# Dress Pants Help



## drew1 (Jan 17, 2011)

I currently just wear jeans but would definitely want to buy some dress pants. I live in nyc and am in my mid 20s.

I googled a bunch online and still have a few questions. I don't want to spend a lot of money on those expensive brands. I actually like brands such as Banana republic and express though many of you say BR is overpriced and express is just garbage.

I would like to buy 2 pairs of dress pants.

1. Wool or cotton? I read online wool is the best fabric but you need to take care of it. However, sometimes wearing wool pants might be overdressed. Is this true? I also heard one should not wear wool whenever its the summer. Does this statement always hold true as well? I read cotton is a really good fabric and cheaper and that is what people wear in summer. But still many people wear cotton dress pants during winter as well right? You can go for a job interview wearing cotton dress pants right or am i wrong?

2. What color to buy? I read online if you were to only buy 1 dress pant, get it in black because it goes with everything. Is this true? Someone mentioned that it isn't as versatile as it is made out to be. And if you were to buy only 1 dress pant, what color would it be and would it be wool or cotton?

3. Can someone recommend me what brand to purchase? I don't want to spend a lot of money on it like most of you guys who spend $300 and up on a dress pant. Express prices are very good but some people say they wear out fast and shrink. A guy messaged me and told me he had express producer pants and they fit okay but wearing out, whereas a banana republic classic fit wool pants fit so well. Would Banana republic be an okay choice? I don't want to wear anythinng like Gap though because i know their quality for dress pants seem to be lower quality than BR.

4. I want to purchase 2 dress pants. Would you suggest i buy 1 black and 1 grayish or charcoal color? Can someone tell me what is the difference between a gray dress pants and charcoal dress pants? i feel like i have to buy 1 black dress pant. Also, if i were to buy 2, would you suggest one wool and one cotton or 2 wool or 2 cotton? I'm thinking 1 black wool dress pant and 1 gray cotton dress pant?

These are the dress pants im looking at. The first one is in wool and there is black or midgray. The other 3 are dress pants in COTTON. Is charcoal more blackish or grayish? And which of the cotton dress pants would you guys say look the best? And is there a reason why wool only cost 20 dollars more than their cotton dress pants? I am looking to buy 2 dress pants. Would definitely like if someone can help me here. Thanks.

https://bananarepublic.gap.com/browse/product.do?cid=34724&vid=1&pid=762497&scid=762497002

https://bananarepublic.gap.com/browse/product.do?cid=34724&vid=1&pid=802747

https://bananarepublic.gap.com/browse/product.do?cid=34724&vid=1&pid=802744

https://bananarepublic.gap.com/browse/product.do?cid=34724&vid=1&pid=802746

I tried the first one at the banana republic store today in grey and black in wool and wow it feels so good but didn't buy it because still unsure. I didn't want to have 2 wool dress pants and no cotton dress pants. The cotton however, doesn't feels cheaper though its only $20 less.


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## Timeless Fashion (Apr 12, 2009)

Most people would say that dress pants should be wool and casual pants cotton, although this is not a rule set in stone.

It depends what setting you want to wear these pants to. Do you work in a conservative setting or casual setting? If you work in a casual setting, you may be fine wearing cotton khaki/chinos.

Charcoal is just a dark shade of gray. Gray wool pants will be fairly conservative and should be a staple in all men's wardrobe. If you want a pair of more casual pants, I would get a khaki colored chinos as your second pair of pants.


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## ilikeyourstyle (Apr 24, 2007)

I agree with the above comments. If I could own just one pair of dress pants, I would opt for a dark grey. Charcoal would be perfect. My second pair would be a lighter grey, but that's because I don't care to wear black pants. I would go with wool for dress pants and save cotton for any casual pants you care to own.

I own a pair of charcoal wool BR dress pants, and I love them. Make sure they fit you well, though, because I find a lot of the newer styles of BR pants are too tight.


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## drew1 (Jan 17, 2011)

hey i saw a real nice wool grayish wool dress pant i like. I am about 5'8 tall. How tall are you? I normally wear 32/30 but when i tried it on, while wearing my loafers, it didn't seem to cover my loafer fully and i could still see my socks when standing up. Is that way too short? Normally any jeans i buy that is 32/30 its perfect in terms of the length. Is banana republic dress pants shorter am i making a mistake here and they are perfect length?


