# Quantum of Solace clothing review



## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

I saw the film on Friday night. The simplicity of Bond's wardrobe really reminded me of Connery's clothes. All the Tom Ford suits seem to be of the same cut, 3 button roll to 2, side vents, ticket pocket, roped sleevehead, flat front cuffed trousers. The trousers all have side tabs, worn without a belt. I thought the cut was very good for Craig and suits him much better than the Brioni suits. All the formal shirts are white with French cuffs. Apart from the first suit he wears, all the others are worn with a white, TV-folded pocket square. He wore black Church's perforated captoe oxford shoes with all his suits. He starts off the film in a Navy Blue with blue pinstripe suit. I can't recall the tie, but it was soon discarded. He started off every suit wearing a tie, and most of the time discards them. But when he takes off his ties it makes sense. Throughout the rest of the film he wears either black or dark grey suits. With the black suit he wears a black with white pin-dot tie and with the grey he wears a black and white checker tie. The black suit is worn on two occasions. On the first in London, a navy blue or charcoal grey would have been better. But he later wears it to an evening party with what seemed to be a blue with white pin-dot tie. It seemed appropriate at the party.
The shawl lapel dinner jacket was impressive. It was clearly modeled after the one from Dr. No: it had turn-back cuffs! The lapels were wider and more in proportion than the narrow ones in Dr. No. This is the first time James Bond wore a diamond-ended bow-tie. It was hard to tell, but I believe he wore a cummerbund this time.
I'll have to check back on the casual wear, but I quite liked most of it. He wore a black cardigan with aviator sunglasses that made him look just like Steve McQueen.
Thankfully, there was much more suit screen-time than in Casino Royale. And the Tom Ford suits looked much more natural on Daniel Craig than Brioni. And the suits weren't all too fashion forward. They didn't button too high and the trouser rise wasn't too low. My only complaint is the black suit. But except for the first suit, just about everything else he wore was black and white. I like the idea of bringing Bond back to a much more neutral and minimal wardrobe. So what are everyone else's thoughts on it?


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## DorianGrey (Jul 6, 2007)

I too liked his wardrobe alot. I thought the Tom Ford suits looked great - along with the shirts and ties. But it was not just him, I thought just about all of the people in the film were dressed well. I loved the conservative well made suit and tie combo of the older government official that "M" has a sit down conversation with (he wore a beautiful well made navy striped suit with a navy Saville Row dotted tie).

There were a couple of things I did not like in the film though. I did not particularly care for the black 600m Omega Planet Ocean. I thought the watch looked big, bulky, and out of place with the elegant suits. I much preferred the blue faced Omega SMP 300m worn in the previous films - the watch I am wearing right now  

Also the main villan - I forget his name - wore an absolutely horrible pocket square in one of the scenes. I have never seen anyone show that much silk hanging out of a pocket in my life. Now I know why.


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## AdamInSF (May 14, 2008)

DorianGrey said:


> ...
> Also the main villan - I forget his name - wore an absolutely horrible pocket square in one of the scenes. I have never seen anyone show that much silk hanging out of a pocket in my life. Now I know why.


Absolutely! His ummm "generous" pocket square toward the end of the film was for me the most memorable sartorial moment, although Craig looked great throughout.


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## Mr. Knightly (Sep 1, 2005)

Clothing is language. The giant pocket square said, "I'm eccentric, pretentious, and continental."


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## AMVanquish (May 24, 2005)

His tuxedo shirt had very narrow pleats, maybe 1/4 inch. Personally, I prefer pique. Brosnan's from his second and third movies were the best, in my opinion.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

"3 button roll to 2"

Did I miss something? They all looked like true two buttons to me.

(I'm also wondering where his waistcoat disappeared to between _Casino Royale_ and the beginning of this film.)


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## mysharona (Nov 4, 2008)

Jovan said:


> "3 button roll to 2"
> 
> Did I miss something? They all looked like true two buttons to me.
> 
> (I'm also wondering where his waistcoat disappeared to between _Casino Royale_ and the beginning of this film.)


I could have sworn that they were 2 button myself. A 2 button suit better fits Craig's frame, and Tom Ford knows that. With such an obvious showcase for his clothing, 2 button would have been the obvious choice. I could be wrong, but I payed pretty close attention.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Three roll two has much the same effect as far as I can see. His linen jacket in the last movie (spotted only for a second) had this fastening.


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

Jovan said:


> "3 button roll to 2"
> 
> Did I miss something? They all looked like true two buttons to me.
> 
> (I'm also wondering where his waistcoat disappeared to between _Casino Royale_ and the beginning of this film.)


Here's a link to press shot of him in the black suit he wore: https://media.movieweb.com/galleries/4335/3073/hi/_I8G0101.jpg
You can clearly see the top buttonhole in the lapel. In a 3 roll to 2 it's supposed to look like a two button. I also noticed the third buttonhole in the grey suit:


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## Cabbage (Oct 25, 2008)

The shirt collar was too pointed and not spread enough. Looked like some cheesy Calvin Klein or Hugo Boss or something (I know it wasn't). 

And those sunglasses with the gold rim were shaped all wrong. Too small for his face and too garish.

That black t-shirt with the the khaki-colored pants when he's in Haiti also looked like $hit.


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## Cabbage (Oct 25, 2008)

Look at this puny tie knot and pathetic collar.


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

Cabbage said:


> Look at this puny tie knot and pathetic collar.


I think that's a wonderful tie knot. The punier the better. But the tie is too long. And I think the collar works for his face. And I really liked the sunglasses.

But another clear shot of the *3 roll 2* button stance. My original statement now can't be refuted!


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## AvariceBespoke (Jan 7, 2007)

Matt S said:


> I think that's a wonderful tie knot. The punier the better. But the tie is too long. And I think the collar works for his face. And I really liked the sunglasses.
> 
> But another clear shot of the *3 roll 2* button stance. My original statement now can't be refuted!


why use this technique as opposed to two buttons?


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

I'll be damned, they _are_ all three roll two jackets. Why did I not notice this?

No more reason than having cuff buttons, ties, or shirt collars. It looks nice is all. Many waistcoats have a similar thing where the bottom button and buttonhole curve away with the points -- purely decorative.


