# JM Weston Signature 180 loafers, dark brown (PICS)



## qwerty (Jun 24, 2005)

Just received these -- was having the toe plates installed. Quite nice, and Woodlore's Epic shoe trees fit perfectly. A different look from the LHS and the Polo Darlton. I guess I'll wear whichever fits my mood...
Walked in them a few paces on a hard surface before snapping pics.


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## ds23pallas (Aug 22, 2006)

Oh those are nice. Where did you get them qwerty? I am going to Montreal in a few weeks and I was going to keep an eye out for those. They seem to be as iconic a loafer with the BCBG in France as the LHS is with Trads in the US.

ds23pallas


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## qwerty (Jun 24, 2005)

Thank you! Straight from the source.


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## LeatherSOUL (May 8, 2005)

qwerty, can you please post your thoughts on steel toe taps? I don't know if I could get used to the clickety clackity.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Very nice looking shoes! Have you had the toe plates installed on other shoes in your rotation?


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## ds23pallas (Aug 22, 2006)

Leathersoul,

Do you carry the 180? In brown suede?


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## qwerty (Jun 24, 2005)

This is my first ever pair of shoe with metal taps. These are the counter-sunk type (flush with the rest of the sole).

What I do know is that I wear down the toes of my leather-soled shoes VERY quickly. The soles on the JMW 180 are rather thin (I'd say 75% thickness of LHS soles), and didn't want to see them wear away. Several JMW models (Chasse, demi-chasse, others) are sold with metal taps pre-installed (the full Chasse model has metal heel taps as well). The folks at JMW promised they could have exactly the same taps installed in the loafers, exactly as discreetly/flush with the rest of the sole. They certainly delivered!

Walking around on hardwood a bit in these has not produced any sound/volume other than what one would hear with a non-tapped pair of leather-soled shoes.

Let's see if they're loud on pavement. If not, I wonder if it's too late to have something similar installed on the toes of my EGs. They are wearing quickly, while the rest of the sole has a long way to go.


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## fritzl (Jun 5, 2006)

LeatherSOUL said:


> qwerty, can you please post your thoughts on steel toe taps? I don't know if I could get used to the clickety clackity.


Clickety clackity is only when your gait is wrong. :icon_smile: I find them very useful.

The nicest are the boulevard plates i.e. G&G bespoke.


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## LeatherSOUL (May 8, 2005)

ds23pallas said:


> Leathersoul,
> 
> Do you carry the 180? In brown suede?


Not in brown suede, I would need to order. You're better off calling the boutique on Madison Ave.


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## videocrew (Jun 25, 2007)

Those look really, really nice.


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## JayJay (Oct 8, 2007)

Great looking shoes.


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## qwerty (Jun 24, 2005)

Don't know if this shoe is done in brown suede RTW. I've seen black suede RTW (why would anyone ever want black suede?), as well as croc of various colors, lizard of various colors, and navy calf. I've also seen the standard colors of calf: black, burgundy, and a mid-brown/tan color (and then there's the dark brown -- "chocolate boxcalf", they call it -- pictured above).

I know JMW does this shoe MTO in any of a variety of leathers (I think I once saw a picture of bright red suede). One of the large stores in Paris may be worth telephoning to inquire about the availability of brown suede RTW. They have very large selections of leathers RTW in Paris.


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## XdryMartini (Jan 5, 2008)

fritzl said:


> Clickety clackity is only when your gait is wrong. :icon_smile: I find them very useful.
> 
> The nicest are the boulevard plates i.e. G&G bespoke.


Second place would go to Lulu plates used by EG...


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## Pressfan (Aug 6, 2003)

Great shoes! I purchased the same ones in Bordeaux a couple of years ago and am impressed by their quality each time I wear them. The leather is of a much higher standard than any other shoes I have.

