# Penny loafers: how comfortable are they?



## tocqueville (Nov 15, 2009)

Gentlemen,

I keep eying Rancourt beefroll loafers, thinking they might be my ideal summer shoe. #8 CXL. I hesitate over the sole: Standard leather would look the best, but if I want these to be my go-to summer shoes, I'm wondering if I need something more comfy for lots of walking. So I'm thinking maybe Rancourt's RLH. Here's a pic:









Am I over thinking this? Would I regret leather? Would I regret not getting the leather? Yes, I tend to agonize over purchases. I'm not one of those people who can afford to just collect different versions of the same thing. This may be my one shoe purchase for a while.


----------



## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

It really depends on how much walking you plan to do. I wear leather soled pennies almost every day in the summer but not when I plan to do any amount of walking. I usually pic camp mocs, blucher mocs or boat shoes when I know I'm going to be on the move. It's not necessarily that I find the leather soles uncomfortable, it's just that the rubber soles are more versatile over a variety of terrain and I feel much more sure-footed in them over leather soles when out and about. Though I typically prefer the most classic version of any item, my vote is for the RLH soles or even a honey camp sole with those beef rolls.


----------



## TradThrifter (Oct 22, 2012)

I like to wear leather soles only when I plan to be seated for extended periods of time. If I'm going to be on my feet I prefer boat or tennis shoes.


----------



## rsgordon (Dec 6, 2012)

I understand the anti-hiking in weejuns talk, but as a college kid I have boat shoes as about my only other casual alternative. I have played soccer and run relatively long distances to class in my favorite everyday loafers -some never worn ancient USA made weejuns I had snagged on ebay. 

I am no expert, so I would entertain the argument that I may be damaging my feet (I would have been even more partial to such an argument when I first started wearing loafers), but now they are my comfort zone and everything else feels slightly off.


----------



## mayostard (Mar 10, 2013)

I have the PRL-branded rancourt beefrolls with the leather sole. They are pretty comfy IMO but I think the answer to your question is basically "how much is 'lots of walking' to you and what are you wearing now in those situations?"


----------



## godan (Feb 10, 2010)

I have no Rancourts. Whenever I am tempted by good reports here, I look in the closet to see my eight pairs of Pennies, mostly AE's and Aldens. All have leather soles because none were worn walking outdoors for any great distance. They were, and occasionally still are, semi-dress shoes, paired with sport coats, a blazer, etc., but not a suit, for indoor wear. As for comfort, I buy all loafers, like all boat shoes and camp mocs, a half size too small, which is really a quarter size for me, and walk them to fit over damp socks. This gets them to a perfect size that seems to endure without slipping or stretching further.


----------



## tocqueville (Nov 15, 2009)

I think in most days I wouldn't wear them more than any of my leather soled shoes, but in the summer I'm more likely to travel and do lots of walking then.

It's possible that I'm asking too much of a single pair of shoes. I've thought this before: if I could afford it, perhaps what I really want are leather soled beefrolls for most uses but then a pair of ranger mocs with a vibram or RLH sole for those heavy-duty walking uses.

My go to shoes for travelling and walking are AE Wilberts, but they aren't as nice looking as the beefrolls, and also they can't be worn sockless and thuse with shorts. So there I am, walking in the heat in jeans/chinos and my Wilberts. I intend to wear whatever it is I purchase with no-show socks.


----------



## rsgordon (Dec 6, 2012)

Would you be open to the idea of buying a modestly priced pair of beefrolls to experiment with? If you can stand them, then the follow-up purchase could only be a better experience and you will have a better idea of the things you value in the shoes.


----------



## Starch (Jun 28, 2010)

My own take:

Penny loafers are fine for anything short of actual hiking (meaning walking miles on a trail with rocks, bumps, tree roots, mud and the like). But boat shoes or camp mocs are also wrong for actual hiking, where you want hiking boots. In terms of function, the only situation in which I'd prefer boat shoes / camp mocs to penny loafers is if they're going to get dirty, wet or banged up.


----------



## Himself (Mar 2, 2011)

I'll walk all day in boat shoes, but they conform to the foot better and the heel stays put. Loafers are too sloppy fitting, and too slippery with leather soles. For lots of walking, you may want rubber soles, and laces.

Leather soles wear out, and when wet, quickly. Rubber may outlast the rest of the shoe.


