# My Trip to Allen Edmonds a.k.a. The CEO Factory Tour



## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

Gentlemen (and there may be a few ladies here as well so I want to include them): Like many of you, I have a very indulgent spouse. She puts up with my endless discussions of style points and obsessive compulsive nature with regard to my clothing. On some wreckless occasions she even indulges these peculiarities. This year she offhandedly asked me what I would like for Father's Day and my brithday. I said I wanted only one thing - "I want a pair of special order Allen Edmonds Mora's in Merlot with a combination heel." Her response, "Really, is that all?" Now she knows enough about me that 1) nothing else is going to fit the bill and 2) it has to be exact. She agreed--or relented I can't remember how much arm twisting I needed to do.:icon_smile_big:

Anyway, I called Brenda Depies in Customer Service at Allen Edmonds, and we began working on the order. As we spoke, she gave me her full attention and didn't hurry me. She answered all my questions. I felt like the guy in the credit card commercial, how about this? Yes. How about that? Yes. Finally, "Gerard, you can have your shoes any way we offer shoes. Any soles with any heels any color." Now confusion set in. I was sure about the merlot, but I really like the walnut. CHOICES, ugh. "I will send you both samples," came the response. They came in the mail with the special order form. Brenda and I exchanged e-mails, and then I sent the form in sticking with my original choice. The double monkstrap Mora in Merlot with the combination heel.

Then, as I am want to do, I got to thinking--some may view this as the point where danger enters the thread--"hey, Paul Grangaard, AE CEO, is an AAAC member and :idea::idea::idea: maybe I could get myself a factory tour out of this. Better yet, maybe I could go up and see _my_ shoes being made. So one night, while inbibing a nice red with my wife--Barbera not Merlot--I got my courage up and shot Paul a message. I explained to him that I had just placed the order, and I would really like to see them being made. I quickly got a response back--"Absolutely. We would love to have you"--quite obviously he doesn't know me.:icon_smile:

After this exchange, Brenda contacted me and arranged the details. Despite being an attorney, most of my professional life has been working for U.S. manfucaturing companies. I love to see the processes and enjoy the making of the product as much as, in this case, the wearing of the product. What follows, and I wll post this over the next few days, is my journey through the 280 - 290 steps of watching my special order shoes being made. To all of the AAAC members here, I hope this is entertaining and --as it was for me--educational. I also hope you stick around because I am going to show you some new shoes that AE has coming out this fall and I believe these are the first pics here of those. Enjoy!

Tuesday, morning my son (because he always wanted to go watch shoes being made--yeah, right) and we get to Port Washington WI and see our first glimpse of Mecca. :icon_smile_wink:










After getting through reception, we met the lovely Brenda.

Allen Edmonds had made up the tops of the shoes prior to our getting there. Brenda had those plus my special order paperwork. 









I can tell you all of the customer service people are very nice and very well versed in their shoes. They don't look like much here--but wait.










What I didn't know is the shoes actually begin wiht the footbed. Hmm. Also, take a look at the inside of the leather top. It is (I believe the correct word is scived) conditioned for manufacturing and the wearer's comfort.


















I think Brenda was begining to get wary of me--but a woman who knows this much about men's shoes is special. :icon_smile_wink:

Brenda is saved by the appearance of the CEO, Paul Grangaard.









The tour begins. Although I don't have a picture of him at the beginig of the tour, Jim Kass, VP of Operations joined us as we moved through his operation. Jim is very knowledegable. He has been with AE for 17 years and he has worked his way through the organization from sales. Jim is as passionate as all of us about shoes and his knowledge is outstanding. Besides all that, he is a great guy who just wants his customers to be happy.

The tour begins with my son by my side.










Allend Edmonds rolled out the red carpet. The big screen, which shows the shoes they are making in the different manufacturing cells, flashed the company's core values, and then a special message of welcome.


















Yes. Paul is a very tall guy. He is also a very inteligent and committed businessman. He is passionate about Allen Edmonds manufacturing in the U.S. and making a quality product. He kept saying to me --"Gerard, we are committed to providing the exact same quality as we did when the company was started." Clearly some of the manufacturing methods have changed, but the processes have not. The changes are always aimed at making a more repeatable process, and, therefore, delivering a higher quality product.

This is all I can do for today. Tomorrow I will really post much more of the manufacturing of my shoes. Two things really stick out: 1) The shoes are "machine made" but the amount of labor, actual hand labor, is very high and the workers are extremely skilled. 2) Paul, Jim and Brenda really gave me their time I was struck by how willing they were to just talk. See you tomorrow.


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## LeicaLad (Nov 5, 2006)

A wonderful post. Please keep adding!


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## jst (Oct 22, 2008)

Really very interesting post. I start to think about buying AE shoes ......


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## Preu Pummel (Feb 5, 2008)

This is going to be good.

Thanks for documenting the place and procedure!


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## Roikins (Mar 22, 2007)

Wow, what a great start... I can't wait to read the updates. I have a few A-E shoes, but all bought RTW. I actually didn't know about their customization program, being so wrapped-up in going after bespoke shoes and such; I definitely have to look into it.


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

The AE Holtons I'm wearing have just clicked their heels in delight with all this. Thanks, Gerard.​


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## 127.72 MHz (Feb 16, 2007)

Very Cool GMan!

Even though I can't be there to watch my new shell cordovan "Sheltons" come off the line now I can imagine the process.

I'm looking forward to more pictures.

Thank you.


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## Lawrence Connor (Jan 20, 2009)

I know this may or may not relate to your shoes from them,
because I don't know if you are having calfskin or cordovan
made for your *AE* shoes, but this video is still about shoes
made at *AE*. It starts at Horween and then it goes on to *AE*.






It has been posted before, but I thought this a good place to post it, too.


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## Kingstonian (Dec 23, 2007)

Interesting that AE spell 'shoe centre' the English way. 

It seems a modern factory compared to Northampton's Victorian buildings.

The double monk is one of their better-looking shoes along with cordovan longwing and blucher.

It is good to support your home factories if you can. AE and Alden do not have much of a presence in the UK market.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

Lawrence Connor said:


> I know this may or may not relate to your shoes from them,
> because I don't know if you are having calfskin or cordovan
> made for your *AE* shoes, but this video is still about shoes
> made at *AE*. It starts at Horween and then it goes on to *AE*.
> ...


Excellent video. No my shoes are not Cordovan, they are calf. The video shows much of the process the shoes go through. It also shoes you why cordovan cost so much more--the yield is very poor per animal. I will post more the pics tomorrow. You will see those (my son thought they looked like turtles, so we began calling them turtles) turtles turn into real shoes. By the way the guy in the video is Jim Kass and he really is very passionate about his shoes. More tomorrow.

Edit: Thanks for the kind comments everyone. I had a great time at the factory and I believe Paul and Jim have a great deal of respect for the views of the people here at AAAC. From begining to end the experience was great, Brenda, Jim and Paul treated me as if I was the only customer they had.


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## Preu Pummel (Feb 5, 2008)

Kingstonian said:


> Interesting that AE spell 'shoe centre' the English way.


The USA goes through these odd periods of "Britification". We, some dominant segment of the country, seems to want a return to or affectation of British English. When I was in early grade school (70's), they were teaching us to spell words in the British manner: colour, etc. In the mid-70's there was also a push to the old colonial/British affectations for our bicentennial. The 80's had some er/re reworkings on businesses, presumably to give class or style.

I have no idea when or why AE did that spelling, but it isn't completely uncommon in America.


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## DRIB (Dec 10, 2008)

I am giddy!!! Thanks G-Man for taking us along for the ride.


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## rbstc123 (Jun 13, 2007)

Excellent thread. Excellent!
I look forward to Part II.
The video is excellent as well.


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## 127.72 MHz (Feb 16, 2007)

Kingstonian said:


> Interesting that AE spell 'shoe centre' the English way.
> 
> It seems a modern factory compared to Northampton's Victorian buildings.
> 
> ...