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## Bobert (Oct 1, 2007)

Mr. Knightly said:


> Clothing is language. The giant pocket square said, "I'm eccentric, pretentious, and continental."


I know, aren't they wonderful?

Also, I loved the wardrobe.


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## Roikins (Mar 22, 2007)

Here's a better shot of his dinner jacket and the shirt:



And some other suit photos:


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## rip (Jul 13, 2005)

Jovan said:


> I'll be damned, they _are_ all three roll two jackets. Why did I not notice this?
> 
> No more reason than having cuff buttons, ties, or shirt collars. It looks nice is all. Many waistcoats have a similar thing where the bottom button and buttonhole curve away with the points -- purely decorative.


Please tell me what looks nice about a button hidden behind the roll of a lapel and a buttonhole just sitting there with absolutely nothing to do. IMO, the 3 rolled to 2 just looks dumb, not nice.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Different folks, different strokes. Let's not get into the millionth debate about 3 roll 2 jackets, please.


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## kelliw (Aug 13, 2008)

Amazing! Tom Ford did a great job.


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## Dashing1 (Feb 27, 2007)

IMO these outfits won't stand the test of time. The cuts are too fashion-forward. From the short jackets to the highwater pants, Bond doesn't have "clean" lines in this movie; he has "immature" lines and looks a bit like Buster Brown: Superspy.

We'll one day look back on this era of Tom Ford dressing Bond as we would have if he were dressed by Calvin Klein or Gloria Vanderbilt. Bring back Brioni!


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## Royal_Elegance (May 8, 2006)

I did not like the suits. I find ticket pockets and hidden buttons/buttonholes to be inelegant. Further, I do not think the cut was flattering to his body. The suits appeared to be too narrow at the shoulders and the pants could take a higher rise. The sunglasses were too small for his head and their style plain awful. 

Nonetheless, I was pleasantly surprised by the elegance of the black tie ensemble.


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## Casablanca (Apr 16, 2007)

Matt S said:


> I saw the film on Friday night. The simplicity of Bond's wardrobe really reminded me of Connery's clothes. All the Tom Ford suits seem to be of the same cut, 3 button roll to 2, side vents, ticket pocket, roped sleevehead, flat front cuffed trousers. The trousers all have side tabs, worn without a belt. I thought the cut was very good for Craig and suits him much better than the Brioni suits. All the formal shirts are white with French cuffs. Apart from the first suit he wears, all the others are worn with a white, TV-folded pocket square. He wore black Church's perforated captoe oxford shoes with all his suits. He starts off the film in a Navy Blue with blue pinstripe suit. I can't recall the tie, but it was soon discarded. He started off every suit wearing a tie, and most of the time discards them. But when he takes off his ties it makes sense. Throughout the rest of the film he wears either black or dark grey suits. With the black suit he wears a black with white pin-dot tie and with the grey he wears a black and white checker tie. The black suit is worn on two occasions. On the first in London, a navy blue or charcoal grey would have been better. But he later wears it to an evening party with what seemed to be a blue with white pin-dot tie. It seemed appropriate at the party.
> The shawl lapel dinner jacket was impressive. It was clearly modeled after the one from Dr. No: it had turn-back cuffs! The lapels were wider and more in proportion than the narrow ones in Dr. No. This is the first time James Bond wore a diamond-ended bow-tie. It was hard to tell, but I believe he wore a cummerbund this time.
> I'll have to check back on the casual wear, but I quite liked most of it. He wore a black cardigan with aviator sunglasses that made him look just like Steve McQueen.
> Thankfully, there was much more suit screen-time than in Casino Royale. And the Tom Ford suits looked much more natural on Daniel Craig than Brioni. And the suits weren't all too fashion forward. They didn't button too high and the trouser rise wasn't too low. My only complaint is the black suit. But except for the first suit, just about everything else he wore was black and white. I like the idea of bringing Bond back to a much more neutral and minimal wardrobe. So what are everyone else's thoughts on it?


In Casino Royale and Quantum of Solace, the most interesting change to Bond's wardrobe that I noticed was the tropical scenes where he'd wear a polo untucked with khakis. Probably a more casual look than I've seen most of the other Bonds wear (I mainly remember them in suits). Also just for the record, I don't think I've ever seen a Bond (or very many other characters in any of the films) wear a button cuff shirt (he always goes with French cuffs) though I don't see French cuffs worn as often in real life where I live (on the news or wherever), so I'm guessing that they're more popular in Europe and Britian than in the States.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Royal_Elegance said:


> I did not like the suits. I find ticket pockets and hidden buttons/buttonholes to be inelegant. Further, I do not think the cut was flattering to his body. The suits appeared to be too narrow at the shoulders and *the pants could take a higher rise*. The sunglasses were too small for his head and their style plain awful.
> 
> Nonetheless, I was pleasantly surprised by the elegance of the black tie ensemble.


I actually agree with you on that point. They probably made them lower rise for of the same excuse that has been given in fashion the last five years: "If you have washboard abs, low rise pants will show them off!" Mr. Craig definitely does, but how that makes any sense when a shirt is covering them, I will never know.


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## 82-Greg (Apr 13, 2008)

Cabbage said:


> Look at this puny tie knot and pathetic collar.


I'd have to disagree. I think the collars and the tie knots are perfect, classic mid-range in terms of size.


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## gentleman amateur (Mar 2, 2008)

Here in Japan I have to wait until January for the film. I really look forward to it. When I saw CR, I was completely ignorant of Flusser, the history and the rules, etc., and could enjoy the film as a film. Now I hope my recently acquired sartorial education, which I continue to expand from learning and which I hope to improve in application, does not interfere too much with my enjoyment of QoS.

Too bad Bond wears a black suit--black lounge suits are a waste of cloth and money and show fashion influence, style ignorance. In the novel _Diamonds are Forever,_ it is obvious that 007/Fleming does not admire the main villain for his wearing a black suit. I hope Bond shows cuff throughout the film--earlier stills, albeit not from the best angles, suggested otherwise.


