# Plaid Jackets: Life Magazine Fashion Shoot 1950



## AldenPyle (Oct 8, 2006)

Here's something from the bottomless life magazine archive. Anyway, it looks like it could be a Ralph Lauren ad from anytime in the last 30 years.


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## AldenPyle (Oct 8, 2006)

Not much to say but tons more pics here https://images.google.com/images?ndsp=21&hl=en&q=plaid+jackets+source:life&start=0&sa=N


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## AldenPyle (Oct 8, 2006)

*Formal Wear too*


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## P Hudson (Jul 19, 2008)

Thanks for posting some great images. I have to say, however, that after years of looking at pictures of students, astronauts, politicians, etc., that picture of the four guys smoking is imo the worst I've seen. There is almost nothing I like about the way they are wearing their clothes, except for the fellow on the right of the picture. Am I failing to appreciate something here?

On the other hand, I love the pictures from the party, the tartan pants esp.


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## AldenPyle (Oct 8, 2006)

P Hudson said:


> Thanks for posting some great images. I have to say, however, that after years of looking at pictures of students, astronauts, politicians, etc., that picture of the four guys smoking is imo the worst I've seen. There is almost nothing I like about the way they are wearing their clothes, except for the fellow on the right of the picture. Am I failing to appreciate something here?
> 
> On the other hand, I love the pictures from the party, the tartan pants esp.


Personally I am into the vests.


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## Earl of Ormonde (Sep 5, 2008)

AldenPyle said:


>


The first chap here wouldn't have been out of place amongst the teddy boys in late 50s England. That jacket (which seems as long as the Edwardian drape coats worn by teddy boys) with that pattern, plus his hair, makes him look like a teddy boy in a bow tie.


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## Earl of Ormonde (Sep 5, 2008)

AldenPyle said:


> Personally I am into the vests.


Me too. And one would hope they were a deep green with a yellow stripe.


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## AldenPyle (Oct 8, 2006)

*How about this*


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

AP,
Thank you for posting pictures. It brings back good memories


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## Earl of Ormonde (Sep 5, 2008)

AldenPyle said:


>


The soft collar, solid colour BD, and the fact that it's a BD in the first place, and the large bright check on the cap give it away as faux Anglo....which I think looks awful. Either correct Am. trad or full Anglo, the mix of both doesn't work in my opinion,not then ,not now.


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## Christopher_NY (Mar 31, 2005)

*Odd sense of fashion.*

These gents must have been having quite a party. What type of jacket is the chap on the left wearing?

Alternatively, is it possible that the plaid was an outfit and the chaps switched trousers?!?

https://img297.imageshack.us/my.php?image=oddplaidmf9.jpg


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## Joe Beamish (Mar 21, 2008)

Great pics, AP, thanks for posting.

The cut of those tartan pants! Absolutely perfect.

And I'm diggin' those polka dot ties (FIH and bow). Altogether it's great to see all the different textures and patterns these guys are mixing up so juantily.


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## Naval Gent (May 12, 2007)

Christopher_NY said:


> What type of jacket is the chap on the left wearing?
> 
> https://img297.imageshack.us/my.php?image=oddplaidmf9.jpg


That's a "Mess Jacket" patterned after black tie military officer uniforms. Something that never caught on for civilian wear I suppose. You do see a similarly cut jacket (called a "Prince Charlie") used for Highland Formalwear.

Scott


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## clemsontiger (Jun 9, 2007)

P Hudson said:


> Thanks for posting some great images. I have to say, however, that after years of looking at pictures of students, astronauts, politicians, etc., that picture of the four guys smoking is imo the worst I've seen. There is almost nothing I like about the way they are wearing their clothes, except for the fellow on the right of the picture. Am I failing to appreciate something here?
> 
> On the other hand, I love the pictures from the party, the tartan pants esp.


Maybe it has something to do with their pleated pants and point collars.

I think they ooze class.