----------



## rwaldron (Jun 22, 2012)

This pair has had my attention for a while:



I'm sure they'd do those in Beef roll for you if you asked nicely. Though, they're just not quite as nice looking as those leather soled ones.


----------



## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

tocqueville said:


> Gentlemen,
> 
> I keep eying Rancourt beefroll loafers, thinking they might be my ideal summer shoe. #8 CXL. I hesitate over the sole: Standard leather would look the best, but if I want these to be my go-to summer shoes, I'm wondering if I need something more comfy for lots of walking. So I'm thinking maybe Rancourt's RLH. Here's a pic:
> 
> ...


The shoes that you reference are a #8 toned version of the Beefroll Penny loafers of the natural toned CxL Penny Loafers that Rancourt made for me. The Lactae hevea sole is just as comfortable as plantation crepe soles and much more durable than plantation crepe soles. The shoes are comfortable to walk in all day long, day after day and indeed they hold up surprisingly well to the abuse! My recommendation is that you go with your original inclinations on this one. :thumbs-up:


----------



## tocqueville (Nov 15, 2009)

What do you make of RLH versus the cristy sole? Not for the loafer: i wouldnt put a cristy on a loafer. But maybe a ranger moc. Which sole is better for walking?


----------



## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

tocqueville said:


> What do you make of RLH versus the cristy sole? Not for the loafer: i wouldnt put a cristy on a loafer. But maybe a ranger moc. Which sole is better for walking?


A cristy wedge is light-weight and comfortable, but I wouldn't exactly call it a "walking sole." It's meant for construction work in finished spaces as the soles have a very shallow tread and a non-marking sole to avoid tracking mud or marring new flooring.


----------



## chilton (Jul 16, 2008)

Call me crazy, my LHS (#8, suede, calfskin) are some of my most comfortable shoes to walk in- even more than boat shoes. Bucks are maybe a little better.

The catch is, the fronts are topied and I'm mindful of my gait to minimize odd heel wear. The topies really help with comfort since they prevent slippage. I walk a lot and have been carless in DC for two years. Still on the original soles/heels/topies, if it's not raining I'm most likely wearing my LHS.


----------



## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

tocqueville said:


> What do you make of RLH versus the cristy sole? Not for the loafer: i wouldnt put a cristy on a loafer. But maybe a ranger moc. Which sole is better for walking?


I have a white Cristy wedge sole on a pair og #8 CxL Ranger Mocs and as hardline 42 opined, the RLH sole is a much better walking sole than the Cristy wedge. The RLH sole is more flexible and even seems to absorb the bumps in the road a bit more efficiently that the cristy sole.


----------



## Barnavelt (Jul 31, 2012)

There have been so many iterations of the post I am now writing; heck, I think I myself have written this post before although I am not positive . I love the concept and look of loafers but fit has always been an issue I just can't get over. I have a pair of AE Kenwood beefrolls and I think they look excellent, but even after sizing down and trying to convince myself they fit "like a loafer should" I have to admit there is too much slop in the fit. I have countered the issue somewhat with heel pads and tongue pads and this makes them wearable, but when wearing them I can never forget to walk such that they don't flip off my foot, and that is far from the relaxing "loafer experience" for which I am looking. 

I have read with interest the Alden threads and it seems that most owners made the LHS their first purchase. If one were to buy shell cordovan LHS with the intention of most often going sockless, would one size down? By this I do not mean the 1/2 sizing down one would do for the Barrie because of the last, but rather sizing down so the loafer would develop a more secure fit after a wearing in period. Would it make any difference if they were shell or calf? Input from seasoned Alden owners is most appreciated, and, no, unfortunately trying them on in-store is not an option as there are no dealers near me.


----------



## L-feld (Dec 3, 2011)

Barnavelt said:


> There have been so many iterations of the post I am now writing; heck, I think I myself have written this post before although I am not positive . I love the concept and look of loafers but fit has always been an issue I just can't get over. I have a pair of AE Kenwood beefrolls and I think they look excellent, but even after sizing down and trying to convince myself they fit "like a loafer should" I have to admit there is too much slop in the fit. I have countered the issue somewhat with heel pads and tongue pads and this makes them wearable, but when wearing them I can never forget to walk such that they don't flip off my foot, and that is far from the relaxing "loafer experience" for which I am looking.
> 
> I have read with interest the Alden threads and it seems that most owners made the LHS their first purchase. If one were to buy shell cordovan LHS with the intention of most often going sockless, would one size down? By this I do not mean the 1/2 sizing down one would do for the Barrie because of the last, but rather sizing down so the loafer would develop a more secure fit after a wearing in period. Would it make any difference if they were shell or calf? Input from seasoned Alden owners is most appreciated, and, no, unfortunately trying them on in-store is not an option as there are no dealers near me.


