# Longwing Help



## chacend (Mar 4, 2008)

Gents,

I want to fly! With longwings that is. What's the consensus on wearing the LWB with suits. Also, if you think they are fine with a suit what type would you buy? Not so much brand but color (black, brown, chili, #8) and type (shell, pebbled...). Tried on the Black Fleece Alden LWB in Black Pebble Grain today and really liked them but wasn't sure about how they would look with a suit.


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## Tonyp (May 8, 2007)

Not really a shoe for suits. but if you like them then go for it. You can wear them with any type of trouser, cord jean or chino. I would opt for #8 shell or a burgundy calf.


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## Green3 (Apr 8, 2008)

I wear LW with suits all the time, but I'm in the sticks. 

I think they look fine with a trad suit and button down collar, which are more on the casual end anyway.

I would look to dark brown or #8 for versatility. The AEs at Lands End Canvas look great to my eye.


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## phyrpowr (Aug 30, 2009)

Since I was a boy (am 59 now) the LW was THE Mr. Businessman/Banker/Lawyer shoe. Here in the South, possibly more so than the captoe bal. Never thought of it as a shoe to be worn with more casual clothes, until recently. I'm retired now, and almost never wear a suit, but I've got my shell LWs on today, with navy trou and camel sportcoat

You also see lots, I mean lots, of tassel loafers of the AE Grayson variety with dark suits.


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## PJC in NoVa (Jan 23, 2005)

My late father wore pretty much nothing but longwings (or "running-board wingtips," as we called them at the time)--Florsheim Kenmoor Imperials back when they were US-made. Pop wore them with suits all the time, and looked fine. I don't think they're the best shoe to wear with something high-fashiony or Italian-looking in the way of a suit, but this is the Trad forum: I'm sure whatever suit you may have in mind will be something substantial and tradly, and hence will work well with these manliest of dress shoes.


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

I recommend burgundy or black lwb to be worn with suits


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## chacend (Mar 4, 2008)

Thanks for the replies so far. To clarify, I am specifically thinking of wearing these with heavy weight flannel suits for the late fall to spring time frame. They probably wouldn't look right with lighter weight worsteds but who knows.


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## chacend (Mar 4, 2008)

mcarthur said:


> I recommend burgundy or black lwb to be worn with suits


Would the black pebbled be too informal? Also I am moving to Copenhagen Denmark wear the weather is generally wet, would a commando sole like the ones from Alden of Carmel rule these out for suits or is not noticeable?


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## Brooksfan (Jan 25, 2005)

For 20 years or more I wore longwings and plain toe bluchers almost exclusively with my suits and white OCBDs. I never thought twice about it and still believe it's a good look. Obviously others will have different opinions but if you like them wear them.


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## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

chacend said:


> Would the black pebbled be too informal? Also I am moving to Copenhagen Denmark wear the weather is generally wet, would a commando sole like the ones from Alden of Carmel rule these out for suits or is not noticeable?


the black pebble grain lwb on the commando sole would go well with a suit.


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## mxgreen (Jan 18, 2009)

I know conventional wisdom goes against wearing longwings with a suit, but I am of a different opinion. I think they look great with traditional U.S. cut suits.



chacend said:


> Would the black pebbled be too informal? Also I am moving to Copenhagen Denmark wear the weather is generally wet, would a commando sole like the ones from Alden of Carmel rule these out for suits or is not noticeable?


I won an auction for Italian made longwings a few weeks ago:

The seller is Ron Rider; check out Rider Boot Company. Ron still has some longwings listed for auction - black scotchgrain, brown scotchgrain and black shell, perhaps in your size. If you are interested at all give Ron a call at Franco's Fine Clothier - 888-254-0950. He'll answer any of your questions about the shoes. Also, I see that many of his auctions have ended with him accepting an offer of less than the "Buy It Now" price.

I received my pair earlier this week and am very happy. They are on a nice last and finished very nicely. Also, regarding your concern of wet weather, the shoes have a storm welt and Sestriere soles (they are made of rubber and are similar to Dainite soles).

Good luck.


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## phyrpowr (Aug 30, 2009)

Agreed on the sole. It's the really clunky "running shoe" soles that draw attention, not so much the material itself.

Black pebble, rubber sole sounds like a good combo in that business/weather environment.


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## cmacey (May 3, 2009)

Longwings are a great fit with suits, as it were. Can't believe people think otherwise. But then again, that's the beauty of a free society...rock on world!


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## AHS (Mar 18, 2006)

I think longwings look great with suits. But I think longwings look great with everything, save bathing suits.



chacend said:


> Tried on the Black Fleece Alden LWB in Black Pebble Grain today and really liked them but wasn't sure about how they would look with a suit.


