# Washing Sweaters



## superpacker (Jul 16, 2008)

Do you guys have any insight on washing sweaters? I have a hefty shetland cardigan with leather elbow patches and buttons and the care instructions call for hand washing. A lot of my sweaters say handwash. Is there anything wrong with putting it in one of those mesh wash bags for washing delicates, and washing it on the extra light/delicate cycle at the shortest time, say 7-10 minutes? I figure that will keep wash time low and gentle.


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## sbdivemaster (Nov 13, 2011)

Hand wash it. Better safe than sorry.


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## Belfaborac (Aug 20, 2011)

I machine wash my sweaters on the wool setting and have never had a problem. Wool, cashmere, camel - it all goes in the machine. That said, you and I are unlikely to have the same washing machine, so hand washing is certainly the safest route.


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## CMDC (Jan 31, 2009)

I hand wash and have done several shetlands this way. Never had a problem.


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## stubloom (Jun 6, 2010)

On the assumption that your sweater is 100% wool, there are three points to consider...

1. Consider that course of action only if you have a front end loaded washer. If your washer is top end loaded and has an agitator, you could end up with a sweater that is shrunk and/or matted -- even if you use a net bag.

2. Before you put all your faith in the "care label", please understand that not all care labels are accurate -- either in whole or in part. There is not substitute for judgment. Of course, there is the possibility that the leather elbow patches and leather buttons were added by an enterprising retailer after manufacture but before resale in order to offer a product that's more "distinctive". In that case, the care label might accurately apply to the original sweater but not to the "remanufactured" sweater.

3. You state that the elbow patches and buttons are leather. Sounds like a classic cream, tan or white Shetland sweater with brown leather elbow patches/buttons. I'd bet dollars to donuts that the leather elbow patches are "bleeders" to water. "Wash" that sweater and you could end up with dye bleed all around the area of the elbow patches and buttons. And, if the sweater is wool, the resultant dye bleed will be extremely difficult to remove. Even if you test the leather for the possibility of dye bleed by gently rubbing the underside of a leather button with a damp white terry towel, and the "test" was negative, you might still end up with dye bleed.

Depending on how much you paid for the sweater, it may not be worth the risk. That's your call to make.

If a high-end/high value wool/cashmere sweater with leather elbow patches and leather covered buttons came into my facility, there's ONLY ONE WAY we'd even consider handling the garment: remove the patches and buttons prior to cleaning, clean the patches and buttons independently (if cleaning of the leather is necessary), and resew it all back on after cleaning. 

Good luck.


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

Handwash. Not all sweaters are the same and neither are all washing machines, so it's best to play it safe. Here's how I do it:

1) Fill container with lukewarm water (could be a sink, tub, etc.)
2) Add wool wash to water. I prefer to use Eucalan wool wash, since it doesn't require rinsing.
3) Place wool garment(s) in wash and soak for 15 minutes.
4) Gently spot clean any soiled areas with a lanolin wool wash bar.
5) Drain and remove garment(s) from wash. 
6) Roll garments between two bath towels and gently press out excess water.
7) Lay flat and air dry.

**Edit**

I missed the part about the leather patches and buttons. These should be removed before washing and replaced afterwards. If you're uncomfortable with this procedure, it's best to have the sweater professionally cleaned.

**2nd Edit** 
Looks like stubloom covered it.


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## eyedoc2180 (Nov 19, 2006)

hardline_42 said:


> Handwash. Not all sweaters are the same and neither are all washing machines, so it's best to play it safe. Here's how I do it:
> 
> 1) Fill container with lukewarm water (could be a sink, tub, etc.)
> 2) Add wool wash to water. I prefer to use Eucalan wool wash, since it doesn't require rinsing.
> ...


This. We use Woolite, which occasionally imparts an odd odor (though it might be the wet wool itself?). I am glad for the suggestion of another brand.


