# Can Barbour coats be tailored?



## JMH (May 2, 2006)

I'm tall and thin. Combining proper chest size, sleeve length and body length on any off-the-rack garment is a challenge. Sometimes, where available, a "long" size does it; sometimes not. I've mostly resorted to custom tailored (bespoke) shirts and clothing.

In purchasing a Barbour Border coat, I had to go a larger size than I would otherwise wear to get the shoulders and sleeve length right.

This leaves me, though, with way too much coat in the body, particularly at the waist.

Does anyone on the forum have experience with altering Barbour coats -- having them tailored? i.e., Can it be done? With a skilled tailor on the case, can you get a good result?

Thanks for your guidance on this.


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## deep_purple (Jan 12, 2009)

I am also very curious about this. It would be great to have a Barbour jacket that fit me...


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## 11211 (Apr 17, 2008)

I asked this question in the Madison Avenue shop a couple years ago and was told no.


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## Franko (Nov 11, 2007)

You can probably do anything you want in tailoring, there's often a way around most problems.

The foremost problem though is with Barbours' rules, if you alter or amend any of their coats the factory will not accept them for refurbisment (mainly re-waxing) if you should want to use their service in a few years time.

I had a coat rejected because I had put patches on the elbows when the material became torn and thin, they take no prisoners.

F.


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## 11hr (Jul 26, 2006)

I was also told "no". The issue concerned the lack of a central seam in the back of my Beaufort; material would have to be removed from the sides, where there is a lot going on (game pockets in rear, close to bellows pockets in front.


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## paper clip (May 15, 2006)

I have the same issue (6' 3", 41 long, 36" arms) and have never bought a Barbour as a result.

You can order custom stuff through Filson and they also have some of their coats that you can order long and extra long.



I like their cover cloth weekender as a Border analog for $255.00:



Note: I have not bought one of these, but this is the route I'd go. I also like the Filson for these coats and most of their outerwear being made in USA and their lifetime guarantee.


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## clausc (Jan 3, 2008)

Have you tried their contemporary line / slim-cut jackets? Every season they add new slim models or adapt the old ones.

e.g the 
Contemporary Beaufort


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## Zingari (Jul 9, 2007)

It may be worth asking Barbour UK as they will 'adjust' certain parts at the factory. The wax coats do tend to be shorter in the arms than their Field coats.

I returned my Beaufort to the factory several years ago for reproofing and had some binding on the cuffs - it may be possible to have the cuffs extended by pieceing in the material as the company will patch up ripped coats. You can only ask.


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## anglophile23 (Jan 25, 2007)

Aren't barbour jackets supposed to a big so that can be worn over tweed jackets?


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## pt4u67 (Apr 27, 2006)

from the Barbour website. The first Q&A; I assume alterations refers to sleeves and perhaps length.


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## Franko (Nov 11, 2007)

*If it's not just a fashion thing, but for real use.*



anglophile23 said:


> Aren't barbour jackets supposed to a big so that can be worn over tweed jackets?


This is a great point that evaded me when I read the original post, even if not used for tweed jackets, I always thought it a better idea to have spare room under outdoor coats such as these, if only to accomodate other layers under the coat, roll neck jumpers as well as jackets.

The Border is a lightweight coat, not much more than a shell really, forget the synthetic liner sweat creating option.

F.


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## gardener (Feb 2, 2009)

I have a similar question about Barbour sizing. I know that the _Heritage _range is quite generous in size, in fact a whole size larger than "normal" for me. Though, I would like to know how the _Contemporary _range is in sizing. More specifically, I'm into buying the new _Contemporary Leightweight Liddesdale _jacket, and I'm not sure what size to choose. Since I'm 5'10 and rather thin built, thinner than the average, I usually go for size Small (or 34-36) normally, and X-Small (30-32) in Barbour classic (like the Beaufort jacket). Also, as the youngster I am, I prefer fitted style garments.

Do you have any recommendation for me? Thanks.