Sadly for us Americans the British have more of their shoes industry left than we have of ours. Allen Edmonds and to much smaller degree, (in terms of output) Alden are all we really have left. Oh there's Weinbrenner, (sp?) and a few other small factories but it's just these two in the U.S.

It's a good thing that narrow shoes are scarce in the British market or I'd have already have been on a shoe buying junket to Northhampton.

Looking forward to updates Gman.


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## Andy (Aug 25, 2002)

WOW!!

Excellent report! THANK YOU gman-17! You really know how to utilize your contacts and Ask Andy is proud to have you and Paul as members of our little group.

I especially enjoyed the Welcome sign! I'm so impressed with both of you that I put a link and photo on the Home Page!!

And my deepest and most appreciative compliments to your wife! You have one of a kind there - take very good care of her!


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## Jaxson613 (Oct 17, 2008)

That last (108) looks great! It sent me scrambling to the AE website, but it's nowhere to be found. Is it only available with a custom order?


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## deanayer (Mar 30, 2008)

DRIB said:


> I am giddy!!! Thanks G-Man for taking us along for the ride.


+1 !!! hehehee

I just thought this would make a great episode for "how its made" on the science/discovery channel and I am just the pest to call them up and nag them to visit AE and then I find that they are doing an episode July 13th that covers leather shoes (which they never covered before) and I dont know what company they are highlighting but I do know that they wont bother to repeat a manufactured item so its too damn late evidently...dang ! That would have been some good exposure for AE. I wonder if their marketing folks tried getting on that show?


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## brokencycle (Jan 11, 2008)

Good choice in shoes. I have the Moras in dark brown. I heard from Adam at Brookfield, that this fall more timeless classics are coming and that means more burgandy shoes.


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## MotelHound (Mar 23, 2009)

deanayer said:


> +1 !!! hehehee
> 
> I just thought this would make a great episode for "how its made" on the science/discovery channel and I am just the pest to call them up and nag them to visit AE and then I find that they are doing an episode July 13th that covers leather shoes (which they never covered before) and I dont know what company they are highlighting but I do know that they wont bother to repeat a manufactured item so its too damn late evidently...dang ! That would have been some good exposure for AE. I wonder if their marketing folks tried getting on that show?


I believe they were already featured on a Made in America show with that guy from Cheers. This would have been a couple of years ago. My son wanted to watch the Caterpillar tractors being made and AE was on the same episode.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

Andy said:


> WOW!!
> 
> Excellent report! THANK YOU gman-17! You really know how to utilize your contacts and Ask Andy is proud to have you and Paul as members of our little group.
> 
> ...


My wife just told me the world needs more indulgent wives--yes, she's a keeper.

Andy, I speak for many here, thanks for hosting us. To paraphrase Richard Gere in an Officer and A Gentlemen--we got nowhere else to go. We are all indebted to you.

The visit with Paul and team was more than I thought it would be. He is a gracious host and the legendary customer service obviously starts at the top.

Again, thanks for hosting us.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

brokencycle said:


> Good choice in shoes. I have the Moras in dark brown. I heard from Adam at Brookfield, that this fall more timeless classics are coming and that means more burgandy shoes.


Adam is a top notch guy. I will post some "new" pics in my final installment on Monday which I think will get quite a few folks here very excited. Let me just hang this little curveball out there -- Allen Edmonds with a European flair but they are completely recraftable. Hmm. Yes. I am enjoying this.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^
Indeed, your pictorial chronology of the "birth" of your Mora's has the potential to become one of those classic threads, to which so many of us find ourselves drawn to, repeatedly! Thanks.


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## dks202 (Jun 20, 2008)

*edmonds*

Great story and especially the customer service! I am stuck on AE shoes myself,


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## upr_crust (Aug 23, 2006)

*Sorry that I hadn't commented before, but . . .*

. . . it's been a great posting, and I can't wait to see the finished product, gman. Moras in merlot are a great idea.

You certainly got the VIP tour with this!


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

*Manufacture*

Guys,

Thanks again for all the positive responses. I was concerned people might find the thread self-indulgent, but I really wanted to share my experience. Everyone here is slightly OCD about some aspect--or maybe their entire--wardrobe. Not everyone has endless sums of money, but I believe we are all united by the bond of wanting to look our best within our means. One thing is really clear, Paul understands his job is to maintain the relevance of AE in a changing world. Paul has set out to challenge the Allen Edmonds staff as well, and you will see he is getting them to do new things while sustaining their committment to customer service and quality. I believe guys like Jim, who are smart, dynamic and full of passion for his job, have been set free under his leadership. I am glad that I can help tell this story.

When we last left our dynamic duo of Paul and Jim we were about to walk the factory and watch my shoes being made. I am going to try and write as little as possible and let the pictures do the talking. Paul--I am sure you will see this as some point-- please don't hesitate to correct me if I make a miscue while going through the process. My only notes are the pictures I took.










The shoes start with the footbed and the last--or the bones as they are called.

They come out to the workers on mechanically operated bins--like inventory carousels--and you need a left and a right, of course.









Yes, my son and I did get to pick them. :icon_smile_big:








Footbed and last attached.

By the way, Jim told me the secret to shoe making and its real simple: Pressure, Water, Heat and Time. I don't know why everyone can't do it.

Then you start forming the top part of the shoe--remember heat, pressure and water.










Heel crimp.









Forming the front part of the shoes. My son and I got to push the buttons and make the machines work--not sure who is the twelve year old here.

Ouch oooch that's hot.

Hot glue--before the shoe and foot bed are sewn together they are glued so they stay in their correct places.










Next I am going to take a bit of a break from my shoes to show you a bit of the manufacture of their new Presidio.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

*New Allend Edmonds Shoes*

One of the neat things about Allen Edmonds shoes is their "recraftability." For those of us who have taken advantage of this process, you already "know." For those of you who are not privy, let me put it in its simplest form. You send in your old shoes and you give AE around $90.00 (give or take) and they give you what you swear are completely new shoes. I am not kidding. You're gonna think they pulled a fast one on you--or maybe that you pulled a fast one on them--and you are going to say "hey, these are new shoes." Well, in the past Allen Edmonds has focused on 360 degree welting and leather soles. Paul has pushed his team and the new line of shoes (called the Executive Collection) including the Presidio which is 270 degree welted and, most importantly, recrafatable.

Here is a compelted shoe--I stole this picture from Paul's signature. I, for some unexplainable reason, did not get a picture of the completed shoe--though both Paul and Jim were wearing them.










This is a great looking shoe and here are the uppers being made:









Leathers being cut--she was very worried about her hair as I took a picture. Smiles were easily coaxed.










I am pretty sure this is the infamous black footbed. Paul really wants everyone to know he is concerned about maintaining quality, and he is personally committed to ensuring it remains a lasting part of the product. He takes each of the knocks quite personally--I liked that.










Machine made--yes (but with lot's of hand made love). This is not easy work, and this woman was concentrating in a way that I cannot. She probably made the shoes I was wearing. 









They hammer the leather flat so it can be sewn properly.



















I am leaving out much of the detail to the steps, but it is important to realize how much cutting, sewing and pressing goes into creating a unique look. The decorative seams that you see on the top of the Presidio are sewn in by a worker guiding the leather through the sewing machine--sounds easy. Then you realize it has to be tight, sleek, well aligned and match up with the rest of the shoe--most important it has to be aesthetically pleasing. No, I didn't try to do it--I have trouble pouring coffee without spilling it. The white material is added to the leather to help control moisture in the shoes (I believe it is cotton) and prevent squeaking.

What you end up with is this. Which is where my shoes started.










The importance of the 270 degree welt is simple. Paul and team realized their lace ups look great, but they wanted a sleeker look, particularly for the slip-on such as the Presidio. This allows them to do that, but remember it is recraftable.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

*BAck to my Moras*

Starting to look like shoes.










More liquids and heat.










Now some color and finish.










Some buffing and polishing.



















Starting to get some life.










