# Vintage and Unusual Alden Models



## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

I've recently seen a couple of eBay auctions featuring vintage Alden models, and it got me thinking about models that you never see anymore but maybe should. Here are five that came to mind. (Except where noted, all of the pictures were cribbed from Centipede's website.)

1. Alden 928 -- This is a wingtip balmoral, in the British sense of the word balmoral. That is, the seam at the bottom of the throat continues to the heel of the shoe instead of curving down to the sole. Aesthetically, I like that seam parallel to the ground; and I also like the fact that balmoral models are unusual but not unusual enough to call undue attention to themselves.

https://img73.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden928wingtipbalcx3.jpg

There's currently an for a used 927 (same model in burgundy calf) in size 9D. I think the model would be fantastic in black or #8 shell cordovan (or whiskey shell, but that's probably a complete pipe dream), and it would be truly unique in snuff suede.

2. Alden 465 -- This model is Alden's rendition of the famous JM Weston Chasse: a split-toe blucher with one-piece side/quarter panels and a blind toe seam; and I'd almost be willing to give up a kidney to get a pair. I believe that Tom Park has said that Alden won't make this model except for the Japanese market, and that's a real shame. It would be fantastic in #8, cigar, or whiskey shell cordovan or in snuff suede or walnut calfskin.

https://img92.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden465chassekp8.jpg

3. Alden 469 -- I'm a bit conflicted by this model. I like the square-toe last that this shoe is made on -- it doesn't look like the Plaza, and I'm not sure what the last is -- I like the large brogueing, and I like that cap-toe blucher pattern without an external heel counter for two-tone shoes. On the other hand, I don't much care for those eyelets, and I wouldn't choose those two colors for a two-tone shoe. I do think that it would make a good two-tone model in two other leather colors or a very good one-tone shoe in just about any leather.

https://img301.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden469blucherbo2.jpg

There's currently an for a NOS pair of these in 7D.

4. Alden 9927 -- This is a variation of the moc-toe saddle blucher model that both Tom Park at and Adam Knott at Alden of Carmel have used before. It has the same saddle, but lacks the twin-needle stitching to make the moc toe. Adam and Tom both did their moc-toe versions with a contrasting saddle, but I think that I like the simplicity of the plain toe and the a single color shell cordovan.

https://img371.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden9927saddlebluchergk7.jpg

5. Alden 8113 -- These are AlanC's famous U-throat spectators. The fact that it's a U throat is unusual enough, but this model is unusual even for U-throats. The sides of the U are straight, rather than inwardly-bowed as is most common on U-throat shoes. Furthermore, it looks like the piece of leather forming the throat is laid on top of the vamp/quarter suede, while most U-throats have it the other way around. This is an unusual but still understated shoe design, and it would work in either a one-tone or two-tone configuration. The picture is cribbed from AlanC.

https://img244.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden8113uthroatspectatcb5.jpg

Anybody else have any vintage or unusual Alden models that they'd like to see more of?


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Good idea for a thread! I will dig deep into my files and see what I have.

But first off, the spectator loafers below are labelled POLO but are obviously re-badged Cape Cod shoes by Alden; however, they don't match any of the current models offered so they must have been special makeups.

https://img520.imageshack.us/my.php?image=polo1aae9.jpghttps://img514.imageshack.us/my.php?image=polo1cbw5.jpg


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

Nice list. Tell Tom to get on it.

There has been discussed on the Trad forum a LHS loafer with a full strap, which apparently is also reserved for the Japanese market. Maybe someone can dig up a picture.

The Alden 469 is similar in look to this vintage pair of British Walkers I just picked up.










https://img209.imageshack.us/img209/8145/p1013023ra2.jpg
https://img65.imageshack.us/img65/1395/p1013025jq5.jpg
https://img76.imageshack.us/img76/503/p1013026ye1.jpg


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## red96 (Jun 26, 2007)

Anyone have a guess at what last the Alden 928s are made on? I saw that Ebay auction, and a 9D fits me on some lasts...they sure look nice.


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## LeatherSOUL (May 8, 2005)

A friend/customer of mine actually owns that 465...great shoe but Alden won't make it for Japan or the US. 

I have a couple unusual Aldens that I can take pictures of on Monday. 

I think it's time for a AAAC Special Edition Alden!


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

LeatherSOUL said:


> A friend/customer of mine actually owns that 465...great shoe but Alden won't make it for Japan or the US.


Then who do they make it for?


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## Buffalo (Nov 19, 2003)

LeatherOUL: "I think it's time for a AAAC Special Edition Alden"



What do you have in mind?


