# O'Connell's Navy Blazer



## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

Hey guys, I wanted to collect some opinions from those in the know about this particular blazer. I've ravaged the archives and seen almost nothing specific about the blazer itself aside from the fact that it is supposedly half-canvassed and that their customer service is top notch. 

I e-mailed them with a few questions and was warned, along with my answers, that their coats fit "a bit roomier" than most. Now my suspicion is that they are aware that most people are not prepared for the type of fit a sack coat affords and that their answer was relative to other cuts generally and not other sacks specifically. 

So basically I'm looking for comments on fit relative to other blazers, shoulder softness factor (S.S.F.), etc. Thanks in advance.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

I see you already used the search function. I recall asking about this blazer perhaps 6 months ago, but don't recall if there were any comments specific to fit. I think I recall someone mentioning that the O'Connell coats aren't super full, but I'm not certain. Many of their Harris are Southwick, but I don't think they make the blazer, and would suspect that different makes will offer different fits.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

It seems most comments were peripheral to specific information. I've been very pleased with vintage 346 sacks, but the amount of competition for a 40R navy blazer on eBay or the exchange is fierce and they're very scarce to begin with. I'm looking to establish a more current favorite that I can count on if I haven't found another vintage offering by the fall. 

Brooks' modern sacks are very roomy compared to the vintage and the shoulders are a little more built up as well. Press is out of control with their shoulders at this point. I haven't tried the Southwick Douglas, but will when I make it back to Baltimore. O'Connell's is too off the beaten path to try in person.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Trip English said:


> Brooks' modern sacks are very roomy compared to the vintage and the shoulders are a little more built up as well. Press is out of control with their shoulders at this point. I haven't tried the Southwick Douglas, but will when I make it back to Baltimore. O'Connell's is too off the beaten path to try in person.


Interesting. Someone else here commented that the last batch of Brooks sacks were cut a good deal smaller. Also wouldn't be surprised if the Douglas has a bit more padding than it used too. I've only seen the O'Connell's jackets on-line, but they look about as close to a tradtional natural shoulder as I've seen recently.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

> It seems most comments were peripheral to specific information.


Contrary to claims, the O'Connell blazer has been discussed at great length on many previous threads. But what is there to say? It's a blazer. It's impossible to compare with any other blazer unless one happens to own each brand and no one here does. And comparing modern jackets to vintage jackets is completely pointless, however much it might sooth the trembling OCD of some people (or unless you are Japanese).

By the way Trip, I've seen some of your photos and you need shoulder padding.


> O'Connell's is too off the beaten path to try in person.


Believe me, the Huber family thanks God every day that they are not in NYC or some other large market.


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## chacend (Mar 4, 2008)

Doctor Damage said:


> Contrary to claims, the O'Connell blazer has been discussed at great length on many previous threads.


Really, DD? Either many of us are inept at the search function or this is just not true. I too was recently in search of a blazer and really wanted to find good info on the O'Connells version but real experience with it is just not to be found. Of course I could be wrong but you would have to produce the threads to make me believe it.


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## Dragoon (Apr 1, 2010)

https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?64507-Best-Blazer
https://askandyaboutclothes.com/com...zer-JPress-vs-BB-vs-Ben-Silver-vs-O-Connell-s
https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?65569-New-spring-summer-weight-blue-blazer
https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?83313-O-Connell-s-Coat-Blazer-Pictures
https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?76985-What-s-the-best-navy-sack-blazer
https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?100493-Navy-sport-coat-or-blazer
https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?86477-O-Connell-s-Blazer
https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?104061-Blue-Blazer-Blues
https://askandyaboutclothes.com/com...Why-Brooks-should-carry-the-quot-Mogambo-quot


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## chacend (Mar 4, 2008)

Dragoon said:


> https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?64507-Best-Blazer
> https://askandyaboutclothes.com/com...zer-JPress-vs-BB-vs-Ben-Silver-vs-O-Connell-s
> https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?65569-New-spring-summer-weight-blue-blazer
> https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?83313-O-Connell-s-Coat-Blazer-Pictures
> ...


So Dragoon, did you actually read any of those threads or just simply do the same search we all do when looking for info on the OConnells blazer? If you had actually read them, you would have seen Trip's point. Very little first hand info and a max of three people amongst all those posts who actually own it. Of those three only one provided a substantial comment. Thanks for playing, please try again!:icon_headagainstwal


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## Dragoon (Apr 1, 2010)

I'm very sorry to have wasted your time. I was trying to be helpful.


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## MacT (Feb 16, 2008)

^^ That's the way I took it. I think the OP simply meant that there have not been many detailed posts about the OC's blazer. Two posts by the same member in the 7th thread probably is the most specific I've seen & it's a couple of years old. IIRC, Doc mentioned having both the all season and the doeskin, and liked them both. 

Though I would not rule out the 1818 just yet, I like OC's house cut, so that's probably where I'll get it, if I go for a blazer any time soon. IMO, what padding there is on their jackets (not much) is well placed, and the shoulder width is right for me. Fits easy enough around the arms without being too baggy in the waist. My 2 cents.


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## chacend (Mar 4, 2008)

Dragoon said:


> I'm very sorry to have wasted your time. I was trying to be helpful.


