# Lands' End Luxe, Holiday 1998



## jamgood (Feb 8, 2006)

From LE's 'Beyond Buttondowns' Holiday Catalog 1998

(probably www.williamlockie.com and the same shawl would have been $1000 or more at a speciality store)

The same catalogue featured:
An English made hand knotted fringe scarf, woven cashmere reversing to paisley print silk t'other side for $245.
Engravable engine-turned sterling buckle @ $100 (USA)
American Alligator strap for above @ $199 (USA)
USA made camel hair polo coat @ $695
British knit 80% wool OTC argyle socks $20

A few years prior LE had proffered a genuine (sandwiched layers) English made mackintosh Balmacaan raincoat @ $350. Not to mention a Welsh made (Corgi) cashmere argyle v-neck @ $595.

Times change.


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## smmrfld (May 22, 2007)

*Costco occasionally has the same sweaters for around $100*

High-grade cashmere, quality fully-fashioned construction, and, at least based on my experience, extremely durable with virtually no pilling, etc. Don't know where they source them, but they're a great value. I have no idea how much cashmere goes into each one, but they are substantially heavier than most.


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## Leather man (Mar 11, 2007)

Pity what happened to Landsend - when I first shopped with them stuff was great quality and you paid for it but it was worth the money. Now LE is highly variable to say the least and I for one don't bother with them anymore

Weren't they bought out some years ago by a big chain store - and so went the way of all large groups - downmarket?


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## Ron_A (Jun 5, 2007)

Thanks for posting. I remember receiving the "Beyond Buttondowns" catalogues. Times do change. In the current environment, I'm not sure that Lands' End could make a go of it selling that kind of merchandise -- they're not Ben Silver. LE still has some decent, inexpensive stuff that is a relative value (and they seem to offer free shipping at all times nowadays). But, it is what it is -- mostly cheaper quality stuff made in China (or elsewhere overseas) and priced accordingly.


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## JDC (Dec 2, 2006)

Lands' End was bought by Sears in 2002. Quality has headed south ever since.


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## C. Sharp (Dec 18, 2008)

They use to carry the normal stuff everyone could afford like cotton t-necks but they also carried special items that became must haves for me. I bought my first pair of moleskin trousers, my first heavyweight Viyella and my first and only handknit Aryan from them. The sweater came with a card signed by the knitter. The catalog did a good job of salesmanship saying why those items were great and cost more then the normal items in the catalog. It was really seductive to a young person just learning about menswear.


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## The Louche (Jan 30, 2008)

I never knew they were that tony. Always associated them with decent quality, highly affordable stuff.


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

Ron_A said:


> Thanks for posting. I remember receiving the "Beyond Buttondowns" catalogues. Times do change. In the current environment, I'm not sure that Lands' End could make a go of it selling that kind of merchandise -- they're not Ben Silver. LE still has some decent, inexpensive stuff that is a relative value (and they seem to offer free shipping at all times nowadays). But, it is what it is --* mostly cheaper quality stuff made in China *(or elsewhere overseas) and priced accordingly.


Just curious: why is Made In China almost always thought to be a sign of inferior quality? Almost everything I buy is stickered China (like I have a choice), but I'm seldom displeased. When I was a kid Japan was looked down upon in this same manner (back then it was tagged Made In Occupied Japan). But look how their stuff's turned out.
​


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## Ron_A (Jun 5, 2007)

Peak and Pine said:


> Just curious: *why is Made In China almost always thought to be a sign of inferior quality?* Almost everything I buy is stickered China (like I have a choice), but I'm seldom displeased. When I was a kid Japan was looked down upon in this same manner (back then it was tagged Made In Occupied Japan). But look how their stuff's turned out.​


I don't mean for this thread to evolve into a discussion that belongs on the Interchange (a similar discussion did end up there, if I'm not mistaken). But, in my experience, the quality of Chinese goods has been inferior to that of US-made goods. In the current environment, my perception is that Made in the USA goods -- and sweaters, Barbours and tweed coats, etc., that actually are made in places like the UK and Ireland -- are superior to goods made in China. For instance, I have shoes from Lands' End and shoes from Alden and Allen-Edmonds, and there is no comparison.