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## LeatherSOUL (May 8, 2005)

AlanC said:


> Then who do they make it for?


I wanna say it was an old sample...I gotta double check. I know I inquired with Alden a couple years ago about it and they told me why. I actually saw that shoe, he brought it to a night out in Tokyo to show me.


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## LeatherSOUL (May 8, 2005)

Buffalo said:


> LeatherSOUL: "I think it's time for a AAAC Special Edition Alden"
> 
> What do you have in mind?


More like what do the members have in mind? We just did a Style Forum boot that a few members collabortated on. If we can come up with a design and a few people committed, I'd be more than happy to have it made.


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## jmonroestyle (Nov 6, 2006)

LeatherSOUL said:


> More like what do the members have in mind? We just did a Style Forum boot that a few members collabortated on. If we can come up with a design and a few people committed, I'd be more than happy to have it made.


Well as long as you are asking for requests, here is mine.

Plaza last, blucher, 5 eyelets, plain toe with a punched medallion, dark brown calf, done either in lady calf/flex welt construction, or aniline calf, and a regular single Alden outer sole. This would be sort of a shoe version of the Style Forum boot, but done in brown calf.

I have been looking for a plain toe lace-up shoe with a toe medallion. So far the only ones I have found that might fit are the C& J Weymouth, and the Loake Norwich.

Since I know I can wear the Plaza last, the shoe I described would be just perfect, and I don't know of any blucher style shoe like this by Alden or a British vendor.


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## LaoHu (Sep 16, 2006)

*Torturer!!!*

Yes, that's what I said, pure torture! The 8113 spectators, chestnut calf and white buckskin, have been the object of my desire for a couple of years now. They're built on the Hampton last which fits me very well in 10½E, but I have only been able to find in 10½D stocked in various shoestores in southern climes. The factory just won't make up a pair even though I ordered through a dealer with an outrageous upcharge and waited nearly a year.

Pure, bloody torture!


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## tmack3 (Jan 14, 2006)

Maybe it's the angle of the picture, but that 928 looks very sleek for an Alden.

As for any new boot from LeatherSoul, I recommend anything on the Plaza last.


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## red96 (Jun 26, 2007)

jmonroestyle said:


> Well as long as you are asking for requests, here is mine.
> 
> Plaza last, blucher, 5 eyelets, plain toe with a punched medallion, dark brown calf, done either in lady calf/flex welt construction, or aniline calf, and a regular single Alden outer sole. This would be sort of a shoe version of the Style Forum boot, but done in brown calf.
> 
> ...


+1 on this. I like the idea of a medallion toe in brown on the Plaza last. Although I personally would pref a balmoral...


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## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

red96 said:


> Anyone have a guess at what last the Alden 928s are made on? I saw that Ebay auction, and a 9D fits me on some lasts...they sure look nice.


I've been trying to figure that out. It's a bulbous, round-toed last, which makes me think of Barrie; but I'm not sure.


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## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

LeatherSOUL said:


> More like what do the members have in mind? We just did a Style Forum boot that a few members collabortated on. If we can come up with a design and a few people committed, I'd be more than happy to have it made.


Well, what I really, really want is something like the 465 above; but if Alden absolutely, positively refuses to make it...

Pending pictures that Tom or Doc Damage or anyone else has of something more interesting, I would vote for a wingtip either similar to 928 or to 8113 but in a single leather on Aberdeen. Shell cordovan is probably more commercially viable, and I would buy it in shell; however, snuff suede would be more delicious.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Thank you for offering a look at these very interesting and attractive shoes. Alden certainly can make things that are both unusual and beautiful. I greedily anticipate the photos Tom Park adds as new models are introduced. Two that my eye often returns to are the recent Style Forum boots and the Flex welt Norwegian toe bluchers in snuff suede. Unfortunately, I can't indulge.


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## jmonroestyle (Nov 6, 2006)

red96 said:


> +1 on this. I like the idea of a medallion toe in brown on the Plaza last. Although I personally would pref a balmoral...


I like balmoral shoes. However, I can't wear Alden's balmoral shoes for certain reasons, so my balmorals are made by British vendors. This is why I opted for a blucher for my design suggestion.

Since bluchers are generally an easier fit, more people may be able to be part of this AAAC/Leathersoul project.