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## AMVanquish (May 24, 2005)

gentleman amateur said:


> Here in Japan I have to wait until January for the film. I really look forward to it. When I saw CR, I was completely ignorant of Flusser, the history and the rules, etc., and could enjoy the film as a film. Now I hope my recently acquired sartorial education, which I continue to expand from learning and which I hope to improve in application, does not interfere too much with my enjoyment of QoS.
> 
> Too bad Bond wears a black suit--black lounge suits are a waste of cloth and money and show fashion influence, style ignorance. In the novel _Diamonds are Forever,_ it is obvious that 007/Fleming does not admire the main villain for his wearing a black suit. I hope Bond shows cuff throughout the film--earlier stills, albeit not from the best angles, suggested otherwise.


Aren't black suits pretty big in Japan? Pretty much Asia in general.

I had a family wedding in Hong Kong, and all my male cousins were wearing black 3 button suits with red shirts and ties. I had to bring some tradition back with my navy pinstripe and white shirt.


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## gentleman amateur (Mar 2, 2008)

AMVanquish said:


> Aren't black suits pretty big in Japan? Pretty much Asia in general.
> 
> I had a family wedding in Hong Kong, and all my male cousins were wearing black 3 button suits with red shirts and ties. I had to bring some tradition back with my navy pinstripe and white shirt.


Yes, unfortunately they are very common in Japan. If I understand Sator's history of black on this website, the Japanese introduced the black lounge suit as a standard. Shame on them. And there are black blazers here. What is really stupid is the black suit and white shirt sans tie. This is not the combination of formality and informality that Manton esteems, especially esteeming Fred Astaire for his successful combinations.

Despite the high contrast of Japanese who choose to look natural, the men still look like shite wearing black suits. I've seen healthier looking zombies and vampires--on TV and in the movies, of course. But they are conformists, maybe trying to hide some weight from too many Big Macs, and perhaps want to look formal--not to mention the trend is so entrenched here they may think it a rule. But that's a problem. Japanese are notorious stressed out people, and the overly formal black suit on men, despite the trend to dress down, doesn't make them look any more relaxed, even despite the recent trend in not wearing ties.

That said, many men here learned how to dress classically long before I did and do a very good job of it--even some of the younger men. And they dress better than most _gaijin_ English teachers here who cry at wearing a tie, much less a suit. And on women, black suits can look good, which even Manton seems to acknowledge. Black and white, black and red, etc. can look great on _oshare_/_suteki_/_hin ga aru_ Japanse women here--at least those who still have black hair and white/cream/moon-/honey-colored skin.

The black suit is required for interviews, so when I try to move beyond my far less stressed out English teaching job, I'll be taking a risk with a navy blue suit for interviews. Maybe I'll wear my charcoal gray suit. Might leave the pocket square at home--but then maybe it'll help me.


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

Casablanca said:


> In Casino Royale and Quantum of Solace, the most interesting change to Bond's wardrobe that I noticed was the tropical scenes where he'd wear a polo untucked with khakis. Probably a more casual look than I've seen most of the other Bonds wear (I mainly remember them in suits). Also just for the record, I don't think I've ever seen a Bond (or very many other characters in any of the films) wear a button cuff shirt (he always goes with French cuffs) though I don't see French cuffs worn as often in real life where I live (on the news or wherever), so I'm guessing that they're more popular in Europe and Britian than in the States.


James Bond didn't wear French cuffs with suits until Pierce Brosnan in GoldenEye. Before that he only wore French Cuffs with black tie. Sean Connery used to wear Polo shirts casually (look at Dr. No and Thunderball). If you want to read more about Bond's wardrobe throughout all 22 movies (I still haven't finished Quantum of Solace yet) send me a PM with your e-mail and I can send you an Excel file with detailed information on all of Bond's outfits.


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

Jovan said:


> I actually agree with you on that point. They probably made them lower rise for of the same excuse that has been given in fashion the last five years: "If you have washboard abs, low rise pants will show them off!" Mr. Craig definitely does, but how that makes any sense when a shirt is covering them, I will never know.


I didn't find the suit trousers in QoS to be as low-rise as I had expected. The rise is actually higher than the standard Tom Ford suits (as per Louise Frogley, the costume designer). But it's still low and could use at least another 2 inches.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

I noticed at least two instances where Sean Connery wore French cuffs, in _Goldfinger_ and _Thunderball_. I'm also quite sure Roger Moore did, though he wore the turnback button cuff inititally.


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## Mark Anthony (Apr 2, 2007)

Matt S said:


> If you want to read more about Bond's wardrobe throughout all 22 movies (I still haven't finished Quantum of Solace yet) send me a PM with your e-mail and I can send you an Excel file with detailed information on all of Bond's outfits.


I still have no idea why TheGuyIsBack started a thread about James Bond obsession:icon_smile_wink:

I haven't seen the QOS yet but if I understand correctly it begins minutes after Casino Royale ends. Is it a continuation of the same scene?

If that is so I assume Bond is wearing the same clothing as that scene continues into QOS. In Casino Royale he wore Brioni yet the scene continues with his Tom Ford/Zegna outfit. It would be interesting to view the two scenes back to back and compare.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

It seems like he misplaced his waistcoat between the end of _Casino Royale_ and the beginning of _Quantum of Solace_. What's up with that?


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

Jovan said:


> I noticed at least two instances where Sean Connery wore French cuffs, in _Goldfinger_ and _Thunderball_. I'm also quite sure Roger Moore did, though he wore the turnback button cuff inititally.


Oh yes, I forgot about Goldfinger. He didn't wear any button cuffs in that movie. But in Thunderball, all of his cuffs with his suits, sport coats, and dinner jacket are the 2-button turnback. Roger Moore only wore French cuffs with his dinner jackets and morning dress. I just checked my notes. If you want to see my excel charts of all of Bond's clothing, send me a PM with your e-mail.


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

Jovan said:


> It seems like he misplaced his waistcoat between the end of _Casino Royale_ and the beginning of _Quantum of Solace_. What's up with that?


Those two suits are really quite different. The only similarity is that they are both navy pinstripes. Though I can't tell for certain, but I believe the shirt also changed, from light blue to white. The new costume designer had her own ideas. I think they could have tried a little harder with continuity. Louise Frogley probably just doesn't like 3-piece suits or blue shirts.


