# Bespoke shoemakers



## jcusey

In the tradition of medwards's , I thought it might be useful to start something similar about bespoke shoemakers. In an attempt to bring some sort of order to a very disordered subject, I have categorized makers by geographic origin. This isn't necessarily the best way to do it, but I had to do something. I don't intend for this list to be comprehensive, and I hope that others will add to it.

*Please note that I don't have experience with all of these makers and their inclusion on this list is not intended to serve as an endorsement of them.*

*England*

 -- Probably the most famous bespoke shoemaker in the world, and among the most expensive. Often disparaged as "Blobb's" because their lasts can lack much shape. Annual production probably close to 1000 pairs.
 -- formed by George Glasgow and John Carnera, associates of GJ Cleverley at New & Lingwood, after Cleverley's death in the early 1990s, the most renowned maker the chisel-toe shoes (although there are many others who do this now) that Cleverley so loved. GJ Cleverley also has the right of first refusal on Russian reindeer hides salvaged from the wreck of the , sunk in 1786. Annual production probably around 400 pairs.
 -- Edward Green's bespoke business is under the management of Tony Gaziano, formerly of GJ Cleverley. Tony is probably the most maker of the most shapely chisel-toe shoes being made in England today. Annual production around 100 pairs. According to , Tony and Edward Green will be going their separate ways in September 2006; and Tony will be starting his own firm named *Gaziano Girling* at that time. The Girling in Gaziano Girling is David Girling, who is one of the bespoke makers (ie, the artisan who handsews the welt to the upper and insole and again to the sole) in London. Gaziano Girling will be buying the EG bespoke operation, which means that the samples, the client book, and the lasts (subject to approval of the clients) will go with Tony.
 -- Foster & Son did not travel abroad to take orders. [They now do.] Consequently, they were low-profile and often forgotten in discussions of English bespoke shoes. Nevertheless, they employ the man who is reputedly the best lastmaker in England, Terry Moore. *Henry Maxwell* is owned by Foster & Son, and shoes made by this firm can carry either the Foster & Son or the Maxwell label.
*Jason Amesbury* -- Amesbury formerly was a clicker and lastmaker for John Lobb St. James.
*Paul Davies (DBA The London Shoemaker)* -- Paul most recently worked for GJ Cleverley and has struck out on his own.
 -- Cornforth is based in Yorkshire rather than London like the preceding makers. I know next to nothing about him.
 -- I know nothing about this maker, but just based on their prices, they probably are not to the standards of the best West End makers.
*France*

*John Lobb Paris* -- One of the most expensive bespoke shoemakers in the world. The samples I have seen are exquisite. The typical Lobb Paris shoe has a British design imbued with typical French flair.
*Berluti* -- Pay no attention to those overpriced abomonations RTW shoes bearing the Berluti label. Berluti bespoke shoes are the real deal. They may be fashion forward, just like the Berluti RTW shoes, but Berluti's dedication to fit and their quality of construction is reputedly excellent.
*Aubercy* -- Aubercy's RTW shoes share an aesthetic with Berluti, and so do their bespoke shoes. The bespoke program is run by Didier Martinez, formerly of Berluti; and the aesthetic, prices, and quality of Aubercy bespoke is similar.
 -- Owned and operated by the brothers Corthay. Probably not as fashion-forward as Berluti or Aubercy, but more so than just about anything coming out of Britain.
 -- I believe that Gomez holds the same sort of position at Crockett & Jones that Tony Gaziano holds at Edward Green: in addition to running a bespoke business, he also develops RTW lasts. Where Tony developed the EG 888 and 82 lasts, Gomez developed the C&J 337 last. I know next to nothing about Gomez's bespoke business, but the shoes look beautiful.
 -- More fashion-forward shoes in the mold of Berluti and Aubercy. According to user Rich (qv), the shoes are actually made by Sukru Sensozlu in Turkey.
 -- Delos is a former employee of John Lobb Paris (qv), and the pictures of shoes he has made on his website appear to have much the same English sensibility informed with French flair that JL Paris's shoes exhibit at their best. I have no direct knowledge of the quality of Delos's shoes, but people whose judgment I respect tell me that he is very, very good.
*Carmina (Albaladejo)* -- Carmina is known mostly on these forums as a RTW shell cordovan specialist. I recently found out that they offer bespoke shoes out of their Paris shop. Other than that little nugget, I know nothing about their bespoke operation.
*Italy*

 -- A Milanese maker, who, according to people that I trust to know, is excellent. Like most Italian makers, he is comfortable with Norwegian and Bentivegna construction, in addition to regular old welting.
 -- Based in Florence, Bemer is a highly-reputed maker. The one example of his work that I have seen is excellent.
*Roberto Ugolini* -- Another Florentine maker. Vass's U and F lasts were developed for Vass-made, Ugolini-labeled RTW shoes sold in Japan. I don't know much about Ugolini's bespoke shoes, but the pictures I have seen have been beautiful.
 -- a Bolognese maker about whom I know very little.
*Gatto* -- The famous Roman maker. I have heard that they require an initial order of 6 (!) pairs of shoes, but I don't know if this is accurate.
 -- Based in Casette d'Este but with shops in Rome, Milan, New York, and Hangzhou, Lattanzi is a pioneer in the United States for super-expensive handmade RTW shoes; but he also does bespoke shoes that are reputedly among the best of their type in the world, with a pricetag to match.
*Central and Eastern Europe*

*Rudolf Scheer* -- the venerable Viennese firm, known as the John Lobb of Vienna. The shoes from Scheer that I have seen pictures of have been the most English-looking of all Central and Eastern European makers.
 -- Another well-reputed Viennese firm, but with more typically Austrian shoes than Scheer.
*Balint* -- Yet another well-reputed Viennese firm.
 -- Another Viennese firm, although the bespoke shoes are made in Romania.
 -- Budapest. You all know about them.
 -- Based in Warsaw.
*Brunon Kaminski* -- Another Warsaw maker.
*Benjamin Klemann* -- based in Basthorst, Germany. Klemann trained with John Lobb St. James.
 -- another Budapest firm. Forum member Marcell is the owner and the principal cordwainer for Koronya, and he also offers for those who are interested. See also his about shoemaking. I have never seen any of his shoes in person, but they look to be excellent.
*Japan*

 -- Maker of some of the most beautiful shoes I have ever seen. He currently has a waiting list to get on the waiting list for his shoes.
 -- For those of you who have seen the Men's Ex _The World Of High-End Shoes_, vols. 1 and 2, the article showing the entire bespoke process from start to finish is about a pair of Guild of Crafts shoes. It's amazing how they were able to produce a pair of beautiful shoes to fit wide, misshapen feet.
*United States*

*Perry Ercolino* -- Based in Doylestown, PA but with frequent visits to New York City, Ercolino has posted here on occasion. I have never seen any of his shoes in person, but he certainly seems to have the right attitude to shoemaking.
*Vincent & Edgar* -- Owned by Roman Vainguz. Kabbaz says that Vainguz made the most beautiful pair of shoes he has ever seen. I have no reason to doubt him, although his samples in the window of his shop on Lexington Ave. in NYC are, well, _interesting_.
*Oliver Moore* -- Another NYC-based shoemaker. I know nothing about this firm other than what was written in the Vass book.
 -- Cowboy boot specialists based in Oklahoma City, Loveless apparently does do shoes, too. Added at the recommendation of Mr. Di Liberti below.
 -- A venerable New York City firm specializing in equestrian boots, Vogel also makes custom shoes. They're not made to the standards of the very best makers, but forum member TimelessRider believes that they are a reasonable value.
*Other*

*Janne Melkersson* -- Based in small town in Sweden, Janne's claim to fame, other than his beautiful shoes, is the fact that he trained with Coleman, TX bootmaker Tex Robin. How many Swedes do you know who could make cowboy boots?
*J.P. Myhre* -- Jan is based in Oslo, Norway and trained at Lobb St. James. As some of you may recognize, he has recently joined AAAC and has written a number of excellent posts about shoemaking.
*Andrew MacDonald* -- An Australian maker who I believe trained at Lobb St. James. As you can see from looking at his website, a lot of the shoes he produces are a bit fashion-forward, but it appears that he is perfectly capable of turning out a properly hand-made traditional bespoke shoe.