Jess


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

T94, possibly the normal flex-welt penny but with a Weston-style flat strap.

https://img140.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden104astylet94bj3.jpghttps://img520.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden104bri7.jpghttps://img520.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden104ctw2.jpg

H473, some sort of beefroll Cape Cod model.

https://img520.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden103astyleh473bc1.jpghttps://img520.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden103bef7.jpghttps://img140.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden103chh0.jpg

3610(?), I'm probably the only person here who thinks this shoe is a good idea.

https://img140.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden102style3610be9.jpg

Unknown style#, looks like the Lobb "Chester"(!).

https://img520.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden100cas4.jpghttps://img516.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden100aik4.jpg

Unknown style#, but if you look closely you can see the right-hand sock liner has O'Connell Lucas Chelf printed on it.

https://img520.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden105alg5.jpghttps://img140.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden105beq2.jpghttps://img520.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden105cjb9.jpg


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## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

Doctor Damage said:


> Unknown style#, looks like the Lobb "Chester"(!).
> 
> https://img520.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden100cas4.jpghttps://img516.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden100aik4.jpg


Love these. I'm not sure about the black suede, but they'd be great in either dark brown or snuff suede or dark brown calf. I don't really see them in shell cordovan, but that's okay.



> Unknown style#, but if you look closely you can see the right-hand sock liner has O'Connell Lucas Chelf printed on it.
> 
> https://img520.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden105alg5.jpghttps://img140.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden105beq2.jpghttps://img520.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden105cjb9.jpg


Nice to know that Alden has this model. I'd buy 'em in black calf instead of black patent, but I doubt that there's enough of a market to do a size run in them.


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## LeatherSOUL (May 8, 2005)

Doctor Damage said:


> T94, possibly the normal flex-welt penny but with a Weston-style flat strap.
> 
> Unknown style#, looks like the Lobb "Chester"(!).


"T"94 is actually a number they use for idividual sample shoes.

Ahh yes, the Venetian handsewn loafer. They did that in shell in Japan...something I always thought about doing. Nice shoe.


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## gracian (Jan 7, 2006)

+1 on the Venetian handsewn. I'm think it would look nice in Cigar or black cordovan. Cigar's probably out of the question though given the scarcity.


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## well-kept (May 6, 2006)

jcusey said:


> I've been trying to figure that out. It's a bulbous, round-toed last, which makes me think of Barrie; but I'm not sure.


They're Aberdeen. I queried Alden on this because I have a pair of 927 - burgundy calf. The Aberdeen is not Alden's best fit for many people but indeed, they're a nice style. Alden also told me they went out of production a decade ago.


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## arnaud (Apr 10, 2007)

LeatherSOUL said:


> I think it's time for a AAAC Special Edition Alden!


Damn right: a split toe along the lines of the 465 but on the Plaza Last would be spank-my-mama-good.


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## qwerty (Jun 24, 2005)

Doctor Damage said:


> Good idea for a thread! I will dig deep into my files and see what I have.
> 
> But first off, the spectator loafers below are labelled POLO but are obviously re-badged Cape Cod shoes by Alden; however, they don't match any of the current models offered so they must have been special makeups.
> 
> https://img520.imageshack.us/my.php?image=polo1aae9.jpghttps://img514.imageshack.us/my.php?image=polo1cbw5.jpg


If these are Alden Cape Cod, then so are the shell cordovan Weejuns which Paul Stuart is offering...they are made in USA and have EXACTLY this sole.


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## qwerty (Jun 24, 2005)

jcusey said:


> I've recently seen a couple of eBay auctions featuring vintage Alden models, and it got me thinking about models that you never see anymore but maybe should. Here are five that came to mind. (Except where noted, all of the pictures were cribbed from Centipede's website.)
> 
> 1. Alden 928 -- This is a wingtip balmoral, in the British sense of the word balmoral. That is, the seam at the bottom of the throat continues to the heel of the shoe instead of curving down to the sole. Aesthetically, I like that seam parallel to the ground; and I also like the fact that balmoral models are unusual but not unusual enough to call undue attention to themselves.
> 
> ...


I would pay $450-$600 for either of these, even in calf or suede. I would kill for the 465s in dark brown calf. The others noted in this thread are not so marvelous, to my eye.


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## LeatherSOUL (May 8, 2005)

qwerty said:


> If these are Alden Cape Cod, then so are the shell cordovan Weejuns which Paul Stuart is offering...they are made in USA and have EXACTLY this sole.


Those aren't necessarily Alden Cape Cod for Polo...they just could made by the same factory that makes Alden Cape Cod shoes, just as the PS offerings.


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## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

well-kept said:


> They're Aberdeen. I queried Alden on this because I have a pair of 927 - burgundy calf. The Aberdeen is not Alden's best fit for many people but indeed, they're a nice style. Alden also told me they went out of production a decade ago.


