for you to specify which last is used for each shoe? Those of us who find a particular last a good fit would find it helpful to know what other shoes are available on that last.
> 
> Also, it would be nice to have a section on refurbishment specifying cost and how to send shoes back for repairs.


Hi, Just an update to let you know that the last details have now been added as requested.

Many thanks.


----------



## harland

Nice shoes!


----------



## upnorth

Alfred Sargent said:


> Hi, Just an update to let you know that the last details have now been added as requested.
> 
> Many thanks.


Thanks for the update. I was wondering if it might be too unreasonable to ask for a topographic view of all the lasts on your RTW collection and possibly a description of each to be posted on the website, and if sizing up or down on any particular last is necessary.

One reason why I have not been able to commit to a pair of MTO shoes and the invitation to visit your factory is purely geographical; not being in the UK to be fully involved means I am unable to take full advantage of the MTO process.

The second is that some or dare I say most people, might not be entirely familiar with all the lasts that's available to AS. And ignorance may lead to selection of less than optimum fit. My experience with AS is only limited to a pair of sudbury monk and the thin red line loafer and although they fit fine, I just can't help but wonder if any other lasts might be better. My fear is that after having spent a sizeable amount of money, that the wrong choice of last/ size may dampen the entire MTO deal.

All the shoes posted in this thread looks fantastic, but I may just hold out for the new collection to arrive before making my decision.


----------



## Groover

Orgetorix said:


> Very nice. How does the fit of the other two lasts compare to the 87? My BB Peal shoes made by Sargent are on the 87 last, and it's the best fit for my feet I've found in any RTW shoe.


Apologies for the late reply.

I find the 87 to be the most generous of the AS lasts I've tried. However, I do take the same size in all of them. In an ideal world I could do with the 87 being a 1/4 size smaller.

The 109 is similar in width but has a longer tapered toe box.

The 724 is slightly narrower overall.


----------



## Mick_P

My MTO Culfords arrived yesterday, and although pretty standard (I merely asked for a subtly darker shade) and not nearly as individual as many of the boots and shoes in this thread, I thought you might like to take a look. I love them. These are my first AS boots and I trusted that when they told me that a standard 9 would fit fine, that it would (I have pretty standard feet). And they fit very well indeed. As anyone who has dealt with Alfred Sargent will know, the service was really excellent throughout. These will not be my last Alfred Sargents.

The Culford is made on last 89 in an F width.


----------



## Groover

Congratulations! very nice indeed. Love the colour.


----------



## Mick_P

Groover said:


> Congratulations! very nice indeed. Love the colour.


Thanks Groover. I'm really happy with the colour and put myself in the hands of Chay Cooper, letting him make the judgement. A wise decision.


----------



## Ay329

Mick P, I didn't care much for your new shoes

But once I saw them mated to corduroy trousers...I really liked them a lot...nice combo :aportnoy:


----------



## Groover

Mick_P said:


> Tput myself in the hands of Chay Cooper....


You're a brave man Mick :icon_smile_big:


----------



## clintonf

*My Christmas Treat*

Hi all, look what Father Christmas brought me (via TNT). I like them.

The photos below were not taken by me, because my photography skills are crap.

Enjoy and Merry Christmas to one and all, especially Alfred Sargent Footwear.























































Happy holidays

Clint


----------



## jjl5000

Very nice indeed :aportnoy:


----------



## David Bresch

Well obviously AS fixed the brown coloration problems I onced bitched about.


----------



## Alfred Sargent

Glad that you are happy with them Clint.

I would like to take this opportunity to thank all of our customers and wish them and all members of this forum a happy Christmas and prosperous New Year.

Best Wishes from all at Alfred Sargent.


----------



## Alfred Sargent

David Bresch said:


> Well obviously AS fixed the brown coloration problems I onced bitched about.


Dear David,

Your points were taken on board, in fact customers ordering via our website can now ask for their shoes to be polished to their requirments.
Your comments have helped us, thank you.


----------



## Sir Walter

clintonf said:


> Hi all, look what Father Christmas brought me (via TNT). I like them.
> 
> The photos below were not taken by me, because my photography skills are crap.
> 
> Enjoy and Merry Christmas to one and all, especially Alfred Sargent Footwear.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy holidays
> 
> Clint


I looked at the AS website and could not find those shoes. If you don't mind me asking, What is the model name, do the shoes come in an F fitting and are they on the same last as the other Monks? One more question, are these special orders or RTW?


----------



## Kingstonian

^ The style is very similar to John Lobb Chapels.

https://www.johnlobb.com/uk/#/Ready-To-Wear/modele_a_boucle/prestige/chapel


----------



## clintonf

Sir Walter said:


> I looked at the AS website and could not find those shoes. If you don't mind me asking, What is the model name, do the shoes come in an F fitting and are they on the same last as the other Monks? One more question, are these special orders or RTW?


 Hi, these are part of the Made to Order shoes. In fact nearly all of the shoes here (all that I've posted) are MTO. See my next response for more details. Cheers Clint


----------



## clintonf

Kingstonian said:


> ^ The style is very similar to John Lobb Chapels.
> 
> https://www.johnlobb.com/uk/#/Ready-To-Wear/modele_a_boucle/prestige/chapel


 Hi, you've kinda got me there. I was looking for a double monk which was a little different to that of the standard monks and I must have sub-consciously seen the shoes that you mentioned above (they do look fairly similar). However, these shoes have basically been designed from scratch from some crap drawings that I made (sub-conscious images notwidthstanding) and designed to my specification. So I guess you can blame me for the lack of originality. I do really like what they've done though (very much). Cheers Clint


----------



## David Bresch

For the record, any issues I ever had with Alfred Sargent shoes had to do with my purchasing them sight unseen, rather than with any problem with the shoes per se. And I have had similar problems with other Northampton brands like Trickers.


----------



## Mick_P

Very handsome Clinton. Can't beat a bit of double buckle action.


----------



## upnorth

Any updates on the new RTW?


