# BB lasts vs. Alden lasts for shell cordovan



## PittDoc (Feb 24, 2007)

With the current (25% off) sale on shell cordovans going on, I'm considering another acquisition via their website. There appears to be some variation in the lasts and construction of similar styles from BB (made by Alden) versus the original Alden models. Comments on this board suggest this translates to differences in fit and comfort.

Question - what last is used for each of the BB shell cordovan shoes? Are there any other differences? I've summarized my limited knowledge here. Please fill in the blanks!

----------------- BB vs Alden Shell Cordovan ----------------- 

BB Tassel loafer= ? last (foxing on the heel)
Alden Tassel Moccasin=Aberdeen

BB Penny unlined loafer= ? last
Alden LHS=Van (lined)

BB Blucher= ? last (looks like Barrie to me)
Alden Plain toe blucher=Barrie

BB Straight tip = ? last
Alden Straight tip blucher = Aberdeen

BB Perforated cap toe = Barrie (this is my guess, it's not Hampton)
Alden Perforated cap toe bal = Hampton

BB Wingtip bal = Plaza (metal eyelets)
Alden Wingtip bal = Tremont

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## JohnMS (Feb 18, 2004)

I just purchased some Alden plain-toe bluchers and can say the pair at Brooks fit me the same (Barrie last).


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## LeatherSOUL (May 8, 2005)

Aberdeen
Van
Barrie
Aberdeen
Hampton
Plaza

Don't quote me though.


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## well-kept (May 6, 2006)

I agree with Tom on all of the above... with the possible exception of the BB unlined LHS. I believe the last is slighly more pointed with a more asymmetric toe than the Van used for the Alden-branded version. 

And the perforated-cap bal definitely isn't on the Barrie. I have a pair and I'd swear they're Hampton-lasted.


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## LeatherSOUL (May 8, 2005)

I think it's because you lose a lot of the structure and shape of the Van when the shoe is unlined. The same can be said for Alden's unlined suede LHSs, 6243F, 6244F, etc.


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

LeatherSOUL said:


> Aberdeen
> Van
> Barrie
> Aberdeen
> ...


I agree with LS's analysis


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## Philip12 (Aug 24, 2005)

I have a pair of BB perforated cap toes in #8 shell, and I have to mention the toe is less pointy than its Alden counterpart (9015, I think). I had a pair of the Aldens, but returned them for that reason: too pointy IMHO. At the Brooks store in Madison Avenue, they told me both models are not equal. So I'm not sure the BB imodel is on the Hampton last.


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## RTW (Jan 7, 2006)

According to Alden, the BB Perforated Cap Toe is on the Snap last. 
I didn't inquire about the BB Tassel Loafer or the BB Straight-Tip Blucher but have no reason to doubt Leathersoul's assessment. 
The other BB shoes you listed are on the lasts that Leathersoul stated.


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## PittDoc (Feb 24, 2007)

Thanks everyone for the feedback. Very helpful for those of us that have to order online/phone.

I agree that the perf captoe is a different last than Alden's - I returned the BB version b/c the last was too rounded. I happen to like the look and fit of the Hampton.

Consensus so far,

Brooks Brothers, made by Alden, shell cordovan lasts:
BB Tassel loafer = Aberdeen
BB Penny unlined loafer = Van
BB Blucher = Barrie
BB Straight tip = Aberdeen
BB Perforated cap toe = Snap
BB Wingtip bal = Plaza​


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## The Deacon (Nov 25, 2006)

*Brooks Brothers LHS shell loafer that's lined?*

Was there a lined LHS Brooks Brothers Shell Cordovan loafer on the van last? I've only seen/owned the unlined Brooks Bros. shell LHS. Thanks for your help.


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## Ron_A (Jun 5, 2007)

The Deacon said:


> Was there a lined LHS Brooks Brothers Shell Cordovan loafer on the van last? I've only seen/owned the unlined Brooks Bros. shell LHS. Thanks for your help.


As far as I know, the Alden for BB LHS always have been unlined.


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## Reds & Tops (Feb 20, 2009)

This is a great thread - a good resource for people like me!

Thanks all.


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## Got Shell? (Jul 30, 2008)

The BB LHS definitely seems to come up higher on the foot to me. The overall shape is the same.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Ron_A said:


> The Deacon said:
> 
> 
> > Was there a lined LHS Brooks Brothers Shell Cordovan loafer on the van last? I've only seen/owned the unlined Brooks Bros. shell LHS. Thanks for your help.
> ...


BB sold a lined version on the Van last but it was in calfskin (black & burgundy) not shell cordovan. This was going back a few years. There's another thread in which we talk about it a bit and I posted some dates.


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## Anon 18th Cent. (Oct 27, 2008)

Reviving this thread. The PTB is on the M-58 last (information comes directly from Alden) and the wingtip is not on the Plaza, but rather another M (military) last, M-75.


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