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## DonV (Apr 2, 2006)

I noticed the lack of waistcoat in the opening, as well. He did take off his tie, as well, though, so the only possible explanation I could think of is maybe he used those items to tie off Mr. White's bleeding leg. (No use having him die). I don't recall any shots proving this, though - otherwise, it seems like an odd thing to forget to include.


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## Roikins (Mar 22, 2007)

DonV said:


> I noticed the lack of waistcoat in the opening, as well. He did take off his tie, as well, though, so the only possible explanation I could think of is maybe he used those items to tie off Mr. White's bleeding leg. (No use having him die). I don't recall any shots proving this, though - otherwise, it seems like an odd thing to forget to include.


Given the lack of continuity from the rest of the series, I don't think the continuity of the waistcoast mattered much to them. :icon_smile_wink:


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## JibranK (May 28, 2007)

How exactly was it meant to continue the rest of the movies? CR goes back to Bond's beginning.


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## Roikins (Mar 22, 2007)

JibranK said:


> How exactly was it meant to continue the rest of the movies? CR goes back to Bond's beginning.


Exactly... they abandoned continuity.


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## AMVanquish (May 24, 2005)

Except that they held over the same M into the new Bond universe.


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## JibranK (May 28, 2007)

How exactly does one make _Casino Royale_ follow the others chronologically? I take it that you haven't read the novel.


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## Roikins (Mar 22, 2007)

JibranK said:


> How exactly does one make _Casino Royale_ follow the others chronologically? I take it that you haven't read the novel.


Really? Well, the books weren't made into movies in a strictly chronological way, so it's possible. If you re-watch CR and remove references to it being Bond's first mission, it's quite possible to write it so it appears to be yet another one of his missions. But my original facetious comment was meant to point out that the continuity of the waistcoat is the least of their worries in the continuity department -- older movies that are supposed to happen after CR and QoS referencing countries that no longer exist, newer technology/cars, the same M, etc.


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## DonV (Apr 2, 2006)

I don't think they actually ever made an attempt to make the Bond movies continuous. They're always set in the time period of "Now." I know you were kidding, though. I think that's part of the fun with Bond.

I did see some review online of Casino Royale where the blogger expressed irritation/confusion at the cell phones in the movie. "What are these doing in a movie set in the '60s?!" Clearly he didn't pay very close attention to everything else suggesting it wasn't the 60s. Or every Bond movie since the 1960s.


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## Mark Anthony (Apr 2, 2007)

One thought is that because the franchise has gone on so long 40+ years now, it was time to start over. Win over a new generation perhaps?

Granted my post regarding continuity was clothing based, but it is interesting where this thread has gone.

Not obsessed yet though....honest:icon_smile_wink:


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

Casino Royale started over by disregarding what happened before. But I believe they want to try to keep the continuity amongst the new movies. I doubt many people think about the suits regarding continuity, and some attempt was made to keep the suit a navy pinstripe as it was in Casino Royale. But a new costume designer was chosen. I don't know what happened to Lindy Hemming, or other changes in crew that were made (new title sequence designer and production designer). This is the unfortunate state of the film industry and pretty much every industry. Loyalty is not rewarded like it used to be. I respect Cubby Broccoli for keeping Roger Moore on as Bond, even at the age of 58. Cubby is missed, and I don't think he would be happy with the way things are going today in the Bond films.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Matt S said:


> Those two suits are really quite different. The only similarity is that they are both navy pinstripes. Though I can't tell for certain, but I believe the shirt also changed, from light blue to white. The new costume designer had her own ideas. I think they could have tried a little harder with continuity. Louise Frogley probably just doesn't like 3-piece suits or blue shirts.


That's a shame considering Tom Ford makes some of the better cut fashion-y three pieces I've seen. (As in, the waistcoat actually COVERS the trouser waistband despite the lower rise.) Then again, maybe this is a good move. His wardrobe in QoS is a lot closer to how Bond was in the novels from what I understand. All he needs now are black Chelsea boots...



DonV said:


> I noticed the lack of waistcoat in the opening, as well. He did take off his tie, as well, though, so the only possible explanation I could think of is maybe he used those items to tie off Mr. White's bleeding leg. (No use having him die). I don't recall any shots proving this, though - otherwise, it seems like an odd thing to forget to include.


I don't recall him doing anything other than taking it off for comfort, and that was [highlight rest for spoilers] after he brought Mr. White to the secret location in Italy.


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## VincentC (May 23, 2008)

Roikins said:


> Here's a better shot of his dinner jacket and the shirt:
> 
> And some other suit photos:


The suit with the taxi pic looks brown to me and not very good colour. I think Sean Connery wore one, but it suited him better. It was ventless connerys one.
I havent seen QOS but also in the pic he has no belt. It would look better with a belt and yes the tie does seem a bit longish.
A waistcoat also looks better as well.


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

VincentC said:


> The suit with the taxi pic looks brown to me and not very good colour. I think Sean Connery wore one, but it suited him better. It was ventless connerys one.
> I havent seen QOS but also in the pic he has no belt. It would look better with a belt and yes the tie does seem a bit longish.
> A waistcoat also looks better as well.


The suit there is a dark grey. It looks dark grey on my screen and it looked dark grey on the movie screen. I think it's just the way the light shines on it. The only time Connery wore a brown suit was in Thunderball. And that was a rich chocolate brown 3-piece suit that he wore in London with his meeting with M.
I like the choice to go with side tabs instead of a belt. It was what Connery always wore. He never wore belts with his suits. I think suits look much more elegant without a belt. Belts also are more casual.


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## VincentC (May 23, 2008)

I havent seen an old Connery Bond film for a while now, but come to think of it, he never wore a belt did he? I think i can visualize and recall him wearing braces though.

But for modern times i always feel a suit isnt right without a belt. But it has to be a D buckle belt with a golden buckle as opposed to a rectangular silver buckle.

Yes on my screen DC suit does look dark grey now. On the PC i was on earlier today it looked brownish


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

VincentC said:


> I havent seen an old Connery Bond film for a while now, but come to think of it, he never wore a belt did he? I think i can visualize and recall him wearing braces though.
> 
> But for modern times i always feel a suit isnt right without a belt. But it has to be a D buckle belt with a golden buckle as opposed to a rectangular silver buckle.