----------



## dwebber18

The shoes shown on this thread are some of the most gorgeous I have ever seen. I think the soles are fantastic. I hope that I can afford a pair one day.


----------



## clintonf

From what I understand, they will be launched towards the end of February to Mid March.

I look forward to seeing what they've got to offer.

Cheers

Clint



upnorth said:


> Any updates on the new RTW?


----------



## Alfred Sargent

They should be ready for order around the time Clint mentions below. What I may be able to do is make them available to the members here a bit earlier, if you wish.... Regards, Chay.



clintonf said:


> From what I understand, they will be launched towards the end of February to Mid March.
> 
> I look forward to seeing what they've got to offer.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Clint


----------



## Sir Walter

Alfred Sargent said:


> They should be ready for order around the time Clint mentions below. What I may be able to do is make them available to the members here a bit earlier, if you wish.... Regards, Chay.


Is there anyway you could provide some insight as to what exactly is possible with the made to order, in terms of duplicating a model of shoe and the cost for such services. If I have read correctly, the last would have to be one that is currently used in the Alfred Sergeant lines but you are able to somewhat copy other styles of shoes as long as the last is that of one you currently offer. Also does additional cost only come into play with the more elaborate sole treatment, or would a request to add suede also increase cost?


----------



## SeptemberSun

I just bought a pair of Alfred Sargent Epsoms as a first foray into the brand. They are an exceedingly gorgeous cap toe and I highly recommend them...I wore them all day and night to a wedding in 40C heat and walked home a little over 2Ks. They looked brand new the next day!


----------



## Groover

My latest pair from Alfred Sargent arrived this morning:

Adelaide Toe Cap
Vintage Cherry with extra Burnishing
724/F Last
Oak Bark Fiddle Back Sole

The pictures have been taken this evening so the flash has lightened them somewhat. When I get chance (and some decent daylight) I'll take some pictures outdoors.


----------



## Sir Walter

Groover said:


> My latest pair from Alfred Sargent arrived this morning:
> 
> Adelaide Toe Cap
> Vintage Cherry with extra Burnishing
> 724/F Last
> Oak Bark Fiddle Back Sole
> 
> The pictures have been taken this evening so the flash has lightened them somewhat. When I get chance (and some decent daylight) I'll take some pictures outdoors.


Those are gorgeous.


----------



## clintonf

Groover said:


> My latest pair from Alfred Sargent arrived this morning:
> 
> Adelaide Toe Cap
> Vintage Cherry with extra Burnishing
> 724/F Last
> Oak Bark Fiddle Back Sole
> 
> The pictures have been taken this evening so the flash has lightened them somewhat. When I get chance (and some decent daylight) I'll take some pictures outdoors.


G, those are some REALLY, seriously nice shoes. I like seeing what you get as they give me ideas.

Bravo!!!

Clint


----------



## jjl5000

Groover said:


> My latest pair from Alfred Sargent arrived this morning:
> 
> Adelaide Toe Cap
> Vintage Cherry with extra Burnishing
> 724/F Last
> Oak Bark Fiddle Back Sole


Truely fabulous :aportnoy::aportnoy::aportnoy:

Well done indeed!


----------



## Orgetorix

Those are gorgeous.


----------



## chrstc

Hi Groover,

Totally stunning shoes!

Chris.


----------



## Groover

clintonf said:


> G, those are some REALLY, seriously nice shoes. I like seeing what you get as they give me ideas.
> 
> Bravo!!!
> 
> Clint


Many thanks Clint.

I love them, they are far and beyond better than anything I've had before.

Haven't you got enough already anyway ?? :icon_smile_wink:


----------



## Groover

jjl5000 said:


> Truely fabulous :aportnoy::aportnoy::aportnoy:
> 
> Well done indeed!


Thank you.

I knew you'd love a bit of Adelaide porn:icon_cheers:


----------



## Sir Walter

clintonf said:


> Hi, these are part of the Made to Order shoes. In fact nearly all of the shoes here (all that I've posted) are MTO. See my next response for more details. Cheers Clint


If you don't mind me asking, what last were used for the double monk straps? Are they on the 99 last?


----------



## kev777

I cant believe youve taken delivery of a shoe that obviously wont look good on you!!

I will of course get rid of these for you at no cost and will pay the postage as im a good friend, send them as soon as you like.

Try not to make the same mistake again Graham.


Joking for gods sake, theyre fantastic mate great choice and design wear them in great health.:icon_smile_wink:


----------



## Groover

kev777 said:


> I cant believe youve taken delivery of a shoe that obviously wont look good on you!!
> 
> I will of course get rid of these for you at no cost and will pay the postage as im a good friend, send them as soon as you like.
> 
> Try not to make the same mistake again Graham.
> 
> Joking for gods sake, theyre fantastic mate great choice and design wear them in great health.:icon_smile_wink:


:icon_hailthee:

I'll post them tomorrow Kev!!

Joking aside, I've never been one to stand and admire my shoes, they've always been bought on the following basis:

1. They fit me well.
2. I like them.
3. They will last me a long time and I'll enjoy them.

These however, may never come out of their box! I like them that much. God, I'm turning into Clinton as I type :devil:


----------



## kev777

Groover said:


> These however, may never come out of their box! I like them that much. God, I'm turning into Clinton as I type :devil:


Totally get what your saying but they really need to be seen my friend :icon_smile_wink:

Could the world cope with 2 Clintons?? Or could Alfred Sargent cope with 2 Clintons :crazy::icon_smile_big::icon_smile_big::icon_smile_big:


----------



## emptym

Very nice, Groover! An interesting last. I hadn't heard of it before. What else does AS have up its sleeve?


----------



## clintonf

Sir Walter said:


> If you don't mind me asking, what last were used for the double monk straps? Are they on the 99 last?


I have no problem in you (or others) asking me questions about the shoes. It is indeed on the 99 Last. I find that this last fits me most comfortably of all the AS lasts.

