# On duffles, Gloverall, etc.



## egadfly (Nov 10, 2006)

My fellow Trads --

I'm in the market for a duffle coat (my first) and hoping to become less ignorant before dropping what I assume will be a considerable sum of money. I've read all the prior threads on this topic, and Gloverall seems to be the consensus choice for quality and overall tradliness. But which one? Their website shows at least four models, and is not very descriptive as to the differences thereamong. Further, while it's been discussed before that simply rebrands the Gloverall and sells it as their own, it looks to me that buying direct from the source -- even with overseas shipping and taxes -- would be cheaper than the Press coat, _n__'est-ce pas_? Or have I overlooked something?

Similarly, is anyone able to make any qualitative comparisons between the Gloverall and the 100% camel hair B2 duffle? Or recommend any other good sources for high quality traditional duffels? I've looked at the coats on STP, but the wool content (65%) seems too low. Money is always a consideration, but I do expect to wear this until I drop, then hand down to whichever of my future sons-in-law is then in favor, so I'm prepared to be set back a bit.

Thanks in advance for any and all thoughts, comments, suggestions, _et. cetera.
_
Warmly,

-- Egadfly


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## JDDY (Mar 18, 2006)

One variance I remember pointed out on this very forum- the B^2 version has a collar whereas the Gloverall does not (should that be a factor). I would guess no collar is the "original", but maybe a collar is a nice feature.

It looks like Gloverall has some color choices other than navy and camel- I like the look of the "cognac herringbone" on the Kingston model, but the picture is really small.


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## egadfly (Nov 10, 2006)

Good point about the collar, JDDY, thanks. Also, the B2 hood is detachable -- though I can't decide whether or not that's a plus.

Looks like Dann's and O'Connell's both sell the Gloveralls. O'Connell's seems to be cheapest.


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## smets (Sep 22, 2006)

cable car has them as well:



priced a little too high for me, but I'm sure it is a premium duffel


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## Tom Rath (May 31, 2005)

Brooks version is made in China, and seems to forgo some of the true duffle touches, such as the sleeves, which they leave unadorned. Rather than the more traditional, with that strap that goes across the sleeve by the hand. 

Press are rebadged Gloveralls. How do I know, well, I own 2 of them. One in camel, and one in tan cotton, known as the Monty. Press didnt even bother removing the Gloverall logo on the latter.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Don't forget to dig through old threads, guys, as I know Harris did some serious research into duffle coats earlier this year.


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## egadfly (Nov 10, 2006)

Doctor Damage said:


> Don't forget to dig through old threads, guys, as I know Harris did some serious research into duffle coats earlier this year.


Thank you, Doctor. I thought I had read everything in the archive, but it's possible that I overlooked something. In any case, I've sent an email to Gloverall asking some pointed questions about , and will report back if I learn anything that might be of value to others.

-- Egadfly


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## Pressfan (Aug 6, 2003)

A couple of other options to consider would be the Burberry and Aquascutum duffle coats. I believe both are made by Gloverall (I remember reading that Gloverall makes duffles for many other marques; if it is made in England, it is likely made by Gloverall). I own a couple of the Burberry duffles and find the wool to be nicer than the Gloveralls (100% wool versus a blend). Having owned many Gloveralls in the past (from elementary school on up), the drawback is the Burberry doesn't have a zipper. My father currently has an Aquascutum; the fabric is a wool blend, but nicer than the Gloverall and it does have a zipper. If I were to purchase another duffle, I think I would go with the Aquascutum.

Paul and Shark have also made a very nice duffle in the past, but I am not sure if they have one in their current collection. I would also think that Daks would have a model on offer that might be worth a look.


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## Markus (Sep 14, 2004)

*Well, the Press and O'Connells both feature the blend, vs. 100% wool*



egadfly said:


> Good point about the collar, JDDY, thanks. Also, the B2 hood is detachable -- though I can't decide whether or not that's a plus.
> 
> Looks like Dann's and O'Connell's both sell the Gloveralls. O'Connell's seems to be cheapest.


I don't own a duffle, but would like to. To those of you who own the Press, or one of the Gloveralls that is made of a wool blend, how do you compare it to a 100% wool coat? Do you care?

I think the cable car model is one of the 100% wool ones. That might explain the difference in price. Also, the BB duff is 100% wool.

But I do like those traditional details on the genuine glovie 512.

Markus


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Markus said:


> ...But I do like those traditional details on the genuine glovie 512...


I think going custom is the only way to get what you want, now that Gloverall has abandoned the "classic" model (we'll see what egadfly finds out). Actually, duffle coats are so simple in design (no shaping, no lining) that a skilled mother or aunt could probably put together a decent one. Attaching the hood would be the only tricky part, but the original coats were churned out by the hundreds of thousands so they can't have been complex.

I believe the actual company that makes all the duffle coats sold by Gloverall, Barbour, BB, etc., is Tibbett of England, which used to have a website but now doesn't. Unless they were bought out. The duffle coat I had up on the forum was bought directly from Tibbett.


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## Harris (Jan 30, 2006)

Wasn't Tibbett the maker of the original Monty? Curious.

