# It's TWEED Season!



## Flanderian

With the temperature in the shade at 93F, and a dew point of 70F, naturally, thoughts turn to tweed! Not to wear of course, but rather to aid in envisioning a sublime season of crisp breezes, cool dark shade and gentle late afternoon light.

Not necessarily Flanderian recommended, but rather some provocative and thought provoking ensembles featuring lovely tweeds.

https://tweedlandthegentlemansclub.blogspot.com/2016/05/tweed-more-tweed-2.html


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## Oldsarge

Beautiful collection of colors, textures and patterns but an unbuttoned OCBD? Really?


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## SG_67

The last / I really like. For the second to last, I think I'd opt for a light blue shirt just for some contrast.


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## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Beautiful collection of colors, textures and patterns but an unbuttoned OCBD? Really?


Yes, well, what can I say? :redface:

Unbuttoned BD's?


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## g3org3y

Nice, thanks for sharing the link.

I recently bought another Harris Tweed blazer to add to the collection. Brown herringbone, slim fit. Quickly becoming a wardrobe essential. One can never have too much tweed. :biggrin:


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## Flanderian

SG_67 said:


> The last / I really like. For the second to last, I think I'd opt for a light blue shirt just for some contrast.


That would be nice, but overdone a bit as the tweed theme is here, I must confess to an affinity for these colors and textures, including the dark olive shirt. I like darker shirts as an *ultra casual rustic* option with tweeds and cords. It suits my gloomy nature and allows me to fade into the corner of a dark, wood paneled tap room.


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## Flanderian

g3org3y said:


> One can never have too much tweed. :biggrin:


:thumbs-up: :thumbs-up: :thumbs-up:


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## Oldsarge

Dark corners of paneled tap rooms are some of my favorite locations in all the world. Oddly, up here in the gloomy PNW the tap rooms seem mostly to be paneled in light wood. Oh well, so long as the beer engines are working I can tolerate a lack of brooding dark.:beer: At least now I can. A year and a half ago brooding gloom was what i sought out.


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## Oldsarge

g3org3y said:


> One can never have too much tweed. :biggrin:


Or too many shotguns.


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## Balfour

First picture would work well - in a Sir Watkyn Basset-y way - if you ditched the ps and buttoned the button-down.


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## Balfour

Third picture is an obscenity.


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## phyrpowr

Oh, yes, _Tweedland's_ "all tweed" posts are proof that the world can be a finer, truer and more beautiful place


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## Shaver

Balfour said:


> Third picture is an obscenity.


Worse than the blue bengal stripe shirt with tweed dissonance?


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## Balfour

Shaver said:


> Worse than the blue bengal stripe shirt with tweed dissonance?


High target environment for snark, but yes. Both second and fourth are awful as well but read basically pale blue so less awful than third. But fourth shirt belongs only with suits and second shirt is best for suits and has a fcuked up collar.


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## Shaver

^ Were someone to put a gun to my head (not beyond the bounds of possibility) and force me to choose I would, albeit reluctantly, choose the third option. Pale blue bengal shirts suggest a cool crispness wholly at odds with warm fuzzy tweed. However, my agreement with you that it is a devil and the deep blue sea scenario.


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## Flanderian

Balfour said:


> Third picture is an obscenity.


I am not disappointed! :happy:



Shaver said:


> Worse than the blue bengal stripe shirt with tweed dissonance?


Oh, come now! Collar aside, it's a classic pairing on this side of the pond. (Depending on who you ask.) You are free to hate it, but it's hardly unusual. I see enough contrast among pattern and color of all three elements to have it work for me.

But I'm not happy with this collar in it's pinned state. I like pinned collars, but the geometry is off on that one.


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## johwal

Always appreciate your displays of tweed. Thanks!


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## Flanderian

johwal said:


> Always appreciate your displays of tweed. Thanks!


You are welcome! It is a joy.


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## Shaver

Flanderian said:


> Oh, come now! Collar aside, it's a classic pairing on this side of the pond. (Depending on who you ask)
> You are free to hate it, but it's hardly unusual. I see enough contrast among pattern and color of all three elements to have it work for me.
> 
> But I'm not happy with this collar in it's pinned state. I like pinned collars, but the geometry is off on that one.


That it is hardly unusual is somewhat rather beside the point for it remains dissonant. I stand quite firmly behind my assertion that the cool crispness suggested by a light blue bengal is wholly at odds with warm fuzzy tweed. Similarly I would counsel against a woolen tattersal shirt with a navy blazer- in the unlikely event of anyone suggesting such a fiendish combination.


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## Oldsarge

*_ shudder!_*


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## orange fury

Questionable ensembles, but beautiful tweed (and fair isle sweater, for that matter).

im enjoying my summer clothes (linen/seersucker/etc), but since we didn't have cool weather fall/winter 2015 (and I couldn't wear tweed), I'm looking forward to this upcoming fall. This is my winter clothing acquisition period though, so I'm itching to try out some of the new tweeds I recently purchased.


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## Flanderian

Shaver said:


> That it is hardly unusual is somewhat rather beside the point for it remains dissonant. I stand quite firmly behind my assertion that the cool crispness suggested by a light blue bengal is wholly at odds with warm fuzzy tweed. Similarly I would counsel against a woolen tattersal shirt with a navy blazer- in the unlikely event of anyone suggesting such a fiendish combination.


I think think the dissonance is in the eye of the beholder. I like Bengal stripe shirts and tweeds, but that doesn't mean I like *any* Bengal stripe shirt with tweed. The shirt and jacket at issue is in-bounds, if not ideal. There are some things I'd like to change, such as having larger stripe, and I'd prefer oxford cloth.

This one is, to me, is out-of-bounds for many reasons.










I don't personally wear wool shirts under jackets, but would find that perfectly in keeping with a tweed, for any who wished to wear it. A bit too rustic under a blazer. Under a navy homespun tweed such as the one the OP, it would look fine.

I think the underlying issue is different aesthetics. From my experience, many Brits like their crispness extra crispy. Americans tend to like to fuzz it up a bit. Is one right and one wrong? In this instance, I think not.

Edit: I misremembered the thread in which I posted the homespun navy tweed. (We'll plead a Senior Moment.:redface

This is said jacket -


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## johwal

"I think think the dissonance is in the eye of the beholder. I like Bengal stripe shirts and tweeds, but that doesn't mean I like *any* Bengal stripe shirt with tweed. The shirt and jacket at issue is in-bounds, if not ideal. There are some things I'd like to change, such as having larger stripe, and I'd prefer oxford cloth."

To my eye, the tie and sweater could not be improved upon. And I have no problem with the shirt.


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## Shaver

Perhaps I am tended towards an overly rigid perspective, although perhaps not? A further example of a shirt pairing, seen often worn, but which I disdain being bold gingham with a sober suit. Whether or not the dissonance is in the eye of the beholder speaks to a subjectivity which may ultimately eliminate any possibilty of objectivity. Do we not then deny our ability to dissuade such chaps as the Hoboken white dinner jacket and jeans proponent?


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## Shaver

As an amusing aside, whilst googling to establish the prevalence of this bengal/tweed look I happened upon a phenomenon hitherto unknown to me: pinterest. I had not imagined that a more vacuous manner in which to waste one's time than Facebook could be conceived of. I was sadly mistaken.


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## Balfour

Shaver said:


> As an amusing aside, whilst googling to establish the prevalence of this bengal/tweed look I happened upon a phenomenon hitherto unknown to me: pinterest. I had not imagined that a more vacuous manner in which to waste one's time than Facebook could be conceived of. I was sadly mistaken.


:laughing:


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## Flanderian

Shaver said:


> Perhaps I am tended towards an overly rigid perspective, although perhaps not? A further example of a shirt pairing, seen often worn, but which I disdain being bold gingham with a sober suit. Whether or not the dissonance is in the eye of the beholder speaks to a subjectivity which may ultimately eliminate any possibilty of objectivity. *Do we not then deny our ability to dissuade such chaps as the Hoboken white dinner jacket and jeans proponent?*


We need not. Though, ultimately, each of our opinions is at its roots subjective. And perhaps it is necessary to examine and compare the difference in the origins of each. 



Shaver said:


> As an amusing aside, whilst googling to establish the prevalence of this bengal/tweed look I happened upon a phenomenon hitherto unknown to me: pinterest. I had not imagined that a more vacuous manner in which to waste one's time than Facebook could be conceived of. I was sadly mistaken.


Forgive my misogyny, but in this we are in complete agreement. The origins of Facebook, as I understand them, was to allow adolescent girls to trade photographs. I am not an adolescent girl.


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## Shaver

Flanderian said:


> We need not. Though, ultimately, each of our opinions is at its roots subjective. And perhaps it is necessary to examine and compare the difference in the origins of each.
> 
> Forgive my misogyny, but in this we are in complete agreement. The origins of Facebook, as I understand them, was to allow adolescent girls to trade photographs. I am not an adolescent girl.


Hmmph! Whilst we were PMing you assured me that you were an adolescent girl. :icon_pale:

More seriously, it is increasingly refreshing to disagree on this forum whilst maintaining a modicum of geniality, which does you no small credit my friend.


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## Gurdon

Oldsarge said:


> Or too many shotguns.


Or too many -- pairs of shoes or boots, brass locomotive models, or handguns with adjustable sights. Two or three fly rods, four at most, can suffice.
Gurdon


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## Flanderian

Shaver said:


> Hmmph! Whilst we were PMing you assured me that you were an adolescent girl. :icon_pale:


My name Peggy.












Shaver said:


> More seriously, it is increasingly refreshing to disagree on this forum whilst maintaining a modicum of geniality, which does you no small credit my friend.


It would be a dull world where everyone agreed with everyone else. :beer:


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## g3org3y

g3org3y said:


> Nice, thanks for sharing the link.
> 
> I recently bought another Harris Tweed blazer to add to the collection. Brown herringbone, slim fit. Quickly becoming a wardrobe essential. One can never have too much tweed. :biggrin:


Thought it'd be nice to share a pic of the collection. Do love a bit of tweed.


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## Fading Fast

⇧ Beautiful collection sir. And while it just might be a camera angle thing, it does look like the weight of all your tweed is bowing your closet bar - nothing like the wonderful heft of tightly woven wool.


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## StephenRG

g3org3y said:


> Thought it'd be nice to share a pic of the collection. Do love a bit of tweed.


I dare say a much finer collection than one would find at most menswear stores/departments. Very nice!


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## Flanderian

g3org3y said:


> Thought it'd be nice to share a pic of the collection. Do love a bit of tweed.


Outstanding! :beer:


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## Oldsarge

I see I have some catching up to do!


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## g3org3y

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Beautiful collection sir. And while it just might be a camera angle thing, it does look like the weight of all your tweed is bowing your closet bar - nothing like the wonderful heft of tightly woven wool.


Thanks FF. Probably the camera angle but as you mention, a decent tweed has some weight to it.



StephenRG said:


> I dare say a much finer collection than one would find at most menswear stores/departments. Very nice!


Thanks Stephen. It has been accrued over the last three years or so. If I see a bargain, I try to snap it up. My wife tells me I have too many. I tell her she's wrong. 


Flanderian said:


> Outstanding! :beer:


:beer:



Oldsarge said:


> I see I have some catching up to do!


No pressure. :great:


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## g3org3y

Latest addition. :biggrin:


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## ran23

Switching to a Brown gun check instead of my tropical light blue blazer today. 54 this morning.


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## Oldsarge

Wore a gunning jacket over tattersall, pheasant emblematic tie and green moleskins last night. Company is coming tonight, I think, so it will be time to break out the chunky shawl collar cardigan. Ah . . . autumn!


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## jpgr

Please pardon my ignorance. But in the 3rd and 4th pictures (maybe the 2nd), are those wool ties? 

I'm pretty new here. I've seen wool ties, and I think they look great. I just keep wondering when and with what they could be worn. Now I see.


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## ran23

In the low 50's outside, I found a Ralph Loren Chaps Brown Glen Plaid SC that fit great. I was wearing British Tan Khakis and Navy Tie at the time, nice look.


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## Flanderian

g3org3y said:


> Latest addition. :biggrin:


Magnificent tweeds! :thumbs-up:



jpgr said:


> Please pardon my ignorance. But in the 3rd and 4th pictures (maybe the 2nd), are those wool ties?
> 
> I'm pretty new here. I've seen wool ties, and I think they look great. I just keep wondering when and with what they could be worn. Now I see.


"And the blind shall see, and the lame walk!" 

If you're referring to the four ties in my OP, they're *all* wool! Wool ties can be of many varieties, tweed, flannel, knit and challis are four traditional and handsome varieties. And they offer a rough gradation of formality running from tweed, knit and flannel about the same, then challis, ranged from most rustic to least. Tweed looks best with country cloth, knit and flannel do well there also, but can be used to dress down worsted if they're not too rustic, and challis goes well with country cloth too, but does just as well with twills and unfinished worsted.


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## jpgr

Flanderian said:


> "And the blind shall see, and the lame walk!"
> 
> If you're referring to the four ties in my OP, they're *all* wool!


I WAS referring to the OP. Those are fantastic! I go to bed tonight knowing more than I knew this morning. It's a good day!


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## Flanderian

Rare lattice pattern tweed made up by B&Tailor. Don't know if it's made from vintage or contemporary cloth. The only clothier I've seen do rare traditional tweed patterns such as lattice and diamond in contemporary cloth is Paul Stuart. So mills evidently are willing and able to duplicate these historic tweeds if there is sufficient demand. Though London Lounge may have commissioned some as well, come to think of it.


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## Tempest

Flanderian said:


> ...rare traditional tweed patterns such as lattice and diamond...


I have never seen this basketweave-looking lattice. I did see a diamond tweed coat at a Goodwill once and was heartbroken when it was too small for me. Given my diminutive size, this was further evidence that it was likely half a century old or more.
In finding the above link (btw - diamond tweed cloth is available new! tempting), I see that another rare tweed pattern is keystone, which seems to be a slight variation on houndstooth.


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## immanuelrx

Saw this and thought of you Flanderian! 









Not a typical color, but beautiful none the less!


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## Fading Fast

That is one handsome looking suit. Cut, color, texture, pattern, drape - Stacey's mom has got it going on. 

Love the shoulders too.


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## Oldsarge

Indeed, a lovely suit. It's cut a bit slim for my taste (and physique!) but the material and styling are most satisfactory.


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## Oldsarge

Here's a reprint from Thursday. I could live in tweed if the weather were right.


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## immanuelrx

Oldsarge said:


> Here's a reprint from Thursday. I could live in tweed if the weather were right.


I meant to comment on your photo the first time I saw it. I love your outfit good Sir. I hope you do post pictures more often.


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## Flanderian

immanuelrx said:


> Saw this and thought of you Flanderian!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a typical color, but beautiful none the less!


Thank you! That's a beautiful tweed. :thumbs-up:

I love the color, and know from experience that teals tend to flatter me. But I don't know if I could wear a whole suit of it. Though I'd love the jacket as an odd jacket.

And I should add, I love the cut here! Among the nicest I've seen.


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## Flanderian

Grist for the mill - :chinese:


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## Flanderian

Noch Ein! 
Mighty Tweed! irate:

(Website describes it as flannel. I don't think so! Looks more like around a 16oz tweed. And, yes, I too would ball-up the tie and throw it away! Don't know if I could wear this, but formidable none-the-less.)


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## Oldsarge

An extraordinary coat. I've seen that cloth before, at Mears I believe. So many tweeds, so much less money . . .


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## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> An extraordinary coat. I've seen that cloth before, at Mears I believe. So many tweeds, so much less money . . .


And you get pants to go with it!


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## orange fury

immanuelrx said:


> I meant to comment on your photo the first time I saw it. I love your outfit good Sir. I hope you do post pictures more often.


^this


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## barca10

immanuelrx said:


> I meant to comment on your photo the first time I saw it. I love your outfit good Sir. I hope you do post pictures more often.


I agree - great looking outfit.


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## Matt S

Flanderian said:


> And you get pants to go with it!


I'd imagine tweed pants would be very itchy, but the tweed trousers look nice.


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## Flanderian

Matt S said:


> I'd imagine tweed pants would be very itchy, but the tweed trousers look nice.


I have two pair of tweed trousers, a Donegal and a herringbone. Both are 1/2 lined to the knee, and though I'm sensitive to itchy cloth, I experience no problems wearing them.


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## fiftyforfifty

immanuelrx said:


> Saw this and thought of you Flanderian!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a typical color, but beautiful none the less!


I agree its beautiful giving great look


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## Matt S

Flanderian said:


> I have two pair of tweed trousers, a Donegal and a herringbone. Both are 1/2 lined to the knee, and though I'm sensitive to itchy cloth, I experience no problems wearing them.


I think you missed my joke.


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## momsdoc

Matt S said:


> I think you missed my joke.


He's not a Brit. He's from Joisey.:eek2:


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## Flanderian

Matt S said:


> I think you missed my joke.


I miss too much! 

()


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## Flanderian

Love is where you find it!


Yes, I know, shirt and tie are problematic, but *nice suit!* (Complete with requisite detestable pocket.)


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## Oldsarge

Yeah, that ticket pocket thing reduces the charm of a lovely cut and cloth. But if it came up on sale I'd grit my teeth and wear it anyway.:biggrin:


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## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Yeah, that ticket pocket thing reduces the charm of a lovely cut and cloth. But if it came up on sale I'd grit my teeth and wear it anyway.:biggrin:


I miss friend Balfour, and shall always ever after only refer to that device as a "detestable" pocket in his honor.

Lovely tweed, what!? :thumbs-up:


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## Oldsarge

Quite.


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## Oldsarge

Be still, oh my heart!



I really like the socks/PS coordination. Witty, what?


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## Oldsarge

Coordinated gloves and buttons? My word!


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## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 24417
> 
> 
> Coordinated gloves and buttons? My word!


Happenstance. But why not? Looks good!


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## Oldsarge




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## orange fury

I would make a comment about this being a necro-thread, but honestly, the pics in here are gold. Hope more people post tweed pics, the season approacheth!

I mean, it’s 90 here right now, but those two weeks we get in December will be glorious.


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## caktaylor

orange fury said:


> I would make a comment about this being a necro-thread, but honestly, the pics in here are gold. Hope more people post tweed pics, the season approacheth!
> 
> I mean, it's 90 here right now, but those two weeks we get in December will be glorious.


Fellow Houstonian. Fortunately, our office building is kept cold enough that I get to wear tweed year round.


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## 16412

Artificial weather.


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## Flanderian

orange fury said:


> Hope more people post tweed pics, the season approacheth!


Say, what!?!? irate:


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## ran23

44 this morning, next personal errand will be in tweed.


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## orange fury

Flanderian said:


> Say, what!?!? irate:


I don't even have an opinion as to which one I like more lol


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## Dcr5468

ran23 said:


> 44 this morning, next personal errand will be in tweed.


I don't think it's 44 in my garage refrigerator...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## momsdoc

I hate this time of year. All the anticipation of tweed makes me want to go and buy some more. About to tip over the fence on this HT from PC.


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## Adriel Rowley

Flanderian said:


>


Wow! :amazing:That is a great looking tweed, love the blue and the check. Looks even better as a suit. Too bad seems a one off, going to the store leads to a dead page.



g3org3y said:


>


What is this piece of fabric held with two buttons for?


Flanderian said:


> Say, what!?!? irate:


Oh my! This is amazing, great colors and interesting pattern. Think this be a tad too bold to wear as a suit. 



Flanderian said:


>


Another great color combination. Bet look great on me with my red hair, blue eyes, and cream skin tone (I'm not milk white). Where you find? Thanks.


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## Adriel Rowley

Here is my contribution to the thread.

Is there a name for the dark grey and white weave tweed?

I just happened on this thread and my first Harris Tweed came this Sunday 16 August. Long story short, paid $5 with shipping as has a couple moth holes to be repaired (already posted in another thread the details).

Thought it was a blue based on the pictures, glad it wasn't as would have never bought heather purple thinking wouldn't look good, but think it looks smashing. Thus why willing to get it repaired as a lot of the vintage Harris Tweeds are NLA.

Now feeling and seeing Harris Tweed in person, I am addicted!


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## Repington

The piece of fabric referred to above is, I believe, a gorget to be worn in inclement weather with the jacket’s collar turned up.


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## orange fury

Adriel Rowley said:


> What is this piece of fabric held with two buttons for?


Throat latch- there will be a button on the underside of the lapel so you can flip the collar up and fasten it at the throat in rainy or cold weather. I have one jacket with it, but have never actually used it.

Regarding tweed, it's a whole different world once you start getting into different fabric mills and styles. Harris, Moon, Shetland, donegal (with the donegal mist/donegal dew variations), etc. I have quite a few HT jackets, but one of my favorite tweeds has become an unlined J Crew 3/2 made with Moon fabric


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## Fading Fast

orange fury said:


> ...I have quite a few HT jackets, but one of my favorite tweeds has become an unlined J Crew 3/2 made with Moon fabric


Agree completely. I own three and just bought my fourth (it came yesterday). For the money, they are outstanding value and great knock-around sport coats. I say that, but my oldest one is approaching ten years, still looks great and has taken a beating.

These are not of the quality of the higher-end ones in this thread, but for the money (I bought this recent one on one of the regularly occurring J.Crew sale, so I paid $203 all in) they are incredible value.

Since, I live in the city and am not trekking in the Highlands of Scotland, I am usually just doing normal city things which means I'm indoors more than outdoors. Hence, having an unlined tweed is great - it's a wonderful compromise that lets me wear tweed without boiling inside.


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## Adriel Rowley

Repington said:


> The piece of fabric referred to above is, I believe, a gorget to be worn in inclement weather with the jacket's collar turned up.


Thank you for the information. Thought it was to hold the lapel closed, but never one for making assumptions. Tried searching for the word, but came up with a piece of armor.


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## Adriel Rowley

orange fury said:


> Throat latch- there will be a button on the underside of the lapel so you can flip the collar up and fasten it at the throat in rainy or cold weather. I have one jacket with it, but have never actually used it.


I would, but I run cold.



orange fury said:


> Regarding tweed, it's a whole diffeeent world once you start getting into different fabric mills and styles. Harris, Moon, Shetland, donegal (with the donegal mist/donegal dew variations), etc. I have quite a few HT jackets, but one of my favorite tweeds has become an unlined J Crew 3/2 made with Moon fabric


Oh yes, Opa has a tweed sport coat I left because didn't know about reweaving and loved the look years ago. Then Rafael of the Gentlemen's Gazette put out a presentation on tweed and got even stronger. Been looking since for the right price on vintage in a unique color.

Is there a thread covering these additional tweeds? I know of just Donegal without the variations and you mean Abraham Moon? If so, amazing color, though not seeing any other differences.

I been on the lookout for Shetland and Barleycorn, hard to find. Donegal seems to be the most expensive for some reason.

Do have my eye on some wonderful barleycorn fabric, just wanted to think it over before went for it.


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## John inSC

While not all tweed offerings - just a heads up. :beer:


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## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> Agree completely. I own three and just bought my fourth (it came yesterday). For the money, they are outstanding value and great knock-around sport coats. I say that, but my oldest one is approaching ten years, still looks great and has taken a beating.
> 
> These are not of the quality of the higher-end ones in this thread, but for the money (I bought this recent one on one of the regularly occurring J.Crew sale, so I paid $203 all in) they are incredible value.
> 
> Since, I live in the city and am not trekking in the Highlands of Scotland, I am usually just doing normal city things which means I'm indoors more than outdoors. Hence, having an unlined tweed is great - it's a wonderful compromise that lets me wear tweed without boiling inside.


My knock about for over ten years has been a corduroy unstructured sport coat until got monotonous wearing it every week (no signs of wear), which led to me looking for other options. Good point on tweed being a good alternative, now you just made it worse giving another excuse to be on the lookout for tweed.


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## Fading Fast

Adriel Rowley said:


> My knock about for over ten years has been a corduroy unstructured sport coat until got monotonous wearing it every week (no signs of wear), which led to me looking for other options. Good point on tweed being a good alternative, now you just made it worse giving another excuse to be on the lookout for tweed.


Think of this as a gateway tweed, for ~$200 you can try your first one - a decent, unlined Tweed from a respected mill:

https://www.jcrew.com/p/mens_catego...eed/C8778?color_name=classic-grey-herringbone


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## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> Think of this as a gateway tweed, for ~$200 you can try your first one - a decent, unlined Tweed from a respected mill:
> 
> https://www.jcrew.com/p/mens_catego...eed/C8778?color_name=classic-grey-herringbone


Thank you for the information, appreciated. :beer: Plus, know now what is meant by Moon Tweed.

Your sure my Harris Tweed wasn't the gateway? 

Hard to tell what color the rust is, should be brighter than what the picture shows.


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## Fading Fast

Adriel Rowley said:


> Thank you for the information, appreciated. :beer: Plus, know now what is meant by Moon Tweed...


Moon is the name of a mill (so its like Harris in that it describes the manufacturer, but it's one company not a region/coop/gov't defined process like Harris is): https://www.moons.co.uk



Adriel Rowley said:


> ...Your sure my Harris Tweed wasn't the gateway? ...


Sorry, thought you didn't own any tweed - my bad.



Adriel Rowley said:


> ...Hard to tell what color the rust is, should be brighter than what the picture shows.


I'd call and talk to J.Crew about the color as on-line color can be quite off even through no fault of the company. The black-and-white one I bought is a bit darker than it appeared on my screen (close, but if you are looking for a very specific tone and shade, I'd call first - they are very helpful).


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## Orsini

I think I would have switched them for black that day.


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## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> Moon is the name of a mill (so its like Harris in that it describes the manufacturer, but it's one company not a region/coop/gov't defined process like Harris is): https://www.moons.co.uk


https://www.moons.co.uk

Thank you for the clarification. My goodness there is a lot of fabrics! :O

The peppermint is almost a dead ringer for the 1930 herringbone long coat that I am now custodian of, though online color is different than a swatch.



Fading Fast said:


> Sorry, thought you didn't own any tweed - my bad.


Please don't. I was being playful, didn't cross my mind the post get lost. I was thinking along the drug theme that seemed to be happening, you know Harris might not get you hooked, but Moon will. Maybe the issue is I grew up on British humor...  (Being silly face.)



Fading Fast said:


> I'd call and talk to J.Crew about the color as on-line color can be quite off even through no fault of the company. The black-and-white one I bought is a bit darker than it appeared on my screen (close, but if you are looking for a very specific tone and shade, I'd call first - they are very helpful).


Yep, know about RGB registration, especially on the PC I am using a tele (monitor quit and the tele was free) I can see a difference from the Macintosh laptop (my preferred machine and longest lived laptop at about five and a half). Good to know there are still companies out there with great customer service, almost every first purchase I contact the company to be sure of the details, more efficient (and if poor customer service I don't proceed).

Cheers! :beer:


----------



## Fading Fast

Adriel Rowley said:


> ...Please don't. I was being playful, didn't cross my mind the post get lost. I was thinking along the drug theme that seemed to be happening, you know Harris might not get you hooked, but Moon will. Maybe the issue is I grew up on British humor...  (Being silly face.)
> ...


I was using it as a metaphor, but in truth, I don't really know anything about the drug culture (not judging, just not my thing), but whatever the ultima thule of drugs is, Harris would be the Tweed equivalent.



Adriel Rowley said:


> ...Yep, know about RGB registration, especially on the PC I am using a tele (monitor quit and the tele was free) I can see a difference from the Macintosh laptop (my preferred machine and longest lived laptop at about five and a half). Good to know there are still companies out there with great customer service, almost every first purchase I contact the company to be sure of the details, more efficient (and if poor customer service I don't proceed)....


J.Crew - if its sizing and style works for you - is a surprising gem of a company. I've called and they've "pulled" the item for me and walked over to the window to describe the color/tone/etc. That said, they don't always have access to all the clothes, but in those cases, they'll call someone who does and try to give you as much color (tee-hee) as they can.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Man this is fun chatting with someone on this rainy and gloomy day here in the desert.



Fading Fast said:


> I was using it as a metaphor, but in truth, I don't really know anything about the drug culture (not judging, just not my thing), but whatever the ultima thule of drugs is, Harris would be the Tweed equivalent.


Laugh my arse off! Just went from bad to worse. I give up, the joke just isn't going. Different strokes for different folks.

But, to be clear, all I know is from when in the fifth grade, we had to take this anti-drug course, thus why I know gateway. Also, they claimed Mary Jane was the gateway drug, though for some it's the hard stuff. I wouldn't know, never used.

Harris was in Harris Tweed. Moon, as in Moon fabrics, BTW.



Fading Fast said:


> J.Crew - if its sizing and style works for you - is a surprising gem of a company. I've called and they've "pulled" the item for me and walked over to the window to describe the color/tone/etc. That said, they don't always have access to all the clothes, but in those cases, they'll call someone who does and try to give you as much color (tee-hee) as they can.


Thank you for all this education, much appreciated. Sure helps to know to ask for a pull if can't describe.

What you mean style? Mine say is classic, in that I wear a buttoned shirt, pants without rips/holes, and dress shoes or boots (prefer my chelsea boots). I prefer a trim European fit over the American bag. 6'-2", 165 pounds on a bad day, triangular body shape (17.5" shoulder, 33" waist, 36" hips), with long legs (about 33" inseam depending on rise and break).

What does "tee-hee" mean?


----------



## Oldsarge

It's an attempt to put a giggle into print.


----------



## Flanderian

And an attaboy for Bookster! For the sake of candor, past sins notwithstanding, they look very nice!

https://tweedlandthegentlemansclub.blogspot.com/2018/09/thanks-bookster.html


----------



## Oldsarge

That they do!


----------



## Flanderian

Universally reviled, 10 years ago I could have worn this! 










Would look good here -


----------



## Oldsarge

Much as I love the countryside look, that's a bit Over The Top for me. I love the coat and trousers and the neckerchief. The vest and shirt? Not so much.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Much as I love the countryside look, that's a bit Over The Top for me. I love the coat and trousers and the neckerchief. The vest and shirt? Not so much.


Different men need to wear different things. Prior to being as long in the tooth, this would have been possible. Love the play of pattern, color and texture. And just the d***ed rumpledness of it all!


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Flanderian said:


> Universally reviled, 10 years ago I could have worn this!
> 
> View attachment 24465
> 
> 
> Would look good here -


Why 10 years ago and not now?

Not sure about the ascot in gold weather, you loose a lot of heat out of the open collar.

Like the vest, except the low opening. Be better on someone needing help with a gut.


----------



## 16412

Flanderian said:


> Universally reviled, 10 years ago I could have worn this!
> 
> View attachment 24465
> 
> 
> Would look good here -


Coat, vest and trousers is a good combination. With the autumn leafs the shirt works. The golden yellow would need autumn cotton wood leafs or aspen. But, I think I would skip the yellow or use a different shirt.


----------



## orange fury

Adriel Rowley said:


> I would, but I run cold.
> 
> Oh yes, Opa has a tweed sport coat I left because didn't know about reweaving and loved the look years ago. Then Rafael of the Gentlemen's Gazette put out a presentation on tweed and got even stronger. Been looking since for the right price on vintage in a unique color.
> 
> Is there a thread covering these additional tweeds? I know of just Donegal without the variations and you mean Abraham Moon? If so, amazing color, though not seeing any other differences.
> 
> I been on the lookout for Shetland and Barleycorn, hard to find. Donegal seems to be the most expensive for some reason.
> 
> Do have my eye on some wonderful barleycorn fabric, just wanted to think it over before went for it.


On Moon fabrics:
I'm personally just a big fan of the feel and quality of fabrics that come out of Moon. It's a thick tweed (so my unlined jacket is still heavy and warm), but it's softer than Harris Tweed. My J Crew jacket:




































On barleycorn:
Barleycorn is a wonderful pattern that seems to be pretty underutilized- I guess manufacturers think herringbone is easier to sell. This is a NOS (with tags!) Corbin jacket I picked up several years ago with a combination pattern that includes barleycorn. One of my best fitting jackets, and one of my favorites:













































I actually kept the tags after cutting them off, because it's not every day you find an older jacket like this with the tags still on.

And if anyone wants to go down the "not Trad! Darts/2 buttons/lack of patch pockets is of the sartorial devil!" road- couldn't give less of a damn.


----------



## orange fury

Fading Fast said:


> I was using it as a metaphor, but in truth, I don't really know anything about the drug culture (not judging, just not my thing), but whatever the ultima thule of drugs is, Harris would be the Tweed equivalent.


Harris tweed was what got me into tweed. For Adrian's benefit- several years ago, Nick Wooster was made the creative director for JC Penney, and suddenly (for a short time) they had all of these trad and preppy staples available under their Stanford line, including Harris tweed jackets. The patterns were actually pretty unique and looked great- plus, they went on deep discount within a couple months of being released. I still have 2 of the jackets (sold my b/w herringbone)- this kicked it all off for me.


----------



## derum

I need this:


----------



## Fading Fast

orange fury said:


> On Moon fabrics:
> I'm personally just a big fan of the feel and quality of fabrics that come out of Moon. It's a thick tweed (so my unlined jacket is still heavy and warm), but it's softer than Harris Tweed. My J Crew jacket:
> View attachment 24478
> 
> 
> View attachment 24480
> 
> 
> View attachment 24477
> 
> 
> View attachment 24480
> 
> 
> On barleycorn:
> Barleycorn is a wonderful pattern that seems to be pretty underutilized- I guess manufacturers think herringbone is easier to sell. This is a NOS (with tags!) Corbin jacket I picked up several years ago with a combination pattern that includes barleycorn. One of my best fitting jackets, and one of my favorites:
> View attachment 24482
> 
> 
> View attachment 24476
> 
> 
> View attachment 24481
> 
> 
> View attachment 24479
> 
> 
> View attachment 24483
> 
> 
> I actually kept the tags after cutting them off, because it's not every day you find an older jacket like this with the tags still on.
> 
> And if anyone wants to go down the "not Trad! Darts/2 buttons/lack of patch pockets is of the sartorial devil!" road- couldn't give less of a damn.


I just bought my fourth J.Crew-Moon sport coat as, like you, I love them - well made and at a great price. Literally, just spent a half hour at the tailor this morning getting my most recent purchase altered.

That Corbin sport coat is awesome. I agree with your comments on barleycorn - a great pattern that - like so many great patterns - seems to have all but disappeared. I had a dark-olive-barleycorn tweed a few decades ago that was my regular use one for years.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

orange fury said:


> On Moon fabrics:
> I'm personally just a big fan of the feel and quality of fabrics that come out of Moon. It's a thick tweed (so my unlined jacket is still heavy and warm), but it's softer than Harris Tweed. My J Crew jacket:


Thank you for the information, appreciated. Looks quality, looks like the lapel buttonhole is nicely done.



orange fury said:


> On barleycorn:
> Barleycorn is a wonderful pattern that seems to be pretty underutilized- I guess manufacturers think herringbone is easier to sell. This is a NOS (with tags!) Corbin jacket I picked up several years ago with a combination pattern that includes barleycorn. One of my best fitting jackets, and one of my favorites:
> 
> I actually kept the tags after cutting them off, because it's not every day you find an older jacket like this with the tags still on.
> 
> And if anyone wants to go down the "not Trad! Darts/2 buttons/lack of patch pockets is of the sartorial devil!" road- couldn't give less of a damn.


I am one who likes to be unique, though now as I mature, learn needs to be subtle. Because Barleycorn is a nice, pleasing pattern which is unique, there lies my interest. Here is the one mentioned earlier.









That jacket is sure interesting using two weaves. Nice score on NOS! I too would save the tags.

My '40s/early '50s DB is darted, so who says not traditional?

Besides, wear what makes you feel good so you look good, rather than wear what others want you to wear. That's why we wear sport jackets and suits when others don't.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

orange fury said:


> Harris tweed was what got me into tweed. For Adrian's benefit- several years ago, Nick Wooster was made the creative director for JC Penney, and suddenly (for a short time) they had all of these trad and preppy staples available under their Stanford line, including Harris tweed jackets. The patterns were actually pretty unique and looked great- plus, they went on deep discount within a couple months of being released. I still have 2 of the jackets (sold my b/w herringbone)- this kicked it all off for me.


Nice!

BTW, the name is actually Adriel. Just trying to help, don't mind so long as not called late to dinner.

How long ago was JC Penny doing that?

How are those Standford in quality?

I have seen a couple tweeds but wasn't sure enough to consider.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> I just bought my fourth J.Crew-Moon sport coat as, like you, I love them - well made and at a great price. Literally, just spent a half hour at the tailor this morning getting my most recent purchase altered.


Wow, you certainly are a follower. Are they all tweeds?

Ever have the end of year clearance? That's when I prefer to make my store purchases.

Are you going to show us after the alterations if a tweed?



Fading Fast said:


> That Corbin sport coat is awesome. I agree with your comments on barleycorn - a great pattern that - like so many great patterns - seems to have all but disappeared. I had a dark-olive-barleycorn tweed a few decades ago that was my regular use one for years.


Did you see the fabric I posted a picture of? Maybe an option for you.

You like the color green? Seems not too common color for folks to love and harder to find in clothing especially cardigans (never seen).


----------



## Fading Fast

Adriel Rowley said:


> Wow, you certainly are a follower. Are they all tweeds?
> 
> Ever have the end of year clearance? That's when I prefer to make my store purchases.
> 
> Are you going to show us after the alterations if a tweed?
> 
> Did you see the fabric I posted a picture of? Maybe an option for you.
> 
> You like the color green? Seems not too common color for folks to love and harder to find in clothing especially cardigans (never seen).


I've bought my J.Crew sport coats over a decade and every single one on a meaningful sale (picked up one on a "close out" rack for $99* - actually, my girlfriend found it for me that way - she said it was the last one in the store and just happened to be my size). It's no great skill as J.Crew has a lot of sales, so I've never done worse than 30% off and usually better.

I'll check for accuracy later, but from memory, in J.Crew, I have four or five tweeds (an earlier one doesn't say Moon on it) plus a silk-cotton one (good for the "shoulder" seasons), a linen one and a cotton one for the summer. I'll gladly post pics when it comes back (s/b ready on 10/1 assuming it doesn't need more tweaks).

I liked the fabric you showed, but doesn't fit my style today which is very grey-color driven with stronger colors being brought in as accents in shirts, ties or sweaters. My sport coats and suits are all low-key and almost all in the grey family. When I was younger, I wore a lot more color.

* Don't remember the exact number, but I paid ~$150 in alterations for the sport coat, so more than the cost of it, but for ~$250 all in, a heck of a buy.


----------



## orange fury

Fading Fast said:


> I just bought my fourth J.Crew-Moon sport coat as, like you, I love them - well made and at a great price. Literally, just spent a half hour at the tailor this morning getting my most recent purchase altered.
> 
> That Corbin sport coat is awesome. I agree with your comments on barleycorn - a great pattern that - like so many great patterns - seems to have all but disappeared. I had a dark-olive-barleycorn tweed a few decades ago that was my regular use one for years.


J Crew does actually seem to do pretty great one-off jackets (Ir, not their usual suit fare). I have a brown corduroy jacket and navy velvet shawl collar DJ from them that are both wonderful.


----------



## Oldsarge

There are two in the greater Portland area. I'm feeling some pressure, here.


----------



## orange fury

Adriel Rowley said:


> Nice!
> 
> BTW, the name is actually Adriel. Just trying to help, don't mind so long as not called late to dinner.
> 
> How long ago was JC Penny doing that?
> 
> How are those Standford in quality?
> 
> I have seen a couple tweeds but wasn't sure enough to consider.


Gah, sorry bud, autocorrect strikes again lol.

I believe JCP did those jacket from 2013-maybe 2015? Not very long.

They were good jackets- they only did a couple patterns, but the fabric was good heavy Harris Tweed. Some people had complaints that it was only two button/darted/had a strong shoulder/was made overseas/had "poor" construction, but let's be honest. It's JC Penney, and people were comparing it to jackets that were 3-4x the price from Ben Silver.

It wasn't necessarily a great value at $300 retail, but they were immediately eligible for the 50-60% off coupons JCP regularly does. My only complaint was that the smallest size they had was a 40R and I'm a 38R, but it fit well enough.

Pics: 




































Actually sold this one a couple years ago:









Not JCP/Stanford, this is a vintage Lands End jacket:


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> I've bought my J.Crew sport coats over a decade and every single one on a meaningful sale (picked up one on a "close out" rack for $99* - actually, my girlfriend found it for me that way - she said it was the last one in the store and just happened to be my size). It's no great skill as J.Crew has a lot of sales, so I've never done worse than 30% off and usually better.


Thank you for the information, appreciated. Will keep my eyes out.



Fading Fast said:


> I'll check for accuracy later, but from memory, in J.Crew, I have four or five tweeds (an earlier one doesn't say Moon on it) plus a silk-cotton one (good for the "shoulder" seasons), a linen one and a cotton one for the summer. I'll gladly post pics when it comes back (s/b ready on 10/1 assuming it doesn't need more tweaks).


Right now was more looking to fill out the basics, though started thinking about non-wool especially now the weather is cooling, so appreciate knowing they also have warmer weather options.



Fading Fast said:


> I liked the fabric you showed, but doesn't fit my style today which is very grey-color driven with stronger colors being brought in as accents in shirts, ties or sweaters. My sport coats and suits are all low-key and almost all in the grey family. When I was younger, I wore a lot more color.


Ah, okay. I am 31, but sometime in the past put off by my flashy shiny ties (my family doesn't understand the difference between silk and polyester), enjoy grey, but also enjoy some color now and then. A balance and being situationally aware.


----------



## FLMike

Adriel Rowley said:


> My '40s/early '50s DB is darted, so who says not traditional?


He said, "not Trad", not "not traditional". There is actually a big difference in meaning on AAAC.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

orange fury said:


> J Crew does actually seem to do pretty great one-off jackets (Ir, not their usual suit fare). I have a brown corduroy jacket and navy velvet shawl collar DJ from them that are both wonderful.


I bought a couple fused odd jackets, never again. So I am even more particular on suits. Good to know J Crew odd jackets are the only ones which are worth purchase, appreciated.



orange fury said:


> Gah, sorry bud, autocorrect strikes again lol.


Ah, okay. I had that until added it to the dictionary, so get it.



orange fury said:


> They were good jackets- they only did a couple patterns, but the fabric was good heavy Harris Tweed. Some people had complaints that it was only two button/darted/had a strong shoulder/was made overseas/had "poor" construction, but let's be honest. It's JC Penney, and people were comparing it to jackets that were 3-4x the price from Ben Silver.
> 
> It wasn't necessarily a great value at $300 retail, but they were immediately eligible for the 50-60% off coupons JCP regularly does. My only complaint was that the smallest size they had was a 40R and I'm a 38R, but it fit well enough.


Great information! As if one sees on on eBay, my guess be no more than $50 (1/3 of purchase price).

Bet price also was a factor why didn't last, not enough margin.



orange fury said:


> Not JCP/Stanford, this is a vintage Lands End jacket:[/ATTACH]


Wow! That is great looking. Did see another Lands End tweed a while back on eBay, but didn't give me the fizz, so passed. But that one sure does.

BTW, true Lands End (not when sold in the department store) have bought shirts, seems to be good quality.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

FLMike said:


> He said, "not Trad", not "not traditional". There is actually a big difference in meaning on AAAC.


Ah, yes, missed that. Think some ways tend to dress a little Trad, though further research is needed.


----------



## orange fury

Adriel Rowley said:


> Ah, yes, missed that. Think some ways tend to dress a little Trad, though further research is needed.


Check out the WAYWT thread on the Trad board for ideas about the style. Short answer (and very broad generalizations):
Trad- sack suits (3/2, no darts), LWB's, ocbds. 1950's/early 60's businessman.

Ivy- chinos, 3/2 sack blazers, ocbds, Shetland sweaters, penny loafers. What an Ivy League college student would wear in the 50's and 60's (pre hippy)

Preppy- similar to Ivy, but louder colors/patterns (madras and pastel chinos). Once you move into the 80's/90's, Patagonia Snap T's and New Balance 990 Series make appearances (though this is also seen as more "fratty")

There's a bunch of subsets to these as well(southern trad can be different from trad, "go to hell" is a more aggressive version of preppy, etc), and people will argue on here ad infinitum about details and what is or isn't trad. As for me, I tend to skew much more preppy/GTH, but pull elements from each. People can label it whatever they want, but I wear what I like.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

orange fury said:


> Check out the WAYWT thread on the Trad board for ideas about the style. Short answer (and very broad generalizations):
> Trad- sack suits (3/2, no darts), LWB's, ocbds. 1950's/early 60's businessman.
> 
> Ivy- chinos, 3/2 sack blazers, ocbds, Shetland sweaters, penny loafers. What an Ivy League college student would wear in the 50's and 60's (pre hippy)
> 
> Preppy- similar to Ivy, but louder colors/patterns (madras and pastel chinos). Once you move into the 80's/90's, Patagonia Snap T's and New Balance 990 Series make appearances (though this is also seen as more "fratty")
> 
> There's a bunch of subsets to these as well(southern trad can be different from trad, "go to hell" is a more aggressive version of preppy, etc), and people will argue on here ad infinitum about details and what is or isn't trad. As for me, I tend to skew much more preppy/GTH, but pull elements from each. People can label it whatever they want, but I wear what I like.


Thank you for the great synopsis and appreciate the correction.

Totally agree, wear what you like.


----------



## Orsini

Maybe a smaller pattern on the shirt. Other than that, I like it.


----------



## FLMike

Orsini said:


> Maybe a smaller pattern on the shirt. Other than that, I like it.


Who are you talking to?


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Anyone happen to know what this weave pattern is? Picture from eBay, best can do.

No shoulder size so waiting back. Sorely temped at $23 all in (not sure what a good price for used Harris Tweed is).

Down the slippery slope I go... 

Thank y'all in advance. :beer:


----------



## FLMike

Tweed in Arizona? That slope must be slippery with sweat.


----------



## Oldsarge

Ever been to Flagstaff in January?


----------



## Adriel Rowley

FLMike said:


> Tweed in Arizona? That slope must be slippery with sweat.


You asked, you shall receive. 

I run a tad cold, anything under 75*F is starting to get cool. I wear thermal underwear, long shirts, and long pants all year and haven't had AC in a vehical for about four years. I have no problem wearing my heavy wool DB suit in Summer, most suits I wear with a sweater, light in Summer and heavy in Winter. Greatest need for dressing warm is going to Church, only when Summer do I forgo the overcoat wearing inside, just the suit and sweater as mentioned. Thus, why on the hunt to find alternatives to the corduroy jacket I was wearing every Sunday. My thyroid is fine, just inherited. My Great Uncle and his Daughter also run cold, even have a picture of him wearing long sleeves and long pants amongst those in short shirts and short pants.

Further, we here outside the urban dense core don't have urban heat island, so about October through May we have cool nights being the desert. I have been out here in Mesa since 2012 and had two winters where got into the 20s, even had snow one day (sadly in a lecture hall with no windows so missed it, wasn't until I was 28 got to be in falling snow).

I am not the only one wearing tweed here, seen a couple from here on eBay, the one I am considering is.


----------



## UteLawyer

Does anyone here wear Viyella shirts with their tweed? If so, I'm thinking of giving that a try, and am interested in how that worked out. Also, perhaps which retailer you prefer.


----------



## Oldsarge

I've thought about it but am waiting for cooler weather. I seem to have so well adjusted to the PNW that I'm still running around in short sleeves and shorts!


----------



## Peak and Pine

Adriel Rowley said:


> Anyone happen to know what this weave pattern is? Picture from eBay, best can do.
> 
> No shoulder size so waiting back. Sorely temped at $23 all in (not sure what a good price for used Harris Tweed is).
> 
> Down the slippery slope I go...
> 
> Thank y'all in advance. :beer:


Adriel, I think your pic's of a waffle weave or a basket weave. @matts will know. Be aware, and you may already know this, that Harris is a manufacturer of cloth not of clothing, usually, so it's possible to get Harris Tweed cloth in a poorly put-together jacket. Though I believe that rare. $23 is a very good price for an on-line Harris purchase; I hear tell second-hand shops are over-run with them, maybe at a better price.

Liked your post regarding woolens in Arizona. I too wear long johns year round. And a night cap in bed in the winter. Coldest it got here at the Peakery last winter was 27°. Inside my upstairs bedroom. Honest.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Peak and Pine said:


> Adriel, I think your pic's of a waffle weave or a basket weave. @matts will know. Be aware, and you may already know this, that Harris is a manufacturer of cloth not of clothing, usually, so it's possible to get Harris Tweed cloth in a poorly put-together jacket. Though I believe that rare. $23 is a very good price for an on-line Harris purchase; I hear tell second-hand shops are over-run with them, maybe at a better price.
> 
> Liked your post regarding woolens in Arizona. I too wear long johns year round. And a night cap in bed in the winter. Coldest it got here at the Peakery last winter was 27°. Inside my upstairs bedroom. Honest.


And if old enough, might not be true Harris Tweed per the modern rules.

I look at the label and style. If feels vintage, more willing to risk as in general find vintage is better quality (labor rates were much lower so hand work cost less).

I decided to go to a Goodwill for their half price day and there was about five tweeds, including a Stanford. I bought one, will post when not waiting for the cab to take us to get groceries. Was quite surprised how many considering in not the most well of area and not everyone enjoys the warm weather.

Coldest got in my home was low 40s as had the windows open not knowing was going to get that low and felt like Hans in the Star Wars scene where he is frozen.

Cheers and update later.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Here is the tweed jacket I purchased today, cost a whole $4 from Goodwill being half price.

Thick and rough, but not as rough as my Harris Tweed. I know not a perfect fit, liked the pattern too much. Not a big deal as can take it in myself.


----------



## Oldsarge

Good find!


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> Good find!


Thank you.

Working on a new thread with my total haul, but will take time being only ten images per a post.


----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> I've thought about it but am waiting for cooler weather. I seem to have so well adjusted to the PNW that I'm still running around in short sleeves and shorts!


Come December/January, when outside air temps are at their lowest point, here in central Florida, the wife and I will be wearing cotton poplin windbreakers! LOL.


----------



## FLMike

Oldsarge said:


> Ever been to Flagstaff in January?


No, but I've been to Tempe in January, and that's about 7 miles from his city of residence, Mesa.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

FLMike said:


> No, but I've been to Tempe in January, and that's about 7 miles from his city of residence, Mesa.


Tempe is significantly warmer due to urban heat island. Phoenix is worse, has runways eight feet thick of concrete that glows as bright as the Granite hills on thermal imaging.

I am in North Central Mesa. The res and open farmland is just a couple miles away, plus a large park and ranch about a quarter mile from here. Look for the Park of the Canals and you will see about where I am.

Further, each Winter varies. We can have warm ones and very cold ones like about three years ago. I volunteering outside from Thanksgiving until day before Christmas and all I could do to stay warm. But, was worth it even though in the Spring had a difference and asked not to volunteer anymore (fine by me as their loss because my Golden was bringing in about $300 a day). Honestly, hoping for another cold one as 12 months of warm weather can be a touch boring.


----------



## derum

Vintage Harris Tweed labels to help date those finds!
Apologies if posted previously.









1930's









1940's









1940's









1940's









1950's









1950's









1950's









1950's

1 of 2


----------



## derum

2 of 2









1950's









1960's









1960's









1970/80's









1970/80's









1980's









1980's


----------



## Orsini

FLMike said:


> Who are you talking to?


I can't find it now. Maybe I have the wrong thread.


----------



## Oldsarge

I've had conversations like that.:rock:


----------



## ran23

It was 39 this morning, brushing off my tweed.


----------



## eagle2250

ran23 said:


> It was 39 this morning, brushing off my tweed.


Count me as being mildly envious. It was in the mid 70's around here early this AM and the predicted high is 91 degrees! No Tweed for me...just yet. LOL.


----------



## CLTesquire

eagle2250 said:


> Count me as being mildly envious. It was in the mid 70's around here early this AM and the predicted high is 91 degrees! No Tweed for me...just yet. LOL.


Yep, we're supposed to get to the mid to upper 80's today. Sigh. No tweed for me either.


----------



## paxonus

I'm sorely tempted by this one from Peter Christian. It should look splendid with burgundy corduroys. I'm not particularly fond of the ticket pocket, but the action-back just might seal the deal:


----------



## Adriel Rowley

paxonus said:


> I'm sorely tempted by this one from Peter Christian. It should look splendid with burgundy corduroys. I'm not particularly fond of the ticket pocket, but the action-back just might seal the deal:


I bought a sport coat with a ticket pocket, but unlike this example, can have the flaps removed so the ticket pocket less noticeable. That fabric is good looking, agree burgundy look great with it.

BTW, laughed at your profile picture knowing the type of cat.


----------



## 16412

Some flaps can be put inside the pocket, and nobody will know.


----------



## 16412

eagle2250 said:


> Count me as being mildly envious. It was in the mid 70's around here early this AM and the predicted high is 91 degrees! No Tweed for me...just yet. LOL.


You need a good hobby. How about steelhead fishing this time of year in the Kenai River up in Alaska.


----------



## paxonus

WA said:


> You need a good hobby. How about steelhead fishing this time of year in the Kenai River up in Alaska.


I was just in Seattle last week and had a chance to visit the Ballard locks and check out the fish ladder. A brochure I picked up said that Steelhead had not been seen at the ladder for more than 5 years.


----------



## 16412

Steelhead and salmon have been terribly mis-managed by the government scientists for far too many decades here in Washington. They have utterly ruined the fabulous fishing we had. Non-scientists would have handled the fish far better, because they want to continue to catching lots of fish. The scientists just want a pay check.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## paxonus

I doubt anyone has ever waxed poetic about worsted wool, or gabardine. Tweed, on the other hand, inspires the following:

I love you because you love Harris tweed,
How it's several times slumped into bankruptcy,
Business plans hauled back from the dead,
Only to find itself again
Slyly prized, mixed with moorlands
Honeymooners have mooned on, sheep
Trotted deftly across. I love you
Because you hug its sparkle and dourness,
Dyed-in-the-wool strength, sphagnum-moss green, peaty reds.
To wear tweed is to put on the planet,
Checked or unchecked, islands, hard seas, air threads
Woven from the world's greatest democracy,
The disunited states of Harris.

The rest can be found here:
https://www.scottishpoetrylibrary.org.uk/poetry/poems/hard-wearing-flowers


----------



## Fading Fast

Adriel Rowley said:


> Wow, you certainly are a follower. Are they all tweeds?...Are you going to show us after the alterations if a tweed?...


Got the new one back from the tailor yesterday, so, as promised, here are some pics. I just tossed the coat on over my tan jeans and OCBD for the pics.
















I love the details such as the oxford university shirt fabric at the meeting of the seams in the unlined inside of the coat:
















And I thought you'd enjoy seeing my "collection" of J.Crew herringbone tweed sport coats acquired over +/- the last ten years. From left to right:

Silk-linen-cotton, mid-weight "tweed" (great fall and spring sport coat)
Unlined Moon Mills blue-grey tweed
Lined heavier-weight black-white tweed
Unlined Moon Mills slightly-lighter-in-color blue-grey than #2 tweed (bought for ~$125)
Lined and heavy "oatmeal" tweed ($99, last one left on sale rack in June of that year) - this thing could stop a bullet
(The new one) unlined Moon Mill light-grey tweed
Lined dark grey tweed (the oldest one)


----------



## Flanderian

*Very nice!

*


----------



## never behind

I’d like some opinions on where to buy tweed jackets that won’t break the bank. I’ve been searching eBay for months and only found one that was remotely an option. I tried BB (on sale) but they didn’t have a size that fit. I stopped at J Crew in NYC but all I found was a wool blend (I think cotton). I looked at Thomas Farthing but I’m too fat to fit into their jackets based on their measurements. 

I am going to be in Buffalo Monday and will stop at O’Connell’s. I’m sure there are great options but at $800/jacket That’s maybe a one jacket buy whenever they go on sale. 

I’ve been looking at Harris tweeds but would be fine with something else (e.g., Magee) if the quality is good. 

Signed,
Someone who really wants tweed


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Fading Fast

never behind said:


> ... I stopped at J Crew in NYC but all I found was a wool blend (I think cotton). ...


Good point. For me, since I have several all-wool, fully-lined ones (#3, 5 and 7 above, plus a Polo and a Brooks Brothers 100% herringbone wool tweed sport coat), what I like about the new J.Crew one (and #2 and 4 above) is that it is a wool-cotton blend and also unlined; hence, it has a tweed look and feel but is much less warm / heavy than a full-weight, all wool, fully-lined sport coat.

The wool-cotton, unlined ones are great for times when you will be wearing it mainly inside or with a sweater underneath and you don't want to boil or feel to constricted. But, as you note, if you are looking for a traditional, 100% wool, heavy tweed, this is not the one.

I don't think J.Crew still sells the model, but #3 and #5 in my post above are both really heavy (as noted, #5 could stop a bullet). And both the Polo and BB ones I noted feel more like horse blankets than sport coats (kidding, but not really as they are seriously heavy sport coats). And that's great for outdoor protection, but spend any real time inside with them on - in today's well-heated world - and you'll boil.


----------



## momsdoc

never behind said:


> I'd like some opinions on where to buy tweed jackets that won't break the bank. I've been searching eBay for months and only found one that was remotely an option. I tried BB (on sale) but they didn't have a size that fit. I stopped at J Crew in NYC but all I found was a wool blend (I think cotton). I looked at Thomas Farthing but I'm too fat to fit into their jackets based on their measurements.
> 
> I am going to be in Buffalo Monday and will stop at O'Connell's. I'm sure there are great options but at $800/jacket That's maybe a one jacket buy whenever they go on sale.
> 
> I've been looking at Harris tweeds but would be fine with something else (e.g., Magee) if the quality is good.
> 
> Signed,
> Someone who really wants tweed
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


There's a number of sites. The Harris Tweed shop being one.










Another is Harris Tweed Isle of Harris.

https://www.harristweedisleofharris...Gents-Jackets/c/19585056/offset=0&sort=normal


----------



## orange fury

Fading Fast said:


> Got the new one back from the tailor yesterday, so, as promised, here are some pics. I just tossed the coat on over my tan jeans and OCBD for the pics.
> View attachment 24832
> View attachment 24833
> 
> 
> I love the details such as the oxford university shirt fabric at the meeting of the seams in the unlined inside of the coat:
> View attachment 24835
> View attachment 24834
> 
> 
> And I thought you'd enjoy seeing my "collection" of J.Crew herringbone tweed sport coats acquired over +/- the last ten years. From left to right:
> 
> Silk-linen-cotton, mid-weight "tweed" (great fall and spring sport coat)
> Unlined Moon Mills blue-grey tweed
> Lined heavier-weight black-white tweed
> Unlined Moon Mills slightly-lighter-in-color blue-grey than #2 tweed (bought for ~$125)
> Lined and heavy "oatmeal" tweed ($99, last one left on sale rack in June of that year) - this thing could stop a bullet
> (The new one) unlined Moon Mill light-grey tweed
> Lined dark grey tweed (the oldest one)
> 
> View attachment 24836


What are the percentages on the wool/cotton split, if you don't mind me asking? I'm very tempted by this if it's a reasonable split (or, not 90% cotton)


----------



## paxonus

never behind said:


> I'd like some opinions on where to buy tweed jackets that won't break the bank. I've been searching eBay for months and only found one that was remotely an option. I tried BB (on sale) but they didn't have a size that fit. I stopped at J Crew in NYC but all I found was a wool blend (I think cotton). I looked at Thomas Farthing but I'm too fat to fit into their jackets based on their measurements.
> 
> I am going to be in Buffalo Monday and will stop at O'Connell's. I'm sure there are great options but at $800/jacket That's maybe a one jacket buy whenever they go on sale.
> 
> I've been looking at Harris tweeds but would be fine with something else (e.g., Magee) if the quality is good.
> 
> Signed,
> Someone who really wants tweed
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Take a look here:

https://www.peterchristianoutfitters.com/tweed


----------



## never behind

paxonus said:


> Take a look here:
> 
> https://www.peterchristianoutfitters.com/tweed


Thanks. Those are some nice jackets. I'd prefer a 2 button but I guess I could always leave the top unbuttoned. I've requested some measurements.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## never behind

momsdoc said:


> There's a number of sites. The Harris Tweed shop being one.
> 
> View attachment 24851
> 
> 
> Another is Harris Tweed Isle of Harris.
> 
> https://www.harristweedisleofharris...Gents-Jackets/c/19585056/offset=0&sort=normal
> 
> View attachment 24850


Thanks momsdoc. I will check these out.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Got the new one back from the tailor yesterday, so, as promised, here are some pics. I just tossed the coat on over my tan jeans and OCBD for the pics.
> View attachment 24832
> View attachment 24833
> 
> 
> I love the details such as the oxford university shirt fabric at the meeting of the seams in the unlined inside of the coat:
> View attachment 24835
> View attachment 24834
> 
> 
> And I thought you'd enjoy seeing my "collection" of J.Crew herringbone tweed sport coats acquired over +/- the last ten years. From left to right:
> 
> Silk-linen-cotton, mid-weight "tweed" (great fall and spring sport coat)
> Unlined Moon Mills blue-grey tweed
> Lined heavier-weight black-white tweed
> Unlined Moon Mills slightly-lighter-in-color blue-grey than #2 tweed (bought for ~$125)
> Lined and heavy "oatmeal" tweed ($99, last one left on sale rack in June of that year) - this thing could stop a bullet
> (The new one) unlined Moon Mill light-grey tweed
> Lined dark grey tweed (the oldest one)
> 
> View attachment 24836


Wow...the Tweed looks great on you. Long, long ago, in a galaxy far, far away, called Lock Haven, Pa., I used to cut that svelte a profile, but alas, not anymore!


----------



## never behind

paxonus said:


> Take a look here:
> 
> https://www.peterchristianoutfitters.com/tweed


I don't want to clutter this thread much more but PC's customer service emailed me that 42 and 44 jackets have the same chest measurement. Also, she couldn't give me a waist measurement since "everyone is different."

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Wow...the Tweed looks great on you. Long, long ago, in a galaxy far, far away, called Lock Haven, Pa., I used to cut that svelte a profile, but alas, not anymore!


Thank you very much.

As noted in my post, I do have a couple of better tweeds, but I love the J.Crew ones as they look pretty good, have held up well, don't cost a lot (hence, I can bring some variety to my wardrobe and I don't sweat if they have to get tucked into an over head bin or scrunched in the corner of a bar) and, surprisingly, garner compliments regularly. And they just feel good on.

As to regionality, if my girlfriend had her way, we'd be living in Maine not NYC, so I'll always need tweed...thankfully.


----------



## paxonus

never behind said:


> I don't want to clutter this thread much more but PC's customer service emailed me that 42 and 44 jackets have the same chest measurement. Also, she couldn't give me a waist measurement since "everyone is different."
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That is odd. Did you get a shoulder measurement? Since they have a US address, shipping is cheap and exchanges are free. Since they only offer one fit, I would expect you would probably need some tailoring.


----------



## never behind

paxonus said:


> That is odd. Did you get a shoulder measurement? Since they have a US address, shipping is cheap and exchanges are free. Since they only offer one fit, I would expect you would probably need some tailoring.


I asked for yoke, chest and waist and they only gave me the chest. I saw where you can return ship to NYC, so I may just order a jacket and go from there. They were nice enough to tell me I need a short based on my desired length measurement.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## paxonus

never behind said:


> I asked for yoke, chest and waist and they only gave me the chest. I saw where you can return ship to NYC, so I may just order a jacket and go from there. They were nice enough to tell me I need a short based on my desired length measurement.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If you order, let me know what you think. I'm considering getting one.


----------



## never behind

paxonus said:


> If you order, let me know what you think. I'm considering getting one.


Will do. I'd like your thoughts if you beat me to it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Fading Fast

orange fury said:


> What are the percentages on the wool/cotton split, if you don't mind me asking? I'm very tempted by this if it's a reasonable split (or, not 90% cotton)


It's 55% wool / 45% cotton. To my hand, it feels woolly / tweedy not "cottony," less heavy than the all-wool ones, but I would have guess 75% or more wool from feel.

If you want a lighter-weight "tweed" for a very reasonable price (you can get it for just under $200 with the current sale), I encourage you to try it (you can always send it back).

I think you, like me, have one of J.Crew's old heavy "bullet proof" 100% wool tweeds (which I love, but boil if I wear it inside too long or with a heavy sweater underneath) - this is not that. This still feels wool and tweedy, but is definitely lighter in weight - especially not being lined. It works well with a sweater underneath / when you'll be indoors as it won't make you boil.


----------



## Dhaller

87F today; 91F tomorrow.

I think I'll just tweed vicariously for now.

(I'm wearing a Tori Richard cotton lawn camp shirt - no tee shirt - today. On October 4th. Sad.)

DH


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> Got the new one back from the tailor yesterday, so, as promised, here are some pics. I just tossed the coat on over my tan jeans and OCBD for the pics.


Thank you, appreciated. Looks great and do agree nice detail using shirting rather than serge stitching.
That is quite the collection of tweed there! Something to aspire to.


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## Adriel Rowley

Raining hard with lightning and thunder, 53*F this morning. Ah, cold weather! 

Wore the tweed suit for the first time. Turns out the $30 gun check (if wrong please correct) overcoat bought last Winter fits it perfectly and looks great (Sister-in-Law said the same). Sister-in-law did say should be driving a Model T, my reply was no a MGB GT (GT so can take a dog or two with me ).

As for temperature, was cold inside even with the overcoat, should have worn wool socks. Been looking at fabric for a waistcoat, maybe need to hurry up if cold coming early.

Cheers. :beer:


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## Adelstensfostre

Looking good squire, looking good (though I find the gloves jarring). Some squares will likely find it "costumey", but woe unto them I say.

As for waistcoats, may I recommend and suggest you have a look at Mucros Weavers of Kilarney, Co. Kerry? I have three (or is it four...) of theirs and they're about as excellent as you could wish a tweed waistcoat to be. €130 each, including shipping.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Adelstensfostre said:


> Looking good squire, looking good (though I find the gloves jarring). Some squares will likely find it "costumey", but woe unto them I say.
> 
> As for waistcoats, may I recommend and suggest you have a look at Mucros Weavers of Kilarney, Co. Kerry? I have three (or is it four...) of theirs and they're about as excellent as you could wish a tweed waistcoat to be. €130 each, including shipping.


Appreciate the complement. Glad someone sees the Britishness.

I was thinking the gloves were too bright, but the slightly darker are heavy lined, these more frock lining. All my gloves were gifts and look at the prices now for leather not made in China and so far stunned... but that was before this forum, guess need to look and if no answer posted, ask. A medium dark brown be more versatile. Prefer also a light lining as not going skating.

How is it like a costume?

Used what I had to stay warm, knowing could be improved. Who get's it right on the first try, especially when just starting out acquiring?

Thank you for the referral. No prices and no helpful pictures, look like lined backs rather than self backs. Can't seem to find self backs, so why looking for a fabric to make my own.


----------



## Fading Fast

Adriel Rowley said:


> Raining hard with lightning and thunder, 53*F this morning. Ah, cold weather!
> 
> Wore the tweed suit for the first time. Turns out the $30 gun check (if wrong please correct) overcoat bought last Winter fits it perfectly and looks great (Sister-in-Law said the same). Sister-in-law did say should be driving a Model T, my reply was no a MGB GT (GT so can take a dog or two with me ).
> 
> As for temperature, was cold inside even with the overcoat, should have worn wool socks. Been looking at fabric for a waistcoat, maybe need to hurry up if cold coming early.
> 
> Cheers. :beer:


Good looking coat and fits your style well. I prefer them to hit lower, but today the style is closer to, or even shorter than, your coat's length, so you're more than good in length.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> Good looking coat and fits your style well. I prefer them to hit lower, but today the style is closer to, or even shorter than, your coat's length, so you're more than good in length.


Thank you for the compliment. Would say top favorite as has this interesting hand where one way is super soft and the other prickly.

The overcoat, right? Was the first one I bought, now know being 6'-2" a long is better.

The cashmere green one you probably have seen comes about mid calf, so seems more variable than sport or suit coats.

Will have to look where my 1930 long coat sits (not designed to be an overcoat).


----------



## Winhes2

Found this donegal yesterday in a local thrift shop.


----------



## Oldsarge

Going the whole hog, as it were.


----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> Going the whole hog, as it were.
> 
> View attachment 25234


Alas, to my eye, all that plaid is almost too much of a good thing! As just a sport jacket it would be a phenomenal look.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> Alas, to my eye, all that plaid is almost too much of a good thing! As just a sport jacket it would be a phenomenal look.


Sorry, no almost about it!


----------



## paxonus

Oldsarge said:


> Going the whole hog, as it were.
> 
> View attachment 25234


Judging from the way that jacket drapes and the patch pockets, it looks to be a very lightweight material and is probably unlined. I could even wear that here in LA for at least a few months in the year. Also, from what I can see of the trousers, they look very full. I'm wondering if they are breeks.


----------



## Troones

I recently posted my newly acquired J Press herringbone SC on the October purchases thread but here it is again. This makes four Press sack sport coats for me, including two other herringbones and one camel hair.
I'm not strictly trad (or trad at all really), as I wear a variety of cuts and styles of jacket. But I have to say, nothing fits me or flatters my physique the way Press suits and sport coats do. Love 'em!


----------



## Oldsarge

eagle2250 said:


> Alas, to my eye, all that plaid is almost too much of a good thing! As just a sport jacket it would be a phenomenal look.





Flanderian said:


> Sorry, no almost about it!


I can's say that I disagree, gentlemen. Much as I love tweed that image is more than a little flamboyant even for my love-of-color taste. Nice jacket, though.


----------



## never behind

I was excited to find a tweed on eBay that had perfect measurements. I just put it on and was going to post a picture. Then thought, “this looks odd.” Yep it didn’t have 19” shoulders but 20.5”. How the $&@$ do you miss it by that much. 

I’m just going to have to not be cheap and just buy a new one. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Adriel Rowley

never behind said:


> I was excited to find a tweed on eBay that had perfect measurements. I just put it on and was going to post a picture. Then thought, "this looks odd." Yep it didn't have 19" shoulders but 20.5". How the $&@$ do you miss it by that much.
> 
> I'm just going to have to not be cheap and just buy a new one.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Oh bummer! So the top of the sleeves dimple?

I blew it on my first eBay, but come closer and closer. Still a risk so has to be really good deal. Though found better deals at a thrift store.


----------



## never behind

Adriel Rowley said:


> Oh bummer! So the top of the sleeves dimple?
> 
> I blew it on my first eBay, but come closer and closer. Still a risk so has to be really good deal. Though found better deals at a thrift store.


Badly. They basically droop off my shoulders. ☹

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Adriel Rowley

never behind said:


> Badly. They basically droop off my shoulders. ☹
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Oh my. Sorry I didn't see it was unstructured. I wear a 17" but can go 19" if very structured (as was the style in the '40s and '50s IIRC).

I realized forgot to mention the AAAC Informal Trad Thrift Store Exchange, at least to hopefully recoup some of the loss. Heck, maybe find something your size.

Best of luck.


----------



## Fading Fast

never behind said:


> Badly. They basically droop off my shoulders. ☹
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


In my sport / suit jacket hierarchy of fit, the shoulders being right is number one - they can't really be altered and the jacket never looks right if the shoulders are off.

Most other things can be altered if they are close and a few things can be a touch off without really killing the overall aesthetic, but the shoulders have to fit, pretty much, perfectly IMHO.

I feel your pain - cause I've been there.


----------



## Oldsarge

This seems more like it.


----------



## Oldsarge

And these.


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## Flanderian

The *real* stuff! irate:

_*Harris Tweed -









*_
(Guaranteed suitable for arctic exploration! )


----------



## RogerP

Oldsarge said:


> This seems more like it.
> 
> View attachment 25278


Oh. Hell. Yes.


----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> And these.
> 
> View attachment 25280


It's probably all about camera angle for the shot and resultant visual misperceptions, but the abbreviated rise on those trousers seems oddly short for trousers of that design and made of that fabric. :icon_scratch:


----------



## paxonus

eagle2250 said:


> It's probably all about camera angle for the shot and resultant visual misperceptions, but the abbreviated rise on those trousers seems oddly short for trousers of that design and made of that fabric. :icon_scratch:


They look like something made by Epaulet. They are indeed very low rise on that particular model.


----------



## FLMike

eagle2250 said:


> It's probably all about camera angle for the shot and resultant visual misperceptions, but the abbreviated rise on those trousers seems oddly short for trousers of that design and made of that fabric. :icon_scratch:


I thought the same thing when I first saw that pic. Very low rise.


----------



## eagle2250

paxonus said:


> They look like something made by Epaulet. They are indeed very low rise on that particular model.


Thanks for the clarification!


----------



## Oldsarge

Tweed, fedora and the Highlands. What's not to like?


----------



## Oldsarge

Some fabric samples.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> Some fabric samples.
> 
> View attachment 25488


From?

Interesting how your books are put in spine to the back, by the way.


----------



## Oldsarge

Darned if I know. I just found the picture.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> Darned if I know. I just found the picture.


Ah, the way it was written didn't know if those were your samples. Thus, why the books turned around as only to be background tone.


----------



## ItalianStyle

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 25381
> 
> 
> Tweed, fedora and the Highlands. What's not to like?


Something about this gentleman seems odd... does he have quite short legs or is that an optical illusion?
Nice tweed though


----------



## Oldsarge

I think it's the combination of a slightly long coat and breeks. And those high leather boots must add to the effect.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


>


I am so envious...so very envious!


----------



## g3org3y

New Harris Tweed purchase. Autumn in full swing here in the UK now.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


>


I can't decide if I want the jacket or the vest more and, in either case, I want the tie included. That is one good looking patch pocket.



g3org3y said:


> New Harris Tweed purchase. Autumn in full swing here in the UK now.


It's a bold and very cool jacket - enjoy.


----------



## Flanderian

g3org3y said:


> New Harris Tweed purchase. Autumn in full swing here in the UK now.


Awfully nice!


----------



## Winhes2

Would a moleskin shirt be worn with tweed? https://www.amazon.com/Nautica-Mole...0_CR0,0,140,180_QL70&keywords=moleskin+shirts


----------



## 16412

Looks like a nice shirt.
Think it would go great with some tweeds.


----------



## Flanderian

Cleave's *mighty-fine* herringbone!


----------



## 16412

That is a mighty fine cut of clothes.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Suit is amazing! Fantastic colours. Who is the supplier out of curiosity?

And please excuse my ignorance, who is Cleave?


----------



## Troones

Agree! And how would one go about getting a pair of those boots? Absolute perfection.


----------



## Flanderian

Cleav's exceptional houndstooth. Seen before, but worth a reprise.


----------



## Flanderian

Bladen -


----------



## Oldsarge

Oh, that mustard and blue windowpane! Be still, my pocketbook.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

I have never owned one single article of clothing (and I have some Purple Label and Oxxford items acquired on deep discounts) that looks as nice as this one does.

Going a step further, I've never had a single day in my life where it would be appropriate to wear an item of clothing as nice as this. Basically, that sport coat is beyond the aspirations of my life.

But heck, just like those Apparel Arts illustrations, I can enjoy dreaming.


----------



## Oldsarge

You need to buy a country estate. Then you'll be justified in dressing like this every day.


----------



## 16412

Doesn't he say he doesn't always tell his wife when he goes to the tailor? His wife thinks he has plenty. Maybe they need to add on another section to the castle for extra closet space?


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> You need to buy a country estate. Then you'll be justified in dressing like this every day.


Saturday to-do list:
1. Drop off dry cleaning
2. Pick up milk
3. Buy country estate
4. Find bag with tens of millions of dollars in it
5. Reverse order of #3 and #4
6. Buy above-pictured sport coat to wear at my new country estate


----------



## Oldsarge

I didn't say it had to be a _big_ country estate . . . :laughing:


----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 26030


Somewhere around here I have an old Beretta tweed shooting jacket, with pockets that look similar, but I'm pretty sure the sleeve cuff buttons were not functional(?). I really enjoyed wearing that jacket...until it shrank!


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> Somewhere around here I have an old Beretta tweed shooting jacket, with pockets that look similar, but I'm pretty sure the sleeve cuff buttons were not functional(?). I really enjoyed wearing that jacket...until it shrank!


Ah, yes, the old shrinking jacket conundrum!!!


----------



## never behind

Newbie question time. 

Donegal is just a type of tweed correct? Correct to say a “softer” tweed than Harris?

I’ve seen nice Donegal trousers online. Are these substitutes for flannels? Are they considered less formal than flannels? Can you wear them with a navy blazer or is a tweed jacket the appropriate formality?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Flanderian

never behind said:


> Newbie question time.
> 
> Donegal is just a type of tweed correct? Correct to say a "softer" tweed than Harris?
> 
> I've seen nice Donegal trousers online. Are these substitutes for flannels? Are they considered less formal than flannels? Can you wear them with a navy blazer or is a tweed jacket the appropriate formality?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


1. Donegal actually has two possible meanings; first tweed from Donegal. A plain weave often with flecks of different colors woven in, and secondarily, a tweed of a similar description woven elsewhere.

2. Both *usually* have a softer hand than Harris Tweed which is only woven on the isles of Lewis and Harris.

3. Tweeds are *generally* a notch down on the formality scale from flannel. (I equivocate only because it is possible to have a particularly fine and closely woven plain tweed, which contrasted to a bold, rustic flannel may not be.)

4. Sometimes - depends upon the specific tweed, the occasion, and the rest of the ensemble.


----------



## Oldsarge

never behind said:


> Newbie question time.
> 
> Donegal is just a type of tweed correct? Correct to say a "softer" tweed than Harris?
> 
> I've seen nice Donegal trousers online. Are these substitutes for flannels? Are they considered less formal than flannels? Can you wear them with a navy blazer or is a tweed jacket the appropriate formality?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


With a blazer, my preference would be for flannel or worsted. If you like Donegal trousers, may I suggest a corduroy jacket? Or possibly suede? Either would make up a delightfully casual/countryside ensemble.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Since fairly new, my statement is not confident and leaning towards a question.

My understanding is texture also plays a part. So if the blazer is a tight smooth weave then a heavy nap flannel pants would not work, as the blazer be too formal for the informal pants, though a worsted flannel would.


----------



## orange fury

J Crew Moon tweed today:


----------



## derum

Harris tweed with simple black polo neck.


----------



## paxonus

Here is a real beauty by Gieves & Hawkes.


----------



## Oldsarge

Oh, yes. And hand me the Purdey while you're about it, please.


----------



## Oldsarge

Adriel Rowley said:


> Since fairly new, my statement is not confident and leaning towards a question.
> 
> My understanding is texture also plays a part. So if the blazer is a tight smooth weave then a heavy nap flannel pants would not work, as the blazer be too formal for the informal pants, though a worsted flannel would.


That's my take on the subject. In general, smooth with smooth, textured with textured.


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## Adriel Rowley

At least not in my length.


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## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> That's my take on the subject. In general, smooth with smooth, textured with textured.


Thank you for the confirmation.


----------



## Clintotron

I think a mix of textures is a case-by-case situation. Pattern, value and other factors play a part in the mixing and the overall look.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## 16412

Adriel Rowley said:


> Since fairly new, my statement is not confident and leaning towards a question.
> 
> My understanding is texture also plays a part. So if the blazer is a tight smooth weave then a heavy nap flannel pants would not work, as the blazer be too formal for the informal pants, though a worsted flannel would.


Blazers formal? Blazers were considered less formal than sports coats and not much work put into them. Then customers, of tailors, starting to ask for them to be more refined. So says Tailor And Cutter book from1949 that I've read.

Out on water a little fuzz on the cloth prevents the wind from blowing through, therefore, keeping the person warmer. Blazers are also made from this kind of cloth.


----------



## 215339

Found this post on TOF










MTM garment, I love the pockets and the vest underneath.


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## Oldsarge

Nice. My own preference is for the vest to match the trousers rather than the coat but to each his own.


----------



## 215339

Oldsarge said:


> Nice. My own preference is for the vest to match the trousers rather than the coat but to each his own.


I was so enamoured with it I didn't even notice.

Agree on both counts.


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## Adriel Rowley

WA said:


> Blazers formal? Blazers were considered less formal than sports coats and not much work put into them. Then customers, of tailors, starting to ask for them to be more refined. So says Tailor And Cutter book from1949 that I've read.
> 
> Out on water a little fuzz on the cloth prevents the wind from blowing through, therefore, keeping the person warmer. Blazers are also made from this kind of cloth.


Thank you for this discussion. Hopefully can continue.

Interesting as never heard this. Where from out of curiosity?

My understand also was the blazer never has unstructured shoulders like a sport coat, owing to a military history, and the more structure, the more formal it it.

My blazer, with antiqued brass buttons is of a very smooth and very fine silk (as thought I was allergic to wool) as you might have seen, has very structured shoulders.

The only coat I would ever wear with jeans have natural shoulders and be of a corduroy, flannel, or tweed. Chinos is about as in formal as I understand can go with a blazer.

Cheers. :beer:


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## 16412

Clothing expectations are ever changing. 
We can sometimes find out what the past was for something and its changes up to the present date. The future of it, nobody knows.
What is classic? Middle of the road? Plain Jane? Etc. of thought? And yet so many people can pick out something that dates it. Oh! That's from the 80s, or 90s, or 50s, whatever decade it was made and represents. I think if you want classic you need to be eccentric. You fit your ideas and they fit forever. I'm not talking about fashion forward here. And there are some very good artist out there with clothes, fashions, non fashions, etc.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

WA said:


> Clothing expectations are ever changing.
> We can sometimes find out what the past was for something and its changes up to the present date. The future of it, nobody knows.
> What is classic? Middle of the road? Plain Jane? Etc. of thought? And yet so many people can pick out something that dates it. Oh! That's from the 80s, or 90s, or 50s, whatever decade it was made and represents. I think if you want classic you need to be eccentric. You fit your ideas and they fit forever. I'm not talking about fashion forward here. And there are some very good artist out there with clothes, fashions, non fashions, etc.


Interesting, thank you!

To me, the '30s and '40s come close, though one can tell from that era because it differs. Here is another reason to embrace being eccentric.


----------



## Oldsarge

I believe G. Bruce Boyer nailed it. You need to be comfortable in your clothes and to have fun with them. Like The Bruce, I consider myself a rather rumpled person and enjoy the fact. Others may differ. But always keep in mind that you are the person in the clothes. The clothes themselves are not the person.


----------



## 16412

You don't believe "Clothes makes the man"?
Some tailors think that they know what the customer should wear. And sometimes they are right. But, who is buying the clothes? Much more, wear them! And, perhaps, many tailors don't know all the purposes of clothes, anyway.
And there is how much money. Bill Gates could hire 500 tailors to continuously make him suits and it wouldn't put a dent in his money problem. The other end of the scale are those who are lucky enough to buy at Goodwill. Some people buy clothes that are worn once. What wise tailor is going to try to persuade the customer otherwise? There is cloth made that is so fine it can only sewn once (no mistakes allowed and handled carefully), how many times can these cloth garments be worn? Once? Twise? They can't be washed. And the cloth is top dollar? We buy what we can afford.


----------



## Oldsarge

Perhaps clothes make the man in a competitive business world but for those of us fortunate to have survived a while with sufficient means for comfort, then making an impression no longer matters. Wear what you want. Hopefully you will want to dress with style and grace (even if it's a bit rumpled). I am no longer a beginner . . .


----------



## Adriel Rowley

WA said:


> You don't believe "Clothes makes the man"?
> Some tailors think that they know what the customer should wear. And sometimes they are right. But, who is buying the clothes? Much more, wear them! And, perhaps, many tailors don't know all the purposes of clothes, anyway.
> And there is how much money. Bill Gates could hire 500 tailors to continuously make him suits and it wouldn't put a dent in his money problem. The other end of the scale are those who are lucky enough to buy at Goodwill. Some people buy clothes that are worn once. What wise tailor is going to try to persuade the customer otherwise? There is cloth made that is so fine it can only sewn once (no mistakes allowed and handled carefully), how many times can these cloth garments be worn? Once? Twise? They can't be washed. And the cloth is top dollar? We buy what we can afford.


Fascinating!

I purchase off eBay and Goodwill because unable to afford the $500 to get a nicer suit. Plus, I am still learning, so if get one that was a $10 mistake, oh well. But $100? Ouch.

I come here similar to how I came to a tailor who seems sadly to have passed on. I now know thanks to the forum what is better for me, though they never make the decision.



Oldsarge said:


> Perhaps clothes make the man in a competitive business world but for those of us fortunate to have survived a while with sufficient means for comfort, then making an impression no longer matters. Wear what you want. Hopefully you will want to dress with style and grace (even if it's a bit rumpled). I am no longer a beginner . . .


I think it is both, though end of the day the person has to decide how they want to dress and not how someone tells them to.

I have a charcoal suit for business occasions. I can choose it and it makes me feel different then my less business appropriate choices. Today I wore my grey tweed suit, a light blue mock neck shirt, and a blue and grey shawl neck pullover to tie all together and play with the ticking in the suit and the pullover. Was just right, in showed respect to who I was meeting with yet not over dressed (and they know well my pertinacity to over dress).

I am at an unusual place in my life where I will be 32 in December but don't have employment yet and choose to wear sartorial clothing. Partly because I am a beginner and can take advantage of this time to explore and learn and when have an interview and gain employment, I know what works.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Back to tweed, in this case, a Norman Hilton for Harvey Ltd. in Providence and St. Louis. I am thinking is kind of a sack cut: no front darts, maybe soft shoulders, and a three button roll two, correct? Found it amusing the theme is listed as Professor.

Highest ever paid IIRC (if not second highest) for second hand, however, attracted me greatly over any other grey tweeds. The most regarding the flecking of brown to gold, green to blue; does have the usual solids of white and grey. Plus, has a throat latch which would like to try out. Now I can check off having a grey sport coat I been looking out for (been wearing my tweed suit coat as an odd jacket).

The only bummer is eBay states expected to be received next Thursday, normally only take a few days to ship so will be very wrinkled. Plus, having to be like a child waiting for Christmas. 

Decided to look into Norman Hilton and turns out one of the early Ivy brands and apparently good quality. Not a lot of information out there, anyone else have anything to add?

By the way, coming from Buzzards Bay, Massachusetts. So, has gone from most likely Providence, Buzzards Bay and maybe other cities, then to Arizona and hopefully Texas.

Enjoy! :beer:


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## Oldsarge

Tweed is remarkable stuff. If it arrives wrinkly, just put it on a proper hanger and let it relax for a day or two. You will be amazed at how fast the wrinkles disappear.


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## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> Tweed is remarkable stuff. If it arrives wrinkly, just put it on a proper hanger and let it relax for a day or two. You will be amazed at how fast the wrinkles disappear.


Good to know, thank you! 

My green sport coat came shoved in a bag, total mess, but not a wrinkle to be found!  :amazing: The fabric is smooth and tight, not sure what it is, just know doesn't wrinkle.

So any thoughts on the coat itself?


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## Oldsarge

The tweed above? It's lovely. Could do with a forest green turtleneck, I think, but it's so perfectly neutral that you could put any color you wanted beneath it.


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## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> The tweed above? It's lovely. Could do with a forest green turtleneck, I think, but it's so perfectly neutral that you could put any color you wanted beneath it.


Great idea! Thank you on both accounts.

I only have a bottle green mock neck pullover...

Then got interrupted by the cab taking me to thrift store, then all day kept trying to write and something be more pressing.

In the thrift, found a brand new cotton pullover in a wonderful spruce green, though a round neck. Too good of a price so went for it. After this, will go post it in my personal thread as doesn't involve tweed, at least for now.


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## never behind

Some more newbie questions regarding tweed, if you fine gentlemen will indulge me.

So looking at buying a brown-ish tweed and found two at PC. But the styles are very different. The "oat" colored two button is pretty basic but I'm not sure if a lighter color is best to pair with various grey flannels. The 3 button is a nice, darker shade but I'm not sure if the style fits as an odd jacket? I haven't had a 3 button jacket since the 90s and they were always parts of a suit.

















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## Acct2000

I could get use from both of them. (I like the gorge of the top coat better.) Both colors will be really versatile and go with a huge range of trousers, shirts and ties.


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## Oldsarge

Agreed.


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## 215339

The cut is my issue. It does not look flattering in the slightest.


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## never behind

delicious_scent said:


> The cut is my issue. It does not look flattering in the slightest.


Are you referring to the 3 button?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 215339

never behind said:


> Are you referring to the 3 button?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


both really.

the quarters and overall silhouette for sure.

although if you like them, then buy them.


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## never behind

delicious_scent said:


> both really.
> 
> the quarters and overall silhouette for sure.
> 
> although if you like them, then buy them.


Got it. I have to admit I just learned what "quarters" are, so thanks for furthering my knowledge. That helps me understand what I'm looking at.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Oldsarge

And now for some *very* serious tweed . . .


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## Adriel Rowley

Look what came just now! Mailed out on Friday from Massachusetts.

So excited just threw it on over the clothes already wearing.

The lining is irredent reminding me of a fig beetle though not quite as bright. Have not seen this except my 1930 top coat.

Nice rough hand and feels a little thicker than Harris. The colors look better in person.









Edit:
It was strait in the preview... hopefully get a new cellular cable so can use my laptop instead where don't have this issue (had it before).


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## Flanderian

Look at link below to enjoy many similar images at the original source -

https://tweedlandthegentlemansclub.blogspot.com/2016/04/tweed-more-tweed.html


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## Oldsarge

A safari jacket for some coming Ice Age . . .










And yes, it's tweed.


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## paxonus

How about a Harrington in Harris tweed?


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## Clintotron

Flanderian said:


> Look at link below to enjoy many similar images at the original source -
> 
> https://tweedlandthegentlemansclub.blogspot.com/2016/04/tweed-more-tweed.html


Well, I think you've just drummed up more business for @TweedyDon. From me, at the very least.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## FLMike

Adriel Rowley said:


> View attachment 26308


I realize I'm stating the obvious when I say the sleeves are way too short. Hopefully there's enough extra fabric underneath to let them out the 3 inches or so that they need.


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## TweedyDon

Did someone mention tweed? 

Because I now have a new website in which I can showcase in an easy-to-browse manner all of the items I have posted on the Thrift Exchange--including dozens of beautiful tweeds! 

www.waterhollowtweed.com

Despite the .com ending this still isn't commercial, with prices just the same as on the Exchange--and offers by email VERY welcome!


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## Oldsarge

Another of those four pocket sports coats.


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## Flanderian




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## Fading Fast

⇧ outstanding pair to trousers and with a button fly!


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## Flanderian

Jimmy -


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## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Jimmy -


That is an awesome suit.


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## Clintotron

Tweeds via @TweedyDon.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## eagle2250

^^Great threads (referring to the clothes, not the method of conveyance).....
and even better looking company! Thanks for this brief look into your life.


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## TweedyDon

OUTSTANDING pictures, Clintotron!


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## Clintotron

TweedyDon said:


> OUTSTANDING pictures, Clintotron!


I'll pass the word along to my mom (photographer and co-creator) haha!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Fading Fast

Clintotron, this shot - your outfit, you with (I'm guessing) your son and the setting - is better looking than a Ralph Lauren ad as it has more soul and naturalness to it (the other pic is pretty fantastic too):








Have to note that incredible Fair Isle as well.


----------



## Clintotron

Fading Fast said:


> Clintotron, this shot - your outfit, you with (I'm guessing) your son and the setting - is better looking than a Ralph Lauren ad as it has more soul and naturalness to it (the other pic is pretty fantastic too):
> View attachment 26791
> 
> Have to note that incredible Fair Isle as well.


That's my oldest son in the photo with me and my youngest in the hayride photo with me and my dad. Thank you all for the kind comments.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## TweedyDon

"Have to note that incredible Fair Isle as well."

I recognise the Fair Isle, too!


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## Flanderian

Clintotron said:


> Tweeds via @TweedyDon.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Great tweed, and a couple of fine young gentlemen!


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## Flanderian




----------



## eagle2250

^^LOL!
Always a fan of your postings, but I'm not sure that suit is a good advertisement for wearing more tweed. Perhaps as a spoort jacket, but the suit is too much.


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## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> ^^LOL!
> Always a fan of your postings, but I'm not sure that suit is a good advertisement for wearing more tweed. Perhaps as a spoort jacket, but the suit is too much.


Based on the hairstyles and other clothes, I'm guessing early '70s - with a few exceptions, almost nothing looked good in the '70s, apparently, even fashionable tweed.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> ^^LOL!
> Always a fan of your postings, but I'm not sure that suit is a good advertisement for wearing more tweed. Perhaps as a spoort jacket, but the suit is too much.





Fading Fast said:


> Based on the hairstyles and other clothes, I'm guessing early '70s - with a few exceptions, almost nothing looked good in the '70s, apparently, even fashionable tweed.


Indeed, it's the '70's, a decade which shall live forever in sartorial infamy! 

Edit: Looks as if it might be what is sometimes referred to as a horse blanket plaid.

Guess the horse had better taste. :icon_scratch:


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## paxonus

The 70's did give us Tommy Nutter and Edward Sexton, so it wasn't all bad.


----------



## never behind

I bought a new tweed jacket. :happy;










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Flanderian

never behind said:


> I bought a new tweed jacket. :happy;
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


*Beautiful* tweed!! :happy:


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## eagle2250

^^
And given the weave and the interplay of the hues woven into the jacket, it should prove to be a very versatile garment/see a lot of wear time!


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## Oldsarge

Nice. One could dress it up with a solid color shirt or down with a turtleneck and do anything between. Versatility maximized.


----------



## Flanderian

Shirt and tie, highly fashionable, severely suboptimal. 
Tweed suit, gorgeous! :happy:


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## Oldsarge

This looks totally wrong to me. Up-fashion violet striped shirt and pindot tie with a country tweed suit? No. Absolutely not. A truly dystopian combination, IMO. Tattersall is required in a case like this, with a necktie in a sporting print or a simple knit.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> This looks totally wrong to me. Up-fashion violet striped shirt and pindot tie with a country tweed suit? No. Absolutely not. A truly dystopian combination, IMO. Tattersall is required in a case like this, with a necktie in a sporting print or a simple knit.


Afraid I must agree, a wasted opportunity, and tattersall would be wonderful.

Quite similar to the suit being used as a base for some ensembles this retailer once composed for sale. Much of it would still look good (Better than?) today.


----------



## eagle2250

LOL. I hear the mob in the original Frankenstein movie (you know, the old black and white edition), assembling to assault the castle and bring the unsightly monster to a quick and untimely end! ....and so it should be.


----------



## never behind

Oldsarge said:


> Nice. One could dress it up with a solid color shirt or down with a turtleneck and do anything between. Versatility maximized.


I figured I can't screw this one up, even as bad as I am pairing items. If I could hijack the thread, does the jacket work with these flannels? I like these trousers but am struggling with a jacket (other than a navy blazer).

















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Flanderian

never behind said:


> I figured I can't screw this one up, even as bad as I am pairing items. If I could hijack the thread, does the jacket work with these flannels? I like these trousers but am struggling with a jacket (other than a navy blazer).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I love both, but no, not for me.

Patterned trousers only work for me with plain or very different and discreetly patterned jackets. And even though the trousers aren't too bold, just the slight overcheck on the herringbone creates dissonance for me. Absent that, I'd do it, though some might still complain.


----------



## 16412

The trouser cloth might work with as a vest. But, trousers would be complicated. Shirt, maybe vest, hat, shoes, etc. might be able to pull it off.


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## Oldsarge

Now THIS is a properly worn tweed suit!


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## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Now THIS is a properly worn tweed suit!
> 
> View attachment 26934


:happy: :happy: :happy:

I like it very well! - _Geezers get to wear as many colors and patterns as they wish, happy only that they can still dress themselves, and have not yet soiled their trousers! _


----------



## Flanderian

The Loch Ness Monster - Adrian Shine.


----------



## Oldsarge

Personally, I'd want a hat. But then, he has a lot more hair than I do.


----------



## Flanderian

Is it tweed, or is it cashmere?
Yes!!! :happy:


----------



## Oldsarge

And it's lovely!


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> Personally, I'd want a hat. But then, he has a lot more hair than I do.


He has a lot more hair than everyone does.


----------



## Flanderian

Needs a PS, but otherwise - :happy:


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## Oldsarge

I'd get one that corresponded to his shirt. The contrast would be sharp.


----------



## ran23

Back from a luncheon, friend turning 90. The ladies there wore the nice tweeds today, down in the 30's at lunch.


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## Flanderian

Flanderian said:


> Needs a PS, but otherwise - :happy:
> 
> View attachment 27069


I'd want a lurid paisley!

Gotta fuzz it up.


----------



## Oldsarge

Or something dominating, like your family arms, exclusively printed by Drake.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> I'd get one that corresponded to his shirt. The contrast would be sharp.





Flanderian said:


> I'd want a lurid paisley!
> 
> Gotta fuzz it up.


We could try one of these -



















Or something unrelated -










Or just a big-a** 'ol tartan!


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## Oldsarge

I like the map! The black and white against the reserved palette gives a feeling of austere power, like you _know_ he owns the land you're trespassing on.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> I like the map! The black and white against the reserved palette gives a feeling of austere power, like you _know_ he owns the land you're trespassing on.


I like it too, but I can't do "austere power." 
I only do silly! :happy:


----------



## Flanderian

A few more -


----------



## momsdoc

Some new tweed.

A NOS 2015 BB mainline 3/2 Sack coat found on the discard rack at the outlets for 90% off.










A JAB NOS 2012 gathering dust in the storeroom for $50, as the manager is a friend from an old private menswear store.










PC Harris Tweed from this early fall.










All need to go in for cuffs.


----------



## Flanderian

momsdoc said:


> Some new tweed.
> 
> A NOS 2015 BB mainline 3/2 Sack coat found on the discard rack at the outlets for 90% off.
> 
> View attachment 27079
> 
> 
> A JAB NOS 2012 gathering dust in the storeroom for $50, as the manager is a friend from an old private menswear store.
> 
> View attachment 27081
> 
> 
> PC Harris Tweed from this early fall.
> 
> View attachment 27080
> 
> 
> All need to go in for cuffs.


Nice tweed!

Like the bottom one particularly.


----------



## Clintotron

Flanderian said:


> Nice tweed!
> 
> Like the bottom one particularly.


Agreed. That bottom one is something I'd wear with great pride.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## never behind

> PC Harris Tweed from this early fall.
> 
> View attachment 27080


How do you find the fit on PC jacket compared to your normal size? Is that the Mist Blue? Looks great.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## momsdoc

When I’m at my usual weight of 156 Lbs which I should be in 3 weeks (5 to go), I’m a 38 or 40 depending on the cut and manufacturer. 

I purchase PC waistcoats, Poplin, and chino suits in a 38S. The tweeds are 40S as I almost always am wearing a waistcoat or thin Merino V neck/crew neck sweater underneath. I can make do with a heavier sweater but I like some room underneath.

The Mist Blue 3 button Harris Tweed above is a 40S. I’m wearing an OCBD and bulky sweater so it is on the snug side. In 5 Lbs it will be be perfect. I purchase the Short because of the faux or in case of Chino/Poplin, real working cuff buttons. I’m afraid to try and remove the stitching. I optimally need a 23 5/8 inch sleeve and 38S Poplin, and 40S tweed are 24 inches. So I can shorten them a 1/4 inch and still show some cuff without the cuff buttons getting too close to the edge and looking odd. The Regular has a 25 inch sleeve, too long to do this. The 40S tweed’s back length (from the bottom of the collar) of 28.5 inches is just shy of my ideal of 29 inches, the 38S Poplin and chino run longer at 29 inches. Since I have a 29 inch inseam and therefore short legs for my height (5’ 9.5”), a 40R tweed would be on the long side anyway.

18 1/4 inch shoulderson the 40S tweed are perfect for me. 18 1/8 inches on the 38S cottons.

And last but not least, the PC shorts as well as the new BB Madison shorts hit my natural waist right on. In the old BB I had to wear the Fitzgerald to get that, and the lapels were a tad narrower than the new Madison which fits me like it was made for me in 40S. 

I guess I’m lucky, I couldn’t expect better from bespoke. Then again, I adjust my body weight to fit these RTW jackets. 7lbs up and I start dieting to lose 9. That’s why I gave away all my “fat” clothes 6 years ago when I lost 68 lbs. NEVER GOING BACK!


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Odd the forum no longer sends notifications, timed at the same time took a break after a member started ignoring me (apparently the thank you thread didn't go well), plus, dealing with family dramas and a project.



FLMike said:


> I realize I'm stating the obvious when I say the sleeves are way too short. Hopefully there's enough extra fabric underneath to let them out the 3 inches or so that they need.


I know the sleeves are an inch or two too short, just don't care right now as rather wear it then with all the family problems get way laid and not get finished. I am more about function then form.

Why else do you don't like it?

Myself been having fun finding what colors work, was stunned how a gold made it pop.

Oh and catching up on this thread, some amazing tweeds!


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## Flanderian




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## krock

^^


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 27146


...a good looking Tweed, for sure, but just looking at it made me break out into a sweat! LOL.


----------



## Oldsarge

I suspect that in Harmony, FL you'd only get a week or so's wear each year. However, in the PNW . . .


----------



## Peak and Pine

momsdoc said:


> When I'm at my usual weight of 156 Lbs which I should be in 3 weeks (5 to go), I'm a 38 or 40 depending on the cut and manufacturer.
> 
> I purchase PC waistcoats, Poplin, and chino suits in a 38S. The tweeds are 40S as I almost always am wearing a waistcoat or thin Merino V neck/crew neck sweater underneath. I can make do with a heavier sweater but I like some room underneath.
> 
> The Mist Blue 3 button Harris Tweed above is a 40S. I'm wearing an OCBD and bulky sweater so it is on the snug side. In 5 Lbs it will be be perfect. I purchase the Short because of the faux or in case of Chino/Poplin, real working cuff buttons. I'm afraid to try and remove the stitching. I optimally need a 23 5/8 inch sleeve and 38S Poplin, and 40S tweed are 24 inches. So I can shorten them a 1/4 inch and still show some cuff without the cuff buttons getting too close to the edge and looking odd. The Regular has a 25 inch sleeve, too long to do this. The 40S tweed's back length (from the bottom of the collar) of 28.5 inches is just shy of my ideal of 29 inches, the 38S Poplin and chino run longer at 29 inches. Since I have a 29 inch inseam and therefore short legs for my height (5' 9.5"), a 40R tweed would be on the long side anyway.
> 
> 18 1/4 inch shoulderson the 40S tweed are perfect for me. 18 1/8 inches on the 38S cottons.
> 
> And last but not least, the PC shorts as well as the new BB Madison shorts hit my natural waist right on. In the old BB I had to wear the Fitzgerald to get that, and the lapels were a tad narrower than the new Madison which fits me like it was made for me in 40S.
> 
> I guess I'm lucky, I couldn't expect better from bespoke. Then again, I adjust my body weight to fit these RTW jackets. 7lbs up and I start dieting to lose 9. That's why I gave away all my "fat" clothes 6 years ago when I lost 68 lbs. NEVER GOING BACK!


Am not the fan of the bottom pictured jacket that others are. And a little too much math in the quoted post. With dress clothing measurements play second fiddle to looks and the jacket appears tight in the shoulders, short in the length and a color, Spring-ish, that seems incompatible with heavy tweed. When you wear stuff underneath be aware that it hikes the jacket up some, so a mirror would seem to be the final arbiter rather than a measuring tape. Congrats though on losing 68 lbs, the exact weight of 10 cats (since my single, now departed one, weighed 6.8 lbs.
-----------------------------------
The latest posting of Flanderian, just above, is superb. Despite the elephant ear lapels


----------



## Oldsarge

Some vintage . . .


----------



## Clintotron

Oldsarge said:


> Some vintage . . .
> 
> View attachment 27165


I'd LOVE to have the 2nd and 3rd from the right. My goodness.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## 16412

The third back- like that cloth.


----------



## momsdoc

Peak and Pine said:


> Am not the fan of the bottom pictured jacket that others are. And a little too much math in the quoted post. With dress clothing measurements play second fiddle to looks and the jacket appears tight in the shoulders, short in the length and a color, Spring-ish, that seems incompatible with heavy tweed. When you wear stuff underneath be aware that it hikes the jacket up some, so a mirror would seem to be the final arbiter rather than a measuring tape. Congrats though on losing 68 lbs, the exact weight of 10 cats (since my single, now departed one, weighed 6.8 lbs.
> -----------------------------------
> The latest posting of Flanderian, just above, is superb. Despite the elephant ear lapels


The Peter Christian jacket you refer to is definitely on the shorter side by 1/2. It's appearing right and is riding higher due to the thick sweater I am wearing. I had that on when I took the pics and would not be wearing it under that jacket. I would be sporting a thinner layer of either a waist coat, merino sweater or just the shirt and tie. In those situations the jacket fits well and hangs a bit lower. Kind of like letting out the waist an inch


----------



## Flanderian

Black and white, but read all over! 

Gary's double barreled sport suit -


----------



## 215339

momsdoc said:


> Some new tweed.
> 
> A NOS 2015 BB mainline 3/2 Sack coat found on the discard rack at the outlets for 90% off.
> 
> View attachment 27079
> 
> 
> A JAB NOS 2012 gathering dust in the storeroom for $50, as the manager is a friend from an old private menswear store.
> 
> View attachment 27081
> 
> 
> PC Harris Tweed from this early fall.
> 
> View attachment 27080
> 
> 
> All need to go in for cuffs.


The PC is cut much better than they make it look on the website. On there, it looks like a box with overlapping quarters.


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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge

Donegal and camelhair.


----------



## Clintotron

Oldsarge said:


> Donegal and camelhair.
> 
> View attachment 27214


While I'm usually an opponent of solid + (almost) solid, the slight donegal flecking and coarser texture contrast enough with the camelhair to appease my eccentric taste.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## 16412

That is nice, Sarge. The shirt is nuetral and the tie, vest and pocket square contribute, pulling out the gold color in the coat like gold flakes against the dark color of the coat. It looks gold color on my screen.


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## Oldsarge

It makes me want a green Donegal jacket.


----------



## Oldsarge

Some tweed for the ladies.


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## Flanderian

Tick weave tweed -


----------



## krock

^^
Looks great as a DB peak lapel. Totally want one


----------



## Oldsarge

I can't resist!


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## never behind

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 27286
> 
> 
> I can't resist!


Is the one on the right wearing a Barbour (Bedale)?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Oldsarge

Sure looks like it, doesn't it?


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## Flanderian

Burberrys: remember when!?


----------



## never behind

Oldsarge said:


> Sure looks like it, doesn't it?


I've officially spent too much time looking at clothes. I can recognize specific items. Ha. I've come a long way. :celebrate:

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Oldsarge

I think this one is available from O'Connell's, if anyone is interested.


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## Oldsarge

I believe someone commented favorably on DB tweed?


----------



## 16412

Looks nice.


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## Flanderian

Nice!


----------



## eagle2250

^^
Very handsome tweeds, for sure, but looking at the first photo in the post above, quite literally makes me itch all over! LOL.


----------



## never behind

The first picture - is he wearing a really short sweater or did he tuck it in? It looks odd. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Fading Fast

⇧ My guess, tucked in. In the '30s and '40s, they actually cut some sweaters and vests, not quite, but nearly, that short for wearing with suits, but I doubt that's what's going on above. Some pics from the '30s/'40s ⇩

















Love the shoulders on the second jacket.


----------



## Flanderian

never behind said:


> The first picture - is he wearing a really short sweater or did he tuck it in? It looks odd.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I can't really tell if it's tucked in. But as FF below states, sweaters were once worn significantly shorter, and that may be the case. Or he may just have done what I always do, which is to blouse the sweater to the length I wish.

But I suspect a large part of the reason it may look shorter is the very long trouser rise, and the sweater being worn to meet that rise by whatever means. Very different from current fashion.



Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ My guess, tucked in. In the '30s and '40s, they actually cut some sweaters and vests, not quite, but nearly, that short for wearing with suits, but I doubt that's what's going on above. Some pics from the '30s/'40s ⇩
> 
> View attachment 27532
> View attachment 27533
> 
> 
> Love the shoulders on the second jacket.


These are great photos! Thanks! And it also makes clear in addition to being made shorter, they were also typically worn snugger.


----------



## Oldsarge

The first one I encountered on Tumblr and didn't repost it because I wasn't pleased with how generously the trousers were cut. Just my personal taste, because I'm baggy enough without any help! The second, I like a lot.


----------



## derum

never behind said:


> The first picture - is he wearing a really short sweater or did he tuck it in? It looks odd.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's not tucked in, if you zoom in you can see the rib. You can still buy fair isle pullovers in that length.


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## ran23

Funny, today I was jumping back and forth between a tie or Merino turtleneck with Tweed. Temps kept climbing. white Uniqlo Polo with BD.


----------



## Mr. B. Scott Robinson

Speaking of tweed.....I still consider Stewart Christie to be the mother ship in Scotland. 

During my recent trip to Edinburgh, I dropped into Stewart Christie to have a look see. My last visit was in September 2015. 

Much remains unchanged from the old Stewart Christie. The shop fixtures are the same and even the woefully dated lighting system, soon to be replaced I was assured, was still in place.

The standard quality of the goods on offer remain high and I purchased a flat cap, two tweed waist coats and a pair of shooting socks spending about $400. In the back room, there were two sale racks with various shooting waistcoats, tweed jackets and winter coats displayed at significant discount. I fell in love with a tweed Crombie coat, but at $700 I could not pull the trigger given that I will reside in tropical climes for the next 5 years. 

The staff kept a respectful distance and allowed me to poke around without being obsequious, yet were helpful when I required assistance. It is such a small shop, it is hard not to be noticed and it can become crowded with only 4-5 customers present. 

For those concerned that the recent change of ownership might change the tone of this 200 year old institution, I did not get that feeling at all. Well worth a stop when visiting Auld Reekie. 

Cheers, 

BSR


----------



## Mr. B. Scott Robinson

My new lid, courtesy of Stewart Christie. My previous one blew off my head, over the North Bridge railing, and onto the train tracks below after the Hogmanay parade.

Cheers,

BSR


----------



## Flanderian

Mr. B. Scott Robinson said:


> My new lid, courtesy of Stewart Christie. My previous one blew off my head, over the North Bridge railing, and onto the train tracks below after the Hogmanay parade.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> BSR
> 
> View attachment 27632


Very nice!


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## Flanderian




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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge




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## mreams99

I liked the pairing of this Orvis tweed with my Brooks Brothers camel hair coat.


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## Clintotron

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 27729


My word...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Adriel Rowley




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## Oldsarge

Man, your arms are even longer than mine. Hard to get a good fit, isn't it?


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> Man, your arms are even longer than mine. Hard to get a good fit, isn't it?


I thought would get critiqued on picking a gold pullover (there is gold in the tweed). 

Yes, if I don't go long, though some longs are too long in the sleeve. Honestly, I loved the tweed the moment I unpacked and couldn't wait while I adjusted the sleeves, figured do that in the Summer.

I am about 6'-2", wear a 31" long coat, with 26" sleeves IIRC (accidentally left my notebook at home as was using it to draft the trouser pattern). Part of the reason wanted to tailor my own coats as can size them to me.


----------



## Oldsarge

It's tough. When I was young (we shrink with age) I was 6' tall but fingertip to fingertip, I still measure 6' 2". And now I'm only 5' 10"! Going through life as a gibbon is a little weird. Fortunately, I can afford MTM these days. Years ago, I just didn't wear sport coats or suits very much. It's not hard to buy 17 1/2 x 36 shirts but coats have always been a problem.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> It's tough. When I was young (we shrink with age) I was 6' tall but fingertip to fingertip, I still measure 6' 2". And now I'm only 5' 10"! Going through life as a gibbon is a little weird. Fortunately, I can afford MTM these days. Years ago, I just didn't wear sport coats or suits very much. It's not hard to buy 17 1/2 x 36 shirts but coats have always been a problem.


I have seen one grandmother and my Dad shrink with age.

Just for grins measured my finger tip to finger tip and got 6'-0", so I am the inverse of what you were.

When I would purchase a medium, the sleeves were always too short yet a tad too much fabric in the body. Go for a large and I have tons of fabric in the body. A 15 1/2 x 34 shirt was close though not perfect (don't think Nordstrom made anything longer).

Then when I was about 27 and a half, gained two inches of height, so now all my shirts are too short.

I know peoples sizes also change over time. My maternal grandfather is an extreme example. When I tried on his pinks, fit me perfectly, even the 32 inch waist. When I knew him in the '80s and '90s, he was about 375 pounds and if I was to put on his suit I be swimming in fabric.

Opa had the same, his early clothing fits me well, however his later clothing will need alteration (sadly didn't know that and left them behind and fear moth damage as when passed no one went into his closet).

I don't look forward to that part of my life, I am so paranoid about gaining mid life weight I went on a diet this Fall to drop an inch off my waist, only to put it back on drinking too much eggnogg...


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## Oldsarge

Welcome to the club. Now the Holiday's are over and it's time to walk it all back off again.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> Welcome to the club. Now the Holiday's are over and it's time to walk it all back off again.


I don't have fluid in my knees (born that way) so walking more than to the mailbox is painful, standing is worse. Been thinking to replace my helmet and get back to bicycle riding, though now with a SD presents a challenge, however, anything can be overcome. One day in my dreams be out in Texas and have at least access to a horse (sister in law has horses and I learned to ride when about 11 or 12 and hooked since), then more opportunity to wear tweed.


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## Oldsarge

English saddle and tweed? Perfect!


----------



## Adriel Rowley

H


Oldsarge said:


> English saddle and tweed? Perfect!


How about a Spanish saddle?


----------



## Oldsarge

Why not? Grandees wear tweed.


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## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> Why not? Grandees wear tweed.


We Americans prefer to mix and match. 

My understanding of English is more about fast riding and I prefer a long trail ride. I never ridden English, only Western. That's why my Sister and I separated, she wanted to do arena and found too dull, I need open space and variety. The most fun I had was bobbing and weaving at a fast trot through smoke trees (and if you don't know they have nasty thorns) and riding over a rocky mountain (sure built trust in the horse). Doubt do the latter in an English as with Western you sit in the saddle rather than on, but what do I know?


----------



## Clintotron

Adriel Rowley said:


> I thought would get critiqued on picking a gold pullover (there is gold in the tweed).
> 
> Yes, if I don't go long, though some longs are too long in the sleeve. Honestly, I loved the tweed the moment I unpacked and couldn't wait while I adjusted the sleeves, figured do that in the Summer.
> 
> I am about 6'-2", wear a 31" long coat, with 26" sleeves IIRC (accidentally left my notebook at home as was using it to draft the trouser pattern). Part of the reason wanted to tailor my own coats as can size them to me.


I hear ya. At 6'4" my 44-chested body requires a 27" sleeve, which, itself, is unremarkable. However, my waist is 34" and my inseam 38". It's impossible to find OTR pants even when bought as suit separates.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Clintotron said:


> I hear ya. At 6'4" my 44-chested body requires a 27" sleeve, which, itself, is unremarkable. However, my waist is 34" and my inseam 38". It's impossible to find OTR pants even when bought as suit separates.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


When in High School, most of the males were over six foot, and a good majority of those 6'-4" and over, so felt like a dwarf at 5'-11 1/2". Wanted to be tall, then had my growth spurt and felt sorry for those over, as bad enough being 6'-2".

I can imagine pants be a real challenge, especially dress as that mean about a 50 inch outseam.

I know some women have it not easy either. My Oma had a hard time fitting as unusually long waisted (meaning the distance between hips and waist usually tall). She always wore skirts with strait sides, never saw her in a dress.


----------



## Clintotron

Adriel Rowley said:


> When in High School, most of the males were over six foot, and a good majority of those 6'-4" and over, so felt like a dwarf at 5'-11 1/2". Wanted to be tall, then had my growth spurt and felt sorry for those over, as bad enough being 6'-2".
> 
> I can imagine pants be a real challenge, especially dress as that mean about a 50 inch outseam.
> 
> I know some women have it not easy either. My Oma had a hard time fitting as unusually long waisted (meaning the distance between hips and waist usually tall). She always wore skirts with strait sides, never saw her in a dress.


I REALLY wanted a Peter Christian 3-piece tweed suit, but their longest pant offering is 34".

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## eagle2250

Adriel Rowley said:


> I thought would get critiqued on picking a gold pullover (there is gold in the tweed).
> 
> Yes, if I don't go long, though some longs are too long in the sleeve. Honestly, I loved the tweed the moment I unpacked and couldn't wait while I adjusted the sleeves, figured do that in the Summer.
> .............................


Based on the picture in your post #363 above, it appears the sleeves on that jacket are at least 3 to 4 inches too short. From whence will you pull that much additional length? I don't want to sound like a naysayer, but I can't see where you will find that much fabric available to accomplish the task. :icon_scratch: In any event, good luck!


----------



## Mr. B. Scott Robinson

Keep at my friend. You are making excellent progress. It is great to watch you develop.

Cheers,

BSR


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Clintotron said:


> I REALLY wanted a Peter Christian 3-piece tweed suit, but their longest pant offering is 34".
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


And no option to have MTM? What a bummer, one of my grail suits is a three piece tweed.



eagle2250 said:


> Based on the picture in your post #363 above, it appears the sleeves on that jacket are at least 3 to 4 inches too short. From whence will you pull that much additional length? I don't want to sound like a naysayer, but I can't see where you will find that much fabric available to accomplish the task. :icon_scratch: In any event, good luck!


The sleeves also tend to ride up making it worse. It is not hard to open the sleeve lining and have a look. If I can't drop, then so be it.

I am thinking part of the issue is the sleeve holes are a bit too high. I know hand sewn, so am leery of touching, though might also help the sleeve pulling?

In the end, if a bit short, most wouldn't know anyway, right?



Mr. B. Scott Robinson said:


> Keep at my friend. You are making excellent progress. It is great to watch you develop.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> BSR


Thank you Mr. Scott. I think the biggest contributor is to accept I am eccentric and to go with it. If I want to wear a gold pullover with a blue shirt, then go with grey pants so not adding more color, and enjoy it.

Also, I find the tweeds fit my archetype best. I regret purchasing the worsted suit, been better served with a tweed, even if too casual for some funerals and weddings.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ I'm guessing that overcoat could stop a small caliber bullet fired from 20 paces.


----------



## Oldsarge

Well, it would depend on the powder charge but, yeah, it might.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

The overcoat has amazing drape. Also the sleeve setting is interesting, doesn't quite look like a raglan sleeve?

I think that would finally keep me warm.


----------



## Oldsarge

Ladytweed


----------



## Oldsarge

A lovely Donegal.


----------



## momsdoc

Oldsarge said:


> Ladytweed
> 
> View attachment 27916


Why does it seem that there is nothing as sexy as a woman in tweed?

Or is it that all the photos of women in tweed contain hot women?


----------



## Oldsarge

I think we've been programmed to get excited over aristocratic British women. Of course, if someone began photographing Italian women in tweed . . .


----------



## Clintotron

Oldsarge said:


> I think we've been programmed to get excited over aristocratic British women. Of course, if someone began photographing Italian women in tweed . . .


Or Brazilian... 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> I think we've been programmed to get excited over aristocratic British women. Of course, if someone began photographing Italian women in tweed . . .


For some reason attracted to redhead women more than any other, for some reason.  Even their personality, had a person who thought was my friend, loved their personality, and come to find out before turned silver and white, were a redhead.


----------



## Fading Fast

Adriel Rowley said:


> For some reason attracted to redhead women more than any other, for some reason.  Even their personality, had a person who thought was my friend, loved their personality, and come to find out before turned silver and white, were a redhead.


Mr. Bruce Springsteen had something to say about red-headed women.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> Mr. Bruce Springsteen had something to say about red-headed women.


I regret looking... Wow, scarred for life.  Why is sexual intercourse so pervasive and open in this contemporary society? Belongs behind closed doors with a married couple. Guess why I love tweed: expression of the proper and dignified old English.


----------



## Oldsarge

I'm sorry but if you look into the lives of the English aristocracy, you will find reams of data showing that their behavior was so far from 'proper' you couldn't see it with a telescope. But they did it well-dressed, until they were undressed.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> I'm sorry but if you look into the lives of the English aristocracy, you will find reams of data showing that their behavior was so far from 'proper' you couldn't see it with a telescope. But they did it well-dressed, until they were undressed.


I was referring to the image (not the actual) and keeping it private. Just trying to be funny and keep on topic with tweed. 

I had no opportunity this morning to wear tweed, my senior dog not acting right and worried after spending four to five hours away from home, she had left.


----------



## Oldsarge

The overall color palette is a little somber but what a coat!


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 27938
> 
> 
> The overall color palette is a little somber but what a coat!


That is an interesting check.

How about a light to medium blue tie to brighten it up?


----------



## Oldsarge

That would certainly help.


----------



## Flanderian

B&Tailor -


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> B&Tailor -
> 
> View attachment 27941


Now, deciding on the pocket square . . .


----------



## Clintotron

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Flanderian

Clintotron said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Nice!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## momsdoc

I just brough this soft baby home......Unstructured, unlined, no shoulder padding, soft heather light navy tweed. From BB. Regent fit.










While there I picked these guys up. I figured they're worth a try, I've only worn bow ties with a tux.


----------



## Flanderian

momsdoc said:


> I just brough this soft baby home......Unstructured, unlined, no shoulder padding, soft heather light navy tweed. From BB. Regent fit.
> 
> View attachment 27951
> 
> 
> While there I picked these guys up. I figured they're worth a try, I've only worn bow ties with a tux.
> 
> View attachment 27952


That's a great jacket!

:beer:


----------



## Oldsarge

momsdoc said:


> I just brough this soft baby home......Unstructured, unlined, no shoulder padding, soft heather light navy tweed. From BB. Regent fit.
> 
> View attachment 27951
> 
> 
> While there I picked these guys up. I figured they're worth a try, I've only worn bow ties with a tux.
> 
> View attachment 27952


Good choices in bows.


----------



## Clintotron

Flanderian said:


> Nice!


It's for sale AND in my size. Got some logistics to figure out, but it surely shall be mine.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Flanderian

An oldie but a goody! Revealing the power of a well chosen accessory.


----------



## Flanderian

Cleav doing well by the genre -


----------



## Oldsarge

Cashmere tweed, no less!


----------



## Peak and Pine

Clintotron said:


>


Does that jacket fly south for the winter?
I can see those lapels flappin' away in the sky come Fall.
Nice plaid tho.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 28088
> 
> 
> Cashmere tweed, no less!


An odd ball, as tweed is to be rough wearing yet... Still would purchase and wear if was rich. Especially the burgundy with brown.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 28136


I've never seen a tweed waiter's jacket before!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> I've never seen a tweed waiter's jacket before!


I didn't even get past the matching tweed bowtie.


----------



## Clintotron

Fading Fast said:


> I didn't even get past the matching tweed bowtie.


It's a shame what can be done with a nice fabric.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Oldsarge

There's no excusing some men's 'taste'. I'm glad y'all found it instructive.:beer:


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> There's no excusing some men's 'taste'. I'm glad y'all found it instructive.:beer:


Nice recover. Chortle.
Actually there is excusing some men's taste. Me for example. So excuse me please, for I like that outfit a lot. Smoking jacket length, bow tie and all.


----------



## 16412

It certainly better than the short coats of today.
The proportions are in the right place to make a manly figure instead of a child's. If you want short this is one way to do it that's proper in so many ways. Visual is a major proper. The fashion designers really blew it with the short coats they came up with for a number of years. There is nothing wrong with a good change.


----------



## Flanderian

WA said:


> It certainly better than the short coats of today.
> The proportions are in the right place to make a manly figure instead of a child's. If you want short this is one way to do it that's proper in so many ways. Visual is a major proper. The fashion designers really blew it with the short coats they came up with for a number of years. There is nothing wrong with a good change.


:icon_scratch: This one barely reaches the top of his pocket!?


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Flanderian said:


> :icon_scratch: This one barely reaches the top of his pocket!?


I think an illusion caused by the angles, as the left side almost comes to the crotch.


----------



## derum

Found this gem online.

*"Bespoke Harris Tweed Boxer Shorts.*
I recently commissioned, from my tailor, a brace of Harris tweed boxer shorts in a subtle herringbone pattern. I am quite pleased with them so far. Note the 2" cuffs. The highly breathable performance tweed keeps me cool and dry, thanks to its unique moisture-wicking cap and fiber structure. The cut is designed to maximize movement and access, whilst minimizing bunching. The seamless front eliminates the risk of torsion. Tweed boxer shorts, I find, are a delightful blend of performance, comfort, and traditional style







"

Oh I wish it were true.........


----------



## Flanderian

derum said:


> Found this gem online.
> 
> *"Bespoke Harris Tweed Boxer Shorts.*
> I recently commissioned, from my tailor, a brace of Harris tweed boxer shorts in a subtle herringbone pattern. I am quite pleased with them so far. Note the 2" cuffs. The highly breathable performance tweed keeps me cool and dry, thanks to its unique moisture-wicking cap and fiber structure. The cut is designed to maximize movement and access, whilst minimizing bunching. The seamless front eliminates the risk of torsion. Tweed boxer shorts, I find, are a delightful blend of performance, comfort, and traditional style
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "
> 
> Oh I wish it were true.........


Yup, that torsion is a *KILLER!!! *


----------



## StephenRG

:laughing:


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 28159


Looks like the sleeves are too tight?

I like the fabric.


----------



## Oldsarge

I think the coat is actually about a size too small for the model but that's what the advertisers are doing now.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> I think the coat is actually about a size too small for the model but that's what the advertisers are doing now.


Even commercial patterns! The body fit fine, though the sleeves were child's size!  I don't even know how the model got into it. I don't get this trend of wearing clothes couple or more sizes too small.


----------



## Oldsarge

I call it kiddywear. It's like your mother is trying to get another year's wear out of an outfit you've totally outgrown. Maybe it's supposed to be adorable or something.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 28166


Add in a pair of matching pants and that sport coat would become a suit that has Upr Crust written all over it.


----------



## Oldsarge

It looks like, just possibly, there is a matching vest underneath. It could already _be_ a suit in the countryside manner.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Add in a pair of matching pants and that sport coat would become a suit that has Upr Crust written all over it.





Oldsarge said:


> It looks like, just possibly, there is a matching vest underneath. It could already _be_ a suit in the countryside manner.


----------



## Oldsarge

I was thinking of the matching-jacket-and-waistcoat-different-trousers kind.


----------



## paxonus

Flanderian said:


>


One of the appraisers on Antiques Roadshow.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

paxonus said:


> One of the appraisers on Antiques Roadshow.


Thought I recognized him from the past. Always wearing those checked and plaid suits.


----------



## Oldsarge

He's the guy who specializes in posters so he would be a welcome addition to the Art Deco thread.


----------



## Flanderian

paxonus said:


> One of the appraisers on Antiques Roadshow.





Adriel Rowley said:


> Thought I recognized him from the past. Always wearing those checked and plaid suits.





Oldsarge said:


> He's the guy who specializes in posters so he would be a welcome addition to the Art Deco thread.


Yes, a truly charming and erudite gentleman! Antiques Road Show is likely my dearest TV habit. I thought I'd been hooked since the '70's, and was chagrined to learn it first aired in 1997. A rare instance where the American version of something is significantly superior to the British original

Mr. Lowry in addition to being the poster appraiser for the show is also President of Swann Auction Galleries and director of their vintage poster department. Certainly a man who fears no tartan!

irate:


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Yes, a truly charming and erudite gentleman! Antiques Road Show is likely my dearest TV habit. I thought I'd been hooked since the '70's, and was chagrined to learn it first aired in 1997. A rare instance where the American version of something is significantly superior to the British original
> 
> Mr. Lowry in addition to being the poster appraiser for the show is also President of Swann Auction Galleries and director of their vintage poster department. Certainly a man who fears no tartan!
> 
> irate:


Indeed, the man fears no Tartan and, sadly, he has no taste! But he genuinely appears to be a nice guy. :icon_scratch:


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## Oldsarge

And now for something more conventional:

And some day I'm going to get one of these four pocket versions!


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> Indeed, the man fears no Tartan and, sadly, he has no taste! But he genuinely appears to be a nice guy. :icon_scratch:


Oh, he has some, but he never lets it interfere with self-advertisement!


----------



## Clintotron

Oldsarge said:


> And now for something more conventional:
> 
> And some day I'm going to get one of these four pocket versions!
> View attachment 28184
> View attachment 28185


That 4-pocket is AMAZING. Dang it. Here go some new "saved search terms"...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## derum

A nice 3 pocket.


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## 16412

The lower pockets would look better if they had two buttons each.


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## Oldsarge

Herringbone.


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## Clintotron

Oldsarge said:


> Herringbone.
> 
> View attachment 28228


That's one BOLD herringbone. I definitely like it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Oldsarge

Yup, too bold for an entire suit but as a casual jacket? Stunning!


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## Clintotron

Oldsarge said:


> Yup, too bold for an entire suit but as a casual jacket? Stunning!


I'd wear the suit. I already stick out like a sore thumb. Why not? Haha

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Oldsarge

Like the seven-foot-tall chap with the orange overcoat?


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## Clintotron

Oldsarge said:


> Like the seven-foot-tall chap with the orange overcoat?


Something like that...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## 16412

Nice! 
Love to have that.


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## Oldsarge

Maybe next autumn . . .


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## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> Yup, too bold for an entire suit but as a casual jacket? Stunning!


You are correct about today's view of bold herringbone suits, but back in the '30s-'50s, many men's suits were bold herringbones as can be seen in this example of Robert Young (yup, a young Doctor Marcus Welby in a film noir) in '47's "Crossfire:"















As somebody who spends way too much time watching old movies, I can say that bold herringbone suits and sport coats were very common in the years I noted above.


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## Oldsarge

1955 BB Tweed 3-piece suit.


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## Moonshae

Oldsarge said:


> 1955 BB Tweed 3-piece suit.


I would wear that!


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## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> You are correct about today's view of bold herringbone suits, but back in the '30s-'50s, many men's suits were bold herringbones as can be seen in this example of Robert Young (yup, a young Doctor Marcus Welby in a film noir) in '47's "Crossfire:"
> View attachment 28238
> View attachment 28239
> 
> As somebody who spends way too much time watching old movies, I can say that bold herringbone suits and sport coats were very common in the years I noted above.





Oldsarge said:


> 1955 BB Tweed 3-piece suit.
> 
> View attachment 28276


Nice stuff!


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## Flanderian




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## Oldsarge




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## Fading Fast

⇧ Heck of an overcoat in the first pic.


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## mreams99

Should I, or shouldn't I?


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## eagle2250

^^
You should, without hesitation! That is a very handsome coat.


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## Oldsarge

A different take.


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## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> A different take.


Other than that I have no idea what is going on with that tied belt or something on the sport coat, I like the sport coat with the duffle coat both the colors and styles work really well together.


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## Adriel Rowley

mreams99 said:


> Should I, or shouldn't I?
> 
> View attachment 28312


Since I am lacking the knowledge, how does that back belt work with the buttons?


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## FLMike

Well, I just purchased my first-ever Harris Tweed garment. It's on the way to me from an eBay seller, so hopefully the fit is as expected, based on the listed measurements. Also hope I get the occasional chance to wear it without overheating.


























Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## mreams99

Adriel Rowley said:


> Since I am lacking the knowledge, how does that back belt work with the buttons?


The buttons are for your suspenders.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

A bit much (a bit more than a bit much) for my wardrobe, but I'm glad it's out there somewhere:








Once you buy in, that vest is really well designed for that suit.


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## Oldsarge

Perhaps if I, too, were seven feet tall . . .


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## ran23

tweed jacket to run errands today, white and blue window pane BB shirt and red knit tie.


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## momsdoc

Fading Fast said:


> A bit much (a bit more than a bit much) for my wardrobe, but I'm glad it's out there somewhere:
> View attachment 28386
> 
> Once you buy in, that vest is really well designed for that suit.


From the valley of the Jolly
Ho, Ho, Ho
Green Giant


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## Oldsarge

Ladytweed


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## mreams99

How much should I extend the sleeves of the overcoat?


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## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> Ladytweed
> View attachment 28553


Her jacket tells us she knows her Tweeds. That look in her eye tells me she knows how to use that riding crop...Oh my!


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## FLMike

I recently posted a pic of my first-ever piece of Harris Tweed. While the sleeves on that one are being lengthened slightly, here is my first tweed of any kind (not Harris). I thought I'd give the J Crew Ludlow a try after FF"s hearty endorsement. I have to admit, I'm not blown away by the quality, but I frankly didn't expect to be (it's J Crew, after all). It's fine for what it is, and the price paid, though.

Excuse the terrible hotel room background.


























Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Peak and Pine

FLMike said:


> ... I'm not blown away by the quality....


Be blown away, it looks really good. Swell fit for OTR. But a needless qualifier because it looks tailored and tailored well.


> Excuse the terrible hotel room background.


No.


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## FLMike

^Thanks! I sized up because they call it a “Slim” fit, and that ended up being the right call. All I had done was shortened the sleeves a bit.


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## Fading Fast

FLMike said:


> I recently posted a pic of my first-ever piece of Harris Tweed. While the sleeves on that one are being lengthened slightly, here is my first tweed of any kind (not Harris). I thought I'd give the J Crew Ludlow a try after FF"s hearty endorsement. I have to admit, I'm not blown away by the quality, but I frankly didn't expect to be (it's J Crew, after all). It's fine for what it is, and the price paid, though.
> 
> Excuse the terrible hotel room background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I hope my past posts on J. Crew's tweed reflected my view that (1) it's great value for the price, but not anywhere near high-end tweed and (2) I like that it's lighter in weight (and unlined) as I can wear it indoors w/ a sweater without boiling over as I often do in my better tweed. I use my several J.Crew tweed jackets (bought for ~ $100-$250 each) as "beater" sport coats and love them for that.

All that said, that one looks very nice on you. I hope you enjoy it.

Love the engine-turned (I think that's what it is called) buckle.


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## Flanderian

Luca can get away with anything and look good! Well, almost anything. Yes, the tweed is lovely, and, yes, a SB peak lapel, one-button with patch pockets is intriguing, but even you, Luca, need to close those quarters a bit more!


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## Fading Fast

⇧ All points taken, but it's hard to pay attention to anything but that insanely gorgeous material.


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## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Don't know what's going on with the tartan thing (is it a scarf), but I love the jacket and vest.


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## FLMike

Fading Fast said:


> I hope my past posts on J. Crew's tweed reflected my view that (1) it's great value for the price, but not anywhere near high-end tweed and (2) I like that it's lighter in weight (and unlined) as I can wear it indoors w/ a sweater without boiling over as I often do in my better tweed. I use my several J.Crew tweed jackets (bought for ~ $100-$250 each) as "beater" sport coats and love them for that.
> 
> All that said, that one looks very nice on you. I hope you enjoy it.
> 
> Love the engine-turned (I think that's what it is called) buckle.


Thank you, and yes, you represented it perfectly. I didn't mean to imply that you oversold the jacket in any way. Compared to the Ben Silver HT I picked up off eBay, I expect to get much more wear out of the Ludlow, given the lighter weight sans lining.


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## 215339

FLMike said:


> I recently posted a pic of my first-ever piece of Harris Tweed. While the sleeves on that one are being lengthened slightly, here is my first tweed of any kind (not Harris). I thought I'd give the J Crew Ludlow a try after FF"s hearty endorsement. I have to admit, I'm not blown away by the quality, but I frankly didn't expect to be (it's J Crew, after all). It's fine for what it is, and the price paid, though.
> 
> Excuse the terrible hotel room background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


details on the shirt/collar?

that's a great roll


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## FLMike

delicious_scent said:


> details on the shirt/collar?
> 
> that's a great roll


It's just a BB must-iron striped pinpoint in Regent fit. I stock up during sales, usually around $40-45/shirt ($69.50 retail).

https://www.brooksbrothers.com/Rege...r=BLUE&contentpos=17&cgid=fitted-dress-shirts


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## 215339

FLMike said:


> It's just a BB must-iron striped pinpoint in Regent fit. I stock up during sales, usually around $40-45/shirt ($69.50 retail).
> 
> https://www.brooksbrothers.com/Regent-Fitted-Dress-Shirt,-Stripe/468Q,default,pd.html?dwvar_468Q_Color=BLUE&contentpos=17&cgid=fitted-dress-shirts


thanks


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## kkollwitz

I retired to Cuenca, Ecuador in 2017. My next-door neighbor is a tailor. I've lost about 20 lbs. from living at 8500' and walking everywhere, so he alters a jacket for me every month or so. The weather is cool year 'round, and last month I finally had him take up my old Hickey-Freeman tweed jacket. I bought it from an estate sale 15-20 years ago. Anyway, he always perks up when I bring over an unusual fabric, and I told him a bit about where tweed comes from, how it's woven, etc. I think I'm the only man in town with a tweed jacket- an exotic fabric in the cool tropics. Nice to check in here and see that in the rest of the world it's still au courant.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## 16412

Is that a1970s coat?
It looks Regal.


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## Clintotron

Of course, @Oldsarge continuously heaping in the wool porn. I'm not mad at you. Not one bit.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Oldsarge

:beer:


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## 215339

Spier & Mackay Rust Polo Coat


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## Oldsarge

More wool porn:


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## Clintotron

Oldsarge said:


> More wool porn:
> 
> View attachment 28628
> View attachment 28629


Maybe this will change SWMBO's mind about me getting a kilt in my family tartan...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ particularly like that tie. Not, um, saying it goes with that shirt, but as a tie, I like it.


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## Flanderian

OK, we'll call it "summer" tweed.  But, gee, the guy looks good!


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## Oldsarge

Hmmm, I wonder if I can pull off a summer coat with a warm vest in our winter. I may have to give it a try. Winter tweed with a vest is too much for our mile PNW climate.


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## Flanderian

Cleave the Impeccable! :happy:










More summer tweed -


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## paxonus

Flanderian said:


> Cleave the Impeccable! :happy:
> 
> View attachment 28741
> 
> 
> More summer tweed -
> 
> View attachment 28742


I particularly like the barrel cuff on the grey jacket and the patch pockets.


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## Flanderian

paxonus said:


> I particularly like the barrel cuff on the grey jacket and the patch pockets.


Working button holes. I've a couple ultra casual jackets with minimal construction in non-specific S - XL sizing where sleeve length is proportional to size. Since the good Lord has blessed me with Tyrannosaurus arms, the sleeves were too long. And as the jackets are unconstructed and unlined, and only worn with casual clothing, I simply unbuttoned them and flipped up the cuffs, rather than attempting to have them altered.

While the jacket pictured is finely cut and made, I think it can be worn somewhat similarly, particularly as it's a summer jacket when many of us wear less clothing. However, if worn as a proper jacket with dress shirt and tie, I'd want to be able to keep the sleeves buttoned.


----------



## paxonus

Flanderian said:


> Working button holes. I've a couple ultra casual jackets with minimal construction in non-specific S - XL sizing where sleeve length is proportional to size. Since the good Lord has blessed me with Tyrannosaurus arms, the sleeves were too long. And as the jackets are unconstructed and unlined, and only worn with casual clothing, I simply unbuttoned them and flipped up the cuffs, rather than attempting to have them altered.
> 
> While the jacket pictured is finely cut and made, I think it can be worn somewhat similarly, particularly as it's a summer jacket when many of us where less clothing. However, if worn as a proper jacket with dress shirt and tie, I'd want to be able to keep the sleeves buttoned.


I thought I detected a seam at the fold indicating a barrel cuff. I have a couple of Teba jackets with a barrel cuff and I quite like them.


----------



## eagle2250

Clintotron said:


> Maybe this will change SWMBO's mind about me getting a kilt in my family tartan...
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


LOL. Been there, done that and I must caution you that my wife's reaction to that question was to remind me that "with my pale white legs, trousers would be a more complimentary option!" Egad...trying to manage SWMBO can be a challenging process.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> LOL. Been there, done that and I must caution you that my wife's reaction to that question was to remind me that "with my pale white legs, trousers would be a more complimentary option!" Egad...trying to manage SWMBO can be a challenging process.


I know how you feel!!


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Summer? Here in Phoenix Valley still in throws of Winter: bellow 60*F and RH above 60 percent. My favorite overcoat I fear will wear out, though know if get another overcoat, the triple digit temperatures will come back.

Did figure out my black cotton rainproof overcoat looks great with the Scottish tweed and allows wearing of brown, breaking the austerity. Thus, when warmer provided relief for the other.

Now what really be ideal for our cold and rainy weather be a tweed overcoat to about mid shin length. Warm and could handle the surprise rain shower.


----------



## FLMike

Flanderian said:


> I know how you feel!!


You did it! After all these years of claiming technological and know-how limitations, I see you finally cracked the code and figured out how to post a picture of yourself! Congrats on the breakthrough....I knew you could do it!!


----------



## Flanderian

FLMike said:


> You did it! After all these years of claiming technological and know-how limitations, I see you finally cracked the code and figured out how to post a picture of yourself! Congrats on the breakthrough....I knew you could do it!!


:lol: Close enough!


----------



## Flanderian

Let me be frank, (Though I'm no Tom, Dick or Harry! ) while this subdued tweed is handsome, it is ill served by pairing it with this particular shirt and tie.

B&Tailor -


----------



## Peak and Pine

Hanger bumps


----------



## Flanderian

Flanderian said:


> Let me be frank, (Though I'm no Tom, Dick or Harry! ) while this subdued tweed is handsome, it is ill served by pairing it with this particular shirt and tie.
> 
> B&Tailor -












Some ties I'd rather pair with this cloth. Among them, i find the texture of Irish Poplin pairs particularly well with this rougher tweed.


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Some ties I'd rather pair with this cloth. Among them, i find the texture of Irish Poplin pairs particularly well with this rougher tweed.


The gun dogs and the thin stripe go especially well.


----------



## Flanderian

Vintage tweed -


----------



## Oldsarge

A bit 'flash' for my taste, especially with the silk kerchief.


----------



## eagle2250

Flashy, yes, but it does have a certain appeal to it!


----------



## Clintotron

eagle2250 said:


> Flashy, yes, but it does have a certain appeal to it!


To quote Ed McMahon, "You are correct, sir."

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Vintage tweed -
> 
> View attachment 28807


In the right period, I'd love it. And while the quality looks outstanding, the only chance I'd have of seeing that today - in a much cheaper version - is at the racetrack where all sorts of odd sport coats and dress trousers show up in the, where I sit, cheap seats.

We haven't (I think) talked about it before, but racetracks are a repository for all sorts of classic attire beat up and abused, but still being worn. For example (one of many I could note), seersucker sport coats with pockets just holding on are a regular summer staple of the modest "milieu" populating the grandstands and track aprons of our dwindling number of racetracks.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> A bit 'flash' for my taste, especially with the silk kerchief.





eagle2250 said:


> Flashy, yes, but it does have a certain appeal to it!





Clintotron said:


> To quote Ed McMahon, "You are correct, sir."
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Yes, viewed in the wrong light it does have a wrong kind of '70's vibe, but it is truly a mighty (Meaty?) tweed. Pea soup green always gets attention, but concerns about a tweed wearing a man may deserve consideration. :icon_scratch:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> In the right period, I'd love it. And while the quality looks outstanding, the only chance I'd have of seeing that today - in a much cheaper version - is at the racetrack where all sorts of odd sport coats and dress trousers show up in the, where I sit, cheap seats.
> 
> We haven't (I think) talked about it before, but racetracks are a repository for all sorts of classic attire beat up and abused, but still being worn. For example (one of many I could note), seersucker sport coats with pockets just holding on are a regular summer staple of the modest "milieu" populating the grandstands and track aprons of our dwindling number of racetracks.


Obviously, I've been hangin' out in the wrong joints! I'd fit right in! Only ever been to a racetrack a few times, all business command appearances in full corporate livery.


----------



## Oldsarge

The one time I was at a race track a horse broke a leg. Don't think I'm likely to ever go back.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Obviously, I've been hangin' out in the wrong joints! I'd fit right in! Only ever been to a racetrack a few times, all business command appearances in full corporate livery.


There are the swells in the clubhouse - on Kentucky Derby day and similar high-profile race days - they're the ones clad in new linen and silk and commingling with the businessmen in, as you said, full corporate livery. Those are pretty good modern day opportunities to Esquire oneself up.

But what I'm talking about is a nondescript Tuesday out at Belmont, with only claiming and small-purse stakes races on the card - that's when the grandstand's and apron's finest wear sport coats, trouser, dress shirts, shoes and ties from, my guess, when these older men were young as many of the items look to be from the '60s - '80s.

Most of the clothes (and men - the gambler's life is not an easy one) show their age, but as a population, they wear more traditional clothes than most today. My guess, that's all gone inside of twenty years, as the younger / middle-aged gamblers have caught the causal-attire bug.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> There are the swells in the clubhouse - on Kentucky Derby day and similar high-profile race days - they're the ones clad in new linen and silk and commingling with the businessmen in, as you said, full corporate livery. Those are pretty good modern day opportunities to Esquire oneself up.
> 
> But what I'm talking about is a nondescript Tuesday out at Belmont, with only claiming and small-purse stakes races on the card - that's when the grandstand's and apron's finest wear sport coats, trouser, dress shirts, shoes and ties from, my guess, when these older men were young as many of the items look to be from the '60s - '80s.
> 
> Most of the clothes (and men - the gambler's life is not an easy one) show their age, but as a population, they wear more traditional clothes than most today. My guess, that's all gone inside of twenty years, as the younger / middle-aged gamblers have caught the causal-attire bug.


Gents with a bit of class, sad to see it pass.


----------



## Flanderian

Tweed and suede, like PB&J! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ that's got to be a 2" cuff (perfect for the gusto of tweed).


----------



## Fading Fast

Oh Yeah!


----------



## Peak and Pine

^^
Yes to your Oh Yeah.

Excepting the picnic basket liner being used as a pocket square. Seasonally incoherent.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ that's got to be a 2" cuff (perfect for the gusto of tweed).


All the efforts of the blogger Cleav -

https://cleav31.tumblr.com/archive



Fading Fast said:


> Oh Yeah!
> View attachment 28829


Gorgeous tweed!


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> ^^
> Yes to your Oh Yeah.
> 
> Excepting the picnic basket liner being used as a pocket square. Seasonally incoherent.


Agreed, annoying mistake.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Agreed, annoying mistake.


:icon_scratch: :icon_scratch: :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> :icon_scratch: :icon_scratch: :icon_scratch:


The pocket square, which looks like a very thin cotton material and has a traditional summer pattern, seems off for the heavy tweed suit.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> The pocket square, which looks like a very thin cotton material and has a traditional summer pattern, seems off for the heavy tweed suit.


Ah, yes, now I see it!

Looks a bit unusual. Don't know if I care for it.

Also just noted the top button of the tailored waistcoat/vest left unbuttoned, one of the latest sprez fads that annoys me. But maybe that's the point.

Leaving the traditional bottom button undone tends to look good, this just looks sloppy. Don't mind it with knit sleeveless cardigans, and will even do it if it promotes better proportion, but this is a net negative in every instance I've seen.

Same aesthetic motivation as -


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## momsdoc

Mismatched hounds tooth is a sartorial,third rail to me. I have sports coats, waistcoats, and trousers in dog tooth. I would never consider combining them, unless they were identical as in a suit.


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ I agree gentlemen - the mismatch patterns are jarring.

⇩ The first outfit is particularly up my alley


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ I agree gentlemen - the mismatch patterns are jarring.
> 
> ⇩ The first outfit is particularly up my alley
> View attachment 28844
> View attachment 28845


Oooooh, yes!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 28835
> View attachment 28836





Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ I agree gentlemen - the mismatch patterns are jarring.
> 
> ⇩ The first outfit is particularly up my alley
> View attachment 28844
> View attachment 28845


All very nice! It would take a bold man to manage that bottom tweed.

I could play around with the tic weave and tartan tie and do something that would work for me.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Nice jacket but the shirt and tie are a bit staid. Something in yellow tattersall and rust knit would be more like it.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Nice jacket but the shirt and tie are a bit staid. Something in yellow tattersall and rust knit would be more like it.


Not if you're this guy!


----------



## Oldsarge

I'm not.


----------



## Oldsarge

And now for something completely different:


----------



## Fading Fast

Two of my favorite things in life are insanely heavy tweed and insanely bold herringbone patterns:









*Sure, that's not the best commentary on my life, but still, heavy tweed and bold herringbone!


----------



## eagle2250

^^
That notably handsome Herringbone Tweed overcoat makes me long for a few cold winter days during which I could wear it and fully enjoy it's promise! :crazy:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Two of my favorite things in life are insanely heavy tweed and insanely bold herringbone patterns:
> View attachment 28875
> 
> 
> *Sure, that's not the best commentary on my life, but still, heavy tweed and bold herringbone!


Magnificent!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## derum




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> And now for something completely different:
> 
> View attachment 28869


Frodo!? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Clintotron

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 28935


A winning combination. That tie screams "Mardi Gras" to me, but that's my regional culture talking.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Fading Fast

Clintotron said:


> A winning combination. That tie screams "Mardi Gras" to me, but that's my regional culture talking.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


I agree, I thought it was a particularly good combo. I'm not much of a pocket square guy, but that one is spot on.


----------



## Oldsarge

I can almost do it, too, but I'll be spending the day staining greenhouse kit pieces so I think I'll stick to sloppies.


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ The mismatched leather buttons on the sleeve are odd, no? Or is this some sort of "sample" item just to show the options?

⇩ Love this one - the vest is killer perfect.


----------



## Fading Fast

Don't like the pocket square with it, but applaud the rest of the effort, not as something I'd probably wear, but as something that shows skill.


----------



## mreams99

Fading Fast said:


> Don't like the pocket square with it, but applaud the rest of the effort, not as something I'd probably wear, but as something that shows skill.
> View attachment 28982


I think that a pocket square in the same pattern and colors, but made of wool, would work better. Do you agree?


----------



## Oldsarge

I'd be more inclined to go with one that echoes the tone of the shirt.


----------



## Clintotron

Maybe a textured linen in navy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Oldsarge

that would work!


----------



## Fading Fast

If you are going to go bold glen plaid, then, IMO, tone on tone is a good way to do it without it, possibly, becoming too loud. This suit jacket is a perfect example of how you can turn up the pattern while turning down the color and making it all work. I, also, love that the tone on tone is echoed throughout the outfit. I'm a big fan of all of it, but I'd lose the sunglasses.


----------



## Fading Fast

Love that you can feel the weight of it (and love the throat latch).


----------



## Clintotron

Looks about an inch thick. Ha! Seriously, though. That weight, unlined, would be perfect for me down here on the bayou. 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> If you are going to go bold glen plaid, then, IMO, tone on tone is a good way to do it...


Nice. But tone-on-tone? Looks like just black and gray.

Tone-on-tone connotes, to me, thread of a color woven through, in or on fabric of the same color. As a striped navy suit of mine, the stripes only apparent through shadow and in certain light...because only the weave differs, not the color. Nice outfit tho, the one you showed.


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> Nice. But tone-on-tone? Looks like just black and gray.
> 
> Tone-on-tone connotes, to me, thread of a color woven through, in or on fabric of the same color. As a striped navy suit of mine, the stripes only apparent through shadow and in certain light...because only the weave differs, not the color. Nice outfit tho, the one you showed.


You are correct, thank you for pointing out my error.

It would have been (I think) more accurate if I had said similar hues or hues in the same family.


----------



## Peak and Pine

...or, in the instance you provided, monocromatic.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Love that you can feel the weight of it (and love the throat latch).
> View attachment 29032


I don't know for sure if it's bullet proof, but it sure would slow a round down! Very nice.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

How about a tweed suit? 



There is a story behind, though only if y'all play nice.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> I agree, I thought it was a particularly good combo. I'm not much of a pocket square guy, but that one is spot on.


Shouldn't a pocket square in a tweed look as if could handle a day in the field wiping dirt off your face? Not that would, mean something not dandy and light. Or am I not learned?

Feel the same way about ties, only a few wear with a tweed sport coat, though after this new tweed suit, so soft and small herringbone, plan to try with a refined tie.

Thank y'all in advance.

By the way, good way to come back, so much good tweed!


----------



## Clintotron

Adriel Rowley said:


> Shouldn't a pocket square in a tweed look as if could handle a day in the field wiping dirt off your face? Not that would, mean something not dandy and light. Or am I not learned?
> 
> Feel the same way about ties, only a few wear with a tweed sport coat, though after this new tweed suit, so soft and small herringbone, plan to try with a refined tie.
> 
> Thank y'all in advance.
> 
> By the way, good way to come back, so much good tweed!


I tend to agree with you. Sometimes a delicate silk pocket square can offer the refining touch for a polished casual look. I'm sporting one as I type this.
On occasion, I've worn, with great results, some very roughly-textured wool ties purchased from @TweedyDon. One shouldn't go overboard with textures too closely related, however.









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Clintotron said:


> I tend to agree with you. Sometimes a delicate silk pocket square can offer the refining touch for a polished casual look. I'm sporting one as I type this.
> On occasion, I've worn, with great results, some very roughly-textured wool ties purchased from @TweedyDon. One shouldn't go overboard with textures too closely related, however.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Can you please extrapolate on textures related?

See, this is why I have fallen even more in love with dressing a little nicer: so much to consider all the will making it look like wasn't as considered, or at all.


----------



## Clintotron

In college I earned a degree in design (graphic, technically, but it encompassed SO much more). We learned about coordinating hues, values, saturations, and patterns, as well as balancing those same aspects of design. Too many similar textures could leave you looking too “busy” or not “busy” enough. I carefully consider all my combinations before wearing and I’ve begun to develop a quick what-works-what-doesn’t-work mindset.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Adriel Rowley

Clintotron said:


> In college I earned a degree in design (graphic, technically, but it encompassed SO much more). We learned about coordinating hues, values, saturations, and patterns, as well as balancing those same aspects of design. Too many similar textures could leave you looking too "busy" or not "busy" enough. I carefully consider all my combinations before wearing and I've begun to develop a quick what-works-what-doesn't-work mindset.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


I too have a design degree: Design Studies with a Concentration in Management.

Ah, like too much impasto where falling off the canvas. Trouble is knowing when too much similar texture...


----------



## Clintotron

I’d suggest an image search of tweed garments on models. Find something that strikes you as what you’d like to be seen in. Then study the components and work with what you have. It’s something I’ve done.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Adriel Rowley

Clintotron said:


> I'd suggest an image search of tweed garments on models. Find something that strikes you as what you'd like to be seen in. Then study the components and work with what you have. It's something I've done.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


That is one reason love this thread. I have seen all sorts of combinations to where I would wear any tie or sweater, to now I am sometimes so picky unhappy with any choice.

Honestly, right now if had the choice between a pocket square or a wool tie, you bet I go for the wool tie. I have one in a medium brown, paid three quid for, not too much texture, just enough. Though not satisfied with brown and have yet to settle on the next. now with two grey tweed suits, think needs to be a blue.


----------



## Clintotron

Adriel Rowley said:


> That is one reason love this thread. I have seen all sorts of combinations to where I would wear any tie or sweater, to now I am sometimes so picky unhappy with any choice.
> 
> Honestly, right now if had the choice between a pocket square or a wool tie, you bet I go for the wool tie. I have one in a medium brown, paid three quid for, not too much texture, just enough. Though not satisfied with brown and have yet to settle on the next. now with two grey tweed suits, think needs to be a blue.


Rust wouldn't be a bad color.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ I love it other than the scarf being one step too far IMHO.


----------



## Fading Fast

Adriel Rowley said:


> Shouldn't a pocket square in a tweed look as if could handle a day in the field wiping dirt off your face? Not that would, mean something not dandy and light. Or am I not learned?
> 
> Feel the same way about ties, only a few wear with a tweed sport coat, though after this new tweed suit, so soft and small herringbone, plan to try with a refined tie.
> 
> Thank y'all in advance.
> 
> By the way, good way to come back, so much good tweed!


I'm not a big fan of the pocket square in general and, myself, have only ever worn a white one (TV fold) with a business suit. Otherwise, my sport coats and more casual suits (like tweeds / flannels / etc.) are worn without a PS.

That's just me as I love a lot of what I see guys do here at AAAC and in this thread with PSs. To your point re the PS in that image, others with professional skills have addressed the texture issue, so I'll answer as an (unranked) amateur.

Since few of us wear tweeds for their original purpose (like, oh say, me running errands with a cellphone in the 21st Century in the asphalt jungle of NYC), I think there's plenty of wiggle room to play around as long as it looks good to the eye.

In this case, the colors of that PS are so perfect (obviously, just MHO), that I thought it worked and, as others have noted, there's no need to keep every single texture the same. Also, since the PS's colors are dark, I think they offset the softness of the material a bit which also makes it work well in the context of the entire outfit.

In a similar vein - and to your comment (somewhere above) - if I was going to wear a silk tie with tweed, it would be a "heavy" silk like an ancient madder or thick twill so that it didn't look flimsy versus the Tweed.

I like your tweed suit from a page or so back, but if possible, you might want to have the sleeves let out as they look short to my eye.


----------



## Fading Fast

And since we've just been critiquing tweed ensembles, I don't think I posted this one ⇩. I like what's been done here, except, for me, I'd lose the PS altogether as I don't think it adds anything, the colors are only okay and it - again, just my feel - upsets the otherwise outstanding harmony in the overall outfit.


----------



## Clintotron

Fading Fast said:


> And since we've just been critiquing tweed ensembles, I don't think I posted this one ⇩. I like what's been done here, except, for me, I'd lose the PS altogether as I don't think it adds anything, the colors are only okay and it - again, just my feel - upsets the otherwise outstanding harmony in the overall outfit.
> View attachment 29058


I'd agree with ditching the PS in this instance. I think it detracts from the look and competes too much with the fair isle. A solid (perhaps orange) PS or none at all. I think an absent pocket square can be a good thing.

Edit: I DO like that pocket square and would use it in other applications.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> I'm not a big fan of the pocket square in general and, myself, have only ever worn a white one (TV fold) with a business suit. Otherwise, my sport coats and more casual suits (like tweeds / flannels / etc.) are worn without a PS.
> 
> That's just me as I love a lot of what I see guys do here at AAAC and in this thread with PSs. To your point re the PS in that image, others with professional skills have addressed the texture issue, so I'll answer as an (unranked) amateur.
> 
> Since few of us wear tweeds for their original purpose (like, oh say, me running errands with a cellphone in the 21st Century in the asphalt jungle of NYC), I think there's plenty of wiggle room to play around as long as it looks good to the eye.
> 
> In this case, the colors of that PS are so perfect (obviously, just MHO), that I thought it worked and, as others have noted, there's no need to keep every single texture the same. Also, since the PS's colors are dark, I think they offset the softness of the material a bit which also makes it work well in the context of the entire outfit.
> 
> In a similar vein - and to your comment (somewhere above) - if I was going to wear a silk tie with tweed, it would be a "heavy" silk like an ancient madder or thick twill so that it didn't look flimsy versus the Tweed.
> 
> I like your tweed suit from a page or so back, but if possible, you might want to have the sleeves let out as they look short to my eye.


Honestly, was timid do say am not obsessed with pocket squares. My archetype and my practical thinking, don't quite make sense. I have wanted a light blue for the less formality and me thinks pull out the light blue stipe on the brown DB suit. Somehow, I ended up with one, probably was in a coat and fell out without being noticed.

Shouldn't the weight of the tweed be considered? For example, the tweed suit I posted, it is lightweight and soft, so couldn't it have a lighter tie?

Thank you for the complement, appreciated. Will post up later the back story as promised. 

As for the sleeves, they were fine before drycleaning. I am going to try something before I let them down, usually have to take them up which is easier when four buttons (I prefer three so leave the last off).

Oh and I am defiantly one that wears a tweed sport coat for errands, haven't you seen it? You were one of the reasons I got it, knowing could be worn for errands.

*Edit:* Why not put it here?

So, I find this tweed suit on sale from $120 to $36, with an option to make an offer. Well, of course going to make an offer, who wouldn't? Offered $25 figuring meet at $30, nope, comes back with $35. Wish had thought then to screen capture, thought was going to be reasonable and accept my $30 counteroffer. Nope, comes back with $32, so figure why not join him in the game and go for the middle? 

Take away: never know what will happen when bargaining and just go along with it.


----------



## Fading Fast

Adriel Rowley said:


> ...Shouldn't the weight of the tweed be considered? For example, the tweed suit I posted, it is lightweight and soft, so couldn't it have a lighter tie?....


Yes, but I'd think of ideas like that as soft guidelines not hard rules. So, in general, the weight and texture of the fabrics in an outfit should be harmonious, which usually means "in the same family," but as you develop your "eye" and "feel," you can make exceptions where it "feels" right to you.

Clintotron, a few post back, recommended looking at tweeds on models to help you develop your "eye" and "feel." That's great advice as you'll not only see what others thinks work well, you'll develop your own like-don't-like views which will help.

Think of this like writing. First you have to learn the basic rules of grammar, but all good writers bend, stretch and, occasionally, break the rules in ways that improve their writing and allow them to develop their own style.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> Yes, but I'd think of ideas like that as soft guidelines not hard rules. So, in general, the weight and texture of the fabrics in an outfit should be harmonious, which usually means "in the same family," but as you develop your "eye" and "feel," you can make exceptions where it "feels" right to you.
> 
> Clintotron, a few post back, recommended looking at tweeds on models to help you develop your "eye" and "feel." That's great advice as you'll not only see what others thinks work well, you'll develop your own like-don't-like views which will help.
> 
> Think of this like writing. First you have to learn the basic rules of grammar, but all good writers bend, stretch and, occasionally, break the rules in ways that improve their writing and allow them to develop their own style.


As an artist (primarily acrylic, pastel, and watercolor), get about binding rules. Somewhere, or so I think, is a picture of me in a heavier tweed sport coat wearing a light pullover. The trick it seems is to know the rules and be okay with criticism for breaking them, correct?

At this point in my journey, still getting to know what I can accept. Just last week accepted okay to wear plaid flannel shirts with my tweed sport coat, now gone from two shirts to about half dozen just like that. Still on the hunt for wool flannel yardage for when make my own shirts (doesn't look like even available OTR).

Maybe next time I wear the herringbone suit post another picture and see if I am getting it?

Here is the tie I have been desiring for over a year from Chipp's, just can't seem to justify spending so much when used far less...


----------



## Oldsarge

I think the pocket square is just a little dubious but the rest is first rate.


----------



## mreams99

Pardon the falling snow.
I'd appreciate any feedback.


----------



## Oldsarge

You know, I have a jacket in very similar material.


----------



## FLMike

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 29074
> 
> 
> I think the pocket square is just a little dubious but the rest is first rate.


Hey, that's the Ben Silver I just picked up off of ebay! My first-ever HT.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

FLMike said:


> Hey, that's the Ben Silver I just picked up off of ebay! My first-ever HT.


Florida gets that cold? 

Look forward to seeing more of it, as who can get enough of tweed?


----------



## FLMike

Adriel Rowley said:


> Florida gets that cold?
> 
> Look forward to seeing more of it, as who can get enough of tweed?


No, it doesn't. I travel for work.


----------



## Matt S

Peak and Pine said:


> Nice. But tone-on-tone? Looks like just black and gray.
> 
> Tone-on-tone connotes, to me, thread of a color woven through, in or on fabric of the same color. As a striped navy suit of mine, the stripes only apparent through shadow and in certain light...because only the weave differs, not the color. Nice outfit tho, the one you showed.


When the weave creates the pattern, that is a 'self patten' or 'self-on-self'. In the case of your suit that is known as a 'self stripe'. 'Tone-on-tone' means different shades of the same colour. I often see tone-on-tone checks of medium grey on dark grey or medium blue on dark blue. I have a tone-on-tone pinpoint shirt of lilac on purple. But an all white shirt with a shiny satin stripe stripe woven in is a self-on-self or white-on-white.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

FLMike said:


> No, it doesn't. I travel for work.


Rafael and I think that is a great choice for travel: 



.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

Matt S said:


> When the weave creates the pattern, that is a 'self patten' or 'self-on-self'. In the case of your suit that is known as a 'self stripe'. 'Tone-on-tone' means different shades of the same colour. I often see tone-on-tone checks of medium grey on dark grey or medium blue on dark blue. I have a tone-on-tone pinpoint shirt of lilac on purple. But an all white shirt with a shiny satin stripe stripe woven in is a self-on-self or white-on-white.


Thanks for the info.
Will update my brain.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Peak and Pine said:


> Thanks for the info.
> Will update my brain.


I like this edit the best.

By the way, I have a purplish Harris Tweed sport coat and lilac slacks, think that shirt work well with them.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^
I laugh.
So you are aware l rewrote the above three times. Very sharp, Mr. Rowley. (He refers to a dig I took at Matt's lilac shirt and shortly thought better of it.)


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> I laugh.
> So you are aware l rewrote the above three times. Very sharp, Mr. Rowley. (He refers to a dig I took at Matt's lilac shirt and shortly thought better of it.)


I been trying to watch a British programme on YouTube and kept seeing the changes, bemused then amused. So figure have some fun. 

Isn't it quite late for you?

Has a cat come into your life?


----------



## Fading Fast

Matt S said:


> When the weave creates the pattern, that is a 'self patten' or 'self-on-self'. In the case of your suit that is known as a 'self stripe'. 'Tone-on-tone' means different shades of the same colour. I often see tone-on-tone checks of medium grey on dark grey or medium blue on dark blue. I have a tone-on-tone pinpoint shirt of lilac on purple. But an all white shirt with a shiny satin stripe stripe woven in is a self-on-self or white-on-white.


As with most things, they get more complicated the more you dig into them.

Matt, as always, your depth of knowledge is amazing.

I think I got "self pattern" and "tone-on-tone" now, but what is monochromatic then?

And digging a little deeper into the tone-on-tone thing, is a dark and light grey herringbone pattern tone on tone? My guess leans no, but they are different shades of the same color.


----------



## Fading Fast

And another insanely thick and beautiful looking coat. I love it with the turtleneck, but think an even heavier or rougher-in-texture turtleneck would have been better:


----------



## eagle2250

mreams99 said:


> Pardon the falling snow.
> I'd appreciate any feedback.
> View attachment 29075
> View attachment 29076


Kudos on the Tweed Jacket and the cardigan sweater vest. The shirt was a good choice. However you might want to upgrade thew trouser portion of your rig to a pair of wool gabs in a complimentary hue!


----------



## mreams99

eagle2250 said:


> Kudos on the Tweed Jacket and the cardigan sweater vest. The shirt was a good choice. However you might want to upgrade thew trouser portion of your rig to a pair of wool gabs in a complimentary hue!


Thank you. I assume that some gray or brown flannel or twill would work, right?
I wore that tweed with those chinos (made of a light brown denim) as kind of a challenge to see how it might work.


----------



## Oldsarge

Grey flannel works with nearly everything.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> As with most things, they get more complicated the more you dig into them.
> 
> Matt, as always, your depth of knowledge is amazing.
> 
> I think I got "self pattern" and "tone-on-tone" now, but what is monochromatic then?
> 
> And digging a little deeper into the tone-on-tone thing, is a dark and light grey herringbone pattern tone on tone? My guess leans no, but they are different shades of the same color.


Have never much thought of an item by itself as monochromatic. For example, I have a gingham shirt in red and pink (shoot me), but never think of it as monochromatic tho it probably is. Strikes me that monochrome best refers to a _collection_ of stuff, gray suit, c'coal tie, black shoes, etc. Beige walls, brown sofa, tan curtains (more bullets please). That sort of thing. But Matt may be here any moment to shame me into twisting my thoughts in the proper direction.


----------



## Fading Fast

I apologize if this is a repeat, but if it isn't, what a coat:


----------



## krock

Fading Fast said:


> I apologize if this is a repeat, but if it isn't, what a coat:
> View attachment 29120


I feel like I'm finally grown-up enough to have one


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> I apologize if this is a repeat, but if it isn't, what a coat:
> View attachment 29120


I love to see it buttoned, DB overcoats do not seem all that common in proper heavy fabrics, especially tweed.


----------



## Matt S

Fading Fast said:


> As with most things, they get more complicated the more you dig into them.
> 
> Matt, as always, your depth of knowledge is amazing.
> 
> I think I got "self pattern" and "tone-on-tone" now, but what is monochromatic then?
> 
> And digging a little deeper into the tone-on-tone thing, is a dark and light grey herringbone pattern tone on tone? My guess leans no, but they are different shades of the same color.


A dark and light grey herringbone pattern is technically tone on tone, but I usually see the term used for less contrast. Here is a classic tone-on-tone:

https://propercloth.com/tailored-cl...s-glen-plaid-suit-with-cuffed-trouser-66.html


----------



## Oldsarge

Ooo, I want one like that!


----------



## Fading Fast

Adriel Rowley said:


> I love to see it buttoned, DB overcoats do not seem all that common in proper heavy fabrics, especially tweed.


Historically, you see a lot of DBs in dark grey overcoats or camelhair polo coats, but I agree, less in more casual fabrics like the big-patterned, black-and-white herringbone in the coat in question.



Matt S said:


> A dark and light grey herringbone pattern is technically tone on tone, but I usually see the term used for less contrast. Here is a classic tone-on-tone:
> 
> https://propercloth.com/tailored-cl...s-glen-plaid-suit-with-cuffed-trouser-66.html


As always, thank you. Also, that's quite a handsome suit. Any additional "color" (ha-ha) on what monochromatic means when referring to an outfit or single item? I tend to think of it as - as P&P noted above - an outfit all in the same color, like grey, but in various shades.

If so, what would a light and dark alternating striped sweater in the same color (say light and dark blue) be - monochromatic, tone-on-tone or what?


----------



## Matt S

Fading Fast said:


> Historically, you see a lot of DBs in dark grey overcoats or camelhair polo coats, but I agree, less in more casual fabrics like the big-patterned, black-and-white herringbone in the coat in question.
> 
> As always, thank you. Also, that's quite a handsome suit. Any additional "color" (ha-ha) on what monochromatic means when referring to an outfit or single item? I tend to think of it as - as P&P noted above - an outfit all in the same color, like grey, but in various shades.
> 
> If so, what would a light and dark alternating striped sweater in the same color (say light and dark blue) be - monochromatic, tone-on-tone or what?


Monochromatic and tone-on-tone can be used interchangably in many cases. Monochromatic in clothes can more often refer to something being one hue of the same lightness and saturation. So all mid grey, for example.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> I apologize if this is a repeat, but if it isn't, what a coat:
> View attachment 29120


FF, do you have a source for this delightful coat?


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> Historically, you see a lot of DBs in dark grey overcoats or camelhair polo coats, but I agree, less in more casual fabrics like the big-patterned, black-and-white herringbone in the coat in question.


Don't get me going.  Look how limited color and style is. Hard finding a Chesterfield, Norfolk, Ulster, and especially a British Warm. Today what I am wearing is a good example from 1930: 1/4 twill in green topcoat with iridescent brown and green partial lining. One can't find any twill coating yardage, let alone in green.

Tweed overcoats in more casual styles, as I understand, were in the past far more common.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> FF, do you have a source for this delightful coat?


I believe it's from this store:
https://nomanwalksalone.com/grey-la...ashmere-mix-double-breasted-officer-coat.html


----------



## Oldsarge

But not in my size, unfortunately.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> But not in my size, unfortunately.


I'm sorry - we've all been there. Bookmark it and keep an eye on it for next Fall.


----------



## Flanderian

With *deepest* apologies to Charles Dana - 

Tweed is a many splendored thing
It's the April rose that only grows in the early Spring?
Tweed is nature's way of giving a reason to be living
The golden crown that makes a man a king
Once on a high and windy hill, In the morning mist
Two lovers kissed and the world stood still
Then your fingers touched my silent heart and taught it how to sing
Yes, true tweed's a many splendored thing


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> I apologize if this is a repeat, but if it isn't, what a coat:
> View attachment 29120


LOL...Not to worry. If it is a repeat, some things bear repeating! That bad boy would indeed be a signature garment in any of our wardrobes.


----------



## Fading Fast

Since we all seemed to enjoy the last DB overcoat (only shot of this one I could find):


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> Since we all seemed to enjoy the last DB overcoat (only shot of this one I could find):
> View attachment 29153


 Not so sure about that one. And you're entitled to an occasional miss. See it this way: would you find a pin stripe overcoat disquieting, better left to suiting? Ditto me on the above. And are you sure it's an overcoat?


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> Not so sure about that one. And you're entitled to an occasional miss. See it this way: would you find a pin stripe overcoat disquieting, better left to suiting? Ditto me on the above. And are you sure it's an overcoat?


I think you're right - it's a suit jacket or sport coat not overcoat (I don't have the best screen, but still - that was an airball).

Personally, I don't wear anything but the "quietest" glen plaids (muted tone on tone in much smaller scale than in the pic), but can appreciate a beautiful fabric - like the one in the pic - even if it's not making it to my wardrobe.


----------



## Fading Fast

A bit gun-shy, so going for a classic:


----------



## Oldsarge

I'm meeting Divij Hemrajani this month to discuss having one of these made up.










I have been fighting the impulse for a 4 pocket jacket for a long time but it has worn down my resistance.


----------



## paxonus

Oldsarge said:


> I'm meeting Divij Hemrajani this month to discuss having one of these made up.
> 
> View attachment 29159
> 
> 
> I have been fighting the impulse for a 4 pocket jacket for a long time but it has worn down my resistance.


Are you going the full monty with an action back, side vents and throat latch?


----------



## Oldsarge

paxonus said:


> Are you going the full monty with an action back, side vents and throat latch?


Of course! It gets cold up here in the PNW and I like to be able to move.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> I think you're right - it's a suit jacket or sport coat not overcoat (I don't have the best screen, but still - that was an airball).
> 
> Personally, I don't wear anything but the "quietest" glen plaids (muted tone on tone in much smaller scale than in the pic), but can appreciate a beautiful fabric - like the one in the pic - even if it's not making it to my wardrobe.


The rebellious side of me would love an overcoat in a bolder check like that. I mean, shouldn't the overcoat be more fun since rarely seen inside where the business of the day happens?

Why must overcoats be in muted tones and patterns?


----------



## Adriel Rowley

How about these?


----------



## Fading Fast

Adriel Rowley said:


> The rebellious side of me would love an overcoat in a bolder check like that. I mean, shouldn't the overcoat be more fun since rarely seen inside where the business of the day happens?
> 
> Why must overcoats be in muted tones and patterns?


I don't think they have to be in muted tones at all. For much of the last Century, in this country anyway, they were common in bold patterns and colors. Up through the '80s, you'd regularly see some business men in grey suits wearing bolder overcoats - perhaps, for the exact reason you note.

But by the '90s, at least in the business world, the bold overcoat faded quickly for whatever reason. Of course, there are plenty of examples to this day of bold overcoats, but in the mainstream business world, in my experience, they became the exception from the '90s on. Before that, they had been, if not quite the norm, at least not unusual.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> A bit gun-shy, so going for a classic:
> 
> View attachment 29155


Simply beautiful!

:beer:


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> A bit gun-shy, so going for a classic:
> 
> View attachment 29155


Very nice. A zero-roll-two-and-a-half. Not often seen. Likewise with the billboard-size Harris label.


----------



## Fading Fast

Came across these yesterday when I was trying to find the origin of a similar one - in response to a query from Old Sarge - that I had posted :


----------



## Oldsarge

Prince Michael of Kent


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ very nice, I particularly like the speckled tie.


----------



## Fading Fast

While nothing wrong with it, for me, I'd try something different in a tie - maybe something with navy as the dominant color.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^
When choosing color combinations, or assessing them as being done here, I have to mentally transfer them to a blank wall with moulding top and bottom and a single window in the center sporting drapes. The dominent color of the outfit, here the gray of the coat, is transferred to the wall, the next color, lavender, to the drapes, and the minor color(s), the mottled brown green of the tie, to the moulding. And while never presuming a real room in these colors, it shows me color proportions and juxtapositions devoid of distraction. I'm not crazy about what I see here.


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> When choosing color combinations, or assessing them as being done here, I have to mentally transfer them to a blank wall with moulding top and bottom and a single window in the center sporting drapes. The dominent color of the outfit, here the gray of the coat, is transferred to the wall, the next color, lavender, to the drapes, and the minor color(s), the mottled brown green of the tie, to the moulding. And while never presuming a real room in these colors, it shows me color proportions and juxtapositions devoid of distraction. I'm not crazy about what I see here.


Your mind and process are more advanced than mine. I really like this outfit other than the tie, but, in general, I like grey-dominated outfits and I like "monotone-ness."

In my "process," I held my finger over the tie to block just it out and when I did that, I loved the outfit, which convinced me that my first thought - the tie was the issue - was correct (of course, just MHO)

I'd play around with ties that have navy or grey as the dominant color to replace the existing one.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Let's you and I go through the colors here, we may be seeing different things. I see the sweater as lavender as well as the stripes of the shirt. I see the mottled green brown of the woolen tie in the horozontal bars of the sweater and deep lavender (purple) in the decrative horozontals. I see no room for a navy tie or navy at all. The outfit looks a little washed out. I think these classic black/gray h'bone jackets require strength in their surroundings. But then my monitor's a Betty Crocker, so it may be grain o'salt time.


----------



## Oldsarge

While any color tie could go well with the overall neutral tone, I would certainly chose something more intense. Blue would be fine as would maroon/dark red, emerald green, gold or rust. Olive just doesn't get my attention.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> Olive [necktie] just doesn't get my attention.


Would an olive one with a shimmering nudie on it reverse your thinking?


----------



## Adriel Rowley

On the tie, IMHO, would say an indigo (not navy), dusty rose, or a light earthy green such as a sage.

I feel a punchy tie put too much focus on the tie, though if was going to, going for a red be the better since the Fairisle has red stripes.


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ The base color of the sweater seems grayish / the stripes in the shirt look pale blue or, maybe, pale grey - of course, to me. I get more of a blue than purple in the Fair Isle's not-green / not maroon decorative horizontals. Hence, navy or some version of blue seems fine as a tie to me - but as noted, I'd have to see it IRL (as the kids say).

Also, what you see as washed out, I see as quietly attractive "monotone-ness." Additionally, I'm fine with black-grey herringbone jackets being surrounded by quietness, especially when the herringbone has a clear light-dark contrast as it does here.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Adriel Rowley said:


> I feel a punchy tie put too much focus on the tie.


Where do you get those, at The Punchy Tie Store?

Adriel, I would agree with you 'cept here and because of the sweater so little of the tie shows, don 't think it 's possible to be too punchy.

Ooooo, look what I found:
http:\thepunchytiestore.com


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ The base color of the sweater seems grayish / the stripes in the shirt look pale blue or, maybe, pale grey - of course, to me. I get more of a blue than purple in the Fair Isle's not-green / not maroon decorative horizontals. Hence, navy or some version of blue seems fine as a tie to me - but as noted, I'd have to see it IRL (as the kids say).
> 
> Also, what you see as washed out, I see as quietly attractive "monotone-ness." Additionally, I'm fine with black-grey herringbone jackets being surrounded by quietness, especially when the herringbone has a clear light-dark contrast as it does here.


Okay, we are seeing different colors. And a confession, I don't understand wearing sweaters under jackets. Never have. Are folks so cold that a tweed jacket 's not enough? The look looks stuffy and confining, probably just to me of course, but if it's thought of as a trad embellishment, maybe, but remember, I was there then and knew no one who did this save a wheezing, coughing lit professor who I actually do think was always cold.


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> Okay, we are seeing different colors. And a confession, I don't understand wearing sweaters under jackets. Never have. Are folks so cold that a tweed jacket 's not enough? The look looks stuffy and confining, probably just to me of course, but if it's thought of as a trad embellishment, maybe, but remember, I was there then and knew no one who did this save a wheezing, coughing lit professor who I actually do think was always cold.


I was born in '64, so my cognizant life missed the Ivy period, but as a young boy, this image of Redford in the movie "Three Days of the Condor" from '75 impact my sense of style (and desire to wear sweaters under tweed jackets):
















To your point about the risk of overheating, I mainly wear the sweater-tweed-jacket combo on colder days when I will be outside at least as much as inside.


----------



## Oldsarge

I rather like the look but it just rarely gets that cold here in the PNW, at least for my metabolism.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Have never seen Condor, but Redford means a great deal to me, especially politically. "We" go way back, saw him live in Barefoot in the Park on Broadway a few months before you were brought forth. Note in the pic you supplied he's outside, hair blowing, putting up his collar so an extra layer makes sense tho I prefer the layer to be on the other side of the jacket, i. e., a coat. But he's Redford, Sundance gets to do whatever he wants. Thanks for the Redford pics. I've got one taped inside my locker.


----------



## paxonus

Fading Fast said:


> I was born in '64, so my cognizant life missed the Ivy period, but as a young boy, this image of Redford in the movie "Three Days of the Condor" from '75 impact my sense of style (and desire to wear sweaters under tweed jackets):
> View attachment 29213
> View attachment 29215
> 
> 
> To your point about the risk of overheating, I mainly wear the sweater-tweed-jacket combo on colder days when I will be outside at least as much as inside.


Another fan of the movie and a good story about a tweed jacket.

https://georgehahn.com/a-new-life-for-an-old-harris-tweed/


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ As you said, that's a good tweed jacket story.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

All it needs is a blackboard and a room full of enthralled students.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> All it needs is a blackboard and a room full of *enthralled students*.


Yeah!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

^

There are about 40 pics of that guy in this thread. Who is he and why does he lean like that?


----------



## ksinc

No one should tuck a sweater in unless you are Redford...


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Peak and Pine said:


> Where do you get those, at The Punchy Tie Store?
> 
> Adriel, I would agree with you 'cept here and because of the sweater so little of the tie shows, don 't think it 's possible to be too punchy.
> 
> Ooooo, look what I found:
> http:\thepunchytiestore.com


Ha! I thought we here abstain from bright colors?  So are you saying be okay to wear a neon orange, electric blue, chartreuse, with that combination? That certainly be punchy!

I think I sit between you and Fading Fast, as I see the colors leaning more towards purple then blue, thus why suggest indigo.

The link does not work and after about five minutes of digging, not finding.

Do you know some people can see more colors than others? That is partly why good artists are artists. So we all could be right in what we see and have to do best guess. Thankfully the minority has limit color perception so bet most wouldn't notice the difference between mauve and lavender, for example. 

I am up past time should be allowed here, falling asleep, so hopefully make sense and din't make any social mistakes...


----------



## Peak and Pine

^
Adriel, you should know me well enough by now to know I made that link up. And for future reference, about 85% of anything I've ever said on here or are going to say on here is also made up. Please forgive me, Lord. I may check into the Betty Ford for this problem.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> Adriel, you should know me well enough by now to know I made that link up. And for future reference, about 85% of anything I've ever said on here or are going to say on here is also made up. Please forgive me, Lord. I may check into the Betty Ford for this problem.


I was suspicious you made it up, though figured give you benefit of the doubt.

So then the question is, how do we know when it is truth or you pulling our noses? And I don't think Mrs. Betty can help with either the solution or the answer.


----------



## Fading Fast

I'd lose the pocket square (and not replace it), otherwise, a classic look:








1. Example of many patterns working well together
2. Love the throat latch

A fun bunch of swatches:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I'd lose the pocket square (and not replace it), otherwise, a classic look:
> View attachment 29238
> 
> 1. Example of many patterns working well together
> 2. Love the throat latch
> 
> A fun bunch of swatches:
> View attachment 29239


One of each, please! :happy:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Love the suit and love the bowtie, but what the heck is going on with the vest as it looks disproportionately long? Also, do the buttons on the suit jacket and vest not match (or is that just lighting)?


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 29290
> 
> 
> Love the suit and love the bowtie, but what the heck is going on with the vest as it looks disproportionately long? Also, do the buttons on the suit jacket and vest not match (or is that just lighting)?


Love the tweed! But must be candid, less wild about the cut. And agree concerning those rather odd peculiarities. :icon_scratch:


----------



## Flanderian

Luca says, *CIAO!









*


----------



## Flanderian

Needs more color! 

You wouldn't dare!

(Me either! )


----------



## Oldsarge

If that coat were paired with more greens and fewer oranges, I'd wear it. As it is, it's a little overwhelming, especially with that hat!


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> If that coat were paired with more greens and fewer oranges, I'd wear it. As it is, it's a little overwhelming, especially with that hat!


Entirely idiosyncratic, but brilliant.

As an aesthetic exercise, not practical dress the color pairing is marvelous.

But I think I'm most impressed by denim shirt with French cuffs!


----------



## Oldsarge

I'm sure it's a custom. I can't imagine where one could buy one OTR.


----------



## eagle2250

No insult intended, but the rig in question reminds me of the wardrobing of the Jim Carry character in the movie "The Mask!" Extreme, for sure. Hopefully not a serious look?


----------



## Oldsarge

Oh, good heavens no. The coat, trousers, vest, shirt and pocket square are all good individual items but the combination is pure GTH. The hat and tie? Not so much.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> No insult intended, but the rig in question reminds me of the wardrobing of the Jim Carry character in the movie "The Mask!" Extreme, for sure. Hopefully not a serious look?


Can't beat it with a stick! :happy:


----------



## Oldsarge

Tweed: the good, the better and the strange.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 29320
> 
> 
> Tweed: the good, the better and the strange.


*OOF!!!*

*







*


----------



## Fading Fast

It's no secret that I'm a J.Crew fan in the sense that I think it offers (on one of its regular sales) excellent value in updated traditional items at price points that are affordable. Are the items Paul Stuart or Purple Label Polo quality - no, but they aren't priced that way either.

I have, no exaggeration, seven of its tweed sport coats (that I've paid between $100 - $250 for on sale / closeout over the past ten-plus years) that I use as "beaters" and that have held up amazingly better than they should for the price.

So, that's just a long explanation for why I'm posting this pic that I stumbled over the other day (which also just happens to be in my size):









My J.Crew Herringbone Tweed "Collection:"


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> It's no secret that I'm a J.Crew fan in the sense that I think it offers (on one of its regular sales) excellent value in updated traditional items at price points that are affordable. Are the items Paul Stuart or Purple Label Polo quality - no, but they aren't priced that way either.
> 
> I have, no exaggeration, seven of its tweed sport coats (that I've paid between $100 - $250 for on sale / closeout over the past ten-plus years) that I use as "beaters" and that have held up amazingly better than they should for the price.
> 
> So, that's just a long explanation for why I'm posting this pic that I stumbled over the other day (which also just happens to be in my size):
> View attachment 29324
> 
> 
> My J.Crew Herringbone Tweed "Collection:"
> View attachment 29327


Wow! A lot of beautiful tweed there!

While we can understand the distinctions of prestige labels, these clothes still look marvelous. Truth is the absolute best possible anything while nice as abstraction isn't necessarily going to result in an equivalent improvement in our appearance. If these fit you, and suit you, you're still going to look great!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Wow! A lot of beautiful tweed there!
> 
> While we can understand the distinctions of prestige labels, these clothes still look marvelous. Truth is the absolute best possible anything while nice as abstraction isn't necessarily going to result in an equivalent improvement in our appearance. If these fit you, and suit you, you're still going to look great!


I agree. I'm 6'1", 150lbs and small boned, so the slimmer (not skinny) cuts work very well on my frame. J.Crew's 40L gets closer to a good fit OTR for me than most brands. That said, they all still need to be taken in, in the waist and skirt, the collar needs to be lowered and the sleeves taken up (to show shirt cuff) and, sometimes, something else needs to be done.

What I should add is that I've altered all of those jackets to the tune of $100-$150 a pop (yes, I paid $99 for a closeout jacket and then $150 to alter it - tailoring in NYC is freakin' expensive) as, to your point, fit is critical. The result is really good as the quality is decent and the fit - on me after alterations - is better than even the nicer brands I own as the "core fit" just works better for me than Brooks or, even, Polo after alteration.

We say it here all the time, but I'll take mid-level quality very well tailored over high-end quality with mediocre tailoring any day.

And, thank you for the nice comment.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I agree. I'm 6'1", 150lbs and small boned, so the slimmer (not skinny) cuts work very well on my frame. J.Crew's 40L gets closer to a good fit OTR for me than most brands. That said, they all still need to be taken in, in the waist and skirt, the collar needs to be lowered and the sleeves taken up (to show shirt cuff) and, sometimes, something else needs to be done.
> 
> What I should add is that I've altered all of those jackets to the tune of $100-$150 a pop (yes, I paid $99 for a closeout jacket and then $150 to alter it - tailoring in NYC is freakin' expensive) as, to your point, fit is critical. The result is really good as the quality is decent and the fit - on me after alterations - is better than even the nicer brands I own as the "core fit" just works better for me than Brooks or, even, Polo after alteration.
> 
> We say it here all the time, but I'll take mid-level quality very well tailored over high-end quality with mediocre tailoring any day.
> 
> And, thank you for the nice comment.


As the sages have taught -

_"Blessed is the man who finds his true fit in RTW." 
_
Since the goal is to wind up with decent clothes that fit and make us look good, the purchase price is truly irrelevant. Perfectly sound to spend what's required with a good alterations tailor, irrespective of price.


----------



## Fading Fast

Swap in a grey* or grey-with-a-small-amount-of-blue*
tie, lose the pocket square and I'm on board. Especially as we segue to Spring - good season-transition use of wool (looks more flannel than tweed - thoughts?).








*Of course, tone and hue must be thoughtful.

Bonus pic that's tweed no question ⇩, tie and vest work very well together


----------



## Oldsarge

I wouldn't lose a pocket square but that one definitely does not work. Agree on the tie. And that vest tie combo is the bomb!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Swap in a grey* or grey-with-a-small-amount-of-blue*
> tie, lose the pocket square and I'm on board. Especially as we segue to Spring - good season-transition use of wool (looks more flannel than tweed - thoughts?).
> View attachment 29343
> 
> *Of course, tone and hue must be thoughtful.
> 
> Bonus pic that's tweed no question ⇩, tie and vest work very well together
> View attachment 29344


Top one, not so much. Bottom one, sweet spot all the way!

:beer:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> Bonus pic that's tweed no question ⇩, tie and vest work very well together
> View attachment 29344


Very nice, as a moment-in-time picture, but it raises a two-fold fun sort of question: where 's the jacket, is it part of a set; if not, what sort of jacket would work here? We know it's not a suit because the pants do not match, nor go that really well with it. Like the forward pleats though. I have a suit from the old Bookster, Bladen sold as vintage, that very much resembles that vest. Have never worn it. And why is that? Honestly don't know. A partial reason is that it weighs c. 50 lbs. Maybe I'll ready it -- it needs fit work -- in time for Hey It's Tweed.02, or whatever this thread goes by. Good news about Fast's picture under discussion, it's available on Amazon, new, for 30 bucks. Google Image Search, part of my Google bundle which costs me monthly the exact price I pay to breathe.


----------



## ran23

Looking to hit the 70's here soon, not ready to put away my tweeds.


----------



## FLMike

Fading Fast said:


> My J.Crew Herringbone Tweed "Collection:"
> View attachment 29327


Well, nobody can accuse you of not knowing what you like.


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> Very nice, as a moment-in-time picture, but it raises a two-fold fun sort of question: where 's the jacket, is it part of a set; if not, what sort of jacket would work here? We know it's not a suit because the pants do not match, nor go that really well with it. Like the forward pleats though. I have a suit from the old Bookster, Bladen sold as vintage, that very much resembles that vest. Have never worn it. And why is that? Honestly don't know. A partial reason is that it weighs c. 50 lbs. Maybe I'll ready it -- it needs fit work -- in time for Hey It's Tweed.02, or whatever this thread goes by. Good news about Fast's picture under discussion, it's available on Amazon, new, for 30 bucks. Google Image Search, part of my Google bundle which costs me monthly the exact price I pay to breathe.


I agree. If the trousers matched the vest and then there was a contrasting jacket (fill in whichever one suits you here) then you would have just exactly the sort of countryside suit that tickles my fancy so well. My preference would be for something rust, unless it was supposed to be a shooting ensemble. Then I'm not sure what would go well. Probably a Barbour.


----------



## ran23

I really have to put together an outfit like that.


----------



## Fading Fast

FLMike said:


> Well, nobody can accuse you of not knowing what you like.


Very true.

Expanding on the story of my J.Crew herringbone tweed "collection" (which are, almost all the sport coats I own, as you'll quickly learn) is that several years ago, when we were in the middle of a move and an apartment renovation project, which necessitated an unplanned interim move to a small temporary rental, we place a good part of our wardrobes (and the nicest items) in "safe" storage in our new apartment building's basement (we have our own locked unit down there and we used cotton bags, cedar chips, etc.).

Well, life being what it is, there was a massive fire down there, which, fortunately, was put out before anyone was hurt or the building burnt down (a real risk at the time), but the basement suffered massive damage and our clothes were all destroyed.

In that fire, I lost almost all of my really nice herringbone tweed sport coats other than one really old BB sport coat and one quirky Polo one that I hadn't bothered to store down there. Hence, my wardrobe and my herringbone-sport-coat "collection" were all but wiped out. As AAAC member knows, replacing those items requires more than money as you only find the "killer" pieces over a long period of time and when they are in your size and on "that" really good sale.

So my J.Crew "collection," which I added two to since the fire, is pretty much all that remains of a once really nice herringbone-tweed-sport-coat "collection."


----------



## Fading Fast

Really nice combo ⇩, love the Fair Isle.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Very true.
> 
> Expanding on the story of my J.Crew herringbone tweed "collection" (which are, almost all the sport coats I own, as you'll quickly learn) is that several years ago, when we were in the middle of a move and an apartment renovation project, which necessitated an unplanned interim move to a small temporary rental, we place a good part of our wardrobes (and the nicest items) in "safe" storage in our new apartment building's basement (we have our own locked unit down there and we used cotton bags, cedar chips, etc.).
> 
> Well, life being what it is, there was a massive fire down there, which, fortunately, was put out before anyone was hurt or the building burnt down (a real risk at the time), but the basement suffered massive damage and our clothes were all destroyed.
> 
> In that fire, I lost almost all of my really nice herringbone tweed sport coats other than one really old BB sport coat and one quirky Polo one that I hadn't bothered to store down there. Hence, my wardrobe and my herringbone-sport-coat "collection" were all but wiped out. As AAAC member knows, replacing those items requires more than money as you only find the "killer" pieces over a long period of time and when they are in your size and on "that" really good sale.
> 
> So my J.Crew "collection," which I added two to since the fire, is pretty much all that remains of a once really nice herringbone-tweed-sport-coat "collection."


Wow, devastating!  I'm very sorry.

I hope that at least you were well compensated, but of course you're right, money alone can't fix this, it will take time, and some things are always irreplaceable,



Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 29390
> 
> 
> Really nice combo ⇩, love the Fair Isle.
> View attachment 29391


All home runs! I'll take one of each, please! :beer:


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> Very true.
> 
> Expanding on the story of my J.Crew herringbone tweed "collection" (which are, almost all the sport coats I own, as you'll quickly learn) is that several years ago, when we were in the middle of a move and an apartment renovation project, which necessitated an unplanned interim move to a small temporary rental, we place a good part of our wardrobes (and the nicest items) in "safe" storage in our new apartment building's basement (we have our own locked unit down there and we used cotton bags, cedar chips, etc.).
> 
> Well, life being what it is, there was a massive fire down there, which, fortunately, was put out before anyone was hurt or the building burnt down (a real risk at the time), but the basement suffered massive damage and our clothes were all destroyed.
> 
> In that fire, I lost almost all of my really nice herringbone tweed sport coats other than one really old BB sport coat and one quirky Polo one that I hadn't bothered to store down there. Hence, my wardrobe and my herringbone-sport-coat "collection" were all but wiped out. As AAAC member knows, replacing those items requires more than money as you only find the "killer" pieces over a long period of time and when they are in your size and on "that" really good sale.
> 
> So my J.Crew "collection," which I added two to since the fire, is pretty much all that remains of a once really nice herringbone-tweed-sport-coat "collection."


My deepest condolences on your loss.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Wow, devastating!  I'm very sorry.
> 
> I hope that at least you were well compensated, but of course you're right, money alone can't fix this, it will take time, and some things are always irreplaceable,...





Oldsarge said:


> My deepest condolences on your loss.


Thank you guys. And to show my appreciation, a bonus pic for today:


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Wow. That looks like a Trad version of Jonestown.


----------



## momsdoc

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 29390
> 
> 
> Really nice combo ⇩, love the Fair Isle.
> View attachment 29391


Hey, How did you get my BB sports coat?


----------



## FLMike

momsdoc said:


> Hey, How did you get my BB sports coat?
> 
> View attachment 29411


So, I asked you a couple of times, right after you bought it, what you thought of that blue Land's End tweed jacket with the large red plaid through it. Both times you completely ignored me. It gave me a real complex that I'm not sure I've completly shaken to this day. Why doesn't momsdoc like me, I asked myself every time I opened the browser to AAAC. Sometimes I still do. And that was probably 2-3 years ago. Anyway, I passed on the coat because, well, I really didn't need any tweed at the time, and also just out of principal. If MD is going to ignore me, I'll be darned if I'm going to dress like him! Well, just for fun (maybe third time's a charm, or maybe he's decided to forgive me for some unrealized slight), I'll ask once more..... Hey MD, what do you think of that blue w/red tweed number from Land's End?

[Warning: I don't know if my psyche can handle a third rejection.]


----------



## momsdoc

Sorry FLMike,

I truly don’t recall even posting a pic of that sports coat. I apologize if I didn’t answer you. I might have had it at the tailor and forgotten about the post when it came back. IDK.

It’s a classic cut with a medium weight tweed. The fused interlining is a bit stiff, but since tweed isn’t as flexible as a regular wool coat, I’m OK with it. The color and the stark contrasting red windowpane make it a standout item. I wear it about 2 or 3 times a year. It pairs really well with Corning’s red tweed tie and also with their wool and cotton yellow button down collar shirt with a large red check the scale of the two checks is so different that they pair well. It’s a nice shade of blue that makes a mice change from the navy of a blazer. Good lapel width, gorge, and button stance. Nothing special as far as construction but better quality than expected for an economy priced jacket. Would definitely buy again.

It’s a fun coat.


----------



## FLMike

momsdoc said:


> Sorry FLMike,
> 
> I truly don't recall even posting a pic of that sports coat. I apologize if I didn't answer you. I might have had it at the tailor and forgotten about the post when it came back. IDK.
> 
> It's a classic cut with a medium weight tweed. The fused interlining is a bit stiff, but since tweed isn't as flexible as a regular wool coat, I'm OK with it. The color and the stark contrasting red windowpane make it a standout item. I wear it about 2 or 3 times a year. It pairs really well with Corning's red tweed tie and also with their wool and cotton yellow button down collar shirt with a large red check the scale of the two checks is so different that they pair well. It's a nice shade of blue that makes a mice change from the navy of a blazer. Good lapel width, gorge, and button stance. Nothing special as far as construction but better quality than expected for an economy priced jacket. Would definitely buy again.
> 
> It's a fun coat.


Whew! Thank you so much!! I'm glad to hear it wasn't personal.


----------



## Fading Fast

I'd have gone with a patterned tie as there are too many "blocks" of a single color here for me, but I love the jacket's swelled edges, patch pockets and the heft of its material.


----------



## Fading Fast

There's some weekend boldness in this Tweed


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> There's some weekend boldness in this Tweed
> View attachment 29458


Damn! Just . . . damn!


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> There's some weekend boldness in this Tweed
> View attachment 29458


That Tweed jacket is simply magnificent and the vest is but icing on the cake! :happy:


----------



## Fading Fast

It's Sunday and St. Patrick's Day, but stupid me used up a really good green-tweed pic yesterday. Hence, I scoured around this morning for some tweed pics with green for today:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> It's Sunday and St. Patrick's Day, but stupid me used up a really good green-tweed pic yesterday. Hence, I scoured around this morning for some tweed pics with green for today:
> View attachment 29463
> View attachment 29464
> View attachment 29465


Nice!


----------



## Flanderian

A tweed, indeed!


----------



## 215339

Flanderian said:


> A tweed, indeed!
> 
> View attachment 29477
> 
> 
> View attachment 29476


Oh my oh my oh my

That is exactly the type of balmacaan I want.

Perhaps in fabrics like these too


__
http://instagr.am/p/BbdXjmyBz8X/


__
http://instagr.am/p/Bc5-aJahRQ8/


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> It's Sunday and St. Patrick's Day, but stupid me used up a really good green-tweed pic yesterday. Hence, I scoured around this morning for some tweed pics with green for today:
> View attachment 29463
> View attachment 29464
> View attachment 29465


May we assume that the buttons positioned above each of the cargo pockets are for securing a belt that would be positioned at ones waist and over the jacket? The shooting coat is a stunningly memorable garment!


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> May we assume that the buttons positioned above each of the cargo pockets are for securing a belt that would be positioned at ones waist and over the jacket? The shooting coat is a stunningly memorable garment!


Your questions are well-above my pay grade as I've only shot a gun once and it was skeet shooting in a very blue-collar way (a lot of fun, but no tweed "shooting" jackets involved). That said, I agree, whatever all the doohickeys are for, that is one beautiful coat.


----------



## Oldsarge

Much as I love to shoot, I fear that showing up at the local range in so splendid a coat would get me some very strange looks, indeed. And I have it on good authority that if one is shooting driven bird in the UK, a new coat marks one down in social esteem. Now if one like that were twenty years old . . .


----------



## Fading Fast

I also love the turtleneck:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I also love the turtleneck:
> View attachment 29523


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

And not all tweeds look wonderful


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 29532


Egad, I'm scheduled to see the Dentist this coming Thursday. Thanks for the reminder...Not! LOL.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> Egad, I'm scheduled to see the Dentist this coming Thursday. Thanks for the reminder...Not! LOL.


----------



## Flanderian

*Yea, though it be thick and hairy, thou shalt fear no tweed!!!* irate:


----------



## Oldsarge

Pay no attention to the overpriced necktie.


----------



## Oldsarge

So I ordered one . . .


----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 29553
> 
> 
> So I ordered one . . .


I am truly envious, but to purchase such an iconic Tweed creation and relegate such to closet queen status (in these sub-tropical parts) would seem a sartorial travesty!


----------



## Oldsarge

That is another lovely thing about life in the PNW. Our tweed season lasts from mid-September to early June, most years.


----------



## Fading Fast

Being on the low-key side, this is a big, heavy tweed I'd love to wear:


----------



## Oldsarge

I have this thing for green.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 29576
> 
> 
> I have this thing for green.


Love that stye of throat latch.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

Shouldn't we have something stronger than a 'like' button? That is stunning!


----------



## Oldsarge

And now for something Irish


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> Shouldn't we have something stronger than a 'like' button? That is stunning!


Agreed - the buttons alone look awesome.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 29607





Oldsarge said:


> Shouldn't we have something stronger than a 'like' button? That is stunning!


The two of you present a rather compelling argument for one to move back North! I really love that jacket and miss the opportunity to wear my tweeds on a regular basis!


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> The two of you present a rather compelling argument for one to move back North! I really love that jacket and miss the opportunity to wear my tweeds on a regular basis!


You've explained why you are in FL and I applaud your priorities as a wonderful wife is insanely better than a tweed jacket. That said, I'm glad my girlfriend is a Northeasterner through and through - she loves the cold and starts grumbling about the summer no later than mid July.


----------



## Fading Fast

Individual, I think both pieces - the jacket and the vest - are impressive; however, *they do not belong together at all*. Also, I'd lose the boutonniere and the PS as both fight the roughness of the tweed.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ the jacket is cool on its own (very "Mad Men"), but, IMHO, it clashes with the shirt and the shirt also looks pretentious with its unbuttoned button-down collar with a collar bar.


----------



## Oldsarge

The shirt is ridiculous and, as you say, unacceptably pretentious. I just liked the coat and scarf or sweater or whatever that is.


----------



## Fading Fast

Crazy day at work, but wanted to put one pic up anyway. I love the classic black & white herringbone tweed sport coat, but this pic is really about how perfectly every single item in the outfit goes together - and in a classic way:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Crazy day at work, but wanted to put one pic up anyway. I love the classic black & white herringbone tweed sport coat, but this pic is really about how perfectly every single item in the outfit goes together - and in a classic way:
> View attachment 29663


Nice!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Suave.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## momsdoc

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 29681


OOH!, Daddy like.


----------



## Fading Fast

Weekend boldness:


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Don't think I've ever seen a tattersall jacket before. And now I know why. You really like that? Tattersall is so identified with shirts, like the one being shown, that it's difficult to mentally transfer that pattern to pants or ties, suits or jackets. For me anyhow. Funny though, I enjoy tattersall cake.


----------



## Flanderian

momsdoc said:


> OOH!, Daddy like.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Weekend boldness:
> View attachment 29683


Absolutely magnificent!

Beautiful tweed!


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> Don't think I've ever seen a tattersall jacket before. And now I know why. You really like that? Tattersall is so identified with shirts, like the one being shown, that it's difficult to mentally transfer that pattern to pants or ties, suits or jackets. For me anyhow. Funny though, I enjoy tattersall cake.


I don't post these pics as representation of things I love, just tweeds I find interesting for discussion. I also think many things that I wouldn't wear work on the right person in the right situation.

I'm not going to wear a tattersall (that word doesn't spell itself) tweed sport coat with a tattersall shirt, pheasant emblem tie - that outfit would wear me and everyone would see it that way - but I know men who can pull it off in the right situation.

I worked for years with a guy who wore three and four patterns in almost every suit-shirt-tie-PS combo he put together. I couldn't do it, but darn if he didn't have the right style and presence to pull it off. It just worked for him.

That's it. I post many of these pics for discussion - some I love, some I don't. My tastes run to the below for things I'd wear, but I love that so much more is out there and so many men have the talent and verve to wear so many different things.


----------



## Oldsarge

$970 + shipping.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast (just above Sarge) -

Sure. I get it and you're fine. You and others do the work, the rest of us get to sit back and enjoy. Double good in my case since patience goes out the window when shopping - - - for socks in a store or pics on the internet. So thank you. And just because I'd have to be laying quite still on a catafalque before I'd jam myself into a double tattersall with one the color of bile doesn't mean others might be thoroughly charmed by the idea. The heavy-poster from New Jersey gave it an _ absolutely magnificent_. So there you go.

And maybe I've misunderstood the premise of the thread. Maybe we're supposed to ooh and ahh over every posted pic. Some do derserve oohs, some ahhs, some both, a few neither. The most recent one seems to me, and probably just to me, very much the latter.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

(Four hours later.)

I have just reread the above and see how poor wording would confuse. My choice was to delete or add this.

This.The intent was to thank @Fading Fast and others for having the patience to bring forth a variety of pics germain to this thread, both the startling and the not-so. So let me re-say that part: thank you. You've made my little cell phone here into Must See TV.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I don't post these pics as representation of things I love, just tweeds I find interesting for discussion. I also think many things that I wouldn't wear work on the right person in the right situation.
> 
> I'm not going to wear a tattersall (that word doesn't spell itself) tweed sport coat with a tattersall shirt, pheasant emblem tie - that outfit would wear me and everyone would see it that way - but I know men who can pull it off in the right situation.
> 
> I worked for years with a guy who wore three and four patterns in almost every suit-shirt-tie-PS combo he put together. I couldn't do it, but darn if he didn't have the right style and presence to pull it off. It just worked for him.
> 
> That's it. I post many of these pics for discussion - some I love, some I don't. My tastes run to the below for things I'd wear, but I love that so much more is out there and so many men have the talent and verve to wear so many different things.
> View attachment 29692
> View attachment 29693
> 
> View attachment 29694


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 29703


So eminently professorial!


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> So eminently professorial!


I thought the brown, houndstooth tweed bowtie was the right touch for the look.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 29576
> 
> 
> I have this thing for green.


And my most favorite color; glad not the only one.

Trouble is, very rare clothing color. Can understand as seems most don't look good in green (being a cool undertone). Forget finding a green suit (there are a few olives, though mean a true green like pine), though that coat does come close.


----------



## Oldsarge

That's a green and blue tweed from W. Bill. Choosing my own fabric is the major draw of MTM clothing. I do get so tired of grey.


----------



## Flanderian

Tweed, Polo Style!


----------



## Flanderian

Your tweed and a tie to pair!


----------



## mreams99




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Tweed, Polo Style!


This is one of the few pics of an actual person that looks pretty darn close to a Fellows illustration.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 29755


That's a very neat coat but I question the wisdom of a shooting coat in blue. Perhaps in a foggy marsh?


----------



## eagle2250

^^
I'm in total agreement with your logic regarding the color, but jeez Louise, that is one very handsome jacket. :happy:


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> That's a very neat coat but I question the wisdom of a shooting coat in blue. Perhaps in a foggy marsh?


"Yeah, I *hate* blue!!! "


----------



## StephenRG

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> I'm in total agreement with your logic regarding the color, but jeez Louise, that is one very handsome jacket. :happy:


I think it's actually too handsome. Recall in "Goldfinger" how Bond notes that Goldfinger is inappropriately dressed for golf because he's too perfectly dressed for golf.


----------



## Oldsarge

Our member in the diplomatic corps has confirmed that. One never wants to look 'just from the tailor's' in the field. It's just so _nouveau arrív._


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> "Yeah, I *hate* blue!!! "


^^
Enjoying your post, member Flanderian...nice rack! Believe me, I don't often say that to a guy, but I find myself almost overcome by desire to put a scope on that magnificent beast. Bad timing though.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 29778


Oh, yes! I must get my 'rehomed' Norfolk down to the alterations tailor to get it to fit like that. What a coat!


----------



## derum




----------



## Fading Fast

Might be a dupe of a previous post, but if not, must congratulate the wearer as there's a whole lot going here and, IMHO, it all works:


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> Might be a dupe of a previous post, but if not, must congratulate the wearer as there's a whole lot going here and, IMHO, it all works:
> View attachment 29799


100%!


----------



## 215339

Personally not for me, I feel frazzled just looking at it.

I like this one though


----------



## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> Personally not for me, I feel frazzled just looking at it.
> 
> I like this one though


⇧ That's a classic.

As to the outfit in my post - there is no way on earth I could pull all that off as that much activity in an outfit would "own" me, but I know a few guys who could carry it off without effort.

If you are a guy who can handle a lot of "busy" without getting lost in it, I thought that was some pretty well thought out and executed "busy."


----------



## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ That's a classic.
> 
> As to the outfit in my post - there is no way on earth I could pull all that off as that much activity in an outfit would "own" me, but I know a few guys who could carry it off without effort.
> 
> If you are a guy who can handle a lot of "busy" without getting lost in it, I thought that was some pretty well thought out and executed "busy."


I am in the same boat as you, I couldn't pull that off either, nor would I feel comfortable in it.

All good, we all have our differing opinions on what we like in terms of "busy".


----------



## Oldsarge

Not being the slightest bit 'of a retiring nature', I'd rock it.


----------



## Fading Fast

After yesterday's, um, bold pic, thought I'd go old-school classic today:








Love the heft of the tweed and those swelled edges.


----------



## Fading Fast

My guess is a wool-silk-linen blend based on the overall outfit:








Beautiful shoulders on the sport coat and love the Fair Isle.


----------



## Oldsarge

Agreed though the very light, Spring palette seems a little at odds with the sweater. Also, I'm not fond of the shirt and bow tie combination. IMO, it's a tad fussy, possibly even twee. However, it is a fine jacket and the sweater is most attractive.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> Agreed though the very light, Spring palette seems a little at odds with the sweater. Also, I'm not fond of the shirt and bow tie combination. IMO, it's a tad fussy, possibly even twee. However, it is a fine jacket and the sweater is most attractive.


I landed on the sweater and jacket too. As to the sweater, it's possible it's a silk or linen Fair Isle as I own one similar to the one pictured that is really light and perfect for a cool spring or even summer evening.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Quite so. But do be sure that you have purchased the suit and broken it in properly (laying it out on the drive and rolling over it a few dozen times with the Land Rover is a good start) before you show up at the butts. It doesn't do to arrive at an invited shoot in anything _new_, don'tcherknow.


----------



## 16412

My Rolls won't do?
Now I'll have tell my chauffeur to go fetch a Land Rover. Have to get the tires broke in before running over the coat.


----------



## eagle2250

^^
Have ni fear, a Ford F-150 will produce a quite similar effect...driven in 4 wheel drive, of course! LOL. Or perhaps wandering 40 days in the wilderness will adequately break-in that shooting rig? :icon_saint7kg:


----------



## Fading Fast

The tie's scale is too close to the sport coat's, IMHO, and I'd lose the PS altogether:








While too much for my wardrobe, I respect that it is one heck of a sport coat.


----------



## mreams99

I had planned to wear a blue tweed coat with this, but didn't quite like how it fit together.
Hopefully this worked, as I'm colorblind and was in a hurry!