The upper and the footbed are now sewn together. Notice the upper now has plastic on it to protect it the rest of the way through the process. This is good, because my son got a little jumpy with the edge dressing and Jim had to fire him on his first day of work. :icon_smile_big:










If you know Allen Edmonds, you know this next step--the Hot Cork.:icon_smile_wink:



















Well the hot cork had to cool and we were getting hungry from a morning of hard work. :icon_smile: We had the unexpected pleasure of being taken to lunch by Paul and Jim. Thanks guys! :icon_smile_big:

First, a stop by the CEO's palatial office. Paul sits in a cube? Yes, he does - out on the floor with his team. :icon_smile_wink:










Now here's a perk I would like to have. Paul changes his shoes, often--it's part of the job. Wear testing. If you look at the picture you can see an area I circled. These are the new Presidios. What you don't see is that there are two piles of shoes. This is the pile of shoes which have made the cut. The other pile is ones that don't pass the CEO test. That Presidio sure is sharp, and I sure am jealous. I think I am going to ask if I can get shoes as a part of my job. :icon_smile_big:

Next stop one of Paul's and Jim favorite area restaurants.










Finally Jim makes it into a picture. Jim is the face and voice on most of the videos. He is a super guy.

I told Paul the worst part about this pic is my pants pooling at the bottom--sorry guys.

I will finish this up tomorrow folks. Thanks for tuning in to our excellent shoe adventure.


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## LeicaLad (Nov 5, 2006)

Simply great. Makes me want to get in the car and drive there myself!!!


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## rbstc123 (Jun 13, 2007)

Part II was better than part one. 
I am assuming this is a trilogy and will sadly be concluded Part III.:icon_pale:
This is one of my favorite threads of all time.
Thanks G!


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## chuckie50 (Apr 16, 2008)

Thanks for this fantastic thread. Any idea on how much the Exexcutve Collection will cost?


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## 127.72 MHz (Feb 16, 2007)

Just the best GMan, Bravo.

One added note. Remember folks this is the same Allen Edmonds that many on this board have tried to pass off as a mass produced "Decent" shoe, but also one that's not in the same league as Alden,...

Mass produced verses Alden perhaps. But look at the amount of hand work and skill that goes into Allen Edmonds shoes! 

Things at the factory look slightly different than they did when I was graciously offered to watch my shoes come off the line several years ago. But it's also obvious that Allen Edmonds is truly a treasure in American manufacturing. 

As some of you may or may not know from my previous posts I have spent lot's of time on business in Wisconsin. It's a shame I don't have cause to still go from time to time. I would love to see one of the pair of custom "Shells" I've ordered come off the line. 

Looking forward to more.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

rbstc123 said:


> Part II was better than part one.
> I am assuming this is a trilogy and will sadly be concluded Part III.:icon_pale:
> This is one of my favorite threads of all time.
> Thanks G!


Yes. I will conclude the thread tomorrow--hopefully in the morning before I am off to work. I hope it will meet your expectations. I believe I have left some good things.

I truly appreciate your praise for the thread, but the subject matter is very interesting and easy to present.



chuckie50 said:


> Thanks for this fantastic thread. Any idea on how much the Exexcutve Collection will cost?


Great question, but I don't have that answer. I know that this is a recraftable product, so it would most likely price above the Cross-Towns, which are not. I don't know if they will be at the same price point as the Timeless Classics. I will let one small secret out of the bag today (not sure it really is a secret): Allen Edmonds will be introducing a number of shoes above the Timeless Classic line in price with--what I really want--combination heels. I have some pictures of those but you have to wait until tomorrow. I think you will like them.

Also, Bill, thanks very much for the kind words. Yes, I agree. I really believe Allen Edmonds suffers a little (in terms of image) because they produce a substantially greater number of shoes than Alden. In these fora, people have favorites and people have gone out of their way to spread rumors about Allen Edmonds--I cannot for the life of me understand why. We have two remaining shoe makers here in the U.S. I support both. I have Alden's as well as Allen Edmonds. I have substantially greater number of AE, but they have more styles. Paul and Jim are true gentlemen - they had plenty of chances to tear Alden down, but neither did and both acknowledged them to be a quality producer of shoes. That said, you could see that it really bothered them both when there was even the slightest suggestion the quality level has declined. The best thing I can say is they are both very heavily invested in terms of their hearts and . . . soles. (Pun intended)

My suggestion would be, to borrow a phrase from Spock, let's help them both to live long and prosper.

PS - I wish I were picking up a pair of Shells too :icon_smile_wink:


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## Mattdeckard (Mar 11, 2004)

We can't see the shoes Jim is wearing in that pic.


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## AllenEdmondsCEO (Mar 17, 2009)

*Response to a couple of questions in Gerard's Fantastic Travelblog*

Greetings All!

I can't tell you how impressed I am with Gerard's depictions and descriptions. Impressed, but not surprised. As you know by reading his submissions in the past, this is an intelligent man who can write. He's also a sophisticated businessman (he shared some of his experiences over chips and salsa, which was great). And the apple plopped right next to the tree - Tre (as in the III) is a great young man: well mannered, attentive, mature and still a good natured kid. I think we enjoyed having them here as much as, or more than they enjoyed the visit.

The Executive Collection shoes (Recraftable 270 welts with a sophisticated rubber sole that carry the full premium look) will be available during the Anniversary Sale at Nordstrom next month (in two styles - the Montgomery, a mocc toe, and the Presidio penny slip-on) and then in our own stores and at many of our dealers' locations in the fall. They will retail for $285 after the Sale. The other styles are named the Van Ness (perf'd captoe), the Sutter (beautiful plain toe) and the Lombard (stitched rim). These shoes are to appeal to men who want great American styling in classic-looking rubber soled shoes, and premium value in the price, plus the recraftability and the longlasting Allen Edmonds quality for which we're known. The Crosstowns, which retail at $199, are our entry-level (or for more casual situations) shoes and, with the cement-lasted soles, are not recraftable. If you like our leather-bottomed welts, you'll definitely want to consider the Executives.

In another thread someday, I'll explain our shoe development strategy in more detail. The only thing to add here is that Gerard mentioned others of our new products for Spring '10 that I showed him. They're actually new, fashion forward styles on our OOO last (the BelAir last) with 270 welted construction that sleekens the heel in back for more fashion-consistency. They will be a separate group from the Timeless Classics.

The pile of shoes that Gerard showed from my "office" are actually several pairs that I've wear-tested but were not yet ready for Prime Time. We donate those to charity, by the way. The Presidios were in that pile as we worked on the toplines and fit in the heel.

Gerard, you're doing fabulous work here. I, too, can't wait for the third installment!

Best wishes to all,

Paul


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## Kingstonian (Dec 23, 2007)

*AllenEdmondsCEO*,

A question about your overseas markets. You have a very small presence in the UK.

Have you considered the niche markets ? For example, the cordovan (MacNeil) long wing style is not offered by UK shoe makers, but it is a classic American shoe.

Any thoughts about exporting it to the UK ?


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## AllenEdmondsCEO (Mar 17, 2009)

*Exporting to the U.K.*



Kingstonian said:


> *AllenEdmondsCEO*,
> 
> A question about your overseas markets. You have a very small presence in the UK.
> 
> ...


Dear Kingstonian -

As you note, we in fact already export to the U.K. but it's not a great market for us so far. We do much better in Germany, Italy and Greece. However, we now have significantly increased aspirations for International, given the trends toward classic American styling and also our own improvements in products, strategy and personnel. Our relatively new (last October) VP of Marketing, Colin Hall, has also taken over International. He has a great deal of expatriate experience - both in Europe and in Asia - and is a "make it happen" professional, a great partner.

It's interesting that you should mention the MacNeil as the example. We're in the process of expanding our colors and leathers on that shoe for this fall as we work to attract new customers to our company, as well as to thrill our loyal customers with new looks. We're hoping our wider breadth of offerings and additional leather options in some more popular styles will lead to greater success overseas for us. Colin and our international agents are working toward that goal.

I encourage you to check our www.allenedmonds.com website for the latest that we have to offer.

