# Source for shell cordovan wallet?



## TweedyDon (Aug 31, 2007)

I'm looking for a bifold wallet in shell, and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions now that AE have ceased producing their beautiful wallets in shell? I'd prefer not to go with Brooks, as I'd prefer to have a Horween wallet, and I know of Ashland already--but would welcome knowing of people's experience of them!

Thanks!


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## Pentheos (Jun 30, 2008)

Not exactly what you're looking for, but I _highly_ recommend the Mitchell money clip in shell cordovan. I've had one for a year, use it on a daily basis, and love it on a daily basis. You might contact them to see about a custom bifold in case the clip isn't to your liking.


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## Eric W S (Jun 6, 2012)

Horween is way behind on shell production. I have two shell wallets on order since August. If you see one, I'd buy it.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Going on two years at this point and I am continuing to enjoy my AE #8 shell cordovan wallet immensely! While the brand chosen may result in design variances, the nature/performance characteristics of the shell cordovan material should remain fairly constant, regardless of brand.


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## dport86 (Jan 24, 2009)

Coming up on 2 years on mine as well, but the lining is pulling away and there's a little splitting at the card holder slots. Cordovan is holding up great though. Didn't realize AE had stopped producing. Hope that when the current craze for cordovan diminishes and Horween can catch up on orders, AE will return to production. Of course, with their new corporate masters, they'll probably go the way of Timberland and Bass and Florsheim.


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## Acme (Oct 5, 2011)

TD,

Are you sure they're not available at AE? The two listed on the website show "in stock" status. Or am I looking at the wrong wallets?


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## TweedyDon (Aug 31, 2007)

You're right--they're back... But at almost three times the price I paid a couple of years ago, when they were on sale! 

(I contacted AE a few months ago, and they told me then that they'd stopped making them.)

So, now my search has been refined to a cheaper alternative!


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## VaBeach (Oct 14, 2013)

TweedyDon said:


> You're right--they're back... But at almost three times the price I paid a couple of years ago, when they were on sale!
> 
> (I contacted AE a few months ago, and they told me then that they'd stopped making them.)
> 
> So, now my search has been refined to a cheaper alternative!


TD, I looked at the AE wallets too - ouch. Mitchell is an option even though I did not get a very good response when I was looking for dress belts.


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## At Law (Apr 15, 2008)

Brooks has a couple of offerings in shell. A very nice card case which I use for my wallet paired with a money clip.


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## VaBeach (Oct 14, 2013)

At Law said:


> Brooks has a couple of offerings in shell. A very nice card case which I use for my wallet paired with a money clip.


I looked them over but the prices went through the roof. I carry a money clip/credit card wallet in one and would really like to have one in Horween.


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## Eric W S (Jun 6, 2012)

TweedyDon said:


> I'm looking for a bifold wallet in shell, and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions now that AE have ceased producing their beautiful wallets in shell? I'd prefer not to go with Brooks, as I'd prefer to have a Horween wallet, and I know of Ashland already--but would welcome knowing of people's experience of them!
> 
> Thanks!


Phil Kalas is stand up. I am ordering a Horween Dublin in Cognac from him. He always responds quickly to my email and has refused payment until the wallet is complete. Should be done soon.


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## Tempest (Aug 16, 2012)

Etsy has several people offering such things. I have no idea what the appeal of a shell wallet is, but they are made.


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## Acme (Oct 5, 2011)

TweedyDon said:


> You're right--they're back... But at almost three times the price I paid a couple of years ago, when they were on sale!
> 
> (I contacted AE a few months ago, and they told me then that they'd stopped making them.)
> 
> So, now my search has been refined to a cheaper alternative!


We should have stocked up! :icon_smile_big:

So now I have a question. Everyone says Horween is the only company still making shell cordovan. Do they mean Horween is the only tanner still producing in the US? Or do they mean Horween is the only one left on the planet?


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## gaseousclay (Nov 8, 2009)

I ordered a black CXL money clip from Mitchell leather yesterday. Decided to go with black because I didn't want to be too matchy with my brown CXL Indy boots and belt. Will post pics when it arrives


Sent from my tinfoil hat


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## challer (Sep 4, 2008)

Probably far more than you want to spend but much higher quality than anything here. Made with Horween and they can make to order. I have several pieces. To me, worth it. Japanese leather goods are remarkable, particularly in shell.


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## Eric W S (Jun 6, 2012)

Acme said:


> We should have stocked up! :icon_smile_big:
> 
> So now I have a question. Everyone says Horween is the only company still making shell cordovan. Do they mean Horween is the only tanner still producing in the US? Or do they mean Horween is the only one left on the planet?


Shell is still made in Spain.


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## Eric W S (Jun 6, 2012)

challer said:


> Probably far more than you want to spend but much higher quality than anything here. Made with Horween and they can make to order. I have several pieces. To me, worth it. Japanese leather goods are remarkable, particularly in shell.


