# L.L. Bean Hamilton watch -- refurbishment?



## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

I picked this up last week and would like to get it in working order, but need to figure out if it's worth it, how much it would cost (ballpark) and where to send it.





My watch knowledge is about negative 5, although I can tell time.


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## spinlps (Feb 15, 2004)

Alan - Check out these posts:





Your is in much better shape than mine when it went in. Cosmetics look good so a standard clean & lube should be all you need.


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## Topsider (Jul 9, 2005)

Those older mechanicals were made by Hamilton, and should be easily serviceable by any competent watchmaker. Check your local Yellow Pages. Assuming no major problems, a full cleaning and service will most likely be somewhere around $100.


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## A.Squire (Apr 5, 2006)

Very handsome watch, Alan--althought $100, if Kent is correct, to get it in tick-tock order might smart a little.


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## spinlps (Feb 15, 2004)

KentW said:


> Those older mechanicals were made by Hamilton, and should be easily serviceable by any competent watchmaker. Check your local Yellow Pages. Assuming no major problems, a full cleaning and service will most likely be somewhere around $100.


That's on the high side. I paid $100 for:

Movement Clean & Service
New Crystal
Dial & Hand Relum
Grosgrain Strap

Clean and service should only cost $30 - $40 from a reputable horologist / watch maker.


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

spinlps said:


> Alan - Check out these posts:
> 
> Your is in much better shape than mine when it went in. Cosmetics look good so a standard clean & lube should be all you need.


I saw those, but had completely forgotten about them for some reason. Very nice, and gives inspiration. Where did you pick yours up?



KentW said:


> Those older mechanicals were made by Hamilton, and should be easily serviceable by any competent watchmaker. Check your local Yellow Pages. Assuming no major problems, a full cleaning and service will most likely be somewhere around $100.


I found a local place that may be just the ticket.



A.Squire said:


> Very handsome watch, Alan--althought $100, if Kent is correct, to get it in tick-tock order might smart a little.


$100 _always_ smarts.


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## A.Squire (Apr 5, 2006)

spinlps said:


> Clean and service should only cost $30 - $40 from a reputable horologist...


My mind is only capable of small thoughts.


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## spinlps (Feb 15, 2004)

A.Squire said:


> My mind is only capable of small thoughts.


Rivaled only by Alden's boning tool eh?


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

From what era do the Bean Hamiltons date?


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## A.Squire (Apr 5, 2006)

spinlps said:


> Rivaled only by Alden's boning tool eh?


Please forgive me, I swear I'm not 13. My high school though--it was so small--almost all of my classmates boys--I'm married now, but my thoughts...so juvenile.


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## tripreed (Dec 8, 2005)

I've been very pleased with the service that I've received at Barton Clay Jewelers down in Mountain Brook village. While I've only had watch service done there once, I was quite pleased. When I was in Bham back in October, my old Seiko automatic broke. I took it to all of the jewelry stores in Mountain Brook to see if anyone could repair it that day, but since none of them said that they could, I took it to Barton Clay because I've been pleased with other stuff they've done for me in the past. Anyways, I dropped it off and the next day they called and said they couldn't repair it because it the part they needed was no longer made. Well, I was out of town by that time so my friend picked up the watch for me and brought it up to South Carolina for me (he was coming to see me anyways). Well, lo and behold, I pulled the watch out and it was working fine. I'm thinking that something was loose and they fixed it for me, and in order to not have to charge me for it, the watch guy told them that they couldn't fix it. Anyways, to sum up, if you don't want to mail your watch away to get it worked on, I would maybe take it up there and get a quote.


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

^Good suggestion. I was thinking maybe this place.


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## Naval Gent (May 12, 2007)

Looks like it's in pretty good shape. You could just throw a new battery in there and see what happens. A quartz Hamilton ain't exactly a Patek Philippe.

I have a watch exactly like that. When my Rolex went into the shop a year ago, I dug it out, put in a new battery, and it served me well for a month or so until the "A" watch was back on my wrist. I bet it's still running.

Scott


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

As I said, I know _nothing_ about watches, but is this one battery operated? I wound it up some last night and discovered it running this morning (maybe I just woke the battery up?). The crown is loose somehow, though, and will need to be repaired.


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## egadfly (Nov 10, 2006)

AlanC said:


> As I said, I know _nothing_ about watches, but is this one battery operated? I wound it up some last night and discovered it running this morning (maybe I just woke the battery up?). The crown is loose somehow, though, and will need to be repaired.


I thought the Hamilton-era field watches were all automatics, though I could be wrong. I know that at some point -- late-80's/early 90's, maybe -- Bean began selling quartz (i.e., battery-powered) watches under their own marque. This may have coincided with Hamilton becoming a Swatch subsidiary.

I've always liked the old automatic field watches; much nicer, IMO, than a quartz Timex.