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## paper clip (May 15, 2006)

AldenPyle said:


> Not much to say but tons more pics here https://images.google.com/images?ndsp=21&hl=en&q=plaid+jackets+source:life&start=0&sa=N


the guy in the back with glasses and bow looks like Philip Seymour Hoffmann as Capote! (IMDB wouldn't let me get the photo info to link the photo)

https://www.imdb.com/media/rm1438226688/nm0000450


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## vwguy (Jul 23, 2004)

P Hudson said:


> Thanks for posting some great images. I have to say, however, that after years of looking at pictures of students, astronauts, politicians, etc., that picture of the four guys smoking is imo the worst I've seen. There is almost nothing I like about the way they are wearing their clothes, except for the fellow on the right of the picture. Am I failing to appreciate something here?


Yeah, what's the term I'm looking for...too affected?

Brian


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## Earl of Ormonde (Sep 5, 2008)

vwguy said:


> Yeah, what's the term I'm looking for...too affected?
> 
> Brian


Yes, but hasn't Ivy League per definiton always been "overly affected".
Too much attention to dress codes and fashion detilis?


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## Literide (Nov 11, 2004)

Earl of Ormonde said:


> Yes, but hasn't Ivy League per definiton always been "overly affected".
> Too much attention to dress codes and fashion detilis?


Yes and pleats were common in the 50s. Sacks with flat front peg legs were more 60s. Most seem to think you need to snapshot 1963 to be truly trad, whereas Ivy leaguers/prep schoolers and various young, or not so young, priveleged types have always mixed natural shoulder jackets with anglo (both country and city) gear and other elements that may be fashionable at the time.


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## Literide (Nov 11, 2004)

Christopher_NY said:


> These gents must have been having quite a party. What type of jacket is the chap on the left wearing?
> 
> Alternatively, is it possible that the plaid was an outfit and the chaps switched trousers?!?
> 
> https://img297.imageshack.us/my.php?image=oddplaidmf9.jpg


Dont know about the switcheroo, but they need a lesson in semi-formal evening footwear.

Tartan, at various times, seems to play a big part of semi-formal wear for home entertaining.


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## Literide (Nov 11, 2004)

Earl of Ormonde said:


> The soft collar, solid colour BD, and the fact that it's a BD in the first place, and the large bright check on the cap give it away as faux Anglo....which I think looks awful. Either correct Am. trad or full Anglo, the mix of both doesn't work in my opinion,not then ,not now.


He may be indeed hamming it up for the photographers much as our young friends at Princeton whose photos were featured here were doing.


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## rsmeyer (May 14, 2006)

Earl of Ormonde said:


> The first chap here wouldn't have been out of place amongst the teddy boys in late 50s England. That jacket (which seems as long as the Edwardian drape coats worn by teddy boys) with that pattern, plus his hair, makes him look like a teddy boy in a bow tie.


He resembles the tennis star Bill Talbert-is it him?


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## vwguy (Jul 23, 2004)

Earl of Ormonde said:


> Yes, but hasn't Ivy League per definiton always been "overly affected".
> Too much attention to dress codes and fashion detilis?


Who knows, these guys just look like they're trying way too hard.

Brian


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## Mannix (Nov 24, 2008)

Awesome!


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## rsmeyer (May 14, 2006)

vwguy said:


> Who knows, these guys just look like they're trying way too hard.
> 
> Brian


Yeah, they should just slip into t-shirts, blue jeans and sneakers, right?


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## Earl of Ormonde (Sep 5, 2008)

vwguy said:


> Who knows, these guys just look like they're trying way too hard.
> 
> Brian


Well that's exactly what I mean by "overly affected"


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## Earl of Ormonde (Sep 5, 2008)

rsmeyer said:


> Yeah, they should just slip into t-shirts, blue jeans and sneakers, right?


Wrong! However, (as has been discussed to death here by Cruiser and others of the older members) they shouldn't look like parodies, or look uncomfortable or look as if they've spent several hours getting dressed in consultation with their friends.

True style: You take it out of the wardrobe, you put it on, you go! It's in your wardrobe, it's your style.


