# Wool Mackinaw - Anything better than Filson?



## hardline_42

I've had a Filson Double Mack Cruiser for a few years and I've finally admitted to myself that I don't like it. When I bought it, I was enamored with the idea of having "the best" and gave away a perfectly good vintage Woolrich that had served me on plenty of hunting trips in the past. While Filson's wool is superb, thanks to the poor design of the Cruiser, it's been worn very little in the time I've owned it. 

Among my complaints are a) the puny collar that serves no purpose when turned up against the wind, b) the lack of a storm flap or even a decent sized button placket to keep wind out, c) the lack of a lining that makes it difficult to put on over a sweater, d) the lack of interior pockets, e) the lack of internal cuffs f) and the combo hand warmer/cargo pockets where the use of one precludes the use of the other.

Aside from the obvious route of trying to eBay another identical vintage Woolrich, does anyone have any experience with other current manufacturers like Johnsons Woolen Mills, Pendleton or Bemidji?


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## eagle2250

I'va a Woolrich Mackinaw that has a few years on it, that I've been quite satisfied with. The coat has kept me warm and served me well....and the wife absolutely hates to see me wear it (she says I look like a rube in it!), which oddly, seems to add to the appeal of the jacket!  I don't know if Woolrich offers a present version of the design for sale.


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## hardline_42

eagle2250 said:


> I don't know if Woolrich offers a present version of the design for sale.


They have the . It has many of the features of the old, but it's a blend and only 18.5oz fabric at that. It's also imported. There are still enough domestic mills to put anything imported out of the running for me.


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## Snow Hill Pond

I have an old (40+ years old) Pendleton made-in-the USA, 100% wool, red-and-black plaid mackinaw that was handed down from my father. I use it exclusively for a weekend coat. The coat suffers from some of the same issues that you mention about the Filson. It lacks internal pockets. It has a button closure. It has no lining. It does however have a very long point collar (ala the Barbour Beaufort) that theoretically should keep my neck warm, but unlike the Barbour the collar is floppy and doesn't stay up very well.

It's just a well-constructed, old-fashioned (with the unmodern design flaws) coat. I don't think it'll ever wear out. It looks great, but that's about it. It's more fashion now than function.


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## Snow Hill Pond

eagle2250 said:


> ....and the wife absolutely hates to see me wear it (she says I look like a rube in it!), which oddly, seems to add to the appeal of the jacket!


Same here! My wife hates the Pendleton.


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## 32rollandrock

You have learned the hard way: When something works for you, stick with it--no one can read the label when you're wearing it, and most of the world wouldn't care anyway. It sounds like the old one was a humdinger, if it had all the features you mention, and the sad part is, you will likely never find another one like it. I'm guessing that vintage Woolrich, some of which I own, is likely just as good, if not better, than Filson. I think that Filson makes great stuff, but it may seem even better than it really is because virtually no one makes stuff like that anymore.

I found and sold a NWOT Pendleton Mackinaw a couple years back that was spectacular and had the sort of cut you desire in terms of collar, at least. I've never seen one that has all the features you mention, though. It sounds like you would use this a lot and so, if I were in your boat, I would consider starting out with something that is as close as you can get to what you want, then have a tailor do the rest. It shouldn't be too difficult to find a jacket, perhaps a secondhand one, that has the right collar, pockets and storm flap. From there, you'd have to pay to have a lining and inner pockets and internal cuffs added. Those modifications would likely cost more than the garment itself, especially if you start out with something from eBay or a thrift store, but you'd have something that is exactly what you want and would last pretty much forever if you start out with a Pendleton or Woolrich or equivalent.