*Revision History*

3/18/2006 10:45AM -- Added Lattanzi and Andrew MacDonald.
3/18/2006 5:05PM -- Added Altan.
3/19/2006 2:55PM -- Added comment about Edward Green and Gaziano Girling, added Loveless Custom Boots and Shoes, changed format for revision history, added disclaimer.
3/20/2006 7:00PM -- Added annual production estimates for Lobb St. James, Cleverley, and Edward Green. Added more details about impending sale of EG's bespoke operation to Gaziano Girling.
3/22/2006 7:45PM -- Added E. Vogel, Ducker & Son.
5/14/2006 5:10PM -- Added Delos and Carmina, updated Aubercy.
8/16/2008 10:19AM -- Added Koronya
9/20/2008 6:57AM -- Added Foster website link; updated info


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## briiian13

This page added to my Favorites. Thanks jcusey.


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## bengal-stripe

> quote:_Originally posted by jcusey_
> 
> How many Swedes do you know who could make cowboy boots?


O.K. heâ€™s not a Swede, but Bestetti also shows cowboy boots on his website:

I have no idea how â€œcorrectâ€ they are, stylistically.
I suppose only people in Texas are the true connoisseurs of cowboy boots
and can judge that sort of thing.


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## Trimmer

James Taylor in Marylebone, London could be added to the list.

They specialize in 'status' enhancing shoes and other special needs. The shop is a liitle gem.





Trimmer


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## Horace

How many bespoke pair of shoes have you commissioned jcusey?

edit: typo, alas.


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## Aus_MD

Thank you John.

For an antipodean perspective Andrew McDonald, from Sydney, might be added. Fashion forward, and Blake welt construction.

Aus_MD


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## bystander

jcusey, what do you think of Ducker and Son, Turl St, Oxford? Should this shoemaker be on the list? 
url:


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## medwards

Do they make bespoke?


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## bystander

medwards, I am also not clear on this point. Perhaps jcusey might know.


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## Alexander Kabbaz

This should be permanently on the home page right along with Medwards Savile Row index. Fantastic piece.

Horace: Is there some relevance to your inquiry? Seems like another one of those "Manton: How many books are in your library?" questions.

*https://www.CustomShirt1.com

Kabbaz-Kelly & Sons Fine Custom Clothiers
* Bespoke Shirts & Furnishings * Zimmerli Swiss Underwear **
* Alex Begg Cashmere * Pantherella Socks **​


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## Mr. Di Liberti

*Loveless* 4400 SW 21st Street Oklahoma City, OK. Loveless Custom Boots and Shoes is a family owned business that has been custom making quality footwear for over 28 years. Gary Loveless CO, CPed is a certified Orthotist and Pedorthist from Northwestern University Medical School in Chicago.

Anthony

Courtesy is as much a mark of a gentleman as courage ~ Theodore Roosevelt


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## jcusey

> quote:_Originally posted by bengal-stripe_
> 
> O.K. heâ€™s not a Swede, but Bestetti also shows cowboy boots on his website:


I believe that Bestetti also trained with a Texas bootmaker for a time. The boots look authentic to me, although I have to wonder how many he sells in Milan.



> quote:
> I suppose only people in Texas are the true connoisseurs of cowboy boots
> and can judge that sort of thing.


Oh, heaven forbid! There are excellent bootmakers all over the United States. It just so happens that the concentration is greater in Texas than elsewhere.


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## jcusey

> quote:_Originally posted by Aus_MD_
> 
> For an antipodean perspective Andrew McDonald, from Sydney, might be added. Fashion forward, and Blake welt construction.


Ah, yes, thank you. I had forgotten about him. If I recall correctly, he also is a Lobb St. James alumnus. His website indicates that he has various different constrution methods available, including hand-welting and Blake.


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## Roger

Where the hell is Lattanzi?

_Edit:_ Also, John, could Dimitri Gomez have designed the relatively new C&J 348 last now being seen in regular-grade C&J shoes?

Vancouver


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## archduke

There is an English shoemaker whose name I forget but who is used by Nick Foulkes, the journalist and commentator and dandy (who is also mad on Huntsman). Anyone know who it is? He is base outside London.


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## qasimkhan

Being a proud Oklahoman who has relocated to Kazakstan, it does my heart good to see an Oklahoman bespoke shoe maker. Just wondered if anyone could comment on the quality of leather used and work done. Anthony, have you had shoes made there? How much do they run?

If they are good, I might have a pair made next time I'm in the States.

Steve



> quote:_Originally posted by Mr. Di Liberti_
> 
> *Loveless* 4400 SW 21st Street Oklahoma City, OK. Loveless Custom Boots and Shoes is a family owned business that has been custom making quality footwear for over 28 years. Gary Loveless CO, CPed is a certified Orthotist and Pedorthist from Northwestern University Medical School in Chicago.
> 
> Anthony
> 
> Courtesy is as much a mark of a gentleman as courage ~ Theodore Roosevelt


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## jcusey

> quote:_Originally posted by bystander_
> 
> medwards, I am also not clear on this point. Perhaps jcusey might know.


I certainly am not clear on this point. There's nothing on their website that I can find that indicates what their manufacturing process is like, and I doubt that it would be possible to get a legitimate bespoke shoe in England for the prices they're charging. But I have no particular knowledge about them.


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## jcusey

> quote:_Originally posted by Roger_
> 
> Where the hell is Lattanzi?


Simmer down, simmer down. I added them.



> quote:
> _Edit:_ Also, John, could Dimitri Gomez have designed the relatively new C&J 348 last now being seen in regular-grade C&J shoes?


I don't know. I have not seen shoes made on 348 in person, but it appears from pictures to be a shapely and stylish last and to be in keeping with the aesthetic of Gomez's 337 last.


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## jcusey

> quote:_Originally posted by archduke_
> 
> There is an English shoemaker whose name I forget but who is used by Nick Foulkes, the journalist and commentator and dandy (who is also mad on Huntsman). Anyone know who it is? He is base outside London.


I believe that the guy's name is Eric Cook. I'm afraid that I don't know much about him. Anybody? Anybody? Bueller?


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## bengal-stripe

> quote:_Originally posted by archduke_
> 
> There is an English shoemaker whose name I forget but who is used by Nick Foulkes,.....Anyone know who it is? He is base outside London.


That's the elusive *Eric Cook* who, apart from one member here (was it pertch?), nobody has ever seen.


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## Vik

Ducker do make bespoke - my little brother has 3 pairs...rather beautiful they are too...



> quote:_Originally posted by jcusey_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> quote:_Originally posted by bystander_
> 
> medwards, I am also not clear on this point. Perhaps jcusey might know.
> 
> 
> 
> I certainly am not clear on this point. There's nothing on their website that I can find that indicates what their manufacturing process is like, and I doubt that it would be possible to get a legitimate bespoke shoe in England for the prices they're charging. But I have no particular knowledge about them.
Click to expand...

Vik


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## bwep

Thanks John!

"...always aspire to live simply and elegantly." - Madeleine Finn


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## bengal-stripe

> quote:_Originally posted by Vik_
> 
> Ducker do make bespoke -


Until recently Ducker were the agents for Grensonâ€™s made-to-measure/bespoke program (now discontinued).

I have no idea, whether they have currently a bespoke program of their own.


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## Rich

> quote:_Originally posted by jcusey_
> 
> *France*
> 
> *John Lobb Paris* -- One of the most expensive bespoke shoemakers in the world. The samples I have seen are exquisite. The typical Lobb Paris shoe has a British design imbued with typical French flair.
> *Berluti* -- Pay no attention to those overpriced abomonations RTW shoes bearing the Berluti label. Berluti bespoke shoes are the real deal. They may be fashion forward, just like the Berluti RTW shoes, but Berluti's dedication to fit and their quality of construction is reputedly excellent.
> *Aubercy* -- Aubercy's RTW shoes share an aesthetic with Berluti, and so do their bespoke shoes. I believe that the man who started Aubercy's bespoke program is an alumnus of Berluti bespoke, and the aesthetic, prices, and quality of Aubercy bespoke is similar.
> -- Owned and operated by the brothers Corthay. Probably not as fashion-forward as Berluti or Aubercy, but more so than just about anything coming out of Britain.
> -- I believe that Gomez holds the same sort of position at Crockett & Jones that Tony Gaziano holds at Edward Green: in addition to running a bespoke business, he also develops RTW lasts. Where Tony developed the EG 888 and 82 lasts, Gomez developed the C&J 337 last. I know next to nothing about Gomez's bespoke business, but the shoes look beautiful.
> 
> Edit: Added Lattanzi and Andrew MacDonald.