I personally am in favor of free trade -- all things being equal, I would be happy to buy Chinese-made goods if the quality was there. In my experience, though, it isn't.
​


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## dcjacobson (Jun 25, 2007)

> I personally am in favor of free trade -- all things being equal, I would be happy to buy Chinese-made goods if the quality was there. In my experience, though, it isn't.


Yes, but I wouldn't be so quick to blame the Chinese. They will happily make what you want, at whatever level of quality level you'd like, as long as you're willing to pay for it. (Did you see the article in the WSJ about the Chinese suits Warren Buffet has been buying?)

They are no different from any other manufacturer in that respect--they have to satisfy their customers. If LE wasn't getting what it wanted, they can direct their business to any number of other fabricators. It is the customer who determines what is made.

Good luck,
Don


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

Peak and Pine said:


> Just curious: why is Made In China almost always thought to be a sign of inferior quality? Almost everything I buy is stickered China (like I have a choice), but I'm seldom displeased. When I was a kid Japan was looked down upon in this same manner (back then it was tagged Made In Occupied Japan). But look how their stuff's turned out.
> ​


Though it may not be obvious, the higher quality of goods from the US over Chinese-made goods has to do with the cost of labor, though the relationship is one of correlation and not causation. If your goal is to make a high-quality product, you generally aren't as concerned about relatively high labor costs--you're willing to pay what's necessary to get skilled craftsmen. And you also use higher quality materials, and you use construction methods that are more labor-intensive and expensive. All these enable you to produce a better quality product.

Conversely, if your main goal is to produce inexpensive goods, you produce them where labor is inexpensive. And you use cheaper materials, and use construction methods that are faster and cheaper. And the net result of all of this is that you get goods of lower quality.

By the way: *I want that LE shawl cardigan.* Gotta figure out how to search for that on Ebay.


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

Thank you Ron, DC and Orgetorix for your insights. Now back to our regularly scheduled LE circa '98 discussion.​


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

I have a thrifted older LE cashmere sweater that was made in Scotland. The quality seems quite good on it. I've always wondered who made their Scottish cashmere sweaters.

That shawl collar cardigan would be a wonderful thing to have.


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## katon (Dec 25, 2006)

Would anyone else happen to have any vintage Lands' End catalog scans?


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## Mr. Mac (Mar 14, 2008)

C. Sharp said:


> The catalog did a good job of salesmanship saying why those items were great and cost more then the normal items in the catalog. It was really seductive to a young person just learning about menswear.


No kidding. I really wish I could look forward to getting catalogs these days. There's nothing better than relaxing in an old arm charm with the TV on, flipping through a great spring or fall menswear catalog. Nowadays it's the same old crap from season to season. Clothing is one of the few luxuries I can afford. Without a good catalog, there's just not the same allure.


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## Saltydog (Nov 3, 2007)

Mr. Mac said:


> No kidding. I really wish I could look forward to getting catalogs these days. There's nothing better than relaxing in an old arm charm with the TV on, flipping through a great spring or fall menswear catalog. Nowadays it's the same old crap from season to season. Clothing is one of the few luxuries I can afford. Without a good catalog, there's just not the same allure.


I agree totally. I predicted this when Sears bought them out and I'm sorry I was right. So many big companies think they have to cut quality and appeal to the lowest common denominator. It's just another product...not a labor of love.


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## katon (Dec 25, 2006)

A little hyperbole circa 1987.


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

I think they've gone from solid, corn-fed midrange stuff, some of it highly likeable, to highly unlikeable imitation stuff. The Chinese are perfectly capable of superb craftsmanship, but their American customers, such as LE or Wal-Mart, seek something else.


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## katon (Dec 25, 2006)

katon said:


> Would anyone else happen to have any vintage Lands' End catalog scans?


A few old ones to get things started.









(1975)

(1976)

Woolrich is often an unsung hero of this era. Lands' End and L.L. Bean both sourced a bunch of stuff from them. The L.L. Bean Baxter State Parka and it's Lands' End knock-off (the Great Scot Parka) were both sourced from Woolrich, for instance.

















