# Formal Tuxedo Waistcoat



## Brianpore (Jul 17, 2011)

Looking into having a custom waistcoat for my new tuxedo made. I have read though the black tie guide and saw these two pictures. I very much like how they are different then the normal suit vest in regards to the low button stance and deep "u" shape. Do anyone have pointers/pictures of other classic waistcoats?


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

Either single breasted, U shape or V shape, generally 3 buttons, lapels same facing as jacket, or double breasted with 3 rows of buttons. There are illustrations here but you will have to use the search feature and look, it may take a while going through threads.

A double breasted 4 button U shape photo in post 4: https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?93268-Semi-Formal-Waistcoat

Cutter and Tailor has a number illustrated in this article. You can also use the pictured white vest patterns for a black one:


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## Anthony Charton (May 7, 2012)

Brianpore said:


> Looking into having a custom waistcoat for my new tuxedo made. I have read though the black tie guide and saw these two pictures. I very much like how they are different then the normal suit vest in regards to the low button stance and deep "u" shape. Do anyone have pointers/pictures of other classic waistcoats?


Evening waistcoats are traditionally cut much lower than day waistcoats. A much higher cut would be inadequate. If you're having it custom-made and wish to stand out tastefully, a double-breasted model isn't a bad idea at all.

You might have already explored this page, but it is full of useful information, so just in case: https://www.blacktieguide.com/Classic/Classic_Waist.htm


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## rwaldron (Jun 22, 2012)

Since I wear black tie only once a year or so (unlike the dozen plus times a year I wear white tie), I wanted to get something witha classic cut, but for an affordable price, and I believe that this is what I am going to get:


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Polyester? Gross.


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

Jovan said:


> Polyester? Gross.


In fairness to rwaldron, there is a wool option for $49 that comes up when you click on the black version on the right side of the picture. If it's gross I suspect he will return it. The least expensive from one of the usual suspect I found is $115 from CT.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

I'd rather go with the Tyrwhitt, myself! A classic look at a good price, it is. Hell, I'm thinking of getting it now...

EDIT: Link added by me. Evidently it didn't want to play nice by itself.


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## Titus_A (Jun 23, 2010)

BB sells a backless semi-formal waistcoat almost identical to the second picture in the original post. Silk and barathea. I picked one up three days ago. I don't think it would win any contests if you were to walk around with your jacket off, but absent the unusual or the unbecoming, who is taking his dinner jacket off in front of company anyways?

Of course, if you want to have one made, go for it. If you're looking for other pictures, here are some suggestions: 1) look up Fred Astaire, 2) watch _Downton Abbey_, 3) pick up Alan Flusser's _Dressing the Man_, or 4) look for any old depictions of men in evening wear. Even the ones involving white tie will be helpful, because the design (as opposed to the material) of a formal (white) waistcoat is not any different from that of a semi-form (black) waistcoat. Backless would be a good bet for summer.


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## Balfour (Mar 23, 2012)

Here's a classic picture (near the bottom of the house style menu), but I wouldn't recommend having yours made there unless you have deep pockets indeed:


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## rwaldron (Jun 22, 2012)

arkirshner said:


> In fairness to rwaldron, there is a wool option for $49 that comes up when you click on the black version on the right side of the picture. If it's gross I suspect he will return it. The least expensive from one of the usual suspect I found is $115 from CT.





Jovan said:


> Polyester? Gross.


I suppose that I should have pointed out this one: https://bmb.goemerchant.com/cart/ca...rchant=uniformalwearhousellc&ItemNumber=VT54D


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## K Street (Dec 4, 2007)

Titus_A said:


> BB sells a backless semi-formal waistcoat almost identical to the second picture in the original post. Silk and barathea. I picked one up three days ago. I don't think it would win any contests if you were to walk around with your jacket off, but absent the unusual or the unbecoming, who is taking his dinner jacket off in front of company anyways?


Any details, photos, etc. you can provide to describe the fit of the vest would be most appreciated. I'm considering one myself but the website reviews warn about strange sizing. I tried to see firsthand at the local stores in December but they did not have it in stock.