Thanks very much for the inquiry!

Best wishes,
Paul


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## obiwan (Feb 2, 2007)

Hello Paul - your mention of additional colors on the McNeil peaked some curiosity on my part. Are we going to see new shell colors on this model or others this year? I own cordovan and black already, would be interested in hearing about what is in store.

Thanks,

Keith


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## Mazama (May 21, 2009)

*I've come back to A-E*

Poster 127.72 MHz makes excellent points - as usual - about the importance of supporting our remaining American shoe makers. Based on long wear of A-E several models as well as more expensive Aldens, I believe A-E makes an excellent product that represents good value.

It's clear from A-E's web site, this factory tour posting and Mr. Grangaard's postings that A-E is seriously investing in their plant and employees. This lets A-E keep prices at a level that those of us don't who want to spend enormous amounts for sturdy shoes made from good quality leather are willing to pay.

A-E's styles are made for a variety of tastes, and lots of them don't appeal to me personally. But manufacturing economics are such that keeping their volume up by serving several style markets lets A-E keep the prices of the models I like at a level that's more than competitive Alden while - given A-E's quality - also being competitive with (sometimes) inferior imports. And didn't I recently read - on this site? - that former British Prime Minister Tony Blair buys A-E shoes when he visits the U.S.?

In an era when the government orders all of us pay to keep politically favored businesses operating when they can't or won't do so on their own I appreciate the chance to choose to provide my personal economic stimulus to companies that I choose to support*. In that spirit I recently ordered my first new "dress" shoes in maybe ten years: A-E Manchesters and cordovan Graysons. And I'm sending my old but still fine brown scotch-grained Graysons to A-E for recrafting.

* Please tell us, Mr. Grangaard, that A-E is not taking any so-called stimulus money from the government.


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## hmas (May 31, 2009)

great thread, Ive been considering AE for my next shoe and this thread is helpful.


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## AllenEdmondsCEO (Mar 17, 2009)

obiwan said:


> Hello Paul - your mention of additional colors on the McNeil peaked some curiosity on my part. Are we going to see new shell colors on this model or others this year? I own cordovan and black already, would be interested in hearing about what is in store.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Keith


Keith/Obiwan - We're actually in the final decision phase on the colors. We're looking at pebble grains in a couple of different hues and, for the younger set who may be looking to spice up jeans or weekend wear, a dark blue, green and/or reddened-burgundy. We're not going crazy with any bright colors, but we thought we'd have some fun given that the long-wing, heavy-sole shoe look has become so much in vogue with younger men. Any reactions or input?

Mazama - No TARP or stimulus money came our way. We didn't even think to ask! As an authentic American company, we prefer the authentic and direct support of people like you all... Thank you!

Best,
Paul


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## kitonbrioni (Sep 30, 2004)

Excellent report. Thank you for posting it.


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## obiwan (Feb 2, 2007)

AllenEdmondsCEO said:


> Keith/Obiwan - We're actually in the final decision phase on the colors. We're looking at pebble grains in a couple of different hues and, for the younger set who may be looking to spice up jeans or weekend wear, a dark blue, green and/or reddened-burgundy. We're not going crazy with any bright colors, but we thought we'd have some fun given that the long-wing, heavy-sole shoe look has become so much in vogue with younger men. Any reactions or input?
> 
> Best,
> Paul


Speaking as middle aged man, I love my long wings, have them in cordovan, black, whiskey and cigar.

As for colors, walnut would be interesting on the longwing as would a nice scotch grain. Dark blue would really be unique and I would keep an open mind on it, if it were shell, sold! I think suede too could be a home run.

Can you tell I love shell, I think it runs true with a number of members on this board.


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## Luis-F-S (Apr 6, 2009)

Great news on the MacNeil! I have them in burgundy and black cordovan. Just please don't make the new ones as a polished cobbler! Please give us real calf skin and the black cordovan back! Thank you.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

*Conclusion*

Well this journey has come full circle. As I write this conclusion, I sit on my screen porch with my beagle, Tiki, sipping a glass of red wine. Tiki is a great dog - he has never eaten any of my shoes. :icon_smile_big: The wine is Valpolicella--hey, maybe that would be a good name for a shoe color (don't worry, I am not so confused as to fancy that I have a career as a shoe designer).

As Paul said earlier, we went to lunch and talked over a casual meal of chips, salsa and, for myself and my son, fish tacos. My son wanted to exhibit his independence so he had them fried. I had them grilled. Either way, we certainly would recomend them.

I would suggest each of you take the opportunity to go to Port Washington and visit Allend Edmonds and please don't miss Beanies.










When we got back to the factory, Paul and Jim were ready to go and the hot cork had cooled and set, so we were off to the races.

First thing they do is glue the sole on so it remains in place for the remainder of the operations. 


















Next the shoe needs to be prepped for the final sewing of the sole onto the footbed, et al. All of the waste has to be removed.










After this is complete, a channel is cut into the sole where it will then be sewn. The channel is cut in so that you don't end up walking on the thread. This is the really tricky part of the shoe making process and although this is machine driven, it requires a good deal of skill. I know first hand, because I tried my hand at it and destroyed a good pair of soles. I am sure that before my tenure on the machines, the terms "scorched earth" and "who's cooking bacon" were not very common in the shoe making world. Thankfully the sole can be extirpated and the steps redone, so all was not a total loss. One thing was certain, no one was worried about me coming in and stealing their job. My son got a real kick out of it, and he continued to bust me about it until . . . he got his.

Allow me a moment's digression, if you please. I really enjoyed being with the guys who in this work cell. As you will see in a few pictures, it is automated, but man, you need some skill to control the machines. These guys are real jockeys and you could see--especially after I scorched mine--they are proud of their work. Once they saw my ineptness, their chests puffed out and you could see the pride. The feel of this cell is like the bullpen of a baseball team--no one is asking them to do the easy job. With the pressure on, they spoke amongst themselves and picked the "one timers"--the guys who could get it right the first time.

















After that groove is cut, comes the equally tricky job of sewing the sole down. The guys asked me if I wanted to give that a try, and, after being sufficiently humbled, I said no way. I didn't feel the need to create any more laughs. :icon_smile_big:










If you take a close look at the sole of this shoe you will notice a slight "birthmark" on the sole--they wanted to do the shoe over, but I wouldn't let them. I thought it was a good reminder of the kind of crafsmanship that goes into the shoe. We left it in.

Next the soles were rolled--I think that is what it is called. This is so they are attached perfectly to the shoe.










After this comes the heel. Allow me another little diversion here.

Paul wanted to show me how changing from a 360 degreee welt to a 270 degree welt affected the kind of shoes Allen Edmonds can make. Take a look at this heel for the Presidio. Look at the sleekness the 270 degee allows for. Paul and team have pushed the company to a new place.



















I really believe people will enjoy the Executive Collection. Ok --back to the task at hand, building my Merlot Moras.

I wanted combination heels, and with the special orders, it is pretty much you get what you want.

Here is the combo heel.



















Once it is built the heel needs to be shaped.










And then finished with the wheel by the operator.










Finally we are ready to get edge dressing and head off to finishing.








They gave my son the job of adding the edge dressing. Take a good look at the shoe--my son needs to work on those "skills." Thankfully, the shoes have the plastic on them, and the professionals could step in and get the edge dressing right. Unfortuantely, Jim didn't believe my son was going to make the team, and he had to fire him on his first day on the job. I told him we would have a discussion about his commitment to quality on the way home. :icon_smile_big:

As we headed off to finishing I thought--wow, those shoes look good.










We then went to finishing.










Then we passed them on to the most difficult stage for me. I would now have to wait a whole 24hrs while the shoes sat on their last and took full shape.










All the shoes awaiting their new homes.










One "last" shot of Jim walking by his babies--all the shoes have to get their time-out as they sit on their lasts and await final inspection and shipment.