Thanks

Clint


----------



## clintonf

Groover said:


> :icon_hailthee:
> 
> I'll post them tomorrow Kev!!
> 
> Joking aside, I've never been one to stand and admire my shoes, they've always been bought on the following basis:
> 
> 1. They fit me well.
> 2. I like them.
> 3. They will last me a long time and I'll enjoy them.
> 
> These however, may never come out of their box! I like them that much. God, I'm turning into Clinton as I type :devil:





kev777 said:


> Totally get what your saying but they really need to be seen my friend :icon_smile_wink:
> 
> Could the world cope with 2 Clintons?? Or could Alfred Sargent cope with 2 Clintons :crazy::icon_smile_big::icon_smile_big::icon_smile_big:


No comment :icon_smile_big:. I did actually wear my Cliff Roberts Brogues today (for the first time). I don't know whether I'll make that mistake again. 

Regards

Clint


----------



## Groover

emptym said:


> Very nice, Groover! An interesting last. I hadn't heard of it before. What else does AS have up its sleeve?


Until I had my brogues (see a couple of pages back) I wasn't aware of it either.

According to AS it's a stock last that isn't used in the current catalogue, personally I think it compliments that style very well.

I'm not certain on exact numbers but I do know that AS have a LOT of lasts to choose from.


----------



## Sir Walter

Can anyone comment on the difference in shape between the 99 and the 87 lasts. Which is more sleeker and is either close in shape to the C&J 348?


----------



## Groover

Sir Walter said:


> Can anyone comment on the difference in shape between the 99 and the 87 lasts. Which is more sleeker and is either close in shape to the C&J 348?


The 87 is wider and rounder than the 99. The 99 sleeker and bordering on soft square.

Neither are anything like the 348, thankfully.


----------



## dukekook

Groover said:


> My latest pair from Alfred Sargent arrived this morning:
> 
> Adelaide Toe Cap
> Vintage Cherry with extra Burnishing
> 724/F Last
> Oak Bark Fiddle Back Sole
> 
> The pictures have been taken this evening so the flash has lightened them somewhat. When I get chance (and some decent daylight) I'll take some pictures outdoors.


:icon_hailthee: Just beautiful, as many before me have said. And I told my wife I was about done buying shoes... I guess I'm sick like most everyone else here. I'll be drooling over these for a week or so.


----------



## clintonf

AS Whisky Double Sole on 99F

I like. I hope you do also. No more to say!!!





































Clint


----------



## Sir Walter

Congratulations Clint, wear them in good health and may you have many years of good service.


----------



## Sir Walter

clintonf said:


> Here's my final pair before the new range hits the street (I hope - can't afford any more).
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Clint


Clint are these on the 99 last?


----------



## clintonf

Sir Walter said:


> Clint are these on the 99 last?


To be honest, I cannot remember. I'll get back to you once I've checked.

Thanks

Clint


----------



## Ay329

Wow, the Holy Grail of comfortable Northampton shoes...the side gussetted LAZYMAN :aportnoy::aportnoy:


----------



## clintonf

clintonf said:


> To be honest, I cannot remember. I'll get back to you once I've checked.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Clint


The Lazy man is on the 99 Last.

Cheers

Clint


----------



## Sir Walter

clintonf said:


> The Lazy man is on the 99 Last.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Clint


Thanks Clint. Its amazing how different the shape of the lazyman shoes look compared to the recent blutchers you posted and they both are on the 99 last. Do you find the 99 last to be sleeker looking than the 87?


----------



## drjmk

Extremely handsome!


----------



## Groover

clintonf said:


> AS Whisky Double Sole on 99F
> 
> I like. I hope you do also. No more to say!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clint


Oooooh whiskey shell! I like them....a lot.

Congratulations Clint, welcome to Cordovan!


----------



## Groover

If anyone ever wondered what a cordovan shell looks like, here's a couple of shells that might appear on this thread in the future..... :icon_smile_wink:


----------



## clintonf

Thank you very much, G.

Regards

Clint


----------



## clintonf

These are not mine and they are posted in the *Artisans' Itineraries *Forum. However, they look so nice that I thought I'd put them here also.

MTO.




























Cheers

Clint


----------



## bigbris1

Groover, I love the color & styling on these.



Groover said:


> Leather: Bruma Antique
> Last: 724
> Fitting: F
> Sole: Fiddleback Oak Bark.


Clint, these have moved me to order a pair.



clintonf said:


> Cheers
> 
> Clint


I think I'm going to order the bottom shoe, in the color of Groover's shoe above, but with a similar toe cap as pictured here:


----------



## kev777

Groover said:


> If anyone ever wondered what a cordovan shell looks like, here's a couple of shells that might appear on this thread in the future..... :icon_smile_wink:


Ok ive bitten !!!! What you having these made into ??? Any clues???


----------



## gman-17

bigbris1 said:


> Groover, I love the color & styling on these.
> 
> Clint, these have moved me to order a pair.
> 
> I think I'm going to order the bottom shoe, in the color of Groover's shoe above, but with a similar toe cap as pictured here:


I think I am going with a pair of AS' in 2010. I love these.


----------



## gman-17

clintonf said:


> These are not mine and they are posted in the *Artisans' Itineraries *Forum. However, they look so nice that I thought I'd put them here also.
> 
> MTO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Clint


These are truly beautiful shoes!!! I love these. I may have to duplicate a pair in 2010. Hmmm. . . . I can't decide the double monks, the perf captoes or the nice light wingtip. Hmmmm


----------



## clintonf

gman-17 said:


> These are truly beautiful shoes!!! I love these. I may have to duplicate a pair in 2010. Hmmm. . . . I can't decide the double monks, the perf captoes or the nice light wingtip. Hmmmm


LOL. With the shoes that you already have, I'm surprised that you'd be undecided. Why not try them all.

I just wished I had enough money to do so. When I visited the factory, I couldn't believe the number of different designs that AS already have.