Connery never wore braces either. You probably remember his shoulder holster for his PPK. His trousers always had the button tabs on the sides that held up his trousers. I think a suit is best with a seamless transition between the coat and trousers. A belt breaks the clean lines of a suit.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

I've come to like either look -- belt or side tabs. Both look nice in their own way, but I suppose belt loops are better on more casual suits. I would never get a double breasted or three piece made with belt loops though. Those are both a little "dressy" for that, and we know how bad a belt can look with a waistcoat. :crazy:


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## VincentC (May 23, 2008)

But waistcoats normally cover the belt dont they, so its not worth wearing a belt with a 3 piece suit is it?

Did James Bond ever wear pinstripe or Chalk stripe suits BTW?


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## silverporsche (Nov 3, 2005)

I think dress in motion pictures has more to due with the actor , and the image he projects.
The new Bond is short and not very attractive. The suave dashing Bonds are a thing of the past. This Bond is action not words , that is the new trend in movies today. Who needs dialogue. 

Starting with Sean Connery the Bonds were more continental , should I say more of the Cary Grant types. 
Certainly a taller Bond would exhibit clothing better. A handsome Bond would be more dashing. This new Bond is neither. 
Times have changed , even James Bond.


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## Blueboy1938 (Aug 17, 2008)

*The point is . . .*

. . . that his bow tie has "diamond points." That's a very '40s style, but looks very sharp. I hope he starts a trend.


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

VincentC said:


> But waistcoats normally cover the belt dont they, so its not worth wearing a belt with a 3 piece suit is it?
> 
> Did James Bond ever wear pinstripe or Chalk stripe suits BTW?


Waistcoats don't exactly cover a belt. There would be lump where the belt buckle is if worn under a waistcoat.

And Bond has worn plenty of chalkstripe and pinstripe suits. I have created an excel chart of Bond's clothes from every film. Send me a PM with your e-mail if you want me to send you a copy.


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## VincentC (May 23, 2008)

Matt S said:


> Waistcoats don't exactly cover a belt. There would be lump where the belt buckle is if worn under a waistcoat.


Ive only got one 3 piece suit. When wearing the waistcoat it covers my belt loops, so it would also cover my belt and the belt wouldnt be visible to anyone.

My waistcoat must be more longish than most i can only presume.


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## Rossini (Oct 7, 2007)

silverporsche said:


> I think dress in motion pictures has more to due with the actor , and the image he projects.
> The new Bond is short and not very attractive. The suave dashing Bonds are a thing of the past. This Bond is action not words , that is the new trend in movies today. Who needs dialogue.
> 
> Starting with Sean Connery the Bonds were more continental , should I say more of the Cary Grant types.
> ...


I think you are right to a point. However, it strikes me as a little amusing to hear Sean Connery described thus. A rugged, perhaps uncouth, working class coffin-polisher and body-builder from Edinburgh before landing a role in South Pacific, he was famously not remotely Ian Fleming's idea of Bond. In fact, it was felt he was the antithesis of the Niven-like sophisticate that Fleming imagined for the role. It turned out, of course, that he fulfilled expectations. And I wonder if Craig, who has a head-start on Connery for poshness, might also change people's minds by the end of his four-film cycle.


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## JibranK (May 28, 2007)

Fleming was so impressed by the end result that he wrote in Bond's Scots lineage.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

VincentC said:


> Ive only got one 3 piece suit. When wearing the waistcoat it covers my belt loops, so it would also cover my belt and the belt wouldnt be visible to anyone.
> 
> My waistcoat must be more longish than most i can only presume.


From all I've seen, waistcoats will look better without the belt. The belt leaves a noticeable bump and gap in front over the trousers instead of a smooth transition. Consider braces!


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## gentleman amateur (Mar 2, 2008)

silverporsche said:


> I think dress in motion pictures has more to due with the actor , and the image he projects.
> The new Bond is short and not very attractive. The suave dashing Bonds are a thing of the past. This Bond is action not words , that is the new trend in movies today. Who needs dialogue.
> 
> Starting with Sean Connery the Bonds were more continental , should I say more of the Cary Grant types.
> ...


You overstate your case. I haven't seen QoS yet--can't until January here in Japan. However, I saw CR, and the dialogue in that film, particularly in the train and in the restaurant after the poker game, were great. The dialogue in the rest of the film was very good, too, particularly with M. As regards dialogue and character, CR is the strongest Bond film, yet. Moreover, this Bond is based more on Fleming's Bond than previous Bonds, Dalton included.


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## gentleman amateur (Mar 2, 2008)

Rossini said:


> I think you are right to a point. However, it strikes me as a little amusing to hear Sean Connery described thus. A rugged, perhaps uncouth, working class coffin-polisher and body-builder from Edinburgh before landing a role in South Pacific, he was famously not remotely Ian Fleming's idea of Bond. In fact, it was felt he was the antithesis of the Niven-like sophisticate that Fleming imagined for the role. It turned out, of course, that he fulfilled expectations. And I wonder if Craig, who has a head-start on Connery for poshness, might also change people's minds by the end of his four-film cycle.


I agree with you to a certain point. However, Fleming's Bond was not as polished as Young's.

https://www.hmss.com/films/young.htm


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## silverporsche (Nov 3, 2005)

gentleman amateur said:


> You overstate your case. I haven't seen QoS yet--can't until January here in Japan. However, I saw CR, and the dialogue in that film, particularly in the train and in the restaurant after the poker game, were great. The dialogue in the rest of the film was very good, too, particularly with M. As regards dialogue and character, CR is the strongest Bond film, yet. Moreover, this Bond is based more on Fleming's Bond than previous Bonds, Dalton included.


Very few books that is later made into movies or the characters exact copies of the characters in the book.
The Bond series was a success because it did in movies recreate the Bond character . Bond was more sophisticated , suave , continental , dashing character than in the book. 
Can you imagine a movie character using Benzedrine straight in a movie ,

Living with women , and driving a Bentley convertible, wearing sandals and loafers ?
The older Bond were more like again Cary Grant or a suave David Niven.
Did not Hollywood create Cary Grant , Louis Jourdan , Charles Boyer ,Maurice Chevalier
and many others , who became successful motion picture stars ?

