# The Casual Unconstructed Sport Coat



## Dave Scoven (Mar 4, 2013)

I'm about 5 minutes from deciding to go into business. This is ridiculous. Pictured here https://www.unabashedlyprep.com/site/entry/wardrobe-i/ is a jacket that I would assume that every man who cares about style needs. The one in this photo is RL Rugby (i.e., no longer available), but one would think that everyone and his sister would have something similar for sale. Turns out, not so much. At least nothing that isn't junk, or alternatively, $1,500. Am I missing something? Help?


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## CMDC (Jan 31, 2009)

Teba Jacket

From Spain

They're awesome

Completely unconstructed. Only difference is squared off quarters. Mine is wool/linen but the jersey fabric is the more traditional.


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## mhj (Oct 27, 2010)

I just received this:

https://www.uniqlo.com/us/store/lifewear/men-linen-cotton-jacket/076531-14-005

I'm very pleased with it for a $60 jacket. I didn't expect a youth oriented brand to fit my 46R body but an XL only needed the sleeves altered. They have a good selection of inexpensive summer jackets.


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## CMDC (Jan 31, 2009)

mhj said:


> I just received this:
> 
> https://www.uniqlo.com/us/store/lifewear/men-linen-cotton-jacket/076531-14-005
> 
> I'm very pleased with it for a $60 jacket. I didn't expect a youth oriented brand to fit my 46R body but an XL only needed the sleeves altered. They have a good selection of inexpensive summer jackets.


Was the length ok? From the measurements it looks really, really short.


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## roman totale XVII (Sep 18, 2009)

J. Keydge is the answer. Look for the 'Ivy' model. Totally unstructured, no darts, 3/2 roll. Their website is terrible, but the service is fast and reliable (about a week from ordering to get to the East Coast), plus they take off VAT which more than compensates for shipping. 
J Press used to sell some of their stuff too (branded as J Press). It looks like they may have some on the website this season. You used to be able to tell as the product number had 'ivy' in it. That's no longer the case, but it looks like they still carry some. 
John Simons in London also carries some exclusive make ups too, including a great wool herringbone and a seersucker. Pricy, but again you can take off 20% in VAT.


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## Reldresal (Oct 13, 2011)

Honestly, I bought the Merona from Target when it was $30. Now a wallet busting $40. They run a bit small. I would usually buy a M in such an item, but needed a L.


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## mhj (Oct 27, 2010)

CMDC said:


> Was the length ok? From the measurements it looks really, really short.


Yep, at 5'10" it covers my butt.


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## inq89 (Dec 3, 2008)

Funny you mention it OP, I was thinking of starting a brand on unstructured sport coats myself. Race you to it!


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## Rankiz (Jan 7, 2010)

mhj said:


> I just received this:
> 
> https://www.uniqlo.com/us/store/lifewear/men-linen-cotton-jacket/076531-14-005
> 
> I'm very pleased with it for a $60 jacket. I didn't expect a youth oriented brand to fit my 46R body but an XL only needed the sleeves altered. They have a good selection of inexpensive summer jackets.


What size would you recommend for me? I'm 5'8 ft and around 37-38" chest.


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## CMDC (Jan 31, 2009)

mhj said:


> I just received this:
> 
> https://www.uniqlo.com/us/store/lifewear/men-linen-cotton-jacket/076531-14-005
> 
> I'm very pleased with it for a $60 jacket. I didn't expect a youth oriented brand to fit my 46R body but an XL only needed the sleeves altered. They have a good selection of inexpensive summer jackets.


I just took the plunge on the jersey jacket in light grey. For $30 what the hell. Also grabbed a madras tie and cotton sweater. My first Uniqlo purchase.


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

Another one to consider is the Hardwick Frank and Bill jacket. Cotton (or any other fabric you want for a 50% upcharge), felt-only shoulder pads, undarted and made in USA.


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## tocqueville (Nov 15, 2009)

hardline_42 said:


> Another one to consider is the Hardwick Frank and Bill jacket. Cotton (or any other fabric you want for a 50% upcharge), felt-only shoulder pads, undarted and made in USA.


That looks great, Hardline. Great tip!