I apologize for being so snippy, it's just that every time this subject comes up (and one of your suggested threads was my own) folks recommend OConnells based on reputation but not actual experience. So contrary to Doctor D's assertion and proven by your search there is not a lot of info out there. Again, I apologize.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^
Chacend and others: Having just checked, I can say with reasonable assurance that I have four of O'Connell's jackets hanging in my closets, though not one of their navy blazers. The oldest has been in my wear rotation for perhaps just about two and a half years and the newest has never been worn, except to confirm sizing, when I purchased one of their corduroy's at an off-season discount. The three jackets that I have worn to a reasonable degree, are all great looking sack designs and are holding up quite well, I think...they all look virtually brand new at this point. I have also purchased two G9's, a fisherman's sweater, Trumpers cologne and various accessories from O'Connell's and every purchase has met and frequently expeeded my expectations. Given that the brothers Huber, have managed to thrill me so consistently, with their service, friendship and products during and after each of these prior purchases, I have no doubt as to the quality of and value represented by their navy blazer. This assessment is based on my experience of several of their sport jackets!


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## chacend (Mar 4, 2008)

Eagle, 

Thanks, but unfortunately this does nothing to help Trip, me or others in regard to this blazer. I don't think anyone here doubts OConnells quality or customer service. We want fit and feature information on the blazers, the quality seems to be assured.


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## Pink and Green (Jul 22, 2009)

Questions for those three that may own:

• Natural, soft shoulder? How much padding?
• What is the hand like?
• Roomy for a sack or just normal?
• Buttons - only brass or self-colored available?


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

Thanks Chacend, I appreciate your support in trying to elicit comment on specifics. I would argue that there is a wealth of very specific information about many other garments including various brands of khakis, wool sweaters, waxed cotton coats, various shoes, etc. so asking these types of specific questions are not out of line with the granularity of discussion that's been well established on these boards. Fortunately I had a very helpful PM that cleared up many of my questions by way of describing the fit of a cord blazer also in the house cut. I think I'm going to dive in and will report the results. 

And to anyone who thinks it overly fussy to ask even the most basic questions as to the fit of one of the most popular types of garments in all of clothing, why on earth would you spend any time on an enthusiasts forum devoted to a very specific style of dress? One would think such details might, perchance, come up from time to time. 

And my shoulders do not need any more padding than the granite-like muscles acquired through diligent back-flip based exercise routines. I'm an effing adonis.


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## Pink and Green (Jul 22, 2009)

Pictures as well, please. I believe you and I wear the same size. Then the thread can stand for all time for or against the product.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Chacend said:


> Thanks, but unfortunately this does nothing to help Trip, me or others in regard to this blazer. I don't think anyone here doubts OConnells quality or customer service. We want fit and feature information on the blazers, the quality seems to be assured.





Trip English said:


> And to anyone who thinks it overly fussy to ask even the most basic questions as to the fit of one of the most popular types of garments in all of clothing, why on earth would you spend any time on an enthusiasts forum devoted to a very specific style of dress? One would think such details might, perchance, come up from time to time.


EDIT: What's the point of arguing? I'm not here to save souls.
EDIT2: This morning I feel like arguing. Trip & Chacend, are you guys custom tailors? Because I think only a custom tailor would be able to use measurements and written descriptions to make an educated guess about fit. The rest of us can only judge fit when we wear a garment. I maintain an autistic fascination with tiny details and measurements and "how many angels" debates are not only unproductive but encourage wildly variable ideas about what looks good and what works and lead to some serious style disasters.

And speaking more generally I am really disappointed by the currently fashionable technique of attacking anyone who disagrees with cherished beliefs, no matter how ridiculous, by asserting that the person has no business posting on a website dedicated to clothing. Even Alex Kabbazz threw that one at me. I assume the management is trying to encourage new members to join, but new members should also read old threads and educate themselves up to a basic knowledge level before running their mouths. It's all there, but no one seems to remember any of it. This thread is a great example of that: we already have several threads discussing O'Connells blazers but now we have another that asks the same thing and is filled with the same information. That much more noise for readers to sift through.


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## CPal (Dec 28, 2003)

What is their return policy? Seems to me that ordering one and trying it on makes the most sense. then you can post pics and put this to rest


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## Joe Beamish (Mar 21, 2008)

I've asked this question a coupla times. Nobody seems to have the answer, really, quite. If I were in the market I'd just call OC and have a chat. Their return policy should keep you out of any commitments you don't want. I'd guess shipping would be the cost of flirting.


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## anselmo1 (Dec 22, 2006)

I have the luxury of driving to O'Connell's in about 10 minutes from my home. I have been shopping there since the early 1960's and can tell you all the merchandise is "quality" made in the USA or Canada except for some socks that are made in Italy. Customer service is outstanding and any items that have been tailored have been perfect.

My cedar closet has a large assortment of Blazers, Sport Jackets and Suits which I have purchased from O'Connell's. All of my G-9's which I have owned have been purchased from their establishment. I can even remember when I purchased a yellow G-9 which I purchased back in 1967 which was the first color that deviated from the English Tan, Natural and Navy colors.

