# Brooks Brothers new Regent Fit



## CLTesquire (Jul 23, 2010)

Not sure if anyone noticed but BB has eliminated their Fitzgerald fit and now offers a newer Regent fit (I'm aware that the Regent existed before but I'm told it now different).

Has anyone given anything a try this fall? Perhaps with the 40% off sale on suits/sport coats going some members acquired some new additions and would like to post their thoughts? I'll offer my own:

In the past I have worn either the Fitz or the old Regent fit for suits or sport coats. I have particularly liked the fit of some of the Italian made Regent sport coats with the "super soft" construction (only lines in the shoulders/sleeves). So I was intrigued with the modifications to the only fits I wear from BB and now a bit disappointed after trying one of the new suits.

Last week I ordered a navy Birdseye 1818 suit in the Regent cut in my standard size. It arrived today. Like most, if not all, of the current 1818 line this suit is made in the USA by Southwick. I don't know what happened to the Italian make 1818's but I guess that experiment is over. Anyway, the fabric itself is the standard VBC fabric that you can find at any Southwick dealer and online through Epaulet. It had a nice hand and I like the Birdseye weave as an interesting way to add texture to an otherwise solid color suit. The color was nice in person and displays as a dark steel blue.

However the fit of the suit requires me to send it back. While I liked the way the coat fit in the shoulders and enjoyed the moderate taper to the waist, the jacket was much too short in length in a standard size. Every suit on the BB website in a Regent fit looks too short on the model displaying it but I was hoping that this was a fashion move on BB's part to have their models wear too small of a suit to look trendy. I was mistaken. It was probably at least 1.5 inches too short on my body and actually reminded me of the length of the Own Make collection, which I've thought was too short as well. Then there were the trousers. In the past I could wear the Fitz or Regent trousers with little alteration other than length. While the waist of these trousers was fine they were too tight in the seat (no growth spurt here on my end), too tight in the crotch (sadly not the result of a growth spurt here either), and cut very narrow all the way down the leg. They were just not comfortable and wouldn't be regardless of any possible alterations (the seat could be let out but there was barely any extra fabric present for an adjustment to the crotch).

So, there you have it. The fabric used in the new line was nice but the fit just wasn't there for me. Out of curiosity I may order a Long in my size to see where things stand. As they keep making jackets shorter a Long will be the new Regular.


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## IT_cyclist (Oct 17, 2015)

Well, that make me sad. I just got an "old" Regent SC that was perfect off the rack other than needing about a half-inch of sleeve shortening. 

And I'm about to send a Natural Craftsmanship jacket back b/c it is too short in the body. We don't need more of that.

Question: Do you think a 38L in the new cut would be about the right length for someone who normally wears a 38R?


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## CLTesquire (Jul 23, 2010)

IT_cyclist said:


> Well, that make me sad. I just got an "old" Regent SC that was perfect off the rack other than needing about a half-inch of sleeve shortening.
> 
> And I'm about to send a Natural Craftsmanship jacket back b/c it is too short in the body. We don't need more of that.
> 
> Question: Do you think a 38L in the new cut would be about the right length for someone who normally wears a 38R?


At this point I'm very confused on their sizing. I own one Own Make suit and it's in a Long size and I'm thinking it should be the same for me with the new Regent. I plan to try one of the new Regents in a Long when I stop by the store to return the Regular size one that arrived today. It may be wise to order both and see what works for you as we all have our own definitions of proper fit.


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## jpgr (Sep 2, 2016)

Too bad. The Fitzgerald suits fit me well enough, but I thought their 4-tier system of fits was a little confusing. I figured when they didn't have a fitz shirt that the cut wasn't going to last much longer on suits.


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## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

Chances are, most of us on this forum are more engaged customers than most, so if many of us are confused about the multiple fits (I think I have it, then something happens to make me doubt myself), think about how the average customer must feel? 

Business 101 is to build your customer-facing systems / processes / methodologies for the customer's benefit not the business'. I work in finance and, as a business overall, we are terrible at this as we'll build these great investment products that no one without a degree in finance can understand. In BB's case, I don't think it is so much that you need great intellectual heft, but it is simply confusing and, for me, I start to loose interest in the brand. 

To be fair, a lot of brands are guilty of this to some degree, but over the last five or so years, you need a spread sheet to keep BB's fit nomenclature straight.


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## FLMike (Sep 17, 2008)

CLT, based on your build, I'd peg you as more of a Madison fit. Particularly with the tweaks that BB is making to the various fits, might it be worthwhile to try the Madison?