Having never been to any other shoe factory, I don't know whether this is the "norm". However, combine the above with the service that I've been given and I don't really need to look elsewhere.

I may, in fact create a thread asking for people's experience with different shoemakers. Simply out of curiosity.

Cheers

Clint


----------



## gman-17

clintonf said:


> LOL. With the shoes that you already have, I'm surprised that you'd be undecided. Why not try them all.
> 
> I just wished I had enough money to do so. When I visited the factory, I couldn't believe the number of different designs that AS already have.
> 
> Having never been to any other shoe factory, I don't know whether this is the "norm". However, combine the above with the service that I've been given and I don't really need to look elsewhere.
> 
> I may, in fact create a thread asking for people's experience with different shoemakers. Simply out of curiosity.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Clint


Clint,

Even I have limits to what I can get--especially with the pound / dollar differential. I am going to try a pair or two of AS shoes in 2010. I really believe they are quite beautiful. Pics will follow----of course.


----------



## clintonf

gman-17 said:


> Clint,
> 
> Even I have limits to what I can get--especially with the pound / dollar differential. I am going to try a pair or two of AS shoes in 2010. I really believe they are quite beautiful. Pics will follow----of course.


I know exactly what you mean!!

Look forward to seeing pictures of them Sir.

Cheers

Clint


----------



## Groover

As promised a follow up with some pictures of my Adelaides taken in natural daylight. The colour is a little closer to the reality, and the burnishing is clearer to see:


----------



## kev777

^^^ WOW
Nothing much else needs saying really


----------



## Groover

Checkerboard 13 said:


> A beautifully constructed and very attractive pair of shoes.
> I would be curious to see how the look of the toe boxes (with the very square lines) evolves, as the shoes conform to your feet.
> 
> (This is in reference to the pair on the 724 last.)


Hi,

As promised here are some follow up pictures of the 724 lasted brogues now they've been worn on a dozen or so occasions.

As you can see the lines of the shoe have remained, the use of lasted trees helps massively.


----------



## clintonf

Groover said:


> Hi,
> 
> As promised here are some follow up pictures of the 724 lasted brogues now they've been worn on a dozen or so occasions.
> 
> As you can see the lines of the shoe have remained, the use of lasted trees helps massively.


They almost look new G, well done. I almost feel like wearing mine now. :icon_smile_big:


----------



## gman-17

Clint and Groover, you two keep complicating my life by posting these pictures. In the end, I see several pair in my future. The Adelaides are truly beautiful.


----------



## clintonf

Guess what I found!!!



Alfred Sargent said:


> As promised, I have took a couple of pictures of three of the AS Handgrade styles... I thought you would prefer to see colours other than black. The oak bark handpainted fiddleback sole is standard across the range. Apologies, my photography is not the best!
> The wholecut is named Milton, the Adelaide brogue, Carrol and the loafer, Keats. Regards, Chay.


----------



## emptym

Groover said:


> ...


The sunlight brings out the complexity of the color. Gorgeous.

I also love the shoe trees: plain and practical, yet elegant.


----------



## Orgetorix

I don't think it's too early to say that with this new Handgrade line, AS is in the process of leapfrogging several spots up the RTW English shoe hierarchy. Whereas previously I'd have said that the top three spots were occupied by G&G, EG, and C&J (as far as the major RTW makers go), it doesn't seem rash to say AS have supplanted C&J and may give EG a run for their money.

It's wonderful to have another shoemaker returning to really fantastic construction techniques and giving more competition at the top end of the craft!


----------



## Checkerboard 13

To my eye, the manner in which wear has very subtly softened the angularity of the lines of the shoes has enhanced their beauty further still.



Groover said:


> Hi,
> 
> As promised here are some follow up pictures of the 724 lasted brogues now they've been worn on a dozen or so occasions.
> 
> As you can see the lines of the shoe have remained, the use of lasted trees helps massively.


----------



## gaseousclay

Packard said:


> So others have said. But they have been more than a little laxidasical in responding to my e-mails. It's been over 24 hours and no response yet.


re pediwear, I had the same lack of response from them as well. I also came across a thread via styleforum that gave them less than glowing reviews. i'm sure there are plenty of customers that've had great experiences with them but I opted to go with Bodileys for my shoe purchase instead (even though they didn't have my shoe in stock :crazy


----------



## gman-17

gaseousclay said:


> re pediwear, I had the same lack of response from them as well. I also came across a thread via styleforum that gave them less than glowing reviews. i'm sure there are plenty of customers that've had great experiences with them but I opted to go with Bodileys for my shoe purchase instead (even though they didn't have my shoe in stock :crazy


Gentlemen,

Speak directly to AS. Chay Cooper will answer ASAP. Excellent customer service top notch team. Go directly to their website.


----------



## bigbris1

gman-17 said:


> Gentlemen,
> 
> Speak directly to AS. Chay Cooper will answer ASAP. Excellent customer service top notch team. Go directly to their website.


I agree. I just met Chay and he's a perfect gentleman and patiently answered any & all questions I asked. The range of shoes is excellent and I look forward to receiving mine.

Thanks to Clint & Groover for the inspiration!


----------



## ToryBoy

Orgetorix said:


> Whereas previously I'd have said that the top three spots were occupied by G&G, EG, and C&J (as far as the major RTW makers go), it doesn't seem rash to say AS have supplanted C&J and may give EG a run for their money.


Are you counting John Lobb as French


----------



## gman-17

Through AAAC I have been lucky enough to be exposed to a number of different artisans who despite tremendous odds provide not only a quality workable product but a beautiful product as well. Through AAAC I have had the pleasure to meet Chay Cooper of Alfred Sargent. Participants here know I enjoy quality shoes and great customer service. I wanted to share with you pictures of the Hadleigh which are avaialble from the Alfred Sargent website. Great shoes that you should seriously think about adding to your collection.

G


----------



## gman-17

Some more pictures



















These shoes can be purchased directly from the company. I foreget what the actual price is to the U.S. but they are 215 GBP less the VAT. They are beautiful at any price and a bargain at that price.