You really should add Carmina and Altan Bottier to the French list, although Carmina (Miguel Fonte) is Spanish and Altan (Sukru Sensozlu) is Turkish. Both, however, are based in Paris. Carmina do cordovan.


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## jcusey

> quote:_Originally posted by Rich_
> 
> You really should add Carmina and Altan Bottier to the French list, although Carmina (Miguel Fonte) is Spanish and Altan (Sukru Sensozlu) is Turkish. Both, however, are based in Paris. Carmina do cordovan.


I see from that they do "grande mesure," or bespoke, but does Carmina? I thought that they were exclusively RTW.


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## Benedict Spinola

Ducker & Son certainly still make bespoke. I saw a pair of behemoths made for a person with a foot deformity in their shop late last year.


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## morgan

https://www.carreducker.com/

Do they count? I've had a chat with them via email and they seem very accommodating, but I haven't actually commissioned a pair of bespoke shoes from them.

Bengal-Stripe is right, pertch was the chap who'd seen Eric Cook. I have a number for him somewhere, but he seemed from pertch's long, informative post, a bit too capricious to be worth calling.

'Uncle Edouard said a gentleman's shoes should never carry too much shine.'


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## Teacher

> quote:_Originally posted by jcusey_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> quote:_Originally posted by bengal-stripe_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose only people in Texas are the true connoisseurs of cowboy boots
> and can judge that sort of thing.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, heaven forbid! There are excellent bootmakers all over the United States. It just so happens that the concentration is greater in Texas than elsewhere.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes. There's even a (reputedly) highly-respected one in Minot, North Dakota. He's the brother of my cobbler. While I haven't seen the bootmaker's work, they trained together, and my cobbler is _excellent_.
> 
> Excellent post, John. All your work and expertise are greatly appreciated by us all!
Click to expand...


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## qasimkhan

After looking at the Loveless link mentioned below, it seems that they specialize in exotic leathers. They don't even list calfskin on their price list. Anthony, have you gotten calfskin shoes from Loveless?

Steve



> quote:_Originally posted by Mr. Di Liberti_
> 
> *Loveless* 4400 SW 21st Street Oklahoma City, OK. Loveless Custom Boots and Shoes is a family owned business that has been custom making quality footwear for over 28 years. Gary Loveless CO, CPed is a certified Orthotist and Pedorthist from Northwestern University Medical School in Chicago.
> 
> Anthony
> 
> Courtesy is as much a mark of a gentleman as courage ~ Theodore Roosevelt


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## Roger

Yes, I echo Teacher's sentiments--really excellent. It should be pinned when fully completed. This thread is a nice companion piece, John, to your earlier _Ready to Wear (RTW) Shoe Pyramid _ that I believe is in Andy's _Encyclopedia_.

Would you be up for expanding this earlier, very useful RTW piece? It could be done in a format like that above for the bespoke--by country of manufacture, rather than mixed as in the earlier one. With your unparalleled knowledge of construction and quality, this listing could, perhaps, be done in a (somewhat subjective) order of quality. It wouldn't have to be exhaustive, but could be a little more extensive than the earlier one, and, with organization by country, perhaps a little different.

The listing could start with England and could include: JL Paris (since made in England), EG, Cleverley, C&J, Grenson, Church's, Sargent, Tricker's, Cheaney, Loake (and perhaps a few more). It could go on to France and include Weston, Corthay, Berluti, Aubercy, Mephisto, and undoubtedly others; then Italy and Lattanzi, Kiton, Santoni, Branchini, StefanoBi, Sutor Mantellassi, Artioli, Testoni, Gravati, Martegani, Borgioli, Bruno Magli, Mezlan, and then the ones made by others for names like Brioni, Borrelli, Ferragamo, Gucci, Prada, Canali, Zegna, Boss, Armani, etc. We could then have something the "rest of Europe," and Vass, Saint Crispin's, Albaladejo (now Carmina, I guess), Yanko, Josef Seibel, and some Austrian and German lines I don't know much about. Then the USA and Alden, Allen-Edmonds, Johnston & Murphy, Florsheim, Cole Haan, Donald Pliner, Bostonian (even though many of the shoes are made outside the US), etc., and finally "Other."

Forumers could add names to this list.  Really most anyone who knows anything about shoes could suggest names for such a list, but what is needed (and only available from people with really extensive shoe knowledge) is experience-based, knowledgeable annotation and rough rankings. Inclusion of approximate prices or price ranges would be immensely helpful too. Such an annotated listing of RTW would also be a candidate for pinning.

You're the obvious guy to organize and oversee this, John; are you up for it? Perhaps we could all pitch in and help. 

Vancouver


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## Mr. Di Liberti

Hey Steve,

French Calf is fourth from the top - -on the price list.

Anthony

Courtesy is as much a mark of a gentleman as courage ~ Theodore Roosevelt


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## Alexander Kabbaz

> quote:You're the obvious guy to organize and oversee this, John; are you up for it?


 Great News! I've just spoken with him and he assures me that he is more than up to the task!!! Bring on the suggestions. John, I'm sure, will be positively thrilled to fulfill your wildest dreams in this regard. [}] [}] [}]

*https://www.CustomShirt1.com

Kabbaz-Kelly & Sons Fine Custom Clothiers
* Bespoke Shirts & Furnishings * Zimmerli Swiss Underwear **
* Alex Begg Cashmere * Pantherella Socks **​


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## Roger

> quote:_Originally posted by Alexander Kabbaz_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> quote:You're the obvious guy to organize and oversee this, John; are you up for it?
> 
> 
> 
> Great News! I've just spoken with him and he assures me that he is more than up to the task!!! Bring on the suggestions. John, I'm sure, will be positively thrilled to fulfill your wildest dreams in this regard. [}] [}] [}]
Click to expand...

 This sounds like a willingness to help. I believe that the sarcasm here may reflect an unconsciously-motivated cry for inclusion in the work to be done! And I believe John knows his civic duty. 

Vancouver


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## Mr. Di Liberti

> quote:_Originally posted by qasimkhan_
> 
> Anthony, have you gotten calfskin shoes from Loveless?
> 
> Steve


Steve,

No, not as of yet. I'll be flying to Oklahoma late January next year to be fit for a custom last and order my first pair of shoes made by them.

Anthony

Courtesy is as much a mark of a gentleman as courage ~ Theodore Roosevelt


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## Horace

> quote:_Originally posted by Alexander Kabbaz_
> 
> Horace: Is there some relevance to your inquiry? Seems like another one of those "Manton: How many books are in your library?" questions.


Yes, I think there's relevance. Though completely unnecessary when compiling this list, actual experience of the makers above would be of interest to those reading it.


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## medwards

JC:

Some UK resources as you follow-up on Roger's suggestion and continue to develop your ready-to-wear listing :

*England*

Barker --

Cheaney -- https://www.cheaney.co.uk/

Church's --

Cleverley -- https://www.gjcleverley.com/

Crockett & Jones -- https://www.crockettandjones.co.uk/

Ducker & Sons --

Edward Green -- https://www.edwardgreen.co.uk/

Grenson --

Loake -- https://www.loake.co.uk/

John Lobb (Paris) --

New & Lingwood -- https://www.newandlingwood.com/

Alfred Sargent -- https://www.alfredsargent.co.uk/

Schnieder Boots --

James Taylor & Son --

Tricker's -- https://www.trickers.com/


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## Alexander Kabbaz

> quote:*HORACE* Yes, I think there's relevance. Though completely unnecessary when compiling this list, actual experience of the makers above would be of interest to those reading it.


