# Bespoke Prince of Wales Check Suit



## pichao (Apr 13, 2008)

I am thinking of making my first bespoke suit. I happen to be extremely fond of the Prince of Wales Check.

From the henry poole homepage www.henrypoole.com I found two nice pieces of fabric.

The first one:

2073: is a fawn prince of wales check 12-13 ounce with a blue overcheck and soft finish

The second one:

2074: is a light grey prince of wales check 12-13 ounce with a red overcheck, and a soft finish

Both are described as suitable for suiting

I have a couple of questions:

I am going to make a bespoke suit in Sweden, and therefore need to get some questions answered.

1: Who is the producer of these two fabrics?

2: What producers make this pattern in similar designs and colours?

3: Can you use this fabric for a whole suit, or is it better for a sports jacket, with separate trousers in another colour?

Hope to hear from you!


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## ChicagoTrad (Feb 19, 2007)

Not sure about the first 2 questions, but for the third question, there is no problem in making it an entire suit. I have several POW check suits in my wardrobe now. One is a more subtle looking BB GF flannel that I wear all the time. Another is a heavy, rather bold white/black POW check by Polo that I wear on weekends in the winter. I will often use the jacket from that suit as a sportcoat. 

It is not a "city" suit, however. I do wear the BB GF to the office regularly. 

FWIW, I think I like the second fabric more.


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## pichao (Apr 13, 2008)

ChicagoTrad said:


> Not sure about the first 2 questions, but for the third question, there is no problem in making it an entire suit. I have several POW check suits in my wardrobe now. One is a more subtle looking BB GF flannel that I wear all the time. Another is a heavy, rather bold white/black POW check by Polo that I wear on weekends in the winter. I will often use the jacket from that suit as a sportcoat.
> 
> It is not a "city" suit, however. I do wear the BB GF to the office regularly.
> 
> FWIW, I think I like the second fabric more.


At first I liked the first one more. But I am starting to change opinion like the second one better and better...


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## CPVS (Jul 17, 2005)

If I were you -- and I had the sort of budget I would like -- I'd get both 

I should add that I have a BB 1818 SB 2B suit of a fabric much like #1, except in stead of being fawn it's a bit darker -- a true brown. I love the fabric and the suit and wear it as much as I can in season. City suit? No, but I like "rus in urbe."


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## Rossini (Oct 7, 2007)

pichao said:


> At first I liked the first one more. But I am starting to change opinion like the second one better and better...


Indeed, the second one - as the bolder choice - grows on you.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

pichao said:


> I am thinking of making my first bespoke suit. I happen to be extremely fond of the Prince of Wales Check.
> 
> From the henry poole homepage www.henrypoole.com I found two nice pieces of fabric.
> 
> ...


1. I am sorry, I don't know.

2. I suspect there are quite a few. The only one I have viewed extensively are those sold by Minnis and Hardy which you can find via Google. They are sellers of cloth rather than weavers, but that seems to be the most common arrangement.

3. You can certainly make a suit from either of these very handsome fabrics. I too am very fond of the POW plaid. I like them both, and if you have to pick one, consider your coloring, physique and the clothes you wish to wear with it. Either fabric would also make a fine jacket. You might wish to consider having it made up as a suit, and selecting a different complimenatry solid color fabric to have made into a pair of odd trousers. You can then also wear the jacket as an odd jacket as well as a suit.

Good luck!


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## LD111134 (Dec 21, 2007)

OP, I like the second plaid more than the second. A suit with that fabric will be "da bomb".



ChicagoTrad said:


> Another is a heavy, rather bold white/black POW check by Polo that I wear on weekends in the winter. I will often use the jacket from that suit as a sportcoat. It is not a "city" suit, however.


I have the same suit, ChicagoTrad (a 3-button single breasted featuring plain front pants with side tabs). I do wear it to my office, but then again my office is business casual so I can pretty wear any kind of tailored clothing that I chose - lucky me. I also wear the jacket as a sport coat. While it is not a traditional "city" suit, I'm not a country guy (a confirmed Wicker Park urbanite :icon_smile_wink, so I wear the full ensemble around town during the week - I actually wore it to the "Mad About Plaid" fundraiser for neurological disorders in combination with a BB check shirt and a Paul Frederick navy wool/cashmere postboy vest.


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## Sir Walter (Jun 23, 2007)

I would have the suit made from the second fabric and a sport coat made from the first, with maybe some odd trousers to work in. Both are handsome fabrics and I am sure the finished product will look sensational. Good Luck!


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## Jim In Sunny So Calif (May 13, 2006)

Sir Walter said:


> I would have the suit made from the second fabric and a sport coat made from the first, with maybe some odd trousers to work in. Both are handsome fabrics and I am sure the finished product will look sensational. Good Luck!


