# Charcoal/ Navy contrast



## dorji (Feb 18, 2010)

I have a fund raiser tomorrow, and will be neither wearing a suit (long story) nor wearing blazer/ khakis (too informal).

The question is: with a blazer/ grey pants combination, how dark is too dark?? Worth noting is the fact that there is textural differences between the worsted blazer and cavalry twill pants, but to me this just seems too close in overall color. I have tried to take a picture, but in person the pants seem a bit darker than they appear. What do you all say??

too much dark on dark??


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## Tiger (Apr 11, 2010)

It's a close call, especially if we can't see the precise colors. From what your photograph depicts, I think you'd look great. If there's actually less contrast than what appears, you risk a mismatch.

Last year, I wore a dark navy blazer with dark charcoal flannel pants, and I was unhappy throughout the day, as the dark colors did not provide the contrast I initially thought was there. Mid-grey always works better than dark charcoal...


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## statboy (Sep 1, 2010)

Agreed. That will work fine.


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## bd79cc (Dec 20, 2006)

An important part of the contrast has to do with the types of materials involved. A navy blazer made of doeskin or flannel will always have a richness and depth of color not found in a tropical-weight wool. Same with pants. The heavier softer-surfaced fabrics, like flannel and the heavier worsteds, will look darker and richer than the lighter weight woolens.

To my eye, a pair of charcoal grey flannel pants works with a navy blazer of the same material. Why? Because the navy blazer in flannel looks so deep, dark blue (almost the same as black in tone) - blue enough to be seen well against even the darkest grey. With the lighter weight woolens, that small but significant amount of contrast may go away. Then Tiger's advice obtains!


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## Saltydog (Nov 3, 2007)

It's mainly a matter of what looks good to you, I think. Personally, a navy blazer and deep charcoal slacks make an elegant combination. I love to wear a BB worsted blue blazer and a pair of charcoal gabs together. Almost a suit....but not quite. If you get much lighter with the grey slacks some will say you are coming close to the "security guard uniform" look. I don't particular agree--but anything lighter than deep cambridge or oxford grey looks a bit to common (for lack of a better word).


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## fishertw (Jan 27, 2006)

Saltydog said:


> It's mainly a matter of what looks good to you, I think. Personally, a navy blazer and deep charcoal slacks make an elegant combination. I love to wear a BB worsted blue blazer and a pair of charcoal gabs together. Almost a suit....but not quite. If you get much lighter with the grey slacks some will say you are coming close to the "security guard uniform" look. I don't particular agree--but anything lighter than deep cambridge or oxford grey looks a bit to common (for lack of a better word).


+1 Salty-- I always prefer a darker, rather than a lighter charcoal grey to wear with blazers. I agree with your "common" statement.
Tom


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## dorji (Feb 18, 2010)

Saltydog said:


> ...Almost a suit....but not quite...


This is exactly why it feels strange to me.


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## dorji (Feb 18, 2010)

Thanks to all who have replied so far... I welcome more opinions!!

Whatever the outcome, I will post a pic or two tomorrow.:icon_smile:


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

"in many places, very dark flannels are much more popular that the pale gray variant, perhaps because a good many men think dark trousers look more formal. In fact, however, the dark gray detracts from the effect of the blue blazer, so that the outfit as a whole can create a rather gloomy, unattractive impression. If you think pale gray flannels look too casual, maybe you would do better just to wear a dark suit."

Bernnard Roetzel, Gentleman 2009 Ed. (the accompanying pictures show his "pale gray" equates to a US mid grey)


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## Sartre (Mar 25, 2008)

bd79cc said:


> An important part of the contrast has to do with the types of materials involved. A navy blazer made of doeskin or flannel will always have a richness and depth of color not found in a tropical-weight wool. Same with pants. The heavier softer-surfaced fabrics, like flannel and the heavier worsteds, will look darker and richer than the lighter weight woolens.
> 
> To my eye, a pair of charcoal grey flannel pants works with a navy blazer of the same material. Why? Because the navy blazer in flannel looks so deep, dark blue (almost the same as black in tone) - blue enough to be seen well against even the darkest grey. With the lighter weight woolens, that small but significant amount of contrast may go away. Then Tiger's advice obtains!


This is very good advice, as to the nature of the particular fabric and the role it plays in how the colors play together.

Having said that, personally I think the whole "contrast" thing is for the birds. Let the females (and the Bernnard Roetzels of the world) worry about these nuances, I say. Saltydog is correct, the navy blazer/charcoal trousers combination is extremely elegant and is a time honored look.


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## Blackford Oakes (Sep 7, 2010)

Ideally, I prefer the greater contrast of the medium grey with navy blazer, but I can't say I would never wear charcoal and navy. It doesn't look bad.


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

Sartre said:


> This is very good advice, as to the nature of the particular fabric and the role it plays in how the colors play together.
> 
> Having said that, personally I think the whole "contrast" thing is for the birds. Let the females (and the Bernnard Roetzels of the world) worry about these nuances, I say. Saltydog is correct, the navy blazer/charcoal trousers combination is extremely elegant and is a time honored look.


I do not presume to speak for the other men in this thread who also advocate a contrast in tone between blazer and pants, but are you equating us with Roetzel, which would be a great compliment, or equating us with women, which might be taken differently?


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## tocqueville (Nov 15, 2009)

I thought about the whole security guard thing a lot before I made my recent blazer purchase, and I decided that what makes one look like a security guard or any of the run of the mill badly dressed Joes I see every morning who wear navy blazers because they don't know how to dress, is not the shade of the grey (or the navy) but the rest of the wardrobe: the shoes, shirt, tie, etc. Nothing screams security guard like a pair of ugly corrected grain, dull matt black shoes, for example. So go ahead with whatever grey you want, but make sure you've got good shoes--polished, etc. A sharp tie. A pocket square.