Eventually my shoes made their way home to me. I shined them up and snapped a photo










Thanks to all of you who have hung in there and read all the details of my trip. If you can't tell, I had a blast. I should probably supply some necessary background for people. Paul was kind enough to allow me to take pictures of everything. He never discouraged me or asked me not to photograph anything. He knew generally that I was going to do a "trip report," but I retain total editorial control over this rambling work. I want to thank Paul, Jim and Andy for allowing me to indulge this peculiar interest I have in the manufacture of shoes.

Now onto the good stuff. Paul has mentioned, and I have alluded to, some new shoes which Allen Edmonds is bringing out in the Spring of 2010. I thought I should show you some pictures. Paul--I hope this is ok.










The three shoes on the bottom part of the display are in the new premium collection. They will have combination heels and look very sharp.

I apologize that I am not a better photographer, but I really do think these are beautiful.










Well that brings us to the end of our journey--I am thinking about a trip report from a suit maker in Italy . . . .


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## deanayer (Mar 30, 2008)

G-man ! I need a hot towel and a cold drink! Excellent work amigo - keep it coming. 

As for colors...

Personally I would love to see loafers or deck shoes in Forest green, Dark Navy and dark Burgundy. I dont see formal shoes working in exotic colors. I would like to see these same colors in suede as well.

Realistically if I were CEO I would go for a blue specifically tuned to work with high-end ring-spun denim jeans and those exotic japanese denims. The styles I would go with would run towards lace up and slip-on clod-hoppers with thick non-leather soles as mentioned but I would derive the blue by sampling blue jean blues and then taking it down to a much darker complementary shade of blue so that it was specifically made to complement jeans and THEN I would show the shoes on the web with someone's foot in them who was wearing high end jeans so that you would be bashing the client over the head to make the point - these shoes are for jeans!....I would then name them "Eddie's" as a hip name derived from "Allen Edmonds".


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## AlanC (Oct 28, 2003)

Thanks for the report. Those new spectators look like they have possibilities.

I think the 270 degree welt will be welcome by many. I know one of the consistent knocks on AE on the fora has been the clunkiness of the heel with the 360 welt.

By the way, let me nominate a remake of the "Imperial" wingtips for the classics line:










More pics here.


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## Chi (Feb 15, 2009)

Oooohhhh, I like those camp mocs in the last couple photos.


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## Mattdeckard (Mar 11, 2004)

By the by, me being a retrofile of sorts, I'm wondering if there is a museum of sorts at Allen Edmonds? Could you possibly show us some pics of the really really early styles of shoes Allen Edmonds made if they are available?


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## PJC in NoVa (Jan 23, 2005)

Thanks for some terrific posts and photos. A-E is an impressive outfit. 

What do you suppose is the vintage of the machines in the A-E factory? I would guess they date from the 1960s. Are such machines even made anymore? Keeping them in top running order must take some real know-how.

I have brothers who have owned and run their own custom metals fabrication business for decades. While what they do is classified as light-industrial work and involves a lot of power equipment, they do indeed also bring to bear quite a few hard-won hand skills and even a certain facility with "eyeball reckoning" developed after long experience. There's an artisanal quality to their work; you are right to point out the same factors at work in the dexterity with which the able A-E teams do their jobs.


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## brokencycle (Jan 11, 2008)

AE CEO:

Adam tells me that more merlot/burgandy shoes are on the way. Would you please confirm, and are they some laceups?!?

Pretty please! :icon_smile_big:


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

PJC in NoVa said:


> Thanks for some terrific posts and photos. A-E is an impressive outfit.
> 
> What do you suppose is the vintage of the machines in the A-E factory? I would guess they date from the 1960s. Are such machines even made anymore? Keeping them in top running order must take some real know-how.
> 
> I have brothers who have owned and run their own custom metals fabrication business for decades. While what they do is classified as light-industrial work and involves a lot of power equipment, they do indeed also bring to bear quite a few hard-won hand skills and even a certain facility with "eyeball reckoning" developed after long experience. There's an artisanal quality to their work; you are right to point out the same factors at work in the dexterity with which the able A-E teams do their jobs.


Yes. I can't answer specifically the age of the equipment--Paul probably knows exactly--but I can tell you that some of the machinery is older than that. Jim pointed out that one of the machines was significantly older--he did not know the exact age as it predated him by many years--but he guess the 1940s or so. I am also sure that much of the machinery is also very new. What I believe AE is attempting to do is get the best mix of machine repeatability coupled with the artisanal aspects of the craft. I think they are doing that well.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Holy cow! Looking through your photo tour, reading your narrative, and recognizing the determination of Paul and his staff to maintaining the quality and commitment to excellence that originally attracted so many of us to Allen Edmond's, not only helps to justify my past AE purchases and, alas(?), motivates me to buy more but, the experience also seems to reassure the viewer that we will come back from the present economic downturn. Gman-17, not just a customer but also, a stark, raving fan and Allen Edmond's...American manufacturing ingenuity at it's best! Thanks to both for a wonderful experience!


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## alex87tkd (Jun 12, 2009)

I want a pair!!!!

Thank you for sharing this with us, an excellent glimpse into what is obviously a fantastic set-up and marvelous shoes!

Bravo AE!


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

This is great stuff. Even though I own the VASS book and have read every thread ever posted about shoe making, I never get tired of this stuff. Thanks for posting!


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## 127.72 MHz (Feb 16, 2007)

Hands down this is my favorite thread. I don't know when I've enjoyed looking at pictures of someone's trip to where ever.

Shoes have been a passion for me for a number of years and even though I'm no professional I have some big expectations for the direction Allen Edmonds is going.

I was concerned that the company might go off the deep end in terms of taking their lines too far fashion forward and heaven forbid creating new lines that were inexpensive and not well made. Maybe even off shore for a couple of low end lines and eventually taking the whole operation off shore. (Kind of a "Slow burn" Florsheim situation)

In terms of style I'm so glad to hear they are addressing it from both ends so to speak. I can see myself in two of the new more fashion forward styles and on the conservative end I have been telling Jeff Lanser at the Port Washington store for years that they need the McNeil in more colors and scotch/reverse/pebbled grains. (The same goes for the #1 last Leeds)

I need to save GMan's entire presentation and keep it for future reference.


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## Nick V (May 8, 2007)

gman--
Excellent report.
Thanks for sharing.


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## dks202 (Jun 20, 2008)

*Allen Admonds*

Great work! That's the best insight into shoemaking I have ever seen.


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## wgiceman (Jul 24, 2006)

AE CEO

Will the shoe on the bottom left (the perforated plain toe) be available in the Fall? in a dark brown? Is it on the 000 last? If yes, yes, and yes - I can place my order now! It's exactly what I have been looking for from AE.


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## smallwonder (Jun 29, 2009)

*Great Thread*

I went an purchased my first pair of AE's this weekend; the Fith Avenue's to be exact. Thanks to the guy that offered the 25% Jos A Bank discount code. I am really loving this site!


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## La Fin du Monde (Jun 4, 2009)

dks202 said:


> Great work! That's the best insight into shoemaking I have ever seen.


I must echo everyone else and thank you for starting this thread! The options for 2010 give me something to look forward to.


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## La Fin du Monde (Jun 4, 2009)

wgiceman said:


> AE CEO
> 
> Will the shoe on the bottom left (the perforated plain toe) be available in the Fall? in a dark brown? Is it on the 000 last? If yes, yes, and yes - I can place my order now! It's exactly what I have been looking for from AE.


This same shoe caught my eye too. Any additional information would be most appreciated.


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## IotaNet (Jun 28, 2009)

La Fin du Monde said:


> I must echo everyone else and thank you for starting this thread! *The options for 2010 give me something to look forward to.*


+1

This is a GREAT THREAD and the 2010 options look quite promising! :icon_smile_big:


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## AllenEdmondsCEO (Mar 17, 2009)

*The medallioned plain toe from our new line*

On behalf of all of us at Allen Edmonds, thanks once more to Gerard for a fantastic report from his time here in Port Washington.