. . . . .and yes I need to clean my fireplace


----------



## chrstc

Orgetorix said:


> I don't think it's too early to say that with this new Handgrade line, AS is in the process of leapfrogging several spots up the RTW English shoe hierarchy. Whereas previously I'd have said that the top three spots were occupied by G&G, EG, and C&J (as far as the major RTW makers go), it doesn't seem rash to say AS have supplanted C&J and may give EG a run for their money.
> 
> It's wonderful to have another shoemaker returning to really fantastic construction techniques and giving more competition at the top end of the craft!


Hello,

For what it's worth I have had two neutral sources from Northampton (involved in the shoe industry at the highest level but not directly affiliated with any factory) tell me that AS is now the RTW maker to beat in their opinion. High praise indeed and proof that Sargent have performed a remarkable brand reinvention turnaround in a very short period of time. They certainly do make some wonderful shoes as this thread demonstrates. Thanks to everyone for sharing their pictures.

Chris.


----------



## StephenRG

I saw the new range at the Warwick Hotel last night courtesy Chay Cooper - wonderful! An impressive performance overall from AS.


----------



## upnorth

No one took pictures?


----------



## clintonf

upnorth said:


> No one took pictures?


+1. Where are the pictures?


----------



## Groover

clintonf said:


> +1. Where are the pictures?


+1

Perhaps Chay should have taken his own photographer....:icon_smile_wink:


----------



## clintonf

Groover said:


> +1
> 
> Perhaps Chay should have taken his own photographer....:icon_smile_wink:


Now that would be good. A decent quality photographer would be welcome. I wonder where we'd get one of them? :icon_smile_big:


----------



## LordOfTheFlies

I met Chay as well at the Warwick yesterday. I trudged through the storm and made it in just so I could meet him!

I have some pictures...but alas I forgot to take a picture of Chay himself! I was so impressed by the shoes and by the whole fitting process that I, being the bum that I am, forgot to take HIS picture.

Found out that the custom shoe trees they use are made using the last for the shoe! Now that's cool!

Shoe tree price is £100 though...so yikes!


----------



## LordOfTheFlies

Pics. Sorry for the lousy quality. Of course I only thought of taking pics after I got there....and these were on my lousy blackberry.....

Chay measuring my cockeyed feet.










New hand made line....










Additional new line










Custom made shoe tree










Tools to measure


----------



## emptym

Thanks. The new trees are beautiful.


----------



## junkyard_sal

*AS*

Are these available at Sky Valet in DC?

I am interested. I am on the bid for two new pair of dress shoes this year.

My Vass and Westons would like company in the rotation.


----------



## Orgetorix

junkyard_sal said:


> Are these available at Sky Valet in DC?
> 
> I am interested. I am on the bid for two new pair of dress shoes this year.
> 
> My Vass and Westons would like company in the rotation.


TMK the handgrades aren't available at any retail locations, yet. But you should talk to the folks at Sky Valet and make sure they know about the line--I'm sure they'll be willing to carry them once the line is released.


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## LordOfTheFlies

emptym said:


> Thanks. The new trees are beautiful.


Also the tree Chay brought was obviously not made of Cedar... that was just a sample.

The trees to be had will be Cedar.


----------



## gman-17

Orgetorix said:


> TMK the handgrades aren't available at any retail locations, yet. But you should talk to the folks at Sky Valet and make sure they know about the line--I'm sure they'll be willing to carry them once the line is released.


Gentlemen,

I don't mean to take business away from Sky Valet but my understanding is they will be selling the hand mades direct. I understand that Chay and the Sargent bros. are working on a few different ideas to help purchasers establish fit. Unfortunately, the pictures, either mine of the Hadleigh or those posted by others, just don't capture the quality of the shoes. They are amazingly beautiful but also sturdy construction. The leathers, both the upper and linings, are very soft and supple. Great stuff. Look forward to more posts from everyone.


----------



## erasmus

Here are a couple of photos:

https://sleevehead.blogspot.com/2010/02/alfred-sargent-trunkshow-new-handgrade.html


----------



## Alfred Sargent

*New York*

Dear All,

A sincere thank you to everyone who braved the snowy conditions to visit me at The Warwick Hotel in New York.
I am, as some of you know, more at home working on the shoes than showing them, but the kind comments and friendly conversation from everyone that I met made me feel most welcome and at ease.
The visit was an enormous success, to the extent that I have had to curtail the introductory price offer - I never expected the volume of interest I received, it was flattering to say the least.
Right from the beginning of this journey with Clint's very first MTO, I have as mentioned been astounded by the comments displayed and I made a conscious decision that I wanted to give a offer as generous back to the forum's, I am glad that some of you have benefitted and saved yourselves in the region of $400 by ordering when with me.
I am also exceptionally happy to announce that AS Handgrade will now be permanent MTO option at possibly the most well regarded and beautifully presented shop in New York, Leffot.
Leffot is based in the West Village, 10 Christopher Street. The shop is only enhanced by its owner Mr Steven Taffel, who as I saw when at the shop, displays a level of service unsurpassed and sadly far too infrequently found. 
We plan on introducing more styles to the range shortly and will gladly post pictures if you wish.
Kindest thanks again, Chay.


----------



## gman-17

Alfred Sargent said:


> Dear All,
> 
> A sincere thank you to everyone who braved the snowy conditions to visit me at The Warwick Hotel in New York.
> I am, as some of you know, more at home working on the shoes than showing them, but the kind comments and friendly conversation from everyone that I met made me feel most welcome and at ease.
> The visit was an enormous success, to the extent that I have had to curtail the introductory price offer - I never expected the volume of interest I received, it was flattering to say the least.
> Right from the beginning of this journey with Clint's very first MTO, I have as mentioned been astounded by the comments displayed and I made a conscious decision that I wanted to give a offer as generous back to the forum's, I am glad that some of you have benefitted and saved yourselves in the region of $400 by ordering when with me.
> I am also exceptionally happy to announce that AS Handgrade will now be permanent MTO option at possibly the most well regarded and beautifully presented shop in New York, Leffot.
> Leffot is based in the West Village, 10 Christopher Street. The shop is only enhanced by its owner Mr Steven Taffel, who as I saw when at the shop, displays a level of service unsurpassed and sadly far too infrequently found.
> We plan on introducing more styles to the range shortly and will gladly post pictures if you wish.
> Kindest thanks again, Chay.


