# Rate the Jermyn Street Shirtmakers



## DukeWindsor (Apr 7, 2006)

How do this forum's users rate the quality of the following shirtmakers (that I have listed in no particular order):
Turnbull and Asser
Hawes and Curtis
Hilditch and Key
T M Lewin
Harvie and Hudson
Thomas Pink

. . . and any others I didn't think of off hand.

I left out Tyrwhitt purposely because I know most would rate it at the bottom.


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## Cantabrigian (Aug 29, 2005)

Hilditch 
Turnbull


Harvie 
Pink

Lewin
Tyrwhitt



Hawkes 

(is how I would put the quality - value may be another story)


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## Alfie (Mar 23, 2006)

T&A all the way.

Procrastinators of the World Uniteâ€¦..
Tomorrow


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## Sylas (Mar 23, 2006)

Turnbull & Asser
Hilditch and Key
Harvie Hudson
I believe the rest are cheap junk shirts made all over the world to a poor standard.
[xx(]


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## Faizal (Mar 22, 2006)

If I had a nickle every time that question (or a question similar to that)was posted on this forum... anyway, I'm a little surprised New & Lingwood didn't make it on the list.


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

A very complete discussion of this subject can be found here:

With additional information here:

*https://www.CustomShirt1.com

Kabbaz-Kelly & Sons Fine Custom Clothiers
* Bespoke Shirts & Furnishings * Zimmerli Swiss Underwear **
* Alex Begg Cashmere * Pantherella Socks **​


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## medwards (Feb 6, 2005)

A little piece in _Forbes_ on these shirtmakers (including a nicely illustrated slideshow):

https://www.forbes.com/2004/12/14/cx_cd_1214feat.html?partner=lifestyle_newsletter

And a very old -- but interesting -- piece from _The Ritz Magazine_ on Harvie & Hudson, Hilditch & Key, and Turnbull & Asser:

And just a few past Ask Andy threads:

Hilditch & Key:

Hawes & Curtis:

Harvie & Hudson

Turnbull & Asser:

Lewin:

Pink:

Coles:

bespoke and/or made-to-measure:

fit:


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## Alexander Kabbaz (Jan 9, 2003)

Medwards: Disgusting, absolutely disgusting! 

*https://www.CustomShirt1.com

Kabbaz-Kelly & Sons Fine Custom Clothiers
* Bespoke Shirts & Furnishings * Zimmerli Swiss Underwear **
* Alex Begg Cashmere * Pantherella Socks **​


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## Cantabrigian (Aug 29, 2005)

out 
of 
con-trol


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## DukeWindsor (Apr 7, 2006)

Thank you medwards for the list. Being new here, I wasn't aware of the long history, which can being tedious to all the longstanding members.


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## Morris (Feb 13, 2006)

Given these sentiments, H&K and H&H would make a killing in NYC if they opened up shops (understanding the poor quality/choice of American RTW shirts).

Pink and CT seem to be the only RTW choices for those unwilling to pay T&A prices. Although the value proposition at Pink is quite poor.

-- Never offend people with style when you can offend them with substance.


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## dflores107 (Nov 9, 2004)

You can get Hilditch shirts at Saks, they have a pretty large offering, I think.


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## CharlieChannel (Mar 16, 2006)

Hilditch & Key

Turnbull & Asser
Harvie & Hudson
CEGO in New York City

Charlie Channel-hunter


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## medwards (Feb 6, 2005)

> quote:_Originally posted by Morris_
> 
> Given these sentiments, H&K and H&H would make a killing in NYC if they opened up shops (understanding the poor quality/choice of American RTW shirts).


Morris: Unfortunately, many similar undertakings have not been terribly successful in the past. New York is a very competitive environment. Costs are very high The challenges of maintaining an international operation are rather daunting. In the end, it is often far easier -- and financially sound -- to let other retailers stock your product or to have one's customers come to you.  I should note that Harvie & Hudson do travel to the United States to attend to bespoke customers, visiting New York, Boston, Washington DC, Chicago, Los Angeles and San Francisco. Likewise, Hilditch & Key travels to New York, Boston, Washington and San Francisco.