I am sorry that I can't answer the first two questions.

If my budget allowed I would do as Sir Walter suggests plus have the second fabric made as a three piece suit: coat, trousers, and vest (waistcoat).

Cheers, Jim.


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## jamgood (Feb 8, 2006)

You might inquire/enquire of these folks if extant... www.foxflannel.freeserve.co.uk


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## pichao (Apr 13, 2008)

Sir Walter said:


> I would have the suit made from the second fabric and a sport coat made from the first, with maybe some odd trousers to work in. Both are handsome fabrics and I am sure the finished product will look sensational. Good Luck!


I would certainly like that too!

Bot I am not sure I have that amount of money. I am of your opinion, the first one is more for a sports jacket, the second one is better for suiting.
I can wear it in my office environment, which is very casual.

By the way, I have made an enquiry to Henry Poole about these fabrics. Lets see if I get some answers..


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## CPVS (Jul 17, 2005)

jamgood said:


> You might inquire/enquire of these folks if extant... www.foxflannel.freeserve.co.uk


What a fantastic DB. Bespoke, I imagine? And is that actually yours, jamgood?


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

*Very nice!*



jamgood said:


> You might inquire/enquire of these folks if extant...


Very nice indeed!


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## pichao (Apr 13, 2008)

Flanderian said:


> Very nice indeed!


I am of the same opinion. As far as I can se your fabric has both a red and a blue overcheck. Is it so?

Do you know the name of the fabric and the producer?


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## jamgood (Feb 8, 2006)

Not me. It's vintage Fox Flannel. Their basic West Of England flannels are/were 90-95% wool & 5-10% cashmere in a weight within the range of your quest. Check the site.


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## CPVS (Jul 17, 2005)

Where did the photo come from? And who was the brilliant fellow who decided to have this lovely flannel made up into a brilliant DB?


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## jamgood (Feb 8, 2006)

^^ RTW Horse Hockey brand by Ralphe de la Bronx, 1981.

Sum of us are just doomed to off the peg Gehenna.

I've a PRL SB in a similar, but very much darker, grey flannel POW that's about as old.

In the POW sphere I mostly make do with this number by SantAndrea. About a nine ounce worsted tropical more suitable to our regional clime, year round. ( I can't get past the front door > www.st-andrea.it Before the new owners there was a relatively extensive website for curious folk.)








.


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## Mark from Plano (Jan 29, 2007)

I am currently having a POW suit made up in a medium grey with a blue overcheck. Had a first fitting a couple of weeks ago and am scheduled to see the suit again in another couple of weeks (recutting the collar and lapels and making a few other modifications). I'm really looking forward to it. Mine's being made up as a 2B SB PL, with a DB vest. A bit out there perhaps, but it's a fun fabric, no sense in being boring with the design (IMO).


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Mark from Plano said:


> I am currently having a POW suit made up in a medium grey with a blue overcheck. Had a first fitting a couple of weeks ago and am scheduled to see the suit again in another couple of weeks (recutting the collar and lapels and making a few other modifications). I'm really looking forward to it. Mine's being made up as a 2B SB PL, with a DB vest. A bit out there perhaps, but it's a fun fabric, no sense in being boring with the design (IMO).


Sounds very nice! Bespoke? MTM?


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## Mark from Plano (Jan 29, 2007)

Flanderian said:


> Sounds very nice! Bespoke? MTM?


Sort of in-between. Local custom clothier that has a family tailoring business in Hong Kong where all the sewing is done. Design and measurements are all custom (no limitations and not based on a stock pattern). I gave them a legal sized sheet with all of my design specification. We took a stock design for the double breasted vest and modified it by adding lapels and changing the button stance slightly. I wanted a special buttoning in the trousers that I have in some of my higher end RTW and we just too pictures of it and they replicated it perfectly.

At the first fitting, they will modify any changes you need made by sending it back to Hong Kong if necessary, as with mine where the lapel gorge was just too low on the first fitting, so the suit was sent back marked up, additional fabric was ordered and the lapels and collar are being recut and sewn.

But the cutting and sewing is done off-site (in Hong Kong), there is no basted fitting, etc. They will make minor alterations locally, but all major changes go back to Hong Kong.

Nice handwork. Handsewn button holes, hand pic-stitching, hand set sleeves, etc.

Probably 1/2 the price of good bespoke, but not quite the experience either.


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## CPVS (Jul 17, 2005)

Mark, what sort of fabric will this suit be of? Worsted? Flannel? 11oz? 18?


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## pichao (Apr 13, 2008)

jamgood said:


> Not me. It's vintage Fox Flannel. Their basic West Of England flannels are/were 90-95% wool & 5-10% cashmere in a weight within the range of your quest. Check the site.


