# Bean boots owners



## ackack (Jun 27, 2009)

Happy holidays to all. I've been on the hunt for a new pair of winter boots to battle a new England winter. For whatever reason my feet are always cold, even with thick socks. I'm looking for a boot that serves multiple purposes-snow shoveling, walking in the rain, outdoor football games etc. It would be great if bean offered a full waterproof shearling lined boot since these seem to be the warmest. However, is it necessary to buy a complete waterproof boot or can i get by with water resistant?

Also, can anyone comment on the pros of a 10" vs 8" boot?

Thanks in advance for any feedback!

Does anyone have opinions on the following three boots?

8" thinsulate/goretex
https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/35487?feat=506698-GN3

10" shearling lined
https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/43351?feat=506698-GN3

10" thinsulate


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## Dragoon (Apr 1, 2010)

Consider a pair of boots with a felt liner.
https://www.zappos.com/sorel-1964-premium-t-2010-buff


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## Epaminondas (Oct 19, 2009)

I've never owned them, but aesthetically, I'm not a fan of shearling lined footwear for men (maybe it's becasue I bought a pair of fleece lined slippers for my mother for Christmas). Also, I suspect the fleece lining will get matted down rather quickly and the thinsulate is probably your best long-term bet for durable, warm, foul weather wear. If you're interested in warm feet and water/snow isn't an issue, I'd just get a solid pair of insulated leather work boots (e.g., Timberland, etc.), which will breathe unlike the Bean boots which, in my experience (again never own an insulated pair so they may be different) can get damp/clammy when wearing for a prolonged period of time - especially while resting after exertion.

I really dislike the look of those Sorels or any other really heavy duty make - I'm sure they are practical, but they look like overkill unless you're working outside in Canada somewhere.


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## Patrick06790 (Apr 10, 2005)

I'm okay with Bean boots but I would recommend sock liners for whatever boot situation you wind up with. They are cheap; I go through 10 pairs per winter, then discard as they get pretty grotty.


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

I would recommend against the shearling lined version. It's more of a fashion boot and lacks a gusseted tongue so that it can be rolled down to expose the shearling. While that's great for showing off the shearling, it nullifies any waterproofing you might be able to get above the rubber bottom. If you want an all-around boot for cold weather wear, I would suggest the 10" thinsulate boots and then take the time to wax the leather uppers and seams with sno-seal. The non-thinsulates will require thick or multiple pairs of socks. 

If you require some serious cold weather protection, I would suggest a true pac-boot from Schnee's, Hoffman, Kennetrek, White's etc. These have a separate wool or Thinsulate liner and are good to very low temps.


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## 32rollandrock (May 1, 2008)

These:

https://www.sorel.com/CARIBOU™-(Mens)-|-281-|-7/803298141482,default,pd.html#


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## a pine tree (Jun 20, 2010)

Why not go for the maine hunting shoe? When dealing with snow, 10" is more practical than 8". If you think you will need it, go for the thinsulate lining. Definitely use snoseal and take proper care of them.


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## Danny (Mar 24, 2005)

I believe that the 8" is probably tall enough....the taller the boot the harder and more annoying it is to put on and the less likely you will be to want to put it on at all. I have a pair of 8" bean boots and a pair of the slip on mocs which are basically just the bottom of the bean boot...and I wear the mocs more because I can just slip them on. If it's really bad outside I can put on gaiters. I don't have the same issue with my feet getting cold though so...definitely consider a goretex or thinsulate insulation. The first one you list, with both goretex and thinsulate seems good.


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## fiddler (Apr 19, 2010)

When trekking I've always found the most sensible option for keeping warm is a regular thick felted removable wool boot liner. I also reckon this is much better for the leather as you can remove the liner and let the leather dry on it's own. Usually regular sewn in liners dry very slowly, which not only gives one cold feet, but could also lead to an increased risk of premature leather rotting. 
I've never tried the bean boots, but you might want to try sizing up one of their uninsulated models and get a wool boot liner.


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## godan (Feb 10, 2010)

GoreTex and Thinsulate. Buy boots and socks in combination, preferably in person, from a store with skilled sales associates.


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## ackack (Jun 27, 2009)

thank you all for the responses....can anyone comment on using the 10" Maine Hunting Shoe with gore-tex and thinsulate liners as a winter boot? Or am I better off using the 8" Bean Boot gore-tex and thinsulate model for the new england winter months?