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## Morris (Feb 13, 2006)

> quote:_Originally posted by medwards_
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Interesting point. Particularly on costs ... to wit Thomas Pink's pricing in Manhattan is on the agressive side.

-- Never offend people with style when you can offend them with substance.


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## WinstonSpencer (Mar 12, 2006)

I hate to belabor the point, but in a previous post I mentioned the "Made in Ireland" Pinks, that are appearing in the US. Are these garbage as well...or is the Celtic Tiger producing a quality garment? Pink makes a interesting "travel" shirt. They are shipping me an Irish made version this week.


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## Blackadder (Apr 3, 2004)

In its early (and good value days) all Pink shirts were made in Ireland. (To my knowledge, their shirts have never been made in the UK.)

After LVMH bought the brand about seven years ago, they expanded the operation and about four years ago transferred almost all shirt production to the 3d World. After having been a customer for almost a decade, about 2 years ago I bought a poorly made, ill-fitting and expensive Pink shirt manufactured in Morocco (albeit with MOP buttons -- a new development) and have never set foot in one of their shops since.

Perhaps the Made in Ireland promotion (and this is the first I've heard of it) is meant to trick us into believing there has been a return to quality.


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## pinchi22 (Sep 30, 2004)

I would place Emma Willis at the top of the current pack. Not cheap, and lacks the pedigree of its peers, but the luxurious and colorful batiste shirts more than compensate, IMHO.


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## Mitchell (Apr 25, 2005)

I used to wear Brooks MTM neckband (tunic) shirts. I started to use Coles last year. the first 2 shirts wear fine and the service good. In December I placed an order for 3 more and I had service problems with them, but their people are quite nice to deal with.

I just met Mssrs. Harvie and Hudson in Chicgo a few weeks ago during their trunk show. I ordered 6 shirts. The variety of fabrics, colors and patterns combined with Mssrs Harvie and Hudson's good nature and knowledge were hard to pass up. I will report results when the shirts arrive.

Mitch

Mitch


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## JAK (Feb 28, 2007)

I know Turnbull can not even pattern match the collars?


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## JAK (Feb 28, 2007)

Just get on their mailing list and receive a catalog about every quarter


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## Mannix (Nov 24, 2008)

Turnbull & Asser is the best. I disagree with some of you about Hawes & Curtis, but that's a matter of opinion and I really like them. I hate H&K, most of their patterns are ugly and I don't think the quailty is that good. Thomas Pink I have a great dislike for, but only becuase I was stalked by a Thomas Pink employee. He followed me all over after I left the store....what a creepy guy.


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## JibranK (May 28, 2007)

JAK said:


> I know Turnbull can not even pattern match the collars?


Thomas Mahon explains that it is not possible to perfectly pattern-match *and* achieve proper bespoke fit. He was talking about suits but I assume the same goes for shirts.


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## dfloyd (May 7, 2006)

*My favorite is H&H rtw, and I have some nice shirts ....*

from Coles. I'm not a fan of H&K. I don't like their collars or the fact they use no interlining in their cuffs and collars, making them a bear to iron. T&A plays games in the US, making you call the NY store to order with no website for the US.

No one has mentioned Duchamp which has a store on Jermyn St. They make a quality shirt, although they may be too fashion forward for most on this forum. I have four of their shirts and ties and they are really quality. Their 120, 2 ply shirts are as soft as silk and iron beautifully. On their web, it says that all their shirts and ties are made in England. Shirts run about 105 BPS and ties 75 BPS. However, they have sales twice a year with 30 to 50% off. The above prices include the VAT, which is deducted from a US order.


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## HISMES PARIS (Mar 26, 2008)

Medwards, I think your title should be "Honored Compiler" instead of "Honored Professor," which is not to say that you don't have a lot to teach as well, but I don't think anyone compiles like you do.


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## moss01 (Dec 6, 2008)

Probably best to compare the RTW lines separately from the MTM or bespoke.


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