(1978)









(1979)

You can still get Stubbies today. Maybe an alternative for the Patagonia Stand-Up shorts crowd? (Another item carried by both L.L. Bean and Lands' End back in the day, I might add.) I'm not sure about the denim comment... I thought they were made out of drill cloth. Anyone know if they're still made in Australia?

































(1981)

















(1983)



Saltydog said:


> Mr. Mac said:
> 
> 
> > No kidding. I really wish I could look forward to getting catalogs these days. There's nothing better than relaxing in an old arm charm with the TV on, flipping through a great spring or fall menswear catalog. Nowadays it's the same old crap from season to season. Clothing is one of the few luxuries I can afford. Without a good catalog, there's just not the same allure.
> ...


Circa 1996:










Honestly, given the state of Lands' End now, I don't think I'd really mind it if they sold Shetlands made in Brooklyn. 

Still, it's pretty impressive that they were able to hold the line all the way through the 1990s... I wonder what finally tipped the scales? 1998 seemed to be the pivotal year... there was a huge Lands' End stock slump for some reason, and Michael Smith was pressured into resigning as CEO. Under David Dyer things didn't really seem to get any better, and then Sears happened in 2002. I'd be interested in hearing more about the background behind the Sears buyout... Did Lands' End just never recover from William End? It seems like Mr. Smith spent most of his tenure trying to get rid of the spin-off catalogs Lands' End picked up under End's tenure... (Montbell America, The Territory Ahead, Willis & Geiger... others?)

**Edit:* "Link added by VigLink?"


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## Epaminondas (Oct 19, 2009)

katon said:


> Still, it's pretty impressive that they were able to hold the line all the way through the 1990s... I wonder what finally tipped the scales? 1998 seemed to be the pivotal year... there was a huge Lands' End stock slump for some reason, and Michael Smith was pressured into resigning as CEO. Under David Dyer things didn't really seem to get any better, and then Sears happened in 2002. I'd be interested in hearing more about the background behind the Sears buyout... Did Lands' End just never recover from William End? It seems like Mr. Smith spent most of his tenure trying to get rid of the spin-off catalogs Lands' End picked up under End's tenure... (Montbell America, The Territory Ahead, Willis & Geiger... others?)


So sad and such nostaligic images. Lands' End of ffered some really great merchandise in its time. My uncle gave me the first LE catalog I ever saw in 1982. Like LL bean , it's gone the way of cheap imports. I remember buying made in USA OCBDs in blue, brick, green, and grey university stripes (among various solid colors) for $19.00 and made in Scotland Shetland sweaters (with knit in saddle shoulders) to match for $19.95 in 1985, my senior year of High School. I always favored LE over LL Bean well into the nineties. IPO wounded LE in 1986 - Sears acquisiton in 2002 pretty much killed it IMHO.


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## Saltydog (Nov 3, 2007)

I had at least a 15 year collection of Lands' End catalogues (they used to have great articles in them from readers, etc., as well as great depictions, both visually and with great copy, of their merchandise. If you liked classic menswear you looked forward to the catalogue as much as your favorite magazine. I also had multi-year collections of a number of other magazines as well. We bought a new house in 2000 and my wife insisted I get rid of all the old magazines and catalogues lest we clutter up our new place. (I had a lot of older Brooks Brothers and LL Bean catalogues as well). Not knowing what else to do with them and having an overwhelming job of packing to do in a short time, I just threw them all away. I knew I would one day regret it. Had I known Sears was going to buy out Lands' End, I would at least kept a sampling from over the years to reflect on from time to time. I had first hand knowledge of what happens when a large corporation takes over a smaller more sharply focused company and that the end of a great company was in the offing. I sure wish I had kept them now to show those forum members who didn't get to experience their heyday. Their Hyde Park ads alone would set a Trad's mouth watering. Even more, I wish they had stayed the Lands' End of old. But, as has been often said, the one thing we can be sure of is change. If only we could predict the direction it was going to take we would know what to hold onto. 

Perhaps there is someone else out there with a collection like I used to have. It would make for some interesting pics. Those were some of the greatest catalogues of all time.


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## katon (Dec 25, 2006)

katon said:


> Maybe an alternative for the Patagonia Stand-Up shorts crowd? (Another item carried by both L.L. Bean and Lands' End back in the day, I might add.)