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## bjorn240 (Jan 8, 2008)

I recommend separating the insulation from the boot. I hate thinsulate lined boots - should they get wet, they stay wet for a long time.

Best is to get the unlined Maine Hunting Shoe and a pair of ragg wool socks. If it's bitterly cold, a felt insole can be used additionally. Both insole and socks can be pulled out and dried separately.

I use the 10" boots, but dont think they're really necessary. But that's what the MHS comes in, so.... If the snow is deep, you'll require a gaiter regardless.

I just used a ragg/MHS combo to clear my driveway and walkways here in Chappaqua. Can't be improved upon.


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## godan (Feb 10, 2010)

bjorn240 said:


> I recommend separating the insulation from the boot. I hate thinsulate lined boots - should they get wet, they stay wet for a long time.
> 
> Best is to get the unlined Maine Hunting Shoe and a pair of ragg wool socks. If it's bitterly cold, a felt insole can be used additionally. Both insole and socks can be pulled out and dried separately.
> 
> ...


My completely different opinion may derive from hiking and climbing in another environment. In the Rocky Mountains, especially above timberline on summit climbs, marshy, wet ground is often encountered, and the "trail" is sometimes the stream. Most high-altitude mountaineers here have learned to trust GoreTex, especially in any Danner product, in combination with Thinsulate. Socks are definitely an alternative for warmth, but you will have to learn what material works best for you. It may or may not be wool. Keeping the water out of your boots is vastly superior to managing it once it is in.


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## fiddler (Apr 19, 2010)

godan said:


> My completely different opinion may derive from hiking and climbing in another environment. In the Rocky Mountains, especially above timberline on summit climbs, marshy, wet ground is often encountered, and the "trail" is sometimes the stream. Most high-altitude mountaineers here have learned to trust GoreTex, especially in any Danner product, in combination with Thinsulate. Socks are definitely an alternative for warmth, but you will have to learn what material works best for you. It may or may not be wool. Keeping the water out of your boots is vastly superior to managing it once it is in.


Well, the Gore-tex might keep the water out, but it also keeps the moisture trapped inside (for a long time). Of course this will always be an issue with rubber bottoms, however with a removabe felt liner/wool sock, you can just insert another liner, and your feet are dry as ever. Well proofed leather is as waterproof as any tech-material I've ever tried, so I don't really see the point of the additional membrane.


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## snakeroot (Aug 30, 2008)

He's poddling around suburban Hartford with his golden lab, not climbing Pike's Peak or Mt. Katahdin. 10" Maine Hunting Shoes and a carefully calibrated collection of woolly socks is more than enough.

Regards,


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## Epaminondas (Oct 19, 2009)

ackack said:


> thank you all for the responses....can anyone comment on using the 10" Maine Hunting Shoe with gore-tex and thinsulate liners as a winter boot? Or am I better off using the 8" Bean Boot gore-tex and thinsulate model for the new england winter months?


Really? You can't figure that one out for yourself?

At the risk of prompting sophmoric chortling, I doubt 2 inches is gonna' mak a big difference - they'll both suck in a 14 inch snowstorm. Just order what you like.


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## Epaminondas (Oct 19, 2009)

snakeroot said:


> He's poddling around suburban Hartford with his golden lab . . .


There is no such thing as a golden lab...

There are:
1) Golden Retrievers;and
2) Yellow Labradors.

They are two distinct breeds and any combination of the two would be a mutt.


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## Dr. D (Nov 19, 2010)

Everything you list will be adequate for CT snow. If you want to wear them around town get a 8" or smaller boot.

Just make sure you get a good boot dryer:
https://www.amazon.com/PEET-Dryer-M97-FSB-Original-Electric/dp/B001J4HQ76

and if you are walking the dog out on icy trails or driveways you'll want these as well:
https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/43355?feat=506753-GN2


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## Cajunking (Apr 30, 2010)

I would spring for the Maine Hunting Shoe, as someone else suggested.

I have the 8 inch thinsulate, and though they are pretty warm I still find my feet getting pretty darn cold when stomping through the snow. Perhaps a couple extra pairs of socks could remedy this.. I haven't tried.


