# Military Watches - Trad?



## stillwaters20007 (May 24, 2006)

Questions for the day:

1) Can a mechanical military watch (see attached for classic example) be "Trad"?

This one is a Hamilton, the precursor to the oh so Tradly Hamilton Field watch, so my vote would be yes. Your views?

2) Does anyone wear this type of watch on a grosgrain (non-Nato) strap?


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## Literide (Nov 11, 2004)

A resounding "yes"
Naturally with a striped band. Wearing the "Bond" MI6 stripe at the moment. When things get warmer I'll get more colorful.
O/D green when I go hunting in the fall.


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## Patrick06790 (Apr 10, 2005)

stillwaters20007 said:


> Questions for the day:
> 
> 1) Can a mechanical military watch (see attached for classic example) be "Trad"?
> 
> ...


1. Sure.

2. Absolutely.

Selah,

P


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## hbs midwest (Sep 19, 2007)

*Military (Hamilton) Watch Trad?*

Whyever would it *not* be???

I had one on active duty several generations ago--a faithful companion. :icon_smile:

Nylon/grosgrain strap is the obvious civilian acoutrement.

hbs


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## Topsider (Jul 9, 2005)

Definitely trad.

I have a few military and military-inspired watches, and most of them look fine on grosgrain straps. I tend to think that a white-dialed watch looks a tad better, though.


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## Beresford (Mar 30, 2006)

I still occasionally wear my Dad's military Movado from World War II; it's totally battered, but my Dad wore it daily up until the mid 1960s when he was finally convinced to get a gold watch more befitting an executive, he then gave it to me (I was in sixth grade). Have kept it ever since. On a grosgrain strap.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Answering your questions;
1) Is there any watch that could be more TRAD(!)??
2) Quite frequently!


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## smujd (Mar 18, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> Answering your questions;
> 1) Is there any watch that could be more TRAD(!)??


Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust. YMMV.


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## 3button Max (Feb 6, 2006)

*military*

I wear Bean Hammy mechanical

(the Bean version of watch shown above) frequently w/ striped watchband.(not Nato)
again I am not sure the exact provenance of this in trad canon. Could be that it was from Bean in their glory days-sort of remember a post that this has British Sloan ranger origin-
I would think that the Orvis model today or plain stainless from Bean would be fine- this just happens to be a watch I actually purchased from Bean in the 80s.
somehow I like the cheap p.o.s. Timex on a ribbon maybe more. For whatever reason it all falls into the parameters of trad dissonance -timex w/ a stripe band has a strain of the "go to hell "aspect-no need to impress anyone w/watch .


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## Ole Hickory (Jan 12, 2008)

*a slight possibility;*



smujd said:


> Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust. YMMV.


The Smiths British Mil-watch. Broadarrow model circa '67-70. They seem to run upwards of $1k these days. A nice mechanical mechanism that requires little/no maintenance. I snagged one after running in to a college pal who was having one restored.
Here's a link to one; https://www.watchestobuy.com/images/SmithsMilitarys.JPG
Or 
An RAF (circa '58) Omega- mechanical - another hand wound watch. 
If cheap is the goal; the Bean.
" Khaki" mechanical Hamilton topped the list. You can snag them still for less than $1oo.


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## swb120 (Aug 9, 2005)

Love the watch! I think you're no safe "Trad" ground on that one!


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## nobody (Oct 26, 2007)

*A fine example of this style of watch*

[if you can find one] is IWC's Mark XII [or a Mark XV, but not the newer Mark XVI]. The design is classic, and the beautifully finished case and face hold a JLC movement.


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## ASF (Mar 6, 2006)

*here's mine w/2 strap variations*


















Most have a weakness, watches are mine!


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## smujd (Mar 18, 2008)

ASF said:


> Most have a weakness, watches are mine!


I have a similar Rolex but never considered pairing it with anything other than the metal bracelet. Thanks.

How easy/difficult is it to swap the bands?


