# Misinformation on proper suit jacket length?



## jwa_jwa_jwa (Jul 13, 2010)

I have researched the 'proper' fit for sport coats, blazers and suit jackets and by far the most frequently recommended method to determine fit is the jacket just covering your rear-end.

However, there are several places that do not use this method but instead advocate using your total height to determine your suit jacket length.

I know for me these 2 methods would yield 2 different jacket lengths so I'm curious why some places would recommend the latter method.


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## CAG (Jun 27, 2010)

I was taught a jacket should should be at where your fingers meet your palm, when your arms are relaxed. That's just about the same as just long enough to cover your rear.

I guess the chart could be benefitial if you were ordering a suit online and had no idea if you were a S,R, or an L. You could measure your chest, you know your hight, and the chart fills in the rest. I'd never do it that way, but it would be better than just guessing.


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## CuffDaddy (Feb 26, 2009)

That chart exists because nobody knows how far their shoulders are from their backside. If you're shopping online, "cover your bum" doesn't help, even though it's the best single-variable method.


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## jwa_jwa_jwa (Jul 13, 2010)

Both you gentlemen have good points. Never thought of it that way.


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## joenobody0 (Jun 30, 2009)

I'm 5'8" and have never purchased a 38R in my life - always 38S. The "cover your bottom" rule always works for me.


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## PTB in San Diego (Jan 2, 2010)

jwa, I'd suggest you spend some time looking at a variety of suit coats and sportcoats in a store where you can look closely at yourself in a three-way mirror, and then ultimately come to your own conclusion. I've had a series of arguments with one of my clothing store salespeople, a woman who has been in the business for years, and who is very knowledgeable. And opinionated. I'm just under 6'1", long torso. She wants me in a 46R, I prefer myself in a 46L. _T__o my eyes_ the L gives me better length and better line, and it's dressier and more finished. To her eyes, I'm wrong. I have elected to please myself rather than to please her (did that come out right?). The L, by the way, usually has to come up about 3/4" in the sleeves.

Anyhoo, I'd suggest you come to your own conclusions. You might make a note of the length of your preference. I think that length down the back of a suit coat is more usually measured down the middle, from bottom of collar not from top of collar, to bottom of coat.


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## 4dgt90 (Dec 2, 2009)

I'm nearly 5'8" and I also only get shorts. I've gotten a regular before and i hated how long it was. I think the chart is just there for a guideline seeing as how some people have longer torsos than others. Although I can't seem to comprehend how I would wear the same length jacket as my brother who is significantly taller than me at nearly 6'0" who wears regulars.

Go with the cover your rear method.

Once you find a jacket that covers you properly, measure the length from the bottom of the collar to the bottom of the jacket. Use that measurement whenever you buy online as some brands may have different lengths for S, R, L.


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## omanae (Aug 19, 2008)

I agree the Chart is for a quick reference for those without the luxury of a skilled fitter or a better store to do a fitting. It should cover the seat, and a rough guide in the modern trend of a slightly shorter jacket length I also look to see the end of the jacket around the last thumb knuckle (assuming his longs aren't disproportionate). 

Of course if a gentleman has either a stooped or erect posture it throws the whole thing off and it really requires a large alteration or having a jacket made to get skirt of the jacket to be balanced front to back. It really is a delicate thing to get the length right all around.


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## jwa_jwa_jwa (Jul 13, 2010)

tdecast said:


> I'm nearly 5'8" and I also only get shorts. I've gotten a regular before and i hated how long it was.


This is my story. I'm 5'9" and when I first bought a suit 20 years ago, the tailor instructed me to buy the 'short' jacket. Ever since I've wondered if he was right.

Over the Christmas break I decided to ask my tailor and he took out his measurement tape and measured me (from behind) from the neck to the ground, as I've heard is one of the methods for determining fit.

Anyway, he told me I should get the 'Regular'!!!

This totally confused me since I have bought sport jackets in Short and to my eye, they look good. Even when I ran the 'cover your bun' test, the jackets do cover it sufficiently without it looking too long.


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## joenobody0 (Jun 30, 2009)

jwa_jwa_jwa said:


> This is my story. I'm 5'9" and when I first bought a suit 20 years ago, the tailor instructed me to buy the 'short' jacket. Ever since I've wondered if he was right.
> 
> Over the Christmas break I decided to ask my tailor and he took out his measurement tape and measured me (from behind) from the neck to the ground, as I've heard is one of the methods for determining fit.
> 
> ...


For me, I like the look of the shortest jacket that isn't too short. It sounds like you're similar.


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

jwa_jwa_jwa said:


> This is my story. I'm 5'9" and when I first bought a suit 20 years ago, the tailor instructed me to buy the 'short' jacket. Ever since I've wondered if he was right.
> 
> Over the Christmas break I decided to ask my tailor and he took out his measurement tape and measured me (from behind) from the neck to the ground, as I've heard is one of the methods for determining fit.
> 
> ...


Over time quite a few makers have shortened the length of their jackets. Thus a manufacturer's 40 short 20 years ago may be an inch shorter than today's 40 short by the same manufacturer. Actually, the labeled size can be misleading or even irrelevant: it is best to be measured so as to know how long your jacket must be.