Chay,

This really is excellent news. Leffot is a great place I look forward to seeing the AS Handgrades on the Leffot blog.

G


----------



## Leather man

So does this mean that the shoes are no longer available at £450? If so what is the new price?


----------



## upnorth

looks like the new ranges were very well received.


----------



## Checkerboard 13

gman-17 said:


> I wanted to share with you pictures of the Hadleigh which are avaialble from the Alfred Sargent website. Great shoes that you should seriously think about adding to your collection.
> 
> G


The Hadleighs are my current favorite pair of shoes. (I wore them just today. If it weren't for wanting to give them a rest for a couple of days, I would wear them tomorrow!)


----------



## Alfred Sargent

*AS Handgrade*

The recommended retail price for AS Handgrade is £640. 
We still continue to offer MTO on all of our shoes.

Regards, Chay.


----------



## Sir Walter

Alfred Sargent said:


> The recommended retail price for AS Handgrade is £640.
> We still continue to offer MTO on all of our shoes.
> 
> Regards, Chay.


It gives a bad impression to say one thing and do another. It is unfortunate that the members of the forum were lead to believe the shoes would be offered at 450 then told the price is 640 and the introductory timeline will not be honored. Maybe money can be gained but so too can mistrust and a bad reputation. Good luck with your new line.


----------



## joenobody0

I don't want to create any bad blood with Chay, because he seems like a good guy, but this is most disappointing. At a 1.5 exchange rate, this is $960 up from $675. I believe this price does _not _include lasted shoe trees.

I can't honestly say, no matter how good an impression Chay has made, that I'd give these shoes much thought over a pair of Ed Greens, or G&G's.

I'm sorry if that came across as harsh. I wish your company all the success in the world. 


*
*


----------



## Pengranger

At £450, I thought the AS was genuinely market leading. I was considering a pair myself. At £640, this is G&G, EG and JLP territory.

At this price, AS need a differentiator, which I don't currently believe they have. This seems to be a very quick way to dull everyone's ethusiasm.


----------



## Alfred Sargent

*Alfred Sargent*

Gentlemen,

I very much, as always, appreciate your honesty and feedback.

I made this offer as a thank you to the forum members and Andy for the kindness shown, it has been humbling.

I apologise, and will honour what I offered. I have made some good friends via this forum and have I hope shown these gentleman that I deliver what I promise.
The offer stands and a lesson is learned. Please contact me direct at [email protected] and I will be happy to assist you.

Kind regards,

Chay.


----------



## Sir Walter

Thank you Sir, You have made a good decision that I am sure will pay great dividends in the future. I hope as I am sure other do, that we are able to see the new Handgrade line up in full soon. I look forward to seeing the new offers and hope to be making a purchase myself.


----------



## gman-17

I had the distinct pleasure of speaking with Chay today. Chay has worked at Aflred Sargent since he was 17 and his pride in the name and what they are now trying to accomplish is quite genuine. What struck me most in talking with Chay, besides his absolute passion for shoes and shoemaking, is the humility of the man. I know he has messaged many people here and done everything he can to make good on the promises they made. I do believe they were overwhelmed by strength of the response. For those of us that love great shoes this is excellent news. Clearly Alfred Sargent is getting themselves together in how they market and sell the new lines, but I believe they are committed to offering great value for a reasonable price. I just wish there was a Leffot here in Chicago where I could just stop by and see them all in person . . . . .


----------



## rkipperman

clintonf said:


> Hi all, look what Father Christmas brought me (via TNT). I like them.
> 
> The photos below were not taken by me, because my photography skills are crap.
> 
> Enjoy and Merry Christmas to one and all, especially Alfred Sargent Footwear.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy holidays
> 
> Clint


:aportnoy: drool worthy


----------



## Groover

Had a nice surprise today...

These:



















Have become these:

Alfred Sargent Stowe
Whiskey Shell MTO
99F Last


----------



## gman-17

Groover said:


> Had a nice surprise today...
> 
> Alfred Sargent Stowe
> Whiskey Shell MTO
> 99F Last


Those are excellent. I love the transformation. :icon_smile_wink:


----------



## gaseousclay

Groover said:


> Had a nice surprise today...


nice! i'm thinking of either getting the Stowe or the Stratfords for my next shoe purchase.


----------



## Groover

*AS Handgrade - New Release*

Unfortunately these don't belong to me.

From the new AS Handgrade line, style called Keats. The colour is chestnut with burnishing in the throat and on the heel & toe area. Fiddleback waist is standard on this range.

For more updates Chay has a blog

A few pictures and some close up shots:


----------



## chrstc

Hi Groover,

Beautiful shoes as always. what I find particularly interesting is the heel counter. That peaked counter was a Peal & Co trademark (I've just ordered it on my new pair from Fosters and was discussing it with Mr Moore there the other day) and I wonder if AS are using it as a result of the work they're doing on the Brooks Brothers Peal & Co range? On the other hand maybe it's pure coincidence. Lovely looking shoes whatever and thanks for posting,

Chris.


----------



## Grenadier

Any thoughts on Alfred Sargents' ability to accommodate EEE-width shoes with the Handmade service?


----------



## bengal-stripe

chrstc said:


> That peaked counter was a Peal & Co trademark (I've just ordered it on my new pair from Fosters and was discussing it with Mr Moore there the other day)


Edward Green uses that peaked heal counter as well, for example on the _'Falkirk'_ for many, many years. 
Here is the _'Southwold'_, a much more recent design from maybe 2004:

Just like the short wingtip (also on the _'Southwold'_), it is probably one of those shoe design features 
that has been around since Victorian times, but gets very rarely used these days.