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## CLTesquire (Jul 23, 2010)

FLMike said:


> CLT, based on your build, I'd peg you as more of a Madison fit. Particularly with the tweaks that BB is making to the various fits, might it be worthwhile to try the Madison?


Who knows. Probably just done with BB at this point. I had something that worked and don't feel like trying multiple sizes and models to get back to where I was.


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## alkydrinker (Apr 24, 2012)

IT_cyclist said:


> Well, that make me sad. I just got an "old" Regent SC that was perfect off the rack other than needing about a half-inch of sleeve shortening.


Same exact feelings here....the old Regent fit was great for me. I can't believe they are shortening jackets _now_....that trend is old and getting really stale.


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## jpgr (Sep 2, 2016)

Fading Fast said:


> Chances are, most of us on this forum are more engaged customers than most, so if many of us are confused about the multiple fits (I think I have it, then something happens to make me doubt myself), think about how the average customer must feel?


And the common sizes at other stores are something like: regular, slim, and extra slim. So for BB to give dramatic names AND have four sizes has been confusing for a while. I guess it's better with just 3 of these names, but that the names don't communicate the type of fit is still going to create confusion that isn't needed.

And the fact that I have to go check again to see if the new Regent fits as well as Fitzgerald probably means I'll shop elsewhere in the mean time. I doubt they'll miss me in that regard, and I'll probably still buy their shirts.


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## SG_67 (Mar 22, 2014)

If they are phasing out the Fitzgerald fit, this would probably be a good time to grab a few items. When they were phasing out Black Fleece, the discounts were as deep as 70%.


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## CLTesquire (Jul 23, 2010)

SG_67 said:


> If they are phasing out the Fitzgerald fit, this would probably be a good time to grab a few items. When they were phasing out Black Fleece, the discounts were as deep as 70%.


Back when they were doing that $499 suit sale, I noticed quite a bit of available Fitz models at that time.


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## Dhaller (Jan 20, 2008)

Every time I go to BB, they've changed their sizings and labeling schemes (what's this red label? blue? black? orange?); indeed, the first thing I do now is to grab a clerk, have them explain today's labeling scheme (which is fine - I do the same with waiters and daily specials), and then try a couple of things on to sort of calibrate the labels based on fit.

Everyone has loads of free time, right?

I do think it it's quite a failure for BB to adopt the trendy bolero jacket geometry right as (presumably) it's going off-trend; or, perhaps that's the whole point: it's become neoconservative at this point?

DH


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## upr_crust (Aug 23, 2006)

The last suit that I bought from Brooks was MTM, but made using the Regent fit as a model about 18 months ago, which, to date, has fit me well, though I did note that my MTM guy had the rise of the trousers lengthened by 3/4 of an inch, making me suspicious that I might not do well attempting to buy a Regent off the rack. As it is, though, somewhat shorter jackets actually suit me - it is always a toss-up whether I'm a 42R or a 42S when buying a suit, even though at 5'9" tall, by definition, I should be a regular.


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## jpgr (Sep 2, 2016)

CLTesquire said:


> Back when they were doing that $499 suit sale, I noticed quite a bit of available Fitz models at that time.


The irony is that's the time I actually saw how well that Fitzgerald fits me. The store was gracious and showed me the Regent, Fitz, and Milano. Took me decades to get to BB for a suit, and then when I finally got one, I find out that I have get fit again! I'll keep watch in the coming weeks to see if there are deals to be had.


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## CLTesquire (Jul 23, 2010)

upr_crust said:


> The last suit that I bought from Brooks was MTM, but made using the Regent fit as a model about 18 months ago, which, to date, has fit me well, though I did note that my MTM guy had the rise of the trousers lengthened by 3/4 of an inch, making me suspicious that I might not do well attempting to buy a Regent off the rack. As it is, though, somewhat shorter jackets actually suit me - it is always a toss-up whether I'm a 42R or a 42S when buying a suit, even though at 5'9" tall, by definition, I should be a regular.


Sounds like a 42R may work well for you Upr, providing you like the way the trousers fit. At around 6' tall I've always sort of been close to the limits of a regular length but thought a long was too much.