The shop in Bordeaux had a large selection of the 180 in the colours listed as well as navy blue. I don't recall a brown suede version, but there was a very nice version in pigskin for only a few euros more than those in leather. Weston will also make shoes in other non-stock colours for an upcharge, but the wait was 6 weeks (in France).



ds23pallas said:


> Oh those are nice. Where did you get them qwerty? I am going to Montreal in a few weeks and I was going to keep an eye out for those. They seem to be as iconic a loafer with the BCBG in France as the LHS is with Trads in the US.
> 
> ds23pallas


Unfortunately, I believe Rego in Toronto is the only retailer of Weston in Canada. They have a limited in-stock selection, but will order models/sizes not in stock. Unfortunately, the prices quoted were very high - enough that the difference between buying a pair in France with the detaxe could pay for a large portion of the airfare to Paris.


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## qwerty (Jun 24, 2005)

6 weeks is unbelievably fast turnaround time!


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## Philip12 (Aug 24, 2005)

Nice shoes, Qwerty. I had the same model in tan, many years ago. Weston was an iconic brand in France for the "bon chic, bon genre" (BCBG) crowd in France, especially in the mid eighties. The quality of the leather and the construction are great, but I always liked my 986s more.

The 180 remains a classic, but Weston mainly cater for trendy, fashionable people today. Their range has become really (and I mean really) modern.


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## Pressfan (Aug 6, 2003)

qwerty said:


> 6 weeks is unbelievably fast turnaround time!


Ludwig Reiter in Vienna promised delivery of any model in any available colour/material in 4 to 6 weeks.


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## bd79cc (Dec 20, 2006)

qwerty said:


> Just received these -- was having the toe plates installed. Quite nice, and Woodlore's Epic shoe trees fit perfectly. A different look from the LHS and the Polo Darlton. I guess I'll wear whichever fits my mood...
> Walked in them a few paces on a hard surface before snapping pics.


What fine looking shoes! They look like everything else at a distance, but like nothing else up close - I like that.


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## Rossini (Oct 7, 2007)

I like the idea of the metal toe taps but of course you can sometimes get hard rubber toe taps - e.g. from Vass - that would eliminate any potential for noise.


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## qwerty (Jun 24, 2005)

Philip12 said:


> Nice shoes, Qwerty. I had the same model in tan, many years ago. Weston was an iconic brand in France for the "bon chic, bon genre" (BCBG) crowd in France, especially in the mid eighties. The quality of the leather and the construction are great, but I always liked my 986s more.
> 
> The 180 remains a classic, but Weston mainly cater for trendy, fashionable people today. Their range has become really (and I mean really) modern.


We shall see if I end up preferring my 986s..that may happen. They're just different to me (and I know how comical that would sound to the untrained eye -- two pairs of penny loafers) -- I really think they're very different shoes. The fact that the Westons are true moccasins makes them feel more casual to me. I also think they're a little less versatile than a pair of color 8 LHSs, as I'd wear color 8 with dark grey, but I wouldn't wear dark brown calf with dark grey (YMMV).

As to what Weston makes today, I agree. One walks into a Weston store, and there is a rack of incredibly fashion-forward (often pointy-toed) shoes which I would not wear. Then there's the rack of traditional shoes, like the standard oxfords, the Chasse, Demi-Chasse, and Golf, and then of course the 180.


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## qwerty (Jun 24, 2005)

I feel like the following might be worthwhile to explain how I find this shoe to be in a slightly different category than the LHS in terms of formality/appropriate wear...the LHS is more versatile, and I think it can go just as casual as this shoe can go, but also more formal.

There appears to be a family of JMW-type penny loafers in the world. By JMW-type loafers, I refer to penny loafers with the following characteristics:
-- "Ornate" (don't know what else to call it) penny slot
-- High toe box
-- High instep/side walls
-- No beefrolls
-- True moccasin construction
-- Often a split toe
-- Single leather sole
-- non-360 degree welt (close-welted heels)

A few examples:

Tods Thames loafer (I have this one and after nearly 20 polishings with dark brown cream, the obnoxious orange glow has left mine...these are not pics of mine)



















Church's Wesley. Almost a perfect copy of the Weston 180, except that it has a higher vamp, making it a little less elegant to my eye (something "snout"-y about it). I think the Wesley has been Church's "classic" penny for years, though I might be wrong.



