Loafers and Laces in Harbor East and Samuel Parker in Lake Falls Village both carry them.

I actually went over to L&L last week to try on some LHS's, since I'm having a similar fit issue with loafers. If you need wides, they don't stock them, but they can order them. I normally wear an 11eee, and the 11.5d seemed to fit pretty well. I couldn't even get the 11d onto my foot.

I still had the owner order the 11e so I could try that. He also mentioned that he does shoe stretching and if the 11e was still a hair too small, he could stretch is out just enough so it was a secure fit on my foot.


----------



## Barnavelt (Jul 31, 2012)

L-feld said:


> Loafers and Laces in Harbor East and Samuel Parker in Lake Falls Village both carry them.
> 
> I actually went over to L&L last week to try on some LHS's, since I'm having a similar fit issue with loafers. If you need wides, they don't stock them, but they can order them. I normally wear an 11eee, and the 11.5d seemed to fit pretty well. I couldn't even get the 11d onto my foot.
> 
> I still had the owner order the 11e so I could try that. He also mentioned that he does shoe stretching and if the 11e was still a hair too small, he could stretch is out just enough so it was a secure fit on my foot.


Hmm Samuel Parker eh? Is that in Mt Washington? Thank you very very much for the information; that will most likely change my tact in this situation! I went to Van **** and Bacon a few months ago because they are listed as carrying Alden on the Alden website but the (excellent) staff informed me they can order but don't have in-store stock, so I suppose I thought these other businesses may not have physical stock either.

In any case.. I think I will have to make a detour next time I am driving for work and check them out!

EDIT: I just checked out the Samuel Parker website; wow! I had no idea this place existed but it looks fabulous. I thought Eddie Jacobs was the only independent haberdasher in that part of town but this place most definitely warrants checking out. Ah pity my poor tax refund it will be quickly spent.


----------



## throwback91 (Oct 1, 2012)

Barnavelt said:


> There have been so many iterations of the post I am now writing; heck, I think I myself have written this post before although I am not positive . I love the concept and look of loafers but fit has always been an issue I just can't get over. I have a pair of AE Kenwood beefrolls and I think they look excellent, but even after sizing down and trying to convince myself they fit "like a loafer should" I have to admit there is too much slop in the fit. I have countered the issue somewhat with heel pads and tongue pads and this makes them wearable, but when wearing them I can never forget to walk such that they don't flip off my foot, and that is far from the relaxing "loafer experience" for which I am looking.
> 
> I have read with interest the Alden threads and it seems that most owners made the LHS their first purchase. If one were to buy shell cordovan LHS with the intention of most often going sockless, would one size down? By this I do not mean the 1/2 sizing down one would do for the Barrie because of the last, but rather sizing down so the loafer would develop a more secure fit after a wearing in period. Would it make any difference if they were shell or calf? Input from seasoned Alden owners is most appreciated, and, no, unfortunately trying them on in-store is not an option as there are no dealers near me.


The slippage issue is interesting. Unfortunately, probably the most popular footwear in the country right now is the flip flop. I can't think of a more insecure "shoe" for a man, yet they are worn daily. I think it's a matter of just getting over the notion that the foot will fall out. I see businessmen wearing Aldens and other types of loafers and their heel is lifting in and out of the shoe. Yet they are still very comfortable and they don't fall off.


----------



## L-feld (Dec 3, 2011)

Barnavelt said:


> Hmm Samuel Parker eh? Is that in Mt Washington? Thank you very very much for the information; that will most likely change my tact in this situation! I went to Van **** and Bacon a few months ago because they are listed as carrying Alden on the Alden website but the (excellent) staff informed me they can order but don't have in-store stock, so I suppose I thought these other businesses may not have physical stock either.
> 
> In any case.. I think I will have to make a detour next time I am driving for work and check them out!
> 
> EDIT: I just checked out the Samuel Parker website; wow! I had no idea this place existed but it looks fabulous. I thought Eddie Jacobs was the only independent haberdasher in that part of town but this place most definitely warrants checking out. Ah pity my poor tax refund it will be quickly spent.


