# Vintage penny loafers on eBay...



## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Calling some of these shoes "vintage" might be pushing it a bit, but I want to post a few older pairs of penny loafers for members to look out for on eBay. Today these brands have pretty much gone downmarket with cheap, glossy shoes, but at one time they offered some good quality footwear. The photos below are for reference for regular eBay hounds.

*SAS* recently re-introduced its handsewn penny loafers with leather soles, but decided to go with glossy uppers. Although they are still well made and good quality (the shaped & padded insole is great), the appearance of the uppers is very disappointing. Here's an old pair back when they used good leathers for the uppers.

https://img185.imageshack.us/my.php?image=151119692ond0.jpghttps://img185.imageshack.us/my.php?image=151119965osl2.jpg
https://img144.imageshack.us/my.php?image=151120604ofy5.jpghttps://img144.imageshack.us/my.php?image=151120294ork1.jpg

*L.L. Bean* has always offered penny loafers, mostly beefrolls, but the latest ones are glossy (although they _are_ currently offering a tan similar to the recent Weejun colour). Here is an older pair from Bean which look great.

https://img144.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bean16bpr7.jpg
https://img144.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bean16ach5.jpg
https://img144.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bean16czl3.jpg

*Dexter* sold these penny loafers some years ago, which may have been called the "Hudson". One of my bosses has a pair of these which he bought in 1996 and in my opinion they are much nicer than anything Bass or Sebago has offered: the leathers are good quality, soft, and stitching is tight. The soles are made of good leathers. These are definitely something to look for on eBay.

https://img144.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dexter1yr3.jpg
https://img174.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dexter2ale5.jpg

I hope these photos are useful. I think there are some gems on eBay that get overlooked when all we search for is "weejuns"...


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## Quay (Mar 29, 2008)

Dear Doctor,

Thank you for posting these pictures! They are most helpful to me and will certainly help to enlarge my search parameters, on Ebay and other places. I'd completely forgotten about Dexter having any offerings.

Cordially,
Adrian Quay


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## jamgood (Feb 8, 2006)

If you'll eBay shoe search McAfee and then check out the other listings of the seller of the size 9.5 you'll spot a pair of what appear to be black 9.5 WeeJuns (pre-owned) for about $5 as of a few hours ago. The seller did not identify them as WeeJuns because she could not read the sock liner. I could be wrong (just glanced) and they may not be WeeJuns, but I think they are flying under the radar.


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## Welton'82 (Mar 17, 2008)

jamgood said:


> If you'll eBay shoe search McAfee and then check out the other listings of the seller of the size 9.5 you'll spot a pair of what appear to be black 9.5 WeeJuns (pre-owned) for about $5 as of a few hours ago. The seller did not identify them as WeeJuns because she could not read the sock liner. I could be wrong (just glanced) and they may not be WeeJuns, but I think they are flying under the radar.


I just bought them for $12.71, with the shipping costs included. I figured that at that price, I couldn't go wrong. Thanks for the heads up!!!


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## Clay J (Apr 29, 2008)

There are also some vintage Cole Haans that look extremely similar to Weejuns out there. I think they are from the early 80's, and seem to be high quality.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

The brown brogues I just posted in "WAYW" are vintage Dexters. Quite well made, and I got them for $20. Too bad Dexter doesn't have any sort of recrafting service.


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## clemsontiger (Jun 9, 2007)

Welton'82 said:


> I just bought them for $12.71, with the shipping costs included. I figured that at that price, I couldn't go wrong. Thanks for the heads up!!!


I almost bought them, i was waiting on the seller to send me pics of the soles. Congrats on the shoes, let us know how they turn out.


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## Welton'82 (Mar 17, 2008)

clemsontiger said:


> I almost bought them, i was waiting on the seller to send me pics of the soles. Congrats on the shoes, let us know how they turn out.


I will. There's a chance they may not fit, since the seller wasn't totally certain of the size. I'll resell them on eBay and let you know.


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## Welton'82 (Mar 17, 2008)

Welton'82 said:


> I will. There's a chance they may not fit, since the seller wasn't totally certain of the size. I'll resell them on eBay and let you know.


Well, they didn't fit. I estimate the size to be 10D. I have them relisted on eBay in case anyone's interested. They're in pretty good shape - 6 out of 10. I cleaned and polished them so they look nice. Soles are good, heels are fair.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

I highly recommend that members add Dexter to their eBay searches for penny loafers.

The *Dexter "Hudson"* was a great penny loafer, made in the USA (at least through the mid-1990s). I'm seeing plenty of these shoes on eBay, most in brand-new condition(!).

https://img186.imageshack.us/my.php?image=copyof5329ajt6.jpghttps://g.imageshack.us/thpix.phphttps://img505.imageshack.us/my.php?image=copyof5329bab9.jpghttps://img186.imageshack.us/my.php?image=copyof5329cdm4.jpghttps://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php

Although the design didn't change, before they were discontinued the leathers became more glossy like modern Bass and Sebago. Based on my records, they were discontinued in 2005 or thereabouts.

https://img505.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dexterhudsonfz6.jpg

These should definitely go on the search list of trads who use eBay.


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## Thom Browne's Schooldays (Jul 29, 2007)

If I can be so bold...
any tips on what too look for in Weejuns listed on ebay (such as how to avoid the shiny finish everyone hates)?


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Thom Browne's Schooldays said:


> If I can be so bold...
> any tips on what too look for in Weejuns listed on ebay (such as how to avoid the shiny finish everyone hates)?