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## filfoster (Aug 23, 2011)

Another example of stuff that's not on the www.menssuitseparates.com site?


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## mhj (Oct 27, 2010)

Rankiz said:


> What size would you recommend for me? I'm 5'8 ft and around 37-38" chest.


There's a size chart on the site with measurements, it looks like you would be a S or M.


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

filfoster said:


> Another example of stuff that's not on the www.menssuitseparates.com site?


Yes, that one's not on Carl's site, though I'm sure he can get it and for a good price, too. You can read more about it on the americansuitstore site:

https://www.americansuitstore.com/Hardwick-Casual-Soft-Jacket-p/0062bil.htm


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## L-feld (Dec 3, 2011)

It's on Carl's site. First three jackets on this page: 

No idea why the cotton ones are listed as fall/winter jackets...

edit: Wait, no, that's the Bill, not the Frank & Bill.

Now I'm confused.


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## mayostard (Mar 10, 2013)

CMDC said:


> Was the length ok? From the measurements it looks really, really short.


where did you find the measurements? The picture does appear to be quite short to my eye and from what else I've seen of their website I am assuming anyone who is 6'5" should not bother even looking at their stuff.


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

mayostard said:


> where did you find the measurements? The picture does appear to be quite short to my eye and from what else I've seen of their website I am assuming anyone who is 6'5" should not bother even looking at their stuff.


You assume correctly. There's a "Size Chart" link on the page that has the measurements. The XXL maxes out at just 31" back length. The others are even shorter. If you normally wear a Short jacket size, these might work for you, but others probably shouldn't bother.


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## mayostard (Mar 10, 2013)

Orgetorix said:


> You assume correctly. There's a "Size Chart" link on the page that has the measurements. The XXL maxes out at just 31" back length. The others are even shorter. If you normally wear a Short jacket size, these might work for you, but others probably shouldn't bother.


yeah I just found it, it was hard to see. I can't figure out how they're making a jacket with 26.5" sleeve and 31" back. Who is that going to fit?


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## Rankiz (Jan 7, 2010)

My unconstructed jacket, thoughts?


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## unmodern (Aug 10, 2009)

I bought a version of this in navy linen last summer. Love it! A small is maybe a tad short on my 5'8.5" frame, but this is supposed to be a very casual jacket. It does cover my butt, and I think measures 28" BOC. I just have to remember to wear flat shoes with it, and usually jeans.


mhj said:


> I just received this:
> 
> https://www.uniqlo.com/us/store/lifewear/men-linen-cotton-jacket/076531-14-005
> 
> I'm very pleased with it for a $60 jacket. I didn't expect a youth oriented brand to fit my 46R body but an XL only needed the sleeves altered. They have a good selection of inexpensive summer jackets.


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## tocqueville (Nov 15, 2009)

L-feld said:


> It's on Carl's site. First three jackets on this page:
> 
> No idea why the cotton ones are listed as fall/winter jackets...
> 
> ...


It's as if Hardwick doesn't want us to buy their products...


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

Rankiz said:


> My unconstructed jacket, thoughts?
> https://i.imgur.com/xQCMyEZ.jpg


First thought: That tie is way too formal for the rest of the outfit.

Now, about the jacket: it looks short, going by where the hem falls in relation to your hands. That's only a very rough guide, though; we'd have to see a full-length shot to really judge the length. Other than that, though, it looks nice. What make is it?


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## L-feld (Dec 3, 2011)

tocqueville said:


> It's as if Hardwick doesn't want us to buy their products...


Maybe they are trying to nurture a cult following for their secret menu a la In-N-Out Burger.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

[HR][/HR]Sigh. I was intrigued by the Uniqlo at first, but they're a good two inches shorter than even the '60s jackets I've found.

Sadly, this was the same problem I encountered with J. Crew's cotton sport coat as well. A shame as it otherwise fit fine.

https://askandyaboutclothes.com/com...The-Madras-Shirt-thread&p=1397331#post1397331


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## mhj (Oct 27, 2010)

Orgetorix said:


> You assume correctly. There's a "Size Chart" link on the page that has the measurements. The XXL maxes out at just 31" back length. The others are even shorter. If you normally wear a Short jacket size, these might work for you, but others probably shouldn't bother.