 Glad to hear this. It makes sense. Hearing experiences when working with makers is always of interest.

Tell me, though. Are you confused? I don't quite know what question you are answering here. What does experience with makers have to do with how many pairs of shoes John has commissioned? Or, as it more likely reads, were you merely trying to insinuate doubt as to his credentials in authoring this wonderful piece?

To refresh your memory, here was your entire post:



> quote: How many bespoke pair of shoes have you commissioned jcusey?


*https://www.CustomShirt1.com

Kabbaz-Kelly & Sons Fine Custom Clothiers
* Bespoke Shirts & Furnishings * Zimmerli Swiss Underwear **
* Alex Begg Cashmere * Pantherella Socks **​


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## qasimkhan

Anthony,

Thanks for pointing that out. Don't know how I missed it. I'll be very eager to hear what you think of your shoes. Be sure to post it and let us know how they turn out, even better give us some pictures.

Steve



> quote:_Originally posted by Mr. Di Liberti_
> 
> Hey Steve,
> 
> French Calf is fourth from the top - -on the price list.
> 
> Anthony
> 
> Courtesy is as much a mark of a gentleman as courage ~ Theodore Roosevelt


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## rick lombardo

This has been a real treat JCussy. Thanks for all the names and info. I have gone to some of the sites and saved my favourite pics. and now use them as a slideshow on my screensaver. I am going to soon dive into the world of bespoke shoes.


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## jcusey

> quote:_Originally posted by Roger_
> 
> Would you be up for expanding this earlier, very useful RTW piece? It could be done in a format like that above for the bespoke--by country of manufacture, rather than mixed as in the earlier one.


Sure. I'll work on it. And thanks to both you and medwards for an initial list of candidates.


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## Roger

> quote:_Originally posted by jcusey_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> quote:_Originally posted by Roger_
> 
> Would you be up for expanding this earlier, very useful RTW piece? It could be done in a format like that above for the bespoke--by country of manufacture, rather than mixed as in the earlier one.
> 
> 
> 
> Sure. I'll work on it. And thanks to both you and medwards for an initial list of candidates.
Click to expand...

Let me know if I can help (although my general ignorance of the subject should probably disqualify me). However, be sure to get Kabbaz to do some of the grunt work. 

Vancouver


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## Alexander Kabbaz

> quote:_Originally posted by Roger_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> quote:_Originally posted by jcusey_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> quote:_Originally posted by Roger_
> 
> Would you be up for expanding this earlier, very useful RTW piece? It could be done in a format like that above for the bespoke--by country of manufacture, rather than mixed as in the earlier one.
> 
> 
> 
> Sure. I'll work on it. And thanks to both you and medwards for an initial list of candidates.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Let me know if I can help (although my general ignorance of the subject should probably disqualify me). However, be sure to get Kabbaz to do some of the grunt work.
> 
> Vancouver
Click to expand...

You may claim ignorance. With a bit of digging through my history files I, on the other hand, can prove it:

​
Whew! Wiggled out of that one.

*https://www.CustomShirt1.com

Kabbaz-Kelly & Sons Fine Custom Clothiers
* Bespoke Shirts & Furnishings * Zimmerli Swiss Underwear **
* Alex Begg Cashmere * Pantherella Socks **​


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## Teacher

I have a pair of those!


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## jcusey

> quote:_Originally posted by Teacher_
> 
> I have a pair of those!


Damn it, Kabbaz. You told me that that pair you sold me was unique!


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## duster

There's a woman bespoke shoemaker in Venice, just across the little bridge north of La Fenice--her shoes looked very interesting, and I believe she trained with a now retired shoemaker at the same location. The show window alone was worth thr trip. There's also Rolando Segalin--I've read about him, but never seen his shop. Someone going to Venice may be able to get more information.


----------



## janne melkersson

"Oh, heaven forbid! There are excellent bootmakers all over the United States. It just so happens that the concentration is greater in Texas than elsewhere"

jcusey,
I eccho that! Here is the address where you can find makers around the U.S. 

An interesting note about the cowboy boot or as we call it in the trade, side-seamed boots; A couple of miles from our place there was a bootmaker making side-seamed boots in the beginning of the 1850's. He made them pretty much the same ways as todays cowboy boots but without all the fancy top stitches. However, in a museum in Stockholm I found a four pice top boot with fancy stitches made by a Stockholm maker in 1873. I have until today never seen such a beautiful work on a boot. 

Not only the Northampton museum in England have a large collection of handmade footwear. I guess if you ask the nearest museum they could put on the table some beautiful footwear. Sometimes I visit museums to be inspired by the old guys and to be honest the old masters made shoes in a way that todays makers, me included, have a hard time to copy.


----------



## medwards

Janne: I was very surprised to see how many makers of custom "western" boots there are. How different is the process for crafting such boots than other types of boots or men's dress shoes?


----------



## janne melkersson

> quote:_Originally posted by medwards_
> 
> Janne: I was very surprised to see how many makers of custom "western" boots there are. How different is the process for crafting such boots than other types of boots or men's dress shoes?


Except all the fancy top stitches, overlays and inlays on western boots there is no big different regarding the making. One thing though, most US bootmakers pegs the shank instead of sew it as we do in Europe. A riding cowboy need a stiff shank which will alowe him to stand in the stirrup. The pegs makes the construction stronger, at least that is the teory behind it. Once and a while you can see an Europen shoe or boot peged the same way, recently a nice shoe made by an Italian maker was presented on the Style Forum.

Anyhow, side seamed boots is one of the oldest style of footwear we still have made today. Here is the address where a boot from 1820 is shown https://locutus.ucr.edu/~cathy/rd/rd30.html This was a boot for gentleman at that time and in my mind it still is!


----------



## jcusey

> quote:_Originally posted by Roger_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> quote:_Originally posted by jcusey_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> quote:_Originally posted by Roger_
> 
> Would you be up for expanding this earlier, very useful RTW piece? It could be done in a format like that above for the bespoke--by country of manufacture, rather than mixed as in the earlier one.
> 
> 
> 
> Sure. I'll work on it. And thanks to both you and medwards for an initial list of candidates.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Let me know if I can help (although my general ignorance of the subject should probably disqualify me). However, be sure to get Kabbaz to do some of the grunt work.
> 
> Vancouver
Click to expand...

It's up now .


----------



## jcusey

> quote:_Originally posted by janne melkersson_
> 
> Anyhow, side seamed boots is one of the oldest style of footwear we still have made today. Here is the address where a boot from 1820 is shown https://locutus.ucr.edu/~cathy/rd/rd30.html This was a boot for gentleman at that time and in my mind it still is!


Thanks, Janne. What is a honest-to-goodness Wellington boot but a side-seamed cowboy-styled boot without the underslung heel or the embellishment? See this example from John Lobb St. James:


----------



## Alexander Kabbaz

> quote:There's a woman bespoke shoemaker in Venice, just across the little bridge north of La Fenice--her shoes looked very interesting, and I believe she trained with a now retired shoemaker at the same location. The show window alone was worth thr trip.


 Thanks to JCusey's education of the distaff side of my family, I am now forced to ask whether this woman shoemaker is also a woman's shoemaker. And if not, does anyone know of one? Thank you, John. Your turn will come.

*https://www.CustomShirt1.com

Kabbaz-Kelly & Sons Fine Custom Clothiers
* Bespoke Shirts & Furnishings * Zimmerli Swiss Underwear **
* Alex Begg Cashmere * Pantherella Socks **​


----------



## medwards

Alex, are you only enquiring about a woman's shoemaker who is also female or just a maker of women's bespoke shoes regardless of the craftperson's gender? If the latter, John Lobb St. James's has been fashioning women's bespoke footwear for a very long time.


----------



## jcusey

> quote:_Originally posted by medwards_
> 
> Alex, are you only enquiring about a woman's shoemaker who is also female or just a maker of women's bespoke shoes regardless of the craftperson's gender? If the latter, John Lobb St. James's has been fashioning women's bespoke footwear for a very long time.