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## CuffDaddy (Feb 26, 2009)

Good thing you've come here, because you've gotten some pretty questionable information. First off, forget the nonsense about wool not being for summer. Those white robes the bedouins wear in the desert? Wool. What you need is the appropriate weight wool. No, you don't want to be wearing 14 oz flannel wool in late July. But a tropical wool in a light weight will wear cooler than most cotton, will hold a pressing, shed dirt, etc. *If you are contemplating buying your first pair - or first ten pairs - of dress trousers, do not fool around with anything but wool*.

Regarding color, you will find grey and tan to be the most flexible, with grey reading as slightly dressier. Black is a suboptimal choice for many, many reasons. Olive, mid-brown, and a greyish blue are also decent choices for when you're adding more pairs later on. But I'd start with grey, then tan, then grey of another shade (either lighter or darker, depending on how light or dark your first pair was).

As others have noted, lots of mass-market retailers are pushing a decidedly non-classic fit. Avoid this. Dress pants are _not_ supposed to fit like jeans. They should ride higher, at your natural waist, rather than on your hips. They should not be snug anywhere but the waistband. There should not be stress lines/wrinkles radiating from your crotch when you stand at ease. The front and back creases should hang straight down; the trouser legs should not cling/catch/bind on the thighs, at the knees, or anywhere else. Salesmen may try to sell you something tighter as being more "modern," but that just guarantees you'll be back in a year or two for a different style. If you're used to wearing jeans, properly-fitting dress trousers may feel strange, or "billowy," but you'll soon realize that they are far more comfortable than jeans.


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## CuffDaddy (Feb 26, 2009)

drew1 said:


> hey i saw a real nice wool grayish wool dress pant i like. I am about 5'8 tall. How tall are you? I normally wear 32/30 but when i tried it on, while wearing my loafers, it didn't seem to cover my loafer fully and i could still see my socks when standing up. Is that way too short? Normally any jeans i buy that is 32/30 its perfect in terms of the length. Is banana republic dress pants shorter am i making a mistake here and they are perfect length?


Proper dress pants should come unhemmed so that you can have an alterations tailor give you the right leg length. Ignore pre-hemmed stuff... that's an excellent sign that the pants are garbage marketed towards people who mainly buy jeans and expect dress pants to work the same.


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## nosajwols (Jan 27, 2010)

I agree with all the above and I would like to reinforce the grey (mid to dark) as the first pair.

As for cotton, my comment here is ease of care. Although they tend to be more casual I wear them in summer not because I find them cooler (compared to summer weight wool) but because I can easily wash them at home (almost free cleaning) as opposed to dry cleaning ($$). I have a few pairs that get a lot of summer wear on the really hot sweaty days. The cotton pants I also see as more disposable, I tend to only get a season out of them before they start to look worn (wool lasts a lot longer in my experience, likely due to less need for cleaning).

Avoid pre-hemmed wool pants or if you must buy them you could always go 2 inches longer and take them to a tailor to get them reduced to the exact size.


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

remember to wear your dress trousers at your waist not on the hips. or you will look like a high school kid.

avoid black trousers unless your job is security guard, or waiter, or buss boy, or washroom attendant.


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## dwebber18 (Jun 5, 2008)

I'll pretty much agree with everything CuffDaddy has said. I'm almost 26, and during college I realized I needed to dress a little better as I was going to start job hunting. That meant going to Belk and buying some ployester "dress" pants in khaki and black. After a few years of those pants and a few I added on I realize I made a mistake. My office is very casual and I'm usually dressed better than most in a button down shirt and cotton khakis. So I expanded my wardrobe in to nice cotton khakis, and very few proper wool dress pants. I have been looking to expand my line of wool dress pants and I can not stomach wearing the polyester type anymore(they honestly don't come out of the closet). You don't need to spend a ton of money, I was in the BB outlet here over the weekend and got 4 pairs of wool dress pants for under $50 each. Yes wool does technically take more effort in regards to care but unless you are sweaty, smelly, or get something on them you can wear them a few times before they require dry cleaning. As to colors I would get charcoal gray and navy, or some version of brown to start with. Stay away from black for all the connotations expressed above. As to BR, my wife likes some of their items from the outlet, and their ladies wool pants and suits seem to be alright especially for the price but just be careful that they seem to be made well and are on sale. Also, if you don't mind used items check out ebay or Goodwill as you can get some great deals. In regards to prehemmed pants, there is nothing wrong with them. Yes unhemmed would be best so you can get them the exact length you want, but if you try on the pants and are careful in judging the length then they will look great. No reason to pass up a good pair of pants on a good sale just because they already have finished hems.