Sperry Topsiders and Patagonia shorts from Lands' End in 1981:










The L.L. Bean version:










I think this also is a pretty good example of the difference in their advertising styles. Lands' End would fill a page trying to convince you to get a pair of socks; L.L. Bean would copy the catalog entry.


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## WouldaShoulda (Aug 5, 2009)

Every girl in my HS yearbook looks like this!!

BOING!!


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## Saltydog (Nov 3, 2007)

^^^
Why, you're just a whipper snapper then! And here I had you pegged for a full growed man.


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## hockeyinsider (May 8, 2006)

FrankDC said:


> Lands' End was bought by Sears in 2002. Quality has headed south ever since.


Lands' End was really nice until 2005 or 2006, when things noticeably changed. The menswear was downsized considerably -- especially dress clothing (anyone remember the custom shirts?) -- and then made a resurgence about 18 months ago. The catalogue offering are now more J. Crew-inspired, though the size selection is down considerably (it's next to impossible to find any odd jackets or suits in a short size now).

There are a few nice autumn offerings, or at least they look nice from the catalogue and website. The new arrivals section of the Lands' End website has a lot of Donegal offerings, but I am disappointed to see that most of them are at least 20% nylon. This baffles me. I also noticed the Portuguese Flannels are back (they used to be a mainstay):

But I do agree that the higher end seasonal Lands' End offerings have declined.


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## hockeyinsider (May 8, 2006)

Ron_A said:


> I don't mean for this thread to evolve into a discussion that belongs on the Interchange (a similar discussion did end up there, if I'm not mistaken). But, in my experience, the quality of Chinese goods has been inferior to that of US-made goods. In the current environment, my perception is that Made in the USA goods -- and sweaters, Barbours and tweed coats, etc., that actually are made in places like the UK and Ireland -- are superior to goods made in China. For instance, I have shoes from Lands' End and shoes from Alden and Allen-Edmonds, and there is no comparison.
> 
> I personally am in favor of free trade -- all things being equal, I would be happy to buy Chinese-made goods if the quality was there. In my experience, though, it isn't.
> ​


Not all of Lands' End dry goods are made in China now. In fact, China is proving to be rather expensive now for clothing, as the quality has increased. Many lower end clothing companies are moving to other southeast Asian countries, where production costs are even cheaper than China.


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## katon (Dec 25, 2006)

Rugby shirts and hiking shorts, courtesy of 1981:


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## Tilton (Nov 27, 2011)

My father was die-hard LE for as long as I can recall. I remember being excited that my school uniforms could be purchased through LE because it meant I could dress like him. Now, he complains constantly about how it isn't what it used to be and until now, I presumed that he was just being crotchety and surly. However, that hasn't changed his allegiance: about a week after that catalogue comes, he'll be on the phone in his study, ordering something he has just remembered needs replacing.


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## andy b. (Mar 18, 2010)

I realize this is a zombie thread, but oh well.
Yes, I remember as a kid in the 80s looking forward to the LE catalogs. When it started getting close to Christmas my parents would have all kinds of things marked off, and then my siblings and I would get our turn to fold over page corners and circle things on our Christmas wish lists. Sadly, now when the occasional LE catalog shows up at my house it goes right into the recycling bin. There is a thread on here I started looking for the "ultimate Rugby shirt", and LE definitely is no longer it. Sad.

Andy B.


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## halbydurzell (Aug 19, 2012)

This stuff looks great and, yes, you wouldn't be able to keep Brooklyn made shetland sweaters in stock for more than 20 minutes these days. Also, the LE font is killing me:


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## leisureclass (Jan 31, 2011)

^ Those short sleeve rubgys are just wrong. Love the shorts though, I would wear those all the time in the summer.


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## Hobson (Mar 13, 2007)

I actually bought, new, the "English made hand knotted fringe scarf, woven cashmere reversing to paisley print silk t'other side for $245." referred to by jamgood. Probably one of the nicest examples I've ever seen and manufactured to a standard that is virtually unknown today. As I often tell my students, you don't know what quality is, you haven't been exposed to it. Lands End may only have carried such items at Christmas, but it certainly made their Christmas catalog something to look forward to.


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