Aberdeen? Really? Well, I was completely fooled, and Aberdeen is just about my favorite Alden last. It fits me better than Hampton, and the look is fairly similar.


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## well-kept (May 6, 2006)

jcusey said:


> Aberdeen? Really? Well, I was completely fooled, and Aberdeen is just about my favorite Alden last. It fits me better than Hampton, and the look is fairly similar.


Yup. Really. Wide in the heel, narrow in the toe.

By the way, my pair are quite old, the 4-A Alden logo, found nearly unworn on eBay. And, to address another question, they appear to be better-made than current production from several points of evidence. Stitches per inch, evident quality of calfskin. Truth to tell, when I place these Aldens from about 30 years ago beside current Edward Greens they seem comparable on several fronts.


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## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

well-kept said:


> Yup. Really. Wide in the heel, narrow in the toe.


You know, I was talking about this with a shoe dealer just the other day. I have had a problem with wide heels with every Alden last that I've worn (Aberdeen, Hampton, Plaza, and Barrie), and that is surprising to me. I don't have especially narrow heels (at least, for an American), and I would have expected Alden lasts to be optimized for American feet. Strange.



> By the way, my pair are quite old, the 4-A Alden logo, found nearly unworn on eBay. And, to address another question, they appear to be better-made than current production from several points of evidence. Stitches per inch, evident quality of calfskin. Truth to tell, when I place these Aldens from about 30 years ago beside current Edward Greens they seem comparable on several fronts.


I'd be willing to bet that the same thing can be said about most of the big-name factory-made shoes. Those who have been to the shoemaking museum in Northampton almost invariably comment on a pair of Crockett & Jones shoes from the '20s (I think) that would put any RTW shoe made today to shame.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

"You know, I was talking about this with a shoe dealer just the other day. I have had a problem with wide heels with every Alden last that I've worn (Aberdeen, Hampton, Plaza, and Barrie), and that is surprising to me. I don't have especially narrow heels (at least, for an American), and I would have expected Alden lasts to be optimized for American feet. Strange."

Sorry if this is perhaps a bit off topic, but this gives me pause regarding my intention to to obtain a pair of their casual shoes on the Leydon last. Their brochures advertise compound lasts, so I assumed this would not be an issue, as I too have a significantly narrower heel compared to the width over the ball. This was a major complaint I had with AE lasts. 

This is even more surprising because traditional American shoe manufacturers were producing shoes with compound lasts for the lower end market when they still served it. I have at least two pair of slip-ons, even including one from Dexter, with elegant lasts with narrow waists and heels. And a pair of tan suede bluchers with a similar last.


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## well-kept (May 6, 2006)

Alden's split lasts will still leave your heels flapping in the breeze, if your feet are like those of many. JCUSEY is right - it's odd how commited Alden seems to be to the idea of a foot shape that basically doesn't exist. 

If I could custom order, say, a pair of LHS, I'd ask for size 11 aaa/d, Van last. The Alden oxfords I have that fit best are Plaza last, going down a width to a/c, holding the heel and with a bit of wear, accommodating the forefoot. The Aberdeen looks nice but it's just a bit off.


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## LeatherSOUL (May 8, 2005)

Split Toe w/Ripple Sole

















White Grain Monk









The Famous 469









Corrected Grain Penny Loafers...nice last, perfect stitching and welting all around, very well made









Tassels w/Heels for the Ladies









One thing I really notice with all the vintage Aldens I've seen is the almost perfect stitching and welting.

Alden once toyed with coming out with a CH Alden line...their version of a Top Drawer shoe. It would have retailed for about $700-800 in calf and would have been worth every penny. I've seen samples at the factory and they were perfect.


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

Those ripple soles are just wrong. 

Too bad they didn't do the CH line. I've suggested in the past that AE should do such a line, which they sort of are. Still, the special make Aldens that you and other stores do are a good substitute for a premier line it seems to me.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

LeatherSOUL said:


> Split Toe w/Ripple Sole
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for sharing these great photos of vintage Aldens! They're very enjoyable.

It appears in photos on your website that some of your Alden specials don't appear to have particularly wide heel to forefoot ratios. An example of this might be your recent LS/SF boot in shell. Do you have an oppinon regarding the width of the heels on Alden lasts that might be appropriate to offer?