It is a really nice looking fabric!
I will try to make inquiries at about the range of colours and patterns avalable for prince of wales check at that site too. So far, I have received no answers from Henry Poole...


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## Mark from Plano (Jan 29, 2007)

CPVS said:


> Mark, what sort of fabric will this suit be of? Worsted? Flannel? 11oz? 18?


I live in Texas. It's about a 9oz worsted.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Mark from Plano said:


> Sort of in-between. Local custom clothier that has a family tailoring business in Hong Kong where all the sewing is done. Design and measurements are all custom (no limitations and not based on a stock pattern). I gave them a legal sized sheet with all of my design specification. We took a stock design for the double breasted vest and modified it by adding lapels and changing the button stance slightly. I wanted a special buttoning in the trousers that I have in some of my higher end RTW and we just too pictures of it and they replicated it perfectly.
> 
> At the first fitting, they will modify any changes you need made by sending it back to Hong Kong if necessary, as with mine where the lapel gorge was just too low on the first fitting, so the suit was sent back marked up, additional fabric was ordered and the lapels and collar are being recut and sewn.
> 
> ...


From my limited experience, there are some very skilled craftsmen in Hong Kong, and too many who aren't. The trick is to find some who are, and who know how and are willing to make a suit for *you.* Sounds like you've managed that. Congratualtions!


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## dcdapper (Feb 9, 2008)

jamgood said:


> You might inquire/enquire of these folks if extant...


What a beautiful suit! It's as close to perfect as I've seen in a long time.


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## pichao (Apr 13, 2008)

*Hunt & Winterbottom*

At last I have found who is the producer of the second cloth (2074)

It is Hunt & Winterbottom

I have tried to find their homepage, but without any success. I have not even found an e-mailadress.(does it exist?)

Now I am wondering: Does anybody have any experience with their cloths?

Are they of good, or bad quality?

Can one order the cloth directly from Hunt & Winterbottom?

I would be thankful for any help in this matter :icon_smile:


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## jimbob (Jun 24, 2006)

*POW check*

I was just looking at some POW samples Fri in preparation for the next sale at my favorite store. I was waffling between a SB 3Piece and a DB. The above has convinced me. DB is one of my favorites and the plaid will be very elegant hopefully like the one above.


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## shawsdale (May 3, 2008)

I think this may be the web site for Hunt and Winterbotham in Huddersfield.

https://www.hfw-huddersfield.co.uk/hardyminnis/index.asp

They sell Hardy and Minnis fabrics, but I'm not sure if what they display online includes the item you've pictured.

I have recently ordered a length from them (I live in the UK) and their service was prompt, but do be sure to ask them what their current prices and offers are, based on my transaction the web site may not be accurate in some instances, conversely the people on the phones may not be aware of what's on the web site. For example according to the web site their Rangoon fabric (which I think is being discontinued) is on offer at £16/metre plus VAT, but I needed to point that out when placing my order.

I hope this helps.


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## pichao (Apr 13, 2008)

shawsdale said:


> I think this may be the web site for Hunt and Winterbotham in Huddersfield.
> 
> https://www.hfw-huddersfield.co.uk/hardyminnis/index.asp
> 
> ...


Thank You!

I have also had some difficulties to see if the cloth is displayed is on their homepage. The closest one is the one named 0666 in the JJ Minnis classic bunch. I have written to them and requested a sample. My tailor doesnt have the JJ Minnis bunces, but perhaps it will be possible for me to order the cloth myself, and bring it to her.


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## wiimii (Aug 12, 2008)

pichao said:


> I have also had some difficulties to see if the cloth is displayed is on their homepage.


The Rangoon photos are still available online.

The bunch is in limited stock however.

My experience with HFW / Minnis was very pleasing, and

they were kind enough to send me a dozen cutting samples

per my request with my small order.

Wish this helps.


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## pichao (Apr 13, 2008)

wiimii said:


> The Rangoon photos are still available online.
> 
> The bunch is in limited stock however.
> 
> ...


I finally decided for the brown cloth:

JJ Minnis Classic: 0665 (see photo earlier in this thread)

And yes, the people at JJ Minnis are extremely friendly. First of all, by error they gave me a lower price for the cloth than the list price.(60 pounds instead of 75 pounds a meter). I told them about the error, but they still gave me the lower price they had quoted earlier.

Second, I ordered the cloth around 2 PM one day, and the cloth arrived 24 hours later to my tailor.

In other words: Fast friendly service, to a very competetive price. I will certainly use them again!


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## medwards (Feb 6, 2005)

https://www.hfw-huddersfield.co.uk/hardyminnis/asp/catqu_view.asp?stki=244815737?


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