As I mentioned, I'm 5'10" and wear a regular length jacket and the length is fine. My tailor, an older European gentleman who actually can make a suit for you, felt that it was a good fit.


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## MDP (Jan 14, 2012)

mhj said:


> As I mentioned, I'm 5'10" and wear a regular length jacket and the length is fine. My tailor, an older European gentleman who actually can make a suit for you, felt that it was a good fit.


As with a lot of alpha sized jackets, the length scales significantly with size. For a proper shoulder fit, I would need a small which would be more than 2" too short in length (I would need a Large for the proper length).

While there certainly may be some people whose body types these jackets would fit decently, there will also be some who would not find a good fit. It has more to do with chest/shoulders vs height, than simply height (as the S/R/L sizing is).


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## Trad-ish (Feb 19, 2011)

roman totale XVII said:


> J. Keydge is the answer. Look for the 'Ivy' model. Totally unstructured, no darts, 3/2 roll. Their website is terrible, but the service is fast and reliable (about a week from ordering to get to the East Coast), plus they take off VAT which more than compensates for shipping.
> J Press used to sell some of their stuff too (branded as J Press). It looks like they may have some on the website this season. You used to be able to tell as the product number had 'ivy' in it. That's no longer the case, but it looks like they still carry some.
> John Simons in London also carries some exclusive make ups too, including a great wool herringbone and a seersucker. Pricy, but again you can take off 20% in VAT.


They have a really cool madras waistcoat as well.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

I only wish the website weren't in French only...


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

Jovan said:


> I only wish the website weren't in French only...


You're a lousy Canadian :tongue2:


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

I know, right?


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## oxford cloth button down (Jan 1, 2012)

Jovan said:


> [HR][/HR]Sigh. I was intrigued by the Uniqlo at first, but they're a good two inches shorter than even the '60s jackets I've found.
> 
> Sadly, this was the same problem I encountered with J. Crew's cotton sport coat as well. A shame as it otherwise fit fine.
> 
> https://askandyaboutclothes.com/com...The-Madras-Shirt-thread&p=1397331#post1397331


Mine (premium linen) is a small and measures 28.75" BOC. I would say that is about a current 38s. Definitely not short for a small.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

The size chart shows 28" for M and 29.5" for L, the two sizes I would normally look at. Both are going to look quite short on my 6'1 self. I seem to recall your model had three buttons and no darts, however, which could explain the discrepancy.


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## teekayvee (Sep 13, 2008)

Rankiz said:


> My unconstructed jacket, thoughts?
> OTE]
> 
> Dude, I like that coat. Yes, it's a tad short, but gorgeous!
> ...


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## L-feld (Dec 3, 2011)

L-feld said:


> It's on Carl's site. First three jackets on this page:
> 
> No idea why the cotton ones are listed as fall/winter jackets...
> 
> ...


Okay, just heard back from Carl.

There is the Frank and there is the Bill. They are the same jacket (felt only shoulder pads, undarted front, no chest piece, lapped seams, two buttons) with the exception that the Frank has besom flapped pockets and the Bill has unflapped patch pockets.

The cotton jackets listed on Carl's site are the same as the ones pictured on American Suit Store, but are cheaper. They have the unflapped patch pockets.

You can get an unstructured jacket w/ besom flap pockets, but it's a special order.

And apparently, both jackets have "Frank and Bill" in the label, just to screw with us.


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

L-feld said:


> Okay, just heard back from Carl.
> 
> There is the Frank and there is the Bill. They are the same jacket (felt only shoulder pads, undarted front, no chest piece, lapped seams, two buttons) with the exception that the Frank has besom flapped pockets and the Bill has unflapped patch pockets.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the clarification.


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## CMDC (Jan 31, 2009)

I received the Uniqlo jersey jacket today--fast shipping by the way--and I have to say I'm quite happy with it. Not as short as I feared. The sleeves are a tad long but nothing I can't live with. I'm a 39R and the Medium was the correct choice. This is essentially a polo shirt jacket. Just like a Teba. Its unvented but there is absolutely no structure to it. For $30, a good deal and something I think I'll wear quite a bit in the DC climate.

https://www.uniqlo.com/us/store/lifewear/item/076006?ref=mens-clothing/mens-outerwear/mens-blazers


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## fishertw (Jan 27, 2006)

Anybody tried a Filson unconstructed sport coat?