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## Titus_A (Jun 23, 2010)

K Street said:


> Any details, photos, etc. you can provide to describe the fit of the vest would be most appreciated. I'm considering one myself but the website reviews warn about strange sizing. I tried to see firsthand at the local stores in December but they did not have it in stock.


I'm not sure what the reviews were driving at. First, there should be some wiggle room, because the thing buttons behind the neck: there are three buttons, so you have about two inches of adjustment there. I didn't have on my tuxedo trousers and wasn't wearing suspenders when I tried it on, but I put it on the second button at the neck, buttoned up the front, tugged my trousers up a hair to where they would sit if I were wearing suspenders, and the waistcoat fit just as I expected. I had three shirt buttons above it and it covered my waist. I'd say go for it. I'm not surprised they didn't have it in stock though, even in DC.


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## wfhoehn (Aug 13, 2012)

I ordered one recently and had to send it back because of the sizing. Though I felt that it was very attractive, it was way too short. My trousers have a fair rise, but I couldn't raise them high enough to get rid of the gap between them and the vest. I'm 6' tall. If you are shorter, this vest is probably a good option.


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## filfoster (Aug 23, 2011)

Just going to Brooks and having done with it worked for me.


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## K Street (Dec 4, 2007)

Titus_A said:


> I'm not sure what the reviews were driving at. First, there should be some wiggle room, because the thing buttons behind the neck: there are three buttons, so you have about two inches of adjustment there. I didn't have on my tuxedo trousers and wasn't wearing suspenders when I tried it on, but I put it on the second button at the neck, buttoned up the front, tugged my trousers up a hair to where they would sit if I were wearing suspenders, and the waistcoat fit just as I expected. I had three shirt buttons above it and it covered my waist. I'd say go for it. I'm not surprised they didn't have it in stock though, even in DC.


Thanks! I did try on a comparable vest (with a paisley pattern) but it was too short, even with my pants hiked up to tuxedo height. I may give it a shot next time they have a sale.


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## smmrfld (May 22, 2007)

I'd just have Carrot and Gibbs make you a custom bowtie and waistcoat. Prices are very reasonable - I had them do a set for me recently and am very pleased. Each item is made to order in the USA, there are many fabrics from which to choose, and they will alter sizes so that both items are an exact fit.


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## Youthful Repp-robate (Sep 26, 2011)

Can we make fun of the picture of the main picture on the Tyrwhitt site for that vest? It looks like a nice outfit for a character in a Western -- a second-rate riverboat gambler, perhaps. Maybe a saloon keeper who can't keep order until the mysterious man who's just drifted into town throws the roughnecks out on their ears. Sleeve garters and muttonchops are, of course, essential.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

What's wrong with the picture?

EDIT: The pictures for this are much more ripe for making fun of. Including how the waistband isn't covered. Tsk, tsk.


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## Youthful Repp-robate (Sep 26, 2011)

Are we looking at the same picture? Sorry this is obnoxiously large, but this is ridiculous. The vest seems nice, though.


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## Titus_A (Jun 23, 2010)

wfhoehn said:


> I ordered one recently and had to send it back because of the sizing. Though I felt that it was very attractive, it was way too short. My trousers have a fair rise, but I couldn't raise them high enough to get rid of the gap between them and the vest. I'm 6' tall. If you are shorter, this vest is probably a good option.


That must be it: at 5' 9" I can get away with a thing or two.


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## Titus_A (Jun 23, 2010)

Jovan said:


> EDIT: The pictures for this are much more ripe for making fun of. Including how the waistband isn't covered. Tsk, tsk.


Damnit, Jim, I'm a doctor, not a haberdasher. I can't just change the mannequin's shirt in between each shot.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Titus_A said:


> Damnit, Jim, I'm a doctor, not a haberdasher. I can't just change the mannequin's shirt in between each shot.


Must be the same excuse the Hickey Freeman and Brooks Brothers photographer came up with when they pictured their models in tail coats... with a black tie, pleated shirt, and cummerbund.


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## TJay (Dec 31, 2013)

The u-shaped vest in the original post can be ordered from Ede & Ravenscroft.


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