----------



## Clintotron

mreams99 said:


> I had planned to wear a blue tweed coat with this, but didn't quite like how it fit together.
> Hopefully this worked, as I'm colorblind and was in a hurry!
> 
> View attachment 29872


I think you did quite well. I'm really liking that vest!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Oldsarge

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> Have ni fear, a Ford F-150 will produce a quite similar effect...driven in 4 wheel drive, of course! LOL. Or perhaps wandering 40 days in the wilderness will adequately break-in that shooting rig? :icon_saint7kg:


Or my next dream car, a Jeep Gladiator would do the job perfectly. It's also good for wandering 40 days in the wilderness, so long as you have the extended range tanks installed.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

I have sadly not made the time for a couple weeks to post these, last of wearing tweed suits now over 85*F (though still cold night and morning).


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ AR, your suit's material looks great

⇩ Too much flourish going on with the PS for my taste, not sure the dark grey sweater works well here and don't feel that the tie captures the vibe of the sport coat, but I love the sport coat.


----------



## Oldsarge

Agreed on all counts


----------



## Clintotron

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ AR, your suit's material looks great
> 
> ⇩ Too much flourish going on with the PS for my taste, not sure the dark grey sweater works well here and don't feel that the tie captures the vibe of the sport coat, but I love the sport coat.
> View attachment 29893


I think the sweater is too bland and the PS and tie are too matchy. The PS is too flourishing, IMO, and it reminds me of a sea anemone stuck to a coral reef.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Clintotron

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ AR, your suit's material looks great


Thank you!  Both are suits and both paid about $10 for. The herringbone is this year's and it is super soft, a bit fuzzy, and warmer than the tick suit (this was taken when going grocery shopping on a really cold day and the warmest clothes I had). Both played with less textured ties and think agree can be done if a little texture, unlike below.



Fading Fast said:


> ⇩ Too much flourish going on with the PS for my taste, not sure the dark grey sweater works well here and don't feel that the tie captures the vibe of the sport coat, but I love the sport coat.
> View attachment 29893


Think a steely blue or rusty brown pulling out the colours of the window panes be a better color for either the pullover or tie. I think rusty brown be a better choice.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 29905


I lean towards that shirt not being the best choice, feels too cold against the warm of the coat. Maybe an ivory or cream with a blue or navy knit tie (considering the flecking in the coat)?


----------



## eagle2250

^^On the contrary,


Flanderian said:


> View attachment 29905


I find myself impressed by the deft coordination of color and patterning in the rig pictured above. To my eye the shirt really pops and only in a good way, visually drawing one into the experience, while the hues of the tie, pocket square and jacket play more gently together complementing the overall visual effect of the combination. I would wear that rig in a heartbeat!


----------



## Fading Fast

Figured I'd get one more overcoat pic in while the weather still calls for it:


----------



## eagle2250

Everything about that rig is perfect...except for the Rugby shirt. It just looks out of place. Lose it! The overcoat is memorably good looking.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Everything about that rig is perfect...except for the Rugby shirt. It just looks out of place. Lose it! The overcoat is memorably good looking.


I'd bet it's a Ralph ad as he loves to do that type of multi-layering (I think he likes the look, plus, well, um, er, it sells more clothes).

I love the coat, too.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 29926


Impressive, yes, but I don't love large-scale houndstooth; small-scale, yes. Now, large-scale herringbone - that's an entirely different story.


----------



## Clintotron

The brown/tan houndstooth coat featured (way) above is less desirable to my eye than this one. And I’m not a black-and-white kind of guy. Strange. I do agree that large scale herringbone is fetching.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Adriel Rowley

How about large scale Glen or Urquhart check?


----------



## Oldsarge

That would be wonderful. Check my new thread on approaching warm weather.


----------



## Fading Fast

I'm not big fan of denim shirts with ties, but this kinda all works. Not something I'd wear (you have to know yourself), but still something I'd appreciate if I sat down in a bar and saw the guy a few seats down from me wearing.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> I'm not big fan of denim shirts with ties, but this kinda all works.


Kinda? Nay, it really works. Thanks for putting that up. And don't sit at a bar, you stand, and order hootch by the bottle, no glass. (It pays to have been a fan of _Gunsmoke_ as a kid and now on SiriusXM Classic Radio as a wizened adult.)


----------



## Oldsarge

Damned hard to find a stand up bar anymore. AFAICT, there are only two left in the greater Portland area.


----------



## StephenRG

Oldsarge said:


> Damned hard to find a stand up bar anymore. AFAICT, there are only two left in the greater Portland area.


Do they have guys in vests playing honky-tonk pianners as Miss Esmeralda (or some such) descends a staircase?


----------



## Oldsarge

Well, I don't know about the other place but the one I go to is my private club and we are _very_ respectable.


----------



## Peak and Pine

StephenRG said:


> Do they have guys in vests playing honky-tonk pianners as Miss Esmeralda (or some such) descends a staircase?


Kitty. It was Miss Kitty at the Long Branch.


----------



## Fading Fast

The original Palm restaurant in NYC (which, for many years, I lived only a couple of blocks from) had a standup bar, but NYC's onerous restaurant codes and renovation requirements forced the Palm to close that branch (literally, the original restaurant in the chain), so by went the standup bar.

Today, bars are, usually, a big part - upfront, many seats, several bartenders - of high-end restaurants, but back in the '40s and '50s, a lot (not all) high-end restaurants - at least those that are left in NYC that I've visited - had small standup or five-to-ten seats bars often tucked away in the back or a corner.

Below are a couple of pics of the original Palm. I couldn't find a pic that really showed the bar (it truly was small, standup only and tucked in the back), but off to the left in the first pick (to the left of the man standing in shadow) was the bar.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

The only bar I been in was when about 13 and was the only one in the family wanting to step in. Was where Teddy recruited the Rough Riders. Though can recall some Southern California restaurants having a small stand up bar; haven't seen such here in Arizona though rarely go out to eat.

What is the advantage of standing up over sitting down? 

Why in the decline?


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> I'm not big fan of denim shirts with ties, but this kinda all works. Not something I'd wear (you have to know yourself), but still something I'd appreciate if I sat down in a bar and saw the guy a few seats down from me wearing.
> View attachment 29944


I would definitely wear all of that....just not together as seen, but in combination other components to build rigs more in keeping with my tastes. I love that Chambray shirt! :happy:


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> I would definitely wear all of that....just not together as seen, but in combination other components to build rigs more in keeping with my tastes. I love that Chambray shirt! :happy:


This is a genuine question (not snark), is that shirt chambray? I think of chambray as a lighter weave closer to linen; whereas, denim is heavy twill weave.

One, is what I just said reasonably accurate? And, two, while hard to tell from just a pic, that shirt looks heavy / denim-like to me - but maybe I'm missing a tell?

I believe this would be another example of a good time to employ the Matt S Bat Signal (that I believe Andy is working on for us) - Matt?


----------



## Oldsarge

Me, too. Duluth Trading has some nice looking ones. I ordered a couple so will report back once they arrive.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> This is a genuine question (not snark), is that shirt chambray? I think of chambray as a lighter weave closer to linen; whereas, denim is heavy twill weave.
> 
> One, is what I just said reasonably accurate? And, two, while hard to tell from just a pic, that shirt looks heavy / denim-like to me - but maybe I'm missing a tell?
> 
> I believe this would be another example of a good time to employ the Matt S Bat Signal (that I believe Andy is working on for us) - Matt?


A good question and the best answer I can offer is "I don't know!" I made my original assumption based purely on the color and finish of the shirt fabric.


----------



## Clintotron

Judging by the small puckering/dimpling of the edge seams, it looks quite thin to me. Denim, even thinner denim, has wider dimples. I’d vote for chambray. I don’t care for it in this setting, probably because my dad wore one for work at the power plant and I have “dirty” and “stinky” associated with that particular color of chambray shirt. Haha!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Clintotron

To be fair, I do LOVE my chambray shirts. I have three in differing values/saturations of the same blue hue. Two have brass snaps, one has pearl snaps. I believe none of them to have button down collars. I’ll have to check when I get home.


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## Oldsarge

Button down collars with snaps? That would be interesting.


----------



## Clintotron

I’ve seen snap shirts with buttons on the collar. It wasn’t pretty.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Fading Fast

The unbuttoned top button of the vest looks weird.


----------



## eagle2250

^^
A very handsome jacket and the perfect tie to pair with it...and yes, the top button on the vest should be buttoned. Nice!


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> A very handsome jacket and the perfect tie to pair with it...and yes, the top button on the vest should be buttoned. Nice!


I, also, thought that tie paired really well with the sport coat.


----------



## Oldsarge

Some delicious tweed


----------



## Fading Fast

Love the herringbone (a B&W herringbone is my favorite type of sport coat), tie's fine in that New-England-WASP way, but the ODBD's collar is too short so it gets no roll and makes the tie's knot looked "stuffed" in.


----------



## Clintotron

Fading Fast said:


> Love the herringbone (a B&W herringbone is my favorite type of sport coat), tie's fine in that New-England-WASP way, but the ODBD's collar is too short so it gets no roll and makes the tie's knot looked "stuffed" in.
> View attachment 29995


That is certainly a WASP tie. The collar/knot is exactly as stated. Good eye.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Clintotron

Oldsarge said:


> Some delicious tweed
> 
> View attachment 29973
> View attachment 29974
> View attachment 29975


This bottom jacket is salivation-worthy.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Fading Fast




----------



## Clintotron

Color corrected.

That scarf is ludicrously perfect for life.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Fading Fast

Clintotron said:


> Color corrected.
> 
> That scarf is ludicrously perfect for life.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Much better.


----------



## eagle2250

At the risk of exposing my Cyber-dyslexia, Clintotron, how did you do that? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Clintotron

eagle2250 said:


> At the risk of exposing my Cyber-dyslexia, Clintotron, how did you do that? :icon_scratch:


I'd typed out a long reply in the photography thread I started. I had extensive photo manipulation training in college when I earned my art degree (which I haven't used professionally in 15 years). The photos in the other thread are completely un-retouched.
To answer specifically, I used a photoshop feature that turns white the closest-to-white object and then corrects the entire picture the same way.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Clintotron

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 30031


Darn near the same jacket as pictured above. Fantastic.


----------



## eagle2250

Clintotron said:


> I'd typed out a long reply in the photography thread I started. I had extensive photo manipulation training in college when I earned my art degree (which I haven't used professionally in 15 years). The photos in the other thread are completely un-retouched.
> To answer specifically, I used a photoshop feature that turns white the closest-to-white object and then corrects the entire picture the same way.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Thanks for the clarification and be sure, you may color me as impressed...I admire your skill! :beer:


----------



## Fading Fast

A Sunday double feature.


----------



## eagle2250

^^
Tweed porn...on a Sunday afternoon. Honestly, the closet shot put a lump in my throat and brought a tear to my eye. Such is the relationship I used to enjoy with my Tweed collection!


----------



## Clintotron

Fading Fast said:


> A Sunday double feature.
> View attachment 30038
> View attachment 30039


That tie/tweed combo is purely magical.

The "closet shot" makes me want to purchase derelict coats and learn to sew. The result? A (hopefully) tasteful patchwork tweed jacket. Simply because I can't wear all those beautiful tweed jackets at once and they look splendid hanging together.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Fading Fast

Love the width and weight of that cuff:


----------



## Clintotron

Fading Fast said:


> Love the width and weight of that cuff:
> View attachment 30069


It is impossibly difficult to find tweed trousers in my size (inseam), let alone with enough material for cuffs.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Fading Fast

Clintotron said:


> It is impossibly difficult to find tweed trousers in my size (inseam), let alone with enough material for cuffs.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Two thoughts: (1) how tall are you? and (2) MTM.


----------



## Clintotron

Fading Fast said:


> Two thoughts: (1) how tall are you? and (2) MTM.


I'm 6'4", but I have longer-than-average legs with an inseam of 38".

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## Oldsarge

Clintotron said:


> I'm 6'4", but I have longer-than-average legs with an inseam of 38".
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Definitely MTM. I recommend MyTailor.com


----------



## Fading Fast

Clintotron said:


> I'm 6'4", but I have longer-than-average legs with an inseam of 38".
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Holy smokes that a long inseam. As Sarge notes - MTM. At least today, there are a lot of MTM options.


----------



## Clintotron

I like the tattersall.









Don't care for the shirt and tie, but the jacket is quite nice.









Sloppy dress is quickly ignored at the sight/play of the fabrics.









That Fair Isle is gonna put me right back on the wagon. Or off the wagon. I can never remember how that goes...

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## Fading Fast

Clintotron said:


> That Fair Isle is gonna put me right back on the wagon. Or off the wagon. I can never remember how that goes...
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


That Fair Isle with that jacket is incredible.


----------



## Matt S

Fading Fast said:


> This is a genuine question (not snark), is that shirt chambray? I think of chambray as a lighter weave closer to linen; whereas, denim is heavy twill weave.
> 
> One, is what I just said reasonably accurate? And, two, while hard to tell from just a pic, that shirt looks heavy / denim-like to me - but maybe I'm missing a tell?
> 
> I believe this would be another example of a good time to employ the Matt S Bat Signal (that I believe Andy is working on for us) - Matt?


Sorry, I missed this one before. You can use the "@Matt S" to reach me better.

I agree that this looks like denim. Chambray is woven in a plain weave while denim is woven in a twill weave. Both are most commonly woven in blue and white, and thus look similar. I wouldn't compare it to linen as linen is a fibre (like chambray's cotton) and can be woven in a plain or a twill weave. But chambray is comparable to linen in that it is usually a lightweight and breathable casual shirt. A denim shirt will not be very breathable. I would not pair a chambray shirt with tweed because it is a warm-weather shirt, but denim is a cool-weather fabric and is more appropriate with tweed.

Personally, I'll stick with a blue and white pinpoint or oxford shirt for that two-tone but dressier look.


----------



## Fading Fast

Matt S said:


> Sorry, I missed this one before. You can use the "@Matt S" to reach me better.
> 
> I agree that this looks like denim. Chambray is woven in a plain weave while denim is woven in a twill weave. Both are most commonly woven in blue and white, and thus look similar. I wouldn't compare it to linen as linen is a fibre (like chambray's cotton) and can be woven in a plain or a twill weave. But chambray is comparable to linen in that it is usually a lightweight and breathable casual shirt. A denim shirt will not be very breathable. I would not pair a chambray shirt with tweed because it is a warm-weather shirt, but denim is a cool-weather fabric and is more appropriate with tweed.
> 
> Personally, I'll stick with a blue and white pinpoint or oxford shirt for that two-tone but dressier look.


Sure @Matt S will work, but your awesome, detailed and comprehensive response is why we need something more immediate, something more dramatic, something more superhero - it's why we need the *Matt S Signal* at AAAC.

Thank you Matt - great info.


----------



## Matt S

Fading Fast said:


> Sure @Matt S will work, but your awesome, detailed and comprehensive response is why we need something more immediate, something more dramatic, something more superhero - it's why we need the *Matt S Signal* at AAAC.
> 
> Thank you Matt - great info.


Thank you for having such confidence in me!


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Clintotron said:


> Don't care for the shirt and tie, but the jacket is quite nice.


Why don't you like the tie? Too bright?

My thinking be a bright rust or rust tie with a cream shirt.


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## Fading Fast




----------



## Clintotron

Adriel Rowley said:


> Why don't you like the tie? Too bright?
> 
> My thinking be a bright rust or rust tie with a cream shirt.


The shirt and tie say "spring/summer" to me, whereas the jacket says "autumn/winter".

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Flanderian




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## Oldsarge

I like that, though the only place I can imagine wearing it would be to a traditional pub.


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## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

^^
That, my friend, is one very special tweed. Might we assume that we are looking a two components of a three piece suit? :icon_scratch:


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## Clintotron

The overcoat's lapel is a bit wide for my taste.








Interesting wear of a tartan jacket.








The source claims Harris Tweed, I do not know the credibility of the source. I DO know I want it.








I think the subdued nature of the waistcoat, shirt, and tie tame the otherwise wild pattern of the jacket.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## StephenRG

Clintotron said:


> I think the subdued nature of the waistcoat, shirt, and tie tame the otherwise wild pattern of the jacket.


That's too much even for me. Plain tie, plain PS - and I'd only wear a waistcoat if the jacket still fit over it, which it evidently does not here.


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## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> That, my friend, is one very special tweed. Might we assume that we are looking a two components of a three piece suit? :icon_scratch:


I hope so.



Clintotron said:


> Interesting wear of a tartan jacket.


Agreed. The vest, IMO, is one thing (and one color) too many. If a vest is needed, a solid sweater one in some shade of grey* (I'd have to see the different shades and tones against everything else to really say) that didn't call attention to itself would be better.

Just a guess, but this looks Ralph Lauren to me. Love the shirt, tie, jacket pants - really good, not obvious, combo.

*A navy one might - need to see it first - work also.


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## Oldsarge

I would prefer the vest to match the trousers. Still, it's the best ensemble of the lot.


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## Oldsarge




----------



## Elessarcif

Now that I am living in Florida I have about 2 days a year where it is appropriate but I still want more tweed. Thank you for all the inspiration.


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## Fading Fast

A couple of vests. My tastes lean to the second one - the classic look:


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## eagle2250

Elessarcif said:


> Now that I am living in Florida I have about 2 days a year where it is appropriate but I still want more tweed. Thank you for all the inspiration.


Welcome to the "Sunshine State!" Are you a snowbird or a full year resident?


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## Elessarcif

eagle2250 said:


> Welcome to the "Sunshine State!" Are you a snowbird or a full year resident?


Full year resident up near Destin. As a former Minnesotan 70 degree winter days are offensive.


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## eagle2250

Elessarcif said:


> Full year resident up near Destin. As a former Minnesotan 70 degree winter days are offensive.


LOL. I understand completely. Coming up on our fourth summer here, we still struggle with the summer heat and humidity.


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## Elessarcif

eagle2250 said:


> LOL. I understand completely. Coming up on our fourth summer here, we still struggle with the summer heat and humidity.


Yes I am not prepared for it but I am starting to prepare for 500 dollar electricity bills this summer because my wife refuses to turn down the A/C. I knew I was in trouble when she turned it on in December.


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## Oldsarge

And that's why I moved _north_ in retirement!


----------



## eagle2250

Elessarcif said:


> Yes I am not prepared for it but I am starting to prepare for 500 dollar electricity bills this summer because my wife refuses to turn down the A/C. I knew I was in trouble when she turned it on in December.


You may be pleasantly surprised. The rates here are less than on our electric bills in NW Indiana. Cooling roughly 2400 square feet to 74 degrees year round, we have never had an electric bill go over $200 a month...even July, August, September! :cold:


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ In the Northeast, with our electric rates, running an AC is like taking a match to a pile of money.

⇩ Back to our regularly scheduled programming (might be a dupe, but hope not):








The vest is too much for me, but the suit is outstanding.


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## Oldsarge

Oh I love the combination! Tattersall and tweed? With ticket pocket? How equestrian can you get, though it could do with a horse-ier tie.


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## Fading Fast

A couple of modern-feel ones (not even sure they are tweed). I'm a classics guy, so not really for me, but anything that keeps this generation dressing better than sweats/jeans/"joggers" is a good thing:

















And just so that we have one today that we absolutely know is tweed:


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## Clintotron

My life suddenly requires this for sustenance.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Fading Fast

Clintotron said:


> My life suddenly requires this for sustenance.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


This one ⇧ is solidifying a rule that's been forming in my head over months of following this thread:

If a fabric can do double duty as either a shooting jacket or a horse blanket, you know you have your hands on a very special tweed.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

That's nice, but if I owned that I would sew a small cushion onto the underside of the right lapel so when closed-up the button imprints wouldn't show, but then the cushion would show so forget about it


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## Clintotron

I’d just enjoy the character of the piece by letting it be. Also, I don’t see myself wearing it as shown.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Peak and Pine

Last Sunday. Or tomorrow. Take your pick.


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ based on this and other pictures you've posted, you have a valuable talent: an ability to develop a style that is yours - it's not by the numbers, but it works very well for you, in part, because you look very comfortable in it. Well done.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^ 

If I gave you a Like, it would be back slapping myself. So just thanks.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Clintotron

Peak and Pine said:


> Last Sunday. Or tomorrow. Take your pick.


This picture isn't loading for me. Anyone else having an issue?

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## eagle2250

^^I have not been able to bring it up either.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Don't know what to tell you. It was downloaded here via Google Photos from my laptop at a hot spot, showed up then and shows up now at home on Android Galaxy SkyPro J7. Sarge, Dana and FF apparently got it. But no fret, pic is no big deal, me in an oversize tweed. Staring at your walls is more exciting. Try that.


----------



## Fading Fast

A way to check if the photo add function is working and to post this full-on look:


----------



## Peak and Pine

This space once occupied by a post which went crazy all too quick.


----------



## krock

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> Don't know what to tell you. It was downloaded here via Google Photos from my laptop at a hot spot, showed up then and shows up now at home on Android Galaxy SkyPro J7. Sarge, Dana and FF apparently got it. But no fret, pic is no big deal, me in an oversize tweed. Staring at your walls is more exciting. Try that.


 I once had the same problem with google photos. Shown OK to you as you are signed into Google. Other forum members may see nothing, likely due to Google security/sharing settings. I even would suggest that Sarge, Dana and FF might be in your google contact list, so they can see your photos.
I had to download the files from Google and re-upload them as attachments from local files.


----------



## Woofa

Picked up this oxxford beauty last week in the salvation army.


----------



## ran23

Still a chill in the air, tweed vest over light blue gingham.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> A way to check if the photo add function is working and to post this full-on look:
> View attachment 30174


My word. A intelligently designed, serious shooting jacket. Buttons to hold the shell pockets open for easy access? Brilliant.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> My word. A intelligently designed, serious shooting jacket. Buttons to hold the shell pockets open for easy access? Brilliant.


That ascot is perfect for the jacket.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> Buttons to hold the shell pockets open for easy access? Brilliant.


Thank you for pointing that out. I missed it. Not a gun guy. But am drawn to the uniquely practical, especially if its custom, more so if one of a kind. Don't think I'll be carrying ammo though. But the flap hold-up button might come in handy when experiencing a Little Debbie rush.

**************

Back to the drawing board on posting pics, may have to scrap Google Photos. Would like to figure this out on my own. Had not posted anything for 2+ years and back then Google's Picasa had a simple up and down load feature. Google no longer supports Picasa, in the same way GM no longer supports the '59 Cadillac, but both are still available and much desired. Have no plans to abandon Picasa, for its photo processing software, which is a true delight, but will need new photo sharing program. Suggestions accepted, but it has to plop the pic right into AAAC full size, no clicking to enlarge or traveling to a special site with right and left arrows or, worse yet, a free site that in exchange for slapping pics up, places semi-porno ads at the bottom. Thank ye all, and you @krock for your info. Come back and explain that last part about reuploading them as attachments from local files. Like huh?, the writer said.

(The icon of a non-posting image at post top has nothing to do with any of this. There's nothing behind it and can't seem to get rid of it,)


----------



## krock

Peak and Pine said:


> Thank ye all, and you @krock for your info. Come back and explain that last part about reuploading them as attachments from local files. Like huh?, the writer said.
> 
> (The icon of a non-posting image at post top has nothing to do with any of this. There's nothing behind it and can't seem to get rid of it,)


I saved the files from Google photos locally and then used Upload a Fle button in the post form.


----------



## Fading Fast

Let's ease into the week with some fabrics to check out:


----------



## Oldsarge

I have a coat of #6 from the top. It's wonderful.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> I have a coat of #6 from the top. It's wonderful.


That was the one that most caught my attention. I think it would make a great pair of wide-legged trousers too.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Peak and Pine

Yes I know, it's not tweed. Get over it. There's a tweed beneath that Wreck of the Hesperus sea coat. Maybe. *The above is a picture posting test.* If you see it, toot or wave or gimme a Yes here below.


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> Yes I know, it's not tweed. Get over it. There's a tweed beneath that Wreck of the Hesperus sea coat. Maybe. *The above is a picture posting test.* If you see it, toot or wave or gimme a Yes here below.


Yes - pic is visible.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Thank you. But I'm not sure you count And I say that in a kindly way. Or am trying to. It's just that you got the other one and few others did. Got a PM from a friend member in Wales who couldn't get the other. And you know how desperately I'm trying to get my stuff into Wales. Anyhow, thanks for your quick response. And toot when you go by.


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> Thank you. But I'm not sure you count And I say that in a kindly way. Or am trying to. It's just that you got the other one and few others did. Got a PM from a friend member in Wales who couldn't get the other. And you know how desperately I'm trying to get my stuff into Wales. Anyhow, thanks for your quick response. And toot when you go by.


I'm 54 years old in a youth culture, I haven't counted in about 20 years.


----------



## eagle2250

I can see a great picture of a rather handsome gentleman who looks like he could be Gary Sinise's father, wearing a classic Trench coat!


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Yea, it works.
Thanks for the affirmation.
Sinese, eh? So you don't think it has a Loretta Young vibe?
Darn.


----------



## Oldsarge

I see it and I like the From the Pinery card, too.


----------



## Fading Fast

I don't think it is, but my apologies if this is a repeat:


----------



## eagle2250

I really love that Tweed. Years ago, back in the early 1970's I had a Tweed Jacket of very similar design (with more brown and less green in the hue) that I wore to knock back the winter chill.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> I don't think it is, but my apologies if this is a repeat:
> View attachment 30246


That reminds me to take my 'rehomed' Norfolk to the alterations tailor.


----------



## Fading Fast

I love the colors in this outfit - not monotone, but very quietly harmonized. Also, the thickness of the tweed jacket is outstanding:


----------



## Fading Fast

I'm not a fan of this combo, but I was looking for a tweed that works for Easter and I'd say this sport coat does that.


----------



## StephenRG

Fading Fast said:


> I'm not a fan of this combo, but I was looking for a tweed that works for Easter and I'd say this sport coat does that.


I realise that I do not like cutaway collars with tweed - to me they seem too dressy for tweed. Personal idiosyncrasy, I suspect.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> I'm not a fan of this combo, but I was looking for a tweed that works for Easter and I'd say this sport coat does that.
> View attachment 30318


Is that Herringbone pattern of purple and white or brown and white. If purple, not no, but hell no! However, purple and white were the color of my old high school.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Is that Herringbone pattern of purple and white or brown and white. If purple, not no, but hell no! However, purple and white were the color of my old high school.


I basically have two color themes in my wardrobe - grey and beige, so a maroon or purple & white herringbone isn't my thing, but for Easter Sunday, with a white shirt, light-or-medium grey trousers, white bucks and a tie I'd have to figure out (thinking heavy knit in a solid color - maybe navy - just not sure) - I think I'd like it.


----------



## g3org3y

StephenRG said:


> I realise that I do not like cutaway collars with tweed - to me they seem too dressy for tweed. Personal idiosyncrasy, I suspect.


I've also seen written that one should avoid pairing a formal white shirt with tweed for the same reason.


----------



## Fading Fast

g3org3y said:


> I've also seen written that one should avoid pairing a formal white shirt with tweed for the same reason.


I agree overall, if going white, I'd go OCBD or similar heavy and textured fabric.


----------



## frydeswide

Peak and Pine said:


> Yes I know, it's not tweed. Get over it. There's a tweed beneath that Wreck of the Hesperus sea coat. Maybe. *The above is a picture posting test.* If you see it, toot or wave or gimme a Yes here below.


Toot!


----------



## Clintotron

Fading Fast said:


> I'm not a fan of this combo, but I was looking for a tweed that works for Easter and I'd say this sport coat does that.
> View attachment 30318


Definitely acceptable for a Derby or Roaring '20s party.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Fading Fast

Continuing with our theme of tweed for Easter (I don't know if I can find two more day's worth):


----------



## StephenRG

Fading Fast said:


> Continuing with our theme of tweed for Easter (I don't know if I can find two more day's worth):
> View attachment 30340


Love the cut


----------



## Oldsarge

This Easter I am not upgraded to that wonderful degree. But wait 'til next year!


----------



## Fading Fast

Maybe could be worked into an Easter outfit (I'm struggling here as Easter and tweed is tough - one more day to go):








I don't like the tie with it as the texture and tone is wrong for the suit IMO.


----------



## Oldsarge

Agreed. Something in light weight wool or subdued linen would work much better. Or a rough silk in a game print, of course.


----------



## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> Let's ease into the week with some fabrics to check out:
> View attachment 30214


I want a balmacaan in the top fabric


----------



## Oldsarge

I have a coat coming in something that resembles the second.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Maybe could be worked into an Easter outfit (I'm struggling here as Easter and tweed is tough - one more day to go):
> View attachment 30363
> 
> I don't like the tie with it as the texture and tone is wrong for the suit IMO.


 Sadly, for some, Tweed is just not an Easter option! In any event, Happy Easter to all.


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ I hear ya - but if you buy into the silk-cotton-linen "rough" weave can be a tweed, well then, but I can hear Matt S saying that's not really tweed.

And, thankfully, the last tweed for Easter I have to do as it's been a bear to find them. 








My goal for today is to eat too much candy (I will be successful).

Happy Easter everyone.


----------



## Oldsarge

These don't work for Easter but . . .


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ I hear ya - but if you buy into the silk-cotton-linen "rough" weave can be a tweed, well then, but I can hear Matt S saying that's not really tweed.
> 
> And, thankfully, the last tweed for Easter I have to do as it's been a bear to find them.
> View attachment 30375
> 
> My goal for today is to eat too much candy (I will be successful).
> 
> Happy Easter everyone.


The jacket is certainly a Tweed, but would the hue of that Tweed be mauve or more accurately, pinkish purple? :crazy:


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> The jacket is certainly a Tweed, but would the hue of that Tweed be mauve or more accurately, pinkish purple? :crazy:


I'm not taking on "Easter Tweed" again next year.

That said, don't take anything I say seriously right now as I'm high on Easter candy sugar.


----------



## Clintotron

eagle2250 said:


> The jacket is certainly a Tweed, but would the hue of that Tweed be mauve or more accurately, pinkish purple? :crazy:


I'd say a slightly muted magenta. Perhaps fuchsia?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## 215339

Oldsarge said:


> I have a coat coming in something that resembles the second.


do provide pictures please


----------



## Oldsarge

delicious_scent said:


> do provide pictures please


It will look like this:


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ that is a beautiful jacket - can't wait to see yours.

I love the "rough hewn" and worn feel of this ⇩


----------



## Fading Fast

Before it gets warm everywhere, another overcoat in a combo we don't usually see in overcoats: camel-colored tweed herringbone. Love the raglan sleeve and big throat latch.


----------



## eagle2250

^^
Tweed over tweed? Oh my, that would be a stiflingly warm combination. I would have to spend a small fortune turning the A/C low enough to comfortably tolerate such! Perhaps I should content myself with just looking at the pretty pictures. LOL.


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ In the Northeast, I wear tweed over tweed from late fall to early spring as it's great protection from the cold outside and, of course, the overcoat comes off inside. That said, can't see much use for T over T where you live.


----------



## Clintotron

At our Mardi Gras parade I wore a VERY heavy wool overcoat with a tweed jacket and vest under. Here's a photograph:









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Clintotron, those are really good looking items.

⇩ Love the classic grey herringbone three-piece. I'd lose the PS, but that's just me.


----------



## Oldsarge

I not only like the PS, I'd add a maroon oncidium boutonniere. But I admit to having a thing for boutonniere's, especially small orchids.


----------



## Fading Fast

I wouldn't have gone with that vest as the jacket brings more than enough punch. I think it would work much better with a solid vest.

Also, does anyone else notice that there seems to be an "extra" line of vest material seeming to show between the body of the vest and the lining of the sport coat (on both sides)?








Also, love the tie and PS with it - proving I'm not a PS hater. Shirt needs a longer collar though with that sport coat lapel - proving I can nitpick with the best of them.


----------



## eagle2250

^^
When I see a sport coat, paired with a matching vest (be they Tweed or otherwise), I almost invariably find myself thinking I am looking at to components of a three piece suit. Although the sport coat and vest do go rather nicely with the trousers in your picture.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> I wouldn't have gone with that vest as the jacket brings more than enough punch. I think it would work much better with a solid vest.
> 
> Also, does anyone else notice that there seems to be an "extra" line of vest material seeming to show between the body of the vest and the lining of the sport coat (on both sides)?
> View attachment 30489
> 
> Also, love the tie and PS with it - proving I'm not a PS hater. Shirt needs a longer collar though with that sport coat lapel - proving I can nitpick with the best of them.


Could this possibly be a DB overcoat over a matching sport coat and vest with odd trousers? That's what it looks like to me though I've never seen an overcoat with a ticket pocket. Of course, I rarely see overcoats at all.

Anyway, on the title of this thread, I fear my own tweed season is coming/has come to an end. Yesterday I switched out all my woolies for linen/poplin/tropical worsted. It seems Spring has made a reluctant appearance in the PNW.


----------



## Clintotron

Oldsarge said:


> Could this possibly be a DB overcoat over a matching sport coat and vest with odd trousers? That's what it looks like to me though I've never seen an overcoat with a ticket pocket. Of course, I rarely see overcoats at all.
> 
> Anyway, on the title of this thread, I fear my own tweed season is coming/has come to an end. Yesterday I switched out all my woolies for linen/poplin/tropical worsted. It seems Spring has made a reluctant appearance in the PNW.


You may very well be correct in your assumption. In addition to the ticket pocket, a PS on an overcoat seems odd, as well. I like the vest/pant combo, too. I like the material of the potential overcoat, but I'm not a fan of double breasted anything aside from a pea coat. Call me weird. I get called worse on a daily basis.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Oldsarge

Looks like Expedition Tweed to me.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> Could this possibly be a DB overcoat over a matching sport coat and vest with odd trousers? That's what it looks like to me though I've never seen an overcoat with a ticket pocket. Of course, I rarely see overcoats at all.
> 
> Anyway, on the title of this thread, I fear my own tweed season is coming/has come to an end. Yesterday I switched out all my woolies for linen/poplin/tropical worsted. It seems Spring has made a reluctant appearance in the PNW.





Clintotron said:


> You may very well be correct in your assumption. In addition to the ticket pocket, a PS on an overcoat seems odd, as well. I like the vest/pant combo, too. I like the material of the potential overcoat, but I'm not a fan of double breasted anything aside from a pea coat. Call me weird. I get called worse on a daily basis.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Kudos, now that you say it, it looks obvious - good call gentlemen.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 30546


The only quibble is the belt loop not aligning perfectly with the plaid. Over all, a pleasant Norfolk, appreciate sharing.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 30546


Except for the aforementioned misalignment, _Oh man_!


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> Except for the aforementioned misalignment, _Oh man_!


I had you in mind when I saw it - it has Oldsarge written all over it.


----------



## Oldsarge

It does, it does!


----------



## Oldsarge

But now a word from the ladies:


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ one of the reasons it works so well - besides her being so darn cute - is that the clothes are well tailored and scaled to her body. Many times, when women wear men's style clothing, they are poorly tailored or proportioned.


----------



## Oldsarge

Quite so. Fit is 90% of looking good . . . besides what you're born with, of course.


----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> It does, it does!


The jacket does have a certain military air about it. Memorably handsome threads!


----------



## Oldsarge

The proposed new Army 'dress greens' have returned to that cut and the WWII olive drab coat with tan trousers. I really like it--though not enough to want to attempt to reenlist . . . I mean, I'd have to give up the beard!


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> The proposed new Army 'dress greens' have returned to that cut and the WWII olive drab coat with tan trousers. I really like it--though not enough to want to attempt to reenlist . . . I mean, I'd have to give up the beard!
> View attachment 30551


Interesting the belt covers the buttons and her sleeves to me look too long (men also a touch as no fabric).

I have Grandpa's pinks. Interesting in this case a dress jacket over, is that the way it was in WW2? The only other piece of WW2 uniform is a green field jacket (no headwear of any kind).

Chuckled about the beard. My Uncle is a Navy vet and during his service had a full beard (yet gives me grief about my facial hair). Chuckle because have had the thought how I do if had joined the ROTC (Oma wouldn't allow) and if the facial hair come back. Me thinks too tweedy for military service. 

Why did the Norfolk have a belt?


----------



## eagle2250

"Why did the Norfolk have a belt?" 

My guess is it is an example of the garment designers creative license. The belt does not appear to serve a functional purpose, but it sure looks impressive!


----------



## Fading Fast

And for this fan of herringbone:


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Sigh...in Austin it is definitely Madras and seersucker season. If the POD said “tweeds” I’d have to feign illness and report to sick bay.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

TKI67 said:


> Sigh...in Austin it is definitely Madras and seersucker season. If the POD said "tweeds" I'd have to feign illness and report to sick bay.


Which one of these is correct for the meaning you were intending? 

POD Proof Of Delivery
POD Pay On Demand
POD Print On Demand
POD Payable on Death _(band name)_
POD Payable on Death
POD Picture of the Day
POD Pick of Destiny _(Tenacious D movie/album/song)_
POD Peroxidase
POD Plan of Development _(land development; various organizations)_
POD Place of Duty
POD Prince Of Darkness
POD Prevention of Depression _(therapy)_
POD Permission of the Department _(various locations)_
POD Progression of Disease
POD Pot of Duality _(Yu-Gi-Oh trading card)_
POD Probability Of Detection
POD Paper on Demand _(various organizations)_
POD Plain Old Documentation _(Perl)_
POD Power on Demand _(energy)_
POD Plan Of the Day
POD Point of Dispensing
POD Point of Departure
POD Production on Demand _(manufacturing)_
POD People and Organizational Development _(various organizations)_
POD Performance Optimized Data _(various organizations)_
POD Plain Old Documentation
POD Personal on Demand
POD Packet of Disconnect
POD Point of Deployment
POD Play on Demand
POD Publishing on Demand
POD Personal Option Digital
POD Ping of Death
POD Personal Open Directory
POD Primary Output Device
POD Power on Diagnostics
POD Portable on Demand
POD Plain Old Data
POD Point of Difference
POD Postoperative Day
POD Point of Distribution
POD Piece Of Data
POD Passed Out Drunk
POD Ping of Death _(type of hacking/network attack)_
POD Publish on Demand
POD Port Of Debarkation
POD Proper Orthogonal Decomposition
POD Perioral Dermatitis
POD Production Operator Dashboard
POD Port of Discharge _(shipping)_
POD Post Office Department
POD Plain Old Data _(programming, especially C++)_
POD Point of Deployment _(module; television cable industry)_
POD Point-Of-Deployment _(cable TV)_
POD Point of Divergence _(alternate history)_
POD Post Of Duty
POD Power of Darkness
POD Processing of Data
POD Port of Departure
POD Problem of the Day
POD Proof Of Deposit
POD Path Of Daggers
POD Pacific Ocean Division _(USACE)_
POD Point of Destination _(navigation)_
POD Payload Operations Director _(US NASA)_
POD Professional Organizational Development _(various organizations)_
POD Pay On Delivery
POD Precise Orbit Determination
POD Point of Development
POD Plain Old Document
POD Payment on Delivery
POD Point of Discharge
POD Presbytery of Detroit _(Michigan)_
POD Pouch of Douglas
POD Point of Destruction _(computer gaming clan)_
POD Party of Death _(book)_
POD Physician-Owned Distributorship
POD Programmatorische Overheidsdienst
POD Play on Demand _(Line 6)_
POD Pelagic Organism Decline
POD Personnel On Duty
POD Probability Of Damage
POD Parts on Demand
POD Pay or Die _(role playing game)_
POD Payload Operations Division _(US NASA)_
POD Proof of Design
POD Pool of Darkness _(Dungeons & Dragons computer game)_
POD Pin on Disc
POD Plane of Disease _(gaming)_
POD Point of Demarcation
POD Per Our Discussion
POD Protective Oceanic Device
POD Paracetamol Overdose
POD Perception of Dyspnea _(pulmonology)_
POD Peacock Obsessive Disorder
POD Pirated Optical Disc
POD Playable on Death _(band)_
POD Parent Of the Day
POD Priest of Discord _(Everquest)_
POD Peace Out Dawg
POD Parachute Opening Device
POD Permissible Operating Distance
POD Processor on Demand
POD Post Operation Day
POD Porpoise Detector _(static acoustic monitoring instrument)_
POD Pendulum of Doom _(World of Warcraft)_
POD Phase Opposition Disposition
POD Protection on Demand
POD Project Overview Document
POD Post-Orgasmic Disgust
POD Product of Desire _(UK clothing company)_
POD Proof of Development
POD Programmable Option Devices
POD Post-Orgasmic Depression
POD Place of Dolphins _(chat server)_
POD Patient Own Drugs
POD Process Oriented Description
POD Point of Disconnection
POD Planar Optical Display
POD Percent of Decrease
POD Project Operations Director
POD Point Of Destitution
POD Process Operational Diagram
POD Package Outline Drawing
POD Past Over Dosed
POD Packet Over DSL
POD Planar Orthogonal Drawing
POD Programmer on Duty _(help desk)_
POD Program Objectives Document _(DCAA)_
POD Program Operation Description
POD Pfeffer Outpatient Disability Scale
POD protocol option device
POD Pious or Overly Devotional _(blog slang)_
POD Perspectives of Difference
POD Post-Operation Debriefing
POD Program Operational Date
POD Point/Port of Delivery
POD Procurement Office Desktop
POD Personal Obligation Day
POD Phase-Only Digitized
POD Pressure Operated Directional _(valve)_
POD Personal Operable Device
POD Personnel Observation Device _(surveillance camera)_
POD Profit on Differences _(investing)_

This is the first day the outdoor temperature at 7:30 exceeded the indoor temperature. So far, with the 30 gallons of water thermal mass, have only needed to turn on the aircon in the evenings to cool to 70*F for the night (much colder than desired though charges the thermal mass, sleep better when cold, and allows the aircon to be turned off); aircon off until the next evening. Been getting up to the high 90s so obviously the thermal mass is working. Suffice to say no tweed here either now that the mornings are comfortable.


----------



## Oldsarge

I'm guessing he meant Plan Of the Day.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> I'm guessing he meant Plan Of the Day.


Hopefully understood not all privy to abbreviations, especially when context not clear.


----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> I'm guessing he meant Plan Of the Day.


My guess would be Proof of Delivery. :icon_scratch:


----------



## Oldsarge

Some more for the distaff echelon.


----------



## Clintotron

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Clintotron

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ I hear ya - but if you buy into the silk-cotton-linen "rough" weave can be a tweed, well then, but I can hear Matt S saying that's not really tweed.
> 
> And, thankfully, the last tweed for Easter I have to do as it's been a bear to find them.
> View attachment 30375
> 
> My goal for today is to eat too much candy (I will be successful).
> 
> Happy Easter everyone.


A day late and a dollar short, I offer an Easter tweed, if not fit for the Kentucky Derby.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## derum

Tweed on the Tweed.


----------



## Fading Fast

Clintotron said:


> A day late and a dollar short, I offer an Easter tweed, if not fit for the Kentucky Derby.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


That is the most-Easter Tweed yet. I'd say "well done," but that doesn't quite capture the sentiment of winning this competition, maybe, just a "you've won" and we all move on and back to our regularly scheduled Tweed programing.


----------



## Clintotron

Fading Fast said:


> That is the most-Easter Tweed yet. I'd say "well done," but that doesn't quite capture the sentiment of winning this competition, maybe, just a "you've won" and we all move on and back to our regularly scheduled Tweed programing.


My open affair with tweed lingers on, even as the highs near 90°F. If I'd known of this item's size, location, and availability sooner, I'd be sporting it for the Kentucky Derby party my sister in law throws. (I don't know of its size, location, or availability)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Fading Fast

Clintotron said:


> My open affair with tweed lingers on, even as the highs near 90°F. If I'd known of this item's size, location, and availability sooner, I'd be sporting it for the Kentucky Derby party my sister in law throws. (I don't know of its size, location, or availability)
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


The Derby, from what I can tell from TV, (and Derby parties) is one of those rules-unto-itself events where that jacket would be far from the most dramatic item there.

My girlfriend and my Derby party for two will have to make do with no particularly interesting attire, but cold Mint Juleps and Ruth Hunt candies (ordered this week).


----------



## ItalianStyle

derum said:


> Tweed on the Tweed.
> 
> View attachment 30569


I'm not an expert on tweed, but I think I would prefer if the jacket and cap were not matching completely...


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Adriel Rowley said:


> Which one of these is correct for the meaning you were intending?
> 
> POD Proof Of Delivery
> POD Pay On Demand
> POD Print On Demand
> POD Payable on Death _(band name)_
> POD Payable on Death
> POD Picture of the Day
> POD Pick of Destiny _(Tenacious D movie/album/song)_
> POD Peroxidase
> POD Plan of Development _(land development; various organizations)_
> POD Place of Duty
> POD Prince Of Darkness
> POD Prevention of Depression _(therapy)_
> POD Permission of the Department _(various locations)_
> POD Progression of Disease
> POD Pot of Duality _(Yu-Gi-Oh trading card)_
> POD Probability Of Detection
> POD Paper on Demand _(various organizations)_
> POD Plain Old Documentation _(Perl)_
> POD Power on Demand _(energy)_
> POD Plan Of the Day
> POD Point of Dispensing
> POD Point of Departure
> POD Production on Demand _(manufacturing)_
> POD People and Organizational Development _(various organizations)_
> POD Performance Optimized Data _(various organizations)_
> POD Plain Old Documentation
> POD Personal on Demand
> POD Packet of Disconnect
> POD Point of Deployment
> POD Play on Demand
> POD Publishing on Demand
> POD Personal Option Digital
> POD Ping of Death
> POD Personal Open Directory
> POD Primary Output Device
> POD Power on Diagnostics
> POD Portable on Demand
> POD Plain Old Data
> POD Point of Difference
> POD Postoperative Day
> POD Point of Distribution
> POD Piece Of Data
> POD Passed Out Drunk
> POD Ping of Death _(type of hacking/network attack)_
> POD Publish on Demand
> POD Port Of Debarkation
> POD Proper Orthogonal Decomposition
> POD Perioral Dermatitis
> POD Production Operator Dashboard
> POD Port of Discharge _(shipping)_
> POD Post Office Department
> POD Plain Old Data _(programming, especially C++)_
> POD Point of Deployment _(module; television cable industry)_
> POD Point-Of-Deployment _(cable TV)_
> POD Point of Divergence _(alternate history)_
> POD Post Of Duty
> POD Power of Darkness
> POD Processing of Data
> POD Port of Departure
> POD Problem of the Day
> POD Proof Of Deposit
> POD Path Of Daggers
> POD Pacific Ocean Division _(USACE)_
> POD Point of Destination _(navigation)_
> POD Payload Operations Director _(US NASA)_
> POD Professional Organizational Development _(various organizations)_
> POD Pay On Delivery
> POD Precise Orbit Determination
> POD Point of Development
> POD Plain Old Document
> POD Payment on Delivery
> POD Point of Discharge
> POD Presbytery of Detroit _(Michigan)_
> POD Pouch of Douglas
> POD Point of Destruction _(computer gaming clan)_
> POD Party of Death _(book)_
> POD Physician-Owned Distributorship
> POD Programmatorische Overheidsdienst
> POD Play on Demand _(Line 6)_
> POD Pelagic Organism Decline
> POD Personnel On Duty
> POD Probability Of Damage
> POD Parts on Demand
> POD Pay or Die _(role playing game)_
> POD Payload Operations Division _(US NASA)_
> POD Proof of Design
> POD Pool of Darkness _(Dungeons & Dragons computer game)_
> POD Pin on Disc
> POD Plane of Disease _(gaming)_
> POD Point of Demarcation
> POD Per Our Discussion
> POD Protective Oceanic Device
> POD Paracetamol Overdose
> POD Perception of Dyspnea _(pulmonology)_
> POD Peacock Obsessive Disorder
> POD Pirated Optical Disc
> POD Playable on Death _(band)_
> POD Parent Of the Day
> POD Priest of Discord _(Everquest)_
> POD Peace Out Dawg
> POD Parachute Opening Device
> POD Permissible Operating Distance
> POD Processor on Demand
> POD Post Operation Day
> POD Porpoise Detector _(static acoustic monitoring instrument)_
> POD Pendulum of Doom _(World of Warcraft)_
> POD Phase Opposition Disposition
> POD Protection on Demand
> POD Project Overview Document
> POD Post-Orgasmic Disgust
> POD Product of Desire _(UK clothing company)_
> POD Proof of Development
> POD Programmable Option Devices
> POD Post-Orgasmic Depression
> POD Place of Dolphins _(chat server)_
> POD Patient Own Drugs
> POD Process Oriented Description
> POD Point of Disconnection
> POD Planar Optical Display
> POD Percent of Decrease
> POD Project Operations Director
> POD Point Of Destitution
> POD Process Operational Diagram
> POD Package Outline Drawing
> POD Past Over Dosed
> POD Packet Over DSL
> POD Planar Orthogonal Drawing
> POD Programmer on Duty _(help desk)_
> POD Program Objectives Document _(DCAA)_
> POD Program Operation Description
> POD Pfeffer Outpatient Disability Scale
> POD protocol option device
> POD Pious or Overly Devotional _(blog slang)_
> POD Perspectives of Difference
> POD Post-Operation Debriefing
> POD Program Operational Date
> POD Point/Port of Delivery
> POD Procurement Office Desktop
> POD Personal Obligation Day
> POD Phase-Only Digitized
> POD Pressure Operated Directional _(valve)_
> POD Personal Operable Device
> POD Personnel Observation Device _(surveillance camera)_
> POD Profit on Differences _(investing)_
> 
> This is the first day the outdoor temperature at 7:30 exceeded the indoor temperature. So far, with the 30 gallons of water thermal mass, have only needed to turn on the aircon in the evenings to cool to 70*F for the night (much colder than desired though charges the thermal mass, sleep better when cold, and allows the aircon to be turned off); aircon off until the next evening. Been getting up to the high 90s so obviously the thermal mass is working. Suffice to say no tweed here either now that the mornings are comfortable.


So sorry. Old Sarge got it in one, the plan of the day. It is issued at the beginning of each day and, among other things, tells you what uniform to wear. We've at least confirmed that Army and Navy are in agreement. The Air Force representative has other ideas.

;0)


----------



## Fading Fast

I like almost everything but the striped shirt (when I thought it was all white, I liked it better). Also, a gold collar bar with a traditional tweed seems to be mixing city formal and country too much. But what a beautiful windowpane over a herringbone pattern. And you can almost smell the leather from those buttons.


----------



## Clintotron

Fading Fast said:


> I like almost everything but the striped shirt (when I thought it was all white, I liked it better). Also, a gold collar bar with a traditional tweed seems to be mixing city formal and country too much. But what a beautiful windowpane over a herringbone pattern. And you can almost smell the leather from those buttons.
> View attachment 30594


The tweed is fabulous. Everything else is garbage, IMO.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Oldsarge

Yes, neither the shirt, the tie nor the pocket square properly go with this tweed. For that matter, neither does the scruffy beard. Either grow a proper one or shave cleanly.


----------



## Clintotron

Oldsarge said:


> Yes, neither the shirt, the tie nor the pocket square properly go with this tweed. For that matter, neither does the scruffy beard. Either grow a proper one or shave cleanly.


I was JUST thinking about it being odd for a 13 year old to be wearing an outfit like that.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Oldsarge

:laughing:


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


>


Looks like a real-life version of those incredible Esquire illustrations (thank you Flanderian) from the 1930s.


----------



## Clintotron

I believe this is a Polo ad. Very well done, I might add.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Adriel Rowley

I'm not sure about wearing a country overcoat over a city suit, though the overcoat is amazing!


----------



## Oldsarge

It's a outfit for the suburbs, obviously.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Yes.

That's got me written all over it. Squint and you'll see a P&P logo. While it isn't any finer than previous posts and maybe a bit less so, it's the _floppiness_ of it that strikes; shirt collar, cardigan, jacket, pocket stuffed with something larger than it was trimly build to hold.

And this is the problem with the Bladen outer coat in the Late Launch thread, while appearing to never, ever having been worn and all the while being kept in some state of animation so that it arrived (a new purchase; I didn't own it a week ago) as if it had been loomed on Easter, the only tell-tale of its true age might be the collar, late 70s maybe, so all this 'newness' making it stiff as foam core, so when the Maine spring ever truly arrives I will hang it on a line, constructed for just such needs behind the Lil' House o' Duds, and wait for the rain and then the sun and the rain some more and more sun turning it every so often like lobster on a grill.

Clothes have to look lived in. Tho not slept in. (Yet, honest here, I have sometimes worn a whole new suit to bed and squirmed around in it for 7 or so hours, to break it it.)

So the posting above is my kind of gear, wouldn't switch a thing, looks comfy, looks worn, but not worn out.
I will bump the Late Launch thread one day to show details. It's a 3/4 Norfolk, betcha never heard of that, I hadn't, why I bought it.


----------



## Oldsarge

I'm with you. Wear your clothes, don't be worn by them.


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> Yes.
> 
> That's got me written all over it. Squint and you'll see a P&P logo. While it isn't any finer than previous posts and maybe a bit less so, it's the _floppiness_ of it that strikes; shirt collar, cardigan, jacket, pocket stuffed with something larger than it was trimly build to hold.
> 
> And this is the problem with the Bladen outer coat in the Late Launch thread, while appearing to never, ever having been worn and all the while being kept in some state of animation so that it arrived (a new purchase; I didn't own it a week ago) as if it had been loomed on Easter, the only tell-tale of its true age might be the collar, late 70s maybe, so all this 'newness' making it stiff as foam core, so when the Maine spring ever truly arrives I will hang it on a line, constructed for just such needs behind the Lil' House o' Duds, and wait for the rain and then the sun and the rain some more and more sun turning it every so often like lobster on a grill.
> 
> Clothes have to look lived in. Tho not slept in. (Yet, honest here, I have sometimes worn a whole new suit to bed and squirmed around in it for 7 or so hours, to break it it.)
> 
> So the posting above is my kind of gear, wouldn't switch a thing, looks comfy, looks worn, but not worn out.
> I will bump the Late Launch thread one day to show details. It's a 3/4 Norfolk, betcha never heard of that, I hadn't, why I bought it.


No secret, I lean heavily toward the Trad-side in my personal wardrobe - but enjoy seeing and being in a much wider sartorial world - so, it's probably no surprise that my favorite look in trad is a rumpled pair of heavy chinos, a worn (but not worn-out) Oxford cloth button down shirt, a "fuzzing" here and there Shetland sweater, a the-structure-is-failing-a-bit herringbone tweed sport coat and scuffed-up bucks or desert boots.

More generally, my favorite Trad look is older trad clothes casually tossed together - that so much Trad goes with Trad without trying makes it reasonably easy to do and, since the Trad ethos is to keep clothes forever, worn and rumpled natural spills out of one's closet.

That looooong opening was in support of your comments in general and the pic that prompted them. Other than the un-buttoned button-down collar - which has become too much of a "thing" today to look natural anymore (IMHO) - I enjoy the "soft" feel of the clothes in the pic and their "being used in the real world" vibe.


----------



## Oldsarge

Restraint vs. Over-the-top


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## derum




----------



## eagle2250

Indeed the deep purple vest and contrasting collar on the jacket aer arguably taking the color contrast a bit too far! Put a normal collar on the jacket and ditch that vest and, IMHO, you have something to work with.


----------



## 16412

Is it sorta like Victorian times?
Lighter colors would be better for vest and collar.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## derum




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## Fading Fast

⇧ That is a beautiful coat - simple, elegant, classic. This is not a snarky question - is that tweed? I (who post in this thread often) struggle with this as I've read the definitions and still am not sure as it seems like it can be defined narrowly or broadly.

Time to fire up the @Matt S Bat Signal?


----------



## Matt S

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ That is a beautiful coat - simple, elegant, classic. This is not a snarky question - is that tweed? I (who post in this thread often) struggle with this as I've read the definitions and still am not sure as it seems like it can be defined narrowly or broadly.
> 
> Time to fire up the @Matt S Bat Signal?
> View attachment 30758


I can't tell from that photo if it is tweed or not. That's a covert-style coat, and it could possibly be a covert herringbone cloth. It looks more like Melton to me, and I have a similar herringbone covert coat in melton. A close-up photo would help me determine if it is tweed or something else. I looked for that on Savvy Row (looks like their backdrop), but I couldn't find it. I'm guessing it's not tweed because herringbone tweed coats typically (but not always) have a bolder pattern.


----------



## Fading Fast

Matt S said:


> I can't tell from that photo if it is tweed or not. That's a covert-style coat, and it could possibly be a covert herringbone cloth. It looks more like Melton to me, and I have a similar herringbone covert coat in melton. A close-up photo would help me determine if it is tweed or something else. I looked for that on Savvy Row (looks like their backdrop), but I couldn't find it. I'm guessing it's not tweed because herringbone tweed coats typically (but not always) have a bolder pattern.


Gotham thanks you Batman. Kidding aside - much appreciated.

So are melton and covert different weaves like tweed is a weave?


----------



## Matt S

Fading Fast said:


> Gotham thanks you Batman. Kidding aside - much appreciated.
> 
> So are melton and covert different weaves like tweed is a weave?


Tweed is not a weave, it's a type of fabric that is made up of a certain type of yarn (woollen) with a certain kind of finish, but it comes in many weaves, such as even twill, herringbone, plain and barleycorn. Melton is another kind of woollen but is fulled so it is felt-like. It's woven in even twill and herringbone. Covert cloth has a steeper twill weave, and it may come in a herringbone variant. Some may consider it tweed, but I think it belongs in its own category.


----------



## derum

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ That is a beautiful coat - simple, elegant, classic. This is not a snarky question - is that tweed? I (who post in this thread often) struggle with this as I've read the definitions and still am not sure as it seems like it can be defined narrowly or broadly.
> 
> Time to fire up the @Matt S Bat Signal?
> View attachment 30758


The description (Savvy Row, as MattS confirmed) stated "grey herringbone tweed". Picture definition is not great but Usually reliable seller.


----------



## Matt S

derum said:


> The description (Savvy Row, as MattS confirmed) stated "grey herringbone tweed". Picture definition is not great but Usually reliable seller.
> View attachment 30774


Then I will accept that it is a tweed. It's not a chunky Harris Tweed, but probably a more refined one.


----------



## Fading Fast

After yesterday's discussion of Tweed (thank you Matt for sharing your impressive knowledge with us), I wanted to play it safe today and make sure the pics were really tweed (I'll return to my usual fast and looseness in future posts).

In those efforts, I stumbled onto this site which has links to several companies that make Harris Tweed accessories:

https://www.birline.com/blogs/journal/harris-tweed-accessories-classic-embodiment-of-british-style

While I can't think of when in my not-exciting lifestyle I'd wear these, I do kinda like them:









I like the gloves too (but sans the label - too much on a small item)








And well, why should the booze be uncomfortable on a cold day (again, label too much):


----------



## eagle2250

Matt S said:


> Tweed is not a weave, it's a type of fabric that is made up of a certain type of yarn (woollen) with a certain kind of finish, but it comes in many weaves, such as even twill, herringbone, plain and barleycorn. Melton is another kind of woollen but is fulled so it is felt-like. It's woven in even twill and herringbone. Covert cloth has a steeper twill weave, and it may come in a herringbone variant. Some may consider it tweed, but I think it belongs in its own category.


I find myself consistently awed by the depth of your knowledge of all manner of sartorial issues. I learn something new from your postings on almost a daily basis. Thank you for sharing this information with us.


----------



## Matt S

eagle2250 said:


> I find myself consistently awed by the depth of your knowledge of all manner of sartorial issues. I learn something new from your postings on almost a daily basis. Thank you for sharing this information with us.


Thank you! It makes me happy that my research into fabrics in appreciated!


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> After yesterday's discussion of Tweed (thank you Matt for sharing your impressive knowledge with us), I wanted to play it safe today and make sure the pics were really tweed (I'll return to my usual fast and looseness in future posts).
> 
> In those efforts, I stumbled onto this site which has links to several companies that make Harris Tweed accessories:
> 
> https://www.birline.com/blogs/journal/harris-tweed-accessories-classic-embodiment-of-british-style
> 
> While I can't think of when in my not-exciting lifestyle I'd wear these, I do kinda like them:
> View attachment 30776


So do I. And I share your quandary about their utility. Wearing them in the countryside, except possibly at table when visiting the manor, makes no sense because who'd want to clean the mud out of the tweed? And I fear that wearing them in town, especially in the US, might get you some very strange looks. But they sure are sharp!


----------



## StephenRG

Oldsarge said:


> So do I. And I share your quandary about their utility. Wearing them in the countryside, except possibly at table when visiting the manor, makes no sense because who'd want to clean the mud out of the tweed?


Let it dry and brush it off. If you never expose your tweed to mud, you're coddling it


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## Fading Fast




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## eagle2250

^^That jacket is special, for sure, but the matching, collared vest seems a bit too much. Perhaps a vest design that eliminates the collar would show better? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> ^^That jacket is special, for sure, but the matching, collared vest seems a bit too much. Perhaps a vest design that eliminates the collar would show better? :icon_scratch:


I'm guessing it's part of a full suit, but maybe not. As part of a suit, especially a tweed suit, I kinda like the collared vest as it echoes an old-school look - think "Brideshead Revisited" or "Chariots of Fire."


----------



## eagle2250

^^
Points well made! On closer inspection of the photograph of the jacket it appears that the matching pants for that three piece suit may be hanging behind ask partway below the left sleeve. Thanks for the motivation to look a bit more closely! :beer:


----------



## Fading Fast

Love the the throat latches. My first choice in the center one.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 30797


Nice!



eagle2250 said:


> ^^That jacket is special, for sure, but the matching, collared vest seems a bit too much. Perhaps a vest design that eliminates the collar would show better? :icon_scratch:


*Particularly* the collared vest!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 30835
> 
> Love the the throat latches. My first choice in the center one.


One of each. please!


----------



## Flanderian

Thou shalt not fear color!

All via Portobello Road -


----------



## derum




----------



## Clintotron

Flanderian said:


> Thou shalt not fear color!
> 
> All via Portobello Road -


Is it just me or is his ankle pretending to be a cantaloupe?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Flanderian

Clintotron said:


> Is it just me or is his ankle pretending to be a cantaloupe?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Hmm . . . ? :icon_scratch:

Gentleman's ankles do appear a bit puffy. Hope he's in good health.


----------



## Oldsarge

That's a strong sign of congestive heart disease. Not a good thing, at all.


----------



## eagle2250

You gentleman have really good eyes...
I missed that one entirely. I guess I better jack up the coffee IV drip.


----------



## Clintotron

eagle2250 said:


> You gentleman have really good eyes...
> I missed that one entirely. I guess I better jack up the coffee IV drip.


No one needs a reason to "jack up the coffee IV drip", so, by all means, please do so. 
My recently curtailed coffee intake has been met with slight relief as I've switched to a coffee blend containing chicory. 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast

So, it's May now, are we suppose to take the summer off from this thread and return in the Fall? Thoughts?

And while you're thinking:


----------



## Matt S

Fading Fast said:


> So, it's May now, are we suppose to take the summer off from this thread and return in the Fall? Thoughts?
> 
> And while you're thinking:
> View attachment 30884


I'm wearing a Donegal tweed jacket and cavalry twill trousers today. I thought it was still cool enough (low 60s), but I was wrong.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

A frigid 65 degrees F here, planning to get out the tweed sport coat when go run errands. Rained yesterday morning and again this morning. Love to have carvery twill, hopefully the flannel is warm enough.


----------



## paxonus

Flanderian said:


> Thou shalt not fear color!
> 
> All via Portobello Road -


This is Jeeves from Tweedland.

https://tweedlandthegentlemansclub.blogspot.com/2019/05/jeeves-and-his-wife-in-delft-video-st.html


----------



## ran23

69 here but 82 later. visiting neighbors soon, maybe chinos and OCBD. skip the jacket.


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## Adriel Rowley

ran23 said:


> 69 here but 82 later. visiting neighbors soon, maybe chinos and OCBD. skip the jacket.


Perfect for a silk sport coat, warm when cold though cool when warm out. Got mine for $4 at Goodwill and don't know how could be without.

Have fun. Neighbors here don't visit, as prickly as the landscape.


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## Fading Fast

Since it seems there were no objections to seasonal issues, let's all just carry on with the Tweeds:








The mixed buttons on the same sleeve looks odd - no?


----------



## Clintotron

Fading Fast said:


> Since it seems there were no objections to seasonal issues, let's all just carry on with the Tweeds:
> View attachment 30908
> 
> The mixed buttons on the same sleeve looks odd - no?


Yes, odd. Not to say I wouldn't wear it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## never behind

Matt S said:


> Thank you! It makes me happy that my research into fabrics in appreciated!


After two years I almost understand everything you say! When I got here I thought there was just "wool." I for one very much appreciate you sharing the knowledge.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Since it seems there were no objections to seasonal issues, let's all just carry on with the Tweeds:
> View attachment 30908
> 
> The mixed buttons on the same sleeve looks odd - no?


Worse than odd, the mixed buttons on a jacket sleeve strike me as a half a**ed effort to be cute. The person responsible needs to step back and grow up a bit before presuming to wear 'big boy's clothes.' Just an old man's opinion.


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## Fading Fast




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## Clintotron

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Fading Fast

Clintotron said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


I like the use of the corduroy vest here.


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## Clintotron

Fading Fast said:


> I like the use of the corduroy vest here.


I'll bet it's a warm rig. 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> I like the use of the corduroy vest here.


That is indeed one of the best combination of the two fabrics that I can recall having seen and, as you have opined, Clintotron, I suspect that is a very warm combination...one more great idea that I probably won't be able to adopt this far south!


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## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> That is indeed one of the best combination of the two fabrics that I can recall having seen and, as you have opined, Clintotron, I suspect that is a very warm combination...one more great idea that I probably won't be able to adopt this far south!


Well, I could see a corduroy vest under a tweed sport coat working in Florida if your goal is self-immolation.


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## eagle2250

^^
:laughing::laughing::laughing:


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## Oldsarge

Clintotron said:


> I'll bet it's a warm rig.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


I'm sure it is! I won't be able to dress like that again until at least October and possibly November. Looking forward to it, though . . .


----------



## Fading Fast

A family where Tweed is bred in the bone:


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## eagle2250

^^
The tweeds are quite spectacular, but that family seems a pretty dour bunch...only one of the six grants even a hint of a smile and the dogs also appear to be frowning! It must be the tail end of a long day of all hunting and no finding. LOL.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> The tweeds are quite spectacular, but that family seems a pretty dour bunch...only one of the six grants even a hint of a smile and the dogs also appear to be frowning! It must be the tail end of a long day of all hunting and no finding. LOL.


Interestingly, most photos from that period show people with serious faces. It's been argued that the two reasons for this are (1) photography was new and the belief / norm / meme then was that you wanted to present yourself to "the future" as a serious person and (2) most people had not-good teeth back then and didn't want to show them by smiling.

Hence, it's possible that the director / show runners - aware of the period norm - told the actors to present themselves that way. That, or as you note, they were cranky at the end of a long day and I've way overthought this. And, let's not kid ourselves, Lady Mary - yes, arrestingly beautiful - was no lighthearted, jocular soul.


----------



## Oldsarge

I still wouldn't mind marrying into that . . .


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Interestingly, most photos from that period show people with serious faces. It's been argued that the two reasons for this are (1) photography was new and the belief / norm / meme then was that you wanted to present yourself to "the future" as a serious person and (2) most people had not-good teeth back then and didn't want to show them by smiling.
> 
> Hence, it's possible that the director / show runners - aware of the period norm - told the actors to present themselves that way. That, or as you note, they were cranky at the end of a long day and I've way overthought this. And, let's not kid ourselves, Lady Mary - yes, arrestingly beautiful - was no lighthearted, jocular soul.


I look forward to, enjoy and learn from your always thoughtful and very informative replies. Thank you for that!


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> I still wouldn't mind marrying into that . . .


Lady Mary was available a few times.


----------



## Oldsarge

Sadly, I'm sure that she would have no interest in a crass 'colonial'.


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## Oldsarge




----------



## ItalianStyle

Interesting pattern for sure... and I haven't seen the "tie tucked in pants" since the 1950's where it apparently was normal if you had a bit of a belly...

Not sure why he had to cram a doormat (or whatever it is) in his pocket...?


----------



## Oldsarge

It's a felt, crushable fedora.


----------



## Clintotron

ItalianStyle said:


> I haven't seen the "tie tucked in pants" since the 1950's where it apparently was normal if you had a bit of a belly...


It's called the "Fred Mertz".

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Fading Fast

For Mother's Day, some classic tweed female attire (and two classic females)
















I kid you not, I found a neat one of Joan Crawford in tweed, but (whether the stories about her are true or not) with the Mommy Dearest thing, I just couldn't post it on Mother's Day.


----------



## StephenRG

Fading Fast said:


> Interestingly, most photos from that period show people with serious faces. It's been argued that the two reasons for this are (1) photography was new and the belief / norm / meme then was that you wanted to present yourself to "the future" as a serious person and (2) most people had not-good teeth back then and didn't want to show them by smiling.
> 
> Hence, it's possible that the director / show runners - aware of the period norm - told the actors to present themselves that way. That, or as you note, they were cranky at the end of a long day and I've way overthought this. And, let's not kid ourselves, Lady Mary - yes, arrestingly beautiful - was no lighthearted, jocular soul.


I wonder whether another reason for serious faces dates back to the very earliest days when exposure times were long, and it happens to be easier to keep a serious face still than a smiling one, and lo! a tradition is born.

FWIW Lewis Carroll wrote a very funny parody of "Hiawatha" on the subject.

https://www.poemhunter.com/poem/hiawatha-s-photographing/


----------



## Fading Fast

StephenRG said:


> I wonder whether another reason for serious faces dates back to the very earliest days when exposure times were long, and it happens to be easier to keep a serious face still than a smiling one, and lo! a tradition is born.
> 
> FWIW Lewis Carroll wrote a very funny parody of "Hiawatha" on the subject.
> 
> https://www.poemhunter.com/poem/hiawatha-s-photographing/


Yes, absolutely, I'm embarrassed that I forgot that until you brought it up, but it was definitely part of the reason.


----------



## eagle2250

StephenRG said:


> I wonder whether another reason for serious faces dates back to the very earliest days when exposure times were long, and it happens to be easier to keep a serious face still than a smiling one, and lo! a tradition is born.
> 
> FWIW Lewis Carroll wrote a very funny parody of "Hiawatha" on the subject.
> 
> https://www.poemhunter.com/poem/hiawatha-s-photographing/


Indeed the poem is delightful, but the accompanying music is increasingly tedious, as the verse continues. :crazy: Perhaps it's just me?


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

That's a lovely houndstooth but is it actually tweed? It looks awfully smooth to me.


----------



## Fading Fast

Some more houndstooth (not sure this one is tweed either):


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## Clintotron

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Fading Fast

Fading Fast said:


> Some more houndstooth (not sure this one is tweed either):


With allowances for my monitor, I see a brown-and-white (or cream) houndstooth jacket, a grey wool sweater, a white (or cream) shirt and a tan-ish pair of pants.

On paper - I don't like the sound of that at all. But other than the pants, which have a somewhat orange hue that's too strong for the rest of the shades, I like what he's done here. It's a not-at-all-traditional outfit, that, IMHO, works.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> With allowances for my monitor, I see a brown-and-white (or cream) houndstooth jacket, a grey wool sweater, a white (or cream) shirt and a tan-ish pair of pants.
> 
> On paper - I don't like the sound of that at all. But other than the pants, which have a somewhat orange hue that's too strong for the rest of the shades, I like what he's done here. It's a not-at-all-traditional outfit, that, IMHO, works.


The glass of whisky in his hands is a top flight accessory, too.


----------



## Fading Fast

In addition to the tweed (a suit, I'm assuming), a shoutout to the dress boots ('cause they always deserve one) and that room (it's calling out for tweed) are in order.


----------



## Oldsarge

AND he's wearing a pocket watch. Most satisfactory!


----------



## Fading Fast

Let's do blankets today.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Pocket Square Review w/ ratings (starting at upper left):

1. The teal is too neon/loud - fights the tone of the tweed :angry::angry:

2. No pocket square is my default setting for tweed (rarely needs one and usually just effs things up) 

3. Okay I guess, but see #2 for preferred option


----------



## Oldsarge

1) agree
2) disagree because I love pocket squares with countryside motifs with tweed
3) wrong choice of pattern (see #2 above)


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Pocket Square Review w/ ratings (starting at upper left):
> 
> 1. The teal is too neon/loud - fights the tone of the tweed :angry::angry:
> 
> 2. No pocket square is my default setting for tweed (rarely needs one and usually just effs things up)
> 
> 3. Okay I guess, but see #2 for preferred option


But what about the tweed!?


----------



## Clintotron

Oldsarge said:


> 1) agree
> 2) disagree because I love pocket squares with countryside motifs with tweed
> 3) wrong choice of pattern (see #2 above)


I think the pattern is too small. I like the pattern and the colors, it just needs to be scaled up.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Let's do blankets today.
> View attachment 31031
> View attachment 31032
> View attachment 31033


Blankets....or men's mufflers/scarves? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Blankets....or men's mufflers/scarves? :icon_scratch:


I thought the same on the middle one, but here are where I found the pics:

https://locomote.org/harris-tweed-blankets/


----------



## eagle2250

Thanks for the clarrification. Those are quite handsome wool fabric patterns!


----------



## Fading Fast

Teal-ish tie: I like its texture, but too bright for the jacket.









Better tie harmony


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> But what about the tweed!?


Sorry, missed this one earlier.

I like all three, but the middle one is my favorite.


----------



## Fading Fast

Didn't say, but has to be Ralph.

The watch is outstanding as is, well, almost everything else - the jacket, Fair Isle, tie and book []. Not a fan of the undone button down collar using a collar bar instead nor do I care for the pocket square (but I rarely do).


----------



## eagle2250

^^
I know it doesn't qualify as clothing, but that web leather chair he is leaning against is a winner, as well!


----------



## Oldsarge

About that jacket I said I was having made . . .


----------



## eagle2250

^^
The jacket you had made for yourself is very handsome indeed! The fit appears spot-on. :beer:


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> I know it doesn't qualify as clothing, but that web leather chair he is leaning against is a winner, as well!


Oh yeah - nice chair. Ralph knows how to create a world one would like to live in. The, em, er, uh, small challenge for me is that no one in that world would want me living there, but it's still pretty to look at. 

When I was a regular Ralph MTM customer, I was invited to a dinner out with several other clients for a marketing discussion "with our important clients." Polo was upfront about the purpose - we want to pick your brain and run ideas by you. While I usually say no to stuff like that, since my sales guy said it reflected well on him if his clients went - and since I was a bit curious - I did go.

They had a lot of topics to discuss that night, but one was a around the idea of "access to the world of Ralph Lauren" where "members" would be invited to special events (they'd have to pay) for things like dinner at the Polo mansion and "outings" to events like polo matches or (I kid you not) cricket matches. There was more - special "nights" for private shopping, early access to new clothes, etc.

Months later, I asked my sale guy about it and he said that idea was ultimately rejected as the feedback was mixed and it would have been expensive to create and execute. So, in a way, even Ralph Lauren acknowledged that its fantasy world is too expensive to create in the real world.


----------



## Fading Fast

It's hard to post anything after Old Sarge's outstanding jacket. I not only want his jacket, I want his tailor.

Which brings to mind this from Warren Zevon's "Werewolves of London -" note the last line:

_He's the hairy-handed gent who ran amuck in Kent
Lately he's been overheard in Mayfair
You better stay away from him
He'll rip your lungs out, Jim
I'd like to meet his tailor
_​Back to our regularly scheduled programing and keeping with the Old-Sarge theme of the day:


----------



## Oldsarge

Damn, I should have had a vest made, too. Oh well, maybe next fall.


----------



## Fading Fast

Not my thing, but a little Sunday splash:








I do love side tabs, but much prefer them w/out belt loops.


----------



## Clintotron

Fading Fast said:


> It's hard to post anything after Old Sarge's outstanding jacket. I not only want his jacket, I want his tailor.
> 
> Which brings to mind this from Warren Zevon's "Werewolves of London -" note the last line:
> 
> _He's the hairy-handed gent who ran amuck in Kent
> Lately he's been overheard in Mayfair
> You better stay away from him
> He'll rip your lungs out, Jim
> I'd like to meet his tailor
> _​Back to our regularly scheduled programing and keeping with the Old-Sarge theme of the day:
> View attachment 31110


I believe a vest like this would work with or without lapels. In Sarge's situation, I'd be tempted to have one of each made, for lack of decisiveness.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Fading Fast

GREY CHECK SALT & PEPPER DONEGAL TWEED


----------



## Fading Fast

I went with this one today just for the vest for Old Sarge.


----------



## Oldsarge

Perfect! Where did you buy the vest?


----------



## Fading Fast

I own or, at some point, have owned some version of #2 & #3 in multiple coats, scarfs, sport coats, suits, trousers, socks, sneakers, wool shirts and wool ties (and bet I'm missing one or more items). If I wasn't going to be cremated, I'd ask for my casket to be lined in grey herringbone (eff'em, I'm dead, let them figure out how to make it happen).


----------



## Clintotron

Fading Fast said:


> I own or, at some point, have owned some version of #2 & #3 in multiple coats, scarfs, sport coats, suits, trousers, socks, sneakers, wool shirts and wool ties (and bet I'm missing one or more items). If I wasn't going to be cremated, I'd ask for my casket to be lined in grey herringbone (eff'em, I'm dead, let them figure out how to make it happen).
> View attachment 31252


Have your urn made with some like those Harris Tweed flasks available on Etsy from time to time.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Fading Fast

Clintotron said:


> Have your urn made with some like those Harris Tweed flasks available on Etsy from time to time.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


I like that idea - why not, as I said, what the h*ll, I'm dead, let someone else worry about making it happen.


----------



## Clintotron

Don’t forget to have it treated with Scotchgard. Never know when Fido may choose to desecrate the late FF. Haha


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Charles Dana

Fading Fast said:


> I like that idea - why not, as I said, what the h*ll, I'm dead, let someone else worry about making it happen.


Just make sure your post-cremation instructions are clear.

My Uncle Nick was cremated. (Fortunately for him, he was dead at the time. I don't recommend pre-death cremation unless you're unusually adventurous.)

Uncle Nick's sister, my Aunt Phyllis, made the arrangements. His ashes were supposed to be scattered somewhere--I don't know where.

Shortly after the cremation, a package is delivered to Aunt Phyllis' home. Uncle Barry, her husband, calls Aunt Phyllis at her part-time job:

"There's a package for you."
"I didn't order anything. What is it?"
"I'm not sure, but I think it's your brother."

And it was indeed Uncle Nick, paying one last visit. Aunt Phyllis got everything straightened out.

Uncle Barry is no longer with us, but Aunt Phyllis, at age 93, is still going strong. She still works part-time because she likes having things to do.

Every Tuesday she eats breakfast with a group of Republicans. Then every Friday she has breakfast with Democrats. There's a lesson there somewhere.


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Kidding aside, I couldn't care less what happens to my body when I'm dead. If it wasn't that my girlfriend cared, I'd be fine being tossed out with the day's trash. It's not a statement - I just don't care / have no emotion or feeling for it at all.


----------



## Oldsarge

I'll be sharing the niche in the columbarium with Kathy.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> I own or, at some point, have owned some version of #2 & #3 in multiple coats, scarfs, sport coats, suits, trousers, socks, sneakers, wool shirts and wool ties (and bet I'm missing one or more items). If I wasn't going to be cremated, I'd ask for my casket to be lined in grey herringbone (eff'em, I'm dead, let them figure out how to make it happen).
> View attachment 31252


The picture above is as emotionally cruel to those like me regarding the Tweed conundrum whith which I must struggle, as are the elaborate meal pictures member Flanderain posts in the Red Meat thread, as I struggle with a never ending diet! LOL. :crazy:


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Hopefully I make sense, loopy from the pain (acetaminophen not doing a thing and can't get anything stronger until 20:00).

Three days of being in the 60s with clouds and very windy, tired of being cold, so couple days ago found on eBay tweet pants and hopefully here Friday, so the weather will turn warm.  Ha. Original price $28.89 with free shipping, though since an option to offer, did at $21.67.

Podiatrist this morning, so got out my warmest tweed suit and wore that. Figured pictures or didn't happen. Oh and after a member pointed out, been combing the mustache at least once if not twice a day, slowly getting where supposed to. Did get complements on my outfit today.


----------



## Fading Fast

From the PBS TV show "My Mother and Other Strangers"

Okay show / great time travel / amazing clothes - fantastic Tweeds and Fair Isles (love the sport coat in the 1st pic)


----------



## Fading Fast

I was going to put up more pictures from other period TV shows and movies as I've seen probably 90% of them (yes, Amazon's, Netflix's and Google's AI has figured this out and electronically assault me anytime something remotely related to a period show becomes available), but then, I thought it will be more fun to slow-roll them out.

So for the start of a long weekend, I went with this quirky bowtie, which is new, but made from vintage material. I am opposed to pre-tied bowties, but still, the material is just that cool.


----------



## eagle2250

^^
What a handsome way to spot the Tweed during the warmer months of the year! :beer:


----------



## Fading Fast

Let's give a tie the Tweed spotlight today:


----------



## Adriel Rowley

How about this Harris tweed shooting jacket from Henry Herbert?

Love the shape of the quarters.


----------



## Oldsarge

Adriel Rowley said:


> How about this Harris tweed shooting jacket from Henry Herbert?
> 
> Love the shape of the quarters.


I am positively drooling. What a jacket!


----------



## Fading Fast

I really like the pattern/feel/texture of the sport coat (and its throat latch). Does anyone know what that pattern is called (I think I used to know, but time seems to have erased that knowledge)?


----------



## Clintotron

Fading Fast said:


> I really like the pattern/feel/texture of the sport coat (and its throat latch). Does anyone know what that pattern is called (I think I used to know, but time seems to have erased that knowledge)?
> View attachment 31334


Maybe a barleycorn weave? Or some variation of?

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----------



## Fading Fast

Clintotron said:


> Maybe a barleycorn weave? Or some variation of?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


It feels close to a barleycorn, but I'm thinking it's not quite that as I think of barleycorn as a touch "tighter" and not as crosshatched, but maybe barleycorn has several variations and this is one of them.

Time to fire up the Batsignal for @Matt S to inform us:


----------



## Matt S

Fading Fast said:


> It feels close to a barleycorn, but I'm thinking it's not quite that as I think of barleycorn as a touch "tighter" and not as crosshatched, but maybe barleycorn has several variations and this is one of them.
> 
> Time to fire up the Batsignal for @Matt S to inform us:
> View attachment 31336


This is one of two variations on barleycorn. The other is a bell-shaped pattern. This is also known as broken twill.


----------



## Fading Fast

Matt S said:


> This is one of two variations on barleycorn. The other is a bell-shaped pattern. This is also known as broken twill.


Matt - as always, thank you for sharing your impressive wealth of information with all of us.

Clintotron - great call.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> It feels close to a barleycorn, but I'm thinking it's not quite that as I think of barleycorn as a touch "tighter" and not as crosshatched, but maybe barleycorn has several variations and this is one of them.
> 
> Time to fire up the Batsignal for @Matt S to inform us:
> View attachment 31336


Egad! Whenever I attempt to picture Matt S in my mind's eye, he does come up looking a lot like Bruce Wayne!


----------



## FiscalDean

Fading Fast said:


> I really like the pattern/feel/texture of the sport coat (and its throat latch). Does anyone know what that pattern is called (I think I used to know, but time seems to have erased that knowledge)?
> View attachment 31334


To my eye, it looks like crows foot.


----------



## Fading Fast

FiscalDean said:


> To my eye, it looks like crows foot.


I used to know these patterns reasonably well as, in the '80s when I started buying traditional clothes, not only were these common patterns (in the old-school stores anyway), but the salesmen knew their names, but it's been three decades between then and now and my memory is all jumbled up on the terms.


----------



## Fading Fast

Back at work, but still time to put up a Tweed pic.


----------



## krock

I just recalled I have tweed sneakers. Am I allowed to post them in this thread  ?


----------



## Fading Fast

krock said:


> I just recalled I have tweed sneakers. Am I allowed to post them in this thread  ?


IMO - Yes.

And you reminded me, I have a pair too.


----------



## Clintotron

Fading Fast said:


> IMO - Yes.
> 
> And you reminded me, I have a pair too.


Pics or it didn't happen

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## krock

Ok, Gentlemen. Here's some donegal for your viewing pleasure 

Both are Santoni.
Grabbed 3 years ago.
The low top one has seen enough wear, the higher one still waits for its time (I have a pair of high sneakers in suede, I don't wear high sneakers very often, while they turned out to be much more durable than I thought.)


----------



## Fading Fast

Clintotron said:


> Pics or it didn't happen
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Duly noted - I think I have a pic somewhere, if not - I'll take a new one.


----------



## Fading Fast

Clintotron said:


> Pics or it didn't happen
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Found the pic. Noting that they are from that fine haberdashery Old Navy , tweed might be a stretch, but they are wool (at least that's what the website said at the time and they feel like wool) and the pattern is herringbone:








And say what you will about Old Navy, I paid ~$13 (on final sale) for these four or five seasons ago and they are still going strong and, sadly, despite having better shoes and sneakers, these receive, possibly, more compliments than most of my other footwear.


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## Oldsarge

And so today we have done tweed head to toe and gentlemen, I am impressed. While I am unlikely to ever indulge myself in a pair of tweed sneakers, I am not opposed to such--and yours look positively sharp. Well done.

And that pile of caps? Fading Fast, did my housekeeper let you into my closet?


----------



## Clintotron

@Oldsarge, I don't see myself wearing such a cap, but in the time before my felt hat is worn more regularly, I'm going to make a new hat band for it using a family tartan. It is likely that it will be repurposed from a necktie.

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## Oldsarge

Excellent choice. Let there be recycling.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Back at work, but still time to put up a Tweed pic.
> View attachment 31369


With only two Tweed Flat caps in my collection, I feel positively deprived, as I gaze upon that picture!


----------



## Adriel Rowley

eagle2250 said:


> With only two Tweed Flat caps in my collection, I feel positively deprived, as I gaze upon that picture!


Just think, some folks have no tweed caps, at least you have two.


----------



## Oldsarge

Adriel Rowley said:


> Just think, some folks have no tweed caps, at least you have two.


Pity them, oh pity.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> Pity them, oh pity.


I some day will get around remedying that, it's a problem of limited resources.

Yes I am 32, though have a few years left to acquire a respectable wardrobe.


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## Oldsarge

Tweed flat caps are far from expensive. Oh, you can go to H&H or Purdey and spend a UUGE amount for a simple cap but you can also check out eBay or etsy and do very well. Or go ask Tweedydon. I'll bet he has some.


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## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> Tweed flat caps are far from expensive. Oh, you can go to H&H or Purdey and spend a HUGE amount for a simple cap but you can also check out eBay or etsy and do very well. Or go ask Tweedydon. I'll bet he has some.


I am not seeing a shop for this Tweedydon, only forum name. What am I missing?

Sent a PM too.


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## Oldsarge

Tweedydon sells previously owned tweeds. Send him a PM and tell him what you're looking for and what you can afford to spend. I once got a beautiful jacket from him for $40.


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## krock

Adriel Rowley said:


> I am not seeing a shop for this Tweedydon, only forum name. What am I missing?
> 
> Sent a PM too.


I believe it's his shop:

https://www.waterhollowtweed.com


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## Fading Fast

⇧ I believe it is too and he and his shop are incredible - great value, honest to deal with and a very nice guy.

Staying with Tweedy Don for today's pic, I bought this Paul Stuart coat from him last year:


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ I believe it is too and he and his shop are incredible - great value, honest to deal with and a very nice guy.
> 
> Staying with Tweedy Don for today's pic, I bought this Paul Stuart coat from him last year:
> View attachment 31424


I was looking and couldn't believe the prices, will keep in mind when get better situated. Now I know a tweed cap costs about $20.

And what an overcoat that is! Love the scale of the herringbone, swelled lapels, a good length, and the fly front.


----------



## Fading Fast

The somewhat controversial tweed sport coat and denim shirt combo again.


----------



## eagle2250

^^It seems a bit strange, but as I see more examples of such I really am starting to like the combination of a chambray/denim shirt with a Herringbone Tweed. :icon_scratch: I'm going to have to try that.


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## Clintotron

Mayhaps without the über-dark vest.


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## Clintotron

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ I believe it is too and he and his shop are incredible - great value, honest to deal with and a very nice guy.
> 
> Staying with Tweedy Don for today's pic, I bought this Paul Stuart coat from him last year:
> View attachment 31424


I remember that coat from when it was listed. Lovely.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Oldsarge

_


Clintotron said:



Mayhaps without the über-dark vest.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Click to expand...

Definitely_ without the über-dark vest. Excellent choice of tie, though.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> The somewhat controversial tweed sport coat and denim shirt combo again.
> View attachment 31447


Not at all controversial in my book, a panoply of lovely harmonies of color, texture and mode!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Not at all controversial in my book, a panoply of lovely harmonies of color, texture and mode!


I'm not arguing with that ⇧ guy.


----------



## Flanderian

Clintotron said:


> Mayhaps without the über-dark vest.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro





Oldsarge said:


> _
> 
> Definitely_ without the über-dark vest. Excellent choice of tie, though.


I'm not sure I can agree. I've got a lambswool sweater vest in very dark navy with MOP buttons, and have found it compliments my denim shirts very nicely. Can't tell for sure this vest's color, whether black, charcoal or navy, but if it's flannel, I'd like find it rustic enough for the pairing.


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## Adriel Rowley

Only 93*F outside.  LOL

Honestly little warm in the sun, though indoors fine. I said I would and did. Think helps having no tie and open collar.Sleeves are just right, though the vast majority of my shirts the sleeves are too short, darn late life growth spurt.


----------



## Oldsarge

A slightly lighter shade of trouser might improve that outfit a bit but IMO it works just fine.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> A slightly lighter shade of trouser might improve that outfit a bit but IMO it works just fine.


Yep, kind of my feeling too, sometimes have to go what you have. That lighter brown also work for the brown blazer.  

How about the shirt? Tough call with the few left after donating 2/3 of my shirts.


----------



## eagle2250

^^
Medium Tan gaberdines would be perfect.


----------



## Fading Fast

And one more tweed-denim hookup:


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## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> And one more tweed-denim hookup:
> View attachment 31478


Now that's the way!


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> Now that's the way!


Of the ones we've seen recently, I liked this one the best too.


----------



## BlackBart

SG_67 said:


> The last / I really like. For the second to last, I think I'd opt for a light blue shirt just for some contrast.


Know this is old but, have worn similar hunting and/or fishing


----------



## Clintotron

Adriel Rowley said:


> Yep, kind of my feeling too, sometimes have to go what you have. That lighter brown also work for the brown blazer.
> 
> How about the shirt? Tough call with the few left after donating 2/3 of my shirts.


From the look of that cuff, that's a fine shirt. I'd love to have that in my closet.

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## Clintotron

Fading Fast said:


> And one more tweed-denim hookup:
> View attachment 31478


Hold the tie bar, and I'd go with a patterned tie.

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## Fading Fast

Clintotron said:


> Hold the tie bar, and I'd go with a patterned tie.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


I'm usually not a fan of the sport coat, shirt and tie all being solid, but I thought it worked in that outfit in a sorta Steve McQueen '60s cool way.


----------



## Fading Fast

A tweed-(I think)chambray combo. I'm not a fan of the tie choice; it's too school boy or Wall Street intern for an outfit that needs a rougher hewn one.


----------



## Clintotron

Fading Fast said:


> A tweed-(I think)chambray combo. I'm not a fan of the tie choice; it's too school boy or Wall Street intern for an outfit that needs a rougher hewn one.
> View attachment 31493


I'm not disagreeing with you, FF. I think if he lost the jacket, the whole rig would work, as the tweed is too rustic for the tie. But, since the jacket is the main focus, a different tie would be a necessity.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Clintotron said:


> From the look of that cuff, that's a fine shirt. I'd love to have that in my closet.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Thank you!

Why the cuff? I thought the collar, especially a button down like this, was more crucial?

Would you believe it's a Kirkland from about 2011? My Sister was a member, saw the shirt in Nebraska, and being a redhead knew a good color so recommend I go with a member and get one. I sure wish still had this color as get one with longer sleeves.

Fabric to me feels nice too.


----------



## Clintotron

The cuff, to my eye, has the best representation of the fabric. I’m on my phone, as I RARELY use my laptop and my work computer blocks AAAC.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Fading Fast

I know we are a men's sartorial site, but this is a darn fine tweed outfit.


----------



## Oldsarge

And so delightfully filled, too.


----------



## Hebrew Barrister

Fading Fast said:


> I'm usually not a fan of the sport coat, shirt and tie all being solid, but I thought it worked in that outfit in a sorta Steve McQueen '60s cool way.


I think it goes great in that pic. However, I, too, would ditch the tie bar.


----------



## Fading Fast




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## Oldsarge

Hmmm, that combination just strikes me as incongruous. The shirt, tie and collar pin are so, well, precious, and the coat and cardigan so homey. And then he puts in a starched linen pocket square? Odd.


----------



## paxonus

Slightly off topic, but I came across an interesting story having to do with the Isle of Lewis, one of the places authorized to weave the notable tweed of which we speak. It seems one of the most famous chess sets in the world, known as the Lewis Chessmen, were discovered on the island in 1831 and are believed to have been made around the 12th century. Recently, one of 5 missing pieces was recently discovered, and will be up for auction. Interesting read:

https://www.cnn.com/style/article/lost-lewis-chessman-scli-intl/index.html


----------



## 16412

Oldsarge said:


> Hmmm, that combination just strikes me as incongruous. The shirt, tie and collar pin are so, well, precious, and the coat and cardigan so homey. And then he puts in a starched linen pocket square? Odd.


It looks like he is trying to dress as nice as he can. But, trying to stay warm.


----------



## eagle2250

paxonus said:


> Slightly off topic, but I came across an interesting story having to do with the Isle of Lewis, one of the places authorized to weave the notable tweed of which we speak. It seems one of the most famous chess sets in the world, known as the Lewis Chessmen, were discovered on the island in 1831 and are believed to have been made around the 12th century. Recently, one of 5 missing pieces was recently discovered, and will be up for auction. Interesting read:
> 
> https://www.cnn.com/style/article/lost-lewis-chessman-scli-intl/index.html


Now that makes for a very expensive chess set, all explained in a fascinating article. Thanks for sharing it with us!


----------



## BillC

paxonus said:


> Slightly off topic, but I came across an interesting story having to do with the Isle of Lewis, one of the places authorized to weave the notable tweed of which we speak. It seems one of the most famous chess sets in the world, known as the Lewis Chessmen, were discovered on the island in 1831 and are believed to have been made around the 12th century. Recently, one of 5 missing pieces was recently discovered, and will be up for auction. Interesting read:
> 
> https://www.cnn.com/style/article/lost-lewis-chessman-scli-intl/index.html


I have a complete set of the Lewis Chessmen purchased at the British Museum about 35 years ago. They are exquisitely made replicas. The castles are berserkers carrying a large shield. They are biting their shields. BillC


----------



## Fading Fast

Check out this super-cool (I assume) Tweed coat from the 1961 movie "Murder, She Said."

The movie was filmed in England.

I believe the pattern is called broken herringbone, but if anyone ( @Matt S ) knows better, I'm happy to be corrected.























My comments on the movie: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...ovie-you-watched.20830/page-1341#post-2554216


----------



## Oldsarge

Another


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge inspired me to think about coats - love the big herringbone pattern and sleeve cuff on the one on the left:


----------



## Fading Fast

Tweed*-denim again:








*Assuming the sport coat is tweed.


----------



## Oldsarge

Again, the tie and pocket square are incongruous with the shirt and coat. And I have definite reservations about that vest!


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> Again, the tie and pocket square are incongruous with the shirt and coat. And I have definite reservations about that vest!


I'm with you on the vest and pocket square (I'm in the very small camp that thinks a tweed jacket with a denim shirt, 99% of the time, is better off without a PS), but the tie looks like it has enough "rough" texture to hold up the the sport coat and shirt (hard to really tell though).


----------



## 16412

It has been for me that denim is far below tweed. And, never belongs in the same company.


----------



## ran23

With the temps on the West coast dropping, I am tempted to pull out my tweeds.


----------



## Oldsarge

That's for now. By Monday it should be in the 90's in Portland.


----------



## ran23

and 100 down my way.


----------



## eagle2250

^^
Yesterday's high for the day around here was 94 degrees and it was pretty doggone humid. Accepting the reality that my beloved Tweeds are but a fading memory, I press on realizing this is naught but preconditioning for an eternity in Hell! As some Oriental philosopher once said, " we sweat more in peace, so that we might bleed less in war!" Just getting ready.


----------



## Fading Fast

Same sport coat and denim shirt as yesterday (I'm pretty sure anyway) with a different tie, vest and PS.








Lose the pocket square and, maybe, the vest (need to see more of it, but too close to the tie in color) and I think it works.


----------



## Oldsarge

Agreed


----------



## eagle2250

^^Nice rig, to include what appears to be a sweater vest..
I can see myself wearing that. Although the pocket square seems a bit of a distraction.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## eagle2250

^^
I generally like the rig pictured above, but must ask...what's going on with that tie? Are we seeing both the front and back blades, due to defective knotting of same? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 31693


*Great* tweed! :happy:


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

^^
A belted back, bi-swing shoulders, and suede patches on the elbows...that Tweed beauty has everything going for it! A gentleman would always look good wearing that jacket.


----------



## Oldsarge

Accessorize it with a vintage sidekick or hammer gun and you have style to the _n_th.


----------



## Fading Fast

A couple from Orvis


----------



## eagle2250

^^
....and here's an example of that Orvis design from my closet, purchased several years back.










It's almost too heavy to see much wear time in our present local, but I do love the jacket!


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> ....and here's an example of that Orvis design from my closet, purchased several years back.
> 
> View attachment 31761
> 
> 
> It's almost too heavy to see much wear time in our present local, but I do love the jacket!


⇧ Love it. As I might have mention once or twice (or ten thousand times), grey herringbone is my favorite fabric and color choice. That's an outstanding one. I'll be keeping my eye on Orvis now this fall as that one would be a no-brainer for me.


----------



## paxonus

Fading Fast said:


> A couple from Orvis
> View attachment 31759
> 
> View attachment 31760


I have something similar in Harris Tweed from BB:


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

I don't care for the shirt but the suit and the tie are choice.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> I don't care for the shirt but the suit and the tie are choice.


I, too, thought the shirt struck the wrong vibe as it feels "light" and summery to me - but love the suit and tie together. I also like the rounded pin-collar with eyelets, but again, the shirt's body needs a fall-winter fabric and color/pattern to harmonize with the rest of the outfit.


----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> I don't care for the shirt but the suit and the tie are choice.


I agree! The design of that shirt is way too prissy to be compatible with that robust Tweed. And alas, the collar design is a big part of the problem. The collar is more formal and the jacket more casual...mutually contradictory!


----------



## Fading Fast

Have I posted this one before?








Love that it closes with buttons not a zipper - very classic baseball jacket.


----------



## Fading Fast

Variation on yesterday's theme, but the details - button front, fabric cuffs and collar (very baseball jacket) - make yesterday's one my choice:


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

^ Now I don't know much about Trad but this looks intensely Ivy--from a Left Coast perspective, at least. Very nice.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> ^ Now I don't know much about Trad but this looks intensely Ivy--from a Left Coast perspective, at least. Very nice.


It feels very Ralph Lauren-y to me reflecting his uber Ivy worldview. I'd have gone with a white or light cream shirt to turn down the volume, but I think Ralph wanted to turn it up.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Clintotron

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 31890


What's with the neck ties bowing out in so many examples?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Fading Fast

Clintotron said:


> What's with the neck ties bowing out in so many examples?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


If I'm responding to the same pics you're commenting on, I think it's a combination of the the tie bar popping the tie's knot out and the tie intentionally being bowed by not being fully tucked into the sweater or vest (i.e., it's intentionally using the leverage of not being fully tucked to keep the tie from laying flat against the shirt).

Ralph and many others seem to do this for a look or style affect. I assume, they believe it helps the overall visual of the outfit. That's my guess anyway.

P.S., I love the last two Fair Isles.


----------



## Oldsarge

If I did that, I'd guarantee to dribble either soup or spaghetti sauce on it.


----------



## eagle2250

^^
Yup! Maybe even egg yolk, depending on the time of day.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Found a couple tweeds in Goodwill this morning, here is a close up of my favorite. Very heavy and thick. Or should I do double pictures (posting these in my personal thread)?

What love most is the colors, not common, lending a softer pastel tone then grays.

Anything special about the weave?


----------



## Oldsarge

A bit lighter than my preference but a handsome tweed all the same.


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## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> A bit lighter than my preference but a handsome tweed all the same.


Thank you.

Curious why prefer darker tweeds?

Just finished updating my introduction thread, only took about a couple hours. Now can see it in the whole.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

Adriel Rowley said:


> Thank you.
> 
> Curious why prefer darker tweeds?
> 
> Just finished updating my introduction thread, only took about a couple hours. Now can see it in the whole.


Darker skies call for darker colors. We don't get a whole lot of sun up here in the PNW, especially during the tweed temperature months.


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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 31924


The chest of drawers in the background looks quite extraordinary, as does that Tweed Suit. The walking stick peaks one's interests, as well.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> Darker skies call for darker colors. We don't get a whole lot of sun up here in the PNW, especially during the tweed temperature months.


Ah, interesting. See Oma's preference to wear bright colour on a gloomy day must have stuck with me. Not that wear in the dead of Winter (recognizing the Labor Day to Easter rule), more of a Spring coat, maybe Fall.

So that also apply to ties?


----------



## Oldsarge

Good question. When wearing a tie with tweed I try to match the Open Season. You know, trout, bass, pheasant, deer . . .

The seasons when nothing is open? Well, up here, they don't exist.


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## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> Good question. When wearing a tie with tweed I try to match the Open Season. You know, trout, bass, pheasant, deer . . .
> 
> The seasons when nothing is open? Well, up here, they don't exist.


Ha. If was rich and self employed with a business location of online, Oregon certainly be one of my locations in part because of all the family there (the other location with a lot of family is Texas). Three car garage for Dad's '64 Beetle, the '71 Squareback, and one for when the roads are salted (unless the area isn't then just need two car garage). Texas be a W123 Mercedes wagon as great for the long trip to the family reunion and has aircon to address the humidity. Tweeds be in Oregon of course.

I was more asking if you ever wear only dark ties in Winter.


----------



## Oldsarge

I wear wool and knit and Grenadine ties in winter so it isn't so much a question of light vs. dark but of rougher texture. Of course, I'm retired so I don't have a great use for 'business' attire with its regimental stripes and brilliant silks. It would be hard to call what I wear business attire unless one works for a very eccentric firm. But, yes, I believe my ties tend to be darker in overcast weather. When it's bright and sunny it's often too warm for ties. Today was a point in question. Walking from one side of downtown Portland to the other was very warm work. If I were just sitting at an outdoor café it might have been nice but today was the Pride Parade and the streets were noisy and thronged so we had lunch inside and watched all the madness through the window--and there was a lot of it!


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> I wear wool and knit and Grenadine ties in winter so it isn't so much a question of light vs. dark but of rougher texture. Of course, I'm retired so I don't have a great use for 'business' attire with its regimental stripes and brilliant silks. It would be hard to call what I wear business attire unless one works for a very eccentric firm. But, yes, I believe my ties tend to be darker in overcast weather. When it's bright and sunny it's often too warm for ties. Today was a point in question. Walking from one side of downtown Portland to the other was very warm work. If I were just sitting at an outdoor café it might have been nice but today was the Pride Parade and the streets were noisy and thronged so we had lunch inside and watched all the madness through the window--and there was a lot of it!


Maybe @Peak and Pine has such in is tie trunk he be so kind to send in the next tie shipment (in my thread he mentioned sending me as says what I picked up Saturday is in poor taste).  (Risking being ornery...) I do have a dark brown knit tie though never felt comfortable as comes to mid chest, though because someone really special gave it to me, is in the box of mementos.

Just checked the temperature. Yes, 80 is a bit warm for Portlandians. If was in a breathable coat and pants, lightweight shirt, and a Panama hat, have done several blocks in the mid 90s, though what I am used to (help if wasn't in thermals though then once inside would freeze :cold: ).

Now don't go out Sunday (was rejected) now trying to find reasons to dress nicer. Agree ties can be a bit warm with a coat, first Summer trying such and doubt do again. Soon the cool weather be back and can wear our tweeds and ties.


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## Fading Fast

Not a fan of the shirt at all, but like the sport coat, Fair Isle and tie together. I'd lose the PS, but I almost always feel that way.


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## Oldsarge

Usually I like PS's but this one is a bit over the top. And that shirt? Nah.


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## Clintotron

Oldsarge said:


> Usually I like PS's but this one is a bit over the top. And that shirt? Nah.


I was just going to say that the PS is far too much. A simple (mostly) brown would have sufficed.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Oldsarge

Or one that matches the green of the sweater . . . and definitely not silk.


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## Fading Fast

Calling Old Sarge


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## Oldsarge

Nice one! I love the scarlet lining. International Orange would be even more fun.


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## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> Nice one! I love the scarlet lining. International Orange would be even more fun.


Looks like a really, really, really well-made garment.


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## Oldsarge

Doesn't it though? And probably really, really, really expensive.


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## Oldsarge




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## Fading Fast

Inspired by Old Sarge's post, I found these:


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## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 31967


May inquire on that spectrum which be the lightest you wear Sarge?



Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 31968


I certainly love the green! So rare and looks like a nice one, especially the shade.


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## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> Inspired by Old Sarge's post, I found these:
> View attachment 31986
> View attachment 31987


What variety, too hard to choose!


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## Oldsarge

Adriel Rowley said:


> What variety, too hard to choose!


Exactly! So many tweeds, so many choices. What would be my 'lightest' choice? Probably the third from the left, the grey glen check. I am a sucker for glen checks, anyway, and that one is quite nice. From the second set? I agree with you, the green is just fine. In fact, if I can get someone to shoot a photo Friday evening, I'll post the one I recently got in nearly the same color. Decisions, decisions . . .


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## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> Exactly! So many tweeds, so many choices. What would be my 'lightest' choice? Probably the third from the left, the grey glen check. I am a sucker for glen checks, anyway, and that one is quite nice. From the second set? I agree with you, the green is just fine. In fact, if I can get someone to shoot a photo Friday evening, I'll post the one I recently got in nearly the same color. Decisions, decisions . . .


Ha, I guessed right. The grey glen check does though have color, how about a medium blue or dark red Winter tie to pull from those?

I am so grateful to have found tweed so young, by the time your age have a nice collection. Maybe have a nephew that fits, my 9 month old nephew is already a bean pole and his Dad has the same problem as me with extra long arms, then jump start his collection.


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## Oldsarge

A dark red winter tie? In wool? Bring it on!


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## Fading Fast




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## Fading Fast

A bit too-much prep all in one outfit for me, but I love that coat and the items individually. 








Any idea what that sliver of tan/camel that can be seen on the gentleman's upper left chest between the coat and rugby is?


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## cosmotoast

Fading Fast said:


> A bit too-much prep all in one outfit for me, but I love that coat and the items individually.
> View attachment 32029
> 
> Any idea what that sliver of tan/camel that can be seen on the gentleman's upper left chest between the coat and rugby is?


Looks like some kind of scarf?


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## paxonus

Fading Fast said:


> A bit too-much prep all in one outfit for me, but I love that coat and the items individually.
> View attachment 32029
> 
> Any idea what that sliver of tan/camel that can be seen on the gentleman's upper left chest between the coat and rugby is?


My guess is a jacket. Anyone wearing a tie who is that obsessed with layering would surely be wearing a jacket as well.


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## Oldsarge

How cold can it be that he needs that many layers?


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## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> How cold can it be that he needs that many layers?


If you think of the rugby as a sport coat substitute from a layering perspective - it's not different from a shirt-tie-sport-coat-overcoat outfit, but I get your point it's gotta be quite warm. Also, I love Ivy, but there's just something too much / too constructed about that outfit.


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## Oldsarge

I simply can't accept the rugby over the dress shirt and tie. A Fair Isle, a cardigan, a sweater vest . . . so many choices would be better. And it simply does not go with that wonderful overcoat.


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## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> I simply can't accept the rugby over the dress shirt and tie. A Fair Isle, a cardigan, a sweater vest . . . so many choices would be better. And it simply does not go with that wonderful overcoat.


I think it, in most cases, is an affected look unless you are a prep or college student and, then, maybe you can pull it off. Without the tie, it would be better.

In the '80s, I wore my wool tweed overcoat over everything as it was the only winter coat I had, so it went over jeans and rugbys, etc., but never as stylized as that pic.

Even today, if I'm wearing jeans, an OCBD and sweater, I'll throw a wool overcoat on and run errands (I don't wear rugbys anymore as I don't think they work on this 55 year old - and I never wore a rugby over a OCBD and tie).



paxonus said:


> My guess is a jacket. Anyone wearing a tie who is that obsessed with layering would surely be wearing a jacket as well.


Maybe, I just can't really see that from that piece of cloth - maybe, a scarf as cosmotoast suggested.


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## Oldsarge

Yes, without the tie it would work far better. I used to wear OCBD's under a Pendleton board shirt back in high school. Of course, in SoCal it never got cold enough to justify a tweed overcoat.


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## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> Yes, without the tie it would work far better. I used to wear OCBD's under a Pendleton board shirt back in high school. Of course, in SoCal it never got cold enough to justify a tweed overcoat.


I love living in the Northeast, in part, because the I can wear all four seasons of clothing - yup, I'm that simple and my life is that shallow.


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## Adriel Rowley

Since knew was going to volunteer with a group of women who need it refrigeration cold and ParaTransit also cold, why not wear my warmest tweed suit? Already had worn the tweed pants day before so this was the only other tweed pant option. At times still cold, though not nearly as much as last time.

Spent about 20 30 minutes trying to avoid this tie as know wear so often, though finally gave up, nothing else was working.

And did take this after the meeting in a hurry to change so could crash, was exhausted!

In short, still tweed season for me!


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## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

^^That is the perfect tie to pair with member Adriel Rowley's rig. Though it does work exceedingly well as a component of the rig with which it is posted. The Boutonniere is also a decided plus with that rig.


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## Oldsarge




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## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> A dark red winter tie? In wool? Bring it on!





eagle2250 said:


> ^^That is the perfect tie to pair with member Adriel Rowley's rig. Though it does work exceedingly well as a component of the rig with which it is posted. The Boutonniere is also a decided plus with that rig.


I see a learning opportunity, so how about it?

How about these?


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## Oldsarge

Exactly


----------



## eagle2250

^ ^The first and the third ties in your post #1237 above would pair quite nicely with the jacket you are wearing in post #1233. The tie in the middle picture is of a texture that will compete with and not complement the texture of your jacket.


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## Adriel Rowley

eagle2250 said:


> ^ ^The first and the third ties in your post #1237 above would pair quite nicely with the jacket you are wearing in post #1233. The tie in the middle picture is of a texture that will compete with and not complement the texture of your jacket.


When you say texture, does it need then a courser texture? The herringbone is super soft where my tick tweed suit is coarse.


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## eagle2250

^^
For the jacket in question, I would pair ties with a less aggressively textured finish to them. The wool tartan tie has a less aggressive finish to it and I think it works nicely with the hand of your jacket's fabric.


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## Flanderian




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## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> ^^That is the perfect tie to pair with member Adriel Rowley's rig. Though it does work exceedingly well as a component of the rig with which it is posted. The Boutonniere is also a decided plus with that rig.


You can also tell from his beard and flash of skin that the outfit harmonizes well his is coloring.


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## Fading Fast




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## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 32060


What an exceptional jacket!


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## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> What an exceptional jacket!


I thought so too - you know that's not an average garment.


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## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> You can also tell from his beard and flash of skin that the outfit harmonizes well his is coloring.


I been avoiding red ties except dark reds because in the past told wearing red was too much with my red hair. It is ridiculously hard to find sartorial material for redheads, yet you did it, so went on the hunt. I was outbid by one of those applications that puts in a half second before it ends, so will have to wait. I wish those applications be banned, not fair. Guess what I am saying is thank you for finding what I was trying to find a picture of.


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## Clintotron

My opinion is that you should never avoid something (cosmetic/sartorial) without a real-world trial. Make sure it is good advice by giving it a shot. Your skin tone may allow a red, even with your orange (not technically red) hair. And, when possible, try it in lighting that you’ll normally be found in. Artificial light varies GREATLY across the color spectrum, so daylight is best, in my opinion.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Peak and Pine

Adriel Rowley said:


> ...outbid by one of those applications that puts in a half second before it ends, so will have to wait. I wish those applications be banned, not fair.


Nay. I would not have the neatest collection of Chuck Taylors east of the Kennebec* were it not for eSnipe placing my usually-winning bid 1 second before the hammer comes down, yielding a double joy: another pair o'Chucks and my delight in pummeling another eBay rube.

Speaking of ties, you were, right?, parcel for you on counter, mail it maybe tomorrow.

*a river in Maine famous sorta for being the waterway on which Benedict Arnold and a bunch of rag tags sailed on their way to seize Quebec. Which they didn't


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## Adriel Rowley

Clintotron said:


> My opinion is that you should never avoid something (cosmetic/sartorial) without a real-world trial. Make sure it is good advice by giving it a shot. Your skin tone may allow a red, even with your orange (not technically red) hair. And, when possible, try it in lighting that you'll normally be found in. Artificial light varies GREATLY across the color spectrum, so daylight is best, in my opinion.


Though at what cost? For example, if you spend $50 on a tie and doesn't work.

I grew up with it being called red and really bothered be until accepted folks are not precise. So when someone yells "Hey Red" I know its me (especially when in the machine shop and have customers looking for the boss). Seems also has gotten less red and more orange as have gotten older.

For Autumns the recomendation is to avoid the bright reds especially near the face. The plaid tie think the red is toned down by the other colors, will see once can find an inexpensive option. Oh and some colors they say Autumns shouldn't wear which are recommended for Springs, I can wear some, for example, grays, brighter blues, and purples.



Peak and Pine said:


> Nay. I would not have the neatest collection of Chuck Taylors east of the Kennebec* were it not for eSnipe placing my usually-winning bid 1 second before the hammer comes down, yielding a double joy: another pair o'Chucks and my delight in pummeling another eBay rube.


:laughing:

In all seriousness, only have bid maybe half dozen times, if that. Years ago looked at a sniping programme and don't recall any being free, though was so very long ago. Will have to look into it, also save me the trouble having to sit there watching the screen for a minute.



Peak and Pine said:


> Speaking of ties, you were, right?, parcel for you on counter, mail it maybe tomorrow.


Right about what?

Fantastic, was wondering though was going to give a bit more time.



Peak and Pine said:


> *a river in Maine famous sorta for being the waterway on which Benedict Arnold and a bunch of rag tags sailed on their way to seize Quebec. Which they didn't


Learn something everyday. Now if can remember where I put my maps... Google doesn't show it, besides paper is always better.


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## Peak and Pine

Adriel Rowley said:


> Right about what?


Read it again, Sam. And note the comma.


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## Adriel Rowley

Tomorrow have to be up at sunrise and with our cool mornings (which loving) and hospitals are so darn cold, going with tweed pants and corduroy coat. Best could do with the ties, a Brooks Brothers maroon with bright light blue and white stripes. The biggest challenge with ties is this bright donegal tweed.


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## Peak and Pine

^

Hey it's Mr. Brown!

Why don't you light a little fire under that rig with a bright tie. Color? Any color you want. 'Cept camo maybe.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> Hey it's Mr. Brown!


I don't get the reference...



Peak and Pine said:


> Why don't you light a little fire under that rig with a bright tie. Color? Any color you want. 'Cept camo maybe.


The brightest I have is a medium purple (was Opa's so don't want to risk it) and a medium olive (think too refined for the tweed and corduroy).

Unless go with the rust and olive paisley you love so much.


----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> Hey it's Mr. Brown!
> 
> Why don't you light a little fire under that rig with a bright tie. Color? Any color you want. 'Cept camo maybe.


Camo is a good color..embrace the camo. My friend, I see you in my minds eye dressed head to toe in camo...and it looks good, sorta like the guys on Duck Dynasty!


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## Fading Fast

Some movie Tweed, from "Chariots of Fire"















Here's a shocker, I want his ⇧ coat.


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## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> Some movie Tweed, from "Chariots of Fire"
> View attachment 32077
> View attachment 32078
> 
> Here's a shocker, I want his ⇧ coat.


I do too! Look how stout it is, bet keep anyone warm in freezing weather.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Needing to kill at least an hour, get onto eBay to just browse for ties for tweeds and come upon this Scott, with an option to make an offer:










Put in for 25 percent off (so low got to leave some profit for the seller) and in a few minutes accepted my $4.12 offer, never had it that fast.

So how about more pictures of ties for tweed (not asking for a specific, just to add variety)?



























































































Time to go check in.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ A lot to like and a Fair Isle and shoes to love.

That guy looks like he's got his entire life in order.


----------



## eagle2250

^^Agreeing without reservation with your assessment, but that tie, to my eye, is the shinning star of that rig! Although, I must admit that those shoes made for a very tough choice.


----------



## CLTesquire

I'm starting to think ahead to the fall and a heavier jacket. Tweed is a bit much in NC for most of F/W but I'm kind of intrigued about something from the Minnis Worsted Alsport II book, which is marketed as city tweed. It's 12 ounces and should be pretty good down here. Anyone have any experience with the fabric?

They have plenty of plain herringbone selections but I like a little something extra with that so I thinking one of these, or a nice gunclub check, would be good to start with. Thoughts?


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Adriel Rowley

Think have found the tie for the aforementioned coat (third from the left), how about this color? Texture?










Thought is to pick up on the windowpane.


----------



## Fading Fast

After Flanderian's insanely great post yesterday, I tried to up my game today, but while this ⇩ is interesting (don't love the shirt pattern with that jacket), I couldn't find anything even close to being as good as his.


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## eagle2250

Adriel Rowley said:


> Think have found the tie for the aforementioned coat (third from the left), how about this color? Texture?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought is to pick up on the windowpane.


To my eye you have picked a winner. Although, the width may prove just a tad anemic. :icon_scratch: But the colors certainly compliment one another.


----------



## StephenRG

CLTesquire said:


> Thoughts?


My thoughts are that I need a jacket in this tweed


----------



## Adriel Rowley

eagle2250 said:


> To my eye you have picked a winner. Although, the width may prove just a tad anemic. :icon_scratch: But the colors certainly compliment one another.


Thank you for your help, appreciated.

Aren't knits supposed to be more narrow?

If the width bothers, put it under a pullover or vest. Aye, there is the rub... Fair Isle think be too much pattern and take away, solid red or similar blue?


----------



## Adriel Rowley

CLTesquire said:


> I'm starting to think ahead to the fall and a heavier jacket. Tweed is a bit much in NC for most of F/W but I'm kind of intrigued about something from the Minnis Worsted Alsport II book, which is marketed as city tweed. It's 12 ounces and should be pretty good down here. Anyone have any experience with the fabric?
> 
> They have plenty of plain herringbone selections but I like a little something extra with that so I thinking one of these, or a nice gunclub check, would be good to start with. Thoughts?


What season are you?

What formality and purpose? A day at the office or weekend at the cottage?

Seems an interesting fabric, looking forward to the results.


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## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 32117


Don't know why this and the other post I missed, maybe something to do with refresh.

Wonderful!


----------



## Fading Fast

Over on the Trad side of the House, in the "If You Could Bring Back One Thing" thread, there's been a spirited discussion of ascots, so I thought I'd combine that with our tweed thing here for the day:


----------



## Clintotron

Adriel Rowley said:


> Think have found the tie for the aforementioned coat (third from the left), how about this color? Texture?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought is to pick up on the windowpane.


While I'm no fan of a knit tie, I think that particular color would pair well with ALL of those jackets.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Clintotron

Adriel Rowley said:


> Tomorrow have to be up at sunrise and with our cool mornings (which loving) and hospitals are so darn cold, going with tweed pants and corduroy coat. Best could do with the ties, a Brooks Brothers maroon with bright light blue and white stripes. The biggest challenge with ties is this bright donegal tweed.












Is this a more accurate representation of color as it relates to the eye in reality?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Adriel Rowley

Thank you for the help, appreciated.



Clintotron said:


> Is this a more accurate representation of color as it relates to the eye in reality?


No. I had a friend situation so didn't make it home for best lighting though this is it:

Can you see my trouble pairing these pants with a tie?


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## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 32185


Prefer it to be a bit more past the knees, though what a coat and pattern! Wonderful!


----------



## Oldsarge

And you'd be correct IMO but there always are those who prefer fashion to style.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> And you'd be correct IMO but there always are those who prefer fashion to style.


Well then, would say look better cutting the pattern in the middle of the check, which land at the end of the knee.


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## Oldsarge

Nah, just get a proper length coat.


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## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> Nah, just get a proper length coat.


I was being ornery to the fashion folks.

Just below the knee is the shortest and to the ankle be the longest I go for. Think also depends the length of the coat under. For example, my longest is for the late '40s suit which is my longest suit. Just a thought...


----------



## Oldsarge

I only own one long coat, a trench. I've never worn it. In Portland it just doesn't get cold enough or rain hard enough (except for this evening) to justify it. Of course, all I have to do is run from the cover of a building to my car. If I lived downtown and had to either walk or use public trans, it would be different.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Love the jacket, vest and tie, but that shirt collar has to go...a cutaway is just wrong with a Tweed.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Love the jacket, vest and tie, but that shirt collar has to go...a cutaway is just wrong with a Tweed.


I agree. Also, that is a bold tweed that, I assume, is a sport coat. That said, in the '30s -'50s, it could have popped up as a suit.


----------



## Oldsarge

eagle2250 said:


> Love the jacket, vest and tie, but that shirt collar has to go...a cutaway is just wrong with a Tweed.


Dead right. That shirt is ridiculous in the context.


----------



## Fading Fast

Thought we'd close out the week with a bit of whimsy from "Brideshead Revisited"







Not even sure either is tweed (maybe the one of the left), but darn fun pic (love the collar bar), even if the bear steals the scene.


----------



## paxonus

Fading Fast said:


> Thought we'd close out the week with a bit of whimsy from "Brideshead Revisited"
> View attachment 32236
> Not even sure either is tweed (maybe the one of the left), but darn fun pick (love the collar bar), even if the bear steals the scene.


Slight breach of sartorial etiquette on that bottom waistcoat button.


----------



## Fading Fast

paxonus said:


> Slight breach of sartorial etiquette on that bottom waistcoat button.


Yes, good catch. And surprising, as you can tell much attention was given to the clothes in this production.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Bottom pic is awesome. When I think of old-world craftsmanship, that image could come to mind.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Button pic is awesome. When I think of old-world craftsmanship, that image could come to mind.


I agree, lovely tweeds!

I love cloth, and would ascend into rapture with my tailor's bunches! :amazing:

"I want this, and this, and this . . . . .

"That'll be $$$$$$$$$, young man!" 

I like the jacket in the top photo, and in addition to it being a traditional stout-weighted tweed, all the functional details intrigue me as well. Took me a moment to understand why there are buttons hanging for the back of the waist, for a detachable half-belt, of course! :idea:

If I had to guess, this looks like something Henry Poole might have run up.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## ran23

69F this morning, almost pulled out tweeds.


----------



## Fading Fast

I think a sweater vest would work better, but with that change (and a longer cut to the jacket), I think I'd like it.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 32254
> 
> I think a sweater vest would work better, but with that change (and a longer cut to the jacket), I think I'd like it.


Yeah. I'm with you. Let's make this guy over and send him home.

Guy, where do you get off wearing ice cream pants with tweed, huh? No good, that. And the jacket's too short and the sleeves too tight and you gotta funny look on your face. And button the buttons on your button down shirt. Nice beard tho.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 32249


Nice, but too much tie (says the man who believes God made three button coats for a reason).


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> Yeah. I'm with you. Let's make this guy over and send him home.
> 
> Guy, where do you get off wearing ice cream pants with tweed, huh? No good, that. And the jacket's too short and the sleeves too tight and you gotta funny look on your face. And button the buttons on your button down shirt. Nice beard tho.


Agreed on the jacket and the button-down collar (there might have been a time when not doing those buttons gave an outfit a spike of something, but in our over-analyzing age, that time is well past); however, I think (with the vest swapped out for a sweater) the pants (thankfully heavy cords, so no mixing and matching of seasons) could provide a cool winter-white boost to the outfit. I'm seeing tan or snuff suede wingtips at the bottom.

And as a guy who still can't grow a respectable beard at 55, I'm with you - that's one darn fine-looking one he's sporting. But I do have that same kooky widow's peak hairline men of a certain age get which, fyi, tells you how your hair will part / you don't have any say in the matter.


----------



## Oldsarge

Any man who still has hair can wear it any way he wants.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

I know there is developing a theme... Though no one else mentioned, wouldn't a tie with more texture be a better choice?


----------



## Fading Fast

Love the sport coat, am okay with the tie and (I guess) the vest, not crazy about the shirt collar and hate the pocket square.


----------



## Oldsarge

I consider that a business suit tie and the shirt collar is completely inappropriate for the coat and vest. Who set that up, anyway? Someone who has never been outside of Manhattan?


----------



## Oldsarge

Adriel Rowley said:


> I know there is developing a theme... Though no one else mentioned, wouldn't a tie with more texture be a better choice?


Yes, it would. If you're going to wear a silk tie with tweed it should have a sporting motif, like fish, game birds, lacrosse sticks or something along those lines.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> Yes, it would. If you're going to wear a silk tie with tweed it should have a sporting motif, like fish, game birds, lacrosse sticks or something along those lines.


Wow. You is pretty strict about this. Ruler across my hands if caught in that rig. And I might be. Like everything about it, save the square since I don't like squares period. Don't own any ties with fish, but will look into it. The vest, it's not, it's a sweater. I am standing in the corner as I write.


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> ... save the square since I don't like squares period. ...


Usually, I feel I'm being enfilade when going back and forth with you on clothing (enjoy our discussions immensely, just feel like the bullets are wizzing by or scoring hits with others around me screaming "medic!"), so I was pleasantly surprised to see that you share my not-high opinion of PS. 90+% of the time, I didn't and don't wear one and don't like most of the ones I see on others or in outfits here; <10% of the time, I think they enhance an outfit if done very quietly.


----------



## Oldsarge

For those of quiet nature, that is an admirable stance. Unfortunately, 'quiet' and I are not on familiar terms.


----------



## Fading Fast

Thought I'd avoid the PS issue altogether today  .


----------



## Oldsarge

He looks set for a early spring day in the garden or possibly the stables.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Thought I'd avoid the PS issue altogether today  .
> View attachment 32305


That Jacket, the shirt and the rust'orange hued sweater vest were made for each other . That rig really works well together. :amazing:


----------



## StephenRG

I can't help noticing that the substantial and stiff nature of tweed permits a very fine lapel roll!


----------



## Fading Fast

StephenRG said:


> I can't help noticing that the substantial and stiff nature of tweed permits a very fine lapel roll!


You inspired today's pic:


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> Usually, I feel I'm being enfilade when going back and forth with you on clothing (enjoy our discussions immensely, just feel like the bullets are wizzing by or scoring hits with others around me screaming "medic!"), so I was pleasantly surprised to see that you share my not-high opinion of PS. 90+% of the time, I didn't and don't wear one and don't like most of the ones I see on others or in outfits here; <10% of the time, I think they enhance an outfit if done very quietly


Duck. Incoming.

We all have rules we make up just for ourselves. Regarding what gets stuffed in a breast pocket: nothing, if you want to be taken seriously. But there's an exception, a four part one...

1. It's summer.
2. It's not a suit.
3. There is no tie.
4. The jacket is kept unbuttoned.

I am wearing such now. Cream, unbuttoned linen jacket, snow white button-down, collar opened, a plum and green square showing about an eye brow's width. I am at a hotspot with a laptop because the forum upgrade does not allow me to post on mobile (home). So this is it for awhile.


----------



## Oldsarge

Ah, there's my advantage. I rarely take anything seriously.


----------



## Fading Fast

And something from the distaff tweed universe:








Sleeves are too short (probably 'cause the model is much taller than most women and they brought a OTR fit to the shoot), but the stripes line up nicely from the body to the sleeves.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^
The jacket is unconventional, very short all over, velvet collar, ticket pocket beneath hip pocket rather than above, covered buttons, zero garment showing at very short sleeve, beautiful woman, beautiful '55 Chevy truck. I think all is okay. (Ralph Lauren?)


----------



## Oldsarge

Well, she _could_ use a decent meal or two but otherwise, I agree.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 32361


Oh, _most_ satisfactory!


----------



## eagle2250

^^Indeed,
it couldn't be done much better than that!


----------



## Odradek

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> The jacket is unconventional, very short all over, velvet collar, ticket pocket beneath hip pocket rather than above, covered buttons, zero garment showing at very short sleeve, beautiful woman, beautiful '55 Chevy truck. I think all is okay. (Ralph Lauren?)


Land Rover Defender Pickup.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Odradek said:


> Land Rover Defender Pickup.


Googled it. You're correct. Ugly vehicle though. Now you Google '55 Chevy. Go close in on just the area shown in the posted pic and see the incredible similarities, especially the rare wrap-around rear window and roof seam gutter, though the Chevy windows pitch forward slightly. Mid fifties Chevy and GMCs, gorgeous trucks. Might take me awhile to cozy up to the Rovers. But thanks for pointing this out.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

Something a little different


----------



## Oldsarge

But fascinating!


----------



## eagle2250

^^Egad,
I'm experiencing a full on love affair with that coat! It's 93 degrees out on our front porch. Have I lost my ever-lovin mind? LOL


----------



## Oldsarge

eagle2250 said:


> ^^Egad,
> I'm experiencing a full on love affair with that coat! It's 93 degrees out on our front porch. Have I lost my ever-lovin mind? LOL


A vacation to the Outer Hebrides might be in order?


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> A vacation to the Outer Hebrides might be in order?


That's a great thought. I've felt badly for Eagle's southern clothing limitation, so a vacation to a colder climate would be a great choice. Leaf season in the fall in New England is a Shetland / Tweed extravaganza (just saying).


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Parden me while I bomb the latest picture. Joan Crawford's always wondered where that coat went. I could use those shoulders to square up the joists on the porch I'm building. The coat's a full Norfolk, a favorite style, have a few and don't like to see them fem'ed up (and popped collar to boot).

The inividual stuff's okay, but just okay, messed up with every single piece having a pattern. A donegal is the busiest weave there is, so maybe simple up the shirt and tie, lose the square, put the hat back on the rack and wear an adult sweater. No Fair Isles after age 12. (Seeing _Dunkirk has_ hardened this view.)

Rough review I know. But I'm out of sorts today, accidentially dropped a fire cracker on the cat yesterday and she called 911 on me. Imagine. Maybe consider a thread title change to Let's Fawn Over Every Tweed We See and I will be a good boy and promise to shut up.


----------



## StephenRG

Peak and Pine said:


> No Fair Isles after age 12.


Words to live by.


----------



## Fading Fast

Not usually a fan of the popped jacket (or any) collar, but I think our bear friend here pulls it off without being pretentious. And he's clearly consulted or intuited the color wheel as the orange sweater harmonizes wonderfully with his golden fur.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

I do like that coat, but would like it even more if the bottom edge of the (I think it's called) cape had been cut to lie straight across the chest. That would have allowed more pleasing/more accurate pattern matching to have been achieved along that seam.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> I do like that coat, but would like it even more if the bottom edge of the (I think it's called) cape had been cut to lie straight across the chest. That would have allowed more pleasing/more accurate pattern matching to have been achieved along that seam.


Agreed, not just saying it, I thought it hurt the line / alignment as well.


----------



## Peak and Pine

eagle2250 said:


> would like it even more if the bottom edge of the cape had been cut to lie straight across the chest. That would have allowed more pleasing/more accurate pattern matching





Fading Fast said:


> Agreed, not just saying it, I thought it hurt the line / alignment as well.


Look again. That's how you match a coat with that much going on. It's tedious, master work. There are horozontal straps that begin underneath the cape and run downward to the top of the hip pocket flaps and bulge at the waist to form belt loops. Underneath the straps are darts, deep ones here apparently. Darts pull the plaid out of its original alignment, but that's expected and is right/left symetrical. Straps are not placed absolutely straight, but curve slightly inward as they reach conclusion. The cape has a more pleasing line on a rigidly square pattern such as this if curved.

Most eyes are not used to seeing all of this complexity and at first glance appears out of whack. Yet the most truly out of whack element of this and every patterned jacket is never complained about because the eye is used to it...the never-matching pattern of the pressed back lapel, because it's impossible to do it any other way. Ditto with a honey of a maze of a jacket like this.

A full Norfolk such as this is my second most favorite jacket. My most favorite is a half Norfolk. A no Norfolk, I'll put up with, but just.


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> Look again. That's how you match a coat with that much going on. It's tedious, master work. There are horozontal straps that begin underneath the cape and run downward to the top of the hip pocket flaps and bulge at the waist to form belt loops. Underneath the straps are darts, deep ones here apparently. Darts pull the plaid out of its original alignment, but that's expected and is right/left symetrical. Straps are not placed absolutely straight, but curve slightly inward as they reach conclusion. The cape has a more pleasing line on a rigidly square pattern such as this if curved.
> 
> Most eyes are not used to seeing all of this complexity and at first glance appears out of whack. Yet the most truly out of whack element of this and every patterned jacket is never complained about because the eye is used to it...the never-matching pattern of the pressed back lapel, because it's impossible to do it any other way.
> 
> A full Norfolk such as this is my second most favorite jacket. My most favorite is a half Norfolk. A no Norfolk, I'll put up with, but just.


As I've noted often - I learn on this site almost every day. The trade off - as you note - is perforce and putatively aesthetically optimizing. Cool stuff - thank you.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

And you've learned me two new P words. Perchance you can learn me that the object of learn can never be a pronoun.


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> And you've learned me two new P words. Perchance you can learn me that the object of learn can never be a pronoun.


The experienced writer knows when to suspend the rules and you, sir, are an experienced writer.


----------



## Fading Fast

Staying with turtlenecks under shooting jacket for one more day.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Very nice. But you are calling it a shooting jacket because...?

Maybe you fell for that load from @Oldsarge about the buttons above the pockets are so the flaps can be kept up for easy access to ammo. Dunno about that, think maybe the buttons might be for easy access to Little Debbies, particular the Star Crunch. Shooters be damned.


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> Very nice. And you are calling it a shooting jacket because...?
> 
> So you fell for that load from @Oldsarge about the buttons above the pockets are so the flaps can be kept up for easy access to ammo. Yeah, sure. The buttons are for easy access to Little Debbies, particular the Star Crunch. Shooters be damned.


It was less complicated than that - the photo's caption said "shooting jacket."


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Well there you go. But be careful of captions. My yearbook picture says _Ugly, pimpled boy who may grow up to be nothing._


----------



## Oldsarge

Careful, that's too easy an opening. 😁


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> Careful, that's too easy an opening. 😁


Go for it. I had a Kevlar wrap put on this Samsung J7 Skypro. The pimples are gone. The rest, not so sure.


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> Go for it. I had a Kevlar wrap put on this Samsung J7 Skypro. The pimples are gone. The rest, not so sure.


ROLMAO I got called the class brain, mostly because I had an opinion on any and all possible subjects whether I knew anything or not. Now one of my classmates got a 4-year free ride in physics and chemistry to CalTech and ended up with a career with NASA. He was a real rocket scientist! So comments in class yearbooks can be disregarded. I mean, what does another high school student know about anything?


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

I kind of wonder about _two _scarves. Just how cold is it out there?


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 32453
> 
> I kind of wonder about _two _scarves. Just how cold is it out there?


It's one scarf, reversable.


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> It's one scarf, reversable.


Good eye! I didn't even see that.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 32453
> 
> I kind of wonder about _two _scarves. Just how cold is it out there?


That coat echoes 1930s Apparel Arts style.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> Good eye!


Honed on peep shows and sofa cushions looking for change.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> That coat echoes 1930s Apparel Arts style.
> 
> View attachment 32457


Forgive my digs in this thread because I really like it and value those who take the time to dig this stuff up...but, no, that coat doesn't echo the previous. They're both plaid. That's it.


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> Forgive my digs in this thread because I really like it and value those who take the time to dig this stuff up...but, no, that coat doesn't echo the previous. They're both plaid. That's it.


No offense taken at all - all just good-willed banter and sharing of opinions.

My view is that in the 1930s, it was quite common to see plaid overcoats and big-scaled herringbone overcoats and houndstooth overcoats and... - it was a very bold style period. Today (or ten-or-more years ago when people still bought overcoats), the overcoat section was a sea of a few monochromatic (mainly dark) coats with no or very subtle patterns (tone on tone or very small-in-scale patterns that all but disappeared at any distance).

Of course, the two coats I noted are only similar in a few broad strokes - a bold pattern and two colors showing strong contrast in each - but, IMHO, that distinguishes them from the majority of overcoats in the last couple of decades (and - ignoring the '70s mess - longer). It's a vibe that, as noted, really echoes the '30s when you'd see everyday/regular guys in bold-colored-and-patterned overcoats.

In the '80s, when I started working, either of those overcoats would have called attention to the wearer, from what I can tell from '30s pictures and movies (and books), they wouldn't have. That is the distinction and echo that I still see and that I was trying to draw attention to.

Edit add - To be fair, you could argue that some version of those coats were close to the norm up through the '50s, but the zenith of the bold coat still seems to be the '30s.


----------



## Fading Fast

Inside Fading Fast's small brain today - "What won't be controversial in any way? I know, fabric pics - everyone likes fabric pics."


----------



## eagle2250

^^
That is a timeless photographic approach for displaying one's beloved Tweed collection. Although in this present instance I am mildly surprised that woven leather buttons are not a more frequently chosen option. Myself, I love the darn things.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> That is a timeless photographic approach for displaying one's beloved Tweed collection. Although in this present instance I am mildly surprised that woven leather buttons are not a more frequently chosen option. Myself, I love the darn things.


Did you just launch Buttongate? 

Kidding aside, I, too, like woven leather buttons, but the trend definitely seems to be moving away from them. I've had to buy them separately and put them on a few items over the last several years.


----------



## Oldsarge

I noticed that myself. Even Hemrajani doesn't seem to have them as an option. I could be mistaken, though.


----------



## Fading Fast

On our current subject of buttons, how cool is this:


----------



## eagle2250

^^
That could well be the holy grail of buttons for a Tweed!


----------



## Oldsarge

If anyone finds a source for them, tell the community here first. WANT!


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> That could well be the holy grail of buttons for a Tweed!





Oldsarge said:


> If anyone finds a source for them, tell the community here first. WANT!


I'm with you guys - those are insane. Love to get a couple of sets.


----------



## Fading Fast

No more Harris Tweed branded ones, but did like these pics:


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

That is indeed a very handsome Keeper's Coat. Is it available in a somewhat lighter and cooler cotton poplin version?


----------



## Oldsarge

For money, _everything_ is available.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

I wore a silk slub grey and black herringbone sport coat, does that count as tweed?


----------



## eagle2250

^^
I'm thinking that it would indeed count as a Tweed. Do you have a picture?


----------



## Fading Fast

In our continuing occasional series of "Tweed Goes To The Movies," we have Redford's black and white herringbone tweed sport coat from 2001's *Spy Games*:






















A bit '90s "big" cut, but still a cool-as-heck jacket.

And a nice echo back to Redford's insanely cool similar sport coat from 1975's "Three Days of the Condor," which we've already highlighted once in this series:


----------



## Oldsarge

'20's school teacher


----------



## Adriel Rowley

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> I'm thinking that it would indeed count as a Tweed. Do you have a picture?


Right now, this is all can provide.


----------



## eagle2250

Adriel Rowley said:


> Right now, this is all can provide.
> 
> View attachment 32577


Aye, now that's a Tweed.....and a handsome one at that!


----------



## Fading Fast

For me, the tie needs more roughness/texture (some wool say) to harmonize better with the suit.


----------



## eagle2250

^^
Take away the vest and I am in complete agreement with your assessment, but with the jacket and vest combination, the tie in the picture provides an arguably refreshing textural contrast, to my eye.


----------



## FiscalDean

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> Take away the vest and I am in complete agreement with your assessment, but with the jacket and vest combination, the tie in the picture provides an arguably refreshing textural contrast, to my eye.


Agreed, the ideal would be a more textured tie, there is nothing wrong with the combination pictured.


----------



## Fading Fast

FiscalDean said:


> Agreed, the ideal would be a more textured tie, there is nothing wrong with the combination pictured.


I believe we are saying close to the same thing as I like the tie's color and pattern with the suit, just think it needs more roughness texture-wise.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

Lovely coat but I don't care for the cut of the vest.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> Lovely coat but I don't care for the cut of the vest.


What in particular - the lapel?


----------



## Oldsarge

Yes, I think that's it. Of course it could be just the way it's stretched over the manikin.


----------



## eagle2250

^^
To my eye the vest buttons too far up on the torso. Looks almost like a cardigan version of a crew neck collar. It just looks out of balance.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

^

To properly appreciate the above, place your thumb on the screen so it obscures the pocket square. Do this every time you see _any_ picture that contains a pocket square.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 32616


The blue donegal outfit, boffo. The vest that you all are grousing about may well be a jerkin, the collar may be a shawl. Embrace the beauty of a lotta wool and little shirt showing. Picture it open-collared with a forest green shirt. King Lear out for a stormy stroll.


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> To properly appreciate the above, place your thumb on the screen so it obscures the pocket square. Do this every time you see _any_ picture that contains a pocket square.


My thoughts exactly on this outfit and on most, but will say, occasionally, I like a modest pocket square.


----------



## Oldsarge

Jerkin? I think not. Jerkins are utilitarian/battledress, not over buttoned foppery. Whatever it is, I second the forest green shirt but would put a neckerchief under it.


----------



## FiscalDean

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 32631


I'm really liking that tie.


----------



## Fading Fast

FiscalDean said:


> I'm really liking that tie.


He could travel the globe and not find a better match for that jacket.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> Jerkin? I think not. Jerkins are utilitarian/battledress, not over buttoned foppery. Whatever it is, I second the forest green shirt but would put a neckerchief under it.


True on the battle dress. And pea coats must only be worn at sea. Military gear often evolves. Like this camo couch on which I sit. Not. Jerkins tho go back to before Shakespear and every so often at a yard sale I buy a dollar tweed of any size, take off the arms, add a few buttons and presto. Large for outer wear, smaller for under-costs.

Like the kneckerchief idea. Not for me, but others could look swell.


----------



## Fading Fast

Love the jacket's material (really love it). Vest seems off and tie might be okay if it wasn't all askew. And (h/t to P&P), I'd lose the PS altogether.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

It's called burlap.
Naw, just funin' ya. Very broadly woven donegal, nice (although Shaver doesn't allow us to use that word, prig). The photo angle's poor and assorted ahcootrahmaw off kilt, but the jacket's swell. What does h/t mean?


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> It's called burlap.
> Naw, just funin' ya. Very broadly woven donegal, nice (although Shaver doesn't allow us to use that word, prig). The photo angle's poor and assorted ahcootrahmaw off kilt, but the jacket's swell. What does h/t mean?


hat tip.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

^^
Perfect...absolutely perfect!


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Plus really, really boring. 

The thread's on a donegal streak lately. Fine. Sort of. How about more crazy wazy English plaids.

Special to FF:
Do not have the ability to lift and plant pics with this Betty Crocker cell, but perhaps you could. Came across a delightful pic (on Daily Mail maybe?) of the Queen coo-cooing with Prince Archie. To the left is the 125 year old Prince Phil wearing a swell striped tweed. Capture that pic please for all to see. I have something similar, but believe his may be a suit. Thank ye.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> Perfect...absolutely perfect!


I'm a big fan too. Absolutely love the material and think that sweater is the perfect color for it. As opposed to P&P, I think the jacket provides enough oomph that it's not boring, but it's all opinion.



Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> Plus really, really boring.
> 
> The thread's on a donegal streak lately. Fine. Sort of. How about more crazy wazy English plaids.
> 
> Special to FF:
> Do not have the ability to lift and plant pics with this Betty Crocker cell, but perhaps you could. Came across a delightful pic (on Daily Mail maybe?) of the Queen coo-cooing with Prince Archie. To the left is the 125 year old Prince Phil wearing a swell striped tweed. Capture that pic please for all to see. I have something similar, but believe his may be a suit. Thank ye.


Is this ⇩ it?


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Well, well, really well. That would be it. Thank ye. Resolution's poor and not your fault, probably my cell here, but I originally saw it on a laptop at a hot spot and the Duke of Earl's jacket is a heavy swelled seam tweed with subtle striping. Nice. (Sorry, Shaver.) Can't say I want one since I think I already have one. Will check.

*****************

Many years ago, in '65, I waited in a small crowd to see Prince Phillip arrive to dedicate a new wing of a British run hospital on the upper west (or east?) side in your town. A very, very small crowd I soon realized: just me. The others cleared out when the bus they were waiting for rolled up. Phillip would have been about 40 and, excuse this, drop dead gorgeous (as was his car) in a green suit, the first time I had ever seen a green suit. Through the years I have amassed a trunk full. His influence lingers. Thanks again for finding the pic.


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> Well, well, really well. That would be it. Thank ye. Resolution's poor and not your fault, probably my cell here, but I originally saw it on a laptop at a hot spot and the Duke of Earl's jacket is a heavy swelled seam tweed with subtle striping. Nice. (Sorry, Shaver.) Can't say I want one since I think I already have one. Will check.
> 
> *****************
> 
> Many years ago, in '65, I waited in a small crowd to see Prince Phillip arrive to dedicate a new wing of a British run hospital on the upper west (or east?) side in your town. A very, very small crowd I soon realized: just me. The others cleared out when the bus they were waiting for rolled up. Phillip would have been about 40 and, excuse this, drop dead gorgeous (as was his car) in a green suit, the first time I had ever seen a green suit. Through the years I have amassed a trunk full. His influence lingers. Thanks again for finding the pic.


Did some more searching to try to address the resolution issue - so far, this is the best one I could find. I'll keep trying.


----------



## Fading Fast

Love the material, must be quite the three-piece suit - wish the pick showed it all.

I'd lose that mess of a pocket square altogether and (since, apparently, I'm running the world), I wouldn't have gone with a mini check shirt as it modestly fights the suits pattern.


----------



## Oldsarge

Yes, that picture definitely could go on the Pocket Square Overkill Thread. Too much of a good thing is not necessarily wonderful. Sorry, Mae.


----------



## ItalianStyle

I see it.


----------



## Fading Fast

Let's do something a little different for Sunday.

Which label - Harris Tweed's or Donegal's do you like better?

While there are a few (or more) versions of each, I tried to choose a common one.

I thought I could insert a poll, but I guess you can only do that if you start a new thread (and I'm not that crazy - my girlfriend is raising and waving her hand eagerly in the background, I'm ignoring her), so I think we can tell who "won" by the follow up posts and comments.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Let's do something a little different for Sunday.
> 
> Which label - Harris Tweed's or Donegal's do you like better?
> 
> While there are a few (or more) versions of each, I tried to choose a common one.
> 
> I thought I could insert a poll, but I guess you can only do that if you start a new thread (and I'm not that crazy - my girlfriend is raising and waving her hand eagerly in the background, I'm ignoring her), so I think we can tell who "won" by the follow up posts and comments.
> 
> View attachment 32712
> View attachment 32713
> View attachment 32714
> View attachment 32716


LOL. I admire your courage, but question the wisdom of "ignoring your better half's attempts to get your attention." As for label preferences, my choice is The Donegal Tweed label. It's just easier for us old timers to identify with a picture of a cottage setting in a meadow at the foot of a mountain range, than it is to identify with a futuristic Christmas Ball, topped with an Iron Cross. Now please keep this to yourselves because I don't want any enraged masses from the Outer Hebrides to come looking for me!


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

...and besides, that cottage thing has got a little Thomas Kincaid to it. And we all know how @eagle2250 and the missus love that. Me, I choose the Harris Tweed. Because it doesn't have a little Thomas Kincaid to it. Neither, however, approach the greatness of the dead sheep in a sling of Brooks Brothers. Or the greatest logo of all time, the CBS eye.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> LOL. I admire your courage, but question the wisdom of "ignoring your better half's attempts to get your attention." As for label preferences, my choice is The Donegal Tweed label. It's just easier for us old timers to identify with a picture of a cottage setting in a meadow at the foot of a mountain range, than it is to identify with a futuristic Christmas Ball, topped with an Iron Cross. Now please keep this to yourselves because I don't want any enraged masses from the Outer Hebrides to come looking for me!


Oh, she was just raising her hand to disagree as she does every time I say, "I'm not crazy." 

As to logos and your and P&P's comment, my favorite clothing one of all time is Paul Stuart's man on the fence..









As to the wider universe, I'll have to think some about that, but I've always liked Coke's and Merrill Lynch's (who, for as they say, full disclosure) I worked for for years. But I feel I'm missing some less prominent ones that I know I love.


----------



## Oldsarge

You do know that the CBS logo is a direct ripoff of Paul Magritte?


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> You do know that the CBS logo is a direct ripoff of Paul Magritte?
> View attachment 32754


No. I don't know who Magritte is.

I am only familiar with two artists. N.C, Wyeth and Gary Larson. And whiile I don't doubt what you say, though I question the phrase_ direct rip off_, depiction of the human eye has been in the public domain since before Christ, so I'd be surprised that any individual has had the nerve to claim dibs on it.


----------



## Oldsarge

No one before Magritte (one of the most famous surrealists) ever painted the human eye as containing sky and clouds. CBS claims that one of its designers was inspired by Pennsylvania Dutch barn paintings. I claim BS.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> No one before Magritte (one of the most famous surrealists) ever painted the human eye as containing sky and clouds. CBS claims that one of its designers was inspired by Pennsylvania Dutch barn paintings. I claim BS.


That Magritte is a famous surealist would explain why I've never heard of him. Not far removed from famous imprisoned rapper A$AP who until this morning I'd never heard of either. The stuff I've never heard of is endless. Now Magritte, you say, was the first to paint clouds and sky into an eye (which sometimes can be seen in the reflection of a real eye I've heard), how does that relate to CBS's eye which contains neither?

Fun fact. Did you know that the letters CBS stand for nothing? Originally it was the Columbia Broadcasting System, a cool name. But about 30 years or so ago they legally changed their name to just CBS, and scrapped entirely the Columbia thing.


----------



## Oldsarge

Shape. Just shape.


----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> No one before Magritte (one of the most famous surrealists) ever painted the human eye as containing sky and clouds. CBS claims that one of its designers was inspired by Pennsylvania Dutch barn paintings. I claim BS.


Barn paintings? You mean those 'side of the barn' sized Red Man Tobacco advertisements? There were at least three barns in the area I grew up in in Pennsylvania that sported those paintings!


----------



## Fading Fast

A little something out there for Monday:
















Not a sweater I'd wear, but if it's in your wheelhouse, I like the outfit built around it except for the tie, which needs a rough texture to hold up to the rest of the outfit.

I also, probably, wouldn't have gone with a bright-white shirt as it seems to fight the earth-tone "mutedness" of the rest of the outfit. Oh, and I'd lose the pocket square.

But the jacket (which I like a lot), sweater, pants, socks and chukkas make a wonderful outfit if the sweater's your thing.


----------



## eagle2250

^^Indeed, 
the rig looks great, but for gawd's sake, why is the guy walking around with his shoes untied? It is not a good look and it is a bad foundation on which to build a manly strut!


----------



## Peak and Pine

eagle2250 said:


> ... for gawd's sake, why is the guy walking around with his shoes untied?


You see anybody walking in that picture? You've never sat down to relieve your barking dogs and loosened the laces? Or maybe you didn't have to since Crocs don't have laces. Anyway, I sorta like the outfit, white shirts never seem out of place and am not a stickler about a rough hewn tie with a tweed --- actually never considered that until this forum.


----------



## Fading Fast

Too much lapel action for me - the jacket's are too wide and vest doesn't need them at all. I do like the tie though and the PS is innocuous enough that it doesn't bother me .


----------



## Oldsarge

Isn't that the guy from Antiques Roadshow?


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> Isn't that the guy from Antiques Roadshow?


No idea, just saw the pic and thought it would work here. I do watch AR, and I think I know the guy you are referring to, but I'd need to see more of his face to answer.


----------



## Fading Fast

All good sans the pocket square (to me, it's just one thing too much).


----------



## eagle2250

I agree with your assessment. That pocket square is just wrong for that rig. However, while I am mildly surprised to say this, but to my eyes that heathered blue sweater really works well with that rig! The flying pheasant emblematic tie is one of my favorites.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> All good sans the pocket square (to me, it's just one thing too much).
> View attachment 32864


Normally I am delighted with color and patterns but, yes, that was not a fortunate choice of PS. Something solid would have gone better. But the rest of the ensemble is smashing!


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> I agree with your assessment. That pocket square is just wrong for that rig. However, while I am mildly surprised to say this, but to my eyes that heathered blue sweater really works well with that rig! The flying pheasant emblematic tie is one of my favorites.


I'm not just saying this, but I, too, almost wanted to not like the sweater, but darn it, it works really well with the outfit.

I think it's because it has the same tone or tint or brightness (or something) as the stripe in the jacket, so even though they aren't the same color, they echo each other (and help tie the outfit together).

Also, the sweater works well with the shirt as the two blues are appropriately far apart but still in the same family.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Too many pics are getting like the above, a (maybe, who can tell) fat old, pimply dude taking a close-in selfie of a tenth of his outfit. I can do that and tell you I look like DeCaprio. Not FF's doing, the fault's with the picture taker. You can't even see the shoulders for Chr**t's sake. These are paint swatches, you need the whole room.


----------



## Fading Fast

To P&P's point above, and I thank him for the exculpation, I tried to find one with better perspective, but (like me) most people want to remain anonymous, so for a "wider" view, you end up with the "model" ones like this and even these aren't full-perspective shots. And, yet et, again, I'd lose the PS.


----------



## eagle2250

The jacket, the sweater vest and the tie are perfectly paired in that rig, but why-oh-why is that newbie wearing a collar pin with an unbuttoned button down collar?


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> The jacket, the sweater vest and the tie are perfectly paired in that rig, but why-oh-why is that newbie wearing a collar pin with an unbuttoned button down collar?


There was a moment (hopefully over) where that was the fashion industry's top-down effort at sprezzatura, as contradictory as that is.


----------



## eagle2250

🤮^^

I have no doubt that you are right in what you say
....but alas, our goal was never to be fashionable, but rather stylish!


----------



## Oldsarge

Fashion can be purchased. Style comes from within.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Bravo, FF.


----------



## Fading Fast

Like:

Material of the sport coat
Fair Isle
Trousers (I guess, hard to see detail)

Not lIke:

The boutonnière, but to be fair, I've never liked any boutonnière ever
Extreme peak lapels
The cut of the shirt's collar
Meh on the tie


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## mlenecare

I really want that jacket^


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

While difficult to tell from the way the above pic is photographed, the collar may be wide enough to touch the peaks of the lapels, something usually only done on outer coats, like jeep and pea coats, so I'll assume this is that, an outer coat though the use of a pocket square there would be rare. It's a swell coat.

Folks may want to go up one more to the pic pasted up by Fading Fast, blow it up and note that the lapels are actually piped and in a fabric resembling a g'plaid. Unusual. I like both these coats.


----------



## Peak and Pine

mlenecare said:


> I really want that *jacket*^


I think it's an outer coat. @Flanderian may clarify.


----------



## mlenecare

Peak and Pine said:


> I think it's an outer coat. @Flanderian may clarify.


It does look like a coat


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Woofa

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 32928
> 
> 
> Like:
> 
> Material of the sport coat
> Fair Isle
> Trousers (I guess, hard to see detail)
> 
> Not lIke:
> 
> The boutonnière, but to be fair, I've never liked any boutonnière ever
> Extreme peak lapels
> The cut of the shirt's collar
> Meh on the tie


I would be willing to bet this is a woman. Thus some of the details.


----------



## Oldsarge

Certainly a possibility.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

Staying with Sarge's theme of conservative classic combos:


----------



## Fading Fast

Something a touch different. It feels very / echoes the 1950s to me:


----------



## eagle2250

^^
Having lived through the 1950's and several decades since then, I can affirm that your instinctual dating of the design is spot on. However, given the realities of my present age and the effects of aging on one's memory function, I cannot confirm the validity of my observation! :crazy: I can say with absolute confidence, I like the design.


----------



## Fading Fast

Lose the pocket square and I'm good. Love the tie.


----------



## eagle2250

That is a stunning jacket; works well with the university striped shirt and that forest green tie. Is the emblem on the tie a falcon? If so, nice touch.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> That is a stunning jacket; works well with the university striped shirt and that forest green tie. Is the emblem on the tie a falcon? If so, nice touch.


Agreed - it drapes well, usually a sign of a well-made garment.


----------



## Fading Fast

All he needs to do is lose the pocket square, oops, force of habit.


----------



## Oldsarge

I like country pocket squares in tweed jackets!


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> I like country pocket squares in tweed jackets!


Misread this the first time and deleted my post (I hadn't typed anything rude, just didn't get you were advocating for a PS). I'm not with you on the PS, but it's an opinion, nothing more. I really like the jacket and what he's done with the outfit as it takes an old-style (by today's standards) sport coat and makes it not look at all costume-y or fussy. I could see, in NYC anyway, wearing that without getting too much notice or grief.


----------



## Oldsarge

I believe it depends on the situation. If one is just 'knocking around' with a jacket on, then the PS is a bit much. However, should the wearer be sporting a neckerchief or a tattersall shirt with a emblematic tie, then I think the PS adds to the ambience. And if one is wearing Wellingtons and carrying a double gun then a plain, cotton PS helps the clean-up back in the Land Rover!


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> ... And if one is wearing Wellingtons and carrying a double gun then a plain, cotton PS helps the clean-up back in the Land Rover!


Nice.


----------



## Fading Fast

Something a bit different for today. The text is fun to read - strong attempt at branding.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

^^
It just doesn't get any better than that! The tie is perfect with that jacket.


----------



## Oldsarge

Spot on!


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> It just doesn't get any better than that! The tie is perfect with that jacket.


Agreed, I even like the collar bar - it adds just enough to make it not look like a catalogue shot .


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## ran23

wish it was Autumn again.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 33249


You need a very high confidence factor to pull that suit off - beautiful as it may be - in today's world.

And that's a darn handsome looking Polo coat.


----------



## FiscalDean

Fading Fast said:


> You need a very high confidence factor to pull that suit off - beautiful as it may be - in today's world.
> 
> And that's a darn handsome looking Polo coat.


That is a nice polo coat. I don't know his name but there is an appraiser on Antiques Road Show that would feel right at home in the suit.


----------



## eagle2250

^^(In response to post #1457) +1 That is a stunningly handsome jacket,
but I would be inclined to wear the jacket and polo coat, replacing the suit pants with an appropriately hued odd trousers!


----------



## Fading Fast

FiscalDean said:


> That is a nice polo coat. I don't know his name but there is an appraiser on Antiques Road Show that would feel right at home in the suit.


From the article "Getting to Know the Top Five Antique Roadshow Appraisers"

https://www.tvovermind.com/getting-know-top-5-antiques-roadshow-appraisers/
*Nicholas D. Lowry*

Nicholas D. Lowry is the president of the prestigious Swann Auction Galleries. Swann is a New York City native, and member of a family of respected dealers of antiquarian books. He was educated in New York, Germany and England. He earned a B.A. in history from Cornell University and settled in Prague. While living in Prague, he was an English teacher, journalist, author and radio presenter. He returned to New York after four years to join Swann Galleries. In addition to his duties as President, he enjoys serving as the Director and principal auctioneer of the Poster department. He avidly collects posters from the historic Czechoslovakia.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## paxonus

Fading Fast said:


> From the article "Getting to Know the Top Five Antique Roadshow Appraisers"
> 
> https://www.tvovermind.com/getting-know-top-5-antiques-roadshow-appraisers/
> *Nicholas D. Lowry*
> 
> Nicholas D. Lowry is the president of the prestigious Swann Auction Galleries. Swann is a New York City native, and member of a family of respected dealers of antiquarian books. He was educated in New York, Germany and England. He earned a B.A. in history from Cornell University and settled in Prague. While living in Prague, he was an English teacher, journalist, author and radio presenter. He returned to New York after four years to join Swann Galleries. In addition to his duties as President, he enjoys serving as the Director and principal auctioneer of the Poster department. He avidly collects posters from the historic Czechoslovakia.
> 
> View attachment 33265


That looks like it is made from flannel shirting. He has a bunch of others in different colors that look exactly the same.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Cantaloop

First picture looks neat. Is the unbottoned look a thing?


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 33288


That Fair Isle and that jacket were a match made in heaven.


----------



## FiscalDean

Not many men would have the kahoneys to wear that suit, I have to tip my hat to Mr. Lowrey.


----------



## Fading Fast

I'll start, I don't like the PS. I like the jeans, belt, shirt and tie together and kinda/sorta like the sport coat with it, but something is holding me back. I think the jeans and sport coat don't fully work together and the jeans need to be swapped out for tailored pants.


----------



## Oldsarge

Either the pants or the coat have to go. The ensemble jars.


----------



## StephenRG

Oldsarge said:


> Either the pants or the coat have to go. The ensemble jars.


Agreed. I think it's because the jeans are battered, creased and crumpled while the jacket is decidedly not.


----------



## 16412

The coat is sure brightly colored.


----------



## Oldsarge

And over a set of corduroys in either the red of the check or a different shade of blue or even a gunmetal, it would be smashing. Over tattered jeans? Bleagh!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 33297
> View attachment 33298
> 
> 
> I'll start, I don't like the PS. I like the jeans, belt, shirt and tie together and kinda/sorta like the sport coat with it, but something is holding me back. I think the jeans and sport coat don't fully work together and the jeans need to be swapped out for tailored pants.


That jacket would work so much better with a pair of medium grey gabs!


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 33322


Very nice!


----------



## Fading Fast

My two cents: sport coat too short and lose the vest


----------



## Oldsarge

_A_ vest could work, if it matched whatever trousers he had on. I just have a problem with tweed over cream flannel. You just know some loving, muddy Labrador is going to make a total mess of them. And Labradors are notoriously muddy!


----------



## eagle2250

^^Plus...
those trousers appear to have a 'painfully' short rise to them. Not a god fit or a good look!


----------



## Fading Fast

Simple, classic and makes me long for the fall.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> _A_ vest could work, if it matched whatever trousers he had on. I just have a problem with tweed over cream flannel. You just know some loving, muddy Labrador is going to make a total mess of them. And Labradors are notoriously muddy!


I once had my tailor make me a Saxony tickweave suite of cream, grey and golden tan. And then had him make flannel trousers in grey to match the grey in the suit, and a vest of the same grey flannel with woven brown leather buttons. Never liked the vest and trousers together either with, or without, the jacket, even though the trousers were very nice by themselves with the jacket. I'm not saying it can't be done, but for me, it always looked a bit institutional, reminding me of livery.


----------



## Oldsarge

A difference of opinion, I guess. I am pretty much immune to the concept of livery, possibly due to a lifetime on the Left Coast where such concepts only exist on Public Television from the UK. I like the way matching trousers and vest bring the eye up from shoe to face in a clean sweep. IMO it makes you look taller. A matching coat and vest, on the other hand, cut you in half.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> ... I am pretty much immune to the concept of livery, possibly due to a lifetime on the Left Coast where such concepts only exist on Public Television from the UK...


LOL


----------



## Troones

Fading Fast said:


> Agreed, I even like the collar bar - it adds just enough to make it not look like a catalogue shot .


Funny, I like to wear collar bars but I haven't to this point worn them with my tweeds, only suits. But that is a fantastic look. I'll start experimenting come Fall when I can break the tweeds out again.


----------



## Fading Fast

Troones said:


> Funny, I like to wear collar bars but I haven't to this point worn them with my tweeds, only suits. But that is a fantastic look. I'll start experimenting come Fall when I can break the tweeds out again.


When you do, love to see and hear how it turns out.

Sadly, I have all but no use for ties in my wardrobe anymore, but when I did, tab collars and pin or bar-thru-eyelets collars were a large part of my dress shirt wardrobe.

Kamakura shirt makes a University stripe OCBD with a tab collar that I'd love to buy to wear with tweeds, again, if I had any need for ties anymore.


----------



## Troones

Fading Fast said:


> When you do, love to see and hear how it turns out.
> 
> Sadly, I have all but no use for ties in my wardrobe anymore, but when I did, tab collars and pin or bar-thru-eyelets collars were a large part of my dress shirt wardrobe.
> 
> Kamakura shirt makes a University stripe OCBD with a tab collar that I'd love to buy to wear with tweeds, again, if I had any need for ties anymore.


I do have a tab collar as well. What are your thoughts on contrast collar with tweeds?


----------



## Fading Fast

Troones said:


> I do have a tab collar as well. What are your thoughts on contrast collar with tweeds?


In general, I didn't do that as the contrast collar, to me, feels too formal for tweed. That said, there can always be one-offs where a contrast collar "feels" less formal - if the shirt has a rougher texture maybe - and the tweed is smoother than most tweeds, etc. the two can meet, but usually, I kept the two apart.

Polo's Double RL line often did some more "causal" contrast-collar shirts - the collar might be natural not white and/or the fabric of the shirt a pretty bold pattern - and some of those could work with the right tweed. As always, facts and circumstances, but in general, I'd avoid.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> Kamakura makes a University stripe OCBD with a tab collar that I'd love to buy to wear with tweeds, again, *if I had any need for ties anymore.*


You make the need.
You think needs are handed out like Halloween candy?
Nay. You go out to buy melons, you put on a tie.
Get it?


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> You make the need.
> You think needs are handed out like Halloween candy?
> Nay. You go out to buy melons, you put on a tie.
> Get it?


I hear ya - I sincerely get it - but I literally would have to create from whole cloth the "need." But part two is that I have so many unused ties, dress shirts, suits etc., that buying more to fit some niche while the bulk of my wardrobe goes unworn is just a bit too much even for this clothes horse.

Right now, I have not worn a tie once (maybe once, but don't think so) in 2019. I work from home and have had less than five in-person meetings this year and all of them have been at all-casual or business-casual companies with a few having an explicit request out that "visitors" not come in suits.

And my not-fancy friends give me sh*t for my chinos, OCBD and sport coats - a tie would just be pushing it too far. I really like where I'm at in my life and what I'm doing, but one of the few downsides is I have almost no use for "nice" clothes anymore.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Something that can go good with a tweed jacket is a collarless shirt. For that down and out immigrant look from the early 1900s. These were semi popular again in unlikeable fabrics, patterns and colors in the 1990s, but the best ones are the ones made from actual dress shirts from which the collar's removed, the band sewn back up and heavily starched (band only) and worn fully buttoned for that longed-for American Gothic look, or a wee more attractive by not doing up the collar button.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Peak and Pine said:


> Something that can go good with a tweed jacket, if you do it right and by 'right' I of course mean the way I do it, is clean jeans and a Far and Away shirt.*


This?

If so, just a dirty band collar shirt.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

No.

And I edited the quoted post to remove references to _Far and Away _since I can't find proper pictoral reference. That or I'm confused out of my mind. Take your pick.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

^

That be good. (Phrased when in a Melville mood, like now.) Better when you aholdin' the thumb to the screen and over the square. Call me Email.


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> That be good. (Phrased when in a Melville mood, like now.) Better when you aholdin' the thumb to the screen and over the square. Call me Email.


Ditto PS


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> No.
> 
> And I edited the quoted post to remove references to _Far and Away _since I can't find proper pictoral reference. That or I'm confused out of my mind. Take your pick.


What you described was a band collar and that was the only one I could find from the film. Maybe you will have to go though the film itself and find it, then take a picture and post here. 😜 Which reminds me...


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Stuck in Sandy Eggo killing time this tweed showed up. Think first time seeing seeing a programme where a woman was wearing tweed and then add set in New York City, not a country estate. Wish had shown more of it.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## ran23

button down shirt??


----------



## eagle2250

^^
Were the picture in post #1497 of me, it would almost certainly feature an OCBD and I am not normally a fan of pinned collars, but that rig, including the shirt pictured, looks pretty darned spiffy!


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> Were the picture in post #1497 of me, it would almost certainly feature an OCBD and I am not normally a fan of pinned collars, but that rig, including the shirt pictured, looks pretty darned spiffy!


I like pin and tab collars, but only used them with suits or refined sport coats, never tweeds. That said, we've seen a few pin collars used with tweeds in this thread recently that I've liked. For me, the next "step" would be tweed and tab not tweed and pin since it would, IMO, be a less-stark mix of formal and informal. That said, as noted in a few posts above, my opportunity to wear ties has shrunk to almost zero and is at zero-minus-one for non business situations, so all of this is, sadly, theoretical anyway.


----------



## Fading Fast

Cross posted to the Trad "Illustrations" thread:








The "Cream Tweed" angle / branding seems horribly off IMO.


----------



## Fading Fast

Since yesterday's "experiment" with a different kind of post proved less than popular (thank you Adriel Rowley for your enthusiasm), we'll return today with a more-regular style post. And my regular-style lose-the-PS comment.


----------



## David J. Cooper

After a long search I was able to find a Mustard Harris tweed in 52 long. It isn’t perfect being 2 buttoned and side vented, but a man my size doesn’t have a lot of choices. I am very excited to wear it.

My question is. Should I take it with me in mid September for 3 weeks in Paris, London and Haro Spain? I am trying to limit myself to a large Filson duffle and have an Orvis travel blazer which might be a wiser choice.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> Since yesterday's "experiment" with a different kind of post proved less than popular (thank you Adriel Rowley for your enthusiasm), we'll return today with a more-regular style post. And my regular-style lose-the-PS comment.
> View attachment 33581


Nope, in that ensemble the PS is mandatory, especially that one.


----------



## Oldsarge

David J. Cooper said:


> After a long search I was able to find a Mustard Harris tweed in 52 long. It isn't perfect being 2 buttoned and side vented, but a man my size doesn't have a lot of choices. I am very excited to wear it.
> 
> My question is. Should I take it with me in mid September for 3 weeks in Paris, London and Haro Spain? I am trying to limit myself to a large Filson duffle and have an Orvis travel blazer which might be a wiser choice.


I have my doubts. That doesn't sound like a London/Paris coat but given my tendency to avoid cities whenever possible, don't take my word for it.


----------



## David J. Cooper

I think you are probably right. I thought you lived in Portland?


----------



## Adriel Rowley

David J. Cooper said:


> I think you are probably right. I thought you lived in Portland?


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oak_Grove,_Oregon


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> Nope, in that ensemble the PS is mandatory, especially that one.


I'm not there, but I respect the opposing view. Some see the aesthetic value of the PS and some don't - I just in the latter camp. But heck, some of my fashion icons - Grant, Cooper, Stewart were big fans. My more recent icons - Newman, McQueen, less so.


----------



## Oldsarge

David J. Cooper said:


> I think you are probably right. I thought you lived in Portland?


No, just near Portland. That's enough city for me.


----------



## Flanderian

Well, hello Dali!


----------



## Fading Fast

This might be a repeat (if so, my apologies). It wouldn't be my choice for an outfit, but the person did manage to pull off a lot of disparate elements.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 33616
> 
> This might be a repeat (if so, my apologies). It wouldn't be my choice for an outfit, but the person did manage to pull off a lot of disparate elements.


Very nice!


----------



## Oldsarge

I say the vest doesn't go. Just not right.


----------



## Oldsarge

With the correct fabric, it's ALWAYS tweed season. I bought 2 1/2 yards of this when he first ordered it and am quite satisfied.










https://dieworkwear.com


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Beautiful looking material.

⇩ Another "controversial" vest


----------



## eagle2250

To my eye, both the tie and the vest go well with the jacket, but just not together. Perhaps it's just too much of a good thing?


----------



## Oldsarge

I agree. The vest and the tie are too close together in hue. Either a paler plaid in the vest or a brighter regimental stripe would be more satisfying.


----------



## Flanderian

Needs more color  -


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> I say the vest doesn't go. Just not right.


I like the vest and think it harmonizes well. The affectation of leaving the top button of a vest unbuttoned, far less so. There's a point at which sprezattura that doesn't improve the composition isn't fresh, but rather simply pointless and affected. For me, leaving the top button unbuttoned is one of these, as it destroys the line, rather than enhancing it.


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> Needs more color  -
> 
> View attachment 33664


Goes perfectly with those Parkman red brogues I posted on the Amazing non-Japanese Shoes thread.


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Goes perfectly with those Parkman red brogues I posted on the Amazing non-Japanese Shoes thread.


They do! But wait for the Devil Shoe, referenced in the Amazing shoe thread!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Needs more color  -
> 
> View attachment 33664


Is that a cutaway collar tartan dress shirt? You don't find those in every store.


----------



## Fading Fast

Not sure it's tweed and I'd tuck the collar points into the sweater, but still, I think it is a nice look.


----------



## Oldsarge

I'd probably wear a button down collar but I agree.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Is that a cutaway collar tartan dress shirt? You don't find those in every store.


Nope, you've got to go to Paul Stuart!!! :happy:


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Flanderian said:


> Nope, you've got to go to Paul Stuart!!! :happy:


Or Ratio Clothes. 😉


----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> I'd probably wear a button down collar but I agree.


"Button down collars"... That's the way I rol and as Fading Fast opines, my collar tips would be buttoned and hence, tucked inside the neck of the sweater.


----------



## Fading Fast

My preferred way to wear a Tweed sport coat, crew-neck sweater and open-collared shirt - with the shirt points firmly tucked in (and, like this, done perforce owing to - my guess - it being a button-down collar):


----------



## eagle2250

^^My friend,
that's the way to do it right. Robert Redford could/should take a lesson from your example!


----------



## Fading Fast

Lose the knot in the lapel buttonhole and, then, you have a classic professorial look. I can all but see the mussed hair and busy quad.


----------



## Fading Fast

Something a little different.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Like the combo, like the watch, even like (might not choose for myself) the hacking pockets, but the sport coat looks too tight (maybe) or just not properly tailored (in some way that I'm struggling to define).


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Like the combo, like the watch, even like (might not choose for myself) the hacking pockets, but the sport coat looks too tight (maybe) or just not properly tailored (in some way that I'm struggling to define).


The only reason it looks too tight, is because it is! 

This is a young man being fashionable, and fashionable is too tight.

But taken as a whole, absent that issue, it's quite nice. At least the quarters aren't splaying, and the lapels and gorge aren't ludicrous. But, yes,, a pity the overly snug shoulders, sleeves, etc. were introduced. And, sadly, given the nature of discussion here, might have been specifically requested of an alterations tailor. 

I.e., it might be a larger size cut down.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> The only reason it looks too tight, is because it is!
> 
> This is a young man being fashionable, and fashionable is too tight.
> 
> But taken as a whole, absent that issue, it's quite nice. At least the quarters aren't splaying, and the lapels and gorge aren't ludicrous. But, yes,, a pity the overly snug shoulders, sleeves, etc. were introduced. And, sadly, given the nature of discussion here, might have been specifically requested of an alterations tailor.
> 
> I.e., it might be a larger size cut down.


"The only reason it looks too tight, is because it is! "

Good Occam's Razor response.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> "The only reason it looks too tight, is because it is! "
> 
> Good Occam's Razor response.


Here's another of the same lad, and the fit's largely the same. I like quarters that are fairly closed, but something is being done to these jackets that causes them to appear to overlap. Suggests to me it's a stock RTW jacket that's been worked over rather heavily to comport with the wearer's preferences.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 33800
> 
> Something a little different.


Love that jacket...nice change from the leather versions of that design.


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 33812





Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Like the combo, like the watch, even like (might not choose for myself) the hacking pockets, but the sport coat looks too tight (maybe) or just not properly tailored (in some way that I'm struggling to define).


The slim fit can be a nice touch, but the three pound in a two pound sack design is not a good look to my eye!


----------



## Oldsarge

Kiddie wear. Mom's trying to get another year's wear out of something Junior has obviously outgrown.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Love that jacket...nice change from the leather versions of that design.


Agreed - I'd consider one in Tweed.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

I'll see your herringbone and raise you a tartan.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Oooooo. Where do I send the money?


----------



## eagle2250

^^
Ideally the jacket pictured in Fading Fast's post #1543, sports sueded leather patches on the elbows. The shawl collar is an unusual, but desirable design twist.


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> Oooooo. Where do I send the money?





eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> Ideally the jacket pictured in Fading Fast's post #1543, sports sueded leather patches on the elbows. The shawl collar is an unusual, but desirable design twist.


I was sold when I saw the button loop. Just kidding as I love it all - the herringbone pattern, the heft, the style, the patch pockets - just love it.


----------



## David J. Cooper

I just bought the Polo version of that very vest. Great look I think.


----------



## Peak and Pine

David J. Cooper said:


> I just bought the Polo version of that very vest. Great look I think.


What are you talking about?


----------



## David J. Cooper

Vest on top of page. Post 1,541.


----------



## Fading Fast

David J. Cooper said:


> Vest on top of page. Post 1,541.


Congrats - I love it.

Is it a current Polo store/website offering or did you get it via Ebay/thrifting/etc?


----------



## David J. Cooper

At an outlet. I suspect it is real Polo because of the old school neck tag and the heavy wool used.


----------



## Peak and Pine

David J. Cooper said:


> Vest on top of page. Post 1,541.


Oh. You mean the vee neck sweater. Yes, nice.


----------



## David J. Cooper

Peak and Pine said:


> Oh. You mean the vee neck sweater. Yes, nice.


Ok. I assume you have seen the sleeves. Sweater then.


----------



## Peak and Pine

David J. Cooper said:


> Ok. I assume you have seen the sleeves. Sweater then.


No I haven't. But I've seen the lack of buttons on the front, without which signifies it probably ain't a vest.


----------



## Fading Fast

Button the darn button down and I'm good to go.


----------



## Oldsarge

Love the tie.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> Love the tie.


Agreed - it's really, really well done.


----------



## eagle2250

That is indeed a great tie and frankly that jacket looks pretty darned wonderful, to my eye!


----------



## David J. Cooper

It looks great, but wouldn’t you wear a cardigan or sport coat under it if wearing a tie?


----------



## Fading Fast

Tie and jacket could use some time being pressed or steamed, but otherwise, quite nice.


----------



## eagle2250

It is indeed, quite a handsome jacket. Do you happen to know if it is double vented to the rear? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian

Luca says, "Ciao!"


----------



## Oldsarge

I says, 'G'night'.


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Luca says, "Ciao!"
> 
> View attachment 33961


Were the decision mine to make, I would wear that strikingly handsome jacket with a pair of charcoal hued wool gabs. As a full suit, that just seems a bit too much herringbone weave. Sorry.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> It is indeed, quite a handsome jacket. Do you happen to know if it is double vented to the rear? :icon_scratch:


I'm sorry, I do not - all I have is the pic.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Luca says, "Ciao!"
> 
> View attachment 33961


While cut to today's fit, the bold herringbone and thick material has a very '30s/'40s feel to it.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Nice.

Still, the only thing I find more affected than wearing a sweater around the neck with the sleeves knotted over the chest, is wearing your pants thrown over the shoulder.


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ "Today's" outfit feels very 1930s Apparel Arts to me - there's a lot of pattern, color, boldness going on, but it all works as whomever put it together has professional-level sartorial skills. 

You look back at those '30s outfits (like in Flanderian's Esquire thread) and you have to be awed by how much was going on in them, especially compared to the average outfit of today (or twenty years ago, as today it's all sweats and jeans, etc.) when most suit are grey or blue and solid or with muted patterns.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> While cut to today's fit, the bold herringbone and thick material has a very '30s/'40s feel to it.


Rubinacci: good stuff, big $$$!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 33958


I missed this one earlier. It's fair to say that, back in my suit-wearing days, I, without a doubt, wore very similar outfits (sans the PS).


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ "Today's" outfit feels very 1930s Apparel Arts to me - there's a lot of pattern, color, boldness going on, but it all works as whomever put it together has professional-level sartorial skills.
> 
> You look back at those '30s outfits (like in Flanderian's Esquire thread) and you have to be awed by how much was going on in them, especially compared to the average outfit of today (or twenty years ago, as today it's all sweats and jeans, etc.) when most suit are grey or blue and solid or with muted patterns.


Did someone say, Beetlejuice!?


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

Tweed in its native habitat.


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ I have climbed those exact stairs many times as that is the main staircase in Polo's flagship NYC store.


----------



## Mr. B. Scott Robinson

It was 69 degrees in Atlanta at 8am yesterday. I am feeling the itch for tweed after 2 weeks in the 90s!

Cheers, 

BSR


----------



## eagle2250

^^
Based on my experience, this deep in the South, "itch" is the operative word! LOL. December thru February is about all the wear time for Tweed down here.


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Dropped to the low 60s yesterday and today (in the early morning). I had my first lightweight sweater on since the spring. Not tweed, but as the saying goes, it's in the air.

Also, first time I can remember wearing any kind of sweater in NYC pre Labor Day.


----------



## Fading Fast

Keeping with our "fall is coming" theme:


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

You must now sit in the corner for fifteen minutes.


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ I do not advocate for every outfit I post (I tend to note the ones I like) - my efforts are intended to spark conversation and engagement.


----------



## Oldsarge

I kind of like it, myself. A bit over the top but just the ticket for enjoying a few pints with the chaps.


----------



## Oldsarge

But then, I like this, too.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ I do not advocate for every outfit I post (I tend to note the ones I like) - my efforts are intended to spark conversation and engagement.


...and they have. So you may now leave the corner, get a little nosh and come up with something less Barnum & Bailey.


----------



## Oldsarge

Intimations of autumn


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Not bad. Doesn't it hurt your neck to do that?


----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> But then, I like this, too.
> 
> View attachment 34061


Oh my! My Ancestry.com report tells me I'm half Scotch/Irish. Perhaps it's time for me to assemble a collection of Kilts...yes, no? Now where did I put that USAF Tartan kilt? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast

According to nothing more than a quip I saw online, apparently Tweed will be big for the women this fall. Some offerings:


----------



## Fading Fast

And one for the men:


----------



## StephenRG

eagle2250 said:


> Oh my! My Ancestry.com report tells me I'm half Scotch/Irish. Perhaps it's time for me to assemble a collection of Kilts...yes, no? Now where did I put that USAF Tartan kilt? :icon_scratch:


On that basis, as 23andMe had me as 100% Ashkenazi, perhaps I should start wearing shtreimels.


----------



## Oldsarge

The braces might be the best part . . .


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 34089
> 
> 
> The braces might be the best part . . .


I think they make the outfit! Marvelous example of an accent piece lifting the entire ensemble to a higher level. 👍


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 34092


Autumn is icumen in, migrate doth cucu . . .


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 34089
> 
> 
> The braces might be the best part . . .


As you noted - cool braces.

What's going on with the sport coat's pattern as it appears that the vertical lines of the pattern bow into each other?


----------



## Oldsarge

I think that may be the underside of the sleeve?


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> As you noted - cool braces.
> 
> What's going on with the sport coat's pattern as it appears that the vertical lines of the pattern bow into each other?


Waist suppression. Maybe a bit more than is ideal for a Russell Plaid.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> What's going on with the sport coat's pattern as it appears that the vertical lines of the pattern bow into each other?


It's a dart.

If installed by the manuacturer, darts will almost always originate behind the hip pocket and grasp upward. Check this by looking at a non-sack jacket of your own.

If added later, or in making stronger, they have to begin _above_ the pocket, as here. They grasp tightest just below the breast, as here, following the anatomy, then gradually release upward, again as here.


----------



## Peak and Pine

I too like the ensemble. However...


Oldsarge said:


> The braces might be the best part . . .





Fading Fast said:


> As you noted - cool bracces.





Flanderian said:


> Marvelous example of an accent piece lifting the entire ensemble to a higher level. 👍


You must be referring to this strictly as a photograph, for while the braces are swell, when worn properly they're unlikely to be seen beyond the random glimpse, so it doesn't seem possible they either add or detract much from the paramount points of what's being worn, unlike, say a pocket square, which is always on display.

edit: _glimpse_ for _glance._


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> And one for the men:
> View attachment 34073


That, my friend, is as good as it gets! Now is that red layer a 1/4 placket sweater or is it a winter weight knit pol;o? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> I think that may be the underside of the sleeve?





Flanderian said:


> Waist suppression. Maybe a bit more than is ideal for a Russell Plaid.





Peak and Pine said:


> It's a dart.
> 
> If installed by the manuacturer, darts will almost always originate behind the hip pocket and grasp upward. Check this by looking at a non-sack jacket of your own.
> 
> If added later, or in making stronger, they have to begin _above_ the pocket, as here. They grasp tightest just below the breast, as here, following the anatomy, then gradually release upward, again as here.


Thank you gentlemen.


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> I too like the ensemble. However...
> 
> You must be referring to this strictly as a photograph, for while the braces are swell, when worn properly they're unlikely to be seen beyond the random glance, so it doesn't seem possible they either add or detract much from the paramount points of what's being worn, unlike a pocket square, which is always on display.


⇧ That's a fair point. I think about them this way - if he keeps the jacket open, others will catch a flash of them from time to time as the wearer moves. Also, he might remove the jacket for a period of time during the day. And, lastly, he knows he's wearing them. All of those, for me, are part of the subtle fun / oomph that the braces give the outfit. It's like a paisley lining to a sport coat - it's just there at the margin, but it still adds something good.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> That, my friend, is as good as it gets! Now is that red layer a 1/4 placket sweater or is it a winter weight knit pol;o? :icon_scratch:


It looks more sweater like to me, but I understand your question and, agree, this one looks close to the line.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ That's a fair point. I think about them this way - if he keeps the jacket open, others will catch a flash of them from time to time as the wearer moves. Also, he might remove the jacket for a period of time during the day. And, lastly, he knows he's wearing them. All of those, for me, are part of the subtle fun / oomph that the braces give the outfit. It's like a paisley lining to a sport coat - it's just there at the margin, but it still adds something good.


I wear suspenders. Have quite a few, necessary because, answer me this, who hates trying to shove six far-apart little buttons into unyielding leather slits more than me? So each pair o'pants has a dedicated pair _left on_ and, no, they don't dangle all over the place when hung because here at the Pinery we come up with clever ways to do stuff.

I do not like to flash them however. Yet if an unsuspecting follower (not sure where you get those, at pleasefollwmearound.com maybe) should catch a glimpse and be over awed by the sweetness of them, and the guy sharp enough to have chosen them, then I am not perturbed, though maybe just turbed. I wear them mainly to hold up my pants, wear them very tightly to aid in posture and wear them properly sized with the metal ajusters removed, which if allowed to stay shout One Size Fits All and seem to be on a par with clip-ons.



eagle2250 said:


> ...is that red layer a 1/4 placket sweater or is it a winter weight knit pol;o? :icon_scratch:


I believe it's a wool pop over with a button down collar. What's a 1/4 placket sweater?


----------



## Clermont

It has been a chilly August here in Cuenca at an altitude of 8,200 feet and cold winds from the south. Temperatures have rarely risen above 60°F unless it is a relentlessly sunny day. This is the one month of the year that I can comfortably wear tweed.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Clermont said:


> It has been a chilly August here in Cuenca at an altitude of 8,200 feet and cold winds from the south. Temperatures have rarely risen above 60°F unless it is a relentlessly sunny day. This is the one month of the year that I can comfortably wear tweed.


Your first post. Welcome. You obviously know how to post pics, so how about a bigger one. Rather, a more expansive one. (Where are you, at 8,000 feet?)


----------



## Clermont

Peak and Pine said:


> Your first post. Welcome. You obviously know how to post pics, so how about a bigger one. Rather, a more expansive one. (Where are you, at 8,000 feet?)


I'm in the Ecuadorian Andes less than 3° south of the Equator enjoying retirement.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Clermont said:


> I'm in the Ecuadorian Andes less than 3° south of the Equator enjoying retirement.


Wow. If I could rent a pack mule I'd join you for a drink. Alas, I'm stuck up here with just the growling of angry lobsters to keep me company. Consider more pics. 'Noches.


----------



## Fading Fast

One more from the distaff world.









And our usual fair:








The almost madras-like colors of his shirt don't work for me, but otherwise (sans PS), I think it's well done.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> One more from the distaff world.
> View attachment 34148
> 
> 
> And our usual fair:
> View attachment 34149
> 
> The almost madras-like colors of his shirt don't work for me, but otherwise (sans PS), I think it's well done.


Yes, her choice of colors is better than his. I think a simple blue OCBD would work best. I may have to look into a jacket like that. There is just something about brown glen plaid that murmurs 'Autumn' most seductively.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> Yes, her choice of colors is better than his. I think a simple blue OCBD would work best. I may have to look into a jacket like that. There is just something about brown glen plaid that murmurs 'Autumn' most seductively.


poetically said.


----------



## Fading Fast

Another one and one:


----------



## eagle2250

^^
....and each of those one and ones show the respective tweed in their finest hour, :icon_scratch: , ...or some such thing.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> ....and each of those one and ones show the respective tweed in their finest hour, :icon_scratch: , ...or some such thing.


I can't say the mustardy shirt in pic 2 works for me, but I'm thinking Flanderian will be coming in with a big thumbs up.


----------



## eagle2250

^^
Jeez Louise, I thought that was a tan shirt. I better have my color vision checked!


----------



## Oldsarge

Looks tan to me.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> Jeez Louise, I thought that was a tan shirt. I better have my color vision checked!





Oldsarge said:


> Looks tan to me.


I'm hoping it's my screen and not my eyes .


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast

Not sure it's tweed, but trying to bring a bit of Labor Day Holiday fun:








Like the tie.


----------



## Flanderian

L.B.M. 1911 -










Edit: N.Y.T. article on L.B.M. 1911 -

https://www.nytimes.com/2019/01/08/fashion/the-little-sports-jacket-that-could.html


----------



## CLTesquire

Kind of thinking about this (just the jacket) for the fall. Ring Jacket for the Armoury in a wool/silk donegal.


----------



## Oldsarge

And one from the heartland of tweed. And I love the socks!








I lov


----------



## CLTesquire

@Flanderian LBM makes some nice jackets. I've never quite understood the key characteristics of a deconstructed jacket. Is it just minimal lining and no canvassing? A store in Charlotte sells LBM. I need to check them out.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Double breasted tweed is just . . . odd.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> Double breasted tweed is just . . . odd.


I like the colour though. Not sure yet if can wear windowpane, however, with the colour and if single breasted, give it a try.

How about a double breasted tweed overcoat?


----------



## fiftyforfifty

CLTesquire said:


> Kind of thinking about this (just the jacket) for the fall. Ring Jacket for the Armoury in a wool/silk donegal.
> 
> View attachment 34247


Jacket is awesome, herringbone always attract me.


----------



## Fading Fast

Probably not tweed, but I was trying for something with a Holiday feel:








To me, the PS looks like the mouth of some odd fish.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian

Obviously, these ties are *not* tweed! Rather they're lovely silk and wool ties with woven game birds that will pair perfectly with many tweeds, matching mood, mode and motif. If I didn't already have more ties than I will ever require, I would be sorely tempted by these O'Connell's additions.


----------



## Flanderian

Forgive my reposting this recently posted jacket (So detested by oldsarge!  ) but I did not think to do so initially and wished it to be seen in the presence of these two ties to better present their effect with tweed. I'd love either.


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 34278
> 
> 
> I was just about to post this! 😆


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Obviously, these ties are *not* tweed! Rather they're lovely silk and wool ties with woven game birds that will pair perfectly with many tweeds, matching mood, mode and motif. If I didn't already have more ties than I will ever require, I would be sorely tempted by the O'Connell's additions.
> 
> View attachment 34279
> 
> 
> View attachment 34280


My feelings, exactly. Of course, if they came up on sale, I might change my mind.


----------



## Flanderian

Companions to a photo posted previously.

_Thou Shalt Fear No Color -










_


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ I can't wear all that color - my friends / coworkers / etc. would die of shock for one, but man does that outfit look good on him. I do want to put a cuff on his pants, but even that shot looks great.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ I can't wear all that color - my friends / coworkers / etc. would die of shock for one, but man does that outfit look good on him. I do want to put a cuff on his pants, but even that shot looks great.


The gentleman is from Melbourne, hence, the tweeds. I don't know his calling, but judging from his walls, it is likely something in the arts; and it pays well! 



Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 34312


Nice! 👍


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

I believe I own that vest - if so, it's from BB, it carried it for years.

I own several versions of the sport coat. But enough about me.

The scarf doesn't really work, not because a scarf and a sport coat never work, but this one somehow looks fussy and trying too hard. The PS doesn't work at all, IMHO.

I really like the tie, vest and sport coat together - grey tones and textures look harmonious on my, admittedly addled, laptop screen.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 34341
> 
> I believe I own that vest - if so, it's from BB, it carried it for years.
> 
> I own several versions of the sport coat. But enough about me.
> 
> The scarf doesn't really work, not because a scarf and a sport coat never work, but this one somehow looks fussy and trying too hard. The PS doesn't work at all, IMHO.
> 
> I really like the tie, vest and sport coat together - grey tones and textures look harmonious on my, admittedly addled, laptop screen.


Harmonious, perhaps, but entirely too restrained for my color sotted taste. Either the PS or the tie need to pop, at least a little more. And I fully agree with your comment on the scarf.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 34353


Might a deer stalker help? And a calabash pipe?


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Might a deer stalker help? And a calabash pipe?


This is Luigi Holmes, Sherlock's Italian cousin. And they don't do either deer stalkers, or calabashs!


----------



## Oldsarge

Nah, Luigi would wear this. Sorry but I couldn't get the computer to accept the picture.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Nah, Luigi would wear this. Sorry but I couldn't get the computer to accept the picture.


----------



## Oldsarge

Luigi, you done good. Hell, I'd wear that given a proper incentive.










The proper incentive, don'tcherknow . . .


----------



## Fading Fast

And a bonus pic:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 34369
> 
> 
> And a bonus pic:
> View attachment 34370


LOVE that tweed! 😍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 34369
> 
> 
> And a bonus pic:
> View attachment 34370


I'm especially taken with the telescope case accessory.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> I'm especially taken with the telescope case accessory.


I thought of you for this one immediately. It's from Thomas Farthing - which has some really nice looking stuff.

Has anyone bought anything from that company?


----------



## Oldsarge

The clothing is attractive. The models, unfortunately, don't do it justice. Drippy, I think is a good adjective.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> The clothing is attractive. The models, unfortunately, don't do it justice. Drippy, I think is a good adjective.


I hear ya. Have you bought anything from them? If so, what's your experience been?


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> I hear ya. Have you bought anything from them? If so, what's your experience been?


Well, looking their stuff over, I'm leary. The prices are a bit on the high side and I don't see any cloth that excites me. But I'll keep an eye on them. Things are always subject to change, after all.


----------



## Fading Fast

Love the jacket - feels very (Flanderian) Esquire '30s to me.


----------



## Fading Fast

"Slate Tweed" would make a nice, versatile sport jacket.


----------



## Oldsarge

Bracken Herringbone is a classic!


----------



## Fading Fast

I could find a use for everyone one of these:


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> I could find a use for everyone one of these:
> View attachment 34477


How about number two and four from the top for versatile overcoats?


----------



## Fading Fast

Adriel Rowley said:


> How about number two and four from the top for versatile overcoats?


yes and yes.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> yes and yes.


Appreciate the help. I been thinking if do get some inheritance, commission a MTM tweed herringbone overcoat, in part as come to grips repairing Opa's just isn't feasible. Though leaning more towards a green as his was also... In the end, might be further down the road, however, didn't expect to own a tweed suit as soon as did, nor a second so quickly.


----------



## Fading Fast

Mr. Rowley got me to thinking about tweed overcoats. This is close to my favorite (raglan sleeves a must):


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

I miss the large scale glen plaids that were so popular in the 1970s. In new offerings they’ve pretty much disappeared. The smaller and more finished fabric glen plaids just aren’t a substitute.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> Mr. Rowley got me to thinking about tweed overcoats. This is close to my favorite (raglan sleeves a must):
> View attachment 34539


Winter soon will be here, think sooner than later as noticing the ants are getting further, more active.

Love that the coat buttons all the way up, maybe even proper length. What is the point of having a low button stance and high hem, as not much more than a sport coat?

Hard to find tweed Raglan overcoats, especially MTM. Honestly forget if the one I had on the short list does.

Adriel is fine, by the way.


----------



## Fading Fast

Adriel Rowley said:


> Winter soon will be here, think sooner than later as noticing the ants are getting further, more active.
> 
> Love that the coat buttons all the way up, maybe even proper length. What is the point of having a low button stance and high hem, as not much more than a sport coat?
> 
> Hard to find tweed Raglan overcoats, especially MTM. Honestly forget if the one I had on the short list does.
> 
> Adriel is fine, by the way.


I have two heavy, tweed overcoats in black-white herringbone, but, sadly, neither is raglan.

It is very hard to find these days even, as you note, MTM.

I found a company in Ireland that had a beautiful raglan model, but it wouldn't do an MTM for me, so the search continues.

To be honest, the two coats I have are great, so it would be hard to justify a third - unless the perfect coat (as pictured in my prior post) appeared.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> I have two heavy, tweed overcoats in black-white herringbone, but, sadly, neither is raglan.
> 
> It is very hard to find these days even, as you note, MTM.
> 
> I found a company in Ireland that had a beautiful raglan model, but it wouldn't do an MTM for me, so the search continues.
> 
> To be honest, the two coats I have are great, so it would be hard to justify a third - unless the perfect coat (as pictured in my prior post) appeared.


Interesting having two similar overcoats.

And may I ask why the preference for raglan sleeves?


----------



## Fading Fast

Adriel Rowley said:


> Interesting having two similar overcoats.
> 
> And may I ask why the preference for raglan sleeves?


One coat is a shorter-in-length and more-casual Pendleton and the other is a full-length, traditional overcoat from Paul Stuart. Hence, they serve two different purposes (less so in today's world where everything goes - but they did at one time). And, thankfully, both were thrifted at very reasonable prices and were (and are) in great condition.

I like the aesthetic of a raglan sleeve as, to my eye, it's a more-perfect manifestation of the Ivy Style natural shoulder look. Also, I like the clean seamless look at the shoulder you get from a raglan vs. a set-in sleeve.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> One coat is a shorter-in-length and more-casual Pendleton and the other is a full-length, traditional overcoat from Paul Stuart. Hence, they serve two different purposes (less so in today's world where everything goes - but they did at one time). And, thankfully, both were thrifted at very reasonable prices and were (and are) in great condition.


Ah, that makes total sense. Plus, at least for me, having longer length is warmer and being 6'-2"... Congratulations on the finds, well done.



Fading Fast said:


> I like the aesthetic of a raglan sleeve as, to my eye, it's a more-perfect manifestation of the Ivy Style natural shoulder look. Also, I like the clean seamless look at the shoulder you get from a raglan vs. a set-in sleeve.


Ah, interesting. Will add that to my list, agree it is cleaner. More important, find more comfortable to wear, wish there were raglan sleeve sport coats other than bespoke. Then for overcoats more flexible on what shoulders it will go over.

Did a light search and found at one point Ben Silver had raglan sleeve tweeds, so sent an inquiry for the heck of it.
















There is also Magee 1866, though only 3/4 length with no explanation on actual length plus limited sizes.










I did finish everything but setting the collar and of course no lining on a toile raglan overcoat (was adjusting for a car coat for my Dad which was almost done when he passed and went into the trash), so now you got me thinking about tailoring my own.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

This is the picture that was in the email I received from J.Press this morning:









And if I didn't already have several near identical-to-it sport coats, I'd want this one from the collection:


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> This is the picture that was in the email I received from J.Press this morning:
> View attachment 34587
> 
> 
> And if I didn't already have several near identical-to-it sport coats, I'd want this one from the collection:
> View attachment 34588


I love the material, but would add two inches of length to the jacket.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> I love the material, but would add two inches of length to the jacket.


Agreed. The good news is that they put short ones on the models, but the sport coats (at least as of two years ago) are still cut nearly to traditional lengths. The last time I tried on my size, a 40L, it was normal length.


----------



## never behind

J Press sent out an email with their line of tweed jackets for the season. Of course it’s going to be 90 and humid today! 

I would love some opinions - I want to buy a green tweed this season. Should I go with a dark or light green? We are looking at shades of grey and brown for trousers. 

The dark green is J Press. The light green is Harris Tweed Shop. I have a J Press so I know it fits, and it’s a 3/2 roll. The other was a rec’d from the board, but no knowledge of fit. It is half the price of the J Press though.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Vecchio Vespa

I noted that the Press email included a grey broken bone (which they called a barley bone), which I’ve long wanted. Alas, I clicked it, and the iPad said “This page no longer exists.” Bummer.


----------



## 215339

https://www.instagram.com/p/B0htT8ZBVFB/


----------



## Oldsarge

Damn, the shooting coat's shooting coat. I wonder how much they want for it? :hidden:


----------



## 215339

Oldsarge said:


> Damn, the shooting coat's shooting coat. I wonder how much they want for it? :hidden:


based off a 4-5 year old post from styfo, at least $1500 USD

https://www.styleforum.net/threads/an-interview-with-b-tailor.395678/post-8212120


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Since not a lot of interest, just an ordinary snapshot on the way home. Received really bad news today, too in a funk to decide what to wear, so pick Dad's Summer tweed and a fun shirt that happens to be his.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Adriel Rowley

Somewhat randomly found swatches. Tweeds loomed in Scotland.


----------



## never behind

never behind said:


> J Press sent out an email with their line of tweed jackets for the season. Of course it's going to be 90 and humid today!
> 
> I would love some opinions - I want to buy a green tweed this season. Should I go with a dark or light green? We are looking at shades of grey and brown for trousers.
> 
> The dark green is J Press. The light green is Harris Tweed Shop. I have a J Press so I know it fits, and it's a 3/2 roll. The other was a rec'd from the board, but no knowledge of fit. It is half the price of the J Press though.


Shameless bump. I lean the lighter green but would like to hear some better educated opinions.


----------



## Fading Fast

And a bonus pic - it would be fun just to walk around inside here:


----------



## Peak and Pine

never behind said:


> ... would like to hear some better educated opinions.


Then you may want to skip this for it's not going to be _better educated._ But I can offer what caught me at first glance, and explain that 'first glance' is, to me, 75% of anything visual. Your jackets, the new used cars I'm looking at.

So, the Press looks better by a country mile. You like 3-roll-2, I think they look stupid, but I like the Press 3/2 because it buttons high from the middle, higher than I recall ever seeing a 3/2, and I'm partial to a true 3 where you actually button #3. The color, warm and hard, not the oxy it sounds. Very nice as is the weave, and the shoulders are remarkable by much of today's puffed ups.

However, the Harris, which you say is at a savings, shouldn't be dismissed flat. Those shoulders can be readily reshaped by yanking out the the pads. Any tailor, or DIY (but I know you won't.). With little difficulty the Harris can be made 3/2. There's no changing anything re fit or lapel shape, just get a new set of leather twists, have the third one added c. 4" (standard) above the current top one, then faux stitch a corresponding hole (faux, easier, quicker and you're not going to be using it.) The Harris has going for it that it's a Harris, the green strikes a little sickly, but it has pattern which usually helps with the burlap look of tweed.

And now you know why
the opinion here is not to be classified as better educated_, c_huckle yuckle.



Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 34658
> 
> 
> And a bonus pic - it would be fun just to walk around inside here:
> View attachment 34659


The like you just got is for the cloth. The store window is missing the Salvation Army sign.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 34658


Got a chuckle as think this image is the same site I was looking on that led to the samples. These shown are Lovat Mill's "The Kirkton". "This bunch presents designs in our single cheviot cloth typified by rich colour mixtures and bold designs. Kirkton Tweed is a 16 ounce/500gram per metre, crisp handling, robust jacketing cloth versatile in its end uses."

The website doesn't allow sharing f photographs, Macintosh still down, though thankfully have an iPhone. Here is the earth tone version of the black and white hounds tooth:









If anyone else knows a quicker way around, please do share.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Harris Tweed.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

This PS is a bit much, even for me.


----------



## 215339




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 34719


Magnificent!


----------



## Peak and Pine

Top rate.
And I am very familiar with top rate regarding tweed.
So there.

The pic before this one is just middle rate.
it's _the guy who leans._


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Magnificent!





Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 34741
> 
> 
> Top rate.
> And I am very familiar with top rate regarding tweed.
> So there.
> 
> The pic before this one is just middle rate.
> it's _the guy who leans._


No doubt you guys have a deeper understanding of this; but IMHO, this one stood out as special.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> No doubt you guys have a deeper understanding of this; but IMHO, this one stood out as special.


And I agree, total.
Did you misread me, again?

Edit. Didn't notice you included Jersey in your quote, so I guess you understand we both think your selection was tops. (Not quite magnificent tho, not sure what's in that category)


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> And I agree, total.
> Did you misread me, again?
> 
> Edit. Didn't notice you included Jersey in your quote, so I guess you understand we both think your selection was tops. (Not quite magnificent tho, not sure what's in that category)


We're on the same page - my "you guys have a deeper understanding" was just noting that you have much more extensive knowledge about this stuff, but we all seem to love that suit.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

Don't think it is, but might be a repeat:


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Fading Fast said:


> Don't think it is, but might be a repeat:
> View attachment 34764


Are these current offerings?


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

never behind said:


> J Press sent out an email with their line of tweed jackets for the season. Of course it's going to be 90 and humid today!
> 
> I would love some opinions - I want to buy a green tweed this season. Should I go with a dark or light green? We are looking at shades of grey and brown for trousers.
> 
> The dark green is J Press. The light green is Harris Tweed Shop. I have a J Press so I know it fits, and it's a 3/2 roll. The other was a rec'd from the board, but no knowledge of fit. It is half the price of the J Press though.


They are both good looking jackets, but I find the lighter one more interesting. However, based on its provenance it is probably double vented.


----------



## Fading Fast

TKI67 said:


> Are these current offerings?


I don't think so, but there was no caption or other information with the pic - sorry.


----------



## Fading Fast

TKI67 said:


> Are these current offerings?


Just a thought, if you are actively looking for a tweed suit/sport coat, you might want to reach out to J.Press.

Just this past week, I received an email and brochure from Press that highlighted Harris Tweed. For some odd reason, its website doesn't seem to have caught up to the email and brochure, but I'm guessing it will shortly.

Also, you could call the store and ask about it as the pics in the brochure of the tweeds are pretty nice. And Press does have a MTM effort.

All that said - and I just flipped through the brochure to be sure - it's not clear what is available as there are some pics of tweed jackets with no text.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Fading Fast said:


> Just a thought, if you are actively looking for a tweed suit/sport coat, you might want to reach out to J.Press.
> 
> Just this past week, I received an email and brochure from Press that highlighted Harris Tweed. For some odd reason, its website doesn't seem to have caught up to the email and brochure, but I'm guessing it will shortly.
> 
> Also, you could call the store and ask about it as the pics in the brochure of the tweeds are pretty nice. And Press does have a MTM effort.
> 
> All that said - and I just flipped through the brochure to be sure - it's not clear what is available as there are some pics of tweed jackets with no text.


I wouldn't go so far as to say I was actively looking, but if I were to come across just the right predominantly grey but actually multi-hued large glen plaid, it might move from TweedCON three to TweedCON one.


----------



## Fading Fast

TKI67 said:


> I wouldn't go so far as to say I was actively looking, but if I were to come across just the right predominantly grey but actually multi-hued large glen plaid, it might move from TweedCON three to TweedCON one.


I understand as I've experienced the rapid change from cautiously watching the perimeter to immediately needing to call up the troops.

When the right item appears, the budget has to be found.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## never behind

From J Press Fall & Winter Brochure.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ I like that you can see the swelled edge and a patch pocket peeking out on that one jacket.


----------



## Fading Fast

A couple to start the week:















Love the tab-collar shirt in the bottom pic.


----------



## CLTesquire

Casual tweed from the Armoury (made by Ring Jacket):


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Way short and the gi'normous tie obscures the shirt. The shoulder's a bit too natural on this partiular dood and he exhibits no presence with his stance. However, it's a nicely fitted jacket with slim sleeves and gusseted pockes. Pass.


----------



## mlenecare

I think I appreciate the fact that the lapel notch isn't all the way to the top of his shoulder. This trend has really been getting out of control.


----------



## CLTesquire

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> Way short and the gi'normous tie obscures the shirt. The shoulder's a bit too natural on this partiular dood and he exhibits no presence with his stance. However, it's a nicely fitted jacket with slim sleeves and gusseted pockes. Pass.


Well the picture is from the Armoury's webstore. It's not like this guy is posting this on Instagram as his "fit" of the day.


----------



## Peak and Pine

CLTesquire said:


> Well the picture is from the Armoury's webstore. It's not like this guy is posting this on Instagram as his "fit" of the day.


Understood. Which makes it a wee more sinful. The guy is standing like I did when I went for my draft physical: straight and scared. Over in the Esquire thread, full of watercolor ads of guys in suits in natural, everyday poses. This can be done with photography. L. L. Bean seems to accomplish it. Flip back a few posts in this very thread to the last time you see a full shot of a guy (a shameful rarity in this thread) and notice his stance. Okay, so the guy is me, four shots taken, one chosen, the one where I thought I most looked like a breathable human being if you were standing on my porch talking to me, which is where I was, talking to a $25 Sanyo.
........

The above is not a knock at you. You're one of the better picture posters here. You have deep pockets and good stuff. I look forward to you.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 34792





Fading Fast said:


> A couple to start the week:
> View attachment 34853
> View attachment 34854
> 
> Love the tab-collar shirt in the bottom pic.


Magnificent, top to bottom!

:beer:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Utterly distinguished.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 34884


That is a beautiful material - if I still needed suits, I'd be on the hunt for that material.


----------



## eagle2250

^^
Very handsome material indeed, but what, pray tell, is the gentleman holding onto with his right hand? Looks almost like the 'ass' end of a pellet gun. :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> Very handsome material indeed, but what, pray tell, is the gentleman holding onto with his right hand? Looks almost like the 'ass' end of a pellet gun. :icon_scratch:


Maybe, just the chair's arm?


----------



## Fading Fast

I had a very similar jacket decades ago - mine was more olive than brown though. Like with my grey herringbones, it went with almost everything.

Barlycorn is a wonderful pattern - shame it seems to be fading away.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

The proportions are remarkably good. Narrow sleeves, higher buttoning spot. Narrow lapel corresponding to the natural shulder.

The super wide lapel rocketing down to a low top button is not a look I enjoy, on me or anyone, tweed or other wise. I'm skipping over and withholding likes from any shots that show just a tenth of the outfit. I can make my cat look good in tweed doing that.

The above shot is a good one. You get to see the whole. Not just the part the wearer thinks looks best. Swell jacket.


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> The proportions are remarkably good. Narrow sleeves, higher buttoning spot. And narrow lapel corresponding to a natural shulder.
> 
> The super wide lapel rocketing down to a low top button is not a look I enjoy, on me or anyone, tweed or other wise. I'm skipping over and withholding likes from any shots that show just a tenth of the outfit. I can make my cat look good in tweed doing that.
> 
> The above shot is a good one. You get to see the whole. Not just the part the wearer thinks looks best. Swell jacket.


It comes from this company:

https://www.studiosuits.com
If it was less brown and more olive, I might consider getting one as I'm feeling nostalgic for my old olive barleycorn one.

As to the pics themselves, the majority I come across are the ones you don't like - tight in, not the whole.

I agree with your point that proportion is very important, but I'm also a lemons-lemonade guy; to wit, even on the narrow shots, I can appreciate the material, colors, combos and textures.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> It comes from this company.


Yes, it's stamped on the neck of the form.


> ... even on the narrow shots, I can appreciate the material, colors, combos and textures.


Alas, I do not have that ability.

You're efforts here, greatly appreciated.


----------



## Flanderian

https://tweedlandthegentlemansclub.blogspot.com/2019/09/barbour-tweed.html


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 34937


Want the sweater!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> Want the sweater!


Too bold for me, as they're not shoes


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Too bold for me, as they're not shoes


:laughing: :laughing: :laughing:


----------



## David J. Cooper

He is wearing short pants and has a fishing pole in hand. Is there a pub where this would happen?


----------



## Flanderian

David J. Cooper said:


> He is wearing short pants and has a fishing pole in hand. Is there a pub where this would happen?


I was having dinner on the porch which overhangs the Winooski at Sarducci's in Montpelier when a beaver swam by on his way downstream. Perhaps next time I'll bring a fly rod to entertain myself between courses!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Want the sweater!


After the beer, it's my favorite thing in the pic too.


----------



## eagle2250

^^
Indeed, it is a rather wonderful Faire Isle design.


