# Allen Edmonds Balmoral Boot in the works



## NukeMeSlowly (Jul 28, 2005)

Pretty momentous news published in another thread.



AllenEdmondsCEO said:


> You're in luck - Two new dress lace-up boots are in final stages of development for introduction for the Fall season next year. They look great, too. One is similar to the boot we made for characters in the movie _Titanic_. The other is a balmoral captoe. Requests on Ask Andy definitely inspired our efforts.
> 
> Best wishes,
> Paul


Sounds like (and I am praying it will be) on the 5 last. [It *has* to be on the 5 last.]

I am envisioning a Park Avenue frame built into a full top dress boot. Sleek, fitted - great under a suit but able to shrug off slush and rain (when properly pre-treated  ).

*This product would be completely unique among US manufacturers.*

Finally, the prospect of a readily available, affordable balmoral captoe dress boot in a variety of colors!

Black would be an ideal staple but can you imagine a dark brown or merlot? Insane! Think of the possibilities. Chestnut or Brandy for the spring/summer... Special order in shell cordovan... Special order with medallion instead of captoe... I am drooling.

Ugh, I just don't want to wait until next fall to get them.

Maybe if enough people express interest, we can get a pre-order or advance delivery thing happening?


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## Mattdeckard (Mar 11, 2004)

Needs more of a wide forefoot like the ankleboots I've seen from the day. #1 #3 and #7 would be grand. Something closer to the modified last that Alden uses hopefully.


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## The Louche (Jan 30, 2008)

I will buy a pair of these. Indeed, I will.


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## Epaminondas (Oct 19, 2009)

The AE Andover boot circa. 2000 is the most comfortable boot I own by far (not a balmoral). I think it's on the no longer used 4 last - the same last as the Byron. No other boot (Sargent, Tricker's, Alden) feels as good.

I haven't bought a pair of AEs in over 3-4 years (though I own about 15 or so pair) - looks like I might be making some purchases this fall, though. I'm a big fan of boots.


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## Corcovado (Nov 24, 2007)

I look forward to these as well.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^
Life is good and next fall, it will be even better!


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## laufer (Feb 20, 2008)

:aportnoy: Yes I hope nice folks at AE will remember those of us living in New England and offer boots with the rubber soles too. That AE titan sole looks good to me.


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## amplifiedheat (Jun 9, 2008)

Awesome.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

My hope

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Wbd-uMYm...Qw/PjlRl2dK7pQ/s1600-h/Boots+and+Flannels.JPG

https://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Wbd-uMYmb_4/SWgCz98F6xI/AAAAAAAAERI/0K15xYOn9ss/s1600-h/Winter+boots.JPG

The second would be a great time to bring in 270 degree welting to boots. Don't worry Gents, I will be within the inner sanctum in less than 2 weeks and I will personally argue our case. Perhaps we need to do an AAAC shoe of the . . . year?? Bi-annual shoe? ?


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## Colin Hall (Nov 27, 2009)

*Insider*

Laufer... we hear you. You will be pleased. Keep the ideas coming. :idea:


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## istiopterus (Jan 8, 2009)

At last we have the return of the Balmoral! I just might buy several pairs, myself.

Also, a very traditional option was to have the tops made in suede of a complementing colour (very popular were black boots with grey suede tops during the Balmoral's heyday). Perhaps something for custom orders?


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## CuffDaddy (Feb 26, 2009)

istiopterus, if they provide one with a grey suede top to go with a black polished lower, I will absolutely buy a pair at once. And if they want to follow up with a brown suede/brown polished combo, I'll buy that, too.


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## Mad Hatter (Jul 13, 2008)

^That's what I'm hoping for, but with the option of shell.


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## 127.72 MHz (Feb 16, 2007)

Mad Hatter said:


> ^That's what I'm hoping for, but with the option of shell.


If they offer a given shoe or boot it's *always* an option to have it made custom in Shell Cordovan. (I've had it done)

Best regards,


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## laufer (Feb 20, 2008)

CuffDaddy said:


> And if they want to follow up with a brown suede/brown polished combo, I'll buy that, too.


+1 This is awesome combo. Put me down for one too.

Thanks to folks from AE for listening to us.


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## The Deacon (Nov 25, 2006)

127.72 MHz said:


> If they offer a given shoe or boot it's *always* an option to have it made custom in Shell Cordovan. (I've had it done)
> 
> Best regards,


Is a Brown shell cordovan custom make possible from AE?