How did you like the Alden Black Fleece shoes?

AHS


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## chacend (Mar 4, 2008)

AHS said:


> How did you like the Alden Black Fleece shoes?
> 
> AHS


I liked the look a lot and they were comfortable. Had a little heel slippage, but I am wondering if that is because of the steel shank and not being broken in yet. I think I'm going to o to Alden and Allen Edmonds and try on some others for comparison today.


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## Intrepid (Feb 20, 2005)

*Longwing evolution*

In the late 50s, the longwing was the preferred shoe of choice for those dressing in suits, for work. The required IBM uniform, was dark suit, white shirt, conservative tie, and black longwings.

The gold standard was the Florsheim Imperial.

In the fullness of time, lighter weight shoes became standard, and the longwing began to fade from view, except for a few of us. Florsheim fell on tough times, and their version of the longwing disappeared.

Today, there is still a small niche market for them. AE recently discontinued the Macneil, although they are apparently bringing it back, based on a report in another thread.

The Florsheim brand is apparently reemerging, but in a different form. Zappos has Florsheim longwings, but they are apparently made in India, and are nothing like the original Imperials. The reviews here would indicate that they are of marginal quality.

Alden still makes them in black, #8, and cigar. (Over Christmas, Tom Austin in NYC, had them on sale for 15% off.) Sale price figured out to @$500.

This thread shows that there still a few of us that are devotees. In our small town, I've never seen another pair. This is why it still has a great retero feel, for everything from khaki & sweater;blazer; suit, etc.

Long live the longwing.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

Intrepid said:


> In the late 50s, the longwing was the preferred shoe of choice for those dressing in suits, for work. The required IBM uniform, was dark suit, white shirt, conservative tie, and black longwings.
> 
> The gold standard was the Florsheim Imperial.
> 
> ...


Wow, wow, wow!!! Hold the phone!!! AE has not discontinued, and is not discontinuing, the MacNeil. The MacNeil is alive and well and with expanding colors and leathers.


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## chacend (Mar 4, 2008)

gman-17 said:


> Wow, wow, wow!!! Hold the phone!!! AE has not discontinued, and is not discontinuing, the MacNeil. The MacNeil is alive and well and with expanding colors and leathers.


Quite true Gman. In fact I took the plunge today! What is being continued is the Black polished cobbler MacNeil, because of this I was able to get a pair today for the wonderful price of $199 at the DC Allen Edmonds store. I also picked up a pair of McClains in Chili Pebble Grain for $149 and then went across town and got a pair of Snuff Suede Alden Tassel Loafers for $100:aportnoy: as there was only one pair left and they were my size!!

So in summary that's 2 new pairs of AE and 1 new pair of Aldens for a total of $450:devil:


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

chacend said:


> Quite true Gman. In fact I took the plunge today! What is being continued is the Black polished cobbler MacNeil, because of this I was able to get a pair today for the wonderful price of $199 at the DC Allen Edmonds store. I also picked up a pair of McClains in Chili Pebble Grain for $149 and then went across town and got a pair of Snuff Suede Alden Tassel Loafers for $100:aportnoy: as there was only one pair left and they were my size!!
> 
> So in summary that's 2 new pairs of AE and 1 new pair of Aldens for a total of $450:devil:


That was a steal!!! Good one.


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## JayJay (Oct 8, 2007)

I'm a fan of longwings with suits as well as with casual clothing. For suits I prefer them in #8 or black.


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## andrewcorreia (Jan 21, 2009)

The Long Wing is DEFINITELY appropriate with a suit! They are the classic gun boats that will never go out of style!


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## P Hudson (Jul 19, 2008)

I have a pair of AE Richmonds in Chili. They are great with everything from a suit to wool trousers to khakis. They would be perfect with jeans, but I don't wear jeans. 

You might find in Europe that longwings with a thick sole comes across as a distinctly American look. You can play that up or play it down, the choice is yours, but it may affect how people relate to you.


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## velomane (Nov 6, 2009)

mxgreen said:


> I won an auction for Italian made longwings a few weeks ago:


I was looking at those a moment ago. Do they fit TTS?


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## chacend (Mar 4, 2008)

P Hudson said:


> You might find in Europe that longwings with a thick sole comes across as a distinctly American look. You can play that up or play it down, the choice is yours, but it may affect how people relate to you.


I'm sure the sack suits and loafers will go a long way towards making me stand out as an American, the longwings will just make sure there is no doubt.:icon_smile_big:


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