# Jacket re-lining?



## marlinspike (Jun 4, 2007)

Does anybody know of a business I can send a jacket to, so that it can be re-lined with a bemberg lining? Everybody local seems to just have cheap feeling polyester.


----------



## mrp (Mar 1, 2011)

marlinspike said:


> Does anybody know of a business I can send a jacket to, so that it can be re-lined with a bemberg lining? Everybody local seems to just have cheap feeling polyester.


I don't know of anyone, if they don't want to get the materials themselves are they open to you providing them the fabric. It isn't a terribly expensive item.


----------



## marlinspike (Jun 4, 2007)

I am open to the idea. Where can I get the fabric?


----------



## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

If the lining isn't busted, don't replace it. Bemberg lining isn't going to make an inexpensive jacket any better.


----------



## DoghouseReilly (Jul 25, 2010)

mrp said:


> I don't know of anyone, if they don't want to get the materials themselves are they open to you providing them the fabric. It isn't a terribly expensive item.


The material isn't the majority of the cost. Like getting your car worked on, most of the cost is in the labor for something like this. I would suggest getting it patched up instead of relined. No one will be the wiser.


----------



## mrp (Mar 1, 2011)

marlinspike said:


> I am open to the idea. Where can I get the fabric?


Here is an easy one to start.
https://www.bblackandsons.com/solid-bemberg-lining-p-327.html


----------



## stubloom (Jun 6, 2010)

Relining of a sport coat or suit jacket should run $75 to $85 plus the cost of materials. Poly will run about $15 to $20 and bemberg about $20 to $25.

As far as lining color is concerned you have 2 primary options: a color that's in the same family as the coat (e.g., a lighter blue on a navy blue coat) or a color or print that's a real contrast (e.g., a red or maroon on a navy blue coat or a bright blue/yellow/red paisley on a navy coat).

Any competent tailor should be able to handle this with ease. If you don't have a competent tailor in your area, consider a mail service.

PS. As a courtesy to the tailor, make sure that the coat has been dry cleaned BEFORE you ask them to work on it.


----------



## marlinspike (Jun 4, 2007)

Jovan said:


> If the lining isn't busted, don't replace it. Bemberg lining isn't going to make an inexpensive jacket any better.


The current lining is bemberg, and it is busted.


----------



## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

stubloom said:


> Relining of a sport coat or suit jacket should run $75 to $85 plus the cost of materials. Poly will run about $15 to $20 and bemberg about $20 to $25.
> 
> As far as lining color is concerned you have 2 primary options: a color that's in the same family as the coat (e.g., a lighter blue on a navy blue coat) or a color or print that's a real contrast (e.g., a red or maroon on a navy blue coat or a bright blue/yellow/red paisley on a navy coat).
> 
> ...


The last jacket I had relined was about three or four years back. The original purchase was bemberg lined and that is what it was relined with. I took it to thae tailor at one of our local men's stores and it cost me something in the neighborhood of $103, as I recall. It appears prices have remained pretty stable over the past few years!


----------



## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

eagle2250 said:


> The last jacket I had relined was about three or four years back. The original purchase was bemberg lined and that is what it was relined with. I took it to thae tailor at one of our local men's stores and it cost me something in the neighborhood of $103, as I recall. It appears prices have remained pretty stable over the past few years!


From what I could find it costs twice the price in NYC from a reputable tailor.


----------



## aluminiumfish (Feb 19, 2009)

As far as I know , and I am willing to be corrected , the best lining is a mixture of viscose and acetate.
Thats the closest to the original Bemberg of old days...( was that pure Viscose?..heavy finely ribbed ?..)

I get my linings from ebay.Really superb offcuts/end-of-bolts of about 10 yards plus at £2 per metre.
My local haberdashery superstore does every combination of nylon yuck from £5-£9 pm.


----------



## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

marlinspike said:


> The current lining is bemberg, and it is busted.


Ah, my mistake. I misinterpreted your post.


----------



## Sufferable Fob (Aug 26, 2009)

I prefer polished cotton or silk, but meh. I have some nice cotton-silk 50-50, and that would likely work nicely for a lining, too.

Rayon's not the worst, but it's still second tier to me.

I understand that sometimes utility is necessary - thus chemical finishes and poly or other synthetic content to make things "easier" to care for. But, still, prefer to avoid it.


----------



## aluminiumfish (Feb 19, 2009)

Rayon is the original artificial silk ...has that look/feel....but has the absorbency + that coolness to the touch that matches cotton.
The best of silk and cotton ....and does'nt pill like a silk /cotton mix would.