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## Buffalo (Nov 19, 2003)

All very good advice here. As you live in NYC now is the time to go to Brooks Brothers clearance sale and pick up some wool dress trousers which come in various fits including a newer slim fit milano version.


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## medhat (Jan 15, 2006)

Wasn't expecting to disagree with some of the more distinguished members of the forum, but I think, for starters, drew1 can get away with nicely fitting cotton pants (remember gang, he said he's coming from a "jeans all the time" position). Yes, of course wool is more appropriate, and yes, it's what I wear, but I'm not in my 20's anymore and I wouldn't think twice about if a younger co-worker work cotton trousers. Now I'm not talking about the baggy wrinkly chinos I wear around on weekends, I'm talking about trousers in a dressier cotton fabric that has a crease (cuffs are optional). THEN let him move on to wool. One step at a time.

Oh, but please, as someone else mentioned, have it fit. Not collecting in puddles over the shoes, and not showing underwear.

As far as colors, it seems safe to assume it's not going to be worn with a sportcoat/blazer (at this point). I've not seen grey cotton trousers I like, so I vote for dark blue and dress khaki.

Last, I appreciate that others may disagree. That's something I especially like about the Forum.


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## TheGreatTwizz (Oct 27, 2010)

If buying pre-hemmed pants, simply buy a size or two longer inseam (in your case, a 32x32 or 32x34), so the tailor has enough material to hem them properly.

Do NOT discount the importance of having them hemmed. This is a simple operation that can take place nearly anywhere (dry cleaners included), and many men have differing inseams on each leg. It makes you look 1000 times more put together!!


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

TheGreatTwizz said:


> If buying pre-hemmed pants, simply buy a size or two longer inseam (in your case, a 32x32 or 32x34), so the tailor has enough material to hem them properly.
> 
> Do NOT discount the importance of having them hemmed. This is a simple operation that can take place nearly anywhere (dry cleaners included), and many men have differing inseams on each leg. It makes you look 1000 times more put together!!


Don't be so sure that all dry cleaners know how to hem trousers properly. Mine cannot hem trousers at an angle.


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## DoghouseReilly (Jul 25, 2010)

I am in my twenties and to work I wear cotton khakis in the summer, corduroy in the dead of winter, and flannel in the middle. All are uncuffed and plain front, as per my preference. I pair them with OCBDs and add a wool, crewneck sweater when it gets cold. 

For cheaper wool slacks, check eBay and Jos. A Bank. I got some Joesph flannels there for around $50 over the summer. Lands End also has gabardines in their overstock section for around $50. The best place for khakis is eBay or your local thrift store. My best khakis were $3.

Where are you planning to wear them? When you go out with your friends or to work? This is probably the most important question. If you favor polo shirts, they might look funny with wool slacks. If that is your intention, I would stick with khakis at work and jeans when out. As for going out with friends, I mainly wear khakis, jeans, or cords cut like jeans. I would be rather uncomfortable palling around dive bars in a jacket, tie, flannels and cap toes.

However you dress, make sure you are consistent. And make sure your clothes fit, as others have said.


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

DoghouseReilly said:


> I am in my twenties and to work I wear cotton khakis in the summer, corduroy in the dead of winter, and flannel in the middle.


If your flannel isn't warmer than corduroy then you don't have the right stuff. Traditional wool flannel trousers are pretty much warmer than anything. Cavalry twill is also good in colder weather, though not as warm as flannel. And for summer, I find tropical wool trousers to be better in heat than cotton. It really breathes well and looks more professional because it holds a crease better and won't wrinkle as much. Mid-season trousers could be gabardine and serge.


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## drew1 (Jan 17, 2011)

Would you say those dress pants i posted are decent? And if i were to get 2 of those 5 choices i put, which ones would you guys recommend?


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## TheGreatTwizz (Oct 27, 2010)

Matt S said:


> Don't be so sure that all dry cleaners know how to hem trousers properly. Mine cannot hem trousers at an angle.


Agreed Matt. Neither can my dry cleaner (but she can most certainly press the proper roll in a jacket). My point was that this would be better alternative than OTR offerings.


