# Gianluca Isaia?



## utkid (Apr 26, 2006)

Can someone tell me what Gianluca Isaia suits are comparable to? These seem to be one of the offerings at STP and is Neapolitan, so it piqued my interest.
Thanks!


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## bigCat (Jun 10, 2005)

They are above Corneliani, Canali, Armani (Collezioni), and below Brioni, Kiton. very good deal for suits at STP price.

-Ex falso quodlibet-


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## Siggy (Jan 14, 2006)

hreljan, you are confusing Gianluca with Gianluca Isaia Napoli. The Napoli line is pretty high-end, the Gianluca line is the diffusion line.

I'd say the Gianluca suits are pretty nice, especially the cut and fabric. I'd put them one step down from Corneliani. They don't have the handwork of the better lines and the suits are only 3/4 canvassed with machine stiching. However, they are better than most suits in the price range IMO. Also, the ones on STP are advertised as having flat front pants but the ones I got had double reverse pleats!!


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## constantmystery (Apr 18, 2006)

is STP sierra trading post?


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## Badrabbit (Nov 18, 2004)

> quote:_Originally posted by Siggy_
> 
> hreljan, you are confusing Gianluca with Gianluca Isaia Napoli. The Napoli line is pretty high-end, the Gianluca line is the diffusion line.
> 
> I'd say the Gianluca suits are pretty nice, especially the cut and fabric. I'd put them one step down from Corneliani. They don't have the handwork of the better lines and the suits are only 3/4 canvassed with machine stiching. However, they are better than most suits in the price range IMO. Also, the ones on STP are advertised as having flat front pants but the ones I got had double reverse pleats!!


The newer ones on STP are listed as Gianluca Isaia Napoli. They don't appear to be the same as the ones they have offered in the past.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Women thrive on novelty and are easy meat for the commerce of fashion. Men prefer old pipes and torn jackets. 
Anthony Burgess


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## Rollo Tomasi (Mar 19, 2006)

Gianluca Isaia are excellent suits in the Neopolitan tradition. While it does not contain the handwork of a Kiton, it is perhaps equal to or slightly above Zegna Couture. I would certainly rate them above Corneliani, Canali, and regular Zegna.


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## utkid (Apr 26, 2006)

It is always interesting to find out that a label I have never heard of happens to be of such high quality. Thanks to all.


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## Sator (Jan 13, 2006)

Isaia is the budget version of high-end Neapolitan tailoring. With them you have to make sure you know precisely which range you are dealing with. Isaia produces three separate lines, each with different degrees of hand-tailoring. The Enrico Isaia line is almost entirely handmade, while the Isaia and Gianluca Isaia lines are machine-made but hand-finished. The 'Gianluca' line is more of a diffusion line and should probably be avoided.

SATOR
AREPO
TENET
OPERA
ROTAS


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## tmack3 (Jan 14, 2006)

slightly off topic, but i have a beautiful 7 fold isaia tie. they have fantastic looking neckwear. i also think the shirts look very nice, but they are expensive and don't fit me right


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## Daywalker (Aug 21, 2005)

> quote:_Originally posted by utkid_
> 
> Can someone tell me what Gianluca Isaia suits are comparable to? These seem to be one of the offerings at STP and is Neapolitan, so it piqued my interest.
> Thanks!


Comparisons and opinions on this board are all over the place. Isaia Napoli are outstanding suits and you really have to go an order of magnitude higher (and more expensive) to do better. Buy it, you'll like it.


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## Daywalker (Aug 21, 2005)

> quote:_Originally posted by Siggy_
> 
> hreljan, you are confusing Gianluca with Gianluca Isaia Napoli. The Napoli line is pretty high-end, the Gianluca line is the diffusion line.
> 
> I'd say the Gianluca suits are pretty nice, especially the cut and fabric. I'd put them one step down from Corneliani. They don't have the handwork of the better lines and the suits are only 3/4 canvassed with machine stiching. However, they are better than most suits in the price range IMO. Also, the ones on STP are advertised as having flat front pants but the ones I got had double reverse pleats!!


I agree. For the money, the Gian Luca suits are pretty darn nice and the fabrics are usually outstanding.


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## bigCat (Jun 10, 2005)

I was under impression that Gianluca Napoli (no mention of Isaia in the name) is the diffusion line, and that Gainluca Isaia Napoli (which I assumed the question was about) is the higher end line.



> quote:_Originally posted by Siggy_
> 
> hreljan, you are confusing Gianluca with Gianluca Isaia Napoli. The Napoli line is pretty high-end, the Gianluca line is the diffusion line.
> 
> I'd say the Gianluca suits are pretty nice, especially the cut and fabric. I'd put them one step down from Corneliani. They don't have the handwork of the better lines and the suits are only 3/4 canvassed with machine stiching. However, they are better than most suits in the price range IMO. Also, the ones on STP are advertised as having flat front pants but the ones I got had double reverse pleats!!