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## LeatherSOUL (May 8, 2005)

Flanderian said:


> Thanks for sharing these great photos of vintage Aldens! They're very enjoyable.
> 
> It appears in photos on your website that some of your Alden specials don't appear to have particularly wide heel to forefoot ratios. An example of this might be your recent LS/SF boot in shell. Do you have an oppinon regarding the width of the heels on Alden lasts that might be appropriate to offer?


Nothing different to any other Alden as far as width to heel ratios. Sorry.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

LeatherSOUL said:


> Nothing different to any other Alden as far as width to heel ratios. Sorry.


I appreciate the response, thanks for clarifying my supposition. Still beautiful! :icon_smile:


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## XdryMartini (Jan 5, 2008)

How about these ideas?

Idea 1
-5 or 6 eyelet blucher
-perf cap toe
-brown calf
-single sole
-closed heel, looks more sleek
-any last BUT the Barrie, Aberdeen or Plaza. So Tremont or Leydon possibly 
-Alden version of the EG Cardiff or Elmsley

Idea 2
-5 eyelet Bal
-Alden 928 captoe variant / version of the G&G Warwick

Idea 3
OR an Alden chukka or boot similar to what was popular in the 60's, like the G&G Arran in black calf?


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## Literide (Nov 11, 2004)

LeatherSOUL said:


> Those aren't necessarily Alden Cape Cod for Polo...they just could made by the same factory that makes Alden Cape Cod shoes, just as the PS offerings.


I think Alden now owns that factory. The former Cole-Haan plant


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## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

LeatherSOUL said:


> Split Toe w/Ripple Sole


Like the pattern, hate the sole.



> White Grain Monk


That's a different pattern from the standard Alden monkstrap, and I like it better -- the standard Alden monk pattern has a strap that's too skinny for my tastes.



> Alden once toyed with coming out with a CH Alden line...their version of a Top Drawer shoe. It would have retailed for about $700-800 in calf and would have been worth every penny. I've seen samples at the factory and they were perfect.


How long ago was this? I would think that this would have played well in Japan and that that which plays well in Japan is a success regardless of how well it plays in the rest of the world.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Literide said:


> I think Alden now owns that factory. The former Cole-Haan plant


Thanks for that. That information helped me better understand what's happened.


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## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

XdryMartini said:


> How about these ideas?
> 
> Idea 1
> -5 or 6 eyelet blucher
> ...


For reference, here's the EG Cardiff:

And the EG Elmsley:

It sounds like what you want is the 479, only with a single leather and without those huge eyelets. It would be a good shoe. Why Tremont or Leydon? Neither one is really a sleek last.



> Idea 2
> -5 eyelet Bal
> -Alden 928 captoe variant / version of the G&G Warwick


Another good idea, although it might not be possible if Alden doesn't already have the pattern in their archives.



> Idea 3
> OR an Alden chukka or boot similar to what was popular in the 60's, like the G&G Arran in black calf?


One of my biggest complaints about the Alden chukka is that it's too low. It hits right on the bump of my ankle and is consequently a bit uncomfortable. I'd love to see a version that is higher, but I don't know if Alden has the pattern.


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## LeatherSOUL (May 8, 2005)

Literide said:


> I think Alden now owns that factory. The former Cole-Haan plant


1/2 of it I believe.


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## LeatherSOUL (May 8, 2005)

jcusey said:


> How long ago was this? I would think that this would have played well in Japan and that that which plays well in Japan is a success regardless of how well it plays in the rest of the world.


Definitely. This was a few years back.  I could sell the heck out of that line.


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## LeatherSOUL (May 8, 2005)

Leydon last:


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## XdryMartini (Jan 5, 2008)

Q: Why Leydon or Tremont?

A; I like captoes w/ a traditional round last, as posted in the pictures above. I wouldn't want anything like an EG 888 or G&G TG73 for this. Just a preference for this particular project, not a condemnation of other lasts.


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

LS-
Thank you for posting pictures


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## LD111134 (Dec 21, 2007)

I don't know what they're called, but I have a pair of mid-1990s vintage Alden wintip kiltie slip-ons in black (an old friend called them a "double-whammy"; add tassels in addition to the wingtip brogue and the kilties and you have a "triple-whammy"). Women love these bad-boys for some reason.


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## well-kept (May 6, 2006)

LD111134 said:


> Women love these bad-boys for some reason.


Because they look like something a woman would wear.


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## rider (Jan 8, 2004)

Literide said:


> I think Alden now owns that factory. The former Cole-Haan plant


No they don't.....no it wasn't.

Close, but wrong principals on both counts.


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## Literide (Nov 11, 2004)

rider said:


> No they don't.....no it wasn't.
> 
> Close, but wrong principals on both counts.