The shoe that a couple of you have mentioned also received high marks from our wholesale sales force when they saw it. The style will be called the "Augusta" and it's part of our Spring '10 offerings, which will be in stores in February/March next year. However, given the response here as well as anticipated excitement from our wholesale customers at the New York Collective Men's Fashion Show in three weeks, we will try to move production of it forward.

The shoe is a 270 welt on the 000 last. It certainly can be ordered in brown burnished calfskin, but currently we're planning to sell it normally in black and walnut.

Be well,
Paul


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## JohnMS (Feb 18, 2004)

Excellent report. Thank you for taking the time to post. Did they really make your shoes in about 48 hours?


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## Brogue (May 18, 2009)

Paul,

I greatly appreciate Allen Edmonds' manufacturing larger sizes. Please keep doing so! You have a customer for life with 5 pairs and counting. I have my eye on the Bel Air now. Hopefully, the Mora will be available in a larger size too. It is a beautiful shoe.

Your shoes are a joy to put on in the morning, with the AE shoehorn, of course.

God bless!


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## IotaNet (Jun 28, 2009)

AllenEdmondsCEO said:


> ... The shoe that a couple of you have mentioned also received high marks from our wholesale sales force when they saw it. The style will be called the "Augusta" and it's part of our Spring '10 offerings ... The shoe is a 270 welt on the 000 last. It certainly can be ordered in brown burnished calfskin, but currently we're planning to sell it normally in black and walnut. ...


You're looking awfully "Exquisite" there, Paul.

I like it!!!


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## gtnc (Aug 7, 2006)

Fantastic thread! I have too many pairs of AEs already, but I am excited about the new styles with the 270 welt. Lots of possibilities there...

Thanks to gman and Paul for sharing this--lots to like about Allen Edmonds


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## 127.72 MHz (Feb 16, 2007)

AllenEdmondsCEO said:


> On behalf of all of us at Allen Edmonds, thanks once more to Gerard for a fantastic report from his time here in Port Washington.
> 
> The shoe that a couple of you have mentioned also received high marks from our wholesale sales force when they saw it. The style will be called the "Augusta" and it's part of our Spring '10 offerings, which will be in stores in February/March next year. However, given the response here as well as anticipated excitement from our wholesale customers at the New York Collective Men's Fashion Show in three weeks, we will try to move production of it forward.
> 
> ...


If I could order an Augusta in the Brown Burnished Calf right now I would. In the finishing process I wish I knew the shoes could be "Burnished" just as in this link:

https://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https://blog.leffot.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/dsc_00013.jpg&imgrefurl=https://blog.leffot.com/category/brands/edward-green/&usg=__S8Re1Y-VpSvaNZrBICryycgXIlU=&h=2000&w=3008&sz=755&hl=en&start=37&um=1&tbnid=yypk7SyI3XJfPM:&tbnh=100&tbnw=150&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dedward%2Bgreen%2Bshoe%2Bpictures%26ndsp%3D21%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26channel%3Ds%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-USfficial%26hs%3D8sh%26sa%3DN%26start%3D21%26um%3D1

Scroll down to the *Canterbury Chestnut Antique on 888 Last with Rams head Medallion*.

Sorry the link is so long,...I had to find a decent image.

I'd love to be enlightened as to how to get this kind of effect.


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## AscotWithShortSleeves (Apr 12, 2009)

*Great thread!*

It really makes you feel good to see that at least one American company can A) manufacture a very high-quality product and B) succeed in doing so.

I can't think of many products that are made here anymore other than extremely expensive bespoke items (e.g., Vector and Tesla automobiles). Even Ray-Ban is now owned by an Italian conglomerate (Luxottica).

What occurred to me about AE is that by the standards we would apply to other products, these shoes are hand-made. I have a friend who designs and builds custom furniture. Of course, he uses electric saws, drills, and routers. What I see the AE craftsmen/women doing looks to be much the same--using human hands and eyes to guide a machine, which can produce a more consistent product than hands alone could.

I own five pairs and will surely buy more.

Thanks to Gerard for the fascinating post, and thanks to AE for such open access--and for the great product!


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## chuckie50 (Apr 16, 2008)

As the owner of ten pairs of Allen Edmonds shoes I love this thread. There has been much debate about the falling quality of AE on this and other forums. This has not been my experience as a thirty year customer. So it was of interest to me when I came across this Fortune Magazine article from 2001 https://money.cnn.com/magazines/fortune/fortune_archive/2001/04/30/301940/index.htm in which the the writer states "But by the late 1970s,Allen Edmonds was struggling. _Quality had dropped, reputation had faded, and profits on what was then about $9 million in annual sales had dwindled._ Enter John Stollenwerk, a big man with a ready broad smile who is never so busy he can't find something else to do."
Paul please keep up the good work. It's rare today that a company actually listens to it's customers and surely more companies should follow your example.


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## wgiceman (Jul 24, 2006)

AllenEdmondsCEO said:


> On behalf of all of us at Allen Edmonds, thanks once more to Gerard for a fantastic report from his time here in Port Washington.
> 
> The shoe that a couple of you have mentioned also received high marks from our wholesale sales force when they saw it. The style will be called the "Augusta" and it's part of our Spring '10 offerings, which will be in stores in February/March next year. However, given the response here as well as anticipated excitement from our wholesale customers at the New York Collective Men's Fashion Show in three weeks, we will try to move production of it forward.
> 
> ...


Fantastic news! I would be extremely happy if it can be made available in the Fall of this year. I have a birthday in September, so there would be no need to wait until Christmas. Please consider offering this model in the burnished brown calf; that will eliminate the $100 upcharge for custom order. If it were available today, I would order today.

Needless to say, Paul, I love the AE products. I am up to 23 pairs and looking to get a couple more.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

So I said that I would do this in three parts, well . . . since I am always the last one at the party, I thought I would add a fourth and see if I couldn't help keep the party alive and get you to join me in one last and final post.

Paul whipped out this shoe--the Strand--and said, "this is still my favorite." I looked at the shoe and it struck me as beautiful and I said, "I have to get a picture of that." It was clear to me why I have this fascination with the product.










I think you can see why as well--to coin a phrase, timeless and classic.

Please permit me, if you will, for just a moment, to conclude with a wee bit of a soap box. As my wife and children will tell you, when I like something, I am obsessive. My moto throughout my life has been everything in moderation--even moderation.

Get me started on shoes, red wine, dark chocolate, shirts--the topics are endless-- and I will go on about what I like. Who wants to argue pocket squares? I am more likely to cry watching the movie "Rudy" than I am during a funeral. I like the struggle. What brings me to all of this are some exeperiences in my youth. My father had his own manufacturing business--he was, after several tries--very successful. I watched the manufacturing businesses of NJ, NY and PA move to the southern states and then finally move offshore. We didn't. I never got angry when they moved--I understood. Our society does not love the manufacturer or the creator of products and jobs. We love the pop stars and empty headed "performers." I have nothing against them, but nothing really happens in this world until someone makes something. Be it shoes, phones, cars or wine--we need to make things. One thing I like about Japanese and German cultures, they revere the maker of goods. We could learn something from them. I hope the folks in Port Washington, WI never lose the passion for making shoes. So as not to lose your interest, I will end this here. I hope to bend your ear again, and I am glad you have enjoyed tuning in.

PS - Thank you Paul, Jim and Brenda. It was a distinct pleasure to be your guest and I look forward to meeting you all again.


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## CPal (Dec 28, 2003)

I love the moccasin in the bottom right of the photo!


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## Preu Pummel (Feb 5, 2008)

WOW.

Thanks for the great documentary thread! This should be on some sticky-type-hall-o-fame thread bucket. It's great to see how they make the shoes and the people involved.


gman-17 said:


>


*DO

WANT*


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## Stringfellow (Jun 19, 2008)

My favorite thread! Thanks!

But inquiring minds want to know, where do the two divits on the inside of the shoe come from?