If I recall correctly, the "distaff" side of Kabbaz's family is looking for something a little less, ah, _solid_ than most of JL St. James's offerings.


----------



## medwards

You mean something less typical of the headmistress of a country girls school or the captain of the local all-girls hockey club? Not quite Aunt Agatha, I see.  Hmmmmmm. You undoubtedly have a point.


----------



## duster

Alex, she certainly made men's shoes. I think she may have made women's as well. I'm surprised that no one else seems to have heard of her, and I'm sorry not to have more information. I once had her card, but no longer. I passed through Venice last month and saw that she was still in business.


----------



## Alexander Kabbaz

> quote:If I recall correctly, the "distaff" side of Kabbaz's family is looking for something a little less, ah, solid than most of JL St. James's offerings.


 That's correct. Roman makes similar "solid" women's bespoke shoes ... all of which were - umm - rejected.


> quote:You mean something less typical of the headmistress of a country girls school or the captain of the local all-girls hockey club? Not quite Aunt Agatha, I see. Hmmmmmm. You undoubtedly have a point.


 You don't seem to understand. An inability on my part to solve this problem may cause *my* shoe budget to revert to $0. This is no laughing winking matter!


> quote:Alex, she certainly made men's shoes. I think she may have made women's as well. I'm surprised that no one else seems to have heard of her, and I'm sorry not to have more information. I once had her card, but no longer. I passed through Venice last month and saw that she was still in business.


 Well, if you pass through again ... please grab a card. The situation is dire.

*https://www.CustomShirt1.com

Kabbaz-Kelly & Sons Fine Custom Clothiers
* Bespoke Shirts & Furnishings * Zimmerli Swiss Underwear **
* Alex Begg Cashmere * Pantherella Socks **​


----------



## EU-Flaneur

How could you forget Stefano Branchini of Bologna, Italy?


----------



## TE Hesketh

Just to add some regional shoemakers from the UK:-

Bill Bird Shoes	www.madetomeasureshoes.co.uk/

The Cordwainer	www.thecordwainer.co.uk/

Baboucha www.baboucha.com/bespoke_shoes.htm

And in London,

Anello & Davide www.handmadeshoes.co.uk

Regards

Rob


----------



## jcusey

> quote:_Originally posted by EU-Flaneur_
> 
> How could you forget Stefano Branchini of Bologna, Italy?


Does Branchini do bespoke? I thought they just did RTW.


----------



## JBZ

jcusey:

Great thread! Under U.S. makers, what about E. Vogel? I have no experience with them, but I thought they'd be a good addition (particularly since the number of U.S. makers is, unfortunately, kind of sparse).


----------



## Trimmer

> quote:_Originally posted by bengal-stripe_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> quote:_Originally posted by Vik_
> 
> Ducker do make bespoke -
> 
> 
> 
> Until recently Ducker were the agents for Grensonâ€™s made-to-measure/bespoke program (now discontinued).
> 
> I have no idea, whether they have currently a bespoke program of their own.
Click to expand...

*I walked past Duckers yesterday evening just after they had closed. There is a notice (in fact two notices) in the window saying they do bespoke work.

Trimmer*


----------



## medwards

> quote:_Originally posted by jcusey_
> [*]*Aubercy* -- Aubercy's RTW shoes share an aesthetic with Berluti, and so do their bespoke shoes. I believe that the man who started Aubercy's bespoke program is an alumnus of Berluti bespoke, and the aesthetic, prices, and quality of Aubercy bespoke is similar.


JC: I believe this link will take you directly to Aubercy's separate bespoke site:


----------



## Threepwood

I visited the loveless showroom here in OKC for the second time and am impressed with thier approach to footwear. Because Brandon Loveless approached his craft from a medical perspective I am hoping to have a shoe built not only to fit my feet properly but to correct any imperfections in my arch ect.. The make a lot of shoes for unfortunate people stricken with deformity or disease. It appears they have the abillity to craft any shoe style desired. I will order my first pair within the next few days and share the experience and photo's with the forum. Loveless sells custom shoes all over the country. The interior lining of the shoe has a different and deeper padding than any I have seen. I am concerned , however,with thier abillity to match the artistry of my favorite makers. as an aside not far from them at the OKC stockyard retail area saddles, tack, western wear. ect... I found a store which stocks filson and next door was an expert hat maker whos cowboy hats start at $500 he offered to make me a trillby(sp) and I may end up ordering one. This website has created a bespoke craving monster. My name is ________ and Im a clothsaholic.


----------



## Concordia

A note on The London Shoemaker, a/k/a Paul Davies.

He is indeed ex-Cleverley, and quite possibly the guy who cut your last if you started with them in the last decade or so. I'm halfway through the order cycle with him, and to my untrained eye there is nothing to distinguish his work and Cleverley's. This in contrast to Tony Gaziano, who has his own distinct signature style.

We'll know more when the finished goods are shipped in May. But based on this limited sample and a few photos of recently-finished shoes, he's off to a good start.

A word of caution for the risk-averse: Paul's firm carries the start-up risk inherent in a new, one-man shop. But he does come to NYC four times a year (not just two), and is not just skillful but also eager to do right by his clients. I'm hoping he continues to work out. A Darren-type flameout appears unlikely at present.


----------



## jcusey

Added Delos and Carmina, edited Aubercy entry.


----------



## medwards

*Thank you for this thread*

jcusey: I just wanted you to know how much this thread -- and your contnuing efforts to keep it updated -- are appreciated. Thank you.


----------



## bengal-stripe

Now here is Alex Kabbaz, designing a shoe for shirt makers:
​
And here is the completed shoe, produced by Peron & Peron, published in the current edition of LAST.









*Quite a success!!!*


----------



## Mr. Chatterbox

*Cleverley images?*



jcusey said:


> [*] -- formed by George Glasgow and John Carnera, associates of GJ Cleverley at New & Lingwood, after Cleverley's death in the early 1990s, the most renowned maker the chisel-toe shoes (although there are many others who do this now) that Cleverley so loved. GJ Cleverley also has the right of first refusal on Russian reindeer hides salvaged from the wreck of the , sunk in 1786. Annual production probably around 400 pairs.


In addition to the images on the Cleverley website, are there other photographs of Cleverley's bespoke work on the web?


----------



## medwards

Mr. Chatterbox said:


> In addition to the images on the Cleverley website, are there other photographs of Cleverley's bespoke work on the web?


Indeed there are. In addition to a number of Japanese shoe porn sites (https://centipede.web.fc2.com/ , for example), I have posted a few images here on this Forum in the past. But here are just a couple of examples from my closet. The first photograph includes (from left to right) a semi-brogue oxford in black calf, a patent leather evening oxford shoe, and a burnt chestnut monk strap. The apparent lines on the patent leather shoe are just a reflection of the camera flash. The second photo includes an antique chestnut adelaide oxford, a chocolate brown cap-toe oxford, a London tan full brogue oxford. It is probably worth noting that Cleverley's antique chjestnut is a very different colour leather than Edward Green's antique chestnut...the latter having orange and yellow hues whereas the Cleverley colour is a deep reddish brown.


----------



## Thracozaag

I would like to add another wonderful Florentine cobbler to Jcusey's excellent list: Mannina. His workshop is located at Via de' Barbadori, 23-25r.
The next time I go back, I'm definitely commissioning a pair--the Norvegese double monk strap he was proudly showing me the stitching on was exquisite, and he does all the work himself, apparently (I didn't see any other workers in his shop). He said half his clients are actually japanese.

koji


----------



## medwards

Koji...Here's a rather interesting Japanese webarticle on Mannina that you and others might find of interest.


----------



## Thracozaag

medwards said:


> Koji...Here's a rather interesting Japanese webarticle on Mannina that you and others might find of interest.


 Thank you so much for this! I can only reiterate what the author of this article stated regarding Signor Mannina's warm, friendly and passionate demeanour.

koji


----------



## Alexander Kabbaz

I can't believe they *STOLE* my frigging shoe!!! Square toes and all. 

Thanks Bengal-Stripe.

This must be some sort of malfeasance on the part of JCusey. You just wait fellow. I'm gonna make a leather Chuka Shirt with buckles. And I'm gonna give it to a Monk in slippers at next year's Oxford derby.