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## budrichard

I have two Filson double Mac's, great garments but I found that some time ago that Eddie Bauer made a down lined Mac and I purchased one. For standing around the wool is softer and the downlining superb. I think I purchased at least three of these on eBay for family. They do come up from time to time on eBay.
But if you are going to be active and sweat a lot, down will get waterlogged and the Filson Mac is better because although the wool will absorb some water, it will still provide insulation. Look at what Mallory wore to Everest and he almost made it back!-Dick


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## Geezer

I am very fond of my Filson single mac, and have no problem with the collar or that it is unlined. I would like it even more with bigger lower pockets that allowed the handwarmers to be used even when the former have things in them, without the pen pocket stitching in the left breast pocket (I must remove it), and with buttons on the pocket flaps, not fiddly press-studs. Same issues on my tin cloth Packer coat. These things may be traditional, but it doesn't make them right.

I agree that vintage Woolrich (or LLB?) should be of equivalent quality.

I find Filson's new foreign-made lines, brought in since the change of ownership, depressing. I can tolerate them if they keep the company afloat. But I fear the rot is setting in. I hope not, because I admire the firm.


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## hardline_42

Geezer said:


> I am very fond of my Filson single mac, and have no problem with the collar or that it is unlined. I would like it even more with bigger lower pockets that allowed the handwarmers to be used even when the former have things in them, without the pen pocket stitching in the left breast pocket (I must remove it), and with buttons on the pocket flaps, not fiddly press-studs. Same issues on my tin cloth Packer coat. These things may be traditional, but it doesn't make them right.
> 
> I agree that vintage Woolrich (or LLB?) should be of equivalent quality.
> 
> I find Filson's new foreign-made lines, brought in since the change of ownership, depressing. I can tolerate them if they keep the company afloat. But I fear the rot is setting in. I hope not, because I admire the firm.


Agreed. While I admire their dedication to their original designs, there is room for innovation in functional outerwear while still using traditional materials and aesthetic.


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## David J. Cooper

I just bought this jacket and love it. Protects me from the wind and with my Filson Tin 505s it gives me a 50s dad look.

i know it has a zipper, is lined with a modern fabric and it's made in China but it's much better then my Mrs' Filson.


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## Flanderian

This works in Vermont -

But I'm not sure about the lining.


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## Semper Jeep

I have a Filson Cruiser as well (single) and have gotten quite a bit of use out of it over the past couple of years. I do however have some of the same quibbles with it as you do Hardline - particularly with the collar that doesn't like to stand up and the lack of a liner (I too wear mine over a sweater quite often and not having a liner is a pretty big annoyance).

I am seriously considering taking mine to a very skilled tailor I have before next fall and seeing about adding a piece of suede or leather under the collar to help it stand up better when turned up and adding a silk or polyester half liner.

I would consider going in a completely different direction and just getting an alternative to the Cruiser but it really is quite comfortable and very well broken in.


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## hardline_42

Semper Jeep said:


> I have a Filson Cruiser as well (single) and have gotten quite a bit of use out of it over the past couple of years. I do however have some of the same quibbles with it as you do Hardline - particularly with the collar that doesn't like to stand up and the lack of a liner (I too wear mine over a sweater quite often and not having a liner is a pretty big annoyance).
> 
> I am seriously considering taking mine to a very skilled tailor I have before next fall and seeing about adding a piece of suede or leather under the collar to help it stand up better when turned up and adding a silk or polyester half liner.
> 
> I would consider going in a completely different direction and just getting an alternative to the Cruiser but it really is quite comfortable and very well broken in.


I think the issue with the collar is not necessarily the stiffness, but the lack of a lapel or latch to keep them secured. If you look at something like Filson's wool packer, the shawl collar stands up easily with the use of the throat latch:

The old Woolrich Mack has a much larger collar and a throat latch as well:










The same is not possible with the Cruiser, which functions more like a shirtjac on steroids.


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## Scottmb3

Hey everybody, My name is Scott; I am a supervisor with the Filson Customer Service department. I wanted to drop by and let you all know that I have taken this feedback to our production and design department. They really appreciate feedback from Filson users as to what features and changes can be made to improve the functionality of our garments. If you have any further recommendations, feel free to let me know and I would be happy to bring it up with our design department. 