I suggest if you are worried about fit, have a Navy Blue Blazer custom made by Samuelsohn at one of the better men's shops in Virginia, Maryland or DC.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

CPal said:


> What is their return policy? Seems to me that ordering one and trying it on makes the most sense. then you can post pics and put this to rest


In my experience, O'Connells has been very good about accepting a return, for a larger sized garment. With two of my tweeds I took a chance on a "generously" sized 44R fitting and had to return same for 46R's!


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## bd79cc (Dec 20, 2006)

Pink and Green said:


> Questions for those three that may own:
> 
> • Natural, soft shoulder? How much padding?
> • What is the hand like?
> ...


1. The shoulders are thinly padded, but are sewn to "sit up" like the shoulders on some J. Press jackets. The shoulders don't "lie down" like the ones on the 3/2 sack from Brooks. Interestingly enough, both the O'Connell's and the Brooks blazers have about the same modest amount of shoulder padding.

Speaking of J. Press, I'll be dropping by the New Haven store later in the week.

2. The O'Connell blazer's worsted wool doesn't have the fine hand of the Loro Piana worsted wool used in the Brooks sack. Considering the price difference, though, it's surprisingly close. The most notable features of the O'Connell blazer are its light weight and its durability. The jacket works in south Texas all year, including summer, and is cooler to wear than the Brooks. It's also tough as nails. I lent my O'Connell's blazer to my son for use as a school blazer this past year. Some of you know that that means - the jacket gets horsed around in, stuffed in lockers and gym bags, and used as a seat cushion and hand towel. With regular cleaning and pressing, the O'Connell's blazer made it through the year needing only button-tightening. The Brooks blazer wouldn't have survived two weeks of this treatment. I know because I rescued it after the first week.

3. The O'Connell's blazer fits wide and straight and is on the slightly roomy side of the 3/2 sack universe. But not excessively so. The Brooks blazer seems to come from a more complex pattern, since it offers a bit more shape between chest and waist and under the arms. The sleeves of the Brooks blazer taper a bit more, too. Again, given the price difference, I would expect this.

4. Sorry - self-colored buttons never even entered my mind. A good question, though. Also, you might check the Waterbury Button Co. (www.waterburybutton.com) to see if you can find your new O'Connell's blazer's brass buttons listed. My buttons are from the old LaSalle Hotel in Chicago!

As before, I strongly recommend the O'Connell's navy blazer. Its light weight, ruggedness, classic 3/2 sack styling and moderate pricing make it perfect for my needs and an unbeatable value for those of us looking for an everyday blazer.


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

I know very well what #2 means (hilarious, accurate list of abuses), and there can be no stronger testimonal for the OC blazer.


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## Reptilicus (Dec 14, 2004)

Trip English said:


> I think I'm going to dive in and will report the results.


Please do. I have been trying to decide between a BB 1818 Sack and this model for some time and I would love to her your thoughts.


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## MacT (Feb 16, 2008)

bd79cc said:


> 1. The shoulders are thinly padded, but are sewn to "sit up" like the shoulders on some J. Press jackets. The shoulders don't "lie down" like the ones on the 3/2 sack from Brooks. Interestingly enough, both the O'Connell's and the Brooks blazers have about the same modest amount of shoulder padding.
> 
> Speaking of J. Press, I'll be dropping by the New Haven store later in the week.
> 
> ...


Great review. From what I've seen and experienced with OCs-branded jackets, I'd have to agree on the shoulders. Slight disagreement on the body of the jackets-- wouldn't say there's waist suppression exactly, but they don't hang straight down either. But then I don't have the blazer. You might have convinced me that it's an excellent blazer choice, though. Thanks for the post.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

Well my blazer has arrived. Long story short: I'm a fan. There are however, some very curious elements to this tale that I shall divulge by tomorrow including pictures.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Trip English said:


> Well my blazer has arrived. Long story short: I'm a fan. There are however, some very curious elements to this tale that I shall divulge by tomorrow including pictures.


Glad you like your jacket. How do you find the sizing?


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

A very accurate representation of the size. With a few modern sacks I've found the cut to be so generous at the waist and the arms cut so broadly that the jacket can feel oversized even when fitting correctly in the chest, length, etc. The O'C's model is just the opposite and reminds me of my vintage 346 blazer. 

I'll get a little more in depth later today. I should have some free time at work.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

My blazer arrived after two days well packed in a large flat box. It was on an O'Connell's hanger in an O'Connell's garment bag. I liked it as soon as I pulled it out. As has been mentioned, the fabric is clearly not the refined wools used by Brooks & others. It is a hearty looking wool which is exactly what I'm looking for.



















The fit is superb given my criteria: a body that's roomy but not overlarge, sleeves that are tapered to reasonable sized sleeve openings, a very soft shoulder, and an overall beefy feel to the material and construction. I should note that it is primarily the fit of the arms and shoulders that kept me from Press and Brooks. The bodies, I've found, fit just fine.










The roll is also very nice and I'm sure to become protective of it when sending it out to be cleaned.










The buttons are good looking and on par with vintage 346 blazers.

But then comes the mystery...










As I'm exploring the various labels I notice in the left breast pocket an interesting tag...