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## medhat (Jan 15, 2006)

drew1 said:


> Would you say those dress pants i posted are decent? And if i were to get 2 of those 5 choices i put, which ones would you guys recommend?


agree that you should steer clear of black. Couldn't open the link any longer (my just be my computer). If you can manage it, I think the tailored fit BR looks nicer than the regular fit. I'd vote for charcoal if you're looking at wool, khaki if you're going with cotton, but it's quite a bit more casual.


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## MicTester (Oct 8, 2009)

CuffDaddy said:


> Proper dress pants should come unhemmed so that you can have an alterations tailor give you the right leg length. Ignore pre-hemmed stuff... that's an excellent sign that the pants are garbage marketed towards people who mainly buy jeans and expect dress pants to work the same.


True. In fact, as you move along keep this in mind even for jeans. No need to walk out of the store even with jeans the way they come. You worry about the waist and the length is always a matter of measuring and tailoring. Good stores have tailors in house and jeans can be hemmed any way you want.


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## drew1 (Jan 17, 2011)

Can someone tell me why BLACK is such a bad color?? I thought black was the most versatile and if one needed one dress pant, it would be black as i read online.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^
Hoping not to set off another of those never ending debates regarding the propriety of wearing black for anything other than a funeral, etc., The stark reality is that black is a colour that either looks smashing or really, really bad on the wearer (ie: a beautiful woman in the proverbial, little black dress or a slightly stocky man in oversized dust encrusted black jeans/trousers!). LOL. There really is not much "in-between" on this one!


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## CuffDaddy (Feb 26, 2009)

drew1 said:


> Can someone tell me why BLACK is such a bad color?? I thought black was the most versatile and if one needed one dress pant, it would be black as i read online.


eagle hits one point. Another is that, particularly if you are looking at less expensive pants, black tends to wear poorly, often fading or shining quickly at any wear points. Another is that it is NOT particularly flexible, requiring cool or primary or monochrome colors for pairing, as opposed to grey, which will also work with earth tones (browns, olives, rusts, etc.). That problem extends to shoes - wear black pants, and you're mostly stuck with black shoes only. Grey pants get along with black shoes, brown shoes, burgundy/cordovan/oxblood shoes, and even tan shoes. Another is that, in the hands of many dressers, black pants suggest that, in fact, they really _are_ your only pair of dress pants. Yet another is that black trousers look terrible with many sportcoats, and awful with a navy blazer.

Here's a hint: If someone calls a pair of pants a "pant," that person's advice should be ignored. That is a fashionista/retailer term, not a term used by those who are speaking the language of traditional, widely-accepted men's clothing.


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## medhat (Jan 15, 2006)

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> Hoping not to set off another of those never ending debates regarding the propriety of wearing black for anything other than a funeral, etc., The stark reality is that black is a colour that either looks smashing or really, really bad on the wearer (ie: a beautiful woman in the proverbial, little black dress or a slightly stocky man in oversized dust encrusted black jeans/trousers!). LOL. There really is not much "in-between" on this one!


Funny, I never thought of that, but I typically find the "little black dress" very flattering on women, but we do frown on black clothing for men (formal attire aside). Full disclosure, I think the reason the little black dress works (in my mind, at least) is that it typically has both a slimming effect, and can "moderate" some contours better than other colors.


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## temple_gym (Oct 10, 2010)

IMO,
1) Consider a wool blend (not as warm as 100% wool). I know cos I come from a tropical country  Forget about any polyester. It shines under hot iron. And wool is more durable.
2) Colors? Navy, Black, Dark Grey. For smart casual, consider Dockers?
As for wearing the right type of pants, it really depends on the kind of job. If u r in the creative field for instance, I guess jeans (not torn jeans) is ok.

Hope this helps and gd luck for your interview


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## drew1 (Jan 17, 2011)

Hey everyone. Someone mentioned me to go to Daffy's and get some mabitex pants. Isn't Daffy's products considered cheap and lesser quality? I think i been there only 1 time before. If it cost $30 a pair, that seems pretty cheap. Is the quality similar to banana republic or worst?


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## drew1 (Jan 17, 2011)

Hey guys so if i buy one wool and one cotton, would the best color be just gray for both?


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## medhat (Jan 15, 2006)

how 'bout dark blue for the cotton.


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## Leighton (Nov 16, 2009)

medhat said:


> how 'bout dark blue for the cotton.


