# The gray flannel suit



## A.Squire (Apr 5, 2006)

I don't own one now nor have I ever. I came close recently but scrubbed the order just a day after placing it because I thought the color too dark and the cut & details lifeless. 
"Of course it's lifeless, it's a gray flannel suit"--Yeah, I knew you were going to say that. Which is exactly why I'm wondering if I shouldn't add a little life to it. 
"Leave it alone, you idiot; no need to monkey with something timeless and elegant." I thought you might say that as well.

I'd like to hear about your gray flannel suit(s)--some of you sticks probably own three, all the same no doubt.


----------



## AsherNM (Apr 3, 2006)

Flannel wool has an inimitable heft - heavier fabrics drape better. The gray flannel, IMO, exudes a quiet, comforting elegance, not unlike say, a good simple tweed. I own a flannel suit, but it's a charcoal-brownish pin- and bead-stripe affair from Caroll and Co, not trad per se.


----------



## tflaker (Jul 27, 2006)

Funny you should bring this up- I'm a sophmore in college and figure that it's time to invest in a good, conservative suit. I really like this grey flannel from Press.

https://www.jpressonline.com/suits_pressclusive_detail.php?ix=2

Yes, it's darted, but I love that color. I just don't know if I shouldn't get a worsted for my go-to suit instead of a flannel.

There's something attractively conservative to me about a solid grey flannel suit. Not to mention you're pretty much unlimited in terms of color when it comes to shirt, tie, and shoes.


----------



## PennGlock (Mar 14, 2006)

I think flannels have more character than their worsted brothers. You beat a gray flannel in slightly lighter shades of gray.

My favorite suit is a gray flannel. It's of an older vintage and the flannel is _thick,_ almost like felt. In this age of rediculously warm indoor office heating, it's hard to wear the thing.


----------



## jamgood (Feb 8, 2006)

Heathered Cambridge (similar to C.S.A.) gray/grey. 3 1/2 to 4 inch lapels. Post boy vest. Don't gain weight, wear it for 20 years. Chalk stripes if you're feelin' Anglo. Blue shirt. Suede cap-toes.

Assuming they're still in business > www.foxflannel.com


----------



## GBR (Aug 10, 2005)

A.Squire said:


> I don't own one now nor have I ever. I came close recently but scrubbed the order just a day after placing it because I thought the color too dark and the cut & details lifeless.
> "Of course it's lifeless, it's a gray flannel suit"--Yeah, I knew you were going to say that. Which is exactly why I'm wondering if I shouldn't add a little life to it.
> "Leave it alone, you idiot; no need to monkey with something timeless and elegant." I thought you might say that as well.
> 
> I'd like to hear about your gray flannel suit(s)--some of you sticks probably own three, all the same no doubt.


"Lifeless"? How do you mean? It one sense it is quiet but you have your tailor used bright linings and it can be worn worn interesting ties/pocket squares appropriate to the day.

Conservative yes but also a back cloth for many interesting ways. After all a bright suit would clash with many other garments.

Get one ordered but look t stipulating the details positively.


----------



## mpcsb (Jan 1, 2005)

Go on an' get it - you'll look as good as Gregory Peck - woof! :icon_smile_wink:


----------



## Cowtown (Aug 10, 2006)

My favorite suit is a MTM charcoal gray flannel with white pin stripes from Paul Stuart. It has side vents and a ticket pocket which may add a little extra character.


----------



## Harris (Jan 30, 2006)

Squire, I think you should go for it. Anything in the Southwick box that seems particularly Tom Rathish?

edit: I like the look of the fabric that Ben Silver chose for this year's flannel suit,


----------



## Tom Rath (May 31, 2005)

My favorite thing about a grey flannel suit is that it is the ultimate blank canvas. You can chose, through your shirt, tie, handkerchief and shoes, to either dress it up or down or to liven it up or keep it subdued. The heathered nature of the fabric gives it a certain character and lived in appearance that no other fabric can duplicate. They only improve with age, and useful colors range from pearl grey to the deepest charcoal.


----------



## bd79cc (Dec 20, 2006)

Squire, could your hesitation really be temperature-related? Any time I wear mine south of Philly, I spend the day sweating. 

A good grey flannel suit has a sublime, ineffable look not easily duplicated elsewhere. But in this day and age of good central heating, grey worsted's a lot more comfortable!