There's clearly a story here. Hopefully someone can shed some light, but I'm sure it's nothing more than the blazers originating from the same supplier. If that's the case J.Press is definately making a premium over O'Connell's.

Hopefully this is somewhat helpful. Any questions, I'm here.


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## Joe Beamish (Mar 21, 2008)

Wow, Trip. First of all, this forum has badly needed a proper look at the OC blazer and you've really done it.

The jacket looks great. I appreciate your comparisons to the old 346 model.

Your punch line, though? I'm not sure what to do with that. Except that when I get around to picking up an OC blazer, I'll request the Press make fo sho. 

(EDIT: Actually it's not a "Press make", right? Just a label. Maybe Southwick made it....)


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## MDCEMII (Apr 4, 2010)

Looks great. Thanks very much for posting photos. 

I've been seriously considering picking this up for the past couple weeks, and I've been watching this thread closely for your feedback. One thing I'm wondering about is the length, of both the body and of the sleeves. I tend to fall, frustratingly, between a 46R and a 46L, and I'm wondering if you could talk a bit about whether it seems to fall on the shorter or longer side of things. And in regard to the sleeves, would you be able to comment on roughly how much extra fabric there is for letting down? 

Thanks again. It seems to fit you perfectly... Enjoy!


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## Sir Cingle (Aug 22, 2009)

Trip: the blazer looks fantastic. It seems closer to a 2.5/2 than a 3/2, which suggests a kinship with many current Press offerings. I, too, would like to know why the Press tag appeared in the blazer. Perhaps a call to O'Connell's can clear this up?


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

Sir Cingle said:


> I, too, would like to know why the Press tag appeared in the blazer. Perhaps a call to O'Connell's can clear this up?


In a way I like the mystery!


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

MDCEMII said:


> Looks great. Thanks very much for posting photos.
> 
> I've been seriously considering picking this up for the past couple weeks, and I've been watching this thread closely for your feedback. One thing I'm wondering about is the length, of both the body and of the sleeves. I tend to fall, frustratingly, between a 46R and a 46L, and I'm wondering if you could talk a bit about whether it seems to fall on the shorter or longer side of things. And in regard to the sleeves, would you be able to comment on roughly how much extra fabric there is for letting down?
> 
> Thanks again. It seems to fit you perfectly... Enjoy!


Certainly.

The sleeves fall about 1.5 inches longer than I usually wear, but this I've found to be standard in OTR jackets. The body, however, is also a bit longer. Closer to the tip of my thumbnail than the knuckle which is how I usually find the OTR fit.

The only issue is that there is not much room to let out the sleeve. I would hesitate to take more tahn 3/4" out at the most, but even that might be pushing it.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

Joe Beamish said:


> Wow, Trip. First of all, this forum has badly needed a proper look at the OC blazer and you've really done it.
> 
> The jacket looks great. I appreciate your comparisons to the old 346 model.
> 
> ...


Thanks.

I guess I might just call over and see what the deal is with the stowaway Press tag!


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## MDCEMII (Apr 4, 2010)

Trip English said:


> Certainly.
> 
> The sleeves fall about 1.5 inches longer than I usually wear, but this I've found to be standard in OTR jackets. The body, however, is also a bit longer. Closer to the tip of my thumbnail than the knuckle which is how I usually find the OTR fit.
> 
> The only issue is that there is not much room to let out the sleeve. I would hesitate to take more tahn 3/4" out at the most, but even that might be pushing it.


Thanks very much. That's great news, actually -- 1.5" longer in the body should get me into the 46R comfortably, especially given my preference for "slightly too short" over "slightly too long." The sleeves could pose a bit of a problem with only 3/4" to be let out, but it'll be close, anyway.

Alright, thanks again for your help.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

Well it's confirmed. Apparently this is a pretty frequent occurrence and the salesman even asked if it had an O'Connell's label at all! So anyone looking at the J.Press model, save some coin and shuffle on up to buffalo!


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## maximar (Jan 11, 2010)

I love that mystery tag! Hopefully i'll have time to swing by OC this summer. 
Thanks for posting and congrats for getting a jacket with two prominent made made by a prominent suit maker.


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## Starch (Jun 28, 2010)

Another thought (which may not be original):

Those two jackets that O'Connell refers to as "Magee Tweed Sportcoat by Southwick" look very JPress-ish. Which should not come as a surprise, as J. Press' "Donegal Mist" tweeds are made by Magee (says so right on the tag).


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## Starch (Jun 28, 2010)

And these two bear some similarities, if you adjust for J. Press's apparently more skillful photographer:





$295 at O'Connell vs. $296.25 at J. Press, though:

- The J. Press price is a 25%-off sale (does O'Connell have periodic sales?);
- The J. Press item can be had for $237 if you wait for it to go on 40%-off in January.

The blue chambray sportcoat looks awfully similar too, except they use different color thread for the buttonholes.


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## MacT (Feb 16, 2008)

^^^Starch-- the Press cord jackets are made in Canada, finer wale, and fit differently from the OC version (US made). O'Connell's did have them on sale (20% off) a few months ago.

Trip, looks like a winner-- enjoy.