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## enginerd917 (Dec 26, 2009)

I went with the 8" unlined, more than enough for most of New England. Spent all day shoveling, darn wind, in the boots and a pair of wool socks.


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## Mazama (May 21, 2009)

OP said: "For whatever reason my feet are always cold, even with thick socks. I'm looking for a boot that serves multiple purposes-snow shoveling, walking in the rain, outdoor football games etc."

Whether you're in a CT suburb or on a CO fourteener, the only (relatively) economical boots that will keep your feet warm - comfortably warm, not just ward off frostbite - are 1) the Sorel Caribous (ideally NOS pre-Chicom Canadian-made models for the far superior leather uppers) or 2) as stated above from hardline 42 (in the wilds of Neptune, NJ!) "If you require some serious cold weather protection, I would suggest a true pac-boot from Schnee's, Hoffman, Kennetrek, White's etc. These have a separate wool or Thinsulate liner and are good to very low temps."

Don't dick around with anything else. They're all overkill most of the time but when you need them you need them. Never compromise with boots, rain gear or sleeping bags.

Get the Caribou for around town, sporting events and in the car for emergency use.

Get something from Hoffman, Kenetrek, Schnee or Whites if you'll be in rougher terrain and need a stronger, more rugged and supportive boot. Yeh, they're a little heavy, just man up and deal with it. LL Bean boots are like Keds in comparison.

I wear Caribous around town and keep in the car (realitively easy on-ff), use Hoffman Guides for temps down to 15-degrees and Kenetrek Northerns for standing in temps down to minus-20. Get 12-14" height in pacs. Always add an extra insole. Put on Peets dryer both before and after use. Make sure your hands and head are well protected as well and you'll have warm feet even standing still or sitting. Let the city boys laugh at your Elmer Fudd look 'cause you're the one who'll be toasty warm.


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## fiddler (Apr 19, 2010)

I must agree with snakeroot, that this thread is going overboard. 
I can understand the need for a heavier pac-boot for outdoor activities when you are standing still for longer periods, but as long as you are walking and keeping a good blood flow going, you don't really need anything that heavy. Remember to go for the largest size you feel comfortable with to give your toes some wiggle room. The extra air also works as insulation. Good insoles and liners also go a long way. I have filled my Norwegian army-issued boots (unlined thick grained leather) with double wool insoles, and I have never felt the need for anything warmer.


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## Epaminondas (Oct 19, 2009)

fiddler said:


> I must agree with snakeroot, that this thread is going overboard.
> I can understand the need for a heavier pac-boot for outdoor activities when you are standing still for longer periods, but as long as you are walking and keeping a good blood flow going, you don't really need anything that heavy......


I agree as well, I wore my unlined Bean boots for multiple winters in relatively mild NJ and PA and much harsher IA, SD, and NE and was fine with just heavy wool boot socks - I don't think I was ever uncomfortable in them as I was walking even in below zero temps.


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

Mazama said:


> ... as stated above from hardline 42 (*in the wilds of Neptune, NJ!*) "If you require some serious cold weather protection, I would suggest a true pac-boot from Schnee's, Hoffman, Kennetrek, White's etc. These have a separate wool or Thinsulate liner and are good to very low temps."...


LOL! Hey, Neptune is a very cold planet! But seriously, we're under 2 feet of snow at the moment and I'm glad I have my Hoffmans. Also, sitting in subzero weather in a tree stand in the wee hours of the morning without moving will really test your gear.

For just general dog walking or walking around in 2 inches of snow, the Sorels are a good alternative to the Bean Boots. If cold feet is a serious problem, I would also suggest toe warmers when out in the cold. At about a dollar for two pairs, they're cheap, easy to use and apply heat to exactly where you need it regardless of your footwear choice.


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## utahbob (Jul 16, 2009)

*Bean boots are good for around town*

If you are going around town, hopping in and out of the car and stores, and shoveling snow off the driveway then, bean boots will do the job. I spent a year in Afghanistan and swear by these: 
https://www.google.com/search?hl=en...ne+boots+tora+bora&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai= 

But don't look like a wantabee, look civilized; get a pair of Beans.


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## Dragoon (Apr 1, 2010)

hardline_42 said:


> Also, sitting in subzero weather in a tree stand in the wee hours of the morning without moving will really test your gear.