----------



## Sufferable Fob (Aug 26, 2009)

I've never had trouble with a cotton lining, even with daily wear - but I wouldn't doubt that perhaps other people do.

It's just one of those things, I can tell the difference, just by looking and it's been no disadvantage to me. I suppose that making clothing has made me very aware of fabrics that just look and feel cheap. Since it's a lining that not many people will ever see, I can certainly see why some would choose utility over luxury.


----------



## Titus_A (Jun 23, 2010)

I'm bumping this thread instead of starting a new one, because there's already some discussion here of my question.

I just ordered a fully lined seersucker jacket. From what I understand, the lining is some generic artificial fiber. I am considering having the lining in the body replaced with something more breathable, like cotton (but leaving the lining in the sleeves to prevent snagging). Is there some particular fabric I should look for (a la Sufferable Fob's polished cotton), or would standard fabric-store gingham work?


----------



## bluesman (Aug 17, 2009)

Charlie Morrotta (dba Distanté in Philly) is as good as I've ever encountered at knowing what to do and how to do it at reasonable cost. He can get essentially any lining material you want and his shop does the job perfectly. They recently relined an old Kilgour, French & Stanbury tweed for me with a really neat material that has my initials "woven" into it at about 8" intervals. I say "woven" because they appear to have been created by altering the angle of the fabric weave. There are many choices, all monochromatic - the initials are so subtle that you don't notice them unless you look at the correct angle.


----------



## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Titus A: Fully lined seersucker would seem to defeat the purpose of the fabric! Where did you order it from? If you do get it re-lined, make it a quarter lining in back.


----------



## RM Bantista (May 30, 2009)

Gentlemen,
One has had a Silk jacket relined with new material. Two years ago? Cost about $45.00, but as the jacket was completely undamaged and by a long deceased designer, it seemed reasonable to come as close to the original lining as possible, which my alterations tailor did with fabric on hand, perfectly. He even replaced the original labels and pockets. One could not discern that is was not all original. His replacement was a bit more densely woven and will probably last forever for my purposes. His email is [email protected] and his phones are 505-268-0627 and 505-319-0957. Mr. Chris speaks Spanish and was trained in Estados Unidos de México, but he also speaks English and is very capable. This is the gentleman who also relined my Carhartt jacket and installed interior pockets, re-quilted the lining, and returned it to me better than original. If memory serves me, that was approximately $65.00, and the pockets were a pistol pocket left and an interior breast pocket right that are not offered on the original. Labels retained, and the jacket is much more useful than stock; well worth the expense to me.
Mr. Chris has also been of great assistance doing alterations to suits of the more mundane taking in and letting out, re-doing the hems and such. As I am often of various sizes from 38s to 40r depending, his skill has been vital to maintaining my wardrobe. He has been able to adjust a 42r jacket to my size. Some of our members will know how difficult it may be to accomplish such a feat without distorting the lines of the original. And he was able to do this when I was at 125 lbs and a 28 in. waist.
But Take It In; Let It Out is my mantra. This is why I have clothes in many sizes. Some days one thing fits better than another on other days.
Regards,
rudy


----------



## Titus_A (Jun 23, 2010)

Jovan said:


> Titus A: Fully lined seersucker would seem to defeat the purpose of the fabric! Where did you order it from? If you do get it re-lined, make it a quarter lining in back.


It's a Hardwick: if it's feasible to strip it down to a quarter lining, that would of course be best. But everyone always says a suit made with one needs it, so I rather assumed that would be impractical. But we'll see.


----------



## firedancer (Jan 11, 2011)

You're right Titus. There is a lot more finishing done in an unlined/semi lined jacket. Because of this you will want to replace the full lining.


----------



## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Used to be that every coat, at every price point, had at least a half lining. I wish that were still so, especially for summer suits. I've even seen a tweed overcoat of my stepfather's father that had half lining. They didn't always have the best finishing, but it was the way things were done.


----------



## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

Jovan said:


> Used to be that every coat, at every price point, had at least a half lining. I wish that were still so, especially for summer suits. I've even seen a tweed overcoat of my stepfather's father that had half lining. They didn't always have the best finishing, but it was the way things were done.


I have two older sports coats with a half lining, though neither are summer-weight. I wore one today, a grey donegal tweed from the 1970s that's manageable up to room temperature. With a full lining it wouldn't be so comfortable. Ideally summer suits need a minimal lining and an open weave in a heavier weight to prevent wrinkling, which is very hard to find OTR.


----------



## Titus_A (Jun 23, 2010)

The thing came in, and the lining, in addition to being full, is really rather unpleasant feeling. A trip to the fabric store and thence to the tailor is certainly in order.


----------