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## Pink and Green (Jul 22, 2009)

A very, very nice blazer. I will add it to the contention pile. It seems a fine garment. Thanks so much for the pics.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Trip, a belated thanks for answering my question about sizing, and for all your work in posting the additional information. Nice jacket! You do it proud!


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## MacT (Feb 16, 2008)

This thread came around at a good time for my blazer decision, and I'm glad that some good information came out of it. Though I was leaning toward O'Connell's, I did waver a bit after trying on the BB 1818. It's hard to imagine anyone being unhappy with one, especially since they are on sale. A blazer that can take a few punches appeals to me though, so I made the call to O'Connell's.

They are always great on the phone, and answered all my questions. Seems they sell both a US-made Hart Schaffner & Marx, and a Canadian-made S. Cohen model. I asked for the HSM. 

This leads to the mystery label in Trip's coat. We know that Cohen makes Press blazers-- at least some of them, as several members have mentioned before. There have been reports from knowledgeable members that Press also sources some of its goods from HSM. We can rule out Southwick as the maker of the Press blazer, because the item numbers on Southwick coats start with a J followed by 4 digits-- all of the current Press blazers are J + 5 digits. So, the question for Trip is: is there a Country of Origin label in your blazer? If it's made in USA, a HSM garment worker screwed up with the label. If Canada, a Cohen. Either way, nice coat.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

For the record, mine was made in our 51st state, so it must be a Cohen.


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## MacT (Feb 16, 2008)

Trip English said:


> For the record, mine was made in our 51st state, so it must be a Cohen.


Fabrique au Canada, eh? Well, I'll be curious to see if the fit of the HSM differs markedly from the Cohen. Based on my conversations with them, OCs seems to be serious about having their suppliers make jackets to their specs, so I'd expect not. It wouldn't seem fair not to, so next week, another review.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

I look forward to it!


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## G&T (Jul 2, 2010)

I've contemplated this blazer myself. Thanks for the review, Trip. This will be the next blazer I buy.


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## dukekook (Sep 5, 2008)

Thanks for the pics, Trip. A detailed view of the fabric was keeping me from making a decision, and you have helped push me in the direction of the OC blazer. This is an extremely useful thread.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Trip English said:


> There's clearly a story here. Hopefully someone can shed some light, but I'm sure it's nothing more than the blazers originating from the same supplier. If that's the case J.Press is definately making a premium over O'Connell's.





Sir cingle said:


> I, too, would like to know why the Press tag appeared in the blazer. Perhaps a call to O'Connell's can clear this up?





Trip English said:


> Well it's confirmed. Apparently this is a pretty frequent occurrence and the salesman even asked if it had an O'Connell's label at all!


Well thanks heavens that's been cleared up. Now that O'Connells has the Press-seal-of-approval, they should sell a few more units. Mind you, this was previously confirmed about four years ago in this forum.


Trip English said:


> For the record, mine was made in our 51st state, so it must be a Cohen.


51st state? People still use that phrase?


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Trip English said:


> A very accurate representation of the size. With a few modern sacks I've found the cut to be so generous at the waist and the arms cut so broadly that the jacket can feel oversized even when fitting correctly in the chest, length, etc.


As a counterpoint, I find the armholes to be too large and low for a good fit, but RTW is inevitably about accepting some compromises. You find the armholes fine, I don't... which is pointless as we are completely different people. This topic really needs someone to buy the same sized blazer from several different brands and measure them up and comment on relative fit (the way Patrick and others have done with chinos). Comparisons with vintage are even more pointless as patterns and proportions and designs have changed over time, which BB freely admits.


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## burton (Nov 11, 2007)

As this is likely to become the definitive thread on the OC Blazer, I should add that mine came with patch pockets. I don't know if there's many of these left, but it's another option that may be out there in certain sizes.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

When was yours purchased, Burton? Is it made in the US or Canada?


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## jht3 (Jul 8, 2009)

great thread. this would have been VERY helpful last winter. even though i own a few O'Connell's house suits i instead opted for the BB 1818 sack on sale due the the lack of detailed info on their blazer. my 42L 1818 is longer in the sleeves, roomier in the waist, and a finer wool than my OC house canadian suits...if they can be compared at all.


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## burton (Nov 11, 2007)

Trip English said:


> When was yours purchased, Burton? Is it made in the US or Canada?


Purchased in Spring 2008. Made in USA. No other clues as to provenance.


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## MacT (Feb 16, 2008)

*US Made O'Connell's Blazer*

The blazer arrived & thumbs up. No mystery tag-- just a straight-forward Union Made in the USA label, except for the UNITE HERE exhortation. I have not found a tag with an RN# to positively identify the maker, but I'm told it's a HSM.

Style and fit are very much like the Southwick Douglas, IMO. As bd79cc mentioned before, it hangs fairly straight, and since he & Mr. Huber said it was on the roomy side, I decided to take a chance on a 41, rather than my usual 42. Good decision-- there's just a slight break in the vertical line at the bottom of the rib cage, and the chest fits just fine. If you're a tweener, don't hesitate to go down a size.