Also, to Hardline_42, if you are interested in adding a button and fabric throat latch to your jacket, we can send you out the materials to add this to your jacket.


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## Charles Saturn

Scottmb3 said:


> Hey everybody, My name is Scott; I am a supervisor with the Filson Customer Service department. I wanted to drop by and let you all know that I have taken this feedback to our production and design department. They really appreciate feedback from Filson users as to what features and changes can be made to improve the functionality of our garments. If you have any further recommendations, feel free to let me know and I would be happy to bring it up with our design department.
> 
> Also, to Hardline_42, if you are interested in adding a button and fabric throat latch to your jacket, we can send you out the materials to add this to your jacket.


Its great to hear from Filson directly, for me the biggest draw back of the Mac Cruiser and the Weekender as well is that they aren't lined. Seems like a real shortcoming in your product lineup, not having a fully lined coat.


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## hardline_42

Scottmb3 said:


> Hey everybody, My name is Scott; I am a supervisor with the Filson Customer Service department. I wanted to drop by and let you all know that I have taken this feedback to our production and design department. They really appreciate feedback from Filson users as to what features and changes can be made to improve the functionality of our garments. If you have any further recommendations, feel free to let me know and I would be happy to bring it up with our design department.
> 
> Also, to Hardline_42, if you are interested in adding a button and fabric throat latch to your jacket, we can send you out the materials to add this to your jacket.


Scott, I'm very happy to hear that Filson is taking such an interest in customer feedback. While Filson is unmatched in quality of materials, I always assumed that its longstanding heritage and dedication to its original designs would make it somewhat indifferent to actual customer experiences. I'm glad that's not the case and I do hope you stick around the forum.

As I've mentioned in previous posts in this thread, my biggest complaints about the cruiser are:

- the lack of neck/face protection because of the collar design
- the lack of a smooth lining (cotton poplin, for example) to help get it on over other wool garments
- the lack of a cuff (either knit or some other type) that seals out the wind
- the lack of a storm flap over the button placket to keep the wind out
- the lack of chest height handwarmers
(other members, feel free to add as you see fit)

These seem to be issues that Filson has otherwise addressed by having multiple models in their waxed cotton line of outerwear, but not in their wool offerings. That being said, I'm really kicking myself for having recently sold my Double Mac. The throat latch is something I would have liked to try.


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## Scottmb3

hardline_42 said:


> Scott, I'm very happy to hear that Filson is taking such an interest in customer feedback. While Filson is unmatched in quality of materials, I always assumed that its longstanding heritage and dedication to its original designs would make it somewhat indifferent to actual customer experiences. I'm glad that's not the case and I do hope you stick around the forum.
> 
> As I've mentioned in previous posts in this thread, my biggest complaints about the cruiser are:
> 
> - the lack of neck/face protection because of the collar design
> - the lack of a smooth lining (cotton poplin, for example) to help get it on over other wool garments
> - the lack of a cuff (either knit or some other type) that seals out the wind
> - the lack of a storm flap over the button placket to keep the wind out
> - the lack of chest height handwarmers
> (other members, feel free to add as you see fit)
> 
> These seem to be issues that Filson has otherwise addressed by having multiple models in their waxed cotton line of outerwear, but not in their wool offerings. That being said, I'm really kicking myself for having recently sold my Double Mac. The throat latch is something I would have liked to try.


Hey dude, thanks a lot for the feedback! I will take this over to the design department and hopefully these are things we can incorporate into the design in the future. I think you are partially right in that since jackets such as the Mackinaw Cruiser have been around for so long, we are hesitant to make significant changes to the design.

We have started introducing jackets with lining, which is a pretty new addition to our line. My favorite jackets are all lined and part of our "Black Label."