Huh? There are plenty of makers here in the US that would put that over priced Japanese wallet to shame...


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## challer (Sep 4, 2008)

With all due respect Eric W S, until you've held Ganzo and US work in your hand side by side, you wouldn't see the difference. I have. A photograph simply doesn't capture it. I have a Ganzo wallet I've carried every day for 20 years and it still gets unsolicited compliments and looks nearly new today. If there is a US vendor of equal quality that you recommend, please let me know. You might say the same thing about and Equus Leather belt from this forum - but just ask someone who owns one.

That said, the OP asked for sources and I gave them.



Eric W S said:


> Huh? There are plenty of makers here in the US that would put that over priced Japanese wallet to shame...


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## firedancer (Jan 11, 2011)

challer said:


> With all due respect Eric W S, until you've held Ganzo and US work in your hand side by side, you wouldn't see the difference. I have. A photograph simply doesn't capture it. I have a Ganzo wallet I've carried every day for 20 years and it still gets unsolicited compliments and looks nearly new today. If there is a US vendor of equal quality that you recommend, please let me know. You might say the same thing about and Equus Leather belt from this forum - but just ask someone who owns one.
> 
> That said, the OP asked for sources and I gave them.


But the $700 price tag. Ouch.


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## Tilton (Nov 27, 2011)

Man, I thought the shell cordovan dopp kit I passed on at my honey hole last year was too spendy. $80!


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## gaseousclay (Nov 8, 2009)

challer said:


> Probably far more than you want to spend but much higher quality than anything here. Made with Horween and they can make to order. I have several pieces. To me, worth it. Japanese leather goods are remarkable, particularly in shell.


That's a fairly subjective statement, no? I have no doubt that Japanese leather goods are well made, as evidenced by the many great shoemakers whose work i've seen, but to suggest that their goods are better than anyone else's without offering any substantive examples seems unfair

Sent from my tinfoil hat


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## MaxBuck (Apr 4, 2013)

Tempest said:


> I have no idea what the appeal of a shell wallet is, but they are made.


I agree with this sentiment.

One could make a kitchen knife out of chert, too, but better materials for the purpose have been developed. The unique qualities of cordovan leather don't seem to me to be very well suited to hauling around cash and cards for frequent use. But those who want a cordovan wallet should have one, and should ignore my own thoughts on the matter.


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## Redsrover (Mar 23, 2009)

Chester Mox


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## gaseousclay (Nov 8, 2009)

MaxBuck said:


> I agree with this sentiment.
> 
> One could make a kitchen knife out of chert, too, but better materials for the purpose have been developed. The unique qualities of cordovan leather don't seem to me to be very well suited to hauling around cash and cards for frequent use. But those who want a cordovan wallet should have one, and should ignore my own thoughts on the matter.


I'm guessing that shell cordovan is more durable than calf, but I have no evidence to substantiate this. I ordered a black chromexcel Mitchell money clip because I couldn't justify the extra expense of shell, and I love shell. I have no doubt that the chromexcel wallet will last me just as long as a shell cordovan wallet. I think people like shell because of it's aesthetics and the patina it develops over time.


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## tigerpac (Jan 23, 2014)

ashland leather

https://www.ashlandleather.com/Ashland-Leather-Wallets-s/1814.htm


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## mualphapiper (Dec 13, 2009)

gaseousclay said:


> I'm guessing that shell cordovan is more durable than calf, but I have no evidence to substantiate this. I ordered a black chromexcel Mitchell money clip because I couldn't justify the extra expense of shell, and I love shell. I have no doubt that the chromexcel wallet will last me just as long as a shell cordovan wallet. I think people like shell because of it's aesthetics and the patina it develops over time.


Yes, shell cordovan is one of the toughest leathers there is, especially given its thinness. In early WWII service shoes for the infantry were made of cordovan. It would make a very tough, durable wallet.

Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk


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## tigerpac (Jan 23, 2014)

Shell will last longer than CXL in a wallet setting. CXL is soft and will lose its shape over time.


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## Reuben (Aug 28, 2013)

It's thicker, though, correct? I'd imagine the best option for a wallet would be something like kangaroo or quill-less ostrich, thin, flexible, and strong. 


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## tigerpac (Jan 23, 2014)

I believe CXL is thicker than shell. I have a regular horsehide wallet right now that I'm enjoying. Thick but very, very strong.

EDIT: But it can be made in different weights, so I guess it depends


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## Tempest (Aug 16, 2012)

Reuben said:


> It's thicker, though, correct? I'd imagine the best option for a wallet would be something like kangaroo or quill-less ostrich, thin, flexible, and strong.


I agree. Also, a normal leather wallet lasts a decade or so just fine at substantially less cost. I am happily unafflicted with shell cordovan obsession.


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## gaseousclay (Nov 8, 2009)

tigerpac said:


> Shell will last longer than CXL in a wallet setting. CXL is soft and will lose its shape over time.