​


----------



## jcusey

Alexander Kabbaz said:


> I can't believe they *STOLE* my frigging shoe!!! Square toes and all.


A likely story, Kabbaz. The next thing you'll be telling us is that you made the Gekko shirts in _Wall Street_.


----------



## jcusey

Mr. Chatterbox said:


> In addition to the images on the Cleverley website, are there other photographs of Cleverley's bespoke work on the web?


See here for some Russian reindeer Cleverleys.


----------



## jcusey

Thracozaag said:


> I would like to add another wonderful Florentine cobbler to Jcusey's excellent list: Mannina. His workshop is located at Via de' Barbadori, 23-25r.


Thank you, Koji, and thank you for the article, medwards (who continues to prove his worth even after the search function began working after the migration ).



> The next time I go back, I'm definitely commissioning a pair--the Norvegese double monk strap he was proudly showing me the stitching on was exquisite, and he does all the work himself, apparently (I didn't see any other workers in his shop). He said half his clients are actually japanese.


This is not surprising. I wonder how many bespoke makers would be out of business if it weren't for Japanese (and, to a lesser extent, American) customers.


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## Thracozaag

Where was that bespoke japanese maker with my namesake located at? I seem to recall it was Osaka?

koji


----------



## medwards

Koji Suzuki?

He is a very skilled and respected shoemaker. As jcusey notes in his introductory comments on the first item in this thread, there consequently is a very long waiting list for his work. In the meantime, here are some wonderful examples of his craftmanship:



Item #7 on the following linked site should provide some additional examples.



And just a bit more:


----------



## Thracozaag

Thanks! I'm going to try and check his workshop out when I'm in Japan this summer (hopefully take some pics as well for you guys).

koji


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## medwards

Thank you, Koji. That would be wonderful. All reports are that he is a wonderful craftsman..but little known by most.


----------



## fritzl

*Maftei, Vienna*

Not to forget Maftei in Vienna. www.maftei.at


----------



## medwards

*Gaziano & Girling website*



jcusey said:


> [*] -- Edward Green's bespoke business is under the management of Tony Gaziano, formerly of GJ Cleverley. Tony is probably the most maker of the most shapely chisel-toe shoes being made in England today. Annual production around 100 pairs. According to , Tony and Edward Green will be going their separate ways in September 2006; and Tony will be starting his own firm named *Gaziano Girling* at that time. The Girling in Gaziano Girling is David Girling, who is one of the bespoke makers (ie, the artisan who handsews the welt to the upper and insole and again to the sole) in London. Gaziano Girling will be buying the EG bespoke operation, which means that the samples, the client book, and the lasts (subject to approval of the clients) will go with Tony.


I see that Tony has establish a website for his new venture, though it is still under construction:

https://www.gazianogirling.com/


----------



## medwards

*Gaziano & Girling*

Gaziano & Girling is now operational as is its website linked above.


----------



## jcusey

Thanks to andreyb, I note that the */* website is now operational.

(Unfortunately, vBulletin seems not to like the original post -- I can't edit it. Oh, well. Maybe the next version of vBulletin.)


----------



## adamb

my first post here...just back from firenze where i was measured by sr. bemer. had to leave for zurich and then the states, so i'll have to return in november for a first fitting, to verify the accuracy of the last &c. (always good to have a really *practical* excuse: "i have to fly to firenze, maestro bemer is waiting!") in addition to his atelier in borgo s. frediano, he has a ready-to-wear shop round the corner in via di camaldoli, where he took me for a peek, and where i purchased a pair of alligator casuals - alligator with rubber soles, imagine! he's an iconclast and a man of some discernment: parked in the shop is an impeccably-restored fiat innocenti mini woody, late 60's i estimate. sr. bemer is well-known amongst florentines who know: a friend actually recognized his work when i wore the gators, which are a nearly perfect fit (he fitted them with special insoles on the spot.) i'll know more about his bespoke work after november, but i was very impressed with the man and the shoes i saw, which run the gamut from traditional to spectacularly individual, and which i think is well worth the cost (not for the faint of heart) and the difficulty of finding stefano - he travels often and can be hard to get in the atelier. well...hope i haven't worn you all out with this rather prolix first effort.


----------



## Mr. Chatterbox

Welcome and thank you for sharing this information. We look forward to your next report!


----------



## erasmus

*Aftercare services*

Based on what I've seen, MTM and bespoke tailors often provide what are essentially complimentary lifetime alterations and pressing as part of the purchase price of a custom garment.

Does a similar arrangement typically apply to bespoke shoes? If so, what is the typical aftercare service provided by bespoke shoemakers? I imagine complimentary cleaning, stripping, waxing/shine but might this even include new heels, resoling or even relasting?

I'm particularly interested if any bespoke shoemaker offers the latter set of aftercare services as part of the purchase price.


----------



## manton

erasmus said:


> might this even include new heels, resoling or even relasting?


Every bespoke maker I have used charges for these services -- a lot.


----------



## Will

erasmus said:


> What is the typical aftercare service provided by bespoke shoemakers?


The typical aftercare service is that they will charge you more than the cost of a pair of EGs to re-make a pair when they require it.


----------



## asaffi

*I would like to add*

Pellegrini, a italian shoemaker, stablished here in Brazil since 1902. Although I don't like his lasts, (I prefer a more triangular last) He is highly regarded as a bespoke shoemaker, and his prices are nice for an international market. A bespoke shoe would cost around $ 400,00. 
www.pellegrini.com.br

Advice: The photos on the site are bad as it can be. The shoes appear to be found on the garbage can


----------



## jcusey

erasmus said:


> Does a similar arrangement typically apply to bespoke shoes? If so, what is the typical aftercare service provided by bespoke shoemakers? I imagine complimentary cleaning, stripping, waxing/shine but might this even include new heels, resoling or even relasting?


Keep in mind that making (ie, the stitching on of the welt and sole) is the most time-consuming part of the process for a bespoke cordwainer. If a client were not charged for resolings and reheelings, bespoke shoes would be even more prohibitively expensive than they are.


----------



## Pickwick

*Seeking an opinion...*

Like many, I've perused and admired the many wonderful pictures of bespoke shoes, especially the long, slender, and highly beveled ones showing the shoemaker's craft in all its glory.

I'm considering trying a pair of bespoke shoes. However, I would be have second thoughts if the attributes of my foot would preclude me from wearing those elegant bespoke shoes that I've admired.

In US size, I'm somewhere in between an 8C and 8.5D with relatively flat feet. Do you guys think the odds are good that a sleek chiseled toe shoe would work?

Thanks!


----------



## jcusey

Pickwick said:


> I'm considering trying a pair of bespoke shoes. However, I would be have second thoughts if the attributes of my foot would preclude me from wearing those elegant bespoke shoes that I've admired.
> 
> In US size, I'm somewhere in between an 8C and 8.5D with relatively flat feet. Do you guys think the odds are good that a sleek chiseled toe shoe would work?


You have relatively narrow feet, and "sleek chiseled toe shoe" are meant for those with relatively narrow feet. My advice would be to talk to bespoke makers and choose the one that you have confidence in and establish a rapport with. Cleverley and Gaziano Girling make regular trips to San Francisco, and sky's the limit if you're willing to travel.


----------



## Artisan Fan

The beauty of bespoke is that the last looks just like your foot so the fit is perfect. Adjustments are made for flat or arched feet.


----------



## jcusey

Artisan Fan said:


> The beauty of bespoke is that the last looks just like your foot so the fit is perfect. Adjustments are made for flat or arched feet.


No, not really. It is _based_ on the shape of your feet, but it is stylized to improve the aesthetic appearance of the shoes.


----------



## jcusey

jcusey said:


> No, not really. It is _based_ on the shape of your feet, but it is stylized to improve the aesthetic appearan of the shoes.


As an example of this, see this picture of my Edward Green last:

https://img148.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bespokelast2oi1.jpg

You can see the tracing of my foot underneath the last. Notice how the last does not follow the outline of the tracing exactly.


