# What is pick stitching?



## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

I have seen this on a few websites and in the Hickey Freeman MTM guides but have no idea as to what it is.


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## jamgood (Feb 8, 2006)

A hand held needle&thread sewn in-and-out of cloth leaving an alternating thread,cloth,thread,cloth, area. Usually found on a lapel edge as well as other areas of a better quality suit coat. See below:

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Sometimes there is just a hint of thread on the top side of the stitch:

....................................................................

With a longer length of thread on the underside of the stitch:

--------------------------------------------------------------------

It can also be faked with a machine that shows a straight line on the top side (see above) and a loop stitch underneath, similar to these symbols turned sideways:

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

I hope this helps rather than confuses. [)]

jamgood: better quality new clothing, never described as "Amazing", @ 60-90% off retail https://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZjamgoodQQhtZ-!


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## Chuck Franke (Aug 8, 2003)

Handpick stitching on a lapel - RL purple label by Chester Barrie

www.carlofranco.com
Handmade Seven Fold Ties


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## a tailor (May 16, 2005)

on better quality garments the edge stitch is almost invisible. or it can be a large bold stitch called a saddle stitch. the stitch keeps the edge firm. as a plain [bluffed] edge tends to puff up with time.

Alex Di Pietropaolo


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## k.diddy (May 15, 2004)

Carlo or anyone else, do you have pics of "best", "good", and "bad" pick stitching? Where in the spectrum would the RLPL Chester Barrie stand? How does it compare to Brioni's, Borrelli's, Kiton's, or Oxxford's?


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## Chuck Franke (Aug 8, 2003)

Hmmm...

Well, they are different. The one I show there is what I believe my esteemed friend Alex is talking about when he says nearly invisible. You can tell it was done by hand but it does not jump up and shout LOOK AT ME! I AM HANDWORK!!!! For the past few years the pronounced pickstitching - the saddle stitch Alex refers to has been a hot trend so some makers use a machine to make a very exaggerated one. Problem is, one of those threads breaks and it throws everything off. I've practiced it a bit because... well because I am a geek and have no life I suppose but it is tricky to do it in such a way as to keep even tension on the thread so you don't get it all puckered. Will look for an example of bad  (but not in my closet)

www.carlofranco.com
Handmade Seven Fold Ties


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## bespokeonly (Apr 24, 2005)

From my observation, Savile Row suits have less visible pick-stitching (seen as "dots") while Neapolitan and some other Italian suits' are relatively more visible. You can even see slightly puckered edges on some Kiton, Borrelli (some, not all). The thread being used usually have the same color as the suit so you can't see the thread. Brioni's pick-stitching is more like the Chester Barrie pic that Carlo posted above.

The exaggerated pick-stitching along with the puckered shoulderhead are resented by many tailors outside Italy.

Example of bad: I've seen Dunhill and Boss doing the machine stitched imitation.


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## pkhunter (Sep 17, 2009)

Sorry to rejuvenate an old old thread. Better than starting a new one I think. 

I recently came across the "dots" pick stitching. My tailor tells me this needs heavier thread and is usually the preferred stitching of his clientele. 

I prefer the classic Italian that appears as "small lines" threaded along the edge. My tailor tells me this needs lighter thread and is less desirable. 

Any tips on which I should go for? I prefer the look of the classic Italian suits so am leaning towards the small lines as seen on Isaia, Zegna, Canali, etc. 

It's a single breasted peak lapel suit. 

Thanks!


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## Broadus (Jan 6, 2011)

On the lower end, Jos A. Bank Signature Gold suits have pick stitching on the front, including the lapels. It is quite noticeable and probably done by machine. On such a coat, the stitching in my view seems affected, a pretentious attempt to elevate a modest suit to another level. This is my perspective only. Even worse, IMO, is the placing of faux working cuffs on a coat sleeve. That's another issue, but it automatically loses the sale to me.

I would rather pick stitching be reserved for tailor-made suits.


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## StephenRG (Apr 7, 2005)

Pick-stitching: a form of machine sewing intended to give the impression that a lapel was sewn by hand.


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## 10gallonhat (Dec 13, 2009)

k.diddy said:


> Carlo or anyone else, do you have pics of "best", "good", and "bad" pick stitching? Where in the spectrum would the RLPL Chester Barrie stand? How does it compare to Brioni's, Borrelli's, Kiton's, or Oxxford's?


Can someone repost these pictures, or new ones?


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

Machined pick stitching is like machined working cuff buttons: intended to convey a false impression of expensive hand tailoring. Ironically, the only people who take notice of such details are likely to know what hand-tailored garments actually look like, and are not fooled. :icon_smile_wink:


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## Rich (Jul 10, 2005)

Broadus said:


> Even worse, IMO, is the placing of faux working cuffs on a coat sleeve. That's another issue, but it automatically loses the sale to me.
> 
> .


What do you mean by faux working cuffs? Cuffs that don't work (i.e. faux buttonholes) or working cuffs with machine-stitched button holes? If the latter, do you rule out machine-stitched buttonholes in general? In my experience, hand-stitched button holes, which are beautiful when done properly (and ugly when not done properly) are bespoke only. They take much more skill than hand pick-stitching. I remember that at one time you could get MTM suits with "hand-stitched lapels", basically machine-made suits with six inches of hand pick-stitching on the lapels as a option. I don't think hand-stitched buttonholes were ever offered.


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## Broadus (Jan 6, 2011)

Rich said:


> What do you mean by faux working cuffs? Cuffs that don't work (i.e. faux buttonholes) or working cuffs with machine-stitched button holes? If the latter, do you rule out machine-stitched buttonholes in general? In my experience, hand-stitched button holes, which are beautiful when done properly (and ugly when not done properly) are bespoke only. They take much more skill than hand pick-stitching. I remember that at one time you could get MTM suits with "hand-stitched lapels", basically machine-made suits with six inches of hand pick-stitching on the lapels as a option. I don't think hand-stitched buttonholes were ever offered.


I should have been more clear, but I meant the former: cuffs that don't work, merely machine stitching that looks like button holes with the button sewn on top. I've seen it on Lauren Ralph Lauren suits. It just looks pretentious to me.


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