----------



## Fading Fast

It's not everyday that, if custom made, the gentleman could have ordered a blanket to be made from the same material as his sport coat.


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> I was having dinner on the porch which overhangs the Winooski at Sarducci's in Montpelier when a beaver swam by on his way downstream. Perhaps next time I'll bring a fly rod to entertain myself between courses!


Or, you could just purchase a copy of Eager, which is the natural history of the beaver both in N America and Europe. It's an award winning book and one heck ova read


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

^^ Elegant monochrome, that.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> ^^ Elegant monochrome, that.


As a guy who leans monotone (far from always, but it's a bias), I agree, but I have a feeling our friend Flanderian is far less impressed.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> As a guy who leans monotone (far from always, but it's a bias), I agree, but I have a feeling our friend Flanderian is far less impressed.


I am more with Flanderian. I live in color. My son, on the other hand, is with you.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> As a guy who leans monotone (far from always, but it's a bias), I agree, but I have a feeling our friend Flanderian is far less impressed.


Nope, Flanderian is impressed! 

But you're right, I'm all about color. Though a lot of that has to do with my own coloring and mien. On the occasionally silly seasons color thing, I'm a winter, and now in my dotage, an occasionally grim one. While I'm sure I could contrive a monotone color scheme which would flatter, one with color lends itself more easily, and, yes, I simply enjoy it also.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Flanderian said:


> Nope, Flanderian is impressed!
> 
> But you're right, I'm all about color. Though a lot of that has to do with my own coloring and mien. On the occasionally silly seasons color thing, I'm a winter, and now in my dotage, an occasionally grim one. While I'm sure I could contrive a monotone color scheme which would flatter, one with color lends itself more easily, and, yes, I simply enjoy it also.


Summers and Winters are most common, so easy to find colours which work with your Winter complexion (such as true Navy). Better, you can wear bright and clear colours, where the Autumns and Summers look better with muted (especially in my opinion Autumns) IIRC. So then since you love colour and look great in colour, why not?

For me, when came here was criticized because so colourful, switched to no color which then led to critique. Realizing no rules in sartorial dressing as openions are individual, do as I enjoy. Now will decide on occasion and mood, though mostly back to colour. When my hair turns white, then can add reds and oranges.


----------



## Fading Fast

Todd Snyder + Golden Bear

EXCLUSIVE GOLDEN BEAR + TODD SNYDER HARRIS TWEED JACKET


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 35079
> 
> Todd Snyder + Golden Bear
> 
> EXCLUSIVE GOLDEN BEAR + TODD SNYDER HARRIS TWEED JACKET


I love that jacket design, but not at just $2 short of a thousand bucks. Truth be known, it's just a windbreaker! :crazy:


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ My guess, a lot of thought, study - or, as they say today, data analysis - went into arriving at $998 not $999.

Either way, as you note, $1000 is a lot for a heavy windbreaker. 

I also think the stripes on the bands look off against the houndstooth.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 35079
> 
> Todd Snyder + Golden Bear
> 
> EXCLUSIVE GOLDEN BEAR + TODD SNYDER HARRIS TWEED JACKET


Wow! Great jacket! The only thing I'd want is to lose the stripes, and 3/4 price reduction.


----------



## Oldsarge

Higgins and Cole


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Posted simply for the thickness of the material. It needs to be really cold, but on the right day, a heavy tweed sport coat is heaven.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Posted simply for the thickness of the material. It needs to be really cold, but on the right day, a heavy tweed sport coat is heaven.
> View attachment 35112
> 
> View attachment 35111


Gorgeous cloth!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Maybe separately.
If it's cold enough for scarf and gloves tho, maybe the first line of defense is to button the coat.

Coverts and Chesterfields look good in very dark, i. e. black, navy, c'coal, and b&w h'bone, occasionally camel hair, but count me out on the last. Likewise, the collar pallet is limited, navy, black, gray, dark brown. I've only seen patterns with a velvet collar on short coats on women. A man's velvet collar long coat is a serious thing. Maybe the cloth beneath should understand this. Pass


----------



## Flanderian

Tweed comes in trousers too!


----------



## Fading Fast

Another wonderfully "thick" tweed (love the throat latch):


----------



## eagle2250

^^
A very nice car coat that goes nicely with the (apparently) green tweed sport coat beneath it! Add a nice muffler and the gentleman is ready for the worst winter has to offer!


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> Maybe separately.
> If it's cold enough for scarf and gloves tho, maybe the first line of defense is to button the coat.
> 
> Coverts and Chesterfields look good in very dark, i. e. black, navy, c'coal, and b&w h'bone, occasionally camel hair, but count me out on the last. Likewise, the collar pallet is limited, navy, black, gray, dark brown. I've only seen patterns with a velvet collar on short coats on women. A man's velvet collar long coat is a serious thing. Maybe the cloth beneath should understand this. Pass


I, personally, would have put this in the "over the top" thread. Agree with Peaky.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Another wonderfully "thick" tweed (love the throat latch):
> View attachment 35131


Tweed like 'ya mean it! irate:

Wonderful!


----------



## Fading Fast

This is me :hidden: awaiting Peak and Pine's comments on the pic's layout.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 35155
> 
> 
> This is me :hidden: awaiting Peak and Pine's comments on the pic's layout.


Admittedly this is just one hillbilly's opinion, but to my eyes that is one magnificent rig, except possibly for that thing that looks like a leather cord contraption designed to be worn as a necklace. The only necklace real men wear are bearing dog tags! LOL.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Admittedly this is just one hillbilly's opinion, but to my eyes that is one magnificent rig, except possibly for that thing that looks like a leather cord contraption designed to be worn as a necklace. The only necklace real men wear are bearing dog tags! LOL.


I liked it too and thought the shoes were an inspired choice. It's a very Fading Fast-like outfit for the fall.


----------



## mlenecare

eagle2250 said:


> Admittedly this is just one hillbilly's opinion, but to my eyes that is one magnificent rig, except possibly for that thing that looks like a leather cord contraption designed to be worn as a necklace. The only necklace real men wear are bearing dog tags! LOL.


That is definitely a great outfit. +1 on the dog tag comment.


----------



## Oldsarge

My dog tags were retired when I did. The next time I wear them will be in a box beneath a flag.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 35155
> 
> 
> This is me :hidden: awaiting Peak and Pine's comments on the pic's layout.


When Liz Warren gets in, she's promised me she'll broad band my state and the rest of rural America, much as Roosevelt electrified it in the 30s. In the meantime, I must view this thread on the equivilent of an index card, my Samsung Galaxy Skypro J7. The detail that I can see is limited. And in this thread that's often a plus. You wouldn't believe how much I wanted to see less of that giant throat latch a few pics back.

But the display above seems solid. _Here are some pics of stuff as I *plan * to wear it, not *as* I'm wearing it_. The *as I'm wearing it *pics here often show about an eighth of the outfit. Unfair. I paids my money and I want to see the whole thing. Save for the square, the outfit shown is commendable.


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> When Liz Warren gets in, she's promised me she'll broad band my state and the rest of rural America, much as Roosevelt electrified it in the 30s. In the meantime, I must view this thread on the equivilent of an index card, my Samsung Galaxy Skypro J7. The detail that I can see is limited. And in this thread that's often a plus. You wouldn't believe how much I wanted to see less of that giant throat latch a few pics back.
> 
> But the display above seems solid. _Here are some pics of stuff as I *plan * to wear it, not *as* I'm wearing it_. The *as I'm wearing it *pics here often show about an eighth of the outfit. Unfair. I paids my money and I want to see the whole thing. Save for the square, the outfit shown is commendable.


I know I've been told it's safe to come out, but I still think I'm going to get enfilade.

I guess you'll be getting your broadband about the same time I'll be getting my free healthcare, student loads wiped out and free childcare.

I liked the giant throat latch.


----------



## Oldsarge

I happen to like it. I especially like the way the tie, socks and sport coat are coordinated without being matchy. And picking up the sweater vest's color in the pocket square is positively witty. Well done, whoever laid it out.


----------



## cmoore

eagle2250 said:


> The only necklace real men wear are bearing dog tags! LOL.


While not a fan of the leather necklace, this level of condemnation is a very slippery slope. What's next? Matching the socks to the tie? Then the generally overly neat and coordinated look of the outfit in general? God help the man who tries to express himself the slightest bit at that point.

I've had a response to gatekeepers using the "Real men don't..." version of the No True Scottsman fallacy going all the way back to the days of "Real men don't eat quiche."

In short, a real man does whatever the f_ he wants.

* note: you need to deliver this line completely deadpan with just a slight hint of mirth in your eye.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Peak and Pine said:


> But the display above seems solid. _Here are some pics of stuff as I *plan * to wear it, not *as* I'm wearing it_. The *as I'm wearing it *pics here often show about an eighth of the outfit. Unfair. I paids my money and I want to see the whole thing. Save for the square, the outfit shown is commendable.


Okay @Peak and Pine, this is for you, not composed, just tossed as headed into the shower this morning. Yes, wrong shirt, though I only have a few and the off white is waiting for a swim in the washing machine.










And for the others, one in the breeze and cold. Tomorrow trying to decide if go with Opa's DB suit or a tweed suit, haven't worn the DB in a long time.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

I like the outfit and I like both pics. Do I recognize the tie? Very swell. Note to you and anyone posting pics...speaking just for me of course, it's never, ever necessary to show a picture of your socks.


----------



## Fading Fast

Love the sport coat and like the outfit (feels updated Robert Redford from "Three Day of the Condor" to me), but think the pocket square fights the look, vibe and intent of it. 









Re the socks comment by P&P - as he notes, to each his own, but for me, I think they can be a cool part of an outfit and I enjoy seeing them (at least when they add something to the outfit). I like @Adriel Rowley bright yellow ones in his outfit above.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

This is good. A young, white Obama dressed to go. He may want to get that flip-phone pocket sewed up, or maybe get a flip-phone. Everything about the outfit strikes good, chambray and jeans covered in corduroy and cotton tweed. Note the single cloth covered button on the vest. I like natural shoulders if you have natural shoulders, but if you don't, like me and this guy, maybe just a wee bit of prosthetic (padding) might be in order. I admire the full shot aspect, as you knew I would.


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> This is good. A young, white Obama dressed to go. He may want to get that flip-phone pocket sewed up, or maybe get a flip-phone. Everything about the outfit strikes good, chambray and jeans covered in corduroy and cotton tweed. Note the single cloth covered button on the vest. I like natural shoulders if you have natural shoulders, but if you don't, like me and this guy, maybe just a wee bit of prosthetic (padding) might be in order. I admire the full shot aspect, as you knew I would.


It's just one man's opinion, but I think his shoulders look fine as, to me, they seem properly proportioned to his narrow hips and jawline and, from what we can see, fine-boned body type.

Nice catch on the cloth button - any idea why it's there/different from the others?

I'm with you on the jetted pocket, which is why I try to keep the original basting on those pockets (really, any outside suit or sport-coat pocket). That said, others argue pockets are for using and the wear and tear is what it is.

I guess I'm inconsistent as certain wear and tear / patina works for me; whereas, some looks sloppy.

I love the stark contrast in the black and white of the herringbone.


----------



## Peak and Pine

I was about to say, again, we all have personal standards regarding our clothing, but now I'm thinking just the opposite; hardly anybody does. Membership here excepted. One of mine is that shoulder width and loft should match the size of the head. Well, not match, what is the word, _correspond_ maybe. I think the boy above with his Obama-esque ears might need a slightly larger (loftier) shoulder. But I'm being Picky Peaky here.


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> I was about to say, again, we all have personal standards regarding our clothing, but now I'm thinking just the opposite; hardly anybody does. Membership here excepted. One of mine is that shoulder width and loft should match the size of the head. Well, not match, what is the word, _correspond_ maybe. I think the boy above with his Obama-esque ears might need a slightly larger (loftier) shoulder. But I'm being Picky Peaky here.


Instead of chopping down all the trees to prevent a small fire from spreading, just put out the fire. To wit, don't they have surgery today that could pin those satellite-dish ears back.

Any idea why that one vest button is different?


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> Instead of chopping down all the trees to prevent a small fire from spreading, just put out the fire. To wit, don't they have surgery today that could pin those satellite-dish ears back.
> 
> Any idea why that one vest button is different?


Chuckle. I dunno. Obama has publicly said the ear thing has always bothered him.
No idea about the cloth button, especially since it's the one you seldom button. I have a J. Peterman emerald green vest where all the button holes are horizontal , except one in the middle, out of line and vertical. Might have something to do with a watch fob.


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> Chuckle. I dunno. Obama has publicly said the ear thing has always bothered him.
> No idea about the cloth button, especially since it's the one you seldom button. I have a J. Peterman emerald green vest where all the button holes are horizontal , except one in the middle, out of line and vertical. Might have something to do with a watch fob.


I have a few shirts where the bottom button hole was made from a different-colored thread, but it's not something anyone other than the wearer would see.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Love the sport coat and like the outfit (feels updated Robert Redford from "Three Day of the Condor" to me), but think the pocket square fights the look, vibe and intent of it.
> View attachment 35184
> 
> 
> Re the socks comment by P&P - as he notes, to each his own, but for me, I think they can be a cool part of an outfit and I enjoy seeing them (at least when they add something to the outfit). I like @Adriel Rowley bright yellow ones in his outfit above.


Go with the blue jeans or go with the denim shirt, but good lawd, not both. That adds up to too much denim! However, the Tweed jacket is nothing short of wonderful.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Go with the blue jeans or go with the denim shirt, but good lawd, not both. That adds up to too much denim! However, the Tweed jacket is nothing short of wonderful.


Because of the blue vest breaking up the two denims, I thought it worked, but if you take the vest out, the jeans and shirt are too much next to each other. Hence, he can't take his vest off during the day.

And, yes, I really, really want that sport coat.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> I like the outfit and I like both pics. Do I recognize the tie? Very swell. Note to you and anyone posting pics...speaking just for me of course, it's never, ever necessary to show a picture of your socks.


Appreciate the compliment, was for a while not posting as was no point since distracting.

I was thinking was one of your generous gifts. Super nice tie with a self loop rather than just the tag (or Trump's cellophane tape).

I forgot to say wore this with the Carlos Santos Chelsea boots from Herring, so socks were one of those that only I know of unless someone really detail oriented and caught a peek, something playful. Vast majority of colour socks were my Dad's and most of them were brand new, lost in boxes packed after the nasty divorce, and now I get to try something new which turns out I love. Today wore bright light blue with the brown DB since has a light blue pinstripe, just because I can (which later worked with the polyester jeans in slate).



Fading Fast said:


> Re the socks comment by P&P - as he notes, to each his own, but for me, I think they can be a cool part of an outfit and I enjoy seeing them (at least when they add something to the outfit). I like @Adriel Rowley bright yellow ones in his outfit above.


Appreciate the complement. It's because of this wonderful and knowledgeable forum I am pushing myself out of my comfort and in my opinion, growing. To me, yellow was not the usual choice and only those few understand why.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Peak and Pine said:


> I was about to say, again, we all have personal standards regarding our clothing, but now I'm thinking just the opposite; hardly anybody does. Membership here excepted. One of mine is that shoulder width and loft should match the size of the head. Well, not match, what is the word, _correspond_ maybe. I think the boy above with his Obama-esque ears might need a slightly larger (loftier) shoulder. But I'm being Picky Peaky here.


 Interesting, I see what you mean. Even 1/4 inch pad help. How about higher collars including the coat to reduce the seeming length of the neck?


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Adriel Rowley

After the meeting (which ended up pointless as being denied access to behavioral health services because I have a Service Dog) took my Brother to a very lat brunch at about noon and changed into tweed. Was a fine day for outside, even though did try to rain with big drops onto our meal, though in a sprinkle fashion.










Sorry Peak, had to quickly change and get on the way, so maybe this suffice.









I really need tweed or cords for all the tweed coats I have...  😂


----------



## Fading Fast

Let's try another one of these type of layouts:








The PS has to go IMHO - it kills the otherwise consistent and clean style vibe.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Let's try another one of these type of layouts:
> View attachment 35237
> 
> The PS has to go IMHO - it kills the otherwise consistent and clean style vibe.


Handsomely classic! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Dr. Andre Churchwell redux!


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Unapologetically bold suit confidently and elegantly worn.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Unapologetically bold suit confidently and elegantly worn.


Dr. Churchwell enjoys having fun by pushing the limits! And though some might feel otherwise, I believe his ebullient joy is always counterbalanced by a superb eye.

Suit is, I believe, bespoke by Leonard Logsdail.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## ran23

I may get up early in the 50's and walk in Tweed.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 35265


⇧ Old Sarge - love the sport coat, looks like a lovely muted brown-white herringbone.

⇩ For today, something a little outré:


----------



## Oldsarge

I would call that 'kicky' and I like it! However, I would lose the vest. I really don't like the way a matching vest and jacket cut you in half. To my mind it looks so much better when the vest and trousers match and the jacket is the contrast. Either a neutral grey or :hidden: navy would be better, IMO.


----------



## cmoore

Oldsarge said:


> I would call that 'kicky' and I like it! However, I would lose the vest.


I have a worsted suit in Navy with blue windowpanes that has a red overcheck. It's like that, though way subtler with the navy background and the lighter blue panes as the red sort of disappears into the blue.

I ALWAYS wear it with the waistcoat. In fact, since I got that suit, I have pretty much become a 3 piece suit guy.

I don't know about this one, but I'd probably wear it. After being talked into trying something a little bold a few years ago I've developed a soft spot for this sort of pattern.


----------



## Adriel Rowley




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Adriel Rowley

The patterns are not centered in the tie and maybe the tip not cut to reflect the pattern.


----------



## Flanderian

From _The Tweed Album!








_


----------



## Flanderian

Adriel Rowley said:


> The patterns are not centered in the tie and maybe the tip not cut to reflect the pattern.


Yes! And that's a *good* thing! irate:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

Adriel Rowley said:


> The patterns are not centered in the tie and maybe the tip not cut to reflect the pattern.


Gave a Like for the display of ties above, and then I read your post, and then I went back and took down the Like. And hung my head for not catching what you caught. Very observant. That lack of pattern centering would drive me up this garden wall. Poor pattern matching on a jacket, same thing. Swell catch. (You stand on your mattress to get that overhead shot? Careful. )


----------



## cmoore

Just talking about the pattern, not whether it's centered, I like the blue overcheck on the middle tie. Subtle and kind of interesting. Would pop on any shirt on the purple side of blue.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Peak and Pine said:


> Gave a Like for the display of ties above, and then I read your post, and then I went back and took down the Like. And hung my head for not catching what you caught. Very observant. That lack of pattern centering would drive me up this garden wall. Poor pattern matching on a jacket, same thing. Swell catch. (You stand on your mattress to get that overhead shot? Careful. )


Interesting we have another similarity. Appreciate the complement.

As to the previous shot, I am tall and the bed low (loath high beds and especially box springs). I was brought up with a fear of germs, so impossible for me to lay my clean clothes onto the floor. Chose the shirt because of both tweeds having flecks of bright colours which should be the focus.


----------



## Fading Fast

A lot of fun post, pics and info above - this threads great.

For today:


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> A lot of fun post, pics and info above - this threads great.
> 
> For today:
> View attachment 35343


Is that a knit shirt being worn under the jacket? The collar, cuffs and waistband appear to say...yes! :icon_scratch: In any event, that is a nice rig.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Is that a knit shirt being worn under the jacket? The collar, cuffs and waistband appear to say...yes! :icon_scratch: In any event, that is a nice rig.


You landed on the same question that I did - the shirt. I expanded the pic as much as I could and am not sure. It could be a knit as you say or a straight-bottomed version of a dress shirt. I see what you're saying, but the placket looks more dress shirt to me and I'm mixed on the collar. Basically, I'm on the fence.


----------



## Flanderian

cmoore said:


> Just talking about the pattern, not whether it's centered, I like the blue overcheck on the middle tie. Subtle and kind of interesting. Would pop on any shirt on the purple side of blue.


I love wool ties, and tweed among them. I find them to be ideal complements to corduroy, twills, and if properly harmonized, even some other tweeds.

The cloth for ties is, or should be cut on the bias, meaning that the orientation of the pattern is at a 45 degree angle to perpendicular. It would be difficult, if not impossible to center most tartans and checks, but more importantly, the tie looks much better with pattern not centered. It plays more interestingly with the other patterns and textures being worn, and emphasizes the more rustic and casual aesthetic of these types of ties.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Flanderian said:


> It would be difficult, if not impossible to center most tartans and checks...


Nah. It's easy.


> ...but more importantly, the tie looks much better with pattern not centered.


Er...okay.
Whatever you say, sir.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Flanderian said:


> I love wool ties, and tweed among them. I find them to be ideal complements to corduroy, twills, and if properly harmonized, even some other tweeds.
> 
> The cloth for ties is, or should be cut on the bias, meaning that the orientation of the pattern is at a 45 degree angle to perpendicular. It would be difficult, if not impossible to center most tartans and checks, but more importantly, the tie looks much better with pattern not centered. It plays more interestingly with the other patterns and textures being worn, and emphasizes the more rustic and casual aesthetic of these types of ties.


I have purchase two wool ties, one in what is apparently called British tan with flecks of medium brown and a solid green, plus these two wonderful wool ties Peak gave me:










In these cases, the pattern is not able to be symmetric, though at least the end was cut with consideration to the pattern. To me, the extra thought and care put in looks higher quality.

In the end, it is wonderful to see that on something seeming simple there is varied opinion, giving variety and interest to the forum. I mean, it be terribly dull if we all agreed, right?


----------



## 215339

From the Spier thread over at TOF, oh lord


----------



## Flanderian

Adriel Rowley said:


> I have purchase two wool ties, one in what is apparently called British tan with flecks of medium brown and a solid green, plus these two wonderful wool ties Peak gave me:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In these cases, the pattern is not able to be symmetric, though at least the end was cut with consideration to the pattern. To me, the extra thought and care put in looks higher quality.
> 
> In the end, it is wonderful to see that on something seeming simple there is varied opinion, giving variety and interest to the forum. I mean, it be terribly dull if we all agreed, right?


Nice ties! 👍



delicious_scent said:


> From the Spier thread over at TOF, oh lord


Rather well cut for a contemporary suit!

Now buy that boy some socks! :icon_study:


----------



## Flanderian

Simple. Classic. Classy!


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

@Flanderian has dug up another swell shot, scratching an itch (mine) for simplicity.

Couple of observations. Are lots here stuck on the bell collar thing? Fine if so, but strikes as studied, like tie dimples. Cannot tell from pic if pockets are patch, but visible seaming suggests it. And the vertical seam suggests a gusset, as dart seams running similar usually end before the pocket.

Many think a blue blazer is the essential jacket when starting out, when finances or space dictate a single jacket. I would buy that if you're in a more temperate climate than mine. But I think something like the jacket pictured above is the more essential, if you ever pass under a sign that says Welcome to New England.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> @Flanderian has dug up another swell shot, scratching an itch (mine) for simplicity.
> 
> Couple of observations. Are lots here stuck on the bell collar thing? Fine if so, but strikes as studied, like tie dimples. Cannot tell from pic if pockets are patch, but visible seaming suggests it. And the vertical seam suggests a gusset, as dart seams running similar usually end before the pocket.
> 
> Many think a blue blazer is the essential jacket when starting out, when finances or space dictate a single jacket. I would buy that if you're in a more temperate climate than mine. But I think something like the jacket pictured above is the more essential, if you ever pass under a sign that says Welcome to New England.


Or just purchase a navy tweed sport coat and have both of the best.  

And I don't give a damn if this isn't New England, my first suit was tweed (already had a midnight blue blazer). Realized with my lifestyle better to have a few durable sartorial options. My worsted pants from thrift are failing so now have ordered fabric samples for one or two tweed pants. Per your suggestion Peak, trying to avoid unpleasant shades of brown.


----------



## 215339

Flanderian said:


> Nice ties! 👍
> 
> Rather well cut for a contemporary suit!
> 
> Now buy that boy some socks! :icon_study:


Agreed on both counts.

No clinging/pulling, and I didn't even notice the lack of socks, was too enamored with the cloth. 


Flanderian said:


> Simple. Classic. Classy!
> 
> View attachment 35356


That man's instagram is a goldmine for inspiration.

https://www.instagram.com/acutestyle/?hl=en


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> @Flanderian has dug up another swell shot, scratching an itch (mine) for simplicity.
> 
> Couple of observations. Are lots here stuck on the bell collar thing? Fine if so, but strikes as studied, like tie dimples. Cannot tell from pic if pockets are patch, but visible seaming suggests it. And the vertical seam suggests a gusset, as dart seams running similar usually end before the pocket.
> 
> Many think a blue blazer is the essential jacket when starting out, when finances or space dictate a single jacket. I would buy that if you're in a more temperate climate than mine. But I think something like the jacket pictured above is the more essential, if you ever pass under a sign that says Welcome to New England.


I haven't owned a navy blazer in over twenty years as I use my grey herringbone instead. It is, for me, just as versatile - I'd argue even more so as I'm not a fan of navy blazers with jeans, but tweed herringbones and jeans work well together.

On vacation, I'll take my grey herringbone with a pair of jeans, chinos and grey dress trousers and know I'm good to go for just about any situation.

Hey, how come Flanderian can post close-up shots like than without getting the cr*p I get? (Just having fun, I'm not being serious.)


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 35358


Lovely Fair Isle too!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Lovely Fair Isle too!


Yes and being in muted colors tones down its Fair-Isle-ness.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Yes and being in muted colors tones down its Fair-Isle-ness.


Lovely colors, rich and versatile!

Had a similar slip-on in the unusual colors of forest green, heather, lavender and ecru, but somehow in the last 35 years it seems to have shrunk, and my wife had to pack it off to the thrift shop. 😭


----------



## Troones

I just posted a poll/thread asking for advice on which set of buttons to have added to a nice tan tweed sportcoat. My wife will be sewing them on for me later today so I'm hoping some of you tweed fans could vote. I'm going to ask her to sew on the ones that get the most votes. Its getting cool out there these mornings. Tweed season is here!


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> I haven't owned a navy blazer in over twenty years as I use my grey herringbone instead. It is, for me, just as versatile - I'd argue even more so as I'm not a fan of navy blazers with jeans, but tweed herringbones and jeans work well together.
> 
> On vacation, I'll take my grey herringbone with a pair of jeans, chinos and grey dress trousers and know I'm good to go for just about any situation.
> 
> [...]


Has the times gotten that informal one no longer needs a navy blazer?



Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 35358


Myself was of the understanding jeans are not a proper sartorial option and haven't bought any in ages. I can say not keen on the look of warn jeans, those are for work. Now you got me thinking, as Dad had purchased about half dozen new jeans which I accepted, so will have to give a try.


----------



## Fading Fast

Adriel Rowley said:


> Has the times gotten that informal one no longer needs a navy blazer?
> 
> Myself was of the understanding jeans are not a proper sartorial option and haven't bought any in ages. I can say not keen on the look of warn jeans, those are for work. Now you got me thinking, as Dad had purchased about half dozen new jeans which I accepted, so will have to give a try.


Re the navy blazer, owing to the casualness of dress today, in general, it's no longer the essential it once was. To be sure, everyone's life is different, so of course, I'm sure it's still essential to some.

But whereas our society once was very dressy and, even up until the '90s, still had a lot of "jackets required" situations - either by rules or conventions - there are not too many of those left. And in those situations, it is rare that only a navy blazer would do.

Growing up in the '70s and going to college in the early '80s, a navy blazer was my only sport coat and it got me through everything - weddings, funerals, nicer restaurants, dinner at someone's house (usually taken off once you got there, but showing up in it showed respect), etc.

But today, most of those situations don't call for a sport coat (though I still wear one to most of them), so I bet a lot of young men no longer own one.

I was just an average kid from an average family - no money, no social connections, dad hadn't gone to college, etc. - but most of the kids (from similar homes) in my neighborhood owned a navy blazer (usually bought, like mine, from a discount warehouse) because you needed it. I have three nephews ranging in age from mid-teens to early twenties and none of them own one.

Re jeans. There are a lot of opinions on jeans - we have a few threads here at AAAC on them - so the following is just my opinion. Jeans have a place in my wardrobe even, today, for some nicer casual situations.

Nice jeans - no rips, etc - with a OCBD shirt, tweed sport coat, bucks is, IMO, a nice "upscale" causal outfit that today I find works in a lot of situations such as restaurants, nice bars or a party at someone's house (where a lot of guest will come in jeans and T-shirts). I know you are a fan of tweed and, again, just my opinion, but tweed's rough texture works very well with jean's rough texture.

Tying our two subjects together - I don't like jeans with a navy blazer as their textures (which is smooth for most blazers) don't work well with each other, but I see it done all the time by people who, in general, dress well, so I guess I'm just an outlier on that one.

And there's always this, if @upr_crust wears jeans, that means they are quite acceptable.


----------



## Fading Fast

A thoughtful outfit combining a lot of elements. I have a feeling my friend Flanderian will be joining me in pining for the Fair Isle vest.


----------



## eagle2250

^^ 
A great rig, for sure. I do like that Faire Isle cardigan vest. I've enjoyed several Faire Isle vest designs, but they have been the v-neck sweater vests and not cardigan designs.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> A thoughtful outfit combining a lot of elements. I have a feeling my friend Flanderian will be joining me in pining for the Fair Isle vest.
> View attachment 35394


Yup, love the sweater!

(Tan hip-hugers with a 5" rise, not so much. )


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> Re the navy blazer, owing to the casualness of dress today, in general, it's no longer the essential it once was. To be sure, everyone's life is different, so of course, I'm sure it's still essential to some.
> 
> But whereas our society once was very dressy and, even up until the '90s, still had a lot of "jackets required" situations - either by rules or conventions - there are not too many of those left. And in those situations, it is rare that only a navy blazer would do.
> 
> Growing up in the '70s and going to college in the early '80s, a navy blazer was my only sport coat and it got me through everything - weddings, funerals, nicer restaurants, dinner at someone's house (usually taken off once you got there, but showing up in it showed respect), etc.
> 
> But today, most of those situations don't call for a sport coat (though I still wear one to most of them), so I bet a lot of young men no longer own one.
> 
> I was just an average kid from an average family - no money, no social connections, dad hadn't gone to college, etc. - but most of the kids (from similar homes) in my neighborhood owned a navy blazer (usually bought, like mine, from a discount warehouse) because you needed it. I have three nephews ranging in age from mid-teens to early twenties and none of them own one.
> 
> Re jeans. There are a lot of opinions on jeans - we have a few threads here at AAAC on them - so the following is just my opinion. Jeans have a place in my wardrobe even, today, for some nicer casual situations.
> 
> Nice jeans - no rips, etc - with a OCBD shirt, tweed sport coat, bucks is, IMO, a nice "upscale" causal outfit that today I find works in a lot of situations such as restaurants, nice bars or a party at someone's house (where a lot of guest will come in jeans and T-shirts). I know you are a fan of tweed and, again, just my opinion, but tweed's rough texture works very well with jean's rough texture.
> 
> Tying our two subjects together - I don't like jeans with a navy blazer as their textures (which is smooth for most blazers) don't work well with each other, but I see it done all the time by people who, in general, dress well, so I guess I'm just an outlier on that one.
> 
> And there's always this, if @upr_crust wears jeans, that means they are quite acceptable.


Really appreciate your help with what I thought was a simple question. Merely noticing that maybe at times over dressed. I have for example accidentally found myself the best dressed male at weddings, except the groom or the only one wearing a coat to a funeral (my midnight blue blazer). Even switching just the blazer with a tweed sport coat bring it down, though if was made aware (which all the invitations have yet) was a casual wedding, now know substitute the chinos/slacks for denim jeans.

As you might have seen, Dad's navy blazer has some aquamarine and marine blue hint to it. It and the other two sport coats were purchased because his sartorial selection didn't meet the high expectations of his rich in-laws' events of the 1980s. Being that and a slub silk, feels more casual, though still couldn't put denim jeans with it because of my understanding a blazer sits between a sport coat and suit.

I used to socialize, though with my lack of folks wanting to be around someone slightly different, financial resources, lack of transportation, and organizations changing rules to keep me out, have quit forcing myself on them. Instead, dress in a sport coat for other times out (in part to keep warm without being looking crazy wearing a sweater in Summer). Though now know if did get the opportunity, have the understanding to dress more appropriately thanks to you.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## JBierly

It is 97 degrees here today and decidedly not Tweed Season...


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Years ago not knowing what know now, bought Ecco driving shoes, put away the black intending to sell because couldn't seem to make work, though glad I didn't as only current black shoes I have until condition Opa's laced shoes.

Felt odd wearing a sport coat and jeans at first, though do agree with Fading Fast a wonderful casual pairing.


----------



## Fading Fast

I need to see the jeans and jacket on to know if they work as, shown this way, they might be too close in color. Otherwise, I love the shoes and the general vibe of the outfit, but would lose the PS and go with and OCBD shirt.


----------



## eagle2250

I agree with your reported concern. The hue of the jeans and the jacket are too close to really work. I fear the end result will be an AmJack version of a do it yourself suit kit!


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Today went to the gym for the first time since High School. This morning hit me, jeans be just the pants. Brisk this morning, will have to remember the overcoat tomorrow.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Adriel Rowley

You know how you just say one look on eBay and then spend too much time? Well a J. Crew Westbourne came up in the recommendation despite not looking or searching for tweed as thought couldn't afford, and instantly fell in love. Resisted two days and tonight gave in... Partly as realized the price paid couldn't even purchase the yardage required and if could find another, be far more expensive (currently none on their website). Supposedly eBay says be here Saturday or sooner via Priority from Santa Monica, like Christmas early.


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ It's a handsome looking coat. Enjoy.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 35436


Great tweed!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Great tweed!


Agreed, I might have de-oranged some of the rest of the outfit, but the tweed is fantastic.


----------



## Mr. B. Scott Robinson

October 2, noon, Atlanta...please stop....

Cheers,

BSR


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 35436


That Tweed suit literally shouts out, "It's Fall, it's Fall, it's Fall at last, but as illustrated in Mr B. Scott Robinson's post #1847 and what our afternoon temperature is today here in central Florida is a delightful 87 degrees F. shout out is "Hell No it is not!"


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> That Tweed suit literally shouts out, "It's Fall, it's Fall, it's Fall at last, but as illustrated in Mr B. Scott Robinson's post #1847 and what our afternoon temperature is today here in central Florida is a delightful 87 degrees F. shout out is "Hell No it is not!"


It's 91 degrees F right now in NYC, but going down to 56 overnight with a projected high or 58, 65 and 60 for the next three days. No tweed right now, but maybe yes sometime over the next three days.


----------



## Flanderian

88 in Joisy!


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Only 90*F with a pleasant breeze here in Mesa, wore a tweed suit because the dental office so darn cold and inside regretting hadn't brought another layer. A hot lunch outside did the trick to bring me back to comfortable. Was fine the rest of the day and glad can wear tweed again.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## never behind

65 tomorrow! Might break out the moleskin trousers and a tweed jacket!


----------



## eagle2250

Adriel Rowley said:


> Only 90*F with a pleasant breeze here in Mesa, wore a tweed suit because the dental office so darn cold and inside regretting hadn't brought another layer. A hot lunch outside did the trick to bring me back to comfortable. Was fine the rest of the day and glad can wear tweed again.


Mr Rowley, you are looking good today. I admire the cut of your jib (whatever that term means), but frankly you must be a better man than I, for I cannot bear the thought of wearing Tweed in 90+ degree air temps. When the temps drop to 70 degrees and less, I'll bring out the tweed!


----------



## Fading Fast

The jeans and chambray shirt don't feel right together to me - to jean-on-jean.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 35459
> 
> The jeans and chambray shirt don't feel right together to me - to jean-on-jean.


I agree. Drop the jeans and replace with a pair of charcoal wool gabs and that rig would be an unquestionable winner!


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> I agree. Drop the jeans and replace with a pair of charcoal wool gabs and that rig would be an unquestionable winner!


⇧ Good substitute. Also stone chinos would work / or keep the jeans and move to a white OCBD.


----------



## cmoore

Yeah, I was thinking a white or light blue shirt, less texture the instant I saw that. Just the instant first impression.

But I supposed stone or charcoal trousers would totally make it as well. I think my head was entirely stuck in blue on blue for some reason.


----------



## Troones

I wish we could wear jeans in my office, just for Fridays. Tomorrow morning is set to be nice and chilly and I'm going to debut my tan tweed jacket with freshly added (brown) leather buttons. I'd love to go with a white OCBD and dark wash jeans. However, I get that would lead to the slippery slope of "business casual."


----------



## Adriel Rowley

eagle2250 said:


> Mr Rowley, you are looking good today. I admire the cut of your jib (whatever that term means), but frankly you must be a better man than I, for I cannot bear the thought of wearing Tweed in 90+ degree air temps. When the temps drop to 70 degrees and less, I'll bring out the tweed!


Appreciate the complement. As to its origin, maybe this reading will enlighten: https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/cut_of_one's_jib.

As to wearing tweed in warm outdoor climate, that was not the intent, instead wearing it for the cold indoor climate. For some reason, these non-natives (myself am a desert rat) insist on an indoor temperature which is conducive in keeping the blood flowing at a pace slower than a turtle's crawl. Rather, if they allow a tad warmer they wouldn't be affected by the outdoor temperature as much. Though do admit I run cold.

Anyone interested in the tweed samples that arrived last night? Don't want to waste time only to have the same response as previous.


----------



## never behind

52 degrees this morning with a high of 68. So I broke out my lightweight tweed jacket. So happy fall weather is here.


----------



## Fading Fast

Feels vintage Esquire to me. Flanderian - thoughts on the shirt?


----------



## eagle2250

^^
Everything about that rig, except for the shirt collar, looks darn near perfect to me. Though the collar does appear reminiscent of the good old days!


----------



## Troones

My first tweed wearing of the season.


----------



## Fading Fast

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 35484
> 
> Feels vintage Esquire to me. Flanderian - thoughts on the shirt?


I have an affinity for old-fashion tab, pin, collar bar collars - but I respect that they aren't everyone's cup of tea. What really caught my attention (calling Flanderian) is the boldness of the shirt's pattern itself. I think it works, but it would not be the way I'd go.

N.B. Love the heft of Troones' sport coat a post above.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 35484
> 
> 
> Feels vintage Esquire to me. Flanderian - thoughts on the shirt?


I really, really don't like that Herbert Hoover shirt collar but the rest is super.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> Everything about that rig, except for the shirt collar, looks darn near perfect to me. Though the collar does appear reminiscent of the good old days!





Oldsarge said:


> I really, really don't like that Herbert Hoover shirt collar but the rest is super.


(Note to self: if AAAC ever has a get together and Old Sarge or Eagle is going to be there, remember not to wear one of my old-fashion pin, tab or collar bar collars.)

Edit add: (Further note to self re AAAC get together: if Peak and Pine or Shaver is going to be there, don't go - while I sincerely like those guys and respect their posts - they scare the hell out of me.)


----------



## Oldsarge

I wasn't sure whether to post this here or in the Old School Gentlemen's Thread. So just call him a tweedy old gentleman.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 35490
> 
> 
> I wasn't sure whether to post this here or in the Old School Gentlemen's Thread. So just call him a tweedy old gentleman.


That's one of the best pictures I've ever seen on the forum. The tweed, the sweater, all good; all fit together. But the picture itself, the best.

Fading Fast: *Boo!*
Anything?
I didn't think so.
Just an old gas bag letting out air.
Don't fear me or the Reaper.
(This thread needs more cowbell.)


----------



## Fading Fast

First full-on fall day in NYC, 48F right now. Thought this felt very old-school fall and collegiate:


----------



## eagle2250

Nicely done...I really like that crew neck sweater worn with that Tweed. However, I would have lost the bow tie and left the collar open


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> First full-on fall day in NYC, 48F right now. Thought this felt very old-school fall and collegiate:
> View attachment 35497


Smashing. Do you, by chance, have any horn rimmed spectacles to go with it?


----------



## Fading Fast

A complete body shot for my friend P&P:


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> A complete body shot for my friend P&P:
> View attachment 35512


I likes that.
Plus the complete body shot.
I used to have one of those, a complete body. Until I fell off a roof decades ago and parts of me changed shape. The silver lining? No silver lining to falling off a roof, a tin foil one maybe: it forced me into tailoring my own stuff so, clothed at least, I looked like I did before I fell off the roof.


----------



## Oldsarge

Yup, falling off roofs is definitely contra-indicated.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ nice.


----------



## xcubbies

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ nice.
> 
> View attachment 35536


Godfather III


----------



## xcubbies

Fading Fast said:


> A complete body shot for my friend P&P:
> View attachment 35512


Was that photograph taken in Orono?


----------



## Fading Fast

xcubbies said:


> Was that photograph taken in Orono?


I'm sorry, I do not know.


----------



## Peak and Pine

xcubbies said:


> Was that photograph taken in Orono?





Fading Fast said:


> I'm sorry, I do not know.


Here's where I come in handy.
Xcubbies should know that he and I are the only ones here who know what _Orono _is. Xcubbies is from Maine, but unlike me does not mention it in every post. _Orono _is a small town next to Bangor that is home to the University of Maine. I have no idea why the question, especially since it's a Ralph Lauren ad and Ralph Lauren has never been north of Far Rockaway.


----------



## Oldsarge

This was not taken in Orono.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> This was not taken in Orono


My favorite is the one in the center, followed by the one on the right, then the one on the left. That said, I like all three - the Tweed sport coats of course.


----------



## Fading Fast

Something different for today:









And a bonus pic if the above one doesn't do it for you:








Love the car and love that color green for British sports cars.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

On the good side of not bad. The guy who was running off about wearing burgundy pants in a recent thread should look at this. With this much patterned tweed, jacket and vest, maybe an unpatterned cap? Leather piping at cuff nice touch. Guy has sinister eyes.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Second look has me thinking cap is of the same patterned fabric as coat and vest. Calling Nancy Reagan.


----------



## Troones

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> On the good side of not bad. The guy who was running off about wearing burgundy pants in a recent thread should look at this. With this much patterned tweed, jacket and vest, maybe an unpatterned cap? Leather piping at cuff nice touch. Guy has sinister eyes.


I think that was me. I do tend to "run off" now and again. 🤐 By coincidence I happen to be wearing them right now.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Troones said:


> I think that was me. I do tend to "run off" now and again. 🤐 By coincidence I happen to be wearing them right now.


Er, perhaps I speak a wee roughly at times. Sorry. Glad you're liking the pants.


----------



## Oldsarge

This I understand:










But would someone explain this?


----------



## eagle2250

$3000! Sure it sounds like a lot to spend at Men's Warehouse, but it's not a bad price for Bespoke...yes. no? The vented crotch on the trousers is an innovative solution to allow the wear of tweed during warmer weather!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

A great Tweed and a nice rig overall, but I think I would replace that grey shirt with a white or perhaps a powder blue one.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> A great Tweed and a nice rig overall, but I think I would replace that grey shirt with a white or perhaps a powder blue one.


On my screen, the shirt comes through more blue denim than grey. As a blue denim shirt, I kinda like it in the outfit, but am curious what others are seeing and think?


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Nice jacket.
So why would you want to mess it up by adding that other stuff, including the glasses? (Think the shirt's blue.)

Lose the tie, the sweater and the glasses. Unbutton the collar button. Keep the square. Grab a Molson.


----------



## Oldsarge

He looks entirely too Trad Frat Boy all buttoned up like that. I'm with Peaky and I'd add a driving cap in a contrasting tweed.


----------



## 127.72 MHz

While I love tweed, my first impression is that he is a poser,......(Perhaps a model would be more accurate.)

I can appreciate the cloth.


----------



## Fading Fast

127.72 MHz said:


> While I love tweed, my first impression is that he is a poser,......(Perhaps a model would be more accurate.)
> 
> I can appreciate the cloth.


Pretty much how I felt. I like the items individually and even think they go together nicely, but where in the real world would anyone wear that outfit without it being a costume or look-at-me outfit?

I could see, as P&P suggested, the jacket and shirt alone being a good combo.


----------



## Oldsport

Of course that's an advertisement photograph. I'll bet PRL.


----------



## StephenRG

Button stance looks too high and uncomfortable.


----------



## Peak and Pine

StephenRG said:


> Button stance looks too high and uncomfortable.


Not familiar with the concept of uncomfortable button stance. Or a too high one, something to be shunned apparently, since it's commented on negatively here all the time.

Understand please that the creator of this post often adds a third button to a two-button jacket, closing the jacket up for another four-inches, wanting the jacket to be the star, not just a third of the shirt tie jacket troika. The photo discussed seems a carnival of bow tie, multi-colored sweater, giant glasses, chambray shirt and pocket square, almost burying the jacket which because of its seaming, texture and stripes, could be a little show of its own. If allowed.


----------



## Fading Fast

Love the sport coat


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Aye, a nice coat.
Shame it's being worn by Pouty Boy with once again, too much stuff.
Ah, but below, just enough stuff. Plus good hair.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 35618
> 
> Love the sport coat


That is indeed a very handsome sport coat, but alas, he is sporting just too much pocket square or perhaps, not enough breast pocket on that jacket? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Do you know what the correct term for the "pleat" in his breast pocket is called? I used to, but can't remember.


----------



## Peak and Pine

It's an _inverted pleat. _
The entire pocket could be termed gusseted, though a true gusset would have expansion pleats on the sides and bottom.


----------



## eagle2250

^^
A box pleat, perhaps, or a gusset?


----------



## Peak and Pine

Pay attention, Eagle, I've already been through this.
Below, a full gusset.
Plus a throat latch, just for Fading Fast.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> A box pleat, perhaps, or a gusset?


No time to read your post as I was running for cover as you should be.


----------



## Troones

Hey gents,

I'm not sure if I should be creating a separate thread for this, but as its tweed related:

What do you think of wearing a tweed sportcoat as a go-to daily, or close to daily jacket? I have a couple of Harris tweeds from J Press including the one I posted last week. They're basically bullet proof. I really want to wear them in as I know they just get better with age and wear. But its tough to do that without regular wear. One fits me better than the other at the moment, so I was considering making it the weekday jacket on days that I don't need to wear suits. 

Provided I keep it clean (and it doesn't get smelly) what do you think? They're basic herringbones so I don't think I would become the guy in "that jacket." Or would I?


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

This seems reasonable. Even desirable.

A tip, if you're going to wear these jackets as often as you say, and you have no plans to increase their quanity, consider this. Screw in a heavy duty hook near the back door and place each day's jacket inside out and on a hanger on the hook outside overnight. Rain expected, bag it, snow though will shake off. This won't work if you live in an apartment. Or in your car.


----------



## Fading Fast

Troones said:


> Hey gents,
> 
> I'm not sure if I should be creating a separate thread for this, but as its tweed related:
> 
> What do you think of wearing a tweed sportcoat as a go-to daily, or close to daily jacket? I have a couple of Harris tweeds from J Press including the one I posted last week. They're basically bullet proof. I really want to wear them in as I know they just get better with age and wear. But its tough to do that without regular wear. One fits me better than the other at the moment, so I was considering making it the weekday jacket on days that I don't need to wear suits.
> 
> Provided I keep it clean (and it doesn't get smelly) what do you think? They're basic herringbones so I don't think I would become the guy in "that jacket." Or would I?


I do just that. I have several (very similar looking) herringbone tweed sport coats that are my everyday jacket from now until the next summer. I have a few casual jackets (not Harringtons, but that idea), but I very rarely wear them as I'm most happy in my tweed sport coats.

In NYC, until a few years ago, I didn't stand out at all, but as suits and sport coats continue to disappear, I am standing out a bit based on the number of compliments I get. I'm pretty confident I'm not the subject of talk as it's not that unusual to wear a sport coat in NYC. As to your situation, you have to look at how others are dressed and listen to the unsolicited feedback you receive to decide if you're standing out.

As to care, I hang and leave them out of the closet to air after wearing, brush them regularly and dry clean them infrequently as I dislike dry cleaning. I don't sweat often and the sport coat is never directly against my body, so with airing, brushing and the occasional dry cleaning, they stay clean, smell free and last and last and last.

In my heaven, tweed sport coats are worn all the time since it's always fall except for a month or so of winter and snow around Christmas - then, back to fall.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Troones

Fading Fast said:


> I do just that. I have several (very similar looking) herringbone tweed sport coats that are my everyday jacket from now until the next summer. I have a few casual jackets (not Harringtons, but that idea), but I very rarely wear them as I'm most happy in my tweed sport coats.
> 
> In NYC, until a few years ago, I didn't stand out at all, but as suits and sport coats continue to disappear, I am standing out a bit based on the number of compliments I get. I'm pretty confident I'm not the subject of talk as it's not that unusual to wear a sport coat in NYC. As to your situation, you have to look at how others are dressed and listen to the unsolicited feedback you receive to decide if you're standing out.
> 
> As to care, I hang and leave them out of the closet to air after wearing, brush them regularly and dry clean them infrequently as I dislike dry cleaning. I don't sweat often and the sport coat is never directly against my body, so with airing, brushing and the occasional dry cleaning, they stay clean, smell free and last and last and last.
> 
> In my heaven, tweed sport coats are worn all the time since it's always fall except for a month or so of winter and snow around Christmas - then, back to fall.


I'm inspired by this. And I've worn my tan tweed most days this week. The weather has been ideal for it the whole week. Cool mornings, warming to seasonal but low humidity through the day, and then cool evenings. Just perfect tweed weather.
I worked in downtown Toronto for years, where suits, sportcoats and such are still fairly common, but the job I started earlier in the year has me working uptown. Its another busy business district though much more casual so I probably do stand out. Once in my office though, I'm good. I'm in one of the few offices that are still around that enforce a business formal dress code.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 35642


I just ordered a jacket in 10 oz fabric that looks just like that! It will pair with dark brown moleskin trousers.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> I just ordered a jacket in 10 oz fabric that looks just like that! It will pair with dark brown moleskin trousers.


Classic item - will look great with moleskins. Enjoy. A pic when it arrives would be great.


----------



## SpicyP

ive been wanting a tweed double breasted blazer/sports coat for work, but no place here sells it.
just tweed single breasted 
or double breasted regular wool


----------



## Oldsarge

I can't say as I've ever seen a double breasted tweed sport coat. Has anyone else? I kind of fear it would be a MTM/bespoke item and to me it would look somewhat odd. Overcoat, yes. Sport coat? Hmmm.


----------



## Oldsarge

Another single.


----------



## Oldsarge

But if you do decide on a double breasted tweed, here's some fabric.


----------



## never behind

I ordered a new tweed jacket...delivered today. Longest work afternoon ever. You guys aren’t helping posting all these pictures.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> I can't say as I've ever seen a double breasted tweed sport coat. Has anyone else? I kind of fear it would be a MTM/bespoke item and to me it would look somewhat odd. Overcoat, yes. Sport coat? Hmmm.


Think feel the same as tweed seems too informal for peak lapels.

I have seen it MTM, though don't recall which online company.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## never behind

Well my excitement lasted about 5 minutes. Very nice olive herringbone but my big butt and the single vent aren't friends.


----------



## Peak and Pine

never behind said:


> Well my excitement lasted about 5 minutes. Very nice olive herringbone but my big butt and the single vent aren't friends.
> View attachment 35667
> 
> View attachment 35669


What is it you fear here?
The back, until the vent, looks very good, shoulders on down. Sew the vent shut. Should that result in a pulling wrinkle, expand the vent overlap by an inch, there's fabric for that, then sew shut. I see little here to disappoint.


----------



## Oldsarge

The best friend of the well-dressed man on a budget is a skilled alterations tailor.


----------



## never behind

Peak and Pine said:


> What is it you fear here?
> The back, until the vent, looks very good, shoulders on down. Sew the vent shut. Should that result in a pulling wrinkle, expand the vent overlap by an inch, there's fabric for that, then sew shut. I see little here to disappoint.


Okay, maybe I was hasty. I'm fairly ignorant when it comes to alterations. I was surprised at how well it fit out of the box.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Front shot, good too. Few receive a jacket at the mailbox all set to go. You came close. Length, chest, shoulders, all good. Sleeves a wee long, but passable. Should you choose to expand the vent's over-flap and not find enough fabric under the flap, each side seam...hip downward...may be able to be let, up to 3/4" each.


----------



## SpicyP

Oldsarge said:


> I can't say as I've ever seen a double breasted tweed sport coat. Has anyone else? I kind of fear it would be a MTM/bespoke item and to me it would look somewhat odd. Overcoat, yes. Sport coat? Hmmm.


i havent seen one in stores here but here's a link to some one's album. I really like the look.

https://thenordicfit.com/articles/double-breasted-tweed-jacket-for-winter


----------



## Oldsarge

Hmmm, Finnish. Interesting, you know. It's always intriguing to see what others do with an essentially British fabric. Have you enquired with SuitSupply about having one shipped to Tokyo?


----------



## Fading Fast

never behind said:


> Well my excitement lasted about 5 minutes. Very nice olive herringbone but my big butt and the single vent aren't friends.
> View attachment 35667
> 
> View attachment 35669


Your line did make me chuckle.

But as others have noted, assuming a little extra material (which any decently made sport coat should have), that vent situation can be fixed.

Closing the vent as P&P suggests would do it, but before that, I'd see if the tailor can't take out the "skirt" a bit at the sides or back seam which might just be enough to get the vent to close properly and lay flat.

Good luck - it's a nice looking jacket with, as you note, a good out-of-the-box fit to work from.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

Not so sure I'm excited about displaying outfits as above.
May be just me. 
May be because they resemble how my mother used to lay out my church clothes on a bed in the spare bedroom each Saturday night. Sprinkled with a touch of ash. Mom smoked like a GI on leave.


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> ... Mom smoked like a GI on leave.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Adriel Rowley

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 35698


Like except wearing the pullover on the wrong side of the coat.


----------



## eagle2250

Adriel Rowley said:


> Like except wearing the pullover on the wrong side of the coat.


I agree....the young gentleman would be better served by pulling the sweater on and then donning his jacket, over the sweater. As is, he comes off as a bit pretentious.


----------



## Peak and Pine

eagle2250 said:


> As is, he comes off as a bit pretentious.


A bit?
I grew up with those Brideshead types who acted 50 at 20 and folded their arms like that. I am familiar with the inside pockets of those jackets, gone through as they lay passed out on the adjacent bed, never a penny more taken than would cover the cost of a jar of Glade to air out the dorm room of vodka and vomit, and maybe a Snickers despite the acne.


----------



## Oldsarge

I'm not impressed with the haircut, either.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Fading Fast

Is that a silk knot in his lapel's button hole?


----------



## Semper Jeep

SpicyP said:


> ive been wanting a tweed double breasted blazer/sports coat for work, but no place here sells it.
> just tweed single breasted
> or double breasted regular wool





Oldsarge said:


> I can't say as I've ever seen a double breasted tweed sport coat. Has anyone else? I kind of fear it would be a MTM/bespoke item and to me it would look somewhat odd. Overcoat, yes. Sport coat? Hmmm.


I have one in a super heavyweight boucle tweed. Mine was a MTO. I'll see if I can find a picture and post it up. The daytime highs need to stay in the 30s or so before I break it out!


----------



## Semper Jeep

Found it!

Not the best photography skills.



















After wearing it a couple of times at the end of last winter, I had to get some suspender buttons added to the pants, they are just too heavyweight to wear with a belt without them sagging just a little bit.


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Absolutely awesome suit. It has a very '40s vintage vibe. The material looks incredible.


----------



## Oldsarge

I can see where you would want pretty serious (by my standards) cold to wear that suit. It looks to allow you to laugh in the teeth of a gale. Great look.


----------



## eagle2250

I would describe that suit as 'hand woven body armor...bullet proof, for sure!


----------



## Semper Jeep

"Armor" is exactly how I describe it when I wear it. There's just something about a heavy double breasted jacket, be it flannel or corduroy or tweed, that just feels like I'm wrapped up in some kevlar.


----------



## frydeswide

Adriel Rowley said:


> Think feel the same as tweed seems too informal for peak lapels.
> 
> I have seen it MTM, though don't recall which online company.


I think that Ben Silver has one or more in the latest catalog.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## never behind

I'm in NYC, so I stopped by J Press to check it out. Nice little shop with some very friendly gentlemen. I took some pics of the tweed and modeled a nice green tic. Maybe everyone knows this, but it was news to me - in the NYC shop they have a table of fabrics (enough to make 1-2 coats) you can choose to have a stock jacket made at normal price. The gentleman said they did Magee tweeds last year and are doing Harris tweeds this year. The last pic is the table of options.
Magee Tweeds








Harris Tweeds
















Green Tic Harris








Harris Tweed cloths for one-off jackets


----------



## eagle2250

^^
Wow! A whole lot of good choices to be made there.


----------



## Fading Fast

never behind said:


> I'm in NYC, so I stopped by J Press to check it out. Nice little shop with some very friendly gentlemen. I took some pics of the tweed and modeled a nice green tic. Maybe everyone knows this, but it was news to me - in the NYC shop they have a table of fabrics (enough to make 1-2 coats) you can choose to have a stock jacket made at normal price. The gentleman said they did Magee tweeds last year and are doing Harris tweeds this year. The last pic is the table of options.
> Magee Tweeds
> View attachment 35781
> 
> Harris Tweeds
> View attachment 35782
> 
> View attachment 35783
> 
> Green Tic Harris
> View attachment 35784
> 
> Harris Tweed cloths for one-off jackets
> View attachment 35785


Great pics and color thank you for posting.


----------



## Fading Fast

Love the material and love the three-piece idea. Yes, it's too skinny, but not as skinny as many today (I can almost feel a bit of '60s slim vs modern skinny in it).

The tie showing under the bottom of the vest needs to be addressed. I really like the pin collar, but the pin needs to be smaller (shorter) so that the collar "dimples" around the tie.


----------



## Semper Jeep

never behind said:


> I'm in NYC, so I stopped by J Press to check it out. Nice little shop with some very friendly gentlemen. I took some pics of the tweed and modeled a nice green tic. Maybe everyone knows this, but it was news to me - in the NYC shop they have a table of fabrics (enough to make 1-2 coats) you can choose to have a stock jacket made at normal price. The gentleman said they did Magee tweeds last year and are doing Harris tweeds this year. The last pic is the table of options.
> Magee Tweeds
> 
> Harris Tweed cloths for one-off jackets
> View attachment 35785


I haven't had a desire to go to NYC in some time but this makes it a lot more appealing. There are some really nice options on that table of tweed fabrics!


----------



## Fading Fast

Something different for today:


----------



## Oldsarge

A way to introduce teens and Millenials to the delights of tweed.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ nice, very classic.


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 35831


Nice Tweed. Welcome back! We missed you.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> Nice Tweed. Welcome back! We missed you.


:happy: :icon_saint7kg:


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 35886


One could wish for a more complete view.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> One could wish for a more complete view.


One could, but oh, the depth of texture! :icon_saint7kg:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 35896


A bold herringbone pattern (one of my favorite sartorial things), a heavy tweed and a wide cuff - heaven.


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 35896


I am an avowed fan of Tweeds, but in this instance, forget the Tweed and look at those seductively handsome Tobacco suede Chelsea's! The argyle socks provide a great transition to the trouser leg's color palette. Once again, I think I may be in lust.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> A bold herringbone pattern (one of my favorite sartorial things), a heavy tweed and a wide cuff - heaven.


Yes, it's beautiful stuff. I don't recall where I found the photo, but I believe it may be the gentleman who posts as Cleav in the tumbler blog, English Flower Garden. I believe the trousers are part of a suit, and I too find that tweed gorgeous.



eagle2250 said:


> I am an avowed fan of Tweeds, but in this instance, forget the Tweed and look at those seductively handsome Tobacco suede Chelsea's! The argyle socks provide a great transition to the trouser leg's color palette. Once again, I think I may be in lust.


Thought of you when I discovered the photo, knowing you're fond of them. Wasn't sure whether this belonged under tweeds, or amazing shoes!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Winhes2

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 35935


What are these beautiful ties?


----------



## Flanderian

Winhes2 said:


> What are these beautiful ties?


Sorry, don't know the maker. 

No information beyond the image itself. Could be Drake's. Could be Shibumi-Firenze.


----------



## Flanderian

Winhes2 said:


> What are these beautiful ties?


Ask, and ye shall receive! irate:

Now, all you need is a fat wallet. 😭


----------



## Winhes2

Flanderian said:


> Ask, and ye shall receive! irate:
> 
> Now, all you need is a fat wallet. 😭


Thanks. I tried a Google image search of your image and didn't find this site. Saw similar ties from mills in the UK.

Fat wallet is right.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 35970


Nice! 👍


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Nice! 👍


I thought it was a very pleasing combination too.


----------



## eagle2250

The peach sweater coordinates remarkably well with that jacket.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ I don't know, as a suit, that might just be too much. It would definitely make a nice sport coat.


----------



## Fading Fast

A rare distaff Tweed post , but the dress is just so classic / so '50s perfect.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> A rare distaff Tweed post , but the dress is just so classic / so '50s perfect.
> View attachment 36005


Agreed! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ I don't know, as a suit, that might just be too much. It would definitely make a nice sport coat.


A bit of a "race track" suit?


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> A bit of a "race track" suit?


Especially if disheveled, pocket flaps half in - half out, some match burns and a copy of The Racing Form stuffed into a side pocket.


----------



## Fading Fast

I would have gone with a turtleneck or, at least, a higher-collar version of that sweater as I think it looks off when an overcoat's collar rests directly against one's uncovered neck. Perhaps he wanted to keep his tattoos visible. That said, I do like the sweater and coat combo, just would have preferred a higher collar for the sweater .


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 36028
> 
> I would have gone with a turtleneck or, at least, a higher-collar version of that sweater as I think it looks off when an overcoat's collar rests directly against one's uncovered neck. Perhaps he wanted to keep his tattoos visible. That said, I do like the sweater and coat combo, just would have preferred a higher collar for the sweater .


I agree with your original assessment; wool, tweed, bare skin...not only does it look a bit odd, but the itching/skin irratation must be close to maddening! :crazy:


----------



## Fading Fast

I was kind of with it until the floppy bowtie.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 36052
> 
> I was kind of with it until the floppy bowtie.


+1. That jacket and vest are indeed incredible. With all else so nicely buttoned up, the careless application of the tie does seem terribly out of step!


----------



## Fading Fast

Not sure it's tweed.


----------



## Fading Fast

And a quirky Sunday bonus:


----------



## fishertw

Anyone familiar with "Talking Tweeds"? Facebook group? I ran across it this morning and joined. Lots of vintage tweeds and commentary on tweed suits, jackets etc.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 36090


Ahhh . . . . ! 👍


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 36090


I'm breaking out in a sweat just looking at it, but loving the view anyway! I've just gotta import me some colder weather down here. LOL.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> I'm breaking out in a sweat just looking at it, but loving the view anyway! I've just gotta import me some colder weather down here. LOL.


The Fair Isle looks really good with the suit.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## CLTesquire

So I ordered this tweed from the Armoury. What do you guys think? Excuse the pants/tie combo as it arrived at the office and that's just what I'm wearing today. I think I'm pretty pleased with this jacket...


----------



## Oldsport

Beautiful jacket! Not liking the combo with the pants, shirt and that tie. To refined for the coat. But, as I see the tag, I'm sure this is just a 'try on for photo.'


----------



## CLTesquire

Yes I would not wear navy suit pants, a light blue broadcloth shirt, or a macclesfield tie with that jacket.

I would wear some grey flannels and an ancient madder or regimental tie with the jacket though.


----------



## Fading Fast

CLTesquire said:


> So I ordered this tweed from the Armoury. What do you guys think? Excuse the pants/tie combo as it arrived at the office and that's just what I'm wearing today. I think I'm pretty pleased with this jacket...
> 
> View attachment 36121


Looks like a very nice sport coat (I like the pleat on the pockets and the swelled edges overall). Also, heck of a fit OTR - even the sleeve is showing just the right amount of shirt cuff (after pressing, need to check as the left sleeve might be a bit longer than the right).

Hard to tell on my screen - what color is the coat?


----------



## Oldsport

CLTesquire said:


> Yes I would not wear navy suit pants, a light blue broadcloth shirt, or a macclesfield tie with that jacket.
> 
> I would some grey flannels and an ancient madder or regimental tie with the jacket though.


Doh! Sorry, should have 1) actually read what you wrote and 2) had more faith in you.

So sorry!


----------



## CLTesquire

@Fading Fast I actually folded the sleeves up a bit to see how it would look with a proper adjustment.  So I will have to have that adjusted but I think that's about it.

It's a mid brown herringbone.


----------



## mlenecare

I love that jacket !


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 36116


Nice!



CLTesquire said:


> So I ordered this tweed from the Armoury. What do you guys think? Excuse the pants/tie combo as it arrived at the office and that's just what I'm wearing today. I think I'm pretty pleased with this jacket...
> 
> View attachment 36121


And I think you should be!

Very nice! 👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## never behind

45 and rainy. Good day for tweed!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## SpicyP

I finally found myself a double breasted tweed blazer that I mentioned earlier!
I recently changed jobs that requires me to look a lot more presentable as we're meeting clients all the time. I had only one single breasted blazer that I kept in the office and used every day.

That was getting boring so I wanted to add a second blazer that had a different feel, and something warm since its getting cold. So I wanted a double breasted tweed blazer to be a bit more unique.

I thought it would be easy to find, but nope its pretty rare as people here suggested.
But one friendly member here was able to track down a site for me to check out over private message.

Unfortunately that site is in the US and I live in Japan and for outerwear at least, I really need to try in person before buying.. so I didn't want to take a risk of buying something I can't wear online.

Looking all over Japan I couldn't find it anywhere but two places. Zara and United Arrows. Both costed about $200 USD. at the same price point it was a no brainer, not going to spend $200 on Zara and went for the United Arrows one. 

That was also an interesting experience. I didnt know they had one as I randomly walked into the shop and didn't see it out on display. I asked the shop staff and they went into the stock room and brought out two that wasn't on display, a navy one and a brown one. I was tempted to buy a brown one as my single breasted blazer was navy.. but decided to play it safe and got the navy.

its about 90% wool, the rest some mix of nylon and other stuff. United Arrows is considered one of the better quality mall brand in Japan. I was in between M and L size.. M being more fitted.. but the shop staff did some kind of fist check. Where he put his fist inside the blazer closed to see how well it stretched, and recommend I go L.

I'm pretty happy and got a lot of compliments!


----------



## Semper Jeep

@SpicyP - That looks pretty great and it sounds like it was a good value.

Your picture reminds me of a very thick, very soft, double breasted jacket I have that looks like a brown herringbone tweed but _feels_ much closer to flannel.


----------



## Flanderian

never behind said:


> 45 and rainy. Good day for tweed!
> 
> View attachment 36139


Great tweed!



Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 36142


Very nice!


----------



## Flanderian

Dr. Andre Churchwell -


----------



## Adriel Rowley

What do y'all think about these pants?

Worth the $50 asking?










My looking for warmer pants spurred by a cold snap into the low 40s (was over 80 a couple days ago). Not easy finding tweed pants on eBay.


----------



## CLTesquire

Depends on the maker and, of course, if they fit you.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

CLTesquire said:


> Depends on the maker and, of course, if they fit you.


Sears.

Correct size.

Though will go an inch or two either way on cuffs and waistband as can adjust those myself.


----------



## Semper Jeep

Adriel Rowley said:


> Sears.
> 
> Correct size.
> 
> Though will go an inch or two either way on cuffs and waistband as can adjust those myself.


By Sears, are you referring to Lands End? If so, I had a pair from lands End similar to those a few years back that were definitely worth the price (mine were navy donegal). Sadly, I outgrew them. There were a nice lighter or mid weight which would probably be more than sufficient there in AZ.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Semper Jeep said:


> By Sears, are you referring to Lands End? If so, I had a pair from lands End similar to those a few years back that were definitely worth the price (mine were navy donegal). Sadly, I outgrew them. There were a nice lighter or mid weight which would probably be more than sufficient there in AZ.


I was trying not distract by saying they are 1970s or so. Legs can always be tapered. Though some vintage is better quality than now.

If was Sears Lands End, I would have my reservations as Sears just about ran them into the ground and still struggling to recover.

I already have a tweed pant which is almost coat weight and some days even not warm enough. Problem is I am lower body temperature regulated (so coats don't help as much as heavy trousers).


----------



## London380sl

For $50 - If they need altering other than hemming I'd pass on them.

I'd probably pass on them anyway based on what looks like a stain to the right of the pocket.


----------



## Adriel Rowley

London380sl said:


> For $50 - If they need altering other than hemming I'd pass on them.
> 
> I'd probably pass on them anyway based on what looks like a stain to the right of the pocket.


I must be blind if missed that. Very appreciative. By the way, learned after the third time, if has one moth hole, it means it will be riddled with them so I go over all the pictures very carefully.

Offered $20 and within about half hour was accepted. Surprised so quick and accepted, almost feels like should have asked for less. Though new tweed trousers are $200 and up (doesn't help the pound sterling worth more than in the Summer).


----------



## SpicyP

Semper Jeep said:


> @SpicyP - That looks pretty great and it sounds like it was a good value.
> 
> Your picture reminds me of a very thick, very soft, double breasted jacket I have that looks like a brown herringbone tweed but _feels_ much closer to flannel.


Thanks! Its definitely not as thick as your jacket lol
I think this one is a typical herringbone tweed. maybe slightly thicker than the one that Uniqlo is currently selling.

After looking at your tweed jacket, I now feel like I want a thicker one too!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 36156


Lovely coat! 👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Lovely coat! 👍


That's pretty close to my holy grail of a casual overcoat - bold grey herringbone wool, simple clean lines, raglan sleeves, true overcoat length and not cut so big as to look like a bathrobe on my narrow frame.

I own a couple that are close, but none that are perfect. I'd buy that coat in a minute if I could find it.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## eagle2250

^^
Other than for hunting, I am not a fan of blaze orange outerwear, but the layer beneath the offending outer garment is a decidedly handsome Tweed jacket!


----------



## Fading Fast

I'll stay with overcoats for a hundred:


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> Other than for hunting, I am not a fan of blaze orange outerwear, but the layer beneath the offending outer garment is a decidedly handsome Tweed jacket!


You're right! insufficiently orange! Here we go! :happy:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I'll stay with overcoats for a hundred:
> View attachment 36192


He needs to wear more grey!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> He needs to wear more grey!


I know you don't, but I like his look. I've sported the all-gray look myself.

To be sure, not everyday, but a thoughtful monochromatic outfit now and then does the trick.

The flip is the advice that every 50+-year-old woman on TV is given, which is to wear a bold splash of color around your neck, so half of them don loud multi-colored scarves. Once you are aware of it, you'll notice how many of them do it. It looks ridiculous, but for some reason, it seems to be the professional consultants "go-to" advice.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I know you don't, but I like his look. I've sported the all-gray look myself.


Were I to do so, I'd look like a giant piece of lint from the top of my grey head, down to my shoes!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Were I to do so, I'd look like a giant piece of lint, from the top of my grey head, down to my shoes!


Who knows, as the salt-to-pepper ratio of my hair increases, maybe I do too.


----------



## never behind

Flanderian said:


> You're right! insufficiently orange! Here we go! :happy:
> 
> View attachment 36193


My eyes hurt just looking at that coat.


----------



## Semper Jeep

never behind said:


> My eyes hurt just looking at that coat.


I hope we're not in the same neck of the woods today. I'm wearing this Norwegian Rain M65 so I'd hate to be the cause of your discomfort if we crossed paths!


----------



## Fading Fast

Semper Jeep said:


> I hope we're not in the same neck of the woods today. I'm wearing this Norwegian Rain M65 so I'd hate to be the cause of your discomfort if we crossed paths!
> 
> View attachment 36198


Great example of how different garments are appropriate in different colors. A traditional overcoat, IMO, does not take orange well. However, a classic rain/outdoor "sport" type garment like yours looks fine to my eye in orange. I own something similar in yellow and, also, in green (orange doesn't work well with my coloring), but I would never own a traditional overcoat in yellow or strong green (loden, yes).


----------



## Flanderian

never behind said:


> My eyes hurt just looking at that coat.





Fading Fast said:


> Great example of how different garments are appropriate in different colors. A traditional overcoat, IMO, does not take orange well. However, a classic rain/outdoor "sport" type garment like yours looks fine to my eye in orange. I own something similar in yellow and, also, in green (orange doesn't work well with my coloring), but I would never own a traditional overcoat in yellow or strong green (loden, yes).


Ciao, amici! :beer:

Were we looking at anything other than Casentino cloth, I would wholeheartedly agree! But this venerable Tuscan cloth of county gentlemen can trace its history back to 13th Century monks who after liberally enjoying the libations they produced, thought dyeing the cloth bright orange would be a real hoot! :beers:

And eight centuries later this cloth still survives for its distinctive rustic looks, and practical uses. Warm, rugged and water resistant, I maintain its color also aids in finding avalanche victims. 

https://www.casentinolane.it/en/production-casentino-cloth-panno/
https://www.visittuscany.com/en/crafts/casentino-cloth/


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Ciao, amici! :beer:
> 
> Were we looking at anything other than Casentino cloth, I would wholeheartedly agree! But this venerable Tuscan cloth of county gentlemen can trace its history back to 13th Century monks who after liberally enjoying the libations they produced, thought dyeing the cloth bright orange would be a real hoot! :beers:
> 
> And eight centuries later this cloth still survives for its distinctive rustic looks, and practical uses. Warm, rugged and water resistant, I maintain its color also aids in finding avalanche victims.
> 
> https://www.casentinolane.it/en/production-casentino-cloth-panno/
> https://www.visittuscany.com/en/crafts/casentino-cloth/


I love the history and appreciate the logic and argument, but I'm still not wearing an orange overcoat .


----------



## Fading Fast

Might be a dupe of an early pic - if so, my apologies. I do love the suit. I'd have gone with not-peak lapels, but still, the material is gorgeous and I'd buy it OTR even with the peak lapels if I could.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 36210
> 
> Might be a dupe of an early pic - if so, my apologies. I do love the suit. I'd have gone with not-peak lapels, but still, the material is gorgeous and I'd buy it OTR even with the peak lapels if I could.


Ciao, says Luca!

But aided by Rubinacci's skilled tailors, Luca is that rare man who can wear almost anything and make it look good.

I might manage a peak lapel,, but I'd dial back all the nods here to current fashion and have one far less grandiloquent.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 36211


The man's got no neck and his fedora is too large (LOL), but that is one incredible Tweed suit!


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> I might manage a peak lapel,, but I'd dial back all the nods here to current fashion and have one far less grandiloquent.


The very large herringbone pattern makes the peak lapels appear that much more pronounced, and not in a good way, IMO.


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> The very large herringbone pattern makes the peak lapels appear that much more pronounced, and not in a good way, IMO.


Agreed! Plus they are very pronounced! The traditional SB peak lapel (If there is such a thing as a traditional SB peak lapel suit/jacket.) was made with a narrower and more discreet peak lapel than their DB peak lapel brethren. Why? Because they look better, better balance of proportions than if the peak lapel is cut just like the DB's.

The SB peak lapel was not originally in my tailor's repertoire, and the first one he made for me was a little clumsy. The second was spot on, and he was gracious enough to thank me for encouraging him to learn the technique. He learned his art in Rome in the '50's and '60's working for modest bespoke tailors, and he stuck pretty close to that original aesthetic which evidently did not entail the SB peak.


----------



## Fading Fast

The scale of the houndstooth is too much for my narrow frame and quiet personality, but for the right person - kaboom! Also, love the outfit - right down to the tab-collared shirt


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 36235
> 
> The scale of the houndstooth is too much for my narrow frame and quiet personality, but for the right person - kaboom! Also, love the outfit - right down to the tab-collared shirt


A bold tweed!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## StephenRG

Fading Fast said:


> The scale of the houndstooth is too much


"They were the teeth of a gigantic hound!"


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 36262


Simply gorgeous! 👍


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Simply gorgeous! 👍


The first one reminds me of McQueen's famous sport coat in "Bullitt."

A version (several now) of the third one has been in my wardrobe continuously since the '80s when I discovered traditional clothing.


----------



## Flanderian

https://tweedlandthegentlemansclub.blogspot.com/2019/10/thomas-farthing-40-museum-street-londen.html


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 36262


A rather grand range of Tweed options for the well dressed gentleman to choose from! Well done, my friend.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 36310


Lovely tweed and Fair Isle! 👍


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Lovely tweed and Fair Isle! 👍


I thought so too - love that it's a "quiet" Fair Isle. Based on the arms, the jacket looks too short.


----------



## Flanderian

Don't like my tweed!? Wanna make sumpin' of it!? irate:


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Don't like my tweed!? Wanna make sumpin' of it!? irate:
> 
> View attachment 36322


A gentleman, not to be trifled with for sure!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> A gentleman, not to be trifled with for sure!


Wow, I'd commit mayhem for a pair of flannel trousers of that quality & hue! irate:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 36326


A great tweed! :beer:


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 36326


There is nothing short of perfect in evaluatng any component of that rig....except perhaps the shirt collar. Great choice!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 36333


Grand tweed! :beer:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Grand tweed! :beer:


I'm thinking Old Sarge will like.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I'm thinking Old Sarge will like.


Where is he these days!? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Where is he these days!? :icon_scratch:


Like the recent great Flanderian disappearance, I believe he mentioned he was going on a (I think) 3 week vacation to Italy.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Like the recent great Flanderian disappearance, I believe he mentioned he was going on a (I think) 3 week vacation to Italy.


Lucky man! :beer:

But if he enjoys it too well, he might stay!!!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Lucky man! :beer:
> 
> But if he enjoys it too well, he might stay!!!


I could see us losing him to the vacation lifestyle.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Inspired by Flanderian's post:


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 36333


The jacket, vest and tie are rather magnificent, but the boutonnier looks a little cheesy....sort of like a wadded up kleenex. Loose the boutonnier and it will be perfect!


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Like the recent great Flanderian disappearance, I believe he mentioned he was going on a (I think) 3 week vacation to Italy.


 I thought he was going to eat his way through France for a few weeks? In any event, I'm pretty sure he is having a great time.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> I thought he was going to eat his way through France for a few weeks? In any event, I'm pretty sure he is having a great time.


I'll go with your memory over mine - either way, sounds like a fun vacation.


----------



## Fading Fast

I watched about an hour of *Bullitt* earlier this week. Since I have seen the movie a few times, I can come in and out of it as I please. [Editor's note: we connected Fading Fast to a lie detector, it continued beeping loudly until he finally admitted that he has probably seen the movie twenty-plus times in his sad, empty life.]

Three things stood out. One, despite this or that inaccuracy (I've read about the gear-shifting issue and the same cars showing up in the background repeatedly), it is still the best car-chase scene ever filmed. Two, Steve McQueen could have earned his nickname, the King of Cool, from this movie alone. And, three, to truly appreciate the perfectness of his outfit, you have to see it in the movie as still photos don't capture how beautifully the clothes drape on him or the subtle, but rich, nuances of the sport coat's and sweater's colors, textures and patterns.

I love black-and-white photography and cinematography. Heck, I'd probably move into a 1940s movie world if I could, but some clothes demand the richness of color. These are the two best photos I've found for highlighting his sport coat and sweater and, in the bottom pic, the chukkas. (For a movie filmed in color, there are a surprisingly small number of color pics and an equally surprisingly large number of black-and-white photos from it on-line.)
















Since this is a tweed thread, I'll focus on the sport coat. Saying it's a brown herringbone doesn't begin to do it justice. For our friends on the Trad side of the house (of which I am one), it has several (not every) Ivy details to swoon over: 3/2 sack, swelled edges and two-button cuffs, but what caught my attention this time was how rich the coat's colors are - how they change and play off each other in different lighting.

In outdoor scenes, the sport coat comes alive as the herringbone pattern flexes and moves while the different shades of brown take the jacket from all but dark brown in overcast shots, to, in sunny shots, a range from light to dark brown with an almost coruscating hint of a gold thread adding a surprising punch. In an outfit of all "solid" colored items - these texture and color variations prevent the outfit from feeling drab. Effectively, part of the sport coat's and outfit's beauty is the multiple hues of the same color that are revealed when worn.

Again, being a Tweed-focused thread, I'll speed past everything else, so will just mention that the blue turtleneck is not navy but probably two shade lighter, which allows it to play perfectly with the aforementioned variegated weave of the sport coat. The narrow-cut grey wool trousers don't stand out, but they aren't suppose to as the sport coat is the star and the turtleneck its main support with the snuff-suede brown chukkas adding that undefinable extra something that takes the outfit up another notch.

I'm just going to say it - I don't like the color brown for most clothes. Away from shoes, one would go broke hunting for brown items in my not-small wardrobe. But this most-recent viewing of *Bullitt* has me seriously considering a brown herringbone tweed sport coat, which, for purposes of this thread, has to be one of the most-famous Tweed garments in movie history.

And this, the entire rig even looks good in black and white:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 36370
> 
> I watched about an hour of *Bullitt* earlier this week. Since I have seen the movie a few times, I can come in and out of it as I please. [Editor's note: we connected Fading Fast to a lie detector, it continued beeping loudly until he finally admitted that he has probably seen the movie twenty-plus times in his sad, empty life.]
> 
> Three things stood out. One, despite this or that inaccuracy (I've read about the gear-shifting issue and the same cars showing up in the background repeatedly), it is still the best car-chase scene ever filmed. Two, Steve McQueen could have earned his nickname, the King of Cool, from this movie alone. And, three, to truly appreciate the perfectness of his outfit, you have to see it in the movie as still photos don't capture how beautifully the clothes drape on him or the subtle, but rich, nuances of the sport coat's and sweater's colors, textures and patterns.
> 
> I love black-and-white photography and cinematography. Heck, I'd probably move into a 1940s movie world if I could, but some clothes demand the richness of color. These are the two best photos I've found for highlighting his sport coat and sweater and, in the bottom pic, the chukkas. (For a movie filmed in color, there are a surprisingly small number of color pics and an equally surprisingly large number of black-and-white photos from it on-line.)
> View attachment 36365
> View attachment 36366
> 
> 
> Since this is a tweed thread, I'll focus on the sport coat. Saying it's a brown herringbone doesn't begin to do it justice. For our friends on the Trad side of the house (of which I am one), it has several (not every) Ivy details to swoon over: 3/2 sack, swelled edges and two-button cuffs, but what caught my attention this time was how rich the coat's colors are - how they change and play off each other in different lighting.
> 
> In outdoor scenes, the sport coat comes alive as the herringbone pattern flexes and moves while the different shades of brown take the jacket from all but dark brown in overcast shots, to, in sunny shots, a range from light to dark brown with an almost coruscating hint of a gold thread adding a surprising punch. In an outfit of all "solid" colored items - these texture and color variations prevent the outfit from feeling drab. Effectively, part of the sport coat's and outfit's beauty is the multiple hues of the same color that are revealed when worn.
> 
> Again, being a Tweed-focused thread, I'll speed past everything else, so will just mention that the blue turtleneck is not navy but probably two shade lighter, which allows it to play perfectly with the aforementioned variegated weave of the sport coat. The narrow-cut grey wool trousers don't stand out, but they aren't suppose to as the sport coat is the star and the turtleneck its main support with the snuff-suede brown chukkas adding that undefinable extra something that takes the outfit up another notch.
> 
> I'm just going to say it - I don't like the color brown for most clothes. Away from shoes, one would go broke hunting for brown items in my not-small wardrobe. But this most-recent viewing of *Bullitt* has me seriously considering a brown herringbone tweed sport coat, which, for purposes of this thread, has to be one of the most-famous Tweed garments in movie history.
> 
> And this, the entire rig even looks good in black and white:
> View attachment 36368


Great post!

Should send the turtleneck doubters scurrying!


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> You're right! insufficiently orange! Here we go! :happy:
> 
> View attachment 36193


Regrettably that coat is no longer offered with the fur collar. Pity.


----------



## Oldsarge

And yes, it was three weeks in France. Astoundingly, I only gained four pounds despite four course meals for lunch and dinner every day. This was possibly the most fun of any river cruise I have taken, due in large part to the totally jolly set of passengers. And I am having three cases of wine shipped home, too. I shall have to drink out some more space in my cellar.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> And yes, it was three weeks in France. Astoundingly, I only gained four pounds despite four course meals for lunch and dinner every day. This was possibly the most fun of any river cruise I have taken, due in large part to the totally jolly set of passengers. And I am having three cases of wine shipped home, too. I shall have to drink out some more space in my cellar.


Other than getting the country wrong (Flanderian was on top of that), I thought you were on a long vaykay.

Glad you had such a good time and sent home some "beverages" to remember it by.

Any clothes shopping as well?


----------



## Oldsarge

Only a couple of polos and some bright colored socks. My clothing tastes are decidedly more British than French.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast

And a bonus one for a just-back-from-France Old Sarge:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> And a bonus one for a just-back-from-France Old Sarge:
> View attachment 36394


*YOWZER!!! :happy:








*


----------



## Fading Fast

I would look for a bit more contrast between the jeans and sport coat (and I'd get rid of the pocket square altogether), but perhaps it's just this particular pic as I could see those jeans and sport coat working depending on the actual shading/tone of each, etc. Love those shoes, both in general and for the outfit.


----------



## xcubbies

Fading Fast said:


> I would look for a bit more contrast between the jeans and sport coat (and I'd get rid of the pocket square altogether), but perhaps it's just this particular pic as I could see those jeans and sport coat working depending on the actual shading/tone of each, etc. Love those shoes, both in general and for the outfit.
> 
> View attachment 36425


Going commando?


----------



## Oldsarge

Definitely need more contrast. If the coat was more grey and the sweater was blue, I'd wear its


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Nice looking tweed - classic. Perfect tie choice.

⇩ Over in the "Cool Illustration from the '50s..." thread we've been talking about (and showing examples of) non-matching vests. I don't think this one works great, but it is a good example of how much it changes the feel of the outfit.


----------



## Oldsarge

Isn't it, though?

I agree that this particular non-matching vest is ill-chosen. Fond as I am of tattersall, this one is entirely too bright for the tweed. A little contrast can go a long way.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ That coat looks right out of your "Esquire" posts from the '30s.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ That coat looks right out of your "Esquire" posts from the '30s.


A definite aesthetic kiinship! And a beauty for the right man, which the wearer most certainly is!



Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 36495


Beautiful tweed coat! Why don't you get one and wear it with an ascot to Sunday brunch. Sure to set the Manhattan minimalists all atwitter! :devil:


----------



## Flanderian

Tradly tweedy! 👍


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> A definite aesthetic kiinship! And a beauty for the right man, which the wearer most certainly is!
> ...


Definitely works for him. I love his entire B&W-themed outfit - it is perfect for that coat.



Flanderian said:


> ...Beautiful tweed coat! Why don't you get one and wear it with an ascot to Sunday brunch. Sure to set the Manhattan minimalists all atwitter! :devil:


It is stunning, even though we are all getting used to it by now, how other than at some (not all) of the tippy top places, no one dresses for brunch anymore. Even the fancy hotels allow people to come in shorts and t-shirts (or colder-weather equivalent). You'll see some older people and a family here and there dressed up, but in general, attire is very casual even in the nicest places.

My "uniform" of chinos, an OCBD, wool sweater and sport coat makes me one of the nicest dressed at almost any place now. I can remember when, even into the early '90s, that same outfit would have been on the casual side of dress at most nice to very nice establishments.

I do occasionally wear a classic sport coat with a turtleneck - which used to be causal attire - and am regularly asked why I am so dressed up. I can't even imagine the comments I'd get if I wore that hunting jacket.



Flanderian said:


> Tradly tweedy! 👍
> 
> View attachment 36496


Use to have that exact tie and still have that exact sport coat and shirt.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> It is stunning, even though we are all getting used to it by now, how other than at some (not all) of the tippy top places, no one dresses for brunch anymore.* Even the fancy hotels allow people to come in shorts and t-shirts (or colder-weather equivalent).*  You'll see some older people and a family here and there dressed up, but in general, attire is very casual even in the nicest places.
> 
> My "uniform" of chinos, an OCBD, wool sweater and sport coat makes me one of the nicest dressed at almost any place now. I can remember when, even into the early '90s, that same outfit would have been on the casual side of dress at most nice to very nice establishments.
> 
> I do occasionally wear a classic sport coat with a turtleneck - which used to be causal attire - and am regularly asked why I am so dressed up. I can't even imagine the comments I'd get if I wore that hunting jacket.


*A Christmas Carol*

Fezziwig to Jorkin - "It's to preserve a way of life that one knew and loved." "Mr. Jorkin. I'll have to be loyal to the old ways and die out with them if needs must."



Fading Fast said:


> Use to have that exact tie and still have that exact sport coat and shirt.


Royal Fusiliers?


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> ...Royal Fusiliers?


I am a member of the Royal Kids From an Average Town in NJ who bought the tie at BB probably in the '80s and probably before I even knew those type of ties represent military units, schools, clubs etc.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> *A Christmas Carol*
> 
> Fezziwig to Jorkin - "It's to preserve a way of life that one knew and loved." "Mr. Jorkin. I'll have to be loyal to the old ways and die out with them if needs must."...


I sincerely respect that view, but at 55, I am just trying to balance some of that view with not looking completely out of step. Not only for my personal life, but professionally, it's important to strike a balance as too tied-to-the-old-ways effects how people perceive your professional abilities.


----------



## Semper Jeep

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 36487


I have a sportcoat in color and scale of pattern roughly the same as that overcoat. I bought it on a whim but have only worn it sparingly as I've always had a hard time pairing it (mine me be a bit more black than the one pictured which appears to have a bit of brown in it, at least on my screen). Any tips from you more knowledgeable folks on what color trousers to pair a sportcoat like that with?


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I sincerely respect that view, but at 55, I am just trying to balance some of that view with not looking completely out of step. Not only for my personal life, but professionally, it's important to strike a balance as too tied-to-the-old-ways effects how people perceive your professional abilities.


I think that's the right thing to do. It's easy for me to offer opinions as a retiree that're more difficult for those who aren't to pursue due to professional considerations. Particularly, as I understand your profession, you're selling trust, and you are your own brand, so dressing for that role is vital. Your social and professional life likely overlap to a significant degree.

:beer:


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> I think that's the right thing to do. It's easy for me to offer opinions as a retiree that're more difficult for those who aren't to pursue due to professional considerations. Particularly, as I understand your profession, you're selling trust, and you are your own brand, so dressing for that role is vital. Your social and professional life likely overlap to a significant degree.
> 
> :beer:


Well said.

It was easy when I started as the "Wall St." suit construct was the established standard and we all just tried to execute on it. Now, there's no standard and you have to "feel" your way through each situation, company, client, etc.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

^^
If I were to find one of those jackets, I fear all semblance of reason would go out the window and I would buy it...even though I'd only get to wear it perhaps once per year! Though I could put it on and turn the A/C on, setting the temp real low? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Oldsarge

Having already commissioned my autumnal sport coat, I am, so far, safe. It even resembles this one, somewhat. But the temptation, oh, the temptation . . .


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 36561


Love the Tweed, but that cardigan vest is one of the few that has no appeal to me. I would ditch the knitwear, the French blue shirt and possibly the navy pindot tie and replace with a white shirt and a forest green emblematic tie. Now there's the ticket!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

Just superb!


----------



## Oldsarge

And this is rather nice, too.


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ That coat is quiet, but it makes a statement of quality when it enters a room.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 36629
> 
> 
> And this is rather nice, too.


Very nice, indeed!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## RogerP

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 36629
> 
> 
> And this is rather nice, too.


Do. Want. This.


----------



## Fading Fast

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 36658


I give Ralph and his team a lot of credit as this looks great, but it is not something I'd ever have thought to put together.

Ralph: "Hey, how 'bout a brown tweed houndstooth sport coat (with a rust overlay stripe) with brown corduroys and a charcoal crewneck wool sweater?

Me: "That would never look good, pleeeease."

He shows it to me in the photo above.

Me: "Hmm, well, I guess that's why you own a massively successful clothing company and I don't."


----------



## Oldsarge

I don't know if this is Ralph's, if it's tweed or what but it knocks my socks off.


----------



## Fading Fast

A bit of an odd one for your Sunday viewing pleasure


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> A bit of an odd one for your Sunday viewing pleasure
> View attachment 36676


Odd, but intriguing! Looks a bit as if it can't make up its mind whether it wants to be a pea coat or sport jacket. :icon_scratch:

Note cotton drill lining, a feature to add a Mil-Spec flavor, but much shunned by yours truly for needlessly making garments much harder to get in and out of. Such pastisches tend to either look quite nice, or very bad. Would be very curious to see it worn.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsport

He does have quite the vision, does he not?


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Odd, but intriguing! Looks a bit as if it can't make up its mind whether it wants to be a pea coat or sport jacket. :icon_scratch:
> 
> Note cotton drill lining, a feature to add a Mil-Spec flavor, but much shunned by yours truly for needlessly making garments much harder to get in and out of. Such pastisches tend to either look quite nice, or very bad. Would be very curious to see it worn.


As you note, it can look cool, but the day-to-day arm wrestling needed to get in and, worse, out, wears on the coolness.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> A bit of an odd one for your Sunday viewing pleasure
> View attachment 36676


An unususl design, for sure. It looks a bit like a unisex garment, intended for wear by a man or a women and to be buttoned left to right or right to left, respectively.


----------



## Oldsarge

Or alternatively by one who chooses to be either/neither? Sorry, I went to a power-lifting meet this morning and watching the gender bending, attractive young ladies squat over 300 lbs. left me thoroughly impressed.


----------



## Fading Fast

From the world of distaff tweed:


----------



## Oldsarge

Drool, slobber, lech . . .


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> From the world of distaff tweed:
> View attachment 36714


Rather nice tweed!


----------



## David J. Cooper

__
http://instagr.am/p/B5A9dUbhUv3/


----------



## Flanderian

David J. Cooper said:


> __
> http://instagr.am/p/B5A9dUbhUv3/


Very nice tweed, and I love the rust moleskin(?) trousers with it!

Awfully nice Fair Isle too! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Would a gentleman wear a *teal* tweed suit!? One with DB waistcoat and gauntlet cuffs!? :icon_scratch:
You bet your bippy he would!!! :happy:

https://scotmeachamwoodhome.tumblr.com/image/188948760988


----------



## David J. Cooper

Flanderian said:


> Very nice tweed, and I love the rust moleskin(?) trousers with it!
> 
> Awfully nice Fair Isle too! 👍


Thanks so much. The pants are Cinnamon Cords from Cordings. The sweater is a BB outlet merino wool sleeveless.


----------



## Flanderian

David J. Cooper said:


> Thanks so much. The pants are Cinnamon Cords from Cordings. The sweater is a BB outlet merino wool sleeveless.


Ah, my old eyes fail me, couldn't tell whether they were corduroy or moleskin. Very handsome and stylish trousers, IMO!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## David J. Cooper

The last couple of models, excluding me seem like they haven’t eaten in years.


----------



## Fading Fast

David J. Cooper said:


> The last couple of models, excluding me seem like they haven't eaten in years.


That is because most models don't eat (only somewhat kidding).

Living in NYC, I've known several male and female models - they work very hard to maintain a very low weight for their frames.

When I was in my twenties, I was approached a few times by agents and looked into modeling once.

They approached me, in part, because my 6'1" 150lbs frame was one of the body type they look for. Since, most 6'1" men weigh more, many fight to keep their weight preternaturally low.

The same craziness goes on for female models. They really are under intense pressure to keep their weight very low.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 36759


While there are many beautiful pieces being worn, I find the whole sadly less that its parts due to the incorporation of a couple of my pet hates/dislikes. Least of the two is the tweed-on-tweed pairing of the vest and jackets. Tweeds can be paired and look marvelous, but it's a dark art, and these two are simply incongruous, each distracting from the essential goodness of the other.

More seriously, I *detest* the lame currently fashionable attempt at added sprez by leaving multiple buttons undone on a properly tailored waistcoat. It destroys the beautiful line inherent in a properly cut and fitted waistcoat, and just makes the wearer look both naif and sloppy.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> While there are many beautiful pieces being worn, I find the whole sadly less that its parts due to the incorporation of a couple of my pet hates/dislikes. Least of the two is the tweed-on-tweed pairing of the vest and jackets. Tweeds can be paired and look marvelous, but it's a dark art, and these two are simply incongruous, each distracting for the essential goodness of the other.
> 
> More seriously, I *detest* the lame currently fashionable attempt at added sprez by leaving multiple buttons undone on a properly tailored waistcoat. It destroys the beautiful line inherent in a properly cut and fitted waistcoat, and just makes the wearer look both naif and sloppy.


Agree completely - the parts are much better than the whole. And, yes, enough already with the button-bingo nonsense.


----------



## Flanderian

A rare example of tweed-on-tweed in which I find them compatible and enhancing -


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Agree completely - the parts are much better than the whole. And, yes, enough already with the button-bingo nonsense.


And it's sad too, because individually each is so handsome. Love that tie!


----------



## Flanderian

David J. Cooper said:


> The last couple of models, excluding me seem like they haven't eaten in years.





Fading Fast said:


> That is because most models don't eat (only somewhat kidding).
> 
> Living in NYC, I've known several male and female models - they work very hard to maintain a very low weight for their frames.
> 
> When I was in my twenties, I was approached a few times by agents and looked into modeling once.
> 
> They approached me, in part, because my 6'1" 150lbs frame was one of the body type they look for. Since, most 6'1" men weigh more, many fight to keep their weight preternaturally low.
> 
> The same craziness goes on for female models. They really are under intense pressure to keep their weight very low.


 -


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Mr. Moneypenney

Oldsarge said:


> Drool, slobber, lech . . .


 But how much can she bench?


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

Classic Hollywood knew how to dress and wear tweed.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

All very nice!



Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 36769





Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 36778


He's wearing my collar!



Fading Fast said:


> Classic Hollywood knew how to dress and wear tweed.
> View attachment 36790





Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 36799
> 
> 
> View attachment 36800
> 
> 
> View attachment 36801


----------



## Flanderian

The Guardian of The Gauntlet Cuff -










As discreetly featured in Charles' magnificent teal homespun tweed with a shawl collared waistcoat. A sartorial tour-de-force deserving of a perfect 10! Delighted to see a mature gentleman able to so enjoy his attire! How much would one give for a day with his valet!?

https://scotmeachamwoodhome.tumblr.com/image/188948760988


----------



## Oldsarge

I suspect his valet makes more than I do . . .


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 36799
> 
> 
> View attachment 36800
> 
> 
> View attachment 36801


The tweeds are all beautiful. I even like the little crest on the knit glove.

His glen plaid is how I like glen plaid - muted in a tone on tone. The pattern has enough oomph that, for me, playing down the color contrast is a good balance.


----------



## Fading Fast

Since we seem to be doing tweeds on women for the moment, I like that they kept everything around it simple so that the pattern in the jacket didn't fight anything else.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Classic Hollywood knew how to dress and wear tweed.
> View attachment 36790


Why it's Brigadier General Jimmy Steward......"Bomber pilot" and one of my hero's! Clearly he wears the Tweed, as well as he did his flight suit.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Why it's Brigadier General Jimmy Steward......"Bomber pilot" and one of my hero's! Clearly he wears the Tweed, as well as he did his flight suit.


I'm glad you commented as there seemed to be little interest in his, IMO, beautiful tweed suit.

Here's one from later in his career from the movie "Anatomy of a Murder:"















That, IMO, is how a sack suit should fit.


----------



## Flanderian

A Ralph ad, I believe.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 36862
> 
> 
> A Ralph ad, I believe.


It is and, other than the forced collar bar on a button-down collar, it's pretty spectacular. Love the Fair Isle and watch in addition to the tweed.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 36896


That overcoat is stunning...great color to boot!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 36896





eagle2250 said:


> That overcoat is stunning...great color to boot!


+1!

Wonderful coat.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Mr. Moneypenney

Fading Fast said:


> I'm glad you commented as there seemed to be little interest in his, IMO, beautiful tweed suit.
> 
> Here's one from later in his career from the movie "Anatomy of a Murder:"
> View attachment 36841
> View attachment 36842
> 
> That, IMO, is how a sack suit should fit.


No tweed for Gazzara.

I don't recall a whole lotta tweed in Roadhouse either.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 36925


Nice tweed! 👍

But I hope that waist suppression is just pinning!


----------



## Flanderian

G. the Bruce! 
Il Maestro struttin' it! irate:

Is it tweed? I think it's a very small herringbone.


----------



## Oldsarge

I was going to put that in the Old School Gentleman thread. LOL


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> I was going to put that in the Old School Gentleman thread. LOL


Yup, home run for G. the Bruce!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast

The caption said "1950s Overcoat." What's neat is seeing how different the material looks up-close versus at a distance. As a fan of old movies, I've seen a lot of coats like this in movies from he '30s-'50s.


----------



## ran23

snow in a few days, maybe then.


----------



## Oldsarge

If it starts threatening snow in the Willamette I'll be shopping REI!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

If it's cold enough for an overcoat like that, his ears are going to freeze!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 37177


Aye! Now that's my kind of tweed though I think I would opt for a different tie!


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Aye! Now that's my kind of tweed though I think I would opt for a different tie!


I agree with both comments.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> I agree with both comments.


As do I.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Nice but a bit restrained for my taste. Doubtless others will disagree.


----------



## Fading Fast

And some Holiday fun ones:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 37221


*YOWZER!!!
:beer:*


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

the pumpkin is amusing.


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 37226


Oh yes.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> *YOWZER!!!
> :beer:*


Agreed, especially since I assume there are matching pants as well.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ In addition to the coat, that is quite an impressive looking piece of luggage she's carrying. And she, herself, has a Sophia Loren echo.


----------



## Oldsarge

And I'd like to see more of the car she stands in front of. Looks Jaguar to me.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> And I'd like to see more of the car she stands in front of. Looks Jaguar to me.


Good catch, they didn't miss a trick.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> Good catch, they didn't miss a trick.


Yeah, hit nearly every one of our hot buttons.


----------



## Fading Fast

And some Tweeds from one of my favorite movies, based on one of my favorite books, "Remains of the Day."


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> And some Tweeds from one of my favorite movies, based on one of my favorite books, "Remains of the Day."
> View attachment 37264
> View attachment 37263
> View attachment 37265
> View attachment 37267
> View attachment 37266


Wonderful clothing and period verisimilitude!

And equally fine film. 👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Winhes2

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 37226


Is that just a really long pointed point collar or is it a semi-cutaway with really long points? Are there straps about 3" back from the front pulling it close to center?


----------



## Flanderian

Winhes2 said:


> Is that just a really long pointed point collar or is it a semi-cutaway with really long points? Are there straps about 3" back from the front pulling it close to center?


Looks to me a like a full spread collar with points somewhere between 2 1/2" & 3" long.

I'm sorry, I don't understand your second question. :icon_scratch:


----------



## Winhes2

Flanderian said:


> Looks to me a like a full spread collar with points somewhere between 2 1/2" & 3" long.
> 
> I'm sorry, I don't understand your second question. :icon_scratch:


I was wondering how he got the points to stay folded down within the jacket lapels. It could be a posed photo and they would pop out after movement but a little ways back from the front the one on the left looks looks like there may be something pulling it toward the neck. There is a fold on that left collar and there might be one on the right collar too. Wondering whether they build something into the collar to keep those points from moving out over the lapels.


----------



## Flanderian

Winhes2 said:


> I was wondering how he got the points to stay folded down within the jacket lapels. It could be a posed photo and they would pop out after movement but a little ways back from the front the one on the left looks looks like there may be something pulling it toward the neck. There is a fold on that left collar and there might be one on the right collar too. Wondering whether they build something into the collar to keep those points from moving out over the lapels.


Sorry, I don't see what you're seeing. :icon_scratch:

When I've worn spread collar shirts with points long enough to extend to, or beyond the lapels' inner edges, mine have lain and looked pretty much the same. And the collar was simply properly ironed, then buttoned and which had stays.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 37339


Beautiful!

Very much my taste.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ That is a coat.


----------



## Fading Fast

I could see Flanderian wearing this lock, stock and barrel as it has a very Tweed meets Vintage Esquire elegance.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 37376
> 
> I could see Flanderian wearing this lock, stock and barrel as it has a very Tweed meets Vintage Esquire elegance.


Thank you kind sir! (Someone's removed the embarrassed face emoticon! :icon_scratch

Indeed, the tweed is a drop-dead gorgeous example of true traditional tweed. But before I read your kindness, being a PIA, I began to get niggles of discontent, while simultaneously being annoyed with myself for having them!

I will not wear jackets with shoulder top gorges, or waist suppression/button placement that would transect my chest! Or a breast pocket that positions the PS over my left clavicle. The concomitantly high neckline of the vest would serve as choker on me. Too much tie space, the collar is too stiff looking,, the knot too large, and the tie's pattern competes a bit too much with the shirt's. And would someone please teach this boy how to dimple his tie!

I'm simultaneously relieved, but embarrassed, to have gotten that off my chest. Too fussy, but that's me.

Edit: By way of example of my preferences for cut and fit, your photo in #2,202 is just about perfect, and all else as well!

:happy:


----------



## Peak and Pine

Since Flanderian has turned this down (and since PIA is a mysyery though I looked in Wiktionary and pray it's not #3), I would like to take up the slack and climb right into this outfit as-is: lock, stock, collar pin and necktie knot. I would lose the jarring pocket square, otherwise, dress me up and push me out the door.


----------



## Oldsarge

Do enjoy your new suit, sir. My taste, on the other hand, parallels Flanderian's in this matter. That vest, shirt and tie would never fit in my closet.


----------



## Winhes2

Flanderian said:


> Sorry, I don't see what you're seeing. :icon_scratch:
> 
> When I've worn spread collar shirts with points long enough to extend to, or beyond the lapels' inner edges, mine have lain and looked pretty much the same. And the collar was simply properly ironed, then buttoned and which had stays.


Gotcha. I hadn't seen the buttons. If that is a button down collar, I understand how the points stay in place inside the lapels and the collar has that nice rounded curve.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Do enjoy your new suit, sir. My taste, on the other hand, parallels Flanderian's in this matter. That vest, shirt and tie would never fit in my closet.


Is this a member's suit? I know it's not FF pictured. If I've given offense, the critique was simply a product of what should be construed as idiosyncratic personal taste intended as instructive criticism. The wearer of this rig is still better dressed than 99.9% of the American male populace.

I'm oddly most troubled by the size of the knot and lack of dimple. Just those remedied would bring everything into sharper focus, irrespective of my other cavils.



Winhes2 said:


> Gotcha. I hadn't seen the buttons. If that is a button down collar, I understand how the points stay in place inside the lapels and the collar has that nice rounded curve.


Looks like a medium point, medium spread collar, pinned. The focus of my criticism is that the whole mass of collar, knot and tie is out of proportion with the amount of space afforded by the triangle above the vest. It's a period look, and requires attention to period proportion, IMHO.


----------



## Flanderian

*TWEED LIKE 'YA MEAN IT!!! irate:








*


----------



## momsdoc

Flanderian said:


> Thank you kind sir! (Someone's removed the embarrassed face emoticon! :icon_scratch
> 
> Indeed, the tweed is a drop-dead gorgeous example of true traditional tweed. But before I read your kindness, being a PIA, I began to get niggles of discontent, while simultaneously being annoyed with myself for having them!
> 
> I will not wear jackets with shoulder top gorges, or waist suppression/button placement that would transect my chest! Or a breast pocket that positions the PS over my left clavicle. The concomitantly high neckline of the vest would serve as choker on me. Too much tie space, the collar is too stiff looking,, the knot too large, and the tie's pattern competes a bit too much with the shirt's. And would someone please teach this boy how to dimple his tie!
> 
> I'm simultaneously relieved, but embarrassed, to have gotten that off my chest. Too fussy, but that's me.
> 
> Edit: By way of example of my preferences for cut and fit, your photo in #2,202 is just about perfect, and all else as well!
> 
> :happy:


Jeeze Flandarian!

You scared the Bejeezus out of me. I had to quickly check my own Thomas Farthing suit and sports coat. Thankfully the one shown in FF's post is not cut like mine. Though the waistcoat does indeed button higher than usually seen, it is not to the extreme of the brown suit above. I knew it was a retro look when I bought it, but liked the look. The Brown tweed's vest in FF's post Is beyond my taste to appreciate.

That suit has been a staple of their's for at least three seasons now. While I like the tweed, and the cut of the jacket and have whimsied about purchasing one, it always struck me as a bit too costumey. I have thought that waist coat was way too high, and that the high gorge might just be an illusion from the photo angle. Never did I notice the height of the breast pocket. Phew, I dodged a bullet. I will pay more attention to that detail from now on. It never occurred to me that a breast pocket's placement would vary.


----------



## Flanderian

momsdoc said:


> Jeeze Flandarian!
> 
> You scared the Bejeezus out of me. I had to quickly check my own Thomas Farthing suit and sports coat. Thankfully the one shown in FF's post is not cut like mine. I have always thought that waist coat was way too high, and that the high gorge might just be an illusion from the photo angle. Never did I notice the height of the breast pocket. Phew, I dodged a bullet. I will pay more attention to that detail from now on. It never occurred tome that a breast pocket's placement would vary.
> 
> View attachment 37398
> View attachment 37399


Both very nice, indeed! 👍

Particularly envious of the that lovely hounds tooth. :amazing:


----------



## momsdoc

Flanderian said:


> Both very nice, indeed! 👍
> 
> Particularly envious of the that lovely hounds tooth. :amazing:


I just love hounds tooth, and think this is a particularly good rendition of it. The wide lapels are another aspect that set it apart from the ordinary. Not everyone's cup of tea, but I keep checking their site to see if they bring out another sports coat or suit with a similar lapel. It makes the sports coat stand out from the crowd, IMO in a good way. I am fortunate that even though it is memorable, my rotation is such that no jacket gets more than a few wearing per season.


----------



## Winhes2

Flanderian said:


> Is this a member's suit? I know it's not FF pictured. If I've given offense, the critique was simply a product of what should be construed as idiosyncratic personal taste intended as instructive criticism. The wearer of this rig is still better dressed than 99.9% of the American male populace.
> 
> I'm oddly most troubled by the size of the knot and lack of dimple. Just those remedied would bring everything into sharper focus, irrespective of my other cavils.
> 
> Looks like a medium point, medium spread collar, pinned. The focus of my criticism is that the whole mass of collar, knot and tie is out of proportion with the amount of space afforded by the triangle above the vest. It's a period look, and requires attention to period proportion, IMHO.


Agreed. That collar and tie are a big luxurious look and the suit, even with the wide lapels, looks trim. Might be the shoulder seams being in from the shoulder like that and possibly the model's narrow midsection contribute to the problem you've mentioned.


----------



## momsdoc

I’ve seen that model in TF shirt pics. He’s tall and as skinny as a beanpole. Imagine an anorexic version of a young Jimmy Stewart.

TF jackets, but not their trousers or waistcoats are cut trim. It’s a good thing they’re all sold as seperates. I order my usual size trousers and vests, but size up one full size on their jackets to accommodate a waistcoat or sweater. This was discovered by trial and error. They are generous in their exchange policy, covering the shipping, at least the first couple of times when you complain that their cut is not what was expected. I dont know if that would continue once you’ve had enough experience to dial in their sizing.


----------



## Oldsarge

This is an odd look, methinks, but it is tweed . . .


----------



## ItalianStyle

Gentlemen,
I have this sports jacket that I always thought of as a tweed jacket, but after seeing the fine specimens in this thread I'm in doubt...

I took a photo showing the sleeve. Would this qualify as tweed? Donegal tweed perhaps?


----------



## Oldsarge

My guess is 'probably' but I'm not going to commit to more than that.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

momsdoc said:


> I just love hounds tooth, and think this is a particularly good rendition of it. The wide lapels are another aspect that set it apart from the ordinary. Not everyone's cup of tea, but I keep checking their site to see if they bring out another sports coat or suit with a similar lapel. It makes the sports coat stand out from the crowd, IMO in a good way. I am fortunate that even though it is memorable, my rotation is such that no jacket gets more than a few wearing per season.


Not that it's a concern, but the wider lapels are even in concert with most contemporary fashion. The Brits and Americans, and those who wish to imitate them, are mainly the last holdouts of the skinny lapel, with the rest of world either never adopting it, or having moved on many moons ago. Perhaps this British clothier is testing the waters.

What *is* significant is that I think it's especially flattering for you, very dapper. Perhaps even a bit DoW'ish! 



ItalianStyle said:


> Gentlemen,
> I have this sports jacket that I always thought of as a tweed jacket, but after seeing the fine specimens in this thread I'm in doubt...
> 
> I took a photo showing the sleeve. Would this qualify as tweed? Donegal tweed perhaps?
> 
> View attachment 37426


It certainly looks like a Donegal style tweed to me, and a rather *nice* one!


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 37439


Lovely! 👍


----------



## momsdoc

Flanderian said:


> Not that it's a concern, but the wider lapels are even in concert with most contemporary fashion. The Brits and Americans, and those who wish to imitate them, are mainly the last holdouts of the skinny lapel, with the rest of world either never adopting it, or having moved on many moons ago. Perhaps this British clothier is testing the waters.
> 
> What *is* significant is that I think it's especially flattering for you, very dapper. Perhaps even a bit DoW'ish!
> 
> It certainly looks like a Donegal style tweed to me, and a rather *nice* one!


Oh oh. Don't tell me that now, with Medicare staring me down in a few years, that I'm finally stylish!


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> This is an odd look, methinks, but it is tweed . . .
> View attachment 37423


So, I step away from AAAC for almost a full day (in part to see what kind of a beat-down NY's football teams would get this Sunday - and wasn't disappointed, in particular seeing the Jets help the Bengals break a 13 game losing streak) and the best conversations, back-and-forth and pics we've had in this Tweed thread in awhile break out. I would be clicking "reply" to almost every post since my last one - so I'll just say - great insights and opinions, really enjoyed reading and seeing the posts.

As to this coat from Old Sarge - I have a weakness for big, bold herringbone patterns in thick tweed garments, so I'm all in. I have little in my life (NY football being one less thing), so I cling sadly to a disproportion love of tweed and herringbone.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 37469


My friend, you never fail to impress me with the heavy great coats that you find and share with us. Your posts quite literally remind me of and incite me to actually miss the cold weather!


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> My friend, you never fail to impress me with the heavy great coats that you find and share with us. Your posts quite literally remind me of and incite me to actually miss the cold weather!


Thank you very much. As I mentioned above, I love big, heavy tweed coats in bold herringbone patterns, so searching for them is fun for me. Also, I love seasons and get excited when each one starts up, in part, because it's fun to bring out that season's clothes - but I understand your reasons for being in FLA and respect why you made that sacrifice.

I think I've suggested this before, but maybe you and Mrs Eagle could take a cold weather vacation - a fall leaf tour, a winter train trip, etc.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 37469


A beautiful coat! 👍

Nicer, but quite similar to a HSM I purchased at Wallachs in '71. Overcoats in general, and serious ones in particular, were far more common then. Was a nice coat too! Upper middle quality thick tweed, well cut and sewn with a good satin lining. Almost makes me nostalgic for my rail and long walk commute that prompted its purchase in the first place. Would stop on the way back for an early dinner of a good roast beef sandwich and a draft Lowenbrau at the BCP. 😢


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 37439


Great tweed! 👍


----------



## Fading Fast

Proving good to my word (my passion, obsession and stupidity), I just bought this today at 40% off and with free shipping from Polo 








https://www.ralphlauren.com/men-clo...&start=1&cgid=men-clothing-sportcoats-blazers


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> A beautiful coat! 👍
> 
> Nicer, but quite similar to a HSM I purchased at Wallachs in '71. Overcoats in general, and serious ones in particular, were far more common then. Was a nice coat too! Upper middle quality thick tweed, well cut and sewn with a good satin lining. Almost makes me nostalgic for my rail and long walk commute that prompted its purchase in the first place. Would stop on the way back for an early dinner of a good roast beef sandwich and a draft Lowenbrau at the BCP. 😢


The early dinner sounds perfect.

For a few years, I commuted into NYC from an elevated train station in NJ where there was nothing to block the heavy winter morning winds - a heavy dress winter coat was not a nice to have, it was a need to have. I remember when I bought my first one from a BB-like discount store called Gorsart (I write about it too often as it was just that great a store) - classic charcoal grey wool herringbone - and it was like being wrapped in a windproof heavy blanket when fully buttoned. I had that coat (relined a few times) for close to thirty years.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Proving good to my word (my passion, obsession and stupidity), I just bought this today at 40% off and with free shipping from Polo
> View attachment 37474
> 
> https://www.ralphlauren.com/men-clo...&start=1&cgid=men-clothing-sportcoats-blazers


*WOW!* Very nice jacket! Great cloth! Far more nicely cut than most contemporary jackets. So nice to have the skinny lapels avoided, and the shoulders are gorgeous! :icon_cheers:



Fading Fast said:


> The early dinner sounds perfect.
> 
> For a few years, I commuted into NYC from an elevated train station in NJ where there was nothing to block the heavy winter morning winds - a heavy dress winter coat was not a nice to have, it was a need to have. I remember when I bought my first one from a BB-like discount store called Gorsart (I write about it too often as it was just that great a store) - classic charcoal grey wool herringbone - and it was like being wrapped in a windproof heavy blanket when fully buttoned. I had that coat (relined a few times) for close to thirty years.


Despite the then seeming travails, age can add nostalgia. (Though it may only be my younger self for which I am nostalgic.) Never got to the Gorsart in the city, but I used to stop at their shop in East Hampton. Nice little shop in a building which had formerly been a bank. Only ever bought some dress shirts there. Really nice quality, and price!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> *WOW!* Very nice jacket! Great cloth! Far more nicely cut than most contemporary jackets. So nice to have the skinny lapels avoided, and the shoulders are gorgeous! :icon_cheers:
> ...


Thank you. As you highlight, it checked a lot of boxes (and has a real long size), so I had to do it. I'll report out when it comes.



Flanderian said:


> ...
> Despite the then seeming travails, age can add nostalgia. (Though it may only be my younger self for which I am nostalgic.) Never got to the Gorsart in the city, but I used to stop at their shop in East Hampton. Nice little shop in a building which had formerly been a bank. Only ever bought some dress shirts there. Really nice quality, and price!


No doubt, nostalgia scrubs the memory a bit, but heck, we were young, employed and experiencing life de novo - there is much to be nostalgic about. And Gorsart deserves the praise I give it. Not only was the selection and price incredible, but the tailoring (a room full of men and women at old wood tables with ancient sewing machines) was incredible as were the salesmen who knew their product and wouldn't let you leave if the article - when you came back to pick it up - wasn't tailored right.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Thank you. As you highlight, it checked a lot of boxes (and has a real long size), so I had to do it. I'll report out when it comes.
> 
> No doubt, nostalgia scrubs the memory a bit, but heck, we were young, employed and experiencing life de novo - there is much to be nostalgic about. And Gorsart deserves the praise I give it. Not only was the selection and price incredible, but the tailoring (a room full of men and women at old wood tables with ancient sewing machines) was incredible as were the salesmen who knew their product and wouldn't let you leave if the article - when you came back to pick it up - wasn't tailored right.


While Corsart was the cream of the crop, true discount businesses, as contrasted to cynical contemporary faux discount "factory" stores, could be found. The original Jos. A Bank served me admirably for quite a few years.

*"we were young, employed and experiencing life de novo"*

In my place of origin there were three criteria for the _Successful Man_, he needed to be:

!. Alive.

2. Unincarcerated.

3. Employed.

:happy:


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> While Corsart was the cream of the crop, true discount businesses, as contrasted to cynical contemporary faux discount "factory" stores, could be found. The original Jos. A Bank served me admirably for quite a few years.
> 
> *"we were young, employed and experiencing life de novo"*
> 
> In my place of origin there were three criteria for the _Successful Man_, he needed to be:
> 
> !. Alive.
> 
> 2. Unincarcerated.
> 
> 3. Employed.
> 
> :happy:


The requirements for my nondescript "Jersey town" were about the same as yours. I was an oddity having gone to a state university and, hold on to your hat, getting a job in New York City, which was like Oz to my "only 50 miles, but a universe away, from Manhattan" town.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Swell jacket, though I thought you had similar.

Couple of things. You're the same height as the model who's wearing a Regular and it's appearing short on him. So you're sure the Long is long enough? This is a three button jacket, but not a sack, and were you to button the top button, which I advise everyone to do and everyone always says no, you would have what Flanderian insists on calling a 'skinny' lapel. You're okay with that? I would be. I am 5'9" and prefer a 29.50 length jacket, which is what the site calls Regular. But you have 4 inches on me, so, again, is the Long long enough? I don't want you laying out five bills and have a hundred of that spent on disappointment. In addition to wool, the jacket contains rayon and other fbers, tho the ratio isn't stated. That okay?


----------



## Mr. B. Scott Robinson

Just dropped into this place in DC to check out this seasons tweed selection. Now, just to win the lottery!

Cheers,

BSR


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> Swell jacket, though I thought you had similar.
> 
> Couple of things. You're the same height as the model who's wearing a Regular and it's appearing short on him. So you sure the Long is long enough? This is a three button jacket, but not a sack, and were you to button the top button, which I advise everyone to do and everyone says no, you would have what Flanderian insists on calling a 'skinny' lapel. You're okay with that? I would be. I am 5'9" and prefer a 29.50 length jacket, which is what the the site calls Regular. But you have 4 inches on me, so, again, is the Long long enough? I don't want you laying out five bills and have a hundred of that spent on disappointment. In addition to wool, the jacket contains rayon and other fbers, tho the ratio isn't stated. That okay?


Good questions and observations - thank you for all the thought and effort you put into this.

"...though I thought you had similar."
⇨ I do, but each one brings something different to the mix and my "style" is nuanced variations on a narrow palette.

"...So you sure the Long is long enough?" 
⇨ Most of my "longs" are 31" - 32" and work well (cover my, well, butt - hit my fingers where "they" say the bottom should / reasonably bisect my body). I called RL (weeks ago when the jacket first posted) and was told a 40L had a 31" length, so I feel okay about that.

"This is a three button jacket, but not a sack, and were you to button the top button, which I advise everyone to do and everyone says no, you would have what Flanderian insists on calling a 'skinny' lapel. You're okay with that?
⇨ To my eye, the top button "rolls" into the lapel which echos a 3/2, so I'll never button it (I have a more general answer coming below)

"...But you have 4 inches on me, so, again, is the Long long enough?"
⇨ Based on the above comments about my existing 40Ls and general comment coming, I'm good.

I don't want you laying out five bills and have a hundred of that spent on disappointment.
⇨ Sincerely appreciate your concern, but I checked, it is returnable (I can even walk it five blocks over to the store and return it in person for a full refund).

In addition to wool, the jacket contains rayon and other fbers, tho the ratio isn't stated. That okay?
⇨ I asked about this when I call, and forget the exact percentages, but it was (I think) north of 90% wool with, according to the "Product Specialist" she reached out to, the balance providing some wrinkle resistant structure. Plus, see much-promised general comment comment coming now.

⇧ Those are all good and smart questions that I, as you can see, thought about individually, but there is also this: In today's world, if I hold out for everything I want, I will never buy anything.

So instead, since I want to make the occasional purchase, enjoy clothes and have some fun, I have to accept compromises. In most cases, most of them don't bother me at all as I keep a positive attitude toward all of this, i.e., I'm just lucky to be able to buy and wear these close, so I don't obsess (too much), I just try to enjoy them. Heck, the bulk of my "Tweeds" are J.Crew (some wool - cotton blends) that I love.

And, as noted, if I don't like the jacket when it arrives, I'll return it. To be sure, I wish I could walk into the early '60s and shop (or just buy Benjamin's B&W Tweed sport coat from "The Graduate"), but since I can't, I just roll with it and, my guess, I'll love the jacket.

Thank you again, FF


----------



## Oldsarge

Such a delicious Donegal! I believe I have this fabric, though in a more country cut jacket.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> I believe I have this fabric, though in a more country cut jacket.


Which would be what? Not familiar with the term _country cut._ Or come to think of it, _country mile. _And I live in the country.


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> Which would be what? Not familiar with the term _country cut._ Or come to think of it, _country mile. _And I live in the country.


Bi-swing shoulders, patch pockets (possibly bellowed) . . . maybe even a half belt in the back. I don't do leather patched elbows until the jacket starts to show wear there and as yet I haven't demanded a shoulder pad.


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> Which would be what? Not familiar with the term _country cut._ Or come to think of it, _country mile. _And I live in the country.


Urban dictionary: When country folk refer to a country mile it is considerd to be round 10 miles per country mile..ish...we boonfolk dont really consider distance

😁


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> Bi-swing shoulders, patch pockets (possibly bellowed) . . . maybe even a half belt in the back. I don't do leather patched elbows until the jacket starts to show wear there and as yet I haven't demanded a shoulder pad.


Interesting. I favor those items also. I don't necessarily associate them with the country though. Sherlock Holmes lived on Baker Street in the heart of London.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Such a delicious Donegal! I believe I have this fabric, though in a more country cut jacket.
> 
> View attachment 37509


👍 👍 👍


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> Interesting. I favor those items also. I don't necessarily associate them with the country though. Sherlock Holmes lived on Baker Street in the heart of London.


He did, indeed, but the image of him which has become the icon is a traveling cloak and a deerstalker. These were the clothes of a traveler, not an urbanite. So I should be more likely to consider George IV as a image of the urban Londoner and the current POW in his (very) well-worn Barbour as the countryman.

Here he is in a country tweed jacket (my definition)


----------



## Flanderian

The redoubtable Beppe Modenese, Italy's Minister of Style, has wrestled Father Time to a draw -










*KEEP ON TRUKIN' !!!








*


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Proving good to my word (my passion, obsession and stupidity), I just bought this today at 40% off and with free shipping from Polo
> View attachment 37474
> 
> https://www.ralphlauren.com/men-clo...&start=1&cgid=men-clothing-sportcoats-blazers


How heavy is the fabric. Tat unlined design might make that Tweed a fit for wear in the deep South! Just thinking?


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> How heavy is the fabric. Tat unlined design might make that Tweed a fit for wear in the deep South! Just thinking?


I was debating this one versus J.Press' and went with this one, in part, because it's unlined as I like to wear them with a sweater (for look and feel) and not having a lining helps when indoors. I have (too many) similar jackets and find I grab for the unlined ones most of the time.

That said, while I'll report out when it comes, I can't imagine you'd get a lot of wear out of it in (a throat clearing sound can be heard) the Sunshine State.


----------



## Fading Fast

Love this material (could come right out of an illustration in Flanderian's _Esquire_ thread):


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Love this material (could come right out of an illustration in Flanderian's _Esquire_ thread):
> View attachment 37525


*Magnificent* tweed!

👍 👍 👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

A boutonniere is not my thing, but that material is - and nice lapel roll even if the lapel itself is a bit too narrow


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 37585
> 
> A boutonniere is not my thing, but that material is - and nice lapel roll even if the lapel itself is a bit too narrow


Superior tweed, but I'd need a modification of cut and appurtenances. 👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Superior tweed, but I'd need a modification of cut and appurtenances. 👍


Nice.

*Ap-pur-te-nances*
_noun_
plural noun: *appurtenances*

an accessory or other item associated with a particular activity or style of living.
"all the appurtenances of luxurious travel"


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 37585
> 
> A boutonniere is not my thing, but that material is - and nice lapel roll even if the lapel itself is a bit too narrow


If I am going to wear a boutonniere, it better be a real flower. But a lovely suit, all the same.


----------



## ItalianStyle

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 37585
> 
> A boutonniere is not my thing, but that material is - and nice lapel roll even if the lapel itself is a bit too narrow


I can't help but wonder what the purpose of the tie clip is in this otherwise beautiful outfit... :icon_scratch:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Nice.
> 
> *Ap-pur-te-nances*
> _noun_
> plural noun: *appurtenances*
> 
> an accessory or other item associated with a particular activity or style of living.
> "all the appurtenances of luxurious travel"


"an accessory or other item associated with a particular activity or style of living. "

It's a stretch, but I like it. While a logophile given to malapropisms, I do love words for their surprising complexity and richness of meaning. Entailed in them, can often be found an increased understanding of what surrounds us.

A likely vestige of my quasi 19th Century childhood, and the advanced vocabulary afforded by comic books! 



Oldsarge said:


> If I am going to wear a boutonniere, it better be a real flower. But a lovely suit, all the same.


Yes, precisely *that* appurtenance! irate:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Very nice, has a Ben Silver feel.


----------



## eagle2250

ItalianStyle said:


> I can't help but wonder what the purpose of the tie clip is in this otherwise beautiful outfit... :icon_scratch:


It has no purpose. The guy just had a tie bar that he liked and wanted to wear. With that high buttoned vest, the only way to show if off was to clip it high on the tie. In any event, the rig is a very nice tweed!


----------



## FiscalDean

That shot is from the current Ben Silver catalog.


----------



## eagle2250

^^
I thought that to be the case, as well.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## momsdoc

Some new acquisitions cross posted


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Very nice, has a Ben Silver feel.


And a Ben Silver origin! 


Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 37617


Simply magnificent!



momsdoc said:


> Some new acquisitions cross posted
> 
> View attachment 37619
> View attachment 37620
> View attachment 37621
> View attachment 37622


Beautiful tweed checks, my weakness! 👍


----------



## Faux Brummell

Sported a gun club check tweed jacket while visiting Venice. Along with some blue suede shoes, because hey, why not?**

**Well, because Venice experiences "acqua alta" this time of year and the whole city floods, so when the street vendor sells you cheap boots that develop a hole before the day is out one of your shoes gets completely soaked, along with the cute sock underneath with hippos on it that you got to amuse your wife. So that's why not.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## RogerP

Crappy selfie of a tweedy Friday for yours truly.


----------



## Flanderian

Faux Brummell said:


> Sported a gun club check tweed jacket while visiting Venice. Along with some blue suede shoes, because hey, why not?**
> 
> **Well, because Venice experiences "acqua alta" this time of year and the whole city floods, so when the street vendor sells you cheap boots that develop a hole before the day is out one of your shoes gets completely soaked, along with the cute sock underneath with hippos on it that you got to amuse your wife. So that's why not.)
> 
> View attachment 37679


Very handsome tweed!



Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 37686


Ah, oh! Some's got your coat!


----------



## Flanderian

RogerP said:


> Crappy selfie of a tweedy Friday for yours truly.


Beautiful tweed, Roger! And perfect accessories.

:beer:


----------



## Fading Fast

Fading Fast said:


> Proving good to my word (my passion, obsession and stupidity), I just bought this today at 40% off and with free shipping from Polo
> View attachment 37474
> 
> https://www.ralphlauren.com/men-clo...&start=1&cgid=men-clothing-sportcoats-blazers


It came and I won't bury the lead - I sent it back.

The reason: Despite having called before I ordered it and being told that the 40L measured 31" in length, it is only 30" (and that's with tugging on it to make sure I gave it every chance). I tried it on first and knew I was in trouble just by the feel (you guys know what I mean, you can "feel" the length of a garment on you). Then, when I looked in the mirror, I was sure. But I took the measurement, as noted, just to be fair.

My current sport coats all measure 31"-32" so, when I called, I figured I'd be okay as 31" just works for me, but 30" is simply too short. So back to Polo it went.

The review: The coat is really, really nice. To be sure, while the fabric has a great wool feel, it's not Harris Tweed, but hand it to Polo, it felt thick and warm and draped beautifully. And while hard to tell, I have a feeling it would resist wrinkles and age well. I also loved the details - the patch pockets, swelled edges, center vent and leather buttons - are really nice, much nicer than in the web pics. Also, only being lined at the sleeves and shoulders made it feel "natural" when I put it on and, my guess, would be a good compromise when you want to wear a sweater under it.

It was with a heavy heart that I sent it back as I'd buy it again if it came one inch longer.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> It came and I won't bury the lead - I sent it back.
> 
> The reason: Despite having called before I ordered it and being told that the 40L measured 31" in length, it is only 30" (and that's with tugging on it to make sure I gave it every chance). I tried it on first and knew I was in trouble just by the feel (you guys know what I mean, you can "feel" the length of a garment on you). Then, when I looked in the mirror, I was sure. But I took the measurement, as noted, just to be fair.
> 
> My current sport coats all measure 31"-32" so, when I called, I figured I'd be okay as 31" just works for me, but 30" is simply too short. So back to Polo it went.
> 
> The review: The coat is really, really nice. To be sure, while the fabric has a great wool feel, it's not Harris Tweed, but hand it to Polo, it felt thick and warm and draped beautifully. And while hard to tell, I have a feeling it would resist wrinkles and age well. I also loved the details - the patch pockets, swelled edges, center vent and leather buttons - are really nice, much nicer than in the web pics. Also, only being lined at the sleeves and shoulders made it feel "natural" when I put it on and, my guess, would be a good compromise when you want to wear a sweater under it.
> 
> It was with a heavy heart that I sent it back as I'd buy it again if it came one inch longer.


How disappointing!

May you soon find its replacement. 👍

And thanks for bothering with a review even though you've had to send it back.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> How disappointing!
> 
> May you soon find its replacement. 👍
> 
> And thanks for bothering with a review even though you've had to send it back.


Thank you - I felt I owed it to you guys.

Having seen it in person, I have to admit, I'm disappointed. I'm thinking Polo MTM next season - maybe. You know how something can get in your head.

It checked so many boxes for me that I think I'm going to have to go MTM if I want to get what I want. I also saw that J.Press has kicked up its MTM offerings - so I might look at them too.

But that's a fall '20 effort if at all.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Thank you - I felt I owed it to you guys.
> 
> Having seen it in person, I have to admit, I'm disappointed. I'm thinking Polo MTM next season - maybe. You know how something can get in your head.
> 
> It checked so many boxes for me that I think I'm going to have to go MTM if I want to get what I want. I also saw that J.Press has kicked up its MTM offerings - so I might look at them too.
> 
> But that a fall '20 effort if at all.


I will look forward to enjoying your report! :beer:


----------



## Oldsarge

Probably another Polo ad.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Probably another Polo ad.
> 
> View attachment 37699


I think that might be boucle.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bouclé


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> I think that might be boucle.
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bouclé


I think the scarf may be tweed. And it may well not.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 37686


Nice Tweed. So much so it leads one to miss several other, more important details of the photo! :crazy:


----------



## Fading Fast

Coat is too short for my taste, but love the large-scale herringbone


----------



## momsdoc

6”s, only 6 more inches! Then I‘d be lining up with you to buy that in a heartbeat. Price depending of course.


----------



## Flanderian

*Geezer Rocks Tweed. irate:*

G. The Bruce: Real geezer, real clothes, real cool!* :amazing:*


----------



## Flanderian

*Tweed like 'ya mean it!!! *

_"Geezers get to wear as many colors and patterns as they wish; their families only happy that they can still dress themselves, and have not yet soiled their trousers!" _










My tongue-in-cheek slander aside, this gentleman once mentioned that he found his wardrobe, as remarkable for its quality and sophistication as its colorfulness, entirely from Portobello Road. 👍


----------



## Fading Fast

I posted this pic yesterday related to movie comments, but thought it also belonged here as a great example of a classic women's Tweed suit.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> I posted this pic yesterday related to movie comments, but thought it also belonged here as a great example of a classic women's Tweed suit.
> View attachment 37763


It must be the period cosmetics. The tweed looks real, the lady, not so much.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 37794


Tweed is nice, but I can't handle the button stance and shoulder top gorge. And what's with the 7 button vest? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> It must be the period cosmetics. The tweed looks real, the lady, not so much.


It was the '30s and Hollywood went for a very stylized look - heavy makeup, hair "done up," clothes uber-tailored, etc. Also, Bette Davis was an unconventional looking star. Here's a GIF of her that might give you a little more sense of what an animated version of her looked like:


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 37820


Very nice! 👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 37833


Perfect! Absolutely perfect! 👍

Best dressed guy I've seen all year!

:beer:


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Perfect! Absolutely perfect! 👍
> 
> Best dressed guy I've seen all year!
> 
> :beer:


He's inspirational. I may have to do that route next time I go out. And when I looked him up he's the Stieff Ralph Lauren University Bear. :beer:


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> He's inspirational. I may have to do that route next time I go out. And when I looked him up he's the Stieff Ralph Lauren University Bear. :beer:


I'd like his sweater! irate:


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> I'd like his sweater! irate:


Seriously! I've got everything else.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> Seriously! I've got everything else.


I have everything too, but my version of his sweater is in a dove grey (and it's an actual Polo one as a friend who worked there years ago bought it for me as a BD gift).


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

A bit 'lively' perhaps but attractive in its own way.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 37862


Great tweed!

But I find the accessorizing somewhat wanting.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Great tweed!
> 
> But I find the accessorizing somewhat wanting.


I know it's done, but I'm not a fan of that patterned shirt with that tweed - too much "small busy" for my taste. Other then with true business suits and, then, only a white square one (or maybe the little sails design), I don't like PS, full stop - so I'm almost always the wrong one to ask about that. The tie feels Polo Purple Label to me trying to echo a '40s style - but that's just a guess as there was no caption with the pic.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I know it's done, but I'm not a fan of that patterned shirt with that tweed - too much "small busy" for my taste. Other then with true business suits and, then, only a white square one (or maybe the little sails design), I don't like PS, full stop - so I'm almost always the wrong one to ask about that. The tie feels Polo Purple Label to me trying to echo a '40s style - but that's just a guess as there was no caption with the pic.


Exactly!

I feel the intensity of each of the four elements is too great to combine more than, at most, two. As you said, too busy. Each is great individually, but that tie would be easiest with a solid shirt, and if someone just had to wear it with the tattersall than a solid jacket and very faint pattern PS.

When you have items as dominating as that tie, jacket and PS, you get to pick one.


----------



## Oldsarge

This is better.


----------



## Fading Fast

Stumbled on this one looking for pics for the '50s illustration thread and thought it was a neat variation on what we usually post here:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Stumbled on this one looking for pics for the '50s illustration thread and thought it was a neat variation on what we usually post here:
> View attachment 37886


Cool!


----------



## Flanderian

Button one more button, and it's good to go!


----------



## Fading Fast

Fading Fast said:


> Stumbled on this one looking for pics for the '50s illustration thread and thought it was a neat variation on what we usually post here:


Methinks they were going for a Troy Donahue echo:


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 37931





Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 37941


NICE! :beer:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Winhes2




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 37931


Love the jacket, but they should really adjust that 'dress form' to reflect better sizing of same.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Love the jacket, but they should really adjust that 'dress form' to reflect better sizing of same.


I, too, thought it a particularly nice jacket. I'm not a hacking jacket expert, but it looks like one to me, other than, as you note, its skinny cut.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge

I *WANT* this tie!


----------



## Oldsarge

Unlike this . . .


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 37977
> 
> 
> I *WANT* this tie!


Agreed, nice tweed, but the tie is the star of that outfit.


----------



## Flanderian

:devil:


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ I'm seeing '30s meets the '70s in that one.

⇩ Nice tweed and interesting outfit that I wouldn't have thought of but I think works well, but what I'm really jealous of is the fit of those shoulders.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ I'm seeing '30s meets the '70s in that one.
> 
> 
> 
> I suspect your sartorial insight is spot-on, my friend. I love the jacket and think I like the sweater, but the scarf is perhaps a "thread too far" for me.
Click to expand...


----------



## Flanderian

I might have worn something similar 30 years ago - far to flamboyant now. Too long in the tooth, you know! 😢

But I'd need to have toned it down. Would likely tucked the scarf under the jacket and just worn it folded over, and would need a somewhat different scarf though similar. I've long been enthusiastic over the lavish prints Drake's sell, perhaps one of these -


----------



## momsdoc

I keep coming back to this jacket. The more I look, the weaker I get. It doesn't help that it's available as a 3 piece suit.










If it had a half belt, I'd be a gonna by now.


----------



## Flanderian

momsdoc said:


> I keep coming back to this jacket. The more I look, the weaker I get. It doesn't help that it's available as a 3 piece suit.
> 
> View attachment 38002
> 
> 
> If it had a half belt, I'd be a gonna by now.
> View attachment 38003


Wow, love that cloth! :beer:


----------



## momsdoc

^^ That' my problem. The cloth is very appealing. I've edited this post to reflect my oversight as to the materials origin. It is a Harris Tweed after all.

The richness. Of colors, heft, tightness of weave, and especially the shaGI ness are all quite appealing. Combining that with bellows pockets, just makes it sing out Old Sarge with a deep, rustic, Scotch infused voice.

I have no coats with bellows pockets, and am unsure as to it's utility in my dress wardrobe. Going the full Mony in a suit would probably be a waste for me, as I don't know of any Pheasant shoots in my part of Jersey. But as a sports coat, with or without the waistcoat, I'm sure it could be of good use. Very damn memorable is a bit of an. Issue. Not the kind of thing worn around the hospital, or office. I would just take care to not wear it around the same people more than once or twice a season.

Do you see what you have done? You're making me start rationalizing its purchase. We all know how that turns out. I'd best get to bed to let the itchy trigger finger cool off.










SIGH!


----------



## Odradek

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 37977
> 
> 
> I *WANT* this tie!


I believe I once sold a tie just like that on eBay.

Very similar anyway.

It was made by a German company called Ascot, if that's any help.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## momsdoc

Flanderian said:


> I might have worn something similar 30 years ago - far to flamboyant now. Too long in the tooth, you know! 😢
> 
> But I'd need to have toned it down. Would likely tucked the scarf under the jacket and just worn it folded over, and would need a somewhat different scarf though similar. I've long been enthusiastic over the lavish prints Drake's sell, perhaps one of


I find nothing comes close to Drakes for the depth of their field, richness of color and pattern, and their aura of quality. I would love to own a few, but, (a.) I'm too cheap, and, (b.), I'd be reaching for them all the time, as my existing items would feel bland and pedestrian.


----------



## Flanderian

momsdoc said:


> ^^ That' my problem. The cloth is very appealing. I've edited this post to reflect my oversight as to the materials origin. It is a Harris Tweed after all.
> 
> The richness. Of colors, heft, tightness of weave, and especially the shaGI ness are all quite appealing. Combining that with bellows pockets, just makes it sing out Old Sarge with a deep, rustic, Scotch infused voice.
> 
> I have no coats with bellows pockets, and am unsure as to it's utility in my dress wardrobe. Going the full Mony in a suit would probably be a waste for me, as I don't know of any Pheasant shoots in my part of Jersey. But as a sports coat, with or without the waistcoat, I'm sure it could be of good use. Very damn memorable is a bit of an. Issue. Not the kind of thing worn around the hospital, or office. I would just take care to not wear it around the same people more than once or twice a season.
> 
> Do you see what you have done? You're making me start rationalizing its purchase. We all know how that turns out. I'd best get to bed to let the itchy trigger finger cool off.
> 
> View attachment 38006
> 
> 
> SIGH!


Glad to have been of assistance! :devil: 

Certainly smart for a more casual day at your practice. If there's anything that gives me pause, it's the double, flapped, belows breast pockets. Would like it better with just one. But you're a younger man than me, and could likely carry it off.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 38012


Magnificent! :icon_hailthee:

Whose? :icon_scratch:



momsdoc said:


> I find nothing comes close to Drakes for the depth of their field, richness of color and pattern, and their aura of quality. I would love to own a few, but, (a.) I'm too cheap, and, (b.), I'd be reaching for them all the time, as my existing items would feel bland and pedestrian.


I've limited the damage done by Drakes to solely PS. But even at that, their collective cost could have provided a fine pair or two of footwear. But even still, I find it justified by how well they enrich a broad range of jackets, etc.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 38025


Lovely tweed!

But if I were to select a turtleneck to compliment it, I'd look for a bit more tonal contrast. Navy and forest green would both make it pop.


----------



## Flanderian

PB&J! Black knit tie, pale pink shirt and grey herringbone.

Note black used as an accent color to make the other items pop, and if needed, to help pull them all together!


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ The black knit tie with a B&W herringbone sport coat is a classic combo with the pink shirt adding, IMO, a wonderful pop to that classic pairing.


----------



## Hellbent

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ The black knit tie with a B&W herringbone sport coat is a classic combo with the pink shirt adding, IMO, a wonderful pop to that classic pairing.


Indeed! I have a grey herringbone is currently being made. Might need to get me a pink shirt now as well. I am thinking that a cream (light yellow) shirt also will look good.


----------



## Fading Fast

Hellbent said:


> Indeed! I have a grey herringbone is currently being made. Might need to get me a pink shirt now as well. I am thinking that a cream (light yellow) shirt also will look good.


I love grey herringbone so am curious about the one you are having made - any details that you care to share would be appreciated.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Hellbent

Fading Fast said:


> I love grey herringbone so am curious about the one you are having made - any details that you care to share would be appreciated.


Sure thing.
Shetland tweed:









Jacket will be full canvas. Fully lined. Generous notch lapels. Unstructured with slightly extended shoulders compared to "traditional" neopolitan style. 3 button roll. Barchetta pocket. Jet pockets on sides. Double vents. Grey horn buttons. 3 button sleeves. It's a MTM thing from Saman Amel of Stockholm, Sweden. They have been featured a couple of times on permanentstyle.com by Simon Crompton.


----------



## Fading Fast

Hellbent said:


> Sure thing.
> Shetland tweed:
> View attachment 38046
> 
> 
> Jacket will be full canvas. Fully lined. Generous notch lapels. Unstructured with slightly extended shoulders compared to "traditional" neopolitan style. 3 button roll. Barchetta pocket. Jet pockets on sides. Double vents. Grey horn buttons. 3 button sleeves. It's a MTM thing from Saman Amel of Stockholm, Sweden. They have been featured a couple of times on permanentstyle.com by Simon Crompton.


Fantastic, I'm excited for you. That is a beautiful tweed. When is it due?


----------



## Hellbent

Fading Fast said:


> Fantastic, I'm excited for you. That is a beautiful tweed. When is it due?


Thank you. I would guess mid February. It usually takes 6-8 weeks.


----------



## Fading Fast

Hellbent said:


> Thank you. I would guess mid February. It usually takes 6-8 weeks.


If you are willing, it would be great to see pics when it comes.


----------



## momsdoc

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 37833


My muse.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ The black knit tie with a B&W herringbone sport coat is a classic combo with the pink shirt adding, IMO, a wonderful pop to that classic pairing.


I thought of you when I saw the grey herringbone. 



Hellbent said:


> Indeed! I have a grey herringbone is currently being made. Might need to get me a pink shirt now as well. I am thinking that a cream (light yellow) shirt also will look good.


I like grey jackets with ecru (cream) shirts. I remember as an adolescent window shopper being surprised by how good a window display featuring this combination with maroon and grey tie looked.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 38043


I'd need to change the tie, but lovely tweed and sweater!



Hellbent said:


> Sure thing.
> Shetland tweed:
> View attachment 38046
> 
> 
> Jacket will be full canvas. Fully lined. Generous notch lapels. Unstructured with slightly extended shoulders compared to "traditional" neopolitan style. 3 button roll. Barchetta pocket. Jet pockets on sides. Double vents. Grey horn buttons. 3 button sleeves. It's a MTM thing from Saman Amel of Stockholm, Sweden. They have been featured a couple of times on permanentstyle.com by Simon Crompton.


Nice tweed! And I think your tailoring specification ideal! 
I'm sure you will enjoy it! :beer:


----------



## Flanderian

momsdoc said:


> My muse.
> 
> View attachment 38047


Wow, doc! 
:beer:


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> I'd need to change the tie, but lovely tweed and sweater!
> ...


I agree, the tie is the weak part of that combo - the jacket and sweater sing together.



momsdoc said:


> My muse.
> 
> View attachment 38047


You did our little friend the bear proud - well done.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I agree, the tie is the weak part of that combo - the jacket and sweater sing together.


The photo looks like something I might concoct. I'd put it on, think how smart it all looks. Then look in the mirror again and start getting queasy vibes, walk around a bit and think, "Yuck!" and then go and change it. :crazy:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Hellbent

David Robert Somerset, 11th Duke of Beaufort and Master of Hounds, shows the most elegant way to wear tweed with jeans. Also, he sports his wristwatch over his shirt cuff Agnelli style, or maybe it's actually Somerset Style.


----------



## Flanderian

Hellbent said:


> David Robert Somerset, 11th Duke of Beaufort and Master of Hounds, shows the most elegant way to wear tweed with jeans. Also, he sports his wristwatch over his shirt cuff Agnelli style, or maybe it's actually Somerset Style.
> View attachment 38053


👍 👍 👍


----------



## Oldsarge

Odradek said:


> I believe I once sold a tie just like that on eBay.
> 
> Very similar anyway.
> 
> It was made by a German company called Ascot, if that's any help.


Sadly their website doesn't show that pattern at present.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 38012


Oh, I say!


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 38049


Another truly gorgeous combination. I would wear it with an ecru shirt instead of bright white and pick a contrasting PS buy just as it is, I have no quarrel. And such a lovely tie . . .


----------



## Oldsarge

And now for a true field tweed, by Purdey, of course.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> Oh, I say!


I thought that one has you written all over it.


----------



## Fading Fast

I like the sport coat's material and the combo with the blue sweater vest and grey flannels.

I oppose the bowtie if (if this is correct) it is made of the same material as the sport coat (otherwise, I like bowties). Also, everything appears cut to skinny for my taste.


----------



## David J. Cooper

I bought a cheap tweed Shooting Jacket from New Forest Clothing. I am loving how perfect it is for Vancouver. Less than 100£ all in. A bit rough around the edges but for that price it's been great.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> And now for a true field tweed, by Purdey, of course.
> 
> View attachment 38056


Great country coat!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 38070
> 
> I like the sport coat's material and the combo with the blue sweater vest and grey flannels.
> 
> I oppose the bowtie if (if this is correct) it is made of the same material as the sport coat (otherwise, I like bowties). Also, everything appears cut to skinny for my taste.


Beautiful tweed! 👍

But why did they cut it as a waiter's jacket!? 😉


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 38070
> 
> I like the sport coat's material and the combo with the blue sweater vest and grey flannels.
> 
> I oppose the bowtie if (if this is correct) it is made of the same material as the sport coat (otherwise, I like bowties). Also, everything appears cut to skinny for my taste.


My feelings exactly.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 38070
> 
> I like the sport coat's material and the combo with the blue sweater vest and grey flannels.
> 
> I oppose the bowtie if (if this is correct) it is made of the same material as the sport coat (otherwise, I like bowties). Also, everything appears cut to skinny for my taste.





Flanderian said:


> Beautiful tweed! 👍
> 
> But why did they cut it as a waiter's jacket!? 😉




Indeed, I am not a fan of the jacet design, but the fabric pattern is extraordinary...very appealing, I think!


----------



## momsdoc

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 38071


Reminiscent of my Cordings suit


----------



## Flanderian

momsdoc said:


> Reminiscent of my Cordings suit
> 
> View attachment 38091


Yes, both similar, and both beautiful! :beer:


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

My kingdom for that coat (which means the store would want my kingdom plus the full price of the coat for it). The raglan-sleeve overcoat is almost an endangered species today.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 38168
> 
> My kingdom for that coat (which means the store would want my kingdom plus the full price of the coat for it). The raglan-sleeve overcoat is almost an endangered species today.


Agreed. I am quite frankly afraid to look it up to find out how much they want for it.


----------



## StephenRG

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 38107


Wow!


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> Agreed. I am quite frankly afraid to look it up to find out how much they want for it.


I tried a bit, but couldn't find the price.


----------



## Oldsarge

"If you have to ask . . ."


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> "If you have to ask . . ."


You're right. 😞


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## momsdoc

You say you like Raglan sleeve tweed coats? This is one of my favorites.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 38197
> 
> 
> View attachment 38198


Love the bottom one!



momsdoc said:


> You say you like Raglan sleeve tweed coats? This is one of my favorites.
> 
> View attachment 38212


What a lovely coat! :beer:


----------



## Fading Fast

More Raglan


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## StephenRG

Fading Fast said:


> More Raglan
> View attachment 38218


Sod the raglan - that's my kind of suit!


----------



## Fading Fast

StephenRG said:


> Sod the raglan - that's my kind of suit!


Very impressive suit - the whole look is spot on.


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Sod the raglan - that's my kind of suit!





Fading Fast said:


> Very impressive suit - the whole look is spot on.


👍 👍 👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 38227


Doesn't this go in the Geezer Power thread? It should, 'cause he has.


----------



## StephenRG

Ahem...Bentley GT convertible available with a tweed roof


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Doesn't this go in the Geezer Power thread? It should, 'cause he has.


Geezers get to go where they want, when they want! irate:


----------



## eagle2250

^^



Flanderian said:


> View attachment 38227


Impressive indeed, but I find myself strangely reminded of a Wizardry professor at Hogwarts, in one of the old Harry Potter movies, who at one point disguised himself as an overstuffed chair! Alas, I can't seem to recall his name, this AM? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast

Looking to see what was really out there in Raglan Tweed overcoats, I came across these two. Both look nice, but neither sings to me like some of the ones we've recently been looking at. Personally, for this coat, I'd want a larger-scale herringbone.

From Magee: https://www.magee1866.com/en/Black-...Tweed-Corrib-Quilted-Raglan-Coat/m-12386.aspx









And from Harris Tweed Shop: https://www.harristweedshop.com/harris-tweed-overcoat.html


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> 
> Impressive indeed, but I find myself strangely reminded of a Wizardry professor at Hogwarts, in one of the old Harry Potter movies, who at one point disguised himself as an overstuffed chair! Alas, I can't seem to recall his name, this AM? :icon_scratch:


Sir, you are in the presence of The Hon. Garech Domnagh Browne, aka, Garech a Brún, eldest son of Dominick Browne, the 4th Lord Oranmore and Browne.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Looking to see what was really out there in Raglan Tweed overcoats, I came across these two. Both look nice, but neither sings to me like some of the ones we've recently been looking at. Personally, for this coat, I'd want a larger-scale herringbone.
> 
> From Magee: https://www.magee1866.com/en/Black-...Tweed-Corrib-Quilted-Raglan-Coat/m-12386.aspx
> View attachment 38234
> 
> 
> And from Harris Tweed Shop: https://www.harristweedshop.com/harris-tweed-overcoat.html
> View attachment 38235


I have my doubts about the top one, but the bottom one looks like the real deal though I'd like it better without the purple lining and matching accessories. The whole look and posture brings back echos of my boyhood when men in hats removing a tweed overcoat was a common winter scene.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> ...The whole look and posture brings back echos of my boyhood when men in hats removing a tweed overcoat was a common winter scene.


Very funny - I echoed just that sentiment over in the "Cool '50s Illustration..." thread today.

I didn't grow up in that world, so it wasn't until I started working in the '80s that I experienced wet winter wool - it's feel and smell.

To this day, that smell in 1980s winters to me.

As we've noted many times and in many places at AAAC, the collapse in the traditional forms of dress - long, heavy Tweed overcoats in the winter, in this case - has really accelerated in the last five years. I now have to look around a bit to find someone wearing a long Tweed winter coat when I'm out. I still see shorter, usually thinner, "car coats" in wool, but it's getting harder to spot a traditional Tweed overcoat even in NYC.


----------



## Oldsarge

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> 
> Impressive indeed, but I find myself strangely reminded of a Wizardry professor at Hogwarts, in one of the old Harry Potter movies, who at one point disguised himself as an overstuffed chair! Alas, I can't seem to recall his name, this AM? :icon_scratch:


Are you sure that wasn't the Dean in the Discworld series? He was described as such.


----------



## Oldsarge

Prince Phillip


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Prince Phillip
> 
> View attachment 38254


Ah! Poor Philip! Better days. 



Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 38280


Nice! 👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## BillC

Flanderian said:


> Ah! Poor Philip! Better days.
> 
> Nice! 👍


I love Kevin & Howlin in Dublin. I bought a nice MTM 3-piece tweed suit from them a few years ago for $750 delivered to Texas. They have actual bolts of tweed in the rear of their shop,which is far superior to swatches. BillC


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## momsdoc




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

momsdoc said:


> View attachment 38321


Very well done, Sir! :beer:



Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 38391


An exceptionally handsome take on the bush/field jacket! 👍


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 38411




👎 👎 👎


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> 👎 👎 👎


It is a little garish, isn't it?


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> It is a little garish, isn't it?


Yup!

A plaid like that is hard to pull off and really demands understated accessories. With this one, I'd like solids best.

Also, I've talked occasionally about using solid black as an accent piece, and a high quality black turtleneck would be ideal with that jacket. Black sucks up color and would cool down that sizzling plaid and render it richer looking.


----------



## Flanderian

Great pheasant's eye tweed! Great jacket!

But I could find more interesting items to pair with it. Sings out for chocolate brown corduroy trousers, and how about a cream cashmere turtleneck instead? Or cream colored BD with a maroon figured ascot?


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Great pheasant's eye tweed! Great jacket!
> 
> But I could find more interesting items to pair with it. Sings out for chocolate brown corduroy trousers, and how about a cream cashmere turtleneck instead? Or cream colored BD with a maroon figured ascot?
> 
> View attachment 38414


A forest green turtleneck would go well, especially with the recommended chocolate trousers.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> A forest green turtleneck would go well, especially with the recommended chocolate trousers.


:beer:

👍 👍 👍


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Great pheasant's eye tweed! Great jacket!
> 
> But I could find more interesting items to pair with it. Sings out for chocolate brown corduroy trousers, and how about a cream cashmere turtleneck instead? Or cream colored BD with a maroon figured ascot?
> 
> View attachment 38414


Love the jacket, but agree, the outfit feels off. I love grey turtlenecks (as my collection of five or six avers), but don't like it with this jacket. Your suggestions sound good as might the much-controversial black turtleneck - I'd need to see it together first.


----------



## Fading Fast

Some Tweed "pieces:"


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Love the jacket, but agree, the outfit feels off. I love grey turtlenecks (as my collection of five or six avers), but don't like it with this jacket. Your suggestions sound good as might the much-controversial black turtleneck - I'd need to see it together first.


👍



Fading Fast said:


> Some Tweed "pieces:"
> View attachment 38434
> View attachment 38435
> View attachment 38433


Very nice tweed!
Very nice altogether! :beer:


----------



## Flanderian

Very interesting tweed, though less fond of the overall presentation.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 38450


Lovely cloth!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Surreal Tweed. Salvador Dali, naturally.


----------



## Oldsarge

Donegal!


----------



## Oldsarge

Magnificent!


----------



## momsdoc

Oldsarge said:


> Surreal Tweed. Salvador Dali, naturally.
> 
> View attachment 38474


the tweed is beautiful, but the Alpaca is mind blowing.


----------



## Fading Fast

To do list: (1) button shirt-collar buttons, (2) button top-two cardigan buttons, (3) lose pocket square.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> To do list: (1) button shirt-collar buttons, (2) button top-two cardigan buttons, (3) lose pocket square.
> View attachment 38507


Is it possible that that is an intentionally sloppy look? If so, the wearer has done himself and those fine threads a real disservice. I am not sure why anyone would intentionally go for such a 'trashed' look? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Is it possible that that is an intentionally sloppy look? If so, the wearer has done himself and those fine threads a real disservice. I am not sure why anyone would intentionally go for such a 'trashed' look? :icon_scratch:


My guess is that it's intentional - maybe an errant attempt at sprezzatura. That said, at least it not a hoody or puffer vest.


----------



## David J. Cooper

People now call rust and dirt on their cars Patina. Same thing.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> To do list: (1) button shirt-collar buttons, (2) button top-two cardigan buttons, (3) lose pocket square.
> View attachment 38507


It looks like a grad student who has been given an undergraduate seminar to lead and doesn't want to. Or possibly is hoping that one of the sophomore girls will find him bohemian and rakish.


----------



## Flanderian

It's I-gent sprez! 🤢


----------



## ran23

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 38509


Great, Now I want a University Stripe Tie.


----------



## Fading Fast

Looks Polo to me. Love the color combinations.


----------



## David J. Cooper

I have the vest (sweater to some). It is Polo.


----------



## Fading Fast

David J. Cooper said:


> I have the vest (sweater to some). It is Polo.


I love the Fair Isle - nice purchase on your part.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 38529
> 
> Looks Polo to me. Love the color combinations.


----------



## Flanderian

Plain and simple -


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


>


I had a feeling you'd love that outfit - I agree, it's a home run.

And let's not forget that the Bambino had a sense of style too:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I had a feeling you'd love that outfit - I agree, it's a home run.
> 
> And let's not forget that the Bambino had a sense of style too:
> View attachment 38548


Look at those shoes!!! :icon_hailthee:


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 38562


Nice choice of complimentary colors!


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> Nice choice of complimentary colors!


I agree and am thinking our friend Flanderian will probably like them too.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 38562


Great tweed, but I'd need to change a few things. 👍


----------



## ran23

PS can go, switch to a Burberry Paisley? I like the off-white chinos? or maybe my tan flannels?


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Great tweed, but I'd need to change a few things. 👍


Like?


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Like?


1. Extreme cut and tight fit.
2. Hip-hugger, low rise, light weight pants. (Jeans?)
3. Excessively matchy-matchy shirt, tie and PS. (And it's bright lavender! )
4. TV fold PS. Particularly out of character with tweed.


----------



## Oldsarge

See, the devil is in the details.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 38591


👍 👍 👍


----------



## Fading Fast

An overcoat is doing its job if it can double as a winter blanket:









Like this:








And that coat in action:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> An overcoat is doing its job if it can double as a winter blanket:
> View attachment 38607
> 
> 
> Like this:
> View attachment 38608
> 
> And that coat in action:
> View attachment 38609


Great photos, all!

I had seen the top one, and with that coat, immediately thought of you!


----------



## momsdoc

Oldsarge said:


> See, the devil is in the details.


I believe I see an unbuttoned collar also.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## momsdoc

I want these. Where can i get them:amazing:


----------



## Fading Fast

momsdoc said:


> I want these. Where can i get them:amazing:
> 
> View attachment 38621


If I knew, all the 40L would already by gone.


----------



## Fading Fast

Not the greatest looking quality, but I love a heavy (almost solid) grey tweed suit.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Not the greatest looking quality, but I love a heavy (almost solid) grey tweed suit.
> View attachment 38625


Great looking suit and that handsome cane is a potentially thoughtful accessory!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Not the greatest looking quality, but I love a heavy (almost solid) grey tweed suit.
> View attachment 38625





eagle2250 said:


> Perfect simplicity, though the wear would likely trade out the PS with the solid tie.
> 
> Sign me up!
> 
> Great looking suit and that handsome cane is a potentially thoughtful accessory!


And a necessary adjunct! 

Though with such a handsome stick, it's something to be enjoyed.


----------



## Winhes2

Fading Fast said:


> Not the greatest looking quality, but I love a heavy (almost solid) grey tweed suit.
> View attachment 38625


Nice that they showed a second tie with the outfit. I wonder why shops don't always show variations. Seems to me that would both: a. accomplish the upsell for them; and b. save the buyer time and mistakes and extend the life of the clothes by letting them buy several variations that go well together.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast

Interesting, usually, the fabric swatches ⇧ garners a few comments. I guess everyone, like me, was a bit burned out from watching too much football.

I was going to post another set of swatches, but let's go with this for something a bit different:


----------



## David J. Cooper

The last game was the one to watch.
I wonder if there is a tweed in Seahawks colours?


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 38629


YOWZER! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Great cloth, though I'd select different things otherwise. The shirt's OK, but grey shirts aren't anything I can wear, but more significantly, IMHO anytime you can select a grey shirt, there's usually a better choice anyway. The tie does nothing, and the PS just subverts the cloth while technically matching.

But I'm being picky, as it's far better than much to be seen. I'm just disappointed that there are unrealized better choices.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> ... IMHO anytime you can select a grey shirt, there's usually a better choice anyway.....


:lol:


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Interesting, usually, the fabric swatches ⇧ garners a few comments. I guess everyone, like me, was a bit burned out from watching too much football.
> 
> I was going to post another set of swatches, but let's go with this for something a bit different:
> 
> View attachment 38671


Perhaps sporty vest designs such as the above, would be a way of continuing to enjoy the tweeds this deep in the south? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Perhaps sporty vest designs such as the above, would be a way of continuing to enjoy the tweeds this deep in the south? :icon_scratch:


Sure, that vest would be pleasant in the deep south, if by the deep south, you mean the Northeast. 

Kidding aside, I've been to FLA several times and in all seasons, can't imagine wearing that vest. That said, I've been told it does occasionally dip into the 40s or even lower, once in awhile and depending on where in FLA you are, so maybe.

As we've chatted about before, I think your best option is a trip north in the fall to enjoy our best season and to wear some of your tweeds, etc.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Sure, that vest would be pleasant in the deep south, if by the deep south, you mean the Northeast.
> 
> Kidding aside, I've been to FLA several times and in all seasons, can't imagine wearing that vest. That said, I've been told it does occasionally dip into the 40s or even lower, once in awhile and depending on where in FLA you are, so maybe.
> 
> As we've chatted about before, I think your best option is a trip north in the fall to enjoy our best season and to wear some of your tweeds, etc.


Good, honest advice...Thanks, I think I needed that. I have been able to wear just one of my lighter weight Tweeds but one time this winter season! Bummer.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> Perhaps sporty vest designs such as the above, would be a way of continuing to enjoy the tweeds this deep in the south? :icon_scratch:


Gotta learn how to work that Tropic Look! :happy:


----------



## Fading Fast

Remember the rule, a good Tweed overcoat should also be able to do double duty as a heavy winter blanket.


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Gotta learn how to work that Tropic Look! :happy:
> 
> View attachment 38689


I 'll try, but this reminds me of the Jim Carey look in The Mask...yes, no? Not a stable image, I fear. :crazy:


----------



## Oldsarge

You could try the Our Man In Havana look.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> You could try the Our Man In Havana look.
> 
> View attachment 38696


And it's a quirky and entertaining movie.


----------



## Fading Fast

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 38694
> 
> Remember the rule, a good Tweed overcoat should also be able to do double duty as a heavy winter blanket.


⇧ I'm surprised yesterday's "Apparel Arts" worthy overcoat garnered no comments.

Oh well, we'll try a heavy tweed ⇩ again today and see what happens .


----------



## momsdoc

Cross post


----------



## ran23

Rain soon, so I stepped out in my Hart, Schaffner & Marx tweed overcoat to walk for a while. these brown AE Wilbert are a good walking shoe. BB Pinstripe shirt and wool vest.


----------



## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 38694
> 
> Remember the rule, a good Tweed overcoat should also be able to do double duty as a heavy winter blanket.


I'm obsessed with drape lately, so I love this.

I do wish coats like this had a lot more sleeve taper though. A blustery wind flying up your sleeve is just not fun. Enough to where you can shove the whole sleeve in a pocket.

Though I wonder if that much taper would look odd.


----------



## Oldsarge

delicious_scent said:


> I'm obsessed with drape lately, so I love this.
> 
> I do wish coats like this had a lot more sleeve taper though. A blustery wind flying up your sleeve is just not fun. Enough to where you can shove the whole sleeve in a pocket.
> 
> Though I wonder if that much taper would look odd.


If the weather is that foul, looking odd would be far down on my list of priorities.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> I'm obsessed with drape lately, so I love this.
> 
> I do wish coats like this had a lot more sleeve taper though. A blustery wind flying up your sleeve is just not fun. Enough to where you can shove the whole sleeve in a pocket.
> 
> Though I wonder if that much taper would look odd.


I'm with you on drape.

Some of these types of coats have the ability to tighten the sleeve opening with a strip of fabric that wraps around the cuff and a button or two (though it doesn't look like this one does).

When I used to commute and was standing on a wind-whipped and frozen train platform waiting for an always late train, I use to fold the the sleeve opening over on itself and hold it closed with my fingers pushing it against the base of my palm. As you noted, the wind blowing in there wasn't fun, so "closing" it as I did made a big difference.


----------



## 215339

Oldsarge said:


> If the weather is that foul, looking odd would be far down on my list of priorities.


It is right now :angry:.

I am thankful for moleskin and melton wool.


----------



## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> I'm with you on drape.
> 
> Some of these types of coats have the ability to tighten the sleeve opening with a strip of fabric that wraps around the cuff and a button or two (though it doesn't look like this one does).
> 
> When I used to commute and was standing on a wind-whipped and frozen train platform waiting for an always late train, I use to fold the the sleeve opening over on itself and hold it closed with my fingers pushing it against the base of my palm. As you noted, the wind blowing in there wasn't fun, so "closing" it as I did made a big difference.


I just bought a trench that has that and it's a bit useless, the sleeve opening is just too enormous.

Yeah that's what I usually did with my peacoat in the past, but I completely forgot. Thanks for the reminder!


----------



## eagle2250

momsdoc said:


> Cross post
> 
> View attachment 38726
> 
> View attachment 38727


Your Keepers Coat is nothing short of magnificent...Tweed art, for sure!


----------



## Fading Fast

While I respect that someone was trying to do something different, it looks like the product of too much inter-species copulating for my taste.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 38752
> 
> While I respect that someone was trying to do something different, it looks like the product of too much inter-species copulating for my taste.


That jacket needs a lot of help...starting with the collar. It looks like a collar on a cardigan sweater...a hot mess, for sure. :crazy:


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 38752
> 
> While I respect that someone was trying to do something different, it looks like the product of too much inter-species copulating for my taste.


_SHUDDER!_


----------



## Oldsarge

These are better, though not all are clothing.




























Minus Arnold's tie, of course.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ I'm surprised yesterday's "Apparel Arts" worthy overcoat garnered no comments.
> 
> Oh well, we'll try a heavy tweed ⇩ again today and see what happens .
> View attachment 38722





Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 38728
> 
> 
> View attachment 38729


Very nice! 👍



momsdoc said:


> Cross post
> 
> View attachment 38726
> 
> View attachment 38727


WOW!!! :happy:


----------



## Fading Fast

I don't know what the heck is going on here with the coat - a bit too quirky for me, but I like the sweater.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> I don't know what the heck is going on here with the coat - a bit too quirky for me, but I like the sweater.
> View attachment 38786


To my aging eyes, the coat looks knit! I mean, look at the way it folds. A double breasted, shawl collar, gauntlet cuffed sweater. Different!


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> To my aging eyes, the coat looks knit! I mean, look at the way it folds. A double breasted, shawl collar, gauntlet cuffed sweater. Different!


Good call - I think you are correct. Still not my thing - but makes more sense.

IMO, only a tall man with a large frame can carry something like that off. A short or slight-of-build man will be swallowed up by something like that.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I don't know what the heck is going on here with the coat - a bit too quirky for me, but I like the sweater.
> View attachment 38786


Lovely colors, patterns and textures! A well composed ensemble! 👍



Oldsarge said:


> To my aging eyes, the coat looks knit! I mean, look at the way it folds. A double breasted, shawl collar, gauntlet cuffed sweater. Different!


+1! 👍

Though I might elect to term it a sweater coat. Italian knitters make some truly beautiful knits, and at least since I've been around  have made extra-chunky knits into sweater-jackets-coats-etc. And I do not disdain them, though realizing the limitations a knit places on the garment compared to something like a sturdy woven tweed.


----------



## 215339

__
http://instagr.am/p/B6i4-91l1On/


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

Okay, I was with this (sans the PS) as my eye didn't even notice the denim collar popping up for the first few moments that I looked at it. I had a charcoal grey, tone-on-tone glen plaid sport coat (with a smaller pattern scale) like that at one point. I would, sometimes, wear it with a lighter grey turtleneck - as in the pic - for, IMO, a clean look, but as noted, not with a PS (not my thing) and definitely not with a shirt collar just barely peeking out as if it was checking to see if the coast is clear.


----------



## Oldsarge

Drop the denim and I'm in! I'd match denim shirt with a corduroy coat but not like this.


----------



## Oldsarge

Tweed for serious cold.


----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> Tweed for serious cold.
> 
> View attachment 38816


Paraphrasing the iconic, but fictional Forrest Gump, "Like Jenny and me, Tweed and Corduroy go together like peas and carrots." Always a great combination!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 38839


I want to like the outfit, but I don't know - the sweater has an almost metallic cast and tucking it in doesn't really work. Also, his concaving posture is throwing it all off.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> I want to like the outfit, but I don't know - the sweater has an almost metallic cast and tucking it in doesn't really work. Also, his concaving posture is throwing it all off.


Bang on! His posture is terrible and I don't see tucking in a cable knit sweater, ever. However, the coat is nice . . .


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Tweed for serious cold.
> 
> View attachment 38816


Sorry, just something wrong about this coat and the ensemble. :icon_scratch: 


Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 38818


Outstanding!

Would love it!


----------



## Flanderian

Luca says, *CIAO!!! *


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ The coat feels very '30s Apparel Arts.


----------



## Oldsarge

The stubble, very 70's television.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ The coat feels very '30s Apparel Arts.


Good eye, as the same DNA runs through both.

The fashion of Apparel Arts was influenced, if not created, from the lines of 1930's English bespoke cutting. A devotee of this style with exquisite taste was Gennaro Rubinacci, and in 1932 he founded London House to introduce this style of clothing to Naples, and create a tailoring tradition different from elsewhere in Italy, but availing itself of Italy's many fine tailors.

In 1963 his son Mariano changed the name of the business to Rubinacci, and so it continues to produce beautiful clothing, now under the direction of Mariano's son, Luca.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 38861


I'd easily love half of those made up into something! :beer:


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> I'd easily love half of those made up into something! :beer:


I've never had a custom-made anything, but have made a bunch of MTM things. In the MTM world, the swatches are small - usually on cards about the size of an index card. I imagine, when you go custom, you get to see big bolts of fabric.

That would really make a difference as everything from the true effect of the pattern to how the light plays on the material is much easier to tell with a large amount of fabric than on those small index cards.

It's a big negative for MTM that you are choosing from such a small piece of material.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> I've never had a custom-made anything, but have made a bunch of MTM things. In the MTM world, the swatches are small - usually on cards about the size of an index card. I imagine, when you go custom, you get to see big bolts of fabric.
> 
> That would really make a difference as everything from the true effect of the pattern to how the light plays on the material is much easier to tell with a large amount of fabric than on those small index cards.
> 
> It's a big negative for MTM that you are choosing from such a small piece of material.


Well, I've only had one 'bespoke' suit made and the majority of my other suits and jackets are MTM. So, I don't think I'm really in a position to be judgmental. However, I admit to being able to spend hour happily thumbing through swatch books. Whether I'd be as cheerful climbing shelves of bolts, I don't know.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> Well, I've only had one 'bespoke' suit made and the majority of my other suits and jackets are MTM. So, I don't think I'm really in a position to be judgmental. However, I admit to being able to spend hour happily thumbing through swatch books. Whether I'd be as cheerful climbing shelves of bolts, I don't know.


I agree - I am quite grateful to have been able to buy MTM. Like you, I've enjoyed going through the swatch books, but I did find I was sometimes surprised by the result when I saw what this or that small square of fabric looked like when made into a suit or sport coat. As noted, sometimes the pattern, color, texture or drape was significantly different in a full garment than in that little square.

Over the years, a few of the tailors I've used also do custom and, while I never availed myself of that service, I did look through their bolts of fabric. IMO, it is a better way to pick a material as you can see and feel how it will look in a finished garment more accurately than from a small square.

I will now shut up about this very first-world problem.


----------



## FiscalDean

Fading Fast said:


> I agree - I am quite grateful to have been able to buy MTM. Like you, I've enjoyed going through the swatch books, but I did find I was sometimes surprised by the result when I saw what this or that small square of fabric looked like when made into a suit or sport coat. As noted, sometimes the pattern, color, texture or drape was significantly different in a full garment than in that little square.
> 
> Over the years, a few of the tailors I've used also do custom and, while I never availed myself of that service, I did look through their bolts of fabric. IMO, it is a better way to pick a material as you can see and feel how it will look in a finished garment more accurately than from a small square.
> 
> I will now shut up about this very first-world problem.


The MTM shop I use does have as wall of bolts but that pales in comparison to the options available in the swatch books. I've done one true bespoke suit, but the fabric selection was fairly similar to the MTM shop I've used.


----------



## Fading Fast

FiscalDean said:


> The MTM shop I use does have as wall of bolts but that pales in comparison to the options available in the swatch books. I've done one true bespoke suit, but the fabric selection was fairly similar to the MTM shop I've used.


When I was a young guy on Wall Street in the '80s, I went with one of the veteran traders when he was getting a custom made suit. The place was in an old factory (in the, then, sketchy, now, fashionable SoHo area of NYC) - wide and really worn plank wood floors, exploded brick walls, huge windows, etc.

It was all one very big open floor where you got measured in one area (with a few makeshift changing rooms), picked your fabric from huge bolts spread out over massive wood tables (with tailoring scissors, chalk and measuring tape everywhere) while you could see rows of seamstresses and tailors working in another area.

I remember a suit there cost about four times what a Brooks Brothers OTR suit did and the trader told me that this place was "reasonable" for custom because it wasn't fancy and everything was done right in one place.

To be sure, that was just one way to do custom - but it's kinda stayed in my mind all these years.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> When I was a young guy on Wall Street in the '80s, I went with one of the veteran traders when he was getting a custom made suit. The place was in an old factory (in the, then, sketchy, now, fashionable SoHo area of NYC) - wide and really worn plank wood floors, exploded brick walls, huge windows, etc.
> 
> It was all one very big open floor where you got measured in one area (with a few makeshift changing rooms), picked your fabric from huge bolts spread out over massive wood tables (with tailoring scissors, chalk and measuring tape everywhere) while you could see rows of seamstresses and tailors working in another area.
> 
> I remember a suit there cost about four times what a Brooks Brothers OTR suit did and the trader told me that this place was "reasonable" for custom because it wasn't fancy and everything was done right in one place.
> 
> To be sure, that was just one way to do custom - but it's kinda stayed in my mind all these years.


That seems like the way it should be, at least in the US. I'm not sure I approve of upscale shops on Saville Row. Think of the rent they have to pay!


----------



## FiscalDean

Fading Fast said:


> When I was a young guy on Wall Street in the '80s, I went with one of the veteran traders when he was getting a custom made suit. The place was in an old factory (in the, then, sketchy, now, fashionable SoHo area of NYC) - wide and really worn plank wood floors, exploded brick walls, huge windows, etc.
> 
> It was all one very big open floor where you got measured in one area (with a few makeshift changing rooms), picked your fabric from huge bolts spread out over massive wood tables (with tailoring scissors, chalk and measuring tape everywhere) while you could see rows of seamstresses and tailors working in another area.
> 
> I remember a suit there cost about four times what a Brooks Brothers OTR suit did and the trader told me that this place was "reasonable" for custom because it wasn't fancy and everything was done right in one place.
> 
> To be sure, that was just one way to do custom - but it's kinda stayed in my mind all these years.


It would be interesting to see if there are any tailor shops left like the one you visited in the 80's. My experience was in Chicago. At least they did all the work on premise.


----------



## Fading Fast

FiscalDean said:


> It would be interesting to see if there are any tailor shops left like the one you visited in the 80's. My experience was in Chicago. At least they did all the work on premise.


I'm guessing, if they do, they've all long since moved out of SoHo and the surrounding area as the rents would have demolished their business models. Since I don't do the custom-made thing, I don't know, but I certainly haven't heard of that type of model existing in and around the city anymore as real estate, even in the surrounding boroughs, has gotten crazy expensive since those years when parts of NYC and its boroughs still had some depressed areas.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 38878


A favored design to my eyes and the fabric pattern is certainly appealing. Bi-swing back, half belted and double vented...that is the stuff of wardrobe staples!


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 38878


I have 2 such jackets, off the peg, tailored, not MTM in houndstooth .

However some years ago I ordered a ready made Len Logsdale jacket that is very close in pattern to that, not a Norfolk. Very stout fabric, required quite a bit of tailoring. Is Mr. Logsdale still around and if so does anyone know if he still makes for Mr. Kudlow? I haven't kept up.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> A favored design to my eyes and the fabric pattern is certainly appealing. Bi-swing back, half belted and double vented...that is the stuff of wardrobe staples!





EclecticSr. said:


> I have 2 such jackets, off the peg, tailored, not MTM in houndstooth .
> 
> However some years ago I ordered a ready made Len Logsdale jacket that is very close in pattern to that, not a Norfolk. Very stout fabric, required quite a bit of tailoring. Is Mr. Logsdale still around and if so does anyone know if he still makes for Mr. Kudlow? I haven't kept up.


I agree - very classic. Away from Ralph Lauren, I can't think of any mainstream stores that still carry similar styles OTR. I know there are some boutique type of places - but RL is the only mainstream one I can think of.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> I agree - very classic. Away from Ralph Lauren, I can't think of any mainstream stores that still carry similar styles OTR. I know there are some boutique type of places - but RL is the only mainstream one I can think of.


I think some of the Shops in Great Britain may still carry such jackets off the peg, Cordings for one, perhaps others. Those I have are from such British shops, though not mainstream U.S shops.


----------



## Oldsarge

EclecticSr. said:


> I have 2 such jackets, off the peg, tailored, not MTM in houndstooth .
> 
> However some years ago I ordered a ready made Len Logsdale jacket that is very close in pattern to that, not a Norfolk. Very stout fabric, required quite a bit of tailoring. Is Mr. Logsdale still around and if so does anyone know if he still makes for Mr. Kudlow? I haven't kept up.


Last time I attended an SCI Convention, he was. The man is far from aged. Should I see him in Reno, next month, I'll try to remember to post the fact.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Oldsarge said:


> Last time I attended an SCI Convention, he was. The man is far from aged. Should I see him in Reno, next month, I'll try to remember to post the fact.


Glad to hear, though I am aged beyond repair. Maybe cryogenics!!!!


----------



## Mr Thorvald

Fading Fast said:


> When I was a young guy on Wall Street in the '80s, I went with one of the veteran traders when he was getting a custom made suit. The place was in an old factory (in the, then, sketchy, now, fashionable SoHo area of NYC) - wide and really worn plank wood floors, exploded brick walls, huge windows, etc.
> 
> It was all one very big open floor where you got measured in one area (with a few makeshift changing rooms), picked your fabric from huge bolts spread out over massive wood tables (with tailoring scissors, chalk and measuring tape everywhere) while you could see rows of seamstresses and tailors working in another area.
> 
> I remember a suit there cost about four times what a Brooks Brothers OTR suit did and the trader told me that this place was "reasonable" for custom because it wasn't fancy and everything was done right in one place.
> 
> To be sure, that was just one way to do custom - but it's kinda stayed in my mind all these years.


Mr. Greenberg in Brooklyn comes highly recommended. You can also occasionally find his stuff in ready to wear places like Freeman's. https://greenfieldclothiers.com/


----------



## Mr Thorvald

I bought two two-button herringbone tweed sport coats at Brooks Brothers outlet, one at the Tanger near Hilton Head, and one in Riverhead, NY. They are made of a soft italian tweed.

As someone who has spent time in Scotland, I subscribe to Mike Meyers's father's motto If it's not Scottish--it's CRAP! So I was a little hesitant, but the price was right--70% off. Both were under $90.

One was light grey, the other charcoal grey. the 38 was a little big for me. I believe this is the same model in the light grey: https://www.brooksbrothers.com/Regent-Fit-Harris-Tweed-Sport-Coat/MM00928,default,pd.html

Although I was lukewarm on them at first, after a few months of the cold weather I really like them.

They are softer than a Harris tweed or other Scottish tweed, but because they are soft and a bit large I can wear them with a V-neck sweater (I like the Barbour lamb's wool with the subtle Barbour logo on the chest--Sierra Trading Co has a deal on them--they were $110 at the Barbour store in Soho https://www.sierra.com/barbour-merino-wool-sweater-v-neck-for-men~p~798mk/?filterString=men~d~5284/barbour~b~2045/ ). I can wear the sport coats indoors and they are comfortable because they are not too stiff and thick.

I've heard debate over whether the Brooks Brothers outlet stores have the real stuff, or just second string brands. It looks to me like the real thing, at least over the past year. I had some bad experiences with the outlet stores in the past (remember the rectangular Brooks shirt labels with Brooks Brothers in script without the round logo--those were awful). But now the outlet stores seem to be selling the same thing as in the main stores.


----------



## StephenRG

Fading Fast said:


> When I was a young guy on Wall Street in the '80s


Did you ever buy shirts from the Custom Shop? That was my first exposure to custom shirts - it was almost a Wall Street requirement to go there - and the first and last time I had monogrammed shirts.


----------



## Fading Fast

StephenRG said:


> Did you ever buy shirts from the Custom Shop? That was my first exposure to custom shirts - it was almost a Wall Street requirement to go there - and the first and last time I had monogrammed shirts.


Absolutely - I worked at 120 Broadway and "The Custom Shop" was directly across the street. Looking back, I'd say it was a very robust MTM program, but we all thought it was custom (didn't understand the difference back then). I believe, you had to order a minimum of four.

And, yes, I had a diamond pattern monogram on my The Custom Shop shirt's cuff - I did what the older guys told me was the thing to do. I kid you not, I met a girl one night and she told me later, it was the shirt (and monogram) that sold her on going home with me - she said it looked to her like I was a "classy" man. You never know what will do it.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> You never know what will do it.


Utterly so. After Kathy and I had been married some 20-30 years, a co-worker of hers asked how we'd met and she told the other woman that she's seen me across the dorm lounge and decided, "I think I want that one." Whatever drove her to that decision I shall never know but remain eternally grateful.


----------



## EclecticSr.

I bought two two-button herringbone tweed sport coats at Brooks Brothers outlet, one at the Tanger near Hilton Head, and one in Riverhead, NY. They are made of a soft italian tweed. {QUOTE]

I lucked out at the Brooks outlet in their Pa. shop, the Crossings.. Picked up a beautiful houndstooth 
jacket 1818 regent fit full canvas. They had 4 or 5, luckily they had my size, required very little tailoring. Cost about $124.00 , that was about 5 or 6 years ago. Never ran into another bargain like that. 

My first venture in MTM shirts was at the Custom Shop, mid 1960's. They had several shops in Manhattan.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## EclecticSr.

I have, sans bellows pockets, doubtful of same make, Not a Norfolk. Having been one one who enjoyed the outdoors sports and still have desire to return to my favored haunts and I shall, I'm drawn to such garments. Not just for their utilitarian design but for their sense of style. I imagine much of this is lost to our youth today.


----------



## BillC

The brown herringbone is simply beautiful--verging on perfection.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I've never had a custom-made anything, but have made a bunch of MTM things. In the MTM world, the swatches are small - usually on cards about the size of an index card. I imagine, when you go custom, you get to see big bolts of fabric.
> 
> That would really make a difference as everything from the true effect of the pattern to how the light plays on the material is much easier to tell with a large amount of fabric than on those small index cards.
> 
> It's a big negative for MTM that you are choosing from such a small piece of material.


As I enjoy and value *all* your contributions and learn from them, please forgive me for taking issue with the use of the term "custom." It's very high up on my hate list because it's a nebulous term most commonly used to mislead and obfuscate the actual nature of the goods being sold. And it appears to have recently obtained similar currency in advertising with terms such as "designer "and "luxury."

While to some degree many sartorial terms are to a degree imprecise, the term bespoke most properly used denotes an item produced from scratch on a unique pattern for a specific individual and made to that individual's specification. And it seems lately that the term custom is being used almost universally to suggest it is synonymous with bespoke when it most certainly is not, and the goods to which it is applied are almost certainly not either. Essentially it is a nebulous advertising term that can be applied to anything with intention of _implying_ to the buyer that it is bespoke when it is not.

This term recently cropped up when a friend sought advice from me concerning Alan David Custom suits with the clear understanding that they were to have a bespoke suit made. Knowing the history of the use of this term, I was suspicious, but had no specific knowledge concerning the firm or their goods. The limited investigation I conducted strongly suggests that attempting to gain any clear understanding of the specific nature of those goods, and how they're produced is akin to attempting to grasp oil with one's hands.

OK, now that I've concluded my hissy-fit, on to the subject; when I had a small local Italian tailor who *did* cut suits individually for me, he had both bolts of cloth and swatch books. The books were from Scabal, etc., and contained swatches of cloth that were roughly 3" X 6". Obviously much superior to a small card with a postage stamp of cloth on it, I was able to visualize the finished garment as well from the swatches as from the bolts. And oddly, sometimes more easily.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 38910


Gorgeous cloth and jacket! 👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> As I enjoy and value *all* your contributions and learn from them, please forgive me for taking issue with the use of the term "custom." It's very high up on my hate list because it's a nebulous term most commonly used to mislead and obfuscate the actual nature of the goods being sold. And it appears to have recently obtained similar currency in advertising with terms such as "designer "and "luxury."
> 
> While to some degree many sartorial terms are to a degree imprecise, the term bespoke most properly used denotes an item produced from scratch on a unique pattern for a specific individual and made to that individual's specification. And it seems lately that the term custom is being used almost universally to suggest it is synonymous with bespoke when it most certainly is not, and the goods to which it is applied are almost certainly not either. Essentially it is a nebulous advertising term that can be applied to anything with intention of _implying_ to the buyer that it is bespoke when it is not.
> 
> This term recently cropped up when a friend sought advice from me concerning Alan David Custom suits with the clear understanding that they were to have a bespoke suit made. Knowing the history of the use of this term, I was suspicious, but had no specific knowledge concerning the firm or their goods. The limited investigation I conducted strongly suggests that attempting to gain any clear understanding of the specific nature of those goods, and how they're produced is akin to attempting to grasp oil with one's hands.
> 
> OK, now that I've concluded my hissy-fit, on to the subject; when I had a small local Italian tailor who *did* cut suits individually for me, he had both bolts of cloth and swatch books. The books were from Scabal, etc., and contained swatches of cloth that were roughly 3" X 6". Obviously much superior to a small card with a postage stamp of cloth on it, I was able to visualize the finished garment as well from the swatches as from the bolts. And oddly, sometimes more easily.


I appreciate the education as, as I've noted often, I didn't grow up in that world and am always happy to learn - an expert on any of this I am not.

So let me ask, what does "custom" mean or is your point that it isn't a real tailoring term?


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> I appreciate the education as, as I've noted often, I didn't grow up in that world and am always happy to learn - an expert on any of this I am not.
> 
> So let me ask, what does "custom" mean or is your point that it isn't a real tailoring term?


It isn't a real tailoring term. There is Off The Rack (OTR), Made To Measure (MTM), and Bespoke. Both Bespoke and MTM are 'custom' but involved different levels of fitting. Almost anyone can get a truly fine suit or jacket from a competent MTM maker. Bespoke tailoring is either for the individual who is so out of the norm in physique (think the governator!) or simply has more money than they need so they decide to spend it on clothing. (The last is purely my editorializing.)


----------



## ran23

Walking today in 38F weather, I knew a Tweed jacket would be fine, but I grabbed a WWII Pea Coat to stay warm.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I appreciate the education as, as I've noted often, I didn't grow up in that world and am always happy to learn - an expert on any of this I am not.
> 
> So let me ask, what does "custom" mean or is your point that it isn't a real tailoring term?












_"When I use a *word*," Humpty Dumpty said, in rather a scornful tone, "it *means* just what I choose it to *mean*-neither more nor less." _



Oldsarge said:


> It isn't a real tailoring term. There is Off The Rack (OTR), Made To Measure (MTM), and Bespoke. Both Bespoke and MTM are 'custom' but involved different levels of fitting. Almost anyone can get a truly fine suit or jacket from a competent MTM maker. Bespoke tailoring is either for the individual who is so out of the norm in physique (think the governator!) or simply has more money than they need so they decide to spend it on clothing. (The last is purely my editorializing.)


I am not a tailor nor truly conversant with all relevant terms used by tailors, (Nor pretty much an expert in anything else! ) but feel comfortable in asserting it is not a technical term used by tailors to describe any specific process. Custom is really only a catch-all term used differently by different individuals to mean different things. Might a fine tailor describe their one-off creation of fine tailoring for a specific individual as custom? Sure! He might elect to use it because it has broader public appeal through its constant repetition in advertising. But it also might be used by anyone to describe many other things.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## momsdoc

Cross post


----------



## Flanderian

momsdoc said:


> Cross post
> 
> View attachment 38966
> 
> 
> View attachment 38967


Outstanding!

Perhaps it's that exceptional green tweed, but the aesthetic of your handsome ensemble feels just a little like Christopher Plummer's Capt. Von Trapp in a good way.


----------



## Winhes2

momsdoc said:


> Cross post
> 
> View attachment 38966
> 
> 
> View attachment 38967


That's some jacket. Nice ensemble.


----------



## Fading Fast

It's nice ⇩ , but not as nice as @momsdoc IRL one (⇧ a few posts up):


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> It's nice ⇩ , but not as nice as @momsdoc IRL one (⇧ a few posts up):
> View attachment 38972


Beautiful cloth! 👍


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Beautiful cloth! 👍


I have to admit, I'm a cheap date, just give me some herringbone.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I have to admit, I'm a cheap date, just give me some herringbone.


:laughing: 👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

I certainly hope that lovely video of Stumper & Fielding was a Boxing Day sale and not a 'going out of business'! What a charming store. I guess the next time I'm in London . . .


----------



## Cassadine

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 38910


That's nice and crisp. Magnificent.


----------



## Cassadine

Flanderian said:


> Great cloth, though I'd select different things otherwise. The shirt's OK, but grey shirts aren't anything I can wear, but more significantly, IMHO anytime you can select a grey shirt, there's usually a better choice anyway. The tie does nothing, and the PS just subverts the cloth while technically matching.
> 
> But I'm being picky, as it's far better than much to be seen. I'm just disappointed that there are unrealized better choices.
> 
> View attachment 38681


I think the tie works. But I'm with you on the pocket square.


----------



## 215339

All Spier & Mackay MTM commissions from TOF.

If/when I revisit Toronto with a decent income, I'm definitely doing this.


----------



## momsdoc

Now I need a half Norfolk.


----------



## 215339

momsdoc said:


> Now I need a half Norfolk.


I want a summer version in cotton khaki or olive, I'd be able to wear that 3-4 seasons considering how hot I run. Tweed is basically outerwear for me, not something I can wear inside.

Smushing together some details of those two coats:

- Plain triple patch pocket
-3r2
-Half-Belt
-Bi-swing back or reverse pleat (likely the latter, I can't imagine the former laying very clean).


----------



## Oldsarge

delicious_scent said:


> I want a summer version in cotton khaki or olive, I'd be able to wear that 3-4 seasons considering how hot I run. Tweed is basically outerwear for me, not something I can wear inside.
> 
> Smushing together some details of those two coats:
> 
> - Plain triple patch pocket
> -3r2
> -Half-Belt
> -Bi-swing back or reverse pleat (likely the latter, I can't imagine the former laying very clean).


Yanno, I did that. It's great in the shoulder seasons but come summer? Hawaiian shirts and shorts for me!


----------



## 215339

Oldsarge said:


> Yanno, I did that. It's great in the shoulder seasons but come summer? Hawaiian shirts and shorts for me!


Have any pictures?

Yeah I could never wear that during any real heat.

I've been looking for one or two pairs of shorts in the summer. It's tougher dressing well in the summer with less layers, so I look for interesting details in shirts and trousers/shorts.

I like this one, but some part of me is principally against $150+ shorts.

These Peterman shorts seem like a steal though

You wear any particular kind of shorts?


----------



## Oldsarge

delicious_scent said:


> Have any pictures?
> 
> Yeah I could never wear that during any real heat.
> 
> I've been looking for one or two pairs of shorts in the summer. It's tougher dressing well in the summer with less layers, so I look for interesting details in shirts and trousers/shorts.
> 
> I like this one, but some part of me is principally against $150+ shorts.
> 
> These Peterman shorts seem like a steal though
> 
> You wear any particular kind of shorts?


I strongly tend to get my shorts from L.L Bean. Alternatively, there is always Sportif, who I have also patronized for a couple of decades. There is much to be said for trousers, long or short. that adjust to one's fluctuating waistline.


----------



## 215339

Oldsarge said:


> I strongly tend to get my shorts from L.L Bean. Alternatively, there is always Sportif, who I have also patronized for a couple of decades. There is much to be said for trousers, long or short. that adjust to one's fluctuating waistline.


Never thought I'd be buying cargo shorts, but both websites carry some very nice looking examples.

Stretch waistbands I love. It's not fun at the end of the day when you're bloated to hell and there is no give.


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 38997


Your video tour of Stumper & Fielding strikes me as a British version of O'Connell's...with perhaps, a bit more dust added fro character! Very enjoyable tour..Thank you.


----------



## Fading Fast

....with perhaps, a bit more dust added fro character!...
[/QUOTE]

Nicely said.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 39019


He needs either a bamboo fly rod or a fine hammered double gun.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> He needs either a bamboo fly rod or a fine hammered double gun.


Agreed, I felt a bit of a "A River Runs Through It" vibe.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 39019


Magnificent! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## EclecticSr.

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 39021


Nicely put together but I think a tie in the brown family would help break up all the blue.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

EclecticSr. said:


> Nicely put together but I think a tie in the brown family would help break up all the blue.


But with the same pattern, surely!


----------



## Flanderian

A gorgeous Donegal Tweed 3-piece at the Armoury from Musella Dembech which last I knew are bespoke makers from Milan.

Beautiful classic cut and proportions! Poetry in cloth! :loveyou:


__
https://did%3Dee0190a90cdb399ca5edbfb833bf223e5a7c2286%3Bid%3D190285397575%3Bkey%3D5sLBfPphWBFvdZlA_9i4KA%3Bname%3Dthearmoury


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 39030


I like it (other than the, probably intentionally haphazard vest buttoning), but today you'd need either the exact perfect event or a ton of confidence to wear that suit. Now in the '30s, you'd have fit right in.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 39049


Nice coat, for sure. I am one who prefers raglan sleeve designs. Interesting choice of tote bags...it appears to be a repurposed nylon pilot's helmet bag. They can be had, for a song, at your local Army/Navy store! Makes a great tote bag and are arguably, very manly!


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Nice coat, for sure. I am one who prefers raglan sleeve designs. Interesting choice of tote bags...it appears to be a repurposed nylon pilot's helmet bag. They can be had, for a song, at your local Army/Navy store! Makes a great tote bag and are arguably, very manly!


I'm a raglan sleeve man myself (tried to do a play on words to the Nick Notle line in "48 Hours," "I'm a rag-top man," but it kept getting clunkier the harder I tried, so I just gave up ).


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Bottom pic, wonderful tweed and corduroy combo.


----------



## Fading Fast

A bonus tweed pic for game day. Not too many will dress like him ⇩ at today's tailgate parties.








Note her Polo coat.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## vonSuess

Fading Fast said:


> I like it (other than the, probably intentionally haphazard vest buttoning), but today you'd need either the exact perfect event or a ton of confidence to wear that suit. Now in the '30s, you'd have fit right in.


I'd certainly wear a suit like that. With the right shoes, shirt, tie, pocket square and hat it would be a great look...


----------



## momsdoc

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 39073
> 
> 
> A bonus tweed pic for game day. Not too many will dress like him ⇩ at today's tailgate parties.
> View attachment 39074
> 
> Note her Polo coat.


My first impression of that green tweed coat was, ooh! Action back, bellows pockets, where's the back half belt to finish it off?


----------



## Fading Fast

I love the heavy brown (with some speckling) tweed, but IMO, wouldn't pair it with that summery shirt.


----------



## mreams99

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 39049


I like this coat a lot.
I noticed that he's wearing a lot of rings, like he won a bunch of Super Bowl games.


----------



## Oldsarge

mreams99 said:


> I like this coat a lot.
> I noticed that he's wearing a lot of rings, like he won a bunch of Super Bowl games.


Probably at Piti Uomo.


----------



## Fading Fast

mreams99 said:


> I like this coat a lot.
> I noticed that he's wearing a lot of rings, like he won a bunch of Super Bowl games.


If so, I'm guessing place kicker.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge

Omigawd!


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Really nice material

⇩ Not sure it's tweed, but good looking texture to the material


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Really nice material
> 
> ⇩ Not sure it's tweed, but good looking texture to the material
> View attachment 39164


A great jacket, but the pocket square selected and/or perhaps the folding approach is arguably lame...maybe if they poofed it? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> A great jacket, but the pocket square selected and/or perhaps the folding approach is arguably lame...maybe if they poofed it? :icon_scratch:


I agree, but in truth, 99% of the time, especially with Tweed, I'd vote for no PS at all. Tweed is rough with outdoor/sports/working roots - it doesn't harmonize with the twee of the PS.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> I agree, but in truth, 99% of the time, especially with Tweed, I'd vote for no PS at all. Tweed is rough with outdoor/sports/working roots - it doesn't harmonize with the twee of the PS.


Perhaps with tweed a PS of honest handkerchief fabric, you know the red and white or blue and white ones would be more appropriate. Something you can wipe your shooting glasses with.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> Perhaps with tweed a PS of honest handkerchief fabric, you know the red and white or blue and white ones would be more appropriate. Something you can wipe your shooting glasses with.
> 
> View attachment 39165


There's a functional logic to that.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> I agree, but in truth, 99% of the time, especially with Tweed, I'd vote for no PS at all. Tweed is rough with outdoor/sports/working roots - it doesn't harmonize with the twee of the PS.


As much as I, usually agree with Fading, I must disagree with the PS issue in this case with tweed. I find it rare occasion that a PS would be out of place, though there are such. I wear rough textured PS with tweeds, ----wool, rough silks and challis for example. Somber tweeds sometime need a pop of color.
I get the outdoors sports associated with t some tweeds, I think they can benefit from a touch of color, otherwise what would I do with the countless squares I have:loveyou:


----------



## Fading Fast

EclecticSr. said:


> As much as I, usually agree with Fading, I must disagree with the PS issue in this case with tweed. I find it rare occasion that a PS would be out of place, though there are such. I wear rough textured PS with tweeds, ----wool, rough silks and challis for example. Somber tweeds sometime need a pop of color.
> I get the outdoors sports associated with t some tweeds, I think they can benefit from a touch of color, otherwise what would I do with the countless squares I have:loveyou:


If you're going to wear a PS with tweed, I like your approach.

I fully admit, I'm just not a PS guy. But I don't believe "I'm right, you're wrong," it just my opinion.

I do like a white "TV fold" one with a conservative suit, but most of the time, they just don't look good to my eye.

I appreciate your concern about PS use as I think the same problem is coming to neckties.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> If you're going to wear a PS with tweed, I like your approach.
> 
> I fully admit, I'm just not a PS guy. But I don't believe "I'm right, you're wrong," it just my opinion.
> 
> I do like a white "TV fold" one with a conservative suit, but most of the time, they just don't look good to my eye.
> 
> I appreciate your concern about PS use as I think the same problem is coming to neckties.


Yes, I worry that the reduction in necktie (and PS) use will push us into a drabber, more slovenly world.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Really nice material
> 
> ⇩ Not sure it's tweed, but good looking texture to the material
> View attachment 39164


YOWZER! :happy:


----------



## Flanderian

A Fast Forward special!?


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ A raglan-sleeve, black-and-white herringbone overcoat - I'm in.


----------



## Fading Fast

The pattern is too much for me personally (especially as a suit - could see it as my "loudest" sport coat), but I love the details of what I see such as the attached throat latch, "pleated" breast pocket and reasonable suit-jacket lapel width and a lapel on the waistcoat.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> If you're going to wear a PS with tweed, I like your approach.
> 
> I fully admit, I'm just not a PS guy. But I don't believe "I'm right, you're wrong," it just my opinion.
> 
> I do like a white "TV fold" one with a conservative suit, but most of the time, they just don't look good to my eye.
> 
> I appreciate your concern about PS use as I think the same problem is coming to neckties.


I fully understand and that's what makes this sartorial carousel go round. Nor was was it my intention to discard your opinion , but to politely disagree . You may be right about neckties as well, as I see the eschewing of proper dress. I just hope it is delayed long enough for me to not have to witness it's total demise.


Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 39187
> 
> The pattern is too much for me personally (especially as a suit - could see it as my "loudest" sport coat), but I love the details of what I see such as the attached throat latch, "pleated" breast pocket and reasonable suit-jacket lapel width and a lapel on the waistcoat.


I agree, not as a suit but an odd jacket with matching waistcoat, change out the tie and PS, I could be in. It would be pushing it to the limits, but hey, in my foul moments (rare as they may be) I would risk it.


----------



## Oldsarge

Agreed. The jacket by itself is smashing but unless one was seven feet tall, it's too much for a suit.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 39187
> 
> The pattern is too much for me personally (especially as a suit - could see it as my "loudest" sport coat), but I love the details of what I see such as the attached throat latch, "pleated" breast pocket and reasonable suit-jacket lapel width and a lapel on the waistcoat.


I like the tweed, but it's got too many bells and whistles for such a vivid pattern. I.e. bellows, patch breast pocket, throat latch, etc. And I'd select different accessories and just allow that tweed to take center stage as it's demanding.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Now that is a handsome tweed suit. 

I like the overcoat too, but it's too short for my taste. 

In particular, I think a double breasted overcoat needs the length to balance out.


----------



## Fading Fast

I saw (in the background, sound on mute) the 1940 movie "Escape" yesterday where Robert Taylor spends half the movie in an incredible Tweed "reversible" overcoat (the "other" side is some sort of water repellent cotton, I'm guessing). It's got raglan sleeves and the Tweed is super heavy looking and is in a bold herringbone pattern.

Surprisingly, despite being in most of the movie, I struggled to find good pics. In addition to the below not-great two pics, the the coat shows up in the movie's trailer:
















⇩ The trailer, the coat makes an appearance at 1:30 for about 20 seconds:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I saw (in the background, sound on mute) the 1940 movie "Escape" yesterday where Robert Taylor spends half the movie in an incredible Tweed "reversible" overcoat (the "other" side is some sort of water repellent cotton, I'm guessing). It's got raglan sleeves and the Tweed is super heavy looking and is in a bold herringbone pattern.
> 
> Surprisingly, despite being in most of the movie, I struggled to find good pics. In addition to the below not-great two pics, the the coat shows up in the movie's trailer:
> View attachment 39228
> View attachment 39229
> 
> 
> ⇩ The trailer, the coat makes an appearance at 1:30 for about 20 seconds:


Ah, tweed in motion! Robert Taylor + tweed =


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Ah, tweed in motion! Robert Taylor + tweed =


Agreed and the YouTube video didn't even do it justice. If you get TCM, keep an eye out for it as the film looked restored and the coat was fantastic. In close-ups, you could see the pattern and texture clearly.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Agreed and the YouTube video didn't even do it justice. If you get TCM, keep an eye out for it as the film looked restored and the coat was fantastic. In close-ups, you could see the pattern and texture clearly.


Will do, thanks!


----------



## Oldsarge

Prewoven tweed










post-woven tweed


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> I saw (in the background, sound on mute) the 1940 movie "Escape" yesterday where Robert Taylor spends half the movie in an incredible Tweed "reversible" overcoat (the "other" side is some sort of water repellent cotton, I'm guessing). It's got raglan sleeves and the Tweed is super heavy looking and is in a bold herringbone pattern.
> 
> Surprisingly, despite being in most of the movie, I struggled to find good pics. In addition to the below not-great two pics, the the coat shows up in the movie's trailer:
> View attachment 39228
> View attachment 39229
> 
> 
> ⇩ The trailer, the coat makes an appearance at 1:30 for about 20 seconds:


Some years ago I purchased a RL reversible coat similar to one depicted on Taylor. Wore it once and 
gave it to my brother. Nice enough coat when worn tweed out, the reverse acted like velcro if wearing a tweed odd jacket.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Tweed's so nice, and colors and textures paired so well, that I'll almost forgive the cliched un-buttoned BD.

Almost!


----------



## Fading Fast

I like this as it takes a very old-school looking item - a two-color, large-scale houndstooth sport coat - and balances the outfit out nicely with the dark sweater and denim shirt resulting in a more-modern feel overall. Basically, the same idea as what Redford did with his tweed sport coat in "Three Days of the Condor."


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I like this as it takes a very old-school looking item - a two-color, large-scale houndstooth sport coat - and balances the outfit out nicely with the dark sweater and denim shirt resulting in a more-modern feel overall. Basically, the same idea as what Redford did with his tweed sport coat in "Three Days of the Condor."
> View attachment 39258


Lovely, and it does!

But I see a plethora of colors in that lovely tweed. 👍


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Lovely, and it does!
> 
> But I see a plethora of colors in that lovely tweed. 👍


My five-year-old MacBook Air screen shows two colors, which means absolute nothing  - I'm sure you're right.

I'm just waiting for this MacBook to die or for Apple to say it won't be releasing software updates for it anymore and then I'll get a new one.

Every computer I've owned has died in a 4-6yr window, so this one is about due.

*AAAC Editor's Note*: Fading Fast, regarding your earlier post, you've been warned before, but you cannot continue to randomly bring up Robert Redford's outfit from "Three Days of the Condor -" enough! We also have you on a watch list for irrelevant references to Steve McQueen's outfit from "Bullitt." We can revoke your membership. Have a good day - the Editors at AAAC


----------



## Fading Fast

I'm not convinced that Fair Isle works with the jacket as the jacket has a "blue" (or at least not brown / earthy) tint to it (some grays lean blue, some oatmeal/brown, IMO), so, I think the vest's brown background isn't great with the jacket.

That said, I applaud the effort and, maybe in person, it does work as somethings work IRL despite not working "on paper" or in a small pic. The tie and shirt look great. I'd lose the PS because 1. I'm rarely a fan and 2. there's more than enough punch and color from the sweater vest.


----------



## David J. Cooper

Is that the TH logo sort of hidden in the pattern?


----------



## Fading Fast

David J. Cooper said:


> Is that the TH logo sort of hidden in the pattern?


Now that you said it - looks like it. Before you said that, I did think that "flag-ish" design looked a bit odd, but I think you nailed the answer.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 39278
> 
> I'm not convinced that Fair Isle works with the jacket as the jacket has a "blue" (or at least not brown / earthy) tint to it (some grays lean blue, some oatmeal/brown, IMO), so, I think the vest's brown background isn't great with the jacket.
> 
> That said, I applaud the effort and, maybe in person, it does work as somethings work IRL despite not working "on paper" or in a small pic. The tie and shirt look great. I'd lose the PS because 1. I'm rarely a fan and 2. there's more than enough punch and color from the sweater vest.


Here's a case where I can partially agree about PS. I would ditch the sweater and find a more suitable, color wise, PS. I have a JPress jacket I would say is identical to that and would never use that combo. Not a big fan of fair isle sweaters. The only thing that works for me is the shirt.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 39278
> 
> I'm not convinced that Fair Isle works with the jacket as the jacket has a "blue" (or at least not brown / earthy) tint to it (some grays lean blue, some oatmeal/brown, IMO), so, I think the vest's brown background isn't great with the jacket.
> 
> That said, I applaud the effort and, maybe in person, it does work as somethings work IRL despite not working "on paper" or in a small pic. The tie and shirt look great. I'd lose the PS because 1. I'm rarely a fan and 2. there's more than enough punch and color from the sweater vest.


Over the top, and extroverted, but a brilliant exercise. IMHO, if someone really wanted to make this wearable, substituting a solid PS would calm it down enough for me.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## 215339

Knives Out


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 39293


⇧ An excellent example of the rule we've noted before: a good Tweed overcoat should also be able to do double duty as a heavy winter blanket.

And I really like that tie.


----------



## eagle2250

delicious_scent said:


> Knives Out


I been waiting for the DVD to come out to see that movie, but your pics just made the wait a bit more difficult!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

G. The Bruce: *RAMPAGE! irate:








*


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ I like the sport coat and the knit tie looks awesome with it. I'd have just gone with a solid shirt as the sport coat brings enough amperage for the entire outfit.

⇩ For today's viewing pleasure


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ I like the sport coat and the knit tie looks awesome with it. I'd have just gone with a solid shirt as the sport coat brings enough amperage for the entire outfit.
> 
> ⇩ For today's viewing pleasure
> View attachment 39340


A really nice jacket design bit the fit in the shoulders seems a bit off. Also, is that jacket fitted with a center or side vents? Ever time I look at at I change my mind. :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> A really nice jacket design bit the fit in the shoulders seems a bit off. Also, is that jacket fitted with a center or side vents? Ever time I look at at I change my mind. :icon_scratch:


Agree on both - shoulders are off and it has side vents. A great example of a jacket needing a better tailor.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> Agree on both - shoulders are off and it has side vents. A great example of a jacket needing a better tailor.


 Or possibly a better model.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ I like the sport coat and the knit tie looks awesome with it. I'd have just gone with a solid shirt as the sport coat brings enough amperage for the entire outfit.
> 
> ⇩ For today's viewing pleasure
> View attachment 39340


Lovely jacket!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 39373


You're joking, right?


----------



## Fading Fast

EclecticSr. said:


> You're joking, right?


I just put items up for discussion; I'm not endorsing each one. I've made some pretty critical comments of many items I've posted. This one said "Harris Tweed vest" so I put it up here.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> I just put items up for discussion; I'm not endorsing each one. I've made some pretty critical comments of many items I've posted. This one said "Harris Tweed vest" so I put it up here.