This Bond may work. We will just have to wait and see, he is more like a Bruce Willis.
The older Bonds Cary Grant. Today's movie going public has changed. Violence , crashes , 
sex , and limited dialogue is the norm , not the catchy one liners of the older movies 
with great character creation.

Bond has changed little over the forty odd years in production , that is in my opinion the reason for success. Would men rather be a Bruce Willis type character or a Cary Grant 
type character ? will the Bond change be as successful as the older Bonds ? we will soon find
out.


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## gentleman amateur (Mar 2, 2008)

silverporsche said:


> Very few books that is later made into movies or the characters exact copies of the characters in the book.
> The Bond series was a success because it did in movies recreate the Bond character . Bond was more sophisticated , suave , continental , dashing character than in the book.
> Can you imagine a movie character using Benzedrine straight in a movie ,
> 
> ...


We both seem to like Cary Grant and Sean Connery. I plan to get the DVDs of all of Grant's films. But I'm glad that he did not become Bond as Broccoli originally wanted. He was too old and too CG. It is better when relative unknowns such as Connery, Dalton, and Craig get the role--our preconceptions are less and they have something to prove. The Marlboro Man and the Saint were less successful as Bond.

Lazenby would be the only continental Bond bc only his country is a continent:icon_smile_wink:

Connery, Dalton, and Brosnan subdued their respective Scottishness, Welshness, and Irishness presumably to make it in English theater and Connery came under Terence Young's influence before Fleming turned lit 007 into a half-Scot, half Swiss.

Many overstate the case when they refer to lit 007 as being amoral. Quite the contrary, but he was colder and more violent than the Bond that Young wisely created.

https://www.hmss.com/films/young.htm

While lit 007 still was an English gentleman, as was Fleming (of Scottish ancestry himself), as we know Young's taking Connery in and shaping him created one of cinema's greatest characters.

I wouldn't compare Craig to Willis. And all Bond films have violence, crashes, etc. In fact, CR successfully was the most dialogue and character-oriented 007 film. In fact, whereas CR was a return to a more realistic Bond, villain, and story after _Die Another Day_, _Die Hard 4_ went supernova in unbelievability as has DAD. Moreover, Craig looks right in his suits and dinner jackets, which Willis could never pull off. And if you'll recall, Craig's Bond stands up for Vesper Lynd as she leaves the table in both the train scene and the restaurant scene in the hotel after Bond wins the poker game. he is a gentleman, just not as refined as the rest. Michael Wilson and Barbara Broccoli have intelligently reinvented and refreshed the series. With Craig we get proto-007, a newbie assassin whose coldness and aloofness towards real relationships towards women (before he marries for a few minutes) is a quality necessary for his job prior to CR, and now after CR and QofS the base from which he operates. Once again, I haven't seen QofS. If _Batman Begins_ and CR are origin stories, it sounds like _The Dark Knight_, which I have seen, and _QofS_ are face your demons movies. I do hope in Bond 23 we get Q, Moneypenny, suaveness, humor without degenerating into repetitiveness and unbelievability.

Finally, I am surprised many characterize QoS as pure action. From what I have read, Craig, like Connery and Dalton, likes From Russia with Love the best and it seems like QofS is an exercise in a cinematic realistic style without repeating CR. Whereas the 007 series like many series can become too formulaic, the success of great sequels like The _Godfather II_ and _The Empire Strikes Back_ is that they do not formulaically repeat what worked in their predecessors--and it took time for these sequels to be appreciated, let alone be considered by many as superior to the originals, even if they did not earn as much $$$. It sounds like the producers and screenwriters who created CR, which for me joins the pantheon of _Dr. No_, _From Russia with Love_, _Goldfinger_, and _Thunderball_, honestly did not want to make CR II, creating instead a script with a complex, darker plot of betrayal and intrique, revenge and atonement, which they handed over to a European art film director. Perhaps the film doesn't work. Perhaps it it too influenced by the _Bourne_ trilogy--I'll find out in January, but not one negative review--and they are in the minority--that I have read so far lays the blame at Craig. Just the opposite.


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## spectre (May 12, 2007)

You'll love QoS, even if the action is a bit frentic. I seem to be in the minority in liking it more than CR, or at least as much.


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## Air King (Dec 17, 2007)

Does anyone have a picture of Daniel Craig's cardigan outfit?


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## nolan50410 (Dec 5, 2006)

I saw the film yesterday. I thought it was a great sequel to Casino Royale and it sets up a third movie that answers all the questions. The clothing was top notch. My favorites pieces were the shawl collar cardigan in Italy and the cashmere overcoat in the last scene.


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## VincentC (May 23, 2008)

spectre said:


> You'll love QoS, even if the action is a bit frentic. I seem to be in the minority in liking it more than CR, or at least as much.


I think im watching it tomorrow. I cant remember really liking CR that much. I was i think trying to assess DC too much i guess in trying to see how i felt about him as Bond. If i saw it a second time im sure i would appreciate it more though.

I hope QOS is good. Heard it isnt that great though mostly.


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## JibranK (May 28, 2007)

You should watch CR again before you watch QoS, since the latter continues just after the former.


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## spectre (May 12, 2007)

Lands End has that shawl cardigan in cashmere if you're interested. It says it's a trim fit and is exactly the same as Craig wears. Only trouble is with LE cashmere.


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## VincentC (May 23, 2008)

spectre said:


> You'll love QoS, even if the action is a bit frentic. I seem to be in the minority in liking it more than CR, or at least as much.


I'll join you in that minority who liked it even more than CR. At least as far as i remember. All i really remember in CR is that chase at the beggining of the film, and him getting out of the water.

My only problem with this film is that DC suit and clothes were wrecked in this film so i couldnt inspect the quality of his clothes. Also i couldnt see the length of his suit cuffs and see if shirt was showing. His suit sleeves did look a bit too long as far as i was aware.


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## VincentC (May 23, 2008)

Does anyone know if Bond ever wore a Camel coloured overcoat in any of the Bond films?
Im kind of remembering Roger Moore wore one, but cant remember if my memory serves me right. He may have wore it in a film but not a Bond film.


