# Fitting advice for coats in general and vintage Woolrich in particular



## tocqueville (Nov 15, 2009)

I've been eying vintage Woolrich on ebay and Etsy (lots of options, by the way). What I can't figure out is sizing. I know what my sport coat measurements are, but I haven't figure out what I should look for in a coat. Is there any rule of thumb regarding, say, my sport coat measurements + a certain number of inches? Obviously one wants to be able to layer underneath, but there's a risk of buying something huge.


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## Monocle (Oct 24, 2012)

I will speak only to the Woolrich part. I have two vtg Woolrich Coats. A classic 1950's Mackinaw long hunting coat in a 46 (my normal size) and it is roomy enough for layering, though those things are uber warm already. The fit is spot on. I also have another mackinaw "cruiser" that is a 40. It sizes up accurately. I personally have not known vintage Woolrich to differ greatly from modern sizes, with the possible exception of a few of their shirts that I have flipped. And those were likely washed by the previous owner. So the coats (to me) seem to be roomy enough for layering if you get your normal size. 


Sent from the Underground.


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## tocqueville (Nov 15, 2009)

Thanks. One challenge is that the size tag on the vintage stuff often is illegible.

I like a lot of of what woolrich is offering in its current catelogue, but to me the Chinese stuff isn't 'real.' It's a simulacrum. The quantity of the vintage stuff on ebay, moreover suggests to me that the old stuff was made particularly well.


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## tocqueville (Nov 15, 2009)

So let's put it this way: if i wear sport coats with a measured chest of 22" to 23.5" and 18.5 to 19.5" shoulders, should i be looking for a coat that measures maybe 25-26" at the chest?


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

Tocque, I responded via PM, but I'll reiterate here. I had no issues with vintage Woolrich Macks in my suit size. I could easily layer a shirt and sweater under them. When I wore it deer hunting, I'd wear a merino base layer, a wool flannel and a fleece vest over that if I needed it and I still had enough freedom to shoulder a shotgun.


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## gamma68 (Mar 24, 2013)

I also think vintage USA-made Woolrich is the way to go. It's just not right to have a "Pennsylvania Tuxedo" that was made in China.

My circa early 1950s Field Coat in buffalo plaid is tagged size 40. It's a little snug but I think I can layer a shirt and sweater underneath, but nothing more.

Last year, I found a circa 1937-38 Woolrich Cruiser jacket tagged size 44, and it fits perfectly. It's lighter than the Field Coat, and I can certainly layer underneath it if needed. But who knows how many times it was washed over the decades (I normally wear a size 39R jacket). Here's a photo:



While the vintage coats are indeed rugged, make sure the seller checks thoroughly for moth holes.

For kicks, here's a page from the 1935 Woolrich catalog (sorry it's gigantic):


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## tocqueville (Nov 15, 2009)

hardline_42 said:


> Tocque, I responded via PM, but I'll reiterate here. I had no issues with vintage Woolrich Macks in my suit size. I could easily layer a shirt and sweater under them. When I wore it deer hunting, I'd wear a merino base layer, a wool flannel and a fleece vest over that if I needed it and I still had enough freedom to shoulder a shotgun.


Hardline, if we had awards to give out for most consistently helpful forum member, you'd be my nominee.


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## tocqueville (Nov 15, 2009)

gamma68 said:


> I also think vintage USA-made Woolrich is the way to go. It's just not right to have a "Pennsylvania Tuxedo" that was made in China.
> 
> My circa early 1950s Field Coat in buffalo plaid is tagged size 40. It's a little snug but I think I can layer a shirt and sweater underneath, but nothing more.
> 
> ...


No, I don't want no Chinese Woolrich. Seems wrong. I wonder how the decision to offshore worked out. Is Woolrich making more money? Maybe it saved the company? Maybe it didn't. Sigh.

There are some great, great vintage items on Ebay and Etsy. I started looking for coats but found a huge array not just of coats but also shirts, shirt jacks, etc.

The one thing I think Filson has over the old Woolrich is that Filson has many options in solid colors. I've long had my eye on the Mac Cruiser in navy, for example. I'd jump at a Woolrich in navy.