----------



## agnash (Jul 24, 2006)

A.Squire said:


> "Of course it's lifeless, it's a gray flannel suit".


I own a double breasted in medium gray, and I add life with boldly colored shirts, ties and squares. The perfection is in the combination ofe elements.


----------



## ksinc (May 30, 2005)

PennGlock said:


> I think flannels have more character than their worsted brothers. You beat a gray flannel in slightly lighter shades of gray.
> 
> My favorite suit is a gray flannel. It's of an older vintage and the flannel is _thick,_ almost like felt. In this age of rediculously warm indoor office heating, it's hard to wear the thing.


I totally agree! I think hard worsteds are "lifeless". Flannel also looks better in a mid-gray (Cambridge) than worsted IMHO. There are some light-weight flannels now - such as LP.


----------



## Rocker (Oct 29, 2004)

bd79cc said:


> Squire, could your hesitation really be temperature-related? Any time I wear mine south of Philly, I spend the day sweating.
> 
> A good grey flannel suit has a sublime, ineffable look not easily duplicated elsewhere. But in this day and age of good central heating, grey worsted's a lot more comfortable!


To true - I'm always attracted to flannel suits, in solids and chalk stripes - but the climate down here in Atlanta really only allows for 2-3 months of wear - and that might be pushing it. Very sad.


----------



## okdc (Aug 23, 2007)

ksinc said:


> I totally agree! I think hard worsteds are "lifeless". Flannel also looks better in a mid-gray (Cambridge) than worsted IMHO. There are some light-weight flannels now - such as LP.


ksinc - What is LP? I have always wanted a lighter wieght flannel.


----------



## jbryanb (Oct 2, 2006)

Squire,
I saw a medium gray flannel suit the other day that was absolutely gorgeous. It was a Samuelsohn, and had peak lapels and a ticket pocket. Not boring all. 
Perhaps a few details such as those would be the "life" you were looking to add to your suit?


----------



## Joe Tradly (Jan 21, 2006)

tflaker said:


> Funny you should bring this up- I'm a sophmore in college and figure that it's time to invest in a good, conservative suit. I really like this grey flannel from Press.
> 
> https://www.jpressonline.com/suits_pressclusive_detail.php?ix=2
> 
> ...


Not sure I would make a flannel your first good suit. Its wearing is limited to the cold months. If I were you, my first suit would be a navy blue pinstripe or charcoal gray worsted three-season. Something you can reasonably wear almost year-round.

JB


----------



## ksinc (May 30, 2005)

okdc said:


> ksinc - What is LP? I have always wanted a lighter wieght flannel.


https://www.loropiana.com/

Responded to your PM also.


----------



## A.Squire (Apr 5, 2006)

jbryanb said:


> Squire,
> I saw a medium gray flannel suit the other day that was absolutely gorgeous. It was a *Samuelsohn*, and had *peak lapels* and a *ticket pocket*. Not boring all.
> Perhaps a few details such as those would be the "life" you were looking to add to your suit?


Just what I had in mind. The fabric I should add was a brushed worsted weighing in at 9oz. Looked heavier that it really was or so I'm told.

Had the color been medium gray I would likely have kept the order.

I assume med. gray is the pref. color. Better than charcoal?--who's with me here?


----------



## Duck (Jan 4, 2007)

A.Squire said:


> Just what I had in mind. The fabric I should add was a brushed worsted weighing in at 9oz. Looked heavier that it really was or so I'm told.
> 
> Had the color been medium gray I would likely have kept the order.
> 
> I assume med. gray is the pref. color. Better than charcoal?--who's with me here?


I'm with you. I am not the biggest fan of charcoal.


----------



## mcarthur (Jul 18, 2005)

I like grey flannel suits however in the dead of winter due to my skin complexion I look like one step from the grave. All of my grey suits have been donated. My color is navy blue


----------



## Joe Tradly (Jan 21, 2006)

Although the flannel on the cover of the Fall BS catalog is quite nice. Not a dark charcoal, and NO DARTS.

JB


----------



## paper clip (May 15, 2006)

Joe Tradly said:


> Although the flannel on the cover of the Fall BS catalog is quite nice. Not a dark charcoal, and NO DARTS.
> 
> JB


That suit is indeed a beauty. My favorite clothing item in the catalog. (Behind the shoes and the one, grainy pic. of Sylvia)


----------



## A.Squire (Apr 5, 2006)

Harris said:


> Squire, I think you should go for it. Anything in the Southwick box that seems particularly Tom Rathish?
> 
> edit: I like the look of the fabric that Ben Silver chose for this year's flannel suit,


Tom the rep? You'll have to give me a little more. Really, H- I'm like five year old when it comes to people I should know. I meet so many, but I have a hard time remembering.