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## PJC in NoVa (Jan 23, 2005)

For all those whose appetite for A-Es has been whetted, and who can satisfy it with RTW offerings, I checked in today with the staff of yet another Joe Bank store (this one in downtown DC) to confirm that the JAB Corporate Card is good ANY DAY for a discount of 20% off A-E shoes, and was told that yes, indeed, it is. They can order you pretty much any shoe in the A-E catalogue.


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## DashingMan (Dec 29, 2008)

A fantastic thread, as has been echoed by many members here. I own three pairs of A-E shoes, most recently picking up the Strand, as pictured with Paul. It really is a beautiful shoe and probably is my favorite. I hope A-E continues to come out with shoes available in specialty sizes, as I take a 10AA in most shoes. A-E seems to be one of the very few companies left that accommodate such narrow (and wide, for those of you) feet. I find it heartening that a CEO of a company would take the time to post frequently, answer questions and take suggestions from an online forum. Kudos to Paul for clearly being a different kind of CEO!


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## hmhill (Apr 30, 2005)

I really enjoyed this thread and AE is the go to place for people with narrow feet like myself since they are more widely available than Aldens.

Max


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## Cary Grant (Sep 11, 2008)

hmhill said:


> I really enjoyed this thread and AE is the go to place for people with narrow feet like myself since they are more widely available than Aldens.
> 
> Max


I think that is probably AE's best factor, that they actually still sell widths.

Maybe Paul could answer how width sales break down by percentage.


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## Matt_K (May 3, 2009)

great thread gman. Thanks for sharing your trip, highly educational and informative.


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## memphislawyer (Mar 2, 2007)

AllenEdmondsCEO said:


> Keith/Obiwan - We're actually in the final decision phase on the colors. We're looking at pebble grains in a couple of different hues and, for the younger set who may be looking to spice up jeans or weekend wear, a . Any reactions or input?
> 
> Best,
> Paul


Paul, I don't really understand all the lasts and things. I have two pairs of AE's, one a pair I got off Ebay. The Ebay ones I think were mismatched, that is, the left shoe of one pair and the right shoe of another, and then put into one box. The captoe Park Avenue is it, and one shoe has the tongue sewed into the side, the other shoe does not, and one cap runs at a slant and is lower on the toe box than the other. I think most people dont catch it. BUT, these are my favorite shoes. They are supportive and heavy, but not heavy. When I want to look like a million dollars, I wear them. I also got at a factory store in Destin, FL, some Hillcrest. I wear these most days but the weight is very heavy. I am thinking of getting another dress AE, and using the Hillcrest for rain and slush. I have no idea whether I should look at the last first (I guess that makes sense) to get a shoe that fits me as wonderfully as the Park Avenue.

But to your post about the pebble grain. Many guys like me, it is not convenient to have 20 pairs of shoes. Maybe I need to branch into burgundy, but right now, I have a pair of Cole Haan loafers and the two AE for suits. I have a pair of Peter Huber sueded loafers in black and then Coach brown suede loafers, most casual and for winter. I have a pair of Cole Haan Bergamo brown penny loafers, but that thin sole hurts my feet. Id love to really toss those. But I need a pair of brown shoes that I can wear with wool khaki-colored pants and a black sportscoat, with and without ties. Or if I just wear those pants and wear a sweater in winter, or nice polo in summer. If those Cole Haans had a better sole, I would not be posting. SO I looked at the Lambart today and think you discontinued it. That sorta shoe seems to fit the bill. Leather sole and a laceup if you need to wear it with a sportscoat, and yet, the pebble grain can be worn with the sweater or even jeans. Maybe offer that in an ankle boot like a Clarks tall Wallabee, without the zip side, but laceup.

Anyway, I can be the poster child that it is better to spend a little more money for AE than trying to save a buck for Bostonian. Everytime I get the Hillcrest cobbled, I am told that they dont make shoes like they used to but AE is about as close to that as they ever see. Maybe they see Alden, but it is not as widespread I guess. I am always tough on heels, but heel taps walking in a courthouse dont always cut it.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

Stringfellow said:


> My favorite thread! Thanks!
> 
> But inquiring minds want to know, where do the two divits on the inside of the shoe come from?


String,

If you are speaking of the inside area of the heel where AE breaks the edge, it is deliberately done to ensure your trousers cuffs don't get caught. Check out this video on recrafting and you'll see how they do it.

G


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## speedmaster (May 27, 2008)

Wow, great trip and report!!! :aportnoy:


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## memphislawyer (Mar 2, 2007)

I liked watching the video. Do they have one showing a shoe being made from the ground up?


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## AAF-8AF (Feb 24, 2009)

gman-17 said:


> String,
> 
> If you are speaking of the inside area of the heel where AE breaks the edge, it is deliberately done to ensure your trousers cuffs don't get caught. Check out this video on recrafting and you'll see how they do it.
> 
> G


I thought he meant the two little pits in the insole.

But on the topic of the bevel on the heel corner, I have to admit that I don't get how it relates to catching your trouser cuffs unless your trousers are too long or unless you like to take them on and off with your shoes on. I really need some enlightenment :idea:
.
.


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

AAF-8AF said:


> I thought he meant the two little pits in the insole.
> 
> But on the topic of the bevel on the heel corner, I have to admit that I don't get how it relates to catching your trouser cuffs unless your trousers are too long or unless you like to take them on and off with your shoes on. I really need some enlightenment :idea:
> .
> .


I think I can answer both questions. I believe the concept of the break on the heel is that the sharp corner can catch on the upturn of a trouser cuff. I often put my legs up under my desk and have actually done this with a pair of Ferrragmo shoes that do not have the break. Not your usual occurrence--but it happens. I like it because it is the final attention to detail. If you have ever designed a product which is machined you always specify the type of edge--sharp corners should, almost always, be broken.

I believe the two little dimple holes in the footbed are the result of the footbed being attached to the last. Initially the footbed is secured to the last to begin the manufacturing process. Go back through to the (I believe it is post #25 of this thread) 2nd part of my report and you will see that. I believe that is where they come from.

Cheers.


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## Simon Myerson (Nov 8, 2007)

Fascinating report and great photos. Thank you.

Will have to get the Augusta in black to the UK - or I have to ask for a volunteer to receive a pair in the States and post them on...


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## weckl (Jun 28, 2003)

Indeed, you truly have been to Mecca. And what a reception! The Ask Andy VIP treatment! Another reason to love AE.


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## Stringfellow (Jun 19, 2008)

AAF-8AF said:


> I thought he meant the two little pits in the insole.


Precisely. The black insoles have 2 little pits on top of the heal. Why? No other shoes have these (at least that I know of).


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

Stringfellow said:


> Precisely. The black insoles have 2 little pits on top of the heal. Why? No other shoes have these (at least that I know of).


Stringfellow read my post number 86.

The footbed is tacked down to the last. That is what is happening in the picture below.









BTW I don't think this is a feature peculiar to machine made shoes.

Check out this last which was made for the actor George Hamilton by custom shoe maker W.S. Foster & Sons. Notice all of the small tack holes in it--it appears they use a similar method to secure the footbed for manufacture. By the way the picture is found on the blog A Suitable Wardrobe and the blogger, Will Boehlke, is a member here. His blog is an excellent read.

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Wbd-uMYm...aeJ_g1QM/s1600-h/Geo+Hamilton+last+bottom.JPG


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## Nick V (May 8, 2007)

gman-17 said:


> Stringfellow read my post number 86.
> 
> The footbed is tacked down to the last. That is what is happening in the picture below.
> 
> ...


Good illustration. I had a customer this week that had a pair of new Lobbs. He was complaining about the little holes in the footbed. I went in the back and brought out a last and showed him the tack holes. I explained that the shoes were benchmade and the process is the footbed gets tacked to the last to ensure that it takes the proper shape. Suddenly, the little holes didn't bother him any more. Some makers will use a full sock liner to cover those holes. I can't see why the holes may bother your imagination but not your foot.