----------



## luk-cha

that is a great pic thank you! i find these kinds of pic the most informative!


----------



## Andre Yew

I've been told that different custom shoemakers will favor different balances of the form vs. fit equation. Tony, I've been told and from speaking to him, favors form more, though that's not to say he neglects the shape of the foot. I've seen examples of custom shoes from other makers that seem to favor fit and were done for a rather large bulbous foot, and they were quite ugly.

--Andre


----------



## jcusey

Andre Yew said:


> I've been told that different custom shoemakers will favor different balances of the form vs. fit equation. Tony, I've been told and from speaking to him, favors form more, though that's not to say he neglects the shape of the foot. I've seen examples of custom shoes from other makers that seem to favor fit and were done for a rather large bulbous foot, and they were quite ugly.


Indeed. If you compare Cleverley's default last shape with Tony's, who is probably Cleverley's nearest stylistic cousin, you'll see that Tony's work is more stylized and follows the shape of the foot less. However, it is worth mentioning that the degree to which any decent lastmaker's work is stylized depends on the client, both his wishes and the shape of his foot. I don't care how good the lastmaker is; if you have EEE feet, you will not get a slim, chiseled-toe creation that actually fits you.


----------



## culverwood

I was pleased to go upstairs on Saturday and see Cleverley's bespoke operation above their shop in London. 

A couple of points:

Two of their craftsmen are Finnish and as luck would have it my son's girlfriend is Finnish and she tells me there is still a strong tradition is shoemaking by hand there. 

Lasts - from what I saw and I may have been wrong, individual's lasts are made by filing down from an oversize generic block. I can understand this being a woodworker myself (I make walking-sticks/canes as a hobby) as the basic shape can be formed by machine and then time and care is taken filing this down to an individual client's last shape.

BTW they said they use British leather for their RTW and German for their bespoke.


----------



## jcusey

culverwood said:


> Lasts - from what I saw and I may have been wrong, individual's lasts are made by filing down from an oversize generic block. I can understand this being a woodworker myself (I make walking-sticks/canes as a hobby) as the basic shape can be formed by machine and then time and care is taken filing this down to an individual client's last shape.


My understanding is that this is standard practice among bespoke shoemakers. Making the last from a big old block of wood may make for good copy, but it's not how it works. Instead, they get last blanks that are generically foot-shaped and go from there. Ultimately, I don't think that it matters. What matters is how closely the finished last fits the actual foot.


----------



## culverwood

I'm sure it does not matter. It would be a waste of time for a skilled last maker to make one from a rectangular block. It was just that not having seen it before it was something I recognised from my own area of woodwork. My respect for the bespoke shoe maker only rose after the visit.


----------



## medwards

*Paolo Scafora Bespoke*

It would seem appropriate to link this discussion to this thread:

https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?t=60064


----------



## medwards

And it would appear appropriate to link this related discusion on _Bespoke Shoe Price/Quality/Price_ as well:

https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?t=60311


----------



## medwards

*Ducker & Son, Oxford*

Another current thread about longtime Oxford shoemakers, Ducker & Son:

https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?t=62423


----------



## medwards

*Lattanzi*



jcusey said:


> [*] -- Based in Casette d'Este but with shops in Rome, Milan, New York, and Hangzhou, Lattanzi is a pioneer in the United States for super-expensive handmade RTW shoes; but he also does bespoke shoes that are reputedly among the best of their type in the world, with a pricetag to match.[/LIST]


In case you missed this small profile on Lattanzi's "poetic" shoes in The Robb Report:


----------



## wcp45

I love Lattanzi's shoes, and have several pair myself. But I wonder whether the inspiration for his "poetry" line came from the Shanghai dinner or from Berluti's hand-scripted shoes? Lattanzi rightly prides himself on being an innovator. In this case, however, he risks being seen as a copycat.


----------



## medwards

*Paolo Scafora*

https://www.paoloscafora.it/

https://www.shibui.eu/scafora.php

https://www.shibui.eu/gallery/scafora/index.html


----------



## jamgood

Prompted by mention of Irish horsemen on another thread > www.tuttyshandmadeshoes.ie (No, I haven't)


----------



## Bog

Koji Suzuki website not working.


----------



## culverwood

Here's a new bespoke shoe making partnership in the UK
https://www.carreducker.com/


----------



## culverwood

*Another new bootmaker*

Micky Chaggar, 
[email protected]

Please find my details above. As you may know I have been the last maker at Foster & Son for the past five years during which time I have had the pleasure of making your last and fitting your shoes. Foster & Son have recently seen fit, because of economic downturn, to make the position of in-house last maker redundant in favour of outsourcing my work. As you will no doubt appreciate as an accomplished young shoemaker I am reluctant to abandon my skill, training and career prospects at this stage of my life.

I would therefore like to take this opportunity to advise you that it is my intention to take on orders for shoes which will be hand made in my workshop. Please be advised that the quality and standard will be of the same high level to which you have been accustomed since to all intent and purpose the shoes will be made from the same hand skill and craftsmanship.

Yours sincerely 
Micky Chaggar

Dear XXX 
Thank you for your reply. Yes please, do tell other people as I am looking to extend my business and client list. You will find my prices are cheaper than Fosters and the end product is more refined and the turn around time is quicker than Fosters as I do not have a backlog. I also have better shoemakers and craftsman working for me and as I am a talented craftsman myself, my skills enable me to push orders through much faster.

P.S. My shoe trees are unique. They are all hand made and hollowed like the Edwardians used to do. To the very highest standard, making the product much more individual than anywhere else.


----------



## medwards

Did not Terry Moore also train Simon Bolzoni as a lastmaker and is he not still at Fosters?


----------



## bengal-stripe

Although I’ve never met Micky Chaggar, I wish him all the best in his future career.

In these days of trainers, sneakers, Crocs and Birkenstocks, everybody, who embarks on a career in classic footwear (be it bespoke or RTW) needs all the support he can get (as well as his head examined).

Of course, with the rise of the internet, today’s craftsmen have opportunities to present their work to a world-wide audience, which previous generations never had. I hope Micky will use these opportunities to show us samples of his work and inform us of work in progress.

Once again, all my best wishes.


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## fritzl

bengal-stripe said:


> Of course, with the rise of the internet, today's craftsmen have opportunities to present their work to a world-wide audience, which previous generations never had. I hope Micky will use these opportunities to show us samples of his work and inform us of work in progress.
> 
> Once again, all my best wishes.


+1, very gentle words


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## gofigure

If this is a newbie question, which it probably is....please bear with me as I was unable to find a thread that talks about this issue. When I buy cheap shoes from Bostonian (or something else that would not never ever compare to the beautiful piece of work culverwood has acquired) it takes time for them to be broken in, where your feet generally hurt as the shoe molds over time to adjust to the shape. 

Since a last is made for bespoke shoes, do they just feel absolutely fantastic from day 1? Thanks very much for your response, looking forward to learn and one day owning my own fleet of bespoke shoes!:icon_smile:


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## Winot

culverwood said:


> Micky Chaggar,
> [email protected]
> 
> Please find my details above. As you may know I have been the last maker at Foster & Son for the past five years during which time I have had the pleasure of making your last and fitting your shoes. Foster & Son have recently seen fit, because of economic downturn, to make the position of in-house last maker redundant in favour of outsourcing my work. As you will no doubt appreciate as an accomplished young shoemaker I am reluctant to abandon my skill, training and career prospects at this stage of my life.
> 
> I would therefore like to take this opportunity to advise you that it is my intention to take on orders for shoes which will be hand made in my workshop. Please be advised that the quality and standard will be of the same high level to which you have been accustomed since to all intent and purpose the shoes will be made from the same hand skill and craftsmanship.
> 
> Yours sincerely
> Micky Chaggar
> 
> Dear XXX
> Thank you for your reply. Yes please, do tell other people as I am looking to extend my business and client list. You will find my prices are cheaper than Fosters and the end product is more refined and the turn around time is quicker than Fosters as I do not have a backlog. I also have better shoemakers and craftsman working for me and as I am a talented craftsman myself, my skills enable me to push orders through much faster.
> 
> P.S. My shoe trees are unique. They are all hand made and hollowed like the Edwardians used to do. To the very highest standard, making the product much more individual than anywhere else.