Compared to the 1818, I'd say that it's a little less refined fabric-wise, the armholes are a bit deeper, and a bit less trim. The roll is softer than the BB-- more of a 3 to 2.5--the BB is a sharp roll to 2. Edit: forgot to mention that this blazer has a hook vent, BB does not.

Trip's jacket looks to have a more texture to the weave than this one -- not a negative, IMO, just a difference. It feels like it will be very comfortable; the fabric gives when I bend my arms & seems like a versatile weight.

Shoulders have a nice rounded appearance-- seam-to-seam = 18" & point-to-point about 18.75" Not much padding & looks a lot like the Douglas shoulder to my eye. A couple of pics to give you an idea of the shoulder line & button appearance (buttons are pretty muted-- tasteful, I think). Don't mind the olive cavalry twills peaking out of the jacket -- sorry for the overall crappiness of the pictures.


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## tocqueville (Nov 15, 2009)

The Anderson-Little thread, in addition to my own search for a navy blazer, has me wondering if anyone can update or otherwise add to this thread. The OC $350 blazer seems to be the best value option in the realm of US made blazers--a step above Anderson-Little (100% and at least half-canvased) and perhaps a half-step below an 1818. Of course, it's also a sack, which I dislike, but I might be able to talk myself into it. There's also a darted J.Press blazer going for $415 or so, but I don't know how long that sale will last. Anyway, you O'Connell's blazer owners, please post away!


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## cvac (Aug 6, 2006)

You can easily find out what company made your blazer by doing an RN query.

See here:

https://www.ftc.gov/bcp/rn/index.shtml

Unfortunately the search function is down as of right now.

Re: O'Connell's and who their suppliers/manufacturers are, when I ordered a suit by phone a couple years ago the man that helped me was pretty straightforward about different makers, fit, etc. If anyone is thinking of ordering from them I'd suggest giving them a call rather than using the website.

Lastly, Cohen jackets are not half-canvassed in the way that Southwick or BB 1818 is. There is a chest piece in there but it doesn't go down very far and it doesn't go through the lapels at all. It's your basic fused jacket that you get when you're spending in this price range. If you want a canvassed jacket from O.C., you'll have to shell out for a Samuelsohn, H.Freeman, or one of their old stock pieces that happens to be canvassed.

That is why the lapels look the way they do. FWIW, my Cohen Press blazer has held up very well in the 3.5 years I've had it with two caveats: I never dry clean it and I don't wear it in the rain.


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## bllusc (Aug 19, 2011)

I just picked up an O'Connell's blazer today. Its the USA made one, no patch pockets. Cost $395 and had a sticker over the paper cuff placard which I peeled off to reveal the word Press. I checked the J.Press site and lo there was my blazer, but for $550! Thank You O'Connells! Great selection and service, worth the 3 hr drive from Canada! The pretty girl at customs smiled at my honesty when I declared my purchases and sent me off without paying any duty! Great day.

Brian


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## Starch (Jun 28, 2010)

The O'Connell's blazers seem to come from multiple sources: note that their website says the standard navy one is "made in Canada or USA." I suspect they come from two makers, and it's the luck of the draw which you get. My impression is that the current J. Press blue blazer is Canadian.

For what it's worth, I have a recent green O'Connell's blazer (USA), and it's clearly different from my blue J. Press one, though the latter is old enough that it probably doesn't reperesent the current product. On the O'Connel, the fabric is harder, it lies stiffer, the armholes are very low, the lapels are different, etc. It's also sized weirdly (credit them for noting this on the site): marked at least a whole size lower than the actual fit.

Price note: while the everyday prices at J. Press are higher, if you wait for sales, the prices are likely a little lower than the lowest O'Connell's.


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## hockeyinsider (May 8, 2006)

bllusc said:


> I just picked up an O'Connell's blazer today. Its the USA made one, no patch pockets. Cost $395 and had a sticker over the paper cuff placard which I peeled off to reveal the word Press. I checked the J.Press site and lo there was my blazer, but for $550! Thank You O'Connells! Great selection and service, worth the 3 hr drive from Canada! The pretty girl at customs smiled at my honesty when I declared my purchases and sent me off without paying any duty! Great day.
> 
> Brian


It's seriously a J. Press jacket?


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## Thom Browne's Schooldays (Jul 29, 2007)

I'm pretty much set as far as blazer go, but reading this thread I'm tempted to call up O'Connells for one now...


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

I really like the one that Trip got.


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## bllusc (Aug 19, 2011)

With regard to the O'Connell's blazer being manufactured by the same company as Press, the card on the sleeve said Press, and it looks exactly the same as the tropical blazer on the J Press site except that the O'Connells blazer has four sleeve buttons and the photo on the J Press site has three. Granted, I have never beheld a J Press blazer in the flesh and can only go by comparing my in hand garment and the photo on the J Press website.

Brian


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## WouldaShoulda (Aug 5, 2009)

That goodness the suprise inside didn't read "JCPenny!!"


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## Starch (Jun 28, 2010)

I don't know if it is or isn't. Certainly, _some_ items sold by other retailers are made by the same manufacturers that make similar J. Press items, unless J. Press has only captive suppliers, which isn't the case. Two obvious examples: Trip English's blazer near the top of this very thread; the oxford shoes that J. Press sells are Sanders, and the same thing (either exactly or awfully close) can be had elsewhere; needlepoint items are made by Smathers & Branson, and available various places.