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## Loose On The Lead (Dec 28, 2007)

paper clip said:


> I have the same issue (6' 3", 41 long, 36" arms) and have never bought a Barbour as a result.
> 
> You can order custom stuff through Filson and they also have some of their coats that you can order long and extra long.
> 
> ...


I don't understand these "oil finish" coats. Filson says, "Entire coat lined with 4 oz. cotton to prevent Oil Finish Cover Cloth from staining your clothes." Okay...so the manufacturer states that the finish will stain other clothing...which in turn means you can't safely store these things next to other garments. You also can't throw them over your shoulder, and you can't sit down in them and lean back against any sort of fabric that you wouldn't want to stain. Seems like that all adds up to this Filson coat being an outdoorsy thing only. Right? And the coat should probably be stored in its own hanging canvas bag.


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## Delmarco (Jun 1, 2008)

Barbour jackets can be tailored. It won't be cheap and 99% of your local tailors won't touch the work (from my NYC experiences).

You have to go to either someone who has worked on Barbour Jackets before and KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING.

Or you can take the chance with someone who has never seen a Barbour coat before and are willing to try because they "don't see why not".

Both situations will likely cost you anywhere between $50 and $100+ in work.

I won't recommend that you try to budget this since a crappy $50 job will cost you a $379/$399 jacket if done poorly. So go to the best tailor you can find with in your budget. Also one that will not try to rip you off since having a Barbour coat may mean to them you are a walking pay day _(recalls to mind my first BMW oil change experience years ago when the oil change guy wanted $200 more than my girl friend's Honda Accord because the BMW was an Imported Car. I refused saying the Accord was also imported and my car being a BMW used the same laws of physics to operate. It wasn't some magical unicorn that required extraterrestrial attention.)
_

Like the Beaufort the Bedale Jackets can be tailored or rather would be easier to tailor. They have riding vent flaps and armpit vent holes adjacent to the flank seams. So you can't really tackle a width issue there unless you want to delete those features (or have them oddly shifted about).

I have seen a few used tailored Bedale Jackets on eBay and auctions where the center spine (collar to hem) had a new seam reflecting that the jacket was taken in there. This looked quite good BUT the side effect was in interior labels were deleted for the tailoring. As shown below the Bedale's interior labels are in the center.

The other type of tailoring was two hem lines (also collar to hem) opposite the spine about 10 inches apart. This also looked good and the interior lining labels were spared BUT the riding vent flaps were pulled in towards the center and looked awfully narrow and odd.

I think the creation of a new center back hem on a Bedale and Beaufort can be done to look decent (you most likely can't take more than 3 inches off before it looks odd) but you need to make sure the tailor respects the location of the inside center brand labels and don't toss them out or puts them back in place when done with the work. Also for the Beaufort the game pocket will have to be properly tackled.

The sleeves can't be made longer but you can shorten them (this I've seen done many times). 
Also keep in mind that Barbour jackets tend to stretch out after the first few weeks of wear. The raglan sleeves tend to stretch out an inch or more with wear.



11hr said:


> I was also told "no". The issue concerned the lack of a central seam in the back of my Beaufort; material would have to be removed from the sides, where there is a lot going on (game pockets in rear, close to bellows pockets in front.


From 2009 to Winter 2014 it pains me to Barbour now makes 100 contemporary jackets and products for every one Bedale or Beaufort or Border jacket they make a season. Most of this contemporary jackets are factory made in E.Europe, India, Asia. As a result the new jacket lack the original hand made tailored quality.

But yeah you can find slimmer cuts in something like a Bedale SL or a Dept. B jacket. These will cost you more money than the originals though as they can easily cost above $500.



clausc said:


> Have you tried their contemporary line / slim-cut jackets? Every season they add new slim models or adapt the old ones.
> 
> e.g the
> Contemporary Beaufort


 The Barbour wax never stained my clothes and I've worn 'out' dozens of Bedales and Beauforts since 1998. In fact the wax finish has greatly improved in the last years with the Sylkoil process that they use which makes the wax finish more durable for daily wear requiring less treatment and maintenance than the older wax coats.