C&J Lincoln. Wish I could find more/better photos. I've seen this in person and it's quite elegant. Again, I think it's trying to copy the JMW (and doing a better job than the Wesley)










JL Paris Lopez, which is a bit more refined, sports an unconventional penny slot (some love it, others hate it -- I like it, but wouldn't wear it because it is so unique that it's almost a logo that says "my shoes are JL Paris!!")










JL Paris Campus, which is like a more "normal" Lopez. It also sports a split toe, unlike the Lopez.










Finally, more pics of the Weston 180 (not mine); I believe these are the mid-brown color, not my dark brown:


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## qwerty (Jun 24, 2005)

Then there are the faux-moccasin "dressier" pennies, all in the spirit of the beloved LHS. Most of these are:

-- Simple crescent penny slots
-- lower toe boxes
-- flat penny straps

(Many of the photo credits here should go to various forum members, whose pics I've saved on my hard drive.)

Alden LHS:



















AE Hamilton:










Alden for BB LHS (unlined):










C&J Boston:










C&J Harvard:



















C&J for Polo Darlton:



















Wildsmith loafer, now the EG Harrow


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## Philip12 (Aug 24, 2005)

Thanks for the great pictures, Qwerty. BTW have you ever tried wearing dark brown calf shoes with dark grey pants? Doesn't look bad at all. Ads a little touch of "Italianness".


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## PittDoc (Feb 24, 2007)

Nice pics. Nice thread. Great reading & viewing over lunch today.


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

qwerty-
Thank you for your efforts into putting together the wonderful display of penny loafer pictures


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## qwerty (Jun 24, 2005)

My pleasure (I _do_ enjoy it). Thank you for the kind words!


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Just a heads up for Canadians considering these shoes, the only store in Canada that sold them, Rego Clothiers in Toronto, has sold out of them and doesn't seem to be re-stocking them again. That's unfortunate since I understand Weston sizing is from another planet so trying them on is essential before purchase.

Good thread, qwerty.


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## LeatherSOUL (May 8, 2005)

Doctor Damage said:


> Just a heads up for Canadians considering these shoes, the only store in Canada that sold them, Rego Clothiers in Toronto, has sold out of them and doesn't seem to be re-stocking them again. That's unfortunate since I understand Weston sizing is from another planet so trying them on is essential before purchase.
> 
> Good thread, qwerty.


I wonder if it has to do with the current price of them. I remember when they were $415 in the US, now they are almost $800. At that price, they are hard to sell unfortunately.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

LeatherSOUL said:


> Doctor Damage said:
> 
> 
> > Just a heads up for Canadians considering these shoes, the only store in Canada that sold them, Rego Clothiers in Toronto, has sold out of them and doesn't seem to be re-stocking them again. That's unfortunate since I understand Weston sizing is from another planet so trying them on is essential before purchase.
> ...


Given that price increase, I bet eventually Weston will revert to being a France-only brand...which is great for the French, but does nothing for anyone else. I bet other brands will suffer a similar fate as reverse globalization happens to them and prices become too high for economic import/export. The return of local brands? Maybe not a bad thing, at least for those countries that still produce good shoes.

Rego was selling the 180 for C$695, which is the same as Church's in Toronto. They're still selling five other Weston models, so they haven't abandoned the brand, but now they carry only the more bizarre styles. Frankly, I'd rather buy Church's anyway as I think they're just as good and are more conservative. Regarding the price, the Canadian gov't slaps on an 18% import duty for shoes _not_ made in NAFTA (plus 13% taxes) which means proper shoes get pricey really fast, up here. I suspect the economics of selling high-end shoes in Toronto are simply not do-able, unless it was mostly website/mail order company. Only Harry Rosen has the potential to carry some good brands in quantity, but they seem locked into a fascination with the crappy Italian fashion brands.