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

The Deacon said:


> Is a Brown shell cordovan custom make possible from AE?


I believe that currently AE only does No. 8 and black shell cordovan. When Jim Kass was at our Chicago event, he did mention that he would like to do other colors. I think for AE it is a question of manufacturing set up. Shell itself is a niche for them and brown shell would be a niche within a niche. If AE knew there would be enough interest in the product they would make it. I also believe that Horween has more difficulty in guaranteeing the consistentcy and quality of lighter color shellls. That's not a problem if you are making five pairs of shoes, but 5,000--now that's a whole nuther ball of wax.


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## Mattdeckard (Mar 11, 2004)

I think the discoloration of the shell makes #8 the easiest color to hide the mottling. That's why it's hard to find lighter pieces in solid color. 

I'd love to see Allen Edmonds do brown like RL's shoes.


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## AllenEdmondsCEO (Mar 17, 2009)

*The Fifth Street Balmoral Boot*

Season's Greetings, Gents -

We're looking forward to the visit from some of our good AAAC friends on 12/22. They will get a full showing of the Spring and Fall additions for 2010, as well as a factory tour while a pair of custom brown cordovan Strands are being made. It'll be a good day.

Just this week we gave our new balmoral boot its name - The Fifth Street. It is indeed the Fifth Avenue pattern on the #5 last and will available in brown, black and cordovan. It's a fantastic looking boot.

It has some great companions in a boot line-up for next year. We'll also have blucher boot that was worn by the cast in the movie TITANIC, a rugged leather take on a chelsea boot with the tasteful rubber sole of our Executive Collection shoes, and a pebble grain rubber soled chukka on a thicker but still classy rubber sole known as a Titan sole. Lots to like there.

And yes, the catalyst for the inspiration definitely was input from you all. We're grateful because we're really excited about these boots! But 2010 is not going to be the year of the boot only -- wait until you see the shoes we've got coming....

Best,
Paul


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## MDunle3199 (Jun 5, 2009)

*NukeMe -- Time to Start Saving Up*

Looks like you got exactly what you were asking for.



AllenEdmondsCEO said:


> Season's Greetings, Gents -
> 
> We're looking forward to the visit from some of our good AAAC friends on 12/22. They will get a full showing of the Spring and Fall additions for 2010, as well as a factory tour while a pair of custom brown cordovan Strands are being made. It'll be a good day.
> 
> ...


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

That's great news Paul. Will these be proper balmoral boots with the seam connecting the vamp to the quarters running along the side, parallel to the welt?
Something like this:









Or will they be just a taller Fifth Avenue?


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## Mattdeckard (Mar 11, 2004)

Always have to make the best styles on that one last that squishes my toes. 

It'll sell like hot cakes.


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## NukeMeSlowly (Jul 28, 2005)

MDunle3199 said:


> Looks like you got exactly what you were asking for.


Yes. I am tearing up as I write this. [tears of joy.  ]

I wonder what the price point will be? I have to start budgeting for one in each color.


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

'Cordovan' as in shell cordovan or merlot calf?


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## Bradford (Dec 10, 2004)

Great news. I am going to have to start budgeting some funds to purchase a pair of these next year.


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## AllenEdmondsCEO (Mar 17, 2009)

*The Fifth Street Balmoral Boot*

Everyone - The Fifth Street boot will be more of an ankle height boot, not as far above the ankle as the one in Matt's picture. For that height, we'll have the Bayfield (Titanic movie) blucher boot. The pricing on the Fifth Street will be $325 in black and brown calfskin and $525 in shell cordovan. The Bayfield, with its greater amount of leather and pattern design, will be $350. We haven't planned to bring the Bayfield back in shell cordovan at this point.

Best wishes,
Paul


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## NukeMeSlowly (Jul 28, 2005)

AllenEdmondsCEO said:


> Everyone - The Fifth Street boot will be more of an ankle height boot, not as far above the ankle as the one in Matt's picture. For that height, we'll have the Bayfield (Titanic movie) blucher boot. The pricing on the Fifth Street will be $325 in black and brown calfskin and $525 in shell cordovan. The Bayfield, with its greater amount of leather and pattern design, will be $350. We haven't planned to bring the Bayfield back in shell cordovan at this point.
> 
> Best wishes,
> Paul


The fine print has me a little worried. How "low" is the Fifth Street going to be? How many eyelets are we talking about? Is it going to be a true boot or some sort of shoe/boot hyrbid?