I beleive it was discussed on this forum at lenth recently. Alden now owns the former Cole Hann factory in Maine and produces the Cape Cod line there. The Cape Cod line being very similar, some would say a continuation of, the old (pre-offshore) Cole Haan hendsewn casual line.

Comparing a pair of circa 1985 Cole Haans I own to the current Cape Cod line at Madison Ave would seem to support this.

It was also deterined that this factory, under both managements, has produced private label product for Paul Stuart, so they may have also done so for Polo.


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## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

Has Alden ever made a Chelsea boot?


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## LeatherSOUL (May 8, 2005)

jcusey said:


> Has Alden ever made a Chelsea boot?


I haven't seen one but they did make a side zipper boot.


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## jmonroestyle (Nov 6, 2006)

So any consensus yet on an Alden LeatherSoul/AAAC shoe yet?

Perhaps the styles suggested so far could be presented in a poll format, and those interested could vote for their choice.

I am always ready to buy some more Aldens.

Jess


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

How about a u-throat spectator like XDryMartini's new EG Plymouths:


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## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

AlanC said:


> How about a u-throat spectator like XDryMartini's new EG Plymouth's:


So 8113 in walnut calf and snuff suede? That could be a nice shoe...



jmonroestyle said:


> So any consensus yet on an Alden LeatherSoul/AAAC shoe yet?
> 
> Perhaps the styles suggested so far could be presented in a poll format, and those interested could vote for their choice.


How about this: Tom selects four or five models/configurations that he thinks would be commercially viable and would be interesting for him to do, and we vote?


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## LD111134 (Dec 21, 2007)

well-kept said:


> Because they look like something a woman would wear.


I heard the same thing about spectators! :icon_smile_wink:


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

jcusey said:


> So 8113 in walnut calf and snuff suede? That could be a nice shoe...
> 
> How about this: Tom selects four or five models/configurations that he thinks would be commercially viable and would be interesting for him to do, and we vote?


Yes and yes.


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

I am in love with the Alden 465 blucher. I would give my right arm for that shoe! Its the handsomest Alden I've ever seen!

Is it a law that the more desireable a shoe the less available it is? I would say being less available might make it more desireable but I feel in love with it before I read the comment!

Alden is just toying with us:crazy:

However I've got something on order from Gaziano and Girling very like it so I shall comfort myself with that thought:icon_smile:


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

AlanC said:


> How about a u-throat spectator like XDryMartini's new EG Plymouth's:


Sadly, I can't play in this league, but I bet Alden could make a really great looking version of this shoe. I think this style and this type upper materials would lend themselves very well to one of Alden's lasts.


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## LeatherSOUL (May 8, 2005)

jcusey said:


> How about this: Tom selects four or five models/configurations that he thinks would be commercially viable and would be interesting for him to do, and we vote?


Ok, let me work on it. Give me till Friday since I'm hitting the links tomorrow.  Maybe I'll get some inspiration from the course.


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## LaoHu (Sep 16, 2006)

jcusey said:


> So 8113 in walnut calf and snuff suede? That could be a nice shoe...


That could be a very nice shoe indeed!!


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## jmonroestyle (Nov 6, 2006)

jcusey said:


> How about this: Tom selects four or five models/configurations that he thinks would be commercially viable and would be interesting for him to do, and we vote?


I like this suggestion. I think it would make for interesting forum reading if when people vote for the various models presented, they state their reasons why they voted for a particular style.

Perhaps if there is enough interest, it may be possible to do more than one design.

A blucher on the Plaza last in calf is the only design option with Alden I can physically wear (for fit and comfort reasons). However, this stills leaves lots of design possibilities (spectator two tone leather design, cap toe, brogueing, toe medallions, wing tips etc.).

Maybe it is possible to do a balmoral also.
With more then one choice, more AAAC members could participate in this project.

I guess the challenge will be coming up with designs that are neutral enough to appeal to the broad range of tastes expressed by forum members, yet unique enough to be different from what is currently available from Alden.

Jess


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## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

LeatherSOUL said:


> Ok, let me work on it. Give me till Friday since I'm hitting the links tomorrow.  Maybe I'll get some inspiration from the course.


Bump.

What say you, Tom. No pressure or anything. :icon_smile_wink:


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## LeatherSOUL (May 8, 2005)

jcusey said:


> Bump.
> 
> What say you, Tom. No pressure or anything. :icon_smile_wink:


Ha, give me till Monday...had a large shipment of boots keeping me busy.