Gloverall reintroduced the tri-(rope and)-toggled model this year. It's offered in navy, dark brown, and tan. 90% wool. You can see it if you click on "brochure" at the Gloverall website. I believe the # is 575-52.

I wonder who's making Barbour's duffle. It looks a bit different from the duffle of recent years, including the recently added leather and horn toggles.


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## Markus (Sep 14, 2004)

*Harris, its good to see a post by you.*

welcome back from your vacation...

And if I may say so sir, a very good choice.

Markus


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## egadfly (Nov 10, 2006)

Doctor Damage said:


> I think going custom is the only way to get what you want, now that Gloverall has abandoned the "classic" model (we'll see what egadfly finds out).


Not much, unfortunately, Doctor. The sales manager who responded to my email glossed over most of my questions, though she did say that the 512/C is their biggest seller. It's certainly a nice coat, from the looks of it, if only 75% wool. Also, the price seems fair: about $400 all told.

Pressfan, my admittedly prejudiced feeling about buying Burberry is that, like PRL, one pays an enormous premium for the label. (The brand has become very big with Cristal-swilling hip-hop moguls, I'm led to understand. Not that there's anything wrong with that.) Or do you disagree?

Couldn't find out much about the Aquascutum coats on-line, I'm afraid. Their website is awful.

I guess I'm leaning towards the Gloverall 512/C: it's got the traditional details (and pedigree) and the price is right. Or have I allowed my Yankee frugality to run away with me?

-- Egadfly


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## Pressfan (Aug 6, 2003)

Egadfly, I purchased the navy Burberry duffle after Christmas a couple of years ago at a Burberry shop for $399. Given the scarcity of a nice duffle and given that the Gloveralls go for much more than that here in Toronto, I didn't think it was such a bad deal. The tan Burberry duffle was a gift from a relative in the U.K. who had purchased it at an outlet several years earlier, but decided he didn't like it. It was still on the manufacturer hanger complete with hang tags. How could I refuse!

Given the fact that the famous plaid is used for the lining only, I don't think it falls into the purview of Cristal-swilling hip-hop moguls! You will find that the British makers all line their duffles with their respective house checks; this is probably the only way to differentiate an otherwise classic item.

It is interesting what has happened here with respect to Gloverall. They used to be ubiquitous. I (or my parents) used to buy them at Eaton's, a Canadian department store which met its demise several years ago after several attempts to re-invent itself. They were by no means considered exotic and weren't even kept in the "better men's" department - just with the regular coats. Now, they are hard to come by and here in Toronto, Stollery's is the only vendor with much higher prices (not much less than the Aquascutum or Burberry equivalents). I have been told that Gloverall stopped supplying to competitors after reaching a deal with Stollery's (although most of the classic menswear stores which would have carried Gloverall, Eaton's included, are now long gone).

Aquascutum has a branch in Boston; perhaps you could try calling them. They are also carried by Ogilvy's in Montreal. You might want to try them after Christmas, as they will likely be on sale. Look at the information regarding Aquascutum men's at the Ogilvy website () to see an example of the Aquascutum duffle in navy. As I mentioned before, I think I would go with the Aquascutum next time as I do appreciate a zipper as well as the toggles!


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## stcolumba (Oct 10, 2006)

Pressfan said:


> Egadfly, I purchased the navy Burberry duffle after Christmas a couple of years ago at a Burberry shop for $399. Given the scarcity of a nice duffle and given that the Gloveralls go for much more than that here in Toronto, I didn't think it was such a bad deal. The tan Burberry duffle was a gift from a relative in the U.K. who had purchased it at an outlet several years earlier, but decided he didn't like it. It was still on the manufacturer hanger complete with hang tags. How could I refuse!
> 
> Given the fact that the famous plaid is used for the lining only, I don't think it falls into the purview of Cristal-swilling hip-hop moguls! You will find that the British makers all line their duffles with their respective house checks; this is probably the only way to differentiate an otherwise classic item.
> 
> ...


Does the bagpipe player still stroll through the store (Olilvy's in Montreal) at noon ever day?


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## egadfly (Nov 10, 2006)

Fyi, for anyone interested in a tan/camel version: Ben Silver has one on sale.

Bad color for me, alas.


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## A Purist (Dec 30, 2003)

You should also add Grenfell into your research www.grenfellgarments.com.


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## smets (Sep 22, 2006)

did you ever decide on one? What was the overall verdict from your inquries?

inquiring minds would like to know......


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## egadfly (Nov 10, 2006)

smets said:


> did you ever decide on one? What was the overall verdict from your inquries?
> 
> inquiring minds would like to know......


Thanks for asking, Smets. In fact, the decision was made for me, as Gloverall/UK was out of the coat I wanted and were vague on when it would be back in stock. Thus I ended up "ordering" it (it's to be my Christmas present) from O'Connells, and feel pretty sure this will work out fine.

If anyone's interested, I'll post my impressions of the coat once I've had a chance to wear it a bit.


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## smets (Sep 22, 2006)

i’d be interested in hearing your thoughts as i’m thinking about purchasing one as well


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## Speas (Mar 11, 2004)

STP has an 80% wool model back in stock at $200. I bought an 80% wool model a while back and like the coat. Look for a discount coupon and you have a good deal.


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