# Ermengehildo Zegna VS Brioni



## video2 (Feb 11, 2008)

I have a question. Why Brioni is better then Ermengehildo Zegna top line?


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## pt4u67 (Apr 27, 2006)

These are always amusing questions, and no offense to video2.

I am of the belief, that with a few technical differences aside, all of the "high end" suits (Brioni, Oxxford, Kiton, et al.) are all similar in terms of quality. The only consideration at those price points is the cut, fit and the availability of the particular fabric the buyer wants.


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## David Reeves (Dec 19, 2008)

pt4u67 said:


> These are always amusing questions, and no offense to video2.
> 
> I am of the belief, that with a few technical differences aside, all of the "high end" suits (Brioni, Oxxford, Kiton, et al.) are all similar in terms of quality. The only consideration at those price points is the cut, fit and the availability of the particular fabric the buyer wants.


Those are quite important considerations though!

I actually have a lot more time for Zegna. It seems silly to buy essentially a Bespoke made suit off the rack and for the same price as Savile Row. Of course people have there reasons ie not enough time or inclination to go through the process but I think this is a poor attitude.

Out of those three mentioned I prefer kiton.


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## ToryBoy (Oct 13, 2008)

Amount of handwork and total work. 
From wiki, "Each garment requires at least 30-35 hours of work"; however, I think they mean for a suit (jacket and trousers) not one garment, while Harrods say 18 hours of work per garment. 

I have tried E. Zegna and Brioni sports-coats and there is only one winner, money aside (of course).


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## JibranK (May 28, 2007)

I've always had the impression (and tailors please correct me if I am wrong), that Brioni offers effectively all of the construction traits of bespoke - minus the key element (personal pattern). So, effectively, a Brioni suit is like a bespoke suit built to a standard size.


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## pkincy (Feb 9, 2006)

I wouldn't characterize one as "better" than the other at all.

I have a fair number of Brioni suits and jackets....say 10+. I also have 8+ Zegna's (normal top line not Su Misura). For me the Zegna at 1/2 the price is probably the better suit because OTR it fits me better and requires less tailoring. I am in between a 42L and 44L in Brioni so am a tough fit with them which brings into the equation the uncertain ability of the local alterations tailor. However I am a pretty good 54L in Zegna. I also tend to like the Zegna cut/style a bit better.

My favorite line is Kiton clearly. I am a perfect 54L OTR in Kiton and I love their fabrics and patterns and the 3 roll to 2 that I normally get.

Once you gain a preference for the fit/style/value proposition you will answer this question for yourself. And I will add a blanket statement. Either of the lines has enough quality for anyone no matter what you do.

Perry


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## From Vancouver (May 24, 2009)

Let us get this straight. E. Zegna's highlest line is called Couture. Su misura is just their made-to-measure program, available for Couture and the mainline Sartorial garments.

Now, Brioni comes in at a higher price point than Zegna, even Couture. I own both MTM Brioni and MTM Couture suits and have to say that each are worth the investment. There are differences in terms of construction and silhouette, but each have met my expectations. Each time I wear those suits, I am reminded of how wonderful they feel and how nice I look in them.

Money aside, I would guess that Brioni is the superior garment in terms of construction - the level of handwork, canvassing, and whatever else that goes into making a suit. I would need someone in the craft to confirm this suspicion.


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## jefferyd (Sep 5, 2008)

From Vancouver said:


> Money aside, I would guess that Brioni is the superior garment in terms of construction - the level of handwork, canvassing, and whatever else that goes into making a suit. I would need someone in the craft to confirm this suspicion.


There is certainly a greater amount of hand work in a Brioni than in the Couture suit, but whether that represents added value or just added money is open to debate. A brief look at some of the details that distinguish Couture from regular Zegna can be seen here.


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## Tim Correll (Jul 18, 2005)

JibranK said:


> I've always had the impression (and tailors please correct me if I am wrong), that Brioni offers effectively all of the construction traits of bespoke - minus the key element (personal pattern). So, effectively, a Brioni suit is like a bespoke suit built to a standard size.


All of what you said applies to Oxxford much more than it applies to Kiton and especially Brioni. And for considerably lower prices than Brioni and especially Kiton to boot.

Oxxford now starts at $2.4K (new entry level 1220 line) and $3K (new flagship Highest Quality line, the original Oxxford in construction and overall workmanship) for a made to measure suit (choice of full lining or any amount of partial lining in the jacket).

Oxxford's off the rack prices are 80 percent of made to measure prices while their made to order prices are 90 percent of their made to measure prices.

Kiton starts at $7K for a made to measure suit (any amount of partial lining in the jacket adds 30 percent of the jacket price to Kiton's made to measure prices).

Kiton's off the rack prices are 80 percent of made to measure prices while their made to order prices are 90 percent of their made to measure prices.

