# When to raise, lower, or shorten collar of suit jacket or sportcoat?



## Strategery (Jan 12, 2010)

Can anyone describe the problem on the back of the jacket when these alterations need to made? Folds, creases, bubbles, lumps? I know that shortening the collar is a more labor-intensive process, but I do not know WHY it's done. Any feedback would be appreciated. I am trying to learn how to do some alterations.


----------



## PJC in NoVa (Jan 23, 2005)

According to my alterations tailor, my square and broad shoulders cause a set of rumples to appear in between and just above my shoulder blades when I wear suit and sport jackets. The long axis of the rumples runs parallel to the ground; it looks, in other words, bit like I'm smuggling a package of hot dogs back there.

The operation of "shortening the collar" is what he calls the fix for this.


----------



## Andy (Aug 25, 2002)

Two common fit problems with a suit or sport jacket collar. Both are relatively easy alterations. Thanks to Alan Flusser for the illustrations.

The first is that the jacket collar doesn't fit against your shirt collar (which should fit against your neck).: 









The tailor would have to "raise" the jacket collar to make it fit.

The second is when there is excess fabric under the collar:











The tailor should "lower or shorten" the collar of a suit or sport jacket if fabric is bunching up under the collar at the top of the back. This is a common fit problem, and is caused by having square or high shoulders (more square than the suit) or by an erect posture. The wrinkle can be removed by pushing the excess fabric up into the collar seam.

Another cause is that the jacket is tight across the back or prominent shoulder blades. The jacket is stressed and rolls up. When the back width is corrected (by trying on a larger jacket size) there may be no need to lower the collar.


----------



## Strategery (Jan 12, 2010)

Thank you! Wonderful feedback with pictures.

Can I ask the difference now between lowering and shortening the collar? What is the real difference and when would you want to do which? Thank you again.


----------



## Leighton (Nov 16, 2009)

Are those alterations simple ones?

My brother had one done and it turned out horrifically. The middle bottom of the jacket just bunched up like it was being pulled. It was a sore alterations episode.


----------



## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

Lowering the collar I understand is a fairly simple alteration to remove creases in the upper back. It involves taking in the seam between the collar and the back panels. Shortening the collar I understand is much more involved, as it involves removing the collar and re-cutting it to make it shorter, which must be done to take in the top of the rear centre seam. This helps if the collar stands away from the neck. If you have a very erect posture you'll rarely have this problem.


----------



## Strategery (Jan 12, 2010)

No?

Is there a difference between lowering and shortening the collar?


----------



## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

Strategery said:


> No?
> 
> Is there a difference between lowering and shortening the collar?


Lowering the collar just takes in fabric at the seam between the collar and back panels. Shortening the collar involves shortening the collar circumference. Imagine it was a shirt collar and making the collar size smaller.


----------