I know, my post was meant to be in good nature and that is a nice vest.


----------



## Fading Fast

EclecticSr. said:


> I know, my post was meant to be in good nature and that is a nice vest.


Oh, got it. I thought you really hated it. Glad you like it. It looked to me like a pretty classic HT vest, so I was surprised when I thought you actively disliked it. It's nicely tailored too.


----------



## David J. Cooper

It is a very nice tweed vest. At first look I thought the model was wearing his pants 90s rapper style. Now I see it is on a mannequin.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> Oh, got it. I thought you really hated it. Glad you like it. It looked to me like a pretty classic HT vest, so I was surprised when I thought you actively disliked it. It's nicely tailored too.


My post was targeted toward the sloppy display of the shirt at the base of the mannequin. Love the vest.
I should have been more definitive, I see how it could be misconstrued. My apologizes.


----------



## irish95

Fading Fast said:


> My five-year-old MacBook Air screen shows two colors, which means absolute nothing  - I'm sure you're right.
> 
> I'm just waiting for this MacBook to die or for Apple to say it won't be releasing software updates for it anymore and then I'll get a new one.
> 
> Every computer I've owned has died in a 4-6yr window, so this one is about due.
> 
> *AAAC Editor's Note*: Fading Fast, regarding your earlier post, you've been warned before, but you cannot continue to randomly bring up Robert Redford's outfit from "Three Days of the Condor -" enough! We also have you on a watch list for irrelevant references to Steve McQueen's outfit from "Bullitt." We can revoke your membership. Have a good day - the Editors at AAAC


Keep the movie reference going, it's the reason I bought my first tweed coat. As I've mentioned before in response to FF's posts, that was my go to outfit in my 20's and continues to this day on casual weekend nights. A pair of jeans, sweater, button down and tweed coat.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> ⇩ For today's viewing pleasure
> View attachment 39340


The shoulder's not off. It's a spaaaala comeetcha (I speaks the eye-talian by the way), in which the tippy top of the sleeve is gathered before sewing in. If you're referencing the shoulder bump, we Earth people tend to have those, blades, which show more on unstructured stuff. Like this a lot. The Peak is partial to hard threes.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 39426


Love the cloth! :happy:

Would need to work on the fit and accessories.


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Love the cloth! :happy:
> 
> Would need to work on the fit and accessories.


Boy, that's for sure. The shirt and tie pin are totally inappropriate for that cut of jacket. And IMO, his sleeves are too long. Standing up straight would also be an improvement.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Love the cloth! :happy:
> 
> Would need to work on the fit and accessories.





Oldsarge said:


> Boy, that's for sure. The shirt and tie pin are totally inappropriate for that cut of jacket. And IMO, his sleeves are too long. Standing up straight would also be an improvement.


Agreed and agreed - just afraid what will happen if he breathes out or eats, well, anything.


----------



## Oldsarge

Again, lovely cloth and quite a nice wool tie and jumper but that shirt and tie pin are absurd. Who dresses these poor gentlemen?


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Oh, that's nice and didn't happen by accident. Somebody put some real thought into that one.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 39439
> 
> 
> Again, lovely cloth and quite a nice wool tie and jumper but that shirt and tie pin are absurd. Who dresses these poor gentlemen?





Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Oh, that's nice and didn't happen by accident. Somebody put some real thought into that one.


I want the sweater! Actually had a very similar one, but it, Ah-hm, shrunk!


----------



## Flanderian

Not for the faint of heart! :happy:


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Not for the faint of heart! :happy:
> 
> View attachment 39444


Really! I love color but that's over the top even for me.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> I want the sweater! Actually had a very similar one, but it, Ah-hm, shrunk!


Not exact, but in the same family:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/556284...slipover-2747-0001-f84?ref=shop_home_active_1


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 39426


In use, a tweed needs airspace between the layering to provide a comfortable and most efficient fit. If the jacket fit properly, that patch of sweater showing at the bottom wouldn't be showing. I do love the fabric pattern.


----------



## Fading Fast

And for something completely different:


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 39451
> 
> 
> And for something completely different:
> View attachment 39452


Switch out the PS for something with a bit more color and a tie of non plaid, and I'm in. I'mm afraid that on certain days sitting on that chair I would become invisible.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 39451
> 
> 
> And for something completely different:
> View attachment 39452


A handsome Tweed jacket and a beautiful 'three season' easy chair, for sure!


----------



## Peak and Pine

EclecticSr. said:


> I'm afraid that on certain days sitting on that chair I would become invisible.


Chuckle.

My turn:

"If I were sitting in that chair it would smell like pee." _ Scratch._

"If I were sitting in that chair it would be covered in Pringle dust." _Meh._

"If I were sitting in that chair I'd look like I was 75 because I I look like I'm 75 whether I'm sitting in that chair or not.*" _Keeper.
* 5 days to go._


----------



## EclecticSr.

Peak and Pine said:


> Chuckle.
> 
> My turn:
> 
> "If I were sitting in that chair it would smell like pee." _ Scratch._
> 
> "If I were sitting in that chair it would be covered in Pringle dust." _Meh._
> 
> "If I were sitting in that chair I'd look like I was 75 because I I look like I'm 75 whether I'm sitting in that chair or not.*" _Keeper.
> * 5 days to go._


Okay, I'll try. I am turning 80 and told I do not look a day over 60. They card me at checkout to prove I'm a senile citizen to get the senior discount which by the way, I don't request  . Does that not beat all? I'm not sure of Pringle dust in my case but, cobwebs maybe!


----------



## Fading Fast

EclecticSr. said:


> Switch out the PS for something with a bit more color and a tie of non plaid, and I'm in. I'mm afraid that on certain days sitting on that chair I would become invisible.


If it wasn't for my girlfriend, every chair, sofa, etc., that we have would be leather. It looks good and looks better as it ages and shows its wear; everything else needs to be cleaned, replaced, scotch-gaurded, reupholstered, etc., while leather just gets better.

I'd keep the sport coat and sweater and pretty much swap everything else out.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> If it wasn't for my girlfriend, every chair, sofa, etc., that we have would be leather. It looks good and looks better as it ages and shows its wear; everything else needs to be cleaned, replaced, scotch-gaurded, reupholstered, etc., while leather just gets better.
> 
> I'd keep the sport coat and sweater and pretty much swap everything else out.


Ah leather, a snifter of fine cognac, the aroma of leather and mahogany or walnut, my favorite, a decent cigar, tho I gave up tobacco 15 years ago and I'm drawn back in time to better days.

I have pledged, if I make it to 90 I will gladly resume the pleasure of tobacco. You would be surprised at how many have offered up the admonishment, Quote " are you crazy? What would you be trying to do , Kill yourself." ........ Duh? At 90 who gives a ( ....). I would bet I get another 5 years at least before I buy the farm. Pity me!


----------



## Oldsarge

My Uncle Joe Distasso smoked brandy soaked Italian cigars up until the doctor told him to quit . . . at about 80. He finally died at 99.


----------



## FiscalDean

Oldsarge said:


> My Uncle Joe Distasso smoked brandy soaked Italian cigars up until the doctor told him to quit . . . at about 80. He finally died at 99.


Did he give up the habit when the doctor told him to?


----------



## Oldsarge

FiscalDean said:


> Did he give up the habit when the doctor told him to?


He did, though why, I'm not sure. I mean, once you've reached 80 . . .


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

Love to have this as part of a three piece suit.


----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 39501


Bullet proof Tweed, for sure and in this instance it is pretty darned handsome to boot.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 39501





Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 39507
> 
> Love to have this as part of a three piece suit.


*Serious* tweed!


----------



## Flanderian

More Neapolitan inspired bespoke with Seoul! :loveyou:


----------



## Flanderian

Real Tweed Men never go hungry! irate:


----------



## irish95

Peak and Pine said:


> Chuckle.
> 
> My turn:
> 
> "If I were sitting in that chair it would smell like pee." _ Scratch._
> 
> "If I were sitting in that chair it would be covered in Pringle dust." _Meh._
> 
> "If I were sitting in that chair I'd look like I was 75 because I I look like I'm 75 whether I'm sitting in that chair or not.*" _Keeper.
> * 5 days to go._


So the the Peak and Pine is meant to distract us? It's P and P? I've always enjoyed your posts, now I'm not so sure.


----------



## Oldsarge

Traditional old tweed cloth was fulled with urine.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Real Tweed Men never go hungry! irate:
> 
> View attachment 39529


Finally, a pocket square I like.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> Finally, a pocket square I like.


One that serves double duty


----------



## Fading Fast

EclecticSr. said:


> One that serves double duty


My girlfriend is an insanely good baker (really, cook overall) and usually makes a ton of different Christmas cookies each year, but with three elderly and sick parents between us, there was all but no time this year.

However, just to keep the tradition going and to bring a bit of joy to a tough time for the family, she made only two kinds, one of which was a gingerbread man as she knows how much I enjoy them (and how much they just say "Christmas" to us).

So, to your point, the downside to that pocket square: it would have a short life.


----------



## Fading Fast

Inspired by Old Sarge's recent post:









And a cool pic:


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> My girlfriend is an insanely good baker (really, cook overall) and usually makes a ton of different Christmas cookies each year, but with three elderly and sick parents between us, there was all but no time this year.
> 
> However, just to keep the tradition going and to bring a bit of joy to a tough time for the family, she made only two kinds, one of which was a gingerbread man as she knows how much I enjoy them (and how much they just say "Christmas" to us).
> 
> So, to your point, the downside to that pocket square: it would have a short life.


Same in our household. The wife loves to bake and a good cook to boot, however when it comes to more specialized dishes she will defer to me. She has though cut back in recent years, it gets tough..

Having gone through some of the same issues you might be experiencing, I can certainly sympathize.
My sincere wishes that all turns out well.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Inspired by Old Sarge's recent post:
> View attachment 39556
> 
> 
> And a cool pic:
> View attachment 39557


Serious tweed! :icon_cheers:

Those trousers might do in the arctic!


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Serious tweed! :icon_cheers:
> 
> Those trousers might do in the arctic!


Certainly the bee's knees on a windy grouse moor!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 39585


Nice jacket, but I think I like the sweater even better!


----------



## Flanderian

School daze -


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Fabio says, "Ciao!" :beer:


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

I had posted a negative comment about the above, then deleted it after checking out who the person in the shopling-spree oufit was. Somewhat famous it seems in the world of dress-up fashion, making my ghost post off mark. (Had referred to him as a cubicle dweller let loose at Kohl's). Now knowing better, he deserves full throttle, but fill In your own blanks. Maybe begin with the patina of time, absent here in every stitch.


----------



## Fading Fast

I like the houndstooth bowtie a few pics up. Can't say I'd ever have a call or opportunity to wear it, but I still like it.

A reminder, pics are not endorsements, but are posted for others to see and, if inclined, comment:


----------



## EclecticSr.

Like the jacket and waistcoat individually, not sure it works for me combined. But sometime a photo can be deceiving, it may work up close in person. Overall nice look.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> I like the houndstooth bowtie a few pics up. Can't say I'd ever have a call or opportunity to wear it, but I still like it.
> 
> A reminder, pics are not endorsements, but are posted for others to see and, if inclined, comment:
> View attachment 39629


A master's symphony of textures for sure, but if worn in the wrong environment, a do it yourself kit for a full body heat rash. I do admire the aggressive approach to wardrobing, but frankly could never personally walk that path! LOL.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> A master's symphony of textures for sure, but if worn in the wrong environment, a do it yourself kit for a full body heat rash. I do admire the aggressive approach to wardrobing, but frankly could never personally walk that path! LOL.


Surprisingly, I think the shirt and sport coat kinda work together in an echoing and casual way, but the waistcoat and ascot seem out of place with the casual vibe of everything else.


----------



## Flanderian

*Really* like this cloth!


----------



## Flanderian

G. The Bruce Cuttin' Loose!


----------



## Oldsarge

Even with the scarf and tweed he looks cold.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## EclecticSr.

^^^ Nice.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 39657


Great jacket, well done! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Flanderian

I'd wish a lapel 1/4" - 1/2" narrower, and swap out those jeans, and I'm good to go!


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> I'd wish a lapel 1/4" - 1/2" narrower, and swap out those jeans, and I'm good to go!
> 
> View attachment 39665


If it's cold enough to wear those gloves, he should be wearing an overcoat, not just a sports jacket! I too cannot yet bring myself to pair blue jeans with a sport coat.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> If it's cold enough to wear those gloves, he should be wearing an overcoat, not just a sports jacket! I too cannot yet bring myself to pair blue jeans with a sport coat.


I'm sympathetic to his choice for the weather. I long typically wore a tweed jacket, heavier sport shirt, and cashmere scarf, along with gloves in all but the coldest conditions when not planning to be outdoors for any extended time. Works fine getting to and from the car, and removing the scarf will typically suffice for indoors. I find adding the scarf and sealing the *V* adds about 5 - 10 degrees of comfort to the ensemble.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> If it's cold enough to wear those gloves, he should be wearing an overcoat, not just a sports jacket! I too cannot yet bring myself to pair blue jeans with a sport coat.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> I'm sympathetic to his choice for the weather. I long typically wore a tweed jacket, heavier sport shirt, and cashmere scarf, along with gloves, in all but the coldest conditions when not planning to be outdoors for any extended time. Works fine getting to and from the car, and removing the scarf will typically suffice for indoors. I find adding the scarf and sealing the *V* adds about 5 - 10 degrees of comfort to the ensemble.


I can't go as far as the scarf, but will use a turtleneck (to close the V - good point) with a heavy sport coat, jeans and gloves (or just a heavy sweater over a collared shirt [instead of the turtleneck], like Redford, but without the arrestingly good looks) on cold days in the 40s - below that, I usually break out the overcoat.


----------



## Oldsarge

But not together.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I can't go as far as the scarf, but will use a turtleneck (to close the V - good point) with a heavy sport coat, jeans and gloves (or just a heavy sweater over a collared shirt [instead of the turtleneck], like Redford, but without the arrestingly good looks) on cold days in the 40s - below that, I usually break out the overcoat.


It's worked for me, and frankly, I'm overly fond of nice scarves, and this gives me an opportunity to maximize their wear. I prefer to wear them without a crew neck or other secondary sweater, and under the jacket, simply folded over to help close the jacket. And I'll even wear it with turtlenecks. An example is navy turtleneck worn with a bottle green corduroy jacket and Dress Campbell Tartan cashmere scarf, atop a pair of tan herringbone tweed trousers. A flat cap, or rust colored hat can help pedestrians avoid being blinded by the shine from my scalp! 😭

And while cold hands never particularly appealed to me, deep into senility, my hands now chap with virtually no provocation . A pair of cashmere lined dress gloves solves the problem while still allowing enough tactile sensitivity for driving, etc.



Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 39669
> 
> 
> View attachment 39670
> 
> 
> But not together.


Outstanding!


----------



## williamson

Flanderian said:


> I'm sympathetic to his choice for the weather. I long typically wore a tweed jacket, heavier sport shirt, and cashmere scarf, along with gloves in all but the coldest conditions when not planning to be outdoors for any extended time.


 Such an ensemble will usually suffice in the British winter, particularly the mild one from which we're emerging.


> Works fine getting to and from the car, and removing the scarf will typically suffice for indoors. I find adding the scarf and sealing the *V* adds about 5 - 10 degrees of comfort to the ensemble.


 This is why I wear shirt and tie in the cooler seasons, except when I'm wearing a roll-collar (turtleneck) jumper.


----------



## Fading Fast

TCM has been promoting an upcoming in-theater showing of "Love Story," which got me to thinking that there must be a lot of Tweed worn in that movie, but a search of pics only produce a few interesting items.

One is this really neat reversible raincoat with a wonderful grey herringbone Tweed on the wool side. My only complaint (of course I have one) is how short the coat is. Clearly, based on her coat as well, short coats were in that season. I couldn't find a good pic of the full coat being worn with the Tweed side out.

The other interesting Tweed I found is his sport coat in the last pic. And to our conversation yesterday, he's wearing Flanderian's scarf, but my sweater and, somewhat hard to tell, but I think grey flannels as well. But it can't be that cold as he's ignoring our advice about closing the "V."


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 39667
> View attachment 39668


If I were as cool as Robert Redford, I could wear those rigs, but alas, I am not...so I won't try to do so. LOL! Although I have seen a surprising number of dudes in these parts wearing gloves with a sport coat during the winter drops in daytime temperatures. Hmmn? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> TCM has been promoting an upcoming in-theater showing of "Love Story," which got me to thinking that there must be a lot of Tweed worn in that movie, but a search of pics only produce a few interesting items.
> 
> One is this really neat reversible raincoat with a wonderful grey herringbone Tweed on the wool side. My only complaint (of course I have one) is how short the coat is. Clearly, based on her coat as well, short coats were in that season. I couldn't find a good pic of the full coat being worn with the Tweed side out.
> 
> The other interesting Tweed I found is his sport coat in the last pic. And to our conversation yesterday, he's wearing Flanderian's scarf, but my sweater and, somewhat hard to tell, but I think grey flannels as well. But it can't be that cold as he's ignoring our advice about closing the "V."
> 
> View attachment 39682
> View attachment 39683
> View attachment 39684
> View attachment 39685


Nice stuff! :loveyou:

Better 70's preppy! That bottom jacket reminds me a lot of the jackets Paul Stuart was selling at the time. While tweaked for '70's fashion, it's really classic, and is still stylish 50 years later!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Nice stuff! :loveyou:
> 
> Better 70's preppy! That bottom jacket reminds me a lot of the jackets Paul Stuart was selling at the time. While tweaked for '70's fashion, it's really classic, and is still stylish 50 years later!


There's a lot of cool, as you said, '70s prep in that movie. 























And I just stumbled upon this shot of the reversible raincoat with the Tweed side out:









N.B., For a "Townie," Ali MacGraw wears a lot off preppy clothes herself.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> There's a lot of cool, as you said, '70s prep in that movie.
> View attachment 39689
> View attachment 39690
> View attachment 39691
> 
> 
> And I just stumbled upon this shot of the reversible raincoat with the Tweed side out:
> View attachment 39692
> 
> 
> N.B., For a "Townie," Ali MacGraw wears a lot off preppy clothes herself.


If I saw a color shot of that coat and it's a brown tweed, I would swear the one I had from Polo would be it's clone.


----------



## Fading Fast

EclecticSr. said:


> If I saw a color shot of that coat and it's a brown tweed, I would swear the one I had from Polo would be it's clone.


From old ads, pics, movies, etc. and from what I saw in the '80s when the last embers of Ivy clothing were still glowing, I've been a fan of the reversible raincoat and, pretty much, they made two versions: there was a brown herringbone tweed (it sounds, like yours) and, as you can see in the below picks form "Love Story:" a grey herringbone tweed version.

I don't remember where, but recently I saw a pic of a reversible in a Prince of Whales (or at least windowpane) pattern in brown, but the vast majority I've seen are either brown or grey herringbone.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> From old ads, pics, movies, etc. and from what I saw in the '80s when the last embers of Ivy clothing were still glowing, I've been a fan of the reversible raincoat and, pretty much, they made two versions: there was a brown herringbone tweed (it sounds, like yours) and, as you can see in the below picks form "Love Story:" a grey herringbone tweed version.
> 
> I don't remember where, but recently I saw a pic of a reversible in a Prince of Whales (or at least windowpane) pattern in brown, but the vast majority I've seen are either brown or grey herringbone.
> 
> View attachment 39711
> View attachment 39712


I guess not. Mine was brown, same weave though. Thanks for providing that.


----------



## Fading Fast

EclecticSr. said:


> I guess not. Mine was brown, same weave though. Thanks for providing that.


Don't be hard on yourself , it's impossible to tell in a B&W pic and, from memory, back in the '80s, when both were in the stores (Press in particular had them), they were the exact same coat with the exact same weave / pattern / details except one had brown and the other had grey tweed on one side.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 39708


Nice cloth, but frankly, cut a little skimpy for my preferences.


----------



## Flanderian

I ordinarily cringe at deliberately distressed denim, but the over all ensemble is so well done, and the possibly bespoke denim shirt so nice, that I find it quite handsome in the vein of my preferred _*relaxed elegance*_.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Flanderian said:


> I ordinarily cringe at deliberately distressed denim, but the over all ensemble is so well done, and the possibly bespoke denim shirt so nice, that I find it quite handsome in the vein of my preferred _*relaxed elegance*_.
> 
> View attachment 39714


I would agree with bespoke , 2 button collar and button down, not likely seen OTR. but, who knows!


----------



## Flanderian

EclecticSr. said:


> I would agree with bespoke , 2 button collar and button down, not likely seen OTR. but, who knows!


Could be RTW, but more likely bespoke, (Unless of course it's RTW trying to look like bespoke! ) But the shirt does look pretty carefully made.

Since you've shared your age, looking at the collar of this shirt, I wonder if you're also reminded of the high-roll BD collar, that was something of a fringe. louche fashion from the late '50's to mid-60's? Though that usually had just a single button closure.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Flanderian said:


> Could be RTW, but more likely bespoke, (Unless of course it's RTW trying to look like bespoke! ) But the shirt does look pretty carefully made.
> 
> Since you've shared your age, looking at the collar of this shirt, I wonder if you're also reminded of the high-roll BD collar, that was something of a fringe. louche fashion from the late '50's to mid-60's? Though that usually had just a single button closure.


Of course I remember. I never wore button down collars, I felt they never suited me,. Lately though I'm not that opposed to wearing them, in fact currently have a few, usually wear them casually as in the pic you provided. I happen to like that denim shirt and would consider having it duplicated.

I believe one of the European vendors offered up a similar shirt, OTR, Might have been Berg and Berg, not sure, I'll try to research.


----------



## Odradek

In a charity shop this morning I came across a tweed Norfolk Jacket, the first one I'd ever found.
Didn't buy it, but then, about half an hour later I saw a man walking down the street in another (much nicer) Norfolk.
What are the odds ?


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## paxonus

For shooting in style.


----------



## Flanderian

paxonus said:


> For shooting in style.
> 
> View attachment 39755


Nice but would likely look much nicer with a couple less buttons buttoned.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## paxonus

Flanderian said:


> Nice but would likely look much nicer with a couple less buttons buttoned.


You need to be buttoned up for those cold days on the grouse moors.


----------



## Flanderian

Cold grouse moor.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Flanderian said:


> Cold grouse moor.
> 
> View attachment 39763


 Good Lawd, where's Jeeves with that snifter I ordered? There's a chill 🤧


----------



## Flanderian

Purity -


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Purity -
> 
> View attachment 39769
> 
> 
> View attachment 39770
> 
> 
> View attachment 39771


Pretty darn close to my favorite suit in the world (yes, I have a favorite suit in the world). The material and those shoulders - wow.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Pretty darn close to my favorite suit in the world (yes, I have a favorite suit in the world). The material and those shoulders - wow.


Yup, me too.

I'd want it fitted a little on the large side so that I could wear heavier shirts, and some sweaters under it in soft, cozy comfort. I've got a flannel shirt (From the real, I.e. original, Lands End.) in navy with a white box check over it. I'd wear it with this suit and an older solid darker red (Not wine) silk knit tie from Paul Stuart and a suitable silk paisley PS. Rust suede oxfords below.

Simple can be the basis for the more involved.


----------



## Fading Fast

Might be a repeat, but if it is, it's worth looking at again.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 39800
> 
> Might be a repeat, but if it is, it's worth looking at again.


Oh, yes!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 39800
> 
> Might be a repeat, but if it is, it's worth looking at again.


Magnificent cloth! :icon_hailthee:

A suit which would allow you to stomp through the briars.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 39800
> 
> Might be a repeat, but if it is, it's worth looking at again.


To the Manor born. :beer:


----------



## Oldsarge

EclecticSr. said:


> To the Manor born. :beer:


"Sidney, fetch the shooting brake. We're off to the Manique-Dypressif's for a day at the grouse!"


----------



## Flanderian

G. The Bruce in a lovely jacket of a magnificent traditional tweed pattern; crowsfoot! 👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 39824


Hmm . . . . ? :icon_scratch: Looks familiar!


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 39824


Sarge, try to keep up.
Agreed that that suit assumes basic status for folks of a certain age and a certain geography, such as me. Trying to picture it with Flanderian's flannel shirt thing. Sounds okay. But I do see it with an open-necked deep green shirt and a dark red and brown argyle sleeveless sweater. (I own similar and wear likewise.) Course it would look swell with white shirt and any color tie you want. Nice suit. Would have liked to have seen the whole thing, but I always say that.


----------



## Oldsarge

How about these?



















Or am I posting repeats again?


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> ...am I posting repeats again?


Yes. But you're okay. I actially wear a suit more than once.

Pic 1 bears repeating. Pic 2 not so much.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Peak and Pine

^^

Glen plaid with herring bone? No.
And if you need to patch your dark'ish jacket, don't use white thread. Or post it on line even with the proper thread.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 39896


Interesting, in a good way. I think. Half gauntlets and flapped, double breast pockets. Just enough eccentricity. But even tho a bottom button is seldom used, it ought to look like it could be.


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> ^^
> 
> Glen plaid with herring bone? No.
> And if you need to patch your dark'ish jacket, don't use white thread. Or post it on line even with the proper thread.


Are you suggesting I own this? I just found the picture to share. And I fully agree with the comment! The two tweeds look decidedly odd together.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 39905


Plus one for the pattern matching at the shoulder. Tough to do at that position.

Second guy is taking the first guy's order for a full set of the Encyclopedia Britannia, each refusing to believe it's not 1982.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> Are you suggesting I own this? I just found the picture to share.


Nay. I've seen (some of) your stuff and it's top notch. _You _in the quoted post is second person plural, the universal y_ou._


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Good Conduct medal in the boutonniere hole. Interesting choice.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Good Conduct medal in the boutonniere hole. Interesting choice.


Missed that! Wonder if it's warranted!?


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

^^

The pose seems similar to the one assumed if you're planning on turning into the Hulk. The sweater's too bulky to be worn tucked, as here, or underneath a jacket, as here, or underneath an outer coat as this is the sort of sweater worn (up here) on a cold day while active, as outerwear.

Jacket cloth okay, but tailored too tight, especially the sleeves which achieve the near impossible: to wrinkle tweed. Nix on this.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> Good Conduct medal in the boutonniere hole. Interesting choice.





Flanderian said:


> Missed that! Wonder if it's warranted!?


LOL. Well the Good Conduct Medal is an award I never received, for several reasons!


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> LOL. Well the Good Conduct Medal is an award I never received, for several reasons!


Gosh! Then you must have gotten the *Super* Good Conduct Medal instead! I could imagine nothing less. :icon_saint7kg:

Was one of only 3 or 4 ribbons to which I was entitled upon mustering out. That ribbon, plus some ribbon for having enlisted (Colloquially; The Stupidity Ribbon) and the expert ribbon. Can't recall if there was a forth?


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## EclecticSr.

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 39946


Wonderful blend, each accessory item flows seamlessly starting with the tie.


----------



## Fading Fast

Fading Fast said:


>


Acknowledging that defending grey herringbone is a hill I'm willing to die on, I really like this garment as it's the first one I remember seeing in a grey not earth-tone color scheme. Also, the brown suede looks nice with it and, overall, the garment looks well made.


----------



## Flanderian

It ain't tweed, but who cares!? 
It's magnificent! :happy:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Acknowledging that defending grey herringbone is a hill I'm willing to die on, I really like this garment as it's the first one I remember seeing in a grey not earth-tone color scheme. Also, the brown suede looks nice with it and, overall, the garment looks well made.


I'm wearing grey tweed today in your honor! (Though not herringbone. ) Just gotta with plush, black corduroy trousers!


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> It ain't tweed, but who cares!?
> It's magnificent! :happy:
> 
> View attachment 39959


Beyond magnificent, sublime!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> I'm wearing grey tweed today in your honor! (Though not herringbone. ) Just gotta with plush, black corduroy trousers!


I wore my grey herringbone Woolrich vest today, so between us, we got it covered.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I wore my grey herringbone Woolrich vest today, so between us, we got it covered.


👍 👍 👍



Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 39962


Very handsome!

And tweed trousers can be such a comfort on cold, damp days! :cold:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> ...
> 
> Very handsome!
> 
> And tweed trousers can be such a comfort on cold, damp days! :cold:


When I work out, I use all the modern sweat-wicking, quick drying, flexing, etc., clothes plus arch-support, light-weight sneakers as I find they are better than the old stuff I used to use.

But for my day-to-day living, I like the old-fashion solutions to problems: heavy wool items or my much-loved flannel-lined chinos for warmth; linen, etc. for warm weather; Bean boots and parkas for rain, etc.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ One after another great looking Tweed. For me, the Glen Plaid overcoat jumps out - I love the tone-on-tone of that GP.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Both of these feel to me like they could come right out of the pages of Flanderian's Esquire Era thread as these look very '30s to me.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Both of these feel to me like they could come right out of the pages of Flanderian's Esquire Era thread as these look very '30s to me.
> View attachment 40019
> View attachment 40020


Those trousers appear to be made of really heavy fabric. Was that how it was done, back in the 1930's? Were lighter weight options available for those so inclined? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Those trousers appear to be made of really heavy fabric. Was that how it was done, back in the 1930's? Were lighter weight options available for those so inclined? :icon_scratch:


Just from the odd thing I've read here and there, I'd say clothes were heavier, overall, back in the '30s.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Both of these feel to me like they could come right out of the pages of Flanderian's Esquire Era thread as these look very '30s to me.
> View attachment 40019
> View attachment 40020


Really handsome trousers! :loveyou:



eagle2250 said:


> Those trousers appear to be made of really heavy fabric. Was that how it was done, back in the 1930's? Were lighter weight options available for those so inclined? :icon_scratch:


Remember, wool flannel was still being recommended as comfortable beach wear in the '30's! 😅


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Really handsome trousers! :loveyou:
> 
> Remember, wool flannel was still being recommended as comfortable beach wear in the '30's! 😅


As you say, "summer" white flannels were a thing.


----------



## Oldsarge

And this was in the day before air conditioning!


----------



## Oldsarge

Normally I don't approve of suits without ties but this isn't bad.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## 215339

Does anyone else just want fake tweed?

Anything that looks like tweed, but isn't actual tweed.

I find tweed completely unwearable due to central heating being on blast everywhere.

Give me a worsted check like this any day.


__
http://instagr.am/p/B8ggJ1FHhn7/


----------



## Oldsarge

Being retired, I can keep my house as cool as I like so tweed is right up my alley. But I understand your complaint. Having spent the first 69 years of my life in SoCal, "summer tweed" was something I always was on the lookout for.


----------



## Peak and Pine

"Some late visitor entreating entrance at my chamber door. This it is and nothing more."


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 40061


Reminds me a bit of Nicholas Lowry, the poster appraiser for Swann Galleries who is notorious for the tartan tweed suits he wears on Antiques Roadshow .


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> Reminds me a bit of Nicholas Lowry, the poster appraiser for Swann Galleries who is notorious for the tartan tweed suits he wears on Antiques Roadshow .
> 
> View attachment 40077


"These posters are rare nowadays, particularly in such good condition, and if you sold it, you could get as much as $2000, which you should put on Peradventure in the 4th at Belmont".


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 40109


A decidedly handsome jacket that works well with the charcoal cardigan and that navy tie. However, I struggle to understand why some gentlemen presume to stretch the breast pocket on a beloved jacket all out of shape by stuffing a pair of gloves into it. When I see such occuring in the wild, I have this incredible urge to pull the gloves from the pocket and strike the offender with those gloves challenging the cad to a duel! LOL


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> A decidedly handsome jacket that works well with the charcoal cardigan and that navy tie. However, I struggle to understand why some gentlemen presume to stretch the breast pocket on a beloved jacket all out of shape by stuffing a pair of gloves into it. When I see such occuring in the wild, I have this incredible urge to pull the gloves from the pocket and strike the offender with those gloves challenging the cad to a duel! LOL


All that affected stuff, like the gloves in the breast pocket, turns me off - put them in the side pockets like a normal person for God's sake. Think about the effort it would take to get the gloves into the breast pocket that way when you could just tuck one into each side pocket without thinking.

What I really like about the coat is the sharp black-and-white contrast of the large herringbone pattern.


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> "These posters are rare nowadays, particularly in such good condition, and if you sold it, you could get as much as $2000, which you should put on Peradventure in the 4th at Belmont".


 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 40109


Scintillating! 👍

But there's something odd about the tweed from which this jacket is made. :icon_scratch:

Slubby yarn even more loosely spun than tweed yarn typically is. Almost looks as if it could be cotton.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> A decidedly handsome jacket that works well with the charcoal cardigan and that navy tie. However, I struggle to understand why some gentlemen presume to stretch the breast pocket on a beloved jacket all out of shape by stuffing a pair of gloves into it. When I see such occuring in the wild, I have this incredible urge to pull the gloves from the pocket and strike the offender with those gloves challenging the cad to a duel! LOL





Fading Fast said:


> All that affected stuff, like the gloves in the breast pocket, turns me off - put them in the side pockets like a normal person for God's sake. Think about the effort it would take to get the gloves into the breast pocket that way when you could just tuck one into each side pocket without thinking.
> 
> What I really like about the coat is the sharp black-and-white contrast of the large herringbone pattern.


This is something that the art directors for various Paul Stuart catalogs used to do routinely, and had long been a staple of window displays and other catalogs. And while it can be an appealing component of a carefully posed and composed fashion display, its real world appeal is highly questionable.


----------



## ItalianStyle

Fading Fast said:


> All that affected stuff, like the gloves in the breast pocket, turns me off - put them in the side pockets like a normal person for God's sake. Think about the effort it would take to get the gloves into the breast pocket that way when you could just tuck one into each side pocket without thinking.


Especially when he is only able to squeeze *one* glove in that breast pocket... :icon_scratch:


----------



## 215339

eagle2250 said:


> A decidedly handsome jacket that works well with the charcoal cardigan and that navy tie. However, I struggle to understand why some gentlemen presume to stretch the breast pocket on a beloved jacket all out of shape by stuffing a pair of gloves into it. When I see such occuring in the wild, I have this incredible urge to pull the gloves from the pocket and strike the offender with those gloves challenging the cad to a duel! LOL





Fading Fast said:


> All that affected stuff, like the gloves in the breast pocket, turns me off - put them in the side pockets like a normal person for God's sake. Think about the effort it would take to get the gloves into the breast pocket that way when you could just tuck one into each side pocket without thinking.
> 
> What I really like about the coat is the sharp black-and-white contrast of the large herringbone pattern.


I do this all the time. My coat's patch pockets are a bit small, so I can only barely fit a wallet and my thick phone in each.

Stuffing both my gloves into the small breast pocket doesn't disrupt the lines of the coat and I admit I feel cool doing it.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

Actor Jack Albertson wore this fantastic overcoat in the 1968 movie "The Subject Was Roses."















Unfortunately, these are the two best picks of it I could find, but it's really impressive up-close - heavy as heck with a nice herringbone patter.


----------



## EclecticSr.

^^^^ Patricia Neal?


----------



## Fading Fast

EclecticSr. said:


> ^^^^ Patricia Neal?


Yes and, as she always does, gives an incredible performance. She is one of my favorite lessor-known-today actresses.


----------



## Peak and Pine

EclecticSr. said:


> ^^^^ Patricia Neal?


Probably. Didn't see the movie. Based on a Broadway play which I did see. No Patricia Neal, but Albertson and Martin Sheen were there. It was a drag. Don't recall the coat, or much else from my 19th year, a booze fog often lurking.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Peak and Pine said:


> Probably. Didn't see the movie. Based on a Broadway play which I did see. No Patricia Neal, but Albertson and Martin Sheen were there. It was a drag. Don't recall the coat, or much else from my 19th year, a booze fog often lurking.


Never attended a Broadway play or off Broadway for that matter. I doubt I could sit through one regardless of the talent. I've been urged several times only to decline.

Is wine considered booze? I often nod off while surfing the boob tube in search of something intelligent
and awake to the same wine induced fog. I surprised myself that I immediately attached the name to the face. These days it takes awhile.


----------



## Peak and Pine

EclecticSr. said:


> Never attended a Broadway play or off Broadway for that matter. I doubt I could sit through one regardless of the talent. I've been urged several times only to decline.
> 
> Is wine considered booze? I often nod off while surfing the boob tube in search of something intelligent
> and awake to the same wine induced fog. I surprised myself that I immediately attached the name to the face. These days it takes awhile.


'63, '64 and '65 were, I later learned, a golden time for Broadway. I was 18,19 and 20, going to school in Manhattan and saw probably 50 Broadway shows Including Richard Burton in Hamlet and the final dress rehearsal for Who's Afraid of Virginia Wolf the night before it opened. I snuck into many at intermission when the doors opened and the crowd came out for a smoke. At the curtain call for Stop the World the ushers would open the doors while Anthony Newley was reprising What Kind of Fool Am I and the ushers would let me in and I saw him sing that maybe 20 times. Told him so at the stage door one night and he gave me a ride back to school in his limo. Wangled my way backstage at Oliver to meet the Artful Dodger, we were the same age, and later spent drinking time together in the Village. More than once. He went on to become a Monkee. Have not been to a Broadway show in 50 years now. Exhausted it out in the early 60s.

Back to the tweed...


----------



## EclecticSr.

Peak and Pine said:


> '63, '64 and '65 were, I later learned, a golden time for Broadway. I was 18,19 and 20, going to school in Manhattan and saw probably 50 Broadway shows Including Richard Burton in Hamlet and the final dress rehearsal for Who's Afraid of Virginia Wolf the night before it opened. I snuck into many at intermission when the doors opened and the crowd came out for a smoke. At the curtain call for Stop the World the ushers would open the doors while Anthony Newley was reprising What Kind of Fool Am I and the ushers would let me in and I saw him sing that maybe 20 times. Told him so at the stage door one night and he gave me a ride back to school in his limo. Wangled my way backstage at Oliver to meet the Artful Dodger, we were the same age, and later spent drinking time together in the Village. More than once. He went on to become a Monkee. Have not been to a Broadway show in 50 years now. Exhausted it out in the early 60s.
> 
> Back to the tweed...


Having come in contact with or introduced to a few celebs ( and some of less than positive celebrity ) in about the same time frame , I hear you. Does Cafe Wha, Blue note cafe sound familiar? Thelonius Monk.
Diana Ross and members of the Supremes, still have a hand written note from Diana, priceless. Diane Carol, Monique Van Vooren  and others.

But indeed I have digressed too far, on to glorious tweed and let the parade continue.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Peak and Pine

EclecticSr. said:


> Having come in contact with or introduced to a few celebs ( and some of less than positive celebrity ) in about the same time frame or earlier , I hear you. Does Cafe wha, Blue note


Your post cuts out, but think you're telling of Cafe Wha and Blue Note, both in the Village. Blue Note is after my time. The Wha, a few times there and may have seen some of the greats I now hear were there, but since they weren't greats at the time ('celt Judy Henske, with whom I was in looove) I don't recall them as anything special, or at all.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Peak and Pine said:


> Your post cuts out, but think you're telling of Cafe Wha and Blue Note, both in the Village. Blue Note is after my time. The Wha, a few times there and may have seen some of the greats I now hear were there, but since they weren't greats at the time ('celt Judy Henske, with whom I was in looove) I don't recall them as anything special, or at all.


Had a problem with PC , I've posted full response down th e thread.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Peak and Pine said:


> Your post cuts out, but think you're telling of Cafe Wha and Blue Note, both in the Village. Blue Note is after my time. The Wha, a few times there and may have seen some of the greats I now hear were there, but since they weren't greats at the time ('celt Judy Henske, with whom I was in looove) I don't recall them as anything special, or at all.


Once had to endure the petulance of one Neal D. admonishing his back up musicians during a rehearsal while I was there working for the manager. Guess who was out of beat?


----------



## Flanderian

Fabrizio Servente.
Button that jacket, young man!! :fish:


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Actor Jack Albertson wore this fantastic overcoat in the 1968 movie "The Subject Was Roses."
> View attachment 40140
> View attachment 40139
> 
> Unfortunately, these are the two best picks of it I could find, but it's really impressive up-close - heavy as heck with a nice herringbone patter.


....and a picture of a future President (Jed Bartlet), as a young man engaging in a fist fight! LOL.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 40168


That's kind of an inconsistent outfit. I really like the coat and putting the gloves in the side pocket is less affected than trying to make them into a PS. However, I don't know about the tie and the popped collar? Why? It doesn't even have a throat latch so it won't keep you warmer.


----------



## Flanderian

Tweed on tweed -


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian

Die skinny suit, die!!! irate:


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 40189


No humor intended here, but what are we looking at? It appears to be a cardigan worn over a sweater vest. Or could that be one of those fabled knit sport coats? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast

Ronald Coleman in 1930's "Raffles" (it and its remake in '39 are both decent movies):


----------



## EclecticSr.

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 40189


Not quite sure of the combo of sweaters but I'm sure I have that tie or one darn close from Paul Stuart in wool challis.My kind of knot.


----------



## paxonus

Fading Fast said:


> Ronald Coleman in 1930's "Raffles" (it and its remake in '39 are both decent movies):
> View attachment 40195
> 
> View attachment 40198


Reminds me of my late father-in-law. Sported the same mustache and wore BB sack suits, usually pin-striped.


----------



## Oldsarge

I'm not sure this really is tweed but who cares?


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> No humor intended here, but what are we looking at? It appears to be a cardigan worn over a sweater vest. Or could that be one of those fabled knit sport coats? :icon_scratch:


A very reasonable question! I assumed it was the sort of cardigan composed of both woven cloth and knit. With a light weight tweed forming the body of the sweater, and attached to the solid color knit at the edges and hem. Beneath it lies a knitted button vest. I'm mainly knot a fan of the knit on knit bit, but the brilliantly harmonized lush and vibrant colors and patterns have seduced me!



EclecticSr. said:


> Not quite sure of the combo of sweaters but I'm sure I have that tie or one darn close from Paul Stuart in wool challis.My kind of knot.


It a gorgeous wool challis paisley, and I love the mustard ground! Paul Stuart has long offered far more adventuresome and lush paisley in wool challis than I've ever found elsewhere. I've got a couple from 20, or so, years ago, but I congratulate you upon enjoying this both beautiful and unusual gem! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> I'm not sure this really is tweed but who cares?
> 
> View attachment 40213


I shall need to place a sprig of holly in my fedora!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Ronald Coleman in 1930's "Raffles" (it and its remake in '39 are both decent movies):
> View attachment 40195
> 
> View attachment 40198


Remarkable style!

:beer:


----------



## EclecticSr.

Oldsarge said:


> I'm not sure this really is tweed but who cares?
> 
> View attachment 40213


Only thing missing are a pair of flashes, but as you say, who cares.


----------



## Oldsarge

EclecticSr. said:


> Only thing missing are a pair of flashes, but as you say, who cares.


Well, the flashes, of course, go on the outside of the leg and you can't see below the cuff on her left leg so perhaps she has them. Either way, who cares?


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> I'm not sure this really is tweed but who cares?
> 
> View attachment 40213





Flanderian said:


> I shall need to place a sprig of holly in my fedora!


Jeez Louise, I was hoping that was a sprig of Mistletoe! In any event, that is quite the fetching...rig she is wearing.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Jeez Louise, I was hoping that was a sprig of Mistletoe! In any event, that is quite the fetching...rig she is wearing.


There's a story with that outfit as she didn't just roll out of bed that morning, stumble to her closet and throw on the first things she grabbed. There's a plan and reason for that getup.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> There's a story with that outfit as she didn't just roll out of bed that morning, stumble to her closet and throw on the first things she grabbed. There's a plan and reason for that getup.


Yeah, to make us old f****s drool.


----------



## David J. Cooper




----------



## EclecticSr.

David J. Cooper said:


> View attachment 40244


WOW, what a beautiful leather chair. 😍


----------



## eagle2250

David J. Cooper said:


> View attachment 40244





EclecticSr. said:


> WOW, what a beautiful leather chair. 😍


Indeed, but someone put the seat cushion in the wrong way. That zipper ought to be facing the back of the chair. Even so, that chair is beautiful! LOL.


----------



## Fading Fast

David J. Cooper said:


> View attachment 40244


Yes, she is an attractive woman, but I'm just going to say it, this is not a well done picture / advertisement or whatever. In addition to Eagle's eagle-eye catching the sloppiness of putting the chair cushion on backwards, the woman looks uncomfortable in that insanely forced pose: In the recorded history time, no human being has ever chosen to sit that way, arch one's back the way, bend one's arm that way, etc. Maybe her suit is nice, but I can't really see past the woman clearly in pain trying to look comfortable.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fashion models earn their fees, frequently the hard way. Fashion photographers, on the other hand, should be ashamed of themselves on occasion. As Fading Fast pointed out, those aren't the eyes of a woman who is having fun!


----------



## David J. Cooper

I love the suit myself. Didn’t even notice the chair.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 40245


I like the basic design of the jacket pictured above, but those breast pockets appear oversized to the point of concern. As is, it strikes me as a Tweed version of the ever-classic field jacket! Downsize those pockets just a bit and that coat is a winner.


----------



## Oldsarge

eagle2250 said:


> As is, it strikes me as a Tweed version of the ever-classic field jacket!


It does, doesn't it? It seems a bit of an odd concept but certainly would be warm.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> It does, doesn't it? It seems a bit of an odd concept but certainly would be warm.


Agreed, you need to unzip that thing before you walk inside our you could self-combust.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

Tyrone Power wearing a Tweed herringbone sport coat in "Witness for the Prosecution." Also, love the tab-collar shirt.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## ItalianStyle

That's some serious lapel width on both items...


----------



## EclecticSr.

ItalianStyle said:


> That's some serious lapel width on both items...


Yeah and every inch beautiful!!!


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## EclecticSr.

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 40293


Lovely, right down to the watch, wish you had a full shot.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 40290


I have an odd jacket very similar, the hounds tooth on mine is all dark brown the ground color the same by Sartoria Parma.

The coat as well by Belfest. No idea as to make of these shown but but just lovely. 
Thank you flandy:icon_hailthee:


----------



## Flanderian

ItalianStyle said:


> That's some serious lapel width on both items...


Aside from American and British RTW, the skinny lapel, along with the rest of the skinny suit, has shared a common destination -


----------



## Flanderian

EclecticSr. said:


> I have an odd jacket very similar, the hounds tooth on mine is all dark brown the ground color the same by Sartoria Parma.
> 
> The coat as well by Belfest. No idea as to make of these shown but but just lovely.
> Thank you flandy:icon_hailthee:


Agreed!

Somehow feels like better Polo. :icon_scratch:


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Aside from American and British RTW, the skinny lapel, along with the rest of the skinny suit, has shared a common destination -
> 
> View attachment 40308


And aren't we relieved!


----------



## 215339

Flanderian said:


> Aside from American and British RTW, the *skinny lapel*, along with the rest of the skinny suit, has shared a common destination -
> 
> View attachment 40308


it can be done well


----------



## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> it can be done well


I wasn't a fan initially, but over the years I've come to like the sixties' version of the skinny lapel suit, in part I think, because it is so much better done than today's skinny (shrink-wrap) suits. In particularly, I think Connery looks darn good in that suit despite being a big guy.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Flanderian said:


> Agreed!
> 
> Somehow feels like better Polo. :icon_scratch:


I don't have Polo but I have Brooks Golden fleece polo coat as well and Brooks SB in storm system.


----------



## Fading Fast

Some distaff Tweed to start the week:






















The lapped seam on the raglan sleeve in the center pic is very cool looking.


----------



## EclecticSr.

No doubt you have a thing for fair isle. Me, love the cloche in pic 1, and then everything after in all pics.
Darn, I forgot to mention the models, lovely as well.


----------



## Fading Fast

EclecticSr. said:


> No doubt you have a thing for fair isle. Me, love the cloche in pic 1, and then everything after in all pics.
> Darn, I forgot to mention the models, lovely as well.


Thought the coat and Fair Isle in the first pic went particularly well together and I also really like the drape of the long coat in the third pic.


----------



## Flanderian

delicious_scent said:


> it can be done well


It certainly can be done better, if it's fine tailoring, perfectly cut and fitted, and one shares Mr. Moore's stature and build! Essentially if it's done well (Which contemporary fashion isn't.) on a man built for it, it looks OK. But you need to ask the question, how would he compare if wearing a more classic cut which tends to be flattering for almost any build?



Fading Fast said:


> Thought the coat and Fair Isle in the first pic went particularly well together and I also really like the drape of the long coat in the third pic.


You have the perfect build for it! For the rest of us, not so much. 

The Ivy aesthetic is a minimalist aesthetic, and there's nothing wrong with it, if one can wear it, and prefers it.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> Some distaff Tweed to start the week:
> View attachment 40321
> View attachment 40322
> View attachment 40320
> 
> The lapped seam on the raglan sleeve in the center pic is very cool looking.


Wherever they're going, I wanna go there too . . . (Karaoke 'Moon River')


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> Wherever they're going, I wanna go there too . . . (Karaoke 'Moon River')


And that's all the opening I need to note how insanely stylish "Breakfast at Tiffany" is - and it has at least one tweed sport coat.


----------



## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> I wasn't a fan initially, but over the years I've come to like the sixties' version of the skinny lapel suit, in part I think, because it is so much better done than today's skinny (shrink-wrap) suits. In particularly, I think Connery looks darn good in that suit despite being a big guy.


100% agree, it looks very unique


Flanderian said:


> It certainly can be done better, if it's fine tailoring, perfectly cut and fitted, and one shares Mr. Moore's stature and build! Essentially if it's done well (Which contemporary fashion isn't.) on a man built for it, it looks OK. But you need to ask the question, how would he compare if wearing a more classic cut which tends to be flattering for almost any build?
> 
> You have the perfect build for it! For the rest of us, not so much.
> 
> The Ivy aesthetic is a minimalist aesthetic, and there's nothing wrong with it, if one can wear it, and prefers it.


Better, but also likely a bit more boring and less unique.

I like the attention drawn to the chest with the overall shape and thinner lapels.


----------



## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> 100% agree, it looks very unique
> 
> Better, but also likely a bit more boring and less unique.
> 
> I like the attention drawn to the chest with the overall shape and thinner lapels.


I'm not quite sure why, but the narrow lapel suits, IMO, look better on Connery than Moore. I didn't post the "Breakfast at Tiffany" pics above because of this topic, but I just noticed that Peppard looks pretty good in his narrow lapel suit; although, I'd have given him a skosh more room in the hips and thighs of his trousers. Sydney Portier is another big guy who wears narrow lapel suits well even if I could only find this so-so pic of him in one:


----------



## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> I'm not quite sure why, but the narrow lapel suits, IMO, look better on Connery than Moore. I didn't post the "Breakfast at Tiffany" pics above because of this topic, but I just noticed that Peppard looks pretty good in his narrow lapel suit; although, I'd have given him a skosh more room in the hips and thighs of his trousers. Sydney Portier is another big guy who wears narrow lapel suits well even if I could only find this so-so pic of him in one:
> View attachment 40346


The narrow lapel suits look good IMO because the gorge and its angle are also relatively lower which make a huge difference. I'm of the opinion the lower the gorge, the thinner the lapel should be.

Moore's suits look more structured and Connery as a person looks bigger with a softer suit, so that may be explain your preference.

@Matt S as usual might have more info though.


----------



## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> The narrow lapel suits look good IMO because the gorge and its angle are also relatively lower which make a huge difference. I'm of the opinion the lower the gorge, the thinner the lapel should be.
> 
> Moore's suits look more structured and Connery as a person looks bigger with a softer suit, so that may be explain your preference.
> 
> @Matt S as usual might have more info though.


Your points are good one as is your call for @Matt S . I'll fire up the Matt S Bat signal:


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> I wasn't a fan initially, but over the years I've come to like the sixties' version of the skinny lapel suit, in part I think, because it is so much better done than today's skinny (shrink-wrap) suits. In particularly, I think Connery looks darn good in that suit despite being a big guy.


Could the reason be that Connery's suit is cut with more drape, something mostly lost in tailoring these days. 
Often misunderstood.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I'm not quite sure why, but the narrow lapel suits, IMO, look better on Connery than Moore. I didn't post the "Breakfast at Tiffany" pics above because of this topic, but I just noticed that Peppard looks pretty good in his narrow lapel suit; although, I'd have given him a skosh more room in the hips and thighs of his trousers. Sydney Portier is another big guy who wears narrow lapel suits well even if I could only find this so-so pic of him in one:
> View attachment 40346


And lest we forget, the tailors of which Mr. Connery and Mr. Moore availed themselves were *not* Indochino! In that era men on camera often appeared in the best bespoke. And irrespective of source, you'll hardly ever find a man on camera wearing anything that doesn't fit him perfectly. Were that it was only still so!


----------



## Matt S

Connery's and Moore's jackets are cut fairly similarly. Both have soft shoulders and a fullchest. Moore's suit is a bit stiffer, with more swelling than drape in the chest. Connery is leaner and has a bigger drop from his chest to his waist. The difference is in their bodies. Though Connery has a bigger chest, Moore's body is bulkier, and the narrow lapels emphasise his boxy torso.

I wrote about the two tailors in this article: https://www.bondsuits.com/james-bond-vs-saint-two-1960s-conduit-street-suits/


----------



## 215339

Matt S said:


> Connery's and Moore's jackets are cut fairly similarly. Both have soft shoulders and a fullchest. Moore's suit is a bit stiffer, with more swelling than drape in the chest. Connery is leaner and has a bigger drop from his chest to his waist. The difference is in their bodies. Though Connery has a bigger chest,* Moore's body is bulkier, and the narrow lapels emphasise his boxy torso.*
> 
> I wrote about the two tailors in this article: https://www.bondsuits.com/james-bond-vs-saint-two-1960s-conduit-street-suits/


Hmm bolded makes sense, thanks.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 40350


Looks like he just stepped out of an episode of the Untouchables...one of the good guys, for sure! Although the pinned collar looks just a tad out of place.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 40350


love the hat but I think it's just too large for him, referring to crown and brim. I like hats with tall straight up boxy crowns but it's overpowering on him.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Since I think that was a dupe of an early post, here's another one:


----------



## Color 8

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 40350


Looks like a well-dressed kid trying on his ffather's hat


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Peak and Pine

^
Cleared for take-off.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> Looks like he just stepped out of an episode of the Untouchables...one of the good guys, for sure! Although the pinned collar looks just a tad out of place.


I'm OK with the pinned collar, but the knot is too big.



EclecticSr. said:


> love the hat but I think it's just too large for him, referring to crown and brim. I like hats with tall straight up boxy crowns but it's overpowering on him.


It is.



Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 40352


Magnificent! :icon_hailthee:



Color 8 said:


> Looks like a well-dressed kid trying on his ffather's hat


:icon_saint7kg:



Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 40378


Nice!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

Guess.
.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Peak and Pine said:


> Guess.
> .
> View attachment 40397


You?


----------



## Peak and Pine

EclecticSr. said:


> You?


You may have just won a brand new DeSoto.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Peak and Pine said:


> You may have just won a brand new DeSoto.


Heck, I was hoping for a Plymouth, or at least a Studebaker. Early fifties.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## StephenRG

I find the effect of tweed ruined when the entire ensemble uses the same very limited colour palette.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 40423
> 
> 
> View attachment 40424


Hmm . . . ? 

https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/threads/its-tweed-season.232591/page-277#post-1941317


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 40433


Does anyone have experience with studio suits, just going by the name on the mannequin. I've viewed their website and prices seem low except for higher end fabrics.


----------



## Fading Fast

EclecticSr. said:


> Does anyone have experience with studio suits, just going by the name on the mannequin. I've viewed their website and prices seem low except for higher end fabrics.


I do not have any experience with the brand, but have made the same observations as you have.


----------



## irish95

Fading Fast said:


> I do not have any experience with the brand, but have made the same observations as you have.


I've looked at their website a few times and was interested in some of their sportcoats. Prices looked great for a coat to wear on the weekend with jeans. Some of the reviews were not very good, but it seemed most of them were from people having coats made for them based on measurements. I'd be interested if anyone has any first hand experience with them.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 40392


I do like the fabric pattern of the jacket and vest he is wearing, but why has he got the jackets collar popped? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> I do like the fabric pattern of the jacket and vest he is wearing, but why has he got the jackets collar popped? :icon_scratch:


Agreed, I like it all except for that affectation. Especially in an outfit that calls enough attention to itself, a popped collar is a step too far.


----------



## Peak and Pine

StephenRG said:


> I find the effect of tweed* ruined* when the entire ensemble uses the same very limited colour palette.


Ruined?
Really?
A strong statement indeed.

Moving on...










Note the bottom button buttoned, following my dictum: you got buttons, use 'em.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

More about the above. Closer look shows a popped collar, which is not possible to do on a standard under-the-jacket vest as the collar is cropped in line with the shoulder seam, leaving nothing to pop. Odd here. The shoulder's also wider than a standard vest as are the lapels. Were it not for the button config, I'd be thinking this was a cut-down from a full jacket...

...something I just might be currently working on. The sleeves yield nice, soft, tweedy shoe cozies. And there's ample left over for a tweedy neck tie. And a small mat for a small cat to sleep on (which was his idea, found him lounging on the discards).


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## EclecticSr.

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> More about the above. Closer look shows a popped collar, which is not possible to do on a standard under-the-jacket vest as the collar is cropped in line with the shoulder seam, leaving nothing to pop. Odd here. The shoulder's also wider than a standard vest as are the lapels. Were it not for the button config, I'd be thinking this was a cut-down from a full jacket...
> 
> ...something I just might be currently working on. The sleeves yield nice, soft, tweedy shoe cozies. And there's ample left over for a tweedy neck tie. And a small mat for a small cat to sleep on (which was his idea, found him lounging on the discards).


One handsome vest.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Flanderian said:


> √












Much goodness here; you have to be fairly close to recognize a pattern. Another is the jacket's hard three-button stance (no wimpy three-roll-two for this guy). The lapel is trained to a swell roll just above three. Not wild wide, the lapel, nor skinny winny. Cloth stiff throughout though, just off the rack. (Note how the vest hangs; here's where you turn to Homeless Help: sleep in the vest for a few nights, loosen 'er right up.) All in all, a stunner.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 40467


My wife observed that the first jacket you picture looks very similar to the one I was wearing back in December 1972, when I first introduced myself to her. Although mine had a belt incorporated into it's design. Your post today brings back good memories.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 40467
> View attachment 40468


Very handsome! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

When too much tweed is never enough! :happy:


----------



## Flanderian

Senhor Antonio Sergio Rosa de Caravalho -


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Senhor Antonio Sergio Rosa de Caravalho -
> 
> View attachment 40506


And a cairn terrier. How appropriate!


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 40512


That's the slickest and most original take on a Norfolk I've ever seen. No messing around with the buckle, just button all the way down. Nice!


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ nice combination - the shirt's an inspired choice. I'm thinking Flanderian will like too.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Great cut and cloth for the jacket!

I think I know what the wearer is attempting, and this tie is too narrow for the jacket to provide the sort of aesthetic counterpoint that black knit ties can offer.

Oh! And needs a PS.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Star of the show is the breast pocket. Look at that rake. A good three inches down from right to left. And this is the trouble with posting bits and pieces of oufits; do the hip pockets do similar? Doubtful, since if they hack, they would hack opposite. So the breast pocket is a stand-alone abberation? We'll never know, but it probably is and it's probably enough whimsy, just the placid touch needed to make this fairly common cloth and cut have a little soul. A pocket square would befoul it. The tie and lapel widths _are_ incongruent, and while it would be easier to find a wider tie, were this mine I would narrow the lapel instead. A nice shirt, storm cloud stripe on a winter sky. Liking the lack of that bell-shaped roll some long for.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

^
Nice. Awfully lotta stuff popped though and pocket square in an o'coat is pushing it. The mannequin must be really warm.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 40608


Love the tweed! :loveyou:

But the gorge on the peak lapels is . . . . just . . . a little . . . . high!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 40640


Beautiful coat! 👍


----------



## Oldsarge

It is, but what is with all these popped collars? They make sense when the wind blows down from Canada but in that case the thing should be buttoned up clear to the chin.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Beautiful coat! 👍


I thought so too. It reminded me of something @upr_crust would pick up at a Paul Stuart sale.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I thought so too. It reminded me of something @upr_crust would pick up at a Paul Stuart sale.


Yes, but don't you have a similar one as well?


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Yes, but don't you have a similar one as well?


Since it's me, mine is a black and white herringbone PS (good memory), but that color made me think of Upr.

Mine


----------



## upr_crust

Fading Fast said:


> I thought so too. It reminded me of something @upr_crust would pick up at a Paul Stuart sale.


Here's mine, worn last on 2020/02/17, but from Brooks, not Stuart's. The coat was a bargain, bought in 2009, marked down by two-thirds, and with a Xmas pannetone thrown in for good measure, at Brooks' warehouse sale.


----------



## Fading Fast

upr_crust said:


> Here's mine, worn last on 2020/02/17, but from Brooks, not Stuart's. The coat was a bargain, bought in 2009, marked down by two-thirds, and with a Xmas pannetone thrown in for good measure, at Brooks' warehouse sale.
> 
> View attachment 40678
> View attachment 40678


I love that coat. To me, it looks like it walked right out of the pages of those incredible Apparel Arts illustrations of mens clothing from the 1930s.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Since it's me, mine is a black and white herringbone PS (good memory), but that color made me think of Upr.
> 
> Mine
> View attachment 40671





upr_crust said:


> Here's mine, worn last on 2020/02/17, but from Brooks, not Stuart's. The coat was a bargain, bought in 2009, marked down by two-thirds, and with a Xmas pannetone thrown in for good measure, at Brooks' warehouse sale.
> 
> View attachment 40678
> View attachment 40678


Exceptional, gentlemen, just exceptional! :beer:


----------



## Peak and Pine

Okay, the jacket and the sleeves are too short by a mile and the pensive pose isn't winning me over, but position it so you just see the jacket. Major piece. Ralph Lauren, obviously.


----------



## StephenRG

upr_crust said:


> Here's mine, worn last on 2020/02/17, but from Brooks, not Stuart's. The coat was a bargain, bought in 2009, marked down by two-thirds, and with a Xmas pannetone thrown in for good measure, at Brooks' warehouse sale.


When choosing the size of coat, did you allow for the effects of the pannetone?


----------



## Peak and Pine

Repositioned. Different take on the jacket, two above.


----------



## Fading Fast

A twofer:









Also, member @StephenRG posted this pic of Enrico Fermi in the "Old School Gentleman Thread" and I thought his awesome suit belonged over here as well:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Color 8

I would love to know where to find jackets made from material of this weight. It is much heavier than what is usually on offer at Brooks et al.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 40705


Other than the upside-down foulard tie that's in his breast pocket - this is one of my favorite pics in a long time.


----------



## Oldsarge

Color 8 said:


> I would love to know where to find jackets made from material of this weight. It is much heavier than what is usually on offer at Brooks et al.


I suspect that they would be MTM. I know that my favorite tailor carries 12-14 oz material that they usually use for overcoats. And I suspect that you might be able to find 20 oz. However, where you would wear such a garment is a whole other question. Central heating is the norm nowadays.


----------



## Color 8

Oldsarge said:


> I suspect that they would be MTM. I know that my favorite tailor carries 12-14 oz material that they usually use for overcoats. And I suspect that you might be able to find 20 oz. However, where you would wear such a garment is a whole other question. Central heating is the norm nowadays.


I agree - modern heating and a/c have caused everything to tend towards a similar 3+ish season weight. It would be great to have one of these heavy tweed sport jackets that could stand on it's own outdoors in blustery weather.


----------



## Peak and Pine

A little edge dressing on the side sole maybe, otherwise...


----------



## Peak and Pine

Question: show me two summer tweeds and a wool.









In certain crevices of New England, few days roll by without thoughts about this bunch, good ones.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 40741


Definitely NOT a fine double gun coat. However, for the proud owner of a Win Model 12, it's perfect!


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 40701


Those various shades of green really work well with the rust hued lapel knot and pocket square. I like it quite a lot.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

^
A repeat, but it deserves it, unbuttoned cuff and all. Here it is with a head:


----------



## Peak and Pine

^
Would like to get me one of them cameras that blurs the backgruund like that, but probably would have to pay twenty, maybe twenty-five dollars and you think I'm dipped in cash?


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> Would like to get me one of them cameras that blurs the backgruund like that, but probably would have to pay twenty, maybe twenty-five dollars and you think I'm dipped in cash?


I had a tiny feeling it might be a repeat - after awhile, it becomes impossible to remember everything that's been posted. He's a got a Bogie from "High Sierra" haircut working.









I am not into photography as a hobby, but my girlfriend is a bit and as she says, just hang out a year or two and it seems that all the high-end features of cameras come to the regular-priced phones. She does some amazing things with pics with her, now, two-year old iPhone.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Mr Thorvald

Fading Fast said:


> I thought so too. It reminded me of something @upr_crust would pick up at a Paul Stuart sale.


I go by Paul Stuart often and look at the nice tweed sportcoats in the window, but i don't go inside because I've never been able to afford anything in there (I never even seen anything of theirs in thrift shops around NYC either), also they look very snooty in there and I'm afraid I'm gonna get their beige rugs dirty with my poor person dirty shoes. Does anyone know if they have warehouse sales like Barney's does ... did :- ( I can't imagine how they stay in business charging the prices they do.


----------



## Fading Fast

Mr Thorvald said:


> I go by Paul Stuart often and look at the nice tweed sportcoats in the window, but i don't go inside because I've never been able to afford anything in there (I never even seen anything of theirs in thrift shops around NYC either), also they look very snooty in there and I'm afraid I'm gonna get their beige rugs dirty with my poor person dirty shoes. Does anyone know if they have warehouse sales like Barney's does ... did :- ( I can't imagine how they stay in business charging the prices they do.


I haven't needed to buy those type of clothes in, now, almost eight years (I'm still fully employed, I just work from home and my existing biz wardrobe more than meets my current needs), so take this information in light of that time frame.

Back when I bought biz clothes regularly, like you, PS' prices were way outside of my range, but they had two sales a year - (from memory) January (sometimes started the day after Christmas) and June (post Father's Day) - where the prices could be off 50% to 75% on many (not all) items.

The good news is that a lot of things went on sale, so you really could buy the things you wanted (not just the quirky thing or funny colored item). If you are interested, I'm sure you could get on PS' email list or call to find out about its sale schedule.

As to the store's staff, I found them to be, overall, professional. That said, I rarely went in when there wasn't a sale on as I knew I wasn't going to buy, so I pretty much only interacted with the staff during the sale and, as noted, they were professional and helpful. Their style isn't overly warm or effusively friendly, but again, if, for example, you asked them to help find a size of if they knew if something would be going on sale later, they seemed glad to help.

As to your warehouse sale question, I am not aware of any and I never (to my memory) ran into PS clothes in discounters like Century 21 or (in its day) Filene's Basement.


----------



## Mr Thorvald

I was at Brooks Brothers the other day, and their Harris tweed jackets are on sale, but all are 2 button. I prefer the J Press 3 button. Brooks actually had some 3 button suits, but they were Golden Fleece, so in the higher end of the price range. The 1818 suits are still only 2 button. But moving in the right direction with the new 3 button suit jackets. I miss the suit separates that Brooks used to have, since I have about 4 old navy 3 button suit jackets from Brooks and Press, and they are still in good condition and only a little bit tight on me. But all the pants have gone the way of all flesh. When I was at Brooks I went up to the 4th floor and looked at the odd trousers, and the gentleman there said, I see where you're going with this, but the odd trousers in gabardine are similar to the suit fabric, but are a lighter shade of navy, so they won't match. Apparently the suits are a very black-ish shade of navy, somewhere between a blue and a black, but trousers sold on their own are more blue-ish, so if you try to match the colors it doesn't quite work. Close but no cigar. I bought a nice pair of flat front navy wool trousers from J Crew at an outlet that are good, and have a JA Bank pair that are almost black and match pretty well. I can't buy online because can't see in photos well enough to match. Might have to end up paying full price. BTW, Brooks had some lovely heavy soft flannel odd trousers on the 4th floor in some nice muted colors. $250 is pretty outrageous, but they should go on sale soon since they are heavy winter woolins. Keeping my eyes out. As someone rich once said, you get rich buying beachballs in the winter.


----------



## Color 8

Mr Thorvald said:


> I was at Brooks Brothers the other day, and their Harris tweed jackets are on sale, but all are 2 button. I prefer the J Press 3 button. Brooks actually had some 3 button suits, but they were Golden Fleece, so in the higher end of the price range. The 1818 suits are still only 2 button. But moving in the right direction with the new 3 button suit jackets. I miss the suit separates that Brooks used to have, since I have about 4 old navy 3 button suit jackets from Brooks and Press, and they are still in good condition and only a little bit tight on me. But all the pants have gone the way of all flesh. When I was at Brooks I went up to the 4th floor and looked at the odd trousers, and the gentleman there said, I see where you're going with this, but the odd trousers in gabardine are similar to the suit fabric, but are a lighter shade of navy, so they won't match. Apparently the suits are a very black-ish shade of navy, somewhere between a blue and a black, but trousers sold on their own are more blue-ish, so if you try to match the colors it doesn't quite work. Close but no cigar. I bought a nice pair of flat front navy wool trousers from J Crew at an outlet that are good, and have a JA Bank pair that are almost black and match pretty well. I can't buy online because can't see in photos well enough to match. Might have to end up paying full price. BTW, Brooks had some lovely heavy soft flannel odd trousers on the 4th floor in some nice muted colors. $250 is pretty outrageous, but they should go on sale soon since they are heavy winter woolins. Keeping my eyes out. As someone rich once said, you get rich buying beachballs in the winter.


Brooks ran huge Christmas sales, followed by even bigger Winter Clearance sales, for most of December and January. There were a lot of great flannel pants, sport jackets etc. at 50% off, or more.

Paul Stuart is wrapping up their Winter Clearance sale now. There are still some nice items left, depending on your size.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Note the black shoes. And the bust of Sarge.


----------



## eagle2250

^^
Given the apparent dating of the illustration, it seems the rise on those trousers should be a bit higher on the waist. The ones pictured appear to be barely clearing and resting upon the gentleman's hip saddle. :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

The hat, the hat's tweed (and maybe the dog), so the pic's legal.


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> The hat, the hat's tweed (and maybe the dog), so the pic's legal.
> 
> View attachment 40800


And a fine, tweedy wee duggie it is.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## ran23

Sadly, these mornings are getting warmer now.


----------



## Oldsarge

Another tweed and tweedy doggie.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 40822
> 
> 
> Another tweed and tweedy doggie.


Looks a little like this! 

https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/threads/pocket-square-ponderings.242611/


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Looks a little like this!
> 
> https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/threads/pocket-square-ponderings.242611/


Funny that you should mention that . . .


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Peak and Pine

Favorite tweed pic of March (so far).


----------



## Fading Fast

Think this could be a repeat, but other than the PS (which, IMO, I believe is unnecessary and detracts from the visual), this is pretty darn perfect.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 40876
> 
> Think this could be a repeat, but other than the PS (which, IMO, I believe is unnecessary and detracts from the visual), this is pretty darn perfect.


We will convert you yet. I want you to take pen and paper and write 100 times.....I will like pocket square. 
Subliminal recordings played throughout sleep time, suggesting you will like pocket square. 
No wait, that might effect SO as well , hey, but then again


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

I side with Fast on this, and he knows that. Pretty much a nix on all pocket squares with tie. Am very hard line on this. Unless of course the intent is not to be taken seriously. In the summer with a light maybe linen jacket and *no* tie and *open collar* I might reach for one of the four squares I own. In the summer I don't want to be taken seriously.

See above, my pick for best tweed pic so far in March. Pocket square where?


----------



## EclecticSr.

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> I side with Fast on this, and he knows that. Pretty much a nix on all pocket squares with tie. Am very hard line on this. Unless of course the intent is not to be taken seriously. In the summer with a light maybe linen jacket and *no* tie and *open collar* I might reach for one of the four squares I own. In the summer I don't want to be taken seriously.
> 
> See above, my pick for best tweed pic so far in March. Pocket square where?


Ah, but at least you own four. I take you seriously regardless of season.
I think fast knows I take him seriously as well.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Though young, doubting this bunch is feeling The Bern. Swell duds tho, from the Let'em Eat Cake boutique just down the street.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^
Zooming in on the above you see another threesome dressed like the first, like there was no furnace in that book-filled behemoth. Then you realize (or I just did) that the three are sitting in front of a mirror.


----------



## EclecticSr.

^^^ Did the three reflective rays in the mirror cause you to take the zoom in?


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

I, er, didn't see those. Keep in mind I'm participating on an itsy-bitsy cell phone, one I got at $Tree.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## EclecticSr.

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 40880


My eye is drawn to that square and how it pulls the whole look together.
Can't find a thing wrong.


----------



## Flanderian

Title: When Geezers Need a Shave.

Caption: "Where did I put my d***** Gloves!?"


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 40938


I really love those threads...all of them, but you know, he really would not look that jaunty
with a head of white hair and a 38" waist and a bit of a pot. LOL.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Ya know, I really love those threads...all of them, but you know, he really would not look that jaunty
> with a head of white hair and a 38" waist and a bit of a pot. LOL.


You've posted pics of yourself and you'd look outstanding in that outfit other than the flames that would be shooting out of you as you self combust in Florida's heat and all that wool.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 40938


If I were to find that coat it would be an easy buy for me. 
Not sure but are those epaulets.


----------



## Fading Fast

EclecticSr. said:


> If I were to find that coat it would be an easy buy for me.
> Not sure but are those epaulets.


I think they are. I checked, I cannot find any source on the pic - sorry.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> I think they are. I checked, I cannot find any source on the pic - sorry.


No problem, thanks for checking.


----------



## RogerP

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 40938


Oh my what lovely fabric! I might wish for the length to descend just past the knee.


----------



## Flanderian

While it can be entertaining to see how many balls you can keep in the air at one time, editing is sometimes the greater art. A bridge too far, or less could be more -


----------



## Peak and Pine

You are instructed to overlook the neck tattoos, as well as the stoopid hat.


----------



## Oldsarge

And the buttoned bottom vest button.


----------



## StephenRG

Peak and Pine said:


> You are instructed to overlook the neck tattoos, as well as the stoopid hat.


I think the hat is fine, just improperly positioned. But no tie?


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## StephenRG

Oldsarge said:


> And the buttoned bottom vest button.


I would normally agree, but unbuttoning the bottom button would result in a huge gap.


----------



## Peak and Pine

StephenRG said:


> But no tie?


The Peaky Blinders look (something I'm not particularly adverse to).


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> And the buttoned bottom vest button.


Hey, you got buttons, use 'em.


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> Hey, you got buttons, use 'em.


That's how I feel about pockets!


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> v


.

I think I've run into her in Orlando at Disney. She's an anamatronic, right ? But O so almost life-like.


----------



## Color 8

Oldsarge said:


> And the buttoned bottom vest button.


And the buttoned collar button without a tie.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Maybe.
Kinda common, as tweeds go though. Can't see enough of it to really tell. Like does it have an interior water proof pocket so you can carry your gold fish around? Now that would make it un common.

Now this from above...










Color combo, subtle and good. But them Dumbo lapels? Goodness. High gorge (Do not forsake me O my darlin'). Curious as to how large collar must be. Needs a rear shot.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Not sure this is a guy or a gal (and the dominatrix gloves aren't helping), but whadda coat.


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 40974


This doesn't excite me. Along with P&P's objections, the whole thing just doesn't look as though it should be made out of tweed cloth. The cut badly lacks any 'countryside'.


----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> Not sure this is a guy or a gal (and the dominatrix gloves aren't helping), but whadda coat.
> 
> View attachment 40988


Given the prominent Adams apple and the size of the hands covered by those gloves, I'm guessing that is a young, perhaps misguided, young man wearing that handsome coat. Just a thought.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Peak and Pine said:


> Not sure this is a guy or a gal (and the dominatrix gloves aren't helping), but whadda coat.
> 
> View attachment 40988
> 
> [/QUOTE}
> 
> When I blink I see Rorschach.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

^ Hmmm, spezzatura tweed.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Thinking that if the tie and square were removed from the outfit below and the collar unlatched, you would have an outfit passing for jaunty..note the likeable, red pants...and that if you were to wear it like that (up here anyway) to, say the food market, you would be looked upon not askance, but maybe admiringly. By a few.


----------



## Flanderian

I think this gentleman dresses beautifully. I only wish he could be convinced that shoulder top gorges are a fad, as any extreme eventually proves to be, and the TV fold a cliche -


----------



## EclecticSr.

Peak and Pine said:


> Thinking that if the tie and square were removed from the outfit below and the collar unlatched, you would have an outfit passing for jaunty..note the likeable, red pants...and that if you were to wear it like that (up here anyway) to, say the food market, you would be looked upon not askance, but maybe admiringly. By a few.


----------



## ItalianStyle

Peak and Pine said:


> Thinking that if the tie and square were removed from the outfit below and the collar unlatched, you would have an outfit passing for jaunty..note the likeable, red pants...and that if you were to wear it like that (up here anyway) to, say the food market, you would be looked upon not askance, but maybe admiringly. By a few.
> 
> View attachment 40997


The red elbow patches is a bit too much... as in 'trying too hard'...
It should harmonize, not match.


----------



## Peak and Pine

ItalianStyle said:


> The red elbow patches is a bit too much... as in 'trying too hard'...
> It should harmonize, not match.


Correct you are. But there was a fly on my screen obscuring the patch. Or drool. Yes, drool probably. Forget the fly thing. There was no fly. I made that up. It was drool.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Is that actually tweed? It looks pretty crisp to be the real thing.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> Is that actually tweed? It looks pretty crisp to be the real thing.


Ya want _real_ tweed? Here's your real tweed...


----------



## Fading Fast

Cary Grant in a Twill Tweed suit in 1941's "Suspicion"


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Cary Grant in a Twill Tweed suit in 1941's "Suspicion"
> View attachment 41034


Wow! :loveyou:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

The definition of tweed is getting very broad.


----------



## Mr Thorvald

Peak and Pine said:


> Thinking that if the tie and square were removed from the outfit below and the collar unlatched, you would have an outfit passing for jaunty..note the likeable, red pants...and that if you were to wear it like that (up here anyway) to, say the food market, you would be looked upon not askance, but maybe admiringly. By a few.
> 
> View attachment 40997


Nicely cut, I like the thin lapels. J Crew has a line called Crosby that looks a little like that. Too expensive for me, but its got a little room in it. One time I asked a salesperson at the J Crew outlet store on long island if they had Crosby stuff, and she said the head office would rather burn them than give them to the outlet stores; she sounded kind of peeved. I'm thin, but don't like the Tom Brown look, Mongo don't swing that way. The J Crew Ludlow line has re-god-damn-diculously thin lapels and slim-fit waist that looks like you're wearing a cardigan sweater. Steer clear of the Ludlows.


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> The definition of tweed is getting very broad.


That's what I was hinting at. Just because something is plaid or glen check doesn't mean it's tweed. I refuse to accept that cloth so smooth and crisp that it looks like broadcloth is real tweed.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Peak and Pine said:


> Thinking that if the tie and square were removed from the outfit below and the collar unlatched, you would have an outfit passing for jaunty..note the likeable, red pants...and that if you were to wear it like that (up here anyway) to, say the food market, you would be looked upon not askance, but maybe admiringly. By a few.
> 
> View attachment 40997





Peak and Pine said:


> Thinking that if the tie and square were removed from the outfit below and the collar unlatched, you would have an outfit passing for jaunty..note the likeable, red pants...and that if you were to wear it like that (up here anyway) to, say the food market, you would be looked upon not askance, but maybe admiringly. By a few.
> 
> Jacket...check
> Tattersall vest....check
> Shirt..... check
> Trousers..... check
> Elbow patches.... check
> 
> Keep the tie and square and them wimens a t the market would be on me like white on rice.
> The men folk, boy do they get pissed.





Fading Fast said:


> Cary Grant in a Twill Tweed suit in 1941's "Suspicion"
> View attachment 41034


My My, is that a square in Mr. Grants breast pocket?


----------



## Peak and Pine

On mannequin.
So good...










On slob.
So bad...


----------



## Fading Fast

EclecticSr. said:


> My My, is that a square in Mr. Grants breast pocket?


If I had my way, it wouldn't be there, but Cary Grant probably wouldn't be asking me for style guidance anyway.


----------



## 215339

Peak and Pine said:


> On mannequin.
> So good...
> 
> View attachment 41071
> 
> 
> On slob.
> So bad...
> 
> View attachment 41072


Not a fan of the cut. IMO if the gorge is that high, the lapels need to be much more broad, button stance also looks pretty high.

The fabric also reminds me of an old rug, and not in a good way.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> If I had my way, it wouldn't be there, but Cary Grant probably wouldn't be asking me for style guidance anyway.


But,if he were still around , he might take you aside and offer you some guidance in that inimitable style and voice, I can hear it. My good man ______________________________fill in the blank.


----------



## Peak and Pine

delicious_scent said:


> Not a fan of the cut. The fabric also reminds me of an old rug, and not in a good way.


Then I won't be wearing that at your bail hearing. Most of my stuff looks just like that. I post here mostly in my own image because I don't know any better.


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## 215339

Peak and Pine said:


> Then I won't be wearing that at your bail hearing. Most of my stuff looks just like that. I post here mostly in my own image because I don't know any better.


All good, nothing wrong with that at all.

If we all had the exact same tastes, life would be kind of boring, so would this forum.


----------



## Fading Fast

Herringbones:


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Herringbones:
> View attachment 41095
> View attachment 41096
> View attachment 41097


Those are "good bones" for sure. I particularly like the black/white weave...it is indeed a classic autumnal look for the well dressed gentleman!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Herringbones:
> View attachment 41095
> View attachment 41096
> View attachment 41097


Love the bottom ensemble! :loveyou:

Great tweed and great sweater. Reminds me of this -


----------



## Flanderian

With apologies to Patricia Barber, just a button short of class!


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge

Where tweed comes from


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 41128


Ahh . . . . another fabulous tweed! :loveyou:


----------



## 215339

Not sure if Tweed, but he does mention "Somerset Jacketing bunch " and "thick and heavy "


__
http://instagr.am/p/B9WtlT7Jsas/


----------



## Flanderian

delicious_scent said:


> Not sure if Tweed, but he does mention "Somerset Jacketing bunch " and "thick and heavy "
> 
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/B9WtlT7Jsas/


Beautiful stuff!

I think most likely tweed, though very thick cashmere can sometimes have a similar texture.


----------



## 215339

Flanderian said:


> Beautiful stuff!
> 
> I think most likely tweed, though very thick cashmere can sometimes have a similar texture.


I run very hot, but seeing all these turtleneck+tweed combos has me tempted.


----------



## Oldsarge

delicious_scent said:


> Not sure if Tweed, but he does mention "Somerset Jacketing bunch " and "thick and heavy "
> 
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/B9WtlT7Jsas/


Gorgeous! However, I would bet a quarter that it's cashmere rather than tweed. And here I have sworn off any more clothes this year . . .


----------



## 215339

Well apparently we're all off

https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/co...ng/products/forest-green-windowpane-jacketing
12/13oz fine merino wool.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian

delicious_scent said:


> Well apparently we're all off
> 
> https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/co...ng/products/forest-green-windowpane-jacketing
> 12/13oz fine merino wool.


Ah . . . ! More superb cloth from Fox Brothers!

To a degree, tweed is in the eye of the beholder, but I'd personally judge this as a more refined and lighter weight version thereof.

Edit: And thank the lawd! Has Britain at last ended its love affair with the mid-sternum buttoned, shoulder top gorged, skinny lapeled suit and hip-hugger trousers!? We can only pray! :icon_saint7kg:


----------



## Peak and Pine

delicious_scent said:


> Well apparently we're all off.


Yes, you all are.
If you believe that to be _forest green,_ you'd be mightily confused if you saw where I live. _Pea soup_ it is, an unusual color for mens wear. Okay though. But it seems that if a jacket's cloth is to have a prominent feature, it would be one or the other, pattern or color. This one has two, odd color and giant window pane. So nix for me on this. Unless...










...it were on my bed like that, as a blanket.


----------



## 215339

Flanderian said:


> Ah . . . ! More superb cloth from Fox Brothers!
> 
> To a degree, tweed is in the eye of the beholder, but I'd personally judge this as a more refined and lighter weight version thereof.
> 
> Edit: And thank the lawd! Has Britain at last ended its love affair with the mid-sternum buttoned, shoulder top gorged, skinny lapeled suit and hip-hugger trousers!? We can only pray! :icon_saint7kg:


Great cloth indeed, this does sound like something I'd be able to wear.

Likely not yet, this was probably a special commission in-shop for S&M, who can order in Fox cloth.


Peak and Pine said:


> Yes, you all are.
> If you believe that to be _forest green,_ you'd be mightily confused if you saw where I live. _Pea soup_ it is, an unusual color for mens wear. Okay though. But it seems that if a jacket's cloth is to have a prominent feature, it would be one or the other, pattern or color. This one has two, odd color and giant window pane. So nix for me on this. Unless...
> 
> View attachment 41153
> 
> 
> ...it were on my bed like that, as a blanket.


Does sound like a pretty comfy blanket, a lot nicer than the flammable polyester crap that my family decided to buy.

Though would be an awfully expensive blanket..

Unusual colour indeed, that's why I posted it. I've an obsession with green.


----------



## Peak and Pine

delicious_scent said:


> I've an obsession with green.


Me too. Just not that green. So much.
(Peeved I am that green is not a primary color. I understand technically why, but doesn't nature have any say?)


----------



## 215339

Peak and Pine said:


> Me too. Just not that green. So much.
> *(Peeved I am that green is not a primary color. I understand technically why, but doesn't nature have any say?)*


100% agree.


----------



## StephenRG

Peak and Pine said:


> Me too. Just not that green. So much.
> (Peeved I am that green is not a primary color. I understand technically why, but doesn't nature have any say?)


It is - it is, however, not a primary pigment. 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Primary_color


----------



## Peak and Pine

StephenRG said:


> It is - it is, however, not a primary pigment. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Primary_color


Sent me back to school, you did. The Wiki article challenged my ability to stay awake because basically I'm a Crayola kinda guy. But thanks. You know how they say you're never too old to learn new stuff? That's incorrect.


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> Sent me back to school, you did. The Wiki article challenged my ability to stay awake because basically I'm a Crayola kinda guy. But thanks. You know how they say you're never too old to learn new stuff? That's incorrect.


Physics, in the person of optics, really doesn't care what we think. It simply is. A few painting classes quickly strips away our desire to impose upon the universe. This is why blue and brown are perfectly compatible despite the protests of the ignoranti.


----------



## Fading Fast

I know, you can hardly see the, maybe, tweed sport coat, but the overall pic is just so nice, that here it is anyway. I'd swap the shirt out for an Oxford as, IMO, the outfit calls for a "sturdier" shirt material, but still, darn nice get-up. The loden-green duffle, soft-grey sport coat and camel-color sweater work wonderfully together.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 41168
> 
> I know, you can hardly see the, maybe, tweed sport coat, but the overall pic is just so nice, that here it is anyway. I'd swap the shirt out for an Oxford as, IMO, the outfit calls for a "sturdier" shirt material, but still, darn nice get-up. The loden-green duffle, soft-grey sport coat and camel-color sweater work wonderfully together.


It looks positively cuddly.


----------



## Flanderian

delicious_scent said:


> Great cloth indeed, this does sound like something I'd be able to wear.
> 
> Likely not yet, this was probably a special commission in-shop for S&M, who can order in Fox cloth.
> 
> Does sound like a pretty comfy blanket, a lot nicer than the flammable polyester crap that my family decided to buy.
> 
> Though would be an awfully expensive blanket..
> 
> Unusual colour indeed, that's why I posted it. I've an obsession with green.


Ahh . . . Fox Brothers' Somerset bunch does have so many lovely choices! As a checkaholic, I'd find it difficult to resist the one below. I'd like it made up as a SB 2-button jacket, perhaps with an extended throat latch collar, and open patch pockets up and down. So many options for pairing trousers! Fine wale chocolate corduroy, foggy lighter grey flannel, stouter golden tan gabardine.

https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/collections/somerset-jacketing/products/brown-houndstooth-jacketing


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## EclecticSr.

Flanderian said:


> Ahh . . . Fox Brothers' Somerset bunch does have so many lovely choices! As a checkaholic, I'd find it difficult to resist the one below. I'd like it made up as a SB 2-button jacket, perhaps with an extended throat latch collar, and open patch pockets up and down. So many options for pairing trousers! Fine wale chocolate corduroy, foggy lighter grey flannel, stouter golden tan gabardine.
> 
> https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/collections/somerset-jacketing/products/brown-houndstooth-jacketing


Excellent choice, I have two, one by Sartoria Parma and one by Crombie. May not be Fox cloth, I don't know. The one by Crombie has slightly darker ground but not by much. Both as soft as cashmere.
Sartoria has bottom patch top besom , Crombie, flap and besom.


----------



## 215339

Flanderian said:


> Ahh . . . Fox Brothers' Somerset bunch does have so many lovely choices! As a checkaholic, I'd find it difficult to resist the one below. I'd like it made up as a SB 2-button jacket, perhaps with an extended throat latch collar, and open patch pockets up and down. So many options for pairing trousers! Fine wale chocolate corduroy, foggy lighter grey flannel, stouter golden tan gabardine.
> 
> https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/collections/somerset-jacketing/products/brown-houndstooth-jacketing


I forgot the existence of extended throat latch collars, that'd be very useful.

Tan cavalry twill comes to mind. Iron-like drape with the jacket and trousers.

Fox cloth is so bloody expensive unfortunately.


----------



## Peak and Pine

This could very well be tweed. The lack of good resolution prevents a definitive answer. Pretend that it is. And what grabs even more, to a New Englander's penchant for proper presentation, is the staging.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Peak and Pine said:


> This could very well be tweed. The lack of good resolution prevents a definitive answer. Pretend that it is. And what grabs even more, to a New Englander's penchant for proper presentation, is the staging.
> 
> View attachment 41196


Kudos to the stylist and the photographer, Flawless. 
Granted, they had near perfection to work with.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

Thinking of buying...









...tweed shoes. Mama always said my feet would look good in d'tweeds, or something like that. From Samuel Windsor, British seller, made in India, rubber soled (as you can see) 360° Goodyear welted and...wait for it...99 bucks, with free returns, meaning they pay the postage. Whadda you think? (Standard width tho, D or Medium.)


----------



## Peak and Pine

^
They're also available as a boot...which I prefer to call two-storey shoes...for a whopping $115. But here in Maine you have to be over 21 to buy extra long laces and while I am, I don't look it, so I think I'll leave the pimp boot thing to Momsdoc and RogerP and just go with the one-storey model.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 41199


Love the tweeds of both the sport jacket and top coat, but the top coat is especially exceptional! :beer:


----------



## Flanderian

The March Hare?


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Love the tweeds of both the sport jacket and top coat, but the top coat is especially exceptional! :beer:


I'd love the top coat even if it didn't have blonde hair, um, raglan sleeves.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I'd love the top coat even if it didn't have blonde hair, um, raglan sleeves.


Perhaps he owns a Golden!


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> This could very well be tweed. The lack of good resolution prevents a definitive answer. Pretend that it is. And what grabs even more, to a New Englander's penchant for proper presentation, is the staging.
> 
> View attachment 41196


For genuinely stupendous, just add a panama hat. Magnificent, just magnificent.


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> Thinking of buying...
> 
> View attachment 41203
> 
> ...tweed shoes. Mama always said my feet would look good in d'tweeds, or something like that. From Samuel Windsor, British seller, made in India, rubber soled (as you can see) 360° Goodyear welted and...wait for it...99 bucks, with free returns, meaning they pay the postage. Whadda you think? (Standard width tho, D or Medium.)


I think you should send them a check . . . and report back.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Peak and Pine said:


> Thinking of buying...
> 
> View attachment 41203
> 
> ...tweed shoes. Mama always said my feet would look good in d'tweeds, or something like that. From Samuel Windsor, British seller, made in India, rubber soled (as you can see) 360° Goodyear welted and...wait for it...99 bucks, with free returns, meaning they pay the postage. Whadda you think? (Standard width tho, D or Medium.)


 Not up my street but, If Mama likes, why disappoint. 
I won't turn my eye askance.


----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> Thinking of buying...
> 
> View attachment 41203
> 
> ...tweed shoes. Mama always said my feet would look good in d'tweeds, or something like that. From Samuel Windsor, British seller, made in India, rubber soled (as you can see) 360° Goodyear welted and...wait for it...99 bucks, with free returns, meaning they pay the postage. Whadda you think? (Standard width tho, D or Medium.)


Just a note of caution...I have purchased a few spectator designs with fabric inserts (not tweed) constituting portions of the shoes construction and have learned the hard way that the fabric portions of the shoes became soiled and wore more quickly than the leather parts of the design. This lead to the premature disposal of those shoes.


----------



## Peak and Pine

eagle2250 said:


> Just a note of caution...I have learned the hard way that the fabric portions of the shoes became soiled and worn more quickly than the leather parts of the design.


Caution noted. By _not tweed _I assume you're referring to a light-colored top, like linen. I have those. And yes, soiling shows up more there. But dare devil that I am, am thinking about going with the tweeds. I can afford them because my dedicated toilet paper and canned beans money is useless, every store around is out.


----------



## 215339

Peak and Pine said:


> This could very well be tweed. The lack of good resolution prevents a definitive answer. Pretend that it is. And what grabs even more, to a New Englander's penchant for proper presentation, is the staging.
> 
> View attachment 41196


It doesn't get more perfect than this.


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> Caution noted. By _not tweed _I assume you're referring to a light-colored top, like linen. I have those. And yes, soiling shows up more there. But dare devil that I am, am thinking about going with the tweeds. I can afford them because my dedicated toilet paper and canned beans money is useless, every store around is out.


But do you have enough mayonnaise?


----------



## Peak and Pine

This is from Orvis. I don't have this coat, but I have an Orvis tweed (action back) and the quality is quality. The color here is swamp green. Nomenclature, mine. Unlike that other, loud, green thing posted recently as forest green which it wasn't, this one could be worn in the swamp and the gators wouldn't even notice. I like this a lot, nice big, but subtle, plaidsy waidsies and a two-roll-three high stance.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Now we're on to something...










Full Norfolk donegal outer coat and a sweater that takes a cue from Fair Isle, but not nearly as precious. Good. Though I wouldn't wear a tie here, the mannequin wants to and the choice is not bad.


----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> Now we're on to something...
> 
> View attachment 41236
> 
> 
> Full Norfolk donegal outer coat and a sweater that takes a cue from Fair Isle, but not nearly as precious. Good. Though I wouldn't wear a tie here, the mannequin wants to and the choice is not bad.


Tis one very handsome jacket, a coat that makes me want to move back North! Alas, GrandmaD (AKA: Mrs Eagle) says no...not until the grand kids leave the nest.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Peak and Pine said:


> Now we're on to something...
> 
> View attachment 41236
> 
> 
> Full Norfolk donegal outer coat and a sweater that takes a cue from Fair Isle, but not nearly as precious. Good. Though I wouldn't wear a tie here, the mannequin wants to and the choice is not bad.


I guess it would be foolish to ask where one might find that jacket.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Peak and Pine said:


> This is from Orvis. I don't have this coat, but I have an Orvis tweed (action back) and the quality is quality. The color here is swamp green. Nomenclature, mine. Unlike that other, loud, green thing posted recently as forest green which it wasn't, this one could be worn in the swamp and the gators wouldn't even notice. I like this a lot, nice big, but subtle, plaidsy waidsies and a two-roll-three high stance.
> 
> View attachment 41235


I also own at least two Orvis jackets, maybe three. One action back in brown tweed and at sale price 
they are indeed very nice.


----------



## Fading Fast

Too much going on here for me, but I always lean that way.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 41237
> 
> Too much going on here for me, but I always lean that way.


Because it looks so nice, I will nitpick:

I wish youngsters (And oldsters who wannabe.) would stop leaving one or more buttons undone at the top of tailored vests/waistcoat. Not because "it isn't done" but because it looks like cr*p.

All beautiful pieces, but this lovely, bold tweed needs a calmer shirt and tie.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## StephenRG

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 41257


If one is left-handed, should the leather patch be on the left shoulder?


----------



## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 41237
> 
> Too much going on here for me, but I always lean that way.


definitely way too much going on.

a solid burgundy knit tie would work better


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 41257
> 
> 
> View attachment 41258


Very good, Sarge. Poor display tho, deserves better. They've pinned the waist so severely that the lower quarters are yanked open like cafe curtains, the throat latch has fallen off and just placed there, it's not supposed to be a 3-roll-2, but if you force it into that position, make sure the super-wide lapels you've created by doing so are of equal width. These aren't. But the jacket cloth is phenominal, as is its shape. And worth posting despite the pic's creator not understanding necktie harmony or bothering to button the shirt collar beneath the tie.


----------



## Peak and Pine

I have in my hand Magic Tweed Dust. By blowing it gently toward the three-pattern crapola outfit posted somewhere above and begrudgingly reproduced below....










...it becomes this, a four-pattern meld that actually does. Meld. And melts, molds, and morphs into a tweedy oxymoron: a subtly vibrant piece of complicated simplicity. Look at it, why is that so hard to do?


----------



## Woofa

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 41257


I Absolutely love this tie but I have to agree with delicious scent that I think it does not go well with the jacket. Switch me out for a blue shirt and if you could find a somber orange tie to bring out the orange in the sc. green would also work.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Woofa said:


> √


Your formatting is screwed up. Your comments appear as part of Sarge's quote. The tie that Delish refers to is not the tie you think. Nit pick is my middle name.


----------



## Oldsarge

StephenRG said:


> If one is left-handed, should the leather patch be on the left shoulder?


 Of course!


----------



## Peak and Pine

Help me out. Is the vest and jacket a match, or is the vest darker than the jacket? Either way, match or no match, this is good stuff. Well put together. Though the gorge is so high it's outa the picture, but so what. This is the sorta outfit that should grace my delicate, fast aging body.


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> Very good, Sarge. Poor display tho, deserves better. They've pinned the waist so severely that the lower quarters are yanked open like cafe curtains, the throat latch has fallen off and just placed there, it's not supposed to be a 3-roll-2, but if you force it into that position, make sure the super-wide lapels you've created by doing so are of equal width. These aren't. But the jacket cloth is phenominal, as is its shape. And worth posting despite the pic's creator not understanding necktie harmony or bothering to button the shirt collar beneath the tie.


I almost didn't post it because of the poor presentation but the jacket was so nice, I gritted my teeth and copied it anyway.


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> Help me out. Is the vest and jacket a match, or is the vest darker than the jacket? Either way, match or no match, this is good stuff. Well put together. Though the gorge is so high it's outa the picture, but so what. This is the sorta outfit that should grace my delicate, fast aging body.
> 
> View attachment 41274


I think the vest is a match. My guess is that this is either a complete 3-piece suit or one of those odd British things were the vest and coat go with odd trousers. I don't like it that way because it cuts you in half! So. . . I will be magnanimous and believe it to be a very nice suit. And the tie is an excellent choice.


----------



## Woofa

Peak and Pine said:


> Your formatting is screwed up. Your comments appear as part of Sarge's quote. The tie that Delish refers to is not the tie you think. Nit pick is my middle name.


When your right, your right. However I will stand by my preference for a blue shirt and green or orange tie.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Woof. Woof.
(Two Woofs signifies agreement.)


----------



## Peak and Pine

This is the Bus Driver After Work Look. He's taken of his Metro jacket and tossed on this beauty, and off to Hooters. Tremendous jacket. Forget everything else, including the lighting, too light to properly show off this stunner.


----------



## Peak and Pine

The vest in the pic below is a Pendleton. You can tell by the unremarkable buttons* and the fact that I own this plaid in two items, a shirt and a Topster (but not a vest). I think it looks good under the h'bone tweed because the bones are (I think) olive-y. Some of the flotsam could stand to be removed. Leave the vest, jacket and shirt and I could crawl into this pretty quick..

*Pendleton later changed their metal buttons to the more appropriate rams head.


----------



## ItalianStyle

Peak and Pine said:


> This is the Bus Driver After Work Look. He's taken of his Metro jacket and tossed on this beauty, and off to Hooters. Tremendous jacket. Forget everything else, including the lighting, too light to properly show off this stunner.
> 
> View attachment 41276


I would change the buttons to, say, brown horn buttons. When I first looked at the photo, my brain registered the buttons long _before_ the jacket itself...

And get rid of that Isaia emblem...


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> This is the Bus Driver After Work Look. He's taken of his Metro jacket and tossed on this beauty, and off to Hooters. Tremendous jacket. Forget everything else, including the lighting, too light to properly show off this stunner.
> 
> View attachment 41276


And when he got to Hooters, the girls took one look, closed the shop and took him home.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 41278


Vintage, I suspect?
Ivy with a vengeance! irate:


----------



## Flanderian

Tweed like 'ya mean it!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Vintage, I suspect?
> Ivy with a vengeance! irate:


Agreed. Looks like it's from an "Ivy retrospective" or some such similar thing.



Flanderian said:


> Tweed like 'ya mean it!
> 
> View attachment 41296


Tyrone Power loved bold herringbone - wore it in many of his movies.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Tyrone Power loved bold herringbone - wore it in many of his movies.


That tweed looks so beautifully thick and soft! Ahh . . . ! :loveyou:


----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 41284


I cannot recall ever seeing Tweed looking any better than in the picture above. Ya just gotta love the Irish on St Paddy's Day!


----------



## Color 8

eagle2250 said:


> I cannot recall ever seeing Tweed looking any better than in the picture above. Ya just gotta love the Irish on St Paddy's Day!


All the bars here are closed due to Coronavirus ! It's the first time I haven't made my usual St. Patrick's Day rounds in 25 years !


----------



## Color 8

Flanderian said:


> Tweed like 'ya mean it!
> 
> View attachment 41296


Outstanding.


----------



## Peak and Pine

The Tyrone Power picture above, from the era of the unrealistic shoulders and the itsy-bitsy gorge. Meh.

What's unique about the picture below, besides my drool all over it, is the action back gusset begins near the inseam of the sleeve rather than higher up at the shoulder seam. Useful maybe if you're reaching down to pet the iguana; not so much if you're reaching up to get him off the walls. Anyway, really like the presentation, the greenery against the brown, the lighting and the wearer's positioning.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

Again...








...showing how the action back stops near the sleeve inseam. And below, the more common action back, extending all the way to the shoulder seam. Lined in suede, a nice detail, and both jackets, primo.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Personal take:
What you'll see below is perfection in every pixel and should you not agree, you will not disappoint, for I know the bent this thread can take, a headless zoom on an overstuffed outfit, stripes and plaids and collar pins, pocket squares, sweaters and vests and tweed upon tweed. Fine. But below is not like that...

.










A snow white shirt. You can't go wrong..
Well-worn khakis, a little big, the tightened belt has cinched them giving pleat-like lines in front. Cream and brown h'bone jacket, darted with a hard three stance, buttoning only the top, a 60s touch...for some of us back then...creating a hybrid between a buttoned jacket and an unbuttoned one. Repp tie in a simple two-stripe, quickly tied in a pinch knot and flowing free. And of course the kid's unkempt hair and whimsical look. And no affectation stuffed in the breast pocket.

I dress like that, but of course don't look like that. Once, maybe. But it's a look for all seasons and all ages. Simple, tweedy, comfy. Well worn, but clean with good posture at any age. Pleasant, unaffected, non threatening. When we're done with Social Distancing, surround me with folks in looks like that. I'll do my part.


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> Personal take:
> What you'll see below is perfection in every pixel and should you not agree, you will not disappoint, for I know the bent this thread can take, a headless zoom on an overstuffed outfit, stripes and plaids and collar pins, pocket squares, sweaters and vests and tweed upon tweed. Fine. But below is not like that...
> 
> .
> 
> View attachment 41339
> 
> 
> A snow white shirt. You can't go wrong..
> Well-worn khakis, a little big, the tightened belt has cinched them giving pleat-like lines in front. Cream and brown h'bone jacket, darted with a hard three stance, buttoning only the top, a 60s touch...for some of us back then...creating a hybrid between a buttoned jacket and an unbuttoned one. Repp tie in a simple two-stripe, quickly tied in a pinch knot and flowing free. And of course the kid's unkempt hair and whimsical look. And no affectation stuffed in the breast pocket.
> 
> I dress like that, but of course don't look like that. Once, maybe. But it's a look for all seasons and all ages. Simple, tweedy, comfy. Well worn, but clean with good posture at any age. Pleasant, unaffected, non threatening. When we're done with Social Distancing, surround me with folks in looks like that. I'll do my part.


And one heckova jacket!


----------



## 215339

Peak and Pine said:


> Personal take:
> What you'll see below is perfection in every pixel and should you not agree, you will not disappoint, for I know the bent this thread can take, a headless zoom on an overstuffed outfit, stripes and plaids and collar pins, pocket squares, sweaters and vests and tweed upon tweed. Fine. But below is not like that...
> 
> .
> 
> View attachment 41339
> 
> 
> A snow white shirt. You can't go wrong..
> Well-worn khakis, a little big, the tightened belt has cinched them giving pleat-like lines in front. Cream and brown h'bone jacket, darted with a hard three stance, buttoning only the top, a 60s touch...for some of us back then...creating a hybrid between a buttoned jacket and an unbuttoned one. Repp tie in a simple two-stripe, quickly tied in a pinch knot and flowing free. And of course the kid's unkempt hair and whimsical look. And no affectation stuffed in the breast pocket.
> 
> I dress like that, but of course don't look like that. Once, maybe. But it's a look for all seasons and all ages. Simple, tweedy, comfy. Well worn, but clean with good posture at any age. Pleasant, unaffected, non threatening. When we're done with Social Distancing, surround me with folks in looks like that. I'll do my part.


Incoming fussing and preferences.

The changes I would make is as follows:

-Softer shoulders and softer shoulder expression. Those are very strong shoulders. 
-Consequently, possibly narrower shoulders, otherwise the extended shoulder would droop.
-Triple patch pockets, rounded, no flaps
-Cream OCBD, long points. 3.75"
-Swap tie for burgundy or olive green wool knit tie.


----------



## Peak and Pine

delicious_scent said:


> The changes I would make is as follows:


No. No changes, except in your grammar.

Go find yoir own picture of absolute perfection. This one's mine. (Didn't you recently post a picture of yourself in a bath robe? Well there you go, that's _your _picture of perfection, ready made.)


----------



## Peak and Pine

I think it's great that not many in the outside world are familiar with the sort of jacket below, even less actually own one, and of those, few seem not to be perplexed as to when or where to wear them. This then leaves the look all to me (although I've never noticed anyone actually _looking_ at mine ).(But dream a little dream with me.) Where to wear? Not in the places originally intended. There's camo for that now. On the moors maybe, but we only have one moor in Maine and it's closed due to the corona. No, you wear the full Norfolk any where you want, any time you want, 24/7. There.










* This is not mine. I have a straight suit in English Thornproof in similar color and pattern. And I have a full Norfolk in Harris in plain sage. The above is sorta a melding of the two.


----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> I think it's great that not many in the outside world are familiar with the sort of jacket below, even less actually own one, and of those, few seem not to be perplexed as to when or where to wear them. This then leaves the look all to me (although I've never noticed anyone actually _looking_ at mine ).(But dream a little dream with me.) Where to wear? Not in the places originally intended. There's camo for that now. On the moors maybe, but we only have one moor in Maine and it's closed due to the corona. No, you wear the full Norfolk any where you want, any time you want, 24/7. There.
> 
> View attachment 41353
> 
> 
> * This is not mine. I have a straight suit in English Thornproof in similar color and pattern. And I have a full Norfolk in Harris in plain sage. The above is sorta a melding of the two.


I've always been a fan of the Keeper's Jacket design...great looking, hard wearing, work wear (I guess it would be considered)! Stirs up memories of many pf the distinctive military uniform designs we have seen throughout our years. Perhaps that is the reason the Keeper Jacket design so appeals to me? :icon_scratch: In any event, that is a great looking jacket.


----------



## Peak and Pine

eagle2250 said:


> ...that is a great looking jacket.


It is, isn't it.
I mentioned that I had similar, as a three-button, not as a Norfolk. Below is a picture (not mine) of similar suiting as the above in a straight single breast, in the English manner. Some years ago when Bookster was viable, someone here lodged a loud, public complaint against the company, a company I knew nothing about, but the complaint was so ludicrous I defended Bookster over a number of posts. Peter, the owner, contacted me with thanks and offered me a vintage suit for essentially pennies. And that is how I got the suit similar to the one below. Have never worn, needs a fitting. Will dig it out this spring (and post, or so he says.)


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

Recently here and on other clothing sites it seems popular to decry the use of what's called "shiny silk" ties. Whereas to me that's what silk is, shiny, as in "smooth as silk", slubs and other variations seeming adulterations, though often quite nice. The shiny version is thought not to go well particularly with rougher fabrics. Like the one's this thread is about. Offered below is opposition to that theory...


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 41355
> View attachment 41356


Both very handsome! :beer:


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> It is, isn't it.
> I mentioned that I had similar, as a three-button, not as a Norfolk. Below is a picture (not mine) of similar suiting as the above in a straight single breast, in the English manner. Some years ago when Bookster was viable, someone here lodged a loud, public complaint against the company, a company I knew nothing about, but the complaint was so ludicrous I defended Bookster over a number of posts. Peter, the owner, contacted me with thanks and offered me a vintage suit for essentially pennies. And that is how I got the suit similar to the one below. Have never worn, needs a fitting. Will dig it out this spring (and post, or so he says.)
> 
> View attachment 41354


I have one that I bought (on eBay, of course!) to take to Great Britain for driven pheasant. However, that has been put off for another year. And since I'm self-quarantined for 'the duration', it's taking up space in a closet.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Flanderian

Tweed, and what you wear under it -


----------



## Peak and Pine

I have returned to edit this, for some may think I put this up because I like it. Neck down to knees up, yeah okay. The rest, including the part where he appears to be secretly sticking the handle of the golf club up his...well never mind. So this gets a partial like. And I hope someone posts something else real quick so this one gets buried.


----------



## Peak and Pine

So here...

(And this of course is terrible, a glomming together of a bunch of miserable duds. Except the jacket. That's why it's here, for the jacket. Only.)


----------



## EclecticSr.

Peak and Pine said:


> It is, isn't it.
> I mentioned that I had similar, as a three-button, not as a Norfolk. Below is a picture (not mine) of similar suiting as the above in a straight single breast, in the English manner. Some years ago when Bookster was viable, someone here lodged a loud, public complaint against the company, a company I knew nothing about, but the complaint was so ludicrous I defended Bookster over a number of posts. Peter, the owner, contacted me with thanks and offered me a vintage suit for essentially pennies. And that is how I got the suit similar to the one below. Have never worn, needs a fitting. Will dig it out this spring (and post, or so he says.)
> 
> View attachment 41354


I have a Bookster jacket, similar to the one above and three moleskin trousers made to measure, all prior to when things went South for Peter, that was awhile back.

I have no issue with my purchases from Bookster.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Both very handsome! :beer:


Agreed. I like their very well done old-schoolness.


----------



## Color 8

Peak and Pine said:


> Personal take:
> What you'll see below is perfection in every pixel and should you not agree, you will not disappoint, for I know the bent this thread can take, a headless zoom on an overstuffed outfit, stripes and plaids and collar pins, pocket squares, sweaters and vests and tweed upon tweed. Fine. But below is not like that...
> 
> .
> 
> View attachment 41339
> 
> 
> A snow white shirt. You can't go wrong..
> Well-worn khakis, a little big, the tightened belt has cinched them giving pleat-like lines in front. Cream and brown h'bone jacket, darted with a hard three stance, buttoning only the top, a 60s touch...for some of us back then...creating a hybrid between a buttoned jacket and an unbuttoned one. Repp tie in a simple two-stripe, quickly tied in a pinch knot and flowing free. And of course the kid's unkempt hair and whimsical look. And no affectation stuffed in the breast pocket.
> 
> I dress like that, but of course don't look like that. Once, maybe. But it's a look for all seasons and all ages. Simple, tweedy, comfy. Well worn, but clean with good posture at any age. Pleasant, unaffected, non threatening. When we're done with Social Distancing, surround me with folks in looks like that. I'll do my part.


Apparently you fail to understand that the Internet is a gathering place for extremists - men who shave four or more times per day, or polish their shoes every time they wear them, or send their suits to be cleaned and pressed after every outing, or wear seven different patterns at the same time, etc . . .

There is little room for moderation, much less a simple photo of an insouciant young man in a jacket and tie, with a white shirt and khakis


----------



## ItalianStyle

I had a blanket that looked like that... I gave it to a thrift store... he may have picked it up...
(I'm referring to P&P's photo in post #3.120))


----------



## Peak and Pine

Putting aside the fringed scarf which at first glance gives the idea that the mannequin's head has just been blown off, the below is standard issue for ranking officers in the Tweed Army. I'm doing my hitch currently, getting unchilled by a simpering woodstove, hopefully soon to roar.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 41407
> 
> 
> View attachment 41408
> 
> 
> View attachment 41409


Do we get to choose one of the three?
Okay.
My pick...










...because it's got really puffy swelled seams, it's a donegal, it's a rare cinnamon color and it's got great lapel roll. Wish it all had showed.

(Actually, it may not be so much a donegal as what was known in the 50s as _atomic fleck.)_


----------



## Peak and Pine

For the unknowing, this is atomic fleck, one variation...










...another is where the sprinkles are more like dashes.


----------



## Peak and Pine

I prefer my deer to all be prancing in the same direction, but that's pretty picky wicky. This outfit's posted for charm, lighting, coloring, wild animals and a welcome absence of anything stuck in the breast pocket, like squares, gloves, glasses or Little Debbies


----------



## Peak and Pine

Nice blue on the shirt here. Thought it might be software enhanced, but guy's face looks natural, altho there are more sophisticated programs than mine (Betty Crocker 2.0) that can probably tweek individual items. Anyway, nice, vibrant shirt. A button-down without the affected bell-shaped roll that causes Trad arousal. Most noteworthy, four items, but only one with pattern, a refreshing change to the overstuffed outfits often seen here. All in all, a splintered (loading into a woodstove does that) thumbs up.


----------



## Peak and Pine

This is a new concept to me, emphasising the _me_ part, for it's probably been around for centuries, maybe as part of military at-court dress up, or some such...the double breasted vest with collar designed to be permanently popped. And done so by changing the gorge to a slit. As you may know, tho probably never thought about, a lapeled vest meant to be worn under a jacket has no back collar. It's not slit at the gorge, but at the shoulder seam, and this is done so there will be no excess fabric to bunch and push up the jacket that will be worn over. This is the same reason dress vests have a silk-like back rather than a full fabric surround. But here (below) there'a a full collar which stands up and though double breasted the lapel is not peaked. I like this whole idea a lot.


----------



## EclecticSr.

I like it but wonder, would the lapel of the vest interfere with the lapel of jacket, an interruption of the jacket lapel.


----------



## Fading Fast

Just a little tweed peeking through in a very classic combo.


----------



## Color 8

Peak and Pine said:


> This is a new concept to me, emphasising the _me_ part, for it's probably been around for centuries, maybe as part of military at-court dress up, or some such...the double breasted vest with collar designed to be permanently popped. And done so by changing the gorge to a slit. As you may know, tho probably never thought about, a lapeled vest meant to be worn under a jacket has no back collar. It's not slit at the gorge, but at the shoulder seam, and this is done so there will be no excess fabric to bunch and push up the jacket that will be worn over. This is the same reason dress vests have a silk-like back rather than a full fabric surround. But here (below) there'a a full collar which stands up and though double breasted the lapel is not peaked. I like this whole idea a lot.
> View attachment 41417


Put on that shirt, a tie, that vest and a sport jacket, and you won't have to worry about whiplash


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> This is a new concept to me, emphasising the _me_ part, for it's probably been around for centuries, maybe as part of military at-court dress up, or some such...the double breasted vest with collar designed to be permanently popped. And done so by changing the gorge to a slit. As you may know, tho probably never thought about, a lapeled vest meant to be worn under a jacket has no back collar. It's not slit at the gorge, but at the shoulder seam, and this is done so there will be no excess fabric to bunch and push up the jacket that will be worn over. This is the same reason dress vests have a silk-like back rather than a full fabric surround. But here (below) there'a a full collar which stands up and though double breasted the lapel is not peaked. I like this whole idea a lot.
> View attachment 41417


We're always told that in inclimate weather to 'layer' but seldom do we get any guidance. This would definitely keep you toasty and warm when the sky decides to take out its frustration on you. I like, oh, so much!


----------



## Peak and Pine

Hard three-button, four pocket flaps (the breast one nicely preventing the stuffing of a pocket square), gauntlet cuffs, rich tweed in uncommon large red w'pane overlay...what's not to like?

(The lighting and the general presentation? Certainly. The coat's probably much darker than it appears here. )


----------



## Oldsarge

I'm curious. If you don't want to wear a pocket square, what's the breast pocket for?


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> I'm curious. If you don't want to wear a pocket square, what's the breast pocket for?


Probably the same thing that the bottom button on a suit jacket is for. Nothing.

I don't mean to push my anti-pocket square stance on everyone...wait a minute, yes I do. The world would be a far, far better place if Columbus had not discovered the pocket square (shortly after the New World thing).

In my case, but only twice with more to come, I have extended the lining of the breast pocket, made deeper, so it can hold my Samsung Galaxy J7 SkyPro, with about a half inch showing, something to grab it with, mine in a dark green hard case so what you seen up there equates with a green tee vee fold. Hey it's 2020, times change, imagine the horror expressed in the 1870s when the functional ticket pocket appeared, a convenience to the frequent (train) flyer, as mine is to the cell phone user, me, I'm typing on it right now.


----------



## Peak and Pine

There are a number of clothing items in the illustration below. Which one/ones, if any, belong in this thread? (I think the composition of the art work is particularly good.)


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Particularly fine shoulder.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Another example of the "shiny" tie with tweed. Posted here because I think it looks okay. Actually, more than okay. Swell outfit. Not too many junk patterns fighting each other.









If you zoom down and in to the very bottom, you'll see a bit of pant and belt, both of which meld rich with this.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Self-described as a Lazy Man's Jacket, this garment displays distinct promise as a handsome shirtjacket with bit of editing and evolution. Cloth is describe as light grey herringbone, so I guess I'll have to take their word for it.

I have a deep and abiding hatred for all quarter zip sweaters, so we'll need to delete immediately. Beyond that, an upgrade to the weed used and the whole proposition becomes far more intriguing. It's interesting in that it combines a traditional tailored jacket collar and lapel cut with a remainder more typical of a shirt jacket including slightly over-sized open patch pockets, but aesthetically, I think it works well.


----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> I'm curious. If you don't want to wear a pocket square, what's the breast pocket for?


I have on a few occasions put my glasses in that pocket, but not on a regular basis.


----------



## Color 8

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 41464


The baby will never go hungry.


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Self-described as a Lazy Man's Jacket, this garment displays distinct promise as a handsome shirtjacket with bit of editing and evolution. Cloth is describe as light grey herringbone, so I guess I'll have to take their word for it.
> 
> I have a deep and abiding hatred for all quarter zip sweaters, so we'll need to delete immediately. Beyond that, an upgrade to the weed used and the whole proposition becomes far more intriguing. It's interesting in that it combines a traditional tailored jacket collar and lapel cut with a remainder more typical of a shirt jacket including slightly over-sized open patch pockets, but aesthetically, I think it works well.
> 
> View attachment 41469


Indeed. I'd have it made up in a schlubbed silk tweed and wear it over a pima cotton polo shirt. Just the thing for May through early July and then again in September. Very nice.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Where's the tweed here? (Pic repeated from above)










Copped from a 50s Pendleton I would think. Here's the real deal. Wool. And it really is tweed.


----------



## Peak and Pine

This one's for Sarge. (And me and anyone else who drools over stuff like this.) The Hemmingway touch.


----------



## Peak and Pine

And a variation. Eeny, meeny, miny..can't decide. Previous was Ralph Lauren. This one's Barbour


----------



## Oldsarge

So many tweeds, so little . . . cold weather to wear them in, I guess. The sky was bright today and the thermometer rises. Soon it will be time to put the tweeds away. The only redeeming feature is that the shad will begin their run in May.


----------



## Fading Fast

Actor Jimmy Stewart in 1934. Not sure it's Tweed, but considering how much more popular Tweed suits were then - especially with Hollywood stars - I'm guessing it is.


----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> And a variation. Eeny, meeny, miny..can't decide. Previous was Ralph Lauren. This one's Barbour
> 
> View attachment 41484


My choice would be the Barbour. I prefer the 'gun patch' design on that jacket.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Actor Jimmy Stewart in 1934. Not sure it's Tweed, but considering how much more popular Tweed suits were then - especially with Hollywood stars - I'm guessing it is.
> View attachment 41486


I struggle to make up my mind...was it Jimmy Stewart or Fred Rogers who most impressed me by the work that they did and also by the positive way in which they lived their lives. :icon_scratch:


----------



## IT_cyclist

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 41284


So I see buttons for "like" and "report" I fear that if I hit the former, SWMBO will hit the latter. Or someone will hit the latter and send her the link


----------



## Peak and Pine

Below, a lotta clothes on one person considering he/its not even wearing an outer coat. But well now, don'tcha think the lack of harsh color and overloaded patterns calms it down? Way down maybe, making this a realistically wearable bow-to-another-time suit-up that in no way suggests costume, but of course not to be worn to Talladaga, unless you grease it up a bit










I mentioned recently that the old Bookster once laid a vintage English suit on me, a brand I'd never heard of. _Bladen._ If you zoom in on the tag on the sleeve on the pic above, you'll see it's Bladen. I can speak to their quality (and weight!). I came across another not long ago, so now have two. A bag of cement weighs less than my tweedy duo.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> I struggle to make up my mind...was it Jimmy Stewart or Fred Rogers who most impressed me by the work that they did and also by the positive way in which they lived their lives. :icon_scratch:


I enjoy many Jimmy Stewart movies a lot, but other than that the has, as you imply, a good reputation, I don't know much about his private life. And while I've only heard good things about Mr. Rogers and despite being born in '64 (hence, a kid when his show was on), I've never once (beside a promo clip here or there) seen his show and know nothing about his private life.


----------



## ItalianStyle

Maybe that was their virtue... that they didn't treat their private life as a PR machine, announcing to the world when they had a new haircut or a new girlfriend...?


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Actor Jimmy Stewart in 1934. Not sure it's Tweed, but considering how much more popular Tweed suits were then - especially with Hollywood stars - I'm guessing it is.
> View attachment 41486


I think you're on safe ground to suspect the cloth is tweed, and a beautiful one at that!

Gee, he could look good in clothes, but when you're 6'2' or 6'3" and 140 pounds, it makes it a lot easier.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> I think you're on safe ground to suspect the cloth is tweed, and a beautiful one at that!
> 
> Gee, he could look good in clothes, but when you're 6'2' or 6'3" and 140 pounds, it makes it a lot easier.


Hollywood in that era - Stewart, Gable, Cooper, Grant, etc. - really, truly knew how to dress and put thought and effort into it. Hollywood in the '30s is the closest thing we have to an instantiation of the Apparel Arts fantasy.


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## Peak and Pine

Note how all the vest buttons are done up. No bow to useless fashion for this guy. And the tie, where'd that go? I like this entire look. Plain white shirts set the standard for me. And the canvas shoulders crawling out and onto the sleeves, yeah.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Hollywood in that era - Stewart, Gable, Cooper, Grant, etc. - really, truly knew how to dress and put thought and effort into it. Hollywood in the '30s is the closest thing we have to an instantiation of the Apparel Arts fantasy.


I agree, and sometime they even looked better. :icon_cheers:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## ran23

I was going to put my tweeds away, and here it is 38F this morning standing in line at the Bank, last day the lobby is open.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> I enjoy many Jimmy Stewart movies a lot, but other than that the has, as you imply, a good reputation, I don't know much about his private life. And while I've only heard good things about Mr. Rogers and despite being born in '64 (hence, a kid when his show was on), I've never once (beside a promo clip here or there) seen his show and know nothing about his private life.


Mr Rogers had not produced any shows when I was a kid and being sent off on carrying out "the peoples business" for much of my adult life kept me from watching his shows with my kids, but as a Grandpa and a retiree I think I watched every episode of Mr Roger's Neighborhood and did a whole bunch of other activities with the Grand kids, that I was never around to do with their parents! Jimmy and Fred were two gentlemen who gave a whole lot of good back to their communities. I respect that.


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## Peak and Pine

You're probably aware, but I'm here to remind you, that wearing a super fine tweed like below, but carrying the pants, like below, can get you arrested.







 That aside, whadda rich looking outfit. I would buy this if I hadn't blown all my cash on toilet paper


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## Fading Fast

Another Jimmy Stewart one, looks flanel and probably Tweed:









And one more Stewart pic just 'cause it's so Apparel Arts


----------



## Peak and Pine

Taking a little Jimmy Stewart break here. He may return shortly.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Were those mannequins born Siamese twins? Nice example of how changing one item provides an equally appealing look.


----------



## Flanderian

Grizzly Adams, Italian Style!


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## Peak and Pine

Oooooo, dark, foreboding.
Bring on the ravens. Nevermore.









Don't overlook the pocket on pocket.
Raven food's in the outer one, mouse heads and such.


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## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> Oooooo, dark, foreboding.
> Bring on the ravens. Nevermore.
> 
> View attachment 41597
> 
> Don't overlook the pocket on pocket.
> Raven food's in the outer one, mouse heads and such.


and eyeballs.


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## Peak and Pine

Were it not for the exploding square, I'd think the following was a pretty good deal. Shoulder is my kind of shoulder. I think a semi-spread can look good with tweed, as here. But doubt if the closet would like more than one, but one might be okay, sleeves that is, with leather piping at the cuffs


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## Winhes2

Fading Fast said:


> Another Jimmy Stewart one, looks flanel and probably Tweed:
> View attachment 41560
> 
> 
> And one more Stewart pic just 'cause it's so Apparel Arts
> View attachment 41561


That is some lapel in the top picture. Don't think I've seen them that short and that wide.


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## Fading Fast

Winhes2 said:


> That is some lapel in the top picture. Don't think I've seen them that short and that wide.


Agreed, that stood out to me too. That said, the '30s and, somewhat, the early '40s was a period when more styles, cuts, widths, etc., were acceptable than at anytime since.

By the second half of the '40s, you can see that there were things that were in and things that were out. Be it single versus double breasted suits, cuffs and pleats versus not, widths of ties and lapels, etc. - there was more of a uniform look in those later decades (it changed periodically, but in any given year, certain things were in and others were out); however, in the '30s, you'll see fashionable men in single or double breasted suits, two or three button jackets, wide or narrow lapels or ties, etc.

It's why, while I love the classic Ivy look of the second half of the '50s, my favorite decade for men's clothing is the '30s as it had the most spirt and experimentation in play for men's clothing of any modern time period.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> Were it not for the exploding square, I'd think the following was a pretty good deal. Shoulder is my kind of shoulder. I think a semi-spread can look good with tweed, as here. But doubt if the closet would like more than one, but one might be okay, sleeves that is, with leather piping at the cuffs
> View attachment 41606


Is that a three or four button jacket....it appears there may be a fourth butto hole on the left panel of the jackets waist? Love the finished edge on the sleeve cuffs. Leather trim on a Tweed just works!


----------



## David J. Cooper

Eagle. If you enlarge, you can see it is an illusion. That jacket must be bespoke. Does anyone know it’s maker?


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## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 41611
> View attachment 41612


Outstanding! :icon_cheers:

Sign me up for both.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Outstanding! :icon_cheers:
> 
> Sign me up for both.


My favorite part of the top outfit is the tie and of the bottom, the Dongelness of the Shetland.


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## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 41611
> View attachment 41612


the Ptarmigan tie is especially nice.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian




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## Fading Fast

Might be a repeat, not sure.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 41670
> 
> Might be a repeat, not sure.


But worth repeating if it is.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 41670
> 
> Might be a repeat, not sure.


Magnificent! Aside from the somewhat gimmicky knot, I wouldn't change a thing. :beer:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 41690


👍 👍 👍


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 41679


That could turn out terribly with the wrong complexion...


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> That could turn out terribly with the wrong complexion...


Most certainly. Though being darker with hair to match the ensemble, I could have managed it a while back. But for any lacking a higher contrast complexion, it would be problematic to wear.


----------



## 215339

Flanderian said:


> Most certainly. Though being darker with hair to match the ensemble, I could have managed it a while back. But for any lacking a higher contrast complexion, it would be problematic to wear.





StephenRG said:


> That could turn out terribly with the wrong complexion...


Does this really matter in the real world?

I'm not sure I've ever seen an example of complexion contrasts not working with an outfit before.


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## Oldsarge

There was an attempt to get men to consider their complexions along the lines of women's spring/summer/autumn/winter concept. I never saw that it made any headway though Flusser mentions it. How many of you can even accurately describe yours? When I was young and spending a lot of time outdoors, it was olive. Now? Anyone's guess.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> There was an attempt to get men to consider their complexions along the lines of women's spring/summer/autumn/winter concept. I never saw that it made any headway though Flusser mentions it. How many of you can even accurately describe yours? When I was young and spending a lot of time outdoors, it was olive. Now? Anyone's guess.


I gave up trying to internalize that complexion and color wheel stuff decades ago. I found I was trying to think about the rules/guidelines (and struggling to keep them all straight) when putting an outfit together or looking to buy something and it was hurting not helping the process. That said, if it works for someone, that's great - we all have our own ways of doing things.

I use my "eye" for color and complexion issues and, as a result, I've developed a few personal "rules," such as yellow is not a good color for me or it's important, say, if you are wearing grays and blues together, that the gray's "back-color" must be blue (and not brown as it is for many grays). Obviously, this "back-color" guidance reverses when matching grays and browns.

But those are "after the fact" rules/guidelines that came out of using my "eye" for guidance because, as noted, I couldn't keep all that color wheel / face complexion stuff straight in my head in a usable manner.


----------



## Fading Fast

The pattern is too broken up or mottled or something for my taste:


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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> The pattern is too broken up or mottled or something for my taste:
> View attachment 41705


Alas, that looks like a nocturnal weaving envisioned, but completed with nightmarish result(s)! It appears to be a sartorial version of insanity... :crazy: Almost frightening.


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## Oldsarge

A double breasted, mega-herringbone jacket with popped collar? I, too, will pass.


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## Flanderian

delicious_scent said:


> Does this really matter in the real world?
> 
> I'm not sure I've ever seen an example of complexion contrasts not working with an outfit before.


It can.



Oldsarge said:


> There was an attempt to get men to consider their complexions along the lines of women's spring/summer/autumn/winter concept. I never saw that it made any headway though Flusser mentions it. How many of you can even accurately describe yours? When I was young and spending a lot of time outdoors, it was olive. Now? Anyone's guess.





Fading Fast said:


> I gave up trying to internalize that complexion and color wheel stuff decades ago. I found I was trying to think about the rules/guidelines (and struggling to keep them all straight) when putting an outfit together or looking to buy something and it was hurting not helping the process. That said, if it works for someone, that's great - we all have our own ways of doing things.
> 
> I use my "eye" for color and complexion issues and, as a result, I've developed a few personal "rules," such as yellow is not a good color for me or it's important, say, if you are wearing grays and blues together, that the gray's "back-color" must be blue (and not brown as it is for many grays). Obviously, this "back-color" guidance reverses when matching grays and browns.
> 
> But those are "after the fact" rules/guidelines that came out of using my "eye" for guidance because, as noted, I couldn't keep all that color wheel / face complexion stuff straight in my head in a usable manner.


I don't buy the formulaic money making cutesy color systems, too many exceptions and variables, still, it is a real principle. Not to put words on the end of member StephenRG's pen, but if someone were fair and paler, they could look completely washed out in the ensemble I posted.



Fading Fast said:


> The pattern is too broken up or mottled or something for my taste:
> View attachment 41705


A mighty tweed indeed! A slightly more robust version of the HS&M overcoat I purchased from Wallachs in 1971. :loveyou:


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> ...
> 
> A mighty tweed indeed! A slightly more robust version of the overcoat HS&M overcoat I purchased from Wallachs in 1971. :loveyou:


As you know, I love a bold herringbone pattern (I have a sad, empty life) and I like broken herringbone too, but something is just off in this particular pattern. It looks blurred and messy versus bold or cleanly broken to my eye.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> As you know, I love a bold herringbone pattern (I have a sad, empty life) and I like broken herringbone too, but something is just off in this particular pattern. It looks blurred and messy versus bold or cleanly broken to my eye.


Less common, possibly less classic, it looks like a looser, larger herringbone than what is more often seen, and very reminiscent of fashionable tweeds from the early '70's. Wouldn't want it, but don't hate it!


----------



## StephenRG

delicious_scent said:


> Does this really matter in the real world?
> 
> I'm not sure I've ever seen an example of complexion contrasts not working with an outfit before.


I had a client once who favoured grey suits, pale lilac shirts and light purple-and-grey ties. He had grey hair and a sallow complexion.

It was terrible.


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## Peak and Pine

A favorite cuff design. Full circumference gauntlet, two-and-a-half inches high, curving to zero. Worry not about the pattern match, okay if it's done, okay if it's not. (Shirt sleeve seems on the tight side. Extra Zout may be needed later.)


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 41768


With more hair, I could be him.


----------



## Peak and Pine

*Gauntlet cuffs on tweeds*

Here's one similar to the above, from a different angle. Note how the gauntlet stays straight going into the vent, but curves to zero on the over-flap.










Here is a three-inch version acting more like a turn-up, going straight across










And a very unusual one, a half-gauntlet ending short of the vent and in an upward swoop.










Of the quartet, my favorite is the one first posted above. This...


----------



## Peak and Pine

Hey mister, belts are only a buck at the second-hand store. Like your suit and tie though. Tweedy nice.


----------



## Peak and Pine

If just being _told _about this, would have said no, but seeing it turns me around. (Still, a nix on the square.)


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

Good combo.
Zoom in, it's a blue donegal..
While I like this as-is, but because it's essentially pattern-less, one could be stuck in here, just one, without ill effect. Maybe a blue&white stripe shirt.

Nah. I'd leave as-is, with the 'sand' shirt.

So I'm talking to myself here, should stop that.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## ItalianStyle

Peak and Pine said:


>


What is the purpose of that collar tab... just decoration?
It seems to pair with the button on the collar, but if the lapel is buttoned, would the tab make any difference (considering its position)?
But great looking jacket...!


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak, you're on a roll!


----------



## Peak and Pine

ItalianStyle said:


> What is the purpose of that collar tab...It seems to pair with the button on the collar, but if the lapel is buttoned, would the tab make any difference?


The button hole on a narrow or narrowish lapel cannot reach to the button on the other side short of garroting the wearer and squenching the jacket out of shape. The throat latch bridges that gap. I know this because I live in the Northland and often actually use these contraptions, but the question is fair as is the jacket. You may be unfamiliar with the expoundment invented by Jackie Gleason in the mid-50s, but its use is appropriate for the jacket being discussed, va-va-va-voooooom.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> Peak, you're on a roll!


Why thank ye, Sarge. I've decided I love this thread and may move all my belongings here. (And leave all the food, car and gun threads to you.)


----------



## Peak and Pine

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 41793


Collar kinda spready. Didn't you say here you didn't care for the top button on a vest or sweater to be undone?


----------



## ItalianStyle

Peak and Pine said:


> The button hole on a narrow or narrowish lapel cannot reach to the button on the other side short of garroting the wearer and squenching the jacket out of shape. The throat latch bridges that gap. I know this because I live in the Northland and often actually use these contraptions, but the question is fair as is the jacket. You may be unfamiliar with the expoundment invented by Jackie Gleason in the mid-50s, but its use is appropriate for the jacket being discussed, va-va-va-voooooom.


So it is just long and actually attached to the collar and not the lapel?
That makes sense


----------



## Peak and Pine

ItalianStyle said:


> So it is just long and actually attached to the collar and not the lapel?
> That makes sense


Am nowhere near my closet so am going to wing this. If the collar, not the lapel, is wide enough and the gorge low (or high, I forget) enough, then the collar can close, though not overlap, just touch and the latch can be used there. Which is what is apparently going on with the va-va-va-voomer. But some jackets are configured differently and the closed lapels will leave a gap at the collar, similar to the gap in a priest's collar. Here, the gap stays and the latch is attached further down, as discussed in the previous post, at the top of the lapels, when the lapels don't overlap much or not at all. Cheaper coats will have the latch permanently sticking out. Better ones have two buttons on the button side in order to hang the latch out of sight when not in use. Once hung up, contraband can be placed in the little sling. Unlit of course.


----------



## Oldsarge

Mega-tweed


----------



## Peak and Pine

*Tweed details*.
H'tooth elbows and kissing buttons.
Like the former, don't understand the latter.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Put this up earlier, then took down. Text (mine) too long, too crazy. Now it's back, for the simplicity of the single accent, leather pocket flaps. Not suede, but polished leather as shined and good lookin' as a pair of mahogany wholecuts.

Good jacket, good shoulders, high buttons. Do not think, here, all the buttons done-up are rube-like. I know where I got this pic and they're not rubes.


----------



## Peak and Pine

The jacket looks canvas-y, but the vest gets it into this thread. Guessing the bottom is dark jeans. Think this is an acceptable look, ages 30 to dead. (The neck wrinkle, why it's smiling at us.)


----------



## Peak and Pine

This illuminates what was discussed here recently. When the wind blows, this guy (below) is double ready. A throat latch does its job, with an extra button (screen right) to secure the folded-up latch tight and out of sight when not in use. Then below that, the lapel button hole becomes a working one when closed and buttoned.

Shame that the latching buttons when not in use make such a deep depression into the rough suede shoulder. From where comes the pressure that makes them do this? A guess, trunk storage with this on the bottom.


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## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> Mega-tweed
> 
> View attachment 41812


Outstanding pic overall and great coat. For our not movie buffs (Old Sarge, say), that's Paul Newman and wife Joanne Woodward.


----------



## Fading Fast

Might be a repeat (looks somewhat familiar).


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> For our not movie buffs (Old Sarge, say), that's Paul Newman and wife Joanne Woodward.


It says his name in large script on the folder he's carrying. And then there's the profile.

Interesting he's wearing a bracelet. This was the 50s. Paris. Figures maybe.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Similar to #3226, this one features a denim jacket and tweed vest with double undones.
Chambray shirt, visible crew. The waist point is a thin line between casual and sloppy. I'll choose the first. What's sticking through the button hole looks an awful lot like the same cloth as the vest. But couldn't be.


----------



## lightbeard

Peak and Pine said:


> The jacket looks canvas-y, but the vest gets it into this thread. Guessing the bottom is dark jeans. Think this is an acceptable look, ages 30 to dead. (The neck wrinkle, why it's smiling at us.)


Great look. I'm planning to acquire a tasteful denim/chambray shirt before the summer. The more I look at casual odd jacket looks, the more I'm realizing a denim shirt is a versatile option with character.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Mega-tweed
> 
> View attachment 41812


A great coat! (As differentiated from a greatcoat! )



Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 41824
> 
> Might be a repeat (looks somewhat familiar).


Very nice!


----------



## Flanderian

Has issues, but essentially quite stylish -


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> A great coat! (As differentiated from a greatcoat! )
> 
> Very nice!


Thank you.

Love that shot of Newman and Woodward. Newman was one of Hollywood's really good dressers in the '50s and '60s, in a, for the time, youthful way.


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Has issues, but essentially quite stylish -
> 
> View attachment 41831


Suit? Yes. Tie? Oh boy! Shirt? Go change, young man.


----------



## ItalianStyle

Flanderian said:


> Has issues, but essentially quite stylish -
> 
> View attachment 41831


Is that a composition that is meant to test interference patterns on your TV?


----------



## Peak and Pine

You may want to look away. Below, a disagreeable example of the over-use of leather accents. I stick it here as an excuse to bring back an example from yesterday that I'm currently milking, a tweed jacket using leather accents in a limited, but bold way. But the first one, blaaagh.








.









As a side note, it's interesting, even refreshing to see the differences in tweed taste of the posters here. The recent one a couple above with the lit candle and the grease slicked hair looking like a 70s Sears ad, I don't get that at all.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oooo-weeeeee, do I like this one. Maybe roll the collar down though. Note the Harris Tweed label on the sleeve..


----------



## Flanderian

Note essential NYC sartorial accessory! -


----------



## Peak and Pine

^^
Jokey shots in The Time of Cholera, I dunno..

Back to the tweeds. This looks pretty good on a young'n. Deep chambray and a cotton cable under. Not sure what kind of collar that is, sort of an Ulster, but not really. Nice length, car coat?


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Suit? Yes. Tie? Oh boy! Shirt? Go change, young man.





ItalianStyle said:


> Is that a composition that is meant to test interference patterns on your TV?


Recent Polo composition. The only element I find truly objectionable is that shoulder top gorge!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 41885


I love the jacket, the tie, the shirt, but the pocket square with that rig...not so much!


----------



## xcubbies

Peak and Pine said:


> Similar to #3226, this one features a denim jacket and tweed vest with double undones.
> Chambray shirt, visible crew. The waist point is a thin line between casual and sloppy. I'll choose the first. What's sticking through the button hole looks an awful lot like the same cloth as the vest. But couldn't be.


All dressed up and nowhere to go.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> I love the jacket, the tie, the shirt, but the pocket square with that rig...not so much!


See all prior comments on pocket squares*

* Those comments are not in favor of them


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 41885


Nice tweed!

But sun dial on wrist and love beads!? 


Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 41890
> 
> 
> View attachment 41891


Beautiful tie!


----------



## Flanderian

Coats like they aughta be! irate:


----------



## Flanderian

Nice tweed!

(Though I'd probably elect not to stick my wife's unmentionables in the breast pocket! :icon_saint7kg


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Coats like they aughta be! irate:
> 
> View attachment 41912


Holy smokes.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## ItalianStyle

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 41925


3(!) unbuttoned buttons... where does it end...! :amazing:


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 41925


That is a darn handsome suit.


----------



## Fading Fast

Robert Young (of "Father Knows Best" and "Marcus Welby M.D." fame) in 1947's film noir "Crossfire."

I couldn't find that one perfect pic, but these together show what an incredible suit it is:


----------



## eagle2250

^^
Versatile...timeless...bullet proof! That suit is indeed quite the perfect example of Tweed, well used.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> Versatile...timeless...bullet proof! That suit is indeed quite the perfect example of Tweed, well used.


Agreed, I love the material and the three piece, but the "big" shoulders and, in general, large cut of the jacket date it. That material in a more classic sack suit would almost be a must buy for me if I had any use for a suit anymore (that exceeded the need of the nearly ten unused suits hanging in my closet now).


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 41925


Beautiful tweed, now someone needs to instruct the young man how to wear it.



Fading Fast said:


> Robert Young (of "Father Knows Best" and "Marcus Welby M.D." fame) in 1947's film noir "Crossfire."
> 
> I couldn't find that one perfect pic, but these together show what an incredible suit it is:
> View attachment 41927
> View attachment 41929
> View attachment 41928


A mighty tweed! 👍👍


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## 215339

StephenRG said:


> I had a client once who favoured grey suits, pale lilac shirts and light purple-and-grey ties. He had grey hair and a sallow complexion.
> 
> It was terrible.


Oh I can see it now, sounds wretched


----------



## Fading Fast

Lose the PS and all is good









Bonus pic presented without comment:


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Lose the PS and all is good
> View attachment 41959
> 
> 
> Bonus pic presented without comment:
> View attachment 41960


Realizing that this is the "Tweed Season" thread, but that magnificent sweater is the alpha garment in this shot! I just gotta find me some cold weather. :amazing:


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Realizing that this is the "Tweed Season" thread, but that magnificent sweater is the alpha garment in this shot! I just gotta find me some cold weather. :amazing:


Agreed, it's the star of that outfit.


----------



## Oldsarge

Donegal herringbone?


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## David J. Cooper

Tweed season has been extended here in the hills outside of Vancouver. A dusting of snow this morning and cold temperatures to continue along with rain.


----------



## Oldsarge

The same occurred in the mountains of Eastern Oregon, and it wasn't a 'dusting'!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 42011


Great coat! Fine actor.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

A few issues (Gorge height, skin-tight pants, etc.) but in the proper direction - nice colors and textures.


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Great coat! Fine actor.


With that mug, he could be Gilligan's/Bob Denver's older, more sophisticated brother....yes, no?


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> With that mug, he could be Gilligan's/Bob Denver's older, more sophisticated brother....yes, no?


I would tend to agree, but evidently beauty must be in the eye of the beholder, at least among the ladies. I can recall few admiring Gilligan whereas, by all accounts, Belmondo was a busy feller. :devil:


----------



## Color 8

Flanderian said:


> I would tend to agree, but evidently beauty must be in the eye of the beholder, at least among the ladies. I can recall few admiring Gilligan whereas, by all accounts, Belmondo was a busy feller. :devil:


 Similarly, in reference to a guy from the same era, I've heard people say "What's the big deal about Steve McQueen ?"

On a forum where the concept of "style" is regularly debated, I assert that all of the same concepts apply to "cool" - especially the idea that it's hard to define, but you know it when you see it.


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Did someone mention Steve McQueen in the Tweed thread:


----------



## FiscalDean

Have to love the trifecta of herringbone tweeds. I do have the standard black and white tweed and the brown tweed but haven't gotten my hands on the blue tweed. It seems they are somewhat rare.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Did someone mention Steve McQueen in the Tweed thread:
> View attachment 42049
> 
> 
> View attachment 42051
> View attachment 42052


Indeed, Steve McQueen had it all....a closet full of Tweeds, a souped up Mustang and Ali MacGraw...who among us would not be happy with all of that?


----------



## EclecticSr.

FiscalDean said:


> Have to love the trifecta of herringbone tweeds. I do have the standard black and white tweed and the brown tweed but haven't gotten my hands on the blue tweed. It seems they are somewhat rare.


Nowhere near as rare as unicorns. Shop U.K.........Stewart Christie, Walker Slater and many others. 
I have pieces from both and the quality is there.

Unless you prefer brick and mortar where you can try on.


----------



## Fading Fast

FiscalDean said:


> Have to love the trifecta of herringbone tweeds. I do have the standard black and white tweed and the brown tweed but haven't gotten my hands on the blue tweed. It seems they are somewhat rare.


As a kid a year or two out of college in the '80s who had just "discovered" Brooks Brothers (I know, but I didn't grow up in a BB world) and who was trying to build a work and non-work "adult" wardrobe, I bought my first herringbone sport coat at BB's January sale. It was a blue-grey one as it was the only color left in 40L. I knew so little - not what a sack is (it was), not what herringbone is (that taught me), not how iconic or versatile a herringbone sport coat is (I learned that heuristically with this sport coat) and not that it was just a touch off from the iconic true-grey herringbone sport coat (I'd acquire that one, plus-minus, four years later when I could afford a second sport coat and, by then, knew it was a classic) - but I loved that blue-ish sport coat possibly as much as any single item of clothing I've ever owned.

It sang to me - it felt right - as noted, I learned that it could do anything; that it could dress up or down, handle bad weather, get crumpled a bit and not wrinkle and it fit wonderfully. It set off a three-decade-plus-long love affair with herringbone sport coats that now includes, yes, a blue one, but also, light, medium and dark grey ones, plus an oatmeal one, but oddly, not a true Steve McQueen brown one. I love McQueen's in "Bullitt," but have never been much of a brown-clothes guy myself. If men were still dressing regularly with sport coats, I think I'd go on the hunt for one this fall, but as it is, I don't get enough opportunities to wear all the herringbone sport coats that I own.


----------



## FiscalDean

I recall Orvis had a blue herringbone years ago. I regret not grabbing it when I had the chance.


----------



## Fading Fast

FiscalDean said:


> I recall Orvis had a blue herringbone years ago. I regret not grabbing it when I had the chance.


My current blue one is from J.Crew several years back. Not as nice as that old BB one, but a good one and unlined, which I like as I can wear it inside with a sweater on underneath even if the room isn't that cold. I still have that "original" true-grey BB one (it's about thirty years old now), but the blue one was, from memory, given to a friend's kid along the way.


----------



## Color 8

FiscalDean said:


> Have to love the trifecta of herringbone tweeds. I do have the standard black and white tweed and the brown tweed but haven't gotten my hands on the blue tweed. It seems they are somewhat rare.


I jumped on a navy Harris Tweed 3/2 jacket from Brooks on clearance after the holidays this year. I'll post a pic if I can figure out how to do it.


----------



## FiscalDean

Color 8 said:


> I jumped on a navy Harris Tweed 3/2 jacket from Brooks on clearance after the holidays this year. I'll post a pic if I can figure out how to do it.


How is the length of the coat?


----------



## Color 8

FiscalDean said:


> How is the length of the coat?


I wear Regular length, and it's fine on me. I'll measure it later.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

I have one just like that!


----------



## Color 8

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 42064
> 
> 
> View attachment 42065


Outstanding.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 42106


Tweeds and corduroy, like PB&J! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

G. The Bruce is -


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Tweeds and corduroy, like PB&J! 👍


Or avocado on a BLT, essential.


----------



## StephenRG

Oldsarge said:


> Or avocado on a BLT, essential.


But no tomato (unless sun-dried)


----------



## Color 8

Perfect. I would do variations of this every day in autumn and winter.


----------



## Color 8

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 42106


Perfect. I would do variations of this every day in autumn and winter.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 42142


Ahh . . . . ! :loveyou:


----------



## Flanderian

Beautiful jacket; cloth, cut and fit! :beer:


----------



## Peak and Pine

*Three Tweedy Joe's*

Joe college. Common. Meh.










Joe Outa College. Uncommon. Whoa.








.

Joe Stalin. Commie. Boooo.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Re the previous, would have kept up the recent trend of posting B&Ws of dead celebrities in outa date tweeds, but I lost all my pics in the fire, awright so I set the fire, but one more Jimmy Stewart, et al and I was going to ask a stranger to please stand closer than 6 feet.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Probably about as big as you'd ever want a window pane pattern to be, by half, still. The move this guy is making, only do if asked,_ Who made your coat?_ Don't flash unasked. I have to tell you that?


----------



## Peak and Pine

A change. An actual living celebrity. And a favorite of mine. But he needs to be aged up some. Add maybe 35 years...










...and shove him in a _snow storm_ tweed and forgive his posture and expression since it's a stop-action still from a recent film and presto, a combo of olive, gray and burgundy that who would have thought swell until seeing this pic. Or the movie. Not me. Me now though. I saw the film.


----------



## ran23

Sadly my Tweed jacket is a 38 and I'm more of a 39 now, why at 66 yrs?


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 42185


He's wearing a hat and has a pocket watch! How much better could it get?


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian

It doesn't get much better than this, W W Chan -


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ That's some super-handsome material in a super-handsome suit.


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Meant to note when I posted it, love the tattersall tab (or perhaps pin, hard to see that detail) collar.


----------



## Color 8

FiscalDean said:


> How is the length of the coat?


The navy blue Harris Tweed jacket I bought from Brooks after the holidays is about 30.5" bottom of collar to hem, measured laying flat.


----------



## Fading Fast

Color 8 said:


> The navy blue Harris Tweed jacket I bought from Brooks after the holidays is about 30.5" bottom of collar to hem, measured laying flat.
> View attachment 42223


Beautiful blue herringbone - wear and enjoy it in good health.

From memory, can't get much closer to that first blue herringbone sport coat I wrote about a few pages back.

What size (i.e., 40L, etc.) is the sport coat you have that measured 30.5" in length?


----------



## Color 8

Fading Fast said:


> Beautiful blue herringbone - wear and enjoy it in good health.
> 
> From memory, can't get much closer to that first blue herringbone sport coat I wrote about a few pages back.
> 
> What size (i.e., 40L, etc.) is the sport coat you have that measured 30.5" in length?


Thank you ! You as well !
It's a 48 Regular.


----------



## Fading Fast

Color 8 said:


> Thank you ! You as well !
> It's a 48 Regular.


Thank you. I'm not familiar with what is the "traditional" length of size 48R, but that, maybe, sounds a bit short as my size, 40L, traditionally was a 31"-32" in length and, now, in our new "short" era, they run between 29" - 31" at most stores.

It's amazing how much of a difference one inch in length can make to a garment. I can wear 30.5" but no shorter; whereas anything over 32" definitely looks too long (based on traditional fits). 31"-31.5" is ideal for this 40L guy.


----------



## Color 8

Fading Fast said:


> Thank you. I'm not familiar with what is the "traditional" length of size 48R, but that, maybe, sounds a bit short as my size, 40L, traditionally was a 31"-32" in length and, now, in our new "short" era, they run between 29" - 31" at most stores.
> 
> It's amazing how much of a difference one inch in length can make to a garment. I can wear 30.5" but no shorter; whereas anything over 32" definitely looks too long (based on traditional fits). 31"-31.5" is ideal for this 40L guy.


I believe that Brooks states their "Long" sizing is 1" longer than their Regular, but I'm sure a 40 is a whole different proposition than a 48 regardless of that.


----------



## FiscalDean

Color 8 said:


> The navy blue Harris Tweed jacket I bought from Brooks after the holidays is about 30.5" bottom of collar to hem, measured laying flat.
> View attachment 42223


That one darn good looking herringbone.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ That's some super-handsome material in a super-handsome suit.
> 
> View attachment 42218





Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Meant to note when I posted it, love the tattersall tab (or perhaps pin, hard to see that detail) collar.


👍 👍 👍 :happy:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Meant to note when I posted it, love the tattersall tab (or perhaps pin, hard to see that detail) collar.


Wanted to find an articulate definition of _tattersall_ to post here since the shirt you like is not tattersall. But apparently there are none..

So I'll give it a go. The pattern consists of vertical and horozontal lines of one color forming square blocks overlaid with the same of a second color in a maner so that the corner intersections of each block of one color falls precisely in the center of the block of the other color.

The third draft that, to see if it could fit into one sentence and make sense. It may not still.


----------



## EclecticSr.

I believe first introduced at Tattersall's horse market in 1891 London, no doubt aptly named after one Mr. Tattersall. Horse blankets. One would have to find archived samples of same ( no doubt exist ) to establish their pattern (s) and colors. Have a modest collection from Cording's and a few others, I'm not about to dispute their heritage., I just like them.


----------



## Oldsarge

As do I.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Peak and Pine

Very nice, Sarge. Like it all. Including the square which, since squares are not my pot o'tea, would like to think is really a face mask stuck in there.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Sarge believes this sort of look 'cuts you in half'. But apparently if the vest were absent, you wouldn't be cut in half. Hmmmmm.


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> Sarge believes this sort of look 'cuts you in half'. But apparently if the vest were absent, you wouldn't be cut in half. Hmmmmm.


And he either needs to grow a real beard or shave. This half-way stubble is unseemly.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Caught a clip from "All About Eve" yesterday where Gary Merrill was wearing this wonderfully heavy looking sport coat. I search a lot and these are the best pics I could find and they simply don't do it justice.


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Once again, I left out the best part. While the jacket "reads" basic two-color herringbone tweed, there is some small speckling of other colors in it. Even though it's a B&W movie, years ago, I saw a color clip or pic form the movie that included the jacket and it has - like Donegal Tweed, which it could be - a modest amount of small dots of various different colors spread throughout. I've seen that in herringbone patterns before - it was never (in my time) popular, but you did see it. I haven't seen that type of pattern/material in a store in, guessing, two or so decades.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> Caught a clip from "All About Eve" yesterday where Gary Merrill was wearing this wonderfully heavy looking sport coat. I search a lot and these are the best pics I could find and they simply don't do it justice.


.

Here's a pic I have of the terrible twosome enjoying a smoking moment together. This pic taken at their Maine home, not far from my own, my grow-up house in Cape Elizabeth. Forgive the dirty thumbnail, I be outdoors workin' rough since 6:30 a.m. Check out GM's duds, not tweed, but still.










Edit:
Curious, Googled to see if this pic was on the net. It is, in a couple spots. Mislabled I believe as either at the Savoy or on the set of Eve. I think this was taken just prior to a live hook-up with Edward R. Murrow for his show Perso_n to Person_ in the mid 50s, a CBS show requiring a coordination with the local CBS affiliate, of which my father was GM.


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ I don't know about Merrill, but Davis smoked several hundred cigarettes an hour her entire life which, my guess, is why she aged hard and fast. But heck, like Keith Richards, she just kept ticking for a long time. 

Merrill, seemed to like bowties and, he was right, they work well on him.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Caught a clip from "All About Eve" yesterday where Gary Merrill was wearing this wonderfully heavy looking sport coat. I search a lot and these are the best pics I could find and they simply don't do it justice.
> View attachment 42254
> View attachment 42256
> 
> View attachment 42252


Great clothes and photos! :loveyou:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Once again, I left out the best part. While the jacket "reads" basic two-color herringbone tweed, there is some small speckling of other colors in it. Even though it's a B&W movie, years ago, I saw a color clip or pic form the movie that included the jacket and it has - like Donegal Tweed, which it could be - a modest amount of small dots of various different colors spread throughout. I've seen that in herringbone patterns before - it was never (in my time) popular, but you did see it. I haven't seen that type of pattern/material in a store in, guessing, two or so decades.


What you're describing is what caused me to fall in love with tweed in the first place.

I found a RTW overcoat coat like that, and avoided buying it for months, until I even started getting dreams about it. I ended up buying it and I still love it.


----------



## Peak and Pine

delicious_scent said:


> I found a RTW overcoat coat like that, and avoided buying it for months, until I even started getting dreams about it.


There are on-line support groups for that.
Is that the best pic you have of the coat? Why o why are there so many partial shots in this thread? Anyway your coat, nice, what I can see of it. I won't be dreaming about it tho because I don't do partial dreams.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Dream a Little Dream of Me...


----------



## 215339

Peak and Pine said:


> There are on-line support groups for that.
> Is that the best pic you have of the coat? Why o why are there so many partial shots in this thread? Anyway your coat, nice, what I can see of it. I won't be dreaming about it tho because I don't do partial dreams.


Fortunately, retail therapy did work that time. Partial shot to emphasize the lovely textures.

I posted a full shot a year ago, so going to recycle that one. It's only above-knee length, but good enough for me.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^
Gorgeous. Hands down. Just a seam at the cuff, or gauntlets? The pockets, double (a pocket behind the flap), or just looks that way? Ever consider a larger, lighter button, say _butterscotch_?


----------



## 215339

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> Gorgeous. Hands down. Just a seam at the cuff, or gauntlets? The pockets, double (a pocket behind the flap), or just looks that way? Ever consider a larger, lighter button, say _butterscotch_?


Thanks.

Just a seam, supposedly for easy alteration if need be.

Single pockets, only the flap ones are functional. Not particularly deep, minor gripe about the coat.

When I first got it, I was wondering why both pockets didn't work. I had a hell of a time ripping open the stitching on the top of the patch.

Turns out they made only one pocket "functional" with lining to preserve the silhouette and prevent pocket bagging, defeats the purpose of that type of pocket IMO.


----------



## Peak and Pine

I have a very tenuous relationship with the bunch below. It's a stretch, but I'll try it: a first love, whom I dated for two years at 17 to 19, her mother's room mate at Vassar was the little girl below. Posted here for the tweed norfolk her dad is wearing. Blow 'er up. This would be roughly 1923.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^
Shouldn't have urged you to blow that up. I just did. Ouch. He appears to be missing his left hand (!). I always knew Zelda was crazy, but still.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 42277


Wonderful jacket! :loveyou:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Great combination (the perfect tie).


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

^

When you wear a lotta clothes all at once, like above, it borders on old-manish as old guys are always cold (I know about this), but okay though when each piece is highly patterned and colored, as above, it high-lights the _amount_ of clothes being worn, thus I believe that mannequin to be about 82. However, the clothing is nice.


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ I kinda felt like I did about the prior pic - take out one pattern and things would get much better (and, again, my choice would have been to go with a solid shirt). A shirt, sweater, tie, sport coat and chinos is, IMO, not too many layers (it is the limit though), but with all the colors and patterns in the outfit, it's (again, IMO) too busy. So to bring the noise down, I'd go with one less pattern and as, to my eye, the shirt is the thing that is calling out the loudest amidst all the other stuff - he'd be the thing to go. (And, as always, I'd nix the PS.)


----------



## Peak and Pine

There's tweed in here some place, I know the rules...


----------



## Peak and Pine

The pic below belongs in no existing thread, but I've an itch to post it somewhere, so I'll scratch it here.

When asked _What famous dead person would you most like to spend time with?, _I would first ask, _You mean if they were living, right? not like dead dead. _But I've never been asked. Should I be, I'll flash the pic below.










I imagine this to be Key West. Have been in that house twice. Crawling with cats, all descendants of the one here, or others that once populated that place.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ I kinda felt like I did about the prior pic - take out one pattern and things would get much better (and, again, my choice would have been to go with a solid shirt). A shirt, sweater, tie, sport coat and chinos is, IMO, not too many layers (it is the limit though), but with all the colors and patterns in the outfit, it's (again, IMO) too busy. So to bring the noise down, I'd go with one less pattern and as, to my eye, the shirt is the thing that is calling out the loudest amidst all the other stuff - he'd be the thing to go. (And, as always, I'd nix the PS.)


One of the few benefits of being decrepit is that the only patterns I can make out in the photo are the shirt and jacket, and with just those, it looks smashing!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 42320


Superbly understated.


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Superbly understated.


I think so too!

And I'm in love with that unusual beautiful, rich tweed. While understated, it's quite unlike most modern tweeds encountered; a heavier tweed in a mixed herringbone and barley corn weave with subdued stripes of forest and burnt orange. Gorgeous!


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Peak and Pine

Hemmingway, again. In the snow.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> Hemmingway, again. In the snow.


Is he with his Paris wife, Hadley Richardson? His collection of wives and ex-wives rivals that of my shoe/boot collection, but he sure could pen a great story line!


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 42349


Visually riveting, for sure!


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Is he with his Paris wife, Hadley Richardson? His collection of wives and ex-wives rivals that of my shoe/boot collection, but he sure could pen a great story line!


From my far-from-an-expert-on-Hemmingway knowledge, I always thought he would have been smart to have never left / strayed from the first wife Hadley (I believe that is her in the pic).


----------



## Peak and Pine

The Hemmingway shot could be a candid, but it is so beautifully composed, his tweeds so perfect, her clothes unlike anything I've ever seen from the period (20s), that it seems doubtful. (But Annie Liebowitz wasn't born yet.) And it's outside. And in the snow(!).


----------



## Peak and Pine

The below, drool-able. Essentially a shawl collar with a slit for a notch (okay, gorge), whadda shape. The button stance, not only high, but unusual. Sign me up.










*Important edit:* whoa, just realized it's a woman's. Damn. Reverse buttoning, blaaagh. Well, reverse it some more and make it a man's. Me want.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 42349


Very handsome!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

Tweed (pretty sure anyway) jacket, Fair Isle sweater and denim shirt - IMO, this looks really good.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Tweed (pretty sure anyway) jacket, Fair Isle sweater and denim shirt - IMO, this looks really good.
> View attachment 42374


My eyes seem to be becoming more accepting of the denim shirt in combination with a jacket and given that reality...nice rig! The Fair Isle sweater is superb and the Tweed jacket is not far behind it.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 42365





Fading Fast said:


> Tweed (pretty sure anyway) jacket, Fair Isle sweater and denim shirt - IMO, this looks really good.
> View attachment 42374


Very nice! 🤙



eagle2250 said:


> My eyes seem to be becoming more accepting of the denim shirt in combination with a jacket and given that reality...nice rig! The Fair Isle sweater is superb and the Tweed jacket is not far behind it.


I've been wearing denim shirts since I was young enough to do so! 

Love 'em! But usually confine their wear with sport jackets to corduroy and tweed. Was wearing one from the original, *real* Lands End from 20 years ago yesterday.

Hope I get another 20 out of it!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Color 8

eagle2250 said:


> My eyes seem to be becoming more accepting of the denim shirt in combination with a jacket and given that reality...nice rig! The Fair Isle sweater is superb and the Tweed jacket is not far behind it.


Agree on the jacket + denim shirt - I recently bought a medium blue chambray shirt for that very reason.

I find myself wearing jacket + tie less, and jacket + open OCBD proportionately more. The chambray shirt will plug right in at the OCBD end of the spectrum.


----------



## Oldsarge

It's a casual look I really like in cool weather . . . when I can get outside. Oh well, eventually.


----------



## Fading Fast

I file this as exhibit A in the "why I don't get pocket squares" discussion.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 42411
> 
> I file this as exhibit A in the "why I don't get pocket squares" discussion.


...although, that is a strikingly handsome Tweed and that crisp white shirt and solid navy tie are indeed the perfect accessories!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 42411
> 
> I file this as exhibit A in the "why I don't get pocket squares" discussion.


While the tweed is lovely, other than there being far better choices of PS, the fact the breast pocket appears to be placed perhaps 2" or 3" below the shoulder doesn't help its appearance either.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> ...although, that is a strikingly handsome Tweed and that crisp white shirt and solid navy tie are indeed the perfect accessories!


I agree, I love it - think it hit a perfect, as you said, crip note - sans the PS.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 42411
> 
> I file this as exhibit A in the "why I don't get pocket squares" discussion.


I like PS's but this one looks like a lady's hankie. No points whatsoever.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## EclecticSr.

And then there is Flanderian's follow up three examples, done tastefully and well coordinated. 
Give me a square anytime.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Another variation (unless a dupe, hard to remember) of a theme we see often in this thread:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Another variation (unless a dupe, hard to remember) of a theme we see often in this thread:
> View attachment 42454


*YOWZER!! 👍*


----------



## Flanderian

A winter white tweed -


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## 215339

__
http://instagr.am/p/B0htT8ZBVFB/


----------



## eagle2250

delicious_scent said:


> __
> http://instagr.am/p/B0htT8ZBVFB/


I love the back design on that jacket...handsome coat for sure!


----------



## Peak and Pine

I may sell the Volvo and get me one of these...


----------



## Peak and Pine

Or this...








.

...but I may have to throw in some cash (the Volvo's a '95.)


----------



## Peak and Pine

You will notice how the two outre h'bones above are displayed with all buttons done up. I like this look on these jackets. And I am the only one.


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> You will notice how the two outre h'bones above are displayed with all buttons done up. I like this look on these jackets. And I am the only one.


I think you're right, as far as the forum is concerned. But then, most of the rest of us don't have to survive Maine winters.:cold:


----------



## ItalianStyle

Peak and Pine said:


> You will notice how the two outre h'bones above are displayed with all buttons done up. I like this look on these jackets. And I am the only one.


I was watching 'Easter Parade' with one eye last night and noticed 2 things:

- Most jackets had all buttons done up
- Fred Astaire had really long arms...


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Are those J.Peterman jackets? the reason I ask is because they look like Peterman illustrations. In recent years, Peterman has also posted real pics on its site as those illustrations can be a bit idealized. Hence, if they are Peterman's, it's probably good to see if there's an IRL pic on-line also. If not Peterman, still see if, whomever it's from, they'll send you a real pic. All that said, the material on both look outstanding. 

To your question, as shown, yes the full buttoning looks good, but as you often point out, I'd need to see it on someone in a real pic not "floating" as an illustration to really say if I like it fully buttoned.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^
Good points. They are Peterman.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 42478





delicious_scent said:


> __
> http://instagr.am/p/B0htT8ZBVFB/


Handsome tweeds! :loveyou:


----------



## Flanderian

Real deal tweed jacket! 18oz?


----------



## Oldsarge

Overall, entirely too much Piti Uomo, but the jacket is first class.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

Not sure the kid realizes he's wearing a smoking* jacket, one of the nicer ones ever to overide a mess of crap underneath.








.

*As of March 23rd, clean for 5 years.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Assume the popularity of this previously posted pic overlooks the looow rise trousers and flesh grabbing thighs. Good colors tho. Jacket looks like camel hair. (I know, they don't have olive-y camels. They have dye tho.). Hey guy, that's not a three-roll-two, let's start using that top button.


----------



## Fading Fast

And, yes, I have no idea what is going on with that scarf thingy. Love the Tweed though.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

See post #3,125.


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> See post #3,125.


I make a sincere effort not to post pics already posted and, when I'm unsure, I'll even note that a pic might be a dupe. In this case, even going back and looking at the pic from before, I just don't remember it - mea culpa.

I see dupes posted in this thread from time to time - is it a thing that we should note the original post number?

I always assume everyone is just doing there best to put up Tweeds for us to see and have fun discussing. I don't get the reason for noting a dupe when I see it as one can ignore it or put up a fresh observation, but am I missing the value/point?

To be sure, there's no reason to intentionally repost pics (unless to highlight something relevant to the current conversation), but does the unintentional and occasional reposting of a pic need highlighting?


----------



## Peak and Pine

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> See post #3,125.





Fading Fast said:


> To be sure, there's no reason to intentionally repost pics (unless to highlight something relevant to the current conversation), but* does the unintentional and occasional reposting of a pic need highlighting?*


Yes. We have a delete function here. I thought you might want to use it since your pic had been posted by me four weeks ago along with commentary. The three-word post, copied above, alerting you to this seems undeserving of four paragraphs of umbrage.


----------



## Fading Fast

Peak and Pine said:


> Yes. We have a delete function here. I thought you might want to use it since your pic had been posted by me four weeks ago along with commentary. The three-word post, copied above, alerting you to this seems undeserving of four paragraphs of umbrage.


I am quite happy with the spirt, tone and length of my post as I am with my reputation as a positive contributor here who operates from a default position of good will and not one looking to give or take offense.

And to refocus this thread on its modest purpose, I offer this:


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> ... happy with the spirt, tone and length of my post as I am with my reputation as a positive contributor here who operates from a default position of good will and* not one looking to give or take offense.*
> 
> And to refocus this thread on its modest purpose, I offer this:
> View attachment 42529


But you did take offense, four paragraphs worth. Go back and read yourself. And there was nothing to be offended about. A simple reminder that your posted pic had already been done. As, incidentally, has the one posted at the end of your most recent post, quoted above..

Whatever, no desire to tangle further with this. Getting close to starting a different tweed thread, probably featuring mostly my own stuff. No oohs and aahs expected. Leave that for here. It will border on bohemian. You'll hate it. Peace.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 42517
> 
> And, yes, I have no idea what is going on with that scarf thingy. Love the Tweed though.


Agreed. And I like the style of the jacket. I think decades of military uniforms has given me a tendency to believe that jackets somehow need four pockets. I have no other explanation.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> Agreed. And I like the style of the jacket. I think decades of military uniforms has given me a tendency to believe that jackets somehow need four pockets. I have no other explanation.


I don't think I've ever owned a four pocket jacket, but I like the look. What really jumped out at me on this one is the beautifulness of the Tweed itself. It looks thick as heck and with a rich and nuanced color. Sure, it's "brown," but it looks as if there are several shades of brown woven in to make it interesting as you know it will reflect light in many different ways.


----------



## Flanderian

Take no prisoners tweed!  -


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> Take no prisoners tweed!  -
> 
> View attachment 42537


Any more vivid and you'd be passing out tips at Belmont...


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Any more vivid and you'd be passing out tips at Belmont...


I've always felt I should have pursued a more honorable profession!


----------



## Peak and Pine

Guy should stay clear of magnets lest he get pinned, but nice tweedy vest, no? And I likes the shirt. (And the bottom button buttoned, O the AAAC horror.)


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

Blow it up to check the cool pattern that goes unnoticed until you're closer than 6' which of course you shouldn't be..










Bonus pic. New Years Eve at my private club...










The orange sofa that Marge is sitting on is actially the bench seat from my '82 Chevy Silverado.


----------



## Fading Fast

We've been watching "World on Fire," the new PBS drama about WWII.

As with most period shows today, the period details are impressive, but when I went to find pics of some of the suits and coats, I found that most of the show's pics were focused on the war and not the clothes -  .

To be sure, I don't know if these are Tweed, but they look like it to me. The suit in the first pic is killer IMO.


----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> Blow it up to check the cool pattern that goes unnoticed until you're closer than 6' which of course you shouldn't be..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bonus pic. New Years Eve at my private club...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The orange sofa that Marge is sitting on is actially the bench seat from my '82 Chevy Silverado.


That 'big' orange sofa reminds me of BOB, the big orange counter top on our kitchen island. The wife loves it...the family loves it...most that visit our home take note of and praise BOB....and alas, I seem to be stuck with BOB! LOL.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> We've been watching "World on Fire," the new PBS drama about WWII.
> 
> As with most period shows today, the period details are impressive, but when I went to find pics of some of the suits and coats, I found that most of the show's pics were focused on the war and not the clothes -  .
> 
> To be sure, I don't know if these are Tweed, but they look like it to me. The suit in the first pic is killer IMO.
> View attachment 42545
> View attachment 42546


Nice, thanks! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Flanderian

When discretion is the lesser part of valor!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> When discretion is the lesser part of valor!
> 
> View attachment 42558


You've been channelling your inner race-track goer here and there lately.

It's interesting /amazing that the sport coat (and, as a subset, the louder sport coat) survived longer at the racetrack than at almost any other place I can think of.

In part, it's because, for some players, the sport coat served as his mobile office: The Racing Form in one side pocket (sticking way out), some tout sheets (peeking out) and stubby pencils in the other outside pocket, some notes (on scratch paper) in one inside pocket, a few cigars in the other inside pocket and some pens and a pair of reading glasses in the breast pocket (sometime slid into a plastic case, sometimes not) - quite an efficient garment.


----------



## 215339




----------



## Peak and Pine

delicious_scent said:


>


Pics aren't coming across. You don't use the Preview mode before posting, to see if your stuff's gonna work?


----------



## 215339

@Peak and Pine how about now?

and no not really. generally if I see the image come across I will post it.

now I realize that sometimes that it can appear to me, due to browser cache and cookies, but not to others.


----------



## Peak and Pine

No. Nada. But keep at it. Are you standing 6' from your computer? Don't. It's people you social distance from, not stuff.


----------



## 215339

Peak and Pine said:


> No. Nada. But keep at it. Are you standing 6' from your computer? Don't. It's people you social distance from, not stuff.


Hm, they seemed to show up and Sarge could see them in my other thread

https://askandyaboutclothes.com/com...cks-unabashedly-bold-cut.242740/#post-1947163


http://imgur.com/k3ga3W9




http://imgur.com/AJQjQNV


Do those links work for you?


----------



## Peak and Pine

_Hm, they seemed to show up and Sarge could see them in my other thread_

But Sarge also sees ghosts and stuff. Wait a minute, now they're here. Good boy, I knew you'd get it.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Yes, they're now in your orig and the Imgur (how do you pronounce that?). Why don't you post via Google Photos, like me and all the Chinese people?


----------



## Peak and Pine

Displaying the poster's partiality to green....










...but why do you stand in the snow without a coat, and I don't think that chicken-wire fence is going to keep the wolves out.


----------



## 215339

Peak and Pine said:


> Yes, they're now in your orig and the Imgur (how do you pronounce that?). Why don't you post via Google Photos, like me and all the Chinese people?


Never did like cloud storage after all those celebrity nudes leaked.


----------



## Flanderian

delicious_scent said:


>


Not my style (Too built up and structured) but looks like very nice work! Lovely tweed! :loveyou:


----------



## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


>


Love the material, but for me, I'm with Flanderian, too much structure.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Fading Fast

An older Clark Gable wearing a version of some of the sport coats we've posted in this thread recently.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Forward pleats, stellar tie and my-kinda vest. No jacket required.










Then there's this. Guy on the right. Peak's Pick o'the Week...


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> An older Clark Gable wearing a version of some of the sport coats we've posted in this thread recently.
> View attachment 42591


Clark certainly knew how to wear a sport jacket. Sometimes I envisage myself as Clark, but instead I get Wilford Brimley. -


----------



## Flanderian

For tartan fans! Unlined, unstructured Italian tweed -


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> For tartan fans! Unlined, unstructured Italian tweed -
> 
> View attachment 42604
> 
> 
> View attachment 42605


Would you have a source for that wonderful Blackwatch? Very handsome, for sure!


----------



## EclecticSr.

Flanderian said:


> Clark certainly knew how to wear a sport jacket. Sometimes I envisage myself as Clark, but instead I get Wilford Brimley. -
> 
> View attachment 42603


What Brimley lacks in matinee idol looks he certainly makes up for in acting talent. 
A guy could do worse.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> Would you have a source for that wonderful Blackwatch? Very handsome, for sure!


No, I'm sorry, I did not note it, and am annoyed with myself because of it. There were a couple of different images of the same photo, and I recall having to select the smaller ones due to file size limits. But the orange tag inside the jacket lists the mill from which the cloth came, and may also have a retailer, but I can't make it out on this copy.

Should I manage to stumble upon it again :fool: I will note and post it, and speed it forth to you.


----------



## Flanderian

Tweed? Check! Bush jacket style? Check! Neckerchief? Check!

All system are go, and cleared for blast off! :happy:


----------



## Peak and Pine

Note the lowered front yoke, together with the pockets and flaps providing a festival of pattern matching.

Oops, misspoke. The yoke isn't matched. Maybe to show it off.


----------



## Oldsarge

^^
that's just amazing. I 've never seen a Norfolk in a cloth like that. Damn, I have to think about this very hard.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> ^^
> that's just amazing. I 've never seen a Norfolk in a cloth like that. Damn, I have to think about this very hard.


Don't think it's a Norfolk . . . :icon_scratch:


----------



## Peak and Pine

Flanderian said:


> Don't think it's a Norfolk . . . :icon_scratch:


It's a Norfolk and meets all Norfolk criteria. It wasn't labeled because it seemed understood. Apparently not.


----------



## Fading Fast

Bonus (assuming) Tweed pic:


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 42632
> 
> 
> Bonus (assuming) Tweed pic:
> View attachment 42633


Rather fetching, methinks; Tweed, fine leather and a porcupine pelt to top it all off. That is dressing to the nines, my friends!


----------



## Peak and Pine

Incidental to the Norfolk jacket above, decided to check Wikipedia for its interpretation. Wrong on a major point. A defining characteristic of a full Norfolk, like the one I posted above, is vertical straps on each side, front and back, hooping at waist to form a belt loop. W'pedia refers to these as box pleats. Nay. A pleat is not a pleat unless it can open to allow for expansion. The straps on a Norfolk are not pleats. They are straps sewn tight to the jacket fore and aft. I have four and am converting another.


----------



## Peak and Pine

For Sarge, he likes the animal stuff. Make that bird stuff. Which are animals with wings.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> For Sarge, he likes the animal stuff. Make that bird stuff. Which are animals with wings.


And surviving dinosaurs.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 42632
> 
> 
> Bonus (assuming) Tweed pic:
> View attachment 42633


Love the top outfit, but think the bottom one might be a bit snug!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

This is what a tweedy three-roll-two looks like if you decide to actually button the top button...








.

...but it doesn't have to look as lousy as this one. Iron lapels flat out on both sides as if they weren't lapels at all, as if the jacket were to be a Nehru. See in the pic where the crease goes down to the middle button. Use iron to get rid of that. *Do not iron lapel in position to be worn.* Put jacket on in Nehru stance, button top button and flip lapels back. Ahhhh. Bonus: automatic creation of a thunderous lapel roll. I hate three-roll-twos.


----------



## Peak and Pine

When you believe your tweeds are your imaginary friends and they ask you if they can please have an orgy night...


----------



## Peak and Pine

I like the all green theme and think a shiny tie can go well with tweed. This is Orvis.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Similar, but with pattern. Again, from Orvis.


----------



## Peak and Pine

It's an Orvis streak. A green one.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Presented without commentary.


----------



## 215339

Button-mania!


----------



## Peak and Pine

Was going to start a thread called Mug Shot Tweeds, but since I could find only one, I'll drop it here. From the '20s...


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> Presented without commentary.
> View attachment 42686


Eccentric


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> Eccentric


I had no where to go with it either.

A somewhat bit more in our usual world ⇩


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Presented without commentary.
> View attachment 42686


Heavy duty! :beer:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I had no where to go with it either.
> 
> A somewhat bit more in our usual world ⇩
> 
> View attachment 42693


Very nice! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

HTJ, tweed like 'ya mean it!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> HTJ, tweed like 'ya mean it!
> 
> View attachment 42694


I believe we learned a few pages back that Clark Gable kept a similar one in his closet.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I believe we learned a few pages back that Clark Gable kept a similar one in his closet.


Yes, missed that similarity!


----------



## Flanderian

Dress for a cold, damp day -


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian

Yes, it *is* tweed! (I think . . . .:icon_scratch


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

No.
Of course not.
Ditch the purple garbage. Leave the coat. Another boring glen plaid. But the chartreuse w'pane makes it swell. Right?


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 42747


Exceptionally well done! My experience is that it can be hard to combine tweeds and not have the product less than the sum of its parts, but this is near perfect. 👍


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 42747


I gave this a Like, but had to bend a bit to do it. The vest is so close to the jacket fabric, yet the miss is apparent. Asparagus the jacket, pea soup the vest, not the best of color comos, food or fabric.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Exceptionally well done! My experience is that it can be hard to combine tweeds and not have the product less than the sum of its parts, but this is near perfect. 👍


A touch more than I would wear, but agreed, very impressed with the outcome.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Tweed? Maybe.
Fine outfit, either way.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 42770


If there is such a thing as restrained flamboyance, this is it.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

The shirt is too dark.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> The shirt is too dark.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Not totally convinced with this, but think I could be...


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 42794
> View attachment 42795


I do so love the design, but the hues presented for review do give me pause! A darker green heather would be nice.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 42794
> View attachment 42795


:loveyou::happy:


----------



## Flanderian

Undoubtedly a mixed metaphor, but arresting nonetheless.

Were I to attempt something like this, I'd need to play around with some lighter suede shoes to find some that more precisely suit the mood of the suit. Another interesting alternative would be traditionally styled brogues in dark blue suede.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Undoubtedly a mixed metaphor, but arresting nonetheless.
> 
> Were I to attempt something like this, I'd need to play around with some lighter suede shoes to find some that more precisely suit the mood of the suit. Another interesting alternative would be traditionally styled brogues in dark blue suede.
> 
> View attachment 42806
> 
> 
> View attachment 42807


The white buck thing is interesting in that, IMO, it's an example of game theory's "common knowledge game." To wit, if everyone knows that everyone knows that wearing white bucks with gray slacks is the right thing to do, as it was at the peak of the Ivy style, then we do it, but once the common knowledge breaks, as it did hard in the late '60s, then it's no longer acceptable.

I like the look, but get that today it is an "out there" style; whereas, in parts of the country, it was the norm in the '50s (common knowledge and all). So, to your point, yup, today that's a pretty bold look. I like your idea of finding the right color and shade of suede that would work as I like the idea of a suede buck with the rest of that outfit. My experience is that it is hard - not at all impossible - to nail the right color and tone of suede buck for that outfit. A few shades off looks awful; a few shades the other way and it's killer.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> The white buck thing is interesting in that, IMO, it's an example of game theory's "common knowledge game." To wit, if everyone knows that everyone knows that wearing white bucks with gray slacks is the right thing to do, as it was at the peak of the Ivy style, then we do it, but once the common knowledge breaks, as it did hard in the late '60s, then it's no longer acceptable.
> 
> I like the look, but get that today it is an "out there" style; whereas, in parts of the country, it was the norm in the '50s (common knowledge and all). So, to your point, yup, today that's a pretty bold look. I like your idea of finding the right color and shade of suede that would work as I like the idea of a suede buck with the rest of that outfit. My experience is that it is hard - not at all impossible - to nail the right color and tone of suede buck for that outfit. A few shades off looks awful; a few shades the other way and it's killer.


What disturbs me, (And I'm disturbed enough already! ) is that to me the shoes say "SUMMER!" and the tweed says "Fall!" Yet, I know if you were to investigate collegiate fashion of the '40's and early '50's you'd likely find young men wearing very similar combinations.

I don't know, maybe a shaggier hide, but a more formal make, and it'd bring the two closer together.


----------



## Flanderian

Just a nice herringbone jacket. No pyrotechnics here! But it floats my boat!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> What disturbs me, (And I'm disturbed enough already! ) is that to me the shoes say "SUMMER!" and the tweed says "Fall!" Yet, I know if you were to investigate collegiate fashion of the '40's and early '50's you'd likely find young men wearing very similar combinations.
> 
> I don't know, maybe a shaggier hide, but a more formal make, and it'd bring the two closer together.


I agree and that was what I was trying to convey with the common knowledge thing: to wit, if we all "agree" that a thing is right, then it becomes "right." Heck, so much of the stuff we laugh at now was just a common knowledge thing in the '70s. Sure polyester leisure suits look nuts to us today, but I'll point out that "missionary" (another game theory term) "The Six Million Dollar Man" wore them (and he was cool, handsome and married to Farah - that some strong missionary signaling), which helped make them common knowledge (everybody knows that everybody knows that leisure suits are cool).

I have no defense of white bucks with grey flannels in the fall and winter as they violate most accepted ways of looking at classically assembling an outfit / harmonizing textures and colors / being seasonally consistent, but darn it, I like the look. No, I don't wear it because I don't like standing out, but I'd love it if it became common clothing knowledge again (fat chance).


----------



## Peak and Pine

Too bad there's no full shot of the Harris below. Note there's a vest stuck in there. Maybe a whole suit, who knows, bit much if so though.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Just a nice herringbone jacket. No pyrotechnics here! But it floats my boat!
> 
> View attachment 42821


Agreed, a classic for a reason. That said, if going brown herringbone tweed, I like the when there is a "richer" more nuanced or fuller or something brown and herringbone weave as in Steve McQueen's "Bullitt" brown herringbone.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Agreed, a classic for a reason. That said, if going brown herringbone tweed, I like the when there is a "richer" more nuanced or fuller or something brown and herringbone weave as in Steve McQueen's "Bullitt" brown herringbone.
> View attachment 42822
> View attachment 42823


I have a dark brown herringbone Harris Tweed jacket. That is, dark brown except when in sunlight, at which point the individual gold, black, green and oatmeal colored yarn that compose it becomes readily identifiable.


----------



## Flanderian

Some really dark tweed, as is this ground, can be exceptionally rich given an accessory (PS) that pulls out the hidden colors -


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> I have a dark brown herringbone Harris Tweed jacket. That is, dark brown except when in sunlight, at which point the individual gold, black, green and oatmeal colored yarn that compose it becomes readily identifiable.


I love that. Hard to tell from the pics, but pretty sure that, in the movie, McQueen's jacket plays with the light like that as well.


----------



## Flanderian

Flanderian said:


> Undoubtedly a mixed metaphor, but arresting nonetheless.
> 
> Were I to attempt something like this, I'd need to play around with some lighter suede shoes to find some that more precisely suit the mood of the suit. Another interesting alternative would be traditionally styled brogues in dark blue suede.
> 
> View attachment 42806
> 
> 
> View attachment 42807


I don't know, perhaps one of these might be a candidate -










or -


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> I don't know, perhaps one of these might be a candidate -
> 
> View attachment 42829
> 
> 
> or -
> 
> View attachment 42830


Admit it, you posted the pic of the top one just to torture me. It's okay, we hurt those close to us sometimes - I get it.


----------



## Fading Fast

Might be a dupe - feels vaguely familiar. Love how, not just the colors, but also the tones harmonize.


----------



## Color 8

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 42842


A lot of posts in this thread are a riot of different patterns - these rich solid colors are much more my preference.


----------



## Fading Fast

Color 8 said:


> A lot of posts in this thread are a riot of different patterns - these rich solid colors are much more my preference.


Eighty to ninety percent of my wardrobe is solid or subtle pattern that looks solid until you get close. That said, I love what some people do with patterns (a good friend of mine has the skill to pull three or four off in the same outfit regularly), but for my own outfits, I take a much quieter approach.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Admit it, you posted the pic of the top one just to torture me. It's okay, we hurt those close to us sometimes - I get it.


I might term it *encourage* you, rather than torture! :icon_saint7kg:



Fading Fast said:


> Might be a dupe - feels vaguely familiar. Love how, not just the colors, but also the tones harmonize.
> View attachment 42842


Mighty fine tweed! :beer:


----------



## Flanderian

Color 8 said:


> A lot of posts in this thread are a riot of different patterns - these rich solid colors are much more my preference.


----------



## Oldsarge

I, too, admire those who can mix patterns skillfully but must do it from the sidelines. While I delight in color and its variety, mostly I choose one pattern and then work around it. Luciano Barbera is just beyond my comprehension.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> I, too, admire those who can mix patterns skillfully but must do it from the sidelines. While I delight in color and its variety, mostly I choose one pattern and then work around it. Luciano Barbera is just beyond my comprehension.


CIAO!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Handsome as heck suit.


----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> I, too, admire those who can mix patterns skillfully but must do it from the sidelines. While I delight in color and its variety, mostly I choose one pattern and then work around it. Luciano Barbera is just beyond my comprehension.


Perhaps it's the beard, but what there is of that photo appears to be the chin and body of Texas Congressman Dan Crebshaw, a present day old fashioned elected official who earned his chops before running for congress! Sartorially, he almost always wears solids and does seem to have a propensity for three piece suits. Probably wrong, but just a hunch?


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Handsome as heck suit.
> 
> View attachment 42873


Nice suit and I do so love the raglan shoulders on the overcoat! The gentleman has good taste.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Nice suit and I do so love the raglan shoulders on the overcoat! The gentleman has good taste.


Agreed on both. I'm a big fan on raglan sleeves on that type of overcoat. I have two really nice large-pattern casual-ish Tweed herringbone overcoats that I love, but the one big miss is that neither has raglan sleeves.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 42879


Somebody's been liking themselves a lighter-brown herringbone these past few days. You'll get no argument from me - the world needs more herringbone.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Somebody's been liking themselves a lighter-brown herringbone these past few days. You'll get no argument from me - the world needs more herringbone.


You betcha! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> You betcha! :icon_cheers:
> 
> View attachment 42896


Now you're pulling out the big guns - the large-scale herringbone overcoat.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Now you're pulling out the big guns - the large-scale herringbone overcoat.


That's an _*FF*_* Special*!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 42939


Perfect! Nuff said.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Perfect! Nuff said.


I'm not a particular fan of elbow patches, but I'd happily make an exception in this case.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 42954


Wonderful modern Trad outfit. Thinking the sport coat is probably linen, silk or cotton (or a combo), but spiritually aligned with our effort here.

Just a guess, but I bet you could cross post that in the "Ralph Lauren" thread.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 42939


Pretty [email protected] near perfect! :icon_cheers:

Lovely cloth and exactly those details I prefer in a more sporting jacket. A *properly made* bi-swing back is not only highly functional, resulting in total freedom of movement, whether you're swinging a gun or not, but it's also extremely handsome and flattering to pretty much everyone. The half belt offers a definite waist without the need of added waist suppression, and the suede patches are both functional and the perfect aesthetic embelishment.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 42958


I own too many herringbone tweed sport coats as it is and would purchase a "Steve McQueen" brown one next if I did go insane and buy more, but all that said, this one would be one or two down on the list as well.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I own too many herringbone tweed sport coats as it is and would purchase a "Steve McQueen" brown one next if I did go insane and buy more, but all that said, this one would be one or two down on the list as well.


Agree! Particularly handsome cloth! :loveyou:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Mr. B. Scott Robinson

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 42939


A donegal with action back with a belt and patch elbows in a 42R? Yes please!

Cheers,

BSR


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 42978


Nice shirt and tie too! 👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Nice shirt and tie too! 👍


All in one outfit is a bit much for my quieter personality, but I absolutely love what is done here - kudos to the skill and confidence of the person who put it together. Again, while I might not wear it all at once, I love every single item.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> All in one outfit is a bit much for my quieter personality, but I absolutely love what is done here - kudos to the skill and confidence of the person who put it together. Again, while I might not wear it all at once, I love every single item.


I don't mind complication, and admire the skill, but I'd likely need to edit an item or two.

Once composed a similar ensemble: Back in the days when there was a *real *Jos. A. Bank, and they were making decent things in Baltimore, their mail order service allowed for special order as well as the standard RTW inventory advertised. Essentially, if they had the cloth, they'd make whatever you wanted in any stock size and model.

I had been eyeing a traditional green/tan Donegal tweed that they sold as jackets, and S.O.'ed a suit of it and had them half line the trousers. This was around 1980, and such was fairly uncommon. A very nice and helpful gentleman from the factory called me to assure I knew what I was ordering, and when assured I did, said they'd get to work. When it arrived, it was typical of the line, upper middle quality on a budget made by real people. And I loved it.

Perhaps a year earlier I had acquired a Paul Stuart dress shirt with a striped body and solid collar. But it wasn't a white collar, it was a shade they referred to as "tea stained" which was a sort of ecru, and was also the ground color of striped body. The stripes were thin pencil stripes in wine, forest, mustard and perhaps a forth. This whole thing was a lot more discreet than it sounds, as the stripe colors tended to meld together being very small and closely spaced. And I also a had silk and wool paisley tie from Paul Stuart in wine, grey and buff that complimented it well, and both were perfect with the suit! Don't recall if I wore a PS, and while the suit was't really suitable for much business of the day, it was a lot of fun to wear when circumstances allowed.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> I don't mind complication, and admire the skill, but I'd likely need to edit an item or two.
> 
> Once composed a similar ensemble: Back in the days when there was a *real *Jos. A. Bank, and they were making decent things in Baltimore, their mail order service allowed for special order as well as the standard RTW inventory advertised. Essentially, if they had the cloth, they'd make whatever you wanted in any stock size and model.
> 
> I had been eyeing a traditional green/tan Donegal tweed that they sold as jackets, and S.O.'ed a suit of it and had them half line the trousers. This was around 1980, and such was fairly uncommon. A very nice and helpful gentleman from the factory called me to assure I knew what I was ordering, and when assured I did, said they'd get to work. When it arrived, it was typical of the line, upper middle quality on a budget made by real people. And I loved it.
> 
> Perhaps a year earlier I had acquired a Paul Stuart dress shirt with a striped body and solid collar. But it wasn't a white collar, it was a shade they referred to as "tea stained" which was a sort of ecru, and was also the ground color of striped body. The stripes were thin pencil stripes in wine, forest, mustard and perhaps a forth. This whole thing was a lot more discreet than it sounds, as the stripe colors tended to meld together being very small and closely spaced. And I also a had silk and wool paisley tie from Paul Stuart in wine, grey and buff that complimented it well, and both were perfect with the suit! Don't recall if I wore a PS, and while the suit was't really suitable for much business of the day, it was a lot of fun to wear when circumstances called for it.


Fun JAB story and neat trip through some of your sartorial past. As to "tea stained" all of my seersucker items (a suit and two sport coats) are "tea stained" as, otherwise, the bright white looks too ice-cream vendor to my eye, especially on my tall thin frame.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Deserves a bump, 'cause like Stacie's mom, this has got it going on.*
* Props to Fountains of Wayne.


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 42992


A bit somber for my taste. The coat and tie are top notch but the vest is far too dark, IMO.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> A bit somber for my taste. The coat and tie are top notch but the vest is far too dark, IMO.


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 42999
> 
> 
> View attachment 43000


Paitr that jacket and tie with a crisp white shirt and you have a winner there!


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> Paitr that jacket and tie with a crisp white shirt and you have a winner there!


What's 'a matter? Going too Mussolini for you!?


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> What's 'a matter? Going too Mussolini for you!?


But, but . . . he made the trains run on time!:devil:


----------



## ran23

but that dark vest is plaid, doesn't that count??


----------



## Flanderian

_*"I saw a man all dressed in green . . . . "








*_


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian, saw this beautiful Tweed and thought of you and your affinity for light-brown herringbone:


----------



## FiscalDean

Flanderian said:


> _*"I saw a man all dressed in green . . . . "
> 
> View attachment 43012
> *_


I was expecting something like this


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> _*"I saw a man all dressed in green . . . . "
> 
> View attachment 43012
> *_


If you'd described this jacket to me I would have expressed a lack of interest, but seeing it - very fine.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Flanderian, saw this beautiful Tweed and thought of you and your affinity for light-brown herringbone:
> View attachment 43014


Very nice! And, yes, I do have fondness for brown or tan herringbone. Don't you as well? Or I is that mainly the grey?



StephenRG said:


> If you'd described this jacket to me I would have expressed a lack of interest, but seeing it - very fine.


While I think this is on a form, something worn with the right things, in the right way and by the right man, can make all the difference.



Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 43024
> 
> 
> View attachment 43025


Classic! 👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Very nice! And, yes, I do have fondness from brown or tan herringbone. Don't you as well? Or I is that mainly the grey?...


Probably more a comment on my sad life than my sartorial preferences, but my passion is for grey herringbone. That said, I definitely own some brown herringbone and would like (in theory, as in practice, I do not need any more sport coats) a Steve McQueen from "Bullitt" brown herringbone sport coat. And I love the overcoat in the pic I posted this morning.

N.B., the sport coat you just posted above is beautiful.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> But, but . . . he made the trains run on time!:devil:


Likely mentioned this, but my tailor was a native of Calabria and was a boy during Mussolini's regime. He had a passionate fondness for the dictator, because among his failings he also out thugged organized crime which meant the 'Ndrangheta wouldn't be visiting as often to extract what little earnings shopkeepers managed.


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Likely mentioned this, but my tailor was a native of Calabria and was a boy during Mussolini's regime. He had a passionate fondness for the dictator, because among his failings he also out thugged organized crime which meant the 'Ndrangheta wouldn't be visiting as often to extract what little earnings shopkeepers managed.


Which probably explains why, to this day, that there is a strong strain in Italian politics that looks back with misty nostalgia to the Mussolini years and why his granddaughter is a Senator.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Which probably explains why, to this day, that there is a strong strain in Italian politics that looks back with misty nostalgia to the Mussolini years and why his granddaughter is a Senator.


I thought it was because she was attractive!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

DDL, the male Meryl Streep, from _There Will Be Blood_ (so good). All tweeded up.


----------



## Fading Fast

In 1938's "The Citadel" actor Robert Donat wears a very heavy tweed herringbone sport coat.






















Comments on the movie here:  #337


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> I thought it was because she was attractive!
> 
> View attachment 43037


LOL, it certainly appears that she got her Grandfather's nose! Hopefully that is the only physical characteristic she inherited.


----------



## Oldsarge

From what I hear, her politics resemble his.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> In 1938's "The Citadel" actor Robert Donat wears a very heavy tweed herringbone sport coat.
> View attachment 43053
> View attachment 43054
> View attachment 43055
> 
> Comments on the movie here:  #337


*SERIOUS* tweed! irate:

Great stuff, thanks!


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> LOL, it certainly appears that she got her Grandfather's nose! Hopefully that is the only physical characteristic she inherited.


Yup! Better head of hair! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Marvelous cloth and cut, sorely sub-optimal shirt and tie.  -


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Marvelous cloth and cut, sorely sub-optimal shirt and tie.  -
> 
> View attachment 43075


 Yup


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 43082


Marvelous coat and jacket! :loveyou:


----------



## Flanderian

*Oops!!! *

Wrong thread and season!

(On a chilly, gloomy day, just hadda! :icon_jokercolor


----------



## Oldsarge

But a fine shirt, all the same.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> But a fine shirt, all the same.


Tori Richard, silk blend (70% silk, 30% cotton.)

I find some of their prints sublime; wearable art, actually. And I'd include this shirt among them.

And they did this one in 2 colorways. This one more vibrant, and while both are beautiful, I prefer the subtlety of the former.


----------



## Flanderian

Trousers to wear with tweed!


----------



## Fading Fast

Love the material and the side pockets' design; not a fan of the PS (no surprise) and never liked the style of having the "tail" of the tie show (like the tie itself with the outfit though).


----------



## Peak and Pine

Snowflake tweed with stunning shoulder. Tremendous. Cream pants with forwards. Pure white shirt. Light gray button-up sweater-vest. I know, top button's undone. Could care less about that. Lose the square and I'm all in. Or even if the square's still there.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 43104
> 
> Love the material and the side pockets' design; not a fan of the PS (no surprise) and never liked the style of having the "tail" of the tie show (like the tie itself with the outfit though).


Simply outstanding! Lovely cloth and cut. :loveyou:


----------



## Flanderian

__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Just saw this picture of Kevin Love in the WSJ:








Possibly not Tweed, but a heck of a good looking coat.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Just saw this picture of Kevin Love in the WSJ:
> View attachment 43159
> 
> Possibly not Tweed, but a heck of a good looking coat.


Looks like tweed to me! 👍


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Looks like tweed to me! 👍


That coat said Flanderian (and Fading Fast) to me, but even more you.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ We debate it here from time to time, but I think the lapel on the vest (especially with the leather buttons) works really well in this case. It's a very vintage feel, which matches the vibe of the Tweed material itself.


----------



## Oldsarge

IMO, it needs an appropriate cap but that could just be the loveliest suit this month.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ We debate it here from time to time, but I think the lapel on the vest (especially with the leather buttons) works really well in this case. It's a very vintage feel, which matches the vibe of the Tweed material itself.


I like it, though if it became the norm I think it might grow tiresome. To me, it always imparts a more sporting nature to the ensemble, and as such you noted it particularly at home with this handsome tweed, and with leather buttons.

But it can also look good with more formal cloth, with which it imparts a sporting, or perhaps rakish, connotation. In the late 50's - early '60's it could even be found as added dash to extra fine quality TNSIL suits in worsted. Though it was uncommon. But I'm pretty sure Chipp may have offered it as an option.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> I like it, though if it became the norm I think it might grow tiresome. To me, it always imparts a more sporting nature to the ensemble, and as such you noted it particularly at home with this handsome tweed, and with leather buttons.
> 
> But it can also look good with more formal cloth, with which it imparts a sporting, or perhaps rakish, connotation. In the late 50's - early '60's it could even be found as added dash to extra fine quality TNSIL suits in worsted. Though it was uncommon. But I'm pretty sure Chipp may have offered it as an option.


In the '80s (in my early 20s), when I started to discover the world of suits and TNSIL, there were plenty of three-piece suits around - I owned a Cricketeer one. From memory, I don't recall a lapel on the vests of the worsted one (but have absolutely seen them on worsted ones in movies from the '50s and '60s), but do recall them on the heavy wool (as you note) more sporting ones. Not making any point other than to show what the basic-business-guy suit world looked like in NYC in the '80s.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Might be a dupe, love the bold herringbone. Not my favorite outfit, but was okay with it until I saw the sneakers. I get that's a "thing" today - just does't look harmonious to my eye.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Might be a dupe, love the bold herringbone. Not my favorite outfit, but was okay with it until I saw the sneakers. I get that's a "thing" today - just does't look harmonious to my eye.
> View attachment 43208


I agree with your assessment...that classic Tweed coat deserves to be shown with a better footwear option, regardless of present day fashion farts. "Please, don't misunderstand me!" I am normally a fan of Addias, having literally running through countless pair(s) over the years, but those mustard yellow abominations just have to go. LOL.


----------



## David J. Cooper

The only explanation can be that he slipped out of the Belgians and into the mustard Superstars to walk the dog.


----------



## Oldsarge

:cold:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Might be a dupe, love the bold herringbone. Not my favorite outfit, but was okay with it until I saw the sneakers. I get that's a "thing" today - just does't look harmonious to my eye.
> View attachment 43208


I may be mistaken, but does that tweed look particularly _hairy_, in both senses of the term? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 43245


A memorably handsome Tweed, for sure, but I think I would have opted for a solid white or ecru hued shirt! From the chin up it appears to be a shot of Mr. Harry Mountbatten -Windsor, presently of Los Angeles, CA. :icon_scratch:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 43245


A truly classic and magnificent tweed! :icon_hailthee:

While I appreciate how such an elaborate composition might trouble many, I think they've balanced the many factors just about perfectly. In discussions concerning harmonizing patterns, principles of scale are often cited as the only factor. But I find the issue is more complex than that, especially when glen plaid/check in included, as this pattern can often be a chameleon, functioning as either a large or small scale depending upon other patterns with which it appears.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 43266


Hmm . . . . looks familiar! :icon_scratch:


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Hmm . . . . looks familiar! :icon_scratch:


Probably is. I lose track after a while. This is probably a repeat, too, but it's so beautiful!


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Probably is. I lose track after a while. This is probably a repeat, too, but it's so beautiful!
> View attachment 43268


It is indeed a magnificent tweed! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

A classic brown herringbone for my friend Flanderian. I like the tie; I'd throw a pin on the collar; lose the pocket square and not sure about the color of the vest.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Okay, this is really good, both as stuff and as presentation (which seems to be lacking in a number of choices posted here). Green h'bone with a nice, slightly padded shoulder. Great shirt color for the combo and the otherwise dreaded square (only me and Fast I know) looks good here, color and texture, maybe push it down a bit. Superb lighting and camera angle.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> A classic brown herringbone for my friend Flanderian. I like the tie; I'd throw a pin on the collar; lose the pocket square and not sure about the color of the vest.
> View attachment 43303


Absolutely marvelous! :loveyou:

Great tweed, and splendid composition.

I very much like club collars, and the ecru (?) shade is perfect. The only thing which in my mind leaves it short of perfection is how the collar is designed. This looks like Brooks' club collar. Brooks dress shirts are made with a collar band cut straight across where buttoned, rather than curved. That along with a lot of tie space and a small knot makes the knot look too small for the collar to my eye. I used to have my shirtmaker make club type collars with no more than ¼" of tie space, and slightly longer points. All of his neckbands were curved at the buttoning point. This dispensed with always having a bar of shirt fabric above the knot, and the desire to keep cinching up the knot trying to eliminate it.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Absolutely marvelous! :loveyou:
> 
> Great tweed, and splendid composition.
> 
> I very much like club collars, and the ecru (?) shade is perfect. The only thing which in my mind leaves it short of perfection is how the collar is designed. This looks like Brooks' club collar. Brooks dress shirts are made with a collar band cut straight across where buttoned, rather than curved. That along with a lot of tie space and a small knot makes the knot look too small for the collar to my eye. I used to have my shirtmaker make club type collars with no more than ¼" of tie space, and slightly longer points. All of his neckbands were curved at the buttoning point. This dispensed with always having a bar of shirt fabric above the knot, and the desire to keep cinching up the knot trying to eliminate it.


⇧ What he said. Kidding aside, that's smart stuff that explains the engineering behind the collar and why it doesn't look good without a collar pin. My solution (since there was no shirtmaker in my employ  ) was a collar pin as I've owned several BB club collar shirts and only liked the way they looked after I used a pin.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ What he said. Kidding aside, that's smart stuff that explains the engineering behind the collar and why it doesn't look good without a collar pin. My solution (since there was no shirtmaker in my employ  ) was a collar pin as I've owned several BB club collar shirts and only liked the way they looked after I used a pin.


An elegant solution! 👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

...more about this, originally posted earlier today.










Neglected to note the simplicity and the colors and that I spelled _seems_ wrong. So...

Simplicity. Often what's shown here is as if the wearer had gone through a closet muttering _I haven't worn this in a while, or this, and whatabout this?,_ puting everything on at once forcing whoever posts it to disassemble with _I like this and this, but not that and that_, like with the guy shown yesterday with the giant h'bone coat and yellow sneaks.

The colors above at first glance may not be stand-outs. It's a no-knock-down first glance, leaving the second to offer the rewards. The colors are unusual. You don't often see that color green (seafoam?), much less in tweed. Odd shade of blue (-ish gray) in the shirt. The intensity (or lack of) becomes memorably photogenic. The jab of unaltered primary - the unpatterned red of the square - further wakes it up. I really like that outfit. Guess that's obvious. Can't see the pants. Money's on sand khakis. And if wintertime, chocolate pin wales.


----------



## Flanderian

Three piece keeper's tweed from Paul Stuart autumn 1980.


----------



## Oldsarge

I happily wear that every day the weather permitted!


----------



## Flanderian

Tweed & moleskin -


----------



## Matt S

Flanderian said:


> Tweed & moleskin -
> 
> View attachment 43330


Great combination, but those trousers don't look like moleskin.


----------



## Flanderian

Matt S said:


> Great combination, but those trousers don't look like moleskin.


Very possibly, I can't always trust my eyes.

What's your opinion, pincord?


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Matt S

Flanderian said:


> Very possibly, I can't always trust my eyes.
> 
> What's your opinion, pincord?


I see diagonal lines that suggest twill of some sort. I'm actually not sure of the exact kind of cloth. Possibly a heavy brushed cotton. They can be worn the same way one would wear moleskin, so the concept you mentioned is no different. I wish it were easier to find more alternatives to corduroy like these. But when I pay a lot for trousers I would rather have wool because it wears better. Then again, the comfort of heavy cotton trousers is like nothing else. Like wearing pyjamas all day!


----------



## Matt S

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 43337


Four patterns and none clash! And no clashing colours. Superb!


----------



## Fading Fast

Cross post from the "Trad in Movies" thread:

In the movie "Beyond a Reasonable Doubt" form 1956 (my comments on the movie here: #340 ), one of the plot twists depends on the main character buying a "generic" grey Tweed overcoat.

Try as I could, the first pic below is the best one I could find of that scene (or the coat). I'm sure a better pic is out there, but I couldn't find it.

As a consolation prize though, the second and third pics are of an incredibly beautiful herringbone overcoat from the movie that plays no part in the plot though.


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Three piece keeper's tweed from Paul Stuart autumn 1980.
> 
> View attachment 43324


The Black thorn stick works well with that rig...or perhaps with the setting?


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> Three piece keeper's tweed from Paul Stuart autumn 1980.
> 
> View attachment 43324


That fine suit looks as if it had never been worn before that photo was taken.


----------



## Oldsarge

Well, _someone_ has to break it in properly.


----------



## Flanderian

Matt S said:


> I see diagonal lines that suggest twill of some sort. I'm actually not sure of the exact kind of cloth. Possibly a heavy brushed cotton. They can be worn the same way one would wear moleskin, so the concept you mentioned is no different. I wish it were easier to find more alternatives to corduroy like these. But when I pay a lot for trousers I would rather have wool because it wears better. Then again, the comfort of heavy cotton trousers is like nothing else. Like wearing pyjamas all day!


You're very likely correct. I know from time to time over the years Paul Stuart has sold such trousers of heavier, brushed and often washed cotton tailored into very smart trousers.



Fading Fast said:


> Cross post from the "Trad in Movies" thread:
> 
> In the movie "Beyond a Reasonable Doubt" form 1956 (my comments on the movie here: #340 ), one of the plot twists depends on the main character buying a "generic" grey Tweed overcoat.
> 
> Try as I could, the first pic below is the best one I could find of that scene (or the coat). I'm sure a better pic is out there, but I couldn't find it.
> 
> As a consolation prize though, the second and third pics are of an incredibly beautiful herringbone overcoat from the movie that plays no part in the plot though.
> 
> View attachment 43345
> View attachment 43344
> View attachment 43346


Lovely coat on the mustachioed man! Would love one like it, but would never wear it. I find as the years go on I even wear heavier coats I already have infrequently.



eagle2250 said:


> The Black thorn stick works well with that rig...or perhaps with the setting?


Heck, I'm voting for both! Paul Stuart used to have Samuelsohn make up some very interesting RTW.



StephenRG said:


> That fine suit looks as if it had never been worn before that photo was taken.


But did he have to give it back when the photo shoot was over!? :icon_cheers:

About 10 years ago my wife and I attended the entire Westminster dog show at the Garden. If you've ever caught any snippets of the TV broadcasts you likely saw a very attractive young female (Usually blond.) dressed very formally doing the local station TV "color." And so it was that year. But what the viewing audience would never guess, since she was always shot from the front, was that dangling from a string down the back of her neck was the dress's price tag! :laughing:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> ...
> Lovely coat on the mustachioed man! Would love one like it, but would never wear it. I find as the years go on I even wear heavier coats I already have infrequently.
> ...


I get that as I have to make an effort to wear a meaningful part of my wardrobe as the clothes I love aren't the clothes people wear much anymore. Twenty and thirty years ago, wearing a suit to work, a wedding, a funeral or even a nice dinner out was normal; wearing a sport coat and dress slacks to a casual evening out, a trip to the dentist, a friend's kid's birthday party, heck, a plane trip was also reasonably common. In the winter, wearing a large, heavy overcoat was normal almost anywhere.

Now, most businesses are biz casual or all casual; most events (even some weddings now and, definitely, funerals) no longer are mainly suit events and as for sport coats to the events I noted - I'm almost always asked, "why'd you dress up." In the winter, most people wear (even to nice restaurants, weddings, etc.) either puffer coats or layers of stuff that start with a hoodie. I feel like a film noir character when I show up in my "old" style large heavy overcoat to, well, almost any event. I have a shorter one that hits just below my knees - more a car coat in my mind - that I wear more as it gets less "why so formal" comments.