I used to wear Mickey Mouse boots for deer hunting when the temperatures were in the twenties or less. Looking like an idiot is not nearly as bad (to me) as having cold feet. These days, if it's that cold, I just stay home.


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

Dragoon said:


> I used to wear Mickey Mouse boots for deer hunting when the temperatures were in the twenties or less. Looking like an idiot is not nearly as bad (to me) as having cold feet. These days, if it's that cold, I just stay home.


 I've always wanted to try those but climbing up and down a climbing stick with beach balls strapped to my feet makes me a little nervous. Still, I bet they hide your scent pretty good!
+1 on form over fashion (ie. looking like an idiot). Mother nature doesn't care if you're on trend.


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## romo88 (Sep 12, 2010)

From personal experience, if your looking for something for New England winters, cleaning up the yard, rainy days in town - go with the 8 inch bean with thinsulate. If you are able to wear them out they are easily resoled by bean for a reasonable fee.


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## ASF (Mar 6, 2006)

I think the 8 inch boots will serve you well in most of the situations you referenced. However, your feet will probably get cold sitting at football games in all but the earliest part of the season.

I've been wearing bean's Maine Hunting boots and shoes for almost 35 years. They are great for slopping through the rain and slush, wearing to school, work or errands, but they do have there limitations. Bean boots lack the foot support and breathability that most need when wearing them for hours on end. I used to hunt partride in mine, they performed well in the swampy woodlands, but crossing wet/slippery rocks, ravine cut hills and slopes was always tricky. They have poor traction especially when the "rope" soles start to wear. The rubber bottoms hold moisure like a zip-lock bag and the addition of Gore-Tex is nothing more than a marketing tool. Gortex is a wonderful vaper barrier, but once put into a non-breathable product (rubber boots) or say hiking boots treated with Sno-Seal, Biwell or similar, the leather pores get clogged with waterproof wax which inhibits any moisture transfer. I now wear Red-Wing Irish Setters (purchased from Bean) for field hunting and pack boots when sitting in a freezing duck blind.

I hope I don't come across as an "anti" Bean booter, I really like mine, but they are not the one boot for every occasion.

Cheers-

asf


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## godan (Feb 10, 2010)

ASF said:


> Gortex is a wonderful vaper barrier, but once put into a non-breathable product (rubber boots) or say hiking boots treated with Sno-Seal, Biwell or similar, the leather pores get clogged with waterproof wax which inhibits any moisture transfer. asf


Tectron DWR works as advertised for treating the outside of GoreTex boots while maintaining breathability. There are probably other products, as well.


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## Mazama (May 21, 2009)

Sunny and cold - single digits at dawn and a high of 21 - today. Wearing the Sorel Caribous (circa 2000 Canadian made) around town and inside in total comfort and good grip on slippery sidewalks and parking lots. The legs of my khakis fit oven them easily and with the great patina of the old leather IMO they provide a smashing look for those in live in cold climes.

Expecting serious sub-zero for the weekend so to direct parking at New Year's ski races will don 13" Kenetrek Northerns with legs of black insulated wind pants tucked inside and bright red English Pennine (true) knee length gun stockings turned down over the boot tops.


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## ASF (Mar 6, 2006)

godan said:


> Tectron DWR works as advertised for treating the outside of GoreTex boots while maintaining breathability. There are probably other products, as well.


I don't believe Tectron can be used on smooth grain leather. I've used Techtron on rough out leather and it works well.


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## swb120 (Aug 9, 2005)

I have always found that my feet get colder in Maine Hunting Shoes/duck boots than in regular boots with good soles. I have these for general wear/snow shoveling in PA, and they work perfectly well with nice, warm wool socks. Very comfortable. 
https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/49464?from=SR&feat=sr

Bean also has a waterproof version, as well, with a more rugged sole:
https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/57044?feat=49464-ppxs&dds=y


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## godan (Feb 10, 2010)

ASF said:


> I don't believe Tectron can be used on smooth grain leather. I've used Techtron on rough out leather and it works well.


Interesting point. I have only used it on mountain boots. According to the can, it is suitable for "all natural and synthetic fibers" and "gloves...shoes, boots."

The breathability of GoreTex Danners is critical to my success in summit climbs, especially in the wet spring months, and I know for sure it works with them. I don't have any smooth-out GoreTex boots, but if someone does and knows about Tectron's suitability, I hope he posts.