I frankly can't imagine a scenario where my CXL wallet would become so badly damaged that I'd have to replace it, unless I lost it of course. My current George Costanza wallet is a cheap Relic wallet from Kohls and I've had it for at least 5 yrs. it's got quite a few wear marks from daily use but it's still going strong.

Sent from my tinfoil hat


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## tigerpac (Jan 23, 2014)

You guys are easy on wallets, when I used to get cheapies I'd only get 2-3 years out of them before they were warped. CXL is a great leather so enjoy it, my point was just that if you were looking for the longest wearing wallet, that wouldn't be it. Doesn't mean it can't be great for years and years.



gaseousclay said:


> I frankly can't imagine a scenario where my CXL wallet would become so badly damaged that I'd have to replace it, unless I lost it of course. My current George Costanza wallet is a cheap Relic wallet from Kohls and I've had it for at least 5 yrs. it's got quite a few wear marks from daily use but it's still going strong.
> 
> Sent from my tinfoil hat


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## Tempest (Aug 16, 2012)

tigerpac said:


> You guys are easy on wallets, when I used to get cheapies I'd only get 2-3 years out of them before they were warped.


You mean they were broken in and had taken your shape? I fail to see how this qualifies as being worn out. Lining tear, stitching fails. Leather may wear a bit at the corners, but is anyone actually wearing through a wallet that hasn't earned it's keep twice over?


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## gaseousclay (Nov 8, 2009)

Tempest said:


> You mean they were broken in and had taken your shape? I fail to see how this qualifies as being worn out. Lining tear, stitching fails. Leather may wear a bit at the corners, but is anyone actually wearing through a wallet that hasn't earned it's keep twice over?


That was my point regarding durability between shell cordovan vs CXL. I think everyone would agree that they're both durable. I just disagree with the notion that one will last longer than the other. With proper care they'd both last a lifetime. I think I might feel a little perturbed if I dished out a lot of money for a shell wallet only to lose it or get some sort of tear. With a $79 CXL money clip I don't think I'd cringe as much. But that's me. Again, I love shell but in this instance I decided against owning a shell wallet. Maybe sometime in the future I'll reconsider

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## Birniguy (May 1, 2009)

I've also had a ganzo wallet, though I lost mine (tragic) shortly after I bought it. They are truly beautiful, just another level from any other I've had or seen. I have an ashland now, which is lovely, though it lost a stitch soon after I got it. 

The ganzo is still far better


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## gaseousclay (Nov 8, 2009)

Birniguy said:


> I've also had a ganzo wallet, though I lost mine (tragic) shortly after I bought it. They are truly beautiful, just another level from any other I've had or seen. I have an ashland now, which is lovely, though it lost a stitch soon after I got it.
> 
> The ganzo is still far better


I'm not bashing Ganzo but you guys still haven't given me any reasons why they're better than other makers of shell cordovan wallets. Is the stitching better? The aesthetics? The quality of the shell? Saying something is better without giving examples of why that item is better seems meaningless


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## tigerpac (Jan 23, 2014)

I like how you came to your own conclusion about what I said and then pointed out that I was somehow wrong based on that conclusion.

I did not mean broken in and had taken my shape, I meant warped and said warped. Lost shape and cards would start to get loose.



Tempest said:


> You mean they were broken in and had taken your shape? I fail to see how this qualifies as being worn out. Lining tear, stitching fails. Leather may wear a bit at the corners, but is anyone actually wearing through a wallet that hasn't earned it's keep twice over?


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## Tempest (Aug 16, 2012)

tigerpac said:


> Lost shape and cards would start to get loose.


I have never had this problem, or even heard of it. Is this actually a common issue?


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## Takai (Jun 2, 2013)

I am actually trying to replace my wallet, It's a Relic I've had for the better part of a decade, and before recently I use to stuff cardholders, so now it's slots have a hard time gripping the current cards. I was considering a 1786 wallet, but I will most likely be going with either a Cigar/whiskey shell, or something of a high grade calf, or perhaps I'll just decide to break out my tools and make one myself.


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## gaseousclay (Nov 8, 2009)

Got my black CXL money clip from Mitchell leather yesterday and I like it so far. Think I'll post another pic a year from now to see how well its held up









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## Eric W S (Jun 6, 2012)

gaseousclay said:


> I'm not bashing Ganzo but you guys still haven't given me any reasons why they're better than other makers of shell cordovan wallets. Is the stitching better? The aesthetics? The quality of the shell? Saying something is better without giving examples of why that item is better seems meaningless


There is no reason. I saw the Ganzo's in Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto this fall I was unimpressed. In fact I hold the same position that you do. Care dictates longevity. The posts amount to opinions. I like Lotoff's billfold due to it's folded construction. That impresses me more than two pieces of shell stitched together. I like the Ashland because Phil made one custome for me. Horween Dublin. Mitchell also uses it and it's a beautiful leather.


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