EGF


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## Naval Gent (May 12, 2007)

Mine's a quartz, and it looks just like that (well, except my crystal is cracked). BTW, I seem to recall that watch was a Christmas present circa 1980 / 81.

Edit - I googled one up that definately is an automatic. Looks just the same. You should be able to tell since yours is running now. I bet it's an automatic based on its recent resurrection.

Scott


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## spinlps (Feb 15, 2004)

Alan's watch is neither quartz or an automatic; its a manual wind Hamilton for Bean model. Depending on model year, it may also be a hacking movement. When running well, you should get anywhere from 36 - 48hours from a full wind. If you get significantly less than that, do not wind it further and take it in for service.


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## Laxplayer (Apr 26, 2006)

spinlps said:


> That's on the high side. I paid $100 for:
> 
> Movement Clean & Service
> New Crystal
> ...


That sounds more like it. I paid around $30 for mine to be cleaned and serviced.


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## spinlps (Feb 15, 2004)

One more thing, ask your watch maker to jot down the manuf dates if you're interested in the age of the watch. I doubt they'll be on the movement but they should be on the inside of the caseback.


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## Naval Gent (May 12, 2007)

spinlps said:


> Alan's watch is neither quartz or an automatic; its a manual wind Hamilton for Bean model.


Just curious - how could you tell?

Hacking movement means that the second hand stops when you pull out the stem?

Thanks,

Scott


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## spinlps (Feb 15, 2004)

Naval Gent said:


> Just curious - how could you tell?
> 
> Hacking movement means that the second hand stops when you pull out the stem?
> 
> ...


Just an educated guess really. Most watches of this vintage (I'm guessing late 70's through the 80's) were labeled "Quartz" or "Automatic" on the dial. "Quartz" proclaiming the newness and reliability of the technology, "Automatic" indicating better than a manual without having to change all those batteries. Manual winds did not possess either marketing acumen and were left unmarked.

I also have a nearly identical watch (see links above) which is also a manual.

Yes, a hacking movement stops the second hand to allow folks to synch their watches.


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## Mugnut (Sep 27, 2007)

I am fairly certain that the LL bean/Hamilton is nearly identical to the Hamilton MIL-W-46374D Type 1 which was U.S. Army issue through 1991 (??). At least it looks nearly identical to mine, though with LL Bean branding and not the army dial (which differs primarily because it has no branding at all, and also bear a radiation marker b/c of the tritium paint used in the numerals and hands).

It should be a manual. You wind it 'til it just fetches up. Take it off your wrist to wind, and wind away from you (i.e., counterclockwise if you were facing the stem-side of the watch). This model should hack - but that's of little importance unless you "need to the minute" precision, but it is cool and another allusion to the military heritage.

I wear mine on a striped J. Press Nato strap (at 33mm, it wears a little small for me these days, so I don't wear it that much). Your's appears to have fixed spring bars (another clue that it is likely closely related to the military model, which also have fixed bars), so you will need a ribbon or Nato strap because you can't remove the pins the affix a leather strap.

Frankly, I wouldn't restore it at all if it is keeping decent time once you wind it.

All around a cool watch, whether in its MIL-W-46374D or LL Bean configuration, and genuinely a classic. I've been enjoying this thread because I need a new crystal and some new lume on mine (it has taken some bonks to the crystal).

Link has some info on the equivalent military watches. https://www.olive-drab.com/od_soldiers_gear_watch_46374.php

One more link to a nice pictorial evoluation of the military version: https://www.50717.com/us/hamilton-46374.html


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## markdc (May 17, 2007)

tripreed said:


> I've been very pleased with the service that I've received at Barton Clay Jewelers down in Mountain Brook village. While I've only had watch service done there once, I was quite pleased. When I was in Bham back in October, my old Seiko automatic broke. I took it to all of the jewelry stores in Mountain Brook to see if anyone could repair it that day, but since none of them said that they could, I took it to Barton Clay because I've been pleased with other stuff they've done for me in the past. Anyways, I dropped it off and the next day they called and said they couldn't repair it because it the part they needed was no longer made. Well, I was out of town by that time so my friend picked up the watch for me and brought it up to South Carolina for me (he was coming to see me anyways). Well, lo and behold, I pulled the watch out and it was working fine. I'm thinking that something was loose and they fixed it for me, and in order to not have to charge me for it, the watch guy told them that they couldn't fix it. Anyways, to sum up, if you don't want to mail your watch away to get it worked on, I would maybe take it up there and get a quote.


does barton clay do adjusting/regulating for automatics? i have an automatic that's running a little faster per day than i'd prefer.


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

Spin and Mugnut, thanks for the details. That's just the sort of thing I was looking for. I'll be taking it in on Wednesday (I think) for work on it. Now I need to order a Nato strap.


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## tripreed (Dec 8, 2005)

markdc said:


> does barton clay do adjusting/regulating for automatics? i have an automatic that's running a little faster per day than i'd prefer.