Loose On The Lead said:


> I don't understand these "oil finish" coats. Filson says, "Entire coat lined with 4 oz. cotton to prevent Oil Finish Cover Cloth from staining your clothes." Okay...so the manufacturer states that the finish will stain other clothing...which in turn means you can't safely store these things next to other garments. You also can't throw them over your shoulder, and you can't sit down in them and lean back against any sort of fabric that you wouldn't want to stain. Seems like that all adds up to this Filson coat being an outdoorsy thing only. Right? And the coat should probably be stored in its own hanging canvas bag.


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## Delmarco (Jun 1, 2008)

Found the picture of the Classic Bedale Jacket that was tailored in the back with three new seams down the back. From the pictures below you can see the difficulties the Tailor encountered to get the width narrowed. 

The result is the inner lining is cinched in around the interior labels and the Bedale vent flaps are pulled in to the center spine and looks off. With respect to the Tailor I think this job could have been much better but it also could have been much worse.


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

Its like an actress has unnecessary plastic surgery and wakes up with tiny scar lines that never go away.


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## Brio1 (May 13, 2010)

Delmarco said:


> Barbour jackets can be tailored. It won't be cheap and 99% of your local tailors won't touch the work (from my NYC experiences).
> 
> You have to go to either someone who has worked on Barbour Jackets before and KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING.
> 
> ...


It was my understanding that Sylkoil is in fact an oil and not a wax like the Thornproof wax. Is this correct? Thanks in advance ...


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## catside (Oct 7, 2010)

anglophile23 said:


> Aren't barbour jackets supposed to a big so that can be worn over tweed jackets?


That has always been my information, too. My Beaufort is used as such, I have a smaller size Bedale that I use alone or with a fleece jacket


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## goonerk (Feb 20, 2013)

Why not just purchase a Belstaff jacket rather than deface a Barbour coat like that? 

The ubiquity of these coats now would only make those adjustments look even more bizarre.


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## Bjorn (May 2, 2010)

Deader thread...


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## Delmarco (Jun 1, 2008)

Brio1 said:


> It was my understanding that Sylkoil is in fact an oil and not a wax like the Thornproof wax. Is this correct? Thanks in advance ...


I've always believed it to be a wax and it is a wax according to Barbour. See below:

What is sylkoil as it relates to Barbour clothing? Is it an oil, wax or simply a colour?

Sylkoil wax is traditional unshorn wax. The cotton comes straight from the loom and is dyed and waxed. The natural imperfections of weave are reflected in the rich variations of colour and finish. This wax is smooth featuring a soft matte texture providing the wearer with more flex. Sylkoil has a drier handle than Thornproof wax and is available in 3 different weights.


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## catside (Oct 7, 2010)

My slykoil Beaufort is softer than my old Bedale, and my daughter's slykoil jacket (name?) is even softer. Hers is like it has no wax, mine still feels like waxed.


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## red_shift (Aug 8, 2013)

My understanding is that you can have alterations done directly through a Barbour or Orvis store and that the most common request is lengthening the sleeves for about $50. I'm hesitant to buy a Beaufort for this very fact; it makes an already expensive purchase even more costly.

I did own a used Liddsdale jacket, basically a poly-shell number, that I quite liked but it was roomy. The Medium fit in the 44-46 chest range but the sleeves were the correct length for me, I generally wear a 39-40R. I have heard that the Beaufort and Bedale sleeves are notoriously short though.


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## SG_67 (Mar 22, 2014)

^ it's only short is you have long arms..;-)

I've never understood why people want to get the jackets tailored beyond the sleeve. Barbour jackets (at least the Classic models) are meant to be worn over layers of clothing or at least provide room for movement. There are plenty of jackets out there if you want a tight fit.