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## Joe Beamish (Mar 21, 2008)

*I dunno*

Those guys may look like parodies to us, here and now -- but in their own time they probably just looked a little jaunty and young, which they were. Of course everyone wore jackets and ties, and even vests; at any rate the styles got a little giddy in the half decade or so after WWII.


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## Zot! (Feb 18, 2008)

Joe Beamish said:


> Those guys may look like parodies to us, here and now -- but in their own time they probably just looked a little jaunty and young, which they were. Of course everyone wore jackets and ties, and even vests; at any rate the styles got a little giddy in the half decade or so after WWII.


Don't discount how "posed" and/or manufactured the situations in photos in magazines like _Life_ used to be. We talk a lot about journalists digitally manipulating photos now, but that stuff went on as much back then, just not after the fact. It would be helpful to know the context of the article.


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## AldenPyle (Oct 8, 2006)

Zot! said:


> Don't discount how "posed" and/or manufactured the situations in photos in magazines like _Life_ used to be. We talk a lot about journalists digitally manipulating photos now, but that stuff went on as much back then, just not after the fact. It would be helpful to know the context of the article.


Good point. I don't know anything about the article this is attached too. Given that they are all wearing the same vest pattern, I guess it is safe to say that they are i) dressed for a photo shoot; ii) all members of a plaid vested singing group; or iii) 4 tools who decided to hang out together wearing plaid vests on the same street that a Life photographer happened to be walking down. In any case, I think it is sound advice that if you wear the same plaid vest as 3 of your friends, you will look overly contrived.


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## rsmeyer (May 14, 2006)

AldenPyle said:


> Good point. I don't know anything about the article this is attached too. Given that they are all wearing the same vest pattern, I guess it is safe to say that they are i) dressed for a photo shoot; ii) all members of a plaid vested singing group; or iii) 4 tools who decided to hang out together wearing plaid vests on the same street that a Life photographer happened to be walking down. In any case, I think it is sound advice that if you wear the same plaid vest as 3 of your friends, you will look overly contrived.


How about when everyone wears jeans and sneakers?


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## AldenPyle (Oct 8, 2006)

rsmeyer said:


> How about when everyone wears jeans and sneakers?


No, you wont look contrived. Nor will you when everyone wears khakis and boatshoes, nor when everyone wears grey flannel and loafers. But a plaid vest is meant to add a little flair to the ensemble. I don't think anyone in actuality is in any danger of showing up to class wearing the same plaid vest as their friends. I was just pointing out why some might find that particular photo contrived.

I think all those guys look great individually yet contrived as a group. That is, as Zot pointed out, likely a function of them being asked to pose for a photo shoot by photographers who probably didn't have all that much experience shooting fashion (did anyone in 1950?). In any case, I don't think that whatever contrivance is in evidence should prevent anyone today from learning something from their style.


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## P Hudson (Jul 19, 2008)

Alden,

Great post. I appreciate your thoughts here.

I was the first to make a negative comment about the 4 guys, so I'll try to write this by way of interaction with your thoughts.

I have looked at hundreds of trad-wearing-students pictures. I'm sure there are many exceptions, but in the last couple weeks I had been marveling at the fit of Ivy League jackets, esp. noting that the shoulders were so well done.

Then I saw these images. My first observation was that these guys are obviously "dressed up". While I can picture them in taped up Weejuns, short khakis and off white socks, they are going for something different here. So my question is this: why are the two on the left of the image (esp the one wearing pleats with his tongue sticking out) wearing jackets that fit so poorly in the shoulders? Is that characteristic of this particular era, or are the jackets just too big? I quickly got past the fact that the jacket on the left of the picture isn't hanging properly, and that one pocket flap is half tucked (just like the fellow standing next to him), but can't get past the fact that the shoulders look like they are 2-3 inches too broad.


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## AldenPyle (Oct 8, 2006)

P Hudson said:


> Alden,
> 
> Is that characteristic of this particular era, or are the jackets just too big? I quickly got past the fact that the jacket on the left of the picture isn't hanging properly, and that one pocket flap is half tucked (just like the fellow standing next to him), but can't get past the fact that the shoulders look like they are 2-3 inches too broad.