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

VincentC said:


> Does anyone know if Bond ever wore a Camel coloured overcoat in any of the Bond films?
> Im kind of remembering Roger Moore wore one, but cant remember if my memory serves me right. He may have wore it in a film but not a Bond film.


Brosnan wore a traditional camel polo coat in Tomorrow Never Dies. Roger Moore wore a Camel sport coat in The Spy Who Loved Me.


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## Mute (Apr 3, 2005)

silverporsche said:


> I think dress in motion pictures has more to due with the actor , and the image he projects.
> The new Bond is short and not very attractive. The suave dashing Bonds are a thing of the past. This Bond is action not words , that is the new trend in movies today. Who needs dialogue.
> 
> Starting with Sean Connery the Bonds were more continental , should I say more of the Cary Grant types.
> ...


I quite agree with your assessment. However, in QOS I do see them evolving the character through all th events that takes place. I'm hoping by the next film we'll see more of that cool, polished, controlled Bond that we're used to.


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## VincentC (May 23, 2008)

Matt S said:


> Brosnan wore a traditional camel polo coat in Tomorrow Never Dies. Roger Moore wore a Camel sport coat in The Spy Who Loved Me.


Thanks. I can now try and check out those films or at least be on the lookout now. Oh was it "the spy who loved me" If it was me to guess it would have been "the man with the golden gun" though.


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## Roikins (Mar 22, 2007)

Yep, "Tomorrow Never Dies" is the only movie that I can recall off hand when Bond wears an overcoat that's not charcoal or navy:

https://img135.imageshack.us/my.php?image=photo11oj3.jpg


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## VincentC (May 23, 2008)

come to think of it. I cant recall a charcoal overcoat ever being worn? Only navy or black i would say.


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## Roikins (Mar 22, 2007)

VincentC said:


> come to think of it. I cant recall a charcoal overcoat ever being worn? Only navy or black i would say.


I saw the Tom Ford overcoat used at the end of "QoS" at Neiman Marcus, and it's charcoal.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

I seem to recall it being navy and Tom Ford's being an "interpretation" of it from an article on James Bond Lifestyle.


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## Roikins (Mar 22, 2007)

Jovan said:


> I seem to recall it being navy and Tom Ford's being an "interpretation" of it from an article on James Bond Lifestyle.


It's an interpretation of the coat he designed for the movie? The coat that's being sold is the same design as the one used in the movie.

https://img242.imageshack.us/my.php?image=145img2267sk9.jpg


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

"It resembles the coat seen in the last scene of Quantum of Solace, although that one is dark blue or black." I don't remember the coat having that little throat latch on the collar either.

https://www.jamesbondlifestyle.com/index_clothing.php?m=cl&g=cl031

Airwalk did a similar thing with boots for _The Matrix_ in 1999. They did not feature the same toe or height as the ones they made for Keanu Reeves, but were still branded with the movie title.


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## Roikins (Mar 22, 2007)

Jovan said:


> "It resembles the coat seen in the last scene of Quantum of Solace, although that one is dark blue or black." I don't remember the coat having that little throat latch on the collar either.
> 
> https://www.jamesbondlifestyle.com/index_clothing.php?m=cl&g=cl031
> 
> Airwalk did a similar thing with boots for _The Matrix_ in 1999. They did not feature the same toe or height as the ones they made for Keanu Reeves, but were still branded with the movie title.


Nope, it has the throat latch in the movie, but because Bond wears the collar popped, it's hard to see unless you're looking for it. If you look carefully, you'll see it looks like there are 2 notches on the left coat lapel/collar, the 2nd one formed by the latch overlapping the notch. As for the color, I'm not sure where the website is sourcing the color information, but in the movie, it's hard to tell the exact color as navy, charcoal, or black as in the low lighting of the scene, all 3 colors would appear dark.


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## moss01 (Dec 6, 2008)

Roger Moore had a really nice navy cashmere coat in one of Bond films. It was featured in a recent documentary on Savile Row.


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## David Reeves (Dec 19, 2008)

Yeah i liked it. I thought the Brioni suits looked so bad. Nothing jaw dropping though.

I liked the mcqueen look as well.

In casino Royale the only thing I liked was the casual shirt


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## JibranK (May 28, 2007)

This film switched from Brioni to Zegna.


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## ToryBoy (Oct 13, 2008)

JibranK said:


> This film switched from Brioni to Zegna.


Well, Tom Ford (which is made by Zegna)


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## James Bond (Dec 5, 2007)

David Reeves said:


> In casino Royale the only thing I liked was the casual shirt


Not even the three-piece at the end?


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## moss01 (Dec 6, 2008)

I guess they can no longer afford Savile Row in the budget


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## gentleman amateur (Mar 2, 2008)

After seeing this thread again, I decided to do some research, hoping that Matt S was mistaken about the black suit. Btw, I'm in Japan, so I haven't seen the film, yet. However, not only does another source mention Bond's black suit, but says that the black suit is the return of Bond's main uniform. Has the journalist ever read a Bond novel or watched a Bond movie? And it is obvious that the journalist is describing a lounge suit, not a dinner suit.

https://www.wellcultured.com/fashion/369/the-mens-fashion-of-quantum-of-solace


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

gentleman amateur said:


> After seeing this thread again, I decided to do some research, hoping that Matt S was mistaken about the black suit.


I checked that over many times to make sure what I saw was black, and I didn't want to believe it either. But half the time he wears a nice charcoal suit. It's strange that everywhere I read says that the suit is a 2-button, but I clearly see it is a 3-button rolled to the middle. Even Louise Frogley said it was a 2-button. And I see that Tom Ford gets credit for a classic Oliver People's sunglass design . The article you linked to has got a few things wrong. No one has examined Bond's suits quite as closely as I have.


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## gentleman amateur (Mar 2, 2008)

Matt S said:


> I checked that over many times to make sure what I saw was black, and I didn't want to believe it either. But half the time he wears a nice charcoal suit. It's strange that everywhere I read says that the suit is a 2-button, but I clearly see it is a 3-button rolled to the middle. Even Louise Frogley said it was a 2-button. And I see that Tom Ford gets credit for a classic Oliver People's sunglass design . The article you linked to has got a few things wrong. No one has examined Bond's suits quite as closely as I have.