If they do get dug out, they have a certain 'novelty value'.


----------



## Alfred Sargent

azlawstudent said:


> Any thoughts on Alfred Sargents' ability to accommodate EEE-width shoes with the Handmade service?


AS Handgrade are made to order, as such they can be made in whatever fitting you request.

Regards, Chay.


----------



## upnorth

This is how I envision a good U throat adelaide will look like but with a more traditional/ longer type of wingtip and medallion.



bengal-stripe said:


> Edward Green uses that peaked heal counter as well, for example on the _'Falkirk'_ for many, many years.
> Here is the _'Southwold'_, a much more recent design from maybe 2004:
> 
> Just like the short wingtip (also on the _'Southwold'_), it is probably one of those shoe design features
> that has been around since Victorian times, but gets very rarely used these days.
> 
> If they do get dug out, they have a certain 'novelty value'.


----------



## Groover

These arrived today they're from the new AS Exclusive Range, same as my Cherry pair posted a while back but this time in Chestnut burnished.


----------



## chrstc

Groover said:


> These arrived today they're from the new AS Exclusive Range, same as my Cherry pair posted a while back but this time in Chestnut burnished.


Hello,

Beautiful shoes as always Groover but the photos appear to show a belmish on the soles of the shoes. After all, it clearly can't be down to the fact that you've actually worn them...and on the day they arrived at that.. EDIT: Actually that might be a genuine case of light causing a blemish in the photos. Oops!

Your shoes are a fantastic advert for the AS handgrade series once again. Enjoy them in good health and thanks for sharing,

Chris.


----------



## JMB

*AS Custom Brogue Boots*

Hi All,

Just received the Brogue Boots Chay featured on his blog. They are even more handsome in the flesh (leather :icon_smile_big.


----------



## emptym

There have been some great threads recently about AS Handgrades, but I thought I'd revive this old original w/ a pic Chay just sent me of my boots awaiting finishing:








Dainite soles for motorcycle commuting. I love the fit of the 87 and the 99 lasts, but am trying a handgrade on these. The plan is to wear these and see which is my favorite of all three, then to order a taller captoe balmoral boot.


----------



## gman-17

That is a fantastic boot. Excellent. That is a screaming buy.


----------



## emptym

gman-17 said:


> That is a fantastic boot. Excellent. That is a screaming buy.


Thanks. Your excellent thread w/ pics of the lasted trees, etc., was one I was referring to above. I really like that slip on you posted too.


----------



## emptym

Chay sent me some more pics before they head out my way:









Perfect timing w/ our mild winter coming. This is the first production pair and will be named after me. I'm quite honored.


----------



## chrstc

Hi emptym,
Are the pictures deceptive or have AS even managed to give you something of a fiddleback effect despite the Dainite sole? If so that's the first time I've ever seen that done and it's incredibly impressive.

Congratulations on the new boots,
Chris.


----------



## eagle2250

Those are great looking boots, emptym. May you long wear them, in poor weather perhaps, but, always in good health! :thumbs-up:


----------



## emptym

^Thanks Eagle!



chrstc said:


> Hi emptym,
> Are the pictures deceptive or have AS even managed to give you something of a fiddleback effect despite the Dainite sole? If so that's the first time I've ever seen that done and it's incredibly impressive.
> 
> Congratulations on the new boots,
> Chris.


 That's a good question. I don't know, but I agree that they look a little fiddle-backed. Chay did say that they cut the welt and sole as close as possible to keep them dressy.


----------



## gman-17

^^^^^Really beautiful boots. I have wanted a pair like that for years. Those would be absolutely perfect here in Chi-town.


----------



## emptym

^ Thank you. I have too. Chicago would be a great place for them. Years in Boston were what got me to really want them. Shorter boots like chukkas let in rain while motorcycling or bicycling. Cowboy boots don't, but they aren't ideal for all situations.


----------



## maltess

Hello, I just ordered a pair of AS George Boots from Edwards of Manchester. I apologiza tht I dont have any pictures because they have alreadu retire the site entry since it was the last pair left. It was labeled as a MTO shoe, probably they asked AS to made this model for them, it was avalaible in every size.

I contacted AS and Chay told me that by the specs this model is comparable to the premier range, which cost around 210 pounds at Pediwear. Do you think this is a good buy in terms of quality and durability? I know this is not C&J or EG, but is the premier range a good buy for the money? In the past I got a pair o chelseas from the basic range and I am not very happy with them



Best regards


----------



## Mick_P

maltess said:


> is the premier range a good buy for the money? In the past I got a pair o chelseas from the basic range and I am not very happy with them


As far as I know, AS do the following ranges: MTO; Handgrade; Exclusive; Town and Country. So when you talk about 'premier' and 'basic', to which ranges are you referring? Or are you talking about Edwards of Manchester?


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## clintonf

Mick_P said:


> As far as I know, AS do the following ranges: MTO; Handgrade; Exclusive; Town and Country. So when you talk about 'premier' and 'basic', to which ranges are you referring? Or are you talking about Edwards of Manchester?


Alfred Sargent has/had the following ranges: "Premier" and "Classic" in addition to the ones you've mentioned. The Classic range featured corrected grain leather (not at all to my liking) and the Premier offered some pretty good value for money offerings (I still have a few of them in my cupboard).

You can still find the Premier for sale at places such as Pediwear and Edwards. I'm not sure whether the Classic range is still sold anywhere.

Neither Range is featured on their website now.

I hope that this helps?