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## ASF (Mar 6, 2006)

smujd said:


> I have a similar Rolex but never considered pairing it with anything other than the metal bracelet. Thanks.
> 
> How easy/difficult is it to swap the bands?


Very. If you're worried, take your watch to a reputable place and they should be able to do it in approx. 1 min. I wouldn't take it to a Rolex dealer as they will pooh-pooh the idea and might refuse to do it. They see this a dumbing down of their brand.....

asf


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## Vik (Mar 18, 2005)

I was considering doing this to my old Rolex - but it was stolen before I could pursue the option.

Can it be any model? Or just the submariner? Your Rolex looks sweet by the way!


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## Got Shell? (Jul 30, 2008)

Nice 14060m, one of my favorites! My only watch is a black dialed 16570 ExpII. I've been meaning to get a skunk NATO for it, but the oyster is just classic.


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## Got Shell? (Jul 30, 2008)

THat is fantastic! Reminds me of the IWC Pilot watches, especially the case. I'd love to pick up a Mark XV on bracelet sometime.


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## dshell (Mar 17, 2007)

ASF said:


> Most have a weakness, watches are mine!


And the thinkpad is the tradliest of laptops. (Well, the pre-lenovo ones only, perhaps.) ;-)


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## The Captain (Dec 15, 2008)

*MILITARY WATCHES*

Gentlemen!

1. Back in my day, there were three options for service wrist watches, none of which involved heirlooms - it was business, not a cotillion.

2. *TAXONOMY*

a. *Rolex* (_any variety, the bigger the better_) - for aviators, to give them a use for all that flight pay and aviation bonuses, and compensate for their, ah, "shortcomings" in other areas, also to give your right hand a shiny target when re-living aerial combat at the O club;

b. *Black Casio Digital* - one might say for the high tech Marine, were that not a complete oxymoron, or those who couldn't master telling time on analogue faces;

c. *Timex Camper* - for the trad (or "real") Marine, conservatively striped band optional for leave.

3. Goodness knows what they wear these days, but that's how it was in the Old Corps.

By cracky.

The Captain


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## Pr B (Jan 8, 2009)

*Mil Watches*

Yes, the easy-to-read, high-contrast white-on-black analog, with satin grey/silver case, is Trad, IMHO.

But only with a cloth strap. Be it NATO or US DOD design or grosgrain. Be it OD or striped. I alternate between the issue OD, a grosgrain, the so-called James Bond NATO, and a school colors one.


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## ardbeg1977 (Jan 16, 2009)

Topsider said:


> Definitely trad.
> 
> I have a few military and military-inspired watches, and most of them look fine on grosgrain straps. I tend to think that a white-dialed watch looks a tad better, though.


Topsider--LOVE that Omega! A thing of beauty.


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## chatsworth osborne jr. (Feb 2, 2008)

*don't hate*

So, how about this one? I like it as a casual despite looking utterly disposable.







shown like twice the actual diminutive size.
FYI, it doesn't take straps due to clumsy molding.


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## PorterSq (Apr 17, 2008)

Chatsworth,

I'm not much for black-faced watches (I don't own any black pants, shoes, socks, etc, save for my "funeral suit" so I always feel funny wearing black accessories). Having said that, I do like that Timex. I'd likely wear it with jeans and sneakers on really casual days, yardwork, etc.


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## dport86 (Jan 24, 2009)

Since trad, or preppie, has always referenced regimental color ties, military-inspired khaki's, web belts and other military-originated items, I don't know why watches would be any different. 

But it's not so traditional to wear military watches--until very recently (last 5-10 years), watch collectors and dealers would routinely buff out the military markings on the back of military watches. Such watches were available very inexpensively--much less expensively than the civilian versions of the same watch (same movement, but with a different case and dial). Now legendary and highly collected military watches like the IWC Mk XI and the Omega '53 were sold out of surplus catalogues and at watch fairs for 1/10 to 1/20 of what they command now. 

The IWC pilot watch revivals/reissues, and the Hamilton, Omega and Seiko military style watches, are a testimony to the current trend toward military watches. But I doubt very much that many 'trad', preppie, conservative men of the 40's, 50's and 60's ever wore their service watches (or the watches they 'liberated' from the enemy) as part of their regular wardrobe. Perhaps others have different experiences.