But I do know the right shade of gray when I see it and I couldn't agree more about the Ben Silver suit.

We talked last year, briefly as I recall, about a gray flannel with peaks and side vents. I remember you giving it the thumbs up, though you may have been only fooling. I'm curious to know your thoughts on that cut and if you think a 9 oz. would see only limited duty in the south.


----------



## Harris (Jan 30, 2006)

Hint: Sloan Wilson's creation. 

As for the flannel suit, I think the Douglas is the way to go. For me, anyway. You can get away with the peak lapel-side vent combo.

Edit: 9 oz. flannel in the south? Depends how far down, but almost definitely a January-February suit.


----------



## Harris (Jan 30, 2006)

Brooks offered a grey flannel sack as part of their 1818 suit collection (OTR) last year. To my knowledge it never appeared online. The year before that, a grey-white herringbone sack. It appears that this year's token sack in the 1818 collection is a light grey flannel chalk stripe. Even if the shoulder features some Douglas-like padding, I think the description is spot on:
_"relaxed fit, natural shoulders and easy-fitting trousers."_


----------



## Larsd4 (Oct 14, 2005)

I happened into the BB Mall of America store yesterday and they had a grey flannel with tan PS in the 1818 line. It fit me like a glove, and had excellent hand. It was on clearance at $598. Tempted but not enough.


----------



## kkollwitz (Oct 31, 2005)

I have a medium gray flannel suit...it is a joy. I believe flannel has a nurturing, romantic appeal due to its visual softness, and recalls the sheep the wool came from. The contrast between the soberness of a suit and the gentleness of flannel is terrific.


----------



## A.Squire (Apr 5, 2006)

kkollwitz said:


> I have a medium gray flannel suit...it is a joy. I believe flannel has a nurturing, romantic appeal due to its visual softness, and recalls the sheep the wool came from. The contrast between the soberness of a suit and the gentleness of flannel is terrific.


Great post.

I'm surprised by the responses. I thought the gray flannel was the ---T. Perhaps I should look into a grey herringbone. I read somewhere that it's the American look, when combined with well polished saddles.


----------



## A.Squire (Apr 5, 2006)

Harris said:


> Hint: Sloan Wilson's creation.
> 
> As for the flannel suit, I think the Douglas is the way to go. For me, anyway. You can get away with the peak lapel-side vent combo.
> 
> Edit: 9 oz. flannel in the south? Depends how far down, but almost definitely a January-February suit.


I'm such an idiot. Would you care to dance?--you lead.


----------



## spielerman (Jul 21, 2007)

o.k. here is your chance to get a flannel suit.


----------



## eg1 (Jan 17, 2007)

A custom-tailored 3pc in a slightly-darker-than-medium gray. It's right up there with navy among my favourites.


----------



## Harris (Jan 30, 2006)

There's something to be said for a vested flannel chalkstripe. Bold chalkstripe. In either grey or navy. You could pull either off easily, Squire.


----------



## ksinc (May 30, 2005)

FYI/FWIW: I just received a JAB Winter Preview Catalog. It looks like this year they have Flannel suits in the Executive line.

https://www.josbank.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Merchant_Id=1&Section_Id=&pcount=&Product_Id=398823

They also have a "flannel finish merino wool" Signature suit in a few patterns. YMMV 

https://www.josbank.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Merchant_Id=1&Section_Id=&pcount=&Product_Id=417431

I noticed they have a tan & brown check/houndstooth in the flannel finish. Perhaps that would cure what ills our Squire?


----------



## anglophile23 (Jan 25, 2007)

spielerman said:


> o.k. here is your chance to get a flannel suit.


Glad to see some ebay sellers know not to button the top button on sacks.


----------



## A.Squire (Apr 5, 2006)

spielerman said:


> o.k. here is your chance to get a flannel suit.


Looks to be about the shade I initially picked, and later walked away from. But who knows?--hard to tell with swatches.

*the suit is the wrong size for me.
**plus it's got a pin stuck in the seat or something.


----------