BTW, where are the photos on your website for Weston?
You've got lots of other stuff, but no Weston photos, dammit.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Qwerty - how have the 180s worked out?


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## The Louche (Jan 30, 2008)

Philip12 said:


> Thanks for the great pictures, Qwerty. BTW have you ever tried wearing dark brown calf shoes with dark grey pants? Doesn't look bad at all. Ads a little touch of "Italianness".


Indeed. I love to wear dark brown with dark grey. I do find that the brown must truly be dark, however. I have a pair of AE Fairfax bals that came fro mthe factory in Chestnut; I had them dyed dark brown and have found that they don't work well with charcoal trousers. Dying dark brown over the Chestnut resulted in a nice deep brown color with a neat patina; not a full-on solid dark brown color.

The JMWs are very nice BTW. I love the metal tap concept although I'm so hard on my soles that toppies are my only recourse until I have a much larger rotation.


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## qwerty (Jun 24, 2005)

Doctor Damage said:


> Qwerty - how have the 180s worked out?


DocD --

Thank you for asking!
The 180s remain beautiful but I think I sized them incorrectly (just too tight at the forefoot -- painfully so). The pain must be wrong, because these are reputed to be very comfortable shoes.

I have been meaning to take them back to JMW to have them stretched by their "guy", but have not yet had the chance.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

qwerty said:


> The 180s remain beautiful but I think I sized them incorrectly (just too tight at the forefoot -- painfully so). The pain must be wrong, because these are reputed to be very comfortable shoes.
> 
> I have been meaning to take them back to JMW to have them stretched by their "guy", but have not yet had the chance.


That's very unfortunate. I know that the 180 comes in a range of sizes and widths that rivals Alden, so I suppose you probably just have the wrong size. Some people here, including Dopey and Iammatt, consider Weston shoes to be better than EG since they apparently age better. I really wish I could get them in Canada, but I suppose they might sorta/kinda justify a trip to Boston or NYC. Let us know what comes of the stretching.


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## singapura222 (Jun 18, 2012)

Hey,

I recently got a pair of JM Weston 180 loafers and have two questions.

1) How to protect the shoes from rain? I live in Singapore and sometimes we get the kind of thunderstorms where even walking 10meters with an umbrella leave you drenched. I have some kind of "grease" which I am supposed to spread on the soles.

2) I tend to walk down my heels very much. Any suggestions on what to do? Get metal plates eventually - or is there another material that's more resilient? 

-- nick


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^ To protect your new JM Westons safe from the rain, keep them well polished with a premium polish to provide some minimal protection from the rain/water. However, wearing rubber overshoes over your Westons during periods of heavy rain is the best way to protect them from water damage.

Regarding the idea of installing metal plates to extend the life of your heels, use nylon plates instead. Yes, they will have to be replaced every several months, but they will prove much less noisy and will allow you to walk in the shoes much more safely! Enjoy those new shoes.

Welcome to the forum!


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## singapura222 (Jun 18, 2012)

eagle2250 said:


> To protect your new JM Westons safe from the rain, keep them well polished with a premium polish to provide some minimal protection from the rain/water. However, wearing rubber overshoes over your Westons during periods of heavy rain is the best way to protect them from water damage.


Any polish you would recommend? As for Rubber Overshoes ... something like this here: ?



eagle2250 said:


> Welcome to the forum!


Thank you very much!

-- nick


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## xcubbies (Jul 31, 2005)

Do you know if they have them in alligator, or if they can be special ordered?


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

xcubbies said:


> Do you know if they have them in alligator, or if they can be special ordered?


Weston apparently has their own tannery and they will make them in almost any colour or skin you want.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

singapura222 said:


> Any polish you would recommend? As for Rubber Overshoes ... something like this here: ?
> 
> Thank you very much!
> 
> -- nick


I've been very satisfied with Tingley overshoes. Although, with some of my shell cordovan footwear, donning and removing the overshoes can temporarily mar the sheen of the shoes. Swimms overshoes are much more costly, but do seem somewhat kinder to the finish on ones shoes!


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