I have a bunch of photos of older Weejuns when they were made in the USA. I will try to post them in the next few days for reference. Ironically, these photos reveal that the shoes were never sophisticated in construction -- quite crude, actually -- but the quality of the materials was far superior in the past. That seemed to make all the difference.


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## Simon Syngen Clancy (Jun 4, 2008)

I have a pair of Bean in brown. Brilliant! Very comfortable. Highly recommended


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

*Made in the USA Weejuns...*

The following *Bass Weejuns* are all made in the USA. The oldest ones have obviously high-quality leather soles (such as the fourth pair, and the black pair (in three photos)). You can tell the leather is high quality by how clear the "G H Bass" stamp is in the sole leather; cheaper leathers don't hold stamps well. Also, higher-quality uppers will hold the shape of the last better (more shapely).

https://img383.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bass64asize8dhh2.jpghttps://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php

https://img519.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bass68asize11nv6.jpg

https://img513.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bass69asize9kz0.jpghttps://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php

https://img513.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bass71size9un4.jpghttps://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php

https://img519.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bass66bxr8.jpg

https://img366.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bass83bds2.jpghttps://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php

https://img519.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bass100abz2.jpghttps://img366.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bass100bpp4.jpghttps://g.imageshack.us/thpix.phphttps://img366.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bass100cwl5.jpghttps://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php

The following pair is from the "Heritage Collection", in brown suede. I've never heard of that so it must be a few years old, but not too old since the shoes depicted look like a recent model by their shape.

https://img366.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bass93asize12dyg6.jpghttps://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php


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## jamgood (Feb 8, 2006)

I think the first pair is the oldest judging by the heel. I may be wrong but they could possibly date from the early '70s, or older.


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## Mel (Dec 12, 2006)

*SAS penny loafers*

I agree the SAS penny loafers have high gloss and are only available in cordovan and black but they are made in the US and leather lined and as Dr. D notes very well made. I got my first pair 3 months ago and they are great! The gloss and color are a trade off. Has anyone heard that the factory in Maine where they are made (not San Antonio) is going out of business? (it is what the store in Williamsburg told me)


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

*Identifying vintage Weejuns...*

Which "vintage" Weejuns on eBay are actually vintage? I think we can be pretty sure about this and offer some pointers. PGolden posted this old Weejun advertisement from the 1960s, which shows one important detail clearly: the logo on the sock liner. I think this can be used to date these shoes, along with a few other details.

Details to look for:
1. Weejuns logo on sock liner which has the "j" as a lower-case, golf-club shape. The sock liner has no perforations and the logo is printed (not embossed).
2. Heels which are all-leather, or have a 45% rubber insert.
3. Reddish colour, matte (no shine or gloss).

Observations made by Jamgood here agree with these details. Jamgood makes the point that 1980s Weejuns had a different logo embossed into the sock liner (not printed), so that's useful clue.

Now for some photo examples. Based on PGolden's advertisement, the first three pairs below I believe are probably from the 1960s or thereabouts.

https://img504.imageshack.us/my.php?image=79000880pa4.jpg
https://img184.imageshack.us/my.php?image=88104173ug7.jpg
https://img504.imageshack.us/my.php?image=58847197oa8.jpg

The three pairs below are likely nearly as old, but note the rubber insert in the heels. Note the obvious quality of the outsole of the first pair: it's so good it can give a sharp impression of the G H Bass & Co script.

https://img142.imageshack.us/my.php?image=87685404bg2.jpg
https://img184.imageshack.us/my.php?image=59242735nm3.jpg
https://img504.imageshack.us/my.php?image=38853831rk0.jpg

The two pairs below certainly seem old (based on the sock liner) but have a full-rubber heel and strange stitching on the soles. These are presumably of a later date, although I'd bet probably still pre-1980s. I suspect the modern-looking box in the background of the last photo is probably not original to the shoes depicted.

https://img504.imageshack.us/my.php?image=w10zs9.jpg
https://img504.imageshack.us/my.php?image=w11sn5.jpg

Agree? Disagree? Can anyone confirm these details from their own shoe collection?

DD


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Just a few observations on the *Brooks Brothers / Sebago* penny loafers, which are basically a Sebago Cayman with a few details specific to BB. The photo below shows how they looked up to summer 2003. Note the typical Cayman flat strap construction, but with the "flying wing" cutout -- the regular Sebago Cayman I of this period had the "half moon" cutout. Note also that these BB shoes never had the extra row of stitching around the apron, as did the Sebago Cayman I.

https://img11.imageshack.us/my.php?image=brooksold2.jpg

In summer 2003 the design changed slightly and has remained unchanged since (see photo below). Note the new "half moon" cutout on the strap, but in particular observe that the BB cutout is upside-down compared to the cutout on the regular Sebago brand Cayman II model.

https://img261.imageshack.us/my.php?image=brookscurrent.jpg

Thus you can differentiate, at a glance, the BB/Sebago from the regular Sebago models. The BB shoes have either the "flying wing" cutout or the upside-down "half moon" cutout. As far as I know, BB has not sold a beefroll at this price level for a long time.

Obviously the BB/Sebago shoes were made in the USA, like all original Sebago and BB shoes, until about 2004/2005. I'm not sure of the exact date when the "imported" version began to be sold by BB, but it was in those years. The shoes shown in the photos above were both made in the USA, both the "flying wing" and "half moon" cutouts, so the design change happened about a year before production went offshore.

I know these are probably trivial details, but for eBay hounds it's worth knowing.


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