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## ASF (Mar 6, 2006)

godan said:


> Interesting point. I have only used it on mountain boots. According to the can, it is suitable for "all natural and synthetic fibers" and "gloves...shoes, boots."
> 
> The breathability of GoreTex Danners is critical to my success in summit climbs, especially in the wet spring months, and I know for sure it works with them. I don't have any smooth-out GoreTex boots, but if someone does and knows about Tectron's suitability, I hope he posts.


I've used Nixwax products as well. It's watersoluable, but works very well. I've used it on my Vasque Sundowners and my LaSportiva Makulus. The Vasque are smooth grained and the La Sportivas are rough-ed out leather.


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## godan (Feb 10, 2010)

ASF said:


> I've used Nixwax products as well. It's watersoluable, but works very well. I've used it on my Vasque Sundowners and my LaSportiva Makulus. The Vasque are smooth grained and the La Sportivas are rough-ed out leather.


I have used Nixwax products on non-GoreTex boots and on a cherished Langlitz jacket with good results. At present, the only Nixwax in my leather care stash is a tube of "Waterproofing Wax for Leather" identified as a "high performance cream for smooth leather." I don't know offhand the Vasque or LaSportiva models you mention. If they are GoreTex and you have found a Nixwax product that maintains breathability, please post it. Thanks.


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## ASF (Mar 6, 2006)

godan said:


> I have used Nixwax products on non-GoreTex boots and on a cherished Langlitz jacket with good results. At present, the only Nixwax in my leather care stash is a tube of "Waterproofing Wax for Leather" identified as a "high performance cream for smooth leather." I don't know offhand the Vasque or LaSportiva models you mention. If they are GoreTex and you have found a Nixwax product that maintains breathability, please post it. Thanks.


I also have used Granger's on smooth leather boots and have been happy with it. The label says it mantains breathability. It's hard to know for sure. My feet and socks are a bit damp when I remove the boots treated with the Granger's, but who knows, they might have been more/less damp had a used another product.

Most don't know how Gore-Tex works, so getting a consensus answer on its breathability is difficult.


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## godan (Feb 10, 2010)

ASF said:


> I also have used Granger's on smooth leather boots and have been happy with it. The label says it mantains breathability. It's hard to know for sure. My feet and socks are a bit damp when I remove the boots treated with the Granger's, but who knows, they might have been more/less damp had a used another product.
> 
> Most don't know how Gore-Tex works, so getting a consensus answer on its breathability is difficult.


Thanks for the lead to Granger's, which is a new product to me. You're right about Gore-Tex. The story of Gore's employment history and corporate connections is fascinating reading and provides insight to the product that made him rich and many of us drier.


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## xcubbies (Jul 31, 2005)

I've been wearing the Bean hunting boots for nearly forty years now, and have concluded that they are not really a cold weather boot. If you decide to go that route I suggest that before ordering you clarify for yourself whether you are buying them mainly for wet winter use or more casual, around town. If the former, you need to buy them large enough so that you can wear two pair of wool sox, or silk and wool. Otherwise your feet will be cold if it gets below 25F.


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## Starch (Jun 28, 2010)

From personal observation, people who want a serious cold-weather boot most often wind up with Sorels.

Whether the OP wants a serious cold-weather boot isn't entirely clear to me, and presumably more clear to him.

Since I don't have Sorels and do have the LL Bean duckboot, I'm apparently not a serious cold-weather boot wanter myself. This is pretty much accurate, as I don't have a major problem with cold feet, and don't generally spend long periods walking around in extremely cold weather (during those periods when I get the closest to doing so, I'm generally wearing ski boots ... which are actually not all that warm).

I have the LL Bean Insulated Maine Hunting Shoe in the 10" height. Not sure if they still make exactly the same model (mine were purchased in 1977): the upper is plain leather like the standard duckboot, but the rubber part is slightly different, in that there's a sort of tape around the outside just above the sole-join. I believe the only difference is they have a layer of insulation in the insole.

I agree with others that the 10" height is overkill for ordinary use, and does increase the hassle factor. On the other hand, it enhances the effect of lacing them only part-way up and going for the rustic-sloppy-chic look.