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## AllenEdmondsCEO (Mar 17, 2009)

*Large Sizes - And Small*



Brogue said:


> Paul,
> 
> I greatly appreciate Allen Edmonds' manufacturing larger sizes. Please keep doing so! You have a customer for life with 5 pairs and counting. I have my eye on the Bel Air now. Hopefully, the Mora will be available in a larger size too. It is a beautiful shoe.
> 
> ...


Hello Brogue -

Thanks for your message. We're committed to making shoes in our unusually broad spectrum of sizes and widths. Great quality, comfort and styling are what make for our overriding goal of premium value. We're not only committed to atypical sizes, we're out looking for bigger guys to wear our shoes. Our sales team on the West Coast has time scheduled in the midst of the Oakland Raiders training camp to fit those guys with shoes. I'm looking forward to seeing the order sheet with the sizes listed.

Thanks again,

Paul


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## Mad Hatter (Jul 13, 2008)

Paul, has there been any more thought being put into a balmoral boot?


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## msphotog (Jul 5, 2006)

Paul and Everyone- On a recent Father's Daythread I posted the story about how my dad introduced me to AE's, and how I would also get a pair for my son wh is getting married in August. Well, Saturday, in San Antonio, My wife and son visited Joseph's Menswear and he was fitted with a pair of Park Avenues to wear at the wedding. The associate was patient and knowlegeable as my wife called me several times to make sure they got the right shoe. I'm really glad they had his size-13D, and he and my wife are really proud of them. Although we paid full retail, the service was worth it, and the salesman also included a pair of AE shoe trees. 
I am a firm believer that if you need the advice and experience of a brick and mortar store and their sales associates, it's worth paying the price for the service. It also allows the store to stay in business so they'll still be there when you need them! 
I will also be wearing AE's at the wedding, although maybe I'll break out my black Byron's that have never been worn, or just order a pair of Leeds from JAB, my only local store.

Thanks again, Paul for all your hard work, and personal service!


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## gracian (Jan 7, 2006)

What an informative post. I have never owned a pair of AE's but now look forward to buying my first pair.


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## JLibourel (Jun 13, 2004)

Yeah, this has been a very inspirational thread. I'll have to try a pair or two of A-E's sometime soon.


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## greekgeek (Mar 19, 2009)

What a great thread. Thanks for taking the time.


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## kirbya (Nov 10, 2004)

....perhaps we could do an AAAC Pre-Purchase Group Buy?!?

I like those shoes also. Very distinctive. Love the last.

I don't know how Gerard left without purchasing 10 additional pairs of shoes. It would have been like being a kid in a candy shop. And to actually get to participate in having your shoes made, wow!

Gerard, thanks for taking the time out of your schedule to write this post! It will certainly go down as an AAAC classic!!

Cheers,

Kirby



AllenEdmondsCEO said:


> On behalf of all of us at Allen Edmonds, thanks once more to Gerard for a fantastic report from his time here in Port Washington.
> 
> The shoe that a couple of you have mentioned also received high marks from our wholesale sales force when they saw it. The style will be called the "Augusta" and it's part of our Spring '10 offerings, which will be in stores in February/March next year. However, given the response here as well as anticipated excitement from our wholesale customers at the New York Collective Men's Fashion Show in three weeks, we will try to move production of it forward.
> 
> ...


Kirby Allison's Hanger Project
You tailor your clothes. 
Now tailor your hangers!
www.HangerProject.com


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

kirbya said:


> ....perhaps we could do an AAAC Pre-Purchase Group Buy?!?
> 
> I like those shoes also. Very distinctive. Love the last.
> 
> ...


Kirby,

I know exactly what you mean--I think that is why they only have one shoe in their showroom. If they had pairs, I would have been heading for the door. Actually the truth is my wife will only let me buy one pair of shoes a month. Now that I have seen the new line I have to save up a few months to make sure I can get more than one pair at a time. Don't they look super.


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## JohnMS (Feb 18, 2004)

*Presidio*

I see the press release is out regarding the AE Executive Collection, which includes the Presidio that has been discussed. Here is a link to pictures of the styles from that collection...

https://www.winsbyinc.com/ae/pr/exec_pr.html


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## MTM_Master? (Jul 8, 2009)

Great thread! Maybe someday I'll be able to visit the factory-I live less than 10 miles away!


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## themanfromlisbon (Nov 3, 2008)

With some delay, but I must tell you that your thread is one of the best in the forum, GMan. Great job.
I believe AE is honoured and grateful.

Cheers

V


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## edhillpr (Apr 19, 2007)

GMan,
This is a superb thread and you have done a fine job with the photos and story. 

Well done, old Man!


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## IotaNet (Jun 28, 2009)

Has anyone noticed that this thread is featured on the allenedmonds.com website?

Nice job!


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

These shoes appear in the bottom left of one of your photos. Are these the current Ashton (with rubber soles), or a revival of the Walton?


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

Doctor Damage said:


> These shoes appear in the bottom left of one of your photos. Are these the current Ashton (with rubber soles), or a revival of the Walton?


Doc,

Just saw your post. I believe these are the Ashton, because the do have the rubber bottom. But I am sure Paul will correct me if I am wrong.

Iota,

Actually I saw that it was added there last week and I was pretty floored by that. I couldn't believe that Andy put us on the homepage here. Needless to say, I pleased that all of you have enjoyed it.

-G


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## perryw (Sep 22, 2008)

Just doing some catching up and noticed the thread. It's just great that AE took the time to give you a tour like that. Seeing all the steps that go in to hand making the shoes almost makes me feel guilty about buying the shoes at a discount! Those folks deserve every penny they make!


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

perryw said:


> Just doing some catching up and noticed the thread. It's just great that AE took the time to give you a tour like that. Seeing all the steps that go in to hand making the shoes almost makes me feel guilty about buying the shoes at a discount! Those folks deserve every penny they make!


Perry,

One of the things which really struck me walking around and talking with the people there and observing their commitment to making a good product, even at full price you are certainly not overpaying. I was happy to have the chance to tell their story.

G


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## NU81 (Jan 29, 2008)

Excellent post! Thoroughly enjoyable and informative. This posts convinces me I've been making the right decision when I've purchased my last six pairs of shoes and they were all from Allen Edmonds.


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## jackmccullough (May 10, 2006)

Great thread.

I find that almost no matter what the work is, there is great pleasure in watching a skilled worker do his or her job.


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## russbheez (Jul 17, 2009)

Great thread, I love the AE brand and style updates made in the '09 collection are perfect. The Tresana is one of the best values available.

https://www.russbheez.com


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## joshmitra (Jun 6, 2009)

I just ordered a pair of the Mora's today and after reading your thread, I am a lot more confident that I have just made a great investment. Thank you!


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## Mr. Walter Trent (Jul 21, 2009)

This thread is the reason I joined.

Thank you!!

Long live well-made shoes :aportnoy:


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## The Pin (Sep 3, 2008)

this thread is absolutely phenomenal. sorry for the bump, but I just can't help myself. buying my first pair of AEs with my first paycheck from my new job.


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## txmusician (May 14, 2009)

I love Allen Edmonds. Great, affordable shoes.


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## AHS (Mar 18, 2006)

*Remarkable and fun thread...*

Just read it this morning.... I somehow missed it this summer. Thank you for posting.

Made me even more proud to wear and support Allen Edmonds. AE President and CEO Paul Grangaard seems like a great guy and smart businessman.

AHS


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## gman-17 (Jan 29, 2009)

*Thread Redux*

Friends,

I think you should stay tuned . . . . I see a thread update coming . . . :icon_smile:


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## Geoff Gander (Apr 4, 2007)

Now you're just teasing us... :icon_smile_wink:


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## Wes Bourne (Nov 12, 2009)

Great thread, thank you for sharing. Will it be possible to recraft a Park Ave or any other 360 welt shoe on the new 270 welt?


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## chuckie50 (Apr 16, 2008)

Wes Bourne said:


> Great thread, thank you for sharing. Will it be possible to recraft a Park Ave or any other 360 welt shoe on the new 270 welt?


Great idea Wes I sure hope Paul will chime in and let us know if if something like a 270 welt can be retrofitted to older models.


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