In this particular case (the US-made O'Connell blazer), I'm not too convinced:
- "Press" is not the same thing as "J. Press."
- Navy blue sack blazers all look pretty darn similar in photographs.
- I'm pretty sure that the current J. Press lightweight blazer (and the one Trip English got from O'Connell) are made by Cohen in Canada, not in the US.
- I have both an older (c. 6 years) US-made J. Press blazer and a current O'Connell US-made blazer, and they're obviously different.

Now, the O'Connell _Canadian_-made blazer (apparently their stock is from mixed manufacturers), may be a different story....


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## MacT (Feb 16, 2008)

At the time I bought mine, I called Ethan & he said there were 2 choices: the Cohen / Canadian made model (same the J Press mainline that Trip got) and the Hart Schaffner & Marx US-made that I ordered. OCs does pick up stock from various sources, so, at any given time, there could be other makes -- in fact, Ethan mentioned that some years ago, they had some BB blazers in stock. If you want a specific make, just give them a call. They are unfailingly helpful.


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## Per (Oct 11, 2010)

The $395 O'connells blazer is a steal. Great fit and it's my go to blazer during summer and spring. Some pics:



















-------------------
Check out my .


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Starch said:


> - "Press" is not the same thing as "J. Press."


*cough*



Trip English said:


> As I'm exploring the various labels I notice in the left breast pocket an interesting tag...


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

^ Yep.


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## Starch (Jun 28, 2010)

Jovan said:


> *cough*


Well, "cough" back at you, along with the question: shouldn't you actually, you know, _read_ the post you're responding to?

For example:


> Trip English's blazer near the top of this very thread


(as an example of something that J. Press sells that's available elsewhere)

My observation was that:
the US-made blazer sold at O'Connell's
might not be the same thing as 
the Canadian-made blazer sold at J. Press,
despite
another poster's claim that there's a tag that says "Press" on US-made O'Connell's blazer.

While, on the other hand, to quote directly from my post:


> Now, the O'Connell Canadian-made blazer (apparently their stock is from mixed manufacturers), may be a different story....


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

I had read your post the same way as Jovan. When someone says there's a tag that says Press on it, I picture a J.Press tag like the one pictured, not a random tag that has the work "press" on it. So perhaps it wasn't what you meant, but it was easily interpreted otherwise.

I see the point you're making, though.

My sense from participating here is that there are very few actual manufacturers of a sack jacket left and it seems likely that several shops would all be drawing from the same limited group of suppliers. It's not out of the question that Press & O'C's both use the Canadian _and_ American suppliers.

Someone smartly pointed out that there is ID information on tags that allow one to trace the garment to its manufacturer so if someone was adequately curious I suppose this could be sorted out definitively. Then again, the internet is no place of sorting something out definitively.


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## Thom Browne's Schooldays (Jul 29, 2007)

The shoulders look more substantial in the pictures Per posted above.

What's the padding situation like?

I was kinda hoping it was another bit of ancient stock O'Connells had lying around, with shoulders like the old Press jackets had.


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## Starch (Jun 28, 2010)

It's more a matter of interpreting the other guy's post, which read:


> had a sticker over the paper cuff placard which I peeled off to reveal the word Press


That sounds to me like he's saying it said, well, "the word Press," which isn't "J. Press."


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

Thom Browne's Schooldays said:


> The shoulders look more substantial in the pictures Per posted above.
> 
> What's the padding situation like?
> 
> I was kinda hoping it was another bit of ancient stock O'Connells had lying around, with shoulders like the old Press jackets had.


The shoulders aren't stupendous, but none of the modern sack coats have a really soft shoulder. I'd say they have more of a sloped shoulder. This is why, after over a year of faithful service, I'm adding the Ralph Lauren 3 button navy blazer to the stable. I won't be getting rid of the O'C's model, but after experimenting for some time with the current offerings from the traditional manufacturers, I'm migrating back to Ralph as my supplier of choice. The shoulders on RL jackets are as soft as they come and the 3/2 roll on many of the models is among the best out there. You have to spend pretty crazy money on some of the Neapolitan stuff to find details as refined.


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## Per (Oct 11, 2010)

Trip English said:


> The shoulders aren't stupendous, but none of the modern sack coats have a really soft shoulder. I'd say they have more of a sloped shoulder... The shoulders on RL jackets are as soft as they come and the 3/2 roll on many of the models is among the best out there. You have to spend pretty crazy money on some of the Neapolitan stuff to find details as refined.


I have to agree with that. The sack jackets from J.Press and O'C are still constructed with some padding, even if you ask a tailor to rip it out they will still look a bit "squareish" (I think BB:s sacks has a bit better). But it's still much more natural than say a brittish sholder; look at the tweed jacket in the second picture I posted.

As Trip wrote you have to go for an Italian made jacket, preferably a unconstructed one, to find the really soft natural shoulders. Corneliani, Canali etc makes them so it's does not have to be that expensive. The drawback is that you can't get them undarted and with a sack fit. 