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## jwa_jwa_jwa (Jul 13, 2010)

joenobody0 said:


> For me, I like the look of the shortest jacket that isn't too short. It sounds like you're similar.


That's certainly true but you also want to avoid the suit jacket that hangs around your waist like a skirt; not a good look.


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## joenobody0 (Jun 30, 2009)

jwa_jwa_jwa said:


> That's certainly true but you also want to avoid the suit jacket that hangs around your waist like a skirt; not a good look.


Skirt-like fit would fall into the "too short" category for sure!


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## jwa_jwa_jwa (Jul 13, 2010)

I had no idea even Brooks' blog gives the same advice as that original website I posted


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

"Skirt" also refers to the bottom of a garment, as in the skirt of a man's jacket.


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

jwa_jwa_jwa said:


> I had no idea even Brooks' blog gives the same advice as that original website I posted


This comes from a company what has strayed so far from its roots that it now sells too short, and too skinny, jackets and pants. If they gave proper advise they would not sell any Milano cut clothes among others. Errors on their blog have been pointed out in the past.


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## mrp (Mar 1, 2011)

I'll muddy the waters, as others have mentioned there are a lot of factors. Not everyone can go by the height chart, it's a good start but you then need to look at torso length and think of what it is you are wearing. I'm also in the 6-1 boat, in Oxxford I can wear either a 44R (sport coats, slicker suit, not too much to do sleeve length wise) or 44L (more conservative look, several inches too long in the sleeve) for Hickey Freeman (44R as they run longer than Oxxford).


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

I stand 6' but span 6'2". Being built like a gibbon I have the choice of buying a 44L and having a slightly long coat (which I prefer over a too short!) or getting a 44R and having the sleeves lengthened. What it means to me is if you're buying OTR, stand in front of the mirror, stand sideways and get critical. If you're buying over the internet, expect to pay for a fair amount of alteration. Such is life.


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## TheGreatTwizz (Oct 27, 2010)

The 'measure from neck to ground' is an old school baseline, which they would take that measurement, half it, and call that your jacket length. 

I'm 5'10"-11" (depending on time of day) barefoot. Most regulars fit me well, but there has been occasions I needed a long. My 'rule' is for a jacket to be at or below the tip of my thumb (relaxed with hands at sides). Any shorter looks odd on me, and for evening/sport coats, I can go up to an inch longer than this. However, I'll categorically reject any jacket that is even 1/4" shorter than the tip of my thumb. This leads me to a window of 30.5-32" from BOC.


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## Ekphrastic (Oct 4, 2009)

Oldsarge said:


> I stand 6' but span 6'2". Being built like a gibbon I have the choice of buying a 44L and having a slightly long coat (which I prefer over a too short!) or getting a 44R and having the sleeves lengthened. What it means to me is if you're buying OTR, stand in front of the mirror, stand sideways and get critical. If you're buying over the internet, expect to pay for a fair amount of alteration. Such is life.


My situation exactly. For those of us with very long arms, everything needs to be customized. I also have a high waist, so getting a long size often results in a jacket that fits my arms but whose jacket hem falls too low. Alas.


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## Bernie Zack (Feb 10, 2010)

Ekphrastic said:


> My situation exactly. For those of us with very long arms, everything needs to be customized. I also have a high waist, so getting a long size often results in a jacket that fits my arms but whose jacket hem falls too low. Alas.


Throw in a "larger" (read "fat") waist, and you have my problem. Thus, it is difficult for me, especially when buying clothing on the internet, to determine whether I should buy a 46R or 46L. I always have to ask for ACTUAL measurements before deciding, since sizing varies from retailer to retailer, and from maker to maker.

My advice to you is ALWAYS ASK SPECIFICALLY FOR MEASUREMENTS!


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## stuplarosa (Jun 9, 2010)

For me, with most OTR makers I fall exactly in between a 44 and a 46 because of the width of my shoulders -- not the size of my chest. Being just over 6' tall, I fall exactly in between a typical L and a typical R. I have both perfect 44Rs and perfect 46Ls in my closet!


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## jwa_jwa_jwa (Jul 13, 2010)

I tried on a recently purchased BB sports coat and yes it falls in the range but I think I'm being very anal so watch out, with the "Short' jacket I don't have a full inch of fabric covering my bottom. It just covers it. So I'm considering heading over to one of their stores to try on the Regular then decide which one looks better.


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## jwa_jwa_jwa (Jul 13, 2010)

I went over to the Madison Avenue store for the first time and all I can say about the store is wow!
But back to the jacket, I spoke to a SA and I happened to be wearing a sweater this evening. I went ahead and told him I wanted to get measured for the proper fit. He did the typical measuring tape technique and told me I was actually 'in between sizes'. I explained that the 42S tweed sportcoats I had with me fit fine but in reality when I put them back on now that I had the sweater, they were much more snug than I would have liked.
He suggested the 43R and voila! I was very pleased with the fit and decided to exchange my three newly purchased tweed jackets for 43R's. It is a bit longer than the 42S and the chest is of course roomier but most importantly, I took special note that the tail does cover my bun and then leaves a little room to spare.


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