Certainly Vietnam-era field watches, which is what the Smiths and the Hamilton that inspired the L.L. Bean watch, were not worn with chinos and polos or under tweed suits, were they? 

Some would argue that military watches have a honesty and a purity of design that makes them transcend fashion. However, it seems to me that they are perhaps more at home with minimalist modern wear of the Prada variety, or the retro-grandpa nerdy lumberjack look than the trad look. One conservative clothing commentator mentioned in a post I once read that if you're not a submariner, a race car driver, a pilot or an astronaut, it is inappropriate and slightly ridiculous to wear the sports watches associated with the above (dive watch, chronograph, aviator or speedy pro). By that logic, it is a bit ridiculous for civilians to wear military watches as well. 

But hey, I'm willing to be a little ridiculous to wear what I love.


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## safetyfast (Jul 18, 2006)

I'm wearing a Bertucci military style watch my wife gave me. Fixed lugs, so all you can use are grosgrain bands. Came with a green non-nato strap.


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## Vik (Mar 18, 2005)

these look very similar to the Seiko military watches that a few members here own.


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## The Captain (Dec 15, 2008)

Gentlemen!


1. Mr. Osborne's picture looks precisely like the Timex Camper to which I referred, though of course my model had a mechanical, not quartz, moivement. I seem to recall they renamed it (at least briefly) with some sort of more manly monicker, but I believe that now it is once more the "Camper".


2. Re: the molding for the watch band, I found I could switch to a grosgrain band with my school colors for wear on leave easily enough. The trick was finding a band without grommets around the holes, as they render the band too thick to fit through the molded slots.



The Captain


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## Clay J (Apr 29, 2008)

What is the average accepted price for one of these Hamiltons or other watches from that era (40's-60's) these days? All that I have seen are either exorbitantly high priced or ridiculously mistreated, ie scratches and no bands etc.


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## dport86 (Jan 24, 2009)

it depends on the watch model and the condition. Now that they are so fashionable, prices for Hamilton vietnam era issued watches have gone from $75-100 unrestored not so many years back to $200 plus. L.L. Bean hamiltons--there's one on ebay right now for BIN $59, but it has canon pinion problems--figure at least $75, probably $100 to set right. Smiths watches, which contrary to some posts here in my experience are not bulletproof and quite challenging to find parts for, were in the $500 range but the weak pound may bring that down. Good Omega 53 fat arrow's went from $1000 just a year or two ago to $1500-1700. Exorbitant? For a military watch with a legendary movement that Omega put into a $5000 reissue a few years back, rugged antimagnetic case with a Faraday cage like the Rolex Milgauss or IWC ingenieur, classic looks and very limited number surviving--perhaps actually undervalued relative to $5000-$7000 IWC mark xi's. 

A better value: post Vietnam swiss Hamilton militaries. mint in the box are a few hundred, used and running perhaps $125-150.

If all these prices seem too high, Seiko made severalwatches inspired by 60's military style watches with automatic movements that appear regularly on Ebay for $60-75. A great deal given Seiko's rugged reliability, solid construction and quality. People buy the replacement straps for $20. Some would say that Seiko occupies the market niche and manufacturing philosophy that Hamilton did in the 50's and 60's, albeit on a much, much larger scale.


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## chilton (Jul 16, 2008)

Not the tradliest Hamilton, but as a college student I don't follow the canons to the T. I have gotten a lot of compliments on it.


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## chatsworth osborne jr. (Feb 2, 2008)

*Yup, the aforementioned Timex Camper!*



The Captain said:


> . Re: the molding for the watch band, I found I could switch to a grosgrain band with my school colors for wear on leave easily enough.


I can't believe I missed your reference to said watch. You are correct that a strap works, it just doesn't flow nicely - it has to kink to recurve around the spring pins under the case back. I guess the strap flattens out in time.