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## Brio1 (May 13, 2010)

Delmarco said:


> I've always believed it to be a wax and it is a wax according to Barbour. See below:
> 
> What is sylkoil as it relates to Barbour clothing? Is it an oil, wax or simply a colour?
> 
> Sylkoil wax is traditional unshorn wax. The cotton comes straight from the loom and is dyed and waxed. The natural imperfections of weave are reflected in the rich variations of colour and finish. This wax is smooth featuring a soft matte texture providing the wearer with more flex. Sylkoil has a drier handle than Thornproof wax and is available in 3 different weights.


Ah , thank you.


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## Brio1 (May 13, 2010)

catside said:


> My slykoil Beaufort is softer than my old Bedale, and my daughter's slykoil jacket (name?) is even softer. Hers is like it has no wax, mine still feels like waxed.


Yes, my classic slykoil Beaufort feels softer than my Thornproof sage Beaufort .


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## Delmarco (Jun 1, 2008)

Brio1 said:


> Yes, my classic slykoil Beaufort feels softer than my Thornproof sage Beaufort .


I always feel that the Sylkoil Wax is a "more" synthetic factory applied wax compared to the original '"organic" hand applied Thornproof. Slykoil is perfect and always seems to be evenly applied through out the jacket and is a dry-looking, odorless, softer, more flexible/pliable wax.

I like Sylkoil for function but the original Thornproof "looked" and smelled much better.

The main disadvantage of the Thornproof was the maintenance and cost of reapplying it annually. For me I never reapplied Thornproof on any of my early Barbours since I primarily worn them in and around New York City no more than 2 to 4 months out of the year (October/November and March/April). As a result I've watched the Thornproof dry out on my jackets and leave behind a nice vintage olive green hue. I know I'm wrong but I don't think I will ever re-wax those coats as a result.

The Sylkoil to me doesn't seem to age the same way. It's a durable finish that actually last much longer so I can't say I've seen or worn a Sylkoil Barbour that was completely dried out and aged.

At the end of the day if I was to choose I would say: Sylkoil for function, Thornproof for looks.


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## Brio1 (May 13, 2010)

^

Thanks, Mr. Delmarco. I going to recommend to J. Barbour and Sons that they bring you on board as an ambassador for the company.  :cool2:


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## Delmarco (Jun 1, 2008)

Brio1 said:


> ^
> 
> Thanks, Mr. Delmarco. I going to recommend to J. Barbour and Sons that they bring you on board as an ambassador for the company.  :cool2:


Thanks. lol.

*One more note about the tailoring in regards to sleeve 'lengthening':
*I found some pictures of how the tailoring work looks (it ain't pretty) with a fresh coat of the thornproof applied to an old A100 Bedale. I left the pictures purposely big so you can see the detail. My apologies to all my dial up modem and 2G friends.

Sleeves were lengthened to two extra inches ($75) and new storm cuffs ($60) and wrist gaiters replaced the old worn ones. Jacket was rewaxed ($35).

So you are looking at $75 + $60 + $35 = $170 worth of work. Tack on an extra $30 for the shipping. That is $200 for the jacket you get back below.

The sleeve job is a bit of a Frankenstein outcome. The new stitching are visible and there is a slight color difference in the new fabric and old one. Similar to when you repaint one car door and don't fade the paint across the side of the car. That car door will always stand out in the right lighting.

How it looks from inside

You get a business card with your tailor's name written on it. Your coat will ship back with the job number and date tag as well.

You will get a nice clothing bag to keep the newly waxed and tailored jacket in. Nice touch.


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## Brio1 (May 13, 2010)

My Beaufort jackets may be a little short on my slim frame as I'm 6' 4" with a 34/35 inch inseam. But I'm not sure if it would be worth it to have the sleeves lengthened @ $75 - maybe I will give it consideration when it is time to have the jacket(s) waxed. The Barbour store in Georgetown offered free waxing two years ago. (I don't know what to expect with regard to the quality of the waxing in a Barbour store.)

Thanks again for your report , Delmarco.


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