Ken Himmelstein is good people and his store is very nice. His store is a little more expensive and British-leaning than Eddie Jacobs. If Eddie's store is the J Press of Baltimore, Ken's store is our Ben Silver.


----------



## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

There's a real danger of over-thinking sizing and heel slippage for loafers and I am always suspicious of recommendations to size down. Once the soles wear in and soften up, heel slippage will either go away or the shoes will be so soft you won't care about heel slippage. Of course, heavy goodyear welted loafers which are constructed the same way as longwing brogues are not really loafers but simply laceups without laces. Loafers should have thin soles and lightweight uppers (ideally unlined), and have a shape that grabs the foot. I have bought loafers which I can wear right from the box all day long, so they do exist.


----------



## Charles Saturn (May 27, 2010)

+1 for the reltex soles. Love them.


----------



## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

My personal opinion on heel slippage is that I hate it. As we speak, I'm breaking in a pair of NOS Allen Edmonds Camerons. They're my absolute favorite OTR penny and I buy them every time I see a decent pair on eBay. They're also the ones that fit best but only after an excruciating break-in (usually only lasts about a day, though). Despite the fact that they're painfully tight when new, they feel great afterward and I get zero heel slippage. FWIW, I buy them true to size, so I assume they're sized that way with the eventual fit in mind. I've never had a pair of pennies that fit comfortably out of the box that didn't eventually take on an intolerable amount of heel slop.


----------



## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

For me, part of the charm of good quality loafers is that they eventually stretch and a bit too big. As long as they don't rub, then I'm happy. In hot weather, having shoes which allow air to flow in and out is a positive.


----------



## Barnavelt (Jul 31, 2012)

On L-feld's recommend I today visited Samuel Parker here in Baltimore and I was blown away,not only by the array of high quality offerings, but by the gracious and entirely enjoyable interaction with Ken, the owner. I will sum it up thus; as a teenager Ken worked in a well known haberdasher. All these years later he bought the rights to the shirt label (of course the business itself is long gone) and he has labels identical to those of the shop made in Italy. They now grace the collars of his own line of high quality tradly OCBDs. I bought a Ralph bleeding madras long sleeve. I will be back!


----------



## cliffc123 (Aug 2, 2010)

I bought some Rancourt Pinch Pennies on sale at BB last year and have to say that I love them. Easily as comfortable as my old standby boat shoes. I had purchased AE Kenwoods a few months prior and found them to be awfully uncomfortable. I'm sure that you could get the camp-moc sole put on a pair of the Rancourt beefrolls (and I'd love to see them if you do). The only downside of my pinch pennies is that the camp-moc is a bit too casual for some occasions.... but I will admit that I'm increasingly pushing this line. 

My next shoe purchase will be Rancourt pennies with a beefrolls with leather sole. I'd love compare the two options side-by-side and actually stopped in a BB today because I remember them carrying the leather sole beefrolls last year but, alas, they didn't have any.


----------



## L-feld (Dec 3, 2011)

Barnavelt said:


> On L-feld's recommend I today visited Samuel Parker here in Baltimore and I was blown away,not only by the array of high quality offerings, but by the gracious and entirely enjoyable interaction with Ken, the owner. I will sum it up thus; as a teenager Ken worked in a well known haberdasher. All these years later he bought the rights to the shirt label (of course the business itself is long gone) and he has labels identical to those of the shop made in Italy. They now grace the collars of his own line of high quality tradly OCBDs. I bought a Ralph bleeding madras long sleeve. I will be back!


Ken is a great guy, glad you enjoyed his store. My wife is friends with his son, Noah, who, for obvious reasons, was always the best dressed kid in school.

As a follow up to my loafer quest, I snagged a pair of used Rancourt beefrolls that popped up on ebay for really cheap. They blow the Aldens our of the water in terms of comfort. I don't know if it's because of the unlined leather, or the fact that they have already been broken in, or just the construction of the shoe. Either way, they feel way more supportive and are way more comfortable than the Aldens I bought.

I will keep breaking in the Aldens, but I am definitely sold on Rancourt.


----------