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## meister (Oct 29, 2005)

AlanC said:


> How about a u-throat spectator like XDryMartini's new EG Plymouth's:


Great idea and colour combo!


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## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

LeatherSOUL said:


> Ha, give me till Monday...had a large shipment of boots keeping me busy.


Malingerer! :devil:

Here's another interesting vintage Alden model, from :

https://img126.imageshack.us/my.php?image=aldensplittoehw2.jpg

It would be nice in walnut calf with a white suede plug.


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

^That would be a fantastic summer casual shoe.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Having monitored eBay every week for a few years now, both the USA and UK sites, I've started to place Alden and Church's into the same category. Based on the shoes which have shown up on eBay, both companies have produced and sold hundreds of different models over the decades, many of which suggest to me the management of both companies possess little in the way of good taste or restraint. There are some truly awful looking Alden and Church's shoes out there. Both companies seem willing to make almost anything that any retailer, lost in the throes of a bad acid trip, can imagine. The customer is not always right. By way of contrast, I've only seen one or two C&J models on eBay that looked bad.

With that in mind, I will not post the elastic-gore, nappa-leather, vintage Alden loafers of which I have photos...


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## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

Doctor Damage said:


> Having monitored eBay every week for a few years now, both the USA and UK sites, I've started to place Alden and Church's into the same category. Based on the shoes which have shown up on eBay, both companies have produced and sold hundreds of different models over the decades, many of which suggest to me the management of both companies possess little in the way of good taste or restraint. There are some truly awful looking Alden and Church's shoes out there. Both companies seem willing to make almost anything that any retailer, lost in the throes of a bad acid trip, can imagine. The customer is not always right. By way of contrast, I've only seen one or two C&J models on eBay that looked bad.


One thing to keep in mind is that for much of its life, C&J was (and possibly still is) primarily a private-label maker. Alden and Church's, in contrast, have been primarily branded makers. The only private-label work that Alden has done (to the best of my knowledge) is for Brooks Brothers, and I don't know of any private-label work that Church's has done since they launched themselves as a brand many decades ago. It's been a long time since most Western shoe manufacturers could afford to turn down orders from paying customers on the grounds of hideousness, so it's safe to say that C&J made their share of monstrosities during the Peacock Era. Their business model allowed them to bury those orders in a private label, however, where that option wasn't as available to Alden and Church's.



> With that in mind, I will not post the elastic-gore, nappa-leather, vintage Alden loafers of which I have photos...


Oh, please do post them. Hideous they may be, but I'd love to see what Alden has done with elastic in the past.

BTW, have you seen any pics of vintage Stacey Adams shoes? Back in the '50s and early '60s, before they went downmarket and flashy in an attempt to survive, they supposedly made some of the finest shoes in the United States.


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

^It was my understanding that Church's made the 'Brooks English' line for Brooks Brothers, as distinguished from the regular Peal label.


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## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

AlanC said:


> ^It was my understanding that Church's made the 'Brooks English' line for Brooks Brothers, as distinguished from the regular Peal label.


Oi, you're right. Forgot about that. My larger point still holds, though.


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## LeatherSOUL (May 8, 2005)

There have been numerous models that I have come up with that Alden has not approved. I don't know about the past, but now days Art Tarlow Jr. is quite concerned about Alden's image as a conservative American shoe brand. Plus, they do not necessarily let any retailer do this whether or not they are on an acid trip.


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## Brooksfan (Jan 25, 2005)

LD111134 said:


> I don't know what they're called, but I have a pair of mid-1990s vintage Alden wintip kiltie slip-ons in black (an old friend called them a "double-whammy"; add tassels in addition to the wingtip brogue and the kilties and you have a "triple-whammy"). Women love these bad-boys for some reason.


I have a pair of Alden 611 (now discontinued) black calf, wingtip,tassel and kiltie slip ons which my wife refers to as my "Buzz Lightyear" shoes. She says there's just too much going on but I like them and while I don't wear them with suits will wear them with dressier trousers, blazers and sport coats.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

LeatherSOUL said:


> There have been numerous models that I have come up with that Alden has not approved. I don't know about the past, but now days Art Tarlow Jr. is quite concerned about Alden's image as a conservative American shoe brand.