I'm shocked - I went to be measured for my first pair of shoes less than a month ago and Micky was there and gave no indication that he would be leaving. Perhaps he didn't know. Do you know if Terry Moore is still making lasts in house Culverwood (albeit part time)? I'm not sure I want to have mine outsourced.


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## Eustace Tilley

medwards said:


> Did not Terry Moore also train Simon Bolzoni as a lastmaker and is he not still at Fosters?


Simon Bolzoni has left as well.


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## chrstc

Winot said:


> I'm shocked - I went to be measured for my first pair of shoes less than a month ago and Micky was there and gave no indication that he would be leaving. Perhaps he didn't know. Do you know if Terry Moore is still making lasts in house Culverwood (albeit part time)? I'm not sure I want to have mine outsourced.


Hello,
I totally agree with the sentiment expressed in this post. I was measured for my first pair of shoes on the 10th of April by the wonderful Mr. Moore who has definitely made my lasts and cut my pattern but I honestly can't understand why Fosters would suddenly decide to outsource lastmaking. Given that all the other work is outsourced, the lastmaking is what sets one London shoemaker apart from another. Very troubling news. Please can everybody post back if they get any clarification of this.

Thanks very much,
Chris.


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## culverwood

I'm sorry I do not know if Terry is still making lasts for Fosters but from what Chris says it appears he still is. They would be mad to loose him as his reputation must be worth a lot to them. I was told by Emma that he made mine and Micky made my wife's but that would have been more than a year ago as far as mine were concerned. As far as I am aware Emiko and Emma are still there.


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## misterdonuts

Unfortunate development. It would be interesting to learn the remaining staff's view on the news. I think it would be useful to get as close to a 360° view on situations like this.


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## chrstc

*Official response from Fosters*



misterdonuts said:


> Unfortunate development. It would be interesting to learn the remaining staff's view on the news. I think it would be useful to get as close to a 360° view on situations like this.


Hello,
I have just received this email from Fosters and have been given permission to post the relevant parts here.

*"Many thanks for bringing this to our attention. The situtation here is that Terry Moore has been our senior last maker since 1965 and still is. He loves the work, is loyal to Fosters and we hope that he will continue for years to come.

Terry "retired" a few years ago but still works a pretty full week and is self-employed. Importantly he works exclusively for us! Terry is generally reckoned to be the best last maker in the World and we have taken a generous approach to making his teaching skills available to promising youngsters. Obviously you don't expect to retain all the people you train, and Fosters alumni are with several competitors today. Terry's pupils Emiko Matsuda and Emma Lakin have become key membrs of our team. Unfortunately we were not able to justify keeping Micky on as a full time in-house employee when Terry is able to handle all of our last making requirements either here or from his workshop at home.

As Micky mentions, we have a full order book and our business is growing quite strongly.

I can confirm that Terry certainly made your last and will be making all of our lasts from now on. I do hope that the above reassures you! We have a wonderful bespoke heritage in our company and a strong commitment to continuing to produce the highest quality in our bespoke work . We would not dream of compromising this in any way".*

Therefore as you can see there has not been nor will be any outsourcing of the lastmaking work. More people will get to experience lasts made by Mr. Moore than before which is very good news.

Glad that this has all been cleared up and best of luck to Micky and Simon in the future.

Hope this helps,

Chris.


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## shoefan

My understanding is that Simon has left to work on renovating a house that he and his wife (fiancee?) have purchased. I believe his departure was entirely his own decision, rather than any desire by Fosters to have him leave.


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## Concordia

Ah, so Foster's is outsourcing-- to Terry Moore, freelancer.


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## bengal-stripe

Concordia said:


> Ah, so Foster's is outsourcing-- to Terry Moore, freelancer.


I believe Terry Moore is in his mid-seventies. As much as I wish him a long and busy working life (if that is what he wants), there will come a point where he is no longer able or willing to use his tools. In a man of his ago, that point could come sooner than anyone would wish for.

Seem to me rather short-sighted from Foster's management to increase his workload, even if that is what Terry Moore wants and not have any fallback continuity in place.

I believe the situation at New & Lingwood in the late 80s was just the opposite. John Canera was the last maker, George Glasgow was the front-of-house man and George Cleverley was the consultant. So when Cleverley would be no longer capable to fulfil his consultancy role, Carnera and Glasgow would have provided continuity (that they decided a short while later to go it on their own, is another matter).

I suppose, New & Lingwood, as a bespoke shoemaker has never recovered from the departure of Carnera and Glasgow. That should be a warning to Foster & Son.


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## Concordia

Or a warning for anyone interested in a good Fosters-style shoe to get measured soon.


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## chrstc

bengal-stripe said:


> Seem to me rather short-sighted from Foster's management to increase his workload, even if that is what Terry Moore wants and not have any fallback continuity in place.


Hello,
Both Emma Lakin and Emiko Matsuda are lastmakers in their own right, having been trained by Mr. Moore, so I suppose that they will begin to take over as he moves towards his second retirement! I know that Ms. Matsuda in particular has made lasts for hundreds of Fosters customers already.

Thanks,
Chris.


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## nelewi

*bespoke english coniston-style boots avlble in laurel, md*

attn dc-area members:
i wanted to acquire a pair of english country boots and spent some time looking at plal and others in the uk for boots like the coniston or the peal equivalent at brooks. i discovered a bespoke bootmaker in laurel, md. that i recommend heartily who made me a lovely pair of brown, pebble-grain boots in that style (four eyelets, four hooks, captoe), well priced and bespoke to boot. the place is A.M. Kroop & Sons at 26 C St., Laurel, Md and they have a website. the wonderfully old-fashioned shop is run by Randy Kroop, the grand-daughter of A.M. who was an immigrant shoemaker who settled in Baltimore and opened the Laurel shop where he made (and she still makes) mostly equestrian boots; she makes boots for most of the jockeys at the nearby laurel racecourse. her website is: 
www.kroopboots.com
- neil lewis


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## speedster

*Added a lott of Italian makers to a Google map*

Hope for some participation & comments. Additional brands, experiences etc.
https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=...=45.45905,9.181768&spn=0.049788,0.115528&z=14

Thanks
Speed


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## jcusey

Added Koronya, another Budapest firm owned and operated by forum member Marcell.


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## Ron Enros

*Who Made These Vintage Bespoke Shoes?*

Hi Everyone,

I'm new to the forum and am looking forward to meeting and discussing men's fashion with the members. I recently acquired these vintage bespoke shoes (unfortunately, they don't fit). I am, however, very curious about the maker. The insoles are stamped, but half of the stamping is illegible. All that I can read is "Ainsley Bespoke Est 1864" - the clue to the maker is in the part that is illegible. I'm thinking that they might be by New & Lingwood as the gentleman was a customer - there were older New & Lingwood silk dress shirts at the estate. Did New & Lingwood make their own shoes, or act as an agent for one of the London shoemakers? If anyone has a clue, please respond. Here are the photos of the shoes:


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## fritzl

can't help you with your question, but i really like them.

what size?


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## Ron Enros

I finally figured out the maker - Ainsley Blake. I've never heard of this maker, however. Does anyone know anything about Ainsley Blake?


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## culverwood

At last Fosters have a gallery of photos.
https://www.wsfoster.com/shop/Bespoke+Gallery.htm


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## Cary Grant

IIRC, Foster's on Jermyn is the shop with the Fred Aistaire last on display... now THOSE were tiny feet!


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## comrade

Nobody ever seems to mention G. Marini in Rome. I only know their
shoes from the Web, but when I get back to Rome, I'll definitely check
on them. I love their shoes. I doubt that I can afford them.


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## JoeCool

For some who wants to know. I own a pair of Heinrich dinkelacker shoes. A cap toe model called London. Those shoes, and most of dinkelacker shoes, are heavier in wearing, means the weight is higher as all shoes I know. But when you wear them you don't feel it. The pair I own is not really for summer or light dressing. More for autum and dark time of the year, because they look very "bombastic". Don't know other word to explain, but walking is like on clouds


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