# Sport Coat Fit - Does the rear flap tell the tale?



## Marley (Apr 4, 2008)

Hi all,

I have a quick sport coat question -

I'm 6'-0" and 175 lbs and have been told all of my adult life that I need a 40R suit/sport coat.

I have several and while they fit nicely in the shoulder (my chest does measure at 40"), the rear flap breaks apart a bit and the rear of the jacket doesn't hang freely/nicely. Maybe my rear end sticks out a bit, but the look of the coat really bothers me, especially if it is buttoned.

A few years back, a Customer Service person at a men's store looked at me and said that a 42R would look much better. He had me try on a 42R Blue Blazer and low and behold. The jacket felt very nice, draped well and no problems with the rear vent!

I will say that there is a bit more room in the body, but at least the rear didn't look tight when buttoned.

Am I being too particular? Should I stick with my measured size and just live with the vent issue? Does it make sense that a larger jacket would fit better?

I just ordered an Orvis tweed jacket in 42R so I guess I will make a decision when it arrives.

I was just wondering if others have this problem.

Thanks!

Steffan


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## gar1013 (Sep 24, 2007)

The vent can be adjusted, as I understand it (I don't have a big ass, just a fat wallet - no money in there though!)


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## TheWardrobeGirl (Mar 24, 2008)

Take your 40s to a good tailor - if your only problem is that the vent pops, that can be adjusted


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## Grayland (Oct 22, 2007)

I've had the same problem with a few of my jackets and it's gotten to the point where I no longer buy single-vented jackets. I'm 5'9.5 and about 170 lbs. - also a 40R. I'm of average build up top, but I have a sprinter's ass; no other way to put it.

I didn't realize it could be fixed (the jacket, not my ass) and I never bothered to inquire with my tailor. 

BTW - I believe I've read that the Orvis jackets run a size large.


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## hbs midwest (Sep 19, 2007)

Sounds like the story of my life--I've been having tailors ease the back side seams of jackets below the waist to acommodate *my *backside since I was a teenager (and not a pudgy one, at that!)...The operation is relatively simple and inexpensive.

Good luck. 

hbs


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## windsor (Dec 12, 2006)

Maybe you need a 41. I think when I was at 175lb I was in a 41. The 40 sounds too tight to me. Of course the side seams could be let out a bit and then the vent should close. Orvis runs large. Their 42 may be too large for you.


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## windsor (Dec 12, 2006)

Some further thoughts. You did not mention your waist size . Maybe you are not a 34 which would be the standard 6 inch drop. Shoulder fit is the most critical in my opinion. You should carefully try 40,41 and 42 sizes for fit in the shoulders. Then after selecting the best fit if the vent is still popping open the waist (sides) on the jacket probably needs letting out....however there are other things that can cause that and a good tailor would spot them for you and advise accordingly.


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## The Louche (Jan 30, 2008)

Grayland said:


> it's gotten to the point where I no longer buy single-vented jackets


You may have to come over to the dark side of the Fashion forum and start wearing dual vents!

We'll gladly convert you!


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## hcivic91 (Aug 29, 2006)

I'm in even worse shape in this regard than you gents - My legs are hind-end are huge. I am 5'8" and weight 190, a size 39 jacket fits most appropriately through the shoulders and chest. As you can imagine the lower half does - waist and below - not so hot. 


My weight fluctuates about 10lbs spring to fall. I've got some Lands End jackets in a 38 that fit great in the chest and shoulders but at this time of year the back the vent looks like some kind of joke although the rest of the jacket still fits pretty well.


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## wnh (Nov 4, 2006)

I've got a wee bit of a rear myself and have had this problem with darted jackets, but not really with sacks, presumably because the darted jackets simply fit closer to my body. Might be worth comparing the two.


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## rl1856 (Jun 7, 2005)

Don't get too caught up on the numerical size of a garment. What is important is how the garment fits you. A 40r and 42r can fit identically, with the real difference being how the maker has styled and cut the garment.

If a 42 feels better, wear it.

Best,

Ross


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## Grayland (Oct 22, 2007)

The Louche said:


> You may have to come over to the dark side of the Fashion forum and start wearing dual vents!
> 
> We'll gladly convert you!


I have several dual vents and like them a lot, but I have no problem with single vents either - provided they fit. The bonus is that it's easier to find single vents, especially second-hand. I don't usually have my hands in my pockets so I don't worry about the single vent showing my rear.

I did pick up a tweed jacket a while back with a hook vent and like it very much.


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## wessex (Feb 1, 2008)

Grayland said:


> I did pick up a tweed jacket a while back with a hook vent and like it very much.


What is a hook vent?


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## Grayland (Oct 22, 2007)

I can't really describe a hook vent. It is a single vent, but the way it is designed appears to prevent it from opening up as much. I guess J.Press was known for hook vents. My jacket is an older tweed (not J. Press, though). Do a search for hook vents - somone actually has a drawing that shows it.


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## wessex (Feb 1, 2008)

Sorry, this was discussed @ https://askandyaboutclothes.com/f...ad.php?t=73362


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## Marley (Apr 4, 2008)

Thanks all,

I hedged my bets and bouth both a 40R and a 42R. The 42 arrived today and I can say without hesitation that it is too large. Flap irregularities or not, the 40R is correct.

Now to send the 42R back and await the 40R!

Thanks again,

SM


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## Thom Browne's Schooldays (Jul 29, 2007)

any pictures of exactly what you're talking about here?
I have the feeling I have the same problem.


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## M. Charles (Mar 31, 2007)

I am also around 175 lbs and 5' 11.5". I wear a 40R.

The most important thing is the shoulders. At least on me, a 41 or 42 would be much too wide in the shoulders. This can't be altered.

A jacket can always be taken out at the side seams to help the vent to close correctly. 

I strongly suggest that you stick with the 40R and have the side seams altered unless you think the shoulders fit correctly on the larger jackets.


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## Grayland (Oct 22, 2007)

I don't think weight tells you much about a proposed jacket size. It depends on where you carry the weight. You might be barrel chested with stick legs or have a smaller chest with a bigger rump (like me).


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