This sort of comes close:


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## gamma68 (Mar 24, 2013)

tocqueville said:


> No, I don't want no Chinese Woolrich. Seems wrong. I wonder how the decision to offshore worked out.


Well, based on every other American clothing manufacturer, I guess the move to Asia has worked out rather well.



tocqueville said:


> The one thing I think Filson has over the old Woolrich is that Filson has many options in solid colors. I've long had my eye on the Mac Cruiser in navy, for example. I'd jump at a Woolrich in navy.
> 
> This sort of comes close:


I also have a circa early 1950s Woolrich shirt in buffalo plaid which I like quite a lot.

I hear you about the desire for solids. I really like my Filson wool mackinaw vest, which is a buffalo plaid. But sometimes I wish it were a charcoal. I guess that means I need to buy yet another one!

You might also check out vintage LL Bean items on eBay and Etsy.


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## tocqueville (Nov 15, 2009)

gamma68 said:


> Well, based on every other American clothing manufacturer, I guess the move to Asia has worked out rather well.


I wonder if that's always the case. I guess the logic was unassailable back when everyone made the move, but how has it panned out for everyone? And what happened such that everyone jumped at the same time...was there a change in the tax code? By I digress...


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## godan (Feb 10, 2010)

My 15 year old Woolrich ranch-type coat is a cotton shell with a button-in nylon liner. The size Medium fits my 5'7" 145 lb. body well, usually over a sweater or lined flannel Western style shirt.


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

tocqueville said:


> Hardline, if we had awards to give out for most consistently helpful forum member, you'd be my nominee.


Aww, shucks. I've gotten a lot from this forum over the years. I'm just trying to give back.



tocqueville said:


> The one thing I think Filson has over the old Woolrich is that Filson has many options in solid colors. I've long had my eye on the Mac Cruiser in navy, for example. I'd jump at a Woolrich in navy.


Filson definitely has some more "urban" colors that make their cruisers more versatile. Vintage Woolrich stuff was used mainly for hunting, so aside from a few colors of buffalo plaid, you'll sometimes run across a Mack in solid blaze orange, or my favorite, solid red.


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## tocqueville (Nov 15, 2009)

hardline_42 said:


> Aww, shucks. I've gotten a lot from this forum over the years. I'm just trying to give back.
> 
> Filson definitely has some more "urban" colors that make their cruisers more versatile. Vintage Woolrich stuff was used mainly for hunting, so aside from a few colors of buffalo plaid, you'll sometimes run across a Mack in solid blaze orange, or my favorite, solid red.


I found a solid yellow. It would probably fit me well; can't quite reconcile myself to wearing a big yellow jacket!

https://www.etsy.com/listing/208919...ellow&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

tocqueville said:


> I found a solid yellow. It would probably fit me well; can't quite reconcile myself to wearing a big yellow jacket!
> 
> https://www.etsy.com/listing/208919...ellow&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery


That looks like a camel color to me (not the lemon yellow I expected). I've never seen one that color. I'd wear it.


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## tocqueville (Nov 15, 2009)

hardline_42 said:


> That looks like a camel color to me (not the lemon yellow I expected). I've never seen one that color. I'd wear it.


I shall query the seller. At that price I'm open to risk.

Update: seller says it's straight up bright yellow.


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## EclecticSr. (Sep 21, 2014)

tocqueville said:


> Thanks. One challenge is that the size tag on the vintage stuff often is illegible.
> 
> I like a lot of of what woolrich is offering in its current catelogue, but to me the Chinese stuff isn't 'real.' It's a simulacrum. The quantity of the vintage stuff on ebay, moreover suggests to me that the old stuff was made particularly well.


Not vintage but still made here and 100% wool.

I have a vintage Woolrich in solid red, circa 1963 hunting coat, doesn't fit any longer but I wouldn't part with it. I also have 2 Filson double mackinaw of later vintage, they still fit but I'm only able to layer a sweater underneath. It seems Filson is the only one offering solid colors. I'm sure you'll find something eventually. Good luck.


