# Original Royal Navy Duffle Coat...



## n/a (Sep 4, 2002)

I recieved my real Royal Navy surplus duffle coat that I had ordered last week, thanks to the link posted by someone in the "Barbour Duffle" thread (seriously, thank you!). I believe at least one other board member had expressed an interest in hearing my evaluation of it once I had recieved it, so here it goes:

It is obviously genuine RN surplus, evidences by the sailor who wrote his name on the coatrack-tab and the little, white tag sewn in that reads the military product number, etc. There is some wear in a few areas, but nothing that would prevent me from using it. It's a size "1", which in RN-speak is apparantly a "small", and it fits me well up top. I usually wear about a 39-40R, and am 5'11". Its straight-cut, which mean that down bottom it fits like a blanket, but of course this is how a duffle coat is supposed to fit.

The most striking thing about it is how incredibly thick and heavy the wool is. This coat is at least 3-4 times heavier than my Gloveral Duffle. I haven't put it on a scale, but this coat weighs at least 5-7 pounds altogether. I imagine it's incredibly warm (haven't tested it outside yet). Putting it on feals like donning a suit of armour. Its obvious that this coat was designed to do its job: keeping sailors warm and dry while on-deck. After trying it on for a while, my Gloverall feels like a t-shirt. Even the Tibbett I had waxed poetically about in a previous thread doesn't even compare.

The sleaves are obnoxiously long. I imagine they were designed this way intentionally, as I've never before seen anyone who would wear this size chest and shoulders with 42" arms. This may have been great for a sailor battling the wind and waves, but I'm going to have to adapt it to my rather civilized daily life by hemming them up a bit. Also, I may have the sides taken in a bit. But the length-wise the coat is great - it falls just above my knees.

Lastly, the hood is actually usuable, a complain I've always had about most duffle coats I've seen. It is comfortably large enough to accomodate my head. It's rather pointy when worn up, because its made from one piece of fabric, unlike the "pancake"-style popularized by Gloverall. There is no throat-latch, which was a tad disappointing (I've seen some pictures in which they had them, and others in which they didn't, so I assume that like most military items there were multiple contractors). But it does have the sleave tabs, which secure by bakelite-like buttons (not metal snaps like in some of the pictures I've seen, which I'd probably like a little better).

Anyway, I hope some of you find this interesting. Overall, I'd say that I'm very happy, especially considering it was only $100. And you really can't get any more original that the Real Deal, a genuine Royal Navy surplus. But as I've said above, its going to need a little adaptation to put into daily use: shortening the sleaves, and perhaps taken in a bit in the sides. Unlike any other duffle coat I've ever worn, I would actually count on this things to keep me warm (Even the BB and Burberry duffles that I've tried on don't compare in this respect).

JD


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Oh God, I so desperately want a coat exactly like that! I somehow knew deep down that the genuine military issue coats had to have been much thicker than the civilian knock-offs we get today. Please, can you: Re-post the link to where you got it, and if possible post some photos and measurements on AAAC.

By the way, the original solution to long sleeves was to just roll them back, Note the photos I posted of David Sterling on that other thread. I would be wary of modifying a historical relic like yours.

Also, the pointed hood effect is typical of all early hooded jackets and coats (including bashlyks and capotes); modern sensibilities don't seem to accept this reality.

DD


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## n/a (Sep 4, 2002)

DD,

The link is here:



I'll have to go back and look at the picture of Sterling, which was what originally made me fall in love with the duffle coat (plus Dead Poets Society, and an article in GQ about 8 years back). I'll try to take some pics and post some measurements.

JD


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## Smudger (Jun 11, 2005)

JD,

Glad you were able to find one. Your thoughts are mine also. I bought mine when I was in the Air Force stationed in England. If one needs a larger size, one might try surfing the net for Army-Navy surplus stores in Great Britain. There are many military buffs in GB hopefully we can find someone who can answer some questions about the origin of the coat. I have heard, but cannot remember where, that the coat originated during WW1 and that it was called a convoy coat originally. If anyone has answers to these questions please let us know.

Regards,
Bill

Mollydog


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Thanks for the link, JD. As the following photo shows, I was wrong about Sterling rolling up his sleeves, but I've definitely seen it in period photos.