Get them to make this again, the 472. I think it has much better proportions than the LHS.

https://img77.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden4721ym3.jpghttps://img219.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden4722ed5.jpghttps://img76.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden4723yj7.jpg


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

I imagine these Alden loafers must be really old, since they look like a primitive version of the current LHS and the style number is 561 (which is used today to designate one of the calfskin tassel loafers).

https://img300.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden561ayp2.jpghttps://g.imageshack.us/thpix.phphttps://img228.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden561bkf1.jpghttps://g.imageshack.us/thpix.phphttps://img228.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden561czk7.jpghttps://g.imageshack.us/thpix.phphttps://img300.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden561ddl4.jpghttps://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php


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## Ole Hickory (Jan 12, 2008)

Wow both pair are great.I will take a pair of each and am willing to pre-pay + wait to next spring for them. *size 11 b.


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## Mike147 (Jan 15, 2006)

Doctor Damage said:


> Get them to make this again, the 472. I think it has much better proportions than the LHS.
> 
> https://img77.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden4721ym3.jpghttps://img219.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden4722ed5.jpghttps://img76.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alden4723yj7.jpg


with the footbalance heel... very nice and very comfortable


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Clean out the hard-drive day churned up these additional photos of the Alden 472.

This pair looks a lot more like the LHS and might even be cordovan.

https://img375.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ichizen1965img600x45011bi5.jpghttps://g.imageshack.us/thpix.phphttps://img375.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ichizen1965img600x45011ad6.jpghttps://g.imageshack.us/thpix.phphttps://img91.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ichizen1965img600x45011oi0.jpghttps://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php


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## videocrew (Jun 25, 2007)

Doctor Damage said:


> Clean out the hard-drive day churned up these additional photos of the Alden 472.
> 
> This pair looks a lot more like the LHS and might even be cordovan.
> 
> https://img375.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ichizen1965img600x45011bi5.jpghttps://g.imageshack.us/thpix.phphttps://img375.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ichizen1965img600x45011ad6.jpghttps://g.imageshack.us/thpix.phphttps://img91.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ichizen1965img600x45011oi0.jpghttps://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php


The first picture makes it look like they're made by LL Bean


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Brooks Brothers loafers. At first glance I thought these were the Plaza penny loafers, but those have a square-ish toe and the BB pair below doesn't.

https://img528.imageshack.us/my.php?image=0718broksbrosqc9.jpghttps://g.imageshack.us/thpix.phphttps://img263.imageshack.us/my.php?image=0718broksbros2ai2.jpghttps://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Take away the kilt and the spikes, and these look like a convincing Alden _demi-chasse_! I honesty wish Alden did a genuine Norwegian toe treatment like this rather than that "bubbled" faux-Norwegian stitching they do on the NST.

https://img244.imageshack.us/my.php?image=600x4502008011700007su9.jpg
https://img504.imageshack.us/my.php?image=600x4502008011700009tk7.jpg
https://img244.imageshack.us/my.php?image=600x4502008011700008fe5.jpg


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

These loafers are from Alden and look like a variation on the LHS. The code numbers from the inside, according to the eBay seller, are: 8 1/2 B/D 4B06X004-6-714.

https://img291.imageshack.us/my.php?image=a1000a812bd4b06x0046714n.jpg
https://img291.imageshack.us/my.php?image=a1000ck.jpg
https://img291.imageshack.us/my.php?image=a1000d.jpg
https://img291.imageshack.us/my.php?image=a1000f.jpg


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## dport86 (Jan 24, 2009)

Wow: so much for timeless classic American trad wear from alden. Anyone going to buy these on ebay?

https://imagehost.vendio.com/bin/vi...051.jpg,April152009050.jpg,April152009049.jpg
Click to View Image Album
Click to View Image Album
Click to View Image Album


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## Philip12 (Aug 24, 2005)

LeatherSOUL said:


> More like what do the members have in mind? We just did a Style Forum boot that a few members collabortated on. If we can come up with a design and a few people committed, I'd be more than happy to have it made.


What about LHS loafers in mahogany shell? If Ron Rider can have this color, why can't Alden (anymore)?


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

LeatherSOUL said:


> One thing I really notice with all the vintage Aldens I've seen is the almost perfect stitching and welting.


These days they are far from perfect stitching and welting, unfortunately.

Anyway, here's an odd penny loafer / boat shoe hybrid. I think these would make perfect penny loafers (with a leather sole).

https://img690.imageshack.us/i/vectorgogoimg600x450121.jpg/https://img705.imageshack.us/i/vectorgogoimg600x450121.jpg/https://img146.imageshack.us/i/vectorgogoimg600x450121.jpg/


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## Thom Browne's Schooldays (Jul 29, 2007)

I just found a 950 (tan/orange blutcher-barrie last)
and a 
"CU" black pebble longwing-foot balance last

also: anyone heard of the 923?
burgandy calf single sole captoe bal


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