-Ex falso quodlibet-


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## smr (Apr 24, 2005)

I agree with hreljan. Gianluca Napoli is the diffusion line: 1/2 or 3/4 canvassed, and very little hand tailoring. Never pay more than $400 or so (at a discount store/site, anyway) for these. Here's a link to the GN line: .

If you see the name Isaia mentioned specifically, it has lots of hand tailoring, and fits exactly where hreljan put it in his suit hierarchy summary (based on the amount of hand tailoring). To make the price from STP really great, don't forget to check for coupons for STP before ordering. The 15% one in "steals and deals" should still be working, and there may be a 20% one out there.


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## amerikajinda (Nov 11, 2005)

From my experience, they have very high armholes. You really have to have the right body to wear Isaia. Would anybody agree with this assessment?


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## bigCat (Jun 10, 2005)

High armholes on RTW can present a fit problem. That's why you see this feature mainly on bespoke, Even soem MTM programs do not do high armholes (as a cost saving).

-Ex falso quodlibet-


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## charle22 (Feb 20, 2004)

> quote:_Originally posted by Rollo Tomasi_
> 
> Gianluca Isaia are excellent suits in the Neopolitan tradition. While it does not contain the handwork of a Kiton, it is perhaps equal to or slightly above Zegna Couture. I would certainly rate them above Corneliani, Canali, and regular Zegna.


Wow! Above Zegna Couture? That's a pretty interesting statement. What criteria is used for such comparisons?

Also does anyone know why Isaia Napoli's popularity in the global market exceed others i.e., Antoni Panico & Sartoria Sabino ?

Is it because of a better product or otherwise?


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## KenCPollock (Dec 20, 2003)

For thirty years I was a lover of Norman Hilton suits and probably bought 200 of them. IMO it was the best USA suit, with a cut far superior to anything from Hickey Freeman or Oxxford. 
It has been a struggle for the last 10 years, since Hilton closed. My solutions: Samuelsohn (not quite as good), Isaia (maybe a little better, but costly), and Kiton (even better, but out-of sight). I think Attolini is maybe even better than Kiton, but is well beyond my means. I do not personally care for Brioni (like Oxxford, great tailoring, but problems with the cut and fit).
STP's Isaia's are a bargain.
I should mention that I am rather trad and the shoulders on most Corneliani, Canali, Zegna, Oxxford, Brioni and Hickey Freeman are not my cup of tea.


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## GT3 (Mar 29, 2006)

> quote:I think Attolini is maybe even better than Kiton


I agree with you there... IIRC Ciro Paone worked with Attolini before venturing off on his own.

Honesty pays, but it doesn't seem to pay enough to suit some people. - F. M. Hubbard


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## CharlieChannel (Mar 16, 2006)

I like Gianluca Isaia a lot. Very well made, yes
below Brioni and Kiton, above all others, similar
to Battistoni and Belvest. A slimmer-guy's cut
but I wear their 60long no problem.
Their shirts also good but Battistoni's better.
Buy em all at STP, OR at Barney's either on
sale or at the N.Y. W. 17th Street Warehouse
Sale (August is not that far away).

Charlie Channel-hunter


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## Siggy (Jan 14, 2006)

You guys are all over the place in ranking the Isaia suits. The "Gianluca Napoli" (same as "Gianluca") is the diffusion line. "Gianluca Isaia Napoli" is the regular line, which I'd put on par or higher than E. Zegna, Corneliani, Canali etc. "Enrico Isaia Napoli" is the highest line and not often seen. The "Gianluca Napoli" suits on STP are IMO a step down from Corneliani but still very nice.


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## iammatt (Sep 17, 2005)

> quote:_Originally posted by GT3_
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Other way around. Attolini worked for Kiton.

IMO, quality is pretty much the same. Cuts are a little different. Kiton is a bit softer and Attolini is a bit shapelier. Kitons fabrics are a cut above.


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## Badrabbit (Nov 18, 2004)

> quote:_Originally posted by Siggy_
> 
> You guys are all over the place in ranking the Isaia suits. The "Gianluca Napoli" (same as "Gianluca") is the diffusion line. "Gianluca Isaia Napoli" is the regular line, which I'd put on par or higher than E. Zegna, Corneliani, Canali etc. "Enrico Isaia Napoli" is the highest line and not often seen. The "Gianluca Napoli" suits on STP are IMO a step down from Corneliani but still very nice.


Are we looking at the same suits? Because, unless I have forgotten how to read, the suits on STP say "Gianluca Isaia Napoli" and not "Gianluca Napoli."