Doesn't go well with many colors of jacket. Pretty much only goes with a grey jacket off the top of my head. Goes fine with no jacket.


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## shorty (Oct 5, 2009)

drew1 said:


> Hey guys so if i buy one wool and one cotton, would the best color be just gray for both?


1 grey flannel wool trouser
1 cotton khaki

Those two should be in every guy's closet. Knock yourself out on whatever brand fits and looks good on you for you will keep replacing them as needed for the rest of your life. If you go with higher quality, the less you have to replace them. Eventually, you'll learn which brand you like. Enjoy the journey.


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## drew1 (Jan 17, 2011)

Does it have to be khaki? What about a chino pants from BR? As in a white color one? Would that be okay?


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^
Just a thought but, you will get far more use out of a pair of khaki colored chinos, than you would from white or even stone colored chinos. To my eyes, white seems a rather limiting color for trousers! Good luck in this quest you seem to be on.


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## echappist (Dec 14, 2007)

bumping this.

So I will be starting my first real-world job at a federal government agency that's probably as business like as the fed government can get. I have two pairs of wearable dress trousers (charcoal and tan), with a third one (grey) available should i slim down my waist by one inch. The tan and grey trousers are orphans from suits, and I have no idea for how much longer I can use them.

I like wool, but I'm somewhat put off by the cleaning needed. Furthermore, I want something on the hardy side. Ideally, I would like to spend less than $60 (more than what I paid for the pair of new BB charcoal trouser mentioned above) on each pair of trousers. How many pairs should I buy? And any particular brands you would recommend if I can't score another one or two from eBay? I was thinking of getting 4-5 pairs for now so that I can have enough money left for a blazer or a sport coat.

Also, are sport coats a bit too casual for business casual? I have a very well-worn (and cherished) J-Press plaid sportcoat, but I have the feeling that it's not "dressy" enough.


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## CuffDaddy (Feb 26, 2009)

echappist, don't fret too much over the cleaning. Wool, unlike cotton, sheds dirt and odors pretty effectively. Wool trousers need very infrequent cleaning unless you are sweating heavily in them, spill food, sit on dirty seats, etc.


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## firedancer (Jan 11, 2011)

^ + 1. That's if you get a good rotation and don't wear the same pair more than twice a week. 
Also, it you have a body type that would crease them at all ( waist or crotch) a steamer could be your friend. A good clothes brush as well should you spill anything that. Rees Ti be cleaned off.


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## Wimsey (Jan 28, 2006)

echappist said:


> Also, are sport coats a bit too casual for business casual? I have a very well-worn (and cherished) J-Press plaid sportcoat, but I have the feeling that it's not "dressy" enough.


It's hard to know *exactly* what people mean by terms until you actually work in the office. But in most places, a sportscoat is at the dressy end of business casual, with wool trousers and dress shirts (no tie) being next, and then dress pants and polos (some places) or khakis and polos coming next. Sometimes business casual means "don't wear shorts."

Business casual almost never means "wear a suit"; in fact, it means "don't wear a suit."


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## echappist (Dec 14, 2007)

thanks to all for the responses. I think i'll go get 3-4 pairs to get started



Wimsey said:


> It's hard to know *exactly* what people mean by terms until you actually work in the office. But in most places, a sportscoat is at the dressy end of business casual, with wool trousers and dress shirts (no tie) being next, and then dress pants and polos (some places) or khakis and polos coming next. Sometimes business casual means "don't wear shorts."
> 
> Business casual *almost never means "wear a suit"; *in fact, it means "don't wear a suit."


You should have seen the people at my school this past few weeks when it was on-campus recruiting/interviewing season. A "casual" event means dress shirt, no jeans, and leather shoes, and if an event is "business casual," the black balmorals and grey suits gets brought out. Pretty funny, actually, as the people representing the companies at the info sessions are most often dressed less formally than the students are.


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## echappist (Dec 14, 2007)

quick update.

So after a few weeks, I've added the following:

A pair of medium grey 
A pair of navy 
A pair of solid brown 
A pair of brown houndstooth
A pair of grey flannel

all these to supplement the charcoal and brown already in my wardrobe.

I think this should be all that I would need for the winter as I have a suit and two other sportcoats that should do the trick; however, I am looking to expand my sportcoats as both sportcoats I own are probably a bit too large.

Any suggestions on color and patterns for grey, navy, and brown?


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