I plan to stick around for a long time. As you can see, I joined about a year ago, but have been lurking since then; you guys have great taste! You should all feel free to ask me questions, provide feedback, or hit me up anytime!


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## leisureclass

Hardline: This one also seems to meet a lot of your criteria:


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## dwebber18

Scottmb3 said:


> Hey dude, thanks a lot for the feedback! I will take this over to the design department and hopefully these are things we can incorporate into the design in the future. I think you are partially right in that since jackets such as the Mackinaw Cruiser have been around for so long, we are hesitant to make significant changes to the design.
> 
> We have started introducing jackets with lining, which is a pretty new addition to our line. My favorite jackets are all lined and part of our "Black Label."
> 
> I plan to stick around for a long time. As you can see, I joined about a year ago, but have been lurking since then; you guys have great taste! You should all feel free to ask me questions, provide feedback, or hit me up anytime!


Sorry for reviving a bit older thread but I thought it prudent to add some of my feedback. Last weekend I was able to try on both the lined Greenwood in wool and the Westlake in Shelter Cloth. I liked these very much especially considering I was wearing my Weekender which I struggled to put on over my flannel shirt. The lining in both was very nice and the fit on the Greenwood was more suitable to me than the Weekender. So, I have put my Weekender in the mail to exchange for a Westlake and ordered the Greenwood from the store I was at. I would have purchased them both in the store but they did not have the long sizes in stock that I need. I've been trying to wear the Weekender more often but I find that you need to layer and it's just a pain trying to get it on over a wool sweater and shirt combo. I felt a little cooped up in it since the jacket and the sweater grab each other and don't allow freedom of movement. I'm hoping that the Greenwood's lining solves this issue and my Filson coats will be what I grab most often.


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## Scottmb3

dwebber18 said:


> Sorry for reviving a bit older thread but I thought it prudent to add some of my feedback. Last weekend I was able to try on both the lined Greenwood in wool and the Westlake in Shelter Cloth. I liked these very much especially considering I was wearing my Weekender which I struggled to put on over my flannel shirt. The lining in both was very nice and the fit on the Greenwood was more suitable to me than the Weekender. So, I have put my Weekender in the mail to exchange for a Westlake and ordered the Greenwood from the store I was at. I would have purchased them both in the store but they did not have the long sizes in stock that I need. I've been trying to wear the Weekender more often but I find that you need to layer and it's just a pain trying to get it on over a wool sweater and shirt combo. I felt a little cooped up in it since the jacket and the sweater grab each other and don't allow freedom of movement. I'm hoping that the Greenwood's lining solves this issue and my Filson coats will be what I grab most often.


Hey, good to hear from you. I'm glad you were able to find a jacket that will work out better for you. If you sent your jacket in around the 4th, we may have already processed your return, so I wold expect to see the new one in the mail pretty soon.

I have the same issues as you with layering heavily under a jacket; I prefer to have a lined jacket that I don't need to layer under. I think the Greenwood will work out well for you. That is my most worn jacket, and I find it comfortable in a wide range of temperatures. I even wore it today, and somehow it's sunny here in Seattle today! :cool2:


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## tigerpac

Maybe not 100% on point, but the Japanese make a mean jacket that might fit the bill.

https://www.ironheart.co.uk/jackets/ihw-06.html


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## tocqueville

It's crazy what the Japanese do with Americana. Very impressive. Regrettably, very expensive as well.


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## tigerpac

^Agreed. I bought that jacket last year before the yen weakened, it was $50 more!

They build their clothes with incredible toughness. Have been wearing it out nights and weekends for 2 winters now and it still looks brand new.


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## Scottmb3

tocqueville said:


> It's crazy what the Japanese do with Americana. Very impressive. Regrettably, very expensive as well.


Whenever I think of Japanese Americana (which they indeed do well) I always laugh and think of this picture from a Japanese Filson distributor from a few years ago:


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## zzdocxx

How interesting.


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