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Women thrive on novelty and are easy meat for the commerce of fashion. Men prefer old pipes and torn jackets. 
Anthony Burgess


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## GT3 (Mar 29, 2006)

> quote:_Originally posted by iammatt_
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I just looked at the website for Attolini ( ) and checked the "about us" link and it says that the whole thing started in 1930 and was passed from father to son to son...

This info was backed up when I was in Boston. I met an older gentleman from Napoli (italian restaurant), and we talked about the clothing tradtions. He too said that the Attolinis are famous and have been at it for a long time.

I know that there was an article somewhere that stated Cesare left Kiton on the advice of his family, I don't remember what context that was in.

Honesty pays, but it doesn't seem to pay enough to suit some people. - F. M. Hubbard


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## comrade (May 26, 2005)

I just received the Gianlucca Napoli Blue Basketweave
sportcoat from STP. I already own a Gianlucca Isaia Napoli
wool and cashmere coat. Unfortunately, it doesn't have
natural shoulders as does my Isaia. My tailor said that 
he can alter the new coat so that the shoulders are identical
to the Isaia. Actually, the pad on the new coat is at the sleeve-
head creating a "roped" effect. The pad does not cover
the entire shoulder. My tailor is excellent and does work
for the Wilkes Bashford branch in Palo Alto, CA. Any 
comments on the feasibility of this alteration?


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## Teacher (Mar 14, 2005)

If you like the fabric, why not?


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## rnoldh (Apr 22, 2006)

I'm completely confused by the slight differences in name. Is the suit in the following link one of the better Isaia's or part of the diffusion line. $400 seems a very fair price.


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## Rollo Tomasi (Mar 19, 2006)

The pictures are too blurry and the tag seems suspect. Check out this auction for an authentic Isaia suit:



While there is less handwork than a Kiton and the fabrics are perhaps a notch down, the cut of the suit is unmistakingly Neapolitan, with softer, shoulders and very nice lines. If you can't afford a Kiton, then an Isaia is a very good compromise.

Try one at a Neiman Marcus or Saks and see for yourself.


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## Rollo Tomasi (Mar 19, 2006)

I own Zegna Couture and have tried on some Isaia's at the Neiman's in Beverly Hills. The pricepoints are about the same (between $2600 to $3500). I personally like the fit of the Isaia slightly better, but I haven't found an Isaia pattern yet to my liking. The selection that BH Neiman's had were a little more on the bold side.


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## Rollo Tomasi (Mar 19, 2006)

> quote:_Originally posted by Rollo Tomasi_
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Siggy (Jan 14, 2006)

Both "Gianluca Napoli" (diffusion line) and "Gianluca Isaia Napoli" (regular line) are currently for sale on STP.


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## RSS (Dec 30, 2003)

I just connected the STP reference: Sierra Trading Post. Thanks constantmystery.

And, Siggy is correct ... both are (or have been) on STP recently.

Now forgetting Gian Luca Napoli (which I never thought of as having a connection to Isaia ... but perhaps does ... as the content label inside the breast pocket is similar -- perhaps identical -- to those of Isaia) ... when it comes to true Isaia tailored clothing I have seen ...

*Gianluca Isaia* (Napoli) which has a black and grey label ... *Isaia * which has a green label ... 
*Enrico Isaia* â€¦ can't remember the color of label.

The above are listed with an ascending order of quality as far as I see the work of Isaia. All are quality ... with Enrico Isaia being of outstanding quality."I used to think myself Dorian Gray ... but lately, Dorian Graying seems more fitting." -- Scott


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## Rollo Tomasi (Mar 19, 2006)

Scott said:


> I just connected the STP reference: Sierra Trading Post. Thanks constantmystery.
> 
> And, Siggy is correct ... both are (or have been) on STP recently.
> 
> ...


The Isaia I recall trying on at Neiman's BH that retailed for around $2600 had a black lettering on a red background.


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## pkincy (Feb 9, 2006)

Maybe another person saying the same thing will help.

Gianluca Napoli: Fused; available at Nordstrom's often at $900 price point and always available at Nordstrom's Rack for $400. Also Avail on Ebay by seller Nitro for 399-419. Pretty ordinary suit.

Gianluca Isaia Napoli: Canvassed, very nice fabrics; Some Nieman's (Las Vegas) order wild fabrics and have both Isaia and Gianluca Isaia Napoli; some order stock and standard fabrics (Scottsdale); price point at retail is $2000-2400. Very very nice suit with a definite slim fit, high button stance; high thin lapels. Avail at Nieman's last call but always in the throw away (to me) club fabrics. I do lust after some of the stock fabrics at NM Scottsdale but was in LV last Tuesday so bought from the sale up there. NM Scottsdale has a 3 button navy blue, a summer tan, a summer off white, etc that I could definitely wear. NM LV had wild stripes and plaids on sale, so I bought Zegna this past weeks sale.