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## Mad Hatter (Jul 13, 2008)

NukeMeSlowly said:


> The fine print has me a little worried. How "low" is the Fifth Street going to be? How many eyelets are we talking about? Is it going to be a true boot or some sort of shoe/boot hyrbid?


Sounds like it'll be comparable to a chukka boot in size..hope I'm wrong because I was thinking more in size like the Rider balmoral boots, also.


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## flatline (Dec 22, 2008)

AllenEdmondsCEO said:


> Everyone - The Fifth Street boot will be more of an ankle height boot, not as far above the ankle as the one in Matt's picture. For that height, we'll have the Bayfield (Titanic movie) blucher boot.


Oh! A swing and a miss. I believe the Fifth Street will be comparable to these: 
https://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm247/ay329/vassoxfordboots4.jpg
https://riderboot.files.wordpress.com/2009/02/17-feb-09-002.jpg

and not this:
https://blog.leffot.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/cap-toe.jpg

If it's the latter you're after I fear one will best be served robbing a bank and getting the , the , or perhaps even this: https://true-bespoke.blogspot.com/2008/05/carmina-oxford-boots.html


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## 127.72 MHz (Feb 16, 2007)

AllenEdmondsCEO said:


> Everyone - The Fifth Street boot will be more of an ankle height boot, not as far above the ankle as the one in Matt's picture. For that height, we'll have the Bayfield (Titanic movie) blucher boot. The pricing on the Fifth Street will be $325 in black and brown calfskin and $525 in shell cordovan. The Bayfield, with its greater amount of leather and pattern design, will be $350. We haven't planned to bring the Bayfield back in shell cordovan at this point.
> 
> Best wishes,
> Paul


I see a vision of yet another pair of Allen Edmonds shells in my future,...

As soon as I can sort out my exact fit in a pair of Strands I'm going to have a pair of them made in shell. Then there's the new model, (I can't wait for) the Augusta.

Now if I could have only broken free for the get together in Port Washington on the 22nd.

Thanks you for the insight Mr. Grangaard.


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

flatline said:


> Oh! A swing and a miss. I believe the Fifth Street will be comparable to these:
> https://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm247/ay329/vassoxfordboots4.jpg
> https://true-bespoke.blogspot.com/2008/05/carmina-oxford-boots.html


I get the idea that that this is what the Fifth Street will be. It will be an Oxford ankle boot rather than a true Balmoral ankle boot.


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## CuffDaddy (Feb 26, 2009)

Matt S said:


> I get the idea that that this is what the Fifth Street will be. It will be an Oxford ankle boot rather than a true Balmoral ankle boot.


Yeah, that would not be a balmoral. As you well know, an essential and definitive feature of a balmoral is the horizontal seam.


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## NukeMeSlowly (Jul 28, 2005)

CuffDaddy said:


> Yeah, that would not be a balmoral. As you well know, an essential and definitive feature of a balmoral is the horizontal seam.


While I acknowledge that it may not technically be a balmoral, it is definitely close enough for me. 

My real qualm is the height. I wonder if a special order could add height to a regular Fifth Street?

In any event, I am still excited to see the finished product.


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## flatline (Dec 22, 2008)

NukeMeSlowly said:


> My real qualm is the height. I wonder if a special order could add height to a regular Fifth Street?


I would say that is unlikely, but you never know. I recall that Mr. Grangaard said the difficulty with a tall boot like that is getting the last back out after forming it.


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## Mattdeckard (Mar 11, 2004)

On what last was the Allen Edmonds Brantly done?


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## NoVaguy (Oct 15, 2004)

Mattdeckard said:


> On what last was the Allen Edmonds Brantly done?


I "think" the Brantley was on the 5 last.

Isn't there a list of AE models and lasts somewhere here or on SF? I know I've seen it, and it was filled with discontinued shoes (which, in fact, was the impetus for the list, since people would come in with questions about the lasts). That list may have the Brantley on it.


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## Mattdeckard (Mar 11, 2004)

NoVaguy said:


> I "think" the Brantley was on the 5 last.
> 
> Isn't there a list of AE models and lasts somewhere here or on SF? I know I've seen it, and it was filled with discontinued shoes (which, in fact, was the impetus for the list, since people would come in with questions about the lasts). That list may have the Brantley on it.