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## tocqueville (Nov 15, 2009)

EclecticSr. said:


> Not vintage but still made here and 100% wool.
> 
> I have a vintage Woolrich in solid red, circa 1963 hunting coat, doesn't fit any longer but I wouldn't part with it. I also have 2 Filson double mackinaw of later vintage, they still fit but I'm only able to layer a sweater underneath. It seems Filson is the only one offering solid colors. I'm sure you'll find something eventually. Good luck.


I like what I see there. There's also that other company in Minnesota with the funny name that I can never remember. Boumedji or something like that.

This comes in navy: wish the photography was better so that I could tell what the heck the coat looks like.


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## EclecticSr. (Sep 21, 2014)

tocqueville said:


> I like what I see there. There's also that other company in Minnesota with the funny name that I can never remember. Boumedji or something like that.
> 
> This comes in navy: wish the photography was better so that I could tell what the heck the coat looks like.


I didn't see that navy jacket, I just gave you the link I have saved in my favorites. Nice jacket. Sorry I can't help with that other company, doesn't ring a bell.


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## gamma68 (Mar 24, 2013)

There are a number of items that may be of interest under "johnson woolen mills" in the "vintage" category:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/Vintage-/1...dmd=1&_from=R40|R40&_nkw=johnson+woolen+mills


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## gamma68 (Mar 24, 2013)

tocqueville said:


> There's also that other company in Minnesota with the funny name that I can never remember. Boumedji or something like that.


Bemidji Woolen Mills


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## tocqueville (Nov 15, 2009)

gamma68 said:


> Bemidji Woolen Mills


That's them. Another company that needs to invest some money/time into improving its website. Check this out: 30oz wool!
https://www.bemidjiwoolenmills.com/details.php?itemid=bm07_101&dname=voyageurs_jac_coat

And in 28oz:
https://www.bemidjiwoolenmills.com/details.php?itemid=bm07_97&im=bm07_100.jpg


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## gamma68 (Mar 24, 2013)

tocqueville said:


> That's them. Another company that needs to invest some money/time into improving its website. Check this out: 30oz wool!
> https://www.bemidjiwoolenmills.com/details.php?itemid=bm07_101&dname=voyageurs_jac_coat


That's nice. I like it. A lot. Looks like it might compare favorably to Filson.

Are Bemidji's offerings all USA-made?


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## tocqueville (Nov 15, 2009)

ANd this:

https://www.stormykromer.com/products/the-mackinaw-coat.asp


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## tocqueville (Nov 15, 2009)

gamma68 said:


> That's nice. I like it. A lot. Looks like it might compare favorably to Filson.
> 
> Are Bemidji's offerings all USA-made?


I think so but don't know. Like I said, they need to pay their website some attention.

I can't really imagine what 30oz wool would be like.


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## gamma68 (Mar 24, 2013)

tocqueville said:


> ANd this:
> 
> https://www.stormykromer.com/products/the-mackinaw-coat.asp


Yes, Stormy Kromer is another good brand I should have thought of earlier. I have one of their "original" caps that I wear when shoveling snow. But I've also seen their shirts and coats in person, and they've struck me as really robust apparel.


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## Elmer Zilch (Dec 13, 2008)

Yes, Bemidji Woolen Mills. Their pieces turn up a lot at vintage stores here in Chicago and are always worth checking out. USA made, heavy, maybe a little oversized, equivalent to Johnson Woolen Mills, really.

Bemidji is also the setting of FARGO, the TV series. Recommended.


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## linedrive (Apr 24, 2014)

EclecticSr. said:


> Not vintage but still made here and 100% wool.


Is that Cliff Clavin wearing the Jac Shirt? Very funny. 

I've had success with Etsy on my mackinaw jacket I got a few years back.
... Line


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## EclecticSr. (Sep 21, 2014)

linedrive said:


> Is that Cliff Clavin wearing the Jac Shirt? Very funny.
> 
> I've had success with Etsy on my mackinaw jacket I got a few years back.
> 
> ... Line


Yes it is. Part of a TV series he did about "Made In America" I believe that is what it was called. Etsy is a great place to find many vintage items.


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