Looks black from the pix. Not that I doubted your accuracy, I was just hoping your report was a bad dream. Still love Bond and Craig and can't wait until the film opens here in Japan. I guess ignorance is bliss. It was only last year after grad school that I began to buy suits to work in Japan. If I hadn't learned that black suits were bad taste, I would have bought them. I like black, and with regard to clothes, especially for shoes. That said, navy is my favorite color and I also like midnight blue, both of which can be confused with black. If I ever get to where I can buy bespoke formal wear, I'll have to decide between blue and black for evening wear and black and gray for day wear.


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## Garfield (Jan 29, 2006)

Finally saw this last night, did anyone notice a shot when Craig was in a taxi, he had his arm resting on the window?

I could swear that he had one of his suit sleeve buttons undone. :icon_smile_big:


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

Garfield said:


> Finally saw this last night, did anyone notice a shot when Craig was in a taxi, he had his arm resting on the window?
> 
> I could swear that he had one of his suit sleeve buttons undone. :icon_smile_big:


I just had a look at some pictures again and noticed this to be true. But this is a Tom Ford suit and Tom Ford is quite fond of putting 5 buttons on the sleeves. Unbuttoning the last one hides the 1 button too many. So in this case I'd say that unbuttoning the last button is a fix for one too many cuff buttons.


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## gentleman amateur (Mar 2, 2008)

Matt S said:


> I just had a look at some pictures again and noticed this to be true. But this is a Tom Ford suit and Tom Ford is quite fond of putting 5 buttons on the sleeves. Unbuttoning the last one hides the 1 button too many. So in this case I'd say that unbuttoning the last button is a fix for one too many cuff buttons.


5 buttons. Another modernist fashion designer heresy.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

I'm sure the same was said of there only being two buttons on jackets in the '60s, yet some trads here prefer them.


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## BLFancher (Mar 18, 2007)

Surely that detail was not something simply overlooked. I mean...they pay these costume designers a lot of $ to be concerned with the smallest details. I would think that if the jacket had 5 buttons, that it was not something wayward and "adjusted" by hiding one.


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## Khnelben (Feb 18, 2005)

*Loved the casual ...*

clothes set.

The short pants (all sold out, by Levis), Churches boots and the cardigan. Although pricey (¬1000 Eur) it looks very nice. The eyewear - to each his own, I like the classic aviators more but then again ...

McQueen loved the style and had several - both in white and black. These cardigans are a big thing now and Zara carries one almost exactly like the TF one (not cashmere and different buttons) (this has been making rounds on the Net since QoS came out) .

Will see what's with the next film - Craig said he has had enough of this story arc - so new things should be in order.

Andrey


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## Roikins (Mar 22, 2007)

BLFancher said:


> Surely that detail was not something simply overlooked. I mean...they pay these costume designers a lot of $ to be concerned with the smallest details. I would think that if the jacket had 5 buttons, that it was not something wayward and "adjusted" by hiding one.


It did have 5 buttons, as that's one of Tom Ford's signatures. However, it seems like where he made a concession was that the 5th button/buttonhole is regular sized. On his normal suits, the 5th button and hole are slightly larger than the other 4. I think the navy pinstripe suit from the start of the movie, which is supposed to be the 3-piece Brioni at the end of "Casino Royale," also has 5 buttons, with the 5th undone, so apart from the missing vest, there's another costume continuity issue.


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## VincentC (May 23, 2008)

Has BOnd ever worn a Covert overcoat as far as anyone knows?


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## mysharona (Nov 4, 2008)

Cabbage said:


> Look at this puny tie knot and pathetic collar.


If you've read any Bond novels, Bond says that a Windsor knot makes a man look like a cad or untrustworthy. This knot is in keeping with Flemming's Bond.


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## mysharona (Nov 4, 2008)

HA! See! Even Bond leaves the first button of his surgeon cuffs undone! If you like the way it looks, do it!


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## mysharona (Nov 4, 2008)

Casablanca said:


> Also just for the record, I don't think I've ever seen a Bond (or very many other characters in any of the films) wear a button cuff shirt (he always goes with French cuffs) though I don't see French cuffs worn as often in real life where I live (on the news or wherever), so I'm guessing that they're more popular in Europe and Britian than in the States.


Brosnan often wore turn-back cuffs with formal attire, or button cuffs where the cuff folds back over the buttons and looks like a french cuff.


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## mysharona (Nov 4, 2008)

JibranK said:


> How exactly was it meant to continue the rest of the movies? CR goes back to Bond's beginning.


I think what was said is that Quantum of Solace picks up where CS left off, and nothing about any other Bond films.


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## mysharona (Nov 4, 2008)

silverporsche said:


> I think dress in motion pictures has more to due with the actor , and the image he projects.
> The new Bond is short and not very attractive. The suave dashing Bonds are a thing of the past. This Bond is action not words , that is the new trend in movies today. Who needs dialogue.


I love the way men constantly refer to Daniel Craig as unattractive. My wife and any other women I talk to always say "he's so sexy." I just find it humorous.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Men tend to say that when they're jealous of the one in question.


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## gentleman amateur (Mar 2, 2008)

mysharona said:


> If you've read any Bond novels, Bond says that a Windsor knot makes a man look like a cad or untrustworthy. This knot is in keeping with Flemming's Bond.


I've heard this before. I also have heard "traitor" in addition to "cad." Which novel is it? And if it is "traitor," could this be bc of the Duke of Windsor's political sympathies?


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## JibranK (May 28, 2007)

gentleman amateur said:


> I've heard this before. I also have heard "traitor" in addition to "cad." Which novel is it? And if it is "traitor," could this be bc of the Duke of Windsor's political sympathies?


I don't think so. The Duke of Windsor never wore that knot.


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## flatline (Dec 22, 2008)

David Reeves said:


> In casino Royale the only thing I liked was the casual shirt


The polo from CR was made by Sunspel, I rather liked it as well. Bond can't wear a suit all of the time, after all. https://www.sunspel.com/products/sub_category.asp?id=30


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

I thought he meant the short sleeved shirt with epaulettes.


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