Ugh... I hate the #5 last! No toe room!


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## Orgetorix (May 20, 2005)

Mattdeckard said:


> On what last was the Allen Edmonds Brantly done?





NoVaguy said:


> I "think" the Brantley was on the 5 last. .


I'm not at home, or I'd check my pair, but I'm pretty sure it was on the 4 last.



NoVaguy said:


> Isn't there a list of AE models and lasts somewhere here or on SF? I know I've seen it, and it was filled with discontinued shoes (which, in fact, was the impetus for the list, since people would come in with questions about the lasts). That list may have the Brantley on it.


Here's the list. It's only partial, and doesn't include the Brantley.
https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?t=64989


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## NukeMeSlowly (Jul 28, 2005)

If this ends up being the Fifth Street's height (i.e., 7 eyelets), I will be pretty happy (although higher would be better).


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## PatentLawyerNYC (Sep 21, 2007)

flatline said:


> Oh! A swing and a miss. I believe the Fifth Street will be comparable to these:
> https://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm247/ay329/vassoxfordboots4.jpg
> https://riderboot.files.wordpress.com/2009/02/17-feb-09-002.jpg
> 
> ...


Love that chisel toe on the Vass.... Now _that's _what I'm talkin' about..... :aportnoy:


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## flatline (Dec 22, 2008)

PatentLawyerNYC said:


> Love that chisel toe on the Vass.... Now _that's _what I'm talkin' about..... :aportnoy:


Yeah, but look at that _heel_. If I had the cash, I'd be looking at the Rider Boots ($1095, ).


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## rider (Jan 8, 2004)

flatline said:


> Yeah, but look at that _heel_. If I had the cash, I'd be looking at the Rider Boots ($1095, ).


or you could get the calf version that just arrived


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## flatline (Dec 22, 2008)

rider said:


> or you could get the calf version that just arrived


Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo (Yesohgodyespleaseyes)


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## well-kept (May 6, 2006)

Mattdeckard said:


> On what last was the Allen Edmonds Brantly done?


It was on the 4. I regret not getting a pair while it was possible.


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## PatentLawyerNYC (Sep 21, 2007)

flatline said:


> Yeah, but look at that _heel_. If I had the cash, I'd be looking at the Rider Boots ($1095,


Yes, the heel is a bit much.

As usual, what Rider offers is beautiful.


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## Ay329 (Sep 22, 2007)

*If I had to do it all over again*

I own 4 balmoral boots (Flatline was kind enough to post links to 2 of them). At one point I was intoxicated with their look...I have since been brought to my senses

When comparing boot height...ankle or high boot, I've found the ankle height to be much more comfortable when walking in the city and in my work building

If I had to do it all again, I would have only bought 1 balmoral boot.
1. Ankle height
2. Cordovan leather (burgundy or dark brown)
3. Steel eyelets and no speed hooks
4. Ridgeway sole for traction on bad weather days (the main purpose for having balmoral boots in the city)
5. Brogueing along the balmoral line (the beauty of the balmoral boot)
6. No stitching or brogueing along the throat lacing and no brogueing along the topline
7. Semi-brogue apron with no medallion
8. Use a bespoke last to improve the comfort and fit of the boot

Historically, it appears the urban Londonite (as did American urbanites) might have transitioned away from the balmoral boot for 2 main reasons:
1. The Balmoral oxford shoe was far more comfortable.
2. With paved sidewalks & roads, there was a smaller chance one would walk on dirt, and thus the benefits of the boot disappeared and the comfort of the shoe over took it

https://centipede.web.fc2.com/gandg3.html 
This balmoral shoe gives you an idea of how a nice looking boot could be. I just received an MTO version from G&G and find it far more comfortable than any of my balmoral boots.


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## NoVaguy (Oct 15, 2004)

well-kept said:


> It was on the 4. I regret not getting a pair while it was possible.


Oooh, 4 last. One of my favorite lasts - I should have gotten a pair as well.


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## Mattdeckard (Mar 11, 2004)

I'm really happy that the boots have been great. What I'd really like to see is something even more traditional A balmoral boot done on the 511 last with a suede upper half and a regular calf lower. 

I'm only choosy in this way as that 511 last is the one that really just fits me. Ad a thick poron insole and a Rendenbach leather sole and it's a smash hit!


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