I know many here don't care about all that and just wear what they want and I 100% support them; personally, I don't like standing out, which is partly why I chose my "American Trad" dressing style in the first place. I liked that it was "classic -" had stood the test of time and looked good in pretty much any situation without standing out. Now, I try to wear "updated" versions of the classics: jeans and sport coats / slim (not skinny) cuts / the aforementioned shorter coat, but it's all less fun.

The result is that I enjoy clothes a bit less today and buy a lot less as I can't find enough reasons to wear what I already own.


----------



## Matt S

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 43351


Perfect button stance. It's rare to see it this low.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I get that as I have to make an effort to wear a meaningful part of my wardrobe as the clothes I love aren't the clothes people wear much anymore. Twenty and thirty years ago, wearing a suit to work, a wedding, a funeral or even a nice dinner out was normal; wearing a sport coat and dress slacks to a casual evening out, a trip to the dentist, a friend's kid's birthday party, heck, a plane trip was also reasonably common. In the winter, wearing a large, heavy overcoat was normal almost anywhere.
> 
> Now, most businesses are biz casual or all casual; most events (even some weddings now and, definitely, funerals) no longer are mainly suit events and as for sport coats to the events I noted - I'm almost always asked, "why'd you dress up." In the winter, most people wear (even to nice restaurants, weddings, etc.) either puffer coats or layers of stuff that start with a hoodie. I feel like a film noir character when I show up in my "old" style large heavy overcoat to, well, almost any event. I have a shorter one that hits just below my knees - more a car coat in my mind - that I wear more as it gets less "why so formal" comments.
> 
> I know many here don't care about all that and just wear what they want and I 100% support them; personally, I don't like standing out, which is partly why I chose my "American Trad" dressing style in the first place. I liked that it was "classic -" had stood the test of time and looked good in pretty much any situation without standing out. Now, I try to wear "updated" versions of the classics: jeans and sport coats / slim (not skinny) cuts / the aforementioned shorter coat, but it's all less fun.
> 
> The result is that I enjoy clothes a bit less today and buy a lot less as I can't find enough reasons to wear what I already own.











Matt S said:


> Perfect button stance. It's rare to see it this low.


I think so too. The jacket is from B&Tailor, and the cut is adapted from Neapolitan tailoring by their master cutter Jungyul Park, who dresses marvelously. But while I have no definitive information on the subject, there have been suggestions that the tailoring firm may not have been as universally successful in achieving the same effect when cutting for some clients who are heavier and/or larger proportioned. Mr. Park is a slender and perfectly proportioned gentleman, as can be seen below.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


>


Darn you throwing Fred and Ginger at me - you know I'd be defenseless.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Darn you throwing Fred and Ginger at me - you know I'd be defenseless.













No tie!?


----------



## StephenRG

Cecil Day Lewis:


----------



## Color 8

Fading Fast said:


> I get that as I have to make an effort to wear a meaningful part of my wardrobe as the clothes I love aren't the clothes people wear much anymore. Twenty and thirty years ago, wearing a suit to work, a wedding, a funeral or even a nice dinner out was normal; wearing a sport coat and dress slacks to a casual evening out, a trip to the dentist, a friend's kid's birthday party, heck, a plane trip was also reasonably common. In the winter, wearing a large, heavy overcoat was normal almost anywhere.
> 
> Now, most businesses are biz casual or all casual; most events (even some weddings now and, definitely, funerals) no longer are mainly suit events and as for sport coats to the events I noted - I'm almost always asked, "why'd you dress up." In the winter, most people wear (even to nice restaurants, weddings, etc.) either puffer coats or layers of stuff that start with a hoodie. I feel like a film noir character when I show up in my "old" style large heavy overcoat to, well, almost any event. I have a shorter one that hits just below my knees - more a car coat in my mind - that I wear more as it gets less "why so formal" comments.
> 
> I know many here don't care about all that and just wear what they want and I 100% support them; personally, I don't like standing out, which is partly why I chose my "American Trad" dressing style in the first place. I liked that it was "classic -" had stood the test of time and looked good in pretty much any situation without standing out. Now, I try to wear "updated" versions of the classics: jeans and sport coats / slim (not skinny) cuts / the aforementioned shorter coat, but it's all less fun.
> 
> The result is that I enjoy clothes a bit less today and buy a lot less as I can't find enough reasons to wear what I already own.


Spot on.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Cecil Day Lewis:


A serious tweed for a serious man! 👍


----------



## Fading Fast

Yesterday, I caught five minutes of a 1937 movie "You Can't Buy Luck," with this ⇩ suit worn by actor Onslow Stevens (left) catching my attention.

If you enlarge the pic (the only one of the suit I could find), a lot more of the detail comes out. You can see it a bit here, but on screen, its cool nubby-ness and bold herringbone were impressive.

It's a get-out-of-my-way herringbone Tweed suit:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Yesterday, I caught five minutes of a 1937 movie "You Can't Buy Luck," with this ⇩ suit worn by actor Onslow Stevens (left) catching my attention.
> 
> If you enlarge the pic (the only one of the suit I could find), a lot more of the detail comes out. You can see it a bit here, but on screen, its cool nubby-ness and bold herringbone were impressive.
> 
> It's a get-out-of-my-way herringbone Tweed suit:
> View attachment 43380


Beautiful!

That tweed looks to be almost coat weight. That is, it would be if anyone could still find such a gorgeous tweed, or still wore heavier tweed coats! 😢

In the mid '80's, Paul Stuart had Samuelsohn make up some suits in coat weight flannels and tweeds, and they were movingly beautiful clothing! (Though you'd likely need to live in a Scottish castle in the middle of winter to wear one!)


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Beautiful!
> 
> That tweed looks to be almost coat weight. That is, it would be if anyone could still find such a gorgeous tweed, or still wore heavier tweed coats! 😢
> 
> In the mid '80's, Paul Stuart had Samuelsohn make up some suits in coat weight flannels and tweeds, and they were movingly beautiful clothing! (Though you'd likely need to live in a Scottish castle in the middle of winter to wear one!)


Having worked for decades on trading floors, where the temperature is always cold to keep the insane number of computers happy (also, why today, you see so many traders in fleece vests), I started buying heavy flannel and tweed suits to wear with sweater vests; it was the perfect happenstance of need and want coming together. I would have loved to have bought a suit like the one in the pic, but the closest I ever got was MTM at Ralph and, even there, the fabrics selection was never as bold as the suit from the movie.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Having worked for decades on trading floors, where the temperature is always cold to keep the insane number of computers happy (also, why today, you see so many traders in fleece vests), I started buying heavy flannel and tweed suits to wear with sweater vests; it was the perfect happenstance of need and want coming together. I would have loved to have bought a suit like the one in the pic, but the closest I ever got was MTM at Ralph and, even there, the fabrics selection was never as bold as the suit from the movie.


Very interesting. I had never considered that trading floors might be cold, rather thought of them hot, sweaty places. So much for ignorant assumptions!

I had once always thought the common habit at one time of newsman on TV wearing a sweater vest beneath their jacket mainly a form of display. But then in the late '70's I had occasion to do some videotape for my corporation which to my surprise had its own small TV studio. Long story, short, it was like sitting in a refrigerator.

Similarly, our ops site in the military was stuffed full of electronics and remained at a chill upper '50's winter and summer courtesy of several huge central air conditioning units. While our site was complete with over-spec'ed backup generators, they took a bit to kick in. And in the 30 seconds, or so, after the commercial power died, the entire site started heating up like an oven! 😓


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Very interesting. I had never considered that trading floors might be cold, rather thought of them hot, sweaty places. So much for ignorant assumptions!
> 
> I had once always thought the common habit at one time of newsman on TV wearing a sweater vest beneath their jacket mainly a form of display. But then in the late '70's I had occasion to do some videotape for my corporation which to my surprise had its own small TV studio. Long story, short, it was like sitting in a refrigerator.
> 
> Similarly, our ops site in the military was stuffed full of electronics and remained at a chill upper '50's winter and summer courtesy of several huge central air conditioning units. While our site was complete with overs-spec'ed backup generators, they took a bit to kick in. And in the 30 seconds, or so, after the commercial power died, the entire site started heating up like an oven! 😓


Once, a section of one of the trading floors I worked on lost air-conditioning and, lickety-split, building services rolled out several "portable" air-conditioners (very '60s "Lost In Space" looking units, each about the size of a large college-dorm refrigerator with a huge flexible exhaust tube that fit into something in the ceiling, above the now-removed ceiling tile) plugged them into huge three-prog electrical outlets that had been hidden under the elevated floor tiles and cold air started blasting out. Cleary, knowing what was at risk, the firm had a very effective air-conditioning back-up plan in place. In the half hour or so it took for all that to happen, that section of the floor started to boil.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Once, a section of one of the trading floors I worked on lost air-conditioning and, lickety-split, building services rolled out several "portable" air-conditioners (very '60s "Lost In Space" looking units, each about the size of a large college-dorm refrigerator with a huge flexible exhaust tube that fit into something in the ceiling, above the now-removed ceiling tile) plugged them into huge three-prog electrical outlets that had been hidden under the elevated floor tiles and cold air started blasting out. Cleary, knowing what was at risk, the firm had a very effective air-conditioning back-up plan in place. In the half hour or so it took for all that to happen, that section of the floor started to boil.


Why are scenes from some Woody Allen type film floating through my brain!?


----------



## Flanderian

Polo -










And Polo to go with -


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Why are scenes from some Woody Allen type film floating through my brain!?


And meant to note, that was in the '90s, but those units looked so '60s (but worked great).


----------



## Fading Fast

Might be a dupe, looks vaguely familiar, but it is a "double" Tweed - suite and overcoat.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Woofa

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 43390


really like this combo.👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Cross post from the "Ralph something" thread"








I so want to reach in and center the tie knot in the shirt's collar.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Cross post from the "Ralph something" thread"
> View attachment 43492
> 
> I so want to reach in and center the tie knot in the shirt's collar.


Lovely tweed cloth, but the rest, ahh . . . a little bit of Laura Ashley vibe. 

I.e., who wears shirt collars with one inch points?


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> ...
> I.e., who wears shirt collars with one inch points?


Many millennials.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Many millennials.


Sorry to learn that.


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Lovely tweed cloth, but the rest, ahh . . . a little bit of Laura Ashley vibe.
> 
> I.e., who wears shirt collars with one inch points?


.....and/or their Mama's crew neck sweater! Those are embroidered flowers around the neck of that knitwear...yes, no? :crazy:


----------



## Color 8

eagle2250 said:


> .....and/or their Mama's crew neck sweater! Those are embroidered flowers around the neck of that knitwear...yes, no? :crazy:


The line between menswear and women's wear has been getting a little blurry . . .


----------



## Flanderian

Color 8 said:


> The line between menswear and women's wear has been getting a little blurry . . .
> 
> View attachment 43520


Why, Sir, those are Nantucket red's! irate:

The socklessness is best confined to those 19 or less, but he may be close enough.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Color 8 said:


> The line between menswear and women's wear has been getting a little blurry . . .
> 
> View attachment 43520


Heck, the line between men and women has been blurred for quite some time now.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

I have no idea why there appears to be a pocket square in the vest's pocket. Nice vest though.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 43537
> 
> I have no idea why there appears to be a pocket square in the vest's pocket. Nice vest though.


Beautiful vest! Imagine how handsome it would look under a corduroy suit or jacket. :beer:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 43537
> 
> I have no idea why there appears to be a pocket square in the vest's pocket. Nice vest though.


It's a fashion statement but you're right. It _is _a nice vest.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 43569


I think I'd prefer the girl without the suit!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 43569


When women wear men's clothing, the key, IMO, is that the proportions and tailoring need to be correct for the woman's body. The exception is when a woman is intentionally wearing a man's article of clothing casually like when a girlfriend wears "his" oversized sweater or OCBD, but with truly tailored clothing, as seen here, it needs to have been cut and tailored for a woman's frame.

In this case, as best as one can tell, the suit looks pretty good (meaning, she doesn't look like she's wearing a man's suit that been cut down to fit her), but the shirt look too big as you can see a meaningful gap between her neck and the shirt's collar.


----------



## Fading Fast

From 1939's "Fast and Furious." I didn't watch the movie, but had it on mute in the background and saw this sport coat fly by. Hard to find pics of it. It's a very heavy and nubby Tweed, which you can see a bit of in the second pic.


----------



## FiscalDean

Flanderian said:


> I think I'd prefer the girl without the suit!


I think you're on the wrong web site.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> From 1939's "Fast and Furious." I didn't watch the movie, but had it on mute in the background and saw this sport coat fly by. Hard to find pics of it. It's a very heavy and nubby Tweed, which you can see a bit of in the second pic.
> View attachment 43585
> View attachment 43586


Beautiful cut, and beautiful cloth. Looks like a heavier weight Donegal to me. :beer:


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Beautiful cut, and beautiful cloth. Looks like a heavier weight Donegal to me. :beer:


I agree and the pics do not do it justice at all.

Also, the gentleman to the far right (Franchot Tone) has on a gorgeous suit - he looks like he walked right out of one of your Esquire ads (the pic also doesn't do his suit and entire outfit justice).


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I agree and the pics do not do it justice at all.
> 
> Also, the gentleman to the far right (Franchot Tone) has on a gorgeous suit - he looks like he walked right out of one of your Esquire ads (the pic also doesn't do his suit and entire outfit justice).


Beautiful also!

Growing up among early '50's TV I encountered B&W films from the '30's with such handsome tailoring as the norm. Perhaps that is why this mode became my touchstone for sartorial beauty.

Upon graduating from junior high school, I was given the opportunity to acquire an ensemble in which to attend my graduation. It's only in the last few years I realized that my 14-year-old mind assembled an outfit that was inspired by the strollers, or semi-formal wear occasionally seen in such films during my early childhood. I was unaware of it at the time.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian

G. The Bruce sporting a handsome Fading Fast model tweed coat with requisite balmacaan collar and Raglan shoulders -


----------



## Fading Fast

I like the one Flanderian posted immediately above better (for the reasons he noted), but still, this is a handsome overcoat.


----------



## David J. Cooper

https://www.seamusgolf.com/collections/scottish-tartans/products/fescue-tweed


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I like the one Flanderian posted immediately above better (for the reasons he noted), but still, this is a handsome overcoat.
> View attachment 43634


This is a handsome coat! As is the rest of the ensemble. (Though the cap is bit oversized for my preference.) Would this were still parading down runways, a harbinger of better days to come.


----------



## Flanderian

David J. Cooper said:


> https://www.seamusgolf.com/collections/scottish-tartans/products/fescue-tweed


Droll! 

(Lovely tweed!)


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 43641


Not kidding, I have a Ralph Lauren blanket that is pretty darn close to that material. With the pants, that would not be quiet look in today's world of blue or grey suits.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Not kidding, I have a Ralph Lauren blanket that is pretty darn close to that material. With the pants, that would not be quiet look in today's world of blue or grey suits.


Ralph must have been very fond of that particular glen check! Your observation that you had a blanket in it jogged my memory that somewhere in the nether regions of my wardrobe I actually have a pair of Polo brand socks in the same pattern and colors. Must be more than 30 years old by now. (I am to socks, what Eagle is to footwear! 🤔)


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Ralph must have been very fond of that particular glen check! Your observation that you had a blanket in it jogged my memory that somewhere in the nether regions of my wardrobe I actually have a pair of Polo brand socks in the same pattern and colors. Must be more than 30 years old by now. (I am to socks, what Eagle is to footwear! 🤔)


The blanket goes back to the early '90s.

A sock hobby is less expensive than a shoe one.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> The blanket goes back to the early '90s.
> 
> A sock hobby is less expensive than a shoe one.


That is certainly the useful rationalization I employ! :crazy:

But when one's collection stretches into the hundreds, and I find myself unable to part with beloved pairs of English fine gauge, sized, merino wool over-the-calf socks from F. R. Tripler in which the elastic tops have long since given up the ghost, it makes me wonder.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> G. The Bruce sporting a handsome Fading Fast model tweed coat with requisite balmacaan collar and Raglan shoulders -
> 
> View attachment 43614


Saw this one in a scene from 1954's "On the Waterfront" the other day (worn by a detective - i.e., these were everyday people coats):















For our Trad fans, note too, the OCBD and tartan tie (maybe wool).


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Saw this one in a scene from 1954's "On the Waterfront" the other day (worn by a detective - i.e., these were everyday people coats):
> View attachment 43665
> View attachment 43667
> 
> For our Trad fans, note too, the OCBD and tartan tie (maybe wool).


Very cool! Thanks! 👍


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Wow that's the biggest necktie I've ever seen. And the lousiest knot.


----------



## Flanderian

Leaving more than the bottom button undone on a vest/waistcoat does nothing for its appearance, or that of the wearer. This is a shame here, as it's otherwise an appealing composition. I find this same principle does not apply to sleeveless cardigans.


----------



## Peak and Pine

There was a time for some of us, early on, called You Wear What You've Got, and you wore it any way you wanted. I miss those days. Though not that much. This is an example of that style, and it is a style, though often (at least for me) borne of necessity. So yes, I admire this pic.


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 43662


Very good, though I wonder given the apparent weight and its being a DB, whether it really is a tweed rather than "merely" a plaid pattern.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Very good, though I wonder given the apparent weight and its being a DB, whether it really is a tweed rather than "merely" a plaid pattern.


It's a near thing, as I think the definition of tweed is somewhat flexible. But I had to study it closely as it's appearance is certainly more refined, and not shaggy at all. And the yarns are more tightly spun than many tweeds. But not all tweeds are necessarily of the loosely spun and woven shaggy variety, as exampled by keepers tweed which is hardy stuff of tightly spun and closely woven yarn.


----------



## IT_cyclist

Flanderian said:


> I think I'd prefer the girl without the suit!


I think that's a different site.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Perhaps a little too Donegal-ly, still...


----------



## Peak and Pine

Whoa. Pair with an ecru shirt and send me one of these...


----------



## Fading Fast

Love the tie and own several like it (that sit unworn with most of my "work" clothes).


----------



## FiscalDean

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 43693
> 
> Love the tie and own several like it (that sit unworn with most of my "work" clothes).


I really like that tie. I wonder who the maker is and if it's a current offering.


----------



## Fading Fast

FiscalDean said:


> I really like that tie. I wonder who the maker is and if it's a current offering.


I'm sorry, I can't find the source. That said, my experience is that herringbone wool ties are usually available almost every season. Some years, they are very popular and everyone has them; some years, you have to look a bit, but usually you'll find them. Start looking when the fall stuff hits - good luck.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 43693
> 
> Love the tie and own several like it (that sit unworn with most of my "work" clothes).


Nice composition!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Suit's good, really good.
Too much red in this precious pairing. Were the square gone, but the tie made of similar instead of the red thing shown, all might look less affected.


----------



## Fading Fast

From the movie "The Third Man" on TCM right now. Joseph cotton in a classic herringbone (I assume) Tweed overcast (raglan shoulder but not a balmacaan collar) and a heck of a classic outfit.

















And couldn't resist posting this duffle coat from the same movie:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> From the movie "The Third Man" on TCM right now. Joseph cotton in a classic herringbone (I assume) Tweed overcast (raglan shoulder but not a balmacaan collar) and a heck of a classic outfit.
> View attachment 43704
> 
> View attachment 43702
> 
> 
> And couldn't resist posting this duffle coat from the same movie:
> View attachment 43705


Lovely Ragland sleeve overcoat.

At least, I think it's an overcoat. Once a common distinction, I doubt too many remember that there was once similar coats, but in two distinct types differentiated mainly by weight but also by subtle difference of design, overcoats and topcoats.


----------



## Color 8

Flanderian said:


> Lovely Ragland sleeve overcoat.
> 
> At least, I think it's an overcoat. Once a common distinction, I doubt too many remember that there was once similar coats, but in two distinct types differentiated mainly by weight but also by subtle difference of design, overcoats and topcoats.


Please expand on this . . .


----------



## Flanderian

Color 8 said:


> Please expand on this . . .


The skinny on this is that both coats were more formal, I.e. "dressy" coats intended to be worn over men's suits. The overcoat typically was a heavier, more robust coat intended for truly cold weather, whereas the topcoat was more of an in-between, lighter version intended for days that recommended a coat over a suit, but were too warm for heavy, thick tweeds, which sometimes also contained a warm liner of wool, pile or even fur.


----------



## Flanderian

Lovely check tweed! Tie with it, not so much -


----------



## Oldsarge

Yes, the tie is one that would go well on a worsted business suit but looks overly stuffy with the tweed.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 43735


Superb! :beer:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 43750


Lovely jacket, beautifully composed photo! 👍


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Superb! :beer:


This is pretty darn close to my ideal three-piece tweed suit. I've owned versions of it over the year, but never that really "right" one. Now alas, I can't imagine buying one to hang next to all my other all but unused suits.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> This is pretty darn close to my ideal three-piece tweed suit. I've owned versions of it over the year, but never that really "right" one. Now alas, I can't imagine buying one to hang next to all my other all but unused suits.


But then we could have a suit museum to display next to our shoe museum! 

And while I'm assuming you're as dismayed as I might be by spending the necessary resources to essentially waste a beautiful suit such as this through neglect, I must confess that I feel both enriched and comforted by some long ago treasured acquisitions that are now largely unseen. The dozens of suspenders/braces I now so rarely wear are among the most typical. But, heck, I guess I could add ties to that, as most of the more dressy variety will likely never be worn again. (At least, by me! )


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 43735


A truly memorable tweed!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> But then we could have a suit museum to display next to our shoe museum!
> 
> And while I'm assuming you're as dismayed as I might be by spending the necessary resources to essentially waste a beautiful suit such as this through neglect, I must confess that I feel both enriched and comforted by some long ago treasured acquisitions that are now largely unseen. The dozens of suspenders/braces I now so rarely wear are among the most typical. But, heck, I guess I could add ties to that, as most of the more dressy variety will likely never be worn again. (At least, by me! )


I joke sometimes that I am now the curator of a small clothing museum of 40L suits, sport coats and overcoats, 15/34 shirts, 31-2/33 pants, ties, dress shoes and boots, etc., as I wear almost none of it anymore. And I'm fully employed in finance; it's just a combination of my WFH (from '12 on), biz casual and all-casual workplaces, plus the all but complete elimination of these type of clothes from the non-work world.

As many of you know, I lost a chunk of my wardrobe to a basement fire several years ago. To be honest, while I feel bad sometimes about several of those items, it doesn't make one difference in truth as they'd just be more clothes that I owned that I don't wear.

I've already given away a lot to Good Will, but my guess, I'll start to give more away soon as I don't believe we are "going back."


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Woofa

Flanderian said:


> But then we could have a suit museum to display next to our shoe museum!
> 
> And while I'm assuming you're as dismayed as I might be by spending the necessary resources to essentially waste a beautiful suit such as this through neglect, I must confess that I feel both enriched and comforted by some long ago treasured acquisitions that are now largely unseen. The dozens of suspenders/braces I now so rarely wear are among the most typical. But, heck, I guess I could add ties to that, as most of the more dressy variety will likely never be worn again. (At least, by me! )





Fading Fast said:


> I joke sometimes that I am now the curator of a small clothing museum of 40L suits, sport coats and overcoats, 15/34 shirts, 31-2/33 pants, ties, dress shoes and boots, etc., as I wear almost none of it anymore. And I'm fully employed in finance; it's just a combination of my WFH (from '12 on), biz casual and all-casual workplaces, plus the all but complete elimination of these type of clothes from the non-work world.
> 
> As many of you know, I lost a chunk of my wardrobe to a basement fire several years ago. To be honest, while I feel bad sometimes about several of those items, it doesn't make one difference in truth as they'd just be more clothes that I owned that I don't wear.
> 
> I've already given away a lot to Good Will, but my guess, I'll start to give more away soon as I don't believe we are "going back."


Just my 2 cents but if you havE plenty of clothes you either cannot or do not wear anymore, throw them on the exchange here at aaac. Charge enough to cover your shipping and get back a few dollars towards buying that perfect suit you really want and might wear at least a few times then go buy it as long as it's not taking food off your table. Life is too short. I go to too many estate sales Where the closets are full of stuff from 30 years ago and that are virtually worthless in this day and age. Members here like tweedydon can move your stuff to someone who will love to have it and if your lucky, everyone comes out ahead. Of course if you have family that will enjoy it they should come first but if not, let them serve their purpose and be worn again. Clean closets that care for your remaining clothes instead of stuffing in One more hangar is also a nice benefit. IMO better three suits that fit well, that you love, and that will be worn at least sometimes than 23 suits that do nothing but collect dust. I cannot imagine a scenario where things will become more dressy in our lifetimes.
of course you could also get up each and everyday and put on a suit and tie. Show the young generation the way it used to be and how to do it right. You are AAAC members and some men throughout the world still do this...


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Please disregard the aircraft carrier size knot in the charming post just above, Okay, don't. I realize it's difficult.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Also disregard the giant spider crawling up your leg. And the burglars upstairs going through your things.


----------



## Oldsarge

And the asteroid bearing down directly on your house.


----------



## Fading Fast

Woofa said:


> Just my 2 cents but if you havE plenty of clothes you either cannot or do not wear anymore, throw them on the exchange here at aaac. Charge enough to cover your shipping and get back a few dollars towards buying that perfect suit you really want and might wear at least a few times then go buy it as long as it's not taking food off your table. Life is too short. I go to too many estate sales Where the closets are full of stuff from 30 years ago and that are virtually worthless in this day and age. Members here like tweedydon can move your stuff to someone who will love to have it and if your lucky, everyone comes out ahead. Of course if you have family that will enjoy it they should come first but if not, let them serve their purpose and be worn again. Clean closets that care for your remaining clothes instead of stuffing in One more hangar is also a nice benefit. IMO better three suits that fit well, that you love, and that will be worn at least sometimes than 23 suits that do nothing but collect dust. I cannot imagine a scenario where things will become more dressy in our lifetimes.
> of course you could also get up each and everyday and put on a suit and tie. Show the young generation the way it used to be and how to do it right. You are AAAC members and some men throughout the world still do this...


This is all fair and thoughtful advice. As noted, I've been giving clothes to Good Will in hope that someone will benefit from them. I am now down, at least, 50% from 2012 (when I switched to WFH) and will probably give more away this year (or post pandemic when things reopen).

I've tried to keep a "core" of, also as you said, the really good-fitting items / the better quality ones / the most "timeless" / etc., but no matter how much I prune, since I have so little use for these items, they still just sit.

The complete collapse - at least in my world - of need for these clothes is stunning. From business meetings to social occasions, in less than a decade, I went from regularly wearing suits/ties/sport coats/dress pants to almost never wearing them and I still go to those meetings / events / etc., just no one dresses for them anymore.

To another of your points. I applaud those who enjoy putting on a suit and tie - as member @upr_crust does on many days - despite it not being a work or social "requirement," but I don't enjoy doing that. I still dress nicer - nice chinos / sport coats / OCBDs - than most do and regularly get comments about why I'm "so dressed up." Honestly, it kind of depresses me, so I can't imagine doing a full suit and tie would make it anything but worse.

Again, I appreciate your thoughtful comments.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Guest

I'm lucky. At 73 I'm still teaching and plan to do so into my 80s. As an eccentric older professor, I routinely wear 3-piece suits year around. When it gets cooler, I wear all manner of tweeds with fair-isle sweaters or odd vests. The students love it, and I love it.


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## BillC

I'm lucky. My father taught me to always dress well. I'm 73 and still teaching. I plan to continue teaching into my 80s. I wear 3-piece suits year around. But when it becomes cooler, I wear a lot of tweeds. Either as suits or with fair-isle vests or odd vests. Of course, I'm an eccentric professor, but my students love it. BillC


----------



## Flanderian

Woofa said:


> Just my 2 cents but if you havE plenty of clothes you either cannot or do not wear anymore, throw them on the exchange here at aaac. Charge enough to cover your shipping and get back a few dollars towards buying that perfect suit you really want and might wear at least a few times then go buy it as long as it's not taking food off your table. Life is too short. I go to too many estate sales Where the closets are full of stuff from 30 years ago and that are virtually worthless in this day and age. Members here like tweedydon can move your stuff to someone who will love to have it and if your lucky, everyone comes out ahead. Of course if you have family that will enjoy it they should come first but if not, let them serve their purpose and be worn again. Clean closets that care for your remaining clothes instead of stuffing in One more hangar is also a nice benefit. IMO better three suits that fit well, that you love, and that will be worn at least sometimes than 23 suits that do nothing but collect dust. I cannot imagine a scenario where things will become more dressy in our lifetimes.
> of course you could also get up each and everyday and put on a suit and tie. Show the young generation the way it used to be and how to do it right. You are AAAC members and some men throughout the world still do this...


Excellent suggestions, but as I'm 70+, and live in quasi-red-neck suburbia, my social occasions only entail suits when I'm seeing someone off. And to be frank, my fondness for them has waned, though sport jackets are a different matter, and I have a half dozen of which I'm fond, and still find occasion to wear, with a tie if I'm so inspired, but also with an ascot or neckerchief. And I do so with pleasure.

In my sartorial universe, suits are part of the world of business, as they were for me for 45+ years, or are more fitting to city life. And while I understand and applaud member Fast Forward's choice to move more seamlessly among his contemporaries, I might feel differently in his environs due to generational differences, and less concern of social stigma.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 43782


Absolutely outstanding! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Absolutely outstanding! :icon_cheers:


Agreed (PS too much, but that's just me) very Flanderian - love the shirt, too.


----------



## Flanderian

Guest-30880 said:


> I'm lucky. At 73 I'm still teaching and plan to do so into my 80s. As an eccentric older professor, I routinely wear 3-piece suits year around. When it gets cooler, I wear all manner of tweeds with fair-isle sweaters or odd vests. The students love it, and I love it.





BillC said:


> I'm lucky. My father taught me to always dress well. I'm 73 and still teaching. I plan to continue teaching into my 80s. I wear 3-piece suits year around. But when it becomes cooler, I wear a lot of tweeds. Either as suits or with fair-isle vests or odd vests. Of course, I'm an eccentric professor, but my students love it. BillC


An excellent opportunity to express your sartorial preferences, while at the same time offering an inspirational alternative standard for those whom you instruct. I've found a current among some young men approaching adulthood who have a nascent interest in a more evolved manner of dress, no doubt in rebellion to the lack of interest, or outright contempt for such among their parent's generation.
May you fan those embers into a mighty a conflagration! :beer:


----------



## Flanderian

Traditional English horse blanket tweed in a soft Neapolitan cut -

(Apologies for the sub-optimal tie.)


----------



## Peak and Pine

Sorta Black Watch, but not really, finding little to defame here except the collar, hey I'm a Peter Pan fan too but just not here. With a suit like this best to plain down everything else, so lose the square, the collar, the chain thing, the buckle shoes, whatever's in the lapel hole. Guess there were a few things to defame. Nice suit though. Maybe lose the vest. Damn, there I go again.









PRL 2015


----------



## Peak and Pine

Not sure how this works; you lay your stuff out on your deck, then get up on a stepladder to shoot it? Or do you nail it to the wall? Anyway, thought the jacket was worth posting here. The shoes, pants and tie, not so much.


----------



## upr_crust

Fading Fast said:


> This is all fair and thoughtful advice. As noted, I've been giving clothes to Good Will in hope that someone will benefit from them. I am now down, at least, 50% from 2012 (when I switched to WFH) and will probably give more away this year (or post pandemic when things reopen).
> 
> I've tried to keep a "core" of, also as you said, the really good-fitting items / the better quality ones / the most "timeless" / etc., but no matter how much I prune, since I have so little use for these items, they still just sit.
> 
> The complete collapse - at least in my world - of need for these clothes is stunning. From business meetings to social occasions, in less than a decade, I went from regularly wearing suits/ties/sport coats/dress pants to almost never wearing them and I still go to those meetings / events / etc., just no one dresses for them anymore.
> 
> To another of your points. I applaud those who enjoy putting on a suit and tie - as member @upr_crust does on many days - despite it not being a work or social "requirement," but I don't enjoy doing that. I still dress nicer - nice chinos / sport coats / OCBDs - than most do and regularly get comments about why I'm "so dressed up." Honestly, it kind of depresses me, so I can't imagine doing a full suit and tie would make it anything but worse.
> 
> Again, I appreciate your thoughtful comments.


Thank you, FF, for the mention. As it is, I wear the suits that I own (at least those that were already in rotation prior to the lockdown - those still packed away in dry cleaner bags will remain so until dry cleaners re-open) in order so that I might enjoy the use of them, even though I do not even have the pretense of an office for which to dress. It is not my intention to let my wardrobe enrich a charity shop some 20 to 30 years hence, at the time of my demise, with garments by which time might be unfashionable. It is better that I enjoy them (and that others might enjoy seeing me wearing them) in the here and now.

To that end, that is why I have continued to post photos in the WAYWT thread - that, and my seemingly boundless reserves of personal vanity.


----------



## upr_crust

Peak and Pine said:


> Sorta Black Watch, but not really, finding little to defame here except the collar, hey I'm a Peter Pan fan too but just not here. With a suit like this best to plain down everything else, so lose the square, the collar, the chain thing, the buckle shoes, whatever's in the lapel hole. Guess there were a few things to defame. Nice suit though. Maybe lose the vest. Damn, there I go again.
> 
> View attachment 43795
> 
> PRL 2015


I would have to agree about the club collar (I have never found rounded collars attractive) and the lapel ornament (the only times I've worn anything on my lapel were about five years ago, on the occasion of my marriage, and for a museum party in 2018, which was at the insistence of a friend who bought four matching boutonnieres for the four guests in our group), but otherwise, I would wear that suit as accessorized - I favor watch chains (at least the one I own), monk strap shoes, and pocket squares. (The preference for monk strap shoes might be congenital - my father once told me that, during WWII, while in the Army Air Corps stationed in Gulfport, MS, that he took a trip all the way to New Orleans, specifically in order to buy a pair of monk straps. )


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 43800
> View attachment 43801


I love the Tweed and am intrigued by the bicycle...I never knew Brooks Brothers sold bicycles...or at least the seats? :icon_scratch:

I learn something new here every day!


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## StephenRG

eagle2250 said:


> I never knew Brooks Brothers sold bicycles...or at least the seats? :icon_scratch:


They don't.

https://www.brooksengland.com/en_us


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## David J. Cooper

The most traditional of bike saddles. Why is he wearing a wall clock on his wrist?


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## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 43800
> View attachment 43801


:loveyou:

Ah, I can't resist a nice check, and that is splendid!


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## Flanderian

David J. Cooper said:


> The most traditional of bike saddles. Why is he wearing a wall clock on his wrist?


:laughing:

👍 👍 👍


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## Flanderian

Keeper tweed Raglan coat -


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## Fading Fast

⇧ Impressive, not my favorite, but impressive all the same.


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## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Impressive, not my favorite, but impressive all the same.


I thought this might be a Fast Forward Favorite!? 😢 
(FFF, 3F? )

Boy, would have loved a coat like this 30 or 40 years ago! I've always had a special fondness for SB belted coats with Raglan sleeves. A keepers tweed would have been remarkably practical at the time as I spent a significant portion of my day on the road, and in and out of cars. Both warm and sturdy!

My fondness for belted coats is primarily for aesthetic reasons, but I can also attest to their practicality specific to cold weather. The belt creates a separate compartment for the torso that insulates better than the same coat would without a belt. I found they wear 5 to 10 degrees warmer. Such wisdom obtained via many years of public transport.


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## Flanderian

Coat above over jacket -

(I can *feel* the style! )


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> I thought this might be a Fast Forward Favorite!? 😢
> (FFF, 3F? )
> 
> Boy, would have loved a coat like this 30 or 40 years ago! I've always had a special fondness for SB belted coats with Raglan sleeves. A keepers tweed would have been remarkably practical at the time as I spent a significant portion of my day on the road, and in and out of cars. Both warm and sturdy!
> 
> My fondness for belted coats is primarily for aesthetic reasons, but I can also attest to their practicality specific to cold weather. The belt creates a separate compartment for the torso that insulates better than the same coat would without a belt. I found they wear 5 to 10 degrees warmer. Such wisdom obtained via many years of public transport.


Again, it's a beautiful and impressive coat that would always have a home in my wardrobe, but my heart is fated to a bolder herringbone and, despite the advantages of a belt (you are correct in my opinion), my ideal one does not have a belt - an example of aesthetic trumping practicality.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Again, it's a beautiful and impressive coat that would always have a home in my wardrobe, but my heart is fated to a bolder herringbone and, despite the advantages of a belt (you are correct in my opinion), my ideal one does not have a belt - an example of aesthetic trumping practicality.


So, we wouldn't even be able to tempt you with a big, hairy grey herringbone! tweed?


----------



## Flanderian

Though I also like DB coats without a full coat, though a half belt might preferred. (I need a waist!) The lovely Loden Cloth coat below might be an example, and I also very much like the inverted rear pleat.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> So, we wouldn't even be able to tempt you with a big, hairy grey herringbone! tweed?
> 
> View attachment 43820
> 
> 
> View attachment 43821


Don't get me wrong, I love the earlier coat and this one, I'm just saying, if I'm going for my ideal, no belt.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Don't get me wrong, I love the earlier coat and this one, I'm just saying, if I'm going for my ideal, no belt.


Just teasing, as the grey herringbone tweed of that particular coat might be described as brobdingnagian!


----------



## Peak and Pine

Similar in frame to something I posted here yesterday and carrying pretty much the same critique, like way too much going on, so lose the chain (consider this new-fangled thing called a wrist watch) and whatever's in the lapel. Thankfully the not-often-seen breast pocket flap prevents a square from popping up like the hand puppets they remind me of (alone here I know). Still and all. I present to you a mjghty fine suit and, Jack, try it some day without the vest...


----------



## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> This is all fair and thoughtful advice. As noted, I've been giving clothes to Good Will in hope that someone will benefit from them. I am now down, at least, 50% from 2012 (when I switched to WFH) and will probably give more away this year (or post pandemic when things reopen).
> 
> I've tried to keep a "core" of, also as you said, the really good-fitting items / the better quality ones / the most "timeless" / etc., but no matter how much I prune, since I have so little use for these items, they still just sit.
> 
> The complete collapse - at least in my world - of need for these clothes is stunning. From business meetings to social occasions, in less than a decade, I went from regularly wearing suits/ties/sport coats/dress pants to almost never wearing them and I still go to those meetings / events / etc., just no one dresses for them anymore.
> 
> To another of your points. I applaud those who enjoy putting on a suit and tie - as member @upr_crust does on many days - despite it not being a work or social "requirement," but I don't enjoy doing that. I still dress nicer - nice chinos / sport coats / OCBDs - than most do and regularly get comments about why I'm "so dressed up." Honestly, it kind of depresses me, so I can't imagine doing a full suit and tie would make it anything but worse.
> 
> Again, I appreciate your thoughtful comments.


My response to that is always "I enjoy it".

That's all the reason one needs.


----------



## IT_cyclist

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 43800
> View attachment 43801


Though I haven't embraced the Brooks saddle yet, I still have to hit like on these photos based on the inclusion of a very Trad saddle.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> Similar in frame to something I posted here yesterday and carrying pretty much the same critique, like way too much going on, so lose the chain (consider this new-fangled thing called a wrist watch) and whatever's in the lapel. Thankfully the not-often-seen breast pocket flap prevents a square from popping up like the hand puppets they remind me of (alone here I know). Still and all. I present to you a mjghty find suit and, Jack, try it some day without the vest...
> 
> View attachment 43824


No, man, the vest and pocket watch are demanded, nay required! It's the shirt that has to go.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> No, man, the vest and pocket watch are demanded, nay required! It's the shirt that has to go.


Okay, you get to keep the chain. So what's with those anyway? Afraid the watch'll be left on the train, the one to Shanghai with the gas lamps and rattling Port glasses? The time, she be now, hook the chain to an iPhone and I'm in.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Uh oh, top vest button undone. Somebody's gonna be rattled.

Below. Kaiser Wilhelm II, lookin' good in colorized tweed. (The Kaiser had a withered left arm, most portraits, as this, were arranged so it didn't show.)


----------



## FiscalDean

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 43839


I really like the tweed but I'm on the fence about the vest with lapel.


----------



## Peak and Pine

FiscalDean said:


> I really like the tweed but I'm on the fence about the vest with lapel.


...as am I. But I think I might get off if the lapels of the vest were pressed flat. The roll of the jacket lapel over the roll of the vest lapel give the impression of wearing a jacket over a jacket.

Also, the lapels of both jacket and vest appear exceptionally wide and the gorge exceptionally high. Whoever readied this for mannequin display was really into rolls, check out the shirt collar, not the type to take this pronounced roll. Don't much care for any of this. How do you mess up a simple h'bone outfit?


----------



## Fading Fast

FiscalDean said:


> I really like the tweed but I'm on the fence about the vest with lapel.


I think we, AAAC (I don't remember if you were part of the discussion) talked about this recently in this thread. I'm on the fence. In the one I posted this morning, I'm not a fan of the suit jacket's larger lapel and wide-and-long roll. But I'm a tall and thin guy, so lapels like that "own" me.

Years ago, I had a heavy Tweed MTM 3-piece made and went with lapels on the vest as I thought I might wear the vest separately (which in the ~10 years I've owned it, I've never done once). That said, since its lapels aren't wide and have modest roles, I think it works, but it does "busy" up the "middle" area a bit.


----------



## Oldsarge

None of my vests have lapels. I'm not sure whether that's from deliberate choice or laziness. Probably it just never occurred to me to want one with lapels.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> None of my vests have lapels. I'm not sure whether that's from deliberate choice or laziness. Probably it just never occurred to me to want one with lapels.


If I ever order another Tweed MTM (with the way clothing trends are going, I doubt that will happen, but you never know), I'm going to go without a lapel on the vest this time so that I'll have one with and one without. For me, I can look at a hundred pictures and read all about some article of clothing or some clothing detail, but actually owning the clothes - living with them - is how I learn what I really like and what really works for me.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I think we, AAAC (I don't remember if you were part of the discussion) talked about this recently in this thread. I'm on the fence. In the one I posted this morning, I'm not a fan of the suit jacket's larger lapel and wide-and-long roll. But I'm a tall and thin guy, so lapels like that "own" me.
> 
> Years ago, I had a heavy Tweed MTM 3-piece made and went with lapels on the vest as I thought I might wear the vest separately (which in the ~10 years I've owned it, I've never done once). That said, since its lapels aren't wide and have modest roles, I think it works, but it does "busy" up the "middle" area a bit.


+1.

Beautiful tweed. But I also can't abide shoulder top gorges. Combined with the more recent affectation of leaving the top, or multiple top buttons of tailored vests undone, it commonly bespeaks those newly come to tailored clothing, in which novelty trumps nuance.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> +1.
> 
> Beautiful tweed. But I also can't abide shoulder top gorges. Combined with the more recent affectation of leaving the top, or multiple top buttons of tailored vests undone, it commonly bespeaks those newly come to tailored clothing, in which novelty trumps nuance.


Good call on the shoulder-top gorges. I knew something was bothering me and that was it, I just didn't realize it was that until you pointed it out.


----------



## Flanderian

Not quite as high as your example but this lovely tweed would look better if they were lower. Though Herr Stricker's physique makes unusual demands.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Flanderian

The horse blanket tweed caught in the wild!


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Take jacket off, ditch tie, open collar, pull on brown crew neck, put jacket back on, wear sparingly and only to the Senior Center. The other guys will get a kick out of it. But as shown, nix, nix. A tie with that thing and ribs get tickled.

If this damn thing were to go on forever, or even through the summer, I'd consider making one of these. Think they're cool, within the confines of a hot epidemic.


----------



## Oldsarge

It certainly would be warm . . .


----------



## Fading Fast

Kirk Douglas' suit from the movie "Young Man with a Horn:"























He also wore this sport coat (maybe suit, don't remember) in the movie:








My comments on the movie here  #355


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 43855
> 
> 
> Not quite as high as your example but this lovely tweed would look better if they were lower. Though Herr Stricker's physique makes unusual demands.


Not intending this as a complaint, but I quite literally broke out in a sweat just looking at that picture, substantially proving the 'power of suggestion!' :crazy:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Kirk Douglas' suit from the movie "Young Man with a Horn:"
> View attachment 43889
> View attachment 43890
> View attachment 43891
> 
> 
> He also wore this sport coat (maybe suit, don't remember) in the movie:
> View attachment 43892
> 
> My comments on the movie here  #355


Beautiful tweeds! I like the Donegal even better than the herringbone. But since Mr. Douglas had perfectly fine shoulders of his own, I feel his purchasing of auxiliary ones, superfluous.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Beautiful tweeds! I like the Donegal even better than the herringbone. But since Mr. Douglas had shoulders of his own, I feel his purchasing of auxiliary ones, superfluous.


Agreed on the shoulders, but it was also the time. 1950s Hollywood = big padded shoulders.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> Not intending this as a complaint, but I quite literally broke out in a sweat just looking at that picture, substantially proving the 'power of suggestion!' :crazy:


I should label such get ups as _*Not Eagle Approved for Floridians*_*! * 😅


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Agreed on the shoulders, but it was also the time. 1950s Hollywood = big padded shoulders.


It was indeed! I remember those mighty jackets from my earliest years. Fortunately, those extremes had a fairly short run. Part of what Esquire termed, The Bold Look.


----------



## Flanderian

Lovely tweed! The color of the display form is however a misfortune.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 43937


Wonderful tweed, and cap! 👍

Funny, I look OK in a flat cap (Or at least I think I do! ) but dreadful in the so-called newsboy variety depicted. :icon_scratch:


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> v












Great cap and great photograph. There's a name to those, is it 'six panel', or something like that? I tire of the Peaky Blinders references, that style's been around long before the (very good) series. Besides. I'M Peaky! (Surprised you slapped a Like on that (burp) pink thing just above.)


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Color 8

Flanderian said:


> Wonderful tweed, and cap! 👍
> 
> Funny, I look OK in a flat cap (Or at least I think I do! ) but dreadful in the so-called newsboy variety depicted. :icon_scratch:


I like the utility of tweed caps, but they are not favored by the better half.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 43939
> 
> 
> Great cap and great photograph. There's a name to those, is it 'six panel', or something like that? I tire of the Peaky Blinders references, that style's been around long before the (very good) series. Besides. I'M Peaky! (Surprised you slapped a Like on that (burp) pink thing just above.)


I don't care for the sweater. Even for a color addict like me, it's too much. But over something more muted, I believe the coat would go well. But as I said, I'm a color addict. It probably comes from being born and raised in the sunny south.


----------



## Flanderian

Color 8 said:


> I like the utility of tweed caps, but they are not favored by the better half.


SWMBO refers to them as "old man hats." Then at least I've come to them honestly! :beer:


----------



## Oldsarge

I insist they're a health item. Either they keep out the cold or they prevent skin cancer. If she loves you she should insist you wear one.


----------



## Fading Fast

Might be a dupe (I have a vague memory of it or something similar), but really like the way (other than the pocket square) all the tones are similar and harmonize so well. I often try to do something similar with my grays.


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> SWMBO refers to them as "old man hats." Then at least I've come to them honestly! :beer:





Oldsarge said:


> I insist they're a health item. Either they keep out the cold or they prevent skin cancer. If she loves you she should insist you wear one.


The Ivy/Newsboy/Six-Panel hats are classics, at times verbally maligned by our better halves, but I am here to tell you Mrs Eagle (AKA: SWMBO) really hates the Tilly Hats that I wear for sun protection. She tells me that they invest me with a look similar to that of a localized Jack Hanna...not a good look to her eyes and one that I should avoid. She prefers the look of my woven sea-grass field hat or perhaps my Stetson, straw Temple hat.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> The Ivy/Newsboy/Six-Panel hats are classics, at times verbally maligned by our better halves, but I am here to tell you Mrs Eagle (AKA: SWMBO) really hates the Tilly Hats that I wear for sun protection. She tells me that they invest me with a look similar to that of a localized Jack Hanna...not a good look to her eyes and one that I should avoid. She prefers the look of my woven sea-grass field hat or perhaps my Stetson, straw Temple hat.


I must have pedestrian tastes as I really like them.


----------



## Color 8

eagle2250 said:


> The Ivy/Newsboy/Six-Panel hats are classics, at times verbally maligned by our better halves, but I am here to tell you Mrs Eagle (AKA: SWMBO) really hates the Tilly Hats that I wear for sun protection. She tells me that they invest me with a look similar to that of a localized Jack Hanna...not a good look to her eyes and one that I should avoid. She prefers the look of my woven sea-grass field hat or perhaps my Stetson, straw Temple hat.


Tweed caps are much better than fedoras in damp, chilly weather in autumn and winter, and much more utilitarian, in the same way that tweed sport jackets outperform worsted. Whether or not they are to *everyone's* taste is another matter


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 43958
> 
> Might be a dupe (I have a vague memory of it or something similar), but really like the way (other than the pocket square) all the tones are similar and harmonize so well. I often try to do something similar with my grays.


Very nice! 👍

I can't recall seeing it before.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> The Ivy/Newsboy/Six-Panel hats are classics, at times verbally maligned by our better halves, but I am here to tell you Mrs Eagle (AKA: SWMBO) really hates the Tilly Hats that I wear for sun protection. She tells me that they invest me with a look similar to that of a localized Jack Hanna...not a good look to her eyes and one that I should avoid. She prefers the look of my woven sea-grass field hat or perhaps my Stetson, straw Temple hat.


I don't wear hats constantly, but when I do, I have hats that satisfy specific purposes. Stetson poplin Gable model for serious rain, a straw for warm weather sun, and tweed for cold and nasty.



Color 8 said:


> Tweed caps are much better than fedoras in damp, chilly weather in autumn and winter, and much more utilitarian, in the same way that tweed sport jackets outperform worsted. Whether or not they are to *everyone's* taste is another matter


Tweed caps are marvelous for colder weather, and particularly the wet, colder weather of the drizzle/light rain variety where such caps display surprising resistance to getting truly wet. I wasn't a hat wearer in the late '60's while living in Germany, but rain could be an almost a constant for extended periods. Usually not heavy rain, but the sort that ranges from a cold mist falling to a moderate, but ultimately soaking variety. I can recall that in '68 it began raining in the middle of August and didn't stop until around Christmas . . . when it snowed.

Ideal weather for ducks and tweed caps!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Some distaff Tweed - really posted it for our bold-herringbone fans (like me):


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Some distaff Tweed - really posted it for our bold-herringbone fans (like me):
> View attachment 43988


Fantastic tweed, but I might find it a little small.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> The Ivy/Newsboy/Six-Panel hats are classics, at times verbally maligned by our better halves, but I am here to tell you Mrs Eagle (AKA: SWMBO) really hates the Tilly Hats that I wear for sun protection. She tells me that they invest me with a look similar to that of a localized Jack Hanna...not a good look to her eyes and one that I should avoid. She prefers the look of my woven sea-grass field hat or perhaps my Stetson, straw Temple hat.





Fading Fast said:


> I must have pedestrian tastes as I really like them.





Color 8 said:


> Tweed caps are much better than fedoras in damp, chilly weather in autumn and winter, and much more utilitarian, in the same way that tweed sport jackets outperform worsted. Whether or not they are to *everyone's* taste is another matter












Courtesy of -

https://tweedlandthegentlemansclub.blogspot.com/2020/05/hanna-hats-video-john-hanna-on-first.html


----------



## Peak and Pine

Just to be clear, the below is an outer coat, so severely tailored an under coat might not fit, still...


----------



## Peak and Pine

Below be quibble ready, but I am not among you...


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Some distaff Tweed - really posted it for our bold-herringbone fans (like me):
> View attachment 43988


Given the apparent absence of buttons/button holes, may we assume that the above is a decidedly stylish wrap coat design, frequently favored by the fairer sex? Ironically Mrs Eagle recalls making a very similar coat of a blue herringbone patterned tweed, for a 4-H club sewing project. The coat was paired with a pale blue, fine wale corduroy dress. She still has the blue ribbon awarded for her sewing efforts, but alas the coat and dress are casualties of the passage of time and the incessant appetites of moths. LOL.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 44018


My mind tells me that I shouldn't like that cuff, but for some reason, this morning, I do. It must be this damned social isolation? In any event, the sleeve appears a tad too short.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

The gauntlet above was paraded out here before, along with a couple other examples. (Post #3207 March 25, 2020.) Click on _Expand_ to see the whole post. I don't think the cuff is too short, but the sleeve may be too narrow considering the fabric's heft.



Peak and Pine said:


> *Gauntlet cuffs on tweeds*
> 
> Here's one similar to the above, from a different angle. Note how the gauntlet stays straight going into the vent, but curves to zero on the over-flap.
> 
> View attachment 41776
> 
> 
> Here is a three-inch version acting more like a turn-up, going straight across
> 
> View attachment 41778
> 
> 
> And a very unusual one, a half-gauntlet ending short of the vent and in an upward swoop.
> 
> View attachment 41779
> 
> 
> Of the quartet, my favorite is the one first posted above. This...
> 
> View attachment 41780


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> My mind tells me that I shouldn't like that cuff, but for some reason, this morning, I do. It must be this damned social isolation? In any event, the sleeve appears a tad too short.


Just pretend it's a missile silo.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 44025


Lovely tweed.

But just can't cotton to the jeans look with it.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Lovely tweed.
> 
> But just can't cotton to the jeans look with it.


I prefer corduroy with denim, but it's not too bad. At least the denim is in good repair and he has a real beard instead of some scruff.


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 44043


And even better beard but he should drop the vest.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> And even better beard but he should drop the vest.


Did'ja notice he's sitting on the back of a gypsy wagon, so folks better check their closets, see if they're missing a vest.


----------



## Fading Fast

Feels vaguely familiar, so might be a dupe.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## EclecticSr.

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 44064


Switch out the tie for something wine/burgundy with pheasant motif. Lovely cloth. I have several shirts such as depicted from Cording's, tall wide band collars, none of that skimpy stuff others offer.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

An outer coat, good enough, even good'er with this good lighting.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Fading Fast

From the 1948 movie "The Naked City." They are heavy wool, maybe Tweed, but cool suits regardless.


----------



## Fading Fast

Cross post from the "Ralph" thread:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> From the 1948 movie "The Naked City." They are heavy wool, maybe Tweed, but cool suits regardless.
> View attachment 44091
> View attachment 44093
> View attachment 44094
> View attachment 44095


Wonderful tweed at the top! 👍



Fading Fast said:


> Cross post from the "Ralph" thread:
> View attachment 44097


Nice cloth, but I can't get past the cut and fit, too small, and too small.


----------



## Flanderian

Near monochrome and low-key, dark, but rich.


----------



## Oldsarge

I hope they photographed that poor chap in a meat locker! That's a lot of wool.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> I hope they photographed that poor chap in a meat locker! That's a lot of wool.


The weather has changed. There used to be winter days in our part of the world, or even several, when venturing outside resulted in instant frost in your nostrils. Hasn't happened in years. But my thought when viewing this was that such a get-up would be perfect when the weather was -

:cold: :cold: :cold:


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Near monochrome and low-key, dark, but rich.
> 
> View attachment 44100


I like it. Everything looks well tailored and of high quality. And while a bit dark, I still think it works. Like Sarge, though, I was thinking that is one really warm outfit.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Flanderian said:


> Near monochrome and low-key, dark, but rich.












They make sleeves for a reason. Use'em.

Below, helluva a coat, minus the crazy supression. Mad King Ludwig inspired, he of the fairy tale Bavarian castles. It all fits.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 44124


Put together is the first thing that comes together...really nicely put together! Thank you for sharing that.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Put together is the first thing that comes together...really nicely put together! Thank you for sharing that.


Thank you. My only quibble is that the button-down collar points look a bit short, but then I'm a trad guy who thinks all button-down collars should have "roll." That said, I get that that is not what's being attempted with this shirt's collar.

Most of the men under 40 today wear that type of collar (short points, no roll) if they are wearing a button-down one. I asked a friend who wears them about it (he's a younger guy who's into clothes) and he said it looks "neater" to his eye than the "big ones" from Brooks. And the generation wheel turns.

And for full disclosure, I own some from J.Crew and, while I don't love them, I don't hate them as the rest of the shirt is pretty nice. That said, for the last several years, I've only bought OCBDs that have traditional length collar points.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

For the tweed vest, though the coat's pretty swell...










Detail shot of something else. The poster loves this kinda stuff...










Below, tweed pants, a minor touch. But the forum-loathed all-black blazer pairs and looks well here, don't'cha think.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 44184


Inspired by the heft and beauty of that tweed fabric , but less than inpressed with the reprehensible condition of that over-used right pocket. And we too can own a paper back copy of The Sartorialist X book, foa a paltry #30 from Amazon.com! LOL.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Inspired by the heft and beauty of that tweed fabric , but less than inpressed with the reprehensible condition of that over-used right pocket. And we too can own a paper back copy of The Sartorialist X book, foa a paltry #30 from Amazon.com! LOL.


That pocket is one of the reasons why I like flaps on my side pockets in general as the "jetted" (is that the right term) pockets tend to "sag" overtime.

I almost never use the side pockets of my suit jackets or sport coats, in part, because I don't have any compelling reason to use them and, in part, because I like the the entire pocket structure to stay neat - not pulled, rumpled, bulging, etc. - looking.

But for overcoats, I do have a need - gloves and other stuff that I want to get to without unbuttoning, so, if I had jetted pockets on my overcoat, they would sag. That said, I don't think I've ever owned an overcoat that didn't have flaps on the side pockets.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 44184


Ciao, Luca! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Flanderian

Jacket of Sherry and Holland Donegal tweed -


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oops. Sorry. Hit the wrong button.

I meant this...

...









I'm partial to green.
(My mom was a frog.)


----------



## Oldsarge

Lovely shooting jacket


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 44222
> 
> 
> Oops. Sorry. Hit the wrong button.
> 
> I meant this...
> 
> ...
> View attachment 44223
> 
> 
> I'm partial to green.
> (My mom was a frog.)


Offering my apologies in advance, I must ask, "what is that Cossack doing with a pair of Texas A&M Senior Boots?" This is really going to throw the Cadet Corps into a competitive rage! LOL.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 44228


Very fine coat and jacket. I especially like the subtle glen plaid of the coat. Enlivens without dominating the ensemble.

:beer:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Very fine coat and jacket. I especially like the subtle glen plaid of the coat. Enlivens without dominating the ensemble.
> 
> :beer:


For me, that's the ideal way to play glen plaid.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> For me, that's the ideal way to play glen plaid.


Certainly for a coat. 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Beautiful tweed, and beautiful cut. It deserves better!


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

A repeat because it deserves it...


----------



## Peak and Pine

This sort of jacket seldom looks good with any but a very unobtrusive tie. So nix this one. Great jacket. Very solid, made of rocks.


----------



## Fading Fast

Here's a quirky bonus pic describe as "fingerless Tweed gloves." Okay.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 44272


Mighty, might tweed! irate:



Fading Fast said:


> Here's a quirky bonus pic describe as "fingerless Tweed gloves." Okay.
> View attachment 44284


I've seen latex fetishists, might this be something for tweed fetishists!?


----------



## Flanderian

A tweed vest put to good effect -


----------



## Flanderian

Apologies if a dupe. But worth the risk. W W Chan bespoke Donegal tweed.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Here's a quirky bonus pic describe as "fingerless Tweed gloves." Okay.
> View attachment 44284


Quirky...yes, but subtly provocative within the Tweedy community...I would bet? Now that tweed skirt does appear to have a bit of an edge to it.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian

Obviously not tweed, but it would look mighty nice under some!


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> Apologies if a dupe. But worth the risk. W W Chan bespoke Donegal tweed.
> 
> View attachment 44320
> 
> 
> View attachment 44321
> 
> 
> View attachment 44322
> 
> 
> View attachment 44323


I had no idea I needed a Donegal tweed suit so badly...


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 44341
> 
> 
> View attachment 44342


Both very nice! 👍

The gentleman on the left up top with, I believe, Jude Law is a very fine Italian actor I've seen in several Italian language films by Lina Wertmuller, but I can't recall his name. Anyone?



StephenRG said:


> I had no idea I needed a Donegal tweed suit so badly...


But don't we all!?


----------



## Peak and Pine

Outside of the tweed part, not sure exactly what this is. But that's not stopping me from liking it. Partial to blue stuff anyway.


----------



## Peak and Pine

This probably appears too small or too tight to most. Cannot explain why, but on this guy it looks good. Just me perhaps.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Next up, tweed stew. Chambray shirt with a three-piece'er (!) and with a collar pin (!). O but the point buttons are undone. Well you have to if you wear a pin, 'cause the holes don't align with the buttons. Whadda suit. Fine natural shoulder. Blues and grays, best friends here. I have pre-pressed the Like button three times for this. (Warning: you are about to pass through the No Fair Isle Zone.)


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Both very nice! 👍
> 
> The gentleman on the left up top with, I believe, Jude Law is a very fine Italian actor I've seen in several Italian language films by Lina Wertmuller, but I can't recall his name. Anyone?
> 
> But don't we all!?


That's Giancarlo Gianinni who stared in the three short gems that Caruso put out. The Good Italian, parts I-III. I really wish they would bring out another. His depiction of the Prince of Saranga is a model of how one should live.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> That's Giancarlo Gianinni who stared in the three short gems that Caruso put out. The Good Italian, parts I-III. I really wish they would bring out another. His depiction of the Prince of Saranga is a model of how one should live.


Thank you!

I just checked his filmography, and it's enormous -

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giancarlo_Giannini
When I cross referenced it with Lina Wurtmiller's films it seems he starred in many of those which I remember, which I was shocked to learn date back to the early 70's. These are Italian language films and I used to go to see them in what was then termed an "art house" cinema. Now such can't be found outside of major metropolitan areas, notably, NYC.

I do remember their work together as being marvelous, and often very funny, as he's very expressive and has beautiful timing. I'll need to look for him in the work you mention.

Some of the films I remember him from are -

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seven_Beauties
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Seduction_of_Mimi
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Love_and_Anarchy
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A_Night_Full_of_Rain


----------



## Fading Fast

Has a pretty strong echo of those '30s Esquire pics Flanderian posted in a separate thread.


----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> This probably appears too small or too tight to most. Cannot explain why, but on this guy it looks good. Just me perhaps.
> 
> View attachment 44374


Indeed, we appear to be looking at a picture of five pounds, shoehorned into a three pound sack. Other than fit, it is a good looking rig.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Tweed about to be run over...


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 44391
> 
> Has a pretty strong echo of those '30s Esquire pics Flanderian posted in a separate thread.


Beautiful coat! 👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 44407


Really nice combination and way to incorporate an older-style sport coat into a more-contemporary look.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Really nice combination and way to incorporate an older-style sport coat into a more-contemporary look.


I had a HSM blazer I purchased in the early 70's with similar details. Frankly, I never cared for them, but at the time those style elements were ubiquitous. And while certainly similar to that era, the jacket at issue is actually a recent offering by Bladen.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> I had a HSM blazer I purchased in the early 70's with similar details. Frankly, I never cared for them, but at the time those style elements were ubiquitous. And while certainly similar to that era, the jacket at issue is actually a recent offering by Bladen.


It's funny, but some of the leisure suit and other details in'70s sport coats have cognates in the '30s clothes most of us admire. To be sure, having an echo doesn't mean the result - as the '70s proved - is similar.

The above coat looks new to my eye, but with a very '30s vibe. That said, it's not my personal style, but I still appreciate what it is, which is also why I liked the way it was combined to give it a more modern feel.

It's like wearing a polo coat or tweed sport coat over jeans: done well, I like the mixing and matching of eras as, IMHO, it makes older classics more relevant today. Ralph Lauren does this all the time - sometimes it works / sometimes not so much, but I applaud the effort.

With, to my eye, the recent acceleration away from classic attire (and while unimportant in the big picture, Covid-19 is only going to further this trend) almost anything that keeps classics in circulation is a good thing.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> It's funny, but some of the leisure suit and other details in'70s sport coats have cognates in the '30s clothes most of us admire. To be sure, having an echo doesn't mean the result - as the '70s proved - is similar.


Yes, the '70's borrowed liberally from everywhere, and in this instance, classic '30's style. Then screwed them all up! :fool:


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 44412


Outstanding! :loveyou:


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Outstanding! :loveyou:


Pedigreed tweedhunden. 😁


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 44425
> View attachment 44426


Wow, beautiful coats! 👍

(But the guy on the right has to stop trying to wear his kid brother's clothes! )


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Cross post with the Ralph Lauren thread:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Cross post with the Ralph Lauren thread:
> View attachment 44467


Nice! 👍

Alma matter?


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Nice! 👍
> 
> Alma matter?


I thought the R was for Ralph not Rutgers as Rutgers colors are scarlet and black. To this day, I have never bought a single Rutgers logo item. That big R, like the bear sweater I posted today over in the "Ralph" thread are part of an aspect of Ralph Lauren's business I just don't understand. Clearly there's a decent customer base for it, but I very rarely see anyone wearing the big logos or bears. However, since they keep making that stuff, they must be selling it to someone.


----------



## Flanderian

I suspected it wasn't legit, but thought I remembered you are a Rutger's alumnus. The R depicted looks a little like the stylized letter sometimes used on Rutgers gear -










But the sweater's color is closer to Harvard Crimson -










Logo merchandise was required for some folks buying Ralph's stuff for at the last 30 years. While I searched through their merchandise if anything interested me for any on which it was absent. Am currently wearing my only Polo logo'ed item, a $50 pair of leather sneaks for the summer. Purchased only because they're a really nice shade of tobacco suede, and replacement for my ubiquitous slippers, and the logo is embossed and discreetly placed, and largely invisible.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> I suspected it wasn't legit, but thought I remembered you are a Rutger's alumnus. The R depicted looks a little like the stylized letter sometimes used on Rutgers gear -
> 
> View attachment 44485
> 
> 
> But the sweater's color is closer to Harvard Crimson -
> 
> View attachment 44486
> 
> 
> Logo merchandise was required for some folks buying Ralph's stuff for at the last 30 years. While I searched through their merchandise if anything interested me for any on which it was absent. Am currently wearing my only Polo logo'ed item, a $50 pair of leather sneaks for the summer. Purchased only because they're a really nice shade of tobacco suede, and replacement for my ubiquitous slippers, and the logo is embossed and discreetly placed, and largely invisible.


I have a few logo items, but like yours, the logo is small and discrete (and it was the only option for the item). What I don't get is the giant R or bears or 1967 that are billboard size. I know there was a vogue years back for some of that stuff with some younger people, but I think that's past and I doubt they are selling $300+ sweaters with giant polo bear logos to that demographic now, but again, somebody must be buying them.


----------



## Fading Fast

Patchwork Tweed?


----------



## London380sl

That's a poor choice of a background to show that coat off. The coat just blends into the background. 

I wish I could say the same thing for the patchwork chino. They are evidently not aimed at me.
Switch them with normal tan chino and that would be a nice fall outfit.


----------



## Fading Fast

London380sl said:


> That's a poor choice of a background to show that coat off. The coat just blends into the background.
> 
> I wish I could say the same thing for the patchwork chino. They are evidently not aimed at me.
> Switch them with normal tan chino and that would be a nice fall outfit.


I had a similar thought. While I wouldn't buy the coat (I'm sure it's pretty darn expensive and I don't need a "special" expensive overcoat), I thought it kinda worked as the patchwork was all in the same color family and didn't jump out at you, but the patched up chinos looked forced and were overkill.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Patchwork Tweed?
> View attachment 44500


Gotta buy this kid a new pair of britches! 

Interesting coat though, and I agree that if they chose a different background, we'd have a better idea of how it truly looks.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> Patchwork Tweed?
> View attachment 44500


long coat: check
sweater: check
shoes: check
belt and trousers: delete, delete, delete!


----------



## Flanderian

Bladen.


----------



## Oldsarge

The Tweed Run?


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> The Tweed Run?


Could be. :beer:


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 44542


Magnificent tweed, and well put together. And another thing I note, from the little I can see of the wearer's complexion and hair color, the shade ideally compliments him. This bright olive and rust wouldn't work for everyone, but I like it particularly well for him.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Magnificent tweed, and well put together. And another thing I note, from the little I can see of the wearer's complexion and hair color, the shade ideally compliments him. This bright olive and rust wouldn't work for everyone, but I like it particularly well for him.


Agreed, it's as if he had the tweed made to match his beard.


----------



## Oldsarge

Since you can do that, he may have.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 44584


Good job, Ralph!

I'd only want to beat a little softness into that jacket, and elect a bit lighter grey flannel trousers.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Good job, Ralph!
> 
> I'd only want to beat a little softness into that jacket, and elect a bit lighter grey flannel trousers.


I thought of you immediately when I saw that beautiful brown herringbone. Agree on your comments as more softness in the jacket and lighter pants would be an improvement.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 44616


Stunning!


----------



## Oldsarge

And today it's shorts weather! _Sigh_ . . .


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 44616


Very classic, very well done, very Ben Silver-like


----------



## Fading Fast

Might have posted this one many moons ago (or in the "Illustration" thread):


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Might have posted this one many moons ago (or in the "Illustration" thread):
> View attachment 44639


Many years ago I had more than a few McGregor labels hanging in my closet. However, I must confess reservations regarding the fabric pattern of that jacket. :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Many years ago I had more than a few McGregor labels hanging in my closet. However, I must confess reservations regarding the fabric pattern of that jacket. :icon_scratch:


I agree something looks off in the fabric.

I think - it's scary how this stuff gets scrambled in your head after several decades - in the '80s, I owned a McGregor casual coat, kinda a heavy fall jacket. In my mind, I see the McGregor label on the inside up near the collar and a short metal chain right above it for hanging the coat on a hook.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Might have posted this one many moons ago (or in the "Illustration" thread):
> View attachment 44639


Cool! :icon_cheers:

Very '50's.

I always liked the McGregor brand. Very solid, middle quality sportswear. Their foray into tailored clothing was at this time fairly recent, if I recall. The tweed depicted would likely have been a domestic cloth imitating some of the characteristics of what comes from the British isles, and while fine for what it was, it would never be confused with Harris or Donegal. Their expertise at tailored clothing was not what it was for simple sportswear. And these jackets had a very, very casual appearance, which on their own terms, wasn't bad at all.


----------



## Flanderian

Real Donegal style tweed. But could very well be Harris Tweed. The weight of it looks to be that at which much of Harris Tweed was originally woven. Wear this, and you'll never be cold again. True fact; early polar expeditions wore tweed to fight the extreme cold.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Cool! :icon_cheers:
> 
> Very '50's.
> 
> I always liked the McGregor brand. Very solid, middle quality sportswear. Their foray into tailored clothing was at this time fairly recent, if I recall. The tweed depicted would likely have been a domestic cloth imitating some of the characteristics of what comes from the British isles, and while fine for what it was, it would never be confused with Harris or Donegal. Their expertise at tailored clothing was not what it was for simple sportswear. And these jackets had a very, very casual appearance, which on their own terms, wasn't bad at all.


By the time I became aware of the brand it, was the early '80s and, to my knowledge, they had given up the tailored-clothing line at that point and were, as you said, a solid, middle-quality sportswear company.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Real Donegal style tweed. But could very well be Harris Tweed. The weight of it looks to be that at which much of Harris Tweed was originally woven. Wear this, and you'll never be cold again. True fact; early polar expeditions wore tweed to fight the extreme cold.
> 
> View attachment 44646


That's fantastic.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> By the time I became aware of the brand it, was the early '80s and, to my knowledge, they had given up the tailored-clothing line at that point and were, as you said, a solid, middle-quality sportswear company.


Jibes with my recollection, as their tailored clothing had a rather short run. Never really able to compete with more refined tailored clothing available at the same price point.



Fading Fast said:


> That's fantastic.


Borrowed from the immaculate blogger Cleav.


----------



## Fading Fast

Second one feels familiar, probably a dupe.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Second one feels familiar, probably a dupe.
> View attachment 44662
> View attachment 44663


The bottom is great! Visually, it works perfectly. But I'd look for a shirt/tie combo a little more relaxed. It's different mood. But that's very picky. Just something that bothers me as perfection forestalled.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 44698


Handsome tweed, handsome style! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Lovely tweed, poor choice of tie -


----------



## Peak and Pine

This is not tweed, but the treatment could be done in tweed. I'm putting it here so it won't get lost in the Art Deco thread. Besides, I think it's spectacular and as you know I only post spectacular stuff.

Presenting, Deco pleats (next to a Deco wardrobe with deco-y booz atop). Back and front. Worsted probably, in tawn. About this being able to be done in tweed (and look good): I take that back..

































So good I did it twice. That, or I hit the wrong button and can't figure out how to undo it.


----------



## Oldsarge

I agree with your correction. That wouldn't look good in tweed, though it might not be too bad if the tux shirt went away.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Jackets this bold - - a good 12" before the pattern repeats - - seldom look good with _any_ tie. I like the jacket, absent a tie. Try a snow white button-down with open collar under an olive or cream vee-neck. Then the jacket. Mebbe, not so sure until seen.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> ... it might not be too bad if the tux shirt went away.


What makes you think that's a tux shirt? Reach for your specs. And you'll be forgiven.


----------



## Oldsarge

My bad. I thought the stripes were pleats!


----------



## Flanderian

Redux?


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 44723
> 
> 
> Redux?


It's a great coat but the shirt is too dark and the tie is silly.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> It's a great coat but the shirt is too dark and the tie is silly.


I sorta agree with this. If you scrap the tie, and please do, the depth of the blue and the green would seem to rub well against each other. But what's with the hanky buttoned to the jacket?_ Hold that sneeze please while I unbutton this thing_. The sleeves appear to be set-in, a favorite look, achieved by ironing both seam allowances, sleeve and shoulder, together and inward, toward the shoulder. Here it is again for a closer look...


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> It's a great coat but the shirt is too dark and the tie is silly.


I like it. The shirt is denim, and I enjoy a well made denim shirt with a tie and tweed as a casual alternative. The tones, colors and textures of all three items offer interesting contrasts and harmonies to my eye. The tie is a fairly classic medallion print.

Darker shirts with sportswear have been around for a while -


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> This is not tweed, but the treatment could be done in tweed. I'm putting it here so it won't get lost in the Art Deco thread. Besides, I think it's spectacular and as you know I only post spectacular stuff.
> 
> Presenting, Deco pleats (next to a Deco wardrobe with deco-y booz atop). Back and front. Worsted probably, in tawn. About this being able to be done in tweed (and look good): I take that back..
> 
> View attachment 44704
> 
> 
> View attachment 44705
> View attachment 44704
> View attachment 44705
> 
> 
> So good I did it twice. That, or I hit the wrong button and can't figure out how to undo it.


You had me convinced, the pleated back, the half belt in the back, right up to the pleated pockets...all three of them! Those pockets are an abomination to one's eyes.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 44734


Nice! 👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Bold Tweed, but what I really like is the dog tie.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Bold Tweed, but what I really like is the dog tie.


Cool tie!

But two things that bug me; lose the scarf thingy, and put a dimple in that handsome tie.

I realize how picky that is, but ever since I figured out about 40 years ago that I much preferred the appearance of a dimpled tie, (And succeeded at mastering the simple skill) un-dimpled ties, *that are actually entirely proper*, bug the heck out of me. 

As I said, picky.


----------



## Oldsarge

Agreed, though I am more put off by the scarfy thing than I am by the lack of dimple. 

And FadiingFast, that's a Chipp2 necktie, I believe.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Cool tie!
> 
> But two things that bug me; lose the scarf thingy, and put a dimple in that handsome tie.
> 
> I realize how picky that is, but ever since I figured out about 40 years ago that I much preferred the appearance of a dimpled tie, (And succeeded at mastering the simple skill) un-dimpled ties, *that are actually entirely proper*, bug the heck out of me.
> 
> As I said, picky.


I understand, I'm a dimple guy too.



Oldsarge said:


> Agreed, though I am more put off by the scarfy thing than I am by the lack of dimple.
> 
> And FadiingFast, that's a Chipp2 necktie, I believe.


Thank you for the color. Sadly, I wear a tie no more than a few times a year and my (I don't know) fifty-plus ties more than meet my needs. I can justify (lie to myself about "needing") a lot of things, but buying another tie isn't one of them.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Peak and Pine

A device may be holding the chambray upright, or buttons or snaps beneath the points. Whichever, collars like this make a world of difference. The tonal quality of the shirt and blazer are kinda wishy-washy. A darker shirt with jacket maybe, or a darker jacket with shirt, an enhancement either way. Me talking, don't know about you.


----------



## Flanderian

Cleav The Immaculate -


----------



## Peak and Pine

Flanderian said:


> Cleav The Immaculate -


...and King of the Self Conscious Pose.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Photos like the above bring alive unwanted memories. I actually knew people who looked, dressed and postured like that, some because they were seeded and grew to semi-maturity here in the Downeast, others because they'd OD'd on _Brideshead_. I kept both at 6-foot length long before covid.


----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 44774


The shawl collar in combination with the patch pocket design surprises me and frankly leaves me scratching my head. :icon_scratch:


----------



## Peak and Pine

eagle2250 said:


> The shawl collar in combination with the patch pocket design surprises me and frankly leaves me scratching my head. :icon_scratch:


Why?


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 44789


Very nice jacket! :loveyou:

Love the tweed, the soft tailoring and suede elbow patches.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Very nice jacket! :loveyou:
> 
> Love the tweed, the soft tailoring and suede elbow patches.


Agreed, the soft tailoring combined with the soft, thick fabric looks fantastic. Also, while I'm not normally an elbow-patch guy, they do look pretty darn good here. Of course, having the patches match both the sweater and the model's hair doesn't hurt.

I'm trying to remember (so many clothes, so many decades), but I think the only elbow-patched jacket I ever owned was a BB loden-colored corduroy jacket whose patches were also loden colored - bought in the late '80s at the original Filene's basement in Boston for less than $100.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Agreed, the soft tailoring combined with the soft, thick fabric looks fantastic. Also, while I'm not normally an elbow-patch guy, they do look pretty darn good here. Of course, having the patches match both the sweater and the model's hair doesn't hurt.
> 
> I'm trying to remember (so many clothes, so many decades), but I think the only elbow-patched jacket I ever owned was a BB loden-colored corduroy jacket whose patches were also loden colored - bought in the late '80s at the original Filene's basement in Boston for less than $100.


I've got a couple corduroy jackets from Orvis I've had for years with elbow patches. These are comparatively inexpensive jackets with a so-so make. They're simple, and largely unconstructed. But I like the bi-swing back they have along with the patches. They're very versatile as casual country wear, and the elbow patches do add to their wear. Cloth such as tweed and corduroy because of its nature can abrade more easily, and quickly show wear.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> I've got a couple corduroy jackets from I've had for years with elbow patches. These are from Orvis and are comparatively inexpensive jackets with a so-so make. They're simple, and largely unconstructed. But I like the bi-swing back they have along with the patches. They're very versatile as casual country wear, and the elbow patches do add to their wear. Cloth such as tweed and corduroy because of its nature can abrade more easily, and quickly show wear.


It's funny, I don't remember what happened to that BB corduroy. Usually, I remember when I give an item way, but I have no memory of what happened with that one. I remember having it and liking it - pretty darn versatile jacket that could take a beating - but clearly, at some point, I sent it off to Good Will, but can't remember that at all.

In my defense, I moved about eight times in fifteen years back then, so culling happened often and amidst the chaos of a move. If I stumbled upon a good corduroy jacket, I'd be tempted, but as noted often, I don't have the opportunity to wear all the sport coats I already own.

I like Orvis' sport coats - decent value on sale - but they are just cut to freakin' big for my bird-like frame. Over the years, I've tried on its 40L and they are way oversized in a way that no tailoring could help. Hence, I've never owned one.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Extreme spacing between the buttons - - c. 4" is standard - - but little here to dislike, if you believe in personality in dress, including country mile button spacing. I'm in.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 44895


Nice jacket! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 44899


*Very* nice! 👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> Why?


The shawl collar seems too formal for the herringbone tweed weave and the patch pockets. Beyond that, the jacket does appear to be almost Bulletproof, which is a plus.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 44900


Nice clothes, but Aloysius steals the scene, as he does every scene he's in.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Nice clothes, but Aloysius steals the scene, as he does every scene he's in.


He does. As well as making a superb accessory. 👍

There used to be an older gentleman (About my age now! ) who would walk through our neighborhood accompanied by one of several of his teddy bears. He was always well dressed, often in handsome tweed jackets. My wife, also a walker, encountered him one day and said hello, and he was pleased to introduce her to this particular bear whose name was Brunhilde. As he drove an auto with a bumper sticker that read, "I'm an opera star!" I believe the derivation of his bear's name to be obvious.

I've since learned that some sufferers from Alzheimer's can benefit from carrying a doll, or evidently in his case a teddy bear, and that it helps them to remain anchored in the context of their environment.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> He does. As well as making a superb accessory. 👍
> 
> There used to be an older gentleman (About my age now! ) who would walk through our neighborhood accompanied by one of several of his teddy bears. He was always well dressed, often in handsome tweed jackets. My wife, also a walker, encountered him one day and said hello, and he was pleased to introduce her to this particular bear whose name was Brunhilde. As he drove an auto with a bumper sticker that read, "I'm an opera star!" I believe the derivation of his bear's name to be obvious.
> 
> I've since learned that some sufferers from Alzheimer's can benefit from carrying a doll, or evidently in his case a teddy bear, and that it helps them to remain anchored in the context of their environment.


An interesting post on many levels. My friend, I didn't know of the use of a Teddy for Alzheimer''s treatments. You have taught me something new today...Thank you!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 44922


*OUTSTANDING!!








*


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## StephenRG

For some reason last night I dreamed I was wearing a dark green herringbone tweed coat with patch pockets of navy blue canvas. What the hell is this forum doing to me?


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> *OUTSTANDING!!
> 
> View attachment 44927
> *


I thought this one needs to be filed away under "How to really dress up a grey herringbone sport coat."


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> For some reason last night I dreamed I was wearing a dark green herringbone tweed coat with patch pockets of navy blue canvas. What the hell is this forum doing to me?


Perhaps you should take your inspiration to Mr. Logsdail. _Little acorns_, you know! 












Fading Fast said:


> I thought this one needs to be filed away under "How to really dress up a grey herringbone sport coat."


Inspirational! (Just might substitute a plain white PS.)


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> ...
> 
> Inspirational! (Just might substitute a plain white PS.)


To avoid becoming a PS scold, I left that out of my earlier comments, but yes, white or none would be my PS choice.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> To avoid becoming a PS scold, I left that out of my earlier comments, but yes, white or none would be my PS choice.


The whole composition is rich and subtle, and I don't know that the PS in the photo offers more. A white PS, always discreet and always proper, is more in tune. And since any shirt that contains white in the pattern makes a white PS an automatic no-brainer, it's a winner on all counts.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Not sure what you two are debating is even a pocket square. Squares are seldom so pouf'ed that they reach the gorge, as this one does. Though it may be just laying there beneath the upturned sleeve. The square is black and picks up on the minor chord of the black band in the tie, and the patterns of the coat, shirt and tie all involve rigid lines so the paisley-or-whatever of the square is a decent offset. But I don't much like squares and would have left the pocket vacant, replaced maybe by the showing-end of a smart phone in case. Mine is dark green. And it's now 2020.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Not big on the now-popular idea of stuffing a cardigan beneath a jacket, unless you're in a never-ending cold spot, ask me, but the pic below exhibits both a likeable swooshy cut-away, and my stupidity. I thought the sleeves here were sewn with a needless hack, sending me to a closet to check mine and found them all similar. Each and every one I have personally let up or down and never noticed, just measured from the line of the existing cuff, and on a plain or striped sleeve you wouldn't necessarily notice. A check/plaid, as here, makes it obvious. Stupid me..


----------



## Oldsarge

Well, he is 87, after all.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Sarge refers to a recent pic of Sean Connery placed beside another of him in Tweed from the Bond days. In deference to Bond fans (okay I'm not one) I took the post down because Connery looked, er, not so good in the current one.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flannel / Tweed / something else? I don't know, but the shoulders are so well done, I wanted to post anyway.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Just enough tweed in the following to justify its inclusion. or pretend that it has 'cause I love this picture. To little avail I've groused about the pinched photos so often placed here, pics so close the clothing might just as well be left on the shelf. Bereft not only of heads and pants, but worse, personality. Not so with this...










What's almost magical about this is that, in essence, it's a straight-on, look-right-at-the-camera fashion shot. Not against a blank wall, nor its opposite, overstuffed with bric-a-brac and polished period pieces, just enough else to suggest where my guy might be. His lean, the scarf knot, the wide smile, all make up the personality of this pic. The main focus, the coat, is not the main focus. It plays it's part well though, without steppjng over everything else. I would post more pics of my own duds if I could riddle them with the personality this one has. (I'm working on it, but the style of the pics must match the style of writing, a rough'ish task.)


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> *OUTSTANDING!!
> 
> View attachment 44927
> *


Sergeant Ermy, we love you where ever you may be! Don't never, ever embarrass his beloved Marine Corps. LOL.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Flannel / Tweed / something else? I don't know, but the shoulders are so well done, I wanted to post anyway.
> View attachment 44955


Exceptional! Every item, and the composition! The tweed is so refined, that at first I thought it flannel. 👍

Love the cut and the evident quality of the tailoring. I only quail at the naif I-gent sprez of leaving the top button, or multiple upper buttons. undone on a tailored vest. I know everyone's doing it, and that's part of the problem. But IMO, it demonstrates an essential lack of understanding of the aesthetic of a 3-piece.

Wearing a tailored vest that way looks like heck.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

DONT like the vest.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

...or the shirt collar stuck outside of it. It's an old man's rig, an old guy trying to be jaunty and not quite cutting it.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> DONT like the vest.


Tisk, tisk!


----------



## Oldsarge

Seriously? It's . . . PINK! On a shirt, pink is okay but not on a vest and especially not such a pale, wimpy pink. Ewww . . .


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Seriously? It's . . . PINK! On a shirt, pink is okay but not on a vest and especially not such a pale, wimpy pink. Ewww . . .


Ah . . . ! :idea:

It's a neutral oatmeal shade flannel on my monitor, no pink at all.

While I have no issue with the right pink, in the right place at all, certainly not with this ensemble. 👍


----------



## Oldsarge

Sometimes your monitor can drive you crazy.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Summer tweed, wow, with gorgeous tie and stupid shirt collar...










Waitaminute, I didn't mean it, it's a great collar, pleeeez don't shoot me, I 'm beggin' here...


----------



## Fading Fast

From TCM yesterday, 1945's "The Woman in Green" a Sherlock Holmes movie set in '45 (hence, the '40s overcoats).

Sherlock, played by Basil Rathborn, and Watson, played by Nigel Bruce, wear the below classic overcoats (probably Tweed). As always - at least in this series of movies - Watson's clothes are louder.









A few more pics of the coats


----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> Summer tweed, wow, with gorgeous tie and stupid shirt collar...
> 
> View attachment 44991
> 
> 
> Waitaminute, I didn't mean it, it's a great collar, pleeeez don't shoot me, I 'm beggin' here...
> 
> View attachment 44992


Stupid, great...either could reasonably be applied to describe that shirt collar, but either way, that collar is memorable!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> From TCM yesterday, 1945's "The Woman in Green" a Sherlock Holmes movie set in '45 (hence, the '40s overcoats).
> 
> Sherlock, played by Basil Rathborn, and Watson, played by Nigel Bruce, wear the below classic overcoats (probably Tweed). As always - at least in this series of movies - Watson's clothes are louder.
> View attachment 45004
> 
> 
> A few more pics of the coats
> View attachment 45005
> 
> View attachment 45006


Great coats, and great movies!

Offered lots of fun in childhood.


----------



## Flanderian

An overly colorful ensemble, but a still a fantastic tweed from W. Bill. When wearing tweed this bright and dramatic, or anything for that matter, the most subtle and muted accompaniments would allow it to occupy center stage, which it will do whether you want if or not, without the competition that tips the entire composition into cacophony.

I can recall from 60 years ago unusual and notable tweeds being provided by W. Bill. It *delights* me that they still can.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Great coats, and great movies!
> 
> Offered lots of fun in childhood.


The movies from the '30s - '60s are an incredible time capsule of clothing. I sometimes get so distracted watching the clothes or cars or architecture or something that I have to go back to catch up on the plot. Also, many of them are still darn-good movies.


----------



## David J. Cooper

Peak and Pine said:


> Summer tweed, wow, with gorgeous tie and stupid shirt collar...
> 
> View attachment 44991
> 
> 
> Waitaminute, I didn't mean it, it's a great collar, pleeeez don't shoot me, I 'm beggin' here...
> 
> View attachment 44992


Good god. That Submariner is a monstrosity.


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> An overly colorful ensemble, but a still a fantastic tweed from W. Bill. When wearing tweed this bright and dramatic, or anything for that matter, the most subtle and muted accompaniments would allow it to occupy center stage, which it will do whether you want if or not, without the competition that tips the entire composition into cacophony.
> 
> I can recall from 60 years ago unusual and notable tweeds being provided by W. Bill. It *delights* me that they still can.
> 
> View attachment 45011


I wouldn't call it _overly_ colorful. A bit to bold for many, quite possibly, but I like it.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> I wouldn't call it _overly_ colorful. A bit to bold for many, quite possibly, but I like it.


The PS and to a lesser degree the tie are much brighter than I would wish. I'd want to surround it with complimentary items that allow this magnificent tweed to be pondered individually in all its richness and complexity. For example, one possible ensemble might be a soft, muted olive turtleneck and medium tan gaberdine trousers with a complimentary wool and silk PS from Drakes.

Perhaps something like this -


----------



## Flanderian

Or one of these -


----------



## Oldsarge

I especially like the olive turtleneck idea. I have one. I may have to give some thought to such a jacket.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> I especially like the olive turtleneck idea. I have one. *I may have to give some thought to such a jacket.*


Whoa, Sarge, easy fella, don't be too hasty here. Unless you're among the blessed few who can truly visualize a whole house color by staring at a two-inch paint chip and not be horrified when the first few brush loads go on. I protest (and am holding a hand-made sign in front of the Academy of Piss Poor Photography) these dinky little close-in clothing shots that get undeserved ooohs and aahs. Hold a paisley tie in your hand, marvel at the colors and intricacies, put it on, stand ten-feet from a mirror and note how it looks like somebody threw up on it, (Not all paisleys, granted.). So many shots here are lacking the context of being worn and by whom (excepting the old movie wardrobe shots, some just above, but their black and whiteness and dated style are also depressing, again as those just above.)

The salmon tweed under discussion is an over powering piece, and opposite of what Flandarian is saying, stuff should be drempt up to take your eyes off of it. Like maybe going bare chested. Think Reno. I hope this was helpful, Sarge. I'm here for you.


----------



## Oldsarge

I'm a sucker for fabric swatches. As Hemranjami can attest, I can sit in their showroom with a cup of coffee and leaf through swatch books all afternoon. So I am aware of W. Bill's tweed choices. Before I pull the trigger on a new coat, I'll either meet with Bijan up here or maybe even fly down to Costa Mesa thumb through their collection on site. 

Thing is, I have plenty of greens and blues, a number of tans and browns and even a grey or two. What I'm short of is rusts and/or burgundies. Need to do something about that.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

^^^
Repeat. (From me.) #3718. 05.10.20 w/commentary.

Below, something fresh, but whadda mess. Get to work on them sweater buttons, fella. And try, just try to see if that jacket will button. Bets are it won't since it hugs even whe open. And then there's...oh never mind. Color blends are nice tho. And who doesn't like an orange plastic watch.


----------



## David J. Cooper

Just got these, so I can have some tweed with me this summer.


__
http://instagr.am/p/CBLU6rgBicr/


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 45030


*YOWZER!*

Outstanding! 👍



David J. Cooper said:


> Just got these, so I can have some tweed with me this summer.
> 
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/CBLU6rgBicr/


----------



## Flanderian

A colorful Mr. Boyer. G. The Bruce, aka Bruce the Bold -


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> A colorful Mr. Boyer. G. The Bruce, aka Bruce the Bold -
> 
> View attachment 45050


I think I could get there without the scarf. The sport coat, tie and shirt look pretty good together (the sport coat's a bit much, but that's just low-key me), but that scarf is what? I don't know, but _too much_ is my first thought.

If pushing the envelope is part of Mr. Boyer's "brand," then good for him, but as an example of what most men would wear - me shlepping off to meet with a financial company, a lawyer on his way to court or an insurance agent having lunch with a potential client - not so much.

And even in a social situation where you, in theory, have a lot of leeway, the issue is, do you want to be _that guy_ - the guy that everyone notices, the guy that gets asked constantly about his outfit?


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I think I could get there without the scarf. The sport coat, tie and shirt look pretty good together (the sport coat's a bit much, but that's just low-key me), but that scarf is what? I don't know, but _too much_ is my first thought.
> 
> If pushing the envelope is part of Mr. Boyer's "brand," then good for him, but as an example of what most men would wear - me shlepping off to meet with a financial company, a lawyer on his way to court or an insurance agent having lunch with a potential client - not so much.
> 
> And even in a social situation where you, in theory, have a lot of leeway, the issue is, do you want to be _that guy_ - the guy that everyone notices, the guy that gets asked constantly about his outfit?


Ah! Many good points to ponder. 👍

One of the chief being that what suits one man may very well not suit another based upon his preferences or profession. But in the case of Mr. Boyer, passion and profession align fairly closely.

The jacket is a classic Russell Plaid defined largely by tradition. But yes, it is a bolder variant.

I like colorful scarves and neckerchiefs I consider tasteful and handsome, but that is in no way a requirement. And as by all accounts Mr. Boyer is both charming and obliging, he not infrequently lends his visage to the sale of some merchandise. In which instance I suspect he'd be delighted to be asked about his scarf! 

I think his may very well be one of Drakes' handsome versions, of which I'm particularly fond. So I have no problem with the scarf, but might have preferred a shirt of a complimentary color (Perhaps blue.) to one similar in tone.

Below is a similar current Drakes offering -


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Ah! Many good points to ponder. 👍
> 
> One of the chief being that what suits one man may very well not suit another based upon his preferences or profession. But in the case of Mr. Boyer, passion and profession align fairly closely.
> 
> The jacket is a classic Russell Plaid defined largely by tradition. But yes, it is a bolder variant.
> 
> I like colorful scarves and neckerchiefs I consider tasteful and handsome, but that is in no way a requirement. And as by all accounts Mr. Boyer is both charming and obliging, he not infrequently lends his visage to the sale of some merchandise. In which instance I suspect he'd be delighted to be asked about his scarf!
> 
> I think his may very well be one of Drakes' handsome versions, of which I'm particularly fond. So I have no problem with the scarf, but might have preferred a shirt of a complimentary color (Perhaps blue.) to one similar in tone.
> 
> Below is a similar current Drakes offering -
> 
> View attachment 45052


Not snark (way too much of that out there), but do you wear scarfs - silk scarfs - the way GBB is doing here - with a sport coat, shirt and tie pretty much just for the visual effect?

I have, occasionally, worn a wool scarf over sweater and heavy wool sport coat if the weather calls for it, but not too often, as even that can feel, to me, too affected.

But I don't think I've ever seen a man in a professional or even social situation wear one the way GBB is. I've seen that look on guys (looking pretty peacock) on the streets of NYC, but never encountered it in the situations noted.

Kinda related thought, the "louder" sport coat, until recently, seemed to have all but disappeared. It was pretty common up until about the '80s and, then, seemed to decline in popularity more every decade. But I have noticed a slight uptick in them in the stores the last few years. While not my thing, I'd love to see them make a comeback.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Not snark (way too much of that out there), but do you wear scarfs - silk scarfs - the way GBB is doing here - with a sport coat, shirt and tie pretty much just for the visual effect?
> 
> I have, occasionally, worn a wool scarf over sweater and heavy wool sport coat if the weather calls for it, but not too often, as even that can feel, to me, too affected.
> 
> But I don't think I've ever seen a man in a professional or even social situation wear one the way GBB is. I've seen that look on guys (looking pretty peacock) on the streets of NYC, but never encountered it in the situations noted.
> 
> Kinda related thought, the "louder" sport coat, until recently, seemed to have all but disappeared. It was pretty common up until about the '80s and, then, seemed to decline in popularity more every decade. But I have noticed a slight uptick in them in the stores the last few years. While not my thing, I'd love to see them make a comeback.


Yes, and no. Yes, I wear scarfs with sport jackets, but as I must confess to rarely wearing a tie any longer, it is more likely to be with turtleneck, or even an open collared sport shirt, though I'd not hesitate to wear it with the *right* shirt and tie. The scarf Mr. Boyer is wearing is particularly bold, and I currently don't have any of quite that wattage.  But if I did, I'd wear it joyfully with items I consider complimentary, and since this scarf will always take center stage, I'd personally select a quieter supporting cast. Which incidentally appears to more often be Mr. Boyer's personal preference, leading me to suspect that this scarf is the subject of a particular topic or promotion.

No, I would not have worn it for business, but sartorial matters *are* Mr. Boyer's business. Though since I'm no longer in business that's not a consideration. For many years I've admired some of Paul Stuart's more elaborate English silk printed scarfs in bold printed colors and patterns, though they're quite costly. And were I still in business, I'd delight in wearing one for business with a discreet shirt, tie and suit, perhaps under my dark grey Burberry trench coat.

Yes, bold sport jacket patterns can be dicey, and vary in popularity. I'm a sucker for most traditional patterns, and Russell Plaids are among the traditional Scottish patterns, but come in different colorations. I'd not select one for myself, but only because I find they're better suited to those who are slender.

Here're are a few traditional Russell Plaid jackets -


----------



## Flanderian

Summer tweed. Silk and linen -


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Summer tweed. Silk and linen -
> 
> View attachment 45057


That would fit quite nicely into my wardrobe.


----------



## Peak and Pine

I had never heard of Russell plaid. And I own one. Maybe two. Thought they were just widely-spaced Glen plaids. Apparently not. Thank ye for the info.

I also had never heard of Boyer until pics surfaced here a few seasons back. Always in brown. I looked him up, read a couple of his magazine articles (one running now on sleevehead.org) and watched him speak at a symposium via You Tube. His look and his take on men's wear is too afield from my own to follow him further.

Below, a scarf'ed up outfit that's not too bad. You don't often see a cat tie if that's what it is. Sarge will like that..










More to my liking is this from Orvis. You have to be in shape to climb into it and a three-day chin scruff helps the look. As does brow sweat because wearing this means you could come across as a Brian Fellows and you never want that. I'm getting to really like Orvis stuff and have a vast collection of two pieces.







I'm purposefully reposting Flandarian's third Russell plaid pic, below. The outfit's that good.














Edit, I've screwed this up pic-wise and can't seem to fix it. Live with it.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> That would fit quite nicely into my wardrobe.


Yeah, I think it's pretty nice. Ideally seasonable, simple and an attractive shade that can flatter just about anyone.

Edit: Lots of different colored trousers could compliment it, but this is an example of wear a rich navy blue would be nearly ideal.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> I think I could get there without the scarf. The sport coat, tie and shirt look pretty good together (the sport coat's a bit much, but that's just low-key me), but that scarf is what? I don't know, but _too much_ is my first thought.
> 
> If pushing the envelope is part of Mr. Boyer's "brand," then good for him, but as an example of what most men would wear - me shlepping off to meet with a financial company, a lawyer on his way to court or an insurance agent having lunch with a potential client - not so much.
> 
> And even in a social situation where you, in theory, have a lot of leeway, the issue is, do you want to be _that guy_ - the guy that everyone notices, the guy that gets asked constantly about his outfit?


Hell, yes!


----------



## Oldsarge

The cat tie is amusingly attractive but the Orvis jacket makes my trembling hand reach for my wallet. Fortunately, the other hand has better sense and slapped the greedy one down.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fortunately, the jacket in question is not currently listed on their website.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 45066


Unusual jacket under that coat! :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Unusual jacket under that coat! :icon_scratch:


Agreed, I'm hoping some members provide insight. And that's a really nice duffle over it.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Nice - you can see the quality of the clothes and of the tailoring.

⇩ The tartan shirt is one strong thing too much (white or other solid shirt would work better); otherwise, I like the outfit (and, of course, I'd lose the PS)


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Nice - you can see the quality of the clothes and of the tailoring.
> 
> ⇩ The tartan shirt is one strong thing too much (white or other solid shirt would work better); otherwise, I like the outfit (and, of course, I'd lose the PS)
> View attachment 45126


Agreed on all counts and would add that tucking tie to reveal the beltless waistband of his trousers is a bit of wasted effort!


----------



## StephenRG

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Nice - you can see the quality of the clothes and of the tailoring.
> 
> ⇩ The tartan shirt is one strong thing too much (white or other solid shirt would work better); otherwise, I like the outfit (and, of course, I'd lose the PS)
> View attachment 45126


_De gustibus_...I don't like club collars with a tweed jacket, nor club collars with pins, nor coloured body/white collar with informal jackets, nor that tie with that shirt. PS is fine, though. And I do like that jacket.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Nice - you can see the quality of the clothes and of the tailoring.
> 
> ⇩ The tartan shirt is one strong thing too much (white or other solid shirt would work better); otherwise, I like the outfit (and, of course, I'd lose the PS)
> View attachment 45126


A lot going on here. Some I like, but am less fond of others.

Too much tradition attempting to be too much fashion. And the two aesthetics are antithetical. Not a matter of seasoning one with a bit of the other, but a wholesale, _Let's through the whole kitchen sink in! _You get to wear either, but ultimately you have to pick only *one.*

Problems: Shoulder top gorges. Low rise, hip-hugger trousers. A nice woolen sweater vest half unbuttoned from the bottom to destroy any possible aesthetic balance of the parts, The model's hair style. I think his hair looks good, but it is just one example of trying to encompass two different antithetical aesthetics. Not only do the items worn look worse because of it, but it does also! It's a lose/lose choice. You get to pick one.

The solid collar and tartan body shirt and a club tie has been done by Ralph for at least 50 years. Sometimes it's worked rather well, here it does not, and not least because for some reason the points of the club collar are worn outside the border of the sweater vest.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Nice outfit (I can even abide the PS ), but that tweed is just beautiful.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Nice outfit (I can even abide the PS ), but that tweed is just beautiful.


It is nice! I don't even mind the too gorges and narrow lapels. Balance is a balm.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> It is nice! I don't even mind the too gorges and narrow lapels. Balance is a balm.


"Balance is a balm." Nice.


----------



## London380sl

Any idea of the make? I've got a Pal Zileri jacket very similar to that pattern.


----------



## Flanderian

London380sl said:


> Any idea of the make? I've got a Pal Zileri jacket very similar to that pattern.


If to me, sorry, I do not.

But the cut suggests to me it's likely American or British RTW. Lapels too narrow, and gorges too high for Italian, or elsewhere.


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## Flanderian

Another summer tweed. Similar hue to the last, and beautifully done cloth, cut and ensemble!


----------



## Peak and Pine

London380sl said:


> Any idea of the make? I've got a Pal Zileri jacket very similar to that pattern.


_Everybody_ makes a jacket in that pattern and everyone who posts here regularly sticks one of these up on a regular basis. It's a brown brown h'bone and, the starting point for all things tweed. Pass one up to the boy two above, the one with the giant tarantula on his head. He'll pair it up with stuff that'll make your eyeballs squirm. No intent to disparage the young man or the brown brown tweed, just that one is ho-hum, the other is hip hop and only one has personality.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Innnnnnnnteressting. An urbane, neé rakish tweed. Definitely not the sort of thing His Lordship pots pheasant in. It looks more, shall we say, poacherly?


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## Fading Fast

Too many stripes IMO.









And this one is probably a dupe (I've seen it somewhere before anyway), but an interesting pattern.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Too many stripes IMO.
> View attachment 45177
> 
> 
> And this one is probably a dupe (I've seen it somewhere before anyway), but an interesting pattern.
> View attachment 45178


I agree with your assessment on both counts. In the first pic it appears the yong gentleman trying too hard to match strioes and has indeeed lost sight of the overall effects of his efforts. In the second picture, he looks familiar in all that tweed finery, but more importantly, he looks uncomfortable....kind of like three pounds stuffed in a two pound sack.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Too many stripes IMO.
> View attachment 45177
> 
> 
> And this one is probably a dupe (I've seen it somewhere before anyway), but an interesting pattern.
> View attachment 45178


Yes, though I like the bottom tweed very well.

The 1" lapels, not so much.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

This is obviously a dual post.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Peak and Pine

Posted as much for the presentation as the jacket...


----------



## Peak and Pine

Ditto...


----------



## Fading Fast

90% sure this ⇩ is a dupe, but stumbled across it in my pics and, since it's such a nice coat, thought I'd post in case it had slipped by unposted.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 45226
> 
> 
> 90% sure this ⇩ is a dupe, but stumbled across it in my pics and, since it's such a nice coat, thought I'd post in case it had slipped by unposted.
> View attachment 45227


Love the coat and jacket on the bottom! 👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> Posted as much for the presentation as the jacket...
> View attachment 45218


And I LOVE the jacket!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 45245


Great example of a tie having enough "heft" or texture to stand up to a heavy Tweed jacket.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 45272


Looks a bit like Richard Gere's younger brother....or he could be! Seriously, could that be his son, Homer? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Looks a bit like Richard Gere's younger brother....or he could be! Seriously, could that be his son, Homer? :icon_scratch:


My one Richard Gere story.

I ran a team that brought a new commodity investment vehicle to market around 2011 and we held a breakfast and "ring the opening bell" ceremony at the NYSE for several of the companies involved. Owing to the size of the NYSE's balcony that overlooks the floor (where we "ring" the bell - you actually push a button), the number of participants is (from memory) about 25.

One company - a commodity investment firm - asked if they could bring Richard Gere because he was filming a movie about Wall Street arbitrage (https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1764183/?ref_=nm_flmg_act_11) and wanted to see one of these meetings to "get a feel for how Wall Street people act, carry themselves, etc. when 'pulling off a large deal'."

My response, "Yes, yes, yes, yes and yes." I'm shallow and wanted to meet him.

Since the breakfast has a "mingle" aspect to it (held in one of the ridiculously beautiful partner's dining rooms - picture something out of "Downton Abbey"), I talked with him a bit, so it wasn't the usual shake hands and move along.

He couldn't have been nicer to chat with one on one (asked me if I wanted a picture - encouraged me when I demurred - my girlfriend was insanely excited when I texted that one to her even though I ignored her request to ask him if he was dating anyone).

Then, at breakfast and the ceremony, he was incredibly humble and nice, thanking us for letting him be there and repeating how he didn't want to be in the way or take the focus off our achievement. Maybe it was all canned, but it felt sincere and was the right thing to say.

And, yes, he is ridiculously good looking. He was in his early '60s and handsome as heck. I was surprised as he was only (my guess) about 5'8", but incredibly well proportioned. Compared to the rest of us schlubs, he looked and carried himself ten-times better.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> My one Richard Gere story.
> 
> I ran a team that brought a new commodity investment vehicle to market around 2011 and we held a breakfast and "ring the opening bell" ceremony at the NYSE for several of the companies involved. Owing to the size of the NYSE's balcony that overlooks the floor (where we "ring" the bell - you actually push a button), the number of participants is (from memory) about 25.
> 
> One company - a commodity investment firm - asked if they could bring Richard Gere because he was filming a movie about Wall Street arbitrage (https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1764183/?ref_=nm_flmg_act_11) and wanted to see one of these meetings to "get a feel for how Wall Street people act, carry themselves, etc. when 'pulling off a large deal'."
> 
> My response, "Yes, yes, yes, yes and yes." I'm shallow and wanted to meet him.
> 
> Since the breakfast has a "mingle" aspect to it (held in one of the ridiculously beautiful partner's dining rooms - picture something out of "Downton Abbey"), I talked with him a bit, so it wasn't the usual shake hands and move along.
> 
> He couldn't have been nicer to chat with one on one (asked me if I wanted a picture - encouraged me when I demurred - my girlfriend was insanely excited when I texted that one to her even though I ignored her request to ask him if he was dating anyone).
> 
> Then, at breakfast and the ceremony, he was incredibly humble and nice, thanking us for letting him be there and repeating how he didn't want to be in the way or take the focus off our achievement. Maybe it was all canned, but it felt sincere and was the right thing to say.
> 
> And, yes, he is ridiculously good looking. He was in his early '60s and handsome as heck. I was surprised as he was only (my guess) about 5'8", but incredibly well proportioned. Compared to the rest of us schlubs, he looked and carried himself ten-times better.


Cool story! And if I'm not mistaken, he's lent himself to some truly good causes over the years.


----------



## Fading Fast

Cross post from the Ralph thread. Love the suit.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 45313


I really like the tweed shoes but can't figure out how to care for them.


----------



## Flanderian

A tweed pattern less often seen, which despite its simplicity can be very handsome when done well, the diagonal tweed -


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

Crop them sleeves there, mister, and if you need a cane you probably should be looking straight ahead, nevertheless, a full Harris Tweed in a fat cut and the ever-popular yet over-used, black/gray h'bone. Still...


----------



## Fading Fast

Presented without comment.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Presented without comment.
> View attachment 45343
> View attachment 45344


Nice rigs, particularly the one in the upper photo, but the models should take their hands out of their pockets. The guy in the lower photo looks to be more the hillbilly that even I can claim to be. :icon_scratch:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Presented without comment.
> View attachment 45343
> View attachment 45344


Oh, you can comment! 

Who did 'em!? Your silence implies complicity.  Dare you reintroduce the infamous Bookster to this forum? 

Frankly, both are quite nice, and the cloth of each a very handsome tweed. 👍

Like Eagle, the top is pretty close to my sweet spot. And that each is slightly different in cut suggests different makers, irrespective of a likely single seller. And while I'm sure that's not unique, this was a characteristic of the original Bookster. Though I could be entirely wrong, and this is simply be two over-plaid tweed suits by a common maker for which different details had been specified,

The top suit has more generous lapels and a generally more relaxed appearance, though neither suit is too snug. The more generous details are my preference, but particularly helpful in tweed, IMHO. The trousers are even a bigger difference -. . . in addition to the deeper cuffs on the top suit, which again looks particularly nice in tweed, the legs are cut differently. These two suits are one of the best illustrations between the common straight-leg cut of the bottom suit, in which there is little taper from knee to cuff, and a more generously cut thigh which is then tapered all the way down, which is my preference. Those at top look far more elegant and graceful, IMO.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 45356


Nice!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian

The stuff. How about a Donegal herringbone?


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Hardly see those anymore

⇩ If you go bold (large scale, in this case) on a pattern, I think doing it in a monotone way balances its "loudness" out nicely.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Hardly see those anymore
> 
> ⇩ If you go bold (large scale, in this case) on a pattern, I think doing it in a monotone way balances its "loudness" out nicely.
> View attachment 45420


A mighty, and handsome tweed!

I'd wish only that it were slightly more generous of cut.


----------



## Flanderian

Great tweed! Should talk with his tailor into using it to make jackets that fit.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> A mighty, and handsome tweed!
> 
> I'd wish only that it were slightly more generous of cut.


Agreed, even trying to adjust to the new sizing norms, it looks off to me. The '60s had a better sense of scale and proportion when it did skinny clothes.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Agreed, even trying to adjust to the new sizing norms, it looks off to me. The '60s had a better sense of scale and proportion when it did skinny clothes.


Very much so, IMO.


----------



## never behind

I bought this tweed jacket off eBay. Nice medium weight 3/2 roll. Green herringbone with a slight yellowish base. I can't really place the color. A really ugly lining though. Ha


----------



## Fading Fast

Might be a dupe, but if not, didn't want to miss this very nice Flanderian tan herringbone.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Might be a dupe, but if not, didn't want to miss this very nice Flanderian tan herringbone.
> View attachment 45482


Great jacket! 👍

(But I wish he wore it better. 😢)


----------



## Flanderian

Tweed bush jacket -


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Great jacket! 👍
> 
> (But I wish he wore it better. 😢)


These are the times that try men's [sartorial] souls.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 45511


Oughta move this to the Sportcoat and Turtleneck thread.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Oughta move this to the Sportcoat and Turtleneck thread.


O-tay!

Edit: Can't find it. Where the heck is it!? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Oldsarge

Here


----------



## Peak and Pine

Not saying I like what follows though maybe I do, but will say this, I do like the presentation...










On reflection, I think I like everything you just saw, if you didn't see the scarf.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Well, isn't this something...


----------



## Peak and Pine

The pair. o'pics above were posted for general tweed interest. Scrambling now to find a third with which to make believe I me myself could and would actially wear...


----------



## Peak and Pine

Yeah sure. Especially the socks. (Actually, that guy looks somrthing like me, 20 years ago. Please continue.


----------



## Peak and Pine

This. I would wear this. But I wouldn't wear my pants on my shoulder like that. I really like this. If this were in a store that was closed because of covid, I would wear masks all over my body and beg to be let in. Or wait until dark and just break in.


----------



## Peak and Pine

And this. I would wear this, just like this with a white open collar shirt. And a double shot of Aqua Velva. And a beanie with a pin wheel on top. And a six week ticket to Betty Ford.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

When you run out of closet space for your tweeds...


----------



## Peak and Pine

When you like the look of the covered shoulder of a shooting jacket, but you like to shoot two rifles at a time, this....


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 45539


Nice!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Nice!


I really like it too. It looks like a perfect go-to for almost anything sport coat. And one that could take a beating.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I really like it too. It looks like a perfect go-to for almost anything sport coat. And one that could take a beating.


Relaxed jackets like that fit into my life far more readily than the dressy variety. While it would be handsome with a tie, it's just as handsome with other options.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Relaxed jackets like that fit into my life far more readily than the dressy variety. While it would be handsome with a tie, it's just as handsome with other options.


It's the same with me. I have very, very little need for a dressy sport coat. Most of the time that I'm wearing a sport coat, it is by choice not the need of the situation, so the more casual the better.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> It's the same with me. I have very, very little need for a dressy sport coat. Most of the time that I'm wearing a sport coat, it is by choice not the need of the situation, so the more casual the better.


About 20 years ago, LL Bean used to sell very casually constructed, rustic sport jackets of inexpensive tweed with quilted insulation. They were intended as dressier outwear, and would likely look out of place with most ties. But they were actually quite handsome with a turtleneck, or nice scarf and sport shirt, as well as being warm enough to wear from car to home, or on a warmer winter day with complete comfort. I can't recall why I got out of the habit of wearing them, and gave them away. Now wish I hadn't.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> About 20 years ago, LL Bean used to sell very casually constructed, rustic sport jackets of inexpensive tweed with quilted insulation. They were intended as dressier outwear, and would likely look out of place with most ties. But they were actually quite handsome with a turtleneck, or nice scarf and sport shirt, as well as being warm enough to wear from car to home, or on a warmer winter day with complete comfort. I can't recall why I got out of the habit of wearing them, and gave them away. Now wish I hadn't.


I'm pretty sure I remember them - and wanted one - but they were cut way too big for my frame, if we're thinking about the same ones.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Sorry to break up the klatch, guys, but moving on with the pics...
.

.









Anyone know what the stick seat things like this tweedster's using are called? He looks a little heavy for such.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I'm pretty sure I remember them - and wanted one - but they were cut way too big for my frame, if we're thinking about the same ones.


Probably. Bean's stuff used to generally be cut very generously. (But fortunately(?) I am as well. )


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Relaxed jackets like that fit into my life far more readily than the dressy variety. While it would be handsome with a tie, it's just as handsome with other options.


My only quibble is the ticket pocket. Slightly jarring for some reason.


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> Sorry to break up the klatch, guys, but moving on with the pics...
> .
> 
> .
> View attachment 45554
> 
> 
> Anyone know what the stick seat things like this tweedster's using are called? He looks a little heavy for such.


I know this sounds too logical to be true, but it's called a 'seat-stick' and supposedly useful for driven bird shoots, watching golf (does anyone actually _watch_ golf?) and other activities of intermittent activity.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> My only quibble is the ticket pocket. Slightly jarring for some reason.


Member Balmoral, sadly now noted most by his absence, described them as "detestable." And henceforward, they became best know as detestable pockets! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Possibly a dupe, and technically not really a tweed, but very handsome and certainly in that character. W. W. Chan of vintage Sportex cloth! 👍


----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> Sorry to break up the klatch, guys, but moving on with the pics...
> .
> 
> .
> View attachment 45554
> 
> 
> Anyone know what the stick seat things like this tweedster's using are called? He looks a little heavy for such.


I'm not sure what it's called, other than perhaps a field seat, but I've got one that I purchased many years ago, hidden away somewhere in this hoard! :icon_scratch: LOL.


----------



## eagle2250

Is it srill considered a hoard if the creator can find a randomly selected item in less than 15 minutes?

TaDa!










It's a handy little gizmo...if you entend the seat post to it's full length and fold the seat, the seat makes for a fairly reasonable walking stick! Not bad...huh?


----------



## Peak and Pine

Flanderian said:


> Possibly a dupe, and technically not really a tweed, but very handsome and certainly in that character. W. W. Chan of vintage Sportex cloth! 👍












^

A true shadow plaid.
Seldom seen like this, more often in flannel shirts and vintage mackinaws. I like the idea, but not the dull colors. Mine is in oatmeal and blue and came from a multi-year hunt on the thrift sites. Poshmark came through. Lose the suede accents here, the shadowing is enough.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> Is it srill considered a hoard if the creator can find a randomly selected item in less than 15 minutes?
> 
> TaDa!
> 
> View attachment 45586
> 
> 
> It's a handy little gizmo...if you entend the seat post to it's full length and fold the seat, the seat makes for a fairly reasonable walking stick! Not bad...huh?


Or a weapon to stave off hot, young women! irate:



An elegant and useful accessory! 👍


----------



## Peak and Pine

Flanderian said:


> Member Balmoral, sadly now noted most by his absence, described them as "detestable." And henceforward, they became best know as detestable pockets! 👍


There is no member named _Balmoral. _You may mean _Balfour_. So, he was able to slap a negative name on an age-old jacket accessory and it stuck with everyone? I must have missed that. A ticket pocket is very handy for a cell phone, a debit card kept seperately from the wallet or the 1/2 ounce size of Purell. They're also conveniently located for the left-handed. Me.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Searching for stuff deemed age appropriate, and with a style compatible to my closeted yearnings, I come up with this...









.
It's corduroy in the main, tweed in the minor. All seperates. Nothing matches, everything matches, as I understand matching. Well worn, not worn out. Interesting shoes which I may not get. I could wear all this. He looks tall. I am not. He resembles the Senator from my state, Angus King. You may known of him. Angus and I could wear that getup. This guy and Angus both sport the 'stache. Not me. Ugh. But I think the attire pictured would look good on the pitched-forward set even without one.


----------



## StephenRG

Oldsarge said:


> I know this sounds too logical to be true, but it's called a 'seat-stick' and supposedly useful for driven bird shoots, watching golf (does anyone actually _watch_ golf?) and other activities of intermittent activity.


In Britain it's called a shooting stick - the name given in the US to a gun support.

https://www.purdey.com/adjustable-leather-shooting-stick


----------



## Oldsarge

StephenRG said:


> In Britain it's called a shooting stick - the name given in the US to a gun support.
> 
> https://www.purdey.com/adjustable-leather-shooting-stick


Mm-hm. Another example of Britain and the USA, two countries separated by a common language.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

StephenRG said:


> In Britain it's called a shooting stick - the name given in the US to a gun support.
> 
> https://www.purdey.com/adjustable-leather-shooting-stick


Quoting the late, great Harry Carey, "holy cow," I never paid anywhere near that amount for my "shooting stick!" LOL.


----------



## Oldsarge

Another case of people willing to pay more for the privilege of paying more.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 45598
> View attachment 45599


Beautiful cloth and tailoring, very well worn! The richness of colors in the 2nd is remarkable.

I only wish they'd put the gorges back where they belong, it's discordant in an otherwise beautiful jacket.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Beautiful cloth and tailoring, very well worn! The richness of colors in the 2nd is remarkable.
> 
> I only wish they'd put the gorges back where they belong, it's discordant in an otherwise beautiful jacket.


Agreed. Also, I thought the 2nd one is a good example of a denim shirt working well with tweed and a sport coat even if the shirt's collar is a bit wonky.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Agreed. Also, I thought the 2nd one is a good example of a denim shirt working well with tweed and a sport coat even if the shirt's collar is a bit wonky.


Me too! I like and wear denim shirts with ties and tweed, but those I wear are bit more finely made to, IMO, look better with a tie. Nothing wrong with the shirt depicted, it's a handsome sport shirt, just not good for a tie.

Edit: Both tweeds are lovely, but I'm enraptured by the bottom. In addition to the lovely colors, and the texture, the weight is a a rarity. I don't think you're going to find cloth like this RTW.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 45645


Great tweed, and I like how it's worn! 👍


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Great tweed, and I like how it's worn! 👍


It seemed a good choice based on our conversation yesterday.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

Gorge is too high, and a collar pin on an unbuttoned BD? Seriously?


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> Gorge is too high, and a collar pin on an unbuttoned BD? Seriously?


The collar pin on the BD shirt is something that started to pop up in ads a few years back (maybe even more than a few, I don't really remember). It - as is so much in clothing ads - seems so forced and silly that you'd think it would have died by now, but it still pops up in ads. That said, I've never seen someone do it IRL...yet.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 45689


A lot of nice tweed, but most tweed-on-tweed doesn't work for my eye. But this is close.



Oldsarge said:


> Gorge is too high, and a collar pin on an unbuttoned BD? Seriously?


Bingo! :icon_cheers: And add the unbuttoned top button of a the tailored vest, I-gent sprez de rigueur. 



Fading Fast said:


> The collar pin on the BD shirt is something that started to pop up in ads a few years back (maybe even more than a few, I don't really remember). It - as is so much in clothing ads - seems so forced and silly that you'd think it would have died by now, but it still pops up in ads. That said, I've never seen someone do it IRL...yet.


Forced and silly pretty well covers it. The point of a departure is to improve the overall appearance, not detract from it, a principle with which contemporary art directors who first air novelty entirely for its own sake are not capable of grasping. And an untutored young man sees it, it's novel,, it's "edgy" and grownups hate it, so what's not to love!? :loveyou:


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> ...Forced and silly pretty well covers it. The point of a departure is to improve the overall appearance, not detract from it, a principle with which contemporary art directors who first air novelty entirely for its own sake are not capable of grasping. And untutored young man sees it, it's novel,, it's "edgy" and grownups hate it, so what's not to love!? :loveyou:


I think that stems in part from the same problem some writers have if they've never learn the basic rules and guidelines of grammar. As many an English teacher will tell you, you first need to learn the basic grammar construct before you can break some of its rules. What they rarely say, but what I think they mean is that to have a sense of when breaking a rule for style makes sense, you have to have a strong understanding of the rules themselves.

So, for example, there's nothing wrong with a writer using slang - ain't, kinda, yup - for effect, but only if that writer knows when and why he/she is doing it and is consciously doing it for impact The same with dressing. You first need to understand the "rules" and have an intuitive understanding of why they exist, before you can play around with them in an intelligent way.

Unfortunately, many young (and, now, middle-aged) men don't really know the "rules" and why they exist, so they don't have a sense of how to "break" them in an effective way.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I think that stems in part from the same problem some writers have if they've never learn the basic rules and guidelines of grammar. As many an English teacher will tell you, you first need to learn the basic grammar construct before you can break some of its rules. What they rarely say, but what I think they mean is that to have a sense of when breaking a rule for style makes sense, you have to have a strong understanding of the rules themselves.
> 
> So, for example, there's nothing wrong with a writer using slang - ain't, kinda, yup - for effect, but only if that writer knows when and why he/she is doing it and is consciously doing it for impact The same with dressing. You first need to understand the "rules" and have an intuitive understanding of why they exist, before you can play around with them in an intelligent way.
> 
> Unfortunately, many young (and, now, middle-aged) men don't really know the "rules" and why they exist, so they don't have a sense of how to "break" them in an effective way.


Yup!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

I'm reposting a pic from early this morning because I want to discuss it further and point out the folly of posting pics that are in so tight that little can be told of style or fit...










...as in the case of this one. Nothing can be told save texture and color and there are wheels for that. The bemoaning of the top button of a vest left undone, which I don't get, the bemoaning, works only if you're talking about a vest. The one in the picture is not a vest. It's a tweed jacket and you can tell that by the buton spacing and the way the outer coat rides up over it. And it is an outer coat and not a jacket, its thickness and position on the neck bespeaks this and we can debate this, b_ut we wouldn't have to if we stopped posting pics in so damn tight that we can't tell a vest from a jacket. _And that will never happen, so it may be time for a differen't kind of tweed thread. (I'm working on it.)

About the gorge here. It seems high because of the camera angle. Maybe. I know you know what a gorge is, but take it deeper. It's not just a notch, it's the seam joint where collar joins lapel and so a high gorge means a longer lapel and a shorter collar and for practical reasons this is to be preferred if the lapels are ever to be closed. Ditto with the bottom button. It must be placed so that it can be used. And while I understand that fashion scorns both, practicality doesn't. I use both. Form from function, etc.

As far as using a collar pin with an unbuttoned button-down shirt, this strikes as no more egregious than wearing braces with empty belt loops (which is to say, slightly egregious, both). Generally speaking, I don't care for this outfit. I tire of browns all around. Send it to Bruce Boyer, Bruce likes the browns, have never seen him attired otherwise.


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## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

I just caught a promo for the Hitchcock movie "The Birds" and noticed this tweed sport coat and olive, kinda, cargo pants combo. It's a neat version of a sport coat with not-traditional sport coat pants.

Then, when I went to finds a pic or two to post, I stumbled on this article all about the outfit:

https://bamfstyle.com/2016/02/22/birds-mitch5-tweedcargo/















You might also notice, in the second pic, a pretty famous women's outfit - the green suit Tippi Hedren wears all weekend in the movie.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 45711


Chuckle. Somebody took something from my post and will take what I can get.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Harris Tweed. I think it looks a bit outlandish because there's nothing on the mannequin 'cept white set against a white background and you're forced to stare at jacket and vest, but were it on me, the in-your-face aspect would be softened by the attention shared with grizzled features, nose like a goshawk and million-dollar smile. Fantasy land: this would make a swell 4th of July outfit if the South had won.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 45711


G. The Bruce, always stylish!



Fading Fast said:


> I just caught a promo for the Hitchcock movie "The Birds" and noticed this tweed sport coat and olive, kinda, cargo pants combo. It's a neat version of a sport coat with not-traditional sport coat pants.
> 
> Then, when I went to finds a pic or two to post, I stumbled on this article all about the outfit:
> 
> https://bamfstyle.com/2016/02/22/birds-mitch5-tweedcargo/
> View attachment 45713
> View attachment 45714
> 
> You might also notice, in the second pic, a pretty famous women's outfit - the green suit Tippi Hedren wears all weekend in the movie.


I recall watching the film in theaters as a teenager and thinking, "I wouldn't mind dressing like that guy!"

But then, this guy happened, and it was game over!


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ You have several years on me, but I do remember "discovering" those early Bond films on TV when I was growing up in the '70s and thinking that man had style. And not just his clothes.

I posted pics ( #1 ) from last year when I saw one of the original Bond Aston Martins at Sothebys (they let even commoners like me in to see it). The car is, possibly, cooler in person than on TV. Some things disappoint in person, but not that car.

⇩ Another one with the silly collar bar on a BD combo (might be a dupe - the longer this thread gets, the harder it is to keep it all straight).


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ You have several years on me, but I do remember "discovering" those early Bond films on TV when I was growing up in the '70s and thinking that man had style. And not just his clothes.
> 
> I posted pics ( #1 ) from last year when I saw one of the original Bond Aston Martins at Sothebys (they let even commoners like me in to see it). The car is, possibly, cooler in person than on TV. Some things disappoint in person, but not that car.
> 
> ⇩ Another one with the silly collar bar on a BD combo (might be a dupe - the longer this thread gets, the harder it is to keep it all straight).
> 
> View attachment 45752


Needs a bigger watch too!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

Never let not understanding what something is get in the way of liking it....


----------



## Fading Fast

Cross post with the Ralph thread. Not sure it's Tweed.









In case it ⇧ isn't Tweed, then this one ⇩ from (my guess) Ben Silver looks like it is.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Cross post with the Ralph thread. Not sure it's Tweed.
> View attachment 45801
> 
> 
> In case it ⇧ isn't Tweed, then this one ⇩ from (my guess) Ben Silver looks like it is.
> View attachment 45804


Beautiful tweed in the bottom picture, very nicely composed. Frankly, not wild about Nick Hilton's cuts, or their tenacious clinging to narrow ties and lapels, but the materials are lovely.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

Reposting a picture put up earlier today to discuss further.....










Because of the position of the camera, like a foot from the subject, you can't tell if the guy is standing or seated. If sitting, then buttoned coats do bell out like that. If standing, then ladies and gents, we have before us a truly awful fit, including crinkley shoulders. So, is the object with pics like this just to show a fabric swatch? If so, okay. More than that, not okay and the tweed posters here might consider treating this thread as if it were a clothier's site and the onlookers who visit are buyers who _ want to see a complete picture in order to fully judge or appreciate._ Without more complete shots this thread borders on the worthless to me.

While the context is confusing and I may not be matching words with pictures, @Flanderian seems to be saying that the lapels and tie in the picture above are too slim. ??? Clarification needed because I'm not getting that part.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 45830


Hard to tell from the pic, but if that is an ancient madder tie, kudos, as the "heaviness" of those goes so well with tweed.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 45862


Very nice! Though I'd probably elect a sweater with slightly more color.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Very nice! Though I'd probably elect a sweater with slightly more color.


The shirt says Flanderian to me - love its texture (holds up well to Tweed). Surprised, though, that someone took a picture (looks staged) with the shirt collar's point curling in like that. I always hated when that happened as it's too far our for the stay to help and, sometimes, it happened with expensive shirt.

Is there a name for the (what looks to me like a strong Oxford Cloth) pattern or texture of the shirt?


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> The shirt says Flanderian to me - love its texture (holds up well to Tweed). Surprised, though, that someone took a picture (looks staged) with the shirt collar's point curling in like that. I always hated when that happened as it's too far our for the stay to help and, sometimes, it happened with expensive shirt.
> 
> Is there a name for the (what looks to me like a strong Oxford Cloth) pattern or texture of the shirt?


I still iron my own shirts. And with a half century of experience, flatter myself that I've developed some small degree of skill. This particular problem seems dealt with by the way I've evolved to iron collars. I always use a steam iron with the burst of steam feature. And by ironing the back of the collar first, and ironing it entirely flat, before ironing the front, I've not had the problem reoccur.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## ItalianStyle

Nice, but the combination of tweed (and the other 'rural signals') and cuff links just seems odd to me...
But I do like the shirt...


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 45908


👍 👍 :happy:

Though I might only wish a bit of added harmonious color contrast between the tweed and tie. I'd want to pick out one of the lovely colors of the shirt.



ItalianStyle said:


> Nice, but the combination of tweed (and the other 'rural signals') and cuff links just seems odd to me...
> But I do like the shirt...


Well then, ya' gotta get links with a sporting/rustic motif!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> 👍 👍 :happy:
> 
> Though I might only wish a bit of added harmonious color contrast between the tweed and tie. I'd want to pick out one of the lovely colors of the shirt.
> 
> Well then, ya' gotta get links with a sporting/rustic motif!
> 
> View attachment 45924


I assume, at some point, cufflinks were simply a solution to a problem - how to close a cuff. While, today, they've become more jewelry than anything else, they still serve a function. Hence, in "the old days" and in places where Tweed was worn for warmth/function/weather, do we know that tweed suits weren't paired with shirts needing cufflinks? To be sure, those cufflinks might have been simple affairs (I have some very simple old ones), but it's not intuitive to me that tweed and cufflinks are antithetical.

I can produce no examples off the top of my head, but I'd swear I've seen pictures and movies from the first half of the 20th Century where Tweed wearing farmers, laborers, etc., have on shirts needing cufflinks (but, again, I have no evidence to support that and only "feel" that I remember it).

@ItalianStyle - all that said, I get your point - fancy cufflinks on a fancy shirt doesn't really align with a rough tweed practicality. My question is not a rebuke to your point, but an add on.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I assume, at some point, cufflinks were simply a solution to a problem - how to close a cuff. While, today, they've become more jewelry than anything else, they still serve a function. Hence, in "the old days" and in places where Tweed was worn for warmth/function/weather, do we know that tweed suits weren't paired with shirts needing cufflinks? To be sure, those cufflinks might have been simple affairs (I have some very simple old ones), but it's not intuitive to me that tweed and cufflinks are antithetical.
> 
> I can produce no examples off the top of my head, but I'd swear I've seen pictures and movies from the first half of the 20th Century where Tweed wearing farmers, laborers, etc., have on shirts needing cufflinks (but, again, I have no evidence to support that and only "feel" that I remember it).
> 
> @ItalianStyle - all that said, I get your point - fancy cufflinks on a fancy shirt doesn't really align with a rough tweed practicality. My question is not a rebuke to your point, but an add on.


Since fancy country dress among a particular English social strata was once the norm for certain occasions, I have little doubt, as you suggest, that they were also worn by those less exalted when not out herding, etc. And links in plain metal, leather, or even wood, have in the past done nicely for such circumstances.

I once had my shirtmaker make a shirt like the one depicted with a similar brighter check and French cuffs and thoroughly enjoyed wearing it with more rustic dress and appropriate links.

Reverse carved, hand-painted links (Sometimes called intaglio.) are a fetish of mine. But I would hardly think to see such a fine pair mounted in 18k gold out in the field.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Did I already post this?


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 45949
> 
> 
> Did I already post this?


I think so, but you'll get no complaints from me about re-posting those cute guys. Also, rocks and glass houses notes this serial re-poster. Hardly a crime and hard to keep track as this thread expands.

We bought our Springer a fisherman's sweater a few years back, but I'd bet he like a Tweed coat too (he's a bit of a clotheshorse).


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> Did I already post this?


You posted the two on the left, but the one on the right was a raccoon. If memory serves. It's hot in Maine today and I'm also hoping to be served a Mohlson.

Aaaah, here it is. Gulp. Memory returns. It was two raccoons.


----------



## Peak and Pine

No. It was one dog, one raccoon...and a cat.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Diner tweed.









I don't much care for this. Too much brown, Dr. Seuss socks and I think the collar's unbuttoned 'neath the tie. Great ham and eggs tho (since consumed).


----------



## Peak and Pine

Kinda tweed. This is a Pendleton Topster in a seldom seen non-plaid. I own this jacket tho the photo is stock. Proudly. And just as proudly, I own no ties that look like that.










Quote Reply


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> Kinda tweed. This is a Pendleton Topster in a seldom seen non-plaid. I own this jacket tho the photo is stock. Proudly. And just as proudly, I own no ties that look like that.
> 
> View attachment 45956
> 
> 
> Quote Reply


Well done. Did you get it new, back in the day, or did you score it on eBay?


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> Well done. Did you get it new, back in the day, or did you score it on eBay?


I have two from when I was a boy, Xmas presents from my mom, rediscovered when I returned to Maine in 2000 to care for her in her final year and stayed on. I had spent the previous 12 years in Washington, DC in advertising. My return to Maine coincided with the birth of eBay. Coming across the boyhood Pendys in the attic, both red, my least favorite color in clothes, I went on line to find a green one. And then someone should have stopped me. Over the next three years, when they still were cheap, shipping too, I amassed over 40 Topsters. All now back in the attic and only two ever worn by me. The picture that prompted your question is a favorite. One of two shadow striped ones. The other's grey.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 45974


Nice jacket! But a bit too snug worn over that sweater.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Nice jacket! But a bit too snug worn over that sweater.


Agreed, but good color combo in the outfit.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Agreed, but good color combo in the outfit.


Yes, very nice! 👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

I would like this one much more with out the PS.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 46030
> 
> I would like this one much more with out the PS.


Great tweed, but much of the rest, OH MY! 

I object to, in no particular order, skinny lapels, skinny tie, chest bulging away from torso and that truly horrendous choice of PS! ic12337:

But then, this *is* GQ!

And to think it once looked instead like this -


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Great tweed, but much of the rest, OH MY!
> 
> I object to, in no particular order, skinny lapels, skinny tie, chest bulging away from torso and that truly horrendous choice of PS! ic12337:
> 
> But then, this *is* GQ!
> 
> And to think it once looked instead like this -
> 
> View attachment 46041


Not the best, but the skinny lapel and tie has a "Mad Men" '60s aesthetic to me, but the PS is jarring.

And that's a beautiful page of clothing.


----------



## Fading Fast

Hard to tell from the pic (best I could find), but this is an awesome Tweed suit from the 1933 movie "King Kong." The suit looks like it jumped out of the pages of Apparel Arts (note the reverse-pleat breast pocket - if that's what it is called).









There are a lot of Trad clothes in "King Kong"  #310


----------



## Flanderian

And now for something different -


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Hard to tell from the pic (best I could find), but this is an awesome Tweed suit from the 1933 movie "King Kong." The suit looks like it jumped out of the pages of Apparel Arts (note the reverse-pleat breast pocket - if that's what it is called).
> View attachment 46055
> 
> 
> There are a lot of Trad clothes in "King Kong"  #310


A double barreled suit jacket! :icon_cheers:

But they over-coated his sleeve length.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> Note the reverse-pleat breast pocket - if that's what it is called.


Gusset.

The following are my definitions and may not jive with standard practice. Whatever.

In order for a *pleat* to be a pleat it must be open on one end, as in skirts and curtains. If it's completely sewn shut it's a *dart*. If it is sewn shut top and bottom, but open in the middle, it is a* gusset*, the best example of which is a bi-swing (action back) jacket. The pocket on the picture you've posted actually consists of two pleats facing each other and sewn shut top and bottom, another kind of gusset. This is sometimes seen at 30" or more on the backs of vintage, or current bespoke, overcoats.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Maybe, but probably not...


----------



## Peak and Pine

If Germany in the 30s had not made this sort of look militarily scary, I could probably buy into this...


----------



## Peak and Pine

"_Oops, we forgot the pockets, quick stick something on there, anything_."


----------



## Fading Fast

Here's an fun one I stumbled upon. A Tweed sweater, if I'm reading the copy correctly:


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> A double barreled suit jacket! :icon_cheers:
> 
> But they over-coated his sleeve length.


Agreed on the sleeve length, but can't you see it on the pages of Apparel Arts or the Esquire pics you used to post (with the sleeve length properly tailored)?

Obviously, you can't tell in a B&W movie, but I bet that fabric had some fantastic speckles of color in it.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Here's an fun one I stumbled upon. A Tweed sweater, if I'm reading the copy correctly:
> View attachment 46071


Nice! 👍


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> Agreed on the sleeve length, but can't you see it on the pages of Apparel Arts ..


No, not really. It's a stop-action still from a creaky old movie so it may not be fair to judge, but it doesn't look good and the sleeve length would kill it even if the rest rose to the occasion. Zooming In raises more questions. The rise of the pants appear to reach the breast pocket which can't be right. And there's a vest or something peeking above the top button, but the bottom of whatever it is can't be seen where it should be seen which is at the point where the jacket's quarters splay open. All this may be on purpose to fit the nature of the character, not familar with King Kong, but the outfit, with fang-collared shirt and working stiff's hat, does not strike as aspirational.


----------



## Flanderian




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## Fading Fast

⇧ Heck of a good collar roll.


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## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Heck of a good collar roll.
> 
> View attachment 46098


Nicd!

Looks like something I'd enjoy wearing! :loveyou:


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## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Nicd!
> 
> Looks like something I'd enjoy wearing! :loveyou:


I don't own shirts like that, but I thought it worked pretty well with that suit.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I don't own shirts like that, but I thought it worked pretty well with that suit.


Tartans and tweeds are like PB&J, and club/emblem ties one of the easiest and best choices to pair with them, IMHO. Also like solid knits, harmonious solid tweed ties, an harmonious Irish poplin stripe, etc.


----------



## Fading Fast

Once again, TCM provides some nice Tweeds, but finding good pics has been hard.

These are from the 1939 movie "Love Affair."

This looks like a twill-weave Tweed sport coat with a lot of speckling (it looked that way on screen, but it's impossible to see those details in the pics). Also, you'll note its half-belted back. I believe @Matt S taught me to spot twill Tweeds.

















Also, not sure what this overcoat is, but it is cool:


----------



## Flanderian

Cleav the immaculate! -


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Once again, TCM provides some nice Tweeds, but finding good pics has been hard.
> 
> These are from the 1939 movie "Love Affair."
> 
> This looks like a twill-weave Tweed sport coat with a lot of speckling (it looked that way on screen, but it's impossible to see those details in the pics). Also, you'll note its half-belted back. I believe @Matt S taught me to spot twill Tweeds.
> View attachment 46114
> 
> View attachment 46115
> 
> 
> Also, not sure what this overcoat is, but it is cool:
> View attachment 46117


Great tweeds and great clothes, all! :loveyou:

And these are clothes you could live in, and move in, built and fitted for all-day comfort.

More elaborate back treatments were fashionable in the era, but also offered a lot of practical advantages in more casual jackets and suits. I think that the Esquire of era may have coined the semi-sport for clothing intended to bridge the gap between business and country life.

The top jacket, while IMO, strictly a country jacket, has some features that seeped into the semi-sport genre. The half belt, and the back yoke with a shirred seam in lieu of a bi-swing back or inverted center pleat. All these devices, in addition to visual interest offer added comfort and freedom of movement. I have a couple jackets with bi-swing backs and find myself drawn to them in part because they're more akin to wearing a sweater. Paul Stuart for many years offered a model they termed their Pivot jacket with leather elbow patches. It featured minimal soft construction, a half belt in rear, and a bi-swing back. And while paired down from the '30's garments, I expect also provided significant improvements in comfort.

Love the bold over-plaid on the tweed in the bottom photo., While sporting a PS, it also has a strap at the cuff and a throat latch. And despite the PS, in style and cut appears more likely an overcoat than jacket. Tweeds like this favor gents of your physique particularly. The large and stout, not so much.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Great tweeds and great clothes, all! :loveyou:
> 
> And these are clothes you could live in, and move in, built and fitted for all-day comfort.
> 
> More elaborate back treatments were fashionable in the era, but also offered a lot of practical advantages in more casual jackets and suits. I think that the Esquire of era may have coined the semi-sport for clothing intended to bridge the gap between business and country life.
> 
> The top jacket, while IMO, strictly a country jacket, has some features that seeped into the semi-sport genre. The half belt, and the back yoke with a shirred seam in lieu of a bi-swing back or inverted center pleat. All these devices, in addition to visual interest offer added comfort and freedom of movement. I have a couple jackets with bi-swing backs and find myself drawn to them in part because they're more akin to wearing a sweater. Paul Stuart for many years offered a model they termed their Pivot jacket with leather elbow patches. It featured minimal soft construction, a half belt in rear, and a bi-swing back. And while paired down from the '30's garments, I expect also provided significant improvements in comfort.
> 
> Love the bold over-plaid on the tweed in the bottom photo., While sporting a PS, it also has a strap at the cuff and a throat latch. And despite the PS, in style and cut appears more likely an overcoat than jacket. Tweeds like this favor gents of your physique particularly. The large and stout, not so much.


A lot of good color and insight - thank you.

I, too, saw the PS, but everything else "feels" overcoat to me - and a quite handsome one.

While I agree I have the height, I don't have the shoulders / width to pull those coats off as well as the tall and broad can. But what the heck, if you wear anything like that today, you're standing out no matter your frame.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> A lot of good color and insight - thank you.
> 
> I, too, saw the PS, but everything else "feels" overcoat to me - and a quite handsome one.
> 
> While I agree I have the height, I don't have the shoulders / width to pull those coats off as well as the tall and broad can. But what the heck, if you wear anything like that today, you're standing out no matter your frame.


You have a keen *eye*, but I suspect you might carry off such a coat a bit better than you expect!


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## Flanderian

We'll call it tweed (Even though it's actually vintage cashmere.) because it looks like it, and the whole presentation is too nice not to enjoy.


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## Fading Fast

Might be a dupe, but either way, handsome material:


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## never behind

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Heck of a good collar roll.
> 
> View attachment 46098


Is that leather at the end of the jacket sleeve?


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## Fading Fast

never behind said:


> Is that leather at the end of the jacket sleeve?


I think so. I have a vague memory of seeing some of the "hunting / shooting" style sport coats done that way, but it's an old memory.


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## Flanderian

never behind said:


> Is that leather at the end of the jacket sleeve?





Fading Fast said:


> I think so. I have a vague memory of seeing some of the "hunting / shooting" style sport coats done that way, but it's an old memory.


Believe this particular photo may be an old Polo ad.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Love the coat but would go with a more contrasting PS.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> I think so. I have a vague memory of seeing some of the "hunting / shooting" style sport coats done that way, but it's an old memory.


Years ago I purchased a shooters jacket/sport coat sold by Baretta that sported a seam of leather trim around the ends of the sleeves and along the edges of the pocket flaps. Nice jacket, for sure. I'm sure that I would no longer fit into it, but it may still be around here somewhere in the hoard.


----------



## Peak and Pine

I imagine this, below, would come in handy if you were, say 75 1/2 and you've fallen and couldn't get up...


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> I imagine this, below, would come in handy if you were, say 75 1/2 and you've fallen and couldn't get up...
> 
> View attachment 46185


.....and I really do like that vest!


----------



## Fading Fast

Cross post with the "Old School Gentleman" thread.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Cross post with the "Old School Gentleman" thread.
> View attachment 46192


Great clothes! Marvelous tweed. 👍


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## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Great clothes! Marvelous tweed. 👍


I'd love to own that suit.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 46228


Wonderful Harris Tweed! :loveyou:

Would love one like it!


----------



## ran23

I hated giving up my Harris Tweed when I lost weight, but a Corbin Tweed worked fine for me.


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## Fading Fast

Too fussy and staged presentation for me, but looks like a heck of a overcoat.


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## FiscalDean

Fading Fast said:


> Too fussy and staged presentation for me, but looks like a heck of a overcoat.
> View attachment 46244


IMHO, this is just too much tweed. Just curious, how many of our members avoid wearing a herringbone overcoat when wearing a herringbone suit? I've always avoiding this combination but I'm wondering if this is a common thing or I'm just being a little "fussy".


----------



## Fading Fast

FiscalDean said:


> IMHO, this is just too much tweed. Just curious, how many of our members avoid wearing a herringbone overcoat when wearing a herringbone suit? I've always avoiding this combination but I'm wondering if this is a common thing or I'm just being a little "fussy".


I have a very subtle herringbone overcoat (dark charcoal that you have to get close to, to see its small-herringbone pattern) that I will wear over a herringbone suit.

But to your point, I avoid "bold on bold" herringbone combinations with the exception of casual sport coats with a casual overcoat.

For some reason, maybe since I've seen plenty of examples of it being done in old movies and pics from the '30s-'50s - mainly by college kids and young men - that combo doesn't bother me.

In the day, a lot of people (especially younger men) only had one overcoat and one or two suits or sport coats, so they wore what they had. Hence, if you owned a bold-herringbone overcoat (quite common in the '30s-'50s) and a bold-herringbone sport coat (also quite common in the '30s-'50s) you wore them together.

Also, while I can't name a movie as an example off the top of my head, even mature men often wore subtle (like my coat mentioned earlier) muted-herringbone overcoats over bolder-herringbone suits - at least they did in the movies.


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## Flanderian

I find tweed on tweed vests and jackets more often less appealing. This is an exception -


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## Oldsarge

I don't have any real use for an overcoat but this raises an interesting point. I think I would be more likely to combine a tweed coat with corduroy trousers and a moleskin vest. In three different colors, of course.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast

Cross post with the Old School Gentleman thread.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 46275


Great old Polo ad! 👍



Fading Fast said:


> Cross post with the Old School Gentleman thread.
> View attachment 46277


Tweed like 'ya mean it! irate:


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## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Tweed like 'ya mean it! irate:


You know what I'm going to say, "I want that exact suit."


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## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> You know what I'm going to say, "I want that exact suit."


No problem! -


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## Flanderian

And the coat to wear over it!


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## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 46275


Yes, just like that!


----------



## Flanderian




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## Fading Fast

⇧ simple, handsome, well done.









Okay, too much "Ralph" fashion stuff going on with the sweater in particular, but what is interesting is that the basic grey herringbone suit that we recently saw, in this thread, Tyrone Power wearing in the '30s and Rudolf Valentino wearing, probably, in the 20s is still kicking today.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ simple, handsome, well done.
> 
> View attachment 46319
> 
> Okay, too much "Ralph" fashion stuff going on with the sweater in particular, but what is interesting is that the basic grey herringbone suit that we recently saw, in this thread, Tyrone Power wearing in the '30s and Rudolf Valentino wearing, probably, in the 20s is still kicking today.


As has been said, fshion is passing and classic men's style is timeless. I once had that suit, but I believe the growth of my girth outdistanced the alterability of the waist in the suit pants. Bottom line, I still have, secreted somewhere in the hoard, a very nice grey herringbone sport coat/orphaned suit coat that I hope someday to once again, be able to button around my abdomen! LOL.


----------



## Flanderian

Harris Tweed suit -


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## Fading Fast

⇧ Simple, classic tweed - love to have it in my closet.

⇩ I'm afraid the bowtie and the sport coat are the same Tweed (maybe not, but too close either way). I kinda like the bowtie if it wasn't matched to the sport coat that way.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Simple, classic tweed - love to have it in my closet.
> 
> ⇩ I'm afraid the bowtie and the sport coat are the same Tweed (maybe not, but too close either way). I kinda like the bowtie if it wasn't matched to the sport coat that way.
> View attachment 46359


Ah! The Dandy Shop. Have you ever visited?


----------



## Flanderian




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## Fading Fast

⇧ Handsome suit and handsome outfit.


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## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Handsome suit and handsome outfit.
> 
> View attachment 46402


Nice! :loveyou:

Great tweed, and great Fair Isle!


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## Flanderian




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## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 46423


Love the combo - great use of a denim shirt with tweed.


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## Peak and Pine

Harmony took a hike with this one.
Grenadine, denim, tweed, loud plaid and Dumbo lapels. Not for me.


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## Peak and Pine

Try this instead...


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## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 46457
> View attachment 46458


The top photo reminds me of the BSA's old Order of The Arrow badge....."long time, no see!"


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 46457
> View attachment 46458


Like both of those pairings a lot, and that you've chosen photos where the shoulder and side can be seen.

Quizing over the top one some, the roughish look of swelled seams, throat latch and unironed collar with the smooth silk tie, its formal pattern and the likewise precise positioning of male jewelry (tie bar.) But that's because I stared at it too long, passing that guy in the airport he'd get my unseen thumbs up. Good post.


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## Peak and Pine

...and the collars seem to totally obscure the wearer's neck, but they don't seem particularly high. Maybe it's his anatomy. Nice, long knot on the bottom one.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Good. Very good. Appears to be one of those loose, unstructured cotton tweeds. A true three button. Lumpy lapels though. I own similar (with limpy lapels also, I will lie and say it's part pf the charm). Shirt appears to have some starch. Good.


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## Oldsarge

:crazy: Starch? Ewwww . . .


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> :crazy: Starch? Ewwww . . .


Get yourself a box of Argo corn starch in the baking aisle of your local, friendly food store, while masked of course. Dissolve 5 tablespoons in a gallon of _cold_ water, heat to a rolling boil, cool down, dip shirts, hang to dry. When dry you won't need the hanger, they'll stand up all by themselves. Starch, nature's cardboard.


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> Get yourself a box of Argo corn starch in the baking aisle of your local, friendly food store, while masked of course. Dissolve 5 tablespoons in a gallon of _cold_ water, heat to a rolling boil, cool down, dip shirts, hang to dry. When dry you won't need the hanger, they'll stand up all by themselves. Starch, nature's cardboard.


(_Shudder . . . )_


----------



## Oldsarge

Donegal DB


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Gurdon

Peak and Pine said:


> Get yourself a box of Argo corn starch in the baking aisle of your local, friendly food store, while masked of course. Dissolve 5 tablespoons in a gallon of _cold_ water, heat to a rolling boil, cool down, dip shirts, hang to dry. When dry you won't need the hanger, they'll stand up all by themselves. Starch, nature's cardboard.


To my eye starched shirts don't don't look good with tweed. Contrary wise, starched shirts seem to me to be necessary when wearing a suit.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Gurdon said:


> To my eye starched shirts don't don't look good with tweed. Contrary wise, starched shirts seem to me to be necessary when wearing a suit.


You're probably right. I'm a push over for starch, love the feel and look. Good to hear from you, thought you'd left us.


----------



## Fading Fast

Cross post with the "Ralph" thread:


----------



## EclecticSr.

Peak and Pine said:


> Get yourself a box of Argo corn starch in the baking aisle of your local, friendly food store, while masked of course. Dissolve 5 tablespoons in a gallon of _cold_ water, heat to a rolling boil, cool down, dip shirts, hang to dry. When dry you won't need the hanger, they'll stand up all by themselves. Starch, nature's cardboard.


Of course there is a step before starching for white shirts in particular and that is the simple process of bluing used as a brightener.

I double dip (in starch ) my collars and cuffs for extra stiffness. Nothing like a crisp white shirt or any colored shirt for that matter.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Cross post with the "Ralph" thread:
> View attachment 46561


Tweed on the range! 👍

But I'm just not getting a real cowboy vibe from this gent. More like, E. 86th St. Slim! :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Tweed on the range! 👍
> 
> But I'm just not getting a real cowboy vibe from this gent. More like, E. 86th St. Slim! :icon_scratch:


Good one.

I like it, but I'm not even sure what it's supposed to be - a coat-sweater-sport-coat mashup? I guess it's closest to a short coat, but it also reminds me of those old-fashioned baseball sweaters and it has some similarities to an "unstructured" sport coat.

A bit of an echo to this:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Good one.
> 
> I like it, but I'm not even sure what it's supposed to be - a coat-sweater-sport-coat mashup? I guess it's closest to a short coat, but it also reminds me of those old-fashioned baseball sweaters and it has some similarities to an "unstructured" sport coat.
> 
> A bit of an echo to this:
> View attachment 46574


I'm fine with the coat, in fact, would wear a similar one happily! In fact, have a somewhat similar one from Orvis in plain woven charcoal tweed, but untailored, and with black lamb suede trim and elbow patches.

But while the model may be attempting to bring out his inner Gary Cooper, he looks as if he'd be far more at home on the upper east side than the range. 

(Who's the dude on the left? I can't quite recognize him without a bat in his hands!)


----------



## Flanderian

Apologies if dupe, I can't stay away from checks! :amazing: -


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ wonderful suit, very Apparel Arts.

Re the Ruth pic, I found this caption:

Babe Ruth poses in an amazing New York Yankees sweater with his teammate Al DeVormer in Hot Springs, Arkansas 









Al DeVormer
American professional baseball player




  






Albert E. DeVormer was an American professional baseball player. He played as a backup catcher in Major League Baseball for the Chicago White Sox, New York Yankees, Boston Red Sox, and New York Giants. DeVormer batted and threw right-handed. He was born in Grand Rapids, Michigan. Wikipedia
Born: August 19, 1891, Grand Rapids, MI
Died: August 29, 1966, Grand Rapids, MI
Position: Catcher


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ wonderful suit, very Apparel Arts.
> 
> Re the Ruth pic, I found this caption:
> 
> Babe Ruth poses in an amazing New York Yankees sweater with his teammate Al DeVormer in Hot Springs, Arkansas
> View attachment 46579
> 
> 
> Al DeVormer
> American professional baseball player
> 
> 
> View attachment 46580
> 
> 
> Albert E. DeVormer was an American professional baseball player. He played as a backup catcher in Major League Baseball for the Chicago White Sox, New York Yankees, Boston Red Sox, and New York Giants. DeVormer batted and threw right-handed. He was born in Grand Rapids, Michigan. Wikipedia
> Born: August 19, 1891, Grand Rapids, MI
> Died: August 29, 1966, Grand Rapids, MI
> Position: Catcher


Can't help but observe that the natty Mr. Ruth appears well shod, also!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Can't help but observe that the natty Mr. Ruth appears well shod, also!


Agreed. Most men, if they could afford to, just cared about the way they dressed much more back then.


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Tweed on the range! 👍
> 
> But I'm just not getting a real cowboy vibe from this gent. More like, E. 86th St. Slim! :icon_scratch:


So you are getting sort of a Glenn Campbell Rhinestone Cowboy vibe....and I admitted to liking that rig(?). Oh my! :crazy: LOL,


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> So you are getting sort of a Glenn Campbell Rhinestone Cowboy vibe....and I admitted to liking that rig(?). Oh my! :crazy: LOL,


The clothes are fine! Just the guy in them looks like he belongs somewhere else. (I.e., typical NYC model fodder.)


----------



## David J. Cooper

Interesting how small the Bambino looks in street clothes. He would look like a little boy next to Aaron Judge.


----------



## Fading Fast

David J. Cooper said:


> Interesting how small the Bambino looks in street clothes. He would look like a little boy next to Aaron Judge.


My sofa propped up on one end would look small next to Aaron Judge.

Kidding aside, I agree re Ruth, my guess, this was earlier in his career. Also, those thick shawl-collar sweater can swallow you up.

For years (and maybe again this winter), J.Peterman has carried a similar style sweater. I've thought about buying it, but as noted, those sweaters can swallow a man and my tall thin frame doesn't need any more help looking narrow. If it can trim down the Bambino, there's no hope for me.

The J.Peterman one:


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 46596


A Herringbone weave jacket, as pictured above should be included in every well dressed gentleman's closet. I've got one, actually two if I include the one with the pale windowpane overlay!. Alas, I don't get to wear either of those beauties down here in Saunaville, USA.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> A Herringbone weave jacket, as pictured above should be included in every well dressed gentleman's closet. I've got one, actually two if I include the one with the pale windowpane overlay!. Alas, I don't get to wear either of those beauties down here in Saunaville, USA.


You know you'll get no argument from me. I own three grey, two grey-blue, one charcoal and one oatmeal herringbone sport coat (acquired over many years and I might be forgetting one or two). I don't own even one navy blazer (oddly, it's one of the few core Trad garments I'm not a fan of for myself).

Twenty or so years ago, I owned a silk-linen blend (nubby) grey herringbone sport coat (from the now bankrupt Brooks) that was perfect for late spring and summer. I now own a tan version that serves the same purpose (except it's fully lined, which isn't ideal).

In 1996, my girlfriend (at the time) and I caught a cheap flight down to South Beach for a long weekend. That Brooks silk-linen jacket was the one I took and it was perfect.

Have you thought about buying (or maybe you already own) something like that jacket? It could be a way for you to kinda get a grey "Tweed" herringbone sport coat into your wardrobe.

P.S., My present girlfriend and I went down to Miami in (about) '09 and I took the tan silk-linen sport coat one I own now. Not surprising to us at AAAC, but back in '96, I wore a sport coat a bunch - to dinner or drinks - and I did not stand out at all as about half the crowd was doing the same back then, but by '09, I was in the distinct minority and ended up hardly wearing it.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> You know you'll get no argument from me. I own three grey, two grey-blue, one charcoal and one oatmeal herringbone sport coat (acquired over many years and I might be forgetting one or two). I don't own even one navy blazer (oddly, it's one of the few core Trad garments I'm not a fan of for myself).
> 
> Twenty or so years ago, I owned a silk-linen blend (nubby) grey herringbone sport coat (from the now bankrupt Brooks) that was perfect for late spring and summer. I now own a tan version that serves the same purpose (except it's fully lined, which isn't ideal).
> 
> In 1996, my girlfriend (at the time) and I caught a cheap flight down to South Beach for a long weekend. That Brooks silk-linen jacket was the one I took and it was perfect.
> 
> Have you thought about buying (or maybe you already own) something like that jacket? It could be a way for you to kinda get a grey "Tweed" herringbone sport coat into your wardrobe.
> 
> P.S., My present girlfriend and I went down to Miami in (about) '09 and I took the tan silk-linen sport coat one I own now. Not surprising to us at AAAC, but back in '96, I wore a sport coat a bunch - to dinner or drinks - and I did not stand out at all as about half the crowd was doing the same back then, but by '09, I was in the distinct minority and ended up hardly wearing it.


Picking up a nice-cool wearing silk-linen blend grey herringbone sport coat may be a very thoughtful option for me , once I've gotten rid of my central Florida weight gain over the past 4+ years. Egads, I've done nothing but gain weight since we moved down here!


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Picking up a nice-cool wearing silk-linen blend grey herringbone sport coat may be a very thoughtful option for me , once I've gotten rid of my central Florida weight gain over the past 4+ years. Egads, I've done nothing but gain weight since we moved down here!


Don't be too hard on yourself. Being locked in our apartments the past four months has led to many gaining weight.

I think the grey and the tan silk-linen herringbones will be a nice add to your post-weight-loss wardrobe.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Don't be too hard on yourself. Being locked in our apartments the past four months has led to many gaining weight.
> 
> I think the grey and the tan silk-linen herringbones will be a nice add to your post-weight-loss wardrobe.


Thank you for your kind words, my friend.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 46609


I do love the jacket, but those lapels are a bit more aggressive than I would like on my own coats. Also, to my eye, a button down collar looks better with a Tweed jacket.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> I do love the jacket, but those lapels are a bit more aggressive than I would like on my own coats. Also, to my eye, a button down collar looks better with a Tweed jacket.


Gotta drop that gorge, and shave a 1/2", or so, from the lapels. :beer:

Though the jacket as it's depicted is at a disadvantage since we can't see the entirety of what's being worn. I believe it's Italian bespoke, and the whole would appear aesthetically better balanced than just this piece alone, if it was visible.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 46639


Nice! I actually have an older Orvis jacket in a very similar Harris Tweed. Quite versatile.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 46639


Oh, yes! Reposting on the Sportcoat and Turtleneck thread.


----------



## Flanderian

Apologies if dupe =


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Nice! I actually have an older Orvis jacket in a very similar Harris Tweed. Quite versatile.


My Orvis Jacket that appears very like the Tweed to which you refer seems to have a more green rather than a brown cast to it and it has flapped pockets.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> My Orvis Jacket that appears very like the Tweed to which you refer seems to have a more green rather than a brown cast to it and it has flapped pockets.


I suspect we may have the same jacket, mine is 15 - 20 years old.

Like most Harris Tweeds, there is a remarkable variety of colors woven into it. Viewed casually in mediocre light, it reads a dark brown herringbone. But as you note, there're flashes of green woven among it. And if viewed close up in bright sunlight, it reveals the dominant colors of the yarn are actually black and gold, which create what appears as dark brown.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 46677


Lovely jacket, nice tie, but why in the world did he leave his collar unbuttoned?


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Lovely jacket, nice tie, but why in the world did he leave his collar unbuttoned?


And unironed! :fish:

It doesn't look better, just sloppy.


----------



## Oldsarge

Slops-aturra?


----------



## Flanderian

Darker grey Harris Tweed herringbone suit. Looks a little calm just sitting there, but it's just waiting for us to breath life into it via adroit choices. Because certain to hidden within it will be reclusive hints of color, waiting only for the kindred harmonies of shirt, tie & PS to smolder subtly to life.

It ain't what you do, it's the way that you do it!


----------



## Oldsarge

With a ground that neutral, you'd have to _work _to make a mess of it_._


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> With a ground that neutral, you'd have to _work _to make a mess of it_._


I have a newer (Less than 20 years!) Orvis Signature tartan shirt, though I can't recall the name of the tartan. I love many tartans for their variety and because the good ones just look right. And despite a profusion of colors, tend to harmonize well other clothing, particularly tweeds. This particular tartan has as its main constituents soft muted lavender, and sort muted green. This Harris Tweed contains a lot of heather light, and should be set off beautifully by such a shirt. It also has a rust deco-plaid, and I'd be tempted to try a solid muted rust wool tie with it, and this suit.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Darker grey Harris Tweed herringbone suit. Looks a little calm just sitting there, but it's just waiting for us to breath life into it via adroit choices. Because certain to hidden within it will be reclusive hints of color, waiting only for the kindred harmonies of shirt, tie & PS to smolder subtly to life.
> 
> It ain't what you do, it's the way that you do it!
> 
> View attachment 46691


If I had to build a suit wardrobe from scratch again (yeh, I know, worsted grey or navy - interview suit, blah, blah, blah), I'd be happy starting with this one.


----------



## Gurdon

Gurdon said:


> To my eye starched shirts don't don't look good with tweed. Contrary wise, starched shirts seem to me to be necessary when wearing a suit.


Thanks for replying to my comment. I'm pleased that you responded favorably. Glad to have time and opportunity to more actively participate on Ask Andy than has been the case until recently.


----------



## Fading Fast

Too much going on for me in this outfit, but on their now, with a solid shirt and low-key tie, the trousers could look nice.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 46715
> 
> Too much going on for me in this outfit, but on their now, with a solid shirt and low-key tie, the trousers could look nice.


Are those belt loops or adjustment tabs we are looking at to both the right and left of the model's midriff? :icon_scratch:


----------



## EclecticSr.

eagle2250 said:


> Are those belt loops or adjustment tabs we are looking at to both the right and left of the model's midriff? :icon_scratch:


They appear to be part of Cordings tweed collection, as such they would be side adjusters.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Are those belt loops or adjustment tabs we are looking at to both the right and left of the model's midriff? :icon_scratch:





EclecticSr. said:


> They appear to be part of Cordings tweed collection, as such they would be side adjusters.


Looks like a side adjuster to me too. If you enlarge the pic, on the left side, you can kinda see it a bit more.


----------



## Oldsarge

A bit flamboyant for my taste, TBH.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 46715
> 
> Too much going on for me in this outfit, but on their now, with a solid shirt and low-key tie, the trousers could look nice.


LOVE the trousers! And the shirt. :loveyou:

But wish to rip off that bozo tie!










Not just ruinous to the ensemble, but rightfully dreadful on its own.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 46724
> 
> 
> A bit flamboyant for my taste, TBH.


Yes.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 46754


I do like the combination...the vest softens the visual impact of the jackets hue just enough to make it work well. In keeping with a vow to myself to stop beating dead horses, I will not mention the pocket square! LOL.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> I do like the combination...the vest softens the visual impact of the jackets hue just enough to make it work well. In keeping with a vow to myself to stop beating dead horses, I will not mention the pocket square! LOL.


I don't dispute that the outfit works, I just can't get past the jackets hue. Reasonable shirt collar roll though.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Dark teal with snow flakes, an 80s incarnation that rivaled the Atomic Fleck of the 50s. It can look good, but not like that because the wearer appears to have no idea of what he's got on. We all can tell when a jacket is yanked from a suit and worn independantly, ditto with certain vests, like this one. Because the jacket is unbuttoned and the shot too close, little can be told about fit except the upper arms seem to wrinkle easily (short of wearing linen, who has that problem?). Because teal is made from blue and green, and for reasons I don't understand, green goes lousy with it, but blue goes great, trade in all that brown stuff for blue, minus any vest at all (you've got sewn in snowflakes/dandriff and Boeing lapels, you need more attention grabbing stuff?)


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I don't dispute that the outfit works, I just can't get past the jackets hue. Reasonable shirt collar roll though.


Agreed! Perhaps a bit too vivid. And I like teal, but would like it even better wee it a little more muted.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Agreed! Perhaps a bit too vivid. And I like teal, but would like it even better wee it a little more muted.


The thing that happens, to me anyway, is that I forget that items that might look reasonable in this thread - because we are constantly viewing all versions of Tweed (very broadly defined) here and we are Tweed fans - will really, really, really stand out in our not-dressy, not-very-Tweedy world.

To wit, I can't think of a single day/event in my life - and I live in a city and work in a field where some still dress up regularly - where that jacket wouldn't stand out like a sore thumb. If that's someone's thing, more power to them, but if my clothes are noticed at all, I want it to be in a quiet, subtle way and not in a "look at me" way.


----------



## Flanderian

Can't find it, but Fading Fast and I had a brief discussion in this thread in which I mentioned a particular model Paul Stuart named their Pivot model. It was/is a more casual jacket introduced around '93. It was intended to be a bridge between more formal tailored clothing and sportswear, and was lightly constructed, often of tweeds and featured a bi-swing back, a belt in back, suede elbow patches, and under collar lining, and finally, surgeon cuffs that were intended to be folded up obviating the need for sleeve shortening, if desired

The illustration below is from their '97 catalog. It is their then extant Pivot model, though I'm not sure how many of the original features it maintained, but it's got the right attitude. A roomy, informal jacket to dress up casual wear, in what looks like a lightweight charcoal brown Shetland with camel overplaid.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Can't find it, but Fading Fast and I had a brief discussion in this thread in which I mentioned a particular model Paul Stuart named their Pivot model. It was/is a more casual jacket introduced around '93. It was intended to be a bridge between more formal tailored clothing and sportswear, and was lightly constructed, often of tweeds and featured a bi-swing back, a belt in back, suede elbow patches, and under collar lining, and finally, surgeon cuffs that were intended to be folded up obviating the need for sleeve shortening, if desired
> 
> The illustration below is from their '97 catalog. It is their then extant Pivot model, though I'm not sure how many of the original features it maintained, but it's got the right attitude. A roomy, informal jacket to dress up casual wear, in what looks like a lightweight charcoal brown Shetland with camel overplaid.
> 
> View attachment 46759


Other than that the weak would faint at the sight of pleats, that's an outfit - owing to its muted colors - that one could still wear today, but would be on the far end of the dressy spectrum. Love the D-ring side tabs.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> The thing that happens, to me anyway, is that I forget that items that might look reasonable in this thread - because we are constantly viewing all versions of Tweed (very broadly defined) here and we are Tweed fans - will really, really, really stand out in our not-dressy, not-very-Tweedy world.
> 
> To wit, I can't think of a single day/event in my life - and I live in a city and work in a field where some still dress up regularly - where that jacket wouldn't stand out like a sore thumb. If that's someone's thing, more power to them, but if my clothes are noticed at all, I want it to be in a quiet, subtle way and not in a "look at me" way.


You know yourself, and you know your style. To look good in what you're wearing, you need to feel comfortable wearing it, and I suspect many men would find a jacket this bright out of sync with their persona.

(Though of course there's some who might not! )

https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/threads/geezer-power.233949/page-33


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> You know yourself, and you know your style. To look good in what you're wearing, you need to feel comfortable wearing it, and I suspect many men would find a jacket this bright out of sync with their persona.
> 
> (Though of course there's some who might not! )


I've known several men who can pull off bold outfits - colors, looks, combo, patterns. I love seeing it and applaud their skills. I also know, that ain't me. I have a feeling you, though, have that skill.

@upr_crust has that skill and, while he usually doesn't go all the way out there on the curve, he wears many bold outfits incredibly well. They look natural on him and he couldn't look more comfortable wearing them. He's one of the most impressive dressers I've ever known.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I've known several men who can pull off bold outfits - colors, looks, combo, patterns. I love seeing it and applaud their skills. I also know, that ain't me. I have a feeling you, though, have that skill.
> 
> @upr_crust has that skill and, while he usually doesn't go all the way out there on the curve, he wears many bold outfits incredibly well. They look natural on him and he couldn't look more comfortable wearing them. He's one of the most impressive dressers I've ever known.


Thank you, that's very flattering! (isn't it? )

There are definite limitations to what I can, or want to, wear. But given the lowest common denominator of many in various monotone shorts and T-shirts ensembles, I'm sure some of what I wear would seem so to many, particularly, the very young.

A true story: Once upon visiting a common venue of mine, I overheard one of the school boys who worked there matter-of-factly associate my dress with that of another patron with whom I was familiar. I was horrified!  This particular patron evidently has a fondness of vinyl fetish wear. And while otherwise commonly dressed, will sometimes wear items such as a vinyl mid-thigh raincoat in fire engine red and a matching peaked cap.

*OH NO I DON'T!* But in the eyes of this 18 year-old, departures from the norm of dress via any form of elaboration gets placed in the same basket, as inexperience does not permit differentiation.

The ensemble in the photo appeals to me for many reasons, one of which is that while I'm fond of brown, many shades are not flattering. However, charcoal brown, if a little enriched in hue, is one that is.

Another thing perhaps worth noting is that, sadly, as I age, the latitude which I can enjoy diminishes.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Thank you, that's very flattering! (isn't it? )
> 
> There are definite limitations to what I can, or want to, wear. But given the lowest common denominator of many in various monotone shorts and T-shirts ensembles, I'm sure some of what I wear would seem so to many, particularly, the very young.
> 
> A true story: Once upon visiting a common venue of mine, I overheard one of school boys who worked there matter-of-factly associate my dress with that of another patron with whom I was familiar. I was horrified!  This particular patron evidently has a fondness of vinyl fetish wear. And while otherwise commonly dressed, will sometimes wear items such as a vinyl mid-thigh raincoat in fire engine red and a matching peaked cap.
> 
> *OH NO I DON'T!* But in the eyes of this 18 year-old, departures from the norm of dress via any form of elaboration gets placed in the same basket, as inexperience does not permit differentiation.
> 
> The ensemble in the photo appeals to me for many reasons, one of which is that while I'm fond of brown, many shades are not flattering. However, charcoal brown, if a little enriched in hue, is one that is.
> 
> Another thing perhaps worth noting is that, sadly, as I age, the latitude which I can enjoy diminishes.


There are several versions of that 18-year-old's view. One being that any suit is viewed as dressed up and nice. I see so many TV shows and movies today where the male actors are in ill-fitted suits and badly matched outfits, but since "he's in a suit and tie," everyone acts like he's dressed beautifully.

And maybe they believe it as what do they have to compare it to? Bubbles in the back of the neck, too long or short sleeves or trousers, suits pulled and rumpled here, there and everywhere - none of it seems to matter since "it's a suit," thus, he must be dressed well.

It seems when Ivy dress went mainstream in the '50s/'60s, a wider swath of the population understood dress so details and tailoring mattered more. As you've noted many times, the TV shows and movies outfitted and tailored their stars beautifully back then. It's one of the reasons I find old movies so enjoyable - it was a world where people dressed really well. Sadly, today's movies are teaching a young generation a not-good way to match outfits and tailor suits.

As I've noted many times here, if I have on a pair of nothing-special chinos, a not-pressed OCBD and a J.Crew tweed blazer, I will usually get several compliments about how nicely I'm dressed. I've been wearing that same style outfit since the '80s, but its only been in the last 10 (and somewhat 20) years that I've started getting so many compliments on it.

I'd like to believe it's me looking great [  ], but it isn't [  ]. I've just stood still as the dress standards shifted down around me to the point where my not-special outfit now looks "dressed up."


----------



## Oldsarge

I recall the POW recently remarking, after being complimented on his DB suit, that he seems to come back into fashion every twenty-five years or so. I have my fingers crossed.


----------



## upr_crust

Fading Fast said:


> I've known several men who can pull off bold outfits - colors, looks, combo, patterns. I love seeing it and applaud their skills. I also know, that ain't me. I have a feeling you, though, have that skill.
> 
> @upr_crust has that skill and, while he usually doesn't go all the way out there on the curve, he wears many bold outfits incredibly well. They look natural on him and he couldn't look more comfortable wearing them. He's one of the most impressive dressers I've ever known.


I am flattered by your praise, sir - and will attempt to live up to it, as soon as the weather cools enough to be able to wear anything other than shorts and polo shirts.


----------



## Fading Fast

Tweed plus colorful vest. which was a topic of conversation over in the '50s-Illustration thread a few days ago.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Would look much better without the squared off shoulder, and that tie does not belong on a human, still the jacket's pretty good and the vest and its material outstanding.


----------



## Peak and Pine

In certain jurisdictions doing this, mainly due to the lack of pants, can get you arrested.










Boffo piece, including the lining and choice of tie.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## upr_crust

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 46806


You've been cribbing off of Nigel Cleaver's Instagram account again? I recognize the clothes . . .


----------



## Flanderian

upr_crust said:


> You've been cribbing off of Nigel Cleaver's Instagram account again? I recognize the clothes . . .


Absolutely! If you're gonna steal, steal from the best! :icon_cheers:

And thank you for providing Mr. Cleaver's actual name, as heretofore I've only known him by his account handle of Cleav, which has always sounded awkward in reference.


----------



## upr_crust

Flanderian said:


> Absolutely! If you're gonna steal, steal from the best! :icon_cheers:
> 
> And thank you for providing Mr. Cleaver's actual name, as heretofore I've only known him by his account handle of Cleav, which has always sounded awkward in reference.


You're welcome for the name. I count myself lucky in that Cleav is a personal acquaintance of mine - as equally charming and elegant in person as he is pictured online.


----------



## Flanderian

upr_crust said:


> You're welcome for the name. I count myself lucky in that Cleav is a personal acquaintance of mine - as equally charming and elegant in person as he is pictured online.


I am not surprised!


----------



## Fading Fast

Could be a dupe, feels familiar. The vest works well with the sport coat IMO.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Could be a dupe, feels familiar. The vest works well with the sport coat IMO.
> View attachment 46843


Two tweeds is a challenge, three, even more so. But this does work fairly well. 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Luca says, "Ciao!" -


----------



## Peak and Pine

The photo may have been tweaked, but if not, I like the sharp difference in tone between the bones of this herring bone o'coat.


----------



## 215339

O'Connell's has the exact kind of colour I want in an overcoat. Navy/blue donegal


----------



## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> O'Connell's has the exact kind of colour I want in an overcoat. Navy/blue donegal


Wow, that's really nice. I hope you get it.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Wow, that's really nice. I hope you get it.


.......and share pictures of you wearing it, for we unfortunates who may never again get to a handsome coat like that!


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> Could be a dupe, feels familiar. The vest works well with the sport coat IMO.
> View attachment 46843


I would prefer more contrast, myself.


----------



## Flanderian

delicious_scent said:


> O'Connell's has the exact kind of colour I want in an overcoat. Navy/blue donegal


Great coat!
What's stopping you!? irate:


----------



## ran23

I decided to keep my Corbin grey Herringbone Tweed, and have it let out (38->40)


----------



## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> Wow, that's really nice. I hope you get it.





eagle2250 said:


> .......and share pictures of you wearing it, for we unfortunates who may never again get to a handsome coat like that!





Flanderian said:


> Great coat!
> What's stopping you!? irate:


about $1500USD  is stopping me, and already owning an overcoat.


----------



## Flanderian

delicious_scent said:


> about $1500USD  is stopping me, and already owning an overcoat.


Aww . . . . picky details!


----------



## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> about $1500USD  is stopping me, and already owning an overcoat.


I hear ya, that's a whole lot of money. Not an excessive price for that coat, but still, a lot of money.


----------



## Fading Fast

Feels like a dupe, but if not, didn't want to not post this different Tweed.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Feels like a dupe, but if not, didn't want to not post this different Tweed.
> View attachment 46882


Nice!

Similar, I think, to some others, but not a dupe.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 46884


When it comes to Tweed jackets, you do seem to have your earth tones covered!


----------



## Flanderian

Luca says, "Ciao!" :hi:


----------



## Oldsarge

That hat has got to GO!


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> That hat has got to GO!


*Rule No. 666: *Don't wear weird hats.

*Catch 22:* Unless you're Luca Rubinacci. Luca can wear everything.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^^
Italian obnoxiousness. Next...

Below, not a Fair Isle kinda guy, of which I'm appreciative. Good combo..


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 46893


⇧ Beautiful suit.

⇩ Probably not Tweed, but still seems to fit our open-minded thread. Flanderian, looks like it's in your wheelhouse - your thoughts on the combo?


----------



## Peak and Pine

Am reposting a modification of the above because I thought the 16 year-old's head trying to affect a Rudolph Valentino look was a distraction to an otherwise outstanding outfit. One of the nicest I've seen here.


----------



## Fading Fast

From the movie "The Gentlemen" which has an eclectic style of very interesting outfits - many throwbacks or echoes of throwbacks. (Comments on the movie here:  #402 )


----------



## EclecticSr.

Peak and Pine said:


> ^^
> Italian obnoxiousness. Next...
> 
> Below, not a Fair Isle kinda guy, of which I'm appreciative. Good combo..
> 
> View attachment 46921





Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Beautiful suit.
> 
> ⇩ Probably not Tweed, but still seems to fit our open-minded thread. Flanderian, looks like it's in your wheelhouse - your thoughts on the combo?
> View attachment 46922


I'm thinking not a suit. Telltale peek at trousers suggest a solid brown, sport coat? 
Whatever, right in my wheelhouse.


----------



## EclecticSr.

^^^ 
Seems I responded to 2 posts, Nonetheless, in agreement on both.


----------



## Peak and Pine

I used to smoke. Been clean five years. Wouldn't mind being this guy for an hour or so though. In NYC once again at maybe 25 in a swell full tweed. Puffing on a Chesterfield..


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Beautiful suit.


Rubinacci makes nice stuff!. I enjoy Luca, He seems to know how to enjoy life. Comes across as ebullient, and a bit devil-may-care, but he does have a wonderful eye, having learned from his father Mariano, and can get away with things that would be ridiculous on many/most men, He must have grown up in the business, and is now its creative director.



Fading Fast said:


> ⇩ Probably not Tweed, but still seems to fit our open-minded thread. Flanderian, looks like it's in your wheelhouse - your thoughts on the combo?
> View attachment 46922


This is one of Paul Stuart's Phineas Cole suits from either that line's first or second season. The pattern and color harmonies are very adroit and interesting, but I'm afraid the cut isn't my cup of tea, or the overall aesthetic.

Hate to say it, and not because of this, but I'm getting a sense Paul Stuart is in trouble.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Rubinacci makes nice stuff!. I enjoy Luca, He seems to know how to enjoy life. Comes across as ebullient, and a bit devil-may-care, but he does have a wonderful eye, and can get away with things that would ridiculous on many/most men, having learned from his father Mariano. He must have grown up in the business, and is now its creative director.
> 
> This is one of Paul Stuart's Phineas Cole suits from either that line's first or second season. The pattern and color harmonies are very adroit and interesting, but I'm afraid the cut isn't my cup of tea, or the overall aesthetic.
> 
> Hate to say it, and not because of this, but I'm getting a sense Paul Stuart is in trouble.


Re Paul Stuart, I agree as the emails from it read of increasing desperation. Sadly, the balancing act of having expensive real estate (can't image what the monthly carry on that huge Madison Ave store is - and they just spent big renovating it) and expensive inventory necessitating a lot of wealthy customers willing to buy, overall, not-particularly-necessary clothes in today's world is probably getting pummeled by this pandemic.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Re Paul Stuart, I agree as the emails from it read of increasing desperation. Sadly, the balancing act of having expensive real estate (can't image what the monthly carry on that huge Madison Ave store is - and they just spent big renovating it) and expensive inventory necessitating a lot of wealthy customers willing to buy, overall, not-particularly-necessary clothes in today's world is probably getting pummeled by this pandemic.


That's exactly what I'm getting, along with notice of more and more rather off-base ventures entirely out of character with PS's DNA. Not surprisingly, when you set out to be different from what you are, you are often punished with achieving it. Current retail philosophy is evidently, go big, or go home. I'm sure their Japanese purchaser would like to eventually get some ROI.

Their current CEO came from Brooks where she had been president. Prior to that she was at Bally. And I had snarked that she hoped to be able to do for Paul Stuart what she's done for Brooks. That of course is unfair, because she came into a difficult situation, I just don't see her vision as intrinsically compatible with PS's heritage.

BTW, missed your screen stills in #4342 earlier, great clothes! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Peak and Pine

Sorry to break up the klatch, but back to the tweeds....


----------



## Flanderian

Luca says, "Ciao!" :hi:


----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> I used to smoke. Been clean five years. Wouldn't mind being this guy for an hour or so though. In NYC once again at maybe 25 in a swell full tweed. Puffing on a Chesterfield..
> 
> View attachment 46936


Congratulations for kicking the smoking habit.  While I have no personal experience doing that, I understand that it is not easy to do. Truly I am happy to hear of your healthier lifestyle!


----------



## EclecticSr.

Been clean going on 16 years. Cold turkey. However, if I make it to 90 I'm gonna take it up again. lucky Strike, none of that woosy filtered stuff. 

Drives family crazy, They don't get the humor, but hey, I'm serious.


----------



## Flanderian

EclecticSr. said:


> Been clean going on 16 years. Cold turkey. However, if I make it to 90 I'm gonna take it up again. lucky Strike, none of that woosy filtered stuff.
> 
> Drives family crazy, They don't get the humor, but hey, I'm serious.


:laughing:


----------



## Flanderian

A while back we were discussing reversible coats. The attached photo depicts one on the right which is, reversing from olive whipcord to a handsome check tweed.

And, BTW, the coat to left is so magnificent as to cause drooling, both in style and substance, consisting of charcoal whipcord lined with thick, soft and very warm olive alpaca pile. For when you absolutely, positively needed to stay warm.

From Paul Stuart's Fall and Winter 1997 catalog, a time when Paul Stuart was still special in its special way; I.e., innovative variations on classics with a sure-handed, dead-on sense of aesthetics and style.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> A while back we were discussing reversible coats. The attached photo depicts one on the right which is, reversing from olive whipcord to a handsome check tweed.
> 
> And, BTW, the coat to left is so magnificent as to cause drooling, both in style and substance, consisting of charcoal whipcord lined with thick, soft and very warm olive alpaca pile. For when you absolutely, positively needed to stay warm.
> 
> From Paul Stuart's Fall and Winter 1997 catalog, a time when Paul Stuart was still special in its special way; I.e., innovative variations on classics with a sure-handed, dead-on sense of aesthetics and style.
> 
> View attachment 46947


It's rare to see a reversible that's not grey or brown herringbone, but if anyone would do it, Paul Stuart makes senes. Another reason why it would be a shame to lose that store. I don't always love all the outré things it does, but I love that it is doing them.


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> Am reposting a modification of the above because I thought the 16 year-old's head trying to affect a Rudolph Valentino look was a distraction to an otherwise outstanding outfit. One of the nicest I've seen here.
> 
> View attachment 46925


Utterly glorious!


----------



## Peak and Pine

eagle2250 said:


> Congratulations for kicking the smoking habit. While I have no personal experience doing that, I understand that is not easy to do. Truly I am happy to hear of your healthier lifestyle!


I began at 13, quit at 70. Wasn't difficult. Will power rates high with me.

I don't like it when others go off-tweed here, so sorry. Let me make it up to you with this....


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> It's rare to see a reversible that's not grey or brown herringbone, but if anyone would do it, Paul Stuart makes senes. Another reason why it would be a shame to lose that store. I don't always love all the outré things it does, but I love that it is doing them.


Sadly, I think it may have been lost quite a while ago, as I'm less and less impressed with what I see from them.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Sadly, I think it may have been lost quite a while ago, as I'm less and less impressed with what I see from them.


You're probably right, I haven't been in the store (more than once) in years. The Phineas Cole line (which must be over ten years old now) seemed to be PS's attempt to merge its flamboyant twist on classic style with today's slim/skinny fits and cuts. I might have one linen PC shirt bought on sale, but otherwise, the line was a bit too out there and cut too tight/short/narrow for my tastes, but again, glad PS was doing it.

I think you mentioned Tripler recently. If PS goes and with BB in bankruptcy, there's almost nothing left of that once amazing few-block locus on Madison Avenue of classic menswear.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> You're probably right, I haven't been in the store (more than once) in years. The Phineas Cole line (which must be over ten years old now) seemed to be PS's attempt to merge its flamboyant twist on classic style with today's slim/skinny fits and cuts. I might have one linen PC shirt bought on sale, but otherwise, the line was a bit too out there and cut too tight/short/narrow for my tastes, but again, glad PS was doing it.
> 
> I think you mentioned Tripler recently. If PS goes and with BB in bankruptcy, there's almost nothing left of that once amazing few-block locus on Madison Avenue of classic menswear.


From what I can glean from the news, it would appear that not only Madison Avenue but the entirety of Manhattan is fading into oblivion. Once CEO's discover that having their minions work from home saves millions in downtown rent, the writing is on the wall. _Mene, mene, tekel, upherson._


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> You're probably right, I haven't been in the store (more than once) in years. The Phineas Cole line (which must be over ten years old now) seemed to be PS's attempt to merge its flamboyant twist on classic style with today's slim/skinny fits and cuts. I might have one linen PC shirt bought on sale, but otherwise, the line was a bit too out there and cut too tight/short/narrow for my tastes, but again, glad PS was doing it.
> 
> I think you mentioned Tripler recently. If PS goes and with BB in bankruptcy, there's almost nothing left of that once amazing few-block locus on Madison Avenue of classic menswear.


My shopping trips to the City would follow a predictable pattern; the *original* Press, Chipp (A favorite), Brooks, then Paul Stuart for the main course, a stop at Tripler's then a jaunt up to 57th St. for Burberry, Bergdorff, some of the other shops, then Saks' marvelous store on 5th if I had the time.

Almost all gone!

(Me too! )


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> From what I can glean from the news, it would appear that not only Madison Avenue but the entirety of Manhattan is fading into oblivion. Once CEO's discover that having their minions work from home saves millions in downtown rent, the writing is on the wall. _Mene, mene, tekel, upherson._


It certainly doesn't feel good now. The number of new empty storefronts (hard to see into office buildings, but I'll bet it's the same) is not encouraging. Until the Pandemic is over, and some time has past, we won't know the full extend of the damage and change, but the signs are not good at all.



Flanderian said:


> My shopping trips to the City would follow a predictable pattern; the *original* Press, Chipp (A favorite), Brooks, then Paul Stuart for the main course, a stop at Tripler's then a jaunt up to 57th St. for Burberry, Bergdorff, some of the other shops, then Saks' marvelous store on 5th if I had the time.
> 
> Almost all gone!
> 
> (Me too! )
> 
> View attachment 46969


In the '80s, on several Saturdays a year, I did a similar perambulation sans Chipp (I don't remember seeing that store - when did it close?) but including Church's and Crouch and Fitzgerald (pure browsing at that one).


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

^^
Good. And great tie for the outfit. Horozontal pink stripes. I dunno. As with something posted yesterday, face doesn't seem to fit. Give 'em a big nose or crows' feet, we need features on a face, guy's like a ghost. As good as this outfit is, and it _Is_ good, it doesn't compare to the crocodile chair upon which the youth sits.

More browns...


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> In the '80s, on several Saturdays a year, I did a similar perambulation sans Chipp (I don't remember seeing that store - when did it close?) but including Church's and Crouch and Fitzgerald (pure browsing at that one).


I forgot about Crouch and Fitzgerald in which I once happened to see Sigourney Weaver enter the store. Sadly, became a JAB store when they left.

Chipp was on the south side of E44 St. just in from Madison, next to the original Press, and across the street from Brooks' side entrance. I think they closed this location around '96 or '97.



Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 46971


*Very* well done! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Luca says, "Ciao!" :hi:


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Luca says, "Ciao!" :hi:
> 
> View attachment 46993


Beautiful. Based on the shirt and tie colors and that it seems only partially lined, could this be a linen-silk "Tweed" more suited for Eagle's weather?


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Beautiful. Based on the shirt and tie colors and that it seems only partially lined, could this be a linen-silk "Tweed" more suited for Eagle's weather?


Don't know, might well be. And as Rubinacci is Neopolitan, their clothing tends to be lighter weight. If not silk/linen, still definitely a looser, lighter tweed.


----------



## Oldsarge

NOT impressed with the tie but the coat is a winner.


----------



## FiscalDean

Oldsarge said:


> NOT impressed with the tie but the coat is a winner.


The shirt is my least favorite


----------



## Fading Fast

Good to see them starting young:


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Good to see them starting young:
> View attachment 47019


Now that is an example of good parenting, or grand parenting as the case may be! Nice Tweed,


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Now that is an example of good parenting, or grand parenting as the case may be! Nice Tweed,


Seriously good parenting - looks like, in addition to an elbow-patch herringbone Tweed sport coat, the young man has on a tattersall shirt and a tie with birds or ducks or dogs or some-such animal on it. I'd bet he's also got on dark-green wide-wale cords, thick yellow cashmere socks and little #8 pennies as well.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> Seriously good parenting - looks like, in addition to an elbow-patch herringbone Tweed sport coat, the young man has on a tattersall shirt and a tie with birds or ducks or dogs or some-such animal on it. I'd bet he's also got on dark-green wide-wale cords, thick yellow cashmere socks and little #8 pennies as well.


And has probably gotten started in fly casting. A bit young for shotguns, though.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Good to see them starting young:
> View attachment 47019


Wonderful! :loveyou:

Though if current trends continue, that may the last time the young man ever wears a tie. 😪


----------



## Flanderian

Luca say, "Ciao!" :hi:


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Luca say, "Ciao!" :hi:
> 
> View attachment 47026


Wonderful coat. That's quite a lot going on, on that young man's wrist.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Wonderful coat. That's quite a lot going on, on that young man's wrist.


*Rule 667: *Guys can't wear bangles on their wrist! :fish:

*Catch 22:* Unless you're Luca Rubinacci, Luca can wear anything.


----------



## Fading Fast

Looks familiar, so probably a dupe, but it's such a nice Tweed and well-done combo that I thought I'd post just in case it wasn't.


----------



## Oldsarge

Despite Peak's distaste for women's clothing, I thought this was a very interesting use of the material.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Looks familiar, so probably a dupe, but it's such a nice Tweed and well-done combo that I thought I'd post just in case it wasn't.
> View attachment 47058


I don't think it is a dupe.

*Lovely* tweed and well worn, but I can't past the dinky lapels and fashionably high gorge and button placement. Always just ruins it for me. Wonder if I'll live long enough to see Brit/American fashion change? In much other fashion, lapel widths have become equally *too* wide!


----------



## Flanderian

Luca says, "Ciao!" :hi: -


----------



## ItalianStyle

I think that outfit says *CIAO!!!*


----------



## Oldsarge

Either that or "This baby was owned by a little old lady who only drove it to church".


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 47129


He needs a smaller hat.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 47129


Ahh . . . ! The Balm of Gilead! :icon_hailthee:



Oldsarge said:


> He needs a smaller hat.


Nah! Bigger head!


----------



## Flanderian

W W Chan bespoke hunting kit -


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> W W Chan bespoke hunting kit -


For hunting in the urban jungle, no doubt.


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> For hunting in the urban jungle, no doubt.


That certainly appears to be the abode of the young gentleman sporting it. 👍

As will be seen, he is evidently associated with the venerable W W Chan. Whether a tailor, salesman or some other capacity, these are obviously made for him, and he indulges his fancy. He may be planning a shooting trip to the Scottish moors, or not. I can't say, but if he were, he'd certainly pass muster.


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> W W Chan bespoke hunting kit -
> 
> View attachment 47131
> 
> 
> View attachment 47132
> 
> 
> View attachment 47133


I love the shooting jacket and the vest and if they can cut those Plus 4's with a 31" inseam, I'll take the three piece rig!


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> I love the shooting jacket and the vest and if they can cut those Plus 4's with a 31" inseam, I'll take the three piece rig!


A mighty man indeed to wear Plus 4's with a 31" inseam! 

Climb on a plane, eek whip out your wallet and I'm sure they'll make you whatever you wish.


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> That certainly appears to be the abode of the young gentleman sporting it. 👍
> 
> As will be seen, he is evidently associated with the venerable W W Chan. Whether a tailor, salesman or some other capacity, these are obviously made for him, and he indulges his fancy. He may be planning a shooting trip to the Scottish moors, or not. I can't say, but if he were, he'd certainly pass muster.


He'll need to lay them down on the driveway and run over them a few times. Showing up on the moors in such a spotless rig is the mark of a _nouveau arriviste_. Simply not done, old boy.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> He'll need to lay them down on the driveway and run over them a few times. Showing up on the moors in such a spotless rig is the mark of a _nouveau arriviste_. Simply not done, old boy.


Ah, ha! :idea:


----------



## Fading Fast

Sorry, wish the pic quality was better.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 47166
> 
> Sorry, wish the pic quality was better.


A moody young man, perhaps, but a well dressed one, for sure!


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> A moody young man, perhaps, but a well dressed one, for sure!


The brooding fashion model. I'd bet they teach them that look on the first day of modeling school.


----------



## David J. Cooper

Fading Fast said:


> The brooding fashion model. I'd bet they teach them that look on the first day of modeling school.


I think they were trying for pensive.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> The brooding fashion model. I'd bet they teach them that look on the first day of modeling school.


Blue Steel!


----------



## Flanderian

Luca says, "Ciao!" :hi:

A hunting rig for the Neapolitan moors!?


----------



## Oldsarge

I don't think it's pheasants he's hunting . . .


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> I don't think it's pheasants he's hunting . . .


Whatcha think? :icon_scratch:

Would require he were more seriously shod, for sure. And Naples. lacking both moors and pheasant, would make the task a bit challenging.


----------



## Oldsarge

I think this is another example of spezzatura and he has 'birds' in mind.


----------



## StephenRG

David J. Cooper said:


> I think they were trying for pensive.


"He would contemplate the distance
With a look of pensive meaning,
As of ducks that die in tempests."

(From Lewis Carroll's _Hiawatha's Photographing_)


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 47232


Great suit! 👍


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Great suit! 👍


I almost noted that I thought you would like it when I posted it.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I almost noted that I thought you would like it when I posted it.


I might have accessorized it a bit more exuberantly, but a mature man needs to be more discreet.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian

Luca says, "Ciao!" :hi:


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Love the bold scale of that houndstooth.

⇩ Several Flanderian brown/tan Tweed Herringbones (love the first one's throat latch)








⇩ I'll probably drop this one in the "Ralph" thread as well








⇩ Possible dupe alert (awesome cap and Fair Isle cardigan vest)


----------



## EclecticSr.

^^^^^
Have a JPress suit in the exact same color and pattern as in the first photo, thick and fuzzy.
Haven't worn it yet, had it for years.


----------



## Fading Fast

EclecticSr. said:


> ^^^^^
> Have a JPress suit in the exact same color and pattern as in the first photo, thick and fuzzy.
> Haven't worn it yet, had it for years.


Sounds like a fantastic suit. You live in (checks profile) a cold place in the winter and reasonably near me, any reason you haven't worn it yet?

Have you been to the new Press store on 44th yet?


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Love the bold scale of that houndstooth.
> 
> ⇩ Several Flanderian brown/tan Tweed Herringbones (love the first one's throat latch)
> View attachment 47286
> 
> ⇩ I'll probably drop this one in the "Ralph" thread as well
> View attachment 47287
> 
> ⇩ Possible dupe alert (awesome cap and Fair Isle cardigan vest)
> View attachment 47288


Fantastic sweater vest...it adds interest to the Tweed jacket!


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> Sounds like a fantastic suit. You live in (checks profile) a cold place in the winter and reasonably near me, any reason you haven't worn it yet?
> 
> Have you been to the new Press store on 44th yet?


Got a great deal on it on the the net, confirmed measurements over the phone with SA and sounded perfect and it was at the time. Hung it alongside other garments needing tailoring, well for one reason or another I never got around to it.

I would have to lose considerable amount of weight these days to fit into it, which I will do. 
Being retired and less active and slower metabolism has not been kind.

As far as visiting Press at 44th., no I have not and doubt I will. In the past 15-20 years I have rarely traveled into the city and then out of necessity. I used to love Manhattan.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 47285


A mighty tweed! Reminds me of some cloth from the '70's.



Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Love the bold scale of that houndstooth.
> 
> ⇩ Several Flanderian brown/tan Tweed Herringbones (love the first one's throat latch)
> View attachment 47286
> 
> ⇩ I'll probably drop this one in the "Ralph" thread as well
> View attachment 47287
> 
> ⇩ Possible dupe alert (awesome cap and Fair Isle cardigan vest)
> View attachment 47288


I particularly like the top and bottom jackets! 👍


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> A mighty tweed! Reminds me of some cloth from the '70's.
> 
> I particularly like the top and bottom jackets! 👍


Agreed, those are the standouts. I'm very jealous that @EclecticSr. has a suit of the first material. That's got too look awesome.


----------



## Flanderian

Wool-silk-linen summer tweed -


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> Agreed, those are the standouts. I'm very jealous that @EclecticSr. has a suit of the first material. That's got too look awesome.


Fading, what size are you in suits. I would gladly gift you that suit. The suit is labeled as 41R , unaltered, peak lapel 2 button Harris tweed, trouser waist 35. Model DOR peak lapel, Prestige, slight hacking pockets with ticket pocket. 
.
I doubt I will ever get an opportunity to have it altered no less wear it given my weight gain and at that if even I lose the weight I have so many other garments that would require tailoring that would precede that suit.

If interested contact me via email. This offer is only available to Fading Fast.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Love the bold scale of that houndstooth.
> 
> ⇩ Several Flanderian brown/tan Tweed Herringbones (love the first one's throat latch)
> View attachment 47286
> 
> ⇩ I'll probably drop this one in the "Ralph" thread as well
> View attachment 47287
> 
> ⇩ Possible dupe alert (awesome cap and Fair Isle cardigan vest)
> View attachment 47288


These are all terribly fine but #3 is superb. Of course, I might be influenced by the pipe and pint . . .


----------



## Fading Fast

EclecticSr. said:


> Fading, what size are you in suits. I would gladly gift you that suit. The suit is labeled as 41R , unaltered, peak lapel 2 button Harris tweed, trouser waist 35. Model DOR peak lapel, Prestige, slight hacking pockets with ticket pocket.
> .
> I doubt I will ever get an opportunity to have it altered no less wear it given my weight gain and at that if even I lose the weight I have so many other garments that would require tailoring that would precede that suit.
> 
> If interested contact me via email. This offer is only available to Fading Fast.


That is an incredibly generous offer, but unfortunately (and sadly) won't work as I just fit a 40L and my few attempts to make a 41L or 40R fit have never worked out well. The shoulders in a 41 anything just don't fit.

Even the 40L, if cut on the large size is an issue. The trend to slimmer (not skinny or short) cuts has actually worked in my favor. I even shy away from J.Press as its regular cut 40L requires a lot of tailoring down to kinda fit and still never looks great on me - hence, there are no J.Press suits or sport coats in my closet.

Thank you again - I'm am touched by your offer. I'll be rooting that you, one day, get down to its size, get it tailored and enjoy it.

Best, FF


----------



## Peak and Pine

What an amazing offer Eclectic has made just above. (We pre Baby Boomers, he and I are War Babies, can be very decent if you treat us kindly and feed us regularly.).

About a pic posted earlier today (shown below, without graphics), am curious about the continual posting of pics previously posted, palmed off as fresh finds. (Repeat: _person, woman, man, camera, tv_.)

For your immense enjoyment I'm bringing back the original posting, from last March #3106 along with the original commentary.

_Peak and Pine said...

Personal take:
What you'll see below is perfection in every pixel and should you not agree, I understand for I know the bent this thread can take, a headless zoom on an overstuffed outfit, stripes and plaids and collar pins, pocket squares, sweaters and vests and tweed upon tweed. Fine. But below is not like that...

.









A snow white shirt. You can't go wrong..
Well-worn khakis, a little big, the tightened belt has cinched them giving pleat-like lines in front. Cream and brown h'bone jacket, darted with a hard three stance, buttoning only the top, a 60s touch...for some of us back then...creating a hybrid between a buttoned jacket and an unbuttoned one. Repp tie in a simple two-stripe, quickly tied in a pinch knot and flowing free. And of course the kid's unkempt hair and whimsical look. And no affectation stuffed in the breast pocket.

I dress like that, but of course don't look like that. Once, maybe. But it's a look for all seasons and all ages. Simple, tweedy, comfy. Well worn, but clean with good posture at any age. Pleasant, unaffected, non threatening. When we're done with Social Distancing, surround me with folks in looks like that. I'll do my part._.

Apparently today's poster missed all that a few weeks back.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> That is an incredibly generous offer, but unfortunately (and sadly) won't work as I just fit a 40L and my few attempts to make a 41L or 40R fit have never worked out well. The shoulders in a 41 anything just don't fit.
> 
> Even the 40L, if cut on the large size is an issue. The trend to slimmer (not skinny or short) cuts has actually worked in my favor. I even shy away from J.Press as its regular cut 40L requires a lot of tailoring down to kinda fit and still never looks great on me - hence, there are no J.Press suits or sport coats in my closet.
> 
> Thank you again - I'm am touched by your offer. I'll be rooting that you, one day, get down to its size, get it tailored and enjoy it.
> 
> Best, FF


Ah shame, We'll have to see. Perhaps that day will come. Pity, you seemed so fond of the fabric and pattern.


----------



## Fading Fast

EclecticSr. said:


> Ah shame, We'll have to see. Perhaps that day will come. Pity, you seemed so fond of the fabric and pattern.


Herringbone is my favorite pattern, I have it in everything including socks, sneakers, ties, suits, sport coats, pants, shirts, overcoats, sweaters, scarfs and a few things I'm forgetting. But I don't wear them together - in case you were wondering if I had gone off the deep end.

And thick tweed in a "rustic" suit or sport coat is also a favorite. So, that suit brought a lot to the table for me.

While I've owned a several tweed herringbone suits in my life, I've never really gotten that killer one that had everything I like. I do have a pretty nice Polo one and a surprisingly nice J.Crew one, but neither is "perfect."

Yours looks pretty darn perfect (from a pic that isn't actually your suit - we are all a bit nuts aren't we) and since I have few gray ones, that light brown would be a perfect compliment.

All that said, I struggle to find enough reasons to wear the suits I have, so adding another one would be a bit silly.

Thank you again - you made my day.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> Herringbone is my favorite pattern, I have it in everything including socks, sneakers, ties, suits, sport coats, pants, shirts, overcoats, sweaters, scarfs and a few things I'm forgetting. But I don't wear them together - in case you were wondering if I had gone off the deep end.
> 
> And thick tweed in a "rustic" suit or sport coat is also a favorite. So, that suit brought a lot to the table for me.
> 
> While I've owned a several tweed herringbone suits in my life, I've never really gotten that killer one that had everything I like. I do have a pretty nice Polo one and a surprisingly nice J.Crew one, but neither is "perfect."
> 
> Yours looks pretty darn perfect (from a pic that isn't actually your suit - we are all a bit nuts aren't we) and since I have few gray ones, that light brown would be a perfect compliment.
> 
> All that said, I struggle to find enough reasons to wear the suits I have, so adding another one would be a bit silly.
> 
> Thank you again - you made my day.


Wish I could have totally made your day. Your kind words along with Peak and Pine made my day.


----------



## Flanderian

Obviously, not a tweed, but rather tartan inspired plaid shirting, these from Acorn fabrics.

Love 'em with tweeds, many serve well even with a tie of the proper sort; solid wool knit or a discreet wool challis. The 2nd down Black Watch inspired plaid would serve handsomely in that role. The top would be more challenging, but I could see it with a black crochet knit wool worn on a grey herringbone.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Obviously, not a tweed, but rather tartan inspired plaid shirting, these from Acorn fabrics.
> 
> Love 'em with tweeds, many serve well even with a tie of the proper sort; solid wool knit or a discreet wool challis. The 2nd down Black Watch inspired plaid would serve handsomely in that role. The top would be more challenging, but I could see it with a black crochet knit wool worn on a grey herringbone.
> 
> View attachment 47324


Back when I was younger and Tweed and corduroy sport coats were worn frequently to casual events, I had a few ties just as you described for those sport coast as they go so well together.

Sometimes, I wish I still had some items that I'm reminded of at AAAC and even think, "hey, I should look for a few ties like that," and then remember how our world just doesn't call for those outfits anymore.

I had Bean (I think), Orvis, BB, Rooster and Polo versions of those ties over the years (and probably a few brands I'm forgetting).


----------



## Flanderian

Ah . . . . but the world is as we choose to live in it! :icon_saint7kg:

That's why much of my wardrobe is 15 - 20 years young!


----------



## never behind

Flanderian said:


> Obviously, not a tweed, but rather tartan inspired plaid shirting, these from Acorn fabrics.
> 
> Love 'em with tweeds, many serve well even with a tie of the proper sort; solid wool knit or a discreet wool challis. The 2nd down Black Watch inspired plaid would serve handsomely in that role. The top would be more challenging, but I could see it with a black crochet knit wool worn on a grey herringbone.
> 
> View attachment 47324


Bottom one is Douglas tartan. Jamais arriere!


----------



## Peak and Pine

Gilet. No it's not _jil'it. _It's zhee'lay. You wanna speak the French, you come to me . _Moh d'lahn_? Cut the grass. Anyway below, a tweed gilet. You wear when it's cold, under a jacket, but only if you're as interested in looking good as you are in keeping from freezing. Yuht.


----------



## Fading Fast

I meant to post this a day or two ago when I posted about the 1947 movie "The Long Night" (comments here: #409 ). A factory worker, played by Henry Fonda, wears the below herringbone Tweed sport coat, tie and wool, maybe Tweed, cap for a night out with his girl (Barbara Bel Geddes).

I have a feeling better pics are out there, but this is the best one I could find of his outfit. My nephews, all around Fonda's movie age, don't even own sport coats (that I know of) and go out with their girlfriends in hoodies or puffers, etc., plus jeans. Note also, Ms. Bel Geddes very cool Polo coat.


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Ah . . . . but the world is as we chose to live in it! :icon_saint7kg:
> 
> That's why much of my wardrobe is 15 - 20 years young!


A valuable lesson to be learned, for sure! I prefer to have my clothes looking as vintage as I might feel.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I meant to post this a day or two ago when I posted about the 1947 movie "The Long Night" (comments here: #409 ). A factory worker, played by Henry Fonda, wears the below herringbone Tweed sport coat, tie and wool, maybe Tweed, cap for a night out with his girl (Barbara Bel Geddes).
> 
> I have a feeling better pics are out there, but this is the best one I could find of his outfit. My nephews, all around Fonda's movie age, don't even own sport coats (that I know of) and go out with their girlfriends in hoodies or puffers, etc., plus jeans. Note also, Ms. Bel Geddes very cool Polo coat.
> View attachment 47338


Great clothes! What is that, a 30 oz tweed!? :loveyou:

And very skillful photo.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Great clothes! What is that, a 30 oz tweed!? :loveyou:
> 
> And very skillful photo.


Agreed wonderful pic and wonderful looking heavy Tweed. Also, amazing that there was a time when a factory worker would dress like that for a normal date - it was not a fancy or special night out.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Agreed wonderful pic and wonderful looking heavy Tweed. Also, amazing that there was a time when a factory worker would dress like that for a normal date - it was not a fancy or special night out.


Doesn't everyone!? 

I actually remember a time, though likely slightly later, when they might. Though the quality and style of these duds are several atmospheres above what might be typical of the time and place.


----------



## Flanderian

Wool and linen summer tweed -


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Wool and linen summer tweed -
> 
> View attachment 47348


I could see @eagle2250 wearing this to take Mrs. Eagle out to a nice dinner on a mild Florida winter night


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I could see @eagle2250 wearing this to take Mrs. Eagle out to a nice dinner on a mild Florida winter night


But shouldn't you ask Eagle first!?


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> But shouldn't you ask Eagle first!?


Agreed. Eagle?


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Agreed. Eagle?


:idea:

:laughing:


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> But shouldn't you ask Eagle first!?





Fading Fast said:


> Agreed. Eagle?


It sounds like darned good sartorial advice to me, but I think I will wait until we can walk into the restaurant without a mask on. Although a mask does add mystery to a dinner date! LOL.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 47390


That is one darned handsome suit, for sure! (note to self: Don't bring up the pocket square and beat a dead horse!) LOL.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 47383


I'm gong to guess the shot is of P&P. A simple closeup of trouser cuffs and shoes.
Within that photo is a great deal to be learned. Wide cuff on a substantial tweed, lends weight which in turn provides a smooth trouser line, I'd say cuff width a min. of 2". A tall person can benefit from this. Shorter person would have to adjust cuff width.

I don't know the leg opening size, but for me the wider the opening I would lengthen the inseam as to just touch the shoe without causing a break, the narrower , decrease inseam as in the photo. One day he or I will come up with the solution as to how to create a cadet turn up cuff without advanced surgery.

Now, as to the shoes, I'm guessing Aldens or AE, a light sanding along the lower edge, say 220 followed by 320 then apply sole dressing let dry, wipe off excess and follow by a wax rubbed in and buff, apply second wax coating if needed. Those puppies will look like the day they came out of the box. 

So much to be learned.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 47390


Nice tweed, but I still have difficulty with its contemporary cut. Not egregious, just not what I prefer.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 47397


This post ⇧ somehow jarred a memory I had of Keith Richards wearing a similar sport coat in the '60s.

I'm pretty sure there's a color photo out there showing more of the jacket, I just couldn't find it today (the turtleneck is blue if my memory is on - always questionable).

Clearly, Keith's jacket's pattern is bolder and only marginally similar, but hey, it was all from memory. The funny thing is, the Stones, in the early '60s, wore some pretty cool Trad clothes.


----------



## Peak and Pine

EclecticSr. said:


> I'm gong to guess the shot is of P&P.


.
Nay. But only because I've never taken a picture of just my legs. But I'll make that a New Year's resolution.