Brioni starts at $5K for a made to measure suit (any amount of partial lining in the jacket adds 20 percent of the jacket price to Brioni's made to measure prices).

Brioni's off the rack prices are 80 percent of made to measure prices while their made to order prices are 90 percent of their made to measure prices.


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## JibranK (May 28, 2007)

Audi S5 TC said:


> All of what you said applies to Oxxford much more than it applies to Kiton and especially Brioni. And for considerably lower prices than Brioni and especially Kiton to boot.
> 
> Oxxford now starts at $2.4K (new entry level 1220 line) and $3K (new flagship Highest Quality line, the original Oxxford in construction and overall workmanship) for a made to measure suit (choice of full lining or any amount of partial lining in the jacket).
> 
> ...


I wouldn't buy any of the three anyway. I could get bespoke in England for the same price.


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## shanshan (Jul 13, 2008)

JibranK said:


> I wouldn't buy any of the three anyway. I could get bespoke in England for the same price.


England vs. Italian are different suits... I find this whole "buying Brioni is stupid because I can get custom Saville Row for same price" a little ridiculous. If there was someone who could make Brioni shape and shoulder etc. for same price in Saville Row that would be another answer entirely (and more relevant). I for one love Isaia suits.. I would buy a custom suit that had same shape/quality at same price.. but that doesn't exist... I could get a Saville Row suit for same price custom.. but its not what I want..


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## ToryBoy (Oct 13, 2008)

shanshan said:


> England vs. Italian are different suits... I find this whole "buying Brioni is stupid because I can get custom Saville Row for same price" a little ridiculous.


Very valid point, it would like going to Huntsman and asking for an Anderson & Sheppard cut.

However, I understand what Jibran is saying, why pay so much for RTW when you get bespoke for that much. Harrods were selling a Brioni navy blazer for £1.8k last year, about the same price as Dege & Skinner (without vat).

There are houses on the Row that do not have a house styleand could do an Italian cut, but personally if I wanted an Italian style suit, I would go to someone who specialises in Italian cuts.


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## TheBigOne (Mar 5, 2008)

Zegna at half the Brioni price is a much better value and I love their sportscoats.


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## AMVanquish (May 24, 2005)

While their material and patterns are unmatched, I find myself turning away from Brioni lately in favor of Zegna. I'm speaking, of course, of the OTR selections. The Brioni look is a bit dated for me (low gorge and button stance on the two-button, lapels too wide and buttons too close together on the DB.) The Zegna look is a bit more contemporary.

Not that I can afford a custom Brioni any time soon, but would one be able to ask them to make it EXACTLY how you want it, or are there some stylistic details they won't compromise on, because they're signatures of the brand (i.e. height of gorge, width of lapel, etc?)


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## smr (Apr 24, 2005)

jefferyd said:


> There is certainly a greater amount of hand work in a Brioni than in the Couture suit, but whether that represents added value or just added money is open to debate. A brief look at some of the details that distinguish Couture from regular Zegna can be seen here.


Thanks for the link, jefferyd. Nice blog! Just bookmarked it, and look forward to your further dissections of various makers' garments.

Scott


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## JibranK (May 28, 2007)

shanshan said:


> England vs. Italian are different suits... I find this whole "buying Brioni is stupid because I can get custom Saville Row for same price" a little ridiculous. If there was someone who could make Brioni shape and shoulder etc. for same price in Saville Row that would be another answer entirely (and more relevant). I for one love Isaia suits.. I would buy a custom suit that had same shape/quality at same price.. but that doesn't exist... I could get a Saville Row suit for same price custom.. but its not what I want..


'Italian' and 'English' are not house styles in and of themselves. Rather, the style varies by firm within those countries, with some English firms closer in style to some Italian firms than to other English firms and vice versa.

If I'm not mistaken, one could get Rubinacci bespoke for Kiton mtm price, for example.


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## jefferyd (Sep 5, 2008)

smr said:


> Thanks for the link, jefferyd. Nice blog! Just bookmarked it, and look forward to your further dissections of various makers' garments.
> 
> Scott


Thanks!

As I get my hands on cast-offs from various makers I will be doing more dissections so people can see just how much of what type of work goes into each make. If anyone has a garment form an interesting maker which is not being worn anymore, I'd like to hear about it.


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## tomby (Nov 1, 2004)

1. If you are paying full retail for either, you're mad.

2. They are both nice and much better than average in construction. Zegna's more widely available and offers great fabrics; Brioni probably better made and cut varies widely between models. The Palantinio (sp?) is probably the most classic.

3. Fit, not the label, is king. Brioni may be a tad more unforgiving if you have an, ahem, "traditional American shape."

4. I have both and wear them all the time. That said, I prefer Isaia


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