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

tocqueville said:


> I thought about the whole security guard thing a lot before I made my recent blazer purchase, and I decided that what makes one look like a security guard or any of the run of the mill badly dressed Joes I see every morning who wear navy blazers because they don't know how to dress, is not the shade of the grey (or the navy) but the rest of the wardrobe: the shoes, shirt, tie, etc. Nothing screams security guard like a pair of ugly corrected grain, dull matt black shoes, for example. So go ahead with whatever grey you want, but make sure you've got good shoes--polished, etc. A sharp tie. A pocket square.


+1

I believe you have solved the riddle.


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## WouldaShoulda (Aug 5, 2009)

If the pants are too dark it will appear like a mis-matched suit and should be avoided.


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## TheGreatTwizz (Oct 27, 2010)

dorji said:


> will be neither wearing a suit (long story)


We've got time......


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

tocqueville said:


> I thought about the whole security guard thing a lot before I made my recent blazer purchase, and I decided that what makes one look like a security guard or any of the run of the mill badly dressed Joes I see every morning who wear navy blazers because they don't know how to dress, is not the shade of the grey (or the navy) but the rest of the wardrobe: the shoes, shirt, tie, etc. Nothing screams security guard like a pair of ugly corrected grain, dull matt black shoes, for example. So go ahead with whatever grey you want, but make sure you've got good shoes--polished, etc. A sharp tie. A pocket square.


This is certainly true. Also, "security guard look" is just one of those expressions that catch on simply because they sound clever (for a while). It's my default outfit, which occupies an important place between a suit and a sporty sport coat - just what dorj is looking for. I usually prefer a lighter gray than charcoal, but see no issue at all in wearing the darker shade of trousers, I've seen it many, many times, and never think mismatched suit or security guard.


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## dorji (Feb 18, 2010)

TheGreatTwizz said:


> We've got time......


See recent "resolutions" thread! :icon_smile: The (2) suits I own fit poorly, and as opposed to tailoring them further they may just go to the thrift.

Furthermore, now that I feel OK about this charcoal/navy thing, there really are few occasions (for me) which warrant a suit.


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## dorji (Feb 18, 2010)

Sartre said:


> This is very good advice, as to the nature of the particular fabric and the role it plays in how the colors play together.


Agreed! Unfortunately the flannel blazer is at the tailor....
I have overcome my aversion to low-contrast. Thanks for the opinions guys. As promised, a (poorly shot) picture as I left for the event, which was a success...


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## tocqueville (Nov 15, 2009)

Looks great!


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## Tiger (Apr 11, 2010)

Very sophisticated; the contrast works exceptionally well!


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## Sartre (Mar 25, 2008)

arkirshner said:


> I do not presume to speak for the other men in this thread who also advocate a contrast in tone between blazer and pants, but are you equating us with Roetzel, which would be a great compliment, or equating us with women, which might be taken differently?


Nice try; not biting.


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## Saltydog (Nov 3, 2007)

tocqueville said:


> I thought about the whole security guard thing a lot before I made my recent blazer purchase, and I decided that what makes one look like a security guard or any of the run of the mill badly dressed Joes I see every morning who wear navy blazers because they don't know how to dress, is not the shade of the grey (or the navy) but the rest of the wardrobe: the shoes, shirt, tie, etc. Nothing screams security guard like a pair of ugly corrected grain, dull matt black shoes, for example. So go ahead with whatever grey you want, but make sure you've got good shoes--polished, etc. A sharp tie. A pocket square.


Even though I alluded to the "security guard" look in my earlier post--I have never really liked that term. You are absolutely right...it is the accessories, and I would say, the quality and fit of the blazer and slacks that make the difference. Thanks for making that distinction. I still think the lighter grey trousers present a less sophisticated or elegant look. I said earlier that the lighter grey trousers present a more common look and I don't mean that in a hoity-toity way. I detest pretense. But it does--to my eye--look more ordinary I guess. A navy jacket and charcoal trousers in a good fabric and fit IMO is anything but dull or drab. One can dress it up or down with the accessories to an extent...but it is hard to look bad in that combo. For a dressier than khaki contrast, I like British Tan slacks with a navy blazer.


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## Bjorn (May 2, 2010)

arkirshner said:


> "in many places, very dark flannels are much more popular that the pale gray variant, perhaps because a good many men think dark trousers look more formal. In fact, however, the dark gray detracts from the effect of the blue blazer, so that the outfit as a whole can create a rather gloomy, unattractive impression. If you think pale gray flannels look too casual, maybe you would do better just to wear a dark suit."
> 
> Bernnard Roetzel, Gentleman 2009 Ed. (the accompanying pictures show his "pale gray" equates to a US mid grey)


I'd agree with Bernhard. A pair of grey trousers worn with a navy blazer should contrast sufficiently so that it's clear it is definitely not a suit.

In fact, all odd jackets should contrast with the trousers. The almost-suit look is anathema to style in my book.


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## AldenPyle (Oct 8, 2006)

Looks good. Might rethink the tie.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

I used to think charcoal was the way to go, but I prefer medium grey with a blazer now.


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## Saltydog (Nov 3, 2007)

You say either, I say ..._(I)ither..._
You say po-tay-to, I say po-tah-to...
you say to-may-to, I say _to-mah-to_...
Let's call the whole thing off. 

(With apologies to phoneticists--or however it may be spelled--and music lovers everywhere.)


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## dorji (Feb 18, 2010)

Saltydog said:


> ...Let's call the whole thing off.


OK done :icon_smile: This look works for me...


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