A thoughtful disection, Eclectic. I have those pants. 9-inch width. I have that cuff. 1 3/4 inch high. I have only one pair of Alden, but I do have mahogany tassel slips. I, like you, would lower the hem about 3/8ths (only in the back and only if I knew how.). And, no kidding here, I have 2-inch galvanized washers in fitted pouches, two per leg, (removeable for wash and ironing) for hold-down weight, an eccentric experiment which appears to help, only on two pair, so far.


----------



## Oldsarge

Interesting concept.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> This post ⇧ somehow jarred a memory I had of Keith Richards wearing a similar sport coat in the '60s.
> 
> I'm pretty sure there's a color photo out there showing more of the jacket, I just couldn't find it today (the turtleneck is blue if my memory is on - always questionable).
> 
> Clearly, Keith's jacket's pattern is bolder and only marginally similar, but hey, it was all from memory. The funny thing is, the Stones, in the early '60s, wore some pretty cool Trad clothes.
> 
> View attachment 47403


I don't think the Stones jacket equates with what Flanderian posted; his a conventional glen plaid, Richard's an exaggerated semi-cartoon. Which I like, and while I don't know the color, I have a version in strawberry that I'm currently fiddling with, a pic below showing the installation of belt-size size side adjusters that will button in the back...










The pattern matching is a b**** and I keep getting the pieces upside down and/or reversed which is why you see the green UP arrows, each with a R or L.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> This post ⇧ somehow jarred a memory I had of Keith Richards wearing a similar sport coat in the '60s.
> 
> I'm pretty sure there's a color photo out there showing more of the jacket, I just couldn't find it today (the turtleneck is blue if my memory is on - always questionable).
> 
> Clearly, Keith's jacket's pattern is bolder and only marginally similar, but hey, it was all from memory. The funny thing is, the Stones, in the early '60s, wore some pretty cool Trad clothes.
> 
> View attachment 47403


Nice jacket, cool photo! 👍


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Nice jacket, cool photo! 👍


As noted in my post, not nearly as close as I thought it was from memory, but still cool. It's funny how one pic can jar a pretty old memory. Also, purely from memory, there's a color photo out there somewhere - the jacket is black and white and the turtleneck blue, I think.

I like the blue stripe "in the background" of your jacket. It's subtle, but effective.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Peak and Pine said:


> .
> Nay. But only because I've never taken a picture of just my legs. But I'll make that a New Year's resolution.
> 
> A thoughtful disection, Eclectic. I have those pants. 9-inch width. I have that cuff. 1 3/4 inch high. I have only one pair of Alden, but I do have mahogany tassel slips. I, like you, would lower the hem about 3/8ths (only in the back and only if I knew how.). And, no kidding here, I have 2-inch galvanized washers in fitted pouches, two per leg, (removeable for wash and ironing) for hold-down weight, an eccentric experiment which appears to help, only on two pair, so far.


Not so eccentric. Then there's the button up turn ups which can be unbuttoned to remove settling debris that can gather in the fold.

I took a guess, missed, but still I think a worthwhile discussion to point out some of the finer points
of tailoring that gets less attention
.


----------



## Peak and Pine

This could also rent space in the Ralph Lauren thread...










And nice to see it at table rest, rather than wrapped around a 20 year-old pretty boy.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## StephenRG

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 47447


Is that actually tweed? Or just a plaid pattern?


----------



## Fading Fast

StephenRG said:


> Is that actually tweed? Or just a plaid pattern?


Good question as I had the same thought. The caption on the pic when I found it said Harris Tweed, so I went with it.

But since you asked, I also just went over to Studio Suits website and, while I couldn't find this exact suit, it is very similar to several Harris Tweeds it has in stock.


----------



## Flanderian

W W Chan bespoke. I like all 3 items on the form individually, and as an eye-catching display it certainly succeeds. But I find the handsome DB molekin/flannel vest and kelly green tie at odds with what is otherwise styling straight from American sportswear vernacular.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> W W Chan bespoke. I like all 3 items on the form individually, and as an eye-catching display it certainly succeeds. But I find the handsome DB molekin/flannel vest and kelly green tie at odds with what is otherwise styling straight from American sportswear vernacular.
> 
> View attachment 47457
> 
> 
> View attachment 47458
> 
> 
> View attachment 47459
> 
> 
> View attachment 47460


I've always wondered what my grey-herringbone Tweed sport coat would look like if I had mega money.

Take out its darts and it checks most boxes I have for that sport coat.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I've always wondered what my grey-herringbone Tweed sport coat would look like if I had mega money.
> 
> Take out its darts and it checks most boxes I have for that sport coat.


It certainly would look good as you suggest. But I'm not a pure TNSIL guy, and prefer darts. I believe W W Chan's original aesthetic orientation was conservative versions of classic English tailoring. (*Not* contemporary!) and I'd find this cut pretty close to my ideal, though I'd wish slightly less waist suppression and a bit less shoulder.

I like the idea of both the tie and vest, I'd simply wish to change them up a bit. The tie looks as if it might be cashmere, and I'd rather a finer woven tweed in a bit softer green. The vest color is great, but I find the execution a bit too formal for the jacket, and would prefer something like a sleeveless cardigan, such as the handsome one below from O'Connell's.


----------



## Peak and Pine

The last outfit posted, and repeated in full below, is an as-is find. Personal taste can pick it apart til the cows come home, but not from this quarter. Would have liked to have seen it with shirt, will imagine a white one. Then you'd have a full-on dark Spumone. Delicious in this 90° heat. In Maine no less. Hand me a spoon. Pretend the pants are deep charcoal.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> It certainly would look good as you suggest. But I'm not a pure TNSIL guy, and prefer darts. I believe W W Chan's original aesthetic orientation was conservative versions of classic English tailoring. (*Not* contemporary!) and I'd find this cut pretty close to my ideal, though I'd wish slightly less waist suppression and a bit less shoulder.
> 
> I like the idea of both the tie and vest, I'd simply wish to change them up a bit. The tie looks as if it might be cashmere, and I'd rather a finer woven tweed in a bit softer green. The vest color is great, but I find the execution a bit too formal for the jacket, and would prefer something like a sleeveless cardigan, such as the handsome one below from O'Connell's.
> 
> View attachment 47462


I agree completely on the vest - the other one's aesthetic is off to my eye, the cardigan is perfect.

And to be honest, darts are not a deal breaker for me, just prefer no-darts better. Most of my sport coats and suits are RTW or MTM darted. And with my frame, unless the cut is right and tailor skilled, the sack can look too big on me anyway.

So, what I'm saying is, if you are wondering what to get me for Christmas, the W W Chan sport coat would be perfect.


----------



## never behind

I bought a basic grey herringbone HT off eBay. It's in very good shape. I'd prefer to provide a nicer picture, but honestly I'm too lazy to get dressed to do it. Blame Covid. Maybe this winter I can post some in the WAYWT thread!


----------



## Peak and Pine

Some here may overlook the following for lack of cardigan, bow tie, bold striped shirt, rainbow square, Fair Isle, collar pin, contrasting collar, cuff links, the _Last Supper_ woven into the cloth, whatever. Gussiest up this isn't. Simple. Straight forward. Left wanting similar to climb into. C'est francais. A grail piece.










The shirt is barely lavender. Or I'm pretending it is.


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> Some here may overlook the following for lack of cardigan, bow tie, bold striped shirt, rainbow square, Fair Isle, collar pin, contrasting collar, cuff links, the _Last Supper_ woven into the cloth, whatever. Gussiest up this isn't. Simple. Straight forward. Left wanting similar to climb into. C'est francais. A grail piece.
> 
> View attachment 47487
> 
> 
> The shirt is barely lavender. Or I'm pretending it is.


My taste would run more to peach but either way . . . Wow!


----------



## Flanderian

never behind said:


> I bought a basic grey herringbone HT off eBay. It's in very good shape. I'd prefer to provide a nicer picture, but honestly I'm too lazy to get dressed to do it. Blame Covid. Maybe this winter I can post some in the WAYWT thread!
> View attachment 47476
> 
> View attachment 47477


Pretty darn nice, IMO. Frankly, I'm a little envious! :beer:


----------



## Fading Fast

The caption said Donegal Tweed but no more.

That is a man wearing a suit.

I could be wrong, but I think that is Park Avenue in the background. Next time I get over there (not moving around the city like I used to pre-pandemic), I'll look to see if the building to the left that I think is still there is the one I have in mind.


----------



## Flanderian

Luca says, "Ciao! :hi:

Luca closes the circle expressing his inner Apparel Arts/Esquire circa 1938. Fashions change, but style endures.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Luca says, "Ciao! :hi:
> 
> Luca closes the circle expressing his inner Apparel Arts/Esquire circa 1938. Fashions change, but style endures.
> 
> View attachment 47501
> 
> 
> View attachment 47502


Love it. Beautiful suit and good job by you on tying it back to AA. I remember that AA pic only because I have a ridiculous passion for bold grey herringbone suits.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 47494
> 
> The caption said Donegal Tweed but no more.
> 
> That is a man wearing a suit.
> 
> I could be wrong, but I think that is Park Avenue in the background. Next time I get over there (not moving around the city like I used to pre-pandemic), I'll look to see if the building to the left that I think is still there is the one I have in mind.


Pretty sure that's Bugsy's buddy -

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/George_Raft


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Pretty sure that's Bugsy's buddy -
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/George_Raft


Could be. Face looks a bit thin for Raft, but I'm no expert. You could be spot on.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Love it. Beautiful suit and good job by you on tying it back to AA. I remember that AA pic only because I have a ridiculous passion for bold grey herringbone suits.


Thank you.

I was immediately put in mind of one of my favorite 1938 AA/Esky illustrations upon seeing the Rubinacci photo. While some details are obviously different, so many are surprisingly the same, but it is most astounding (And reassuring.) that after 82 years the _*feel*_ of each is so similar. Good doesn't go away.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Pretty sure that's Bugsy's buddy -
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/George_Raft


You piqued my curiosity, so I did a Google image search (should have done that right away) and, while it brought up a lot of hits, none identified the pic as being of Raft and several gave the impression that it was a fashion image in its day. Still could be Raft, but can't find an evidence yet.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Could be. Face looks a bit thin for Raft, but I'm no expert. You could be spot on.


----------



## Fading Fast

On mute in the background on TCM right now is the outstanding 1945 British film "Brief Encounter."

There are a lot of cool clothes in it (note the overcoats in the pics below) including several neat Tweeds back when Tweeds were just regular-people clothing.

So far, these are the best pics I could find. Her suit is outstanding and looks better on screen than in the pics.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 47513
> 
> 
> View attachment 47514


You're making a very solid case. No question they look alike and that could be him. I'm just surprised that, while I can find many copies of the pic, so far, I can't find one that identifies it as being Raft. He was a pretty famous film star at the time and this seems to be a well-known pic - it's surprising I can't put the two together.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Luca says, "Ciao! :hi:
> 
> Luca closes the circle expressing his inner Apparel Arts/Esquire circa 1938. Fashions change, but style endures.
> 
> View attachment 47501
> 
> 
> View attachment 47502


Dear Flanderian Santa,

I hope your summer is going well and you and Mrs. Claus are being safe.

I know that recently I asked for the W W Chan sport coat for Christmas, but having now seen the "Luca" herringbone suit, I want to change my wish.

To be sure, I'll be happy with either (or both  ), but since the suit is now at the top of my list, I wanted to get to you before the elves start cutting a pattern.

Stay well, see you in December,

FF


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> On mute in the background on TCM right now is the outstanding 1945 British film "Brief Encounter."
> 
> There are a lot of cool clothes in it (note the overcoats in the pics below) including several neat Tweeds back when Tweeds were just regular-people clothing.
> 
> So far, these are the best pics I could find. Her suit is outstanding and looks better on screen than in the pics.
> 
> View attachment 47515
> 
> View attachment 47516
> 
> View attachment 47517
> View attachment 47518
> 
> View attachment 47519


Marvelous clothing! Most of these look to be publicity "stills" from the films, and the photography is typically exceptional. Really talented people making and promoting these films.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Marvelous clothing! Most of these look to be publicity "stills" from the films, and the photography is typically exceptional. Really talented people making and promoting these films.


Absolutely. As you've said, they really truly cared about the choice and tailoring of the clothes in movies back then. And the stills usually have incredible detail. I've seen the movie several times and was busy with work, so I only looked up now and then, but almost every time I was impressed with the clothing.


----------



## Peak and Pine

You can end the hunt for George Raft authentification. It's not George Raft. Simple as that.

Back to the pics of current tweed, and a suggestion: start a separate thread where all those old movie tweeds can be dumped. I won't be bothering anyone in that one..


----------



## 215339

Flanderian said:


> Luca says, "Ciao! :hi:
> 
> Luca closes the circle expressing his inner Apparel Arts/Esquire circa 1938. Fashions change, but style endures.
> 
> View attachment 47501
> 
> 
> View attachment 47502


It's arguable that most of us are into a particular fashion of a particular decade though


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


>


Not a huge houndstooth fan, but can't deny that this ⇧ is an impressive jacket.

Our friend Leslie Howard would agree.








As Flanderian noted with the "Luca" suit, some of these modern clothes have clear '30s/Apparel Arts progenitors. I couldn't find a full shot of this coat, but the close-up does show off some handsome details.


----------



## Fading Fast

I like it. I'd prefer a slightly wider cut and I'd have gone with cuffs both because it helps "straighten" the line of heavy Tweeds like these and I think it provides a nicer "finish" to the bottom of the trousers.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Punked tweed. Little here unlikeable.










A 20-something slides into this with ease. Whaddabout a 70 plus, a thin one with okay posture. Laughable? Dunno, working on it. With a fuller cut jean, no back pack, no iPod. Are you like me, can't picture yourself in anything, so you come up with someone you think looks like you, a celeb or a stranger and you picture them in whatever it is that's on, or drools from, your mind? Hopper, Pacino, Eames at the pharmacy, I've used them. Bohemian with only toes on common ground, but rooted nonetheless. No fried out gray hair in a pony tail riding a Harley in sleeveless leather or pipe smoking wizened gent who at last got him a 'Vette. No. Just a stroller of a country road. Humming replacing iPod, watch stuffed in pocket, doesn't care for the time, dressed as above, maybe dirtier but smelling good.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 47553
> 
> I like it. I'd prefer a slightly wider cut and I'd have gone with cuffs both because it helps "straighten" the line of heavy Tweeds like these and I think it provides a nicer "finish" to the bottom of the trousers.


Agreed on both counts, but not a bad pair of trousers. In addition to modifications, I'd rather double forward-facing. and a 1/2" or so longer inseam.


----------



## Flanderian

For any fellow check-aholics!


----------



## ran23

too bad it is 103 today.


----------



## eagle2250

ran23 said:


> too bad it is 103 today.


I'm impressed...your 103 degree high temp beat our paltry 90 degree high temp by a resounding 13 degrees; but our 89% humidity for the day made it feel like it was close to 100 degrees! That's got to count for something, eh? In any event, Tweeds are definitely out for this day! LOL.


----------



## never behind

ran23 said:


> too bad it is 103 today.


One day. One day we can wear the tweeds and flannels!!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 47591


Love the jacket and am pleasantly surprised at how well the charcoal coordinates with the earth tones incorporated in the rig. Wish we could see a bit more detail on the Fedora.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## EclecticSr.

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 47595


As most might have guessed by now I'm a fan of squares. In this case though I agree with P&P, too poufy poufy.

The 2 things that I like about this rig are, shirt and hat. My guess that the hat is a Biltmore suede finish with self band.

No idea about the shirt except I have quite few like it.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 47591


Marvelous display ensemble. I typically don't find tweed on tweed desirable, but here the deft management of color, pattern and texture contrasts works rather well.

👍


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Marvelous display ensemble. I typically don't find tweed on tweed desirable, but here the deft management of color, pattern and texture contrasts works rather well.
> 
> 👍


I thought of you when I saw the tweed on tweed.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I thought of you when I saw the tweed on tweed.


Ah, notorious!


----------



## Flanderian

W W Chan bespoke tartan tweed vest -


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Interesting. Well made. The pattern is tattersall, like the shirt. But unlike the shirt, and most tattersalls, one of the two striping colors is more dominant than the other, way more dominant. Unusual, to me. Will have to think about this. I'm leaning toward liking.


----------



## Peak and Pine

I was preparing a little something for the Photos For No Good Reason thread entitled _The Day The Japanese Discovered Chucks, _when I noticed madame is wearing a skirt of the same pattern as the Chan vest posted above.










So now I've seen this pattern twice. Since tattersall consists of two-color stripes forming overlaping squares, and the pattern here and in the vest are rectangles, there may be another name for this. My knowledge of pattern names is similar to my knowledge of Portuguese.


----------



## Flanderian

Real men wear teal tweed! irate:


----------



## Fading Fast

Grey Herringbone Shetland Tweed Jacket from Tweed Addict


----------



## eagle2250

[/QUOTE]


Flanderian said:


> Real men wear teal tweed! irate:
> 
> View attachment 47661


It seems to be good to (almost) be the King...someday!


----------



## FiscalDean

A cloth maker known for it's flannels is getting into the tweed business.

https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/collections/fox-tweed?mc_cid=d91ceef7fc&mc_eid=3636932277


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Grey Herringbone Shetland Tweed Jacket from Tweed Addict
> View attachment 47662
> 
> View attachment 47664
> View attachment 47663


Nice tweed! Normal reservations concerning cuts and wearing pertain.  I think the lass is the best turned out of the bunch! 👍



FiscalDean said:


> A cloth maker known for it's flannels is getting into the tweed business.
> 
> https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/collections/fox-tweed?mc_cid=d91ceef7fc&mc_eid=3636932277


They've a nice small selection. I wonder if they weave the tweed themselves, or get it from other mills. There's plenty of tweed to still be found in the UK.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 47710


⇧ That's a handsome looking garment. It just looks well made.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 47710


Lovely photo! 👍


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 47710


Her horse has the classic head and face of an Arab, but it appears she is using it in the role of a pack mule...or is the horse into fishing , headed to the lake and that wicker thing is the worlds second largest fishing creel? :icon_scratch:


----------



## EclecticSr.

eagle2250 said:


> Her horse has the classic head and face of an Arab, but it appears she is using it in the role of a pack mule...or is the horse into fishing , headed to the lake and that wicker thing is the worlds second largest fishing creel? :icon_scratch:


 I doubt Arabian, they have longer more slender head, who would dare use as a pack horse.


----------



## eagle2250

EclecticSr. said:


> I doubt Arabian, they have longer more slender head, who would dare use as a pack horse.


LOL, I've got to work with what I'm given. My assessment of breed was based on the cupping of the face and what appears to be a short back.


----------



## Oldsarge

EclecticSr. said:


> I doubt Arabian, they have longer more slender head, who would dare use as a pack horse.


Well, possibly an Arab? When that's what you have, that's what you use--in addition to camels, I guess.


----------



## EclecticSr.

My guess, Irish/Scotch farm pony. I would like to meet the person owning a pure bred Arabian to use as a pack horseirate:. Let's ask Wayne Newton .


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 47719


Beautifully made of gorgeous tweed, but the cut makes me want to throw it to ground and stomp on it for such a waste of fine cloth and skilled making Will the Brit's ever abandon the dinky lapels and shoulder top gorges!? 
ic12337:


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Beautifully made of gorgeous tweed, but the cut makes me want to throw it to ground and stomp on it for such a waste of fine cloth and skilled making Will the Brit's ever abandon the dinky lapels and shoulder top gorges!?
> ic12337:


It's so extreme here that it almost feels 1920s.

But it has one of my favorite little details of all - suit pants with a button fly.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> It's so extreme here that it almost feels 1920s.
> 
> But it has one of my favorite little details of all - suit pants with a button fly.


While their convenience may debated, they're a handsome touch of handwork. Now tell me the trousers don't have 5" rise!? (Which is only a slight exaggeration of contemporary Brit/American fashion.) :fool:


----------



## Flanderian

Luca says, "Chiao!" :hi: -


----------



## fishertw

Oldsarge said:


> He needs a smaller hat.


and a much longer neck


----------



## Fading Fast

Some Sunday odds and ends.


----------



## David J. Cooper

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 47710


She still has a tag on the sleeve. Perhaps she plans to return it?


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Which I don't think she can now that
Mr. Ed has slobbered all over it.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Some Sunday odds and ends.
> View attachment 47769
> View attachment 47770
> View attachment 47771


The bottom one reminds me a bit of a suit I had in the '70's. But just a bit too much lapel. Note to I-Gents: (No, not you FF. :hi The antidote to ridiculously skinny lapels, *isn't* ridiculously brobdingnagian ones!


----------



## Flanderian

Summer tweed -


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Summer tweed -
> 
> View attachment 47790


Ahem, @eagle2250


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Summer tweed -
> 
> View attachment 47790





Fading Fast said:


> Ahem, @eagle2250


....and a well earned thanks to both of you for a very timely heads up. Perhaps there will be a fair weather Tweed in my future! LOL.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> ....and a well earned thanks to both of you for a very timely heads up. Perhaps there will be a fair weather Tweed in my future! LOL.


Maybe it's even waterproof!


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Maybe it's even waterproof!


That would be really handy for later this afternoon! LOL. So far we've had just two short bursts of heavy rain...but I doubt it was part of the storm front.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> That would be really handy for later this afternoon! LOL. So far we've had just two short bursts of heavy rain...but I doubt it was part of the storm front.


My limited FLA experience is that you could have a reasonably bright future as a FLA weatherman simply by saying, every single day, "there is a chance of a brief late-afternoon shower."


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> That would be really handy for later this afternoon! LOL. So far we've had just two short bursts of heavy rain...but I doubt it was part of the storm front.


Knock-on-wood! :fool:

As such things go, I've seen worse -










Let's hope it stays that way! 🤞


----------



## Fading Fast

BASKET WEAVE GRAY TWEED SUIT*







*


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> BASKET WEAVE GRAY TWEED SUIT*
> View attachment 47823
> *


Great tweed! 👍

(Dinky lapels and shoulder top gorge. 😢)


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Crisp, well-made, elegant.


----------



## FiscalDean

Flanderian said:


> Nice tweed! Normal reservations concerning cuts and wearing pertain.  I think the lass is the best turned out of the bunch! 👍
> 
> They've a nice small selection. I wonder if they weave the tweed themselves, or get it from other mills. There's plenty of tweed to still be found in the UK.


Fox Brothers weaves their tweed in the town of Wellington. They weigh in at a hefty 17 - 18 oz., which for me isn't too bad given all the blood thinners I take.


----------



## Fading Fast

FiscalDean said:


> Fox Brothers weaves their tweed in the town of Wellington. They weigh in at a hefty 17 - 18 oz., which for me isn't too bad given all the blood thinners I take.


LOL


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 47928


Not a fan of pairing blue jeans with a Tweed jacket and vest, but that is a striking photograph of an intense youg man contemplating his next trip on the rails!  Nice shot...effective!


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Not a fan of pairing blue jeans with a Tweed jacket and vest, but that is a striking photograph of an intense youg man contemplating his next trip on the rails!  Nice shot...effective!


Agreed, it's an impressive photo that, if you are young and lack experience, could make you want to buy his clothes as you don't yet have an understanding of what clothes work for you versus what looks good on an idealized man in an idealized setting.

Or, said another way, I am old enough to know that no items of clothing, in any combination, will transmogrify my average-guy looks into that guy's.


----------



## Flanderian

FiscalDean said:


> Fox Brothers weaves their tweed in the town of Wellington. They weigh in at a hefty 17 - 18 oz., which for me isn't too bad given all the blood thinners I take.


Thank you, sir!


----------



## Flanderian

W W Chan Holland & Sherry tweed, ready for final try-on -


----------



## 215339

Thinking of getting an overcoat made in a fabric that basically looks like that.

How versatile would it be in terms of colour? I dress very casually. Most of my pants are various shades of khaki and some khaki corduroys too. I have some dark and light wash jeans as well. Some camel moleskins and dark green ones as well.

I have a rust mid-brown overcoat as well.

Shoes I own are: chocolate suede chelsea boots, oxblood/chili derby shoes.

I had a mid-blue linen safari jacket made and it's probably the least versatile item I own, so I'm wary.


----------



## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> Thinking of getting an overcoat made in a fabric that basically looks like that.
> 
> How versatile would it be in terms of colour? I dress very casually. Most of my pants are various shades of khaki and some khaki corduroys too. I have some dark and light wash jeans as well. Some camel moleskins and dark green ones as well.
> 
> I have a rust mid-brown overcoat as well.
> 
> Shoes I own are: chocolate suede chelsea boots, oxblood/chili derby shoes.
> 
> I had a mid-blue linen safari jacket made and it's probably the least versatile item I own, so I'm wary.


It's hard to pick from a swatch even though that's how MTM and custom work unless you get lucky and can see a bolt of the fabric or, even better, a garment already made from the fabric (I've had that happen with Polo MTM occasionally - it's very, very helpful).

I find that the way a swatch of fabric looks and "plays" with light can be different from how an overcoat or suit made from the same fabric looks and "plays." It's part of the reason why my favorite way to buy clothes is OTR that can be very well tailored. Unfortunately, it's not always easy to find what you want that way; hence, MTM and custom.

Okay, with that said, and since you asked, my concern is that the fabric posted might have too much medium blue in it to be a very flexible overcoat. To be sure, if you want a medium blue overcoat, then all is good. I prefer my overcoats to be more quiet (greys or navy) since I usually wear the one or two I have almost every day / every other day in the winter. Hence, I don't want them to be that noticeable and they have to work with my entire wardrobe.

As to versatile, I've found medium blues less generically "matchable" than navy or grey - it seems you've had the same experience with your safari jacket. It's hard to say why, but I've owned a few medium blue sport coats over the years and had to build an outfit around them, versus with a navy or gray sport coat, I usually could put it on (especially the grey ones) over almost anything.

To be sure, I think an overcoat made from your fabric would be an impressive looking coat - a bit different, but not extreme. I know you mentioned you had a rust mid-brown overcoat, so you need to think if that one plus your new blue one will cover all your needs.

I usually have (and have now) two overcoats: one a charcoal grey (small-scale) herringbone that, pretty much, goes with everything and, in particular, looks spot on with suits, while the other overcoat is a light grey (larger scale) herringbone that is more "sporty" and looks, IMO, better than the charcoal one with more casual outfits like chinos or jeans. Because both are grey, they work well with almost everything else I own.

Thus, I kinda think of the charcoal grey herringbone overcoat as my "must have," and my light grey one as the "fun" one. So for you, do you think your brown and potential new blue one will cover all your needs? Hope all this helps.


----------



## Fading Fast

Another day of this guy and a very narrow-lapel and crazy high-gorge sport coat. That said, I like the outfit away from the sport coat details just noted. The three materials look good together.


----------



## BillC

delicious_scent said:


> Thinking of getting an overcoat made in a fabric that basically looks like that.
> 
> How versatile would it be in terms of colour? I dress very casually. Most of my pants are various shades of khaki and some khaki corduroys too. I have some dark and light wash jeans as well. Some camel moleskins and dark green ones as well.
> 
> I have a rust mid-brown overcoat as well.
> 
> Shoes I own are: chocolate suede chelsea boots, oxblood/chili derby shoes.
> 
> I had a mid-blue linen safari jacket made and it's probably the least versatile item I own, so I'm wary.


I would encourage you to think double breasted. It looks very sharp. In the winter when the high is in the 40s or 50s, I occasionally wear a db overcoat with a sweater vest underneath but no jacket. It works great. Enjoy BillC


----------



## Flanderian

delicious_scent said:


> Thinking of getting an overcoat made in a fabric that basically looks like that.
> 
> How versatile would it be in terms of colour? I dress very casually. Most of my pants are various shades of khaki and some khaki corduroys too. I have some dark and light wash jeans as well. Some camel moleskins and dark green ones as well.
> 
> I have a rust mid-brown overcoat as well.
> 
> Shoes I own are: chocolate suede chelsea boots, oxblood/chili derby shoes.
> 
> I had a mid-blue linen safari jacket made and it's probably the least versatile item I own, so I'm wary.


That's a beautiful tweed! :loveyou:

It's sounds to me as if you intend to wear this coat as a more casual coat, rather than in the more traditional mode as a longer coat over suits and sport jackets, and that can change the suitability of the cloth compared to such traditional uses.

It's a vivid shade that will stand out, more vivid typically means more casual. And while it will pop when worn with some items, it will require a bit more care when considered for wear with others. More muted cloth is more universally versatile. Traditional shades for overcoats are medium to dark grey, camel, taupe and navy. If versatility is your goal, they will serve your needs better precisely because they are less eye-catching than the handsome tweed to depicted.


----------



## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> It's hard to pick from a swatch even though that's how MTM and custom work unless you get lucky and can see a bolt of the fabric or, even better, a garment already made from the fabric (I've had that happen with Polo MTM occasionally - it's very, very helpful).
> 
> I find that the way a swatch of fabric looks and "plays" with light can be different from how an overcoat or suit made from the same fabric looks and "plays." It's part of the reason why my favorite way to buy clothes is OTR that can be very well tailored. Unfortunately, it's not always easy to find what you want that way; hence, MTM and custom.
> 
> Okay, with that said, and since you asked, my concern is that the fabric posted might have too much medium blue in it to be a very flexible overcoat. To be sure, if you want a medium blue overcoat, then all is good. I prefer my overcoats to be more quiet (greys or navy) since I usually wear the one or two I have almost every day / every other day in the winter. Hence, I don't want them to be that noticeable and they have to work with my entire wardrobe.
> 
> As to versatile, I've found medium blues less generically "matchable" than navy or grey - it seems you've had the same experience with your safari jacket. It's hard to say why, but I've owned a few medium blue sport coats over the years and had to build an outfit around them, versus with a navy or gray sport coat, I usually could put it on (especially the grey ones) over almost anything.
> 
> To be sure, I think an overcoat made from your fabric would be an impressive looking coat - a bit different, but not extreme. I know you mentioned you had a rust mid-brown overcoat, so you need to think if that one plus your new blue one will cover all your needs.
> 
> I usually have (and have now) two overcoats: one a charcoal grey (small-scale) herringbone that, pretty much, goes with everything and, in particular, looks spot on with suits, while the other overcoat is a light grey (larger scale) herringbone that is more "sporty" and looks, IMO, better than the charcoal one with more casual outfits like chinos or jeans. Because both are grey, they work well with almost everything else I own.
> 
> Thus, I kinda think of the charcoal grey herringbone overcoat as my "must have," and my light grey one as the "fun" one. So for you, do you think your brown and potential new blue one will cover all your needs? Hope all this helps.





BillC said:


> I would encourage you to think double breasted. It looks very sharp. In the winter when the high is in the 40s or 50s, I occasionally wear a db overcoat with a sweater vest underneath but no jacket. It works great. Enjoy BillC





Flanderian said:


> That's a beautiful tweed! :loveyou:
> 
> It's sounds to me as if you intend to wear this coat as a more casual coat, rather than in the more traditional mode as a longer coat over suits and sport jackets, and that can change the suitability of the cloth compared to such traditional uses.
> 
> It's a vivid shade that will stand out, more vivid typically means more casual. And while it will pop when worn with some items, it will require a bit more care when considered for wear with others. More muted cloth is more universally versatile. Traditional shades for overcoats are medium to dark grey, camel, taupe and navy. If versatility is your goal, they will serve your needs better precisely because they are less eye-catching than the handsome tweed to depicted.


Thanks everyone for the advice.

It sounds like I will pass on the "Shiny" tweed item that I always end up being attracted to. I have a problem regarding shiny things and buying an item that rarely gets worn.

I'm trending towards single-breasted this time, but belted. I find DB coats don't look as good worn open. My rust coat covers the DB base.

Also I think the actual swatch seemed more suited towards sportcoats fabrics, the chevron width was fairly narrow compared to my current overcoat.

As Fading_Fast mentioned, I struggle to discern and visualize a potential overcoat from online swatches, and even in person swatches.

Good news is: my tailor accepts outside fabrics and still has a reasonable charge. I can spend up to $500 CAD on fabrics. Tailor says I need 3.5m, but I can buy 4m.

I'm definitely interested in some kind of blue shade, as long as it's versatile enough to cover my bases. Dark navy is a bit too dull for me, while mid-blue is not as versatile as I'm learning.

I keep floating back to the O'Connell's coat I posted for reference, because it seems to tick enough of the right boxes.

I feel like this colour coat would be versatile enough, yet eye-catching?

https://oconnellsclothing.com/outer...weed-navy-blue-donegal-ocon111-sb-raglan.html

















These swatches look sort of similiar?

















Then Magee carries a bunch too, and here is one from Yorkshire Fabric

https://www.magee1866.com/en/Navy-Herringbone-Flecked-Donegal-Tweed/m-11375.aspxhttps://www.magee1866.com/en/Navy-and-Blue-Herringbone-Flecked-Donegal-Tweed/m-11380.aspxhttps://www.yorkshirefabric.com/col...avy-blue-all-wool-irish-donegal-tweed-coating
I also have to keep in consideration my climate too. Anything under 20oz is probably useless for winter here.


----------



## 215339

One more picture to stretch the page out even further, but I've settled on this design.


----------



## Flanderian

delicious_scent said:


> Thanks everyone for the advice.
> 
> It sounds like I will pass on the "Shiny" tweed item that I always end up being attracted to. I have a problem regarding shiny things and buying an item that rarely gets worn.
> 
> I'm trending towards single-breasted this time, but belted. I find DB coats don't look as good worn open. My rust coat covers the DB base.
> 
> Also I think the actual swatch seemed more suited towards sportcoats fabrics, the chevron width was fairly narrow compared to my current overcoat.
> 
> As Fading_Fast mentioned, I struggle to discern and visualize a potential overcoat from online swatches, and even in person swatches.
> 
> Good news is: my tailor accepts outside fabrics and still has a reasonable charge. I can spend up to $500 CAD on fabrics. Tailor says I need 3.5m, but I can buy 4m.
> 
> I'm definitely interested in some kind of blue shade, as long as it's versatile enough to cover my bases. Dark navy is a bit too dull for me, while mid-blue is not as versatile as I'm learning.
> 
> I keep floating back to the O'Connell's coat I posted for reference, because it seems to tick enough of the right boxes.
> 
> I feel like this colour coat would be versatile enough, yet eye-catching?
> 
> http://[URL]https://oconnellsclothi...weed-navy-blue-donegal-ocon111-sb-raglan.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These swatches look sort of similiar?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then Magee carries a bunch too, and here is one from Yorkshire Fabric
> 
> http://[URL]https://www.magee1866.com/en/Navy-Herringbone-Flecked-Donegal-Tweed/m-11375.aspxhttp://[URL]https://www.magee1866.c...erringbone-Flecked-Donegal-Tweed/m-11380.aspxhttp://[URL]https://www.yorkshirefa...avy-blue-all-wool-irish-donegal-tweed-coating
> I also have to keep in consideration my climate too. Anything under 20oz is probably useless for winter here.


All beautiful tweed!

The O'Connell's coat is magnificent, and if that's what you're looking for, it would be a great choice. But this tweed is still a bit bright for optimal versatility. The fully depicted 1st tweed down looks to be just about identical, the 2nd down is darker, and this would offer a bit more versatility.

Among the 3 links below, again, all beautiful, the first cloth has some teal in it which will limit versatility. The next two are similar darker blue-grey tweeds. I'd select the middle one, as it's a pure blue grey without other apparent admixtures that should be quite versatile, but still has a bit of life to it. A handsome tweed!


----------



## Flanderian

delicious_scent said:


> One more picture to stretch the page out even further, but I've settled on this design.


I very much prefer belted overcoats. They tend to have the most flattering line, and as a one time commuter, I know the belt even provides a bit of added warmth.


----------



## Flanderian

I think I may have posted pictures of the coats below, but will again as they show good examples of belted coats in heavier tweed, and the 3rd photo is an example of SB Raglan shoulder, Balmacan collared keeper's tweed with a belt.


----------



## 215339

Flanderian said:


> All beautiful tweed!
> 
> The O'Connell's coat is magnificent, and if that's what you're looking for, it would be a great choice. But this tweed is still a bit bright for optimal versatility. The fully depicted 1st tweed down looks to be just about identical, the 2nd down is darker, and this would offer a bit more versatility.
> 
> Among the 3 links below, again, all beautiful, the first cloth has some teal in it which will limit versatility. The next two are similar darker blue-grey tweeds. I'd select the middle one, as it's a pure blue grey without other apparent admixtures that should be quite versatile, but still has a bit of life to it. A handsome tweed!


Thanks for the quick response Flanderian.

Ok, it sounds like teal and mid-blue itself is what takes away from versatility. People on TOF also mentioned something similiar, that anything with a colder grey cast would be more versatile for brighter blue colours.

If we're on the same page, this is the one you selected?

https://www.magee1866.com/en/Navy-and-Blue-Herringbone-Flecked-Donegal-Tweed/m-11380.aspx
If so, I was eyeing that too, the weight seems decent as well. 22oz is never enough for the coldest winter days here, but realistically most of us just run towards the car ASAP anyway. 


Flanderian said:


> I very much prefer belted overcoats. They tend to have the most flattering line, and as a one time commuter, I know the belt even provides a bit of added warmth.


For SB coats, I think belts add a nice dividing line too, and also look more like a coat and less like a blanket. Plus belts just feel cool .

I'm not sure about belts on DBs, they look a bit busy from the coats I looked at on B&Tailor's instagram, I like half-belts on those.


----------



## 215339

Flanderian said:


> I think I may have posted pictures of the coats below, but will again as they show good examples of belted coats in heavier tweed, and the 3rd photo is an example of SB Raglan shoulder, Balmacan collared keeper's tweed with a belt.
> 
> View attachment 47988
> 
> 
> View attachment 47989
> 
> 
> View attachment 47990


Or not, the DB looks great while belted too!

Seems like just only using the one button behind the belt is the key to not looking too busy.

I'm definitely favouring the silhouette of raglan balmacaan's lately, so that last one is very appealing due to the softer aesthetic. I have a raglan trench and I really like how super easy it is to slip on as well.


----------



## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> ...If so, I was eyeing that too, the weight seems decent as well. 22oz is never enough for the coldest winter days here, but realistically most of us just run towards the car ASAP anyway.
> ...


⇧ This made me chuckle. Back in the '80s, for the first few years of my post-college career, before I could afford to move into NYC, I commuted from an elevated NJ train platform.

Standing on that platform in January at 5:30am, I needed every ounce of overcoat that I could afford. I used to, literally, hold the arm holes of my coat closed with my gloved hands to keep the wind from coming in through the sleeves. Some mornings were insane.

But since then, and to your point, I have almost never really needed a heavy weight overcoat, but have always owned one anyway.


----------



## Flanderian

delicious_scent said:


> Thanks for the quick response Flanderian.
> 
> Ok, it sounds like teal and mid-blue itself is what takes away from versatility. People on TOF also mentioned something similiar, that anything with a colder grey cast would be more versatile for brighter blue colours.
> 
> If we're on the same page, this is the one you selected?
> 
> http://[URL]https://www.magee1866.c...erringbone-Flecked-Donegal-Tweed/m-11380.aspx
> If so, I was eyeing that too, the weight seems decent as well. 22oz is never enough for the coldest winter days here, but realistically most of us just run towards the car ASAP anyway.
> 
> For SB coats, I think belts add a nice dividing line too, and also look more like a coat and less like a blanket. Plus belts just feel cool .
> 
> I'm not sure about belts on DBs, they look a bit busy from the coats I looked at on B&Tailor's instagram, I like half-belts on those.


Yes, judging only from the photo, and given my preferences, I'd like it best for general purposes.



delicious_scent said:


> Or not, the DB looks great while belted too!
> 
> Seems like just only using the one button behind the belt is the key to not looking too busy.
> 
> I'm definitely favouring the silhouette of raglan balmacaan's lately, so that last one is very appealing due to the softer aesthetic. I have a raglan trench and I really like how super easy it is to slip on as well.


The heavy tweed is really a wrap coat, and most likely is secured only by one button, as you suggest. Many DB's are also cut with a peak, rather than a notch lapel like this one. I like both.

I don't find belted DB's too busy, but in a coat that's intended to optimize formality, I feel it makes it less so.

A Raglan shoulder and Balmacan collar are both less formal that either a conventional notch lapel, or peak lapel. And as such, I agree they fit most naturally with less formal clothing beneath.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ This made me chuckle. Back in the '80s, for the first few years of my post-college career, before I could afford to move into NYC, I commuted from an elevated NJ train platform.
> 
> Standing on that platform in January at 5:30am, I needed every ounce of overcoat that I could afford. I used to, literally, hold the arm holes of my coat closed with my gloved hands to keep the wind from coming in through the sleeves. Some mornings were insane.
> 
> But since then, and to your point, I have almost never really needed a heavy weight overcoat, but have always owned one anyway.


It was during a couple years of train commuting that I too became intimately familiar with the thermal properties of various overcoat configurations!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> It was during a couple years of train commuting that I too became intimately familiar with the thermal properties of various overcoat configurations!


You get it. You had to live it, to appreciate how freakin' cold those mornings were.


----------



## Flanderian

Taylor & Tweed -


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Taylor & Tweed -
> 
> View attachment 47999
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 47998


Outstanding. A man wearing men's clothes. It also doesn't hurt to have a Jean Harlow accessory.

I'm not a hat guy in general, but holy cats, that is an awesome hat and a man who knows how to wear it.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Outstanding. A man wearing men's clothes. It also doesn't hurt to have a Jean Harlow accessory.
> 
> I'm not a hat guy in general, but holy cats,* that is an awesome hat and a man who knows how to wear it.*


+1! :happy:


----------



## Flanderian

Man was good to hats!


----------



## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ This made me chuckle. Back in the '80s, for the first few years of my post-college career, before I could afford to move into NYC, I commuted from an elevated NJ train platform.
> 
> Standing on that platform in January at 5:30am, I needed every ounce of overcoat that I could afford. I used to, literally, hold the arm holes of my coat closed with my gloved hands to keep the wind from coming in through the sleeves. Some mornings were insane.
> 
> But since then, and to your point, I have almost never really needed a heavy weight overcoat, but have always owned one anyway.


I only recently learned about train platforms and how terrible they are for keeping warm.

The coldest I've been was on my trip to Amsterdam in 2019 Spring. It was 50F and windy, and I only brought an OCBD, a scarf, and my fatigue jacket.

It gets cold here, but public transport is borderline non-existent, so everyone just goes directly from a car to indoors. 10 minute walk at worst.

I can't imagine how frigid it would be on a train platform in an elevated NJ train platform in January. I shivered just thinking about it.

I'd definitely keep a heavy overcoat if I lived in NYC.


Flanderian said:


> Yes, judging only from the photo, and given my preferences, I'd like it best for general purposes.
> 
> The heavy tweed is really a wrap coat, and most likely is secured only by one button, as you suggest. Many DB's are also cut with a peak, rather than a notch lapel like this one. I like both.
> 
> I don't find belted DB's too busy, but in a coat that's intended to optimize formality, I feel it makes it less so.
> 
> A Raglan shoulder and Balmacan collar are both less formal that either a conventional notch lapel, or peak lapel. And as such, I agree they fit most naturally with less formal clothing beneath.


Alright, sounds good. Maybe a teal blue in the future, but better to have something versatile for once. I'm easily distracted by shiny menswear items that don't end up being very useful.

Being a wrap coat makes sense on why I prefer that silhouette.

Agreed on a belted DB being less formal.


__
http://instagr.am/p/BfAjV8eBRKl/

That's the example that came to mind for looking too busy, but it may be due to the button configuration+belt. That example I think would look better with half-belt at the back.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Man was good to hats!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 48002


A bit too Guys and Dolls for me, but still, Taylor clearly knows how to sport a hat.


----------



## Fading Fast

Note a Mr @Flanderian contrasting-collar shirt. That said, shirt's blue it too "sky" for the outfit, IMHO. Love the tie with the sport coat though.


----------



## Flanderian

Better?

One Herr Stricker deserves another!


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 48024
> 
> 
> Better?
> 
> One Herr Stricker deserves another!


A memorably handsome fabric pattern on that Tweed jacket!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 48024
> 
> 
> Better?
> 
> One Herr Stricker deserves another!


Much. Well done.


----------



## Fading Fast

Possible dupe.


----------



## 215339

After rereading everyone's comments and the advice I got on TOF, I think that blue tweed idea sounded better in my head than in reality.

I am leaning towards a traditional "boring" option as I was calling it.

https://www.magee1866.com/en/Black-and-White-Herringbone-Flecked-Donegal-Tweed/m-11376.aspxhttps://www.magee1866.com/en/Black-and-Oat-Herringbone-Donegal-Tweed/m-11384.aspx
One of those I think. I'm guessing those will come off as a lighter mid-grey.

Hopefully I'll still find it interesting enough if made up in this design.


__
http://instagr.am/p/B38qjm2BGOe/

Any details I should request on an overcoat that may not be present OTR? I was thinking of deeper slash hand-warmer pockets overall, and deeper double chest pockets on the interior.

A scarf pocket as well maybe, but not sure how that works.


----------



## Flanderian

delicious_scent said:


> After rereading everyone's comments and the advice I got on TOF, I think that blue tweed idea sounded better in my head than in reality.
> 
> I am leaning towards a traditional "boring" option as I was calling it.
> 
> http://[URL]https://www.magee1866.c...erringbone-Flecked-Donegal-Tweed/m-11376.aspxhttp://[URL]https://www.magee1866.com/en/Black-and-Oat-Herringbone-Donegal-Tweed/m-11384.aspxhttp://[URL]https://www.magee1866.com/en/Black-and-White-Herringbone-Donegal-Tweed/m-11377.aspx
> One of those I think. I'm guessing those will come off as a lighter mid-grey.
> 
> Hopefully I'll still find it interesting enough if made up in this design.
> 
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/B38qjm2BGOe/
> 
> Any details I should request on an overcoat that may not be present OTR? I was thinking of deeper slash hand-warmer pockets overall, and deeper double chest pockets on the interior.
> 
> A scarf pocket as well maybe, but not sure how that works.


I'm back! :happy:

Unsure how long I'll remain logged in for, so will cut to the chase.

If you do the style depicted, I'd skip a breast pocket, and *definitely* skip two! 

Quibbles: That's a wrap coat, I think I prefer a conventional buckle, and the belt is to long/big anyway.

Do two inside pockets in the lining, and have them made deep enough, can be very useful.

*Most important:  *This is a relaxed, roomy style, and its aesthetic is dependent on it. If you attempt a shrink-wrapped fashionable fit, it will likely completely screw it up.

Edit: A fly front can look good on this style, and I would prefer it.

Double edit: Give the slash pockets more of an angle.


----------



## 215339

Flanderian said:


> I'm back! :happy:
> 
> Unsure how long I'll remain logged in for, so will cut to the chase.
> 
> If you do the style depicted, I'd skip a breast pocket, and *definitely* skip two!
> 
> Quibbles: That's a wrap coat, I think I prefer a conventional buckle, and the belt is to long/big anyway.
> 
> Do two inside pockets in the lining, and have them made deep enough, can be very useful.
> 
> *Most important:  *This is a relaxed, roomy style, and its aesthetic is dependent on it. If you attempt a shrink-wrapped fashionable fit, it will likely completely screw it up.
> 
> Edit: A fly front can look good on this style, and I would prefer it.
> 
> Double edit: Give the slash pockets more of an angle.


Oh yes, no exterior breast pockets, two inside pockets in the lining is basically what I meant by interior chest pockets.

I find I never use buckles, even if they're present. The trench coat I own I just tie the same way.

Speaking of, that's a similiar wrap style, and while I like the roominess and drape, I notice it doesn't look as good worn open, nor can I only wear just a shirt underneath.










So I think going for an overall fit that's less roomy than that, but not slim, would be preferable. So basically the picture off B&Tailor.


----------



## 215339

I don't know what I did to the rest of my post, so here is the rest.

Unsure of fly front. I think fly front looks best when belted, but I also plan on wearing the coat unbelted+open as well, and I think standard buttoning may look better there.

More angled slash pockets make sense to me, I didn't notice how vertical the ones up there were.

Another problem I have with the trench is the tendency for the sweep/bottom of the coat to flare out. Not a fan of that, I'd rather the silhouette look more "straight".

Simon's coat looks to have a contemporary cut, not slim or full, and it seems to look fine. Granted, it is open and not closed so I can't tell










On the website it looks a little too trim though


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Love that coat

⇩ Cross post with the Ralph thread.


----------



## Fading Fast




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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 48126


A great look, from head to....well, at least the waist, from what we can see. That Tweed looks bullet proof!


----------



## Oldsarge

That could almost be a English professor's official uniform.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast

I've tried to like this one, but keep coming away thinking too much of an echo to a '70s game show host or aluminum-siding salesman.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 48192
> 
> I've tried to like this one, but keep coming away thinking too much of an echo to a '70s game show host or aluminum-siding salesman.


As a suit it is too much. Dump the trousers and wear the jacket as a sport coat, paired with charcoal trousers or perhaps even dark brown trousers.


----------



## 215339

Some more inspiration and trying to dial down fit/silhouette on my future raglan coat.










That is my raglan wrap trench, and its a very full cut. I was thinking of my future coat having just enough fullness to fit a shawl cardigan underneath, and not have the vertical pleats on either side of the chest like the trench.

This is Dannefalk, from TOF, and his bespoke raglan coat that I like a lot

















Then from Phantom Thread, the movie.










Both seem to have a straight cut, which I'm looking for, yet are full enough. They seem like they could be worn open or with just a shirt?

The problem with my wrap trench is it's just too voluminous so it needs something thick and heavy underneath to take up that much space.

What do you all think?


----------



## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> Some more inspiration and trying to dial down fit/silhouette on my future raglan coat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is my raglan wrap trench, and its a very full cut. I was thinking of my future coat having just enough fullness to fit a shawl cardigan underneath, and not have the vertical pleats on either side of the chest like the trench.
> 
> This is Dannefalk, from TOF, and his bespoke raglan coat that I like a lot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then from Phantom Thread, the movie.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both seem to have a straight cut, which I'm looking for, yet are full enough. They seem like they could be worn open or with just a shirt?
> 
> The problem with my wrap trench is it's just too voluminous so it needs something thick and heavy underneath to take up that much space.
> 
> What do you all think?


I agree with your comments and even remember liking that specific coat when I saw it in "Phantom Thread;" although, I would have liked it to be a few inches longer.

As a thin guy, I have the same issue you do which is that some raglan coats are too voluminous, but this is where the move toward trimmer fits has helped me over the past decade as modern overcoats fit me better. Not the super skinny stuff, but the "slim" or even today's "regular" cuts are much better for my frame.

I like both coats you show above, but the top guys looks pretty big; whereas, you and I look closer in size and frame to Day-Lewis.


----------



## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> I agree with your comments and even remember liking that specific coat when I saw it in "Phantom Thread;" although, I would have liked it to be a few inches longer.
> 
> As a thin guy, I have the same issue you do which is that some raglan coats are too voluminous, but this is where the move toward trimmer fits has helped me over the past decade as modern overcoats fit me better. Not the super skinny stuff, but the "slim" or even today's "regular" cuts are much better for my frame.
> 
> I like both coats you show above, but the top guys looks pretty big; whereas, you and I look closer in size and frame to Day-Lewis.


Yeah we're on the same page then, and explains why I'm drawn towards DDL's coat. It's not slim, but not super full either. Nice middle ground that I think would suit me better. "Slim-to-regular" is what I'm going to call it now, or just contemporary cut.

The other thing I like is that the sweep/skirt of his coat isn't flying away or flaring out either.

Yeah I noticed the other guy still somehow manages to look broad and square, despite having a raglan coat on. Maybe that's why he was drawn towards the raglan construction, might look funky if he wore an overcoat with set-in sleeves.


----------



## Fading Fast

I kinda like the jacket, but not with that vest.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 48219
> 
> I kinda like the jacket, but not with that vest.


Agreed. I'm all in favor of mixing pattern and color but this is a step too far.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## EclecticSr.

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 48230


Not to diminish what has gone before but, great model, great use of tweed. Who cares to compete?

I say post in geezer thread, far more handsome than many.


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## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

In the category of despot tweed, take a look st Ralph Romanov, aka Tsar Nicholas II (actually, not so bad a guy), one of the folks I look to for style from beyond the grave. Colorize this and it could be Fall in Maine where each Halloween I climb into my tsar costume and pretend to shoot myself. Love them tweeds of his. I've retrofited certain tweeds of mine back into1918, not a difficult task, probabjy because certain current clothes are only a few steps from then to begin.

My tie-less ghost buddy...










And a tsar in full...


----------



## 215339

Something about that herringbone is very enticing and this is the first time I've seen it.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

When the pattern's that large it's referred to as _whalebone_.


----------



## Peak and Pine

(I think he may have bought that.)


----------



## 215339

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> When the pattern's that large it's referred to as _whalebone_.





Peak and Pine said:


> (I think he may have bought that.)


I like it. Whalebone has a nice ring for tweed.

I talked to someone on TOF who found a fabric similiar to that, but he found it very spongey. He mentioned that he now considers how a cloth will tailor, and making it easier for your tailor to work with something will end up giving a better experience.

After all this deliberation regarding my overcoat, I think I will definitely stick to something thick and traditional. Likely black/white herringbone in 22oz weight (swatch is incoming for me)


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

^
No. And no.
Swell ties though.
The first tie, the deep green and red repp, belong on a dark, plain, maybe subtle stripe, suit. Period. The rust and olive plaid, a breath-taker in a good way, deserves great thought, obviously not given here. Open collar probably, no tie ever, vests and sweaters okay, lose the baby blue shirt. Could be worn with a dark shirt, like chocolate maybe. Not sure. I want that jacket.

The second shot doesn't belong here. It's a tie shot. The tweed part phoned in. I have that jacket, what I can see of it. Most (NE) folks wearing clothes since the 50s have that tweed. But paired nowhere near as preciously as shown. Mine's Harris, as that one probably is.


----------



## Peak and Pine

delicious_scent said:


> Something about that herringbone is very enticing and this is the first time I've seen it.


.
Delish, I like the coat you're showing...










I have you pictured as looking something like that guy. I know also that you want to wear it like that, over just a shirt or sweater, not always with an under coat. Have you checked out _half raglan_? Believe the sleeve to be sewn as a raglan in front and as a set-in in the rear. I have one, vintage, but it's packed away and is shy in front of cameras.


----------



## Fading Fast

*Alert: please skip this post if you are only here to see pics of tweed clothing / outfits.*

From the movies, it appears that Tweed was a very popular fabric for men's suits and sport coats from the '30s - '50s (bleeding a bit into the '60s). To be sure, Tweed suits, sport coats, etc., are still made today, but the evidence argues Tweed items were much-more common in most men's wardrobes back then.

Recently, on Fedora Lounge (a forum mainly devoted to the culture of the '30s - '60s, with a lot of drift and exceptions like we have here), one member has been posting a summary of a couple of newspapers "day by day" in the 1940s. Effectively, you can read the paper's summary as if you were living in that year reading the paper daily and aligned to the same calendar day in 2020. So, today, August 15th 1940's summary will be posted.

The comic strips in these papers have been a revelation. First, the comic strips were not just (or in some cases, even appropriate) for kids as they had some very adult themes and storylines. Second, and relevant to AAAC and, tangentially, this thread, the illustrations show men in a plethora of suits, sport coats and ties that echo the movies of the era and famous style magazines like Apparel Arts. It's not unusual to see a man in a comic strip in a patterned suit (SB, DB w/ or w/out a vest) with a pocket square, wing-tips, a dress shirt with a collar pin and a tie and maybe with a tie bar and/or pocket watch.

As to the Tweed suits and sport coats, the challenge for these comic-strip artists is to convey the nuances, colors and texture of these materials in black-and-white newsprint. As George Harrison would say, you know it don't come easy, as that is a really difficult thing to do.

Below are a couple of recent Tweed items where you can see that the artists made some interesting attempts to capture the "essence" of Tweed.

My guess, in this first pic, is that the suit on the right is supposed to be a rough hewn Donegal Tweed. When you expand the pic and/or focus directly in on it, it maybe it looks silly, but when I first read the strip, and just "took it in" quickly, I got what it was - so points for that.

As an aside, while not necessarily Tweed, the suit/sport coat-shirt-tie combo on the gentleman to the left is pretty interesting too.









This one strikes me as the artist's attempt at a donegal tweed overcoat.









That's it, just wanted to share these Tweed comic-strip efforts with you.

N.B., I see a foreshadowing of Warhol's Pop-Art style in Mary Worth's Family's illustrations.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

I just read your post and I liked it. So there. Except for the part where you confused George Harrison and Ringo Starr. Chortle wortle.


----------



## 215339

Peak and Pine said:


> .
> Delish, I like the coat you're showing...
> 
> View attachment 48302
> 
> 
> I have you pictured as looking something like that guy. I know also that you want to wear it like that, over just a shirt or sweater, not always with an under coat. Have you checked out _half raglan_? Believe the sleeve to be sewn as a raglan in front and as a set-in in the rear. I have one, vintage, but it's packed away and is shy in front of cameras.


Now you got me curious, I recall reading about this a couple years ago.

Like this? Though I think it may be the opposite


















" It is a one-piece sleeve which is cut to combine the sharp, smart - not to mention traditional - look of an inset sleeve at the front, with the ease and comfort of a raglan at the back. "

"You get the clean line and smart appearance of the set-in sleeve, and the freedom of movement of the raglan.

It is, construction-wise, closer to a raglan than a set-in sleeve, so it has most of the properties of the latter. There is a small amount of fullness in the shoulder, but not as much as with a full set-in sleeve."

Then there is also this type of construction










For me, I mainly care about the slouchy, rounded, less formal look. Should be easy to slip on as well.

Also learned that a higher armhole is still beneficial on a raglan coat.

All of this depends on what my tailor is willing to do and what he's familiar with.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

What you've just shown, that's it exactly, the _half raglan. _And I may have to stand corrected regarding mine which I haven't seen in awhile. The set-in may well be in the front, the raglan at rear. It's a good look.


----------



## 215339

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> What you've just shown, that's it exactly, the _half raglan. _And I may have to stand corrected regarding mine which I haven't seen in awhile. The set-in may well be in the front, the raglan at rear. It's a good look.


Which one though? The first set of pictures or the second? Both could be described as half-raglan.

I like the second one due to the less stronger shoulder line.


----------



## Peak and Pine

delicious_scent said:


> Which one though? The first set of pictures or the second? Both could be described as half-raglan.
> 
> I like the second one due to the less stronger shoulder line.


The first, because of the combo nature combines the best of both. Really like the cloth on the second pic though, and the unusual closed notch (okay, gorge).


----------



## 215339

Peak and Pine said:


> The first, because of the combo nature combines the best of both. Really like the cloth on the second pic though, and the unusual closed notch (okay, gorge).


Found it here if you want to look at more.

https://www.sehkelly.com/shop/coats...eld-in-woollen-bedford-cord-in-imperial-blue/
I've frequently looked at their stuff, but with taxes and duties it's basically the same as just going to my tailor for custom.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Thank you. They've not mobilized their site so it's tough to look at on this not-so-smart phone. Whadda collar, almost shawl with its tight gorge. Their spooky dawn-of-the-dead mannequin does them no favors.


----------



## 215339

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> Thank you. They've not mobilized their site so it's tough to look at on this not-so-smart phone. Whadda collar, almost shawl with its tight gorge. Their spooky dawn-of-the-dead mannequin does them no favors.


Seeing this made me smirk on their website.










This is the only other pic I could find on a person that shows enough


----------



## Peak and Pine

Remember, after you get all tweed'ed up, you're never too busy to stop on the way to work and spray paint a little something on a building or two...


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Troones

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 48219
> 
> I kinda like the jacket, but not with that vest.


I thought that tweed looked familiar, then I realized I have a similar jacket hidden away in my closet that actually fits me again. So, just for fun, I thought I'd try to recreate this ensemble with what I have available. Just for a laugh. I know the tie and vest are not the same but I think this keeps within the same spirit. And for the record, I agree its too much in regard to pattern. ps. That's not me, its a dummy. A different dummy anyway.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

I like your jacket better.


----------



## Fading Fast

Troones said:


> I thought that tweed looked familiar, then I realized I have a similar jacket hidden away in my closet that actually fits me again. So, just for fun, I thought I'd try to recreate this ensemble with what I have available. Just for a laugh. I know the tie and vest are not the same but I think this keeps within the same spirit. And for the record, I agree its too much in regard to pattern. ps. That's not me, its a dummy. A different dummy anyway.
> View attachment 48335


So, on TCM this morning is "Bringing up Baby," which I have on mute in the background and just saw this sport coat and vest on actor Charles Ruggles:





























Note also the bellows side pockets (a topic of discussion in the "Ralph" thread today) and throat latch.


----------



## Peak and Pine

How's this for pretty close to perfection?


----------



## Fading Fast

Nice simple classic Tweed sport coat and outfit for a Sunday afternoon as worn by Ronald Coleman in 1942's "Talk of the Town."


----------



## Oldsarge

I long for the day when it's once more cool enough to dress like that.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 48381
> 
> View attachment 48380


I love everything going on in the top photo, but in the bottom photo, not so much...the guy needs to tie his tie properly, ditch the pleated trousers...they add at least 29 years to the wearers age...and the list could go on. LOL.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 48430


Like the jacket, love the flying pheasant tie and that medium blue OCBD is to die for...the weight of the fabric is what it is all about!


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## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 48467


I do like the fabric pattern, but that jacket has been subjected to a "hard knock life, for sure!" Looks a bit dingy at this point, desperately in need of a dry cleaning.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> I do like the fabric pattern, but that jacket has been subjected to a "hard knock life, for sure!" Looks a bit dingy at this point, desperately in need of a dry cleaning.


Judging from the grizzly beard and tumbler of brown liquor in his hands, I'm betting its owner has lead a full life as well.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Nice Tweed and very nice watch.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Nice Tweed and very nice watch.
> 
> View attachment 48505


A look so many of us may have sported back in the day and would wish to be able to do so today, a Tweed car coat, worn over a Turtleneck sweater and nice heavy wool gaberdines, but never when climbing a tree. That's what the good lawd gave us blue jeans and work shirts for! Very nice. for sure.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> A look so many of us may have sported back in the day and would wish to be able to do so today, a Tweed car coat, worn over a Turtleneck sweater and nice heavy wool gaberdines, but never when climbing a tree. That's what the good lawd gave us blue jeans and work shirts for! Very nice. for sure.


He lives in that world of movie stars and models where you can wear finally tailored clothing for adventures such as tree climbing with no ill effects on them.

Were a mere mortal such as I (and an unimpressive one at that) to do so, the clothes would come away with pulls, tears and tree-sap stains.

Contradicting myself a bit, I have found that a rough-hewn heavy tweed can takes some abuse from mother nature, which really isn't that surprising as they were original designed to do just that.

So, maybe his jacket could handle a tree climb, but the pants and turtleneck would, at minimum, come away with a few nicks and bruises.


----------



## 215339

How do you all feel about lining the upper back of a tweed overcoat with melton wool?

In my head it sounded like a good idea, so now I already have the fabric.

Some people at TOF said it will make it harder to pull the coat on and off, stick to whatever I'm wearing underneath, and may affect the drape.

At worst I guess I now have a wool blanket.

Maybe I could ask my tailor to make it removable?


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

challer over on the safari shirt/jacket thread commented on how good they were for travel. This leads me to wondering about the possibilities of a safari in tweed. I'm sure it's been done. Any pics, anyone?


----------



## Fading Fast

⇩ Feels like a dupe, but if not, the material has too much wonderful texture and flecks of color not to post.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 48593
> 
> 
> View attachment 48594


Nice classic looking items. I'd lose the PS, but that's just me 98% of the time.

N.B. to @eagle2250 , since we've chatted about it before, wanted to note that I think I spy a potential watch chain in the bottom pic starting at the lapel button hole and ending with the watch itself, not visible, but in the breast pocket.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Nice classic looking items. I'd lose the PS, but that's just me 98% of the time.
> 
> N.B. to @eagle2250 , since we've chatted about it before, wanted to note that I think I spy a potential watch chain in the bottom pic starting at the lapel button hole and ending with the watch itself, not visible, but in the breast pocket.


My friend, you do have excellent vision. Note if you will the pocket watch shaped and sized bump in the left breast pocket of that jacket.. I also fully concur with your assessment of the pocket square! Well done, Sir.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> My friend, you do have excellent vision. Note if you will the pocket watch shaped and sized bump in the left breast pocket of that jacket.. I also fully concur with your assessment of the pocket square! Well done, Sir.


I have to concede the Superman-vision title to you as I didn't notice the faint circular "bump" until you pointed it out, but it certainly looks pocket watch size and shape.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> I have to concede the Superman-vision title to you as I didn't notice the faint circular "bump" until you pointed it out, but it certainly looks pocket watch size and shape.


I confess I have a similar watch chain except mine is not a chain but braided leather. I purchased it some years ago but never used it, one of those impulsive buys.

I do own several vintage pocket watches, in fact repaired one this morning, an Illinois and shes ticking away very accurately.

I'm currently eyeing a Zenith, just wish it were a bit less expensive. If its still around in a couple of weeks
I'll probably pull the trigger, a birthday gift to myself.


----------



## Fading Fast

EclecticSr. said:


> I confess I have a similar watch chain except mine is not a chain but braided leather. I purchased it some years ago but never used it, one of those impulsive buys.
> 
> I do own several vintage pocket watches, in fact repaired one this morning, an Illinois and shes ticking away very accurately.
> 
> I'm currently eyeing a Zenith, just wish it were a bit less expensive. If its still around in a couple of weeks
> I'll probably pull the trigger, a birthday gift to myself.


Well, you're in good company as 20th Century style icon Fred Astaire also had a leather strap for his breast pocket watch. 








There's a better pic of it out there somewhere as I've seen it, but couldn't find it this morning.

I have an old Illinois (1920s I believe) wristwatch - love it.

Happy Birthday, I hope you treat yourself to the Zenith.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> Well, you're in good company as 20th Century style icon Fred Astaire also had a leather strap for his breast pocket watch.
> View attachment 48620
> 
> There's a better pic of it out there somewhere as I've seen it, but couldn't find it this morning.
> 
> I have an old Illinois (1920s I believe) wristwatch - love it.
> 
> Happy Birthday, I hope you treat yourself to the Zenith.


Thank you.Illinois produced some fine watches. Ya got to love vintage.


----------



## Troones

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 48593
> 
> 
> View attachment 48594


I love the green! I'm considering this green Donegal as my next purchase as its been awhile. I always said my next tweed would be green and I think this is quite handsome.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Troones said:


> I love the green! I'm considering this green Donegal as my next purchase as its been awhile. I always said my next tweed would be green and I think this is quite handsome.
> View attachment 48622
> 
> View attachment 48623


That is a lovely jacket, love the flecks of color and patch pockets.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Not sure I get the usefulness of a pocket watch, compared to a wrist watch. Or the chain thing. I would imagine however that a chain attached to a cell phone might come in handy, like for the time I leaned too far over the pool and the flip inside my blazer slid out, refused to float.

Below, a special subset of tweed, the tweed you sleep in. I actually like this look. And if you sit outside the 7-11 long enough, you'll pick up some spare change.









.
Next is an idea I'm thinking about. It's a 50s panel shirt. As preps we did not wear these. Less snooty kids did. I am picturing a brown Harris Tweed, with front panels of a mocha smooth wool. I have these items and have never seen this treatment done with a heavy tweed jacket, although Pendleton did it early on with thinner wool plus corduroy, brown and mustard I have, along with olive and gold..










Below is a jacket similar to one posted in the Ralph thread a few days ago, a jacket shat on for cock eyed reasoning. This is not a Lauren, but as striking. I think that if it were mine I would wear it just like this, with all three buttons done up.


----------



## eagle2250

EclecticSr. said:


> I confess I have a similar watch chain except mine is not a chain but braided leather. I purchased it some years ago but never used it, one of those impulsive buys.
> 
> I do own several vintage pocket watches, in fact repaired one this morning, an Illinois and shes ticking away very accurately.
> 
> I'm currently eyeing a Zenith, just wish it were a bit less expensive. If its still around in a couple of weeks
> I'll probably pull the trigger, a birthday gift to myself.


"He who hesitates is lost!" Buy it now, before some other enthusiast does. Good luck in your effort.


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## Oldsarge

A question that had never occurred to me . . .

https://www.shootinguk.co.uk/uncategorized/how-loud-should-your-shooting-tweeds-be-115635


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## 215339

Magee samples finally reached me. Amazing customer service by the way, they sent them out completely free to me across the ocean, at no charge.

I'll definitely be buying my tweed overcoat fabric from them.

Initially I was attracted to the lighter herringbone, but the dark green herringbone tweed is very striking in person, and so is the salt and pepper donegal grey.


----------



## Peak and Pine

delicious_scent said:


> Magee samples finally reached me. Amazing customer service by the way, they sent them out completely free to me across the ocean, at no charge.
> 
> I'll definitely be buying my tweed overcoat fabric from them.
> 
> Initially I was attracted to the lighter herringbone, but the dark green herringbone tweed is very striking in person, and so is the salt and pepper donegal grey.


You want the deep green donegal, bottom center. The others are decent, but blah. You needn't worry about color versatility because an outer coat, color wise, doesn't need to match anything. The exception would be wearing this on the runway unbuttoned with arms akimbo flashing whatever's piled on beneath, whereas you'll be wearing yours mostly buttoned up at the Wendy's drive-through. The picture quality of the swatches is not very good, maybe because you're using a pink cell phone. You still have that? Sheesh.


----------



## 215339

Peak and Pine said:


> You want the deep green donegal, bottom center. The others are decent, but blah. You needn't worry about color versatility because an outer coat, color wise, doesn't need to match anything. The exception would be wearing this on the runway unbuttoned with arms akimbo flashing whatever's piled on beneath, whereas you'll be wearing yours mostly buttoned up at the Wendy's drive-through. The picture quality of the swatches is not very good, maybe because you're using a pink cell phone. You still have that? Sheesh.


Hahahaha, very good memory. Yeah that cell phone is a piece of crap at this point, but I don't want to pay up for a new one, it's serviceable, but picture quality is a solid 2/10.

Agreed that deep green is great, it stuck out to me right away in person.

I'm taking it all into consideration with my other overcoat, which is a rust brown. I'm more uncertain about the dark green. The lightest herringbone grey up there I can picture more easily in my head and would likely slot better in my wardrobe.

I found one on google that looks basically the same as that cloth.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Dial back up a few posts until you find the one with the panel shirt. No? Baby not up to it? Okay, I'll do it for you...










As mentioned earlier, I'm thinking that treatment might work with a tweed jacket, although I've never seen one. Below is a Harris Tweed from a vintage shop. Next to it is a disassembled leg from a pair of Polo wools from the same shop, for free once I pointed out scorch marks across the crotch. (Learn from this. Iron must always be in motion. Yes I know it doesn't have wheels, keep moving it anyway.)










While appearing greenish on screen, panel cloth is actually gray with black. Mini hound's tooth. Tweed color is close, less vibrant IRL.


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## Peak and Pine

^
70s balmacaan worn by 20s hipster who has no idea what it is. Coat can be heard from across the street. Pass.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Tattersall tweed.


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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 48704


A striking look to the fabric pattern in that jacket, for sure. Should we ever move back north, I'll have to get me one of those!


----------



## Peak and Pine

This will make sense only if you've been to this thread recently and have been paying attention. After this, below, future pics and details will appear in their own thread. Watch for it.










Mannequin's on break, me inside.


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## Fading Fast




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## Peak and Pine

^

Liking everything about this, including what at first glance seemed a single, giant cuff button until a second look revealed it was a partial garment label. Shirt and tie with this, a potential tuff pairing, thumbs up.


----------



## Oldsarge

I'm not sure this is tweed. It might be heavy flannel.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Or camels' hair. Top notch whatever which way. Look at that shoulder. And elephant lapels. Light buttons give a suit coat, if that's what this is, versatility, helping it when it goes off on its own.


----------



## ran23

I grew out of my suit trousers, but the charcoal glen plaid jacket still fits. What to wear with it?


----------



## Oldsarge

Either the darkest or the lightest color in the check?


----------



## Fading Fast

Edit add: meant to post the below as a "Sunday Bonus" along with this guy ⇧, but left it out, so here it is. There's just a lot of Tweed in those old Basil Rathbone "Sherlock Holmes" movies. Heck, even Holmes' hat looks like it might be Tweed.


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## Peak and Pine

Gilet (zh'lay)...


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## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 48903


Fall is coming.


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## Oldsarge




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## Fading Fast

Continuing with our periodic look at Tweed in the comic strips of the '30s and '40s, here's one from "Sparky Watts." Looks to me like a rough hewn Tweed half-belted back sport coat.









I couldn't find a close match, but this has an echo of Sparky's sport coat:


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## Oldsarge

^^ That's not just a greatcoat, it's a great coat!


----------



## Troones

Fading Fast said:


> Continuing with our periodic look at Tweed in the comic strips of the '30s and '40s, here's one from "Sparky Watts." Looks to me like a rough hewn Tweed half-belted back sport coat.
> View attachment 48940
> 
> 
> I couldn't find a close match, but this has an echo of Sparky's sport coat:
> View attachment 48941


I love love love this one. Is that a herringbone? I tried zooming in but can't quite make it out. An awesome jacket in any event. I have a grey/taupe herringbone with center vent that comes off as this shade. I wish it had an action back like this. I even like the elbow patches. I think they add a lot of character to tweed.


----------



## Fading Fast

Troones said:


> I love love love this one. Is that a herringbone? I tried zooming in but can't quite make it out. An awesome jacket in any event. I have a grey/taupe herringbone with center vent that comes off as this shade. I wish it had an action back like this. I even like the elbow patches. I think they add a lot of character to tweed.


I think it's just a twill pattern, but let's use the AAAC @Matt S Bat Signal to get the definitive answer:









Oh, I and I think the patches work really well on it too.


----------



## Matt S

Fading Fast said:


> I think it's just a twill pattern, but let's use the AAAC @Matt S Bat Signal to get the definitive answer:
> View attachment 48962
> 
> 
> Oh, I and I think the patches work really well on it too.


With such low resolution I can't tell for sure what it is, but it does look like some sort of mottled twill. It's not herringbone.


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## Fading Fast




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## Fading Fast

Cross post from the Ralph thread:









And in comic strip land, our man Sparky Watts seems to have switched out his rough-hewn and flecked Tweed sport coat for a solid sport coat and some Donegal trousers (maybe).


----------



## Troones

^Very nice, but a bit long on that mannequin!

Another of my newbie questions: Is there a name for that particular check pattern? I have a jacket like that (posted previously in this thread) and I've been wondering.


----------



## Fading Fast

Troones said:


> ^Very nice, but a bit long on that mannequin!
> 
> Another of my newbie questions: Is there a name for that particular check pattern? I have a jacket like that (posted previously in this thread) and I've been wondering.


I'm sure there is a more accurate or correct name, but it looks to me like a two-tone houndstooth where the two colors create a kinda cross or windowpane effect (but I'm sure there's a real name for that).

As to length, a bit hard to tell, but I think, yes, long by today's standards, but possibly, very classic in length based on a traditional standards.


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## Peak and Pine




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## Peak and Pine




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## Peak and Pine




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## 215339

Coat from Proper Cloth, seems to have that coveted texture a lot of us like



















Interesting to note the fibre content " Body: 70% Wool, 10% Alpaca, 10% Cashmere, 5% Silk, 5% Nylon "


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## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 49018


Oh, let's go shooting!


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## Troones

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 49043


A beauty!

Does anyone have any suggestions on an online source for action back tweeds? I have yet to come across one. I feel like if I could add just _one_ to my wardrobe I would be a complete, well-rounded and content individual.


----------



## Fading Fast

Troones said:


> A beauty!
> 
> Does anyone have any suggestions on an online source for action back tweeds? I have yet to come across one. I feel like if I could add just _one_ to my wardrobe I would be a complete, well-rounded and content individual.


Unfortunately , I do not, but if you do find one and it accomplishes all you hope, please let me know so that I can order some Soma too.


----------



## Oldsarge

I think Autumn must be on the way. This is the most tweed in one day I've seen in months.


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## Fading Fast

⇧ Some really nice ones @Oldsarge .


----------



## EclecticSr.

Troones said:


> A beauty!
> 
> Does anyone have any suggestions on an online source for action back tweeds? I have yet to come across one. I feel like if I could add just _one_ to my wardrobe I would be a complete, well-rounded and content individual.


Try Orvis, they currently have one, tweed field jacket. Three tweeds to chose from.


----------



## Troones

Much appreciated. I actually remembered Orvis just after I posted this. I have an Orvis tweed jacket (non action back) and I'm impressed with the quality. And they have the best customer service I've ever experienced.


----------



## Fading Fast

Troones said:


> Much appreciated. I actually remembered Orvis just after I posted this. I have an Orvis tweed jacket (non action back) and I'm impressed with the quality. And they have the best customer service I've ever experienced.


Who'da thunk that Orvis would hold the key to becoming "a complete, well-rounded and content individual."


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> Who'da thunk that Orvis would hold the key to becoming "a complete, well-rounded and content individual."


You ever doubted it? 😁


----------



## Troones

Oldsarge said:


> You ever doubted it? 😁


There's their new slogan.


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## Fading Fast




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## Guest

Troones said:


> A beauty!
> 
> Does anyone have any suggestions on an online source for action back tweeds? I have yet to come across one. I feel like if I could add just _one_ to my wardrobe I would be a complete, well-rounded and content individual.


Bookster does.


----------



## Peak and Pine

This is similar to a WWI American major's greatcoat. I have one. My grandfather's. He doesn't need it anymore.


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## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 49106





Peak and Pine said:


> This is similar to a WWI American major's greatcoat. I have one. My grandfather's. He doesn't need it anymore.
> 
> View attachment 49119


I'm now tempted to have my coat made up in a DB configuration, but that's already my entire closet.

Simon from Permanent Style also had a flamboyant greatcoat made.


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## Peak and Pine

delicious_scent said:


> Simon from Permanent Style also had a flamboyant greatcoat made.


Flamboyant is right, with emphasis on the flam. A little too steam punk.

The WWI coat shown above (a stock photo) is Incredibly well made, with no turn-under at the hem, just cut and blanket stitched. To save labor time, I'm told. At war's conclusion, we had one-million men in France and enlisted men wore similar to my granddad's major's coat. So these had to be really cranked out. The sleeves of mine partially fell off because they were sewn with 100% cotton thread which rotted. The wool is pristene. I sewed the sleeves back up.


----------



## 215339

Peak and Pine said:


> Flamboyant is right, with emphasis on the flam. A little too steam punk.
> 
> The WWI coat shown above (a stock photo) is Incredibly well made, with no turn-under at the hem, just cut and blanket stitched. To save labor time, I'm told. At war's conclusion, we had one-million men in France and enlisted men wore similar to my granddad's major's coat. So these had to be really cranked out. The sleeves of mine partially fell off because they were sewn with 100% cotton thread which rotted. The wool is pristene. I sewed the sleeves back up.


This sounds pretty awesome, how warm is it? A guess at how dense the wool is and weight? I wonder if it was melton wool.

Any pictures of you in the coat, or just the coat?


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## Peak and Pine

delicious_scent said:


> Any pictures of you in the coat, or just the coat?


No. Though that might be arranged for another day. I've never actually worn the coat, but have tried it on multiple times. Fits pretty good.

As a sidebar, I'm quite knowledgrable about that war. It's a major interest of mine, which began by coming across this coat well preserved in a trunk some years ago, staring at it, getting puppy-loved about it and wondering what the hell went on in1914 that required a coat like this.


----------



## 215339

Peak and Pine said:


> No. Though that might be arranged for another day. I've never actually worn the coat, but have tried it on multiple times. Fits pretty good.
> 
> As a sidebar, I'm quite knowledgrable about that war. It's a major interest of mine, which began by coming across this coat well preserved in a trunk some years ago, staring at it, getting puppy-loved about it and wondering what the hell went on in1914 that required a coat like this.


I realized that my future overcoat is almost a dream or wish for better days, realistically it won't be worn much, especially with school moving online. I'll probably just go for walks as an excuse to wear it.

I don't know much about WW1, except that it was a dirty war filled with trenches, disease, and death. I got bored of school repeatedly teaching WW2, and not much about WW1. Even video games mainly cover WW2 and never 1.

The movie 1917 was an enjoyable visceral experience regarding trench warfare and the terror it instilled, especially of mortars.

I'd be interested in reading a dedicated WW1 clothing thread if you ever made one.


----------



## Oldsarge

My maternal grandfather was a combat engineer in WWI, out in front of the front lines digging trenches. When he got back (unscathed!) he never, ever talked about anything involving the war except for adamantly forbidding corned beef to ever cross the threshold of his house. Dad flew paratroops in WWII. He didn't talk much about it except for one horrific training flight over the Caribbean. It probably gave him nightmares for years.


----------



## Peak and Pine

delicious_scent said:


> I realized that my future overcoat is almost a dream or wish for better days, realistically it won't be worn much, especially with school moving online. I'll probably just go for walks as an excuse to wear it.
> 
> I don't know much about WW1, except that it was a dirty war filled with trenches, disease, and death. I got bored of school repeatedly teaching WW2, and not much about WW1. Even video games mainly cover WW2 and never 1.
> 
> The movie 1917 was an enjoyable visceral experience regarding trench warfare and the terror it instilled, especially of mortars.
> 
> I'd be interested in reading a dedicated WW1 clothing thread if you ever made one.


WWI will haunt me to the end. More devastating than WWII in cash spent, materiál used and lives lost world wide. America was only in the thing for a year and a half and suffered about the same amount of deaths as we did later in Viet Nam (ca. 55,000). Contrast this with June 1st. 1916, when the Brits took 57.000 casualties in a single 24 hour period, 20,000 of them dead. The Battle of the Somme. Since the discovery of the coat I have accumulated other WWI gear including posters, clothing, letters, signed photos from certain commanders and metal helmets from the allied powers, US, France and Britain plus one from the Central Powers, Germany. The letters are my favorites


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> My maternal grandfather was a combat engineer in WWI, out in front of the front lines digging trenches. When he got back (unscathed!) he never, ever talked about anything involving the war except for adamantly forbidding corned beef to ever cross the threshold of his house. Dad flew paratroops in WWII. He didn't talk much about it except for one horrific training flight over the Caribbean. It probably gave him nightmares for years.


And my Uncle George, at Anzio In WWII, would hole up in his study with the blinds drawn every 4th of July because he couldn't stand the sound and fury of the fireworks, and shied away from hanging a Xmas wreath on the front door, as unadorned, bramble ones would be used similarly to signify a death inside.


----------



## 215339

Peak and Pine said:


> WWI will haunt me to the end. More devastating than WWII in cash spent, materiál used and lives lost world wide. America was only in the thing for a year and a half and suffered about the same amount of deaths as we did later in Viet Nam (ca. 55,000). Contrast this with June 1st. 1916, when the Brits took 57.000 casualties in a single 24 hour period, 20,000 of them dead. The Battle of the Somme. Since the discovery of the coat I have accumulated other WWI gear including posters, clothing, letters, signed photos from certain commanders and metal helmets from the allied powers, US, France and Britain plus one from the Central Powers, Germany. The letters are my favorites


Man I'd definitely love to see a thread full of pictures on that, on the interchange or wherever.

20 000 dying in one day is not something I'm able to grasp, or even the amount of coronavirus deaths or other mortality statistics I read.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

I went into Service during Vietnam but since I fractured my l femur in basic I never went there or saw combat. Still, once I got off Active Duty, for some reason I could no longer tolerate overhead fireworks. this went on for years and I have no explanation. I finally got over it but Uncle George has my complete sympathy.


----------



## never behind

delicious_scent said:


> I realized that my future overcoat is almost a dream or wish for better days, realistically it won't be worn much, especially with school moving online. I'll probably just go for walks as an excuse to wear it.
> 
> I don't know much about WW1, except that it was a dirty war filled with trenches, disease, and death. I got bored of school repeatedly teaching WW2, and not much about WW1. Even video games mainly cover WW2 and never 1.
> 
> The movie 1917 was an enjoyable visceral experience regarding trench warfare and the terror it instilled, especially of mortars.
> 
> I'd be interested in reading a dedicated WW1 clothing thread if you ever made one.


If you like podcasts, Dan Carlin's Hardcore History did a series on WWI a couple years ago. It is behind the paywall now, but you can get roughly 24 hours of content for $15 or so. Dan is awesome.


----------



## StephenRG

Peak and Pine said:


> June 1st. 1916, when the Brits took 57.000 casualties in a single 24 hour period, 20,000 of them dead.


Known to this day in parts of Northern England as "the day patriotism died" for the huge toll it took in Northern villages and the instantaneous change in social attitudes that resulted.


----------



## 215339

never behind said:


> If you like podcasts, Dan Carlin's Hardcore History did a series on WWI a couple years ago. It is behind the paywall now, but you can get roughly 24 hours of content for $15 or so. Dan is awesome.


Unfortunately I could never listen to podcasts, I'm more a visual guy with videos and pictures.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Troones

I just pulled the trigger on this green Donegal I've been eyeing for some time. And, as a bonus, Mrs. Troones is currently on a plane to visit the kids/grandkids, so I get to defer the "_how many jackets does one man actually need?!_" conversation for a few weeks. :beers:


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ That's really, really nice. Enjoy it. And I chuckled about the conversation you'll eventually have.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## David J. Cooper

Oldsarge said:


> Oh, let's go shooting!


In skinny jeans? If you do please post photos!


----------



## Oldsarge

David J. Cooper said:


> In skinny jeans? If you do please post photos!


Skinny Jeans? Where?:icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


>


I love this pic. Newman clearly loved clothes and was a big fan of Ivy in the '50s and '60s. But beyond that, the pic is great for its setting, its architectural details (like the penny rounds he's standing on), his wife (it's always interesting when a woman marries a man who is prettier than she) and the memory it evokes of picking through street bins just like that for books back in the day.


----------



## Fading Fast

Both feel like they might be dupes, hopefully, at least one isn't. 

















N.B. @eagle2250, note in the top pick, almost lost amidst the boutonniere and pocket square, it looks like our old friend the watch chain attached to the lapel buttonhole with the pocket watch itself in the breast pocket.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Both feel like they might be dupes, hopefully, at least one isn't.
> View attachment 49210
> 
> View attachment 49211
> 
> 
> N.B. @eagle2250, note in the top pick, almost lost amidst the boutonniere and pocket square, it looks like our old friend the watch chain attached to the lapel buttonhole with the pocket watch itself in the breast pocket.


You have a good eye, my friend. This early in the AM, I would have missed the watch chain.However, a question remains...in the bottom pic, is that a gold rimed white button on the wine hued cardigan or vest, whichever the case may be? :icon_scratch: In any event, I like that jacket!


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> You have a good eye, my friend. This early in the AM, I would have missed the watch chain.However, a question remains...in the bottom pic, is that a gold rimed white button on the wine hued cardigan or vest, whichever the case may be? :icon_scratch: In any event, I like that jacket!


Good question, but on my old screen, it just gets blurrier as I enlarge it. Maybe someone who's bought a computer in the last five years can tell us.


----------



## David J. Cooper

Oldsarge said:


> Skinny Jeans? Where?:icon_scratch:


The trousers in that ensemble appear to me to be black button fly skinny jeans.


----------



## Oldsarge

David J. Cooper said:


> The trousers in that ensemble appear to me to be black button fly skinny jeans.


Really? They look like moleskin knickers, to me.


----------



## 215339

The temptation to have another DB coat instead is very strong


----------



## Fading Fast

I like the sport coat and sweater together and the shirt's okay, but the pocket square and tie don't work at all in this outfit, IMO.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Summer tie and square. Winter coat and sweater. Another mess.


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## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 49271


Interesting picture...it inspires me to paraphrase Beyonce' from her song Single Ladies, "It's a fine tweed suit...if you wanna wear it, you shoulda put a tie on it" LOL!


----------



## Fading Fast




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## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 49358


I am generally not a fan of pleated pants, but the pair pictured in you post look pretty darned spiffy. The fabric pattern would make for a very handsome suit!


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> I am generally not a fan of pleated pants, but the pair pictured in you post look pretty darned spiffy. The fabric pattern would make for a very handsome suit!


The material reminds me of the suits in the illustrations in Apparel Arts from the 1930s.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Troones

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 49379


Proof that blue jeans can and do go very well with tweed!


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 49379


True confession(s); I just ordered an additional pair of my beloved Levi 541's. Thanks my friend, I really needed that/those! LOL.


----------



## Oldsarge

Troones said:


> Proof that blue jeans can and do go very well with tweed!


With the overcoat, yes. But _not_ with that jacket--which doesn't fit, anyway.


----------



## krock

Oldsarge said:


> With the overcoat, yes. But _not_ with that jacket--which doesn't fit, anyway.


In any case, I would pass jeans with single-strap monks.


----------



## 215339

__
http://instagr.am/p/CEbg-9CJnLS/


----------



## Troones

Oldsarge said:


> With the overcoat, yes. But _not_ with that jacket--which doesn't fit, anyway.


I was mainly referring to the overcoat as I think black and white herringbone flows seamlessly into that particular shade of denim. I have a black/white herringbone sport coat that I enjoy pairing with my jeans.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Picture taken while he was on the tarmac, just before take-off. I like this.


----------



## IT_cyclist

Peak and Pine said:


> Picture taken while he was on the tarmac, just before take-off. I like this.
> 
> View attachment 49404


That lapel very nearly eclipses the shoulders!


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

Dashing, isn't he?


----------



## StephenRG

IT_cyclist said:


> That lapel very nearly eclipses the shoulders!


And very fine they are too.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 49452


While not a big fan of Pea Coats, I do love that Tweed version, fitted with the leather elbow patches. I suspect the one pictured is almost bullet proof and is certainly built to last forever!


----------



## Peak and Pine

Do elbows wear out from articulation, or from rubbing on stuff, like leaning on a desk? I think the latter, making pads superfluous on a coat. Colors and cut too close to US Marine Corps. Pass.


----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> Do elbows wear out from articulation, or from rubbing on stuff, like leaning on a desk? I think the latter, making pads superfluous on a coat. Colors and cut too close to US Marine Corps. Pass.


LOL, I must have leaned on my desk a lot because I certainly blew through quite a number of elbows on my shirt sleeves, suit and sport jackets; hence my love affair with leather, suede and reinforced elbow patches.


----------



## Oldsarge

eagle2250 said:


> While not a big fan of Pea Coats, I do love that Tweed version, fitted with the leather elbow patches. I suspect the one pictured is almost bullet proof and is certainly built to last forever!


Certainly looks warm. Just the ticket for a stroll through the Highlands in March.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 49491


Lose the tie and the pocket square or put on an OCBD shirt. Tuck in the Rugby shirt or wear it out, but you just can't have it both ways. Get those sleeve cuffs on the jacket attended to. It appears the lining is torn loose and is spilling out around the guys wrist.If this is the best "Prep" can offer, I think I'm glad I haunted our public school system. Hip, hip hooray to the late great Lock Haven High School Bobcats! LOL.


----------



## never behind

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 49417


Did he tuck his sweater into his pants? That seems odd. :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Lose the tie and the pocket square or put on an OCBD shirt. Tuck in the Rugby shirt or wear it out, but you just can't have it both ways. Get those sleeve cuffs on the jacket attended to. It appears the lining is torn loose and is spilling out around the guys wrist.If this is the best "Prep" can offer, I think I'm glad I haunted our public school system. Hip, hip hooray to the late great Lock Haven High School Bobcats! LOL.





never behind said:


> Did he tuck his sweater into his pants? That seems odd. :icon_scratch:


I think, and I credit @eagle2250 with introducing this thought on another pic awhile back, that the Rugby is partially tucked in to show off the belt.

I could get comfortable with the Rugby, jeans and sport coat together, but the rolled up sleeve cuffs, half-tucked Rugby, PS and tie (not even sure what's going on with that) all looks affected.


----------



## Troones

My green Donegal sport coat (from post #4,716) arrived a few days ago....










I like it a lot. Its from Spier & Mackay, and makes my third purchase from them. I've yet to be disappointed.

Its an affordable brand, but the value for money is just absolutely incredible. Most of their jackets are Neapolitan styled, and they really get the details right in my opinion. Wide lapels, natural unpadded shoulder, 3/2 roll, Barchetta pocket and even the "Spalla Camicia" sleeve head are all there.










However, I have a question.... is my new jacket a tweed? If not I guess it doesn't belong in this thread after all.
I ask because the fabric, as beautiful as it is, is made in Italy (Bottoli) and has a softer hand than your standard tweed, and I've read a few older threads where this was debated. So could this in fact be considered a Donegal tweed, or a tweed at all for that matter?

Not that it will impact my enjoyment of the jacket. Its just that it if anyone ever compliments me on it, I'd like to be able to say:

"Oh thanks! It's a Donegal tweed"

instead of:

"Oh thanks! Its made to resemble a Donegal tweed though its not really. Sit down and I'll explain what factors prevent it from being considered a true tweed."

I'd love to hear some opinions on this.


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## Fading Fast

Troones said:


> My green Donegal sport coat (from post #4,716) arrived a few days ago....
> 
> View attachment 49493
> 
> 
> I like it a lot. Its from Spier & Mackay, and makes my third purchase from them. I've yet to be disappointed.
> 
> Its an affordable brand, but the value for money is just absolutely incredible. Most of their jackets are Neapolitan styled, and they really get the details right in my opinion. Wide lapels, natural unpadded shoulder, 3/2 roll, Barchetta pocket and even the "Spalla Camicia" sleeve head are all there.
> 
> View attachment 49495
> 
> 
> However, I have a question.... is my new jacket a tweed? If not I guess it doesn't belong in this thread after all.
> I ask because the fabric, as beautiful as it is, is made in Italy (Bottoli) and has a softer hand than your standard tweed, and I've read a few older threads where this was debated. So could this in fact be considered a Donegal tweed, or a tweed at all for that matter?
> 
> Not that it will impact my enjoyment of the jacket. Its just that it if anyone ever compliments me on it, I'd like to be able to say:
> 
> "Oh thanks! It's a Donegal tweed"
> 
> instead of:
> 
> "Oh thanks! Its made to resemble a Donegal tweed though its not really. Sit down and I'll explain what factors prevent it from being considered a true tweed."
> 
> I'd love to hear some opinions on this.


First, that is a beautiful sport coat - enjoy and wear it in good health.

I love that it appears to be only partially lined, which, IMO, is good for a jacket like this as it it plenty warm without adding in a full lining.

As to Tweed, others are simply more knowledgeable than I, but my understanding is that, today, Tweed is a reasonably generic term for a rough finished and heavy wool material.

It has a history that is narrower than that, but today, we kinda use it to cover a wide swath of material that, again, are rough/heavy wools. (I've even seen other materials - cotton and silk - with a rough finishes described as Tweed, but that seems like a stretch to me.)

Harris and Donegal Tweeds are legal terms that apply to Tweeds made in a certain way from a certain part of Ireland.

So, unless your label says Harris or Donegal, I'd say what you have is a "generic" Tweed jacket. And a quite handsome one at that.

Last point, all the above is my not-professional opinion - I'm happy to be corrected by others.

Edit add: As to this thread, like with many threads, they drift and are pretty loosely defined. Pretty much, any rough / heavy wool material makes the cut for us to discuss in this thread.


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## Troones

Fading Fast said:


> First, that is a beautiful sport coat - enjoy and wear it in good health.
> 
> I love that it appears to be only partially lined, which, IMO, is good for a jacket like this as it it plenty warm without adding in a full lining.
> 
> As to Tweed, others are simply more knowledgeable than I, but my understanding is that, today, Tweed is a reasonably generic term for a rough finished and heavy wool material.
> 
> It has a history that is narrower than that, but today, we kinda use it to cover a wide swath of material that, again, are rough/heavy wools. (I've even seen other materials - cotton and silk - with a rough finishes described as Tweed, but that seems like a stretch to me.)
> 
> Harris and Donegal Tweeds are legal terms that apply to Tweeds made in a certain way from a certain part of Ireland.
> 
> So, unless your label says Harris or Donegal, I'd say what you have is a "generic" Tweed jacket. And a quite handsome one at that.
> 
> Last point, all the above is my not-professional opinion - I'm happy to be corrected by others.
> 
> Edit add: As to this thread, like with many threads, they drift and are pretty loosely defined. Pretty much, any rough / heavy wool material makes the cut for us to discuss in this thread.


Very succinct, thanks for the info. I knew that Harris tweed was a legal term and I have a couple of Harris tweeds, but I didn't realize the same was true for Donegal. Silly me, as my Mother was born not in, but very very close to County Donegal!


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## Oldsarge

I would like to see a reference establishing that the Donegal is a 'legal' definition. I never have. Either way, that is a beautiful coat.


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## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 49491


He looks like the kind of kid who when I was in college sported 'radical chic', being a spoiled WASP trying to cop an attitude. I don't call it a fail, just 'one of those things'.


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## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> I would like to see a reference establishing that the Donegal is a 'legal' definition. I never have. Either way, that is a beautiful coat.


Your post got me to check and you are correct:

"Unlike Harris Tweed whose provenance has been closely protected, Donegal tweed never achieved such status. Though the name comes from a specific geographic location, the term "donegal" can refer today to any tweed with this characteristic flecked pattern. But properly it should come only from that single county."

Full article: https://clan.com/blog/tweed-types-names


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## Fading Fast




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## 215339

delicious_scent said:


> __
> http://instagr.am/p/CEbg-9CJnLS/


So I went from wanting a blue tweed coat, to a traditional black/white herringbone, and now this giant PoW check coat.

This cloth is a heavier 24oz, more interesting looking, yet I think will still be versatile. Also cool to know it's undyed with no chemicals either.

The black/white Magee herringbone was out of stock till mid-October, and this was even cheaper, so it was a very obvious choice to me, finally no more indecision!

If anyone is interested, you can get cloth like this by contacting Marling & Evans directly via their e-mail and phone number.

The total cost, with shipping, comes out to about $72USD/metre. The shipping cost is hefty which drove up the price, but it's still a great value.

It does make me feel that companies like Fox charge ridiculous prices in comparison at 4-5x the cost. I doubt that's a quality difference.

I've read this is something to do with Merchants vs. Mills.

Now to receive the cloth. Hopefully my tailor can make a great raglan sleeve for my coat, that'll be the final step.


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## Oldsarge

From disheveled to 'sheveled'.


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## ran23

Autumn can't come soon enough.


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## never behind

ran23 said:


> Autumn can't come soon enough.


It cooled down last weekend, and I got excited. Pulled out a lightweight flannel.

Now I'm back to wearing shorts/polo.


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## Fading Fast




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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 49558


A Tweed coat or Tweed body armor...and standing in plain view is the reclusive throat latch; proof perhaps that this shot was taken in the wild! Seriously, I love that coat. Thanks foe sharing it with us.


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## Fading Fast




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## Troones

^ I've gotta have the one in the top pic. I wouldn't say no to the bottom one either!


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## Fading Fast

Troones said:


> ^ I've gotta have the one in the top pic. I wouldn't say no to the bottom one either!


The top one is a little bold for me, but I like it a lot; the bottom one is right in my sweet spot.


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## 215339

Troones said:


> ^ I've gotta have the one in the top pic. I wouldn't say no to the bottom one either!


Well, time to be an enabler, I've seen something similiar.

https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/marling-evans-undyed-check-s1592-15577a1-24522


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## Fading Fast




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## Fading Fast




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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 49658


Good looking coat and jacket, both of them. However, what's with the sweater, tied around his butt? Not sure I'd want to wear that sweater in the normal way after it's been used as a fart filter.


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## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Good looking coat and jacket, both of them. However, what's with the sweater, tied around his butt? Not sure I'd want to wear that sweater in the normal way after it's been used as a fart filter.


I think so much of what we see here and in other pics - sweaters tied around waists, collars popped, extensive layering, unbuttoned OCBD collars, sweatpants with sport coats, etc. - is "fashion" trying to do something different because that's what "fashion" does.

Sometimes, something "fashion" does takes off, but most of the time, the "fashion" stuff just flies by in pics or on the runway and the rest of us go on living our lives without doing the more extreme stuff.


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## 215339

I got my tweed fabric finally. 4m is a lot more than I expected. I had to unravel it all and take a picture. I couldn't get the entire length in!










The hand feel is what you'd expect for tweed: very hairy and scratchy, spongey and stretchy, but also seriously THICK. I'd put this at 24oz for weight I'd say. I don't know how conversions work, but it was listed at 720g.


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## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> I got my tweed fabric finally. 4m is a lot more than I expected. I had to unravel it all and take a picture. I couldn't get the entire length in!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hand feel is what you'd expect for tweed: very hairy and scratchy, spongey and stretchy, but also seriously THICK. I'd put this at 24oz for weight I'd say. I don't know how conversions work, but it was listed at 720g.


Very exiting. Looking forward to seeing this develop.


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## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> Very exiting. Looking forward to seeing this develop.


I definitely got a massive grin when I opened the package, it weighs a solid 7 lbs.

Will definitely post about the process as I go on.


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## FiscalDean

delicious_scent said:


> I got my tweed fabric finally. 4m is a lot more than I expected. I had to unravel it all and take a picture. I couldn't get the entire length in!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hand feel is what you'd expect for tweed: very hairy and scratchy, spongey and stretchy, but also seriously THICK. I'd put this at 24oz for weight I'd say. I don't know how conversions work, but it was listed at 720g.


That would be 25.4 oz. What is the width? It looks to be less than the standard 60".


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## 215339

FiscalDean said:


> That would be 25.4 oz. What is the width? It looks to be less than the standard 60".


Gotcha. I didn't measure it, but it said 146cm on the tag, or 57.4" for width.


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## Oldsarge

Makes you wonder. Once Brexit if accomplished while the Brits go back to imperial measurements?


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## Fading Fast




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## Fading Fast




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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 49669


The picture above is how I like to visualize myself and my wardrobe present day, but alas, to achieve that image I would have to liposuction 30+ pounds from around my middle...and that's just gotta hurt...and grow out my hair considerably! LOL.


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## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 49669





Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 49715


They look like a couple of yeoman farmers on their way to market. Though why the chap in the cap is wearing such a short waistcoat is a puzzle.


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## Fading Fast

Yesterday, in the mail (the paper kind), a catalogue from Todd Synder showed up. I was maybe aware that a brand by that name existed, but I had no idea what it was and had certainly never bought anything from it nor signed up for its catalogue. I guess it bought my name and address from some list.

Anywho, I only half looked through it as I was standing in the kitchen talking with my girlfriend, but I did see this kinda Tweed coat, I guess.

It's interesting that the description uses the terms "Balmacaan," "Donegal" and "twill," but not "Tweed." Considering (as we learned earlier in this thread) that "Donegal Tweed" is not a legally protected name (hence, get close to something wooly, scratchy and with flecks of color and you're good to go), I'm surprised Todd Snyder didn't use the term "Tweed."

But then, who knows what its marketing / target demographic says / thinks about the word "Tweed." Maybe "twill" sells better or maybe it felt "twill" more accurately described the weave.

ITALIAN DONEGAL TWILL BALMACAAN COAT IN BROWN















Description from the website:_ The Balmacaan [pronounced bal-MA-can] takes its name from the Scottish estate near Inverness where this style was reportedly first seen in the 19th Century. The key attributes are raglan sleeves (unstructured), a fly-button front, a Prussian collar (it resembles a men's shirt more than a suit lapel) and a slightly slouchy fit. There's nothing slouchy about the fabrication, though: The Donegal patterned cloth is made from Italian virgin wool for a luxurious hand feel and genuine horn buttons._


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## Oldsarge




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## Fading Fast

This came in email from Polo yesterday titled "Tweed Season"


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## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 49745


The Ivy Cap, the crew neck sweater and those classic Persol Glasses...perfect! You should cross post that handsome gentleman to the "What Are You Wearing Today" thread.


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## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> This came in email from Polo yesterday titled "Tweed Season"
> View attachment 49749


And a beagle is a perfect accessory.


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## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> And a beagle is a perfect accessory.


Agreed and what a handsome little fella he is.


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## Fading Fast




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## 215339

A Balmacaan from a Drapers fabric. Mr. Pink from styfo commissioned this one from Hemrajani.


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## Fading Fast




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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 49787


I love the jacket and it works Ok with the blue jeans, and that black knit polo shirt could have worked if the gentleman had just not buttoned that top button. That looks so dorky, I say as I serruptisciously unbutton the first button on this day's vented fishing shirt! LOL!


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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge

And this to go with it.


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## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 49812


I do like the cap - I'd love it if those made a true comeback (but who are we kidding.) Also, let's be honest, she could wear a garbage bag on her head and it would still look good.


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## Fading Fast




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## FiscalDean

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 49855


Love the SC but I personally wouldn't pair it with that sweater or shirt.


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## Troones

A couple of my favorites....


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## Fading Fast

Troones said:


> A couple of my favorites....
> 
> View attachment 49863


If I wasn't already struggling to find enough opportunities to wear my many herringbone tweed sport coats , I'd want to add a dove-grey one, like the one on the right here, to my collection.


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## Fading Fast

By themselves, the coat, sport coat and vest are all nice, but together they are too much IMHO. The sport coat is the only one that I'd want in my closet, but all three are nice pieces individually.


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## Fading Fast




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## Troones

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 49897


That's an interesting pocket set up on his right side. Is that a patch ticket pocket/double pocket? I've never seen that before.


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## Fading Fast

Troones said:


> That's an interesting pocket set up on his right side. Is that a patch ticket pocket/double pocket? I've never seen that before.


It's definitely unusual. I see what you're thinking and agree that it might be a double pocket as the material at the top's pattern doesn't align vertically which appears to indicate a second (and oddly larger) opening.

Well, I only like to do this when Gotham is in trouble, but I think we have to use our new (now with moving light) Bat Signal for this one and call in our expert @Matt S for an opinion.


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## Matt S

Fading Fast said:


> It's definitely unusual. I see what you're thinking and agree that it might be a double pocket as the material at the top's pattern doesn't align vertically which appears to indicate a second (and oddly larger) opening.
> 
> Well, I only like to do this when Gotham is in trouble, but I think we have to use our new (now with moving light) Bat Signal for this one and call in our expert @Matt S for an opinion.
> View attachment 49900


I have seen patch ticket pockets inside larger patch pockets. It's an Italian thing.


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## 215339

I don't like standard ticket pockets because they're a weird distraction right by your waist and add bulk, same reason I don't like giant square flapped pockets on sports jackets.


Matt S said:


> I have seen patch ticket pockets inside larger patch pockets. It's an Italian thing.


S&M focuses a lot on Italian style, so to that...

__
http://instagr.am/p/CF7RVotsQQk/

I'm neutral on patch ticket pockets. They seem to blend in more and aren't as intrusive to an aesthetic.


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## Oldsarge

Fall color . . .


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## Matt S

delicious_scent said:


> I don't like standard ticket pockets because they're a weird distraction right by your waist and add bulk, same reason I don't like giant square flapped pockets on sports jackets.
> 
> S&M focuses a lot on Italian style, so to that...
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/CF7RVotsQQk/
> 
> I'm neutral on patch ticket pockets. They seem to blend in more and aren't as intrusive to an aesthetic.


I don't care much for patch pockets for the bulk they add, and flapped patch pockets are the worst by far! I also don't care for wearing ticket pockets because of the bulk right at the waist, but I like the idea of them. I'm really into fussy details! I get most of my jackets with flapped hacking pockets and no ticket pocket. I came close to asking for slanted jetted pockets on my dinner jacket, as there's nothing that looks more streamlined, but I went for straight because I knew I wouldn't regret that decision.


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## 215339

Matt S said:


> I don't care much for patch pockets for the bulk they add, and flapped patch pockets are the worst by far! I also don't care for wearing ticket pockets because of the bulk right at the waist, but I like the idea of them. I'm really into fussy details! I get most of my jackets with flapped hacking pockets and no ticket pocket. I came close to asking for slanted jetted pockets on my dinner jacket, as there's nothing that looks more streamlined, but I went for straight because I knew I wouldn't regret that decision.


Hmm, I never even thought about the bulk of regular patch pockets. I'm biased towards them, but you're right in that they add bulk.

I do like how much more casual they look compared to flap pockets, and they're often paired with other "rounded" features like the lapel curve, natural shirt shoulder etc.

A hacking pocket does sound interesting though, I've never given it a shot. I may consider one for a SB top coat if I ever have one made.

Agreed that you can never go wrong with straight pockets. You can always tuck the flaps in to get a sleeker look as well.


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## Fading Fast

⇧ Interesting conversation on the pockets gentlemen - thank you.


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## Fading Fast




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## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 49932


Nice! And it could be double posted on the sport coat and turtleneck thread.


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## Fading Fast




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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 49978


Very nice...and potentially very warm! LOL. Temps around here are projected to be in the 90's today.


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## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Very nice...and potentially very warm! LOL. Temps around here are projected to be in the 90's today.


You can really feel the weight and texture of that sport coat. It reminds me of the ones I used to see in BB, Press or Gorsarts - Tweeds made to keep you warm and stop a bullet.


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## Fading Fast




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## Troones

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 49978


Wow! There's nothing about this I don't like.


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## Fading Fast

Troones said:


> Wow! There's nothing about this I don't like.


I thought it was well done too. The vest is a bit too much for my personal style, but it absolutely works very well in the outfit. I love that sport coat and think they found the best tie in the world to go with it.


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## Fading Fast

Title on the pic said vintage Harris Tweed.


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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Title on the pic said vintage Harris Tweed.
> View attachment 50029


Vintage or not, the jacket has a definite appeal to it, the fabric pattern, the cut of the cloth, etc. Although there is a possibility of an imbalance to the shoulder padding...The right shoulder looks a bit broader than the left, but that might be the result of poor presentation of the garment to the photographer. Tell me the handsome beast is fitted with suede elbow patches and I will declare my undying love for it!


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## Oldsarge




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## Fading Fast




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## Troones

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 50044
> 
> 
> View attachment 50045


Regarding the second photo; I know many here are not fans of the sweater 'round the shoulders look while wearing a jacket. The rationale being that if you were wearing sweater + jacket and got too hot, the logical thing would just be to take off the jacket.

I get that, and I used to agree. However, consider this. If you take off the jacket, you either have to carry it in your arm, or flung over your shoulder. I've never been able to hold a jacket over my shoulder without it slipping down. Its annoying. So, instead, you take off both, put the jacket back on, then wrap on the sweater, and enjoy your two free hands. I'm sorry, I have to admit I like the look.🤷‍♂️


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## Fading Fast




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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 50073


I like the rig overall, but the deep purple socks are a bit much...they don't even match the tie, if that means anything! LOL.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> I like the rig overall, but the deep purple socks are a bit much...they don't even match the tie, if that means anything! LOL.


I'm of two minds about the socks. First, their color works in the outfit, so fine, but, second, they are clearly there to "stand out," or "make a statement"("I'm not as conservative as the outfit otherwise says"), which, IMO, is asking a lot of a pair of socks. Kidding aside, the socks-as-statement meme is a cliche for a reason, so I avoid it.

@upr_crust is a master at mixing in interesting and contrasting socks without making them the center of attention. That's the way to do it. Even bold socks should enhance, not stand out in, an outfit, as his do. It's a balance, but you don't want to be _that guy_ wearing an OCBD, cable knit-sweater but with loud pattern socks to show you're a "rebel."


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## Fading Fast

From the Saltwater New England website: https://www.saltwaternewengland.com


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## Oldsarge

The jacket is wonderful.










And the suit isn't half shabby either.


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## 215339

@Peak and Pine this looks to be the same dark green tweed I ordered a swatch of. Looks like the maker had the same idea of going for a Balmacaan.


__
http://instagr.am/p/CFwMmN0sdsf/


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## Oldsarge




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## Fading Fast




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## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 50137


Looks bulletproof and so very nicely done!


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## Troones

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 50143


Here's my homage to that wonderful rig. I know all the elements aren't identical but pretty close I think. The tie is a grenadine as well but I know its tough to tell in the photo. Next on my shopping list; green cardigan.


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## Fading Fast




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## Fading Fast




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## FiscalDean

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 50167


WOW, there is "no break" and then there is "*NO BREAK*". That might be a little less jarring with a different pair of socks.


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## Fading Fast

FiscalDean said:


> WOW, there is "no break" and then there is "*NO BREAK*". That might be a little less jarring with a different pair of socks.


I noticed it too; feels very "fashiony." Wouldn't be surprised if it is from a few years ago when "flood" pants and loud socks was a look I noticed the newer menswear companies were showing to young guys.


----------



## Troones

Fading Fast said:


> I noticed it too; feels very "fashiony." Wouldn't be surprised if it is from a few years ago when "flood" pants and loud socks was a look I noticed the newer menswear companies were showing to young guys.


I also prefer more break than that, but that tweed really speaks to me. I'd feel it a bit too much as a suit, but as a pair of odd trousers, or just a jacket, I could make great use of.


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## Oldsarge

And the jacket with the bellows pocket is right up my . . . uh, hedgerow.


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## Fading Fast




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## Fading Fast

Once again, a periodic visit to 1940 comic-strip land where we see an incredible variety of men's suits and sport coats (some Tweed) on regular guys waiting in line to register for the draft (today, October 16th 1940, was Selective Service Registration Day):


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## Fading Fast




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## FiscalDean

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 50238
> View attachment 50239


 I like the tweeds, the shirts and the ties. There has probably been enough discussion surrounding the un-buttoned button downs and the tie bar.


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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 50238
> View attachment 50239


The rig in the top photo is a strikingly handsome combination of garments and accessories. The Tweed jacket in the second photo is just as memorable, but OCBD collars are meant to be buttoned!


----------



## Fading Fast

FiscalDean said:


> I like the tweeds, the shirts and the ties. There has probably been enough discussion surrounding the un-buttoned button downs and the tie bar.





eagle2250 said:


> The rig in the top photo is a strikingly handsome combination of garments and accessories. The Tweed jacket in the second photo is just as memorable, but OCBD collars are meant to be buttoned!


Agree completely with you guys. And, just in case either of you happened to miss it, I posted this about the unbuttoned OCBD recently: #1,080

And, coincidentally, I read, after I posted that, that Ryan O'Neal's wardrobe for "Love Story" was bought at J.Press in Cambridge. His clothes in the movie are a time capsule of Ivy clothes circa 1970.


----------



## Troones

Fading Fast said:


> Agree completely with you guys. And, just in case either of you happened to miss it, I posted this about the unbuttoned OCBD recently: #1,080
> 
> And, coincidentally, I read, after I posted that, that Ryan O'Neal's wardrobe for "Love Story" was bought at J.Press in Cambridge. His clothes in the movie are a time capsule of Ivy clothes circa 1970.


I love that you and others have posted several photos lately of tweed paired with university stripe shirts. I was surprised to see in some of the earliest posts in this thread of some members dislike of the pairing. I think it's a classic combination and looks amazing almost every time.


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## Fading Fast




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## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 50261


He needs to either shave or grow a real beard.


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## Fading Fast




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## StephenRG

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 50288


For when Rupert Bear grows up.


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## Fading Fast

StephenRG said:


> For when Rupert Bear grows up.


Had to Google "Rupert Bear," but now I get it. I did not know my favorite British bear, Paddington had competition.

I always liked that Paddington wore a duffle coat.


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## Fading Fast




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## Oldsarge




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## Fading Fast




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## Fading Fast




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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 50370


Nice rig....except for, perhaps, the tie and out of respect for the poster, I won't mention the pocket square....but if I did it would be something along the lines that pocket squares should be reserved for suits......formal suits and for Tweeds, if you feel you must stuff something in that breast pocket, have a pair of classic Tortoiseshell glasseshanging over the edge of that pocket.


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## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Nice rig....except for, perhaps, the tie and out of respect for the poster, I won't mention the pocket square....but if I did it would be something along the lines that pocket squares should be reserved for suits......formal suits and for Tweeds, if you feel you must stuff something in that breast pocket, have a pair of classic Tortoiseshell glasseshanging over the edge of that pocket.


The Tweed itself is stunning. Love to find something like that today (which could then join all my other sport coats hanging idle in my closet). Appreciate the PS comment  . If not a pair of tortoiseshell glasses (I like that idea), how 'bout a watch chain looped from the lapel button to a pocket watch in the breast pocket?


----------



## 215339

I dig the pocket square. It's a subtle splash of colour, wouldn't change it.


----------



## 215339

While awaiting my coat to be made, I keep finding images made up from other cloths that are the same weight from Marling & Evans.

This one is from Simon James Cathcart, seems to be a group MTO available on their website. Check out the unique slanted patch pockets.


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## 215339

Then this looks to be the actual cloth I used, and the exact same makeup I aimed to duplicate. I hope my coat looks this great


__
http://instagr.am/p/B6A2l4-phf2/


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## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> Then this looks to be the actual cloth I used, and the exact same makeup I aimed to duplicate. I hope my coat looks this great
> 
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/B6A2l4-phf2/


Very excited for you and very excited to see the coat - it's going to be fantastic.


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## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> Very excited for you and very excited to see the coat - it's going to be fantastic.


Thanks man.

I wonder how long this process usually takes, as I have no idea. He's a local tailor.

Also curious to see how the pattern matching turns out by the shoulder area. He did say he'd contact me if raglan sleeves didn't work with his pattern.


----------



## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> Thanks man.
> 
> I wonder how long this process usually takes, as I have no idea. He's a local tailor.
> 
> Also curious to see how the pattern matching turns out by the shoulder area. He did say he'd contact me if raglan sleeves didn't work with his pattern.


I hope he can do the raglan sleeves for you as they are such a wonderful part of the overall look. That said, I have a Pendleton one without raglan sleeves that I love..


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## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> I hope he can do the raglan sleeves for you as they are such a wonderful part of the overall look. That said, I have a Pendleton one without raglan sleeves that I love..


Agreed. Half the appeal is the thick patterned tweed look for me, and the other half is the slouchy natural shoulders.

Any pictures of that Pendleton?


----------



## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> Agreed. Half the appeal is the thick patterned tweed look for me, and the other half is the slouchy natural shoulders.
> 
> Any pictures of that Pendleton?


The only mirrors we have in our 1928 apartment are from 1928, so I apologize for the poor picture clarity of the larger shot.


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## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> The only mirrors we have in our 1928 apartment are from 1928, so I apologize for the poor picture clarity of the larger shot.
> View attachment 50391
> View attachment 50392
> View attachment 50393


Fading, that is an amazing piece of outerwear. I know you love black/white herringbone tweeds, so from my point of view, that is a signature coat.

The shoulders look nice and soft too, that gives me some relief that my own coat will turn out well even if I have to go set-in sleeves. It has a nice straight silhouette that I dig too. My pause for set-in sleeves was probably due to my own current tweed coat coat having prominent roped shoulders, and I'm not a fan.

I did opt for a slightly bigger silhouette than originally intended for the upcoming coat because the test OTR coat felt too tight with a slimmer fit when raising my arms. Tailor suggested a clean back too, no upper back inverted pleat. I made sure to emphasize no skirt/sweep flaring either.

I love the unrepentantly beefy patch pockets too, most coats these days have tiny ones. I'm guessing that's because most coats now are shorter so bigger pockets may look unbalanced, but I'm not a fan regardless.

Finally, the length is perfect. Looks like some nice boots beneath the coat in the first picture.

No worries on the picture quality either, I got the gist of it. My phone is a potato and takes bad ones.


----------



## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> Fading, that is an amazing piece of outerwear. I know you love black/white herringbone tweeds, so from my point of view, that is a signature coat.
> 
> The shoulders look nice and soft too, that gives me some relief that my own coat will turn out well even if I have to go set-in sleeves. It has a nice straight silhouette that I dig too. My pause for set-in sleeves was probably due to my own current tweed coat coat having prominent roped shoulders, and I'm not a fan.
> 
> I did opt for a slightly bigger silhouette than originally intended for the upcoming coat because the test OTR coat felt too tight with a slimmer fit when raising my arms. Tailor suggested a clean back too, no upper back inverted pleat. I made sure to emphasize no skirt/sweep flaring either.
> 
> I love the unrepentantly beefy patch pockets too, most coats these days have tiny ones. I'm guessing that's because most coats now are shorter so bigger pockets may look unbalanced, but I'm not a fan regardless.
> 
> Finally, the length is perfect. Looks like some nice boots beneath the coat in the first picture.
> 
> No worries on the picture quality either, I got the gist of it. My phone is a potato and takes bad ones.


Thank you. Your comments nailed the shoulders perfectly as they are soft and not roped, so while not being my preferred raglan, they look good to my eye - and feel good when wearing the coat.

I, too, love the big patch pockets as they very much say, "I'm not a refined top coat for a fancy night out; instead, I'm a work-a-day overcoat to get the job done." And the pockets are incredibly functional as they hold a lot and are easy to access (I didn't know how great big patch pockets are until I got this coat). And, IMO, they look freakin' great.

Agreed on the length and line as well. Also, the collar "pops" and holds well. For me, the only collar I'll ever "pop" is on an overcoat as it serves a function to further protect your neck and the back of your head from wind and cold.

I really love this coat.

Now, I'm even more excited about your coat, any ETA?

Regarding the boots, thank you for your comment. They are from Sperry via a partnership it had with J.Crew. They've become my go-to everyday boot when not dressing up. Being J.Crew, I got them on sale (just sub $100) and bought a second pair six months or so later on the next sale just as a back up pair (partnership products at J.Crew tend to go on sale less frequently than the regular J.Crew stuff, which goes on sale every other week or so).

I don't think they are making them (at least in partnership with J.Crew) anymore, but J.Crew does have a few sizes left.


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## Fading Fast




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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 50394


Love the rig, but all that raw wool makes me itch and break out in a rash! LOL.


----------



## Oldsarge

eagle2250 said:


> Love the rig, but all that raw wool makes me itch and break out in a rash! LOL.


I, on the other hand, want to just curl up inside it and smile.


----------



## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> Thank you. Your comments nailed the shoulders perfectly as they are soft and not roped, so while not being my preferred raglan, they look good to my eye - and feel good when wearing the coat.
> 
> I, too, love the big patch pockets as they very much say, "I'm not a refined top coat for a fancy night out; instead, I'm a work-a-day overcoat to get the job done." And the pockets are incredibly functional as they hold a lot and are easy to access (I didn't know how great big patch pockets are until I got this coat). And, IMO, they look freakin' great.
> 
> Agreed on the length and line as well. Also, the collar "pops" and holds well. For me, the only collar I'll ever "pop" is on an overcoat as it serves a function to further protect your neck and the back of your head from wind and cold.
> 
> I really love this coat.
> 
> Now, I'm even more excited about your coat, any ETA?
> 
> Regarding the boots, thank you for your comment. They are from Sperry via a partnership it had with J.Crew. They've become my go-to everyday boot when not dressing up. Being J.Crew, I got them on sale (just sub $100) and bought a second pair six months or so later on the next sale just as a back up pair (partnership products at J.Crew tend to go on sale less frequently than the regular J.Crew stuff, which goes on sale every other week or so).
> 
> I don't think they are making them (at least in partnership with J.Crew) anymore, but J.Crew does have a few sizes left.


The patch pockets look big enough to hold a wallet, keys, and big cellphone, and still have room left over to plunge your hands in. I can't say the same for most coats today!

Is there anything special about the collar build? I was also looking for a poppable collar, and Simon from Permanent Style mentioned putting in an insert in a collar for a bespoke coat. I brought this up to my tailor and said he found it unnecessary.

I gave my tailor a call and he said he'll let me know in a couple weeks for the first fitting. Sounds like raglan is a go too!

That sounds like a damn good deal on those boots, especially with the backup pair. I'm always a sucker for pictures, could you post a full shot of them in one of our various shoe threads?

I've a pair of Red Wing Beckmans that basically serve the same purpose for me, but the toe is quite bulbous and chunky.

The moccasin shoes also look very nice. I've always wanted a pair, but unfortunately I need strong arch support due to my bad feet.


----------



## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> The patch pockets look big enough to hold a wallet, keys, and big cellphone, and still have room left over to plunge your hands in. I can't say the same for most coats today!
> 
> Is there anything special about the collar build? I was also looking for a poppable collar, and Simon from Permanent Style mentioned putting in an insert in a collar for a bespoke coat. I brought this up to my tailor and said he found it unnecessary.
> 
> I gave my tailor a call and he said he'll let me know in a couple weeks for the first fitting. Sounds like raglan is a go too!
> 
> That sounds like a damn good deal on those boots, especially with the backup pair. I'm always a sucker for pictures, could you post a full shot of them in one of our various shoe threads?
> 
> I've a pair of Red Wing Beckmans that basically serve the same purpose for me, but the toe is quite bulbous and chunky.
> 
> The moccasin shoes also look very nice. I've always wanted a pair, but unfortunately I need strong arch support due to my bad feet.


The patches are so big and functional that it's almost like having a briefcase built into the coat.

I'm not knowledgable enough to speak in detail, but the collar is definitely lined/supported with something that allows it to stay up (as you see in the pics) in a natural, not-stiff, way - it rolls softly when up. It is the perfect balance of structure and softness.

Great to here it's a go on the raglan sleeves.

Re the Chukkas, here is the J.Crew link and a pic (yes, they come wonderfully scuffed like that - I put mink oil on them once a year and that's it):









https://www.jcrew.com/us/p/mens_category/shoes_sneakers/boots/sperry-for-jcrew-chukka-boots/F6170?color_name=chinook-brown&noPopUp=true&srccode=Paid_Search|Smart_Shopping|Google|SS_ACQ_MPROD_SHOESxxxxxxxx_EVG_ROAS_XXX_COUSA_EN_EN_A_CREW_GO_SH_SSC_xxxxxxxxxx,shop_mshoes_x_xxx,PRODUCT_GROUP,71700000073582938,58700006374250879,p57824858494&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Paid_Search&utm_campaign=SS_ACQ_MPROD_SHOESxxxxxxxx_EVG_ROAS_XXX_COUSA_EN_EN_A_CREW_GO_SH_SSC_xxxxxxxxxx,shop_mshoes_x_xxx&utm_content=Shopping&NoPopUp=True&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=CjwKCAjw_sn8BRBrEiwAnUGJDvpn91_DR1llHP4C83BJMVbQbYb6ykCm968w6r08mtTwPCGNfgqpvBoCbO8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I, too, have flat feet, but have found with Dr. Scholl's arch support inserts (about $10 at the big discount chains online), I can wear just about any no-arch shoe like these. They have made a huge difference for me. Maybe they could help you too.
https://www.drscholls.com/p/pain-relief/orthotics-for-arch-pain/


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## Oldsarge




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## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> The patches are so big and functional that it's almost like having a briefcase built into the coat.
> 
> I'm not knowledgable enough to speak in detail, but the collar is definitely lined/supported with something that allows it to stay up (as you see in the pics) in a natural, not-stiff, way - it rolls softly when up. It is the perfect balance of structure and softness.
> 
> Great to here it's a go on the raglan sleeves.
> 
> Re the Chukkas, here is the J.Crew link and a pic (yes, they come wonderfully scuffed like that - I put mink oil on them once a year and that's it):
> View attachment 50417
> 
> 
> https://www.jcrew.com/us/p/mens_category/shoes_sneakers/boots/sperry-for-jcrew-chukka-boots/F6170?color_name=chinook-brown&noPopUp=true&srccode=Paid_Search|Smart_Shopping|Google|SS_ACQ_MPROD_SHOESxxxxxxxx_EVG_ROAS_XXX_COUSA_EN_EN_A_CREW_GO_SH_SSC_xxxxxxxxxx,shop_mshoes_x_xxx,PRODUCT_GROUP,71700000073582938,58700006374250879,p57824858494&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Paid_Search&utm_campaign=SS_ACQ_MPROD_SHOESxxxxxxxx_EVG_ROAS_XXX_COUSA_EN_EN_A_CREW_GO_SH_SSC_xxxxxxxxxx,shop_mshoes_x_xxx&utm_content=Shopping&NoPopUp=True&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=CjwKCAjw_sn8BRBrEiwAnUGJDvpn91_DR1llHP4C83BJMVbQbYb6ykCm968w6r08mtTwPCGNfgqpvBoCbO8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
> 
> I, too, have flat feet, but have found with Dr. Scholl's arch support inserts (about $10 at the big discount chains online), I can wear just about any no-arch shoe like these. They have made a huge difference for me. Maybe they could help you too.
> https://www.drscholls.com/p/pain-relief/orthotics-for-arch-pain/


Ok, that gives me enough information to communicate to my tailor. If I find the collar is floppy, I can just ask him to line it to give it some structure and see what he says.

I've experimented with orthotics in the past and found they take up too much volume and then consequently make shoes too tight for me unfortunately.

Though it sounds like the lesson here is I need to check out J. Crew more frequently, ironically, despite them declaring bankruptcy. I've always viewed them as overpriced in the past and never looked beyond that to look at sales.

They seem to carry nice field jackets too for $250-300. Weird how I'm willing to pay so much more now despite not having more income.


----------



## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> Ok, that gives me enough information to communicate to my tailor. If I find the collar is floppy, I can just ask him to line it to give it some structure and see what he says.
> 
> I've experimented with orthotics in the past and found they take up too much volume and then consequently make shoes too tight for me unfortunately.
> 
> Though it sounds like the lesson here is I need to check out J. Crew more frequently, ironically, despite them declaring bankruptcy. I've always viewed them as overpriced in the past and never looked beyond that to look at sales.
> 
> They seem to carry nice field jackets too for $250-300. Weird how I'm willing to pay so much more now despite not having more income.


Maybe try the orthotics again as they've made them lighter and smaller than they were even five years ago. I would just like you to have the success with them that I've had as they've allowed me to wear shoes I had to stop wearing.

J.Crew is a on-sale-only purchase, but on sale, I've found there to be great value.


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## Fading Fast




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## Oldsarge




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## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> Maybe try the orthotics again as they've made them lighter and smaller than they were even five years ago. I would just like you to have the success with them that I've had as they've allowed me to wear shoes I had to stop wearing.
> 
> J.Crew is a on-sale-only purchase, but on sale, I've found there to be great value.


I'll have to look into it, fit has been a pretty big issue for my feet so I'm a lot more hesitant these days with experimenting with orthotics.

If there is a brand that has built in arch support for moccasin type shoes, that'd be great. I wonder if that's even possible with the construction though.

J. Crew does seem like a sale only purchase, but I am trying to buy more full priced items rather than only shopping on sale due to all tailoring dying down. *

*has mostly bought second hand in the past 6 months.


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## Fading Fast




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## Fading Fast




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## Fading Fast




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## Fading Fast




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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 50578


Nice rig, but he doesn't appear to be wearing his trousers properly? LOL.  The jacket and the cardigan are the syars of this show.


----------



## OldMetairie

If you haven't yet seen it be sure to check out the The Gentlemen the best movie about tweed since The Quiet Man...ok maybe not strictly about tweed but kudos to the costume designers. Of course what good would a post be without pics


----------



## Fading Fast

OldMetairie said:


> If you haven't yet seen it be sure to check out the The Gentlemen the best movie about tweed since The Quiet Man...ok maybe not strictly about tweed but kudos to the costume designers. Of course what good would a post be without pics
> View attachment 50589
> View attachment 50590
> View attachment 50591


Agree completely - outstanding movie, outstanding wardrobes

 #4,342 

 #313 

 #402


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## 215339

OldMetairie said:


> If you haven't yet seen it be sure to check out the The Gentlemen the best movie about tweed since The Quiet Man...ok maybe not strictly about tweed but kudos to the costume designers. Of course what good would a post be without pics
> View attachment 50589
> View attachment 50590
> View attachment 50591





Fading Fast said:


> Agree completely - outstanding movie, outstanding wardrobes
> 
> #4,342
> 
> #313
> 
> #402


Thanks for the heads up guys, I added this to the Netflix list to watch.

I watched Godfather for the first time last winter, and it started the itch for wanting a longer overcoat. One thing I noticed when Michael was still part of his 'previous' life and more 'innocent', he was wearing a corduroy jacket.

A funny, well done gangster movie with great style sounds right up my alley.


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## Fading Fast




----------



## FiscalDean

I'm guessing those white pants are doe skin flannels and the coat is a 3/2 sack. Very sharp!


----------



## Fading Fast

FiscalDean said:


> I'm guessing those white pants are doe skin flannels and the coat is a 3/2 sack. Very sharp!


I was wondering about the pants and like your thought. It fits the Ivy style.


----------



## Troones

FiscalDean said:


> I'm guessing those white pants are doe skin flannels and the coat is a 3/2 sack. Very sharp!


Agree, its superb. I have a near identical 3/2 roll sack jacket from J Press, featured in this very thread once or twice, and pairing with light cream pants was my favorite way to wear it. White works even better I see.


----------



## Troones

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 50578


Excellent. This is similar to a Magee jacket I have been eyeing recently. Unfortunately, I've hit my quota for new jackets for a good while, so I'll just live vicariously through this thread.


----------



## Fading Fast

FiscalDean said:


> I'm guessing those white pants are doe skin flannels and the coat is a 3/2 sack. Very sharp!





Troones said:


> Agree, its superb. I have a near identical 3/2 roll sack jacket from J Press, featured in this very thread once or twice, and pairing with light cream pants was my favorite way to wear it. White works even better I see.


While it's very '50s Ivy, it's also very Apparel Arts/Esquire '30s as that's when you see a lot of patterned tweed sport coats paired with cream or white flannels.

I love "winter" white. I have several "winter" white sweaters, but have never bought any flannels in that color. If we still lived in a dress-up era, I'd be searching for a pair now.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 50637


A memorably handsome rig, weaponized with an accessory that has been determined to be "mightier than the sword"...the fountain pen held in his right hand!


----------



## Oldsarge

The popped collar is ridiculous but the elements are exceptional.


----------



## Fading Fast




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## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 50663
> 
> 
> The popped collar is ridiculous but the elements are exceptional.


You sir, are spot-on with your assessment. When I see a rig like the one you pictured above, I immediately return to yearning to move back up North! Heavy sigh!


----------



## Oldsarge

Another fashion pup


----------



## Oldsarge




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## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> Another fashion pup
> 
> View attachment 50696


You should cross post this on the "What Are You Wearing Today" thread. An adorably handsome young pup!


----------



## Oldsarge




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## Fading Fast




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## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 50796


A decidedly handsome tweed, those wonderful raglan shoulders.....that is a great coat and I want it now, even though, living in central Florida and wearing it, I would, as did the wicked witch in the Wizard of OZ, be crying out...I'm melting, I'm melting! LOL. Seriously though, that is a classic coat.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> A decidedly handsome tweed, those wonderful raglan shoulders.....that is a great coat and I want it now, even though, living in central Florida and wearing it, I would, as did the wicked witch in the Wizard of OZ, be crying out...I'm melting, I'm melting! LOL. Seriously though, that is a classic coat.


I agree. The raglan sleeves and beautiful grey herringbone are perfect to my eye.


----------



## Flairball

Tweed season. My favorite time of the year.


----------



## Fading Fast

Cross post with the Ralph thread. 








@eagle2250, Note what is almost certainly a lapel-to-breast-pocket chain to a pocket watch. They do seem to pop up from time to time now that you and I have chatted about them.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Cross post with the Ralph thread.
> View attachment 50850
> 
> @eagle2250, Note what is almost certainly a lapel-to-breast-pocket chain to a pocket watch. They do seem to pop up from time to time now that you and I have chatted about them.


Indeed we have the watch chain, a nice touch for sure. I rather like the jacket, but am struggling mightily to decide if that tie works with that jacket! What do you think?


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Indeed we have the watch chain, a nice touch for sure. I rather like the jacket, but am struggling mightily to decide if that tie works with that jacket! What do you think?


Very funny as I had the same thought. On paper, it doesn't work at all, but if I'm honest with myself, I don't think it looks bad. I probably wouldn't do that combo, but against the odds, it looks okay.


----------



## London380sl

It works but it looks a little to busy to me. I would have gone with a solid wool tie.


----------



## Oldsarge

For some reason I like it just the way it is. I think the alternation of diagonal vs horizontal plaids is rather neat.


----------



## some_dude

I just bought a Harris tweed sportcoat and contrasting vest. I figure I will probably be asked to sit out doors for lunch meetings on non-rainy days this winter, and this will be a way to keep warm and still look good.


----------



## Fading Fast

The Harris Tweed "Orb" buttons are neat:


----------



## Fading Fast




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## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

some_dude said:


> I just bought a Harris tweed sportcoat and contrasting vest. I figure I will probably be asked to sit out doors for lunch meetings on non-rainy days this winter, and this will be a way to keep warm and still look good.


Just the thing to wear to Piggins.


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## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 50973


I really like that tie with that jacket.


----------



## some_dude

Oldsarge said:


> Just the thing to wear to Piggins.


Exactly!


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## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 51070


A substantial jacket, for sure. Handsome in a very hardy, masculine way. The angled and flapped left breast pocket is a design feature that I cannot recall seeing i the past. I'm going to have to get used to it, before being able to say I like it! :icon_scratch:


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Feels very classic-Hollywood style to me. Immediately made me think of William Powell as he wore a similar jacket in "The Thin Man Goes Home" movie:
















Article on the jacket from the movie here: https://bamfstyle.com/2014/07/29/thin-man-goes-home-check/


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## Fading Fast

I'd like them more with a less-obvious label.


----------



## ItalianStyle

^ Judging by the stitching, I'm guessing the label is meant to be removed after purchase?


----------



## Fading Fast

ItalianStyle said:


> ^ Judging by the stitching, I'm guessing the label is meant to be removed after purchase?


Good point, obvious now that you pointed it out.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## never behind

Bought my first pair of tweed trousers off eBay. Nice Hertling-made green just in time for the cool down.


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## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 51135


Consider this to be a 'go on the coat' and a resounding 'no on the bow'!


----------



## Oldsarge

eagle2250 said:


> Consider this to be a 'go on the coat' and a resounding 'no on the bow'!


I kind of like bows but not that one. A tad twee for my taste.


----------



## Fading Fast




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## Oldsarge

The pattern is nice but wearing both a jacket and vest is a bit over the top. And forget a pair of trousers!


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 51204


The jacket is superb, but I would be inclined to unbutton it when seated. I don't think I would have my coffee positioned that close to my artwork in progress! LOL.


----------



## Fading Fast

Possible dupe pic, beautiful jacket.









And a bonus distaff Tweed.


----------



## Troones

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 51204


I like the watch almost as much as the jacket. Mmphh, I have an olive herringbone just like it that's too big for me now. Weight loss is good but comes with some drawbacks.


----------



## David J. Cooper

some_dude said:


> Exactly!


Is that the guy from the Heathman?


----------



## some_dude

David J. Cooper said:


> Is that the guy from the Heathman?


The Heathman has had lots of well-known Chefs over the years. I believe Greg Higgins was the Chef there, long ago-- probably before 2000. He has Higgins restaurant just up Broadway, and also the Piggins food cart in front of the Historical Society.

Philippe Boulot was there for a number of years, and personally was (and is) my favorite. He is at the MAC now. The entire food service operation there went from pretty bad to very good, and I give him all the credit.

Vitaly Paley was the most recent, although honestly I don't know how much actual cooking he ever did there. He had a number of restaurants, and with the pandemic, is back to just his place on NW 23rd now.

At the moment, I don't think there is any restaurant in the Heathman, sadly, although I would hope once things come back to normal, they will get someone decent in there. Paley did a big remodel which, in my opinion, really made the place much less pleasant, with hard surfaces everywhere.


----------



## David J. Cooper

Some Dude. Thanks for that. I had a strong desire to eat at the Heathman when Higgins was there but never made it. The one time we were in Portland during that time we had an excellent meal at Pazzo? I think that was the name of the place. It was in the Vintage Hotel. The next day we picked up picnic supplies from a place called Ron Paul’s.

We plan to go to Portland for a week once the borders reopen.


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## Oldsarge

When you get here, by all means eat at Higgins. And should you arrive in the early spring, order the duck with the rhubarb confit. It's described by the wait staff as the best thing on the menu and I fully concur. He serves a different confit depending on the season but the rhubarb is the best!

I wondered if Boulet had transferred to the MAC. Bourdain mentioned the Bacon 'n' Bleu salad at the Heathman and when my girlfriend (who is a MAC member) invited me to dinner there, I saw it on the menu. Gentleman, it is the best, most decadent salad ever concocted.


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## Fading Fast




----------



## never behind

Cold and windy. Good day for a tweed jacket.


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## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> Possible dupe pic, beautiful jacket.
> View attachment 51209
> 
> 
> And a bonus distaff Tweed.
> View attachment 51208


Fading do you know the maker or vendor offering the tweed in the first pic.
I have a similar from Bucktrout sans buttons at the flap pockets in a darker brown tweed.

I'm also awaiting one from the U.K. that seems to be lost in Royal mail/customs for 5 weeks now. 
A lovat and brown tweed.

I don't need it, I just want it


----------



## Fading Fast

EclecticSr. said:


> Fading do you know the maker or vendor offering the tweed in the first pic.
> I have a similar from Bucktrout sans buttons at the flap pockets in a darker brown tweed.
> 
> I'm also awaiting one from the U.K. that seems to be lost in Royal mail/customs for 5 weeks now.
> A lovat and brown tweed.
> 
> I don't need it, I just want it


I'm sorry, I don't. I just tried Google image search, but it just sent me back to Pinterest, which is where I found it. Unfortunately, on Pinterest, there are no details - manufacturer, store, etc. - noted.

The one you have coming sounds great - would love to see a pic when you get it.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> I'm sorry, I don't. I just tried Google image search, but it just sent me back to Pinterest, which is where I found it. Unfortunately, on Pinterest, there are no details - manufacturer, store, etc. - noted.
> 
> The one you have coming sounds great - would love to see a pic when you get it.


Hope this comes through
*M Tweed Patch Pocket Jacket*
PRODUCT CODE: TR40585 Lovat brown.

House of


----------



## Fading Fast

EclecticSr. said:


> Hope this comes through
> *M Tweed Patch Pocket Jacket*
> PRODUCT CODE: TR40585 Lovat brown.
> 
> House of


Outstanding. Beautiful looking jacket. Also, even accounting for the currency conversion, it looks like very good value. Enjoy.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> I'm sorry, I don't. I just tried Google image search, but it just sent me back to Pinterest, which is where I found it. Unfortunately, on Pinterest, there are no details - manufacturer, store, etc. - noted.
> 
> The one you have coming sounds great - would love to see a pic when you get it.


That's the problem with Pinterest, frustrating. You see something you like but no lead as to where to get it most times.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> Outstanding. Beautiful looking jacket. Also, even accounting for the currency conversion, it looks like very good value. Enjoy.


I have purchased several items from them over the years and always found the merchandise to be of good quality. Jackets , trousers, shirts etc. and of good value.

keeping my fingers crossed that I will eventually receive my parcel. They are good people to deal with and I'm sure my problem will be resolved. No doubt covid plays large part in this.


----------



## some_dude

Philippe is very active there, as well. I see him around in his chef's whites all the time. He is by no means a figurehead. And I think he is a phenomenal cook.



Oldsarge said:


> wondered if Boulet had transferred to the MAC. Bourdain mentioned the Bacon 'n' Bleu salad at the Heathman and when my girlfriend (who is a MAC member) invited me to dinner there, I saw it on the menu. Gentleman, it is the best, most decadent salad ever concocted.


----------



## some_dude

David J. Cooper said:


> Some Dude. Thanks for that. I had a strong desire to eat at the Heathman when Higgins was there but never made it. The one time we were in Portland during that time we had an excellent meal at Pazzo? I think that was the name of the place. It was in the Vintage Hotel. The next day we picked up picnic supplies from a place called Ron Paul's.
> 
> We plan to go to Portland for a week once the borders reopen.


My last non-Tweed post!

Pazzo's is long gone, it was replaced by a similar italian place, which I think is also gone due to the pandemic. Pazzo's used to have a little casual dining/bakery next door called "Pazzoria" which was one of my favorite lunch spots. Oh well...

Ron Paul, sadly, passed away a few years ago. He was a great guy and is much missed. He spent the last few years of his life trying to create a public market, much like what you have in Vancouver, and that effort continues and hopefully will come to fruition in the next decade.


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## Fading Fast




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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 51261


An iconic Tweed that has stirred our sartorial passions for more than a century...it appears the style is a keeper!


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## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> An iconic Tweed that has stirred our sartorial passions for more than a century...it appears the style is a keeper!


Proving your point, this is a Pendleton coat (I've posted these pics before) that I purchased only a couple of years ago.

It's a bold grey herringbone (the camera is so-so and the mirror is from 1928, so it doesn't pick up the pattern well, but it's very similar to the one in the other picture only a touch darker), with a four not three-button front, set in sleeves, big patch pockets and swelled edges.


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## DCR

Vintage Brooks


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## Fading Fast




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## Troones

EclecticSr. said:


> I have purchased several items from them over the years and always found the merchandise to be of good quality. Jackets , trousers, shirts etc. and of good value.
> 
> keeping my fingers crossed that I will eventually receive my parcel. They are good people to deal with and I'm sure my problem will be resolved. No doubt covid plays large part in this.


Hope you don't mind my interjection, but I can confirm that the hard lockdowns going on in the UK are indeed having a big impact on e-commerce and postal service. I had purchased a nice tweed from another retailer over there and learned many weeks later that my item was no longer available. I'm still trying to get a refund.

Regarding the jacket, they have similar ones at Orvis, though missing some of the finer details. I've been considering one for a while now.


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## 215339

Will get better pictures eventually. My current phone camera is really bad and this cloth deserves better.










If you asked a 5 year old me what I wanted to be when I was older, a giant sentient sack of glen plaid tweed is not what I'd expect, nor what I'd know what that meant.

Seriously though, I love this coat. I'm going to refer to it as a cloak though, because that's what it feels like. A big warm hug. What I hated about Balmacaan's before is now what I love. Potato sack, slouchy, rounded, etc. It's interesting because in tailoring terms, this coat is "too big", but I like how it looks on me.

I think it looks good worn open, closed, closed while belted, closed with belt hanging loose etc. It did end up being a very full cut vs. something remotely slim, but I've no regrets.

The silhouette shifts quite a bit while belted, and sometimes not for the better, depending on where the pleats are gathered. Can end up looking like a clean silhouette in the front with nice pleats in the back, or a pleated front with a flared skirt and hourglass shape.

I got to have my cake and eat it too -- bold AND versatile!


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## Oldsarge




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## Fading Fast




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## EclecticSr.

Troones said:


> Hope you don't mind my interjection, but I can confirm that the hard lockdowns going on in the UK are indeed having a big impact on e-commerce and postal service. I had purchased a nice tweed from another retailer over there and learned many weeks later that my item was no longer available. I'm still trying to get a refund.
> 
> Regarding the jacket, they have similar ones at Orvis, though missing some of the finer details. I've been considering one for a while now.


Don't mind at all, I already have a couple of Orvis jackets. I'll wait another week at which point I will contact them and if they are agreeable I will offer to purchase a second in a different color providing they offer a discount and ship Fedex or UPS rather than Royal mail. I've received parcels overnight UPS
and recently within a week from Parcel Force. If I eventually I receive the the first nothing lost, if not they will have to give me a refund I'll make that understood upfront.


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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 51335


A rather unusual use of tweed, for sure. However, it does have a certain appeal to it!


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## Oldsarge




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## Fading Fast




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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 51360


Perfect...absolutely perfect. Now where can I buy that Keepers Jacket?


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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge

eagle2250 said:


> Perfect...absolutely perfect. Now where can I buy that Keepers Jacket?


I had Hemrajani make me one minus the belt. I'm really looking forward to being able to wear it somewhere--anywhere!


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## Fading Fast




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## Oldsarge




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## fiftyforfifty

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 51405


Very smart and fresh look. I like the overall combination.


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## Fading Fast




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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 51418


The Tweed jacket and the waistcoat are splendid, but that darkly patterned flannel shirt just has to go. Perhaps a shirt hued similarly to that of the ascot would be the best option?


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## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 51418


I'm having a hard time reconciling the DB vest with the trousers and coat. I agree with Eagle on the shirt, too. A bunch of good bits inappropriately assembled.


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## Fading Fast




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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 51439


The jacket is stunning; buttoning the belt and not the jacket is one of the first symptoms of the onset of idiocy; but I do like the combination of the harvest tan tweed and the grey flannel!


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## some_dude

Is the jacket too small? Why on earth would you wear it with the belt buttoned and the jacket open?



Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 51439


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## Fading Fast

I could see @upr_crust purchasing this as a sport coat (probably from Phineas Cole) and staring it in an incredible outfit.


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## DCR

cross posted from WAYWT in Trad forum


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## Fading Fast




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## Fading Fast

Maybe Tweed, but still feels kinda appropriate to this thread.


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## Flairball

Cross posted from Trad. When it's tweed season, I wear tweed. Highland tweed shop SC. It's one of my favorites


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## Fading Fast

John Wayne in "The Quiet Man."


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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 51558
> 
> John Wayne in "The Quiet Man."


Love the Tweed...and the movie wasn't bad either. Perhaps it's time to watch it again?


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## Fading Fast




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## Fading Fast




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## Fading Fast




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## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 51625


A tweed for the field.


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## Fading Fast




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## Flairball

Cross posted. Today's tweed. BT Yorkshire tweed.


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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge




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## Fading Fast




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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 51694


The coat is too small for the young man pictured. He looks like five pounds stuffed in a three pound sack! Nice jacket,though.


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## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> The coat is too small for the young man pictured. He looks like five pounds stuffed in a three pound sack! Nice jacket,though.


It's crazy but that is the norm today. Four out of five young men on TV or in movies (or on the streets of NYC) wear suits or jackets simply too tight. I'm not the old guy on the lawn yelling at the kids as I'm fine with a modern slim cut (it can look very '60s slim if done right), but there is a line between slim and too tight and most of the ones today are too tight.

I don't get it as the material pulls and wrinkles funny even when the man is standing still and it only gets worse when he moves, but for some reason, that is the look. Once in awhile, you'll see a TV or movie character wearing a well-tailored slim cut suit or sport coat and it's stunning how much better it looks. I get that this is opinion, but my opinion is that clothes that bunch, pull and wrinkle upon almost any movement (and, sometimes, even when not moving) - clothes that have no clean drape or flow - do not look good.


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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge

Color is good!


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## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 51736
> 
> 
> Color is good!


Really like the jacket, sweater and tie individually and together in the outfit, but the shirt seems off to me. It looks as if a summer-colors shirt somehow snuck its way into a winter outfit.


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## Fading Fast




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## Oldsarge

Irish Volunteers c. 1916.


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## Fading Fast




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## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 51768
> 
> 
> Irish Volunteers c. 1916.


His leather needs some attention, but the jacket is absolutely incredible. Are those harps that we are looking at on the buttons?


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## Oldsarge

eagle2250 said:


> His leather needs some attention, but the jacket is absolutely incredible. Are those harps that we are looking at on the buttons?


I'm pretty sure they are. It was an Irish regiment, after all.


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## DCR

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 51739





Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 51775


These are both outstanding. Any idea where the fair isle and this jacket are from?


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## Fading Fast

DCR said:


> These are both outstanding. Any idea where the fair isle and this jacket are from?


I believe it's Ben Silver - looks like its style of clothes and modeling. No idea if it is from a current catalogue or not.

I love the "bomber" style jacket with the buttons too - I don't know if I'd use it much if I owned it, but I really like it.


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## Fading Fast

DCR said:


> These are both outstanding. Any idea where the fair isle and this jacket are from?


Just went to the Ben Silver site. The pic was from its site, but my guess, a prior year. This year, it's showing these two Fair Isles:

https://www.bensilver.com/Lambswool...8327.html?b=d*6051&s=d&p=23&c=33#.X8k86i1h28U

https://www.bensilver.com/Lambswool-Fair-Isle-Sweater-Vest-in-Wheat,36617.html?l=us#.X8k9JC1h28U


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## DCR

Fading Fast said:


> Just went to the Ben Silver site. The pic was from its site, but my guess, a prior year. This year, it's showing these two Fair Isles:
> 
> https://www.bensilver.com/Lambswool...8327.html?b=d*6051&s=d&p=23&c=33#.X8k86i1h28U
> 
> https://www.bensilver.com/Lambswool-Fair-Isle-Sweater-Vest-in-Wheat,36617.html?l=us#.X8k9JC1h28U


Figures, it was last years.. I actually have the current catalogue on my desk right now. For once, they have a garment that's reasonably priced. Thanks though


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## Fading Fast




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## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 51799


Oh, welcome winter's chills and wools!


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## Fading Fast




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## Fading Fast

A very pretty blue.


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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 51888
> 
> A very pretty blue.


A strikingly handsome fabric, but from the picture, it appears to be just a bit too buttoned up. Wish we could see a more distanced photo of the garment.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 51888
> 
> A very pretty blue.


Fading, could that be the denim blue version of the Jacket I finally received. Mine in lovat/ brown.
It finally arrived after 7 weeks. I'm quite pleased with it. Thought of that blue as well but out of stock in my size, perhaps a good thing.


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## Fading Fast

EclecticSr. said:


> Fading, could that be the denim blue version of the Jacket I finally received. Mine in lovat/ brown.
> It finally arrived after 7 weeks. I'm quite pleased with it. Thought of that blue as well but out of stock in my size, perhaps a good thing.


 I simply don't know as I don't remember where I sourced that pic from. But you hit on the key thing: you love what you got, that's all that matters. Who knows, five or ten years from now, you might buy something else in that blue or, by that time, you might not care about the blue at all. It can happen. Enjoy your wonderful jacket now, that's the most fun thing to do.


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## FiscalDean

I've started watching the first episodes of "Bewitched". Mr. Stevens had some decent tweed going on in addition to some decent collar roll.

.


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## Fading Fast




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## Fading Fast




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## Fading Fast




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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 51968


Is that vest standing for sale in a retail store or in a resale shop? It appears there may be moth damage at the waist on the right side of the vest. Otherwise, I do rather like the vest.


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## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Is that vest standing for sale in a retail store or in a resale shop? It appears there may be moth damage at the waist on the right side of the vest. Otherwise, I do rather like the vest.


Based on the things you noted, I'd guess resale shop.


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## Oldsarge

It needs a skilled repair.


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## Fading Fast

Away from the odd accouterments, the Tweed material itself looks very nice.


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## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> Away from the odd accouterments, the Tweed material itself looks very nice.
> View attachment 52046


I kind of like the pocket square and the boutonnière but that tie? My eyes, my eyes!


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## DCR

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 51934


This is all kinds of good. Especially love the shirt. Any idea of it's provenance?


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## Fading Fast

DCR said:


> This is all kinds of good. Especially love the shirt. Any idea of it's provenance?


The caption on Pinterest said: "Stafford Harris Tweed jacket, Brooks Brothers OCBD and silk pocket square, Lochcarron wool tie (Scotland)," but I don't even a see a pocket square.


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## DCR

Fading Fast said:


> The caption on Pinterest said: "Stafford Harris Tweed jacket, Brooks Brothers OCBD and silk pocket square, Lochcarron wool tie (Scotland)," but I don't even a see a pocket square.


If that's at all accurate, then it's remarkable. I had some older Stafford sport coats but nothing like that, and I would kill for a BB OCBD in a tattersall pattern in that colorway. I can't ever remember seeing one.


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## Fading Fast

DCR said:


> If that's at all accurate, then it's remarkable. I had some older Stafford sport coats but nothing like that, and I would kill for a BB OCBD in a tattersall pattern in that colorway. I can't ever remember seeing one.


As your comment implies, I'd be suspicious as, I've found, Pinterest is quite often not accurate.


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## DCR

I actually just found one that's somewhat similar
Brooks Brothers 346 Men Lg LS Button Down Beige/Gray Tattersall Non Iron W1 | eBay


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## Fading Fast




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## Fading Fast




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## Fading Fast




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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 52156


Impressive tweed, nice vest, the Chambray shirt is even a go, but why damage the positive effect by rolling the sleeve cuffs on the shirt and why-oh-why did he have to pop that jacket collar?


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## Oldsarge




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## Fading Fast




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## Troones

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 52179


I'm waiting for a season end sale at J.Press to pick up a very similar jacket they have in this year's line up. A classic pattern that I still don't have.


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## Fading Fast

Troones said:


> I'm waiting for a season end sale at J.Press to pick up a very similar jacket they have in this year's line up. A classic pattern that I still don't have.


It's a beautiful pattern and, as you note, a classic. You don't see it as much today, but very common even into the '80s.


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## Troones

Fading Fast said:


> It's a beautiful pattern and, as you note, a classic. You don't see it as much today, but very common even into the '80s.


Here it is. I splurged a bit this year so I need to wait for the sale to justify the purchase. Can't wait!


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## Fading Fast

Troones said:


> Here it is. I splurged a bit this year so I need to wait for the sale to justify the purchase. Can't wait!
> View attachment 52189


It's a beautiful classic- I'm excited for you. And I like it in the pic with, what I think is, a pale pink Press Shaggy Dog.


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## Fading Fast




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## Oldsarge




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## Fading Fast




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## Oldsarge

Man, I'd wear that in a heartbeat!


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## ran23

Me also, no where to wear it these days.


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## Fading Fast

I don't think the turtleneck and jacket colors pair particularly well, but it is a cool blue herringbone Tweed.


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## never behind

Cross post from Trad WAYWT thread. Tweed day!


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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 52311
> 
> I don't think the turtleneck and jacket colors pair particularly well, but it is a cool blue herringbone Tweed.


I agree completely with your conclusions, but tell me, what would you think of pairing a white or cream hued turtle neck with that jacket. I think even a crimson turtle neck would work rather well.


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## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> I agree completely with your conclusions, but tell me, what would you think of pairing a white or cream hued turtle neck with that jacket. I think even a crimson turtle neck would work rather well.


I think cream or crimson would work, but as always, the hue of the colors would matter a lot as that jacket has a strong "blue" and "bright" color to it. Crimson could be very striking. A silver grey might also look very sharp with the jacket.


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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge




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## 215339

Crosspost from styleforum.

I'm 85% satisfied. I feel like an Apparel Arts drawing. Left/right balance wasn't accounted for. I asked my tailor about it before making the coat and he said it should be fine due to raglan shoulder, but clearly that was a hustle.

I had no idea the back looked so dramatic with a belt until now. Very exaggerated silhouette and I kind of love it. Interestingly the back emphasizes my shoulders despite the construction, and the belt emphasizes the waist. The side view really shows the heft of this cloth in the sleeves and how it drapes.

Due to how full it is, it doesn't actually look good worn open like other Bals. May shorten the sleeves, but I do like the warmth of too long sleeves. Then again, that's what hand warmer pockets and gloves are for.



Spoiler: Unbelted































Spoiler: Belted































Spoiler: Belted & Collar Flipped
























Spoiler: Worn Open


----------



## never behind

delicious_scent said:


> Crosspost from styleforum.
> 
> I'm 85% satisfied. I feel like an Apparel Arts drawing. Left/right balance wasn't accounted for. I asked my tailor about it before making the coat and he said it should be fine due to raglan shoulder, but clearly that was a hustle.
> 
> I had no idea the back looked so dramatic with a belt until now. Very exaggerated silhouette and I kind of love it. Interestingly the back emphasizes my shoulders despite the construction, and the belt emphasizes the waist. The side view really shows the heft of this cloth in the sleeves and how it drapes.
> 
> Due to how full it is, it doesn't actually look good worn open like other Bals. May shorten the sleeves, but I do like the warmth of too long sleeves. Then again, that's what hand warmer pockets and gloves are for.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Unbelted
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That is a fine looking coat. You can feel the heft through the pictures. The belt really gives it a pop. Here's to many years of enjoyment.


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## 215339

never behind said:


> That is a fine looking coat. You can feel the heft through the pictures. The belt really gives it a pop. Here's to many years of enjoyment.


Thanks man, I appreciate it. The good news is the coat is oversized, so no matter how much my weight changes over the years, I can still wear it.

Realistically won't get much wear the next 3-4 months, but here's to hoping for better days in the future!


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## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> Crosspost from styleforum.
> 
> I'm 85% satisfied. I feel like an Apparel Arts drawing. Left/right balance wasn't accounted for. I asked my tailor about it before making the coat and he said it should be fine due to raglan shoulder, but clearly that was a hustle.
> 
> I had no idea the back looked so dramatic with a belt until now. Very exaggerated silhouette and I kind of love it. Interestingly the back emphasizes my shoulders despite the construction, and the belt emphasizes the waist. The side view really shows the heft of this cloth in the sleeves and how it drapes.
> 
> Due to how full it is, it doesn't actually look good worn open like other Bals. May shorten the sleeves, but I do like the warmth of too long sleeves. Then again, that's what hand warmer pockets and gloves are for.
> 
> 
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It's a beautiful coat, enjoy and wear it in good health.

As you note, definitely has a '30s Apparel Arts vibe and its heft is fantastic.

I wonder if the "left/right" balance couldn't still be addressed with some minor padding - just a thought.

I agree with your instinct to shorten the sleeves. While overcoat sleeves should be long, those look just a touch too long to my eye.

I see what you are saying about how it looks when opened, but that is how those coats are suppose to look. As a fan of old movies, I can say that big raglan-sleeved overcoats like yours always look bigger when worn opened. We are just not familiar with the look today as so few men wear those types of coats anymore.

Here's Robert Mitchum in one from the 1949 movie "Holiday Affair:"


----------



## Fading Fast

And for today's post, since we were just talking about Robert Mitchum, here's a pic of him, a big man wearing a big Tweed suit:


----------



## Oldsarge

delicious_scent said:


> Thanks man, I appreciate it. The good news is the coat is oversized, so no matter how much my weight changes over the years, I can still wear it.
> 
> Realistically won't get much wear the next 3-4 months, but here's to hoping for better days in the future!


But when you do, you'll be WARM. And I agree with shortening the sleeves.


----------



## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> It's a beautiful coat, enjoy and wear it in good health.
> 
> As you note, definitely has a '30s Apparel Arts vibe and its heft is fantastic.
> 
> I wonder if the "left/right" balance couldn't still be addressed with some minor padding - just a thought.
> 
> I agree with your instinct to shorten the sleeves. While overcoat sleeves should be long, those look just a touch too long to my eye.
> 
> I see what you are saying about how it looks when opened, but that is how those coats are suppose to look. As a fan of old movies, I can say that big raglan-sleeved overcoats like yours always look bigger when worn opened. We are just not familiar with the look today as so few men wear those types of coats anymore.
> 
> Here's Robert Mitchum in one from the 1949 movie "Holiday Affair:"
> View attachment 52350
> 
> 
> View attachment 52351


Thank you, I definitely will once this pandemic business starts to fade and I can actually leave the house more.

Padding may change the silhouette of the coat and create lumps no? My tailor initially wanted to add canvassing or padding, then he actually felt the 4m roll of fabric I handed him and didn't find it necessary.

I've heard of people who added padding to their sports coats to even out dropped shoulders and they seemed to find it uncomfortable.

Yeah I'll play around with wearing gloves and see how they work in tandem with the sleeves. My other coat has sleeves that are too short and I'm not a fan.

I'm glad you posted those pictures, as I wasn't aware how the coats looked on actual people vs. drawings in the '30s and '40s.

Bruce Boyer pulls it off nicely too










I'll have to experiment when wearing it open, as I currently feel a bit ridiculous when doing that. As you said, this look definitely isn't common so it may just require some getting used to.

It demands some hefty knitwear be worn underneath too though if wearing it open, or visually it looks off.

I also do wish longer and wider scarves were more common.


----------



## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 52311
> 
> I don't think the turtleneck and jacket colors pair particularly well, but it is a cool blue herringbone Tweed.


I think we had a discussion about blue tweeds before, but this is definitely one of those tweeds that just don't work well in an actual wardrobe when pairing with colours, despite looking great.


----------



## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> I think we had a discussion about blue tweeds before, but this is definitely one of those tweeds that just don't work well in an actual wardrobe when pairing with colours, despite looking great.


I agree. You only buy that sport coat as a "special" item that you know will require careful pairing and will probably get a lot less wear than your workhorses. I shy away from those items as I find I all but forget about them in my closet.



delicious_scent said:


> ...
> Padding may change the silhouette of the coat and create lumps no? My tailor initially wanted to add canvassing or padding, then he actually felt the 4m roll of fabric I handed him and didn't find it necessary.
> 
> I've heard of people who added padding to their sports coats to even out dropped shoulders and they seemed to find it uncomfortable.
> ...


I think this padding question calls for the @Matt S Bat Signal as we could use Matt's expertise here:











delicious_scent said:


> ...
> I'll have to experiment when wearing it open, as I currently feel a bit ridiculous when doing that. As you said, this look definitely isn't common so it may just require some getting used to.
> 
> It demands some hefty knitwear be worn underneath too though if wearing it open, or visually it looks off.
> 
> I also do wish longer and wider scarves were more common.


I think over time, you'll get comfortable with wearing it open as, IMO, it's a good look and makes the coat more fun to wear as there are times open is the right balance temperature wise and/or casual-look wise.

And I agree completely, you need hefty knitwear to hold its own with that coat.


----------



## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> I agree. You only buy that sport coat as a "special" item that you know will require careful pairing and will probably get a lot less wear than your workhorses. I shy away from those items as I find I all but forget about them in my closet.
> 
> I think this padding question calls for the @Matt S Bat Signal as we could use Matt's expertise here:
> View attachment 52357
> 
> 
> I think over time, you'll get comfortable with wearing it open as, IMO, it's a good look and makes the coat more fun to wear as there are times open is the right balance temperature wise and/or casual-look wise.
> 
> And I agree completely, you need hefty knitwear to hold its own with that coat.


To think I was considering a similiar darker blue tweed for this coat, I'm glad AAAC and SF both steered me away from it.

Yeah for sure, being able to wear the coat open is one advantage SB coats have over DB.

Another good photo I found of a more contemporary Bal being worn open. Kaptain Sunshine's Traveler's Coat. Normally I dislike ticket pockets, but on a coat that is more "anti-fit" I like the assymetrical detail.


----------



## Matt S

Fading Fast said:


> I agree. You only buy that sport coat as a "special" item that you know will require careful pairing and will probably get a lot less wear than your workhorses. I shy away from those items as I find I all but forget about them in my closet.
> 
> I think this padding question calls for the @Matt S Bat Signal as we could use Matt's expertise here:
> View attachment 52357
> 
> 
> I think over time, you'll get comfortable with wearing it open as, IMO, it's a good look and makes the coat more fun to wear as there are times open is the right balance temperature wise and/or casual-look wise.
> 
> And I agree completely, you need hefty knitwear to hold its own with that coat.


To answer the question directed toward me, I understand that it can be a good idea to add padding to even out a lower shoulders to help a jacket sit more evenly. A jacket is cut to fit a specific shoulder slope. Padding can be added to a man with shoulders that slope more than the jackets to help the jacket have its intended shape. You can't add more padding to give a jacket stronger shoulders if it wasn't cut for that.

As for blue tweed, I have a blue Donegal tweed jacket that I love. It's great with grey flannels and fawn cavalry twill trousers. It's quite versatile. My jacket isn't such a good one, but I hope to get a better one some day because of how useful I find it to be.


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## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

Matt S said:


> To answer the question directed toward me, I understand that it can be a good idea to add padding to even out a lower shoulders to help a jacket sit more evenly. A jacket is cut to fit a specific shoulder slope. Padding can be added to a man with shoulders that slope more than the jackets to help the jacket have its intended shape. You can't add more padding to give a jacket stronger shoulders if it wasn't cut for that.
> 
> As for blue tweed, I have a blue Donegal tweed jacket that I love. It's great with grey flannels and fawn cavalry twill trousers. It's quite versatile. My jacket isn't such a good one, but I hope to get a better one some day because of how useful I find it to be.


Matt, thank you for, as you always are, being willing to jump in with an experienced and thoughtful answer re shoulder padding.

Regarding the blue Tweed, I too, have a blue tweed - it's a blue-grey "muted" colored one - that goes with almost everything. The challenge I see with the blue Tweed a page back is that it has an almost bright or electric blue look to it which makes it harder to pair. IMO, it's not really about it being blue, but the tone or hue (I'm out over my skis terminology wise here) is too bright or loud or something to make it a "go-with-everything" jacket. I like the jacket and think the color is pretty, but I just know, at least in my wardrobe, it would only go with a few things.


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## Fading Fast




----------



## 215339

Matt S said:


> To answer the question directed toward me, I understand that it can be a good idea to add padding to even out a lower shoulders to help a jacket sit more evenly. A jacket is cut to fit a specific shoulder slope. Padding can be added to a man with shoulders that slope more than the jackets to help the jacket have its intended shape. *You can't add more padding to give a jacket stronger shoulders if it wasn't cut for that.*
> 
> As for blue tweed, I have a blue Donegal tweed jacket that I love. It's great with grey flannels and fawn cavalry twill trousers. It's quite versatile. My jacket isn't such a good one, but I hope to get a better one some day because of how useful I find it to be.


If I understand correctly, padding is a no go due to the inherent structure of a raglan overcoat?


Fading Fast said:


> Matt, thank you for, as you always are, being willing to jump in with an experienced and thoughtful answer re shoulder padding.
> 
> Regarding the blue Tweed, I too, have a blue tweed - it's a blue-grey "muted" colored one - that goes with almost everything. The challenge I see with the blue Tweed a page back is that it has an almost bright or electric blue look to it which makes it harder to pair. IMO, it's not really about it being blue, but the tone or hue (I'm out over my skis terminology wise here) is too bright or loud or something to make it a "go-with-everything" jacket. I like the jacket and think the color is pretty, but I just know, at least in my wardrobe, it would only go with a few things.


Do you happen to have pictures?

Here is a blue-grey tweed jacket posted on TOF, and I think it ticks all the right boxes.

















Something like that would be perfect.


----------



## Matt S

delicious_scent said:


> If I understand correctly, padding is a no go due to the inherent structure of a raglan overcoat?
> 
> Do you happen to have pictures?
> 
> Here is a blue-grey tweed jacket posted on TOF, and I think it ticks all the right boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something like that would be perfect.


I haven't seen a Raglan coat with padding. It's a more casual coat. They are usually soft throughout so they can cinch easily with a belt.

The blue tweed is superb!


----------



## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> If I understand correctly, padding is a no go due to the inherent structure of a raglan overcoat?
> 
> Do you happen to have pictures?
> 
> Here is a blue-grey tweed jacket posted on TOF, and I think it ticks all the right boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something like that would be perfect.


I snapped these for you this morning. Unfortunately, my six-year-old iPhone's camera combined with the lighting didn't capture as much of the blue as there is in person.


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## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> I snapped these for you this morning. Unfortunately, my six-year-old iPhone's camera combined with the lighting didn't capture as much of the blue as there is in person.
> View attachment 52409
> View attachment 52411


A really nice Tweed, for sure!


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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 52412


Interesting lapel pin...is there a story behind it?


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## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Interesting lapel pin...is there a story behind it?


It's just a pic I grab from the web, so no idea, but it caught my eye too. I could see it being an internal thing/promotion at a shoe company - something it gave employees if they hit certain goals or something. I've gotten things like that over the years in my field, so I could see a company like Florsheim, in its day, doing it.


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## 215339

Matt S said:


> I haven't seen a Raglan coat with padding. It's a more casual coat. They are usually soft throughout so they can cinch easily with a belt.
> 
> The blue tweed is superb!


Okey doke, yeah we're on the same page then.

Agreed, I wish that colour was more common.


Fading Fast said:


> I snapped these for you this morning. Unfortunately, my six-year-old iPhone's camera combined with the lighting didn't capture as much of the blue as there is in person.
> View attachment 52409
> View attachment 52411


Thank you, yeah it reads as charcoal on my screen, looks good from what I can see though.

My phone camera is also not great, that's why it took me a while to get coat pictures of me wearing it.


----------



## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> Okey doke, yeah we're on the same page then.
> 
> Agreed, I wish that colour was more common.
> 
> Thank you, yeah it reads as charcoal on my screen, looks good from what I can see though.
> 
> My phone camera is also not great, that's why it took me a while to get coat pictures of me wearing it.


I agree, in the pics, it looks all gray, but it has a blue-gray look IRL. My first BB tweed sport coat, bought in the '80s and, the only way I could afford it then, on deep season-ending sale, was a blue grey one. At the time, I was disappointed as I really wanted a true gray one like Dustin Hoffman wore in "The Graduate," but I came to love the blue-gray so much that when I saw this one, a decade or so ago, I jumped on it.


----------



## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> Okey doke, yeah we're on the same page then.
> 
> Agreed, I wish that colour was more common.
> 
> Thank you, yeah it reads as charcoal on my screen, looks good from what I can see though.
> 
> My phone camera is also not great, that's why it took me a while to get coat pictures of me wearing it.


Also, getting back to our original point, the blue-grey tweed like mine or the one you showed is very easy to match and goes with most things; whereas, the "bright" blue one I posted a page or so back is very hard to match. It's funny how these "small" differences can have such an impact.


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## Oldsarge




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## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> I agree, in the pics, it looks all gray, but it has a blue-gray look IRL. My first BB tweed sport coat, bought in the '80s and, the only way I could afford it then, on deep season-ending sale, was a blue grey one. At the time, I was disappointed as I really wanted a true gray one like Dustin Hoffman wore in "The Graduate," but I came to love the blue-gray so much that when I saw this one, a decade or so ago, I jumped on it.


Hopefully when I finally graduate and get a job I'll be able to wear the quintessential grey tweed sports coats, though I suspect things like shawl cardigans would be more acceptable nowadays.

I had to google the Hoffman jacket, IIRC you've a nice collection of similiar ones from J. Crew?

I was thinking something like this for myself in a slight donegal.









I wish there was a nice summer counterpart to light grey tweed sports coats. All the ones I've seen just end looking drab and flat in comparison.


Fading Fast said:


> Also, getting back to our original point, the blue-grey tweed like mine or the one you showed is very easy to match and goes with most things; whereas, the "bright" blue one I posted a page or so back is very hard to match. It's funny how these "small" differences can have such an impact.


Yep, I agree. A lot of clothing looks great in a perfect photo shot too, but not necessarily when you buy and actually wear them.

That's one benefit I've noticed with OTR vs. custom/bespoke. You can see exactly how something will look and pair, or you can return it.

Swatches help of course for bespoke or MTM, but I've made poor decisions even based on those.

I found another coat that looks great, but likely wouldn't work in my wardrobe.










I also found an old thread the other day and found a post of yours mentioning you had a custom coat made by RL. Longer and closer cut. I'm always a sucker for pictures, do you happen to have any of that one?


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## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> Hopefully when I finally graduate and get a job I'll be able to wear the quintessential grey tweed sports coats, though I suspect things like shawl cardigans would be more acceptable nowadays.
> 
> I had to google the Hoffman jacket, IIRC you've a nice collection of similiar ones from J. Crew?
> 
> I was thinking something like this for myself in a slight donegal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish there was a nice summer counterpart to light grey tweed sports coats. All the ones I've seen just end looking drab and flat in comparison.
> 
> Yep, I agree. A lot of clothing looks great in a perfect photo shot too, but not necessarily when you buy and actually wear them.
> 
> That's one benefit I've noticed with OTR vs. custom/bespoke. You can see exactly how something will look and pair, or you can return it.
> 
> Swatches help of course for bespoke or MTM, but I've made poor decisions even based on those.
> 
> I found another coat that looks great, but likely wouldn't work in my wardrobe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also found an old thread the other day and found a post of yours mentioning you had a custom coat made by RL. Longer and closer cut. I'm always a sucker for pictures, do you happen to have any of that one?


I don't, but I can pull it out and snap a few pics with my ancient iPhone. The RL MTM coat was made specifically to be a conservative biz coat. Back with pics shortly.


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## Fading Fast

Okay, so, I took it out of its cotton storage hanging bag and remembered how nice a coat it is, but also, how much of a dated biz coat it is also. I had it make about twelve years ago and, in that time, coats like this have all but disappeared.


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## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> Okay, so, I took it out of its cotton storage hanging bag and remembered how nice a coat it is, but also, how much of a dated biz coat it is also. I had it make about twelve years ago and, in that time, coats like this have all but disappeared.
> 
> View attachment 52438
> View attachment 52439
> View attachment 52440
> View attachment 52441
> View attachment 52442
> View attachment 52444


That's a damn fine coat, I love it.

I've actually been curious on a proper SB coat too, but I've been hesitant due to the longer open neck on them. Has that ever been an issue in terms of warmth?

The taper in the waist looks really good too. I'm curious as to what aspects you find "dated". I can see that still being worn with no one batting an eyelash.

To me, dated is something that's not really wearable today, like 90s ultra low gorge jackets with wide lapels, or the Thom Browne cropped look.


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## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> That's a damn fine coat, I love it.
> 
> I've actually been curious on a proper SB coat too, but I've been hesitant due to the longer open neck on them. Has that ever been an issue in terms of warmth?
> 
> The taper in the waist looks really good too. I'm curious as to what aspects you find "dated". I can see that still being worn with no one batting an eyelash.
> 
> To me, dated is something that's not really wearable today, like 90s ultra low gorge jackets with wide lapels, or the Thom Browne cropped look.


Thank you, I know it sounds funny to compliment your own stuff, but it really is a nice coat.

The long neck is not ideal, but MTM only gives you so many options. That said, when it gets cold enough, a scarf solves that issue and I always wear a scarf with it (or any winter coat) from the mid 30s in temperature down anyway, so the long neck is not really a problem. And in the 40s, it's actually nice as you can wear the coat and not overheat.

As to "dated," I was referring to the fact that so few people wear them anymore. I agree, that it's not dated for what it is, it's just that not a lot of men wear long, dark business overcoats anymore.

I haven't been to an in-person meeting since pre-Covid, but even biz meetings in the winter where people came in suits, a lot of them wore shorter topcoats or even more casual coats like Barbour or some version of puffer coats (if that's what they are called).

I got the feeling that some men do that to "tone down" the "Wall Street" look as that is so out of favor with the culture now .


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## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> Thank you, I know it sounds funny to compliment your own stuff, but it really is a nice coat.
> 
> The long neck is not ideal, but MTM only gives you so many options. That said, when it gets cold enough, a scarf solves that issue and I always wear a scarf with it (or any winter coat) from the mid 30s in temperature down anyway, so the long neck is not really a problem. And in the 40s, it's actually nice as you can wear the coat and not overheat.
> 
> As to "dated," I was referring to the fact that so few people wear them anymore. I agree, that it's not dated for what it is, it's just that not a lot of men wear long, dark business overcoats anymore.
> 
> I haven't been to an in-person meeting since pre-Covid, but even biz meetings in the winter where people came in suits, a lot of them wore shorter topcoats or even more casual coats like Barbour or some version of puffer coats (if that's what they are called).
> 
> I got the feeling that some men do that to "tone down" the "Wall Street" look as that is so out of favor with the culture now .


I feel you on that, sometimes a piece of clothing gives so much joy there's no point in being humble about it!

Makes sense on the scarf. I think I already mentioned it, but that's why I really wish longer scarves were common.

Agreed, a long dark business overcoat is very rare. I watched the Godfather for the very first time last year and was struck by how dramatic the overcoats looked. That's partially what spurred my interest in a longer overcoat.

A Barbour or puffer coat does seem more rural or technical and perhaps looks more approachable from that mind-set.

I think the good news is that any type of overcoat is probably easier to pull off than even a suit or sports coat in basically every setting. I'm definitely a fan of the trend of raglan/Balmacaan coats being on the upswing.

My tailor mentioned he hadn't made one in a "very long time", and then he made 3 in a month recently, including mine.


----------



## never behind

Fading Fast said:


> As to "dated," I was referring to the fact that so few people wear them anymore. I agree, that it's not dated for what it is, it's just that not a lot of men wear long, dark business overcoats anymore.


I get this. When I was in the office this week I wore my heavy charcoal herringbone overcoat. I had the awareness walking down the street that I must look like a dinosaur. Then I realized I didn't care because it's a cool coat and it keeps me warm.


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## Fading Fast




----------



## Troones

eagle2250 said:


> Interesting lapel pin...is there a story behind it?


I was going to comment on the lapel pin as well. In a recent thread I professed my fondness for lapel pins. Quirky ones like this are especially neat.


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## Fading Fast




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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 52503


That is a great looking Tweed, one that I would love to have in my closet, but I must tell you, a fence rail is never a comfortable place on which to perch one's posterior. Take this from a (long ago) farm boy! LOL.


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## Fading Fast




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## Fading Fast




----------



## DCR

Crosspost from today's fit.


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## Troones

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 52542


I reallllly like this one! The warmth and heft of tweed, but in somewhat brighter colors than standard. Though I suppose you could consider these festive candy cane colors which fits the season. 
If it just had notch lapels and I spotted it for sale I'd be all over it.


----------



## some_dude

never behind said:


> I get this. When I was in the office this week I wore my heavy charcoal herringbone overcoat. I had the awareness walking down the street that I must look like a dinosaur. Then I realized I didn't care because it's a cool coat and it keeps me warm.


Never worry about looking like a "dinosaur." Speaking as a committed dinosaur, who wears suits, long overcoats (either a trench coat or a dark charcoal wool overcoat, depending on the weather), and a fedora on a regular basis, I can tell you that people notice, and furthermore, they seem to appreciate it.

Since the whole pandemic thing started, I have gotten more positive comments on my attire from strangers (literally from homeless people to very attractive ladies) than in my entire life.

The key is to smile, and be comfortable with yourself.


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## Fading Fast




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## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 52647


That Herringbone Tweed is a magnificent jacket, but I wouldn't be pairing it with a pair of stark white, five pocket jeans!


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## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> That Herringbone Tweed is a magnificent jacket, but I wouldn't be pairing it with a pair of stark white, five pocket jeans!


I wouldn't be pairing anything with stark-white jeans as I have an ability to get things dirty before they leave the house. I've never owned, and never plan on owning, a pair of stark-white pants. 

Kidding aside, I agree, white does not work with that jacket at all. I could see a "stone" colored chino or, maybe, a winter-white pair of flannels, but not those jeans. I could even imagine a pair of wheat jeans doing okay.

In all those cases, it depends on the exact hue and tone of the color and the texture of the pants involved, but I've worn stone chinos and wheat jeans with similar herringbones and it's looked good.


----------



## drpeter

Cream-coloured flannels (like cricketing flannels worn in colder weather) could be a good alternative to stark white. I do have a couple of pairs and they look great with navy blue blazers and with sportcoats of almost any hue (greys, browns, etc) any pattern (POW checks, houndstooth, etc.). Like khakis, their neutrality helps them to be universal, and they are perhaps not as susceptible to dirt as stark white trousers.

My very first pair of trousers, at the ripe old age of 14 (before that age, boys wore shorts in India) was white cotton drill, thick and substantial. They did get a bit dirty, but they were functional, and most other lads wore them. In tropical countries people often wore white drill trousers and even jackets. But beige, khaki and cream were alternate colours for the same reason that Fading Fast mentions. Now everyone wears blue jeans!


----------



## Troones

Fading Fast said:


> I wouldn't be pairing anything with stark-white jeans as I have an ability to get things dirty before they leave the house. I've never owned, and never plan on owning, a pair of stark-white pants.
> 
> Kidding aside, I agree, white does not work with that jacket at all. I could see a "stone" colored chino or, maybe, a winter-white pair of flannels, but not those jeans. I could even imagine a pair of wheat jeans doing okay.
> 
> In all those cases, it depends on the exact hue and tone of the color and the texture of the pants involved, but I've worn stone chinos and wheat jeans with similar herringbones and it's looked good.


I agree completely with winter white flannels. I think that would be an incredible look. I'd like to recreate that ensemble with flannels as I think it's close to perfect.

I still think blue jeans work with tweed though. I say work tweed into your life any time you can.

Ps. This is the best thread ever. And plenty more tweed season to go!


----------



## drpeter

I am all for tweeds too. Tweed goes well with two of my favourite types of trousers -- grey flannels and khakis. And I ust picked up a couple of nice tweed sports jackets -- a herringbone in greyish brown and a tic weave in cream and brown. More details in the thrift shopping thread.


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## Oldsarge

eagle2250 said:


> That Herringbone Tweed is a magnificent jacket, but I wouldn't be pairing it with a pair of stark white, five pocket jeans!


The shirt and tie, on the other hand, are perfect.


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## Oldsarge




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## Fading Fast

How nice is this material?


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## Oldsarge




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## Fading Fast




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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge




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## Fading Fast




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## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 52759


An attractive Tweed design, for sure, but those bellows pockets make it a must have! Thanks for sharing.


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## David J. Cooper

Not sure about the pocket. It looks like someone fashioned a courier envelope out of matching fabric then sewed it on the jacket.


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## Oldsarge

David J. Cooper said:


> Not sure about the pocket. It looks like someone fashioned a courier envelope out of matching fabric then sewed it on the jacket.


No, those are real countryside pockets for a tweed jacket. You keep extra shotgun shells or snares or even a ferret in them. Very handy.


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## Fading Fast

Cross post with the Ralph thread.


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## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


>


That's a heck of a pocket square he's got.


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## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> That's a heck of a pocket square he's got.


I'd like one like it.


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## Oldsarge




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## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 52834


Where are the rest of the Rat Pack, Peter Lawford and Joey Bishop? :icon_scratch:


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> That's a heck of a pocket square he's got.


Even I am unable to find fault with that pocket square. Egads, I may have been converted to being a true believer! :crazy:


----------



## David J. Cooper

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 52835


My favourite yet in 257 pages. Can we get more tweed shooting jackets. I love them

I bought a €100 one from New Forest Clothing and I love it. I know it won't last a life time and the tweed is a bit dull, unlike this one that is so vibrant.


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## Oldsarge

David J. Cooper said:


> My favourite yet in 257 pages. Can we get more tweed shooting jackets. I love them
> 
> I bought a €100 one from New Forest Clothing and I love it. I know it won't last a life time and the tweed is a bit dull, unlike this one that is so vibrant.


the entire combination is superb. I think I may have a shirt like that. Now I need a kelly green knit tie.


----------



## Troones

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 52750


I'm just drooling over this. Everything about this. I especially like how cleanly the breast pockets on the jacket are presented. Not too big but still real pockets (if that makes sense.)

This is a very noob question but I've had my facts mixed up numerous times and want to clarify; that style of tweed is referred to as a field jacket, correct? Or is field jacket more military?

Either way, I'd love to know where I could pick up an identical jacket. Outstanding.


----------



## Oldsarge

Troones said:


> I'm just drooling over this. Everything about this. I especially like how cleanly the breast pockets on the jacket are presented. Not too big but still real pockets (if that makes sense.)
> 
> This is a very noob question but I've had my facts mixed up numerous times and want to clarify; that style of tweed is referred to as a field jacket, correct? Or is field jacket more military?
> 
> Either way, I'd love to know where I could pick up an identical jacket. Outstanding.


It's a four pocket sports coat in a style that is more common in Scandinavia, I believe, than in the UK. I don't know where you can buy one OTR but I had Hemrajani make me one. I'm really looking forward to wearing it again.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 52835


I have that coat or one very similar, shirt in several colorways and a merino sweater vest in that color as well. 
I don't have that tie, I'm not fond of them.

Happy new year to all.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 52894


Individually, I like the vest and the sport coat (and love the tie), but the vest and sport coat, IMO, don't go well together.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 52923
> View attachment 52924


An interesting design for a Tweed Jacket...looks a bit like a fireman's coat with all that hardware. I must admit some gutteral level of appeal. Were it mine, those rivets at the corners of the pockets would have to go. It's a tweed jacket, not a pair of denims. Just a thought.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Troones

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 52971


Now this is just stunning. There's something very calming about this pattern and color combination. Hard to put into words.


----------



## Fading Fast

Todd Snyder

*HARRIS TWEED VARSITY JACKET IN OLIVE*
*







*


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ No love for the Tweed bomber jacket (can't disagree, didn't do much for me either).

⇩ How 'bout this guy?


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ No love for the Tweed bomber jacket (can't disagree, didn't do much for me either).
> 
> ⇩ How 'bout this guy?
> View attachment 53118


Now that's more like it. Are those leather gussets on the side pockets? If so, I'll take one to go!


----------



## Oldsarge

eagle2250 said:


> Now that's more like it. Are those leather gussets on the side pockets? If so, I'll take one to go!


That and a good sweater should take you through all but the most Arctic (or Antarctic) of conditions.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Nuttin', not even a grumble about the "Harris Tweed" boots.

Okay, what about these ⇩









Or these ⇩


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Nuttin', not even a grumble about the "Harris Tweed" boots.
> 
> Okay, what about these ⇩
> View attachment 53264
> 
> 
> Or these ⇩
> View attachment 53265


Tweed boots/shoes are not a viable wardrobing option in my opinion. While in all candor, I have virtually no direct experience with them, I have owned and worn a number of spectator shoe designs that incorporated fabric parts and in every case the shoes were disposed of prematurely (IMHO) because of noticeable wear/staining of the fabric components of the shoes. I doubt the tweed parts would prove any more durable! Just a thought.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Tweed boots/shoes are not a viable wardrobing option in my opinion. While in all candor, I have virtually no direct experience with them, I have owned and worn a number of spectator shoe designs that incorporated fabric parts and in every case the shoes were disposed of prematurely (IMHO) because of noticeable wear/staining of the fabric components of the shoes. I doubt the tweed parts would prove any more durable! Just a thought.


Visually, I like the second boot I posted, but for the reasons you note, I don't have much interest in buying a pair. Also, sadly, I have several lace up boots that don't get enough wear as it is in my WFH life and in our casual-dress world.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Nuttin', not even a grumble about the "Harris Tweed" boots.
> 
> Okay, what about these ⇩
> View attachment 53264
> 
> 
> Or these ⇩
> View attachment 53265


I don't have much use for dress boots but the captoes are ALRIGHT!


----------



## Fading Fast

From the Salt Water New England site:








https://www.saltwaternewengland.com


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> From the Salt Water New England site:
> View attachment 53326
> 
> https://www.saltwaternewengland.com


Odd source. Perhaps someone plans to shoot sea ducks in great style? That is a shooting gillet.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## some_dude

Fading Fast said:


> Visually, I like the second boot I posted, but for the reasons you note, I don't have much interest in buying a pair. Also, sadly, I have several lace up boots that don't get enough wear as it is in my WFH life and in our casual-dress world.


I probably wouldn't wear those boots, even though they do seem sort of cool, but I would definitely classify them as "casual dress"-- I would wear them with jeans, most likely.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

I WANT that tie bar!


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## EclecticSr.

Oldsarge said:


> I WANT that tie bar!


Appears to be a flintlock sarge.


----------



## Oldsarge

Yup, of the sort that used to be called a 'horse pistol'.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 53536


I do so love the Tweed, but in this present instance, I'm just not sure the fabric was put to it's highest and best use. A sport coat, oh yes; a nice pair of tweed trousers, perhaps; but not a backpack! Just thinkin. LOL.


----------



## Fading Fast

I think this is a dupe, but fun to see again anyway.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## pammannion

Every season's tweed season in our household, hubby and i can't get enough of it!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 53647


Bulletproof Tweed, for sure. The bullets won't kill you wearing that jacket, but heat stroke might still take you out...if one were foolish enough to try wearing that jacket here in central Florida. LOL!


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## StephenRG

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 53647


It's astonishing how much I need that jacket atm.


----------



## Fading Fast

Something fun for Friday and a cross post with the Ralph Lauren thread:


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Something fun for Friday and a cross post with the Ralph Lauren thread:
> View attachment 53724


What a great way to use the scraps of fabric left from the cutting of a classic Tweed suit!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 53769


Not THAT'S a coat designed for the countryside! Not just bi-swing back but leather reinforced cuffs as well. I'd like one like that. Maybe in a year or so when the plague has passed and Hemrajani is back in the clothing business.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Troones

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 53769


I recognize this as a dup you posted a while back. However, I'm still just as mesmerized now. I can't get enough of the burgundy leather trim on the cuffs. I know some don't like elbow patches but I'm a fan. Action back is awesome.

It's official: This is my favorite jacket in the history of this thread.


----------



## Fading Fast

Might also be a dupe, but seemed appropriate after the applause for yesterday's jacket.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 53769


I want that jacket...or at least one just like it!


----------



## Oldsarge

Maybe if enough of us do, we could get a group discount. Who's still doing tailoring?


----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> Maybe if enough of us do, we could get a group discount. Who's still doing tailoring?


Count me in. :amazing:


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flairball

Cross post from the TWAYWT thread, but I thought I'd share this here, too. I've not broken out this HT in a while. It's quite nice, and one of my favorites.


----------



## Oldsarge

Flairball said:


> Cross post from the TWAYWT thread, but I thought I'd share this here, too. I've not broken out this HT in a while. It's quite nice, and one of my favorites.
> View attachment 53939


It looks so good and SO warm!


----------



## Fading Fast

From a Polo email this week that was titled "Tailored Tweeds: Spring heritage tweed fabrication, woven for a lightweight feel that's perfect for the season." ["Spring heritage tweed fabrication" yeah, sure, whatever Ralph].


----------



## eagle2250

Flairball said:


> Cross post from the TWAYWT thread, but I thought I'd share this here, too. I've not broken out this HT in a while. It's quite nice, and one of my favorites.
> View attachment 53939


Great job of layering!


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

I. Want. That. Tie!


----------



## challer

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 52759


This I want


----------



## challer

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 52674
> 
> How nice is this material?


Awesome


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 54060


It appears to be a left handed shooting jacket? A bit unusual. Could this be a message from gawd that it's time to pick up another AR15 shooting platform? Gotta be ready for that Zombie Apocalypse. LOL.


----------



## Oldsarge

eagle2250 said:


> It appears to be a left handed shooting jacket? A bit unusual. Could this be a message from gawd that it's time to pick up another AR15 shooting platform? Gotta be ready for that Zombie Apocalypse. LOL.


It's either a southpaw or a reversed negative. In either case, that's a jacket of jackets!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## challer

Oldsarge said:


> It's either a southpaw or a reversed negative. In either case, that's a jacket of jackets!


Based on the location of the lapel buttonhole, it does not appear mirrored. Curious wok the tailor was


----------



## Flairball

challer said:


> Based on the location of the lapel buttonhole, it does not appear mirrored. Curious wok the tailor was


I agree, it looks like it was made for a left handed shooter. It is not unusual to see garments made for a left handed shooter. Most shooting garments are made ambidextrous, but many make a left handed version. Certainly anyone buying a bespoke garment, provided they were a left handed shooter, would have the garment made that way.

As it is, a good friend, who is one of the best best skeet and sporting clays shooters I know, is a left handed shooter.


----------



## Oldsarge

My son, who is functionally ambidextrous, has a dominant left eye so he shoots left handed.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Not often you see a left shoulder pad on a sporting jacket off the peg. I could be wrong but, I sense that pad was put on to accommodate a southpaw shooter on a jacket that did not come with any shooting pad. 

Just seems that way to me, I could be wrong , but the shape and stitching doesn't appear to be factory as I might envision on ready made. Correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## Oldsarge

EclecticSr. said:


> Not often you see a left shoulder pad on a sporting jacket off the peg. I could be wrong but, I sense that pad was put on to accommodate a southpaw shooter on a jacket that did not come with any shooting pad.
> 
> Just seems that way to me, I could be wrong , but the shape and stitching doesn't appear to be factory as I might envision on ready made. Correct me if I'm wrong.


I wouldn't be surprised if you were right. The leather on the image is polished and smooth where most OTR shooting jackets have suede. What the exact reason for the choice might be is outside my experience.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> My son, who is functionally ambidextrous, has a dominant left eye so he shoots left handed.


I am a Southpaw, I think? I write with my left hand, but seem to do most else with my right. Does that make me ambidextrous...or just confused?


----------



## EclecticSr.

eagle2250 said:


> I am a Southpaw, I think? I write with my left hand, but seem to do most else with my right. Does that make me ambidextrous...or just confused?


Both


----------



## Oldsarge

eagle2250 said:


> I am a Southpaw, I think? I write with my left hand, but seem to do most else with my right. Does that make me ambidextrous...or just confused?


Yes


----------



## Tweedlover

eagle2250 said:


> I am a Southpaw, I think? I write with my left hand, but seem to do most else with my right. Does that make me ambidextrous...or just confused?


Same with me.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## challer

Oldsarge said:


> My son, who is functionally ambidextrous, has a dominant left eye so he shoots left handed.


Never could make the switch. Left dominate, right handed. I'm sure there are a few lost birds but the effort to relearn at 60 is not on the list. Birds are no problem. You would think the guy who wrote the specifications would get matching hand/eye dominance.


----------



## some_dude

Sorry, but doesn't work with that skirt. I would suggest some trousers.



Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 54141


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 54225


I'm not crazy about the jacket, but for that jacket, I think the outfit is outstanding.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## DCR

Good Ol' TR. Bully!


----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 54292


This Country would be in a lot better shape if we could bring back our 26th President...one of the great ones!


----------



## Fading Fast

Some fun Tweed from classic Hollywood for a Friday.

David Niven (note the one undone button on the sleeve)









Gary Cooper ("Trying hard to look like Gary Cooper -" Puttin' on the Ritz)

















Bonita Granville


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Tweedlover

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 54394


Love the colors of that jacket.


----------



## Fading Fast

Tweedlover said:


> Love the colors of that jacket.


I was impressed with how well the pattern was lined up - clearly a well-made garment.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 54473


So beautifully coordinated without any egregious matching. Splendid.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 54632


However, those collar points sticking out of the turtleneck have got to go!


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> However, those collar points sticking out of the turtleneck have got to go!


That's been an odd fashion tic that's been popping up now and then for years. I don't get it either, but these fashion companies need to do something different, so all these oddball things show up again and again.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fortunately the coat and turtleneck are top drawer!


----------



## Tweedlover

Fading Fast said:


> That's been an odd fashion tic that's been popping up now and then for years. I don't get it either, but these fashion companies need to do something different, so all these oddball things show up again and again.


I never noticed it the first time. Have never seen that before. Not a good look.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> However, those collar points sticking out of the turtleneck have got to go!


Good lawd, I missed that. Thanks for pointing it out! Must be time for me to get my eyes checked again.


----------



## Fading Fast

Some Sunday Classic Hollywood Tweed.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast

I tend to keep TCM on in the background and, yesterday, this awesome suit popped up in the 1941 movie "The Feminine Touch" (I've seen the movie before, it's okay, but nothing more) worn by actor Don Ameche. The pics don't really do it justice as, in the movie, you can feel its wonderful Tweediness.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> I tend to keep TCM on in the background and, yesterday, this awesome suit popped up in the 1941 movie "The Feminine Touch" (I've seen the movie before, it's okay, but nothing more) worn by actor Don Ameche. The pics don't really do it justice as, in the movie, you can feel its wonderful Tweediness.
> View attachment 54709
> View attachment 54710


I'm not sure which photo left the greater impression om me; the Bouffant hair comb or perhaps the high waisted trousers. Those were indeed the days! However, there is no doubt about it...I love the Tweed.


----------



## Tweedlover

eagle2250 said:


> I'm not sure which photo left the greater impression om me; the Bouffant hair comb or perhaps the high waisted trousers. Those were indeed the days! However, there is no doubt about it...I love the Tweed.


One of the reasons I preferred older suits was the higher waisted pants. The modern emphasis on lower waisted didn't cut it for me.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 54740


The jacket is superb, the rust hue of the corduroy trousers is marginal with that jacket, and that rolled trouser leg looks like sh....(?), well let's just say the rolled cuff just shouldn't be there! LOL.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> The jacket is superb, the rust hue of the corduroy trousers is marginal with that jacket, and that rolled trouser leg looks like sh....(?), well let's just say the rolled cuff just shouldn't be there! LOL.


I love that sport coat too. The last thing I need is another sport coat, but if I found that one in my size, I'd be really, really tempted.


----------



## Tweedlover

eagle2250 said:


> The jacket is superb, the rust hue of the corduroy trousers is marginal with that jacket, and that rolled trouser leg looks like sh....(?), well let's just say the rolled cuff just shouldn't be there! LOL.


Rolling the cuffs like that isn't a particularly good look. Is that another recent fashion trend of dubious character I've (fortunately) missed seeing? I know that rolling the cuffs of jeans up a bit is a thing lately. Some look OK to me that way, but generally not something I'd endorse. Corduroy trousers in that color are nice, but tend to agree that the color may be marginal with that jacket.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 54748


Absent the popped collar, that is another example of a tweed jacket that I do so love...a true wardrobe staple!


----------



## Tweedlover

eagle2250 said:


> Absent the popped collar, that is another example of a tweed jacket that I do so love...a true wardrobe staple!


Popped collars on topcoats are fine by me. Not so much on sport coats.


----------



## David J. Cooper

Tweedlover said:


> Rolling the cuffs like that isn't a particularly good look. Is that another recent fashion trend of dubious character I've (fortunately) missed seeing? I know that rolling the cuffs of jeans up a bit is a thing lately. Some look OK to me that way, but generally not something I'd endorse. Corduroy trousers in that color are nice, but tend to agree that the color may be marginal with that jacket.


It and tucked in sweaters have been a staple of the RL Polo look for as long as I can remember.


----------



## Troones

Fading Fast said:


> I love that sport coat too. The last thing I need is another sport coat, but if I found that one in my size, I'd be really, really tempted.


Count me as another great admirer of that jacket. What do you think about the turned back cuffs though? I'm sometimes tempted to try it as I always have to get sleeves on new sport coats shortened. I'd really like to avoid having to do it for maybe just one jacket.


----------



## Fading Fast

Troones said:


> Count me as another great admirer of that jacket. What do you think about the turned back cuffs though? I'm sometimes tempted to try it as I always have to get sleeves on new sport coats shortened. I'd really like to avoid having to do it for maybe just one jacket.


I'd say try it on one sport coat as you suggest and see if you are comfortable doing it. That's how I discover if I'm okay "stretching" things a bit. I usually know within a few hours whether I'm good with what I'm doing or if I'll never do it again.

Jeans-sneakers-and-a-tweed-sportcoat - yup, love it / no socks with dress shoes, dress trousers and sport coat - one and done, didn't work for me, felt uncomfortable the entire time.

Give it a shot once on the sport coat and you'll have your answer. If it's yes - great / if no, off to the tailor to shorten the sleeves, no big deal.


----------



## Oldsarge

Or convert the sleeves to gauntlet cuffs. I don't have one like that but . . .

Oh, and the reason I've been away for a week is that Portland had an ice storm that knocked out power over most of metro area Saturday morning. I just got mine back about an hour ago. Note that you heard all the moaning and sobbing about Texas but not a peep about the PNW.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> Or convert the sleeves to gauntlet cuffs. I don't have one like that but . . .
> 
> Oh, and the reason I've been away for a week is that Portland had an ice storm that knocked out power over most of metro area Saturday morning. I just got mine back about an hour ago. Note that you heard all the moaning and sobbing about Texas but not a peep about the PNW.


Speaking for many, let me just say it is good having you back!


----------



## Troones

Oldsarge said:


> Or convert the sleeves to gauntlet cuffs. I don't have one like that but . . .
> 
> Oh, and the reason I've been away for a week is that Portland had an ice storm that knocked out power over most of metro area Saturday morning. I just got mine back about an hour ago. Note that you heard all the moaning and sobbing about Texas but not a peep about the PNW.


I caught that on the news about Portland. That's brutal, but glad your power is finally back. What a vicious late winter it's been.

It's scary being without power and with no ETA. Back in 2013 Toronto had a vicious ice storm at Christmas and some were without power for a week. My family and I were lucky. Just 48 hours for us.


----------



## David J. Cooper

Oldsarge said:


> Or convert the sleeves to gauntlet cuffs. I don't have one like that but . . .
> 
> Oh, and the reason I've been away for a week is that Portland had an ice storm that knocked out power over most of metro area Saturday morning. I just got mine back about an hour ago. Note that you heard all the moaning and sobbing about Texas but not a peep about the PNW.


I thought it was something I said.


----------



## Oldsarge

Had I not a gas-with-pilot light fireplace and water heater and a kitchen stovetop I can light with a match, the week would have been far more miserable than it was. But thanks for all the good wishes.


----------



## Oldsarge

About the right number of layers for any of our Texas brethren.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast

On mute in the background yesterday, I had on TCM and "The Fortune Cookie" from 1966 was playing. The movie has a ton of Ivy-era clothes, but the Tweed overcoats, in particular, caught my eye.

I looked for awhile, but only found a few pics (most not great) of the coats. Check out this one worn by Walter Matthau (in the second pic, you can tell the material must have had some great flecking):
























And this cool raglan also made a brief appearance:


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> On mute in the background yesterday, I had on TCM and "The Fortune Cookie" from 1966 was playing. The movie has a ton of Ivy-era clothes, but the Tweed overcoats, in particular, caught my eye.
> 
> I looked for awhile, but only found a few pics (most not great) of the coats. Check out this one worn by Walter Matthau (in the second pic, you can tell the material must have had some great flecking):
> View attachment 54824
> View attachment 54825
> 
> View attachment 54827
> 
> 
> And this cool raglan also made a brief appearance:
> View attachment 54829


Memorable tweeds for sure, and all sufficiently heavy to be bulletproof!


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Memorable tweeds for sure, and all sufficiently heavy to be bulletproof!


Spot on. These coats were built for winter first, style second. I'm still amazed at how they have all but disappeared from the general population's wardrobe. It seemed, up until about twenty years ago, big, heavy and warm overcoats were still going strong.

Now, I hardly ever see these type of coats on anyone under fifty (sixty?). Even if you see a "traditional" overcoat on someone young, it tends to be a shorter, thinner one - more about style than warmth.


----------



## Tweedlover

Can't beat those old long, heavy topcoats. Being a tweed lover, if I found a tweed one thrifting, I'd probably snatch it up


----------



## Fading Fast

Tweedlover said:


> Can't beat those old long, heavy topcoats. Being a tweed lover, if I found a tweed one thrifting, I'd probably snatch it up


I bought one from @TweedyDon (he's has outstanding clothes, is great to do business with and is a very nice guy - in fact, here it is  #31,699 ) a few years back. The prices of these old coats are very low as, as noted, people have lost interest in them. Keep looking, I'll bet you'll find some great ones at very reasonable prices.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Tweedlover

Very nice.


----------



## Fading Fast

Tweedlover said:


> Very nice.


Agreed, I love its shade of blue.


----------



## Fading Fast

Cross post with the Ralph thread.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 54898
> 
> Cross post with the Ralph thread.


A great suit and the shirt compliments it well, investing it with some much needed pop. However, I find my attention drawn to the chair he is sitting on. I can honestly lay claim to a couple of hobnail trimmed leather easy chairs, not any covered in gator hide. That chair must have cost a small fortune! :crazy:


----------



## Tweedlover

eagle2250 said:


> A great suit and the shirt compliments it well, investing it with some much needed pop. However, I find my attention drawn to the chair he is sitting on. I can honestly lay claim to a couple of hobnail trimmed leather easy chairs, not any covered in gator hide. That chair must have cost a small fortune! :crazy:


I love the suit but love the chair even more. Cost aside, while I love the look of some leather furniture, it is not only a bit more impractical than fabric furniture, I don't think it's as comfortable as fabric furniture.


----------



## eagle2250

Tweedlover said:


> I love the suit but love the chair even more. Cost aside, while I love the look of some leather furniture, it is not only a bit more impractical than fabric furniture, I don't think it's as comfortable as fabric furniture.


The comfort of the piece is largely dependent on the quality of the hides used in the upholstery, but truth be known, for those of us living in the sub-tropics, the air conditioners must be worked a bit harder for leather furniture to sit comfortably in the warmer months of the year! LOL.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 54916


the single thing I can imagine doing to improve the design of that incredible Tweed would be to experiment with dual vents, rather than the single vent shown. However I cannot recall ever seeing one with dual vents?


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> the single thing I can imagine doing to improve the design of that incredible Tweed would be to experiment with dual vents, rather than the single vent shown. However I cannot recall ever seeing one with dual vents?


Funny, I have a couple of J.Crew Tweed sport coats that are double vented. I'd have preferred a single, but, in truth, the double vent looks fine. A touch less "Ivy" than I'd have gone for if I had had the choice, but these inexpensive coats are outstanding value. I have several of the J.Crew ones that I've owned for years and they just keep going, so no complaints from me.


----------



## Tweedlover

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 54916


I like the belted look but not that crazy about elbow patches. Though, decades ago did own a tweed with them. I gave away several tweeds many years ago when I grew out of them. If I'd known I'd eventually lose all that weight years later, probably would have hung on to them


----------



## Oldsarge

Hemrajani is back in the suit business so when he comes to town, I'll have Divij make me a similar (with side vents) one in corduroy. Drpeter and I have been discussing flannel slacks and I will explore those, too. Elbow patches on the corduroy are a definite necessity. It wears out a lot faster than good tweed.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## ran23

On side note, similar to the above Tweed, I saw a Anderson Little Tweed jacket on ebay that I may go for. My first 'green'. Any idea when they did tweed jackets??


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Tweedlover

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 54993
> 
> 
> View attachment 54995


Love that jacket-and the dog's cap. Have a thing for tweed flat caps.


----------



## Tweedlover

ran23 said:


> On side note, similar to the above Tweed, I saw a Anderson Little Tweed jacket on ebay that I may go for. My first 'green'. Any idea when they did tweed jackets??


Had never heard of the brand before. Bought my only Harris tweed from eBay.


----------



## Oldsarge

Tweedlover said:


> Love that jacket-and the dog's cap. Have a thing for tweed flat caps.


So do I. I am the RogerP of flat caps.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

I saw this coat when I had the 1959 movie "Libel" playing on mute in the background the other day. I tried to find a full-length pic of it, but couldn't. Yet even from this limited shot, you can see that it's a bold herringbone Tweed - a pretty impressive coat.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> I saw this coat when I had the 1959 movie "Libel" playing on mute in the background the other day. I tried to find a full-length pic of it, but couldn't. Yet even from this limited shot, you can see that it's a bold herringbone Tweed - a pretty impressive coat.
> View attachment 55109


That particular Tweed could stop an RPG, but sadly...it is not a southern tier jacket!


----------



## Eligius

Fading Fast said:


> I saw this coat when I had the 1959 movie "Libel" playing on mute in the background the other day. I tried to find a full-length pic of it, but couldn't. Yet even from this limited shot, you can see that it's a bold herringbone Tweed - a pretty impressive coat.


I had a similar experience recently with Royal Tenenbaums (admittedly one of my favorite movies) playing silently in the background and noticing Gene Hackman's herringbone covert coat:


----------



## Fading Fast

Eligius said:


> I had a similar experience recently with Royal Tenenbaums (admittedly one of my favorite movies) playing silently in the background and noticing Gene Hackman's herringbone covert coat:
> 
> View attachment 55114


That's a cool coat. I've never seen a tan collar on a herringbone coat - kinda like a chesterfield, but those contesting collars are usually black velvet.


----------



## TweedyDon

Fading Fast said:


> I bought one from @TweedyDon (he's has outstanding clothes, is great to do business with and is a very nice guy - in fact, here it is  #31,699 ) a few years back. The prices of these old coats are very low as, as noted, people have lost interest in them. Keep looking, I'll bet you'll find some great ones at very reasonable prices.


Thank you, Fading Fast! If you'd like to send me a picture of you wearing it I'd love to feature you in the "Real People, Real Clothes" series that I have on my Facebook page, WaterhollowTweed..... which is where I migrated after the old Thrift Exchange was closed!


----------



## Fading Fast

TweedyDon said:


> Thank you, Fading Fast! If you'd like to send me a picture of you wearing it I'd love to feature you in the "Real People, Real Clothes" series that I have on my Facebook page, WaterhollowTweed..... which is where I migrated after the old Thrift Exchange was closed!


Thank you for the offer. Let me think about it.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 55116


The colors of the Turtle neck and the Jacket work well together, however, the heft of the sweater seems to be overpowering the sizing of the jacket...yes, no? 
:icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> The colors of the Turtle neck and the Jacket work well together, however, the heft of the sweater seems to be overpowering the sizing of the jacket...yes, no?
> :icon_scratch:


I agree and think part of it is the ridiculous overly slim tailoring of almost everything today. I never had a problem with a chunky sweater under a Tweed sport coat until the more recent trend of cutting jackets much slimmer. And, yes, the colors go well together.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

Not only bullet proof but able to withstand a Claymore mine!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

Harris tweed. Oooo-wee. My favorite kinda tweed, even tho I think the Outer Hebrides is some place on the Jersey shore. Aided here by a post-18 year old model, snow white shirt and great lighting. I dismiss many posts in this thread because they don't include those three. Or the shot is so tight you wouldn't recognize it if you ran into it at the airport. Or in my case, the bait shop. (The pic in the post just above is case in point.)