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## ackack (Jun 27, 2009)

thank you all for the feedback. I ended up going with the 10" unlined Maine Hunting Shoe. When I first posted this topic, I was only interested in a pure winter boot. I honestly thought I would pick the shearling lined but decided against once I learned the tongue is not connected and would allow snow or water in the boot. I also opted out of the sewn in thinsulate as I would be unable to remove and dry the liners. Also, after learning I can use the MHS w/ proper felt liners for the winter months, I appreciate the fact that I can also use them w/out liners for the spring mud season. I like the idea of being able to use just 1 boot for the winter and spring months.

Initially, I was going to purchase Bean's thinsulated/gore tex liners for the MHS, but they only offer 200 thinsulate. Figure I can purchase liners greater than 200 thinsulate....any preferred vendors?

I followed bean's sizing and went with a size 11D (normally wear a 11.5 in the camp moc). I'll definitely treat them w/ sno seal and be sure to remove the liners when not in use.

Looking forward to trying them out and again thank you all for your feedback...hope everyone has a happy new year!


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

ackack said:


> ...Initially, I was going to purchase Bean's thinsulated/gore tex liners for the MHS, but they only offer 200 thinsulate. Figure I can purchase liners greater than 200 thinsulate....any preferred vendors?...


 makes a 400 gram Thinsulate liner in 10". So does . I wouldn't worry about gore-tex in the liners. Especially if you plan to sno-seal the uppers. Gore-tex simply doesn't last long enough to be worth the expense.


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## godan (Feb 10, 2010)

hardline_42 said:


> Gore-tex simply doesn't last long enough to be worth the expense.


My experience with mountain boots at high altitudes on long trips over many years is exactly different. The Gore-Tex in these circumstances has lasted as long as the rest of the boots.


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

godan said:


> My experience with mountain boots at high altitudes on long trips over many years is exactly different. The Gore-Tex in these circumstances has lasted as long as the rest of the boots.


 Different strokes for different folks, I guess. I've had plenty of Gore-tex clothing items used for all types of hunting and fishing, including breathable waders, which I consider the ultimate test for any material that claims to be waterproof. Not a single pair has lasted more than two seasons, some less than one. I've also had boots with Gore-tex liners that leaked from the very first day. I believe that fabrics like Gore-tex have their place, but I prefer natural materials for the sake of durability and dependability.


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## Thom Browne's Schooldays (Jul 29, 2007)

I have a tall Maine hunting shoe (unlined), and old pair of bean boots with a drop-in wool liner and a pair of bean mocs.

For me, the hunting shoes are worthless, they're far too cold, even with heavy wool socks, to wear past the early fall.

I was looking to upgrade to a pair of lined/insulated bean boots, but after reading this thread it sounds as if none of them are any good.


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## Mazama (May 21, 2009)

Spent four today hours standing/sitting on icy snow in temps that ranged from -11 F to +4 F. Feet toasty warm the entire time wearing Kenetrek Northerns without even bothering to put on thick socks.

If I'd worn my MHS with thick socks I'd have had cold feet after 15 minutes and probably frostbite after four hours. 

There's no good substitute for footwear overkill in very cold weather.


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## Reptilicus (Dec 14, 2004)

The Caribou is an outstanding boot for very cold weather. They are my preferred show blowing boots for winter in Minnesota. They are excellent for very cold temperatures. It is quite difficult to drive in them because there is a tendency to hit the gas and the break at the same time. If I'm not in the deepest and coldest of snow, I'll go to my bean 10" Hunting Boots with Goretex/Thinsulate booties. They work great in the truck and are quite warm. Also, the are quite handy for walking the dogs in the muck we encounter in late fall and in early spring particularly. It's not unusual to encounter muck 6" to 8" in this part of the year, very cold with high water content.


32rollandrock said:


> These:
> 
> https://www.sorel.com/CARIBOU™-(Mens)-|-281-|-7/803298141482,default,pd.html#


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

I think it was decided pretty early on in this thread that the MHS and Bean Boot are not true "cold weather" footwear. They are mostly for walking through wet/slushy ground and provide the waterproof qualities of an all-rubber bottom with the form fitting adjustable quality of a leather upper. There are better options for standing around in sub-zero weather (pac-boots) but Bean Boots definitely have their place in my footwear arsenal.


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