To add to our collective knowledge, here's a great article on RCN dress at sea (the 5th paragraph describes duffle coats):



And here's a nice photo of an Aussie sailor in duffle coat:



DD


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## Kav (Jun 19, 2005)

When the U.S. military first copied Inuit parkas several details in the sewing were'improved.'The result was a disaster of unwiedly and cold failure. The ancient pointed hood serves multiple purposes, to trap warm air and to act as a counterbalance ( often with an inner hat acting as a bearing) and move the hood enough with the head so you can see out of the things. As you can see in the Desert Rat pic, worn down it folds flat upon itself. The lack of a throatlatch is easily corrected with either a matching pair of binoculars, or a period pistol lanyard running to the pocket. You can attach a Cellphone, ipod or flask to it, Webley revolvers having skyrocketed in value


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## tintin (Nov 19, 2004)

Thanks for the description JD. Sounds like you have someting with real and great character. The re enactment shop is a 'burb of Chicago. I'll check 'em out but am sure they're gonna be too small.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Truly an over-garment, as this photo proves...



DD


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## xcubbies (Jul 31, 2005)

JD, as for the fit at the chest, would you say that it is still roomy for you as a 39/40R? I wear a 40R and want to make sure it's not too tight. I think there's a few left.


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## Mr. Knightly (Sep 1, 2005)

Mine arrived today. 

You really weren't joking: this thing is heavy. I really would describe it as a horse blanket. It's not the kind of thing that I would even really think about coordinating with my outfit. I just throw it on and I'm enveloped in scratchy, unbelievably thick, warm wool. Mine doesn't have a throat latch either but if I do up the top toggle it pulls the throat very tight anyway. The arms were the same on mine too--extremely long. I just rolled them up and I don't think I'll bother getting them changed, after all, it's supposed to be casual and that way I'm not messing with an original.

The only thing that surprised me was that the coat is kind of dirty. I brushed it off pretty thoroughly so you can't really see it but I can tell it needs to be cleaned. However, considering it's from a surplus store and I only paid 100, I'm not really about to complain.

I'm excited to put it to use. Thanks for the heads up on this.

Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy,
But not express'd in fancy; rich, not gaudy;
For the apparel oft proclaims the man.


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## Smudger (Jun 11, 2005)

Gentleman,

It may be too late for everyone but I recently purchased a Chinese made melton wool coat which pasees reasonaly for a duffel coat. It cost $30!!! The quality of construction is reasonable and it is very warm and useful to keep handy when I need to dash to the grocery etc..thus sparing my other duffles for other occasions. The company's name is Sportsman's Guide and I have misplaced their catalog. Good hunting!!
Bill

Mollydog


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## Tom Buchanan (Nov 7, 2005)

> quote:_Originally posted by Smudger_
> 
> Gentleman,
> 
> ...


Bill/Smudger/Mollydog,

Thanks for the tip. Certainly not a fully authentic duffel, but very interesting for the price. Would be great for errands, as you say. Can you tell me anything about the quality and warmth of the coat? It looks kind of thin on the website. Would you wear it on a cold winter day in the Northeast? Thanks in advance for your reply.

Regards,
Tom


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## Smudger (Jun 11, 2005)

Tom et al.

The coat is quite warm and looks very good...but it does not have a blanket lining; instead it has a slick acetate type of lining which is functional, helping to get the coat on and off. Layered with a sweater or tweed jacket would make quite warm in Northeastern Winters. It is well worth the price!!

Bill

Mollydog


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## Tom Buchanan (Nov 7, 2005)

> quote:_Originally posted by Smudger_
> 
> Tom et al.
> 
> ...


Thanks Bill! I ordered one. For $30, what the heck. Now, I just need to put some Gloverall replacement rope and blond wood toggles on it. If anyone else is interested, the link is below.

https://www.sportsmansguide.com/cb/cb.asp?p=WX2&i=83296


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## General Koskov (Jan 2, 2004)

A note on the article to which a link was posted: the author mentions 'round rig' and 'square rig' but mixes them up. Square rig was what seamen wore and was called such because of the square collar on the jumper (and the phrase comes from a genre of sail arrangements on a ship). Round rig was a name given to officers' and petty officer's reefer jackets. This name has no meaning other than being used as an opposite to 'square.' The other opposite phrase that is preferred is 'fore-and-aft' rig, which is actually another genre of sail arrangement on a ship.

_At afternoon funerals, wear a frock coat and top hat. Should the funeral be your own, the hat may be dispensed with.
--The Cynic's Rules of Conduct. 1905 
_


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## n/a (Sep 4, 2002)

> quote:_Originally posted by xcubbies_
> 
> JD, as for the fit at the chest, would you say that it is still roomy for you as a 39/40R? I wear a 40R and want to make sure it's not too tight. I think there's a few left.