Here's a picture of the shoulder of one of my Corneliani jackets:

Lookwise I actually think most people look better in the J.Press, O'C jacket than a unconstructed italian jacket - since most people need some of "help" with the sholders.


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## Cardinals5 (Jun 16, 2009)

Ignore the goofy models, but check out the shoulder on the new Norman Hiltons - looks pretty dang natural to me.


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## Per (Oct 11, 2010)

True!

BB:s Golden Fleece sack is also pretty natural (see pic below). But still, it's nothing compared to a Italian unstructured shoulder.

-------------------
Check out my blog.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

You're right, Cards. The new Hiltons have interested me since they were launched. I will, at some point, try one out. It's about 4 hours round trip, so who knows when.


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## Thom Browne's Schooldays (Jul 29, 2007)

The OC blazer is nice, I guess I was hoping it was O'Connells selling some old stock Press jackets. I have a couple from 20+ years ago and the shoulder is like a sweater.


Per- Does Canali offer natural shouldered jackets?
I though they were fairly structured.


Trip- I absolutely agree on the Polo II, not just the shoulders, but the whole cut in general is fantastic.


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## Starch (Jun 28, 2010)

In the interest of making this thread as complete a cache of information as possible, I'll add a few notes on the _green_ version of the O'Connell _made in USA_ blazer. I don't know if the US-made blue blazer is the same item in a different color; it seems somewhat likely.*

- I like the color a great deal. It's pretty close to perfect from my standpoint: quite dark, and very unlikely to be mistaken for a Masters jacket. You could wear it to a Dartmouth reunion (well, maybe _you_ could ... I didn't go to Dartmouth).
- The cut and overall design are pretty much the standard for traditional, undarted sack blazers. Perhaps a tad more waist suppression than some, but still in "sack" territory.
- Standard 3/2 roll. Closure is a little on the low side.
- It's also a little long (in the regular length) for the size, I think. Not dramatically, just a bit.
- Speaking of size: marked size is pretty near exactly one size low, if not slightly more. That is: for a starting point, order one size smaller than what you usually wear.
- Armholes are noticeably low, to my perception.
- Shoulder padding is moderate; neither particularly natural-shouldered nor built-up.
- Fabric is a relatively hard-finished worsted. Pretty much normal worsted weight. A good multi-season weight for those of us in moderate climes. I wouldn't call it "tropical" or anything like that.
- On-seam center vent (_i.e._ not hook).
- Four buttons on sleeves.
- Usual complement of inside and outside pockets in the standard design. The lower ones are flapped, the breast pocket isn't, they're not patch.
- The breast pocket appears not to be a working pocket, though I'm not sure about that. It might just be temporary tacking stitches holding it closed, though they go all the way across and look to be awfully tight and sturdy. The tacking in the lower pockets was also on the tight and strong side, so maybe. I don't really care about having a working breast pocket, so I'm not going to try cutting it.
- I'm not a construction maven, but overall I think it's about what you'd expect for a $350** jacket.

For those wound up about provenance, I suppose calling O'Connell's and asking would be the best option. I did actually find the cardboard sleeve tag tucked into the pocket, where the tailor put it in the course of altering the sleeves.
- There's no "Press" or anything similar anywhere on it.
- The only thing of interest is "Conner-Regular," which means nothing to me.
- Also some numbers which are even more meaningless to me. Other than the size: "7800 030" (the same appears on O'Connell's stuck-on price tag), "CN10" and "81485 68503 8" (the last being barcoded).
- "100% Worsted Wool," which does mean something to me, but isn't exactly remarkable.
- And an odd note: I didn't find any union label, though my search wasn't exhaustive.

*A note for the sake of clarity: at the moment, O'Connell's website says their blue blazers are made in Canada _or_ the US, while the green are all made in the US. The Canadian-made ones are apparently Cohens; the top post in this thread is about the Canadian-made blue blazer. This is something similar, but slightly different.

** Now $395, apparently. A recent change


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

I very much doubt they're faux pockets. But if you don't open the breast, where will you put a pocket square?


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## saigo-kun (Jul 3, 2014)

I really appreciate the time people have put into this thread. O'Connell's has just a single image of their jackets, no measurements, etc. It's hard for me to commit to a purchase online.

I'd like to know actual measurements for a given size. There's a guy in this thread who seems antagonistic to people writing about clothes since it would all be so subjective. Inches and centimeters are pretty objective, so are photographs.


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## Tiger (Apr 11, 2010)

saigo-kun said:


> I really appreciate the time people have put into this thread. O'Connell's has just a single image of their jackets, no measurements, etc. It's hard for me to commit to a purchase online.
> 
> I'd like to know actual measurements for a given size. There's a guy in this thread who seems antagonistic to people writing about clothes since it would all be so subjective. Inches and centimeters are pretty objective, so are photographs.


If you contact O'Connell's, they will certainly be able to help you obtain the information you seek!


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## 32rollandrock (May 1, 2008)

Tiger said:


> If you contact O'Connell's, they will certainly be able to help you obtain the information you seek!


This, exactly. O'Connell's isn't like most shops. The people there actually know and love the clothing they sell, and they stand behind it. Worst-case scenario, if it doesn't fit and cannot be altered to work for you, they will take it back.


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