Clint


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## emptym

maltess said:


> Hello, I just ordered a pair of AS George Boots from Edwards of Manchester. I apologiza tht I dont have any pictures because they have alreadu retire the site entry since it was the last pair left. It was labeled as a MTO shoe, probably they asked AS to made this model for them, it was avalaible in every size.
> 
> I contacted AS and Chay told me that by the specs this model is comparable to the premier range, which cost around 210 pounds at Pediwear. Do you think this is a good buy in terms of quality and durability? I know this is not C&J or EG, but is the premier range a good buy for the money? In the past I got a pair o chelseas from the basic range and I am not very happy with them


 I have a couple pairs of the premier range and I love them. I also have some Handgrades. The handgrades are works of art, but the Premiers keep me very happy too. In fact, I think there's no better shoe value out there than AS premiers.


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## emptym

Here's a couple more pics of the boots above, on the feet: 









and on the bike:









I've worn them several times, including a couple times for half hour rides in the rain. They're very comfortable and very supportive. Great for walking and on the bike. Lots of neat little details like the loop in the back. Makes it easy to get on but doesn't get caught on even a pretty narrow pant leg. Thanks again to Chay and the others at AS!


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## dwebber18

Gorgeous shoes, I have been impressed by the AS shoes shown here in recent months. I would be happy to have them as my next pair.


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## Groover

Just been sent some pics of a pair I've had in the pipeline for a while.

AS Hangrade Milton w/o Medallion

Antique Museum Calf
48F Last


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## chrstc

Hi Groover,

Wow!! That museum calf looks incredible!

Enjoy in good health and happy holidays,

Chris.


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## emptym

Wow, really beautiful, Groover!


dwebber18 said:


> Gorgeous shoes, I have been impressed by the AS shoes shown here in recent months. I would be happy to have them as my next pair.


Thank you. I'm really enjoying them.


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## BespokeMex

Damn! I want some of that.


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## Pliny

*new AS*

Strewth, those are dress-shoe perfection - simple is the bomb. Did Chay do the antiquing?


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## Pliny

*more AS hand-grade*



emptym said:


> Wow, really beautiful, Groover!
> 
> Thank you. I'm really enjoying them.


It's been raining non-stop for weeks here in Queensland and flooding everywhere. Not so fun going out, so good timing by the courier: the AS HG are really special - (cross posting). These were inspired by a double monk idea by ClintonF. On the AS48 with tweaking.


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## Pliny

try again


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## Mike147

Pliny - They are lovely. Would you mind if I ask what they ran you? 

Did they work with you at all on size tweaking or were the adjustments strictly in design? Thanks, Mike147


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## Pliny

Mike147 said:


> Pliny - They are lovely. Would you mind if I ask what they ran you?
> 
> Did they work with you at all on size tweaking or were the adjustments strictly in design? Thanks, Mike147


Cheers Mike. The Hand-grade program at AS is 640 GBP including trees (I think). These were a touch more. I have a very average foot, so no size tweaking for me, and they fit very well. On the 48 last. My understanding is that AS will make anything you want in colour, style, size and last.


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## Groover

^ Haven't been on here for a while. Those look awesome! Congrats!


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## Groover

x-post from SF:

Style: Templar + Medallion
Last: 87F
Colour: Mahogany Burnished.

Ok, these MTO's have been in the works for sometime(several months). The reason for the length of time is due to the changes AS wanted to attempt in order to improve their Handgrade sole. I was not in any rush for them, so I was more than happy to allow Chay to 'express' himself.

The colour, last, medallion were all my choice. The sole is the work of the skilled craftsmen at AS, the changes to the last, the ribbing, the lasting, the finishing are really something else.

Those that follow his blog https://alfred-sargent.blogspot.com/ will have seen a picture of the sole last night. These are my pictures of the shoe itself and some more of the sole/heel.


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## chrstc

Hi Groover,

Yet another spectacular pair of shoes. Congratulations and great to see you back here again.

Chris.


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## peterc

The photos on this page of this thread are too beautiful for words.


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## Pliny

*Templars*



peterc said:


> The photos on this page of this thread are too beautiful for words.


+1 on the pics: Groover, the vamp on those Templars is stunning, the finishing is fantastic all round - and the cut of the sole so close to the upper is for me what makes these shoes so different to say Vass. AS is really pushing the envelope now, and although I didn't think they could get any better, these Templars are at a different level again. Great colour BTW.

Is AS planning to make that ultra-slim waist standard on the hand grade line? If so I think I've found the maker for an incredibly sleek pair of black Oxfords


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## Groover

chrstc said:


> Hi Groover,
> 
> Yet another spectacular pair of shoes. Congratulations and great to see you back here again.
> 
> Chris.


Thanks Chris.

I'm really pleased with them.

It does seem very quiet around here these days?


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## Groover

Pliny said:


> +1 on the pics: Groover, the vamp on those Templars is stunning, the finishing is fantastic all round - and the cut of the sole so close to the upper is for me what makes these shoes so different to say Vass. AS is really pushing the envelope now, and although I didn't think they could get any better, these Templars are at a different level again. Great colour BTW.
> 
> Is AS planning to make that ultra-slim waist standard on the hand grade line? If so I think I've found the maker for an incredibly sleek pair of black Oxfords


Many thanks.

Yes, AS is intending to make this the standard sole for the Handgrade line.


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## upnorth

G, you've posted so many pics of your shoes to the point that every time I see a reply from you, like Pavlov's dog, I have been conditioned to expect photos of new shoes.


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## Groover

upnorth said:


> G, you've posted so many pics of your shoes to the point that every time I see a reply from you, like Pavlov's dog, I have been conditioned to expect photos of new shoes.


:icon_smile_big:

Sorry to disappoint you this time


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## Decadent

Groover, great photos! Thanks!


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## Pliny

new Alfred Sargent site up: Hand-grade and Exclusive ranges 
https://alfredsargent.co.uk/

totally customizable Goodyear welted


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## peterc

Groover, may I ask you how you determined which last to choose?


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## Pliny

.....


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## CAG

Pliny said:


> new Alfred Sargent site up: Hand-grade and Exclusive ranges
> https://alfredsargent.co.uk/
> 
> totally customizable Goodyear welted


Not that I could afford a pair, but the website looks like a slightly classier version of MySpace.


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