Sorry about the delayed response. There is definitely plenty of room for someone who wears a 40R, or even slightly larger. I am under the impression that the wooden toggles were meant to be moved and adjusted to each sailor, because they are not symetrical, and there is a very long reinforcement sewn in on the underside, which would seem to be designed to support various attachment points for the ropes. I'd venture to guess that these duffles would fit up to about a size 42 chest comfortably.

JD


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## Smudger (Jun 11, 2005)

Tom,

Have you received your gray coat yet? Please let me know your opinion. One of my professional collegues, a Candanian physician who served in the Canadian Navy not to long ago, says that there is a genuine Navy colored version of the tan RN duffle. I am searching the net for surplus stores which may carry them and will let everyone know when the cache is discovered somewhere.
Regards,
Bill

Mollydog


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## n/a (Sep 4, 2002)

If you find a source for the navy Royal Navy duffle coat, let me know. I would invest.

Cheers,
Harris


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## Mr. Knightly (Sep 1, 2005)

Is reenact sold out? Or do they not have your size?

Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy,
But not express'd in fancy; rich, not gaudy;
For the apparel oft proclaims the man.


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## Tom Buchanan (Nov 7, 2005)

> quote:_Originally posted by Smudger_
> 
> Tom,
> 
> ...


Bill,

Got the coat last night. Thanks again for the tip. Word for others, if you are between sizes, pick the smaller. These things are cut very generously. I am not wild about the cruiser collar (which I knew before I ordered it) under the hood. But for $37, it is a good solid coat. I still might order some replacement rope and toggles from Gloverall. If reenact carried genuine surplus duffel's in my size, then I would *definately * have gone in that direction instead. Thanks.

Tom


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## n/a (Sep 4, 2002)

> quote:_Originally posted by Mr. Knightly_
> 
> Is reenact sold out? Or do they not have your size?


I get the impression that Harris prefers navy, rather than camel/tan.

JD


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## n/a (Sep 4, 2002)

Yes. I do prefer the navy. I already own a tan camel hair polo coat, and thus am not in need of more tan colored outerwear.

Cheers,
Harris


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## Buckie303 (Dec 17, 2005)

Have any of you had your RN duffle cleaned. I love mine , but it could use it. I am a little leery. Thanks-Jeff


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## Mr. Knightly (Sep 1, 2005)

I opted to brush it a lot and it actually seems clean after a few wearings. It was really just dusty, not dirty. If I had to clean it though, I'd soak it in a bathtub with woolite.

Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy,
But not express'd in fancy; rich, not gaudy;
For the apparel oft proclaims the man.


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## crazyquik (Jun 8, 2005)

> quote:_Originally posted by Tom Buchanan_
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I have purchased 4 coats from sportsmans guide. They have pretty good military surplus stuff, new and used, though sometimes they exaggerate...

A modern German milsurp parka. The best and warmest $20 coat I've ever seen. It was new too!

A modern Norwegian milsurp parka. Knee length, all buttons, no zips, and was also new. No hood though. $25ish. They have a Swedish parka for $40 which also looks very warm and has a hood.

A Swiss overcoat, made in the mid 50s I think. Long, blue-grey, wool coat. https://www.sportsmansguide.com/cb/cb.asp?a=241169 Kinda regret it, but its old and neat and was $15.

And I thought I was buying a German Navy milsurp 6 button DB blazer, but instead got an 8 button cross between a peacoat and blazer.

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Beware of showroom sales-fever reasoning: i.e., "for $20 . . ." Once you're home, how little you paid is forgotten; how good you look in it is all that matters.


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## Seaforth (Apr 12, 2005)

I have one of these coats manufactured by a company called remploy I believe and as I recall they came in three sizes, aptly size 1,2,3 with 3 being the largest.

My coat is a number 3, and it is huge, just the way I like it. I wore this elephantine coat in London last week on the coldest mornings. 

I have no idea where you would find these coats but they are worth looking around for, by far my favourite cold day dog walking coat - very heavy, very warm.

Good luck

BR


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## 15152 (Oct 17, 2004)

JD, out of interest can you tell us exactly what was written on the label, ie designation, stock number etc?


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## Krieghund (Jun 3, 2011)

Hallo from Serbia,

i am a great fan of UK and as part of that is style ..

i have read this article about Royal Navy surplus duffle coat original ..

here is a link ..
https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?45471-Original-Royal-Navy-Duffle-Coat...

so when yoou read can you please find me this one? 
I do not mean on Chinese but the UK surplus contact adress
the biggest size you can find//
I know it was a long time a go but ...
there he mentioned size 1 but i am larger ..i need the biggest size made..

all the best 
PS: If you can not help me please send this emai to anyone in UK who can ...
email [email protected]


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