Fair enough and I think you are right. The pics are dated 1950 so it might be that these are more in the "drape/lounge suit" cut than the natural shoulder or maybe they were "Bold Look" influenced. Or maybe, they just don't fit. Worth pondering.


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## AldenPyle (Oct 8, 2006)

Just found the Life Article that these photos were used for.


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## AldenPyle (Oct 8, 2006)




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## AldenPyle (Oct 8, 2006)

Interesting that Chipp is credited with introducing the Tartans to the American Trad look. They seemed to have done a lot of creative stuff. Here are some pictures of Chipp also in the Life archive.


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## AldenPyle (Oct 8, 2006)

These are additional pictures of the shop at Andover


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## Cruiser (Jul 21, 2006)

Heck guys, I don't need no stinking Life magazine photo to see plaid jackets of the 50's. I just look in my own family photo album where I find this picture of me in 1953. :icon_smile:










Cruiser


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## WouldaShoulda (Aug 5, 2009)

The Universal Cook-a-matic = George Forman Grill.

Is nothing new??


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## Naval Gent (May 12, 2007)

Great stuff, AP. I love the first sentence of the text which says that the British aren't amused by Americans' love of tartan. What they mean, of course, is that the ENGLISH aren't amused. Scotland is part of Great Britain, and Scots tend to be very amused and mildly flattered by our appreciation of their national dress. But something about seeing an American in tartan tends to send an Englishman into apoplexy. (In fairness to the English, I do think we can overdo it a bit. Those caps would make Harry Lauder blush)

Scott


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## TDI GUY (Oct 26, 2008)

WouldaShoulda said:


> The Universal Cook-a-matic = George Forman Grill.
> 
> Is nothing new??


I had the exact same thought when I saw that add.

Great pics, AP.


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## Reds & Tops (Feb 20, 2009)

Thanks for reviving this thread AP. Absolutely fantastic shots.


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## DCLawyer68 (Jun 1, 2009)

Naval Gent said:


> Great stuff, AP. I love the first sentence of the text which says that the British aren't amused by Americans' love of tartan. What they mean, of course, is that the ENGLISH aren't amused. Scotland is part of Great Britain, and Scots tend to be very amused and mildly flattered by our appreciation of their national dress. But something about seeing an American in tartan tends to send an Englishman into apoplexy. (In fairness to the English, I do think we can overdo it a bit. Those caps would make Harry Lauder blush)
> 
> Scott


Well, they had their chance. They bunged it and we rebelled. ic12337:

Winning wins we can wear their ties and their tartans over here.


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

AP,
I greatly appreciate your efforts. The pictures bring back memories of my youth. I definitely had tartan sport coats and tartan hats


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## rsmeyer (May 14, 2006)

AldenPyle said:


> Just found the Life Article that these photos were used for.


As in my previous response, I thought this was Bill Talbert, tennis great. As for the rest who didn't like my aspersion of the jean-t-shirt sneaker look, of course the Life photos were posed and somewhat artificial, but good Lord, don't they look better than what I railed against? If you don't think so, should you be posting on a forum supposedly dedicated to the finer points of men's clothing?


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

I wish there were more photos available of the quintessential madras sack.


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## Reds & Tops (Feb 20, 2009)

I wish I could go back in time and pay $39.50 for a brand new suit...:icon_smile_big:


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## P Hudson (Jul 19, 2008)

Tartan and Spartan. I like it. 

Thanks for keeping this thread alive.


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## Cowtown (Aug 10, 2006)

rsmeyer said:


> As in my previous response, I thought this was Bill Talbert, tennis great. As for the rest who didn't like my aspersion of the jean-t-shirt sneaker look, of course the Life photos were posed and somewhat artificial, but good Lord, don't they look better than what I railed against? If you don't think so, should you be posting on a forum supposedly dedicated to the finer points of men's clothing?


Well said.


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