Isaia: Also available at NM. $3000 or so, beautiful fabrics and cut. I probably will do my first GN Isaia at the next 30% off sale at my local NM.

Perry


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## Fray (Sep 4, 2005)

Isaia suits aren't truly Neapolitan style. Gianluca Isaia, grandson of the founder, has "modernized" or more precisely put - "Americanized" Isaia's products. I've tried many many of Isaia suits over the years and they were all terrible in terms of their cuts. 
I'm extremely particular and I only like the true Neapolitan style of clothing. Below are my two cents worth and I won't comment on brands that I have never had any experience with.
Attolini - the absolute best (USD4400 and up).
Borrelli - the best value (buying Borrelli suits is like buying Lexus in the early 90s) (USD2500 and up)
Brioni - terrible, the most overrated brand of all 
Kiton - overpriced and not as nicely cut as Attolini and Borrelli
Gianni Campagna - not Neapolitan style
Zegna Couture - terrible and overpriced (Cdn$4000 and up)
Boglioli - forget about handwork and over-the-top type of fabrics but what a bargain, copycat of Neapolitan style of suit making (USD1000 and up)
Isaia - "Amerianized" not true "Neapolitan", save the money and go for Boglioli
RL Purple Label - overpriced, own many suits from its first 2 seasons (made by Chester Barrie) for the "Savile Row" look, stop buying them ever since St. Andrews makes suits for the line.
Canali - it shouldn't even be mentioned here. I saw the top-of-the-line Canali the other day and a suit sells for Cdn$4500. I was told that it's the same construction as other lower priced Canali but made with much more expensive fabrics. It's the same as putting diamonds on a Timex.


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## mastermind (May 12, 2006)

*Kiton*

You Guys are all over the place. I personally know Ciro Paone the owner and founder of Kiton. Attolini and Kiton are both high quality in the sense that it takes a long time to make but badly made. As my dear friend Giuseppe (probably the best custom tailor I have ever seen) once said to Mr. Paone "why do you make those button holes by hand when they are so ugly you would be better off making them by machine" to which he replied because people buy them...


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## ragdoll (Feb 9, 2006)

Mastermind, that is an interesting perspective. Certainly not my experience or what I have heard on these fora before. What Neopolitan house would you or Guiseppe recommend?


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## pkincy (Feb 9, 2006)

I picked up a Gianluca Isaia suit at the NM sale (doesn't officially get rung up til the 1st but the merchandise is out.)

I also picked up a mid weight (winter use for me) grey brown subtle glen plaid from STP. It is in and being altered.

Both with real working buttonholes as the sleeves are prepped for them.

I also just ordered a bamboo sport coat by GianLuca Isaia from STP that will be in next week.

Beautiful fabric and drape but delicate. They have many of the bamboo SCs at the NM sale marked down from 2095 to 1495. Than you go to STP where they are 899 or 799 and available with Andy's coupon through this weekend for $819 or $720 plus modest shipping. Also beware the Bamboo run quite long and the excellent drape makes them hang even longer.

Perry


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## Mute (Apr 3, 2005)

While Zegna Couture could be called overpriced I would hardly characterize them as horrible. The few I've seen had very good construction, and nice silhouettes. Nothing I would denigrate.


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## GT3 (Mar 29, 2006)

mastermind said:


> You Guys are all over the place. I personally know Ciro Paone the owner and founder of Kiton. Attolini and Kiton are both high quality in the sense that it takes a long time to make but badly made. As my dear friend Giuseppe (probably the best custom tailor I have ever seen) once said to Mr. Paone "why do you make those button holes by hand when they are so ugly you would be better off making them by machine" to which he replied because people buy them...


I have come across these ideas also. I have a Kiton suit and love the material but the construction is not what people think (at least for my suit). The Bemberg lining is coming apart at the bottom of the jacket, the stitching is not very strong. The marketing campain that is Kiton is making a killing. Before anyone blasts me I know some others who swore never to buy Kiton again after experiencing some shoddy constructions. I also have a Kiton shirt that is falling to pieces. AK has taken a Kiton shirt apart and was not impressed. In my novice opinion, Castangia is the best RTW suit from Italy, Sardinia no less.


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## mastermind (May 12, 2006)

I would not recomend a neopolitan suit at all under any shape or form. The only decent suit that came out of Naples was Abla that no longer exists. Although it is not what it used to be I still recomend Brioni or d'Avenza for quality and Belvest for an excellent value for money and they have beautiful cloths in their collection. You are not wrong about the shirt GT3 Kiton shirts are terrible. Castangia not bad at all but I don't know where you would find it. Another good ready to wear is Ravazzolo but don't be fooled that it is a Brioni


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