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## Southwick (Jan 11, 2010)

Excellent thread, gentlemen. I don't feel as badly now, because I had the same questions. Can I ask a question which will further betray my ignorance? Which of the fits is best for a fat guy? I take a 50R or in traditional cuts a 48R, with a 42 or 44 inch waist. For 25 years I've worn nothing but Southwicks (hence my screen name) because their traditional cut, along with the 3/2 roll, fit me with minimal alterations to either trousers or jacket. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## FLMike (Sep 17, 2008)

Southwick said:


> Excellent thread, gentlemen. I don't feel as badly now, because I had the same questions. Can I ask a question which will further betray my ignorance? Which of the fits is best for a fat guy? I take a 50R or in traditional cuts a 48R, with a 42 or 44 inch waist. For 25 years I've worn nothing but Southwicks (hence my screen name) because their traditional cut, along with the 3/2 roll, fit me with minimal alterations to either trousers or jacket.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


https://www.brooksbrothers.com/on/d...te/default/Page-Show?cid=mens-suits-fit-guide


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## Southwick (Jan 11, 2010)

FLMike said:


> https://www.brooksbrothers.com/on/d...te/default/Page-Show?cid=mens-suits-fit-guide


Thank you!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## FLMike (Sep 17, 2008)

CLTesquire said:


> Who knows. Probably just done with BB at this point. I had something that worked and don't feel like trying multiple sizes and models to get back to where I was.


I get your frustration, but again, looking at your pics, I think you should at least try on a Madison before you officially give up on the brand for good.


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## cellochris (Dec 14, 2015)

FLMike said:


> I get your frustration, but again, looking at your pics, I think you should at least try on a Madison before you officially give up on the brand for good.


Agreed. FWIW a few months back I went to a local BB to figure out what fit would work best and Madison was the only one where I felt the pants had enough room.


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

At least BB still has the Madison (albeit updated). So many brands have stopped selling suits that can fit a normal person.


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## FLMike (Sep 17, 2008)

cellochris said:


> Agreed. FWIW a few months back I went to a local BB to figure out what fit would work best and Madison was the only one where I felt the pants had enough room.


That's what I'm saying. As silly as it sounds, the new Madison may fit similar to the old Fitz or Regent.


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## CLTesquire (Jul 23, 2010)

FLMike said:


> That's what I'm saying. As silly as it sounds, the new Madison may fit similar to the old Fitz or Regent.


I did actually look online at their Madison selections today. Unfortunately I didn't see any models that just grabbed me this season. It's alright though. I have about 15 suits in the current rotation so I think I'll manage. :biggrin:

Plus, I'm rather more interested in some sort of tweed something or other at the moment!


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

FLMike said:


> That's what I'm saying. As silly as it sounds, the new Madison may fit similar to the old Fitz or Regent.


So it was updated again?


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## FLMike (Sep 17, 2008)

Matt S said:


> So it was updated again?


I'm not exactly sure. It's hard to keep up.


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## Vijayp (Jun 24, 2017)

I was looking to know more on new regent fit and now tempted to add a few observations on my own since I have all 3 fits (fitz, regent & madison). I own 3 fitz suits, 2 fitz sport coats, 2 regent sport coats and 2 madison blazers. 

Shopping in 2016 Spring:
* Fitz suits fitted me well by then but the fashion trend has gone leaner since then...now i feel those fitz jacket are roomy near the mid section and the trousers definitely roomy on thighs and the leg opening is too wide. I am taking them to BB tailor next week to get fixed.
* Regent fit sport coat bought had some room and now feel they are boxy. Again to tailor next week.
* Navy blazer from fitz & regent didn't fit me by then and so bought in Madison. It still looks & fits good.

Shopping in 2016 Winter:
* Regent sport coat (half-lined herringbone) seemed a bit short and but still seemed to have the same regent fit with roomier arms & midsection and slightly wider lapels.

Shopping in 2017 Spring:
* Got 2 regent fit cotton-linen sport coats. The fit makes me look thinner & taller - slimmer lapel, slimmer arms, 0.5 inch short jacket, jacket buttons seem to be lowered a little bit giving a longer V shape, slimmer mid section. When I paired it with Aiden fit chinos from Banana republic, it seemed perfect. Now when I wear Fitz suits or older regent fits, they are definitely more roomy and makes me short and stout (I am 5' 7" and 165 pounds with broad shoulders and a good paunch). Now I am exploring more on this new regent fit or and trying to slim down older coats to the same fit


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## twoinhandknot (Jan 25, 2017)

Does anyone else find most of the Regent fit jackets kind of short when looking at pictures?


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## Maljunulo (Jun 25, 2016)

I guess I'm just hopelessly ossified, but anything described as "trendy" leaves me absolutely cold.

It all looks as if it was machine washed and left in the dryer too long.


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