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## Christophe (Oct 27, 2010)

Couldn't you just take it to the dry cleaner? That's what I do for lambswool, shetland, and cashmere, and it seems to work fine. I don't have any sweaters with leather buttons or patches, though, so I'm not sure if the cleaner could take care of that.


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## sbdivemaster (Nov 13, 2011)

The Eucalan wash looks very promising. If anyone is looking to get me a Christmas gift... :icon_jokercolor:


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

Christophe said:


> Couldn't you just take it to the dry cleaner? That's what I do for lambswool, shetland, and cashmere, and it seems to work fine. I don't have any sweaters with leather buttons or patches, though, so I'm not sure if the cleaner could take care of that.


The sweaters I own that have leather buttons/ patches state on the care label that they are to be dry cleaned by a "leather and suede expert." I think that, unless the actual leather patches needed cleaning, a competent dry cleaner who could remove and then reattach the leather accessories after cleaning would be sufficient. Or, remove the accessories yourself, hand wash and then have a tailor reattach them.



sbdivemaster said:


> The Eucalan wash looks very promising. If anyone is looking to get me a Christmas gift... :icon_jokercolor:


SB, keep shooting for the stars with that Christmas list!


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## Billax (Sep 26, 2011)

Christophe said:


> Couldn't you just take it to the dry cleaner? That's what I do for lambswool, shetland, and cashmere, and it seems to work fine. I don't have any sweaters with leather buttons or patches, though, so I'm not sure if the cleaner could take care of that.


Christophe, Stu Bloom, just three posts above yours in one of the country's best Dry Cleaners. His word is gold. His post should serve as answer to your question.


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## wrwhiteknight (Mar 20, 2012)

hardline_42 said:


> Handwash. Not all sweaters are the same and neither are all washing machines, so it's best to play it safe. Here's how I do it:
> 
> 1) Fill container with lukewarm water (could be a sink, tub, etc.)
> 2) Add wool wash to water. I prefer to use Eucalan wool wash, since it doesn't require rinsing.
> ...


Yes, this again. I too use Eucalan and the stuff is fantastic. www.eucalan.com


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## Christophe (Oct 27, 2010)

Billax said:


> Christophe, Stu Bloom, just three posts above yours in one of the country's best Dry Cleaners. His word is gold. His post should serve as answer to your question.


Thanks for pointing that out, didn't even notice the signature the first time I read it. Definitely sound advice!


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Exactly. If the sweater is that valuable to you, send it to Stu and save yourself the anxiety and aggravation . . . not to mention avoiding disaster.


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## Belfaborac (Aug 20, 2011)

stubloom said:


> 1. Consider that course of action only if you have a front end loaded washer. If your washer is top end loaded and has an agitator, you could end up with a sweater that is shrunk and/or matted -- even if you use a net bag.


I had to look up what an "agitator" is and found something I've not seen in a domestic washing machine for the past 20+ years. Are such washing machines still to be found in the US, other than for commercial purposes?


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## fiddler (Apr 19, 2010)

stubloom said:


> ...
> 1. Consider that course of action only if you have a front end loaded washer. If your washer is top end loaded and has an agitator, you could end up with a sweater that is shrunk and/or matted -- even if you use a net bag.
> 
> ...


It would be interesting to hear your opinion on chemical stress from drycleaning, compared to mechanical stress of machine washing. Which method has the worst effect on the fibers?

I've been washing all my knitted wool in the machine, and it works fine for me. Though, when it's -20 C outside, a good airing usually does the trick as far as odor is concerned, so I try to wash as seldom as possible.


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## eyedoc2180 (Nov 19, 2006)

fiddler said:


> It would be interesting to hear your opinion on chemical stress from drycleaning, compared to mechanical stress of machine washing. Which method has the worst effect on the fibers?
> 
> I've been washing all my knitted wool in the machine, and it works fine for me. Though, when it's -20 C outside, a good airing usually does the trick as far as odor is concerned, so I try to wash as seldom as possible.