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Tweedlover

Peak and Pine said:


> Harris tweed. Oooo-wee. My favorite kinda tweed, even tho I think the Outer Hebrides is some place on the Jersey shore. Aided here by a post-18 year old model, snow white shirt and great lighting. I dismiss many posts in this thread because they don't include those three. Or the shot is so tight you wouldn't recognize it if you ran into it at the airport. Or in my case, the bait shop. (The pic in the post just above is case in point.)
> View attachment 55296


Quite agree on the Harris tweed part. Think the model looks only 10 years post-18 however.  Whenever I've seen classy looking models who appear somewhere between 50 & 60 on rare occasion, I can relate more, (at least age-wise if not classiness).


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


>


⇧ While the sport coats are cool and the shirts neat, that piece of beautiful furniture is what really caught my eye.

⇩ For today's viewing:


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ While the sport coats are cool and the shirts neat, that piece of beautiful furniture is what really caught my eye.
> 
> ⇩ For today's viewing:
> View attachment 55311


I love the jacket and waistcoat, but the shirt (collar), not so much when paired with the Tweed suit!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## StephenRG

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 55388


Love it - but is it tweed or just a plaid pattern in a regular cloth?


----------



## Fading Fast

StephenRG said:


> Love it - but is it tweed or just a plaid pattern in a regular cloth?


I had a similar thought, but when I "expanded" the pic, I thought it looked fuzzy enough to be Tweed, but I could easily be wrong.


----------



## Tweedlover

Fading Fast said:


> I had a similar thought, but when I "expanded" the pic, I thought it looked fuzzy enough to be Tweed, but I could easily be wrong.


Whatever the case, it's a beautiful jacket.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast

In the 1940 movie "Remember the Night," Fred MacMurray's wardrobe is not part of the story, but as is typical of the time, he wore a bunch of Tweed. I tried to find better pics, but still, these gives you a sense of how much Tweed was in a man's wardrobe back in that day. And from memory, as it's been awhile since I've seen the movie, the overcoat in the first two pics is a long, beautiful raglan.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> In the 1940 movie "Remember the Night," Fred MacMurray's wardrobe is not part of the story, but as is typical of the time, he wore a bunch of Tweed. I tried to find better pics, but still, these gives you a sense of how much Tweed was in a man's wardrobe back in that day. And from memory, as it's been awhile since I've seen the movie, the overcoat in the first two pics is a long, beautiful raglan.
> 
> View attachment 55452


Ya know, I've never picked up on it before, but the young Fred MacMurray looks quite a lot like the older Ben Stiller....methinks?


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Ya know, I've never picked up on it before, but the young Fred MacMurray looks quite a lot like the older Ben Stiller....methinks?


I never noticed it before, but I see it now that you pointed it out.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Get thee both to an optometrist immediately, Fred is turning in his grave.


----------



## Fading Fast

EclecticSr. said:


> Get thee both to an optometrist immediately, Fred is turning in his grave.


I understand Fred's displeasure, but I see a bit of a resemblance.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Peak and Pine

^^^

Above shots, both, shown for the cloth and the sleeve treatments. (Not for fit, but note how far the sleeve of the first shot falls below the jacket. Sleeve's okay, jacket length is iffy.)


----------



## Tweedlover

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 55476


Am afraid the color and pattern of the elbow patch doesn't work for me with the tweed of the jacket.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 55479


The jacket, sweater and shirt are superb, but the bow tie...:crazy::crazy::crazy:! Wearing a bow tie with a V-necked sweater is but a venial sin.Wear a long tie. However, the maize and navy coloration (U of M) of said bow tie is, to we Nittany Lions in your midst, a mortal sin...and not to be allowed in our respective wardrobes! LOL.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 55508


Quite the proper set of tones for a day's grouse shooting on the moors, old chap.


----------



## Fading Fast

Looks "fuzzy" enough be Tweed, but not really sure, could just be flannel.


----------



## Tweedlover

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 55526
> 
> Looks "fuzzy" enough be Tweed, but not really sure, could just be flannel.


Attractive jacket. While I like a tweed and (dark) jeans look, I've never thought adding a tie to the ensemble looked right.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 55526
> 
> Looks "fuzzy" enough be Tweed, but not really sure, could just be flannel.


I really like that rig. I wear jeans, but don't often wear them with a coat and tie. However those jeans and that jacket work exceptionally well together. I find myself internally conflicted over what to do with the tie...keep it, lose it? Inquiring minds want to know.


----------



## Oldsarge

eagle2250 said:


> I really like that rig. I wear jeans, but don't often wear them with a coat and tie. However those jeans and that jacket work exceptionally well together. I find myself internally conflicted over what to do with the tie...keep it, lose it? Inquiring minds want to know.


I wear jeans daily until about July but never with a tie. Even when going out, I am happy to put a tweed or corduroy jacket over the denim, but _never_ with a tie.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Elementary.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Less so.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

Formula for a fun afternoon. Get tweeded up. Grab a stupid hat. Whistle real loud and see if you can get a pair of owls to land in your lap. Then sorta pretend you don't mind the blood dripping over your knees as the talons dig in.


----------



## Tweedlover

Peak and Pine said:


> Elementary.
> 
> View attachment 55543


I love tweed caps, but not this style. Flat caps for me, though I do own a number of pipes from the Sherlock Holmes line Peterson puts out.


----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> Formula for a fun afternoon. Get tweeded up. Grab a stupid hat. Whistle real loud and see if you can get a pair of owls to land in your lap. Then sorta pretend you don't mind the blood dripping over your knees as the talons dig in.
> 
> View attachment 55550


Having read each and every one of the Harry Potter tomes written by J. K. Rowling's and subsequently watching each of the movies, breach born from those books, I do believe I recognize that young man. He runs a used owl lot just outside of Hogwarts School of Wizardry and can often be found sitting on that bench, holding his best deals of the day for consideration by lost and confused Hogwarts students. LOL.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ If we still lived in a suit world and if my life called for a suit more than, maybe, twice a year (and I think Covid will have ended even that need), that would be my next suit purchase. But alas, my (guessing) ten or so suits sit bored everyday in my closet.

⇩ And today's offering:


----------



## Peak and Pine

Early Photo Shop, basic edition.
Scissors and glue.
And presto y'all, tweed man transforms into a layered up sweater wearing math teacher in a high school where the boiler doesn't always work.


----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 55598


If it hadn't been for the pleats in those trousers, I would have loved that suit! Oh well?


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fun fact for aging rock n' rollers. Before they were the Heartbreakers, it was Tom Petty and the Crofters. Then Harris Tweed sued them. Ah, it be a long day, living in Reseda.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

Brooks Brothers gun check tweed jacket, or gun club check or something with the word gun in it.



















These are_ as arrived_ pics. The jacket's on the form because it's being resized and both the back and front modified. These gun-whatever jackets are pretty common and would prefer mine to be a little less so. More on this later.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Tweedlover

Peak and Pine said:


> Brooks Brothers gun check tweed jacket, or gun club check or something with the word gun in it.
> 
> Thr photograph is poor. Presentation will be worked on because you probably shouldn't show off your stuff if it shows off poorly. The color looks like horse radish was on the lens and a steamed-up mirror offers sharper definition. This is what it oughta look like...
> 
> View attachment 55689
> 
> 
> These are As Arrived pics. The jacket's on the form because it's being resized and both the back and front modified. These gunwhatever jackets are pretty common and have never cared that much for common. More on this later.


I like gun check.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Tweedlover

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 55769


Yes to the jacket but no to whatever that brown zipped thing underneath it is.


----------



## eagle2250

Tweedlover said:


> Yes to the jacket but no to whatever that brown zipped thing underneath it is.


It looks like a zippered cardigan to me. :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast

It feels like a zip vest or cardigan as Eagle notes. I only think vest because it has a kind "gilet" type of collar. But either way, I agree, it feels off with that jacket.


----------



## ran23

Sad to say my Aquascatum Gun Check (38-short) doesn't fit me anymore.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Appears to be pinwale cord., but the jacket is nice. I agree , it does look off.


----------



## Fading Fast

Here's something you don't see everyday, a button-down collar on a Tweed overcoat. I have a vague memory of seeing a coat like this in Gorsart Clothes (a sorta discount Brooks Brothers) in the '80s.

This is the best pic I could find, but in the movie, you can clearly see it's a collar with a button hole on each flap and a button on each side of the body of the coat.

Robert Young is wearing it in the 1943 movie "Slightly Dangerous." (Comments on movie here:  #597 )


----------



## wildcat1976

Fading Fast said:


> Here's something you don't see everyday, a button-down collar on a Tweed overcoat. I have a vague memory of seeing a coat like this in Gorsart Clothes (a sorta discount Brooks Brothers) in the '80s.
> 
> This is the best pic I could find, but in the movie, you can clearly see it's a collar with a button hole on each flap and a button on each side of the body of the coat.
> 
> Robert Young is wearing it in the 1943 movie "Slightly Dangerous." (Comments on movie here:  #597 )
> View attachment 55790


Climbing a creaky staircase in a nondescript business and opening a heavy metal door to enter Gorsarts was my introduction to men's clothing. Our director of Human Resources told us to burn our college clothes and sent all the male members of my bank training program to Gorsarts to get presentable suits at affordable prices.


----------



## Fading Fast

wildcat1976 said:


> Climbing a creaky staircase in a nondescript business and opening a heavy metal door to enter Gorsarts was my introduction to men's clothing. Our director of Human Resources told us to burn our college clothes and sent all the male members of my bank training program to Gorsarts to get presentable suits at affordable prices.


That's a great story (I loved that door and staircase). I have such fond memory of the place. My first real boss on Wall St. did a similar thing for me - sent me there to start building a "real" wardrobe. It's a hard store to describe as, while it sold items at a discount to Brooks, etc., it wasn't a discount shop as we know them today.

It was something between a discounter and a regular merchant as it sold new items (not last year's cast offs) of the same quality as Brooks (many items came from the same manufacturers), but for less as it, clearly, had much less overhead. And the tailoring was top-notch and right on site which, looking back, was amazing. I can still see the "back room" full of tailors and seamstresses - quite an impressive operation.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Referencing the gun check tweed shown a few pics above and the modifications to be made, below is the first of six such. Crafting a breast pocket flap...


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> Here's something you don't see everyday, a button-down collar on a Tweed overcoat. I have a vague memory of seeing a coat like this in Gorsart Clothes (a sorta discount Brooks Brothers) in the '80s.
> 
> This is the best pic I could find, but in the movie, you can clearly see it's a collar with a button hole on each flap and a button on each side of the body of the coat.
> 
> Robert Young is wearing it in the 1943 movie "Slightly Dangerous." (Comments on movie here:  #597 )
> View attachment 55790


If I look very carefully at the left side of his coat (his left) in the shadow of the collar I believe I see the glint of the other button.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> If I look very carefully at the left side of his coat (his left) in the shadow of the collar I believe I see the glint of the other button.


It's hard to tell in the pic. When I watched the movie, I remember thinking it was odd, so I paused the movie and looked closely and it appeared to me there were two buttons and button holes, but I tried and could only find the above pic.

As noted, I also think I remember seeing a coat like that in the store in the '80s as, even then, I thought it was odd, but of course, that's a thirty-plus-year-old memory.

Anywho, it's a very cool coat. Watching these old movies from the '30s -'60s you can't help noticing how popular wool herringbone was. In sport coats, suits and overcoats, you not only see it all the time, but you see everything from small, barely noticeable herringbone patterns to bold, large-scaled ones.

Here's the same actor, Robert Young, in another movie, 1947's "Crossfire," where he plays a tough police inspector wearing a pretty bold herringbone tweed suit (the second pic gives you sense of the herringbone's scale). In thirty plus years in suit-wearing (until the past ten years) finance, I never saw a herringbone suit as bold as this one.
:


----------



## Fading Fast

Cross post with the Ralph thread.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Modification #2, creating a throat latch for the above. Pin wale corduroy, crimson. The index card cut-out forms the base around which the latch is sewn.









(In the cup is old fashioned Maine finger-stirred coffee. Yeah you get a blister or two, but the tradition outweighs the pain.)


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 55909


Perfect!


----------



## Tweedlover

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 55909


Very nice combo. The tartan tie looks a lot like the tartan tie I bought years ago when I first got into my Scottish heritage, which was in the Mackay pattern.


----------



## Peak and Pine

I have no photos of me at 18, but this stranger kid popped up on my photo feed and it matches a memory if not quite my hair, but certainly the clothes and I still have that kids jacket, scarf and argyle but not the shirt because back then I kept a shirt on for two weeks straight then threw it away.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

Not pleased with finished throat latch. Too narrow, too pointy. New wider template with rounded end created, below. It's been covered in the crimson corduroy shown and attached, along with the breast pocket flap featured somewhere above.










This is the last post for this project, in this thread. Phoenix like, it shall reimerge in a thread of it's own next week. Featuring modification #3: covered buttons. Ooooo.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Seldom seen, Norfolk in glen plaid...


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> Seldom seen, Norfolk in glen plaid...
> 
> View attachment 55973


Always a fan of Norfolk Jacket designs, I rather like what I am seeing, but I am confused by the coat sleeve cuffs. I've seen quite a few Norfolk and Half-Norfolk jacket designs over time, but never one on which the cuffs buttoned like a shirt sleeve. One more thing about men's style to ponder, I guess?


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Tweedlover

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 55993


Love those pockets.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 56072


A lot of competing patterns, but they do seem to work so well together! I really like that garment that looks much like a sweater vest.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> A lot of competing patterns, but they do seem to work so well together! I really like that garment that looks much like a sweater vest.


I agree, not something I would wear or ever put together, but it does work in a statement sort of way. I can't think of the name of the store, but I used to walk by it on 57th Street (a fancy shopping street) on my way to and from work, and it would have mannequins dressed like this. It was a very expensive boutique type of men's store with a European feel.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 56091


Classically handsome...all the way! Although, I am left wondering if that belt is really gator hide or just imprinted cowehide? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 56136


That is a very handsome estate waistcoat. I could certainly see myself wearing one of those on our next road trip north. Life is good.


----------



## Peak and Pine

eagle2250 said:


> That is a very handsome estate waistcoat.


It is. 'Cepting it's not a waistcoat. But a remarkable piece, with bag pockets to die for, iffen I did Valley girl speak.


----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> It is. 'Cepting it's not a waistcoat. But a remarkable piece, with bag pockets to die for, iffen I did Valley girl speak.


Well then let's call it a Shooting Vest...yes, no?


----------



## EclecticSr.

It is of course a shooting waistcoat even though it lacks the usual suede shoulder patch.
Easily available from a few British vendors, Allen Paine brand. Paine also makes tweed shooting coats as well. Not top tier brand as it goes but, not bottom rung either. Bag pockets to accommodate shells.

I myself am down to one tweed shooting coat, wool with waterproof membrane, bag pockets as well as slash handwarmer pockets., moleskin collar . I am quite fond of such coats and waistcoats.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Close in on the above...










...as well as this ...










A lot to like. And dirty fingernails. My kinda guy...


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## EclecticSr.

Perhaps somewhat of topic, but since this thread was started by Flanderian, could someone advise me as to what happened to him. I miss his posts.


----------



## eagle2250

EclecticSr. said:


> Perhaps somewhat of topic, but since this thread was started by Flanderian, could someone advise me as to what happened to him. I miss his posts.


Many of us sorely miss brother Flanderain's online musings. A while back several people reported having difficulty signing on to AAAC, I was one of them and member Flanderain was also one who reported such difficulty. As I understand it, work was being done on our servers and it took some time to work the bugs out. I suspect member Flanderain got frustrated and went on hiatus from active posting. He still drops in to visit on a very occasional basis. I share your sentiments as to his absence.


----------



## EclecticSr.

^^^^ Thank you, Hopefully all will be corrected.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Tweedlover

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 56294


Love pockets like this.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 56345


Love the Tweed, hate the fleece.....my feet are sweating already!


----------



## Tweedlover

eagle2250 said:


> Love the Tweed, hate the fleece.....my feet are sweating already!


Well, you do live in Florida.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Since there's no thread for camel's hair, I'm dropping this here...


----------



## Tweedlover

Peak and Pine said:


> Since there's no thread for camel's hair, I'm dropping this here...
> 
> View attachment 56358
> 
> 
> View attachment 56359
> 
> 
> View attachment 56360


Love the feel of camel hair. I have 2 camel hair sport coats, 1 in camel color and 1 in charcoal.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## challer

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 56345


Drapers are awesome, except for the branding tab


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 56416


The Batten Kill?


----------



## Peak and Pine

That's in Vermont. I've never been in Vermont, odd as that may seeem, so I dunno. I think it's where my maple syrup comes from. And my preferred Presidential candidates.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 56393


Daniel Craig starring in a biopic focusing on Alex Rodrigueze's life in the sport, perhaps? LOL.  One could very reasonably conclude the person who authored this post has a mind that has gone fubar...or so says SWMBO! :crazy:


----------



## DCR

eagle2250 said:


> Daniel Craig starring in a biopic focusing on Alex Rodrigueze's life in the sport, perhaps? LOL.  One could very reasonably conclude the person who authored this post has a mind that has gone fubar...or so says SWMBO! :crazy:


I'd venture to guess that may be a production still from the upcoming sequel to knives out. I believe that was the same coat he wore in the first film.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Old guy alert!
Old guy alert!










Age appropriate check. Everything okay. Agree?


----------



## Fading Fast

Yesterday, on mute in the background, I saw part of 1961's "Splendor in the Grass." Warren Beatty wore a couple of cool Tweed items, a classic herringbone overcoat (I think it's raglan, but only saw it for a flash as I do try to do some work from time to time) and a blue-grey herringbone sport coat. While there are a ton of pictures out there for the movie, I struggled to find any on these items and came up with only one so-so pic for each. But here they are.
















It's amazing how ubiquitous herringbone Tweed was back then (and in the '50s, '40s and '30s too).


----------



## Fading Fast

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 56417


When I posted this, I meant to note that this seems more real life than most pics, more like how I might look leaving the house. My not-ironed OCBDs look like his; I like my jackets to be tailored like that - neither skinny nor baggy (and traditional in length), and my not-ironed chinos often get that same annoying crease in the material over the zipper. Since we have a similar build, this guy could be me going out to run errands. I never look as put together as those Ralph Lauren ads, but much more like this guy.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Yesterday, on mute in the background, I saw part of 1961's "Splendor in the Grass." Warren Beatty wore a couple of cool Tweed items, a classic herringbone overcoat (I think it's raglan, but only saw it for a flash as I do try to do some work from time to time) and a blue-grey herringbone sport coat. While there are a ton of pictures out there for the movie, I struggled to find any on these items and came up with only one so-so pic for each. But here they are.
> View attachment 56499
> 
> View attachment 56500
> 
> It's amazing how ubiquitous herringbone Tweed was back then (and in the '50s, '40s and '30s too).


Splendor In The Grass, a great film that holds the viewers interest, long after the film has stopped running! Few or none of the movies produced these days have that effect on me.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Have put this up before, but deserves a second shot; for the subtle plaid, the lining and the mannequin-less pose. And the monogram on the bag pocket.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Splendor In The Grass, a great film that holds the viewers interest, long after the film has stopped running! Few or none of the movies produced these days have that effect on me.


Yes, agreed, this movie stays with you. It's been a long time since I've seen it, but might have to sit down the next time it's on for a true rewatch.

And while not Tweed, Beatty's wardrobe has a lot of Trad elements, like the classic gray sweatshirt that many of us grew up with as a given for athletic wear. Or his sweater vest or, later, his classic overalls.


----------



## Peak and Pine




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## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 56551


Oh, repost in British Country Clothing!


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## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 56551


Would look much better if plus fours matched.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> Oh, repost in British Country Clothing!


Will do.



EclecticSr. said:


> Would look much better if plus fours matched.


I thought so too.


----------



## challer

Fading Fast said:


> When I posted this, I meant to note that this seems more real life than most pics, more like how I might look leaving the house. My not-ironed OCBDs look like his; I like my jackets to be tailored like that - neither skinny nor baggy (and traditional in length), and my not-ironed chinos often get that same annoying crease in the material over the zipper. Since we have a similar build, this guy could be me going out to run errands. I never look as put together as those Ralph Lauren ads, but much more like this guy.


 What is the source of that jacket?


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## Fading Fast

challer said:


> What is the source of that jacket?


I'm sorry, I don't. I even did a Google Image search and couldn't find the true source. I found the pic on Pinterest, but again, it didn't have a source. I really like it though.


----------



## EclecticSr.

challer said:


> What is the source of that jacket?


They are quite easily found on many of the British websites. Cordings, House of Bruar, etc. 
Just google British shooting coats and many sites will pop up, even some ebay offerings. 
The prices range from reasonable to off the charts. Many brands, have fun.


----------



## ItalianStyle

Peak and Pine said:


> Have put this up before, but deserves a second shot; for the subtle plaid, the lining and the mannequin-less pose. And the monogram on the bag pocket.
> 
> View attachment 56505


I do like that jacket a lot, but I haven't had the need to have my name on any article of clothing since kindergarten


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## challer

EclecticSr. said:


> They are quite easily found on many of the British websites. Cordings, House of Bruar, etc.
> Just google British shooting coats and many sites will pop up, even some ebay offerings.
> The prices range from reasonable to off the charts. Many brands, have fun.


Thanks. I was looking for that specific one. I have more British tweed than will fit in a single closet


----------



## EclecticSr.

challer said:


> Thanks. I was looking for that specific one. I have more British tweed than will fit in a single closet


Join the club, amazing how we can amass clothing to the point of closets bursting.


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## Peak and Pine




----------



## Oldsarge

He's definitely in the right place since he's obviously in need of a haircut. But the zippered cardigan can go.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^^^

It seems there's a thing going on against zippered cardigans. Others here have reacted similarly. Some of my favorite makers sell these, Bean, Bauer, Deluth, Orvis. I mention those as I own zips from each. Compared to a regular cardigan, or even a shawl, zips give you an instant turtle neck. Or not. And you don't have to pull it over your head. I hate pulling things over my head. Or over anybody's head, which law enforcement continually cautions me not to do.


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## Tweedlover

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 56567


That's a fantastic jacket.


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## Fading Fast




----------



## challer

Peak and Pine said:


> ^^^
> 
> It seems there's a thing going on against zippered cardigans. Others here have reacted similarly. Some of my favorite makers sell these, Bean, Bauer, Deluth, Orvis. I mention those as I own zips from each. Compared to a regular cardigan, or even a shawl, zips give you an instant turtle neck. Or not. And you don't have to pull it over your head. I hate pulling things over my head. Or over anybody's head, which law enforcement continually cautions me not to do.


Hmm. I'm all about the zip. Followed by its cousin the quarter zip. But the full zip is such a great travel companion and versatile thing just everyday. A sweater is on or off. A zip is everything in between. The cashmere flavors from Derek Rose get a lot of service here. As does the no longer made but should design from Barbour, wind proof, waterproof inner but very nice wool exterior. I'm wearing an alpaca variant as I write. They migrate often out of my closet to hers.


----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> ^^^
> 
> It seems there's a thing going on against zippered cardigans. Others here have reacted similarly. Some of my favorite makers sell these, Bean, Bauer, Deluth, Orvis. I mention those as I own zips from each. Compared to a regular cardigan, or even a shawl, zips give you an instant turtle neck. Or not. And you don't have to pull it over your head. I hate pulling things over my head. Or over anybody's head, which law enforcement continually cautions me not to do.


Count me as a fan of zippered cardigans. I like to emulate the style of the late, great Fred Rogers, AKA: Mister Rogers. I have several, having picked up additional options during Brooks Brothers recent sales.


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## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 56628


Very nice tweed...I really like those side adjusters on the waist. Don't see many trousers with those these days.


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## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Very nice tweed...I really like those side adjusters on the waist. Don't see many trousers with those these days.


Over the years, I've only owned a few pants like that, but if I ever do MTM again, any suit pants or dress trousers will have them as I really like them.


----------



## Oldsarge

Church finally opened again so I broke out a suit. Surprise, I can still button my year-old dress shirts and my jacket and vest. It felt so good putting it on, I'm still wearing it. It has made me a greater fan of suspenders than ever. I need to buy a couple more sets. Side adjusters simply don't do it for me.


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## Fading Fast




----------



## Tweedlover

Tweed days are now behind me til fall as we've been in the 80's lately.


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## Oldsarge

We still probably have another month to go though it could be a bit longer. High today is 65º.


----------



## Troones

I’m going to miss the chill of tweed season. We’re heading into the too-warm-for-furnace-too-cold-for-a/c season. That’s bad news when you work from home, and can’t open the windows because of the construction noise of the massive condo being built right behind your property. Come back tweed season!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast

Troones said:


> I'm going to miss the chill of tweed season. We're heading into the too-warm-for-furnace-too-cold-for-a/c season. That's bad news when you work from home, and can't open the windows because of the construction noise of the massive condo being built right behind your property. Come back tweed season!


I started working from home ten years ago. It was interesting learning and adjusting to the sounds and rhythms of the day - both inside the apartment building and from the surrounding streets - versus those in and around an office building in a business district. Also, my apartment windows don't block out sounds like the office building's ones do. The worst was a renovation done in the apartment right above me - that made for a very loud several months.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 56693


A three piece in a plaid design that is that bold is a bit too much. Leave the vest back in your closet and get a suit that is properly sized and you have a winner! Just sayin.....


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## Peak and Pine

A most interesting affair...


----------



## Fading Fast

On mute in the background the other day, caught this fantastic bold herringbone Tweed coat in the 1948 movie "Fallen Idol" (saw it a long time ago, good movie is my vague memory of it). These were the best pics I could find.


----------



## David J. Cooper

I love the Tweed Shooting jacket above. I only own a few tweed items and my Shooting Jacket gets the most wear of all. In the morning to walk the dog and then almost anytime I venture out all winter long.

Is this a popular item in the US? I have never seen anyone in Vancouver but me wearing one.


----------



## Oldsarge

David J. Cooper said:


> I love the Tweed Shooting jacket above. I only own a few tweed items and my Shooting Jacket gets the most wear of all. In the morning to walk the dog and then almost anytime I venture out all winter long.
> 
> Is this a popular item in the US? I have never seen anyone in Vancouver but me wearing one.


I have several that I wear out to eat or to church on Sunday, or will, now that I am vaxxied and can leave the house.


----------



## Peak and Pine

What to wear with tweed.
Torso coverings.
Some people call them shirts.


----------



## Peak and Pine

What to wear with tweed.
Leg wraps.
Some people call them pants.


----------



## Peak and Pine

What to wear with tweed.
Big, long dorky things.
Some people call them Inverness capes.


----------



## Peak and Pine

What to wear with tweed.
Sh*t kickers.
Some people are more educated than I.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 56736


There are many good things to comment on in the rig pictured above, but that scarf is not one of them....unless of course it is a gift for his squeeze? Jeez Louise, just handling that thing could inject an unneeded shot of estrogen into a man's body! Ewww...


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> There are many good things to comment on in the rig pictured above, but that scarf is not one of them....unless of course it is a gift for his squeeze? Jeez Louise, just handling that thing could inject an unneeded shot of estrogen into a man's body! Ewww...


I like everything in the outfit but that ridiculous scarf spilling out from his pocket. I've worn outfits very close to his, sans scarf.


----------



## Tweedlover

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 56736


Yet another good example of how jeans with a marvelous topcoat go well together.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Tweedlover

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 56789


He found a jacket to match his beard.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 56794


Those Specs were clearly made to pair with that Tweed, but alas, years back I decided to experiment with the compatibility of such frames with my face and as a pair of backup glasses for my Randolph Engineering Aviators. I got a lot of chuckles from friends and family members and a few inquiries as to when I had to be back at Hogwarts. They thought I looked like an aged out Harry Potter! Glad I still had my trusted Aviators. LOL.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Those Specs were clearly made to pair with that Tweed, but alas, years back I decided to experiment with the compatibility of such frames with my face and as a pair of backup glasses for my Randolph Engineering Aviators. I got a lot of chuckles from friends and family members and a few inquiries as to when I had to be back at Hogwarts. They thought I looked like an aged out Harry Potter! Glad I still had my trusted Aviators. LOL.


I almost didn't post that pic as I thought, well, maybe it doesn't show a lot, but I like the pattern of the Tweed and, as you note, how nicely the glasses pair up with it.

As a glasses wearer for a few decades now - reading, not distance (so far) - finding the right frames for your face takes, like everything you want to do right, thought, effort, research and trial and error.

I wear very thin wire or wireless frames all in a flat sliver color, so they pretty much work with any of my outfits as the goal of my frames is to be nondescript. But if one has heavy frames with color, some thought has to be given as to how they work with one's outfit (or not, there are more important things in life).

I worked with a guy who wore heavy frames and he had a pair in black and pair in tortoise and it was very clear he chose which ones to wear on any given day based on the color palette of his outfit.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

eagle2250 said:


> Those Specs were clearly made to pair with that Tweed, but alas, years back I decided to experiment with the compatibility of such frames with my face and as a pair of backup glasses for my Randolph Engineering Aviators. I got a lot of chuckles from friends and family members and a few inquiries as to when I had to be back at Hogwarts. They thought I looked like an aged out Harry Potter! Glad I still had my trusted Aviators. LOL.


Try some clear framed P3s. They rock and are super comfortable. They would look especially fine on you.


----------



## Tweedlover

Round glasses don't look right on my face. Just had a new pair made as my prescription had changed. Now need some distance correction as opposed to my years of wearing them just to read. I wouldn't hang my glasses from a jacket pocket like that, however, as there is a great likelihood I'd forget they were there, bend over, and they'd fall to the floor.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Gurdon

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 56736


This is a pleasing example what I'm coming to think of as a current version of well dressed, including the not-traditional-male-style scarf. The only element that looks off, to me, is the leather briefcase/computer bag. But it probably works in San Francisco or New York.

Where I live -- Sonoma County, west of Highway 101 -- I feel conspicuous, albeit stylishly so, wearing a tweed or corduroy jacket. This time of year, one can dress it down by substituting a not-new black teeshirt for the OCBD and sweater.

Although I like adult briefcases, such as the Filson canvas ones that I used to take to my office, my current laptop and business-paper schlepper is a dark blue-black plastic, Patagonia computer bag that has just enough room for a lightweight laptop and my moleskine calendar book.

The un-tradly Patagonia bag clashes agreeably with a Harris or Donegal tweed coat.

Cheers,
Gurdon


----------



## Gurdon

Fading Fast said:


> I almost didn't post that pic as I thought, well, maybe it doesn't show a lot, but I like the pattern of the Tweed and, as you note, how nicely the glasses pair up with it.
> 
> As a glasses wearer for a few decades now - reading, not distance (so far) - finding the right frames for your face takes, like everything you want to do right, thought, effort, research and trial and error.
> 
> I wear very thin wire or wireless frames all in a flat sliver color, so they pretty much work with any of my outfits as the goal of my frames is to be nondescript. But if one has heavy frames with color, some thought has to be given as to how they work with one's outfit (or not, there are more important things in life).
> 
> I worked with a guy who wore heavy frames and he had a pair in black and pair in tortoise and it was very clear he chose which ones to wear on any given day based on the color palette of his outfit.





Tweedlover said:


> Round glasses don't look right on my face. Just had a new pair made as my prescription had changed. Now need some distance correction as opposed to my years of wearing them just to read. I wouldn't hang my glasses from a jacket pocket like that, however, as there is a great likelihood I'd forget they were there, bend over, and they'd fall to the floor.


----------



## Fading Fast

Gurdon said:


> This is a pleasing example what I'm coming to think of as a current version of well dressed, including the not-traditional-male-style scarf. The only element that looks off, to me, is the leather briefcase/computer bag. But it probably works in San Francisco or New York.
> 
> Where I live -- Sonoma County, west of Highway 101 -- I feel conspicuous, albeit stylishly so, wearing a tweed or corduroy jacket. This time of year, one can dress it down by substituting a not-new black teeshirt for the OCBD and sweater.
> 
> Although I like adult briefcases, such as the Filson canvas ones that I used to take to my office, my current laptop and business-paper schlepper is a dark blue-black plastic, Patagonia computer bag that has just enough room for a lightweight laptop and my moleskine calendar book.
> 
> The un-tradly Patagonia bag clashes agreeably with a Harris or Donegal tweed coat.
> 
> Cheers,
> Gurdon


This has been my favorite pic and outfit in this thread for awhile. I have a coat just like that, but in the gray not brown family, and have worn almost that exact outfit as, to your point, it is considered "nicely" dressed by today's standards but not dated or too "overdressed."


----------



## Fading Fast

And, based on that ⇧, might as well post a couple of pics of my coat from the Magee site (m-12386.aspx). Click on the link for more pics and coat details.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> And, based on that ⇧, might as well post a couple of pics of my coat from the Magee site (m-12386.aspx). Click on the link for more pics and coat details.
> View attachment 56840
> View attachment 56841


"A very, very nice coat, for sure!" I would be tempted to make one of those my very own, but down here that would be a proverbial 100 year garment.....one to be worn once every 100 years. LOL.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> "A very, very nice coat, for sure!" I would be tempted to make one of those my very own, but down here that would be a proverbial 100 year garment.....one to be worn once every 100 years. LOL.


I understand that. I love mine. It's been my favorite purchase in recent years (not that I buy that many clothes anymore). I looked for years for the "right" raglan sleeve, gray, Tweed herringbone until I found this one which is pretty darn close to exactly what I wanted.


----------



## Tweedlover

TKI67 said:


> Try some clear framed P3s. They rock and are super comfortable. They would look especially fine on you.


The pair of glasses I recently picked up are a departure from my pattern of picking up traditional frames-oval wire rims or Ray Ban clubmaster-type with tortoise shell. I picked up a rectangular translucent frame with a light gray tint. Stems are black in the front half of the stem and gray in the back half with a thin red dividing line between.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 56865


A Dorm mate back at PSU's University Park campus, way back when, had a Tweed sport coat with that very fabric pattern or one pretty darned close to it. A great looking coat, for sure!


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> A Dorm mate back at PSU's University Park campus, way back when, had a Tweed sport coat with that very fabric pattern or one pretty darned close to it. A great looking coat, for sure!


It's a beautiful pattern and coat. I also like the tie a lot; it has a cool '40s-'50s vintage vibe. The shirt's nice too, but I wouldn't pair it with that jacket.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> It's a beautiful pattern and coat. I also like the tie a lot; it has a cool '40s-'50s vintage vibe. The shirt's nice too, but I wouldn't pair it with that jacket.


Oh, I would in a heartbeat. But it will have to wait for the coming autumn. This weekend's high's are predicted to be around 85º.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 56877


Those Tweeds, the jacket...the vest....and the Ivy cap, are magnificent, every thread of them! I do wish we had more of a cool/cold season down here.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 56877


I have a similar coat. Obviously I need to go looking for a matching cap.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> I have a similar coat. Obviously I need to go looking for a matching cap.


Thought of you when I saw this one.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 56886


The fabric pattern and Ragland sleeves are what this very handsome coat is all about. The belted waist and sleeves are also desireable features on an adverse weather coat.Nice design, for sure.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 56901


The fabric pattern of that jacket really catches my eye and steals my sartorial heart. The orange tie struggles mightily to make a connection with the muted orange striping in the jackets fabric, but someone should have hit that tie with a much needed pressing before knotting it around the throat of that 'dressing dummy/mannequin!' However, I still quite like that jacket.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 56901


The fabric pattern of that jacket really catches my eye and steals my sartorial heart. The orange tie struggles mightily to make a connection with the muted orange striping in the jackets fabric, but someone should have hit that tie with a much needed pressing before knotting it around the throat of that 'dressing dummy/mannequin!' However, I still quite like that jacket.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> The fabric pattern of that jacket really catches my eye and steals my sartorial heart. The orange tie struggles mightily to make a connection with the muted orange striping in the jackets fabric, but someone should have hit that tie with a much needed pressing before knotting it around the throat of that 'dressing dummy/mannequin!' However, I still quite like that jacket.


I felt the exact same way. The jacket says @upr_crust to me (and it's a compliment to say something could make it into his incredible wardrobe). He would do a better job of choosing a tie for it too.


----------



## Tweedlover

eagle2250 said:


> The fabric pattern of that jacket really catches my eye and steals my sartorial heart. The orange tie struggles mightily to make a connection with the muted orange striping in the jackets fabric, but someone should have hit that tie with a much needed pressing before knotting it around the throat of that 'dressing dummy/mannequin!' However, I still quite like that jacket.


Yeah, the tie just doesn't quite go with the jacket. But, love the jacket.


----------



## vonSuess

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 56901
> 
> 
> Now, I really like this coat, although I'm not sure where I could wear it that it wouldn't seem a bit loud...


----------



## Fading Fast

vonSuess said:


> Now, I really like this coat, although I'm not sure where I could wear it that it wouldn't seem a bit loud...


For my style, it's too much, but we have members like @upr_crust who rock looks like this. I love what he and others do even if, like you, it's not something I do in my wardrobe.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 57041


They work so very well together, absent the pocket square. I do occasionally wear a pocket square with a dress suit, but never with a Tweed. The casual nature of the Tweed and the dressiness of the pocket square just seem to clash (in my eyes).


----------



## Oldsarge

eagle2250 said:


> They work so very well together, absent the pocket square. I do occasionally wear a pocket square with a dress suit, but never with a Tweed. The casual nature of the Tweed and the dressiness of the pocket square just seem to clash (in my eyes).


I would agree with that to a point. However, a subdued linen or wool PS seems perfectly apt, to me.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 57067


The Peacoat is rather nice and the earth tones work much better than I would have thought they would. However the red, white and black shepherd's check fabric of the other coat is just not my cup of tea.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 57125


I respect the attention to detail on the gigline and I do love the trousers. Add a belt or braces and you have a winner! I just can't wear pants with belt loops and not wear a belt...force of habit, I guess?


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

eagle2250 said:


> I respect the attention to detail on the gigline and I do love the trousers. Add a belt or braces and you have a winner! I just can't wear pants with belt loops and not wear a belt...force of habit, I guess?


I note that many pants come with buttons for suspenders, yet I never feel compelled to use suspenders or remove the buttons. So eventually the buttons become never used plastic in a landfill or the ocean. I may suggest to my favorite stores to make them optional.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 57174


That is a great looking Tweed jacket, but he really should rub a bit of Bag Balm into those hands. LOL.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 57184


I know it was posted for the cloth but having a tunneled waistband to accommodate the elastic side adjusters is bulky enough. putting belt loops on top of that would probably cause you to size up your belt. I wear suspenders with trousers like that. It's a hefty cloth and suspenders would keep the trousers from sagging.


----------



## Fading Fast

EclecticSr. said:


> I know it was posted for the cloth but having a tunneled waistband to accommodate the elastic side adjusters is bulky enough. putting belt loops on top of that would probably cause you to size up your belt. I wear suspenders with trousers like that. It's a hefty cloth and suspenders would keep the trousers from sagging.


Agree completely, that's a lot of material for the belt to get over. But also, the beauty of side tabs is they eliminate the need for a belt and give the waist line a cleaner look; putting on belt loops undoes that.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 57199


That is potentially one very desirable Tweed Jacket. The braces work incredibly well with the fabric pattern of the jacket and the ties color and hand also add to the rigs appeal, but the wearer should put a bit more attention into properly tying the tie!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Tweedlover

eagle2250 said:


> That is potentially one very desirable Tweed Jacket. The braces work incredibly well with the fabric pattern of the jacket and the ties color and hand also add to the rigs appeal, but the wearer should put a bit more attention into properly tying the tie!


Agree about the tie lengths. Don't know if it was intentional or not, but have seen many pics of folks intentionally tying it so that the back blade hangs a bit below the front. Doesn't look right that way to me.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 57232


A handsome rig, for sure, and surprisingly in this instance, the pocket square actually interests me. Based on it's design, the square potentially represents an ecological interest and I support that idea. :icon_scratch:


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 57232


Pretty sure I have that jacket, ties very similar and a collection of squares up the whazoo.
I would have chose a different pattern shirt and color.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Tweedlover

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 57067


While the coat is nice on the left, the guy's trousers need to be a tad longer.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Tweedlover

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 57257


Jacket's nice but the shirt with its stripes and color doesn't go with it. Nor the tie.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Tweedlover said:


> Jacket's nice but the shirt with its stripes and color doesn't go with it. Nor the tie.


I think he tied that string through the button hole to remind him of that.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## challer

Is it me or is that jacket three sizes too small?


----------



## EclecticSr.

challer said:


> Is it me or is that jacket three sizes too small?


It's not you, I don't know what the fascination is these days with what some think is a good look, to stuff themselves into a suit/ odd jacket , the result, turning out looking like sausage.

Add to that trousers that hug the calves in both dress and casual making your feet look twice their size and are as appealing as warts.

Trouser length, what we once called high water . See warts above.

One other gripe, tie knots. It seems some have come up with new knots though yet to be named. 
I vote for sloppy misshapen resembling something sloppy and misshapen. perhaps they never had any classic sartorial influences. Then there is the footballers knot.

Ever notice how shirt makers keep cutting back on collar size, ( band width ) leaves that barely extend past tie knot let alone reach jacket lapel? Tie knots that are never moved up to fill the gap at the buttoning point?

The above sausage looks worn with some white soled sneakers or whatever their called. 
I'm talking with suits, though not exclusively. .

There are trend followers regardless the look and then there are smart dressers who accept certain evolutions of style but never stray too far from classic/smart into clownish. We hat wearers are often accused of being clownish. You wanna take a second look at " clownish" ?


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

challer said:


> Is it me or is that jacket three sizes too small?


Your eyes are serving you well, my friend...that jacket does not fit! It would be interesting to watch him try to button that jacket.


Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 57317


The model looks just like Thomas Middleditch, the actor who plays Drew, the main character in the B Positive TV series. Is he? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Oldsarge

Dunno. Never watched it,


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 57342


The fabric pattern is nice and and I really like the lower pocket design(s), but the chest pockets appear decidedly out of alignment and in terms of working with the lower pockets, they just don't. I'm not sure what I'm looking at with respect to the garment's fastening arrangements? :crazy:


----------



## Oldsarge

Yes, the fabric is fine but this attempt to make it into a barn coat or something is a failure.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

Very professorial


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 57387


That 'Jame's dress form' (male version of the "Judy Dress form" described in wikipedia), really ties a fine knot in his neck wear, but I find myself left wondering what that square blue lapel pin is advertising? The university stripped shirt is a winner, but the jacket troubles me. Is the fabric pattern just too bold to work with the shirt? I suspect so, but in reality that fabric pattern is just too rubish (meaning like a rube) in a sport coat to work in my eye(s). However, it would make for a great barn coat!


----------



## StephenRG

eagle2250 said:


> but the jacket troubles me. Is the fabric pattern just too bold to work with the shirt? I suspect so, but in reality that fabric pattern is just too rubish (meaning like a rube) in a sport coat to work in my eye(s). However, it would make for a great barn coat!


FWIW to my eyes the fabric looks like linen, though I've never seen a linen in that pattern before.


----------



## Fading Fast

StephenRG said:


> FWIW to my eyes the fabric looks like linen, though I've never seen a linen in that pattern before.


MIght be, I see what you mean. I found it on Pinterest, but there was no description.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## ran23

I took my Corbin Grey Herringbone in to be 'let out' about 1-1.5". 38->39


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 57500


Drool . . .


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

That's 'like' with caveat that the cloth in the trousers isn't really appropriate.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast

Cross-post with the Ralph thread.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Cross-post with the Ralph thread.
> View attachment 57564


Two parts of what I would guess is a very handsome three piece suit. Were it me, I wouldn't break up the set. LOL.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Two parts of what I would guess is a very handsome three piece suit. Were it me, I wouldn't break up the set. LOL.


I had the exact same thought - that must be a heck of a suit. Even though I have all but no reason to buy it, if it was in my size and on a, say, 30% off sale as you often can get at Ralph, I'd buy it today.


----------



## StephenRG

Fading Fast said:


> Even though I have all but no reason to buy it,


You need to redefine "reason", I think


----------



## David J. Cooper

Is there pants, or would you go with the denim?


----------



## Peak and Pine

Doubt this was ever a three-piece. Suede elbow patches, bellows pockets and throat latch are seldom found on a full suit. But they are on jackets meant to be worn where grass grows. And denim makes a good tough pant pairing when grass gives way to brush.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## challer

Fading Fast said:


> Cross-post with the Ralph thread.
> View attachment 57564


Having been to this store many times, I can say marvelous stuff. But prices that surpass the cost of airfare to London and commissioning bespoke. My SO once found stunning, just leather, $7,000 shoes there.


----------



## Fading Fast

challer said:


> Having been to this store many times, I can say marvelous stuff. But prices that surpass the cost of airfare to London and commissioning bespoke. My SO once found stunning, just leather, $7,000 shoes there.


I live a few blocks from the NYC flagship store and, I agree, many of the items, especially, in the Purple Label line are crazy expensive. The Double RL items are also pretty darn expensive. I assume the $7000 shoes were, as you noted, in the women's store as that number, other than for alligator, sounds high for men's shoes even Purple Label.

But the Blue Label (I think it is/was also called the "Polo" line) is expensive but not crazy so. I usually wait (or waited, as I just don't need biz clothes anymore) for the "end of season" sale or the one or two "friends and family" events Polo would run a season where you could buy the Blue Label stuff 30% off, which, IMO, was reasonable value - expensive, but for very good quality.

For example, a Blue label suit 30% off would be between $1000-$1400. Yes, not inexpensive, but I found over the years they were very-well made, felt good on, held up for many years and, prompted a lot of compliments versus my other suits which means they must look better to other people.

To be sure, as you said, the high-end stuff is very expensive and way out of my league, but with some effort, the "regular" line offers good value for clothes in its price range, especially on one of the not-that-hard-to-get 30%-off sales.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> I live a few blocks from the NYC flagship store and, I agree, many of the items, especially, in the Purple Label line are crazy expensive. The Double RL items are also pretty darn expensive. I assume the $7000 shoes were, as you noted, in the women's store as that number, other than for alligator, sounds high for men's shoes even Purple Label.
> 
> But the Blue Label (I think it is/was also called the "Polo" line) is expensive but not crazy so. I usually wait (or waited, as I just don't need biz clothes anymore) for the "end of season" sale or the one or two "friends and family" events Polo would run a season where you could buy the Blue Label stuff 30% off, which, IMO, was reasonable value - expensive, but for very good quality.
> 
> For example, a Blue label suit 30% off would be between $1000-$1400. Yes, not inexpensive, but I found over the years they were very-well made, felt good on, held up for many years and, prompted a lot of compliments versus my other suits which means they must look better to other people.
> 
> To be sure, as you said, the high-end stuff is very expensive and way out of my league, but with some effort, the "regular" line offers good value for clothes in its price range, especially on one of the not-that-hard-to-get 30%-off sales.


Indeed, but like you I have no use for biz clothes for the foreseeable future so I just admire from a distance. Sort of like vintage sports cars.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 57632


Those appear to be a very heavy, but questionably practical pair of Tweed trousers for many of us. Egad, just looking at them, I fear my nether regions just broke into a spontaneous sweat. :crazy:


----------



## Peak and Pine

eagle2250 said:


> Those appear to be a very heavy... egad, just looking at them, I fear my nether regions just broke into a spontaneous sweat. :crazy:


Much too early to hear about your nethers. A late night topic if at all and I'll be wearing ear plugs.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Those appear to be a very heavy, but questionably practical pair of Tweed trousers for many of us. Egad, just looking at them, I fear my nether regions just broke into a spontaneous sweat. :crazy:


Living in the Northeast, I always liked to have a few very heavy suits, trousers, etc. for either those insanely cold days or just normal cold days when you knew you'd be outside a bunch. That said, if you ended up spending too-much time in an over-heated office with them on, the concern you note became real - sigh.

In particular, when I commuted at the start of my career from an elevated station platform, there were all but no suits or trousers or overcoats really heavy enough when a cold January breeze blasted through (especially if the train was late).


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 57643


I've always rather liked shooting jacket designs and the one pictured above is no exception. Those suede elbow patches are perfect and the gun patch on the right shoulder would broadcast added appeal if it were lightly padded, with quilt stitching to give it that added shot of realism. That is a very nice jacket!


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> I've always rather liked shooting jacket designs and the one pictured above is no exception. Those suede elbow patches are perfect and the gun patch on the right shoulder would broadcast added appeal if it were lightly padded, with quilt stitching to give it that added shot of realism. That is a very nice jacket!


@Oldsarge, over the years, has turned me on to them too. I enjoy seeing them, but wouldn't have a use for one and can't see wearing one in my day to day as it would look odd. But if I had a reason to wear one, I'd love to get one.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 57647


Now that is the real deal. It fairly cries out for a peg, a loader and a London double.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 57679


A great design...classic men's style and blue is a favorite color of mine. However in this instance, I think that jacket would look it's best in a green/brown heather hue....indeed, it would be arguably perfect.


----------



## challer

Farlows or Cordings? These more subdued but very functional action back shooting jackets have great utility in the fields and around town (with khaki, denim, whipcord, cords, etc.). My observation is that many of us baby our sporting clothing too much. You don't really appreciate what it is about until you taken it off the beaten path.


----------



## EclecticSr.

challer said:


> Farlows or Cordings? These more subdued but very functional action back shooting jackets have great utility in the fields and around town (with khaki, denim, whipcord, cords, etc.). My observation is that many of us baby our sporting clothing too much. You don't really appreciate what it is about until you taken it off the beaten path.
> 
> View attachment 57682
> View attachment 57683


Two of my favorite U.K. shops. I just today ordered 2 tattersall shirts from Farlows. I have more action back jackets that I'll ever need.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## EclecticSr.

^^^^^^ Samantha's father.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 57735


Now which is my first choice...the magnificent Tweed coat or the girl...:icon_scratch::icon_scratch::icon_scratch:.....who am I kidding, it's the girl...in a heartbeat! LOL.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Now which is my first choice...the magnificent Tweed coat or the girl...:icon_scratch::icon_scratch::icon_scratch:.....who am I kidding, it's the girl...in a heartbeat! LOL.


I was disappointed in your first two clauses, but you recovered nicely in the third, fourth and fifth. Always choose the girl. 

And "the girl" here is Elizabeth Allen, one of my favorite actresses of the '30s. She had a reasonably successful career back then, but is all but forgotten today.

I wrote about one of her movies here  #506  and, funny, commented on her in particular.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 57778


I really didn't think I would miss the 'really' cold weather when we moved south, but then I keep looking at these fantastic examples of the Tweed arts you fellows keep posting in these threads and I do indeed miss and,yes' even wish for an extended cold snap. Please don't mistake this post for some the grass is always greener whining, but rather some "let it snow, let it snow, let it snow" wishful thinking!


----------



## EclecticSr.

One of the reasons I could never move South, what would I do with 3/4's of my wardrobe, not to mention I break out in a rash when the weather forecast is to reach above 75 deg F.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> I really didn't think I would miss the 'really' cold weather when we moved south, but then I keep looking at these fantastic examples of the Tweed arts you fellows keep posting in these threads and I do indeed miss and,yes' even wish for an extended cold snap. Please don't mistake this post for some the grass is always greener whining, but rather some "let it snow, let it snow, let it snow" wishful thinking!


I have only lived in the "four seasons" Northeast and I love it. Sure, I grumble a bit during the coldest snap in the winter and longest heat wave in the summer, but I wouldn't trade it for anything. I look forward to each season as it comes and enjoy them all with the few noted grumbles.


----------



## ran23

I relocated to the PNW and now experience all four seasons. Love it except the hot 112 summers.


----------



## Oldsarge

ran23 said:


> I relocated to the PNW and now experience all four seasons. Love it except the hot 112 summers.


Same here though I do find the occasional ice storms a bit annoying.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

^^^
Ugh.

Second to no one, me, in the like of outdoor tweed all strapped and buckled up; however, would prefer to see it on a mannequin even, compared to the inglorious sight of my faves being worn by this couple, grandchildren of the Third Reich.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 57793


An impressive job of pattern matching, for sure!


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> An impressive job of pattern matching, for sure!


I like the Fair Isle with the sport coat a lot. I'd have gone with a solid shirt, but as you note, the shirt does work if a lot of patterns is your thing.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

^^
You posted that last week, #5549.
Still a nice jacket though.

Below, something new, a rack of tweed outdoor shirts. Yum, yum, gimme some.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Peak and Pine said:


> ^^
> You posted that last week, #5549.
> Still a nice jacket though.
> 
> Below, something new, a rack of tweed outdoor shirts. Yum, yum, gimme some.
> 
> View attachment 57838


Do I spy an extra button hole placed at an angle, perhaps to accommodate a watch fob?


----------



## challer

Peak and Pine said:


> ^^
> You posted that last week, #5549.
> Still a nice jacket though.
> 
> Below, something new, a rack of tweed outdoor shirts. Yum, yum, gimme some.
> 
> View attachment 57838


I'd be interested in the source


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

Screen shot of an on-line listing of a vintage Burton jacket. Made and sold in Britain. To be worn in Maine when it gets here. Shipping via the Queen Mary maybe. Won't need until fall. Plenty of time to hang on an oak limb and blow off the English accent.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 57880


I do so love the great coat and the canary yellow cardigan beneath it. The button down collared shirt and the tie are verging on fantastic. Jeez Louise, I think I like this whole darned rig. Well done, sir, whomever you may be! Oh wait, the gentleman pictured above has either lost his head...or here I sit, typing a love letter to a mannequin! That just can't be good? :crazy:


----------



## Peak and Pine

Correction.
Yesterday a British tweed was posted here. Proudly, because I'd just bought it. Er, wrong jacket. You see, I was going back and forth on-line between three vintage jackets, all British, made a decision, bought one, then disremembered which was which and posted the wrong one. This is the right one, yes in sick room green...










I believe it's more brown than shown, based on seller's close-ups. Better be.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> I do so love the great coat and the canary yellow cardigan beneath it. The button down collared shirt and the tie are verging on fantastic. Jeez Louise, I think I like this whole darned rig. Well done, sir, whomever you may be! Oh wait, the gentleman pictured above has either lost his head...or here I sit, typing a love letter to a mannequin! That just can't be good? :crazy:


 I really liked this one too. The outfit comes together beautifully.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

If by _come together beautifully_ you're referring to everything that got tossed on the manniquin, okay I suppose, but - - and I may be the only one here who buys into this because basically I made it up - - an outer coat need not coordinate with anything beneath. When buttoned it covers everything, when unbuttoned, which it shouldn't be or why wear a coat, the little beneath that peeks through is of such a different nature and the coat is such a temporary adornment, that a worry over coordination parallels matching suit cloth with the sofa upholstery upon which you briefly sit. Maybe coordinate a coat with hat or cap since they're both outside gear, but there it ends. So that leaves no jacket, a chunky knit tie with a thin-knit, too-bright, mucho-unbuttoned cardigan and some gray pants. Passable, but uninspired.


----------



## Peak and Pine

So, if you've read up stream a couple of posts, you'll know that I conducted a criminal act and posted a pic of my new old English jacket that was never meant to be. Then you saw the seller's pic of the one that was meant to be. This foray into eeny meeny miny moe'dom was three nights ago and since the proper choice was English, but not coming from England but from New England, it arrived this afternoon. And during transit it turned from sick room green to the brown I hoped. This would be it...


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Tweedlover

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 57880


Love everything about this including the whangee umbrella.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 57940


Exceptional!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 57940


Just glorious!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Exceptional!


Hi, great to see you posting, you've been missed.


----------



## ItalianStyle

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 57981


Hmmm... so he decided to unbutton his button-down collar and tie the whole thing together with something that resembles a safety pin...?
That's about as classy as repairing your glasses with a band-aid...

Nice colors though...


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Hi, great to see you posting, you've been missed.


Thank you, Sir!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 58108


 Nice!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

When you're outta tweed, and even if you're not...










...and while I am not big on reverse pleats compared to forwards, uneven tie blades, thick striped shirts or no belt, I find zero amiss with the above and am picturing a 70s+ in that, paste a star on my forehead for she be certainly age appropriate, all that. (Note the shirt sleeve cuffs and draw string waist. I have, and will search that out.)


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

The closest I will be getting to tweed until some day near Thanksgiving will be a heather grey tee shirt. It has begun. The temperature did not fall below seventy degrees Farenheit last night. No, it was not a dry heat. We had a light predawn rain.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 58170


Magnificent in so many ways!

A beautiful tweed, and wonderful pairings. Both complex and subtle. An excellent example of how 3 patterns can be paired, including a plaid on check.


----------



## never behind

Never a bad time to buy tweed! Grabbed this light brown/tan Ben Silver tweed off eBay. A 3/2 roll but darted, so half Trad.  Now just waiting for fall.


----------



## Flanderian

never behind said:


> Never a bad time to buy tweed! Grabbed this light brown/tan Ben Silver tweed off eBay. A 3/2 roll but darted, so half Trad.  Now just waiting for fall.
> 
> View attachment 58185
> View attachment 58186


If not Trad, still entirely traditional, and a great looking jacket!


----------



## Peak and Pine

never behind said:


> Never a bad time to buy tweed!












Is this your usual size, shoulders appear to be drooping past your actual ones. Could be just the pic angle as the (screen) left looks okay. This can't be remedied (without big $s) and doesn't necessarily look bad, but you might want to measure a jacket that fits well and use that measurement to compare to whatever the seller gives on future purchases. A quarter inch can mean a lot in tailoring, especially when near the face.

Because you want the sack look, you don't have to be as careful with measurements as sack can translate to slouch. _Carefree_ to those who like it, _careless_ if you don't. The sleeves are slightly long, but passable, the front quarters are tight, you could put a zipper down there, but that's a matter of preference and I like closed quarters, but not lengthy sleeves.

You have purchased a very basic tweed, both in cut and cloth and if you had no tweeds prior then this is a good choice. In the main it appears to fit well. Tweed doesn't wrinkle easily, but once it does it must be pressed out, so get to work on those lapels. I've darkened the picture slightly to show how the creases show in subdued light.

Hope you don't mind the observations. It's the sort of thing I welcome when posting a pic, which BTW I did, a few posts up in this same thread, the first one in two years, but no comments followed.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## never behind

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 58216
> 
> 
> Is this your usual size, shoulders appear to be drooping past your actual ones. Could be just the pic angle as the (screen) left looks okay. This can't be remedied (without big $s) and doesn't necessarily look bad, but you might want to measure a jacket that fits well and use that measurement to compare to whatever the seller gives on future purchases. A quarter inch can mean a lot in tailoring, especially when near the face.
> 
> Because you want the sack look, you don't have to be as careful with measurements as sack can translate to slouch. _Carefree_ to those who like it, _careless_ if you don't. The sleeves are slightly long, but passable, the front quarters are tight, you could put a zipper down there, but that's a matter of preference and I like closed quarters, but not lengthy sleeves.
> 
> You have purchased a very basic tweed, both in cut and cloth and if you had no tweeds prior then this is a good choice. In the main it appears to fit well. Tweed doesn't wrinkle easily, but once it does it must be pressed out, so get to work on those lapels. I've darkened the picture slightly to show how the creases show in subdued light.
> 
> Hope you don't mind the observations. It's the sort of thing I welcome when posting a pic, which BTW I did, a few posts up in this same thread, the first one in two years, but no comments followed.


I welcome the observations. I am only a few years into learning the sartorial world, so comments do help me learn and notice things I haven't seen before. Also helps me know where I stand on my pre-purchase check list, too.

The sleeves are borderline; I need to wear it with a OCBD to see if I need to shorten them or not. I don't have a strong preference on the quarter, but I would say almost all of my jackets are fairly closed. This is only my 3rd tweed jacket (grey herringbone and an olive/brown herringbone with a windowpane), so trying to build out some basics. I have two more basics (olive and blue) I want before branching out to bolder patterns. Of course, as long as SWMBO doesn't intervene. 

The yoke measurement is on the wide range of jackets I own. My issue is my right shoulder droops slightly, so jackets can fit perfectly on the left, but have a slight "problem" on the right. I do need to press it, since I literally pulled it out of the box and put it on. I'll have to see after that if the right shoulder is acceptable. I have found natural shoulders work better on me and this tweed does have moderate padding.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 58217


Nice!


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Peak and Pine

All of the last five posts, as you may have noticed and if not I'm dragging your eyeballs with me here, are worn with navy pants, navy turtleneck and navy square forming a single color background and a not very exciting one, purposely allowing the jacket to shine solo and not as just another part of a clothing jumble like so many of the outfits surfed for this thread. Each pairing is four cloths, two colors and one pattern. I'm liking all five with the posible exception of the blue, less moody if the accompanying pieces were a shade of something besides blue. Whatever, I'm in. Sign me up for a five pack.


----------



## ItalianStyle

Since all 5 are clearly 'digitally' colored, I wonder how close they come to their real color...?
I've always been a bit skeptical when vendors are not using real photos...


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## never behind

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 58256


Is that a Mackintosh? Also are those buttons on the side closing pockets? My eyes think they see a pocket but the pattern is making it hard on me.


----------



## Fading Fast

never behind said:


> Is that a Mackintosh? Also are those buttons on the side closing pockets? My eyes think they see a pocket but the pattern is making it hard on me.


I think of a Mackintosh as a rain coat, so not sure what you mean.

It does look to me like those are pockets with a button closure, but as you note, it's hard to see in the pic I posted. However, in another pic at the link below, it's clear that's what they are.

Here's the link to it https://www.cordings.co.uk/bark-herringbone-donegal-follifoot-coat.html


----------



## never behind

Fading Fast said:


> I think of a Mackintosh as a rain coat, so not sure what you mean.
> 
> It does look to me like those are pockets with a button closure, but as you note, it's hard to see in the pic I posted. However, in another pic at the link below, it's clear that's what they are.
> 
> Here's the link to it https://www.cordings.co.uk/bark-herringbone-donegal-follifoot-coat.html


I was thinking Mackintosh from the style vs function. Honestly I've been trying to sort out the traditional coat styles, so I was seeing if I could figure this one out.


----------



## Fading Fast

never behind said:


> I was thinking Mackintosh from the style vs function. Honestly I've been trying to sort out the traditional coat styles, so I was seeing if I could figure this one out.


I think of this style and have heard it referred to as a raglan overcoat, but I think "balmaccan" is the more specific term. But I could be wrong.

It's time for the @Matt S Bat Signal as he'll know.


----------



## never behind

I think you are correct. I found this nice tweed in an article about balmacaans on DieWorkwear.


----------



## Acct2000

What a perfect day for this thread to come back up. We're freezing in Michigan today!!! (Not literally, but close enough - - - )


----------



## Matt S

Fading Fast said:


> I think of this style and have heard it referred to as a raglan overcoat, but I think "balmaccan" is the more specific term. But I could be wrong.
> 
> It's time for the @Matt S Bat Signal as he'll know.
> View attachment 58270


Yes, that's a classic balmacaan.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

Most won't like that. I don't care.


----------



## Fading Fast

A little classic Hollywood Tweed for a Sunday. 








Men really used to dress.








I couldn't find a full-length shot of the coat (and, again, men really used to dress).


----------



## Oldsarge

Edward G. was one of the sharpest.


----------



## Fading Fast

Some fun ones.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 58473


That is a very handsome Tweed coat. Prior to moving to the deep south, I used to have that coat (onr one just like it), but is was of a more dark wheat or light brown hue. Alas, my coat made that one way trip to the Goodwill Store in Valparaiso, IN..


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

^^
Jacket and sleeves too short. 3-roll-2 and skinny sleeves at odds with this type of jacket. Pass.

Below, soft tweed brownish h'bone with muted window pane, baby blue shirt and teal vee neck. Likeable. Good fit and worn well. And you get to see the whole person. The zoom-ins often posted here are less than helpful, no context.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 58566


Not normally a fan of patchwork designs, but the jacket above looks reasonably attractive. Perhaps the muted collisions between the competing fabric patterns makes the difference. The pale blue shirt paired with said jacket, further softens the effect. I think I just might like this one.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Not normally a fan of patchwork designs, but the jacket above looks reasonably attractive. Perhaps the muted collisions between the competing fabric patterns makes the difference. The pale blue shirt paired with said jacket, further softens the effect. I think I just might like this one.


I had a similar view. Had someone told me about the jacket, I would have thought I'd hate it, but I think it works. Still not something I'd buy, but it looks kinda good if it's your thing.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 58566


Nice! Very reminiscent of the jackets Chipp once did.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Nice! Very reminiscent of the jackets Chipp once did.


I agree. As noted above, still not my thing, but for what it is, it is really well done. And who knows, if we lived in a 1950s world of men regularly wearing sport coats, I might like it as an occasional fun item, but in todays world, my boring grey herringbone gets more attention than I like.

The scarf with it in the pic is, IMO, not good as that outfit does not need another bold pattern.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I agree. As noted above, still not my thing, but for what it is, it is really well done. And who knows, if we lived in a 1950s world of men regularly wearing sport coats, I might like it as an occasional fun item, but in todays world, my boring grey herringbone gets more attention than I like.
> 
> The scarf with it in the pic is, IMO, not good as that outfit does not need another bold pattern.


I first purchased from Chipp in the early '70's when I became familiar with their shop through their ads in _The New Yorker._ These patchwork tweeds were the winter version of their patchwork madras plaid summer jackets. I don't know for certain that Chipp initiated this mode, but it's certainly consistent with their outlook and aesthetic of the era.

There are already so many patterns in the jacket, I don't know that one more in the scarf matters. But nice scarf, anyway!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

Yeah. But don't care for this style jacket worn Dean Martin style. Too much cleavage. Buttoning up one more button would also reduce the elephant ear lapels. Nice cloth and colors, fox head tie and t'sall shirt. All's good, almost.

See the effect of a full buttoning Norfolk here...










If you're on a cell like me put your thumb over the ascot and you've got nothing, maybe mufti for a WWI vet who can't get used to being out of uniform. So the ascot makes this technicolor and while it's thought you shouldn't wear shiny silk with rough country tweed, scrap that, it's the spark this drab'ster needs otherwise the jacket's automatically camo right at home on the forest floor, oops I almost tripped on that loose sod, wait a minute, that's not sod, somebody's lost a jacket.
.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 58584


Great tweed, nice cut!


----------



## Fading Fast

Odds and ends.






















⇧⇩ Doc Martin Harris Tweeds.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Odds and ends.
> View attachment 58632
> View attachment 58633
> View attachment 58634
> 
> ⇧⇩ Doc Martin Harris Tweeds.
> View attachment 58635


That first picture is particularly tantalizing, making us want to see more details of each of the garments involved. The competing fabric patterns do work well together.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Odds and ends.
> View attachment 58632
> View attachment 58633
> View attachment 58634
> 
> ⇧⇩ Doc Martin Harris Tweeds.
> View attachment 58635


Top two are wonderful, the bottom two not to my taste.


----------



## Flanderian

Linen tweed?


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ That's a beautiful suit. I like the entire outfit.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ That's a beautiful suit. I like the entire outfit.
> 
> View attachment 58674


Real nice coat, but I wouldn't pair that hue with those trousers. However, being an overcoat, does it matter? Perhaps khaki hued or grey trousers would be better options?


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Real nice coat, but I wouldn't pair that hue with those trousers. However, being an overcoat, does it matter? Perhaps khaki hued or grey trousers would be better options?


I think you answered your own question - an overcoat doesn't need to pair to the underlying outfit. That said, when I finally acquired a few different overcoats in middle age, I did, at least, think about what I was wearing when I chose the overcoat for the day.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ That's a beautiful suit. I like the entire outfit.
> 
> View attachment 58674


Very nice coat! Cut looks a bit Press-ish.

Makes me nostalgic for my grey tweed herringbone HSM DB from 50 years ago. Only slightly afflicted with the '70's aesthetic, I think it had a sewn belt in back and more than a bit of panache, and it was *WARM!*


----------



## ran23

Summer is not here, and I am wishing for Autumn again.


----------



## Troones

Fading Fast said:


> I agree. As noted above, still not my thing, but for what it is, it is really well done. And who knows, if we lived in a 1950s world of men regularly wearing sport coats, I might like it as an occasional fun item, but in todays world, my boring grey herringbone gets more attention than I like.
> 
> The scarf with it in the pic is, IMO, not good as that outfit does not need another bold pattern.


I agree with the points made that this sort of jacket would draw extraordinary attention in this day and age, and that it would be a fun alternative jacket for a Friday in the 50s. I'm an introvert and prefer to blend in, so I can't wear these types of bold patterns.

However, this is really nice! I wish we did still have enough men running around in suits, sport coats, etc., that this would not be too unusual. J Press' website currently has a couple of patchwork tweeds on offer. I've been tempted, but realize the lack of wear they would get.


----------



## Prisoner of Zendaline

Tweed's been on my mind, too. My two favorite sport coats, were* double-breasted* grey tweed. The first was a somewhat rough, Harris-type herringbone tweed, an Italian-cut English import under the label of a local men's shop. It was really well-cut _(and half-lined, which seems to be a huge advantage gained by buying OTR from our local 'best' shops)_, and the horn buttons (which I should have saved) had a lot of 'brio'. The other was of a more refined and tightly-woven wool, from Hickey Freeman. Both garments were so SUBSTANTIAL, and basically did, for me, what double-breasted jackets did for Prince Charles, back when he was looking good. Tweed has so much heft. And when paired with a gutsy double-breasted cut, really do correct the awkward proportions of guys like me _(and HRH)._

I wore both jackets out, I liked them so much. Nobody told me no, when I was wearing either. And I suppose that's the acid test: *when a garment makes us look so right*, nobody wants to think we could be wrong.

It's time to order a replacement, and I'm wondering whether to go to the local shop which has Zegna trunk shows, or the one which carries Oxxford. Or should I experiment with Luciano Barbera _(whose trousers I've liked very much)_. Does Barbera still have its rustic line? The more I think about it, the English-Italian fusion will be the ticket _(and neither Zegna nor Oxxford have ever been brilliant in that regard)._ Has anyone ordered such an item from Tom James?

Or should I throw caution to the winds, and find something online? Any suggestions? And is Wilkes Bashford still as tweedy as it once was? I know it's changed owners. It was a nice place to pop into, when on that coast.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 58679


A nice looking Tweed, but I would lengthen the coat tail. I just think it right to cover my butt, as well as my front, of course.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> A nice looking Tweed, but I would lengthen the coat tail. I just think it right to cover my butt, as well as my front, of course.


+1.

Great tweed, but cut and fit, not so much.


----------



## Flanderian

80's, 70's? I don't know.

But a great looking tweed, and a great coat!


----------



## Peak and Pine

^^

Nice. Very soft looking. But I think the guy left the hanger in the coat.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> 80's, 70's? I don't know.
> 
> But a great looking tweed, and a great coat!
> 
> View attachment 58708


Nice and an echo of this post of Bogie in 1936 a few pages back:  #5,633 

I think we are losing it now, but the '30s style of men's dress had a darn good 80-ish year run.


----------



## Fading Fast

And a fun bonus shot:


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Peak and Pine

First in my series of Homes That Go Well With Tweed...










I may make a seperate thread of this.

(Eagle, the above's in Indiana, know it?)


----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> First in my series of Homes That Go Well With Tweed...
> 
> View attachment 58719
> 
> 
> I may make a seperate thread of this.
> 
> (Eagle, the above's in Indiana, know it?)


I love the architectural design and agree, it goes well with Tweed, but I am not sure of the location. My guess is that it is an address on the outskirts of Gary or Hammond, IN. :icon_scratch:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 58713
> 
> 
> And a fun bonus shot:
> View attachment 58714


Love it all! Cloth and cut! Magnificent tweeds.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Love it all! Cloth and cut! Magnificent tweeds.


Agreed. Also, how funny about the 1930s Bogie coat echo to your coat pic yesterday?


----------



## Peak and Pine

.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 58768
> 
> 
> View attachment 58769





Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 58772


All marvelous!


----------



## Flanderian

Tweed ties -


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 58787


Love the fedora.


----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 58781


That is one very handsome cardigan, although out here in the wild, I have not seen any folks wearing a waistcoat beneath a shawl collar cardigan. Truth be told, it's a pretty good look!


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 58768
> 
> 
> View attachment 58769


Wore almost the same outfit as the top photo years ago, only with a blue OCBD. It was part of a Cricketeer tweed suit, and the vest was reversible.


----------



## Oldsarge

TKI67 said:


> Wore almost the same outfit as the top photo years ago, only with a blue OCBD. It was part of a Cricketeer tweed suit, and the vest was reversible.


I remember those. I thought they were a capital idea and was vastly disappointed when they disappeared.


----------



## EclecticSr.

TKI67 said:


> Wore almost the same outfit as the top photo years ago, only with a blue OCBD. It was part of a Cricketeer tweed suit, and the vest was reversible.


It has been ages since I last heard the brand Criketeer mentioned.


----------



## Oldsarge

EclecticSr. said:


> It has been ages since I last heard the brand Criketeer mentioned.


Pity. They made good stuff.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Oldsarge said:


> Pity. They made good stuff.


Along with many other well known quality brands in their time.


----------



## Fading Fast

I've told this story before, so I'll be brief. I did not own nor understand suits when I started working on Wall St out of college in the '80s. I wore a navy blazer and grey trousers at first, which was acceptable for kids out of college with the expectation you'd start building a wardrobe as soon as you could. 

Several months later, I went shopping for my first suit and caught a two-for-one sales on a select number of Cricketeer suits. One was navy and one was a black pinstripe (I think, my memory is shaky on the details), which were the first two adults suits I ever owned. 

They weren't really "right" versus the "Brooks Brothers Wall St." look, but I didn't know better and at least I was on my way.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 58787


Wonderful coat!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian

Not tweed. But needs to be seen.

Bespoke DB suit made from *vintage* _Sportex _cloth. *Love* this cloth!

Sportex was a brand name and range of fine cloth intended for use in tailored clothing for sport, or more durable business wear. It was a brand name of Dormeuil, the 170 year old French mercer. This range was briefly revived not that long ago as described in the article at the link below by the tailor David Reeves in which he describes some of the cloth's properties.

https://davidreevesbespoke.wordpress.com/2011/08/29/dormeuil-sportex-the-first-sports-fabric/


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> Not tweed. But needs to be seen.
> 
> Bespoke DB suite made from *vintage* _Sportex _cloth. *Love* this cloth!
> 
> View attachment 58811


I would wear that suit in a heartbeat


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> I would wear that suit in a heartbeat


As would I!


----------



## Fading Fast

Nice outfit on Ronald Coleman a few posts above, which inspired me to post a few (what I think are Tweed ones) from another Golden Era star, Franchot Tone.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Fading Fast said:


> Nice outfit on Ronald Coleman a few posts above, which inspired me to post a few (what I think are Tweed ones) from another Golden Era star, Franchot Tone.
> View attachment 58857
> View attachment 58858
> View attachment 58859


The third photo reminds me of "More cow bell" only in this case it's "More lapels!"


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Nice outfit on Ronald Coleman a few posts above, which inspired me to post a few (what I think are Tweed ones) from another Golden Era star, Franchot Tone.
> View attachment 58857
> View attachment 58858
> View attachment 58859


Incredibly rich and beautiful tweed. :beer:

And no doubt bullet proof. If those jackets were extant today, it would likely have endured.


----------



## Flanderian

Ebullient tweed.


----------



## Fading Fast

Can't quite keep up with the joie de vivre of that one ⇧, 
but it's ⇩ got some verve.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^^^
Unusual texture. Almost a bouclé, looks interesting, and warm. I would wear that, after I burned the lavender shirt.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Shatner tweed. But not so sure on blow up, the grain I thought was tweed is all over the pic, pixel tweed? Handsome dog though. Now beam him outta here.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Take this...










...add khakis below, gray athletic sweatshirt beneath, Chucks as stompers and I'll let you on the property.


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Ebullient tweed.
> 
> View attachment 58879


This is really weird... I look at the left shoulder and am thinking, this might work. Then I shift my gaze to the right lapel and am convinced this jacket is "one hot mess and one I would never wear!" Either the designer of this sartorial oddity or I have lost our mind...or perhaps we both have done so?


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Can't quite keep up with the joie de vivre of that one ⇧,
> but it's ⇩ got some verve.
> View attachment 58913


Whoa!


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> This is really weird... I look at the left shoulder and am thinking, this might work. Then I shift my gaze to the right lapel and am convinced this jacket is "one hot mess and one I would never wear!" Either the designer of this sartorial oddity or I have lost our mind...or perhaps we both have done so?


I tend to start salivating at the appearance of any tartan or tartan like pattern. The retailer did a nice job displaying it by adding only plain accessories. I do like the tweed, but this is one of those once-a-year jackets. Possibly sometime around Christmas when the festivities are flowing and the holiday conveys a more convivial latitude. Likely change the silk knit tie color to a more seasonal color scheme. I've got one in a vibrant green.


----------



## never behind

Peak and Pine said:


> Take this...
> 
> View attachment 58919
> 
> 
> ...add khakis below, gray athletic sweatshirt beneath, Chucks as stompers and I'll let you on the property.


That is a great jacket. I need this for my wardrobe.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Dressing up camo, if that be possible...










Yeah. It is. Black jeans sold faded. Gray camo shirt. Mono all over. Then slap on a 3-button, tweed h'bone vest in dijon, all buttons meant to be fastened. This probably works for most ages, but oldsters better be fit.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

^^
Thr above outfit, Holland's Country Clothes, is in Britain and sells what its name says, at very good prices. Current sale offers these tattersalls for c. $19. Lord knows what shipping adds.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 58959


Handsome coat! :icon_cheers:

A classic.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Handsome coat! :icon_cheers:
> 
> A classic.


I agree and it's from a currently operating company: mens-tweeds Even adjusting for the currency, the prices look very reasonable assuming good quality.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I agree and it's from a currently operating company: mens-tweeds Even adjusting for the currency, the prices look very reasonable assuming good quality.


Hmmm . . . . very interesting! :icon_scratch:

In some instances almost too good to be believed -

https://hollandscountryclothing.co.uk/products/bronte-derby-tweed-shooting-jacket
I've seen some sporting outfitters request almost that amount for a *cap*. Wonder if they're selling NOS bought in bulk.

Interesting too the allusion to the legendary gun maker, Holland and Holland -

https://hollandandholland.com/


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge, eat your heart out! :devil:


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Oldsarge, eat your heart out! :devil:
> 
> View attachment 58973


Slaver, slaver


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## EclecticSr.

Flanderian said:


> Oldsarge, eat your heart out! :devil:
> 
> View attachment 58973


Hmm. Winchester wing safety, quarter rib ramp with folding sights. quick detachable mount, fine Circassian ,or American walnut stock ebony fore end.

I'm drooling. I have close, but only close in Win. 300 Mag.


----------



## Oldsarge

I recently acquired a Ruger #1 in .300 H&H with comparable wood a color case hardened action. It's all I can do to keep from taking it to bed.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## EclecticSr.

Oldsarge said:


> I recently acquired a Ruger #1 in .300 H&H with comparable wood a color case hardened action. It's all I can do to keep from taking it to bed.


I regret not purchasing a Ruger #1 when I had many opportunities.
I do have 3 bolt action, A Ruger lightweight in .257 Roberts 1 in .308. and full manlicher in .243 which has never been fired.
I have a Browning falling block in 30-06. never fired.


----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> I recently acquired a Ruger #1 in .300 H&H with comparable wood a color case hardened action. It's all I can do to keep from taking it to bed.


Sounds much like the 45 year affair I have been enjoying with my Colt-Sauer Bolt Action .243 cal, fitted with a 3X-9X Leopold scope. However a more accommodating bed partner is a Smith&Wesson Governor, loaded with alternating rounds of .45 caliber and .410 Ga shells. Heaven help the bad guy who breaks into a home, so prepared! LOL.


----------



## EclecticSr.

eagle2250 said:


> Sounds much like the 45 year affair I have been enjoying with my Colt-Sauer Bolt Action .243 cal, fitted with a 3X-9X Leopold scope. However a more accommodating bed partner is a Smith&Wesson Governor, loader with alternating rounds of .45 caliber and .410 Ga shells. Heaven help the bad guy who breaks into a home, so prepared! LOL.


 Another piece I regret not acquiring, Colt-Sauer. Could have had one like new.
The list of arms I regret not acquiring is too long, those I have acquired is equally as long. In the 50s Winchester came out with a full length stocked lightweight rifle that I drooled over as a teen, when I reached age unfortunately they no longer produced them. I read myself to sleep with the Bible and the Digest.

So much for crying over spilled milk.

My bed partners aside from wifey are Sig 230 and a twelve bore.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Less I stray too far, I believe I have case for some of the above in a tweed.
There fixed.


----------



## Flanderian

EclecticSr. said:


> Hmm. Winchester wing safety, quarter rib ramp with folding sights. quick detachable mount, fine Circassian ,or American walnut stock ebony fore end.
> 
> I'm drooling. I have close, but only close in Win. 300 Mag.


Another shot. States Turkish walnut. (Infused with hashish?) If you have to ask, you can't afford it.

https://hollandandholland.com/new-and-preowned-guns/HNSR114


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 59033


Interesting ensemble. :beer:


----------



## Flanderian

Clark.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Flanderian said:


> Another shot. States Turkish walnut. (Infused with hashish?) If you have to ask, you can't afford it.
> 
> https://hollandandholland.com/new-and-preowned-guns/HNSR114
> View attachment 59043


Turkish, Circasian, who cares. Fact, those who harvest(ed) such walnut after many years of growth would actually wrap chains around the trunks of young growth in order to produce the fancy figure in the wood. The harsher the elements where they are grown also assists in the beautifully figured specimens.

Same may be said for grape vines, the poorer the soil the better the grape, or so I'm told.



Flanderian said:


> Another shot. States Turkish walnut. (Infused with hashish?) If you have to ask, you can't afford it.
> 
> https://hollandandholland.com/new-and-preowned-guns/HNSR114
> View attachment 59043


The color case hardened grip cap is like the cherry on the cake. My guess charcoal hardening.


----------



## Flanderian

EclecticSr. said:


> Turkish, Circasian, who cares. Fact, those who harvest(ed) such walnut after many years of growth would actually wrap chains around the trunks of young growth in order to produce the fancy figure in the wood. The harsher the elements where they are grown also assists in the beautifully figured specimens.
> 
> Same may be said for grape vines, the poorer the soil the better the grape, or so I'm told.
> 
> The color case hardened grip cap is like the cherry on the cake. My guess charcoal hardening.


History and ballistics for .375 H&H round.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.375_H&H_Magnum


----------



## EclecticSr.

Flanderian said:


> History and ballistics for .375 H&H round.
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.375_H&H_Magnum


When we get into the realm of such rounds you will find many would choose a double.
I myself if I were in need would opt for .416 Rigby in a double. But make no mistake .375 H&H has much going for it. Sadly I have no such need, but won't allow that to distract from desire against need. Much of my wants in clothing and arms have walked hand in hand lo these 80 years.

Okay, to satisfy the mods. and keep this on track, a vintage A&F safari jacket.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Flanderian said:


> History and ballistics for .375 H&H round.
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.375_H&H_Magnum


See my post above. When it comes to ballistics I had years ago settled on the co-efficiency of 7mm. rounds. 7X57, 7mm Rem. Mag, later 7mm.-08. as great all around cartridges I have witnessed first hand the efficiency of the 7mm-08, I own two. 
Selouse took many pachyderm with single shot from the venerable 7X57 Mauser. Shot placement key.
I to this day cannot wrap my head around the culling of so many such beasts by one man. 
Different times.

But, I have tweed hunting jackets


----------



## Flanderian

Yes!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Yes!
> 
> View attachment 59048


Nice


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Vecchio Vespa

EclecticSr. said:


> Turkish, Circasian, who cares. Fact, those who harvest(ed) such walnut after many years of growth would actually wrap chains around the trunks of young growth in order to produce the fancy figure in the wood. The harsher the elements where they are grown also assists in the beautifully figured specimens.
> 
> Same may be said for grape vines, the poorer the soil the better the grape, or so I'm told.
> 
> The color case hardened grip cap is like the cherry on the cake. My guess charcoal hardening.


The notion that poorer soil yields better wine is IME erroneous. I am a huge fan of Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Chardonnay from the Willamette Valley, and the soil there is superb. It is one of the more fertile places on the planet. It is very interesting soil with various minerals, including a surprising amount of iron along Ribbon Ridge, that contribute to the terroir. The grapes that struggle are apt to produce exceptionally complex wines. The thinking seems to be that the struggle from poor treatment such as not receiving any additional irrigation can be beneficial. Of course there are some astounding wines from less hospitable places.


----------



## EclecticSr.

TKI67 said:


> The notion that poorer soil yields better wine is IME erroneous. I am a huge fan of Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Chardonnay from the Willamette Valley, and the soil there is superb. It is one of the more fertile places on the planet. It is very interesting soil with various minerals, including a surprising amount of iron along Ribbon Ridge, that contribute to the terroir. The grapes that struggle are apt to produce exceptionally complex wines. The thinking seems to be that the struggle from poor treatment such as not receiving any additional irrigation can be beneficial. Of course there are some astounding wines from less hospitable places.


A fan of Cabernet myself, and enjoy a good Pinot Noir. I'm no wine expert, far from it and appreciate your knowledge. I allowed myself an escape route, "so I'm told".
Now I'm told otherwise.

When it comes to Circasian, or American walnut though I'm more in my element as it relates to furniture of fine rifles.


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Yes!
> 
> View attachment 59048


I do so love the tweed jacket and the shirt fabric and the tie are also nice, but I just can't get my mind around pairing a club collar with a tweed jacket. T my eye, the differing levels of formality are just a bit jarring!


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 59053


Fading if that's you, nice. 
I could be wrong but some years ago I purchased a jacket in very similar if not the same cloth from a line being produced by Len Logsdail(sp) OTR and sold through a third party a shop somewhere in the South if I recall. A cloth of substantial heft.


----------



## Fading Fast

EclecticSr. said:


> Fading if that's you, nice.
> I could be wrong but some years ago I purchased a jacket in very similar if not the same cloth from a line being produced by Len Logsdail(sp) OTR and sold through a third party a shop somewhere in the South if I recall. A cloth of substantial heft.


Thank you, but not me, I could never pull off an ascot. I just liked, as you noted, the heft of the sport jacket's material.


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Another shot. States Turkish walnut. (Infused with hashish?) If you have to ask, you can't afford it.
> 
> https://hollandandholland.com/new-and-preowned-guns/HNSR114
> View attachment 59043


That's absolutely for sure. The people at H&H are very pleasant and on the single occasion I had dealings with them, treated me very nicely. However, Turkish walnut is echelons above reality for me.


----------



## Oldsarge

For quite the longest my 'Net handle read, "Holland's .375: One Planet, One Rifle for One Hundred Years!"

My hunting desires have never included elephants or rhino, lion or leopard. Cape Buffalo, however, are both exciting and delicious. And if it was the first shot on a herd, I would have no qualms about using the .375. But once they're upset, I have learned the hard way that frontal area is very, very important. Under those circumstances, I reach for my .450 Rigby Rimless. "Suitable for dinosaur and small armored cars"--Craig Boddington.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 59053


Gorgeous tweed, very handsome ensemble. I'd need to button one more button.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Oldsarge said:


> For quite the longest my 'Net handle read, "Holland's .375: One Planet, One Rifle for One Hundred Years!"
> 
> My hunting desires have never included elephants or rhino, lion or leopard. Cape Buffalo, however, are both exciting and delicious. And if it was the first shot on a herd, I would have no qualms about using the .375. But once they're upset, I have learned the hard way that frontal area is very, very important. Under those circumstances, I reach for my .450 Rigby Rimless. "Suitable for dinosaur and small armored cars"--Craig Boddington.


An avid reader of Mr. Boddington in the past. I would concur, but the .416 Rigby I believe would dispatch equally as well, but I defer to the inimitable Mr. Boddington, shot placement under pressure is key.

Gents.


----------



## Oldsarge

With M'bogo, sometimes even perfect shot placement isn't always enough. I took the top of its heart off one and the bastard still charged me. Nope, when it comes to stopping rifles, unless you shoot like my PH that trip, .458 caliber is the bare minimum. If I were 20 years younger and planning on regular trips to Africa, a .505 would be on the shopping list.


----------



## Oldsarge

Anyway, back to the topic of the thread.


----------



## David J. Cooper

TKI67 said:


> The notion that poorer soil yields better wine is IME erroneous. I am a huge fan of Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Chardonnay from the Willamette Valley, and the soil there is superb. It is one of the more fertile places on the planet. It is very interesting soil with various minerals, including a surprising amount of iron along Ribbon Ridge, that contribute to the terroir. The grapes that struggle are apt to produce exceptionally complex wines. The thinking seems to be that the struggle from poor treatment such as not receiving any additional irrigation can be beneficial. Of course there are some astounding wines from less hospitable places.


So Oregon is your proof? We should start a thread somewhere to argue this.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

David J. Cooper said:


> So Oregon is your proof? We should start a thread somewhere to argue this.


I like wine. When it tastes good. :hidden:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Good pics above. Nice to see this thread pick up.

⇩ Just button the collar as designed and this one's really nice.


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> I like wine. When it tastes good. :hidden:


I agree. That is the only standard that really matters!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Good pics above. Nice to see this thread pick up.
> 
> ⇩ Just button the collar as designed and this one's really nice.
> View attachment 59134


Great tweed! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 59139


Magnificent autumnal tones.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 59139


Very handsome.


----------



## Tweedlover

eagle2250 said:


> I agree. That is the only standard that really matters!


Fortunately, I find that even cheap wines taste good to me as that's all I can afford.  Red wine only for me, though. cabs or merlot.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 59244


Those tweed trousers appear stout enough to stand on their own. To my mind it would take some really cold temperatures to make those trousers comfortable on one's a**! Just saying......  LOL.


----------



## Oldsarge

I think this is exceptional.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## drpeter

Here's one I would definitely buy. However, it is likely made in the new (too) short style, which means the length of the jacket would be a problem. The maroon Donegal tweed flecked with other colours is magnificent. I am not sure I want to spend $635 on this jacket with potential styling problems.

https://www.magee1866.com/en/Maroon...Donegal-Tweed-Classic-Fit-Jacket/m-12564.aspx


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Agreed, beautiful fabric.


----------



## drpeter

Beautiful. I have one very similar to this district check, slightly different in colours. It is a shetland wool sportcoat by Orvis, likely not available now. I bought it a decade ago.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Agreed, beautiful fabric.
> 
> View attachment 59406


Wow! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Troones

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Agreed, beautiful fabric.
> 
> View attachment 59406


I have pretty much an indentical jacket from J Press that I posted previously in this thread. Possibly a slightly larger check but pretty close. I used to receive compliments like crazy from my staff at my former job on the rare occasion I wore it.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Not sure if this photo has previously been posted, but I consider it to be near perfect within its genre, and beautifully accessorized.


----------



## Flanderian

Clifton Webb -


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Good one.

You reminded me how much of a dandy Webb is in "Laura." Tweed yes (1st pic), but so much more:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Good one.
> 
> You reminded me how much of a dandy Webb is in "Laura." Tweed yes (1st pic), but so much more:
> View attachment 59595
> View attachment 59596
> View attachment 59599
> View attachment 59598
> 
> View attachment 59600
> 
> View attachment 59597


Wonderful stills of a splendiferous Webb! An era when Hollywood had the sharpest sense of style extant!


----------



## Flanderian

Flanderian said:


> Clifton Webb -
> 
> View attachment 59594


When posting this thread I was struck by the cut of Mr. Webb's lapel. It's a bit unusual and reminds me of a lapel cut known popularly as a Tautz lapel. Rather a neo-Tautz. The origin of the Tautz lapel is attributed to tailor Edward Tautz of London's west end. While often misidentified as a common peak lapel, it's more complex. Usually appearing on SB jackets Its defining characteristic appears to be a notch lapel in which the lower edge below the gorge extends a slightly beyond the upper edge.

I've seen better photos and drawings of this lapel but can't immediately source any. There seems to be a good deal of flexibility in how individual tailors expressed this essential characteristic, and the best photo I've come upon is superb 20th Century author, and dandy, Gay Talese.


----------



## EclecticSr.

^^^^Vaguely familiar with Tautz by way of forums . While not a fan of the style, I admit, I give a certain amount of credit to his unorthodox break from the traditional, to my mind a moving target. 


Same might be said for Tommy Nutter on another side of breaking with tradition. 

Both may have contributed to the moving/shifting the progression of certain styles. 
I guess they thought outside the box for their time. Edward Sexton probably could be added to the list. 

I could be all wet on this and would defer to those such as you who are more familiar.
As always, you bring intelligent well thought out information to the forum.


----------



## Flanderian

EclecticSr. said:


> ^^^^Vaguely familiar with Tautz by way of forums . While not a fan of the style, I admit, I give a certain amount of credit to his unorthodox break from the traditional, to my mind a moving target.
> 
> Same might be said for Tommy Nutter on another side of breaking with tradition.
> 
> Both may have contributed to the moving/shifting the progression of certain styles.
> I guess they thought outside the box for their time. Edward Sexton probably could be added to the list.
> 
> I could be all wet on this and would defer to those such as you who are more familiar.
> As always, you bring intelligent well thought out information to the forum.


Thank you!

Upon further reflection, I'm unsure that I didn't get that backwards. 🙃

The top point extending beyond the lower? :icon_scratch:

Going by memory, an increasingly unrewarding endeavor. Still poking about the Internet for better clarification.


----------



## EclecticSr.

None the less, kudos to one who can turn a smiley on it's head.
As you know, I had difficulty navigating the symbols just to post a smiley.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 59643


Dr. Watson, I presume?


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Dr. Watson, I presume?


 Agreed, the accessories are a bit hokey, but man that Tweed looks nice.


----------



## eagle2250

EclecticSr. said:


> None the less, kudos to one who can turn a smiley on it's head.
> As you know, I had difficulty navigating the symbols just to post a smiley.


Yes...we ought to try to get him to share with us how he does that! LOL.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 59643


Ironically I just posted elsewhere, "What's a pipe?"


----------



## Fading Fast

TKI67 said:


> Ironically I just posted elsewhere, "What's a pipe?"


Months and months go by and I don't see one and, then, when I do, it is always an older gentleman who has one.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Agreed, the accessories are a bit hokey, but man that Tweed looks nice.


I like it! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> Yes...we ought to try to get him to share with us how he does that! LOL.


First you must stand on your head . . . . 🙃


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ I love that material and the swelled edge.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ I love that material and the swelled edge.


Yes. I agree. Lovely color. This shade of green pleases me greatly, and is also flattering. Love the accessorization of the black knit tie. It's punctuation to a rich color palate along with the plain white shirt. Amplification through understatement.


----------



## Peak and Pine

So damn good.

Yeah the shirt's a little too undone but maybe I did that too in my 20s. High waisted Gurka pants, hair-line pleats, suede tassels, tapered sleeves and a jacket with a top tier cut for you've really got something if unbuttoned and leaning the jacket still looks like it was sewn together while you were in it. This guy's pale, the colors, maybe lack of, work well with that. Cuffs would look stupid here. Age appropriate? For him; button the shirt and other ages could suit up similarly. And no pocket square, yes. Obviously not a river boat gambler.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^^
Excuse me? You (TKI67) gave that a Like after writing what reads like a high class Wikipedia entry for TNSIL earler this morning? Why thank you. (I liked the TNSIL piece.) (Tho not a TINSIL individual.) (Anymore.) (Still.)


----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 59662
> 
> 
> So damn good.
> 
> Yeah the shirt's a little too undone but maybe I did that too in my 20s. High waisted Gurka pants, hair-line pleats, suede tassels, tapered sleeves and a jacket with a top tier cut for you've really got something if unbuttoned and leaning the jacket still looks like it was sewn together while you were in it. This guy's pale, the colors, maybe lack of, work well with that. Cuffs would look stupid here. Age appropriate? For him; button the shirt and other ages could suit up similarly. And no pocket square, yes. Obviously not a river boat gambler.
> 
> View attachment 59663


I too really like the Gurka waisted trousers. Wish they still made em like that.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^^
I think they do. I see them popping up all over the net, but haven't clicked. Dr. Peter would know something about these since they're from his native country which is India not Newark like I originally thought.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Kid in a 30s tweed (I'm guessing). Gurkas again. Forward pleats and a high waist. Not an outfit for a Man for All Seasons, but seems to work well on him.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Peak and Pine

This photograph was run earlier today.










Certainly passable. But that's about it. The kid's specs and expression and the outfit make him look the opposite of devil-may-care and when you're his age you always wanna look dmc or girls won't call back when you leave a message with their mom and quaranteed mom won't call back if you leave a message with the daughter. But boy am I a dated cuss, who actually calls a house and asks for someone in this smart phone piece of history we're living through. But I don't feel like rewriting this.

Okay, now take the jacket off and have the lapels pressed properly. Or is it a hard three he's jerked to a two? Tough to tell, just an unwelcome crease in a prominent spot, down the lapel. The outfit looks a little beefy for this bespeckled lad. I think it's too big. Full shots would help. Would like to see the pants. (Maybe the daughter would too.) Not gonna lie, I was a dorkster like this kid until my junior year. Then the ramparts when down, me over them.

Stay safe. 😷


----------



## Peak and Pine

What to wear with tweed, *a plethora of tattersall. *(Okay, I borrowed that from Flanderian. I left out the _ upon request _ thing because noody asked for this.)





































Fun fact. None of the above are truly tattersall, by my definition, which is two color boxes, the corners of each resting in the center of the others. All the above are three color.

And finally a pleth (which is the singular of plethora) of what not to wear with tweed...

.









Correction, the first one is tattersall.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Peak and Pine said:


> ^^
> Excuse me? You (TKI67) gave that a Like after writing what reads like a high class Wikipedia entry for TNSIL earler this morning? Why thank you. (I liked the TNSIL piece.) (Tho not a TINSIL individual.) (Anymore.) (Still.)


Yes, I liked the outfit. The colors were working together, the somewhat unbuttoned shirt and the sockless loafers were consistent. I liked the drape of the pants. I would not wear it, but I appreciate it.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 59724


Wunderbar! :icon_cheers:

Should eliminate any need for Kevlar.


----------



## Flanderian

Another tweed like ya mean it! -


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Another tweed like ya mean it! -
> 
> View attachment 59729


I'd love to see the full three pieces of that one - most be incredibly impressive.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I'd love to see the full three pieces of that one - most be incredibly impressive.


Very _Siegfried Farnon, _I think. 👍


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Tweedlover

Didn't


Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 59277


Didn't he act on WKRP in Cincinnati? Loved that show at the time.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 59821


Love the tweed on top1



Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 59854


Magnificent tweed, beautifully put together!


----------



## Flanderian

Handsome tweed, and well put together. Fine the way it is, but the perfectionist in me wants both the jacket and trousers a 1/2" longer.


----------



## Flanderian

I am very fond of this ensemble, and would be delighted to assemble it. Plain tweed shirt jacket in OD inspired by bush jackets with light grey flannel slacks, a navy polo shirt and handsome quality loafers. Who says you've got to wear a T-shirt and jeans to be comfortable? Not so! With such options you can be both comfortable *and* well dressed.


----------



## 215339

eagle2250 said:


> I too really like the Gurka waisted trousers. Wish they still made em like that.


Gurkha trousers have been a resurging trend for the past year.

Yeossal will MTO some trousers for a reasonable price.


----------



## 215339

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 59712


Vaguely reminds me of this coat I found









Now here is a grey donegal suit.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Handsome tweed, and well put together. Fine the way it is, but the perfectionist in me wants both the jacket and trousers a 1/2" longer.
> 
> View attachment 59860


Really nice job of lining up the pattern.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 59777


I really like the Tweed and the young lady is rather fetching, but that lapel pin is overpowering...lose the lapel pin and go with something more discreet.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 59930


Great tweed! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Flanderian

Harris Tweed from retailer Ben Silver.


----------



## fishertw

Tweedlover said:


> Didn't
> 
> Didn't he act on WKRP in Cincinnati? Loved that show at the time.


I am almost positive he did. What an arcane recollection for us both. Turkeys falling out of airplanes!!


----------



## FiscalDean

fishertw said:


> I am almost positive he did. What an arcane recollection for us both. Turkeys falling out of airplanes!!


Yes, his character was Herb Tarlick.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Tweedlover

fishertw said:


> I am almost positive he did. What an arcane recollection for us both. Turkeys falling out of airplanes!!


At the time of the turkey episode, recall thinking that this was actually already attempted in my home state of South Dakota.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 60021


Very nice!


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Very nice!


Isn't the Donegal green lovely, though?


----------



## David J. Cooper

Tweedlover said:


> At the time of the turkey episode, recall thinking that this was actually already attempted in my home state of South Dakota.


One of the funniest things I ever saw. At the end Arthur Carlson says "As god is my witness, I thought Turkeys could fly".


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

I like the small collar with that. As for the undimpled tie, I don't care.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 60205


I believe we are looking at fox head buttons on that Estate/Keepers coat? I love the design.


----------



## Flanderian

David J. Cooper said:


> One of the funniest things I ever saw. At the end Arthur Carlson says "As god is my witness, I thought Turkeys could fly".


While I didn't get to enjoy the skit described, just for the record, turkeys can indeed fly. But only about as well as I sing. However that doesn't necessarily stop either of us as evidenced by a huge testosterone addled tom who launched himself at my driver's side window and struck the car I was driving with enough force to rock it.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 60205


Magnificent coat. Looks bespoke.


----------



## Flanderian

While only a portion of a complete jacket, and apparently still under construction, I'm so fond of this tweed I wished to share it. I have a fixation with the hounds tooth pattern in these colors, and of just this scale. And this nubby tweed is the perfect cloth to show it to its best advantage.

But I'm a bit puzzled by the basting stitches and wonder if they're for show as the jacket is already lined? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Peak and Pine

I imagine if you're anywhere in the northern tier of states, like I am, there's a two to three week window where you could wear that with visual comfort, the brightness heralding the lifting of winter, the sweater and tweed applying the brakes of a too early rush toward warmth.










Likeable in most respects with a combo of wild colors, rasberry and lemon plus madras, appearing less wild than when left on their own. Were I still 50 I might try that, 60 I'd switch the pants to khaki and keep the rest, today the sweater's color gets the boot, the yellow pants tho, they'd get waved through.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Wonderful Fair Isle too.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Wonderful Fair Isle too.
> 
> View attachment 60258


Not normally a fan of patch fabric sport coat designs, but the one pictured above works surprisingly well. Not sure, but I think I like it.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

eagle2250 said:


> Not normally a fan of patch fabric sport coat designs, but the one pictured above works surprisingly well. Not sure, but I think I like it.


I like it as well, but despite being the poster child for 72 is the new 18, I just can't wear a patch jacket. I am a devotee of GTH pants and shorts and sweaters in colors like candy pink, but I can't wear patch jackets, even patch Madras. It may just be that I don't see patch Madras jackets I like. I love my patch Madras shorts. I feel the same discomfort with GTH shirts like "fun" shirts.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Not normally a fan of patch fabric sport coat designs, but the one pictured above works surprisingly well. Not sure, but I think I like it.





TKI67 said:


> I like it as well, but despite being the poster child for 72 is the new 18, I just can't wear a patch jacket. I am a devotee of GTH pants and shorts and sweaters in colors like candy pink, but I can't wear patch jackets, even patch Madras. It may just be that I don't see patch Madras jackets I like. I love my patch Madras shorts. I feel the same discomfort with GTH shirts like "fun" shirts.


I think it is good for what it is, in part, because the patches don't jump out at you. I'm just not a patchwork guy - I have no interest in wearing one, but I could see that one working nicely on someone who is into it.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Feeling as many do regarding patchwork anything, yet decided to jump on a certain kind should it ever present, cotton, madras'y, sorta monochrome and darkish. Not knowing what predominant color might come forth to meet that criteria, was not surprised when it was green in almost camo colors (which I like, the colors of camo, not their design placement, or meaning)

Below is what I bought. The pics are from the Postmark listing. Note the description, _Guys blazer!_, making the search for this a tough one. Arrived in the Spring, but won't be worn this year, needs sleeve and side work and time precludes.


----------



## challer

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 60205


Perfect - I order this if I knew the source


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Wonderful Fair Isle too.
> 
> View attachment 60258


I'm not wild about patch tweed jackets as a genre, but this is a particularly nice jacket. Looks as if it might have come directly from a vintage _Chipp_ catalog. 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Interesting chalk stripe overcoat in a chalk stripe pattern more typical of suiting. Assumed it was flannel or melton, but magnifying it suggests it may be tweed.


----------



## Flanderian

Billed as a summer suit this 3-piece suit of 50/50 wool and linen makes me question the definition of summer suit, but boy, is this glen check midnight suit *SNAZZY!*


----------



## 215339

eagle2250 said:


> Not normally a fan of patch fabric sport coat designs, but the one pictured above works surprisingly well. Not sure, but I think I like it.


Traditional patch fabric seems very jarring with sharply contrasting tones.

With this one, everything has a consistently dusty vibe and seems far more wearable.


----------



## 215339

Peak and Pine said:


> Feeling as many do regarding patchwork anything, yet decided to jump on a certain kind should it ever present, cotton, madras'y, sorta monochrome and darkish. Not knowing what predominant color might come forth to meet that criteria, was not surprised when it was green in almost camo colors (which I like, the colors of camo, not their design placement, or meaning)
> 
> Below is what I bought. The pics are from the Postmark listing. Note the description, _Guys blazer!_, making the search for this a tough one. Arrived in the Spring, but won't be worn this year, needs sleeve and side work and time precludes.
> 
> View attachment 60261
> 
> 
> View attachment 60262
> 
> 
> View attachment 60263


Nice find, I love this one as well for the same reason. No sharply contrasting tones makes it easy on the eyes.


----------



## Peak and Pine

delicious_scent said:


> Nice find, I love this one as well for the same reason. No sharply contrasting tones makes it easy on the eyes.


Thank you. To refresh, we're talking about this...










The seller's pic. Now that I've received it, let me bring it down to true color ..










Not much of a fan of bright colors and one of the attractions of this one is, like you note, the more subtle contrast between patches. It's cotton and I may well un-trunk it and wear this season with rolled cuffs as they're lengthy as is.


----------



## Peak and Pine

These are waistcoats (pronounced _wes•cut_ up here by the few who pronounce it at all). Harris tweed, each.


----------



## never behind

I love this thread. I love tweed. The heat index here is 100+ this week. So I'm trying to decide what tweed jacket to buy this winter. I'd love some opinions. I have a grey herringbone, brown herringbone with windowpane and a lighter tan herringbone. My fall/winter trousers are mostly greys and browns. I'm trying to decide if a green or navy would be the better purchase.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^^^
I have a fairly hefty tweed cluster, but I don't recall actually seeking out a certain color or pattern. Just took what came along as long as it met certain personal criteria. Harris cloth, patch pockets, three hard buttons. I may be regarding the importance of proper pant pairing too loosely, but I feel that any of mine can be worn with just about any seasonally appropriate pant. An exception would be certain of my vintage English tweeds, mostly from Bladen which I seek out, which are very heavy and have prominent and complicated patterns and I feel should not be worn with any cotton pant. I have all the tweeds you say you have, a good set of basics, and were I you I would just spook around the sites, new and used, and see what makes you blink. Second hand tweed can be had amazingly cheap.

Good hunting, stay safe. 😷


----------



## Flanderian

never behind said:


> I love this thread. I love tweed. The heat index here is 100+ this week. So I'm trying to decide what tweed jacket to buy this winter. I'd love some opinions. I have a grey herringbone, brown herringbone with windowpane and a lighter tan herringbone. My fall/winter trousers are mostly greys and browns. I'm trying to decide if a green or navy would be the better purchase.
> 
> View attachment 60318
> View attachment 60319


Both great, but I jones for green tweed, so that would be my choice as you do not yet have that shade. It's also a more traditional country shade than navy, though navy tweed is very handsome too.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Fading Fast

I got no idea what is going on here as an outfit, but taken individually, the overcoat could be really impressive, the sport coat looks beautifully classic and the vest seems like a basic houndstooth Tweed.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Peak and Pine said:


> Feeling as many do regarding patchwork anything, yet decided to jump on a certain kind should it ever present, cotton, madras'y, sorta monochrome and darkish. Not knowing what predominant color might come forth to meet that criteria, was not surprised when it was green in almost camo colors (which I like, the colors of camo, not their design placement, or meaning)
> 
> Below is what I bought. The pics are from the Postmark listing. Note the description, _Guys blazer!_, making the search for this a tough one. Arrived in the Spring, but won't be worn this year, needs sleeve and side work and time precludes.
> 
> View attachment 60261
> 
> 
> View attachment 60262
> 
> 
> View attachment 60263


That is a nice patch Madras.


----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 60324


I love the tweed suit but I'm not sure I would pair the cardigan sweater with that rig. To my eye, it seems to suck the life energy out of the rig. A navy cardigan would be a much better choice!


----------



## never behind

Peak and Pine said:


> ^^^
> I have a fairly hefty tweed cluster, but I don't recall actually seeking out a certain color or pattern. Just took what came along as long as it met certain personal criteria. Harris cloth, patch pockets, three hard buttons. I may be regarding the importance of proper pant pairing too loosely, but I feel that any of mine can be worn with just about any seasonally appropriate pant. An exception would be certain of my vintage English tweeds, mostly from Bladen which I seek out, which are very heavy and have prominent and complicated patterns and I feel should not be worn with any cotton pant. I have all the tweeds you say you have, a good set of basics, and were I you I would just spook around the sites, new and used, and see what makes you blink. Second hand tweed can be had amazingly cheap.
> 
> Good hunting, stay safe. 😷


I've have a difficult time finding tweeds on eBay, etc, that come in a short length. I may just have to expand my search and just have the jacket shortened if everything else checks the boxes.


----------



## Peak and Pine

eagle2250 said:


> I love the tweed suit but I'm not sure I would pair the cardigan sweater with that rig. To my eye, it seems to suck the life energy out of the rig. A navy cardigan would be a much better choice!


Interesting observation.

(We're talking about this... )










I chose it for the very reasons you're not wild about. Your suggestion would seem to work as well.


----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> Interesting observation.
> 
> (We're talking about this... )
> 
> View attachment 60339
> 
> 
> I chose it for the very reasons you're not wild about. Your suggestion would seem to work as well.


I greatly respect and admire your choices and tastes in men's clothes and I really can't firmly put my finger on the source of my discontent in this instance. The grey works, but just not as well as others might. I've actually replicated a couple of rigs, based on your postings, my friend.


----------



## EclecticSr.

^^^^^^Change out the gray shirt for one in a light tan or taupe or even white.

A wool challis tie in muted fall colors, add a deep brown cardigan or in wine, maybe a deep hunter green, all subjected to testing in layout on the bed to see if it works. 

Leave the square, it just blends, might convert some anti square types


----------



## Peak and Pine

^^^

And that sounds good also. (We're talking about this...)










Which I altered from this...










...because it looked like he was picking his nose. Anyway, the cardigan appears to be made from jersey cloth rather than a knit, a wool, or a tweed. I have one, in that 'gym wear' color. Gives a slouchy look, as here with multiple undone buttons and seems neutral enough to go with anything. But for a more dressed-with-care look, both layouts suggested by @eagle2250 and @EclecticSr. sound sound.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Peak and Pine said:


> ^^^
> 
> And that sounds good also. (We're talking about this...)
> 
> View attachment 60342
> 
> 
> Which I altered from this...
> 
> View attachment 60343
> 
> 
> ...because it looked like he was picking his nose. Anyway, the cardigan appears to be made from jersey cloth rather than a knit, a wool, or a tweed. I have one, in that 'gym wear' color. Gives a slouchy look, as here with multiple undone buttons and seems neutral enough to go with anything. But for a more dressed-with-care look, both layouts suggested by @eagle2250 and @EclecticSr. sound.


Glad you altered, though the truth is out. 
As one who occasionally presses forefinger to base of nostrils, pen or pencil in hand while trying to scribe something literate and most often failing , I am quite humbled in that shortcoming.

Stay well my friend.


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> These are waistcoats (pronounced _wes•cut_ up here by the few who pronounce it at all). Harris tweed, each.
> 
> View attachment 60314


Oh, my!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## never behind

never behind said:


> I love this thread. I love tweed. The heat index here is 100+ this week. So I'm trying to decide what tweed jacket to buy this winter. I'd love some opinions. I have a grey herringbone, brown herringbone with windowpane and a lighter tan herringbone. My fall/winter trousers are mostly greys and browns. I'm trying to decide if a green or navy would be the better purchase.
> 
> View attachment 60318
> View attachment 60319


Called Ethan today (these are both O'Connell's HT). Both are out of stock in my size. He said they have the cloth on order but has to go to Canada for manufacturing. He shared a little about the process and it's a big mess right now (which isn't surprising if you read the news). I just have to wait and hope jackets start to show up by September.

ETA: FYI, Empire makes their HT jackets now.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Tweed tale.
Below, seller's pic of a $9 tweed. 15 to ship. Ouch. Arrival expected this week. But two, since I've already an identical one? Yes. Read on.










Close in on cloth...










Light molasses with rust and green. Very thick. Somewhat stiff. Three full buttons meant not to roll to anywhere. (Yes.). It's 100% COTTON, grown on the banks of the Yangtze River in You Know Where. Sold originally by a favorite purveyor I've never given up on, Edward Bauer, Eddie to friends.

I bought this same jacket second-hand as-new about two years ago for a similar price. Ask me if I like it and watch me jump up and down on this sagging farm house floor. Okay, so a little lo mixed with a lotta behold and what turns up last week but another, this one a large. Pictured above. The original is a small.

Why tho, why O why another, and in the wrong size? Because in addition to voting for Alf Landon twice I'm mistake prone? Well there's that, but no, number two will be sawn in half in a small, private ceremony, the body to become a vest, the bottom croppings to become a belt, the sleeves to become vertical straps front and back. Those in the know will recognize this as a full bellied Norfolk. Others will be left scratching their ugly, know-nothing heads. Caveat, dealing with mom and pop pics, cannot be 100% sure they'll match. If not, some lucky large person here gets a free cotton tweed.

This was the listing for the original jacket...










And number two..


----------



## Oldsarge

That's COTTON? I'm stunned. But by george that's one fine piece of material.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^^^

Thank you 
But I'm now going to make that a ghost post for I will not get into that project until the winter by the fire and the telling of it now was premature


----------



## Peak and Pine

Wait.
I just reread it and laughed.
So I'm leaving it up. (Awful ain't it, laughing at your own grins.) And yes, cotton, thick as or thicker than any wool tweed I own.


----------



## never behind

Oldsarge said:


> That's COTTON? I'm stunned. But by george that's one fine piece of material.


My reaction as well!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

^^^
Six stars on a five star scale.
High stance with one yet to go. Yes.
Lapel roll for dimension, latch integration for a bit of style. Bold shoulder. Few things are more conmon tweed-wise than a black and gray herringbone, teetering on boring, but this one breaks that slide with subtle style tics. Accessorized color-wise with thought, but not much needed for this small jump up from monochrome.

☆Critique based solely on personal preference, so it's unfair and probably shouldn't be allowed. The jacket again (Fading Fast's find, not mine)...


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 60385


Nice tweed! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Walking the razor's edge . . . it's great when it all comes together!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Nice tweed! 👍


Even though I already have a few version of the grey herringbone sport coat, if this exact one was available in my size, I'd add it to the collection as I like it that much.



Flanderian said:


> Walking the razor's edge . . . it's great when it all comes together!
> 
> View attachment 60400


Well done outfit.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Even though I already have a few version of the grey herringbone sport coat, if this exact one was available in my size, I'd add it to the collection as I like it that much.
> 
> Well done outfit.


I think so too. A step wrong in any direction, and it's a mess. Spot on, art.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Update.
A few posts upstream, the Eddie Bauer cotton tweed, where I found a second one to use for parts. It came in today. Sad story, great piece, same cut, same fabric, different batch. Two shades darker. Take a look...










The front one is the original, the best fitting one, intended to be the base coat upon which pieces from the other are applied. But nix on that, or so I initially concluded. But now am reconcluding and think that a slightly deeper shade for the straps, belt and vest might work, saved maybe by symmetry, for random use of a second shade speaks patchwork whereas a balanced application of the darker vertical straps, fore and aft, belt and vest might appear purposeful and certainly custom. May give it a whirl come winter.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Gilet
Super big buttons. Super big pockets. 
Appears to have matching pants. Dunno about that part.
.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 60431


Nice tweed!


----------



## Flanderian

Double-barreled Coop!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Double-barreled Coop!
> 
> View attachment 60441


"Dressed up like a million dollar trooper
Trying hard to look like Gary Cooper"
- Puttin' on the Ritz


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> Update.
> A few posts upstream, the Eddie Bauer cotton tweed, where I found a second one to use for parts. It came in today. Sad story, great piece, same cut, same fabric, different batch. Two shades darker. Take a look...
> 
> View attachment 60415
> 
> 
> The front one is the original, the best fitting one, intended to be the base coat upon which pieces from the other are applied. But nix on that, or so I initially concluded. But now am reconcluding and think that a slightly deeper shade for the straps, belt and vest might work, saved maybe by symmetry, for random use of a second shade speaks patchwork whereas a balanced application of the darker vertical straps, fore and aft, belt and vest might appear purposeful and certainly custom. May give it a whirl come winter.


I believe you're onto something there. Should you decide to spend the snowy times working on it, do publish the result.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> "Dressed up like a million dollar trooper
> Trying hard to look like Gary Cooper"
> - Puttin' on the Ritz


----------



## Fading Fast

I can't think of another time I've seen a tie and suit made from the same material. Individual, the pieces are fine, but no, no, no. Tie looks like it's from a slightly darker dye lot, but still, no, no, no.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 60473
> 
> I can't think of another time I've seen a tie and suit made from the same material. Individual, the pieces are fine, but no, no, no. Tie looks like it's from a slightly darker dye lot, but still, no, no, no.


I have several ties from Polo made of tweed end runs from which they had made a run of sports jackets, (I remembered the jackets.) though not sold together, and certainly not intended to be worn together. Beautiful tweed above, and I like both items, but I'd love the tie with a corduroy jacket, (My PB&J default tweed pairing.) and the jacket with a host of other ties.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> I have several ties from Polo made of tweed end runs from which they had made a run of sports jackets, (I remembered the jackets.) though not sold together, and certainly not intended to be worn together. Beautiful tweed above, and I like both items, but I'd love the tie with a corduroy jacket, (My PB&J default tweed pairing.) and the jacket with a host of other ties.


Were the "matching" tweed ties and sport coats for sale at the same time in Polo?

I used to be a regular at the store and don't remember that, but I easily could have missed it since they weren't showing them together.

I love Tweed ties. My small museum of unworn dress clothes has a nice Tweed tie section that draws a decent crowd on the weekends.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Were the "matching" tweed ties and sport coats for sale at the same time in Polo?
> 
> I used to be a regular at the store and don't remember that, but I easily could have missed it since they weren't showing them together.
> 
> I love Tweed ties. My small museum of unworn dress clothes has a nice Tweed tie section that draws a decent crowd on the weekends.


This is 25+ years ago, but to the best of my recollection, while the two items were being sold at the same store, they were not sold at the same time. I can recall browsing (A favorite hobby!) in the store at the beginning of the season among the sport jackets, some of which were handsome tweeds. And these ties usually appeared subsequently toward the end of the season and after such jackets were gone. My surmise being the ties were made from leftover bits to tweed after the jacket line was produced.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> This is 25+ years ago, but to the best of my recollection, while the two items were being sold at the same store, they were not sold at the same time. I can recall browsing (A favorite hobby!) in the store at the beginning of the season among the sport jackets, some of which were handsome tweeds. And these ties usually appeared subsequently toward the end of the season and after such jackets were gone. My surmise being the ties were made from leftover bits to tweed after the jacket line was produced.


That makes sense. Back at about the same time, browsing the all-but-out-of-my-price-range NYC Polo Flagship was a regular activity of mine too.


----------



## Peak and Pine

I see nothing in this photograph that shows it wasn't taken by Annie Liebowitz last night. But it wasn't. It's by Cecil Beaton from 1946. Brando in tweed.



















He shares billing with the lighting. And the ethereal mist out of which he appears to arise in the uncropped second photo. Was hesitant to post this as the photograph itself overpowers the tweed. And this is the tweed thread. But what you gonna do when faced with a photo like this.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 60529


I don't think I like Patchwork designs, all that much, but I do very much like that jacket. the pink shirt works well with the fabric pattern of the jacket, but I would have opted for a shirt with a matching collar. Just saying.....


----------



## David J. Cooper

I have never seen an unbuttoned button down with a collar pin. The horror.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> I don't think I like Patchwork designs, all that much, but I do very much like that jacket. the oink shirt works well with the fabric pattern of the jacket, but I would have opted for a shirt with a matching collar. Just saying.....


I've seen patchwork madras sport coats, shirts, ties and pants in real life, but I don't remember ever seeing a Tweed patchwork sport coat outside of an advertisement. Have others seen Tweed patchwork sport coats worn in real life?


----------



## ItalianStyle

They are the Tweed version of camouflage... that's why you don't see them...


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 60529





eagle2250 said:


> I don't think I like Patchwork designs, all that much, but I do very much like that jacket. the pink shirt works well with the fabric pattern of the jacket, but I would have opted for a shirt with a matching collar. Just saying.....


Agreed! An exceptional example of the genre! 👍


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## never behind

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 60542


Nice jacket but too much green for me.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Beautiful Tweed. I usually like heavier textured ties with a Tweed like that, but that tie works well with that sport coat. I'm pretty sure I owned that tie at one point.


----------



## Fading Fast

I believe it's a full pic of yesterday's patchwork sport coat.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Handsome


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Handsome
> 
> View attachment 60642


Great Norfolk jacket!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian

[HEADING=2]ANTÓNIO SÉRGIO ROSA DE CARVALHO -[/HEADING]










Duke of Tweed and Prince of Portobello Road.  
[HEADING=2][/HEADING]


----------



## 215339

I'm not usually a fan of sack cuts. It feels like someone intentionally chose the most unflattering details on a jacket: square, flapped pockets right by the waist, awkwardly jutting out breast pocket, no darting making the waist shapeless.

......but damn this is nice! I'd wear this. Ticks all the right buttons. I think it's a testament that sometimes it's about the overall aesthetic of how something looks, rather than "will this give the illusion of the most masculine, flattering physique"

I think one day I want one just like this.


Flanderian said:


> [HEADING=2]ANTÓNIO SÉRGIO ROSA DE CARVALHO -[/HEADING]
> 
> View attachment 60668
> 
> 
> Duke of Tweed and Prince of Portobello Road.
> [HEADING=2][/HEADING]


The man is hairier than his own tweed jacket, impressive eyebrows and ears.


----------



## Flanderian

delicious_scent said:


> I'm not usually a fan of sack cuts. It feels like someone intentionally chose the most unflattering details on a jacket: square, flapped pockets right by the waist, awkwardly jutting out breast pocket, no darting making the waist shapeless.
> 
> ......but damn this is nice! I'd wear this. Ticks all the right buttons. I think it's a testament that sometimes it's about the overall aesthetic of how something looks, rather than "will this give the illusion of the most masculine, flattering physique"
> 
> I think one day I want one just like this.
> 
> The man is hairier than his own tweed jacket, impressive eyebrows and ears.


Agree about the tweed, less so about the cut. It can look really good on the right guy, though I prefer a set-in breast pocket, even with patch side pockets.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

delicious_scent said:


> I'm not usually a fan of sack cuts. It feels like someone intentionally chose the most unflattering details on a jacket: square, flapped pockets right by the waist, awkwardly jutting out breast pocket, no darting making the waist shapeless.
> 
> ......but damn this is nice! I'd wear this. Ticks all the right buttons. I think it's a testament that sometimes it's about the overall aesthetic of how something looks, rather than "will this give the illusion of the most masculine, flattering physique"
> 
> I think one day I want one just like this.
> 
> The man is hairier than his own tweed jacket, impressive eyebrows and ears.


That is as classic as a Tweed jacket gets! Every well dressed gentleman should have a grey/white Herringbone Tweed in their wardrobe! Very handsome, indeed.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 60687


Snazzy tweed! 👍


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Snazzy tweed! 👍


It's interesting and odd. I almost wonder if it isn't a woman's coat?


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> It's interesting and odd. I almost wonder if it isn't a woman's coat?


Could be, but the cut looks more like a traditional gentleman's cut. I actually recall similar coats from the past, though never common. Obviously the cloth makes it a more casual alternative among coats, perhaps overlapping with the walking coat genre.

Edit: Studying it further, it looks like similar to something Burberry may have once sold.


----------



## 215339

Flanderian said:


> Agree about the tweed, less so about the cut. It can look really good on the right guy, though I prefer a set-in breast pocket, even with patch side pockets.


What would you change about the cut?

I agree on the set-in breast pocket. I like patch breast pockets on the Neapolitan jackets because of the shape and curve


eagle2250 said:


> That is as classic as a Tweed jacket gets! Every well dressed gentleman should have a grey/white Herringbone Tweed in their wardrobe! Very handsome, indeed.


Agreed! This reminds to me to commission one from my tailor in the future. He doesn't carry very many specialty fabrics, but I do recall seeing the usual herringbone tweeds. 


Flanderian said:


> Could be, but the cut looks more like a traditional gentleman's cut. I actually recall similar coats from the past, though never common. Obviously the cloth makes it a more casual alternative among coats, perhaps overlapping with walking coat genre.


Tangent to tweed...I bought a wrap trench coat from TweedyDon a couple years ago, and it always looked off on me.

Too large, and the skirt/sweep flare was the largest I've ever seen. Perhaps this is traditional, but it wasn't to my tastes. It would be accentuated when actually walking. I'm not against drape or A-line silhouettes, but this wasn't a heavy tweed.










I barely wore it, and ironically my sister found it lying around. It fit her better than it fit me! Our shoulders are the same size, and she was shocked at how much range of motion she had with the raglan sleeves, and how comfortable it was. The skirt flare was something she preferred as well, and the functional thru-pockets.

..all of this to say, yes, that looks like a men's cut!


----------



## Flanderian

delicious_scent said:


> What would you change about the cut?
> 
> I agree on the set-in breast pocket. I like patch breast pockets on the Neapolitan jackets because of the shape and curve
> 
> Agreed! This reminds to me to commission one from my tailor in the future. He doesn't carry very many specialty fabrics, but I do recall seeing the usual herringbone tweeds.
> 
> Tangent to tweed...I bought a wrap trench coat from TweedyDon a couple years ago, and it always looked off on me.
> 
> Too large, and the skirt/sweep flare was the largest I've ever seen. Perhaps this is traditional, but it wasn't to my tastes. It would be accentuated when actually walking. I'm not against drape or A-line silhouettes, but this wasn't a heavy tweed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I barely wore it, and ironically my sister found it lying around. It fit her better than it fit me! Our shoulders are the same size, and she was shocked at how much range of motion she had with the raglan sleeves, and how comfortable it was. The skirt flare was something she preferred as well, and the functional thru-pockets.
> 
> ..all of this to say, yes, that looks like a men's cut!


My gosh, that's an elegant coat! 👍 Even if slightly large.

Do you have a jacket under it? If not, its fit should be darn good in my book when worn over one, and shod. Still doesn't look right? Add some swagger to your stroll!

irate:


----------



## Flanderian

Somewhat odd looking fellow, but boffo tweed!


----------



## 215339

Flanderian said:


> My gosh, that's an elegant coat! 👍 Even if slightly large.
> 
> Do you have a jacket under it? If not, its fit should be darn good in my book when worn over one, and shod. Still doesn't look right? Add some swagger to your stroll!
> 
> irate:


I was wearing my thickest shawl cardigan underneath. It looked elegant, but was a bit useless in the overall context of my wardrobe.

I was happy to give it to my sister who would actually make use of it.


----------



## Flanderian

delicious_scent said:


> I was wearing my thickest shawl cardigan underneath. It looked elegant, but was a bit useless in the overall context of my wardrobe.
> 
> I was happy to give it to my sister who would actually make use of it.


Lucky sister!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 60716


Wonderful. I've seen this one before and what most impresses me is how well the four pretty-active patterns all work together - that's an Olympic-level dressing skill on display.

⇧ That's an all but impossible one to follow, so we'll just go with a nice humble offering for today.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Wonderful. I've seen this one before and what most impresses me is how well the four pretty-active patterns all work together - that's an Olympic-level dressing skill on display.
> 
> ⇧ That's an all but impossible one to follow, so we'll just go with a nice humble offering for today.
> View attachment 60720


Love :loveyou:the jacket and vest. (Suit?) But would wish a different shirt and tie.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Love :loveyou:the jacket and vest. (Suit?) But would wish a different shirt and tie.


Agreed - Tweed nice / shirt and tie look wrong.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 60763


Wow! Love it! :loveyou:


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 60810


A palette so fine it overcomes the lapels!


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 60810





Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 60824





Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 60837


Love 'em all! :loveyou:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 60894


Alas, I always want what I can't have. I love the combination of that jacket with that vest, but there is just no way I could ever wear that toasty combination of designs on any day of the year, down here. I would be roasted alive, basting in my own sweat! Ewww.....


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

eagle2250 said:


> Alas, I always want what I can't have. I love the combination of that jacket with that vest, but there is just no way I could ever wear that toasty combination of designs on any day of the year, down here. I would be roasted alive, basting in my own sweat! Ewww.....


Although I enjoy this thread, that is pretty much the way I see most of these items. Between a southerly locale, a shifting climate, and the move to casual comfort, tweed is at risk of becoming but a happy memory for me. I have two two articles of tweed, a herringbone and a glen plaid odd jacket. If I were each of them a few times each year, I am doing well.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 60894


Great tweed! 👍


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 60942


A handsome jacket, for sure and the Ivy cap invests it with a rather sporty air.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 60942


Great tweed.


----------



## Flanderian

Dr. Andre Churchwell.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Dr. Andre Churchwell.
> 
> View attachment 60953


Cool-looking man, in a cool-looking suit, in a cool-looking setting.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Cool-looking man, in a cool-looking suit, in a cool-looking setting.


A very cool bar in Nashville on what must today be anything but cool. Though it's even hotter here.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Cool-looking man, in a cool-looking suit, in a cool-looking setting.


I don't think I've ever seen so many 'collector plates' in a single room, before seeing post #5941.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 60978


A very interesting (And cool) sporting jacket!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## drpeter

Vecchio Vespa said:


> Although I enjoy this thread, that is pretty much the way I see most of these items. Between a southerly locale, a shifting climate, and the move to casual comfort, tweed is at risk of becoming but a happy memory for me. I have two two articles of tweed, a herringbone and a glen plaid odd jacket. If I were each of them a few times each year, I am doing well.


That's one of the good things about life up here, close to the Arctic Circle. Tweed jackets and wool trousers are quite comfortable from Fall through Spring -- and even certain summer evenings! On the other hand, I have two or three fine seersucker jackets, that I hardly ever get to wear. It's tough to find an event or occasion because everyone appears to dress in shorts and T shirts, even when they go to church -- one's Sunday best, LOL.


----------



## drpeter

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 61006


I have never seen a sleeve with a single closed buttonhole at the end, highlighted with thread of a different colour. I can make out the other buttonholes -- they blend into the jacket sleeve because of the blue thread.


----------



## never behind

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 61006


I like the fabric but they had to blow it with the buttonhole.


----------



## Fading Fast

drpeter said:


> I have never seen a sleeve with a single closed buttonhole at the end, highlighted with thread of a different colour. I can make out the other buttonholes -- they blend into the jacket sleeve because of the blue thread.





never behind said:


> I like the fabric but they had to blow it with the buttonhole.


That caught my eye too. I think that was a "thing" several years back at the time that working buttonholes became a thing. I believe it's faded, but haven't really looked in a store since before Covid.


----------



## drpeter

Fading Fast said:


> That caught my eye too. I think that was a "thing" several years back at the time that working buttonholes became a thing. I believe it's faded, but haven't really looked in a store since before Covid.


I believe bespoke jackets and suitcoats always had working buttonholes (surgeon's cuffs as they are called). RTW jackets may have had them off and on. I have an old Paul Stuart glen check sports jacket with working buttonholes, probably from the nineties.

Last week, while thrifting, I picked up a sports jacket, a dark brown silk/wool blend, with closed buttonholes. However, it was very clear that the sleeves had been shortened displacing the buttons from the buttonholes! I could see two closed buttonholes below the array of four buttons on each cuff. The great thing was that you had to look hard to find them, the thread surrounding the buttonholes was identical to the color of the cloth.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Working buttonholes are/should be an option on bespoke, most would opt for, not everyone desires them. 

As for RTW, there are several makers, especially British makers who's jackets come with working cuffs as standard. Becomes a problem when sleeve length needs shortening unless your tailor is competent enough to shorten at sleeve head if adjustment is much greater than 1/4".

Many people find that one arm may be slightly longer which adds to the problem. 

As far as different color stitching goes, there are a few makers who still do this, some place different color or style of button (s). Apparently some like it.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 61006





never behind said:


> I like the fabric but they had to blow it with the buttonhole.


Wonderful tweed! I'll even forgive the minor eccentricity of picking out one button hole in thread to match an accent color in the tweed. I was guilty of at least as egregious an infraction when I used to choose a thread for my monogram cartouche in a color in the pattern of the shirt cloth.


----------



## Flanderian

This tweed really makes the fire superfluous! 😅


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

EclecticSr. said:


> Working buttonholes are/should be an option on bespoke, most would opt for, not everyone desires them.
> 
> As for RTW, there are several makers, especially British makers who's jackets come with working cuffs as standard. Becomes a problem when sleeve length needs shortening unless your tailor is competent enough to shorten at sleeve head if adjustment is much greater than 1/4".
> 
> Many people find that one arm may be slightly longer which adds to the problem.
> 
> As far as different color stitching goes, there are a few makers who still do this, some place different color or style of button (s). Apparently some like it.


I recently got a Southwick suit from O'Connell's that left the mode of buttons up to the buyer. Had it not been both one of the last Southwick's and one of my last dark suits I would have opted for non-working buttons, but it seemed special enough that I got working buttons. I must say they are pretty snazzy. Since it is sort of my weddings and funerals suit, I hope that someone has a fun fall wedding.


----------



## Flanderian

Vecchio Vespa said:


> I recently got a Southwick suit from O'Connell's that left the mode of buttons up to the buyer. Had it not been both one of the last Southwick's and one of my last dark suits I would have opted for non-working buttons, but it seemed special enough that I got working buttons. I must say they are pretty snazzy. Since it is sort of my weddings and funerals suit, I hope that someone has a fun fall wedding.


*Very* cool!


----------



## EclecticSr.

Vecchio Vespa said:


> I recently got a Southwick suit from O'Connell's that left the mode of buttons up to the buyer. Had it not been both one of the last Southwick's and one of my last dark suits I would have opted for non-working buttons, but it seemed special enough that I got working buttons. I must say they are pretty snazzy. Since it is sort of my weddings and funerals suit, I hope that someone has a fun fall wedding.


Let's hope you will have more of the former than the latter .
Always look toward the bright side, wear that suit well.

I don't have any Southwick but do have several of O'Conell's garments, they are great people.
I have always opted for working cuffs on bespoke and MTM and on RTW if sleeves left clean. 
I no longer have a need for any more clothing but, that doesn't stop my compulsive buying.

Eyeing a Donegal jacket and linen safari jacket. We'll see.

Stay cool.


----------



## Fading Fast

Vecchio Vespa said:


> I recently got a Southwick suit from O'Connell's that left the mode of buttons up to the buyer. Had it not been both one of the last Southwick's and one of my last dark suits I would have opted for non-working buttons, but it seemed special enough that I got working buttons. I must say they are pretty snazzy. Since it is sort of my weddings and funerals suit, I hope that someone has a fun fall wedding.


Good for you. I almost always had working buttons put on my MTM suits and sport coats. I doubt anyone ever noticed, but for some odd reason, I just enjoyed knowing they were working button holes. Can't explain it, but there it is.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> Good for you. I almost always had working buttons put on my MTM suits and sport coats. I doubt anyone ever noticed, but for some odd reason, I just enjoyed knowing they were working button holes. Can't explain it, but there it is.


My explanation,, a suit or odd jacket, bespoke or MTM and even OTR, when a tailor can produce hand sewn working button holes that are artistic and far more beautiful than machine made, that enhance the overall look of quality tailoring, why wouldn't you. Same tailor will/can produce non working stitched button holes with same beauty, why waste it

Same applies to hand pick stitching on lapels and pockets.

I dunno, does that make sense, it has to me.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Good for you. I almost always had working buttons put on my MTM suits and sport coats. I doubt anyone ever noticed, but for some odd reason, I just enjoyed knowing they were working button holes. Can't explain it, but there it is.


I've had a couple of inexpensive casual jackets that were made in a form similar to sport/suit jackets which included working sleeve buttons. As the sleeves were a bit long in my size, I'd simply leave them unbuttoned and flip back the cuffs, which I find lazy-man convenient compared to paying more to have the sleeves shortened properly at a tailoring cost similar to the price of the garment.

I'd have coworkers occasionally tease me about my monograms. (Though small and discreet, and placed between chest and waist.) They'd ask me what the initials meant (Though mine.) and depending upon mood I'd respond either too cool, or too chubby.


----------



## drpeter

Flanderian said:


> I've had a couple of inexpensive casual jackets that were made in a form similar to sport/suit jackets which included working sleeve buttons. As the sleeves were a bit long in my size, I'd simply leave them unbuttoned and flip back the cuffs, which I find lazy-man convenient compared to paying more to have the sleeves shortened properly at a tailoring cost similar to the price of the garment.
> 
> I'd have coworkers occasionally tease me about my monograms. (Though small and discreet, and placed between chest and waist.) They'd ask me what the initials meant (Though mine.) and depending upon mood I'd respond either too cool, or too chubby.


LOL, your story reminds me of Cary Grant's response to a question about his middle initial when he plays the character Roger O Thornhill in Hitchcock's _North by Northwest_.

Eve Kendall asks Roger O Thornhill: What does the O stand for? His response: Nothing.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 61067


The Tweed jacket and that vest work incredibly well together. Each could be worn alone, but to a lesser effect.


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## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> The Tweed jacket and that vest work incredibly well together. Each could be worn alone, but to a lesser effect.


I would never have chosen that vest for that sport coat, but I agree, they work well together. I'm not a fan of that tie with the outfit.


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## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 61067


Outstanding tweed! :icon_cheers:


eagle2250 said:


> The Tweed jacket and that vest work incredibly well together. Each could be worn alone, but to a lesser effect.


And tweed on tweed isn't easy to make work, more often.



Fading Fast said:


> I would never have chosen that vest for that sport coat, but I agree, they work well together. I'm not a fan of that tie with the outfit.


Yup, would need a different tie. And while the jacket is fine within the context of Brit/American current fashion, I don't care for the extra high gorge, and narrow lapels. Something a bit more classic would float my boat.


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## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> I don't care for the extra high gorge, and narrow lapels. Something a bit more classic would float my boat.


I've seen several early '60s movies recently, so narrow lapels look okay to me - yes, sadly, I am vulnerable to "peer pressure."

Kidding aside, I do have an Ivy lean that makes me good with narrow lapels, but that gorge seems really high.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Fading Fast said:


> I've seen several early '60s movies recently, so narrow lapels look okay to me - yes, sadly, I am vulnerable to "peer pressure."
> 
> Kidding aside, I do have an Ivy lean that makes me good with narrow lapels, but that gorge seems really high.


I have pretty much that same herringbone in a Southwick sack from O'Connell's. In my book it is perfection. I like it with either a blue or blue/white university stripe OCBD and a not too "out there" challis or madder paisley or neat in a cool weather color like navy, dark red, or rust.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I've seen several early '60s movies recently, so narrow lapels look okay to me - yes, sadly, I am vulnerable to "peer pressure."
> 
> Kidding aside, I do have an Ivy lean that makes me good with narrow lapels, but that gorge seems really high.


Yes, narrower lapels are authentic to the era when TNSIL was fashion. But I prefer them more ample. The narrow ones can look pretty good on a slender man, but they tended, and still tend to make square built, barrel chested guys look very ungainly. (Still square built, no longer barrel chested )

However the shoulder top gorge was a Brit innovation of recent coining, the theory being that "it emphasizes the chest," etc. But really, it's just change for change's sake.

I'll take a cut closer to vintage Brooks -










Or the Williams Coop, from a slightly later period -










But all's fair! 👍


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Yes, narrower lapels are authentic to the era when TNSIL was fashion. But I prefer them more ample. The narrow ones can look pretty good on a slender man, but they tended, and still tend to make square built, barrel chested guys look very ungainly. (Still square built, no longer barrel chested )
> 
> However the shoulder top gorge was a Brit innovation of recent coining, the theory being that "it emphasizes the chest," etc. But really, it's just change for change's sake.
> 
> I'll take a cut closer to vintage Brooks -
> 
> View attachment 61076
> 
> 
> Or the Williams Coop, from a slightly later period -
> 
> View attachment 61077
> 
> 
> But all's fair! 👍


I'd be happy with either of those, but at 6'1", 150lbs, there's no risk of my not-barrel chest swallowing up narrow lapels. 

I've also always like the cut of Dustin Hoffman's sport coat from "The Graduate:"









Or McQueen's from "Bullitt:"


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I'd be happy with either of those, but at 6'1", 150lbs, there's no risk of my not-barrel chest swallowing up narrow lapels.
> 
> I've also always like the cut of Dustin Hoffman's sport coat from "The Graduate:"
> View attachment 61084
> 
> 
> Or McQueen's from "Bullitt:"
> View attachment 61085


Hoffman's jacket looks like something from J. Press of that period. And it's spot-on for early '60's Ivy. Lacking 1" lapels and shoulder top gorges, it'll do very nicely for just about anyone in any era IMHO.

McQueen's jacket is fine, but that's cheating. It's *McQueen*! 

The effect which I find objectionable can be seen well on the fullback sized lad in the Bass ad below.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> McQueen's jacket is fine, but that's cheating. It's *McQueen*!


Touche'.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Touche'.


Looking at the youngster inn the ad above reminds me of a pair of identical twins from high school, the Nardone brothers, each of whom was 6'X3'. They commonly strolled side by side and resembled nothing so much as a walking wall!


----------



## Tweedlover

Flanderian said:


> Outstanding tweed! :icon_cheers:
> 
> And tweed on tweed isn't easy to make work, more often.
> 
> Yup, would need a different tie. And while the jacket is fine within the context of Brit/American current fashion, I don't care for the extra high gorge, and narrow lapels. Something a bit more classic would float my boat.


My only Harris tweed sport coat is probably from the 60's. Has a rather narrow lapel.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## drpeter

Fading Fast said:


> Touche'.


I believe that is the jacket from _Bullitt_. If it is, then it is the one that was auctioned for around $37,000.


----------



## drpeter

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 61087


Could this be a lad in a kilt? Or a lass in a skirt? These days, it could be a lad in a skirt too, LOL.


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## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 61087


Beautiful colors! 👍


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## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Beautiful colors! 👍


Now that is a safe response, anyway a viewer might look at it! Well played, sir.


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## Flanderian

👍 Serious tweed.


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## Flanderian




----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 61112


Wow! Gus Peterson really has his sartorial act together. I would not have thought to pair that shirt with that rig, but having seen it because of Peterson's boldness, I can't imagine any other hued shirt looking as good as that one.


----------



## 215339

eagle2250 said:


> Wow! Gus Peterson really has his sartorial act together. I would not have thought to pair that shirt with that rig, but having seen it because of Peterson's boldness, I can't imagine any other hued shirt looking as good as that one.


It takes skill to pull off a black shirt in menswear for sure. I'd like this even more if he lost the tie for this outfit.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> Wow! Gus Peterson really has his sartorial act together. I would not have thought to pair that shirt with that rig, but having seen it because of Peterson's boldness, I can't imagine any other hued shirt looking as good as that one.


I think if you were to describe what he's wearing to many people they'd think it outlandish, but his sure *eye* and superb sense of personal style makes it all look exactly right. 👍


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 61157


Great tweed & great outfit! :loveyou:


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## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 61218


Very nice, for the most part, but to my eye, those pale yellow cords do not work with that Tweed Jacket as well as I would like to see...yes, no?


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## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Very nice, for the most part, but to my eye, those pale yellow cords do not work with that Tweed Jacket as well as I would like to see...yes, no?


It's not my thing, but being cords, they were the right weight for the Tweed and the yellow thing, which color-wise works with the tan Tweed, struck me as an example of the "go to hell" tic of Tradom. Rep tie, university stripe OCBD and a surcingle belt, with his Tweed sport coat and yellow cords, says to me, this guy is very Trad.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Fading Fast said:


> It's not my thing, but being cords, they were the right weight for the Tweed and the yellow thing, which color-wise works with the tan Tweed, struck me as an example of the "go to hell" tic of Tradom. Rep tie, university stripe OCBD and a surcingle belt, with his Tweed sport coat and yellow cords, says to me, this guy is very Trad.


100%. This fits right in at St. Stephen's in Alexandria, Virginia circa 1966.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> Very nice, for the most part, but to my eye, those pale yellow cords do not work with that Tweed Jacket as well as I would like to see...yes, no?





Fading Fast said:


> It's not my thing, but being cords, they were the right weight for the Tweed and the yellow thing, which color-wise works with the tan Tweed, struck me as an example of the "go to hell" tic of Tradom. Rep tie, university stripe OCBD and a surcingle belt, with his Tweed sport coat and yellow cords, says to me, this guy is very Trad.


My reaction was very much like Eagle's. I think the ensemble looks great, but yellow trousers, which incidentally I like, always speak to me of summer, despite the perfect choice of cloth to pair with the tweed. Make them equally bright rust or emerald green cords, and fuddy-duddy me would just feel more comfortable.


----------



## Fading Fast

Some Classic Hollywood Tweed from 1939's "Calling Dr. Kildare," worn by Lew Ayres. The comely woman is a very young and on the brink of stardom Lana Turner.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast, The comely woman is a very young and on the brink of stardom Lana Turner.

And later a bit of infamy. She grew into one bombshell.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Some Classic Hollywood Tweed from 1939's "Calling Dr. Kildare," worn by Lew Ayres. The comely woman is a very young and on the brink of stardom Lana Turner.
> View attachment 61269
> View attachment 61271
> View attachment 61270


Wow! What a coat! :icon_hailthee:


----------



## Flanderian

For when you just can't get enough tweed!


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ That jacket is outstanding.


----------



## Troones

Flanderian said:


> For when you just can't get enough tweed!
> 
> View attachment 61283


If you don't mind, I'd like to recreate that ensemble in a photo with items I have on hand and post them side-by-side. : )


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## Troones




----------



## Flanderian

Troones said:


> View attachment 61320
> View attachment 61321


Well done! :beer:


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## Fading Fast

Love the shoulders.


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## eagle2250

Troones said:


> View attachment 61320
> View attachment 61321


To my eye, you have the edge in the results of this comparison. Well done, Sir!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 61325
> 
> Love the shoulders.


Another outstanding herringbone tweed coat! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Flanderian

Fresh from the heathered fields of Scotland, the gentleman in the heather colored tweed.


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ It takes real "presence" to carry that outfit off and that man has it, while that same outfit would swallow me whole.


----------



## Fading Fast

Could be Tweed or could be some silk-linen-cotton combo, but either way, the sport coat has a 1930s Apparel Arts vibe to me.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 61358
> 
> Could be Tweed or could be some silk-linen-cotton combo, but either way, the sport coat has a 1930s Apparel Arts vibe to me.


Think it's likely a blend of fibers such as you suggest, or another often described as summer tweed. But it's very handsome in either case, and think it may be by B&Tailor by the cut. 👍 👍 👍


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ I'm impressed that you could back into the tailor - well done Sir.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ I'm impressed that you could back into the tailor - well done Sir.
> 
> View attachment 61380


Love the tweed, and love the jacket! :loveyou:

Reminds me of the jacket on the left, one that Chipp used to sell.


----------



## Flanderian

Another summer tweed. Linen, wool and silk.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Love the tweed, and love the jacket! :loveyou:
> 
> Reminds me of the jacket on the left, one that Chipp used to sell.
> 
> View attachment 61388


I used to know the name for a herringbone pattern with those kind of vertical "stripes" but have forgotten it. Do you happen to know it? And I love that jacket.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I used to know the name for a herringbone pattern with those kind of vertical "stripes" but have forgotten it. Do you happen to know it? And I love that jacket.


I've seen illustrations of similarly striped jackets as "sandwich stipes" though I'm at a loss of what the exact criteria are for that term to apply.

Edit: I went back and checked my archive, and the jacket is from Chipp's 1977 fall and winter catalog. The cloth is a Shetland, and the pattern is simply described as a herringbone stripe. And incidentally, they also show a swatch of the same pattern in a grey more similar to the jacket you posted.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> I've seen illustrations of similarly striped jackets as "sandwich stipes" though I'm at a loss of what the exact criteria are for that term to apply.
> 
> Edit: I went back and checked my archive, and the jacket is from Chipp's 1977 fall and winter catalog. The cloth is a Shetland, and the pattern is simply described as a herringbone stripe. And incidentally, the also show a swatch of the same pattern in a grey more similar to the jacket you posted.


Maybe "Herringbone stripe" is it, but I thought it had a more arcane name. But that's from a thirty-plus-years-ago memory when stores stocked all these Tweed sport coats and had knowledgable salesmen who could tell you their names.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Maybe "Herringbone stripe" is it, but I thought it had a more arcane name. But that's from a thirty-plus-years-ago memory when stores stocked all these Tweed sport coats and had knowledgable salesmen who could tell you their names.


True enough, now you'd be lucky to find a salesman who even knew what a *tweed* was!


----------



## drpeter

Fading Fast said:


> Maybe "Herringbone stripe" is it, but I thought it had a more arcane name. But that's from a thirty-plus-years-ago memory when stores stocked all these Tweed sport coats and had knowledgable salesmen who could tell you their names.


Could it be Estate Tweed? Or perhaps Barleycorn Tweed?


----------



## Flanderian

drpeter said:


> Could it be Estate Tweed? Or perhaps Barleycorn Tweed?


I believe an estate tweed is a tweed of a particular pattern and colors unique to a specific estate and typically worn by its retainers. So while its possible it is so derived, its appearance seems more generic.

A barleycorn tweed is tweed in the pattern depicted below -


----------



## Fading Fast

drpeter said:


> Could it be Estate Tweed? Or perhaps Barleycorn Tweed?





Flanderian said:


> I believe an estate tweed is a tweed of a particular pattern and colors unique to a specific estate and typically worn by its retainers. So while its possible it is so derived, its appearance seems more generic.
> 
> A barleycorn tweed is tweed in the pattern depicted below -
> 
> View attachment 61410


I wasn't familiar with the term "Estate" Tweed - cool info on that.

Many years ago, I owned a gray-green barleycorn sport coat (from Gorsarts in NYC, for those who remember that wonderful store) that I wish I could re-buy today.


----------



## Fading Fast

Some more barleycorn Tweed.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Flanderian said:


> I believe an estate tweed is a tweed of a particular pattern and colors unique to a specific estate and typically worn by its retainers. So while its possible it is so derived, its appearance seems more generic.
> 
> A barleycorn tweed is tweed in the pattern depicted below -
> 
> View attachment 61410


When I think of an estate tweed it is usually herringbone with what looks like an overlay of a very wide windowpane pattern, typically on the order of three or four inches, with very fine lines and often different colors running vertically and horizontally.

https://oconnellsclothing.com/oconn...ne-with-windowpane-hub023ic001ym-sb-owen.html


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Some more barleycorn Tweed.
> View attachment 61415
> View attachment 61416


Not sure of it's significance, but a mystery surrounds that red, white and blue tab on the back of the young man's jacket collar. Any ideas on what that tab might be? :icon_scratch:


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> Some more barleycorn Tweed.
> View attachment 61415
> View attachment 61416


Not sure of it's significance, but a mystery surrounds that red, white and blue tab on the back of the young man's jacket collar. Any ideas on what that tab might be? :icon_scratch:


----------



## FiscalDean

Fading Fast said:


> Some more barleycorn Tweed.
> View attachment 61415
> View attachment 61416
> View attachment 61417
> View attachment 61418


The top two look like birdseye tweed to me but I' no expert. I'll have to ask my wife if she still has her textbook from the textiles course she took oh so many years ago.


----------



## Fading Fast

Vecchio Vespa said:


> When I think of an estate tweed it is usually herringbone with what looks like an overlay of a very wide windowpane pattern, typically on the order of three or four inches, with very fine lines and often different colors running vertically and horizontally.
> 
> https://oconnellsclothing.com/oconn...ne-with-windowpane-hub023ic001ym-sb-owen.html


That's a beautiful Tweed sport coat.



eagle2250 said:


> Not sure of it's significance, but a mystery surrounds that red, white and blue tab on the back of the young man's jacket collar. Any ideas on what that tab might be? :icon_scratch:


I think it's Tommy Hilfiger's logo. I don't know if it's still a thing, but for awhile, some brands were putting little logos "flaps" like that in odd places like the back of a sport coat's collar or the waistband of pants or even on the top ridge of a shoe. That would either have to come off or I wouldn't buy that sport coat. I'm not an anti-logo fanatic, but that one I couldn't abide.


----------



## Fading Fast

FiscalDean said:


> The top two look like birdseye tweed to me but I' no expert. I'll have to ask my wife if she still has her textbook from the textiles course she took oh so many years ago.


I will gladly defer to your wife's textbook. I remember, even back in they day, getting some of the similar ones confused.


----------



## drpeter

Flanderian said:


> I believe an estate tweed is a tweed of a particular pattern and colors unique to a specific estate and typically worn by its retainers. So while its possible it is so derived, its appearance seems more generic.
> 
> A barleycorn tweed is tweed in the pattern depicted below -
> 
> View attachment 61410


Thanks for the examples. I am familiar with both terms used in the sense you described, but I was wondering of these terms were somehow the arcane term Faders had heard in the past. The most common term _striped herringbone_ is the only one I have heard or seen.


----------



## drpeter

Fading Fast said:


> That's a beautiful Tweed sport coat.
> 
> I think it's Tommy Hilfiger's logo. I don't know if it's still a thing, but for awhile, some brands were putting little logos "flaps" look that in odd places like the back of a sport coat's collar or the waistband of pants or even on the top ridge of a shoe. That would either have to come off or I wouldn't buy that sport coat. I'm not an anti-logo fanatic, but that one I couldn't abide.


I agree. I do not like logos of any kind on my clothes (inside brand names are fine) and I do not like to carry visible advertising for the company, especially when I pay them for the article of clothing and not the other way around, LOL. Occasionally it may be unavoidable, as in a shirt you really like, but with a small logo that is discreet. But most of my clothes don't have such advertising.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

drpeter said:


> Thanks for the examples. I am familiar with both terms used in the sense you described, but I was wondering of these terms were somehow the arcane term Faders had heard in the past. The most common term _striped herringbone_ is the only one I have heard or seen.


A similar personal favorite of mine is broken bone, herringbone interspersed with barleycorn stripes.


----------



## drpeter

FiscalDean said:


> The top two look like birdseye tweed to me but I' no expert. I'll have to ask my wife if she still has her textbook from the textiles course she took oh so many years ago.


I have a book called _Harris Tweed_ by Lara Platman which provides information and lovely images of a variety of the tweeds woven on the Lewis and Harris Isles. Information about the handlooming and weaving is provided as well.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Some more barleycorn Tweed.
> View attachment 61415
> View attachment 61416
> View attachment 61417
> View attachment 61418


Great examples. 👍



eagle2250 said:


> Not sure of it's significance, but a mystery surrounds that red, white and blue tab on the back of the young man's jacket collar. Any ideas on what that tab might be? :icon_scratch:


Think it's branding. Why put the label on the inside where nobody can see it, when you can put it on the outside and turn your customer into a walking billboard! 🤢


----------



## Flanderian

Harris Tweed with beautiful wool challis ties. Also from Chipp 1977








-


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Any chance those are from a Huntington catalogue. From my wobbly memory, that feels like they could be.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Any chance those are from a Huntington catalogue. From my wobbly memory, that feels like they could be.


I used to get the Huntington catalog also, and agree that the layout is quite similar. But it's actually from the fall/winter 1977 Chipp catalog, which I still have. :loveyou:


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> I used to get the Huntington catalog also, and agree that the layout is quite similar. But it's actually from the fall/winter 1977 Chipp catalog, which I still have. :loveyou:


Chipp, even better.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Chipp, even better.


When I first became familiar with Chipp in the early '70's they impressed me as similar to J. Press,, but with an added flair, and for me a greater sense of style which I preferred. Of course the history of the firm speaks to that similarity. I know you remember the side by side stores on E44th across the street from Brooks' side entrance. Chipp was always first stop on my sartorial odysseys.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> When I first became familiar with Chipp in the early '70's they impressed me as similar to J. Press,, but with an added flair, and for me a greater sense of style which I preferred. Of course the history of the firm speaks to that similarity. I know you remember the side by side stores on E44th across the street from Brooks' side entrance. Chipp was always first stop on my sartorial odysseys.


With the closing of BB at 44th, it's pretty much all gone (Press has a smaller store nearby, but it's not the same as its old flagship), but in its day, that are was the center of traditional menswear. The number of famous stores in a few block radius was unbelievable. Glad I caught the tail end of that world.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> With the closing of BB at 44th, it's pretty much all gone (Press has a smaller store nearby, but it's not the same as its old flagship), but in its day, that are was the center of traditional menswear. The number of famous stores in a few block radius was unbelievable. Glad I caught the tail end of that world.


Hadn't realized Brooks closed its flagship. How very sad. 😭 But given their financial difficulties, and the large amount of cash the property entailed, I suspect it was inevitable.

Boy, what a resource it was when it was a vital concern. Salesman who knew their stock and how to fit a customer, tailors possessed of rock-of-eye and depthless knowledge of tailoring, a refined and certain level of taste. For years I lusted after one of the solid wood shaft heavy duty English umbrellas that used be sold just inside the entrance I wrote about above, until I finally purchased one perhaps 20 years ago.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Hadn't realized Brooks closed its flagship. How very sad. 😭 But given their financial difficulties, and the large amount of cash the property entailed, I suspect it was inevitable.
> 
> Boy, what a resource it was when it was a vital concern. Salesman who knew their stock and how to fit a customer, tailors possessed of rock-of-eye and depthless knowledge of tailoring, a refined and certain level of taste. For years I lusted after one of the solid wood shaft heavy duty English umbrellas that used be sold just inside the entrance I wrote about above, until I finally purchased one perhaps 20 years ago.


I remember exactly where those umbrellas were. What I didn't know at the time, as a kid out of college in the '80s, was how insanely lucky I was to be learning about clothes from stores like BB. I took its massive inventory and deeply knowledgable salesmen as the norm - what did I know?

One of the first items I bought from BB was a herringbone Tweed sport coat that, in many ways, set me on my natural-shoulder, classic Ivy-inspired path for life. It was the first real sport coat I ever owned, and while I didn't know why back then, I knew it was different and better than any I had owned before. I also felt that BB (and the like) had a holistic approach to a wardrobe that I had never seen or, at least, understood before.

There are so many more important things in life than clothes, I get that, but still, I can reserve a small part of me to feel sad that, that world, that time, those clothes and that place are all but gone.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> There are so many more important things in life than clothes,


There are??!! 



Thanks for the memories!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 61466


👍

Lovely tweed and handsome ensemble. Disturbed only by the top button of the tailored vest left unbuttoned. It's not sprezzatura, because it has become an I-gent cliche. It just looks bad. Were as a sleeveless cardigan worn the same way can look fine.


----------



## Flanderian

The suit jacket on the right is fine wool whipcord, so obviously not a tweed. However the jacket and trousers on the left are lovely Cheviot herringbone. Also from Chipp 1977.


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Based on what I remember from the '80s on Wall St. and what I've seen in many movies from the '50s and '60s, it is amazing how popular the suit on the left was.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Based on what I remember from the '80s on Wall St. and what I've seen in many movies from the '50s and '60s, it is amazing how popular the suit on the left was.


Handsome suit. I'd want one, if not that I want both! I very much liked the cut of Chipps clothing. While both jackets make some concessions to '70's fashion with broader lapels and wider pocket flaps, it was still a beautiful cut. Good luck finding either a cheviot tweed or whipcord at all now, much less ones with that degree of elegance. Beautiful natural shoulders, some had darts, which I also enjoy.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 61513


Nice rig...it all works quite nicely together.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 61513


Great tweed! 👍

I like his choices of clothes to pair with it. 👍

But only wish the young man realized that jackets that pull at the buttoning point are too tight and ruin all his otherwise good work. 😢


----------



## EclecticSr.

Flanderian said:


> Great tweed! 👍
> 
> I like his choices of clothes to pair with it. 👍
> 
> But only wish the young man realized that jackets that pull at the buttoning point are too tight and ruin all his otherwise good work. 😢


I don't know what the fascination is with too tight fitting clothes these days. 
Occasionally I'll notice some TV personality or celeb trot out on stage with garments that look made for him when he was twelve, pants too short and hugging thighs an calves more in the fashion of leotards. Jackets way too tight and sleeves about to burst especially on more athletic physiques. The stuffed sausage look.


----------



## Flanderian

EclecticSr. said:


> I don't know what the fascination is with too tight fitting clothes these days.
> Occasionally I'll notice some TV personality or celeb trot out on stage with garments that look made for him when he was twelve, pants too short and hugging thighs an calves more in the fashion of leotards. Jackets way too tight and sleeves about to burst especially on more athletic physiques. The stuffed sausage look.


While the above fit is among the least egregious in that regard, I'm very familiar with what you describe. Even my wife, who has nothing against an attractive male physique, makes unsolicited remarks as to how poor it looks. I attribute the problem to a fundamental lack of understanding as to nature and purpose of male tailored clothing. To what extent the fashion industry created, or just exaggerated the phenomenon, is questionable.

Guys spend a lot of time and money getting pumped up, and want to show it off. That's fine, but go wear shorts and T-shirt or other athletic gear. That's not what male tailored clothing is about, and shrink-wrapped tailored clothing really doesn't accomplish that, it just looks bad and discordant.


----------



## ran23

It's 90 here, can't wait for Autumn.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian

EclecticSr. said:


> I don't know what the fascination is with too tight fitting clothes these days.
> Occasionally I'll notice some TV personality or celeb trot out on stage with garments that look made for him when he was twelve, pants too short and hugging thighs an calves more in the fashion of leotards. Jackets way too tight and sleeves about to burst especially on more athletic physiques. The stuffed sausage look.


Young and hip, Luca demonstrates how tailored clothing should still be stylish and look good.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Because he readily comes to mind. I'll offer up an example of a well dressed Tv personality,
Larry Kudlow.

I won't go into his choice of tailor or shirt maker, they by now are well known.
If I have one gripe and a minor one, it is the tie knot he favors, the carrot knot.

The man always looks well turned out. It may be a generational thing for me and I suppose some others as well.


Flanderian said:


> Young and hip, Luca demonstrates how tailored clothing should still be stylish and look good.


Perhaps he has had good guidance ? something I think is lost one generation to the next in many cases.

It wasn't wasted on me.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Because he readily comes to mind. I'll offer up an example of a well dressed Tv personality,
Larry Kudlow.

I won't go into his choice of tailor or shirt maker, they by now are well known.
If I have one gripe and a minor one, it is the tie knot he favors, the carrot knot.

The man always looks well turned out. It may be a generational thing for me and I suppose some others as well,


----------



## Flanderian

EclecticSr. said:


> Because he readily comes to mind. I'll offer up an example of a well dressed Tv personality,
> Larry Kudlow.
> 
> I won't go into his choice of tailor or shirt maker, they by now are well known.
> If I have one gripe and a minor one, it is the tie knot he favors, the carrot knot.
> 
> The man always looks well turned out. It may be a generational thing for me and I suppose some others as well.
> 
> Perhaps he has had good guidance ? something I think is lost one generation to the next in many cases.
> 
> It wasn't wasted on me.


Luca? He's the third generation of the Rubinacci family and creative director of Rubinacci tailoring. And indeed, his father Mariano is a very stylish man. Rubinacci was begun in the 30's when Luca's grandfather Genaro became fascinated by 30's English style. He wanted to introduce it to Italy and did so by beginning the business London House in Naples. He wished to keep the drape styling but translate it to lighter Italian cloth and construction. This business eventually became Rubinacci, and he is widely credited with creating the signature Neapolitan cut. Luca grew up in this business, and while not a tailor, he has an in-depth understanding of cut, cloth and tailoring.


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Young and hip, Luca demonstrates how tailored clothing should still be stylish and look good.


He makes me want to retire to San Andrea Apostelo.


----------



## Fading Fast

Cross post with the Ralph thread.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Cross post with the Ralph thread.
> View attachment 61529


Very nice coat! 👍

Sweater is . .. uh, uh, quaint.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Flanderian said:


> Luca? He's the third generation of the Rubinacci family and creative director of Rubinacci tailoring. And indeed, his father Mariano is a very stylish man. Rubinacci was begun in the 30's when Luca's grandfather Genaro became fascinated by 30's English style. He wanted to introduce it to Italy and did so by beginning the business London House in Naples. He wished to keep the drape styling but translate it to lighter Italian cloth and construction. This business eventually became Rubinacci, and he is widely credited with creating the signature Neapolitan cut. Luca grew up in this business, and while not a tailor, he has an in-depth understanding of cut, cloth and tailoring.


I am aware of the Rubinacci family and of course Luca, I should have phrased my response to the Luca refrence better. My response to him having good guidance was more a statement rather than a question.

However, for those unfamiliar, you offer insight to that family and establishment.


----------



## Flanderian

EclecticSr. said:


> I am aware of the Rubinacci family and of course Luca, I should have phrased my response to the Luca refrence better. My response to him having good guidance was more a statement rather than a question.
> 
> However, for those unfamiliar, you offer insight to that family and establishment.


No offence intended! :hidden:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Love the combination of textures, colors and patterns - well done.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Flanderian said:


> No offence intended! :hidden:


None taken


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Love the combination of textures, colors and patterns - well done.
> 
> View attachment 61584


Wish we could see more shots of that coat. If I had sourcing information, I fear I might lose control and buy a coat I would never be able to wear down here.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Love the combination of textures, colors and patterns - well done.
> 
> View attachment 61584


Great tweed! 👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ That looks like a very well-made coat.









Is it odd that the vest buttons and suit-jacket buttons don't match? Love the material. If we still wore suits, I'd be on the hunt for this suit for the fall.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ That looks like a very well-made coat.
> 
> View attachment 61624
> 
> Is it odd that the vest buttons and suit-jacket buttons don't match? Love the material. If we still wore suits, I'd be on the hunt for this suit for the fall.


If those buttons matched (I like the leather), the vest had one more, and the suit coat had a vestigial third button, this would be the star in a TNSIL wardrobe.


----------



## EclecticSr.

To me leather buttons on a suit jacket seem out of place, more suited on an odd jacket. I prefer the vest buttons.
I'm fine with 2 button jacket, I agree a vest would usually carry 6 buttons but as it is I would keep the lowest button closed, on a 6 button most/many would keep it undone. 

Just odd that they would mix buttons. I'm fine with patch pockets on this suit given it's course texture.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ That looks like a very well-made coat.
> 
> View attachment 61624
> 
> Is it odd that the vest buttons and suit-jacket buttons don't match? Love the material. If we still wore suits, I'd be on the hunt for this suit for the fall.


Stunningly handsome.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ That looks like a very well-made coat.
> 
> View attachment 61624
> 
> Is it odd that the vest buttons and suit-jacket buttons don't match? Love the material. If we still wore suits, I'd be on the hunt for this suit for the fall.


Exceptionally handsome suit and tweed! :icon_cheers:

Yes, very odd the buttons are different. Possible explanations might include the vagaries of photography, or more likely the retailer mixed the vest from one suit with the jacket from another, though the cloth is the same.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Nice combo.


----------



## Troones

@Fading Fast

PS. I know it looks like I have too much time on my hands but its my day off and its raining.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Nice combo.
> 
> View attachment 61672


Exceptional! :icon_cheers: Couldn't be better.



Troones said:


> View attachment 61682





Troones said:


> @Fading Fast
> 
> PS. I know it looks like I have too much time on my hands but its my day off and its raining.


Very nice! 👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 61717


Nice colors and textures. 👍


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 61717


Not sure it's Tweed, almost looks hopsack to me (with maybe some silk woven in), but man (as Flanderian says) do I like the colors and textures - really well done outfit (if he'd just fix the tie and button the vest's top button).


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## drpeter

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 61717


This is a good example of something I mentioned in an earlier post -- how the same broad hue, in this case an oatmeal colour, can be used with different textures and patterns in the components (vest, jacket, tie) to create a fine overall effect. Some of the other ensembles above are also good illustrations of this principle.


----------



## drpeter

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 61683


Really lovely -- olives in muted and stronger shades, all set off beautifully by that splendid maroon paisley scarf. The pink shirt (faint windowpane) and the red tie combiine well with the overall effect. A good lesson in dressing!


----------



## drpeter

eagle2250 said:


> Wish we could see more shots of that coat. If I had sourcing information, I fear I might lose control and buy a coat I would never be able to wear down here.


That's one nice thing about living up here in the northern fastnesses -- a long Wisconsin autumn, followed by winter, permits one to wear progressively warmer tweeds. There's something satisfying and comforting to know one can match the changing and deepening colours of the landscape with an assortment of sports jackets and sweaters. It feels so right and appropriate.

Even though I am retired, I take every opportunity to wear my collection of nice tweed sport coats -- lunch with friends, a trip to Madison or Milwaukee or the Twin Cities. And sometimes, for a simple post-prandial drive in the country, especially with a lass who appreciates the fact that you dressed well to be with her.


----------



## eagle2250

drpeter said:


> That's one nice thing about living up here in the northern fastnesses -- a long Wisconsin autumn, followed by winter, permits one to wear progressively warmer tweeds. There's something satisfying and comforting to know one can match the changing and deepening colours of the landscape with an assortment of sports jackets and sweaters. It feels so right and appropriate.
> 
> Even though I am retired, I take every opportunity to wear my collection of nice tweed sport coats -- lunch with friends, a trip to Madison or Milwaukee or the Twin Cities. And sometimes, for a simple post-prandial drive in the country, especially with a lass who appreciates the fact that you dressed well to be with her.


You might consider a trip to Port Washington and a tour of the Allen Edmonds manufacturing facility. They used to offer a really interesting tour.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 61723


Love the tweed itself! :loveyou:


----------



## Flanderian

drpeter said:


> Really lovely -- olives in muted and stronger shades, all set off beautifully by that splendid maroon paisley scarf. The pink shirt (faint windowpane) and the red tie combiine well with the overall effect. A good lesson in dressing!


Thank you. I love the jacket and scarf, but I would have chosen other items for the rest of it.


----------



## drpeter

eagle2250 said:


> You might consider a trip to Port Washington and a tour of the Allen Edmonds manufacturing facility. They used to offer a really interesting tour.


Thanks, I have thought about going there off and on, especially since I have quite a few of their shoes. Good idea.


----------



## Fading Fast

The tie and shirt look horrible together with their stripes fighting and neither would work particularly well with this Tweed anyway.


----------



## eagle2250

drpeter said:


> Thanks, I have thought about going there off and on, especially since I have quite a few of their shoes. Good idea.


Over the years I worked in Chicago, IL, I visited Port Washington almost annually, and on a fair number of occasions took advantage of their anual tent sales and leaving one of them having scored five or six pair of new Allen Edmonds at ridiculously low prices. I don't know if the new owners still hold those sales these days, but if they do, that would be a great time to visit. Good luck in your hunt!


----------



## drpeter

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 61743
> 
> The tie and shirt look horrible together with their stripes fighting and neither would work particularly well with this Tweed anyway.


Agreed.

The jacket is interesting, but it has so much in the way of pattern and texture that I would wear it only with solid colours in all of the other garments. Imagine this jacket, minus the vest, with a plain white shirt, and grey flannels. The tie should be solid navy or burgundy, or, at most, a pindot (white dots on those same colours).


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 61743
> 
> The tie and shirt look horrible together with their stripes fighting and neither would work particularly well with this Tweed anyway.


Wonderful tweed! :icon_cheers:

True on all counts.


----------



## Flanderian

Too nice, and to tweed to be relegated to obscurity.

Cordings and the Tweed Run -


----------



## Fading Fast

I just posted the pic, I got no explanation.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 61803
> 
> I just posted the pic, I got no explanation.


Egad! The rig is memorable....unfortunately. I just can't seem to get that hot mess out of my head, but I will keep trying. LOL.


----------



## Tweedlover

eagle2250 said:


> Egad! The rig is memorable....unfortunately. I just can't seem to get that hot mess out of my head, but I will keep trying. LOL.


It was fine till you get to the shirt and tie-then too much pattern.


----------



## Troones

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 61803
> 
> I just posted the pic, I got no explanation.


Any idea where that shirt jacket (not sure the proper term) comes from? I'm guessing it's a one of a kind bespoke creation. I think it could be very versatile. I could give a good home to a jacket like that.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 61803
> 
> I just posted the pic, I got no explanation.





eagle2250 said:


> Egad! The rig is memorable....unfortunately. I just can't seem to get that hot mess out of my head, but I will keep trying. LOL.


Hmm . . . . :icon_scratch:


----------



## Flanderian

Love the beautiful diamond tweed, and fine with everything else! :icon_cheers:

Shoulder top gorges, not so much.


----------



## Fading Fast

Troones said:


> Any idea where that shirt jacket (not sure the proper term) comes from? I'm guessing it's a one of a kind bespoke creation. I think it could be very versatile. I could give a good home to a jacket like that.


I found the picture on Pinterest. It indicated it was from Ralph Lauren from Fall 2012. I've found that Pinterest's titling is not always accurate, just and FYI.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Troones

Fading Fast said:


> I found the picture on Pinterest. It indicated it was from Ralph Lauren from Fall 2012. I've found that Pinterest's titling is not always accurate, just and FYI.


I appreciate it. I found something similar that had a Tommy Bahama label on it. Again, probably from a decade ago. I'm always late to the party. : /. Pieces like this and the Harris tweed baseball jacket you posted some time back would really fill a gap in my wardrobe.


----------



## Fading Fast

Troones said:


> I appreciate it. I found something similar that had a Tommy Bahama label on it. Again, probably from a decade ago. I'm always late to the party. : /. Pieces like this and the Harris tweed baseball jacket you posted some time back would really fill a gap in my wardrobe.


I really liked that baseball jacket too.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 61828


Great tweeds! 👍


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 61852


Wonderful cloth. :beer:


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 61879


The fellow wearing all those layers of Tweed and knit wool is truly ready for extended northern tier exposure! In central Florida, wearing that, one wouldn't survive long enough to put all those layers on!


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 61912


Stunning!


----------



## Oldsarge

eagle2250 said:


> The fellow wearing all those layers of Tweed and knit wool is truly ready for extended northern tier exposure! In central Florida, wearing that, one wouldn't survive long enough to put all those layers on!


Well tweed was invented in the Scottish Isles so that might be just the ticket for 'a fresh spring day'.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 61912


Wow! 👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## EclecticSr.

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 61923


I would guess bespoke, now by whom?


----------



## Flanderian

EclecticSr. said:


> I would guess bespoke, now by whom?


Enquiring minds want to know? :icon_scratch:

Agree, but I don't know by whom.

I really like this as much for its function as for its looks. IMO, it sort of bridges the gap between a conventional tailored sport jacket, and more casual outdoor wear. Tons of ways to wear this thing. 👍


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 61939


The perfect Herringbone Tweed!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 61939


Wonderful tweed! :loveyou:


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 61953


Very nice! 👍


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 61997


Sorry, can't get past the neck stubble. 🥲


----------



## Flanderian

This guy had neck stubble too, but then I decapitated him! 😁










And instructive overall. A neat denim shirt looks great with a tweed jacket, and while this tie works as to color and pattern, a less dressy choice of perhaps a wool challis would work better for me. But more significantly, this has an exception that proves the rule; a white cotton PS goes with everything, except possibly a denim shirt. An oxymoron of modes.


----------



## Flanderian

Simple can be good.


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Nice.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Nice.
> View attachment 62052


The tweed itself is lovely, but to paraphrase Emperor Joseph II, "Too many patterns." Would that a plain ecru or blue shirt might have been chosen.


----------



## Fading Fast

Vecchio Vespa said:


> The tweed itself is lovely, but to paraphrase Emperor Joseph II, "Too many patterns." Would that a plain ecru or blue shirt might have been chosen.


Not sure, but I think that might be an overcoat, not a suit jacket. If the latter, then I'm on board with you as the shirt pattern and suit jacket pattern don't work well, but if it's an overcoat, then it's no big deal. I like the scarf just as a scarf - nice Fair Isle.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Nice.
> View attachment 62052


Looking at it from a component perspective, I like the parts, but I am not sure about the whole! LOL


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Not sure, but I think that might be an overcoat, not a suit jacket. If the latter, then I'm on board with you as the shirt pattern and suit jacket pattern don't work well, but if it's an overcoat, then it's no big deal. I like the scarf just as a scarf - nice Fair Isle.





eagle2250 said:


> Looking at it from a component perspective, I like the parts, but I am not sure about the whole! LOL


Great scarf and nice coat/jacket, would love each, but wouldn't pair them.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Beautiful Tweed, you can feel the heft of it.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 62080


The tweed is spectacular, but so is that tie.


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 62080


A stunningly handsome Tweed jacket and vest, for sure, but realizing the outside air temps around here almost never drop below 50 degrees, the weight of that Tweed almost scares me. Do you have anything in a tropical weight cotton poplin? LOL.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Beautiful Tweed, you can feel the heft of it.
> 
> View attachment 62082


Great tweed, and outfit! Love the sweater! :icon_cheers:



eagle2250 said:


> A stunningly handsome Tweed jacket and vest, for sure, but realizing the outside air temps around here almost never drop below 50 degrees, the weight of that Tweed almost scares me. Do you have anything in a tropical weight cotton poplin? LOL.


Might I suggest an autumnal visit to Norway! 

By the beginning of October I think you should find some appealing weather in which to enjoy such.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 62166


Absolutely gorgeous tweed! :loveyou:


----------



## Fading Fast

Tyrone Power in Tweed


----------



## drpeter

eagle2250 said:


> A stunningly handsome Tweed jacket and vest, for sure, but realizing the outside air temps around here almost never drop below 50 degrees, the weight of that Tweed almost scares me. Do you have anything in a tropical weight cotton poplin? LOL.


Some years ago, I'd heard that Harris Tweeds were getting substantially thinner and lightweight, so that people could wear them indoors where there was central heating, but still provide warmth in cooler temperatures outside. You could look into this.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Tyrone Power in Tweed
> View attachment 62172
> View attachment 62173
> View attachment 62174


Wow! What a tweed! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

There's too much going on in this outfit for me, but the (I think) Tweed sport coat looks nice.


----------



## Oldsarge

Elegant simplicity


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 62269


Exceptionally nice! :loveyou:

Not that it matters as to its inclusion, but just a point of interest, is this tweed or flannel? I've wondered the same thing about other images I've encountered, as it also looks a bit like a heavy weight brushed flannel. It's really tough for me to tell the difference between them.

But then, I was over sixty before I learned that Saxony is just a term for flannel cloth that is patterned.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Exceptionally nice! :loveyou:
> 
> Not that it matters as to its inclusion, but just a point of interest, is this tweed or flannel? I've wondered the same thing about other images I've encountered, as it also looks a bit like a heavy weight brushed flannel. It's really tough for me to tell the difference between them.
> 
> But then, I was over sixty before I learned that Saxony is just a term for flannel cloth that is patterned.


I'm with you, I don't know and, as you note, that goes for many items I, and some others, post here. I take it as a live-and-let-live thing: if the item is in the "spirit" of the thread, go for it, as, after all, we're just looking a pictures of clothes and sharing thoughts here.

We've had a few member over the years who get worked up if a thread's title isn't followed exactly, but again, what are we really doing here? Like you, I thought this one was a really nice combo and I know I would never have come up with on my own.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

Cross post with the "Trad In Movies" thread

Tweed from the 1970 movie "The Owl and the Pussycat" (which I have never seen and will never see as one of my goals in life is to never see another movie with Barbara Streisand in it).

Note his Tweed-reversible-raincoat, a classic item that has all but disappeared. It doesn't show in this pic, but the "reverse" side of his coat is a tan cotton raincoat.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Fading Fast said:


> Cross post with the "Trad In Movies" thread
> 
> Tweed from the 1970 movie "The Owl and the Pussycat" (which I have never seen and will never see as one of my goals in life is to never see another movie with Barbara Streisand in it).
> 
> Note his Tweed-reversible-raincoat, a classic item that has all but disappeared. It doesn't show in this pic, but the "reverse" side of his coat is a tan cotton raincoat.
> 
> View attachment 62333
> View attachment 62335


I had a Polo reversible coat similar if not the same, raincoat on one side, tweed the other.
I beleive I gave it to my brother some years ago, never wore it felt too bulky.

I agrre about Streisand, Lost Segal this year.


----------



## Fading Fast

EclecticSr. said:


> I had a Polo reversible coat similar if not the same, raincoat on one side, tweed the other.
> I beleive I gave it to my brother some years ago, never wore it felt too bulky.
> 
> I agrre about Streisand, Lost Segal this year.


I owned one of them in the '90s and remember it as being a bit "big and bulky" as you said, but to be fair, everything was being cut big and bulky at that time. It wasn't a perfect solution, but I did like being able to wear a Tweed coat on days "it might rain" but still have the raincoat option if it did.

I also remember wearing it on some business trips where its two-in-one feature was nice. That said, I don't remember what happened to it (I'll bet it went to Goodwill at some point) and when I couldn't easily replace it (hard to find it in a 40L), I just gave up and will admit, I haven't missed it that much.

I felt bad about Segal when it happened; he's in a surprising number of movies. Nice that he made it to 87 though.


----------



## EclecticSr.

eagle2250 said:


> LOL. I made a similar comittment to not watching any future Jane Fonda movies after she proved herself so richly deserving of the title Hanoi Jane. Frankly, I don't think that I've missed anything worth watching.


I beleive evan her father couldn't get along with her.
Yet who would Jane whoseshamacallit be without her fathers name.
Certainly not any great shakes as an actress.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

EclecticSr. said:


> I beleive evan her father couldn't get along with her.
> Yet who would Jane whoseshamacallit be without her fathers name.
> Certainly not any great shakes as an actress.


It is understandable how many would not like her, and she has certainly been in some horrid roles. However, I found her performance in Klute pretty compelling.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Vecchio Vespa said:


> It is understandable how many would not like her, and she has certainly been in some horrid roles. However, I found her performance in Klute pretty compelling.


Then you can understand that my post about her acting was superficial.
It's her fathers name recognition that she used to promote herself, otherwise a would be unknown.

If she couldn't get along with him based on her beleifs, she should have changed her name and sought a different career, maybe as a cosmetic salesesperson behind a counter at Lacy's, but no, ....fame and fortune on the back of the name Fonda, a duplicitous (inject your own adjectictives ). I'll reserve mine for the sake of the forum and decorum.

Aiding and abetting the enemy was once considered punishable by death, I guess these days 
not even deserving of a slap on the wrist, that is, if you're of a certain group.

Never saw klute and no intention to do so.

I could go on about these Hollywood brats that live off their family's name while promoting themslves as scholars and political geniuses who "made it on their own". Then those who beleive their fame gives them creds as being brilliant political geniuses, being propped up by other self appointed media geniuses who wouldn't know how to spell "journalist".

Someone once said " shut up and sing". Now my words, " you haven't lived long enough to know what all you're bu*^&#@@*&g about.

The list is about as long as my arm and to keep this about clothes I'm a 34.5" sleeve.

Nothing personal my freind, just a matter of understanding. PC not my thing
but respect your opinions .


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 62319
> 
> 
> View attachment 62320


Nice stuff! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> LOL. I made a similar comittment to not watching any future Jane Fonda movies after she proved herself so richly deserving of the title Hanoi Jane. Frankly, I don't think that I've missed anything worth watching.


I also formed a long lasting antipathy as I learned of her journey on AFN upon entering our mess hall, part of my buck sergeant wasteland. Stopped for a cup of coffee, one of only two palatable items along with C-ration fruit cake. :icon_saint7kg:


----------



## Flanderian

Vecchio Vespa said:


> It is understandable how many would not like her, and she has certainly been in some horrid roles. However, I found her performance in Klute pretty compelling.


Apropos of nothing, there was for many years a general store on Route 100 in Eden Vermont named Klute's. The name so well typifying the establishment. True Vermont general stores are a treasure. Need beer, etc.? Got it! Guns, chain saws? Got it! A pound of baloney, wool long johns? Got it!


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 62375


That is exceptional! :loveyou:


----------



## David J. Cooper

Is this really the place for a Jane Fonda bashing?


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Can't imagine where I could wear it, but it is impressive.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Can't imagine where I could wear it, but it is impressive.
> 
> View attachment 62412


Very nice! 👍

Wear it to a bistro in Chelsea mid-November and scare the Dickens out of 'em! :icon_saint7kg:


----------



## Flanderian

The rare diamond tweed -


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ I love that "dove" grey diamond-weave fabric (love the classic herringbone too, but the diamond weave is rare).


----------



## Flanderian

The Mad Tweedster at Alice's party.


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ A bit much for a suit for my taste, but still impressive Tweed and I love the Fair Isle.

Walter Pigeon in Tweed.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ A bit much for a suit for my taste, but still impressive Tweed and I love the Fair Isle.
> 
> Walter Pigeon in Tweed.
> View attachment 62515
> View attachment 62516
> View attachment 62517


Man certainly knew his tweed! 👍


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 62573


Looks good! :beer:

(Guess that's why I have its twin in Harris Tweed. )


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 62626


Great looking Tweed, but is he actually wearing a short sleeved T-shirt under that Tweed...and a pocket square, no less. The gentleman needs to get himself a collared shirt and get rid of that pocket square with a rig that casual.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 62618





Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 62626


Sharp tweeds! 👍



eagle2250 said:


> Great looking Tweed, but is he actually wearing a short sleeved T-shirt under that Tweed...and a pocket square, no less. The gentleman needs to get himself a collared shirt and get rid of that pocket square with a rig that casual.


+1!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 62663


*Very* nice! :loveyou:

I've read some deride both elbow patches and ticket pockets on jackets (As did the much missed member Balfour terming ticket pockets "detestable." AKA hence forth known as a detestable pocket!) but on the right jacket each can be just right. And on this jacket they're the perfect embellishment enriching and raising the aesthetic to a higher level.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> *Very* nice! :loveyou:
> 
> I've read some deride both elbow patches and ticket pockets on jackets (As did the much missed member Balfour terming ticket pockets "detestable." AKA hence forth known as a detestable pocket!) but on the right jacket each can be just right. And on this jacket they're the perfect embellishment enriching and raising the aesthetic to a higher level.


I'm with you. I think of myself as a trad-leaning guy. I like the general construct of the trad wardrobe and feature, but am fine with variations on the theme and all. From the pictorial history, even during Ivy's heyday, there were a lot of variations and features not today considered part of the Ivy canon that you'll see in Ivy clothes, even from places like Press or BB from that time.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I'm with you. I think of myself as a trad-leaning guy. I like the general construct of the trad wardrobe and feature, but am fine with variations on the theme and all. From the pictorial history, even during Ivy's heyday, there were a lot of variations and features not today considered part of the Ivy canon that you'll see in Ivy clothes, even from places like Press or BB from that time.


I find that very true.

A great deal of variety, experimentation and playfulness during Ivy's heyday as fashion. Was delighted to find that J. Press still regularly includes a few ascots for sale each season, as though now largely forgotten, it was a common item during Ivy's reign. So much so that I would often wear one as a 15 year-old school boy. And though emerging from the Heart of Darkness, never saw a batted eye.

irate:


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## drpeter

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 62618


That's Simon Crompton of Permanent Style with a vintage folio picked up from Bentleys, an antiques shop in London. I really like the folder with its aged look. The jacket is a nice contrast to the old leather.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 62721


That's a great tweed, and an outfit perfectly assembled! :loveyou:


----------



## Flanderian

Tweed over brogue boots -


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Boy those trousers and shoes together look nice.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Boy those trousers and shoes together look nice.


I think so too. A very nice harmony of color, texture and form.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 62777


Very handsome tweed!

But I'm having difficulty getting beyond the fit. Though the exact nature of this handsome garment can't be clearly seen, it looks like a shirt jacket. And while I realize it's worn over a flannel shirt, IMHO, a shirt jacket, which is in fact an over shirt, needs to be cut oversized, and should be looser and able to flow, The way in which this one looks stretched over the upper arm, and tight through the chest, seems inimical to the desired effect.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Very handsome tweed!
> 
> But I'm having difficulty getting beyond the fit. Though the exact nature of this handsome garment can't be clearly seen, it looks like a shirt jacket. And while I realize it's worn over a flannel shirt, IMHO, a shirt jacket, which is in fact an over shirt, needs to be cut oversized, and should be looser and able to flow, The way in which this one looks stretched over the upper arm, and tight through the chest, seems inimical to the desired effect.


Like you, I love the material, but struggled with exactly what it is - I think you are correct, it's a shirt jacket - and the fit, as with so many things today, is too tight.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Like you, I love the material, but struggled with exactly what it is - I think you are correct, it's a shirt jacket - and the fit, as with so many things today, is too tight.


Pity too. It's a great looking jacket, and I suspect the wearer just needs to go up a size or two. Very possibly the photographer deliberately stuck the subject in one too small, as is the fashion.


----------



## Oldsarge

He looks like he's bundling against the cold.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 62837


Uhh . . . . :icon_scratch:

Great looking jacket! :icon_saint7kg:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Uhh . . . . :icon_scratch:
> 
> Great looking jacket! :icon_saint7kg:


My thoughts exactly.



Flanderian said:


> View attachment 62840


 That looks like one well-made garment.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> My thoughts exactly.
> 
> That looks like one well-made garment.


B&Tailor. Love the colors! :loveyou:


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 62837


Someone's been thrifting.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 62870


I like the Tweed and I love the sweater, but not together. Individually they are great additions to a gentleman's wardrobe!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 62870


Very nice tweed and Fairisle, but needs to size up. 👍

And what Eagle said.



eagle2250 said:


> I like the Tweed and I love the sweater, but not together. Individually they are great additions to a gentleman's wardrobe!


+1!


----------



## Flanderian

Gun club check -


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Gun club check -
> 
> View attachment 62877


Classic coat, but the trousers look equally beautiful. I rarely see anyone wearing them anymore and, if I do, it's always at a "dressy" event, but I love that there was a time when grey flannel trousers were once a daily "go to" choice for men that rivaled chinos.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Classic coat, but the trousers look equally beautiful. I rarely see anyone wearing them anymore and, if I do, it's always at a "dressy" event, but I love that there was a time when grey flannel trousers were once a daily "go to" choice for men that rivaled chinos.


Medium grey flannel. The single most versatile pair of tailored wool trousers I know of. Wear them with anything as long as it's not hot. The traditional man's khakis before there were khakis!



Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 62979


I'd need a tie with a different colorway, but beautifully done!

And a glorious tweed!


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## Flanderian




----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 62994


If you would be so good as to send this to my address...


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> If you would be so good as to send this to my address...


Maybe after I break it in for you for a while first! 



Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 63057


A mighty tweed! 👍

"You inspire me!"






Another fuzzy article -


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 63081


Well done! 👍



Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 63103


Wow! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Fading Fast

Black Watch Harris Tweed from Ben Silver.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 63112
> 
> Black Watch Harris Tweed from Ben Silver.


Great tweed, colors and pairings! :loveyou:


----------



## Flanderian

Great teal window pane, but I'd want a different tie.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Flanderian said:


> Great tweed, colors and pairings! :loveyou:


Looks like a Ralph Lauren ad in which the PRL creative machine was not participating.


----------



## Flanderian

Vecchio Vespa said:


> Looks like a Ralph Lauren ad in which the PRL creative machine was not participating.


I think perhaps Ben Silver.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Flanderian said:


> I think perhaps Ben Silver.


I was aware it was Ben Silver, but the textiles and knitting reminded me of Ralph at his best, and I was mightily pleased to see such items photographed without ripped jeans, orphaned suit coats, gargantuan belt buckles, slalom course gig lines, teddy bears, or pouting models.


----------



## Flanderian

Vecchio Vespa said:


> I was aware it was Ben Silver, but the textiles and knitting reminded me of Ralph at his best, and I was mightily pleased to see such items photographed without ripped jeans, orphaned suit coats, gargantuan belt buckles, slalom course gig lines, teddy bears, or pouting models.


Got it! :idea:

+1!


----------



## Flanderian

Tweed Teba jacket of gorgeous Fox Brothers tweed. From Leffot -










https://leffot.com/products/justo-gimeno-teba-jacket-woodland-pre-order


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Tweed Teba jacket of gorgeous Fox Brothers tweed. From Leffot -
> 
> View attachment 63120
> 
> 
> https://leffot.com/products/justo-gimeno-teba-jacket-woodland-pre-order


Oooo, gauntlet sleeves, too.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Oooo, gauntlet sleeves, too.


Shirt sleeves, actually. The Teba is an unconstructed cross between a tailored and shirt jacket.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Maybe after I break it in for you for a while first!
> 
> A mighty tweed! 👍
> 
> "You inspire me!"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another fuzzy article -
> 
> View attachment 63063


Lou Holtz is a patient man....LOL!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 63142


Magnificent! Both tweed and clothing. :icon_cheers:

Don't know if part of 3-piece, or jacket with matching vest. Would work as either. Tie is fine, but I bet I could find something more interesting to take advantage of the rich colors in the tweed.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> Lou Holtz is a patient man....LOL!


This series of commercials still cracks me up. 

Reminds me of a lot of classic skits, and is well-earned parody. Every time I think customer service can't possibly get worse, *it does! :laughing:*


----------



## Flanderian

It's almost *TWEED SEASON!* :happy:










This is when things could become really dangerous at my tailor's shop. "Maybe a jacket of the chestnut glen check at the bottom with garnet overplaid. And make it up as 3-button, and how about a throat latch and ticket pocket?" "No . . . . I'd rather the gun club check in brown, ruby and moss on tan, 2-button, patch llapped lower pockets and set-in breast pocket." "No . . . . a jacket like the finished one of the rough earth tone tweed check, but let's make it a suit. No . . . . . a 3-piece suit, and add a pair of medium grey flannel trousers to switch off with it!"

Ahh . . . . heck! Just make one of each! :crazy:


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Magnificent! Both tweed and clothing. :icon_cheers:
> 
> Don't know if part of 3-piece, or jacket with matching vest. Would work as either. Tie is fine, but I bet I could find something more interesting to take advantage of the rich colors in the tweed.


I'll go a step further, while the tie technically works, I dislike its blunt brown-ess and shine with that beautiful tweed.



Flanderian said:


> It's almost *TWEED SEASON!* :happy:
> 
> View attachment 63150
> 
> 
> This is when things could become really dangerous at my tailor's shop. "Maybe a jacket of the chestnut glen check at the bottom with garnet overplaid. And make it up as 3-button, and how about a throat latch an ticket pocket?" "No . . . . I'd rather the gun club check in brown, ruby and moss on tan, 2-button, patch llapped lower pockets and set-in breast pocket." "No . . . . a jacket like the finished one of the rough earth tone tweed check, but let's make it suit. No . . . . . a 3-piece suit, and add a pair of medium grey flannel trousers to switch off with it!"
> 
> Ahh . . . . heck! Just make one of each! :crazy:


I never did custom, but did MTM a lot. It's so much fun to go at the start of the season and pick out fabric and details for a new sport coat, suit or trousers. There are some beautiful fabrics in those swatches in your pic.


----------



## never behind

Flanderian said:


> It's almost *TWEED SEASON!* :happy:
> 
> View attachment 63150
> 
> 
> This is when things could become really dangerous at my tailor's shop. "Maybe a jacket of the chestnut glen check at the bottom with garnet overplaid. And make it up as 3-button, and how about a throat latch and ticket pocket?" "No . . . . I'd rather the gun club check in brown, ruby and moss on tan, 2-button, patch llapped lower pockets and set-in breast pocket." "No . . . . a jacket like the finished one of the rough earth tone tweed check, but let's make it a suit. No . . . . . a 3-piece suit, and add a pair of medium grey flannel trousers to switch off with it!"
> 
> Ahh . . . . heck! Just make one of each! :crazy:


So many lovely tweeds. I really want that green in the middle with the overcheck.


----------



## Oldsarge

100% cashmere.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 63178


I like what I am looking at, but cannot recall what the weave is that I am looking at? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> I like what I am looking at, but cannot recall what the weave is that I am looking at? :icon_scratch:


I knew it at one time - Barleycorn, maybe, but we need @Flanderian or @Matt S to tell us.


----------



## Matt S

Fading Fast said:


> I knew it at one time - Barleycorn, maybe, but we need @Flanderian or @Matt S to tell us.


That's beautiful. It's known as barleycorn, bell hopsack or bell celtic.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 63178


Magnificent tweed and ensemble! :icon_hailthee:



eagle2250 said:


> I like what I am looking at, but cannot recall what the weave is that I am looking at? :icon_scratch:





Fading Fast said:


> I knew it at one time - Barleycorn, maybe, but we need @Flanderian or @Matt S to tell us.





Matt S said:


> That's beautiful. It's known as barleycorn, bell hopsack or bell celtic.


I know it as barleycorn also. In this version the pattern is particularly vivid, almost 3 dimensional and I love it! :loveyou:


----------



## Fading Fast

Matt S said:


> That's beautiful. It's known as barleycorn, bell hopsack or bell celtic.





Flanderian said:


> Magnificent tweed and ensemble! :icon_hailthee:
> 
> I know it as barleycorn also. In this version the pattern is particularly vivid, almost 3 dimensional and I love it! :loveyou:


Thank you both.

I bought, in the early '90s (maybe late '80s), a dark-olive barleycorn sport coat from Gorsarts (a two-store BB-style discounter in NYC) that I loved, wore out and gave to Goodwill. I tried for years to replace it and finally gave up.


----------



## Flanderian

Gotta be a tweed in there somewhere! :icon_saint7kg:


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 63221
> 
> 
> View attachment 63223


Nice! 👍


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 63236


Want it! :loveyou:


----------



## Flanderian

Nice Norfolk on Dr. Andre!


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ nice to see on IRL


----------



## EclecticSr.

Flanderian said:


> Nice Norfolk on Dr. Andre!
> 
> View attachment 63240


Nice everything on brothers Churchwell.
Class that goes beyond things sartorial. Distinguished gentlemen.


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Want it! :loveyou:


Me, too!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 63280


Outstanding tweed! 👍


----------



## Oldsarge

this knocks me out.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 63351


*YOWZER! :happy:*


----------



## Flanderian

A bold plaid -


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 63396


A handsome garment indeed, but way too warm for wear in these parts.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 63396


Very handsome!

I find it unusual to see an evolution of traditional modes that improves upon the original. This is one. 👍


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Very handsome!
> 
> I find it unusual to see an evolution of traditional modes that improves upon the original. This is one. 👍


It looks terribly much like a tweed safari jacket. That would be really useful for sitting in a hochsitz hunting stag and boar in Europe. I like it.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> It looks terribly much like a tweed safari jacket. That would be really useful for sitting in a hochsitz hunting stag and boar in Europe. I like it.


I think that's what it is. But the collar is different than the typical shirt collar of a bush/safari jacket,, and the lining in a complimentary cloth an embelllishment, and the both look good and are functional.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 63427


*YOWZER! :happy:*


----------



## Flanderian

Interesting tweed - looks rather like the tattersalls sometimes made up for sporting waistcoats.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 63444


Rugged! I love the coat, I like the quilted and zippered vest and the pocket square with this casual rig and the fist in the pocket continue to bedevil me to no end. Real men listen to their Mommas and their Drill Sergeants and keep their hands out of their pockets! LOL. :crazy:


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Rugged! I love the coat, I like the quilted and zippered vest and the pocket square with this casual rig and the fist in the pocket continue to bedevil me to no end. Real men listen to their Mommas and their Drill Sergeants and keep their hands out of their pockets! LOL. :crazy:


In the grey family, from the fall on, I regularly wear a similar vest under my herringbone sport coat. It's, IMHO, a nice combination of classic Trad with an item that's been around but has a more modern vibe.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 63444


Nice tweed! 👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 63459


Countryside elegance! The bold stripe in the tie against the subtle checks in the shirt and waistcoat is superb. I believe I could assemble a similar look in different hues. When the weather becomes suitable, I shall.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Countryside elegance! The bold stripe in the tie against the subtle checks in the shirt and waistcoat is superb. I believe I could assemble a similar look in different hues. When the weather becomes suitable, I shall.


I agree, but feel it's near thing. I'd want to change the PS to something with a bit lower tonal contrast.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> I agree, but feel it's near thing. I'd want to change the PS to something with a bit lower tonal contrast.


Or just do without a pocket square.

What?

Nothing.

This message is brought to you by the Committee for Limited Pocket Square Use.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Or just do without a pocket square.
> 
> What?
> 
> Nothing.
> 
> This message is brought to you by the Committee for Limited Pocket Square Use.


A jacket without a PS, is like pizza, but no ice cream!


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧
> 
> View attachment 63473


Superlative tweed! :icon_cheers:

But PS makes me want to join your Committee for Limited Pocket Square Use. :icon_saint7kg:

*SHAZAM!!!







*


----------



## Flanderian

Needs a different tie. Color is good, but Ottoman silk tie is too dressy. I'd like to see it in wool.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Superlative tweed! :icon_cheers:
> 
> But PS makes me want to join your Committee for Limited Pocket Square Use. :icon_saint7kg:
> 
> *SHAZAM!!!
> View attachment 63486
> *


It was our pocket square conversation yesterday that made me choose today's pic.

I don't like PS with Tweed in general, but thought that was a particularly bad choice.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> It was our pocket square conversation yesterday that made me choose today's pic.
> 
> I don't like PS with Tweed in general, but thought that was a particularly bad choice.


And, IMHO, correct you are!


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 63492


👍

I enjoy wearing a Harris Tweed flat cap with my pea coat also.

I don't do the pipe.

Wharfman?


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 63515


The gentleman pictured above is wearing the Tweed about as well as it can be worn and I really do like that DB vest. I don't recall ever owning a DB vest, but I do like that one. Perhaps an old dog can learn some new tricks.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 63515


Exceptional! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Flanderian

Hmm . . . ? :icon_scratch:

Odd, but interesting -


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ I don't think it really works, but applaud the experiment.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ I don't think it really works, but applaud the experiment.
> 
> View attachment 63545


....but it could have worked, at least marginally, if he had not been trying so hard to project 'the carelessly cool look!'


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> ....but it could have worked, at least marginally, if he had not been trying so hard to project 'the carelessly cool look!'


My bad, as my comment was referring to @Flanderian "black" Tweed above mine.

As to the pic I posted, I think he was trying to do too many "cool" things, but I think it works on him in a "I'm dressing this way cause I like it" way. He's older and looks happy in his clothes, which are nicer than what most wear today, so for me, it works on him.

But to your point, I'm not going to wear a popped collar with an ascot and rolled-up sport coat sleeves as I'd be spotted at a hundred yards as trying to hard.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> My bad, as my comment was referring to @Flanderian "black" Tweed above mine.
> 
> As to the pic I posted, I think he was trying to do too many "cool" things, but I think it works on him in a "I'm dressing this way cause I like it" way. He's older and looks happy in his clothes, which are nicer than what most wear today, so for me, it works on him.
> 
> But to your point, I'm not going to wear a popped collar with an ascot and rolled-up sport coat sleeves as I'd be spotted at a hundred yards as trying to hard.


Agreed on all counts! 👍


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> My bad, as my comment was referring to @Flanderian "black" Tweed above mine.
> 
> As to the pic I posted, I think he was trying to do too many "cool" things, but I think it works on him in a "I'm dressing this way cause I like it" way. He's older and looks happy in his clothes, which are nicer than what most wear today, so for me, it works on him.
> 
> But to your point, I'm not going to wear a popped collar with an ascot and rolled-up sport coat sleeves as I'd be spotted at a hundred yards as trying to hard.


The bad is on me...I should have looked at your original post more closely I completely overlooked the little arrow pointng to the post above yours. Sorry.


----------



## Flanderian

Cheviot wool tick weave tweed from natural colored yarns. Endlessly versatile -


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 63618


Outstanding tweed and accoutrements! :icon_hailthee:

It's cousin? 

In Harris Tweed.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge

Yes, yes, I know. Drop the sweater.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 63679





Oldsarge said:


> Yes, yes, I know. Drop the sweater.





Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 63737


Nice! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Rare parquet pattern tweed -


----------



## Oldsarge

Donegal


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Rare parquet pattern tweed -
> 
> View attachment 63741
> 
> 
> View attachment 63742


Love the pattern. It pops occasionally in the movies from the '30s-'50s.


----------



## Fading Fast

On the subject of interesting patterns, I saw this coat in a movie, "Cloudburst," playing on TCM the other day. I didn't watch the movie yet (recorded it). The coat is a big, heavy and long overcoat with a flap breast pocket, but these are the only pics of it I could find. Anyone know the name of its pattern?


----------



## FiscalDean

Fading Fast said:


> On the subject of interesting patterns, I saw this coat on a movie, "Cloudburst," playing on TCM the other day. I didn't watch the movie yet (recorded it). The coat is a big, heavy and long overcoat with a flap breast pocket, but these are the only pics of it I could find. Anyone know the name of its pattern?
> View attachment 63779
> 
> View attachment 63780


Might be crows foot


----------



## never behind

I got a J Press email today that their fall 2021 collection was out. When I browsed through it, there were no tweed jackets. There are some on the website, but only two or so with much sizing availability. Hopefully this is supply issues and not the start of a end. I know Ethan at O’Connell’s told me a couple months ago that they were way behind receiving fall/winter products from Europe.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> On the subject of interesting patterns, I saw this coat in a movie, "Cloudburst," playing on TCM the other day. I didn't watch the movie yet (recorded it). The coat is a big, heavy and long overcoat with a flap breast pocket, but these are the only pics of it I could find. Anyone know the name of its pattern?
> View attachment 63779
> 
> View attachment 63780


Wow, what a splendid coat! The sort to actually keep you warm. 👍



FiscalDean said:


> Might be crows foot


I believe you are correct! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

never behind said:


> I got a J Press email today that their fall 2021 collection was out. When I browsed through it, there were no tweed jackets. There are some on the website, but only two or so with much sizing availability. Hopefully this is supply issues and not the start of a end. I know Ethan at O'Connell's told me a couple months ago that they were way behind receiving fall/winter products from Europe.


From what I've heard the pandemic has affected supply chains all around the world causing unusual and unexpected delays and shortages.


----------



## Flanderian

Harris Tweed -


----------



## Oviatt

You are killing me! We are entering the hottest time of the year here and tweed seems a long way off......


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Wow, what a splendid coat! The sort to actually keep you warm. 👍
> 
> I believe you are correct! 👍


Since last year I finally found and purchased the overcoat I've been searching for years for, a grey herringbone raglan sleeved one, and since I have three other overcoats (purchased many years ago) and since (I want this sentence to just run on and on) I have need for one of them at most, I will not buy any more overcoats.

So, if this beautiful crows feet (nice call @FiscalDean) one showed up in my size in a store, I would probably just sit down next to it and cry.


----------



## Flanderian

Oviatt said:


> You are killing me! We are entering the hottest time of the year here and tweed seems a long way off......


Think cool! 

Time for a road trip? 

*Autumn in Norway








*


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I will not buy any more overcoats.


:laughing: :laughing: :laughing:



Fading Fast said:


> So, if this beautiful crows feet (nice call @FiscalDean) one showed up in my size in a store, I would probably just sit down next to it and *BUY*.


----------



## never behind

Flanderian said:


> From what I've heard the pandemic has affected supply chains all around the world causing unusual and unexpected delays and shortages.


I really want to buy an olive HT this fall. I've struck out on eBay for the past 8 months or so. I'm getting worried now none of my preferred places will have one for sale this season.


----------



## Flanderian

never behind said:


> I really want to buy an olive HT this fall. I've struck out on eBay for the past 8 months or so. I'm getting worried now none of my preferred places will have one for sale this season.


What're your preferred places, in addition to E-bay?

I'm not in the market at all, but I've window shopped on-line, and I find most of the traditional makers non-starters due to styling. Specifically, narrow lapels, and/or excessively high button stance and gorge.

I'm not suggesting that if you find this appealing, you shouldn't, but I don't, and for quite awhile I've been hoping that the U.S./Brit nexus would finally have moved on from this by now, as has most of the rest of the world. But they cling to it like a whisker on a biscuit! Even looking at the beautiful HT jackets that O'Connells sells, while the lapels are acceptable, the button stance and gorge height still make them undesirable for me, even if I wished to purchase one.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:
> 
> View attachment 63803


LOL.

Who knows, but I actually believe I would pass as I get depressed now when I look at all the clothes I have that I rarely wear. And it would be really tough to justify to myself a fifth overcoat having just bought one last year.

But if it was there in my size, you never know what would happen. The "good news," which is actually bad news, is there is all but no chance of a beautiful coat just that that "crows feet" one showing up in a store today anyway.


----------



## never behind

Flanderian said:


> What're your preferred places, in addition to E-bay?
> 
> I'm not in the market at all, but I've window shopped on-line, and I find most of the traditional makers non-starters due to styling. Specifically, narrow lapels, and/or excessively high button stance and gorge.
> 
> I'm not suggesting that if you find this appealing, you shouldn't, but I don't, and for quite awhile I've been hoping that the U.S./Brit nexus would finally have moved on from this by now, as has most of the rest of the world. But they cling to it like a whisker on a biscuit! Even looking at the beautiful HT jackets that O'Connells sells, while the lapels are acceptable, the button stance and gorge height still make them undesirable for me, even if I wished to purchase one.


Usually J Press and O'Connell's. I didn't notice the gorge being too high on OC HT when I was there a couple of years ago. Of course those were Southwick and they've had to move on to a new maker. The HT I bought from J Press 2 years ago is fine re: gorge. But I might have a, ahem, higher tolerance that you.

It could be the pictures on OC's website, too. I remember being a little nervous about the gorge height when I bought the tropical wool blazer this summer from them based on the pictures. But it was fine (to me).


----------



## Rosarito

My best fitting jacket is a beautiful Holland & Sherry black/white herringbone tweed. Sadly, here in Southern California, it's almost like costume clothing; like when I want to dress as a professor or something. I wear it a few times a year on colder evenings. I've considered moving just so I can wear my favorite clothes.


----------



## Oldsarge

Rosarito said:


> My best fitting jacket is a beautiful Holland & Sherry black/white herringbone tweed. Sadly, here in Southern California, it's almost like costume clothing; like when I want to dress as a professor or something. I wear it a few times a year on colder evenings. I've considered moving just so I can wear my favorite clothes.


I wear my tweeds regularly in the cooler months here in the Portland, OR area. C'mon up.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Bravura POW tweed ulster very true to the Golden Age original -


----------



## Troones

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 63651


I haven't checked in on this thread in a few days so sorry for skipping back to this. I have to ask, and pardon my ignorance. Is this someone famous? I ask because this looks like me! When I still had hair and went without glasses this is me!


----------



## Oldsarge

Troones said:


> I haven't checked in on this thread in a few days so sorry for skipping back to this. I have to ask, and pardon my ignorance. Is this someone famous? I ask because this looks like me! When I still had hair and went without glasses this is me!


He's probably a distant ancestor. My suspicion is that the picture was taken in the late 'teen's or early '20's. Are you perhaps descended for aristocracy?


----------



## Fading Fast

Troones said:


> I haven't checked in on this thread in a few days so sorry for skipping back to this. I have to ask, and pardon my ignorance. Is this someone famous? I ask because this looks like me! When I still had hair and went without glasses this is me!


Looks like F. Scott Fitzgerald to me - but that's only a guess.


----------



## Fading Fast

I stumbled across this one yesterday, which immediately made me think of our "crows feet" pattern conversation of a page back. That said, the longer I stare at the pattern, the less distinct it becomes to me, but I'm still guessing crows feet - what do others think?


----------



## Troones

Oldsarge said:


> Are you perhaps descended for aristocracy?