Most likely. I suspect that they are a full service watch place. You should drop by some time, or give them a call: 205-871-7060


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## Naval Gent (May 12, 2007)

spinlps said:


> Just an educated guess really. Most watches of this vintage (I'm guessing late 70's through the 80's) were labeled "Quartz" or "Automatic" on the dial. "Quartz" proclaiming the newness and reliability of the technology, "Automatic" indicating better than a manual without having to change all those batteries. Manual winds did not possess either marketing acumen and were left unmarked.


spinlps - Evidently you are 100% correct. My old watch indeed says "Quartz" right there under the Hamilton. I should know better than to rely on own recall.

BTW - My field watch hadn't been touched in 14 months before tonight. It's still running, but has gained about 3 minutes. Pretty accurate - much more than my memory.

Scott


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## markdc (May 17, 2007)

tripreed said:


> Most likely. I suspect that they are a full service watch place. You should drop by some time, or give them a call: 205-871-7060


thanks. i'll probably also give alabama watch company a call.


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## Topsider (Jul 9, 2005)

spinlps said:


> Clean and service should only cost $30 - $40 from a reputable horologist / watch maker.


Caveat emptor. For that price, I suspect they're only going to blow a little compressed air into the movement, put a few drops of lube on the pivots, and maybe take a stab at regulating it (if it runs).

A true "complete service" involves disassembly and cleaning of the entire movement, replacement of any worn parts, along with regulating and pressure-testing (if the watch is water resistant).

Either way, you'll get what you pay for.


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## spinlps (Feb 15, 2004)

KentW said:


> Caveat emptor. For that price, I suspect they're only going to blow a little compressed air into the movement, put a few drops of lube on the pivots, and maybe take a stab at regulating it (if it runs).
> 
> A true "complete service" involves disassembly and cleaning of the entire movement, replacement of any worn parts, along with regulating and pressure-testing (if the watch is water resistant).
> 
> Either way, you'll get what you pay for.


Agreed. $30 - $40 is a complete service as you described. I received a bag of worn / replaced parts (an O-ring, and two worn parts) and before / after regulation plots.

Price differences aside, I think we can both agree that shops claiming 24 hour turn around or repairs while you wait invite some scrutiny. The watch I posted last week was a six week job. Based on previous jobs / regulation plots, regulation can take a week or so.


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## markdc (May 17, 2007)

spinlps said:


> Agreed. $30 - $40 is a complete service as you described. I received a bag of worn / replaced parts (an O-ring, and two worn parts) and before / after regulation plots.
> 
> Price differences aside, I think we can both agree that shops claiming 24 hour turn around or repairs while you wait invite some scrutiny. The watch I posted last week was a six week job. Based on previous jobs / regulation plots, regulation can take a week or so.


in your experience, how much does a sole regulation job cost?


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## spinlps (Feb 15, 2004)

markdc said:


> in your experience, how much does a sole regulation job cost?


It will depend on the movement with chrono, on the high end. To be honest, I'm not sure you'll find many who will just regulate a watch without at least inspecting the movement. No sense regulating a watch if the movement itself is compromised.


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## markdc (May 17, 2007)

spinlps said:


> It will depend on the movement with chrono, on the high end. To be honest, I'm not sure you'll find many who will just regulate a watch without at least inspecting the movement. No sense regulating a watch if the movement itself is compromised.


i just have a relatively cheap invicta 8926 that runs ~15 seconds fast per day, which isn't completely ridiculous considering the price i paid for it, but +/- 5 seconds per day would be more preferable. also, i'm a student, and don't have *that* much cash lying around. ;-)


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

Okay, I move slow, but I finally had this watch refurbished. It wasn't cheap, but it's done and I think the results are good:


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## martylane (May 28, 2008)

I have a similar watch that I bought in 1989 or '90. The watch face has "Khaki" printed on it. It couldn't have cost much back then, because I was living in DC on GS-6 pay. I had recently left the Army, and I guess I wanted the watch as a sort of tribute to my time in uniform. 

I recently had it restored, which cost $125 and included a new spring. My local watch repairman told me the movement is Swiss. FWIW, I've found that a little Brasso will buff out scuffs on the crystal.


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## chilton (Jul 16, 2008)

I have a current navy automatic with rubber strap that I wear often, unfortunately the screw down crown stripped recently. Watch works fine, just the crown no longer sits flush. Is this serviceable? Any cost estimates?

Thanks


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## Thom Browne's Schooldays (Jul 29, 2007)

Looks GREAT Alan.

Very solid, something that cold take some abuse, my timex+central band looks flimsy in comparison.


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## Topsider (Jul 9, 2005)

Well done, Alan. That's a good looking watch.

I had one back in the early '90's. Stupidly, I tossed it when it got some moisture in it and stopped running. That was before I knew any better.


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