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## Rankiz (Jan 7, 2010)

Orgetorix said:


> First thought: That tie is way too formal for the rest of the outfit.
> 
> Now, about the jacket: it looks short, going by where the hem falls in relation to your hands. That's only a very rough guide, though; we'd have to see a full-length shot to really judge the length. Other than that, though, it looks nice. What make is it?


The jacket lenght is perfect for me, but the tie is a little too formal indeed. The jacket is a LBM 1911.


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## bd79cc (Dec 20, 2006)

Very nice. I like the light shoulders and the lack of darts. The two-button front I can live with.



hardline_42 said:


> Another one to consider is the Hardwick Frank and Bill jacket. Cotton (or any other fabric you want for a 50% upcharge), felt-only shoulder pads, undarted and made in USA.


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

bd79cc said:


> Very nice. I like the light shoulders and the lack of darts. The two-button front I can live with.


My tailor charges $12 to add a button and button hole (finished on the correct side) to effectively turn any 2 button jacket into a 3/2.


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## alkydrinker (Apr 24, 2012)

To resurrect a slightly old thread...did anyone buy the Hardwick Frank & Bill jacket Hardline posted the picture of? 

I am interested in this jacket and am wondering if anyone can comment on the fit.


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## nerdykarim (Dec 13, 2005)

I posted some pics of it in the Hardwick thread, but I didn't keep the jacket.


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## DoghouseReilly (Jul 25, 2010)

nerdykarim said:


> I posted some pics of it in the Hardwick thread, but I didn't keep the jacket.


Nice jacket. All the details look right. Why didn't you keep it, Nerdy?


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

DoghouseReilly said:


> Nice jacket. All the details look right. Why didn't you keep it, Nerdy?


IIRC, nk was actually in talks with Hardwick to manufacture a custom, natural shouldered 3/2 sportcoat and the Frank and Bill was sent to him by Hardwick as a possible starting point (or the pics were taken at the factory, I don't remember which). That whole thread is a really great read with lots of info on Hardwick's options.


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## nerdykarim (Dec 13, 2005)

Sorry for the late response; I'm travelling all weekend. Hardline is right--I began communicating with Hardwick re: a line of inexpensive trad sacks 14-16 mos ago. They sent me a couple jackets and that F&B one is a 38, which fits my torso form but not me (I would have needed a 40). My project was ultimately abandoned for a variety of reasons.

Among some various minor issues I had with the jacket, I remember being annoyed at how wide the shoulder width measurements were, size-for-size. IIRC, that was my biggest issue with the jacket.


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## alkydrinker (Apr 24, 2012)

nerdykarim said:


> I remember being annoyed at how wide the shoulder width measurements were, size-for-size. IIRC, that was my biggest issue with the jacket.


Interesting. I never think of an unstructured shoulder as possibly being too wide...I usually associate that with shoulders that are over built with padding. I guess the result would be the shoulder seam sits too low down the arm.


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## Anon 18th Cent. (Oct 27, 2008)

Just learned from the horse's mouth that Keydges are now mostly finished in France but the main part of the making process comes from China or Romania.


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## teekayvee (Sep 13, 2008)

Edwin Ek said:


> Just learned from the horse's mouth that Keydges are now mostly finished in France but the main part of the making process comes from China or Romania.


For what it's worth, mine (purchased a few months ago) doesn't have a "Made in...." tag in it. I'm pretty sure if it was indeed French-made, they'd splash that all over the place. (No law here in the EU that forces manufacturers to provide info on country of origin, although they'll regulate pretty much everything else.)

BTW, I don't buy the "it's made in China so must be crap" mantra although I find the commies-turned-capitalists there disgusting. In any case I'm happy with my J.Keydge.


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## L-feld (Dec 3, 2011)

nerdykarim said:


> I posted some pics of it in the Hardwick thread, but I didn't keep the jacket.


What was the fabric like? Is it a heavy canvas or is it more of a light weight material?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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