That's what I like to tell people. 😂


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I stumbled across this one yesterday, which immediately made me think of our "crows feet" pattern conversation of a page back. That said, the longer I stare at the pattern, the less distinct it becomes to me, but I'm still guessing crows feet - what do others think?
> View attachment 63854


Superb tweed and accessories! :loveyou:


----------



## Flanderian

Window pane tweed -


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ That is a handsome and very-well-made looking jacket.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ That is a handsome and very-well-made looking jacket.
> 
> View attachment 63869


Polo at its best! 👍


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

Since we discussed a "crows feet" pattern a page or so ago, I'm seeing them everywhere. On in the background yesterday was the outstanding 1957 movie "The Sweet Smell of Success" (comments here: #22949) with this awesome raglan-sleeve overcoat worn by actor Martin Milner.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 63952


Splendid tweed, and well put together! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Since we discussed a "crows feet" pattern a page or so ago, I'm seeing them everywhere. On in the background yesterday was the outstanding 1957 movie "The Sweet Smell of Success" (comments here: #22949) with this awesome raglan-sleeve overcoat worn by actor Martin Milner.
> View attachment 63983
> View attachment 63987
> View attachment 63984
> View attachment 63985
> View attachment 63986


Wow, what a wonderful tweed made into a magnificent coat! :icon_cheers:

I don't know of anyone making tweed of the thickness and weight any longer, and as you've noted, proper coats of all types have become uncommon. From a time when men needed to stay warm outdoors for an extended period while being more formally attired.

Great to see Martin Millner again too. As a high school boy I looked forward to he and George Maharis on the TV show _Route 66_ each Friday evening. I mean, who didn't want to travel the U.S. in a Corvette!? 
[HEADING=2][/HEADING]


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Wow, what a wonderful tweed made into a magnificent coat! :icon_cheers:
> 
> I don't know of anyone making tweed of the thickness and weight any longer, and as you've noted, proper coats of all types have become uncommon. From a time when men needed to stay warm outdoors for an extended period while being more formally attired.
> 
> Great to see Martin Millner again too. As a high school boy I looked forward to he and George Maharis on the TV show _Route 66_ each Friday evening. I mean, who didn't want to travel the U.S. in a Corvette!?
> [HEADING=2][/HEADING]


The girls in the show didn't hurt either. 

The coat is so awesome it's crazy. It's so big and heavy, it would take up half the closet in my first apartment.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> The girls in the show didn't hurt either.
> 
> The coat is so awesome it's crazy. It's so big and heavy, it would take up half the closet in my first apartment.


RT 66 - a pretty cool fantasy life for a 17 year-old city kid! And the girls are certainly an essential part of the fantasy! 👍



Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 64001


Exceptional in every way! :icon_cheers: There's absolutely nothing to *grouse* about! 

I even like the elaborate lining, usually a pet hate of mine in bespoke.

The only remaining question: plus two's or plus four's? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 64020


Great collar roll...achieved without even buttoning down the collar points. Sartorial magic, perhaps?


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 64020


Beautiful tweed in that jacket! :loveyou:

And the choice of colors and textures are equally nice.

But as already has been noted, not buttoning the BD collar is unfortunate. It's not about propriety, it just doesn't look good, aside from being an I-gent cliche masquerading as sprezzatura. Guys, if everybody's doing it, it's not spontaneity. it's wannabe imitation. (Rant almost over.) And the shoulder top gorge too. (OK, *finally* over! :fool


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ looks really well made.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ looks really well made.
> 
> View attachment 64031





Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ looks really well made.
> 
> View attachment 64031


*YOWZER!!! :beer:*


----------



## 215339

Flanderian said:


> Wow, what a wonderful tweed made into a magnificent coat! :icon_cheers:
> 
> I don't know of anyone making tweed of the thickness and weight any longer, and as you've noted, proper coats of all types have become uncommon. From a time when men needed to stay warm outdoors for an extended period while being more formally attired.
> 
> Great to see Martin Millner again too. As a high school boy I looked forward to he and George Maharis on the TV show _Route 66_ each Friday evening. I mean, who didn't want to travel the U.S. in a Corvette!?
> [HEADING=2][/HEADING]


Marling & Evans has some nice overcoating cloths available in 720gsm weight.

I'm optimistic on coats now. I think overcoats may be sticking around for a different reason. They work as a form of tailoring in many different aesthetics.

This ad from ALD, a streetwear brand, shouldn't work on paper, but it looks great visually to me.


----------



## Flanderian

delicious_scent said:


> Marling & Evans has some nice overcoating cloths available in 720gsm weight.
> 
> I'm optimistic on coats now. I think overcoats may be sticking around for a different reason. They work as a form of tailoring in many different aesthetics.
> 
> This ad from ALD, a streetwear brand, shouldn't work on paper, but it looks great visually to me.


Don't know who that looks more like, my grandma, or me with a wig! 😢


----------



## 215339

Flanderian said:


> Don't know who that looks more like, my grandma, or me with a wig! 😢


I hope to look that cool at that age.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Don't know who that looks more like, my grandma, or me with a wig! 😢


Regardless of who the model might look like, allow me to compliment the sartorial symmetry of pairing those lovely sneakers with sweatpants, for the purpose of jogging to and from the market for that photogenically colorful bag.....of groceries! LOL.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

eagle2250 said:


> Regardless of who the model might look like, allow me to compliment the sartorial symmetry of pairing those lovely sneakers with sweatpants, for the purpose of jogging to and from the market for that photogenically colorful bag.....of groceries! LOL.


And kudos for the string bag. They are the best.


----------



## 215339

Glad people enjoyed that ad. Here is the accompanying grandpa.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 64042


Exceptional in every way! :happy:

I want it! (And the 20-something physique to go with it. 😢)


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Exceptional in every way! :happy:
> 
> I want it! (And the 20-something physique to go with it. 😢)


It's one I want to, even better if it was in a black and light cream as shown in my avatar.


----------



## Flanderian

delicious_scent said:


> Glad people enjoyed that ad. Here is the accompanying grandpa.


Uncle Charlie!?
Now we're talkin'! irate:

I want the coat!

But even more so the loaf of decent bread he's got stickin' out of that bag. Amazing that in the space of one generation, most Americans have lost any access to, or even knowledge of, what truly good bread is. Perhaps in some urban areas, but the suburbs?

*FAWGEDABOUTIT! *


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> It's one I want to, even better if it was in a black and light cream as shown in my avatar.


Well, since we're wishin'. let's do one of each! :icon_saint7kg:


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Well, since we're wishin'. let's do one of each! :icon_saint7kg:


Agreed - two heavy Tweed herringbone three-piece suits that could truly be worn as separates. I'm in.


----------



## Flanderian

Not for the faint of heart -


----------



## 215339

Flanderian said:


> Not for the faint of heart -
> 
> View attachment 64058


Something about tweeds in a traditional pattern, scaled up, really satisfies a certain itch for me.

For me it feels like a good mix of traditional and contemporary.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Flanderian said:


> Uncle Charlie!?
> Now we're talkin'! irate:
> 
> I want the coat!
> 
> But even more so the loaf of decent bread he's got stickin' out of that bag. Amazing that in the space of one generation, most Americans have lost any access to, or even knowledge of, what truly good bread is. Perhaps in some urban areas, but the suburbs?
> 
> *FAWGEDABOUTIT! *


True about the bread. The one bakery, family run for over 50 years decided to pull up stakes and move to the Carolinas. They ran a small storefront bakery where on weekends the lines spilled into the street. Bread as I remember from my youth. This sudden departure occured in the last couple of months much to the dismay of the locals.


----------



## Flanderian

EclecticSr. said:


> True about the bread. The one bakery, family run for over 50 years decided to pull up stakes and move to the Carolinas. They ran a small storefront bakery where on weekends the lines spilled into the street. Bread as I remember from my youth. This sudden departure occured in the last couple of months much to the dismay of the locals.


Americans have been taught to eat inferior bread, and no doubt, many would now prefer it if they were ever to taste *really* *good* bread. Supermarket convenience has been driving quality neighborhood bakeries out of business, one by one. Being a traditional baker is hard work and long hours, and you don't usually get rich.

My candidate for best bread, now gone around 25 or 30 years -



















Who else thought so?

The Chairman of the Board -


----------



## eagle2250

EclecticSr. said:


> True about the bread. The one bakery, family run for over 50 years decided to pull up stakes and move to the Carolinas. They ran a small storefront bakery where on weekends the lines spilled into the street. Bread as I remember from my youth. This sudden departure occured in the last couple of months much to the dismay of the locals.


Locally, the Publix Supermarket offers some pretty decent loaves of baked on the premises home style breads. I know it's not the same, but alas, we do what we gotta do! LOL.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Flanderian said:


> Americans have been taught to eat inferior bread, and no doubt, many would now prefer it if they were ever to taste *really* *good* bread. Supermarket convenience has been driving quality neighborhood bakeries out of business, one by one. Being a traditional baker is hard work and long hours, and you don't usually get rich.
> 
> My candidate for best bread, now gone around 25 or 30 years -
> 
> View attachment 64060
> 
> 
> View attachment 64061
> 
> 
> Who else thought so?
> 
> The Chairman of the Board -
> 
> View attachment 64062


Americans have been taught to eat inferior bread, and no doubt, many would now prefer it if they were ever to taste *really* *good* bread. Supermarket convenience has been driving quality neighborhood bakeries out of business, one by one. Being a traditional baker is hard work and long hours, and you don't usually get rich.

I couldn't agree more, for those of us who have enjoyed the real stuff who now have to settle for somewhat inferior product is a big letdown. A basic staple, but one that makes other plates so much more enjoyable with a good piece of bread.


----------



## ran23

Flanderian said:


> Not for the faint of heart -
> 
> View attachment 64058


----------



## ran23

I saw something like this in a consignment store. 48 or 50 size. I knew that Lady was going to flip it.


----------



## Fading Fast

Might not be Tweed.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 64072
> 
> Might not be Tweed.


Tweed or not, it is indeed quite handsome.


----------



## never behind

Flanderian said:


> Uncle Charlie!?
> Now we're talkin'! irate:
> 
> I want the coat!
> 
> But even more so the loaf of decent bread he's got stickin' out of that bag. Amazing that in the space of one generation, most Americans have lost any access to, or even knowledge of, what truly good bread is. Perhaps in some urban areas, but the suburbs?
> 
> *FAWGEDABOUTIT! *


Best thing that happened to me is my wife buying a bread machine. So good.

Not necessarily good for the waistline though. Especially combined with my affinity for butter.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Baking good bread is not very difficult or time consuming. I bake a couple of loaves probably once every 5 to 7 days. The active work is probably less than fifteen minutes.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 64072
> 
> Might not be Tweed.


I think definitely tweed.

Very colorful, and very nice! 👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## EclecticSr.

never behind said:


> Best thing that happened to me is my wife buying a bread machine. So good.
> 
> Not necessarily good for the waistline though. Especially combined with my affinity for butter.


Threw 2 machines in the garbage shortly after purchase. Both failed.
Luckily we have a bakery that does excelent sourdough bread a ten minute drive away.

A good loaf of crusty Italian bread baked in a brick oven by a master is another story, sadly the one remaining family that produced them have packed up and gone as I indicated.

I can find similar but, I'm not about to drive 120 miles round trip weekly to get it.
I do so when visiting family every 4-6 weeks and on holidays. A treat if you will. As a family we enjoyed fresh baked bread of our youth produced by a local baker a stones throw from our home.
Baked during the night and delivered to local grocers before daylight. We could beat it before they got to the grocers. How about $ 0.25 a loaf or...... 2 proofed balls of dough for $0.50 
that grandma would turn into pizza when she was in the mood, real pizza.


----------



## Flanderian

EclecticSr. said:


> Threw 2 machines in the garbage shortly after purchase. Both failed.
> Luckily we have a bakery that does excelent sourdough bread a ten minute drive away.
> 
> A good loaf of crusty Italian bread baked in a brick oven by a master is another story, sadly the one remaining family that produced them have packed up and gone as I indicated.
> 
> I can find similar but, I'm not about to drive 120 miles round trip weekly to get it.
> I do so when visiting family every 4-6 weeks and on holidays. A treat if you will. As a family we enjoyed fresh baked bread of our youth produced by a local baker a stones throw from our home.
> Baked during the night and delivered to local grocers before daylight. We could beat it before they got to the grocers. How about $ 0.25 a loaf or...... 2 proofed balls of dough for $0.50
> that grandma would turn into pizza when she was in the mood, real pizza.


Boy, you're making me hungry! 🤪

What you're describing is very similar to what Giordano's offered. And it wasn't just a single version of Italian bread, though that was wonderful enough, but a profusion of different varieties of loaves, and of course taralli, those scrumptious little rock circles full of black pepper, fennel seed, and flavor. All baked in an 80 year-old, coal fired, brick oven by a master bread maker who started in the early morning hours and finished preparing the batter for the next morning late in the day.

For me their most memorable loaf was meat bread. If it had a more formal name, I didn't know it, or ever hear anyone refer to it as anything else. It felt as if a loaf, which was modestly sized, weighed between 5 and 10 lbs.

I believe lard was included among the ingredients, but its name came from it being full of chunks of many types of dry Italian sausage, all of the finest quality. Forget about finding such bread,, I doubt even similar sausage could easily be located. The result was an incredibly dense, moist bread with a crispy crust, bursting with the flavors of the different types of sausage. A couple hunks of this, a slab of real imported provolone, a green salad and glass of decent red wine provided as fine a meal as any man could hope to enjoy.


----------



## EclecticSr.

Flanderian said:


> Boy, you're making me hungry! 🤪
> 
> What you're describing is very similar to what Giordano's offered. And it wasn't just a single version of Italian bread, though that was wonderful enough, but a profusion of different varieties of loaves, and of course taralli, those scrumptious little rock circles full of black pepper, fennel seed, and flavor. All baked in an 80 year-old, coal fired, brick oven by a master bread maker who started in the early morning hours and finished preparing the batter for the next morning late in the day.
> 
> For me their most memorable loaf was meat bread. If it had a more formal name, I didn't know it, or ever hear anyone refer to it as anything else. It felt as if a loaf, which was modestly sized, weighed between 5 and 10 lbs.
> 
> I believe lard was included among the ingredients, but it's name came from it being full of chunks of many types of dry Italian sausage, all of the finest quality. Forget about finding such bread,, I doubt even similar sausage could easily be located. The result was an incredibly dense, moist bread with a crispy crust, bursting with the flavors of the different types of sausage. A couple hunks of this, a slab of real imported provolone, a green salad and glass of decent red wine provided as fine a meal as any man could hope to enjoy.


We have a smaall chain of stores that offer mostly ethnic italian food products. The closest I can come to what you describe is offered by them called prociutto bread, loaded with sausage and prociutto, suupressado made with lard. Takes me back to when my Grandmother and Mother would slave over hot stove to produce same. They made everything from scratch. I certainly know of tralli and a very hard biscuit that included black pepper, I'm sorry the name eludes me but resembles biscotti in shape.

Ravioli, maniccotti, home made pastas etc. . My wife still respects many of the dishes she learned observing them.

It is because of them that I gravitated to cooking. I'm noticing my son is now into cooking, he leans BBQ. I've been branching out into French and Asian and of course many American dishes, but the mainstay is Italian.

The market also offer many rustic loaves delivered to them daily from a bakery in Brooklyn N.Y. , good but just close to what you and I may be used to.

They make their own sausage and offer many dishes ready made. Imported prociutto San Daniele and de Parma. All imported cheeses, in fact an entire cheese area devoted to cheeses from around thr world, with emphasis on Itlian. Ready made or made to order antipasto, hot or cold or both for the lazy and much much more.

A meat/ butcher section and a fish section. Bakery section, mostly Italian offerings in pastries.

I should stop here or I would demand advertising fees.

Perhaps we could start a culinary section! That wouldn't be fair would it?

Of course we have digressed but who cares, nice clothes, good food and a glass of good wine. A good women and a great dog who said they don't go together, I just miss enjoying a good smoke, but. Reminiscing.


----------



## Oldsarge

When my daughter was stationed in Naples, we went to visit and one day she took us to an Italian version of a farmers' market. The baker rolled up in a van with a wood-fired oven and baked hot Italian breads right there! And people ask me if I'm thinking of moving to Italy . . .


----------



## vonSuess

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 64072
> 
> Might not be Tweed.


Is that a dress shirt under a polo shirt, or what else is that under the coat?


----------



## Flanderian

EclecticSr. said:


> We have a smaall chain of stores that offer mostly ethnic italian food products. The closest I can come to what you describe is offered by them called prociutto bread, loaded with sausage and prociutto, suupressado made with lard. Takes me back to when my Grandmother and Mother would slave over hot stove to produce same. They made everything from scratch. I certainly know of tralli and a very hard biscuit that included black pepper, I'm sorry the name eludes me but resembles biscotti in shape.
> 
> Ravioli, maniccotti, home made pastas etc. . My wife still respects many of the dishes she learned observing them.
> 
> It is because of them that I gravitated to cooking. I'm noticing my son is now into cooking, he leans BBQ. I've been branching out into French and Asian and of course many American dishes, but the mainstay is Italian.
> 
> The market also offer many rustic loaves delivered to them daily from a bakery in Brooklyn N.Y. , good but just close to what you and I may be used to.
> 
> They make their own sausage and offer many dishes ready made. Imported prociutto San Daniele and de Parma. All imported cheeses, in fact an entire cheese area devoted to cheeses from around thr world, with emphasis on Itlian. Ready made or made to order antipasto, hot or cold or both for the lazy and much much more.
> 
> A meat/ butcher section and a fish section. Bakery section, mostly Italian offerings in pastries.
> 
> I should stop here or I would demand advertising fees.
> 
> Perhaps we could start a culinary section! That wouldn't be fair would it?
> 
> Of course we have digressed but who cares, nice clothes, good food and a glass of good wine. A good women and a great dog who said they don't go together, I just miss enjoying a good smoke, but. Reminiscing.


👍 👍 👍


----------



## Flanderian

vonSuess said:


> Is that a dress shirt under a polo shirt, or what else is that under the coat?


Perhaps FF knows better, but to me it looks like a dress shirt under a cashmere or merino polo sweater. I've enjoyed wearing something similar when I want something particularly warm and different, though I'll typically select a more casual shirt and tie.


----------



## Fading Fast

vonSuess said:


> Is that a dress shirt under a polo shirt, or what else is that under the coat?


Looks like a dress shirt to me.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 64121


Pairing that Handsome coat with those blaze orange trousers must be an abomination of some sort. It should never happen!


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Perhaps we could start a culinary section! That wouldn't be fair would it? ...

I think that a Culinary thread is a superb idea. We already have red meat, tacos, pizza, salads, and libations threads, but they are mainly photography to taunt Eagle. I think a thread where people share recipes they have especially enjoyed, kitchen hacks they have found useful, and equipment acquisitions (or dispositions) that were useful or instructive would be fun. Other forums have similar boards, but frankly I would vastly prefer the input of Ask Andy members! I recently dumped the Cookware board on another forum after many years because the posts had become either pointless or vitriolic.

BTW, I like the orange pants in the post above!


----------



## David J. Cooper

Go ahead and start it. I will happily contribute.


----------



## EclecticSr.

It would be a nice. I just threw it out there never thinking it would be taken seriously.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> For me their most memorable loaf was meat bread.


So the Italians put sausages in their bread, while the English put bread in their sausages.


----------



## Fading Fast

Not subtle.


----------



## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 64144
> 
> Not subtle.


These bold tweeds are going after my heart. Chocolate chip brown houndstooth is even getting me hungry!

Here's another one


----------



## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> These bold tweeds are going after my heart. Chocolate chip brown houndstooth is even getting me hungry!
> 
> Here's another one


Movies from the '30s to the '50s/early '60s are chockablock with bold Tweed overcoats. It's a shame that period ended. The one you show is beautiful.


----------



## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> Movies from the '30s to the '50s/early '60s are chockablock with bold Tweed overcoats. It's a shame that period ended. The one you show is beautiful.


Fox cloth apparently, and dearly expensive, but it is great.

I find it interesting that bold tweed somehow looks more modern to me than most other variations, but is probably the most rooted in that classic Golden Age aesthetic that was common in those movies and illustrations.

My view of 'modern' on these coats is because I tend to see these kinds of patterns a lot more on women's coats than men's. Seems like the women's coats took inspiration from those old movies.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 64144
> 
> Not subtle.


Godzilla tweed! 👍

irate:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 64150


The only thing to dislike about this is that he has more hair than I do.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


>


Nice combo.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 64178
> 
> 
> View attachment 64179
> 
> View attachment 64181


The two at top are very nice! 👍


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 64269


Blue challis neckties, OCBDs with perfect collar rolls, jackets saturated with warm autumnal colors...these are a few of my favorite things.


----------



## Fading Fast

Vecchio Vespa said:


> Blue challis neckties, OCBDs with perfect collar rolls, jackets saturated with warm autumnal colors...these are a few of my favorite things.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 64269


Beautiful! 👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## ran23

This morning dropped to 44, wish I was walking then in style.


----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 64178
> 
> 
> View attachment 64179
> 
> View attachment 64181


I love the bi-swing shoulders and the dual vents on the jacket in the first photo.


----------



## 127.72 MHz

Old School heavy tweed:


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## drpeter

127.72 MHz said:


> Old School heavy tweed:
> View attachment 64297


Nice jacket, with an interesting detail: The prince is sporting turned back cuffs, not very commonly found in jackets these days


----------



## eagle2250

127.72 MHz said:


> Old School heavy tweed:
> View attachment 64297


As I see more shots of those turned back cuffs, I seem to be acquiring an increasing attraction to them. Might have to go shopping in the not too distant future.


----------



## 127.72 MHz

^^ It seems like it works with tweed or heavy woolens in sporting jackets but I'm not sure about how I would feel about it otherwise.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 64328


Bold, but very nice tweed! 👍

Of course, a few other choices bug me. :crazy:


----------



## Flanderian

Why not . . . .

*TWEED TROUSERS -*










For days when the ground is crunchy under foot. :cold:


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Why not . . . .
> 
> *TWEED TROUSERS -*
> 
> View attachment 64339
> 
> 
> For days when the ground is crunchy under foot. :cold:


Other than the houndstooth one, I've owned every single one of those at some point, and most several times. Light/dove grey is one of my favorite flannel-pants colors.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Other than the houndstooth one, I've owned every single one of those at some point, and most several times. Light/dove grey is one of my favorite flannel-pants colors.


You are, indeed, a fortunate man! 👍

Top 3 and bottom are apparently tweed, but the middle three luscious flannel.


----------



## ran23

Can't wait till Winter, my Chocolate Herringbone with brace buttons are my favorite. Red Label Banks.


----------



## 127.72 MHz

Flanderian said:


> Why not . . . .
> 
> *TWEED TROUSERS -*
> 
> View attachment 64339
> 
> 
> For days when the ground is crunchy under foot. :cold:


One of each please.


----------



## Oldsarge

drpeter said:


> Nice jacket, with an interesting detail: The prince is sporting turned back cuffs, not very commonly found in jackets these days


He seems to favor them. I've seen several versions that he's worn. If the world ever turns so that I can go somewhere, I'd like to have one or two jackets like that.


----------



## drpeter

Oldsarge said:


> He seems to favor them. I've seen several versions that he's worn. If the world ever turns so that I can go somewhere, I'd like to have one or two jackets like that.


I doubt if you could pick one up at a retail shop, or even in a vintage or thrift shop. You'd have to get some nice tweed cloth and have a good tailor make one up for you.


----------



## drpeter

Flanderian said:


> Why not . . . .
> 
> *TWEED TROUSERS -*
> 
> View attachment 64339
> 
> 
> For days when the ground is crunchy under foot. :cold:


I have several, many in grey and brown, and in houndstooth, checks, and herringbone. They will be worn soon as the weather gets cooler -- I don't have to wait until the white stuff starts flying!


----------



## Oldsarge

drpeter said:


> I doubt if you could pick one up at a retail shop, or even in a vintage or thrift shop. You'd have to get some nice tweed cloth and have a good tailor make one up for you.


Oh, that would be no problem. Hemrajani has made most of my clothing and he visits Portland annually--or did before the pandemic!


----------



## 127.72 MHz

Oldsarge said:


> Oh, that would be no problem. Hemrajani has made most of my clothing and he visits Portland annually--or did before the pandemic!


I have a dozen jackets and five suits from Hemrajani.

It seems like a month or two past I received a email Divij might be coming to Portland. It might have been just an ad though.

Looks as though Divij Hemrajani is kind of out on his own? Perhaps the firm's name has changed?

https://www.divij.com/
I did a quick search for mytailor.com and it didn't work.

If you know the scoop please pass it along to me Sarge.


----------



## Flanderian

drpeter said:


> Nice jacket, with an interesting detail: The prince is sporting turned back cuffs, not very commonly found in jackets these days


The term I've learned for them is gauntlet cuffs. :icon_saint7kg:


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## drpeter

Flanderian said:


> The term I've learned for them is gauntlet cuffs. :icon_saint7kg:


Gauntlet, turned-back, turnback, even turned-up -- take your pick.

Ian Fleming apparently liked them and he mentions several characters in the Bond books, including Bond himself wearing them. I also think there was at least one shirt with sleeves designed for Bond in the films with such cuffs, and I think Sean Connery wears one in _Dr No._

For trousers, what we call cuffs in the US used to be referred to as turn-ups in the UK and some of the other Commonwealth countries.


----------



## EclecticSr.

drpeter said:


> Gauntlet, turned-back, turnback, even turned-up -- take your pick.
> 
> Ian Fleming apparently liked them and he mentions several characters in the Bond books, including Bond himself wearing them. I also think there was at least one shirt with sleeves designed for Bond in the films with such cuffs, and I think Sean Connery wears one in _Dr No._
> 
> For trousers, what we call cuffs in the US used to be referred to as turn-ups in the UK and some of the other Commonwealth countries.


The shirts you refer to have what are called cocktail cuffs. I have a couple, I think also refered to as Bond cuffs. 
There was a firm in the U.K. that offered them, I believe a bespoke tailoring shop that offered them ready made. I can't recall the the chaps name.


----------



## drpeter

Yes, I have heard those shirt cuffs called by that name as well. According to Peter Brooker and Matt Spaiser's new book _From Tailors With Love_, the cuff was designed (at the behest of Terence Young for Connery) by Turnbull and Asser, shirtmakers in London. They said they copied a similar cuff worn by David Niven. Matt is an AAAC member so perhaps he can shed further light on the provenance of this cocktail cuff.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 64393


Exceptional! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Flanderian

drpeter said:


> Gauntlet, turned-back, turnback, even turned-up -- take your pick.
> 
> Ian Fleming apparently liked them and he mentions several characters in the Bond books, including Bond himself wearing them. I also think there was at least one shirt with sleeves designed for Bond in the films with such cuffs, and I think Sean Connery wears one in _Dr No._
> 
> For trousers, what we call cuffs in the US used to be referred to as turn-ups in the UK and some of the other Commonwealth countries.


Now that you mention it, I do recall gauntlet cuffs being worn on screen in a very discreet manner during minimalist '60's clothing. And I think Bond might have been among them.

Need to ask Matt S! :teacha:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## drpeter

Flanderian said:


> Now that you mention it, I do recall gauntlet cuffs being worn on screen in a very discreet manner during minimalist '60's clothing. And I think Bond might have been among them.
> 
> Need to ask Matt S! :teacha:


I do mention Matt S's book above.


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 64408


Tweed coat and corduroy trousers. Doesn't get any better.


----------



## ran23

My first Brown Tweed was Men's whse and I tried it with dark brown cords, and loved that look.


----------



## 215339

Flanderian said:


> Now that you mention it, I do recall gauntlet cuffs being worn on screen in a very discreet manner during minimalist '60's clothing. And I think Bond might have been among them.
> 
> Need to ask Matt S! :teacha:


I ended up getting a gauntlet/cocktail cuff on a MTM shirt, but I found it to be a nuisance when washing and drying the shirt. It definitely got in the way and ended up being more of a novelty/gimmick IMO.

I'd like the detail more on jackets.


----------



## Flanderian

delicious_scent said:


> I ended up getting a gauntlet/cocktail cuff on a MTM shirt, but I found it to be a nuisance when washing and drying the shirt. It definitely got in the way and ended up being more of a novelty/gimmick IMO.
> 
> I'd like the detail more on jackets.


What do you require?

Beloved by sharp operators -




























Suitable for suits -










And for evening wear -










May be larger -










Or smaller -


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ (top pic) "Boardwalk Empire" was a sartorial feast.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

There have been several of late that illustrate a universal truth: A classic tweed jacket, a blue shirt that is actually blue as opposed to a bluish grey, and a tie with rich tones are going to look incredibly good.


----------



## 215339

Flanderian said:


> What do you require?
> 
> Beloved by sharp operators -
> 
> View attachment 64443
> 
> 
> View attachment 64441
> 
> 
> View attachment 64440
> 
> 
> Suitable for suits -
> 
> View attachment 64445
> 
> 
> And for evening wear -
> 
> View attachment 64442
> 
> 
> May be larger -
> 
> View attachment 64447
> 
> 
> Or smaller -
> 
> View attachment 64446


The effect is especially striking on evening wear and suits. Definitely noting this for the future!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ (top pic) "Boardwalk Empire" was a sartorial feast.
> 
> View attachment 64449


Exceptional! :loveyou:



delicious_scent said:


> The effect is especially striking on evening wear and suits. Definitely noting this for the future!


In finding examples, there are many I didn't include. To my eye, some look better than others, and this may be partially cloth dependent, but it seems to lie more with subtlety of its cut. And I find the one you named likely the most appealing.

The bold blue tweed with the larger cuff is among the largest, and while I didn't care as well for this effect on plainer cloth, here it seems to work well.


----------



## Flanderian

Often, I find tweed on tweed disharmonious. This is a handsome exception of 3.


----------



## 127.72 MHz

^^ Everything works well together but the real star in my eyes are the trousers.

I wonder about the wristwatch over the cuff,....


----------



## 127.72 MHz

Some regular fellows wearing wool as it was intended.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 64463


I should simply say I really like that bow tie and leave it at that. However, my lack of appreciation is well known and it this case it goes far beyond that. Today's pocket square goes way beyond my casual distaste for the accessory, as it appears the wearer has simply taken a heavily used hanky and stuffed the thing in his coats breast pocket. Just saying....Ewww! LOL.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> I should simply say I really like that bow tie and leave it at that. However, my lack of appreciation is well known and it this case it goes far beyond that. Today's pocket square goes way beyond my casual distaste for the accessory, as it appears the wearer has simply taken a heavily used hanky and stuffed the thing in his coats breast pocket. Just saying....Ewww! LOL.


The Tweed itself, for me, is probably too much even though I appreciate it. Maybe as a sport coat I could get on board. You and I feel pretty similar about pocket squares. Also, I feel like you, by itself, the bowtie is fine, but I don't see it working with that Tweed in anyway.


----------



## David J. Cooper

https://www.golfchannel.com/video/s...-us-pairings-not-matchups-ryder-cup-day-1?amp
Is Stricker wearing a tweed jacket? Too bad he buttoned the top button but what a great look compared to the usual team wear.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Super nice.









Love all three, but one too-many patterns. A solid shirt is called for. Not sure the tie works with the jacket either.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Super nice.
> 
> View attachment 64508
> 
> Love all three, but one too-many patterns. A solid shirt is called for. Not sure the tie works with the jacket either.


Agreed! Three fantastic tweeds! 👍

Make it a solid shirt, and I'd be delighted!


----------



## Flanderian

Fox Bros. tweed -


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Now, that's how you do three patterns together.


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> Fox Bros. tweed -
> 
> View attachment 64514


Splendid! But could do with a discreet PS.


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Splendid! But could do with a discreet PS.


👍 👍 👍

Call out the discreet white linen PS 3 points up! Wanna get fancy? Do the one with navy edging!

:happy:


----------



## Fading Fast

His and her Tweed (Robert Montgomery and Myrna Loy) from the 1936 movie "Petticoat Fever" (comments on the movie here:  #792 ):















Is his sport coat Barleycorn?


----------



## never behind

I got my J Press brochure yesterday. The page of tweeds made me check out the website. Some nice options this year. I've been looking for an olive jacket - four options this year. Four! The past several years has been only one.

This is a barleybone


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

never behind said:


> I got my J Press brochure yesterday. The page of tweeds made me check out the website. Some nice options this year. I've been looking for an olive jacket - four options this year. Four! The past several years has been only one.
> 
> This is a barleybone
> View attachment 64570
> 
> 
> View attachment 64575
> View attachment 64576
> 
> View attachment 64577


I have also heard the top pattern referred to as broken bone.


----------



## Flanderian

never behind said:


> I got my J Press brochure yesterday. The page of tweeds made me check out the website. Some nice options this year. I've been looking for an olive jacket - four options this year. Four! The past several years has been only one.
> 
> This is a barleybone
> View attachment 64570
> 
> 
> View attachment 64575
> View attachment 64576
> 
> View attachment 64577


Some great new time tweeds! But wish those jackets were longer! 👍


Fading Fast said:


> His and her Tweed (Robert Montgomery and Myrna Loy) from the 1936 movie "Petticoat Fever" (comments on the movie here:  #792 ):
> View attachment 64566
> View attachment 64567
> 
> Is his sport coat Barleycorn?


Can't tell pattern of the tweeds, but it's magnificent cloth!

Here's Fabulous Freddy in a tweed that looks over 20oz!


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ So nice.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ So nice.
> 
> View attachment 64583


I like everything but the tie in the shot above...and I'm not sure why. I think it's the dark stripe that just doesn't play as nicely with the colors in the jacket? :icon_scratch:


----------



## EclecticSr.

Flanderian said:


> Some great new time tweeds! But wish those jackets were longer! 👍
> 
> Can't tell pattern of the tweeds, but it's magnificent cloth!
> 
> Here's Fabulous Freddy in a tweed that looks over 20oz!
> 
> View attachment 64579


Can anyone see anything wrong with this shot of Fred, no........Thta's because there isn't.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ So nice.
> 
> View attachment 64583


Great tweed and jacket! :icon_cheers: (I won't even complain about the shoulder top gorge.) Might like a bit more formal trousers, but not bad as is. 👍


----------



## Flanderian

The Coat - you* know* you want it!


----------



## EclecticSr.

Flanderian said:


> The Coat - you* know* you want it!
> 
> View attachment 64594


The coat I know I have.


----------



## Flanderian

EclecticSr. said:


> The coat I know I have.


Fortunate gent! 👍


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> The Coat - you* know* you want it!
> 
> View attachment 64594


Ooh!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Ooh!


Exactly!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 64677


You're feeding my check obsession!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ I like this as the denim shirt and knit tie give it a more modern feel despite the sport coat having a very '50s vibe. On my best days, I like to think I blend older and newer elements together well like this. 

My memory is that it was in the '90s when denim shirts sort of went "mainstream" as that was when you started to see them with sport coats and ties - anyone remember it as being earlier?


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ I like this as the denim shirt and knit tie give it a more modern feel despite the sport coat having a very '50s vibe. On my best days, I like to think I blend older and newer elements together well like this.
> 
> My memory is that it was in the '90s when denim shirts sort of went "mainstream" as that was when you started to see them with sport coats and ties - anyone remember it as being earlier?


Mainstream is a flexible term. I seem to recall seeing it commonly by the mid to later '80's, and smatterings for decades before. (Polo, the original Lands End, the original J. Peterman, etc.)


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Mainstream is a flexible term. I seem to recall seeing it commonly by the mid to later '80's, and smatterings for decades before. (Polo, the original Lands End, the original J. Peterman, etc.)


I'm not surprised as stuff is alway earlier than we tend to think. I've seen chinos and desert boots being worn together in the '30s in movies and other such surprisingly early things. What I remember is a big moment of vogue for denim shirts in the mid '90s where you'd see men wearing them with ties and sport coats in nice restaurants and such.


----------



## David J. Cooper

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ I like this as the denim shirt and knit tie give it a more modern feel despite the sport coat having a very '50s vibe. On my best days, I like to think I blend older and newer elements together well like this.
> 
> My memory is that it was in the '90s when denim shirts sort of went "mainstream" as that was when you started to see them with sport coats and ties - anyone remember it as being earlier?


Yes. I remember they were a thing in the very late 80s especially with a band collar.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## drpeter

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ So nice.
> 
> View attachment 64583


The other day, I wore a three-button herringbone tweed jacket to a lunch with friends -- it was in a brown colour very similar to this jacket and I had on a medium blue polo shirt and grey cotton slacks. With jackets of this kind, I think solid colours would be simpler to have close to it. Having many other patterned items next to it would make the overall effect more noisy than optimal.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 64705


The 3R2 Tweed and that Fair Isle vest work perfectly together. Given the wrinkling, I'm assuming those trousers are cotton moleskin's or khaki hued chinos? Nice rig!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 64705


Exceptional! I love it all. :loveyou:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 64724
> 
> 
> View attachment 64725


Both beautiful tweeds. But I don't like the gorge height on either, bottom jacket is too short.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 64765


Gorge height notwithstanding, you're making me lust in my heart with all these beautiful checks! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Harris Tweed -


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 64788


Tweed on tweed can be problematic, but I like this very well! Beautiful tweeds and colors! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ I agree with @Flanderian, that is a Tweed on Tweed that works very well as does the entire outfit.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ I agree with @Flanderian, that is a Tweed on Tweed that works very well as does the entire outfit.
> 
> View attachment 64859


Outstanding in total! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Flanderian

Another coat -


----------



## 215339

__
http://instagr.am/p/CTfWuvHsOtD/


__
http://instagr.am/p/CTevGuSM-bq/

I've seen it mentioned that single breasted coats look better worn open, but this would be hilariously useless in my climate.

I think if wearing any single breasted coat closed, a full belt helps to break up the visual expanse of fabric in the front.


----------



## Oldsarge

". . . hilariously useless . . ." Now there's a phrase just begging to be swiped and reused!


----------



## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> __
> http://instagr.am/p/CTfWuvHsOtD/
> 
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/CTevGuSM-bq/
> 
> I've seen it mentioned that single breasted coats look better worn open, but this would be hilariously useless in my climate.
> 
> I think if wearing any single breasted coat closed, a full belt helps to break up the visual expanse of fabric in the front.


These are insanely nice looking coats.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 64874


That is a very nice jacket design, but with a fabric of that obvious weight, I would opt for a shade or two darker with the earth tones. Personal preference, I guess!


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> That is a very nice jacket design, but with a fabric of that obvious weight, I would opt for a shade or two darker with the earth tones. Personal preference, I guess!


I agree as it looks almost summery. That said, as one's third of fourth winter-weight sport coat, it wouldn't be bad as it could pair nicely with some lighter-colored grays (sweaters, flannels) for some different but attractive winter combos.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 64874





eagle2250 said:


> That is a very nice jacket design, but with a fabric of that obvious weight, I would opt for a shade or two darker with the earth tones. Personal preference, I guess!





Fading Fast said:


> I agree as it looks almost summery. That said, as one's third of fourth winter-weight sport coat, it wouldn't be bad as it could pair nicely with some lighter-colored grays (sweaters, flannels) for some different but attractive winter combos.


Well, *I* love the tweed, and would consider myself fortunate to have one of exactly this shade.

I also think the cut both masterful and somewhat unusual. Unusual in that the styling appears a Neapolitan variant, and heavier tweeds seem less often so rendered. Looks like a spalla camicia shoulder, and patch breast pocket is also typical. The lapels are narrower than I've commonly seen on this mode, but work perfectly with this jacket.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Well, *I* love the tweed, and would consider myself fortunate to have one of exactly this shade.
> 
> I also think the cut both masterful and somewhat unusual. Unusual in that the styling appears a Neapolitan variant, and heavier tweeds seem less often so rendered. Looks like a spalla camicia shoulder, and patch breast pocket is also typical. The lapels are narrower than I've commonly seen on this mode, but work perfectly with this jacket.


Google, what is a "spalla camicia" shoulder? Oh, got it, makes sense.

Yes, I agree with all you said @Flanderian.

As noted, I'd love to play with that sport coat and some dove and medium grey wool sweaters and trousers I have.

My first thought would be a white OCBD, dove-grey V-neck sweater and medium-grey heavy flannel trousers. Another iteration would be to drop the OCBD and go with a dove-grey turtleneck,.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Google, what is a "spalla camicia" shoulder? Oh, got it, makes sense.
> 
> Yes, I agree with all you said @Flanderian.
> 
> As noted, I'd love to play with that sport coat and some dove and medium grey wool sweaters and trousers I have.
> 
> My first thought would be a white OCBD, dove-grey V-neck sweater and medium-grey heavy flannel trousers. Another iteration would be to drop the OCBD and go with a dove-grey turtleneck,.


Think your proposed combos would look great! This shade is actually very versatile and will love just about any color flannel trouser you pair with it, from dove grey to charcoal, chocolate brown, and I've got a pair of black olive covert twill that would make it sing.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## 215339

Fading Fast said:


> These are insanely nice looking coats.


Amen! I dig their straighter silhouette.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 64885


Handsome! Well done in toto. 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Great coat! Sorry about the way it's being displayed. And with jeans! 🤢


----------



## Oldsarge

I'd swear it's a lady's ensemble.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Flanderian said:


> Great coat! Sorry about the way it's being displayed. And with jeans! 🤢
> 
> View attachment 64914


OK, make one in my size and we'll change that! :icon_saint7kg:

Harvested from a men's blog as I recall, but I can't swear you're mistaken.


----------



## drpeter

Oldsarge said:


> I'd swear it's a lady's ensemble.


Do you think the coat is for a woman, Sarge? I looked at the left front panel and see more than one button hole, so the coat must button the way men's coats, jackets etc., all button -- with the left panel buttoning on to the right panel where the buttons are stitched. Does this logic make sense, or am I mistaken somehow?

Of course, clothes designed for men are worn extensively by women, so this is probably a moot point! And that turtle neck under the coat looks more feminine than masculine, so you may be right about the overall ensemble.


----------



## Oldsarge

drpeter said:


> Do you think the coat is for a woman, Sarge? I looked at the left front panel and see more than one button hole, so the coat must button the way men's coats, jackets etc., all button -- with the left panel buttoning on to the right panel where the buttons are stitched. Does this logic make sense, or am I mistaken somehow?
> 
> Of course, clothes designed for men are worn extensively by women, so this is probably a moot point! And that turtle neck under the coat looks more feminine than masculine, so you may be right about the overall ensemble.


I tried to tell from the buttons whether it was a man's or a woman's coat and couldn't be sure but it was the overall effect I was talking about. Maybe it's supposed to be gender neutral for the modern age?


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 64966


Tasty! 👍


----------



## drpeter

Oldsarge said:


> I tried to tell from the buttons whether it was a man's or a woman's coat and couldn't be sure but it was the overall effect I was talking about. Maybe it's supposed to be gender neutral for the modern age?


It might be gender-neutral. I have a sweater that has a full zip, and it is difficult to tell if it is for a man or a woman -- probably neutral. I wear it, it does not bother me at all.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

I feel like we've seen this one before, but in case we haven't, it's too nice a coat not to show.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 64997
> 
> I feel like we've seen this one before, but in case we haven't, it's too nice a coat not to show.


And a good 'geezer power' as well.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 64997
> 
> I feel like we've seen this one before, but in case we haven't, it's too nice a coat not to show.


Serious tweed, for serious warmth! 👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 65052


It all plays so well together, the whole is even better than the parts.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 65052





eagle2250 said:


> It all plays so well together, the whole is even better than the parts.


I think we've seen this one or a similar one before - not a criticism as I post plenty of dupes, but I only remember it as I thought it was really nice and not the most-common combination (as Eagle says, the whole is better than the parts). It's nice to see the classic elements put together in a different combo. Well done. I'm going to remember this one for myself as I have all the pieces (or items pretty close to them).

Edit add: Back in Ivy's heyday, a pair of scuffed-up white bucks would be the perfect shoe for the outfit.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 65061


Though it incorporate a few of my pet peeves, the tweed is fabulous, and the entire effect stunning! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 65071


tastefully monochromatic.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Oldsarge said:


> tastefully monochromatic.


I find it tasteful as well. To say so feels odd as I have yet to wear lavender anything.


----------



## Flanderian

Vecchio Vespa said:


> I find it tasteful as well. To say so feels odd as I have yet to wear lavender anything.


Never too late to start!










Though it might be closer to heather -


----------



## StephenRG

Vecchio Vespa said:


> I find it tasteful as well. To say so feels odd as I have yet to wear lavender anything.


If you have the wrong complexion, lavender can look terrible.


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> If you have the wrong complexion, lavender can look terrible.


I know, it makes me look like a tired old man. 😭


----------



## Oldsarge

Well, being a tired old man, maybe I should give it a try.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## StephenRG

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 65091


IMO an obviously outdoorsy jacket doesn't pair well with a bowtie. I would prefer a cravat.


----------



## Oldsarge

StephenRG said:


> IMO an obviously outdoorsy jacket doesn't pair well with a bowtie. I would prefer a cravat.


Good point. Even on the grouse moors the long necktie is _de riguere_.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 65091


Great tweed! :loveyou:



StephenRG said:


> IMO an obviously outdoorsy jacket doesn't pair well with a bowtie. I would prefer a cravat.


But I must agree with Mr. RG. Seems a bit incongruous. Rather like Mr. Peepers in The Snows of Kilimanjaro. A cravat/day cravat/ascot would be great, though I'd also like a neckerchief.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Though this nonsense of leaving the collar buttons undone does get tedious.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Though this nonsense of leaving the collar buttons undone does get tedious.


👍

Edit: Plus, you need to teach him how to groom a beard! :teacha:


----------



## Fading Fast

@Oldsarge and with the collar buttons actually buttoned (resulting in some nice collar roll).


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 65114
> 
> @Oldsarge and with the collar buttons actually buttoned (resulting in some nice collar roll).


Great tweed! :icon_cheers:

(And the fella even shaved his neck! )


----------



## Flanderian

A little much waist suppression for me, but not too bad.

Nice example of a tweed suit with a T-neck.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 65167


Very cool!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 65202


Wow, russet herringbone, a rare shade and very nice!👍

And I like the tie also. But the shirt just further convinces me that lighter shades of grey next to the face do not flatter most men.


----------



## Flanderian

Tweed and tartan -


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Tweed and tartan -
> 
> View attachment 65210


About as close to perfection as it gets.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> Tweed and tartan -
> 
> View attachment 65210


At one level this is utterly unremarkable - which at another level tells you how well balanced it is.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 65228


Nice rig...including the denims.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## challer

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 65304


I'm&#8230;. No


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 65304


I am at once impressed and also cowed by the clear substance of that jacket, but I really like the shirt and the tie that has been paired with that imposing Tweed.


----------



## Fading Fast

challer said:


> I'm&#8230;. No





eagle2250 said:


> I am at once impressed and also cowed by the clear substance of that jacket, but I really like the shirt and the tie that has been paired with that imposing Tweed.


I can't think of one time in my fifty-seven years when I could have worn that Tweed and not have stood out quite loudly. That said, like @eagle2250, I'm impressed with it as a Tweed and agreed that it has been paired up well. I just have no, and never have had any, use for a jacket like that.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Fading Fast said:


> I can't think of one time in my fifty-seven years when I could have worn that Tweed and not have stood out quite loudly. That said, like @eagle2250, I'm impressed with it as a Tweed and agreed that it has been paired up well. I just have no, and never have had any, use for a jacket like that.


No use for the Mr. Ed look?


----------



## Oldsarge

eagle2250 said:


> I am at once impressed and also cowed by the clear substance of that jacket, but I really like the shirt and the tie that has been paired with that imposing Tweed.


Ditto!


----------



## Oviatt

First day in SoCal that is tweed-friendly so I am leaning into it!


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## fishertw

eagle2250 said:


> Nice rig...including the denims.


I still have a very difficult time with any sort of sport coat/blazer etc. with denim. (but then again, I'm old)


----------



## eagle2250

fishertw said:


> I still have a very difficult time with any sort of sport coat/blazer etc. with denim. (but then again, I'm old)


LOL. I've found sartorial; blasphemy coming more easily to me as the years pass. Admittedly others pull it off with perhaps more elan than I might muster, but on the other hard, as the years pile up, I find myself concluding "what the f..k" and wear what moves me at the moment! Try it, my friend...it's kind of fun.


----------



## challer

fishertw said:


> I still have a very difficult time with any sort of sport coat/blazer etc. with denim. (but then again, I'm old)


I'm 60, am I old? Denim and blazers/tweed is now a very real thing - and I find myself enjoying it greatly.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

challer said:


> I'm 60, am I old? Denim and blazers/tweed is now a very real thing - and I find myself enjoying it greatly.


Sixty is clearly not old! The combination of an odd jacket and jeans is terrific. In the fall or spring it works with sockless loafers, and in Texas winters it is great with boots.


----------



## David J. Cooper

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 65304


I hope it's a suit.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

David J. Cooper said:


> I hope it's a suit.


Bert Parks would have loved it!

I am not dissing him. He really projected that kind of zany super well. I miss his presence.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## immanuelrx

Looks like I will be able to contribute to one of my favorite threads just in time for fall. I have this in the pipeline that should be done next month. I'll post pictures next month when it's done. I'm going for a three piece.


----------



## StephenRG

immanuelrx said:


> Looks like I will be able to contribute to one of my favorite threads just in time for fall. I have this in the pipeline that should be done next month. I'll post pictures next month when it's done. I'm going for a three piece.
> View attachment 65383
> 
> View attachment 65385
> View attachment 65387


"Dem bones dem bones dem herringbones"


----------



## Fading Fast

As an extra for today and stepping outside our usual box, I had to post these pics I came across yesterday as they combine two of my favorite things in this world: Tweed and Grace Kelly.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 65733


I really like the Estate Jacket air of the pictured jacket's design. From the pic, it appears the fabric of that coat will wear like iron! However, the model might want to bump it up a size...for comfort.


----------



## Fading Fast

Circa 1950s Harris Tweed overcoat.


----------



## Flanderian

immanuelrx said:


> Looks like I will be able to contribute to one of my favorite threads just in time for fall. I have this in the pipeline that should be done next month. I'll post pictures next month when it's done. I'm going for a three piece.
> View attachment 65383
> 
> View attachment 65385
> View attachment 65387


Wonderful cloth!



Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 65411
> 
> 
> As an extra for today and stepping outside our usual box, I had to post these pics I came across yesterday as they combine two of my favorite things in this world: Tweed and Grace Kelly.
> View attachment 65409
> View attachment 65413


Lovely lady!



Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 65411
> 
> 
> As an extra for today and stepping outside our usual box, I had to post these pics I came across yesterday as they combine two of my favorite things in this world: Tweed and Grace Kelly.
> View attachment 65409
> View attachment 65413





Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 65577


Perfect! :loveyou:



Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 65733


Great cloth and style, but too snug.



Fading Fast said:


> Circa 1950s Harris Tweed overcoat.
> View attachment 65761


Magnificent! :icon_cheers:

It's you, buy it!


----------



## Flanderian

Tartan and tweed.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 65789


A very handsome Herringbone Tweed, the collar roll is perfect, the tie is a perfect complement to the other components of the rig, and believe it or not, I even see the pocket square as a positive in this instance. For me, that doesn't happen very often! LOL.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 65789


*YOWZER! :happy:*

I'll even forgive the shoulder top gorges.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## David J. Cooper

I love it, but it seems a little forced. What possible reason would you wear a Rugby shirt over a shirt and tie? I suppose the answer could be “for a RL photo shoot”.


----------



## Fading Fast

David J. Cooper said:


> I love it, but it seems a little forced. What possible reason would you wear a Rugby shirt over a shirt and tie? I suppose the answer could be "for a RL photo shoot".


I agree. From memory, Ralph was doing that in his late '80 / early '90s ads all the time.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

David J. Cooper said:


> I love it, but it seems a little forced. What possible reason would you wear a Rugby shirt over a shirt and tie? I suppose the answer could be "for a RL photo shoot".





Fading Fast said:


> I agree. From memory, Ralph was doing that in his late '80 / early '90s ads all the time.


I agree, everything very nice, but an excuse to jam as many items into one ensemble as possible for marketing reasons.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 66061


Very nice! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Those ain't jeans, are they!?


----------



## Flanderian

Fox Brothers tweed -

It's autumn, boys! :happy:


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## never behind

Little too monochromatic for me. The individual pieces are nice; makes me want to wear my flannels.


----------



## Fading Fast

never behind said:


> Little too monochromatic for me. The individual pieces are nice; makes me want to wear my flannels.


Those flannels look awesome, don't they? Love the side tabs too.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 66165


Love both the tweed and the flannel. The flannel in particular looks as if it's a 1/2 inch thick and soft as a cloud! :loveyou:


----------



## Flanderian

Cleav the immaculate! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 66259


Beautiful! :icon_cheers:

A rare tweed on tweed homerun!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 66277


Gosh, I have all those pieces in my closet but never thought of combining them. That may be my Sunday morning.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Gosh, I have all those pieces in my closet but never thought of combining them. That may be my Sunday morning.


👍 👍 👍

But you gotta wear a pocket square!


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> 👍 👍 👍
> 
> But you gotta wear a pocket square!


I LIKE pocket squares! I gotta bunch.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> I LIKE pocket squares! I gotta bunch.


Indeed!

I had FF in mind.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> I LIKE pocket squares! I gotta bunch.





Flanderian said:


> Indeed!
> 
> I had FF in mind.


Because of guys like you, whom I greatly respect, I try to keep an open mind about PSs, but still find, IMHO, 90% of the time either none or a discreet band of white peaking up from the pocket is better. I do wish I had worn the white one more when I wore suits, but alas.

IMHO, in the outfit in question, the PS neither adds nor subtracts anything from it.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> I LIKE pocket squares! I gotta bunch.


I've got a stack of folded pocket squares in my dresser, but I almost never use them. On the other hand I picked up several bandanas at the urging of a few members herein and I've used them with surprising frequency. Bottom line...I think I have just too much hillbilly in me to 'wear the square(s)' and just enough cowboy to get good use from the bandanas. Just saying...... LOL.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Because of guys like you, whom I greatly respect, I try to keep an open mind about PSs, but still find, IMHO, 90% of the time either none or a discreet band of white peaking up from the pocket is better. I do wish I had worn the white one more when I wore suits, but alas.
> 
> IMHO, in the outfit in question, the PS neither adds nor subtracts anything from it.


While I generally view the absence of a PS as a missed opportunity, it's truly only an issue of preference, not a character flaw. Both its absence and the TV fold are hallmarks of mid-50's minimalism.



Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 66387


Magnificent tweed! :icon_cheers:



eagle2250 said:


> I've got a stack of folded pocket squares in my dresser, but I almost never use them. On the other hand I picked up several bandanas at the urging of a few members herein and I've used them with surprising frequency. Bottom line...I think I have just too much hillbilly in me to 'wear the square(s)' and just enough cowboy to get good use from the bandanas. Just saying...... LOL.


Tsk-tsk! We all appreciate your savoir faire! :teacha:

And below is my humble contribution to the world of tweed. This photo a trifecta: lovely tweed, worn with a T-neck, and a wordless explication on the value of the PS.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Oldsarge

I especially like the PS. A spot of bright fall coloring goes well.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 66479


Absolutely perfect! 👍

(And, wow, four patterns! including the PS! )


----------



## Flanderian

DB tweed!


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> DB tweed!
> 
> View attachment 66499


I find this a little odd. A double-breasted, check tweed, three-piece with a white linen PS seems internally inconsistent, a blend of formal and casual that leaves me shaking my head.


----------



## Oldsarge

This is more to my taste.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> I find this a little odd. A double-breasted, check tweed, three-piece with a white linen PS seems internally inconsistent, a blend of formal and casual that leaves me shaking my head.


While nominally a white PS is universal, in this instance I think you're correct, the ensemble could be better served.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 66613


Wonderful tweed! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Denim and tweed. What a marvelous harmony of textures!


----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 66533
> 
> 
> This is more to my taste.


Wearing a three piece suit, I think a tie is almost mandatory. Just my opinion.


----------



## Guest

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 50437


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fom a current listing on Etsy.
Imagine, for $275, half the price of a plain jane sport coat from a J. Press or the like.










Sarge and I, we're dabbing at the drool on our chins. (Anybody else?)










It's from English maker Bladen. The most recent posting in October purchases showcases another Bladen, one I bought tonight. Quite a few pegs south of this one though. But for $25 ($50's the limit and the groans get louder after 35) I think I can work mine into maybe a squire to the above one's knight.


----------



## Oldsarge

I'm not just drooling, I'm whimpering with envy!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> Fom a current listing on Etsy.
> Imagine, for $275, half the price of a plain jane sport coat from a J. Press or the like.
> 
> View attachment 66739
> 
> 
> Sarge and I, we're dabbing at the drool on our chins. (Anybody else?)
> 
> View attachment 66743
> 
> 
> It's from English maker Bladen. The most recent posting in October purchases showcases another Bladen, one I bought tonight. Quite a few pegs south of this one though. But for $25 ($50's the limit and the groans get louder after 35) I think I can work mine into maybe a squire to the above one's knight.


The above picture is a stunningly handsome jacket...one that I would love to have in my closet, for wearing when we make our Fall trip(s) north!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 66745


Very handsome!

Love the coat, jacket, and sweater(?) but would need to change the shirt and tie due to monochriomatic overload. And because I'm not fond of either on their own either.


----------



## Oldsarge

It's a frighteningly ugly combination, that shirt and tie.


----------



## Flanderian

Bold glencheck tweed. Overcoat, I believe.


----------



## ItalianStyle

Did he choose to only put the fingers of his gloves in that pocket or does he have really small gloves?
He seems to have found room for both gloves (unless he has 6 fingers on one hand...).


----------



## Flanderian

ItalianStyle said:


> Did he choose to only put the fingers of his gloves in that pocket or does he have really small gloves?
> He seems to have found room for both gloves (unless he has 6 fingers on one hand...).


  

:beer:


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 66835


Marvelous coat, marvelous ensemble! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Flanderian

And since we're on the topic of Raglan sleeve coats (An FF preference I believe.) here's a snippet showing the detail of a shoulder rendered in a very handsome blue-grey herringbone.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Marvelous coat, marvelous ensemble! :icon_cheers:


I really like this one too. Has a very '30s echo. He looks as if he walked out of the pages of Apparel Arts.



Flanderian said:


> And since we're on the topic of Raglan sleeve coats (An FF preference I believe.) here's a snippet showing the detail of shoulder rendered in a very handsome blue-grey herringbone.
> 
> View attachment 66841


Raindrops on roses and whiskers on kitchens and raglan sleeves...


----------



## semil

ItalianStyle said:


> Did he choose to only put the fingers of his gloves in that pocket or does he have really small gloves?
> He seems to have found room for both gloves (unless he has 6 fingers on one hand...).


I thought we were supposed to put our masks in that pocket.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Fading Fast said:


> Raindrops on roses and whiskers on kitchens and raglan sleeves...


Whiskers on _kitchens_? Check with Julie, see if she's okay with that. Meanwhile...










Smooth fit. Shoulders on point. Gauntlets and mailbox pockets. Much wow to see here. Windy too. Close them windows.


----------



## 127.72 MHz

I have a thornproof that looks to almost be this texture. I just love it.

If I could identify the mill I would purchase two or three yards and have Hemrajani make one for me.


----------



## 215339

Peak and Pine said:


> Whiskers on _kitchens_? Check with Julie, see if she's okay with that. Meanwhile...
> 
> View attachment 66843
> 
> 
> Smooth fit. Shoulders on point. Gauntlets and mailbox pockets. Much wow to see here. Windy too. Close them windows.


This is interesting, a lot of waist suppression on this coat.

Mailbox pockets with no flap look off to my eye, but look much more stuffable with your hands.


----------



## irish95

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 66745


Fantastic. A bit of the 90's with the shirt and tie, but looks great. Another home run FF.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Peak and Pine

Top notch, Sarge. Reminds me of something I saw on Etsy last month. This...










This was the listing...










As usual, private sellers' pictures don't do justice. Wanna know why it says sold out? Maybe because it's on the back of my chair. Fit is close. Needs to be buttered up though. I think I'm the only one that knows what that means. Stay tuned.


----------



## Peak and Pine

delicious_scent said:


> This is interesting, a lot of waist suppression on this coat.
> 
> Mailbox pockets with no flap look off to my eye, but look much more stuffable with your hands.


I think the suppression fits with the shoulder shape. The whole thing is _fitted_, while not to be confused with _slim or tight _. The mail boxes may have the flaps tucked in.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## 215339

Peak and Pine said:


> I think the suppression fits with the shoulder shape. The whole thing is _fitted_, while not to be confused with _slim or tight _. The mail boxes may have the flaps tucked in.


I agree, I haven't seen this done well before on an actual person, outside of an Apparel Arts picture.

I wonder what causes this effect? I don't know how to put it into words.


----------



## Flanderian

Bright shining tweed! irate:


----------



## Peak and Pine

From The Tweed Shop, tweeds made in England but sold on-line from Germany. €890, which is about a US grand. Comes with instructions for home cleaning of jacket, raising Dobermans and seizing Belgium.


----------



## Oldsarge

Wouldn't they want the Alsace before Belgium?


----------



## Peak and Pine

Doubtful. They already had that once, after the Franco Prussian thing. This year they're into chocolates and waffles. Blame Angela.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## kev'n

Oldsarge said:


> Beautiful collection of colors, textures and patterns but an unbuttoned OCBD? Really?


One only has Gianni Agnelli, a Italian business magnate and stylish gent to thank for this. He did it as a trademark of sorts.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 67111


Great tweed with handsome, functional details. :loveyou:


----------



## Flanderian

Hearty tweed -


----------



## Oldsarge

kev'n said:


> One only has Gianni Agnelli, a Italian business magnate and stylish gent to thank for this. He did it as a trademark of sorts.


And he wore his wristwatch on the outside of his cuffs and tied his tie with the narrow end in front. Yeesh!


----------



## kev'n

LOL


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 67267


Great tweed! 👍



Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 67293


Beautiful tweed, and all the components, though I might wish a non-monochromatic shirt substituted for this specific composition. 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Tom Jones'en excepted, very nice!


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Love the trousers.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Love the trousers.
> 
> View attachment 67333


Now that is by all definitions a "great coat!" Bullet proof, for sure.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Love the trousers.
> 
> View attachment 67333


Wonderful coat! I find myself comforted just looking at it. :loveyou:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Really nice Tweed with cords pairing.


----------



## drpeter

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 67387


Tweed jackets and corduroy trousers are a favourite combination of mine, especially during the cool autumn days here in Wisconsin. One of these days, I'll have to try the converse: A corduroy jacket with tweed trousers.


----------



## drpeter

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 67293


Love the sweater!


----------



## drpeter

Oldsarge said:


> Wouldn't they want the Alsace before Belgium?


Well, Sarge, I think they would first want to go for the Sudetenland.


----------



## Fading Fast

drpeter said:


> Tweed jackets and corduroy trousers are a favourite combination of mine, especially during the cool autumn days here in Wisconsin. One of these days, I'll have to try the converse: A corduroy jacket with tweed trousers.


I've been thinking about a corduroy sport coat too. Since I haven't owned one in thirty years, it might be fun. But as I always note, I don't have too many opportunity to wear the clothes I already own, so buying more is silly. But a corduroy sport coat with heavy tweed or flannel pants just sounds like a wonderful fall/winter combo.



drpeter said:


> Love the sweater!


Agreed. Like the entire look.


----------



## The Great Garbanzo

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 67387


I was wearing the identical color pants the other day.

I was filling up at a gas station when a white Volvo SUV pulled into the next bay, I drive a white Volvo S90. A woman of my age, 60's, jumps out of the vehicle to pump gas as well. I took me a minute to notice as I was a bit drawn to her face but she had the same color pants as I.

We had a good chuckle!!


----------



## The Great Garbanzo

Flanderian said:


> Fox Brothers tweed -
> 
> It's autumn, boys! :happy:
> 
> View attachment 66119


I wish I could wear a coat like this....


----------



## The Great Garbanzo

Fading Fast said:


> I've been thinking about a corduroy sport coat too. Since I haven't owned one in thirty years, it might be fun. But as I always note, I don't have too many opportunity to wear the clothes I already own, so buying more is silly. But a corduroy sport coat with heavy tweed or flannel pants just sounds like a wonderful fall/winter combo.
> 
> Agreed. Like the entire look.


I bought a fine wale tan just the other day due to this darned forum.

I work with several 30's age group associates and was expecting some jibes from the tan shoes with skinny calf hugging navy slacks crowd.

Surprised they all complimented the look....there's hope yet!!


----------



## drpeter

Fading Fast said:


> I don't have too many opportunity to wear the clothes I already own, so buying more is silly


I have lately taken a different perspective on occasions: I simply wear the clothes I want to wear, and often, this may be an occasion where others if present are not dressed in the same way as I am. So you simply declare the occasion to be appropriate for a sports jacket, decent trousers and good shoes. This is quite all right, especially if you can deflect their comments about your being "dressed up". I have all sorts of replies to that, which often amuse them, and also defuse their "objections". To wit:

For me, being dressed up is wearing black tie. Everything else is casual. (Channeling Ernest Rutherford (or Lord Kelvin) who said that in science there is only physics; all the rest is just stamp collecting)

Dressed up? You should see me when I am dressed down.

Oh no, a sports jacket is my comfort wear, rather like sweats for you. It's like mashed potatoes in the comfort food department. So, to stretch things, white tie would be Chateaubriand.

I'm so tired of seeing everyone in jeans or sweats. A decent pair of trousers would be like a lifeboat in the vast sea of blue denim, wouldn't you say?

Haven't you heard of business casual? Today our business is lunch and so I'm dressed appropriately.

Didn't you tell me you were having trouble finding a date? Try dressing in sportcoats, grey flannels and good leather shoes. The ladies notice such things, and you will be an instant hit.

There are two kinds of people in this world, my friend: Those who wear sportcoats and grey flannels, and those who wear sweatshirts and sweatpants. You do the sweats and I'll do the sportcoats and flannels.

(Drawing myself up to look like Eastwood -- this is NOT easy for an Asian Indian who is 5'-7"): Go ahead. Make my day.

I've got all these clothes. No one else really wants them. So I thought I'd just wear them all, one at a time, until I die.

And so on...


----------



## 215339

drpeter said:


> I have lately taken a different perspective on occasions: I simply wear the clothes I want to wear, and often, this may be an occasion where others if present are not dressed in the same way as I am. So you simply declare the occasion to be appropriate for a sports jacket, decent trousers and good shoes. This is quite all right, especially if you can deflect their comments about your being "dressed up". I have all sorts of replies to that, which often amuse them, and also defuse their "objections". To wit:
> 
> For me, being dressed up is wearing black tie. Everything else is casual. (Channeling Ernest Rutherford (or Lord Kelvin) who said that in science there is only physics; all the rest is just stamp collecting)
> 
> Dressed up? You should see me when I am dressed down.
> 
> *Oh no, a sports jacket is my comfort wear, rather like sweats for you. It's like mashed potatoes in the comfort food department. So, to stretch things, white tie would be Chateaubriand.*
> 
> I'm so tired of seeing everyone in jeans or sweats. A decent pair of trousers would be like a lifeboat in the vast sea of blue denim, wouldn't you say?
> 
> Haven't you heard of business casual? Today our business is lunch and so I'm dressed appropriately.
> 
> *Didn't you tell me you were having trouble finding a date? Try dressing in sportcoats, grey flannels and good leather shoes. The ladies notice such things, and you will be an instant hit.
> 
> There are two kinds of people in this world, my friend: Those who wear sportcoats and grey flannels, and those who wear sweatshirts and sweatpants. You do the sweats and I'll do the sportcoats and flannels.*
> 
> (Drawing myself up to look like Eastwood -- this is NOT easy for an Asian Indian who is 5'-7"): Go ahead. Make my day.
> 
> I've got all these clothes. No one else really wants them. So I thought I'd just wear them all, one at a time, until I die.
> 
> And so on...


Hmm, I'd be offput by some of those comments, they come across as condescending.

As classic menswear is a dying aesthetic, the last thing I'd want to do is alienate more people.

SCs and flannels and sweatshirts and sweatpants can co-exist in a person's wardrobe as well. Depending on a person's mood, they can go out dressed in either ensemble.

If I'm asked why I'm dressed up, I simply say "I enjoy it, it's fun". It puts the onus on me and no one else.


----------



## Flanderian

drpeter said:


> Tweed jackets and corduroy trousers are a favourite combination of mine, especially during the cool autumn days here in Wisconsin. One of these days, I'll have to try the converse: A corduroy jacket with tweed trousers.


PB & J!


----------



## Flanderian

The Great Garbanzo said:


> I wish I could wear a coat like this....


Bet you could!


----------



## Flanderian

drpeter said:


> I have lately taken a different perspective on occasions: I simply wear the clothes I want to wear,


The alpha and omega. 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Really nice Tweed with cords pairing.
> 
> View attachment 67475


Exceptional in every regard! :loveyou:


----------



## Oldsarge

I need a "jeans jacket". TweedyDon is looking for me.


----------



## drpeter

delicious_scent said:


> Hmm, I'd be offput by some of those comments, they come across as condescending.
> 
> As classic menswear is a dying aesthetic, the last thing I'd want to do is alienate more people.
> 
> SCs and flannels and sweatshirts and sweatpants can co-exist in a person's wardrobe as well. Depending on a person's mood, they can go out dressed in either ensemble.
> 
> If I'm asked why I'm dressed up, I simply say "I enjoy it, it's fun". It puts the onus on me and no one else.


I wouldn't actually use _all_ of those comments in real life! In fact, some of those were just invented on the spot, for a laugh.

And in general, any one of those would be meant for friends I have known for years, so there is zero risk of causing offence. They would clearly realize that it was a humorous response to their comment. And to be honest, I have yet to have anyone take offence at such rejoinders.


----------



## 215339

drpeter said:


> I wouldn't actually use _all_ of those comments in real life! In fact, some of those were just invented on the spot, for a laugh.
> 
> And in general, any one of those would be meant for friends I have known for years, so there is zero risk of causing offence. They would clearly realize that it was a humorous response to their comment. And to be honest, I have yet to have anyone take offence at such rejoinders.


Ahhhh, my bad for misinterpreting then Doc.

It definitely all takes on a different tone when you read it as busting your friends' balls to mess with them.


----------



## drpeter

delicious_scent said:


> Ahhhh, my bad for misinterpreting then Doc.
> 
> It definitely all takes on a different tone when you read it as busting your friends' balls to mess with them.


Quite all right, my friend. I'm very glad you understood that it was all in fun. I'm usually very careful not to say something that might hurt or wound another person -- but these few fellows have earned it, you would not believe some of the things _they_ say to me! Since we have been friends for decades, we have no hesitation in lighting into one another occasionally. It's part of close friendship, that you can have the freedom to be sharp with one another on occasion.


----------



## 215339

drpeter said:


> Quite all right, my friend. I'm very glad you understood that it was all in fun. I'm usually very careful not to say something that might hurt or wound another person -- but these few fellows have earned it, you would not believe some of the things _they_ say to me! *Since we have been friends for decades, we have no hesitation in lighting into one another occasionally. It's part of close friendship, that you can have the freedom to be sharp with one another on occasion.*


Amen, it's great that you have such friendships!

I hope to have friendships that will last decades too, I also enjoy lightly harassing my loved ones.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 67561


It may just be camera angle or perhaps my vision is simply playing tricks on me, but is the picture above of a woman's tweed jacket? The proportion of the shoulders, the lack of a left breast pocket and the pitch and lay of the collar and lapels compel me to ask! No offense intended.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> It may just be camera angle or perhaps my vision is simply playing tricks on me, but is the picture above of a woman's tweed jacket? The proportion of the shoulders, the lack of a left breast pocket and the pitch and lay of the collar and lapels compel me to ask! No offense intended.


You may be right. I didn't notice that at all until you pointed it out, but all the evidence you note has me leaning to your call.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> It may just be camera angle or perhaps my vision is simply playing tricks on me, but is the picture above of a woman's tweed jacket? The proportion of the shoulders, the lack of a left breast pocket and the pitch and lay of the collar and lapels compel me to ask! No offense intended.


+1.


----------



## Flanderian

Hipster tweed -


----------



## Oldsarge

Though to be a true hipster, he needs a long, bushy beard. I have a short, wiry one because my whiskers don't bush.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Good looking tweed coat -


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Good looking tweed coat -
> 
> View attachment 67773


And a mustache right out of the 30's


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Oldsarge said:


> Though to be a true hipster, he needs a long, bushy beard. I have a short, wiry one because my whiskers don't bush.


Portland must have a better grade of hipster. In Austin he'd more likely be in tight jeans, a lumberjack plaid flannel shirt, black Chuck Taylors, and a scuzzy watch cap with some weird logo.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> And a mustache right out of the 30's


That used to be *my* mustache.

I sold it to him.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Good looking tweed coat -
> 
> View attachment 67773


⇧ Wonderful looking coat.


----------



## 215339




----------



## Peak and Pine

^^^

I do not advocate violence against people who dress like that, but that guy's lucky to have a dog to ward off those that do.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Wonderful looking coat.
> View attachment 67965


👍 👍 👍



delicious_scent said:


>


I like the dog! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Flanderian

Even with the shoulder top gorges, I like it!


----------



## 215339

Peak and Pine said:


> ^^^
> 
> I do not advocate violence against people who dress like that, but that guy's lucky to have a dog to ward off those that do.





Flanderian said:


> 👍 👍 👍
> 
> I like the dog! :icon_cheers:


I also love the dog.

The dressing is not to my taste, it's definitely quite vintage and a particular aesthetic.

I was struck by the blue tweed coat. I was basically considering the same fabric for a coat a year ago, and I'm glad I didn't go for it.

Nice as a 5th or 6th coat, but wouldn't be very versatile.


----------



## Peak and Pine

delicious_scent said:


> I was struck by the blue tweed coat. I was basically considering the same fabric for a coat a year ago, and I'm glad I didn't go for it.


I think the coat's fine, tho the belt seems high. As does the wearer. But the whole combo rots. As wearing a matching tie and square is frowned upon, so should wearing a matching flat cap, maybe any hat, and coat be likewise.


----------



## Fading Fast

A quirky current offering from J.Crew

[HEADING=2]Camden slip-on loafers in Harris Tweed[/HEADING]


----------



## Peak and Pine

Mine. Thanksgiving tweed, or hoped to be. It was pulled from a trunk over the weekend where it's been for the past three years. New-to-me with no visible signs of wear, but not yet worn by me. Must have been worn by someone tho, since I bought it second-hand; a lover, a joker, a midnight toker? A guy holding up a 7-11?

It needs work, tho not much. But it has to fit the new owner precisely, both in body and whim and to that end I put it on my fitting form, Mr. Tickles, and took this pic. For my own records. And will work on it evenings this week, and put up a pic or two along the way.


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> 👍 👍 👍
> 
> I like the dog! :icon_cheers:


Now wait a minute.....who among us is going to say that great coat isn't....well, isn't great? Although I do agree the knickers are arguably a bit too kitsy1 Just saying........


----------



## challer

eagle2250 said:


> Now wait a minute.....who among us is going to say that great coat isn't....well, isn't great? Although I do agree the knickers are arguably a bit too kitsy1 Just saying........


The guy appears to prefer dressing in costume - or in some other affected manner. Yep, some of the elements are great. I get a great more of illustrations that possess more a real world quality, particularly if I can purchase them. The costumes are tweed porn.


----------



## 215339

challer said:


> The guy appears to prefer dressing in costume - or in some other affected manner. Yep, some of the elements are great. I get a great more of illustrations that possess more a real world quality, particularly if I can purchase them. The costumes are tweed porn.


Everything posted on this board is an affected costume to the average person.

Personally, I don't think the word costume holds meaning anymore. Anything outside of strict business casual is a costume.

Might as well have fun with it, even if that guy's dressing is not my preferred aesthetic.

Oh, the coat can be bought at Simon James Cathcart.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> A quirky current offering from J.Crew
> 
> [HEADING=2]Camden slip-on loafers in Harris Tweed[/HEADING]
> View attachment 68031
> View attachment 68033


Ultra  and practical too! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Flanderian

More hipster Harris -


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> More hipster Harris -
> 
> View attachment 68083


Ahhh, yisssss!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 68103


Great tweed and great Fairisle! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Great tweed and great Fairisle! :icon_cheers:


I thought it was a very nice combo of two things I love.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 68141


The above is potentially a magnificent Tweed. Is it possible to get a picture of the entire jacket?


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> The above is potentially a magnificent Tweed. Is it possible to get a picture of the entire jacket?


Had the same thought as it looks like an incredibly heavy and beautiful jacket, but that pic was all I found of it.


----------



## Tweedlover

Flanderian said:


> More hipster Harris -
> 
> View attachment 68083


1 of the few times I've seen a youngin in a fedora which looks good on him. Of course, it's the wearing of that suit with it which makes it work.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 68141


Wow! What a tweed! What a harmony! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Flanderian

Hipster Harris -


----------



## 215339

Flanderian said:


> Hipster Harris -
> 
> View attachment 68153


A lot of these are from Thomas Farthing.


----------



## Oldsarge

Uh, no.


----------



## Flanderian

Something special. Belted Magee Irish herringbone tweed coat with raglan shoulders and balmacaan collar. From the nice folks at O'Connell's.








1


----------



## 215339

@Flanderian as classic as it gets. Love the texture. Definitely seems like a @Fading Fast coat.

Here is jumbo herringbone!

















Here


----------



## Tweedlover

Flanderian said:


> Hipster Harris -
> 
> View attachment 68153


Love the fedora.


----------



## Flanderian

delicious_scent said:


> @Flanderian as classic as it gets. Love the texture. Definitely seems like a @Fading Fast coat.
> 
> Here is jumbo herringbone!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here


Wonderful coat! And the scarf is perfect with it! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Fading Fast

delicious_scent said:


> @Flanderian as classic as it gets. Love the texture. Definitely seems like a @Fading Fast coat.
> 
> Here is jumbo herringbone!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here


Spot on, right up my alley.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Wonderful coat! And the scarf is perfect with it! :icon_cheers:


Love the coat...wish I had one in my closet, but I don't. However, Christmas is coming, but then rumor has it that Santa has put me on his/her permanent naughty list. Bummer.  LOL.


----------



## EclecticSr.

eagle2250 said:


> Love the coat...wish I had one in my closet, but I don't. However, Christmas is coming, but then rumor has it that Santa has put me on his/her permanent naughty list. Bummer.  LOL.


His/her?


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 68265


Very cozy!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 68265


Very nice! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

More hipster Harris -


----------



## eagle2250

EclecticSr. said:


> His/her?


Just covering my bases. These days one can't be certain if Santa is a he or a she? LOL.


----------



## Oldsarge

Is this a duplicate?


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 68305
> 
> 
> Is this a duplicate?


Love everything (bowtie in particular) but the PS, which to my eye, hurts the aesthetic of the outfit.



Flanderian said:


> More hipster Harris -
> 
> View attachment 68283


Also feels very 1930s to me as I could see this entire outfit in an Apparel Arts issue.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 68305
> 
> 
> Is this a duplicate?


Lovely tweeds! 👍



Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 68323


Very nice and very interesting combination of features! 👍

I generally don't prefer lapels this wide or gorges this high, but must acknowledge that here they work well with the overall design. Boffo tweed! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Flanderian

The Resurrected Man! You won't see this again! (But struck by its similarities to FF's jacket.) From the *1975 *fall and winter Paul Stuart catalog, an item they term their Walking Jacket. Scottish tweed made up by Samuelsohn. Note pocket treatment, belt and raglan shoulders. A seeming steal at $215, but a pretty penny at the time.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 68357


Very nice tweed, and tailoring details. 👍


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 68373


Nice tweed! 👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ very nice


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ very nice
> 
> View attachment 68465


Nice! Very nice! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Fuzzy tweed -


----------



## Oldsarge

LIKE fuzzy!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 68503


Lovely tweed!


----------



## Flanderian

A button too far, but otherwise, nice!


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 68715


Beautiful tweeds! :icon_cheers:

Some might argue the shirt is too dressy for the ensemble, I'm less of a stickler. Ditto 2 tweeds, but there is some contrast. Wonderful tie needs a dimple!


----------



## Flanderian

Rust Donegal anyone?


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 68715


I WANT that tie! And, of course, the jacket and vest are lovely, too.


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> I WANT that tie! And, of course, the jacket and vest are lovely, too.


When I saw it, my first thought was it's very "Oldsarge" outfit.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Tweedlover

Flanderian said:


> The Resurrected Man! You won't see this again! (But struck by its similarities to FF's jacket.) From the *1975 *fall and winter Paul Stuart catalog, an item they term their Walking Jacket. Scottish tweed made up by Samuelsohn. Note pocket treatment, belt and raglan shoulders. A seeming steal at $215, but a pretty penny at the time.
> 
> View attachment 68351


Sure, the jacket is fine. But, again, it's the cap that puts the final touches on it.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 68803


A whole lot of tweed, but gorgeous ones! I'd buy it, if the shirt collar could be made to comport better aesthetically with the ensemble.



Tweedlover said:


> Sure, the jacket is fine. But, again, it's the cap that puts the final touches on it.


Very true!

But the composition in toto is bit of art. The product of having the best art directors and ad photographers in the world available, and paying the bucks to hire them.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> A whole lot of tweed, but gorgeous ones! I'd buy it, if the shirt collar could be made to comport better aesthetically with the ensemble.


I like each piece, but think the vest is too much with the sport coat. I'm on the fence about the shirt as the denim texture works well with Tweed, just not sure about the pin collar.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I like each piece, but think the vest is too much with the sport coat. I'm on the fence about the shirt as the denim texture works well with Tweed, just not sure about the pin collar.


I'm not wild about pairing tweeds, but this works better than most. The shirt is fine, but a better collar that would allow it to be properly pinned would look much better.


----------



## Flanderian

The Mad Tweedster! irate:


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ I like the pieces individually, especially the Fair Isle, but there's too much going on in one outfit for me.

⇩ This is a current Brooks Brothers offering: 
[HEADING=2]*Regent Fit Wool Tweed Windowpane Sport Coat*[/HEADING]


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ I like the pieces individually, especially the Fair Isle, but there's too much going on in one outfit for me.
> 
> ⇩ This is a current Brooks Brothers offering:
> [HEADING=2]*Regent Fit Wool Tweed Windowpane Sport Coat*[/HEADING]
> View attachment 68885


The jacket, the shirt and even the pink sweater work well together. However, I would not pair the yellow cords with that rig.....unless you are wearing shades. .


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> The jacket, the shirt and even the pink sweater work well together. However, I would not pair the yellow cords with that rig.....unless you are wearing shades. .


It struck me as an Easter outfit as it feels very Spring to me. Your suggestion of swapping out the yellow cords would help a lot. Brown or grey cords or moleskins might pull the outfit back to the Fall.


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> The Mad Tweedster! irate:
> 
> View attachment 68829


Oh, be still my heart!


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ I like the pieces individually, especially the Fair Isle, but there's too much going on in one outfit for me.
> 
> ⇩ This is a current Brooks Brothers offering:
> [HEADING=2]*Regent Fit Wool Tweed Windowpane Sport Coat*[/HEADING]
> View attachment 68885


The sweater and trousers are a bit much for me but an order for the jacket and another for Peter Christian loden moleskin trousers just went out. Thanks for the suggestion, FF!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ I like the pieces individually, especially the Fair Isle, but there's too much going on in one outfit for me.
> 
> ⇩ This is a current Brooks Brothers offering:
> [HEADING=2]*Regent Fit Wool Tweed Windowpane Sport Coat*[/HEADING]
> View attachment 68885


Nice shoulders! :loveyou:

Gorge a bit high, jacket a bit short.

Agree that sweater and cords are a bridge too far. One or the other, and a bit more muted yellow would be very nice.



Oldsarge said:


> Oh, be still my heart!


Agree with the observations made there's a bit too much going on. Lovely bits though, a bit of editing would sharpen the focus, IMHO.


----------



## Flanderian

Hipster tweed -


----------



## Fading Fast

Oldsarge said:


> The sweater and trousers are a bit much for me but an order for the jacket and another for Peter Christian loden moleskin trousers just went out. Thanks for the suggestion, FF!


You're very welcome. I'm excited for you. It will be neat to see it "in person" and to get your review.


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Hipster tweed -
> 
> View attachment 68931
> 
> 
> View attachment 68933


The suit is just fine but he really needs help wearing that fedora!


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## StephenRG

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 68941


What a beautiful pattern!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 68941


Don't think I've ever seen a tweed with exactly this pattern and colors - wonderful! :loveyou:



StephenRG said:


> What a beautiful pattern!


+1!


----------



## Peak and Pine

Tweedy painting by pre raphaelite Arthur Hacker. Note the low and more convenient breast pocket, fully buttoned vest and top jacket button latched, but no other because if you have an outfit as good as this and worn by a guy (Hacker's brother) who looks as good as this, you wear stuff however you want.

Am sending out into the air another Hacker painting, but since it's not tweed (I am no hijacker), it's gauzed out. Click on or touch to see it. The Temptation of Sir Percy. I love this painting.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 69247


Great tweed, but the Flying Nun look on the shirt collar and the tie going hyper-sprez are a bit much.


----------



## Fading Fast

Vecchio Vespa said:


> Great tweed, but the Flying Nun look on the shirt collar and the tie going hyper-sprez are a bit much.


Agreed, the silly thing in the lapel button could go too, but I love that Tweed. I had a similar one in the '90s.


----------



## Oldsarge

The tie pattern is okay but I don't care what 'spezz-ness' calls for, the wide end goes on the outside. Nice jacket, though.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 69247


Wonderful tweed, and good looking ensemble! :icon_cheers:

Except for silliness with the collar and the bangle bracelets. (Only Luca Rubinaci is allowed to wear bangle bracelets! )


----------



## Flanderian

Nice cut, nice fit, nice tweed!


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Nice.









You can feel the heft.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Nice.
> 
> View attachment 69291
> 
> You can feel the heft.


I think Dustin Hoffman lost his jacket!


----------



## Flanderian

Hey, look, you can make that stuff into an overcoat too! 










Edit: A larger view, courtesy of Cleav. A belted coat. I particularly like belted winter coats, first they offer a nice waist on a loosely fitted coat, and secondly, they actually offer greater warmth, the torso area above the belt becoming a capsule of warmth.


----------



## 127.72 MHz

[HEADING=2]Exquisite lapels.[/HEADING]



Flanderian said:


> Nice cut, nice fit, nice tweed!
> 
> View attachment 69273


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Hey, look, you can make that stuff into an overcoat too!
> 
> View attachment 69303
> 
> 
> Edit: A larger view, courtesy of Cleav. A belted coat. I particularly like belted winter coats, first they offer a nice waist on a loosely fitted coat, and secondly, they actually offer greater warmth, the torso area above the belt becoming a capsule of warmth.
> 
> View attachment 69307


⇧ Beautiful coat.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Beautiful coat.
> 
> View attachment 69323


Great tweed, but a few cliches.


----------



## Flanderian

O'Connell's. Harris Tweed. Gorgeous, and expensive. 😢


----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ yes and yes.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Corcovado




----------



## eagle2250

Corcovado said:


> View attachment 69369


Through several decades of Iron Horse ownership, I have worn a number of biker jackets, but never one of Tweed construction. Not sure of it's protective value on the steed, but it certainly has the edge when we consider style!


----------



## Corcovado

eagle2250 said:


> Through several decades of Iron Horse ownership, I have worn a number of biker jackets, but never one of Tweed construction. Not sure of it's protective value on the steed, but it certainly has the edge when we consider style!


I think that model should be called the Oliver Sacks. Unfortunately they aren't currently offering it. I wish I had bought one when I had the chance, to say nothing of the waistline.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Beautiful coat.
> 
> View attachment 69323


If this were on the Trad forum, there would be a resounding "Aye" for those cliches! We live for them.


----------



## 127.72 MHz

A couple of years ago I picked up a Chrysalis Runcorn Reversible Raincoat from O'Connell's.

It is fabulous, but did not realize that it was so heavy. The tweed turns this supposed raincoat into a warm overcoat!

I don't get to wear it as often as I would like.























[HEADING=2][/HEADING]


----------



## Fading Fast

127.72 MHz said:


> A couple of years ago I picked up a Chrysalis Runcorn Reversible Raincoat from O'Connell's.
> 
> It is fabulous, but did not realize that it was so heavyweight. The tweed turns this superposed raincoat into a warm overcoat!
> 
> I don't get to wear it as often as I would like.
> 
> View attachment 69371
> View attachment 69373
> View attachment 69375
> 
> [HEADING=2][/HEADING]


Beautiful and unusual "reversible." Most of the ones I've seen have a herringbone tweed in tan or grey. I've also seen a few glen plaids, but none like yours. Fantastic coat.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## 127.72 MHz

^^ Wow!

Cordings?


----------



## Fading Fast

127.72 MHz said:


> ^^ Wow!
> 
> Cordings?


I don't know as I got it from Pinterest and it didn't have a label.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> O'Connell's. Harris Tweed. Gorgeous, and expensive. 😢
> 
> View attachment 69349


I keep thinking about this one - really like it. If I didn't have a few similar ones that go all but unused in my quiet life, I could see picking it up, but I don't need more clothes to sit unworn in my closet.


----------



## Oldsarge

Fading Fast said:


> I keep thinking about this one - really like it. If I didn't have a few similar ones that go all but unused in my quiet life, I could see picking it up, but I don't need more clothes to sit unworn in my closet.


Same here.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 69377


Exceptional! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I keep thinking about this one - really like it. If I didn't have a few similar ones that go all but unused in my quiet life, I could see picking it up, but I don't need more clothes to sit unworn in my closet.





Oldsarge said:


> Same here.


Cost no object, this is the mac daddy of Baracuta style jackets. And they have several others in tweed as well. If you want the authentic traditional cut and style, of the finest quality, made in Harris Tweed. you buy it here.

But it's still a lot of money for a mid weight casual jacket, though if unlike FF, me, and others you don't have this wardrobe niche occupied, this can be a life long centerpiece. But if cost is of no consideration, buy a couple!

irate:


----------



## Oldsarge

My mid-weight casual is a Woolrich cruiser in a model they have discarded. Filson's is too heavy but this one is just right.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Cost no object, this is the mac daddy of Baracuta style jackets. And they have several others in tweed as well. If you want the authentic traditional cut and style, of the finest quality, made in Harris Tweed. you buy it here.
> 
> But it's still a lot of money for a mid weight casual jacket, though if unlike FF, me, and others you don't have this wardrobe niche occupied, this can be a life long centerpiece. But if cost is of no consideration, buy a couple!
> 
> irate:
> 
> View attachment 69393


You posted the grey herringbone just to torture me. Gee, let me post Fading Fast's favorite color and pattern just to mess with him - won't that be fun.

If I bought this thing, for several days after it arrived, I'd periodically open the closet door just to look at it.

I will not buy it, but man do I love that thing.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> You posted the grey herringbone just to torture me. Gee, let me post Fading Fast's favorite color and pattern just to mess with him - won't that be fun.
> 
> If I bought this thing, for several days after it arrived, I'd periodically open the closet door just to look at it.
> 
> I will not buy it, but man do I love that thing.


:happy: :happy: :happy: 

"If I bought this thing, for several days after it arrived, I'd periodically open the closet door just to look at it."

Boy, does that sound like me!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> :happy: :happy: :happy:
> 
> "If I bought this thing, for several days after it arrived, I'd periodically open the closet door just to look at it."
> 
> Boy, does that sound like me!


I bought a shaggy dog sweater several weeks ago and still look at it almost every day.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 69515
> 
> 
> View attachment 69517





Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 69519
> 
> 
> View attachment 69521


👍 👍 👍


----------



## Fading Fast

[HEADING=2]Vintage 50s Harris Tweed Overcoat Mens 38 Pure Scottish Wool Union Made Gray







[/HEADING]


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> [HEADING=2]Vintage 50s Harris Tweed Overcoat Mens 38 Pure Scottish Wool Union Made Gray
> View attachment 69553
> [/HEADING]


Great tweed, and great coat! 👍

70 years old and still goin' strong! Does that tell us something . . . ? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian

Resplendent in the glories of Portobello Road -


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Great tweed, and great coat! 👍
> 
> 70 years old and still goin' strong! Does that tell us something . . . ? :icon_scratch:


Well hell yes...It tells us that that coat wast put together more durably than some of us were! LOL.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> Well hell yes...It tells us that that coat wast put together more durably than some of us were! LOL.


You can say that again!


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Tweedlover

Flanderian said:


> Great tweed, and great coat! 👍
> 
> 70 years old and still goin' strong! Does that tell us something . . . ? :icon_scratch:


1 of the topcoats I wear only when it's very cold outside is a WWII great coat, (not a tweed). So, it would be around 80 years old. Thing must weigh at least 10 pounds.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Resplendent in the glories of Portobello Road -
> 
> View attachment 69665


That is really well done.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> That is really well done.


Gentleman has an eye for color.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 69729


Very nice tweed. But I'm distressed by the fit.


----------



## Flanderian

"To boldly go where no man has gone before!" Cleav The Immaculate -


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Very nice tweed. But I'm distressed by the fit.


Agreed. I liked the combo and thought the denim shirt went well, but yes, the jacket is too tight.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Agreed. I liked the combo and thought the denim shirt went well, but yes, the jacket is too tight.


Sorry to be picky, but I literally cringe each time I see someone muck up a great ensemble via a slavish adherence to fashion. 😢


----------



## challer

Oldsarge said:


> My mid-weight casual is a Woolrich cruiser in a model they have discarded. Filson's is too heavy but this one is just right.


I really like my Filson cruiser. Despite having far too much outerwear, a majority casual, its carries the day. That said, I really like this thing from O'Connell's. Now, if I could find it pig suede, I wouldn't hesitate


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 69789


I love the fabric pattern of that jacket, but think the plaid design to be too dense to wear that jacket with a matching vest of the same fabric. It would look so much better with a plain hued vest or even no vest at all...take away some of the visual business of the rig!


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

eagle2250 said:


> I love the fabric pattern of that jacket, but think the plaid design to be too dense to wear that jacket with a matching vest of the same fabric. It would look so much better with a plain hued vest or even no vest at all...take away some of the visual business of the rig!


That was my thought as well. I envisioned a blue moleskin.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 69789


👍

Mighty tweed!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Vecchio Vespa said:


> That was my thought as well. I envisioned a blue moleskin.


Or camel.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 69873


Very nice, but not something I could wear. Would look cadaverous in this.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 69965


Great Donegal!


----------



## Flanderian

PB&J (Nice tweeds and corduroy.) geezer tweed!


----------



## Fading Fast

To kick off the Christmas movie-watching season, we watched "Miracle on 34th Street" yesterday (comments here:  #832 ). In it, actor John Payne wears a big, beautiful herringbone Tweed overcoat, but surprisingly, this was the best pic of it I could find.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> To kick off the Christmas movie-watching season, we watched "Miracle on 34th Street" yesterday (comments here:  #832 ). In it, actor John Payne wears a big, beautiful herringbone Tweed overcoat, but surprisingly, this was the best pic of it I could find.
> View attachment 70019


Thanks! Great film, a favorite, and a great coat! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Rogues gallery!


----------



## Flanderian

Great tweed, great cut, great style. I'd change tie & PS, and possibly shirt, But a boffo suit! :happy:


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> To kick off the Christmas movie-watching season, we watched "Miracle on 34th Street" yesterday (comments here:  #832 ). In it, actor John Payne wears a big, beautiful herringbone Tweed overcoat, but surprisingly, this was the best pic of it I could find.
> View attachment 70019


Have seen this one many times. It is indeed a great seasonal movie!


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Nice material and a beautiful raglan shoulder.

⇩ I like the patch pocket


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Nice material and a beautiful raglan shoulder.
> 
> ⇩ I like the patch pocket
> View attachment 70117


Beautiful tweed, interesting ensemble! 👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 70185
> 
> 
> View attachment 70187
> 
> 
> View attachment 70189


Top is very nice, but needs a contrast PS.


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Top is very nice, but needs a contrast PS.


I'd have gone with a medium red.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Top is very nice, but needs a contrast PS.


Or none at all.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Or none at all.


 



Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 70289


Nifty! 👍


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 70421


👍 Tweed Run?


----------



## Flanderian

More hipster tweed -


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> 👍 Tweed Run?


I believe so.

I like the blue tone-on-tone glen plaid you just posted.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> I believe so.
> 
> I like the blue tone-on-tone glen plaid you just posted.


I think it's nice too. Fox Brothers calls a similar colorway midnight. I had always wanted a business suit made of cloth of this color in worsted with a pattern on a slightly smaller scale, but it never quite happened.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Guess who.
Around 1915 maybe, he'd be 21, the year the Lusitania went down, but I think he's standing on the deck of the good ship Lollpop. Hand colored so it may not be brown. Amazing sort of, how close this is to contemorary style. Great outfit, everything gels, and the hat, bigly, most nowadays are way too tiny.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## challer

Can they make it any smaller? Must be some tweed shortage.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 70509


Not sure whether I am most impressed by the Tweed overcoat or the woodwork on the the door and wall behind the coat, but to my mind, they are both pretty darned special.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 70509


Nice tweed. Looks like Press.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 70599


*YOWZER!!! :happy:*


----------



## Fading Fast

Not sure it's a Tweed, but seems to fit out thread.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oops. Thought this was the Cony Island thread. Sorry. (Boy, Cony sure has changed.) Forgiveness is begged with the following super tweedy offering...










Nice, ay? I'd link you to where this is sold, but it's full of people who look like this...










...and if you wanna see people who look like that, watch your local 11 o'clock news.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 70749
> 
> Not sure it's a Tweed, but seems to fit out thread.


Nice combo! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Tweed in the wild! Cleav The Immaculate -


----------



## never behind

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 70761
> 
> 
> Oops. Thought this was the Cony Island thread. Sorry. (Boy, Cony sure has changed.) Forgiveness is begged with the following super tweedy offering...
> 
> View attachment 70763
> 
> 
> Nice, ay? I'd link you to where this is sold, but it's full of people who look like this...
> 
> View attachment 70765
> 
> 
> ...and if you wanna see people who look like that, watch your local 11 o'clock news.


This post started off great but the more I scrolled, the less I enjoyed it.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

^^^
Here's the full version of the above, both have appeared in this thread a number of times and nobody can figure out what his right hand is clutching.










*-------------------*​
Titled, How Do You Know When Your Stuff's Not Grabbing the Audience...










...when everyone's looking the other way. I'd be looking at this though, swell coat.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 70935


*OUTSTANDING!!!








*


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> *OUTSTANDING!!!
> 
> View attachment 70977
> *


You can feel its weight. Many years ago, I had a BB sport coat in a very similar material. It's surprisingly versatile. I'm sure I gave it to Goodwill (or similar charity) as that's where almost all my former clothes go, but I have no memory of it. But having moved multiple times - and that often being when I would "cull -" there is usually a lot going on in my life when I'm also giving clothes away.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> You can feel its weight. Many years ago, I had a BB sport coat in a very similar material. It's surprisingly versatile. I'm sure I gave it to Goodwill (or similar charity) as that's where almost all my former clothes go, but I have no memory of it. But having moved multiple times - and that often being when I would "cull -" there is usually a lot going on in my life when I'm also giving clothes away.


Handsome of itself, and successful complexity of pattern and color harmonies.


----------



## Flanderian

Check tweed -


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> *OUTSTANDING!!!
> 
> View attachment 70977
> *


The late, great Gunny Ermy advising...."don't you dare presume to sweat in my beloved Tween, you sartotial maggots!" LOL.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

Below, an acquired taste maybe, which I do not have but after looking at it for a long time and imagining it on a couple people I know, plus Edgar Allen Poe and maybe myself, I'm working on it. You do not have to agree.










And this below. Amazon is selling this for $36, in many colors, all h'bone. I particularly like the second one.


----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> Below, an acquired taste maybe, which I do not have but after looking at it for a long time and imagining it on a couple people I know, plus Edgar Allen Poe and maybe myself, I'm working on it. You do not have to agree.
> 
> And this below. Amazon is selling this for $36, in many colors, all h'bone. I particularly like the second one.
> 
> View attachment 71047


I want this one now!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 71039


Nice! *Really* nice! 👍 👍 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Low key tweed via Cleave The Immaculate -


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 71137


Very nice! You inspire me!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

⇧ Boldly secure in its Tweediness.









Note the flap chest pocket on the front center one.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## peterc

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 71039


Is this the jacket and suit from Drakes, this season? If so, I am proud to say I bought it. I think I need to travel to the Arctic to wear it, however! Or, maybe during my next trip to NYC.


----------



## Fading Fast

peterc said:


> Is this the jacket and suit from Drakes, this season? If so, I am proud to say I bought it. I think I need to travel to the Arctic to wear it, however! Or, maybe during my next trip to NYC.


Unfortunately, I only know what you see in the pic, but kudos to you if it is and, even if it isn't, a suit like that from Drake's is a wonderful garment - enjoy.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ Boldly secure in its Tweediness.
> 
> View attachment 71179
> 
> Note the flap chest pocket on the front center one.


A tweedster's fantasy! :happy:


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 71223


Great weed jacket, but why is it shrink wrapped? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Flanderian

Nice tweed overcoat -


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Nice tweed overcoat -
> 
> View attachment 71309


That looks well made, doesn't it?


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 71339


Truth be known, it is just a tad beyond my style limits, but our high school senior Grandson would love that He wears more orange than I could have ever imagined doing. The gals must like it because he keeps doing it.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> Truth be known, it is just a tad beyond my style limits, but our high school senior Grandson would love that He wears more orange than I could have ever imagined doing. The gals must like it because he keeps doing it.


Well, he's in good company with another lady's man as Frank Sinatra loved orange-colored clothing.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 71317


Very handsome! 👍



Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 71339


Very orange!  👍


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

Have not seen a pocket square in a vest before. I like this vest. I like a top button undone. Anti Edwardian.










Below, from Spier and MacKay. The white at the neck is the mannequin, but it looks like a crew neck tee, which I would not have thought looked good with a shirt and jacket. This pic changes my mind. The jacket is $585. Ouch.










Below, mine. Almost ready to be worn out before real people. I don't recognize the rough weave so I call it burlap. A third/top button has been added since this photograph, plus some fancy work on the rear. More on this later.










Or now. This is being prepared for the back. It will take a while.










So what is that? Final Jeopardy, you have to write your answers.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 71435


Look as if it might have been Basil Rathbone's coat! 👍


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Look as if it might have been Basil Rathbone's coat! 👍


Except Rathbone lived in an all B&W world.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Except Rathbone lived in an all B&W world.


😆 😆 😆


----------



## Flanderian

Deutsch tweed -


----------



## StephenRG

Fading Fast said:


> Except Rathbone lived in an all B&W world.


Not entirely


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Not entirely
> 
> View attachment 71471


👍 👍 👍


----------



## Fading Fast

Apologies if this is a dupe - it feels familiar, but am not sure.


----------



## drpeter

Peak and Pine said:


> Have not seen a pocket square in a vest before. I like this vest. I like a top button undone. Anti Edwardian.
> 
> View attachment 71419
> 
> 
> Below, from Spier and MacKay. The white at the neck is the mannequin, but it looks like a crew neck tee, which I would not have thought looked good with a shirt and jacket. This pic changes my mind. The jacket is $585. Ouch.
> 
> View attachment 71427
> 
> 
> Below, mine. Almost ready to be worn out before real people. I don't recognize the rough weave so I call it burlap. A third/top button has been added since this photograph, plus some fancy work on the rear. More on this later.
> 
> View attachment 71421
> 
> 
> Or now. This is being prepared for the back. It will take a while.
> 
> View attachment 71441
> 
> 
> So what is that? Final Jeopardy, you have to write your answers.


A half-belt in the back for a Norfolk style conversion?


----------



## Peak and Pine

drpeter said:


> A half-belt in the back for a Norfolk style conversion?


WINNER! Though not quite a half Norky, a quarter one, by my definition.

Close-in on the cloth, a fairly uncommon weave...










Taking a second look, below, at the belt workings, you'll notice a strip of non-matching tweed on the interior plus a bit of white peeking out at the end. The white is wallboard joint tape, used as a stiffener as well as a straight edge around which to baste the cloth. The interior tweed, unseen when complete, is to give the belt heft. Most newer Norkies build the belt as they do the pocket flaps, thin, without dimension. This one is being built like the lapel, thick, with dimension. I am working on this now and will post a finished pic in the wee hours. Or not.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 71555
> 
> Apologies if this is a dupe - it feels familiar, but am not sure.


Exceptional in every regard! :happy:


----------



## drpeter

Peak and Pine said:


> WINNER!


So now I should receive the PeaksNobel Prize for Borderline Sleuthing, and the medallion, plus the award money ($19.99, completely tax exempt). Oh boy!


----------



## Flanderian

The late, great Andover Shop -


----------



## Peak and Pine

^^^
..from their Color Blind Collection.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

Both of the above are Harris tweed and currently for sale on EBay. They come from Britain so the shipping is high. Including shipping, each is 89 USD. I am tempted, for the vibrant greens, a color not offen offered in tweed.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Flanderian said:


> The late, great Andover Shop -
> 
> View attachment 71581


Late?


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 71629
> View attachment 71631


Both marvelous tweeds! 👍

I am personally not usually fond of brown ties, particularly with grey, but that's just me, nothing wrong with them. Tweeds are boffo though!


----------



## Flanderian

Vecchio Vespa said:


> Late?


I stand corrected! 

My last information was that the shop was closing with Charlie Davidson's passing, but obviously, I'm mistaken as it still has both an on-line -

https://www.theandovershop.com/
and physical presence!

Still the same stuff? I'll allow long time patrons to weigh in.


----------



## Flanderian

Serious tweed, good and itchy! -


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> Serious tweed, good and itchy! -
> 
> View attachment 71647


Bold Tweed, plus it would probably stop a small-caliber bullet. Very 1930s.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Flanderian said:


> I stand corrected!
> 
> My last information was that the shop was closing with Charlie Davidson's passing, but obviously, I'm mistaken as it still has both an on-line -
> 
> https://www.theandovershop.com/
> and physical presence!
> 
> Still the same stuff? I'll allow long time patrons to weigh in.


I still shop there and love 'em. In fact I am wearing Khyber cloth shorts from there, purchased this past summer, right now!


----------



## Flanderian

Vecchio Vespa said:


> I still shop there and love 'em. In fact I am wearing Khyber cloth shorts from there, purchased this past summer, right now!


I froze my backside off today! The thought of doing it in shorts just made me even colder. :cold: How come we didn't have your weather when the USAF treated me to two month vacation in San Antonio in '67? Had a 1/2" of snow one morning, and ice crunching underfoot for our morning march to the chow hall on others. :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 71707
> View attachment 71709


A head snappingly handsome coat, for sure! We are talking about a move a bit further north in the next year or two as the kind (read as Grand kids) head off to college in distant States. Perhaps I could justify such a purchase. :icon_scratch:


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> A head snappingly handsome coat, for sure! We are talking about a move a bit further north in the next year or two as the kind (read as Grand kids) head off to college in distant States. Perhaps I could justify such a purchase. :icon_scratch:


How far north?


----------



## Oldsarge

eagle2250 said:


> A head snappingly handsome coat, for sure! We are talking about a move a bit further north in the next year or two as the kind (read as Grand kids) head off to college in distant States. Perhaps I could justify such a purchase. :icon_scratch:


North and a tad West? It gets nippy in Portland . . .


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 71707
> View attachment 71709


That is one h*** of a nice coat! :loveyou:

Gorgeous tweed, and I love raglan sleeved, belted coats, both SB & DB, but SB most. Practical, relaxed elegance. Warm as toast, and bullet proof.


----------



## 215339

The first raglan is from Thomas Farthing I think. Here is another shot from them


----------



## Flanderian

delicious_scent said:


> The first raglan is from Thomas Farthing I think. Here is another shot from them


Very nice also! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Fine men's retailer Chipp was sometimes described as J. Press with sense of whimsy. One example was their summer staple patchwork madder jacket. Perhaps less well known is that they used to do a tweed version of the same concept for colder months. The handsome jacket on the cover of their 1977 catalog isn't one of those, but rather one in which a tweed is woven to provide a similar effect. In addition to noting this tweed, also enjoy the superb cut and quality that characterized their tailored items.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> How far north?


We are looking at a couple of spots in Tennessee, but it's a little early to tell where the search will end.


----------



## Fading Fast

eagle2250 said:


> We are looking at a couple of spots in Tennessee, but it's a little early to tell where the search will end.


Most importantly, I hope you find where and what you want. And if it has a few months of cold weather a year, that's an added bonus.


----------



## 127.72 MHz

eagle2250 said:


> We are looking at a couple of spots in Tennessee, but it's a little early to tell where the search will end.


My Navy "A" school was just outside of Memphis, (Millington Tennessee), and while it wasn't sub-zero it was plenty nippy in January,....


----------



## Peak and Pine

Doubt they sold many of those. Fugly. But it was '77. A+ for cloth design balance, at both front quarters and the lapels. F for abandoning that balance when it came to the collar.


----------



## never behind

eagle2250 said:


> We are looking at a couple of spots in Tennessee, but it's a little early to tell where the search will end.


Native Tennessean here - it will be nippy enough in January/February to justify a nice coat (or two) purchase!


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 71779
> 
> Doubt they sold many of those. Fugly. But it was '77. A+ for cloth design balance, at both front quarters and the lapels. F for abandoning that balance when it came to the collar.


I would have loved one.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> We are looking at a couple of spots in Tennessee, but it's a little early to tell where the search will end.


Come on up, the weather's fine! 










Had missed your initial post. Perhaps your grandkids will elect to attend school locally, ours did!


----------



## Peak and Pine

Vecchio Vespa said:


> I would have loved one.


I'm all out of those at the moment, but perhaps I can talk you into one of these, for the discerning gentleman who likes his glen plaid on the bigly side...


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Peak and Pine

...from Taylor Stitch. $128.


----------



## challer

Vecchio Vespa said:


> I would have loved one.


I would wear it today, no problem


----------



## Peak and Pine

challer said:


> I would wear it today, no problem


...but then I couldn't take you home to meet the folks.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 71791


What beautiful pairings! :loveyou:Lovely colors and patterns.


----------



## Flanderian

Your pleasure, Sir?


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> What beautiful pairings! :loveyou:Lovely colors and patterns.


Agreed, I really like this one.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 71899


Magnificent coat, well chosen ensemble! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Tweed and stuff you can wear with it -


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 71947


Pictured above is a nice tweed, but the wearer could have done better in picking an overcoat to pair with it. Also, I wish they wouldn't presume to pin the collar on an OCBD. It just looks wrong! Otherwise, I do like the tweed.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> Pictured above is a nice tweed, but the wearer could have done better in picking an overcoat to pair with it. Also, I wish they wouldn't presume to pin the collar on an OCBD. It just looks wrong! Otherwise, I do like the tweed.


+1! Beautiful tweed, but the art director's overwrought collar pin/BD gets the red mackerel. 

:fish:


----------



## Flanderian

More tweed and stuff you can wear with it.


----------



## Oviatt

Flanderian said:


> More tweed and stuff you can wear with it.
> 
> View attachment 71975


I love this. I want it all.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 72087


Ah, another fine tan herringbone! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

I find this a very handsome ensemble with several notable characteristics. One of which is the art employed which results in a dramatic rig assembled from largely plain and simple elements. Often overlooked among tweeds, is the plain tweed, here presented in a rich Siena brown, a generally flattering and less common shade. Paired with a black turtleneck which here performs the role of a dramatic counterpoint to the richness of the brown, and elevates the whole when a fancy complimentary PS is added.


----------



## Oldsarge

Oviatt said:


> I love this. I want it all.


It's missing the waders and fly rod.


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## drpeter

Flanderian said:


> I find this a very handsome ensemble with several notable characteristics. One of which is the art employed which results in a dramatic rig assembled from largely plain and simple elements. Often overlooked among tweeds, is the plain tweed, here presented in a rich Siena brown, a generally flattering and less common shade. Paired with a black turtleneck which here performs the role of a dramatic counterpoint to the richness of the brown, and elevates the whole when a fancy complimentary PS is added.
> 
> View attachment 72121


I love this colour and have several jackets in similar colours, although not exactly the same. And I agree entirely, the plain tweed, whose pattern may at most be a faint twill weave, does look superb, and is a pleasant change from the many herringbones, tic-weaves and houndstooths that dot the autumn landscape. The richness of the material also helps to combine it with other colours. The pocket square in this ensemble is the magic touch, it pulls together the whole affair -- black shirt, cream trousers and brown jacket -- in a very elegant way. Full marks for this find, Flanders.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## 215339

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 72263


Permanent Style Plaid.

Here it is made into a jacket


----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 72263





delicious_scent said:


> Permanent Style Plaid.
> 
> Here it is made into a jacket


*YOWZER! *:happy:

Horse blanket plaids; love 'em or hate 'em!

I loves 'em! :loveyou:


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 72357


But I love hounds tooth even more! 👍 👍 👍


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> But I love hounds tooth even more! 👍 👍 👍


I think our friend @Oldsarge is going to like this one too.


----------



## eagle2250

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 72357


The above is a very handsome Hounds Tooth check design/jacket...paired with the perfect shirt and the perfect tie!


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 72229


And BTW, love this coat! :loveyou:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian

I know this isn't the flannel thread, but, WOW, needed to post a photo of this cloth from Fox Brothers. Limited run of Fox flannel grey herringbone with a Bordeaux deco stripe, almost maroon, in 16oz flannel. What a fabulous 3-piece suit this stuff would make! In my day, would have loved one!


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> And BTW, love this coat! :loveyou:


Agreed, plus the thick throat latched hanging down is a nice touch.


----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> I know this isn't the flannel thread, but, WOW, needed to post a photo of this cloth from Fox Brothers. Limited run of Fox flannel grey herringbone with a Bordeaux deco stripe, almost maroon, in 16oz flannel. What a fabulous 3-piece suit this stuff would make! In my day, would have loved one!
> 
> View attachment 72371


That would be a fantastic suit. Very 1930s Apparel Arts.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> That would be a fantastic suit. Very 1930s Apparel Arts.


ApArts & Esky 1936, also in _Men in Style_ -


----------



## 127.72 MHz




----------



## Fading Fast




----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> ApArts & Esky 1936, also in _Men in Style_ -
> 
> View attachment 72373


What a great illustration.......and now we know air travelers back in the day enjoyed fighter escorts, at once providing a visual distraction to while away the hours on the flight and also holding the bad guys at bay! LOL.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> View attachment 72421


Exceptional in toto.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> What a great illustration.......and now we know air travelers back in the day enjoyed fighter escorts, at once providing a visual distraction to while away the hours on the flight and also holding the bad guys at bay! LOL.


Whimsy at a time when air travel was still a glamorous novelty. When most people wouldn't consider air travel anymore than getting on a rocket ship. And how about those seats!? Just like contemporary air travel, right? 😆


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Fading Fast

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 72433


Looks like Leslie Howard. What an awesome coat.


----------



## Flanderian

Fading Fast said:


> Looks like Leslie Howard. What an awesome coat.


"Tis! And, yes, and hat and tie as well, I think.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 72485


Nice! Lovely tweed.


----------



## Flanderian

Tweed and stuff -


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Tweed and stuff -
> 
> View attachment 72525


The pocket square is a bit filmy to go with a tweed jacket, IMO.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> The pocket square is a bit filmy to go with a tweed jacket, IMO.


And too matchy-matchy as well! *86 it. And replace it with something less so. Plain navy would be fine, or darker pattern with navy ground and complimentary colors.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Bene, molto bene! (Italian tweed, you see.)

But can't abide the brown tie, I'll have mine with royal purple instead.


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Bene, molto bene! (Italian tweed, you see.)
> 
> But can't abide the brown tie, I'll have mine with royal purple instead.
> 
> View attachment 72661


Or dark blue.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian

Norfolk -


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> Norfolk -
> 
> View attachment 72821


"Make me a jacket to fit over my bullet-proof vest"
"Sir, I think you'll find that the jacket is already bullet-proof"


----------



## Flanderian

Norfolk -

View attachment 72821



StephenRG said:


> "Make me a jacket to fit over my bullet-proof vest"
> "Sir, I think you'll find that the jacket is already bullet-proof"


😄 😄 😄

Edit:

Q: How do stop a charging Rhino?

A: Take away its credit card!


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> Norfolk -
> 
> View attachment 72821


Very handsome. Depending on cooperative outdoor air temperatures, I could wear such a civilian uniform jacket on a pretty regular basis.


----------



## Oldsarge

bomb proof


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Peak and Pine

.









__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content


----------



## challer

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 72997
> .
> View attachment 72999
> 
> View attachment 73001
> 
> View attachment 73003


Perfection


----------



## Peak and Pine

challer said:


> Perfection


I would be ageeeing with you, which explains the extra e. Both jacket and presentation, E+.


----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 72947
> 
> 
> bomb proof


That overcoat is nothing short of magnificent!


----------



## Oldsarge

View attachment 72949



Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 72997
> .
> View attachment 72999
> 
> View attachment 73001
> 
> View attachment 73003


Now that's downright exciting! What a great coat.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## challer

Peak and Pine said:


> I would be ageeeing with you, which explains the extra e. Both jacket and presentation, E+.


Do you mind me asking the source? It looks like it might have a thing layer of quilted lining which I have not seen before and would like to know more about.


----------



## Peak and Pine

challer said:


> Do you mind me asking the source? It looks like it might have a thing layer of quilted lining which I have not seen before and would like to know more about.


The jacket is/was being sold by The English Shop in, of all places, Meckennheim, Germany. They sell vintage goods picked off fallen members of the BEF during WWI. I kid. They sell exclusively new British stuff, have a single shop plus an on-line presense.

https://www.the-british-shop.de/?em_src=cp&em_cmp=online/shoplink-blaetterkatalog


----------



## challer

Peak and Pine said:


> The jacket is/was being sold by The English Shop in, of all places, Meckennheim, Germany. They sell vintage goods picked off fallen members of the BEF during WWI. I kid. They sell exclusively new British stuff, have a single shop plus an on-line presense.
> 
> https://www.the-british-shop.de/?em_src=cp&em_cmp=online/shoplink-blaetterkatalog


Very interesting, thank you.


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> The jacket is/was being sold by The English Shop in, of all places, Meckennheim, Germany. They sell vintage goods picked off fallen members of the BEF during WWI. I kid. They sell exclusively new British stuff, have a single shop plus an on-line presense.
> 
> https://www.the-british-shop.de/?em_src=cp&em_cmp=online/shoplink-blaetterkatalog


I refuse to look and see what the price is because I frighten easily.


----------



## never behind

Oldsarge said:


> I refuse to look and see what the price is because I frighten easily.


I checked. €329 and I believe that includes VAT. 🙂


----------



## Oldsarge

But the shipping, the shipping! :crazy:


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## drpeter

Peak and Pine said:


> They sell vintage goods picked off fallen members of the BEF during WWI.


Absolutely brilliant, Peaks!


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 73137


Upscale Christmas stockings, eh?


----------



## challer

Peak and Pine said:


> The jacket is/was being sold by The English Shop in, of all places, Meckennheim, Germany. They sell vintage goods picked off fallen members of the BEF during WWI. I kid. They sell exclusively new British stuff, have a single shop plus an on-line presense.
> 
> https://www.the-british-shop.de/?em_src=cp&em_cmp=online/shoplink-blaetterkatalog


Alas they do not ship to the US. Farlows has something very similar


----------



## Flanderian

Love swatches!

Some tasty tweeds here. The pheasant's eye pattern, second row center, is a rarer classic, but I wouldn't be able to pass up the tickweave tweed, top row center, in rich but versatile colors. The pattern is distinctive, but also very versatile, pairing well with many patterns as well as solids.


----------



## Peak and Pine

challer said:


> Alas they do not ship to the US. Farlows has something very similar
> 
> View attachment 73203


A good looking jacket with interesting details, the frontal yoke and bag pockets. The vertical pockets look a little high to be true hand warmers, cell phone and snack stash would work though.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Flanderian

The back of a gentleman featured in another photo, this one shows more of what he's wearing. Don't really care for watch caps with sport jackets, or neck tattoos under any circumstances, but I'm a geezer.

The rest of it I like very well. The chunk turtleneck and heavier tweed present a choice for those occasions in colder weather when we're running errands by auto and are in and out of them. Warm enough for a walk to the car in many conditions, and the jacket can be removed indoors if too warm. Both pair well with khakis for the more casual aspect of sports jacket wear.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Click...
*MERRY CHRISTMAS*


































Purple Label.

$2,499 from your Christmas cash stash will swath you similarly, in regal Purple'ly splendor (iffen you like the browns).


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> The back of a gentleman featured in another photo, this one shows more of what he's wearing. Don't really care for watch caps with sport jackets, or neck tattoos under any circumstances, but I'm a geezer.
> 
> The rest of it I like very well. The chunk turtleneck and heavier tweed present a choice for those occasions in colder weather when we're running errands by auto and are in and out of them. Warm enough for a walk to the car in many conditions, and the jacket can be removed indoors if too warm. Both pair well with khakis for the more casual aspect of sports jacket wear.
> 
> View attachment 73261


I do like the dual vents on that jacket and, seen from the front or back, it wears very nicely with that ivory hued Turtle neck, Watch caps must be getting really popular with the young folks, worn under any circumstances. Our grand sons both asked for specific watch caps on their Christmas wish list. Now tell me, who in their right mind wears a wool watch cap in central Florida? LOL.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Interesting.









Less so with added folderol.










Nix almighty! Now that face is shown. Nothing wrong with face, wrong with clothes. Too tiny for a fuller face. Especially the shoulder. Let's see you try to button that jacket, fella.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> I do like the dual vents on that jacket and, seen from the front or back, it wears very nicely with that ivory hued Turtle neck, Watch caps must be getting really popular with the young folks, worn under any circumstances. Our grand sons both asked for specific watch caps on their Christmas wish list. Now tell me, who in their right mind wears a wool watch cap in central Florida? LOL.


Perhaps they're hoping to track you down in the frozen tundra of Tennessee.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 73443


WHOA!! :happy: 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Tweed shirt/quasi bush jacket and stuff to wear with it. A look I like. Throw on an ascot or neckerchief to close the neck if you want to dress it up more.


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Tweed shirt/quasi bush jacket and stuff to wear with it. A look I like. Throw on an ascot or neckerchief to close the neck if you want to dress it up more.
> 
> View attachment 73673


And a good handlebar or walrus mustache. Maybe even a briar pipe.


----------



## challer

Flanderian said:


> Tweed shirt/quasi bush jacket and stuff to wear with it. A look I like. Throw on an ascot or neckerchief to close the neck if you want to dress it up more.
> 
> View attachment 73673


Lovely


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

Mine.
Arrived today, needing shoulder work, shortening and side nips, all as expecteded. Opened in front of postlady, had her take this pic...










English, DAKS. Action back and bag pockets. Nuff extra cloth to make cinch.

_ When fixed up and properly worn, would not have dark shirt, visible tee and cardigan. Sheesh. But might be holding a sniffter of a dark, undisclosed liquid. _


----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 73845
> 
> View attachment 73841
> 
> View attachment 73843
> 
> 
> Mine.
> Arrived today, needing shoulder work, shortening and side nips, all as expecteded. Opened in front of postlady, had her take this pic...
> 
> View attachment 73847
> 
> 
> English, DAKS. Action back and bag pockets. Nuff extra cloth to make cinch belt.


That's a good picture...it looks almost like a painting. Great job of layering.


----------



## Flanderian

Tweed like it used to be -


----------



## Flanderian

Please honk if dupe. Abraham Moon Yorkshire tweed -


----------



## Oldsarge

Oh, that makes me want to dress up but since the only place I'm going is the hardware store, it would a bit overkill. Damn this pandemic!


----------



## some_dude

Oldsarge said:


> Oh, that makes me want to dress up but since the only place I'm going is the hardware store, it would a bit overkill. Damn this pandemic!


I wear my tweed to the hardware store. Seems entirely appropriate, to me at least.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Donde estan los Faders?


----------



## EclecticSr.

Vecchio Vespa said:


> Donde estan los Faders?


I haven't posted in awhile, but I peek on occasion, wondering the same, Fader,( Fdaing ) a mainstay on the tweed thread. Hope all is well.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

EclecticSr. said:


> I haven't posted in awhile, but I peek on occasion, wondering the same, Fader,( Fdaing ) a mainstay on the tweed thread. Hope all is well.


I hope so, too. @Fading Fast always made the posts, especially on the Tweed thread but also on the More from Ralph, Illustrations, and Movies threads, that got me to scope out Ask Andy. Although there are many other splendid folk here, my interest is ebbing in his absence.


----------



## Flanderian

Vecchio Vespa said:


> Donde estan los Faders?





EclecticSr. said:


> I haven't posted in awhile, but I peek on occasion, wondering the same, Fader,( Fdaing ) a mainstay on the tweed thread. Hope all is well.





Vecchio Vespa said:


> I hope so, too. @Fading Fast always made the posts, especially on the Tweed thread but also on the More from Ralph, Illustrations, and Movies threads, that got me to scope out Ask Andy. Although there are many other splendid folk here, my interest is ebbing in his absence.


He contacted me and has been locked out for a few weeks. He can't log in. I contacted Andy and what's left of Tech support, who tried to help and contacted the new owners. And while the aforementioned gents tried their best, evidently it's been like pushing a string, with no communication coming back the other way.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> He contacted me and has been locked out for a few weeks. He can't log in. I contacted Andy and what's left of Tech support, who tried to help and contacted the new owners. And while the aforementioned gents tried their best, evidently it's been like pushing a string, with no communication coming back the other way.


If the new owners cannot work the root cause of the problem with regard to Fading Fasts being unable to sign in and resolve it, would they allow him to establish a new account.? It would seem that if the original account is no longer functional and it was not blocked/terminated by the new owners, establishing a new account would not violate any user rules for participation. I think we all rather miss Fading Fast's participation. :icon_scratch:


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

eagle2250 said:


> If the new owners cannot work the root cause of the problem with regard to Fading Fasts being unable to sign in and resolve it, would they allow him to establish a new account.? It would seem that if the original account is no longer functional and it was not blocked/terminated by the new owners, establishing a new account would not violate any user rules for participation. I think we all rather miss Fading Fast's participation. :icon_scratch:


We do, sir. Peak and Flanderian have filled in admirably, as have others, but the void is quite noticeable. If the owners do not address it post haste, I foresee problems rippling from the event.


----------



## Peak and Pine

...Harris Tweed from Tweedsman, second hand. £88.95, shipping included.


----------



## drpeter

Vecchio Vespa said:


> We do, sir. Peak and Flanderian have filled in admirably, as have others, but the void is quite noticeable. If the owners do not address it post haste, I foresee problems rippling from the event.


This is most disturbing. Faders was a great contributor to these forums.

There have been others who have been locked out of their accounts. I have seen at least two mentions of this issue in previous weeks. Not all of them may have been able to inform people here, unless they have private email addresses of members known to one another. I don't think this problem has happened just for one or two people. I have two thoughts:

First, as a backup plan, perhaps some of us should establish a separate connection with one another by sending PMs to each other and exchanging email addresses. In case one of us gets locked out, that person can email his friends on these forums and let them know that they have been locked out (I am sure this is how Faders was able to contact Flanderian). A related question: If one gets locked out, is there a surefire way to contact the new owners or tech support for this forum, even if one cannot sign in? If not, that is very disturbing too.

Second, the tech support folks should set up a fail-safe system for members to contact them if they find that they cannot log into the forums: A clickable link on the main page which will take a locked-out member to a page where they can report the problem would be ideal. This page should also offer a means to log in again, either by re-entering their information or by clearing whatever problem exists. In this connection, the new owners should send out a message regarding progress about this issue and let us all know what they are doing to resolve it. After all, if more and more of us get locked out, the logical extreme is that AAAC will not be functional!

Third, current members should write to express concern that these lockouts are taking place. I don't want to raise any alarm, but having been hacked myself not too long ago, I also have some concerns about foul play -- have there been attempts to hack this site? Can the new owners put such suspicions to rest? Perhaps Andy or Mike can help in this connection.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Harris Tweed in olive h'bone, from Drakes. Yours for £995 plus shipping. Which would be about 10 times the vintage one from Tweedsman, two posts above.

*







*


----------



## Peak and Pine

a









Was figuring on a more mature head. Prince Valient there should leave this stuff for the over 20s. Drakes.


----------



## drpeter

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 74151
> 
> View attachment 74153
> 
> 
> Harris Tweed in olive h'bone, from Drakes. Yours for £995 plus shipping. Which would be about 10 times the vintage one from Tweedsman, two posts above.
> 
> *
> View attachment 74155
> *


Love the tweed, especially this shade of dark olive. It's versatile and can be dressed up or down with the right shirt and trousers, and a tie, if you wish. I have a Loden sportcoat in an almost identical colour, but the material (loden cloth) does not have quite the same weight or heft as a tweed.


----------



## Flanderian

eagle2250 said:


> If the new owners cannot work the root cause of the problem with regard to Fading Fasts being unable to sign in and resolve it, would they allow him to establish a new account.? It would seem that if the original account is no longer functional and it was not blocked/terminated by the new owners, establishing a new account would not violate any user rules for participation. I think we all rather miss Fading Fast's participation. :icon_scratch:


Do we have a ruling, ref? :icon_scratch:


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Troones

drpeter said:


> This is most disturbing. Faders was a great contributor to these forums.
> 
> There have been others who have been locked out of their accounts. I have seen at least two mentions of this issue in previous weeks. Not all of them may have been able to inform people here, unless they have private email addresses of members known to one another. I don't think this problem has happened just for one or two people. I have two thoughts:
> 
> First, as a backup plan, perhaps some of us should establish a separate connection with one another by sending PMs to each other and exchanging email addresses. In case one of us gets locked out, that person can email his friends on these forums and let them know that they have been locked out (I am sure this is how Faders was able to contact Flanderian). A related question: If one gets locked out, is there a surefire way to contact the new owners or tech support for this forum, even if one cannot sign in? If not, that is very disturbing too.
> 
> Second, the tech support folks should set up a fail-safe system for members to contact them if they find that they cannot log into the forums: A clickable link on the main page which will take a locked-out member to a page where they can report the problem would be ideal. This page should also offer a means to log in again, either by re-entering their information or by clearing whatever problem exists. In this connection, the new owners should send out a message regarding progress about this issue and let us all know what they are doing to resolve it. After all, if more and more of us get locked out, the logical extreme is that AAAC will not be functional!
> 
> Third, current members should write to express concern that these lockouts are taking place. I don't want to raise any alarm, but having been hacked myself not too long ago, I also have some concerns about foul play -- have there been attempts to hack this site? Can the new owners put such suspicions to rest? Perhaps Andy or Mike can help in this connection.


I was locked out for over a month starting in early October. My password suddenly was not recognized and it wouldn't bypass to allow me to select the forgot password option on my iPhone. I didn't forget my password either. In any event, I was able to resolve it recently so hopefully the same for Fading Fast. He was the first one to respond to my very first post/question on this forum. Made me feel very welcome as did a lot of you.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 74271


Looks familiar. You posted that five years ago. (And I still dislike it. Not sure why though. Maybe just on that guy. 80% coat. 20% person.*)*

https://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/community/threads/b-taylor-gets-you-ready-for-winter.238477/


----------



## drpeter

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 74277
> 
> View attachment 74279
> 
> View attachment 74281
> 
> View attachment 74283


Any idea who made this coat, Flanders?


----------



## Flanderian

drpeter said:


> Any idea who made this coat, Flanders?


B&Taylor, Seoul.


----------



## drpeter

Troones said:


> I was locked out for over a month starting in early October. My password suddenly was not recognized and it wouldn't bypass to allow me to select the forgot password option on my iPhone. I didn't forget my password either. In any event, I was able to resolve it recently so hopefully the same for Fading Fast. He was the first one to respond to my very first post/question on this forum. Made me feel very welcome as did a lot of you.


Thanks for sharing you experience with us, @Troones. Could you tell us how you resolved it?


----------



## Peak and Pine

drpeter said:


> Any idea who made this coat, Flanders?


Are you asking Flanders, or me since you quoted my post and pics? The Mendocino pea coat available here...

https://www.floragal.com/products/the-mendocino-peacoat-in-british-army


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 74271


For some reason I am minded of a Gestapo agent. Nice tweed, though.


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 74277
> 
> View attachment 74279
> 
> View attachment 74281
> 
> View attachment 74283


When I was on Active Duty in Frankfurt, we had a base tailor who was a _grumpy_ old codger but who could do amazing things with his treadle Singer. He made coats like that if you could lay hands on a US Army issue blanket that had 'fallen off' inventory. My lieutenant had one but I got DEROSSED (sent home) before I could get one made. I still have the blankets . . .


----------



## Troones

drpeter said:


> Thanks for sharing you experience with us, @Troones. Could you tell us how you resolved it?


I was usually accessing Ask Andy via my phone and one day it just stopped accepting my password. When I tried the forgot password link it would still auto-enter my saved supposedly incorrect password. So I finally gave up for awhile. Then a couple of weeks ago I tried again from my laptop and it did let me change to a new password.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Oldsarge said:


> For some reason I am minded of a Gestapo agent. Nice tweed, though.


The dude in _Raiders of the Lost Ark _who burned the image of the medallion into the palm of his hand at Marion's Himalayan bar?


----------



## drpeter

Peak and Pine said:


> Are you asking Flanders, or me since you quoted my post and pics? The Mendocino pea coat available here...
> 
> https://www.floragal.com/products/the-mendocino-peacoat-in-british-army


Oops, sorry. I mistook your post for his, my apologies -- I should have asked you. But thanks for the link. It really is a lovely coat.


----------



## drpeter

Troones said:


> I was usually accessing Ask Andy via my phone and one day it just stopped accepting my password. When I tried the forgot password link it would still auto-enter my saved supposedly incorrect password. So I finally gave up for awhile. Then a couple of weeks ago I tried again from my laptop and it did let me change to a new password.


Thanks, that may be the way to resolve the issue. I hope Fading Fast manages to do this.


----------



## Oldsarge

Vecchio Vespa said:


> The dude in _Raiders of the Lost Ark _who burned the image of the medallion into the palm of his hand at Marion's Himalayan bar?


Precisely.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## drpeter

I love the mid-grey (or Oxford grey) of the jacket. I recently picked up a soft, 100% camel-hair herringbone jacket that is identical in colour to the one pictured above, and tested it out, believe it or not, with cream slacks! It is a good look, and the grey is _just_ the right level of lightness to work well in a summer ensemble with light-coloured slacks. I am not sure how well it would work with flat white (as opposed to cream or beige) -- something to try out sometime.


----------



## drpeter

Oldsarge said:


> DEROSSED


A new word for me, Sarge. Does it perhaps come from roster, as in de-rostered?

It also reminds me of another word from the Indian Army, likely with British military usage origins, meaning a more permanent parting: _demobbed. _It is a short form of _demobilised. _Those who are demobbed are then called _ex-servicemen_ (and women, I am sure), although we use _veterans_ instead in the US.


----------



## David J. Cooper

drpeter said:


> Oops, sorry. I mistook your post for his, my apologies -- I should have asked you. But thanks for the link. It really is a lovely coat.


A quick trip to trustpilot would be in order before ordering from Floragal.


----------



## Peak and Pine

David J. Cooper said:


> A quick trip to trustpilot would be in order before ordering from Floragal.


Second that. While the photos came from Floragal, and that site was linked only when asked, the photo spread smacks of those done at Taylor Stich, a reputable and favorite site.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

Taylor Stitch, the real deal. The Sheffield jacket...


----------



## drpeter

David J. Cooper said:


> A quick trip to trustpilot would be in order before ordering from Floragal.


Thanks. Do you know if this jacket is made in the UK?


----------



## Peak and Pine

^^^
I don't know. But I tracked the coat down for you and it is a piece originally from Taylor Stitch...










Don't know if they still sell it. They have an attractive web site, give it a visit. Check their About page.










https://www.taylorstitch.com/?gclid...iKynYUAVT1NEY6skqMbTz-pGk8VrvukoaAjA5EALw_wcB


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## challer

The vest over jacket just seems wrong to me - and visually unappealing. Its being different to be different and attract attention


----------



## Peak and Pine

challer said:


> The vest over jacket just seems wrong to me - and visually unappealing. Its being different to be different and attract attention


How would you suggest if be worn, given that the item with the most loft should not be compressed and must always be worn as the outer most layer?

Disclosure, as I write it's 04.8° outside and 41.9° inside and I have on a Harris Tweed, and over that an L. L. Bean puffer jacket, but it's a full jacket, not a vest and sized to wear with bulk underneath.


----------



## challer

I would wear an overcoat


----------



## EclecticSr.

Peak and Pine said:


> How would you suggest if be worn, given that the item with the most loft should not be compressed and must always be worn as the outer most layer?
> 
> Disclosure, as I write it's 04.8° outside and 41.9° inside and I have on a Harris Tweed, and over that an L. L. Bean puffer jacket, but it's a full jacket, not a vest and sized to wear with bulk underneath.


Quote ----How would you suggest if be worn, given that the item with the most loft should not be compressed and must always be worn as the outer most layer?

Not necessarily, down filled long underwear designed to be worn next to skin but better worn over a base layer then layered with outer layer, trousers and shirt etc. Combinations I've worn many times when I planned on being outdoors in sub freezing weather for long periods.

I would like to know how he planned to wear the sweater other than an affectation.


----------



## Peak and Pine

EclecticSr. said:


> Not necessarily, down filled long underwear designed to be worn next to skin but better worn over a base layer then layered with outer layer, trousers and shirt etc. Combinations I've worn many times when I planned on being outdoors in sub freezing weather for long periods.
> 
> I would like to know how he planned to wear the sweater other than an affectation.


Once you buy the clothes, they're yours, common sense has permission to fly and a man can wear his purchased duds any which way he damn well pleases. So feel free to puffer up and pile on top. And I will do the opposite


----------



## EclecticSr.

You can dress as you damn well please, it was not my intent to tell you how to. Merely pointing out the inaccuracy in the statement. Not all "puffer" is designed to always be worn as the outer most layer.


----------



## Flanderian

Vintage Holland and Holland jacket with piping, a gentleman's tweed.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## challer

Peak and Pine said:


> Once you buy the clothes, they're yours, common sense has permission to fly and a man can wear his purchased duds any which way he damn well pleases. So feel free to puffer up and pile on top. And I will do the opposite


Of course you can. And no offense or disrespect is intended. And this is also a forum where people give and receive feedback. At those temps, I'd have my Mcmurdo jacket in use and would get plenty of comments.


----------



## Oldsarge

At those temperatures I would have already found somewhere else to live! I prefer cold to heat but there are limits.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> 2eAt those temperatures I would have already found somewhere else to live! I prefer cold to heat but there are limits.


I think that refers to my mentioning the outside and inside temps here* yesterday. But by afternoon it was 18° out and 52° in. I am used to it being nippy inside. I have indoor/outdoor jackets, the L.L. Bean heavy, 3 button tweed with ghillie collar and quilted Thinsulate liner a staple.

I keep minimal heat downstairs, and none up. I sleep up there, a digital thermometer on the night stand. It read 29° when I woke at 6. It is 3 feet from my head. But that head is wearing a woolen night cap. The bed is a single because it's easier to warm up a small bed, The mattress has a heated pad, turned on an hour before nighty night. Flannel sheets top and bottom, a heavy, stuffed, 100 year old quilt, a wool army blanket and a down filled Hilfiger comforter atop.

I'm guessing it's maybe 70° inside the bed (and have never thought to take the temperature gun to bed, but will and report back.) Heat in the bed is aided by four hot water bottles placed there prior. Suavatel comes in handy. I'm not sure exactly what that is, but I get it at $Tree, empty it out and fill with water because tbe bottle size and pliable construction make it perfect for microwaving, and later to place close to a dozing me. Another Bean tweed goes under the covers, to get toasty to put on at get-up time. Last night the water bottle on the night stand had skimmed over. So, Sarge, I don't think Down East, at least here at the Pinery, would be your cup of tea. Iced tea maybe.

_* Mars Hill, Maine_


----------



## Peak and Pine

This heavy duty all-burlap bag with carrying straps, meant to hold Xmas gift booz I imagine, was 1/2 price at the Tree's after Xmas sale, so I bought them all, four, because they're perfect in which to plop my four hot water bottles as I trudge up the rickety stairs to my highway to heaven, my toasty twin bed.


----------



## drpeter

Peak and Pine said:


> This heavy duty all-burlap bag with carrying straps, meant to hold Xmas gift booz I imagine, was 1/2 price at the Tree's after Xmas sale, so I bought them all, four, because they're perfect in which to plop my four hot water bottles as I trudge up the rickety stairs to my highway to heaven, my toasty twin bed.
> 
> View attachment 74633


Nice bag!


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> I think that refers to my mentioning the outside and inside temps here* yesterday. But by afternoon it was 18° out and 52° in. I am used to it being nippy inside. I have indoor/outdoor jackets, the L.L. Bean heavy, 3 button tweed with ghillie collar and quilted Thinsulate liner a staple.
> 
> I keep minimal heat downstairs, and none up. I sleep up there, a digital thermometer on the night stand. It read 29° when I woke at 6. It is 3 feet from my head. But that head is wearing a woolen night cap. The bed is a single because it's easier to warm up a small bed, The mattress has a heated pad, turned on an hour before nighty night. Flannel sheets top and bottom, a heavy, stuffed, 100 year old quilt, a wool army blanket and a down filled Hilfiger comforter atop.
> 
> I'm guessing it's maybe 70° inside the bed (and have never thought to take the temperature gun to bed, but will and report back.) Heat in the bed is aided by four hot water bottles placed there prior. Suavatel comes in handy. I'm not sure exactly what that is, but I get it at $Tree, empty it out and fill with water because tbe bottle size and pliable construction make it perfect for microwaving, and later to place close to a dozing me. Another Bean tweed goes under the covers, to get toasty to put on at get-up time. Last night the water bottle on the night stand had skimmed over. So, Sarge, I don't think Down East, at least here at the Pinery, would be your cup of tea. Iced tea maybe.
> 
> _* Mars Hill, Maine_


You are obviously a man who understands and has adapted to his environment! Well done, sir. But you are correct, I can imagine happily bringing a fly rod to Maine during the summer but would have to leave with the first snow flurries.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Oldsarge said:


> You are obviously a man who understands and has adapted to his environment! Well done, sir. But you are correct, I can imagine happily bringing a fly rod to Maine during the summer but would have to leave with the first snow flurries.


I actually find the first snow flurries sort of magical, and I love sleeping as Peak has described, well bundled in a cold room. My problem with New England winters is their longevity. Any season that can last nearly half a year wears on me, witness Texas summers. I loved the moderate climates of Oregon and the mid-Atlantic states with their four distinct three month seasons, but as the climate changes those phenomena are vanishing. My brother reports that the Boston climate reminds him of DC fifty years ago. The PNW is dealing with extreme heat and cold, as is Texas. We all need to be prepared for new weather, wherever we are, and I commend the soundness of Peak's approach to sleeping warm in a cold room!


----------



## Oldsarge

I keep my house pretty moderate year round and my approach to sleeping in a cold room is a standard poodle curled up on the bed next to me. She's not my first choice in bedmates but for the present she'll do.


----------



## Flanderian

Another vintage Holland and Holland tweed jacket. And BTW, for any whom it might interest Holland and Holland has now been purchased by Beretta.


----------



## Oldsarge

At the rate Beretta is going they will have soon cornered the entire European arms industry. I shouldn't be the least surprised to see their marque on the front of armored cars and antiaircraft batteries.


----------



## challer

Oldsarge said:


> At the rate Beretta is going they will have soon cornered the entire European arms industry. I shouldn't be the least surprised to see their marque on the front of armored cars and antiaircraft batteries.


Beretta, FNH, Blaser Group own the vast majority of the EU and much of the US firearms industry. Thankfully they make some excellent kit


----------



## Flanderian

challer said:


> Beretta, FNH, Blaser Group own the vast majority of the EU and much of the US firearms industry. Thankfully they make some excellent kit


I knew they had been purchasing firms, didn't know it was that much. But I am exceptionally pleased that they haven't just trashed the brands, which seems to be B101 for American businesses.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> I knew they had been purchasing firms, didn't know it was that much. But I am exceptionally pleased that they haven't just trashed the brands, which seems to be B101 for American businesses.


It's possible that the reason that they haven't is that the firm is still family owned and operated after all these centuries. I suspect that they keep the account staff strictly giving reports and not making decisions. Never let accountants set policy.


----------



## Flanderian

Nice jacket of gorgeous, thick tweed. Lower the button stance a smidge, and ease the waist a tad to reduce quarters gaping, and I'll take one! 👍


----------



## challer

I'm curious if anyone knows the history of when more flamboyant tweeds came into play versus more estate tweeds. I enjoy examples of both but ones like the above seem more contemporary.


----------



## Flanderian

challer said:


> I'm curious if anyone knows the history of when more flamboyant tweeds came into play versus more estate tweeds. I enjoy examples of both but ones like the above seem more contemporary.


Tweeds like the above were certainly being worn by flashier gents in the '30's, and I suspect earlier also. The above jacket leans toward the genre known as horse blanket tweeds, I.e., a large plaid, often with vivid coloring.


----------



## drpeter

Flanderian said:


> Nice jacket of gorgeous, thick tweed. Lower the button stance a smidge, and ease the waist a tad to reduce quarters gaping, and I'll take one! 👍
> 
> View attachment 74723


I like the choice of colours and textures in the assemblage here, insofar as one can judge from screen images. The jacket looks primarily grey-green with cream or yellow lines in the pattern. Slightly darker grey in what I assume are flannel slacks, and again a slightly different shade of the grey-green hue in the tie. The shirt looks like a very neutral light blue. The overall effect is excellent and quite tasteful.


----------



## challer

Flanderian said:


> Tweeds like the above were certainly being worn by flashier gents in the '30's, and I suspect earlier also. The above jacket leans toward the genre known as horse blanket tweeds, I.e., a large plaid, often with vivid coloring.


Thanks, that's why I come here.


----------



## StephenRG

challer said:


> I'm curious if anyone knows the history of when more flamboyant tweeds came into play versus more estate tweeds. I enjoy examples of both but ones like the above seem more contemporary.


Probably from the very beginning of tweed, as they simply used tartan patterns, which can themselves be somewhat flamboyant. Here's the original Balmoral tweed from the 1850s. Discreet it isn't.

https://www.scottishtartans.co.uk/Balmoral_Tartan.pdf


----------



## Flanderian

drpeter said:


> I like the choice of colours and textures in the assemblage here, insofar as one can judge from screen images. The jacket looks primarily grey-green with cream or yellow lines in the pattern. Slightly darker grey in what I assume are flannel slacks, and again a slightly different shade of the grey-green hue in the tie. The shirt looks like a very neutral light blue. The overall effect is excellent and quite tasteful.


Yes, subtle and pleasing. My monitor reads a grey-green ground with a primary maize overcheck, and a secondary of navy. An an example that subtle need not be boring, but can be high art.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian

Throwing the Yalies a bone!


----------



## Flanderian

challer said:


> I'm curious if anyone knows the history of when more flamboyant tweeds came into play versus more estate tweeds. I enjoy examples of both but ones like the above seem more contemporary.


Found this, and believe it's a fair example of plaid tweeds I have seen described as horse blanket plaids. Bright and bold as it is, I might enjoy a jacket of it, and possibly even a vest/waistcoat too. But a 3-piece?  Despite being beautifully cut and tailored.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## challer

StephenRG said:


> Probably from the very beginning of tweed, as they simply used tartan patterns, which can themselves be somewhat flamboyant. Here's the original Balmoral tweed from the 1850s. Discreet it isn't.
> 
> https://www.scottishtartans.co.uk/Balmoral_Tartan.pdf


Fascinating read, thank you


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 74965


That's the way to do it!


----------



## challer

Alpaca Tweed? Jackshirt? Leffot


----------



## Flanderian

challer said:


> Alpaca Tweed? Jackshirt? Leffot
> 
> View attachment 74995


Beautiful shirt jacket! 👍


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian

Interesting pairings accomplished by a razor sharp _eye_!

Polo with DB, and would even work if a suit. A example of sports suiting accessorized with other than shirt and tie and looking perfectly natural.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

I WANT that pocket square!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian

A somewhat more subdued horse blanket plaid -


----------



## Flanderian

Parquet pattern tweed -


----------



## Troones

Flanderian said:


> A somewhat more subdued horse blanket plaid -
> 
> View attachment 75449


Oh this would be my next tweed if I could find it, afford it, justify another tweed purchase, and had someplace to go!


----------



## StephenRG

I don't recall if anyone had posted stills from the Guy Ritchie film "The Gentlemen",...herewith:


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> I don't recall if anyone had posted stills from the Guy Ritchie film "The Gentlemen",...herewith:


A lot of great cloth in this film. The cuts and fits, not so much.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Sign me up. I would wear this and wear it just like that.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Troones said:


> Oh this would be my next tweed if I could find it, afford it, justify another tweed purchase, and had someplace to go!


Have you seen the new horse blanket offering at OC? It is on sale.


----------



## drpeter

StephenRG said:


> I don't recall if anyone had posted stills from the Guy Ritchie film "The Gentlemen",...herewith:


Outstanding! I have a sports jacket with very similar checks and colours, only a bit greener in the basic background.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Peak and Pine

Vecchio Vespa said:


> Have you seen the new horse blanket offering at OC? It is on sale.


Curious, is _horse blanket_ an actual term to describe large plaids in muted colors? Thought it was something Flanderian made up. Google is no help.

I have jackets that would fall under this nomenclature, but don't want them to. I'm liking the term _horse blanket tweed_ about as much as I like the title of the thread that features older, sometimes eccentricly dressed gents (which because of I've stopped visiting).


----------



## Troones

Vecchio Vespa said:


> Have you seen the new horse blanket offering at OC? It is on sale.


Looking ASAP!


----------



## Flanderian

A flashy mess, but the colors are lovely. Somehow, almost seems to work.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Oldsarge

I love pocket watches.


----------



## FiscalDean

Peak and Pine said:


> Curious, is _horse blanket_ an actual term to describe large plaids in muted colors? Thought it was something Flanderian made up. Google is no help.
> 
> John T. Molloy may have coined the term back in 1975 in his book "New Dress for Success".


----------



## eagle2250

Flanderian said:


> A flashy mess, but the colors are lovely. Somehow, almost seems to work.
> 
> View attachment 75575


I could live with everything except the tie and the pocket square. Each of those are just "an accessory to far!" LOL.


----------



## Troones

Vecchio Vespa said:


> Have you seen the new horse blanket offering at OC? It is on sale.


As nice as that one from O'Connell's is (and thank you for leading me to it), I happened upon this very similar one at J. Press for an even bigger discount. So, I just put my order in! 

I understand that this is one of those jackets that will be remembered and therefore is to be worn sparingly. I was confident that my stock of more subtle tweeds was sufficient enough that there was room for this one in the pile.

Press calls this their "Crazy Plaid" sportcoat. Perfect for me as I am a pretty _wild and crazy guy! _ Within reason of course. Weather permitting.


----------



## drpeter

Perhaps this is obvious, but I'll point it out nevertheless:

One of the things that I look for in sports jackets made of cloth which are checks or plaids is the matching of patterns at the various seams -- shoulders and sleeves, lapels (symmetry of pattern), pocket flaps, breast pocket, center seam in the back, perhaps even the side seams. In an ideally tailored coat, all of these areas would be correctly matched in pattern, so that there is continuity.

In practice, such perfect matching may not be possible even with bespoke tailoring, especially if the pattern in the cloth has asymmetries built into the weave in terms of the colours and thicknesses built into the various lines that form the check or plaid. It then becomes an individual preference or tolerance. How much departure from ideal matching is one willing to tolerate?

I have a variety of such sportcoats, although nothing with checks quite as pronounced as in the horse blanket jacket. I have a range of asymmetries in these jackets, ranging from none to two or three, all of which are fairly unobtrusive. The darker the shade, the less visible such mismatches are.

Which brings us to the most important question of all, LOL: How do _horses_ feel about these horse blankets and the plaids and patterns in them? Or about the sports jackets that their riders wear made out of their horse blankets, adding insult to injury perhaps?


----------



## Flanderian

drpeter said:


> Perhaps this is obvious, but I'll point it out nevertheless:
> 
> One of the things that I look for in sports jackets made of cloth which are checks or plaids is the matching of patterns at the various seams -- shoulders and sleeves, lapels (symmetry of pattern), pocket flaps, breast pocket, center seam in the back, perhaps even the side seams. In an ideally tailored coat, all of these areas would be correctly matched in pattern, so that there is continuity.
> 
> In practice, such perfect matching may not be possible even with bespoke tailoring, especially if the pattern in the cloth has asymmetries built into the weave in terms of the colours and thicknesses built into the various lines that form the check or plaid. It then becomes an individual preference or tolerance. How much departure from ideal matching is one willing to tolerate?
> 
> I have a variety of such sportcoats, although nothing with checks quite as pronounced as in the horse blanket jacket. I have a range of asymmetries in these jackets, ranging from none to two or three, all of which are fairly unobtrusive. The darker the shade, the less visible such mismatches are.
> 
> Which brings us to the most important question of all, LOL: How do _horses_ feel about these horse blankets and the plaids and patterns in them? Or about the sports jackets that their riders wear made out of their horse blankets, adding insult to injury perhaps?


Nay.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## ksinc

if I were on an unstructured, 2b, triple patch, tweed sport coat trip …when would it be wrong/incorrect?
faux tweeds/silk would still be ok. 
ever wrong?


----------



## ksinc

I’m awaiting moderation?


----------



## Andy

ksinc said:


> I'm awaiting moderation?


ksinc:

Have *NO* idea why you would be on moderation! ??? Maybe the new owners thought that "Misesians" was a naughty word.:devil:


----------



## Oldsarge

ksinc said:


> if I were on an unstructured, 2b, triple patch, tweed sport coat trip &#8230;when would it be wrong/incorrect?
> faux tweeds/silk would still be ok.
> ever wrong?


Hmmm, well this old duffer believes that such a garment would only be wrong at funerals, court appearances, getting called on the carpet at a major bank/law firm/accountancy or some other such extremely formal occasions. From the standpoint of one retired, that's getting dressed for church or going out to a white tablecloth restaurant clothing.


----------



## ksinc

Andy, Nice! Great consulting, Sir!

And; it is! 👍


----------



## Flairball

Did somebody say triple patch tweed sport coat?


----------



## Flairball

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 75619


That is a lovely jacket.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Am cropping out the crappy tie, square and shirt collar...










Ahhhh, smooth.


----------



## Flanderian

Flairball said:


> Did somebody say triple patch tweed sport coat?
> View attachment 75697


Really handsome tweed! 👍


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## drpeter

If you ask me, Peaks, the _sang-froid_ of those tweeds (Donegal?) is almost totally destroyed by the blue jeans. Especially with a waistcoat and jacket combination. I am all for experimenting with formal/informal blending, but somehow this looks too outré. Just my opinion, others may find this ensemble the very essence of stylish good looks.


----------



## Peak and Pine

drpeter said:


> If you ask me, Peaks, the _sang-froid_ of those tweeds (Donegal?) is almost totally destroyed by the blue jeans.


I understand. But don't agree. The forum, and maybe the world, is disinclined toward navy pants and some of the dislike of jeans with jackets, though maybe not yours, is due to the fact that jeans are also navy pants, albeit with rough texture. Donegal can, as worn here, also be rough textured.

The outfit, seemingly complex with jacket, vest and tie, is simple'd down by the use of just two colors, just one pattern, no square and all of a country/rough texture. Obviously well thought out with extra thought given to not looking too well thought out. I like this. It's got a good beat and you can dance to it.

_You and I may have different definitions of sang froid. Mine does not apply here, even if I agreed with your assessment. Or did you mean feng shui, for harmony and balance?_


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

I love the wearing of jeans with tweeds (and Shetlands). I wore some old beat up 501s (no rips or patches, just honest wear) with a blue gingham BD a grey herringbone, and brown western boots yesterday and felt I looked pretty snappy. I was certainly comfy, as it was perfect for 55F.


----------



## drpeter

@Peak and Pine and @Vecchio Vespa I guess I will have to disagree politely.

I am all right with the general approach where tweed jackets are worn with jeans (or khakis, as I usually do -- I wear jeans infrequently). What I did not care for in the photos posted by Peaks was mainly the combination of jacket, a vest and even a necktie with jeans, The tie is really something I think does not go together well with jeans. Ties, for me, are far too formal to be combined with jeans, which are very informal. The jacket alone is something I don't object to -- in fact, I would be fine with a navy blazer and even a dinner jacket with jeans or khakis. The vest and tie in the same material, along with the jacket, IMHO, calls out for a matching pair of trousers in the same material -- in other words, a suit.

But these are matters of taste, and we can differ.

As for _sang-froid_, I simply meant coolness, the quality of verve, panache, aplomb...Something along those lines. Appropriateness too figures somewhere in there, being a fitting combination, creating a good effect.


----------



## ran23

If I wear denim today, I will pull out my navy gingham shirt. I like that look.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Peter Christian, $275


----------



## drpeter

That ticks all the boxes for me, Peaks! You picked a winner.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

drpeter said:


> @Peak and Pine and @Vecchio Vespa I guess I will have to disagree politely.
> 
> I am all right with the general approach where tweed jackets are worn with jeans (or khakis, as I usually do -- I wear jeans infrequently). What I did not care for in the photos posted by Peaks was mainly the combination of jacket, a vest and even a necktie with jeans, The tie is really something I think does not go together well with jeans. Ties, for me, are far too formal to be combined with jeans, which are very informal. The jacket alone is something I don't object to -- in fact, I would be fine with a navy blazer and even a dinner jacket with jeans or khakis. The vest and tie in the same material, along with the jacket, IMHO, calls out for a matching pair of trousers in the same material -- in other words, a suit.
> 
> But these are matters of taste, and we can differ.
> 
> As for _sang-froid_, I simply meant coolness, the quality of verve, panache, aplomb...Something along those lines. Appropriateness too figures somewhere in there, being a fitting combination, creating a good effect.


I like jeans, a BD, and tweed but would not add a tie. I generally do not like vests and jackets of the same cloth unless they are in a full suit, accompanied by their matching pants. I am envious by (at least) one aspect of living in northern climes as @Peak and Pine and @drpeter do, the possibility of wearing a tweed suit. Ages ago I had a grey-green herringbone suit with vest and unlined pants. It was a Cricketeer. It required a fairly cold day to be comfortable, but it was terrific on such days. The vest was reversible to ochre flannel and got a lot of wear on that side with other jackets. I loved wearing that suit with a yellow shirt and a deep red paisley tie.


----------



## Flanderian

Very handsome rust tweed unfortunately displayed on a red colored form -


----------



## Peak and Pine

Blue donegal. Peter Christian. $189


----------



## Peak and Pine

Chocolate donegal. Peter Christian, $180


----------



## some_dude

I wear a tweed jacket with denim frequently. Even with a vest (although the vest is a different pattern than the jacket), but not with a tie. I think the tweed/denim combo looks great, when it is done well.


----------



## Tweedlover

drpeter said:


> @Peak and Pine and @Vecchio Vespa I guess I will have to disagree politely.
> 
> I am all right with the general approach where tweed jackets are worn with jeans (or khakis, as I usually do -- I wear jeans infrequently). What I did not care for in the photos posted by Peaks was mainly the combination of jacket, a vest and even a necktie with jeans, The tie is really something I think does not go together well with jeans. Ties, for me, are far too formal to be combined with jeans, which are very informal. The jacket alone is something I don't object to -- in fact, I would be fine with a navy blazer and even a dinner jacket with jeans or khakis. The vest and tie in the same material, along with the jacket, IMHO, calls out for a matching pair of trousers in the same material -- in other words, a suit.
> 
> But these are matters of taste, and we can differ.
> 
> As for _sang-froid_, I simply meant coolness, the quality of verve, panache, aplomb...Something along those lines. Appropriateness too figures somewhere in there, being a fitting combination, creating a good effect.


I could go as far as a vest with tweed jacket and jeans, (depending on the vest). But agree that a tie doesn't look right to me with jacket and jeans.


----------



## Troones

This Press jacket I posted last week unbelievably showed up the next day. A new record. I did pay for expedited shipping but did not expect next day service.

Anyway, point is that I purchased this with express intent on wearing it with blue jeans and button down. Tweed + denim works great in my opinion. I would never hesitate.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^^
Way to go. A bold move. So, another pic soon, with you inside? (We deserve it.)

Potentially tough to pair, the site's dresser did a good job with this. A pull back, below, shows the chosen pants, faded burgundy khakis. Looks good.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

^^
Top notch, tie too.
Cap, not so much.

Next...


----------



## Oldsarge

I bought that. It makes for comfort while allowing me to keep the thermostat down in money-saving territory.


----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> I bought that. It makes for comfort while allowing me to keep the thermostat down in money-saving territory.


It's been cool enough down here for the last few days to allow me to wear my new BB Merino Wool cardigan around the house. I am a hapy man. LOL.


----------



## ksinc

Denim and Tweed are cousins. They are each the heartiest and most common fabrics of their respective working peoples. This like asking if peas and carrots go together.


----------



## Tweedlover

Peak and Pine said:


> ^^
> Top notch, tie too.
> Cap, not so much.
> 
> Next...
> 
> View attachment 76429


Hey, I liked that cap above.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Tweedlover said:


> Hey, I liked that cap above.


It's not the cap per se (I have similar); it's the tiny h'tooth in the same shade as, and next to, the tiny basket weave. Maybe when there's a real head in between it won't look so muddied.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Ralph Lauren. Jacket only, $1,339.


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Troones

Peak and Pine said:


> ^^
> Way to go. A bold move. So, another pic soon, with you inside? (We deserve it.)
> 
> Potentially tough to pair, the site's dresser did a good job with this. A pull back, below, shows the chosen pants, faded burgundy khakis. Looks good.
> 
> View attachment 76399


Good point about the pairing. I have burgundy trousers and I assume they work as the jacket has a touch of burgundy in the pattern. Being that it also has a touch of blue I'm thinking that will help its chances of working with blue jeans.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

Harris tweed. Full suit. Studio Suits, $525.


----------



## Flanderian

Fred Sanford tweed.


----------



## Vecchio Vespa

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 76779
> 
> View attachment 76781
> 
> View attachment 76783
> 
> 
> Harris tweed. Full suit. Studio Suits, $525.


That is the color(s) of my beloved Cricketeer three piece suit in 1967, but it was a 3/2 sack. I still miss it. Of course with its 26" waist there was never a chance we would get back together.


----------



## Flanderian

There is a genre of casual jacket in France I've typically read typically is describe a French workman's jacket or utility jacket. A very simple square cut jacket with ample pockets and plenty of room. Here Fox Brothers offers a version made in France, only of British tweed. All wrong for some, but just right for others.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Ebay. From Shanghai, new, wool blend. $104, shipped.










Or gray...


----------



## Flanderian

Great Raglan sleeve overcoat with belt -


----------



## Peak and Pine

Polo Ralph Lauren...










Nice. There's more...


















However, Ralph has made three mistakes with this. One, it costs $1,799. Two, you'll see below...










It's stupidly short. Three, it's being modeled by a characterless 14 year-old...


----------



## 215339




----------



## Flanderian

delicious_scent said:


>


S-M-O-O-T-H tweed! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Spring tweed? Looks like a blend of fibers.


----------



## ItalianStyle

^ Burlap tweed?


----------



## Flanderian

Flanderian said:


> Spring tweed? Looks like a blend of fibers.
> 
> View attachment 77305


Note; I posted it for overall aesthetic harmony, *despite* the Emerald City gorge height.



ItalianStyle said:


> ^ Burlap tweed?


:icon_jokercolor: :icon_jokercolor:


----------



## Flanderian

Tweed marching to the beat of a different drummer. Emerald City gorge height not withstanding.


----------



## drpeter

Peak and Pine said:


> Three, it's being modeled by a characterless 14 year-old...


Come now, Peaks. That's a bit high-handed. You see the lower half of the lad's face and decide he is characterless? Is this reverse ageism?


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> Tweed marching to the beat of a different drummer. Emerald City gorge height not withstanding.
> 
> View attachment 77377


Poor fellow - forgot to put the right suit jacket on.


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Poor fellow - forgot to put the right suit jacket on.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Troones

Flanderian said:


> Tweed marching to the beat of a different drummer. Emerald City gorge height not withstanding.
> 
> View attachment 77377


I would be all over this tweed if it had notch lapels. Good stuff!


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Hopalong Pumpkin?


----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> Hopalong Pumpkin?
> 
> View attachment 77479


Perhaps the same colour that Ian Fleming had in mind for Goldfinger's golfing rig.


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Hopalong Pumpkin?
> 
> View attachment 77479


Casentino cloth. Definitely Geezer Power!


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> Perhaps the same colour that Ian Fleming had in mind for Goldfinger's golfing rig.


:laughing: 👍



Oldsarge said:


> Casentino cloth. Definitely Geezer Power!


Think it's tweed.


----------



## Flanderian

Tan herringbone and moleskin. Like PB&J -


----------



## Troones

Rather than create a separate thread, I thought I’d ask here: Would gun check be considered an essential tweed? What about houndstooth? Wondering what the must-haves are as I fear there are gaps in my wardrobe.🤔


----------



## 215339

Troones said:


> Rather than create a separate thread, I thought I'd ask here: Would gun check be considered an essential tweed? What about houndstooth? Wondering what the must-haves are as I fear there are gaps in my wardrobe.🤔


I think the colours and textures matter more than just gun check or houndstooth.

"Colder" temperature tweed jackets seem more versatile to my eye. They seem to work with both colder and warmer hued trousers and shirts/turtlenecks.


__
http://instagr.am/p/CLWw9KVHMFq/

A "warmer" tweed jacket seems a bit more difficult to pair. It looks it needs the rest of the outfit to also have a "warm" hue.


__
http://instagr.am/p/CY9XncDMFhs/

All things considered though, I think it's hard to wrong.

For fun, here is both a guncheck+houndstooth tweed


__
http://instagr.am/p/CYt-0pGMBxo/


----------



## Flanderian

Troones said:


> Rather than create a separate thread, I thought I'd ask here: Would gun check be considered an essential tweed? What about houndstooth? Wondering what the must-haves are as I fear there are gaps in my wardrobe.🤔


I'm unsure there is any essential tweed. But I believe one of the most common, useful and handsome to be herringbone. But I love both gun check and houndstooth, and both are certainly classic patterns for tweed and other cloth.


----------



## Flanderian

delicious_scent said:


> I think the colours and textures matter more than just gun check or houndstooth.
> 
> "Colder" temperature tweed jackets seem more versatile to my eye. They seem to work with both colder and warmer hued trousers and shirts/turtlenecks.
> 
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/CLWw9KVHMFq/
> 
> A "warmer" tweed jacket seems a bit more difficult to pair. It looks it needs the rest of the outfit to also have a "warm" hue.
> 
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/CY9XncDMFhs/
> 
> All things considered though, I think it's hard to wrong.
> 
> For fun, here is both a guncheck+houndstooth tweed
> 
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/CYt-0pGMBxo/


Outstanding! 👍 👍 👍


----------



## Troones

delicious_scent said:


> I think the colours and textures matter more than just gun check or houndstooth.
> 
> "Colder" temperature tweed jackets seem more versatile to my eye. They seem to work with both colder and warmer hued trousers and shirts/turtlenecks.
> 
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/CLWw9KVHMFq/
> 
> A "warmer" tweed jacket seems a bit more difficult to pair. It looks it needs the rest of the outfit to also have a "warm" hue.
> 
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/CY9XncDMFhs/
> 
> All things considered though, I think it's hard to wrong.
> 
> For fun, here is both a guncheck+houndstooth tweed
> 
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/CYt-0pGMBxo/


Yes! I've been considering one like in the second photo for awhile now.


----------



## Flanderian

Unconstructed jacket in thick, soft Donegal tweed -


----------



## Flanderian

Nice jacket, not wild about the tie -


----------



## Troones

I particularly like the pocket square with the jacket.


----------



## Flanderian

Troones said:


> View attachment 77663
> 
> I particularly like the pocket square with the jacket.


Marvelous tweed, agree concerning PS.

Cut and other accessorization I'm less fond of, largely because there are alternatives I would prefer. But that's Phineas Cole.


----------



## Oldsarge

agreed. That shirt and tie have to go!


----------



## Flanderian

Soft navy Donegal tweed jacket worn over tucked in navy cashmere sweater. (T-neck?) and an instance were tonal difference provides the necessary contrast between two cloths of nominally the same color.

Both worn over thick, soft light grey foggy flannel trousers with a D-ring extension waist band closure. Beautiful ensemble of beautiful cloths. IMHO, it just doesn't get much better.


----------



## Flanderian

Tick weave -


----------



## Troones

Good chance this has been posted before. If so, here it is again. 🙃


----------



## Flanderian

Troones said:


> View attachment 77737
> 
> Good chance this has been posted before. If so, here it is again. 🙃


Exceptional! 👍


----------



## Flanderian

Nice basic tweed until we get to (What the ****! 😦) Buttoning the bottom vest button and leaving the top one undone isn't fresh and sprezzatura, it's just an I-gent cliche and dumb, because it looks lousy.


----------



## Flanderian

Check tweed jacket and cream colored flannels under belted topcoat -


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Check tweed jacket and cream colored flannels under belted topcoat -
> 
> View attachment 78007


I find this attractive but odd. The materials (flannel and tweed) all look like a brisk day's outing but the colors are decidedly summery. Very strange, IMO.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> I find this attractive but odd. The materials (flannel and tweed) all look like a brisk day's outing but the colors are decidedly summery. Very strange, IMO.


Yes, and no. While cream flannels were in the '30's the height of summer style, I can recall them also being worn during the cooler months. This ensemble is via Seoul, you have the style subject to regional interpretation.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Oh, I WANT that.


----------



## drpeter

Flanderian said:


> Yes, and no. While cream flannels were in the '30's the height of summer style, I can recall them also being worn during the cooler months. This ensemble is via Seoul, you have the style subject to regional interpretation.


This is interesting indeed. Reading comments and suggestions in some of the other clothes forums, I get the distinct impression that cream and off-white trousers (flannel, cotton and even denim) are being revived as appropriate wear for the winter months. It's also worth considering that other clothes on the lighter end of the colour spectrum appear to be fine during winter -- the heavier-weight khakis for instance, sometimes even fully lined with cotton flannel inside.

Perhaps it is an existentialist revival, LOL. After all, it was Albert Camus who wrote that "_In the depths of winter, I finally learned that within me there lay an invincible summer_". We could adapt that and say that in the depths of winter, we finally learned that our bodies could be clothed in an invincible cream flannel. Or words to that effect.


----------



## challer

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 78037


Hope that thing has a real action back. The rest of the outfit doesn't seem to support actual sporting us. The jacket is lovely


----------



## Flanderian

challer said:


> Hope that thing has a real action back. The rest of the outfit doesn't seem to support actual sporting us. The jacket is lovely


Made for show, not for go?


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Troones

Flanderian said:


> Check tweed jacket and cream colored flannels under belted topcoat -
> 
> View attachment 78007


Wish I could find an off the peg version of this sport coat. Someone posted a picture of James Garner wearing an identical one a while back and I thought "yep, that's my next jacket."


----------



## Flanderian

Simply classic -


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 78301


I like everything about that rig, except for the university striped shirt that just doesn't work with the rest of it! Just saying.....


----------



## challer

For some reason the pattern feels like a moire pattern on old TV. Like the jacket though


----------



## Clintotron

Flanderian said:


> Tick weave -
> 
> View attachment 77715


"Tick weave" makes me think of 'thick' as pronounced in our native Cajun dialect. Haha


----------



## ksinc

Troones said:


> Wish I could find an off the peg version of this sport coat. Someone posted a picture of James Garner wearing an identical one a while back and I thought "yep, that's my next jacket."


S&M has two that are 'very' close.


----------



## Oldsarge

Hemrajani just sent me a couple of sample books to borrow while I dream. Divij says that W Bill has some wild Donegals. He wasn't just woofin'! I will spend the next day or two drooling and then return them with an order. I haven't had him make me a jacket in a couple of years and I'm getting the itch.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Hemrajani just sent me a couple of sample books to borrow while I dream. Divij says that W Bill has some wild Donegals. He wasn't just woofin'! I will spend the next day or two drooling and then return them with an order. I haven't had him make me a jacket in a couple of years and I'm getting the itch.
> 
> View attachment 78321


Lovely looking tweed! Do you know who the makers are?


----------



## Flanderian

Fairisle under moleskin jerkin, under tweed topcoat =


----------



## Troones

Oldsarge said:


> Hemrajani just sent me a couple of sample books to borrow while I dream. Divij says that W Bill has some wild Donegals. He wasn't just woofin'! I will spend the next day or two drooling and then return them with an order. I haven't had him make me a jacket in a couple of years and I'm getting the itch.
> 
> View attachment 78321


#34536 (second from the left) is outstanding. I had a Donegal sport coat in those colors as a young teen in the 80s. My parents gave it to me for some such occasion. It would have been my first "real" jacket as a teenager.


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Lovely looking tweed! Do you know who the makers are?


Yes, W. Bill. I am really giving serious thought to the one second from the right. W. Bill makes a violet and a red maroon that are equally lovely but I fear that if I ordered jackets in colors that wild I would never work up the nerve to wear them anywhere so a "brilliant rust" is about as adventuresome as I'm going to go.


----------



## challer

Second from the left looks wonderful. OTH violet, particularly deeper violet, softened a bit with grey/black, makes a wonderful piece, particularly a shirt/jac sort of thing


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Yes, W. Bill. I am really giving serious thought to the one second from the right. W. Bill makes a violet and a red maroon that are equally lovely but I fear that if I ordered jackets in colors that wild I would never work up the nerve to wear them anywhere so a "brilliant rust" is about as adventuresome as I'm going to go.


Thanks! W. Bill still has a fine reputation for special tweeds. 👍

Yes, the brilliant rust with the many colored slubs is outstanding, if it compliments your coloring. I'm kinda intrigued by the center tweed in rich brown that looks to have a bit of purple in it. So rich and easy to play off against many different cloths and colors of trousers.


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian, I thought about that but I really like the rust. I can wear it over both my vest/trouser sets in grey and in tan with a whole raft of striped, checked or Tattersall shirts. I think I might need to cull my solids and add a couple in patterns. I have the grey herringbone cap. Now I need to look for a tan. And go out to eat more often! Over the last two years I have gotten heartily tired of making and cleaning up twenty-one meals a week for one-and-a-poodle. Allegedly the state ends its mask mandate NLT March 31.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 78499


Very nice! 👍


----------



## challer

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 78499


All of these are wonderful. I have a question and that is how to reference the far left from the third on the left. I have articles in both but there must be some descriptive beyond black/white herringbone.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 78563


Outstanding! 👍
i


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian

Bold tweed -


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## StephenRG

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 79057


That roll is so good that one dare not take it to a regular dry-cleaner's.


----------



## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> That roll is so good that one dare not take it to a regular dry-cleaner's.


Yes, could be a problem. Made me think about my dry cleaner, but I wear my jackets so infrequently now, and get them cleaned even less so, I'm not sure I clearly remember. But best I can, I recall them not mashing them.

I've also found that unless their work is egregiously bad, the roll can largely be restored by ironing the back of the lapel with a steam iron.


----------



## drpeter

Flanderian said:


> Yes, could be a problem. Made me think about my dry cleaner, but I wear my jackets so infrequently now, and get them cleaned even less so, I'm not sure I clearly remember. But best I can, I recall them not mashing them.
> 
> I've also found that unless their work is egregiously bad, the roll can largely be restored by ironing the back of the lapel with a steam iron.


I have found that the roll can easily be restored by careful use of a clothes steamer, both on the front and the back of each lapel.

BTW, my worst troubles with dry cleaners come from trying to remove those white numbered stickers they place inside your clothes. Most recently, I took in a Burberry raincoat and they placed that darned sticker right on top of the Burberry label under the inside collar! I finally managed to scrape it off, but there were still some marks left on the label.


----------



## Flanderian

Glen check, patch pockets, nice, but looks a little short.


----------



## Flanderian

Country coat, sweater vest, check shirt and country tie -


----------



## Flanderian

Vintage stripe -


----------



## Oldsarge

That's a tweed? Innnnnnteresting!


----------



## Peak and Pine

Top, guy who wears a hat during a fitting. Bottom, Vincent Price.


----------



## Flanderian

Don't care for the white collar shirt with this ensemble, otherwise, very nice!


----------



## Oldsarge

The jacket is stunning.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Flanderian said:


> Don't care for the white collar shirt with this ensemble, otherwise, very nice!
> View attachment 83763


For a niche audience, those that like barn door lapels in fluorescent blue.

Spend a brief moment with dead actor Alan Ladd in a bad fitting tweed...










For Donegal fans (I be one), a green one, from Jennis and Warrmann, MTM, yours for around $500...


----------



## Peak and Pine

From Studio Suits. Harris tweed a billed as a pea coat (with an Edwardian flavor?). Reasonably priced at $375.


----------



## Peak and Pine

I would dearly love to edit the above and change a to and, but the method to do so eludes, even tho Cricket has shown where and how to do this, the option is not availble mobil-wise, here on my Betty Crocket cell.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Make that Crocker. Auto correct changed it to Crocket, as in Davy. And so the gag is lost. O, for a findable edit function.


----------



## ItalianStyle

Peak and Pine said:


> Make that Crocker. Auto correct changed it to Crocket, as in Davy. And so the gag is lost. O, for a findable edit function.


The 3 dots in the upper right of a post reveal an "Edit" link (if it is your own post).
Do they show on your vintage phone?


----------



## Peak and Pine

ItalianStyle said:


> The 3 dots in the upper right of a post reveal an "Edit" link (if it is your own post).
> Do they show on your vintage phone?


Ah, thank ye.
I was clicking the three dots in the header next to the avatar, zilch, then the three dots next to the address bar, zero, and now, thanks to you, I see the tiny tiny ghostly three dots on my posts. No need to call 911, my planned next move.


----------



## Peak and Pine

ItalianStyle said:


> Do they show on your vintage phone?


Vintage phone? How dare you. It be the latest in flipability, Betty's top o'the line, and it came with recipes.


----------



## Flanderian

The gentleman is displaying his kitchen clocks sized sundial, for which I do not care, but *very much* like his barleycorn tweed!


----------



## Peak and Pine

...in a heartbeat, if I had an extra $3,300 laying around.
Ralph Lauren, current offering.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Super nice. Norfolk details with a shirt style neck. Mammoth buttons are so much easier to maneuver.


----------



## Peak and Pine

I like three button jackets with the top two done up. But if you're portly, and left your neck at home, maybe not such a swell look.


----------



## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> Super nice. Norfolk details with a shirt style neck. Mammoth buttons are so much easier to maneuver.
> 
> View attachment 83895


Absolutely. I hate trying to deal with tiny buttons on shirts. Yea, Duluth Trading! Man-size buttons on men's shirts.


----------



## Flanderian

*SPRINKLES!*

I have a problem with the snug fit and gorge height, but I do so love color. And after business clothing is perfect time to wear it.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

^^ Good length on the above, but the jacket's ill fitting. That or it's poorly fused.


----------



## Flanderian

Tweed reefer coat from Fox Brothers -


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 84020
> 
> 
> Nice!


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

It must be cold where he is.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> It must be cold where he is.


Baby, it's *cold* outside! 🥶


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Tweedlover

Oldsarge said:


> It must be cold where he is.


He lives in Oz.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

There's a correct name for this style of jacket, notable by its collar, that I understand to have originated in Spain, and which is popular there, but I cannot recall it with certainty. I seem to remember it being something like Ceba, but Google does not yield a confirming result.

Irrespectively, it's a handsome, unconstructed shirt-like jacket made from beautiful tweed by Fox Bothers -


----------



## Oldsarge

You came close. It's 'Teba'.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> You came close. It's 'Teba'.


Muchas gracias!


----------



## Peak and Pine

All of the above from...








...Caid, Japan.


----------



## Flanderian

Nice cloth!


----------



## Peak and Pine

.If you own no Harris Tweed, this is your starter jacket...


























Barley from Studio Suits, $335


----------



## Flanderian

Color him tweed! The shark of Portobello road -


----------



## Peak and Pine

Okay we get it, you like your Brunati tie. We see a lot of these golden large g'plaid jackets here, but another can't hurt.


----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 84476
> 
> 
> Okay we get it, you like your Brunati tie. We see a lot of these golden large g'plaid jackets here, but another can't hurt.




Way, way back in the good old days continuing my education at Penn State a very good friend of mine wore a Tweed Jacket almost identical to the one pictured, on a regular basis. Ironically, he too sported a goatee, as pictured above. Nice Jacket.


----------



## Flanderian

Tweed on tweed. Not an easy trick -


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine

^
Shots like the above tell little except color and texture. I prefer the whole thing, else just shoot it on the hanger. As is, the breast pocket looks stupidly large, but may not be if everything were shown.

Below, personal taste. Every item, and every item together, gets my were-I-twenty-five-years-younger stamp of extreme like.


































But wait, get a load of this, the menu for the above...


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


>


 ...and that's in 2013 dollars, pics from Esquire of that year.


----------



## ItalianStyle

Peak and Pine said:


> ...and that's in 2013 dollars, pics from Esquire of that year.


Still cheap compared to the lawsuit when that jacket button shoots out and hits someone in the eye...


----------



## Clintotron

eagle2250 said:


> Way, way back in the good old days continuing my education at Penn State a very good friend of mine wore a Tweed Jacket almost identical to the one pictured, on a regular basis. Ironically, he too sported a goatee, as pictured above. Nice Jacket.


My great uncle went to Penn State. He'd probably be in his 90's, if he were still alive.


----------



## Clintotron

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> Shots like the above tell little except color and texture. I prefer the whole thing, else just shoot it on the hanger. As is, the breast pocket looks stupidly large, but may not be if everything were shown.
> 
> Below, personal taste. Every item, and every item together, gets my were-I-twenty-five-years-younger stamp of extreme like.
> 
> View attachment 84602
> 
> View attachment 84603
> 
> View attachment 84604
> 
> View attachment 84605
> 
> 
> But wait, get a load of this, the menu for the above...
> 
> View attachment 84606


If my place of employment allowed me to grow facial hair, I'd look like this anytime I wasn't at work. As a rule, I have to wear flame retardant clothing, but I still try to keep it as stylish as possible (it's fairly cowboyed up).


----------



## Oldsarge

If I were in a job where I needed fire retardant clothing, 'manscaping' would seem like a prudent idea.


----------



## Clintotron

Oldsarge said:


> If I were in a job where I needed fire retardant clothing, 'manscaping' would seem like a prudent idea.


That would seem to be logical, but the phase of work that involves my presence is little-to-no risk of flash fire. But OSHA is OSHA.

It should be noted that my schedule is typically 8 on/6 off and by the time I've found my 6 off, my stubble is substantial and is not again addressed until the morning returning to my 8 stretch.


----------



## Oldsarge

I understand completely. I was a federal bureaucrat once.


----------



## Flanderian

The Tweed Shark - 











. . . . And the rest of the story -









JEEVES ( António Sérgio Rosa de Carvalho ) visits TOMMY PAGE , Amsterdam, wearing a tweed suit made by Tommy Page Mantique


In the past I introduced Tommy Page in Amsterdam in this ‘blog’: "TOMMY PAGE vintage mantique in Amsterdam. " https://tweedlandthegentlema...




tweedlandthegentlemansclub.blogspot.com


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 84625


He looks just like one of the tenors in church this morning.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Troones

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 84443
> 
> 
> .If you own no Harris Tweed, this is your starter jacket...
> 
> View attachment 84444
> 
> View attachment 84445
> 
> View attachment 84446
> 
> 
> Barley from Studio Suits, $335


I recall an older thread where several members complained about terrible quality from this brand. I can’t recall but I’m guessing at least five years ago. The reviews were pretty brutal and put me off purchasing from this store. I’m just wondering if there’s been any notable upgrades in quality or if there are any members with some positive reviews if recent purchases.


----------



## Flanderian

Troones said:


> I recall an older thread where several members complained about terrible quality from this brand. I can’t recall but I’m guessing at least five years ago. The reviews were pretty brutal and put me off purchasing from this store. I’m just wondering if there’s been any notable upgrades in quality or if there are any members with some positive reviews if recent purchases.


Brand?


----------



## Troones

Flanderian said:


> Brand?


to clarify, the complaints were about the quality of products at Studio Suits. Several well known and respected long time members chimed in. I’ll try to hunt down the thread from a few years ago.


----------



## Peak and Pine

_$215 from Studio Suits._

Troones, am unaware of any recent issues with this company. I quote merchant and price with postings because I am sometimes asked where stuff can be bought.


----------



## Flanderian

Troones said:


> to clarify, the complaints were about the quality of products at Studio Suits. Several well known and respected long time members chimed in. I’ll try to hunt down the thread from a few years ago.


Thanks! 

Which of the items are you referring to? Is it the coat above? I didn't/don't know its brand.


----------



## Troones

Flanderian said:


> Thanks!
> 
> Which of the items are you referring to? Is it the coat above? I didn't/don't know its brand.











Studio Suits


Studio Suits has been a sponsor here for a while. Do you have any constructive suggestions on their website or garments?




www.askandyaboutclothes.com





I hope that link works correctly as I’ve never done this via iPhone before. The above is one of a couple of threads I remember reading with less than stellar reviews. It’s older than I thought, going back to 2014. I’ll try to find the other one as well.


----------



## Flanderian

Troones said:


> Studio Suits
> 
> 
> Studio Suits has been a sponsor here for a while. Do you have any constructive suggestions on their website or garments?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.askandyaboutclothes.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope that link works correctly as I’ve never done this via iPhone before. The above is one of a couple of threads I remember reading with less than stellar reviews. It’s older than I thought, going back to 2014. I’ll try to find the other one as well.


Thanks.


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Oldsarge

the dark rust herringbones have me drooling all over my keyboard.


----------



## drpeter

Yes! That dark rust could be made up into a truly splendid jacket.


----------



## Flanderian

Polo sweater and tweed -


----------



## Peak and Pine

...from Ben Silver, $365, ouch.










...from EBay, new, $65, far less ouch (only 38" waist, in coffee, still available).


----------



## Oldsarge

38" is too tight, 40" falls off. I am an inconvenient size.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Oldsarge said:


> 38" is too tight, 40" falls off. I am an inconvenient size.


Have noticed that something resembling a lightning bolt in a shield appears in the bottom right of your avatar, while a star in a pie shaped circle appears in mine. Any idea what these mean?


----------



## drpeter

Peak and Pine said:


> Have noticed that something resembling a lightning bolt in a shield appears in the bottom right of your avatar, while a star in a pie shaped circle appears in mine. Any idea what these mean?


If you place your cursor on the lightning bolt/pie, it will say Premium Member. If that's not the answer, you have been targeted by the evil House of Harkkonen as part of a diabolical plot to control the known universe, and _inter alia_, AAAC.


----------



## Peak and Pine

drpeter said:


> If you place your cursor on the lightning bolt/pie, it will say Premium Member. If that's not the answer, you have been targeted by the evil House of Harkkonen as part of a diabolical plot to control the known universe, and _inter alia_, AAAC.


I got no stinking cursor. I have a finger. Any internet surfing or communicating done by me in the last three years has been done on a screen and keyboard that, taken together as I must, are smaller than an index card. A cell phone, my only conputer, my only access to the outside world. And it's quite amazing that I've been able to this, along with taking and posting three pics of myself along with a few mannequin and shoe shots, plus surfing and finding and posting hundreds of pics of tweed and illustrations and Lauren stuff all on something the size of a cigarette pack. Kudos to me. I also think I may be going blind.


----------



## drpeter

Oh, my dear Peaks, why can't you get an inexpensive laptop and avoid all this misery? Is there a problem with internet connections where you live, do you only have 4G cell connections (I never use my cell phone, except for road emergencies, or if I am about to die). Or maybe all this is by choice. Yes, kudos to you for these -- well, herculean -- efforts, LOL. Yes, it is quite conceivable that you could go blind. Where would we all be then, without your acerbic and iconoclastic presence in AAAC?


----------



## Flanderian




----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 84876


Nifty!


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## eagle2250

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 84907
> 
> View attachment 84908
> 
> View attachment 84909
> 
> View attachment 84910


I rather like shooting jacket designs and the jacket featured in your post is a particularly handsome tweed.


----------



## Flanderian

Cleaver's Closet -


----------



## Flanderian

An interesting jacket.  A tailored sport jacket with a shirt-like collar in sturdy weight Harris Tweed furnished from Fox Brothers -


----------



## Peak and Pine

^

Don't believe that's in the _sports jacket _ category. Four patch pockets with buttoning flaps plus adjustable sleeve cuffs usually denote outdoor wear.

Below, a current take (80/20 wool/poly) on an Edwardian style, with maybe a bit too much waist supression, unfortunately










I like that tho and would consider wearing similar. Were I still on the drink. Have never understood the scorn for a matching tie and square. Here, I think it provides good balance, and draws not undue attention to either.


----------



## John inSC

Great boots. Have been eyeballing a leather/tweed combo for some time now. Maybe some sales soon.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Remarkable pairings. Note the spread collar on a gingham shirt, giving a country shirt a formal send up. The first photograph uses different shades of just two colors to create a deep toned, multi color effect. No lover of pocket squares, but these, especially their folds, come without ostentation. The bottom one could pass as tie and square of same cloth, a frowned on look to many, passable to me.


----------



## Flanderian

Unlined (Unconstructed?) jacket. Looks to be summer tweed (Sung to the tune of _The Summer Wind_ by Sinatra! )


----------



## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Unlined (Unconstructed?) jacket. Looks to be summer tweed (Sung to the tune of _The Summer Wind_ by Sinatra! )
> 
> View attachment 84998
> 
> View attachment 84999


Good summery color, too.


----------



## Peak and Pine

^
That jacket is from Todd Snyder, 85 linen, 15 cotton, $700 and made mostly for youngin's who think short looks delicious. Here it is on someone, worn over what looks to be pajamas, but probably not...


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 85072


Priceless!


----------



## Flanderian

I dislike the extreme cut of this jacket, but love the tweed. It's the rare but very handsome diamond pattern.


----------



## Oldsarge

Agreed. I personally believe that tweed is a relaxed fabric, suitable for digging in the garden, smoking a pipe or petting a dog. It should always be cut in a relaxed manner and this jacket is completely inappropriate.


----------



## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> Agreed. I personally believe that tweed is a relaxed fabric, suitable for digging in the garden, smoking a pipe or petting a dog. It should always be cut in a relaxed manner and this jacket is completely inappropriate.


Too bad too, because I like/find interesting a number of the other styling details included; patch pockets, extend welt (Terminology?) on the pocket tops, one sleeve button. (A call to the ghost of Trad past.) But the antidote to shrinky-dink lapels isn't necessarily Godzilla lapels, and you're not supposed to look like a body builder when you're wearing your jacket. (You have to wait until you take it off! )


----------



## Peak and Pine




----------



## Peak and Pine

Wool, linen and a bit o'poly...


















...from Kaidutility.com, $295

I dipped the second picture in photo software, else you'd have gotten the site's original presentation...










...hey, why not just borrow some med school's skeleton and drape your stuff on that?


----------



## drpeter

In fact, Peaks, last fall around the time of Halloween, I was at a cardiac rehab facility where they did indeed have a full skeleton (cranium to metatarsals, the works) set up with a Halloween-style outift. I rather liked it. I told them I could get them some grim reaping equipment for the skeleton (you know, the odd scythe, black robe, etc.).


----------



## Peak and Pine

drpeter said:


> In fact, Peaks, last fall around the time of Halloween, I was at a cardiac rehab facility where they did indeed have a full skeleton (cranium to metatarsals, the works) set up with a Halloween-style outift. I rather liked it. I told them I could get them some grim reaping equipment for the skeleton (you know, the odd scythe, black robe, etc.).


In writing the caption for the above pic I toyed with,_ Hey, they dug up Annie Hall's corpse. _


----------



## Flanderian

I'd prefer a bit dressier polo, cashmere or wool, to cotton, but I've always liked polos with sport jackets, While when wearing polos casually I leave the top button undone, with jackets, I think it looks better buttoned.


----------



## drpeter

Peak and Pine said:


> In writing the caption for the above pic I toyed with,_ Hey, they dug up Annie Hall's corpse. _


Perfect!


----------



## Flanderian

Tweed, Saxony or Cheviot? Handsome cloth irrespectively. 

And well done generally. Fits OK, but another example of where a fashionable cut doesn't optimally flatter a particular physique. 

I'd describe this gentleman's physique as substantial. Nothing to suggest he's fat, but neither is he a typical ectomorph. But the product of a combination of fashionable elements of cut and fit conspire to make his physique look poorer than it should.

Notably, if the gorge and button stance were a bit lower, the jacket a tad looser and 1/2 to 3/4 inch longer, it would make a world of difference in lengthening and slimming his physique.


----------



## Peak and Pine

Flanderian said:


> I'd prefer a bit dressier polo, cashmere or wool, to cotton, but I've always liked polos with sport jackets.
> 
> View attachment 85168


Nice shoulders on the jacket. Roped, they seem to fit well.

0nce again though, the shot's too tight, giving only a half ass rendering of what the outfit's really like. If the polo is half sleeve, nothing will show at the cuff, so no, bad news. Nada on half sleeves under a jacket, especially under a hefty tweed. But we'll never know when the camera's only a foot away.

Below is something similar, also with a roped shoulder. The shot is very tight, but for a specific reason. This is me, and the shot is meant to show only the shoulders, square on. If you look closely you'll see white basting thread. This is a new shoulder, unpadded and roped. These photographs are process pics, taken for my use, so I can see what's what while work continues...










The pic below shows both shoulders. At screen left is the untouched original. It was too wide, and uninteresting. This pic tells me I need slight padding in the new shoulder, whereas it looked okay in the single shot.










The jacket is double breasted. Photographs were taken in February and it was very cold inside. What's underneath is a high necked cable cotton cardigan, with leather shoulders.


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## Peak and Pine

Flanderian said:


> ...well done generally. Fits OK, but another example of where a fashionable cut doesn't optimally flatter a particular physique.


I think the fit is amazing.



> ... if the gorge and button stance were a bit lower, the jacket a tad looser and 1/2 to 3/4 inch longer, it would make a world of difference in lengthening and slimming his physique.


???
Maybe the gentleman doesn't buy into the idea that cuts and patterns can make you look taller, shorter, fatter, thinner and is happy with his physique just the way it is in which case he and I are kin. I think the gorge, the button position, the girth and length are pretty much perfect. But I don't mean to suggest that I am right and Flanderian is wrong, just that our preferences are on full display here.

(The gentleman shown bears a strong resemblance to Wilhelm II, the last Kaiser.)🇺🇦

View attachment 85173

[/QUOTE]


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## Peak and Pine




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## Flanderian

Needs more patterns!


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## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


> Needs more patterns!
> View attachment 85194
> 
> 
> It would be even nicer without the white collar.


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## Flanderian

Was, of course, joking about needing more patterns. But I actually like the white collar with this ensemble. Once had a check tweed my tailor made for me, and thought it looked very nice with the right white collared shirt and right tie. I think the grass green stripe gives the shirt a more casual lean.


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## Peak and Pine

...posted for presentation, lighting and photography. Trifecta win. And the clothes, they decline well: smooth, smoothy, smoothest.


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## Flanderian




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## Peak and Pine

I would wear that, and make the villagers call me Bwana.


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## Flanderian




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## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 85211
> 
> 
> I would wear that, and make the villagers call me Bwana.


Really suitable for the Highlands of Ethiopia or the Drakensbergs.


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## drpeter

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 85211
> 
> 
> I would wear that, and make the villagers call me Bwana.


LOL. It might be a little too warm to wear that jacket in the climes where such villagers reside (Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda, etc.). A khaki drill jacket in this same design, on the other hand, would be just the ticket.


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## Flanderian




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## drpeter

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 85240


Beautiful!


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## Peak and Pine




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## Flanderian




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## Clintotron

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 85272


This reminds me of Darrell Hammond's portrayal of Sean Connery in SNL's Celebrity Jeopardy skits. It's definitely not a bad look.


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## Flanderian




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## Flanderian




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## Peak and Pine

^
The above is a good look if you're fat and wanna look fatter. Vertical lines in plaid don't stay vertical when they follow the curves of a big belly. The vest buttons at the point the jacket probably should. The lapels could be shutters on your cabin and the colors resemble the Thanksgiving mashed recently found in the back of the fridge. The shot is too tight to give true meaning to its complete uglyness. We should have a thread for laughable tweeds.

Because I like bold plaids, but not of bed spread dimensions, below is something that includes taste as well as fit.


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## drpeter

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> The above is a good look if you're fat and wanna look fatter. Vertical lines in plaid don't stay vertical when they follow the curves of a big belly. The vest buttons at the point the jacket probably should. The lapels could be shutters on your cabin and the colors resemble the Thanksgiving mashed recently found in the back of the fridge. The shot is too tight to give true meaning to its complete uglyness. We should have a thread for laughable tweeds.
> 
> Because I like bold plaids, but not of bed spread dimensions, below is something that includes taste as well as fit.
> 
> View attachment 85312


This is one lovely jacket. Where can I find one, Peaks? And who made it, pray?


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## Flanderian




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## Peak and Pine

^
You posted that same pic last Friday. It hasn't changed, pretty standard stuff though guy looks better there than he did in that plaid mess a couple pics up. But he still loves the elephantine lapels.

Fresh pic, my kinda outfit...


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## Peak and Pine

drpeter said:


> This is one lovely jacket. Where can I find one, Peaks? And who made it, pray?


From Ben Silver. No longer offered.


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## Oldsarge

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> You posted that same pic last Friday. It hasn't changed, pretty standard stuff though guy looks better there than he did in that plaid mess a couple pics up. But he still loves the elephantine lapels.
> 
> Fresh pic, my kinda outfit...
> View attachment 85328


Normally I don't favor three piece ensembles that cut you in half. I think the trousers and vest should match, not the coat and vest. That being said, this is one fine assembly. I'd wear it.


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## Flanderian




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## Peak and Pine

Sleeves a little tight for a jacket of this style, waist a bit nipped. Otherwise, step right up.


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## moon121

Beautiful collection


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## Flanderian




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## Peak and Pine

^
Jacket drapes like cardboard. You keep posting that same guy over and over, the guy who wore this treasure from a few posts back...










Free country, carry on.


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## Peak and Pine

Tweed flat cap
I would like to have a cap like this. I suppose it would be called a flat cap even though it's not very flat which is what I like about it since most appear too small, like the ones a poster here regularly wears that look like a slice of pizza on his head. This one though, she has the loft. The fluff. The slouch. And you can carry stuff up in there...




















Below, a couple that are okay, just okay, left one too small. Right one passable.











I need this one, on the right...but not for $150.











I bought a slouchy one on line last May. Still not enough room up attic. I tried to balloon it up by freeing it from the bill, but the indelible crease line shows. I will figure something out someday.


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## Tweedlover

Peak and Pine said:


> Tweed flat cap
> I would like to have a cap like this. I suppose it would be called a flat cap even though it's not very flat which is what I like about it since most appear too small, like the ones a poster here regularly wears that look like a slice of pizza on his head. This one though, she has the loft. The fluff. The slouch. And you can carry stuff up in there...
> 
> View attachment 85429
> 
> 
> View attachment 85430
> 
> 
> 
> Below, a couple that are okay, just okay, left one too small. Right one passable.
> 
> View attachment 85431
> 
> 
> 
> I need this one, on the right...but not for $150.
> 
> 
> View attachment 85432
> 
> 
> I bought a slouchy one on line last May. Still not enough room up attic. I tried to balloon it up by freeing it from the bill, but the indelible crease line shows, see...
> View attachment 85433
> 
> 
> I will figure something out someday.


True, your crease line does detract. I'm not too into "poofy" caps but I know what you mean about some flat caps looking too small on the head. I do have and enjoy the couple of flat caps I have, but 1 has to choose wisely as to what looks apt on one's noggin.


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## Flanderian




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## Peak and Pine

Don't particularly like the following, because of its butchering of a favorite style, but offer it for your consideration...










The peak lapel is unusual and negates the opportunity to button this sort of jacket high against inclemency. While a flap on a breast pocket can be hacked forward, looks off on a patch pocket. But props to the red headed guy for choosing a tie to match...


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## Flanderian




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## Flanderian




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## Flanderian




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## ItalianStyle

Not sure about the knitted potholder in the pocket...


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## Oldsarge

Me, either.


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## Flanderian

ItalianStyle said:


> Not sure about the knitted potholder in the pocket...





Oldsarge said:


> Me, either.


Essential! You're sauteing your garlic, not minding your skillet, and this is the only thing that can save your ***!










Though it doesn't bother me nearly as much as that felt flower. 🤢


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## Vecchio Vespa

Flanderian said:


> Essential! You're sauteing your garlic, not minding your skillet, and this is the only thing that can save your ***!
> 
> View attachment 85661
> 
> 
> Though it doesn't bother me nearly as much as that felt flower. 🤢


But his granddaughter made it for him at pre-school. He HAS to wear it.


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## Flanderian

Vecchio Vespa said:


> But his granddaughter made it for him at pre-school. He HAS to wear it.


I don't care! It looks like a dog biscuit with a pimento on it!


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## Flanderian

OK, I know it could likely be called hopsack, and probably is, but the yarn definitely has a tweed-like character, so I'm going to call it summer tweed as it looks to have linen as a significant constituent. But what a magnificent suit it has been made into! 😍


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## Peak and Pine

^
I like both the suit and the way it's been presented, with a variety of shots showing the full suit and tight shots for texture, color and weave. Quality post.


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## Peak and Pine




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## drpeter

Flanderian said:


> OK, I know it could likely be called hopsack, and probably is, but the yarn definitely has a tweed-like character, so I'm going to call it summer tweed as it looks to have linen as a significant constituent. But what a magnificent suit it has been made into! 😍
> View attachment 85664
> 
> View attachment 85665
> 
> View attachment 85666
> 
> View attachment 85667


Isn't this cloth best described as a basket-weave?


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## Flanderian

drpeter said:


> Isn't this cloth best described as a basket-weave?


Hopsack by definition is a basket-weave.


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## Flanderian




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## Peak and Pine




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## StephenRG

Peak and Pine said:


> View attachment 85768
> 
> View attachment 85769


The pattern is tweed-like but I wonder whether they are in fact tweed. They look more like a linen blend to me.


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## Flanderian

StephenRG said:


> The pattern is tweed-like but I wonder whether they are in fact tweed. They look more like a linen blend to me.


If you're referring to the DB suit I posted, I think it most definitely has linen as a constituent fiber of the yarn. Could be linen and silk, or linen, wool and silk. Such blends have been marketed as "summer tweeds" for some time, though technically, I don't believe they are tweeds. Definitely a hopsack, but with a tweedy feel.


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## Flanderian




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## Peak and Pine

^ Gawd no.



Flanderian said:


> If you're referring to the DB suit I posted, etc.


He's not. The quoted material is from me.


StephenRG said:


> The pattern is tweed-like but I wonder whether they are in fact tweed. They look more like a linen blend to me.


You could be right, especially as the arm in pic #2 is holding wrinkles while at rest.


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## Flanderian




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## Flanderian




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## Peak and Pine




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## Flanderian




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## Oldsarge

Oh, very Christmasy!


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## Flanderian




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## Flanderian




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## Oldsarge




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## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 86066


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## Flanderian




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## Peak and Pine

Studio Suits, $350. Alas, sold out.


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## Flanderian




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## Peak and Pine

^
Crazy wide lapels, second story gorge, corkscrew sleeve, and a breast pocket big enough to jam in a Big Mac, poor lighting, photography and sameness of pose, that's Frankfort Fred, or something like that, from Germany and an apparent favorite of Flanders, having featured him in his last dozen posts. Color subtlety and tailored fit, not this guy's strong suit and from the always twisted upper sleeve it's fairly obvious these are hand held selfies. You get all dolled up to show yourself off to the internet universe and you do it via a selfie? I'm going to have to pass on this thread until Flanders gets this guy out of his system.


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## Flanderian




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## Tweedlover

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 86241


Been a long time since I've seen a photo of Ralph all dressed up.


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## Flanderian

"Nice jacket!" - _Harvey_


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## Flanderian




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## Flanderian




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## Flanderian




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## Flanderian




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## Flanderian




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## Flanderian




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## Flanderian




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## Flanderian




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## Flanderian




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## Flanderian




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## Oldsarge




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## Flanderian




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## Flanderian




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## Flanderian




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## Flanderian




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## Flanderian




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## Flanderian




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## Flanderian

DB jacket of Fox Brothers tweed -


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## Oldsarge

Yes, oh yes, oh YES!


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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge




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## Flanderian

Ciardi Tailoring, Naples


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## Flanderian

Tweed keeps you warm, and makes you look good.


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## Flanderian




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## Oldsarge




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## Troones

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 87194
> 
> [/QUOTE





Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 87194


Unbelievable. I have that identical jacket. I purchased it from Brooks Brothers about five or six years ago. I’ll post a pic tomorrow with the rest of that ensemble.


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## Troones

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 87194


Same jacket! (lower quality everything else) just for a laugh….


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## Flanderian

When it's summer in the U.S., it's winter elsewhere -


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## Oldsarge




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## Flanderian

Great tweed coat! The ensemble is not my style, but I think it may be his!


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## Corcovado

Flanderian said:


> View attachment 86647


That necktie is great too.


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## Tweedlover

Now that we're deeply ensconced into 100 degree weather here, think I'm already wanting a return to fall and tweed weather.


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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge




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## Troones

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 87643


Still laughing at this one. 😆. The look on that doggie’s face. He’s in on the joke!


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## Oldsarge




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## drpeter

Oh Sarge, this is so tempting. I love that horse blanket tweed in the top photograph -- any idea what company makes it? I like the bike too, but that's for the Bike Forum (of which I am a member, LOL).


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## Oldsarge

drpeter said:


> Oh Sarge, this is so tempting. I love that horse blanket tweed in the top photograph -- any idea what company makes it? I like the bike too, but that's for the Bike Forum (of which I am a member, LOL).


O'Connell's has one very similar though more in browns than blues. This particular image I traced down the parisgentleman.com though from the image I'd swear it was Ralph Lauren. Best of luck.


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## drpeter

Thanks, Sarge. I'll check it out.


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## fishertw

I bought a brown Harris Tweed herringbone similar to the one above from Ben Silver about 15 years ago when they were still carrying 3/2 roll jackets. It was a very heavy tweed and I ultimately sent it on as I was reducing inventory a couple of years ago. It was actually too warm to wear in most normal North Carolina environments.


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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge

I am so ready for autumn!


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## Vecchio Vespa

Oldsarge said:


> I am so ready for autumn!
> 
> View attachment 89442
> 
> 
> View attachment 89443
> 
> 
> View attachment 89444
> 
> View attachment 89445


 So am I. Just three or four more months to go. I wonder what day it will be?


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## Flanderian

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 88936
> 
> 
> View attachment 88938


  



Vecchio Vespa said:


> So am I. Just three or four more months to go. I wonder what day it will be?


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## Oldsarge

Flanderian said:


>


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## Oldsarge




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## eagle2250

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 90929


Jeez Louise. That good looking guy in the picture above ties a better Bowtie than I seem to be able to manage.


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## Adriel Rowley

I been pondering a thought, when is it socially appropriate to wear tweed?

Labor Day traditionally been the marker for start of Fall in clothing, so does this include tweed?

If it is Labor Day, can tweed be worn the day before for attending church?

Hopefully folks don't take this too serious, I recently had the opportunity to go over to storage and brought back my tweeds, sadly a few I no longer fit due to PT strengthening my back (I rather have the significant pain reduction), and itching to wear one, especially since can get chilly in church.


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## Oldsarge

My belief is that as soon as it's cool enough to be comfortable in tweed, it's time to put them on. I rather intend to wear some of mine to church tomorrow.


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## ran23

and today was 105. Keeping my white denim and seersucker out.


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## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> My belief is that as soon as it's cool enough to be comfortable in tweed, it's time to put them on. I rather intend to wear some of mine to church tomorrow.


Comfortable outside or inside?

I did too, wore Opa's donegal as lighter color and somewhat lighter weight, looks lighter weight as dense and smoother finish. Daithi and I got over stimulated and I forgot a picture.


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## Adriel Rowley

ran23 said:


> and today was 105. Keeping my white denim and seersucker out.


About that here too. However, I have absolutely no denim and the only seersucker is a bathrobe.


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## Oldsarge

ran23 said:


> and today was 105. Keeping my white denim and seersucker out.


In heat like that I just stay inside in the AC.


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## drpeter

ran23 said:


> and today was 105. Keeping my white denim and seersucker out.


Wouldn't denim be too hot?


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## ran23

White denim looks the part, it is only a 3 mile morning walk.


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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge




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## Sam Hober

"My belief is that as soon as it's cool enough to be comfortable in tweed, it's time to put them on..."

I agree with Old Sarge's thoughts - sadly where I live it is almost never tweed season - I still have hopes and keep a couple in the closet...


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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge




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## Troones

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 91328


I’ve been away from this thread for too long. I wore pretty much this identical jacket last week to meet the entire leadership team of the company I work for. Similar buttons and everything. My jacket features unearned light tan elbow patches though. I know that’s somewhat looked down here.


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## Leonard

Some of the outfits shown here are great. If only we all had a body like a model, we could look like this, too!


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## The Great Garbanzo

I have a body like a model...a model Sherman tank.

Closed up the cottage for the winter, a month earlier than normal.

Took these back home....sigh.


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## Oldsarge

Tartan and tweed


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## Oldsarge




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## some_dude

The whole point of tweed is for when you have a body like a portly middle aged British business man!



Leonard said:


> Some of the outfits shown here are great. If only we all had a body like a model, we could look like this, too!


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## Oldsarge

some_dude said:


> The whole point of tweed is for when you have a body like a portly middle aged British business man!


Or a well-fed British country landowner. Scots, too.


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## Oldsarge




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## William Kazak

Oldsarge said:


> Beautiful collection of colors, textures and patterns but an unbuttoned OCBD? Really?


I did not care for the sweater being unbuttoned like that.


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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge

The jacket is nice but the shirt and PS, not so much!


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## Troones

Oldsarge said:


> The jacket is nice but the shirt and PS, not so much!
> 
> View attachment 92767


Points for matching the pocket square to the shirt instead of the tie. Same points removed for matching it to this particular shirt!


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## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge

Maybe in a year or so I'll get one like this.


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## some_dude

I'd like to have a full tweed suit, but not sure I can quite pull it off.


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## Charles Dana

some_dude said:


> I'd like to have a full tweed suit, but not sure I can quite pull it off.


No problem; that’s what girlfriends are for.


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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge




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## Oldsarge




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## Adriel Rowley

Tweed for the Christmas Eve Service. Friend came early so picture isn't great, though you get the idea. Stopped in to say Merry Christmas to you all!


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## Oldsarge

And Merry Christmas to you, too.


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## Adriel Rowley

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 93290


No clue what is going on with the too high waistcoat, exposing the shirt and worse a belt, of the lad on the left, one on the right seems to have it together. Both fabrics are beautiful and make, or would make, good suits (technically the one on the left isn't a suit).


----------



## Adriel Rowley

Last Sunday I forgot to post, so get a twofer. 

By the way, feels great fitting the tweeds prior couldn't.

For Christmas morning service, a tweed suit, a cotton waistcoat (only one I have, got a comment my knitwear was covering so much of theta wasn't noticeable), over a mint green OCBD from Proper Cloth, and Dad's Christmas tie.









And this Sunday, the last Sunday before Christmas ends. Went somewhat casual. Been raining for several hours, not let up, so wore Dad's overcoat.


----------



## radishio

After drooling all over these pictures I'd really really like to get a full 3 piece tweed suit but not sure where (tweed separates are much easier of course).
I know of Peter Christian, Cordings, what else? Even J. Press doesn't make full suits as far as I can see. 
There seems to be a lot of "made in China" tweed suits on the web but I am unsure of the quality.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Oldsarge

radishio said:


> After drooling all over these pictures I'd really really like to get a full 3 piece tweed suit but not sure where (tweed separates are much easier of course).
> I know of Peter Christian, Cordings, what else? Even J. Press doesn't make full suits as far as I can see.
> There seems to be a lot of "made in China" tweed suits on the web but I am unsure of the quality.


There's always Divijbespoke.com. MTM is a bit pricy but his range of tweeds will have you drooling for hours and hours.


----------



## Oldsarge




----------



## Troones

^ I wore a very similar jacket this week to the office (elbow patches and all.) I skipped the sweater around the neck though. 🙃


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## William Kazak

I had one like that when I was younger. Not my colors now. Tweed is not really in my closet now but I have wool double and single breasted navy blazers, also one in camel colored wool and I have two linen blazers. Oh, I just remembered my Armani Jeans brand tweed that I got at Goodwill a couple of years ago. I can wear a wool Shetland with that because it is roomy. Nice selection for me. The thing is to go somewhere and wear them.


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## Vecchio Vespa

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 93950


I have one much like it but without the elbow patches. It is an old 3 roll








2 Chipp. It has a throat latch, great for cold days. I love all of my jackets, but this one holds a special place.


----------