Only IMHO, and boy is it humble, I think the drycleaner stress is overstated. While we do wash our sweaters by hand in Woolite (and will try the other stuff listed above), results from the local drycleaning place have been good. That pertains to sweaters only, as ties have been a disaster, as described on many AAAC posts. Bottom line, don't wash, dry clean, or anything else until you've aired it out first.


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## housemartin (Nov 24, 2012)

Here's what I do:

Fill a small bowl with warm water and put in some dawn dish soap. (Laundry soap is too alkaline for wool, which is why people used to add vinegar to their rinse). Dawn is what they use to clean birds in oil spills. Very easy on wool. You can google Dawn + Wool and you'll see reviews.

Do not agitate the water as you do not want bubbles. After the Dawn is diluted into the water, place the sweater in. Do not agitate as we do not want to cause pills or felting of the wool. Let it sit for 15 minutes. Remove from water and refill bowl with CLEAN warm water. Place the sweater in the new water and allow the soapy water to dilute out into the clean water. Again: NO AGITATION. Let sit for 15 minutes. Repeat with new water if you feel there is still soap in the sweater. When done, gently remove sweater (gently as we do not want to stretch the wool), place on a clean towel and roll the water out as the post above. Unroll, shape on a clean flat surface or drying rack. 

Hope this was helpful.


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

^ "Original" Dawn is gentle enough to clean wool without damaging it. However, it will strip all of the lanolin out of it (this is a good idea to do before long term storage of wool garments). Animals (and humans) produce their own oils to help condition their hair/fur but sweaters don't. If you plan to "strip" your sweater using Dawn or a similar product, make sure you lanolize it afterwards to keep it soft and water repellent.


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## Ekphrastic (Oct 4, 2009)

All of the above responses are absolutely excellent, especially Stu Bloom's. Keep that in mind as I blatantly contradict them:

I throw my wool/cashmere sweaters in the washing machine. Have I damaged them? Yes--one beyond repair, and I got a hole in another. However, most have emerged okay. For me, it's a question of risk vs. reward. At the risk of sounding horribly lazy, it just isn't worth my time to hand-wash my sweaters; it would drive me nuts to hand-wash them all. (Now, maybe if I dropped $600.00 on a Ralph Lauren Purple Label cashmere number, I'd find it worth my while.) Also, I find that most sweaters don't fit me, and putting them in the washing machine (and even--shriek!--the dryer) makes 'em fit me better.

I should note that, when I damaged my sweaters, I think I used the regular cycle and regular detergent; when I've used the delicate cycle, things go much more smoothly.

So, again, lest anyone think I'm being obstinate: the above-listed advice is superb. However, it might not be completely catastrophic to put them in the washer.

Plus--and I realize that this is a very rare situation, but it affected me--bear in mind that, when you air-dry (or towel-dry) a sweater in your home, the sweater tends to absorb whatever's in the air. Once, I had the misfortune to end up in an apartment with mold problems, and my health was greatly affected; once I figured out what was going on (after being sick for several months), I had to move. However, whenever I'd pull out a sweater I'd air-dried in the moldy apartment, I'd get sick again. No joke--my sinuses would go crazy. I ended up having to get rid of some of my favorite clothes.

Again, highly unlikely. But, you know, make sure there aren't any smells (cooking, etc.) in the air that you don't want to sniff every time you don your shetland.


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## housemartin (Nov 24, 2012)

hardline_42 said:


> ^ "Original" Dawn is gentle enough to clean wool without damaging it. However, it will strip all of the lanolin out of it (this is a good idea to do before long term storage of wool garments). Animals (and humans) produce their own oils to help condition their hair/fur but sweaters don't. If you plan to "strip" your sweater using Dawn or a similar product, make sure you lanolize it afterwards to keep it soft and water repellent.


Good call I'm going to add a bit of lanolin to the final rinse. Thank you for the tip.


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