I find the subdued disposable watch to be a nice foil when other flourishes risk being too colorful/dandy/twee.


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## WillisGeigerFan (Apr 24, 2007)

I'm presently wearing a Helios WW2 German Army issue watch (authenticated by the experts at the German Military Watch Forum) and it gets lots of rave reviews. I have trouble posting pics here so here's the link - hope it doesn't break the rules to link to another, non-fashion rated site:

https://germanwatch.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=3352


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## AdamsSutherland (Jan 22, 2008)

That Omega is great.

I hunted for an old Bean Hamilton for a while and got fed up with the price/condition that I was finding them in so I picked up a Seiko 5. That died pretty quickly though (due to some reckless behavior on my part) so I finally picked up a $30 Timex Easy-Reader. I love the watch though; nothing is more satisfying than receiving a compliment on it from some kid with a Tag and telling them I picked it up at Target.


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## Corcovado (Nov 24, 2007)

I love field watches whether they are actually military or not. To me the look and design of the _basic _military field watch is trad on its own terms. It is functional, rugged, attractive, understated and inexpensive. I also like the bit of history tied up in a vintage or even a vintage-styled field watch. An actual WWII era watch would be just the thing IMO. it is worth mentioning the wristwatch itself is an innovation related to aviation and warfare.






























They are so trad it hurts. I would classify them as informal watches, and certainly there are other watches that would be more appropriate to fancier dress.

Then you can get into more garish watches, and they risk becoming ridiculous IMO when they are ostentatious or if they have features that are actually impractical to daily civilian use. OTOH there's nothing wrong however someone liking and wearing a watch because they think it's neat. Men are expected to conform quite a bit and the watch is one thing where a little more leeway is granted. I don't think a Rolex Submariner is a very tradly watch either but it's neat, as many dive watches are, and if it pleased me I'd wear one.


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## FlashForFreedom (May 16, 2009)

I think that is a great combination. I know many trads here may prefer the white faced-watch, but the WISes out there will go for the more functional black face. I wear a black face old-style Heuer Carrera re-issue and Sinn 556 on multi-colored straps often on weekends... and on black straps or metal with a Military uniform - they go great with either!


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## jamezzz122 (Dec 26, 2009)

*MIL-W-46374*

I'm a fan of the military watches. I currently have a Hamilton GG-W-113 from 1969. It is a great watch that has a lot of history behind it. It's made by a bunch of other companies such as Benrus, Timex, Waltham, Marathon, and possibly a few more. They're not too expensive either, with decent condition ones fetching a little over $100 on eBay.

The Hamilton MIL-W-46374 is is worth looking at also. Another great military watch by Hamilton.


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## fishertw (Jan 27, 2006)

Just bought a Hamilton mechanical to replace a late 80's era Tag diver that is 25 years old and needs servicing. Also ordered a shell cordovan band for it. Looking forward to sending the Tag back to factory for its second refurbishment. Any suggestions about the Hamilton? Will likely end up buying a good number of grosgrain straps next summer.


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## fred johnson (Jul 22, 2009)

Yes and Hell Yes!


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## Tilton (Nov 27, 2011)

I have a Victornox infantry watch that I guess might qualify as a military-esque watch, but my two watching I consider "military" are a Luminox Black Ops and a smaller-than-average Casio G-Shock analog, on NATO and ZULU staps, respectively. While the Victorinox is plenty tough, I like the Luminox and G-Shock for hunting, fishing, kayaking, running, etc. Only complaint is that the G-Shock analog clock has to be set via buttons and only move forward, so for day light savings, I have to go all the way around, 11 hrs, to set it right.


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## katon (Dec 25, 2006)

Here are some watch options from Brooks:









(1947, courtesy of Heavy Tweed Jacket)









(1971, courtesy of Heavy Tweed Jacket)
















(1979)









(1980)









(1981)























(1982)
















(1983)


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## TradThrifter (Oct 22, 2012)

That's really cool. Thanks for the pics! They advertise a "sweep second hand" on the watches, but they are swiss quartz. I wonder how they achieved such a feat?


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