# Sharp non-tweed jacket thread



## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

^

Yeah, sorta. So many pics are being shot, or cropped, from this angle, tuff to tell. And you get zero idea of silhouette. Of course the pocket square is bad news, but points for no tie. Less a point for crazy lapel. And, it looks kinda tweedy. Better jackets are currently being posted by a tiny person in the Isaia fit thread, adjacent to this one.

Whoops. Guess guy is wearing a tie. No reflection on you Sarge, but I don't think I like this fit at all. Been a while since I've seen bile, but I think the color can be found somewhere on that jacket. Good idea for a thread though. Lay some more on us.


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## Vecchio Vespa (Dec 3, 2011)

Even though it breaks my rule against mixing stripes and plaids I rather like it. I agree it’s a good concept for a thread. Maybe some day when I’m wearing my vintage sack red/blue Madras I’ll subject an unsuspecting world to a photo!


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## mreams99 (Jan 7, 2015)

I like this too — just not that pocket square.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^
I like the jacket design and can easily visualize such a garment as being a treasured part of my wardrobe, but alas, I fear it would see but limited wear during the winter months, in my closet!


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

Nice.

That sort of garment often has useless epaulets to give it that Daktari look. That one doesn't. Good for that one. Outstanding collar, and the way It's maintained.


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## mlenecare (Jan 30, 2019)

I could definitely find a place for that in my closet


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## challer (Sep 4, 2008)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 32939


Now where did this come from? I've got the blue linen from Ascot Chang but haven't seen this.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

challer said:


> Now where did this come from? I've got the blue linen from Ascot Chang but haven't seen this.


I just saw it on Tumblr. I have no idea. Perhaps a Google image search?

Ed. to add: The only reference I can find is to something called Gentleman Farmer x Americana but it's in French and I can't figure out what it's saying. Sure is a good looking safariana, though, isn't it?


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^
The final three jackets pictured are very workable in terms of fitting into many of our wardrobes, but that white number in the first photo...Oh hell no! 

PS: I wouldn't want to get caught out in a high wind with the lapels on that DB number. LOL.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> The final three jackets pictured are very workable in terms of fitting into many of our wardrobes, but that white number in the first photo...Oh hell no!
> 
> PS: I wouldn't want to get caught out in a high wind with the lapels on that DB number. LOL.


I favor the check, myself.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^
If I had to pick just one out of that group of jackets, the blue check jacket would be my choice as well! :amazing:


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

Oldsarge said:


> I favor the check, myself.





eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> ... the blue check jacket would be my choice as well! :amazing:


O for ch***t's sake you two, go big or go home. It's the last one you want, the one with the bat wings. She be super superb. I'd crawl into that in a New York minute. And there is no blue check jacket. You mean the light blue glen plaid?


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^
I have a BB Jacket that looks very much like that...SWMBO calls it my "used car salesman's jacket!" I'll have to take a picture of it and try to get it to post under this new format.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^
Very nice...looking fine! It's interesting to note that the popularity of navy and white university striped shirts seems to be in a period of resurgence....I've seen such shirts paired with several other jackets in recent postings.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Admittedly, the pocket square is absurd! And I'm not sure the shirt and tie go under the bush jacket, but it is a fine jacket.


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## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

⇧ Like the top sport coat (not it's outfit) as a wonderful summer one.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

^

Sure. Why not. Good to see hi-rise without ball-yank. 

If a pant has no loops it's because it has side adjusters, brace buttons or so well-tailored it needs neither...so what's with the clip-ons?


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^
The coat appears quite handsome, but I would not presume to wear that fabric pattern with a blue/white gingham checked shirt. :icon_scratch: A solid pale blue would be a better option.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

This is better?


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

^^^

Of Sarge's last four pics, all in the post just above (and thanks for keeping the thread going):

#1 Gawd no.
#2 Yes, yes, yes.
#3 Milque toast.
#4 Interesting. The chain from the front belt loop curling down around the thigh is not what it may seem. We do that in Maine. It's called a Fart Chain, you pull it and you, you know. The ladies up here, they love it.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Having given myself sciatica from wearing too fat a wallet in my back pocket and having lost small front pocket wallets four times, I wear one now except when I'm in a jacket where I can put the wallet in a breast pocket. Ladies in Maine are . . . different, I guess.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## poppies (May 11, 2017)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 34666


Interesting to see the bracelets, not something I would expect in the context of the rest of the rig.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

poppies said:


> Interesting to see the bracelets, not something I would expect in the context of the rest of the rig.


It's probably a photo from Piti Uomo. They'll wear almost anything in almost any combination.


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## mlenecare (Jan 30, 2019)

That looks like Brian Sacawa, probably not at Piti.
Also not a fan of those bracelets, they add nothing to the outfit. Maybe I'm biased but I've always thought they were silly.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Yeah, I know. More bracelets. But I was especially taken with the material in the jacket--and the tie is nice, too.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

And a rather decent suit, as well.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

How about some flannel?


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 34737
> 
> 
> ...I was especially taken with the material in the jacket--and the tie is nice, too.


...enough to overlook the extraordinarily poor fit?


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Peak and Pine said:


> ...enough to overlook the extraordinarily poor fit?


As I said, I liked the material.


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## poppies (May 11, 2017)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 34737
> 
> 
> Yeah, I know. More bracelets. But I was especially taken with the material in the jacket--and the tie is nice, too.


I only like the material, but I very, very much like the material!


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^
Now that is a brown/rust hued fabric pattern that I could wrap my arms around and enjoy wearing, even in these parts!


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## Tom3 (Jan 8, 2017)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 34962


I love this fabric - the color and the window-pane, but the peak lapels seem out of place here. Am I being too narrow in my expectation of the formality of these lapels? Or maybe I'm just not confident enough to pull it off, myself.

Tom


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## cmoore (Sep 10, 2019)

Tom3 said:


> I love this fabric - the color and the window-pane, but the peak lapels seem out of place here. Am I being too narrow in my expectation of the formality of these lapels? Or maybe I'm just not confident enough to pull it off, myself.


I kind of understand. I was thinking the same thing. I wouldn't order peaks, but I don't think they're a deal killer.

I have this coat's evil twin, fabricwise. It's blue with the brown windowpanes. Normal notched lapels, not peak. It has these curved, piped pockets that are a magnificent work of tailoring and every once in a while I wonder if I should have had the guy just do patch pockets instead. The formal element is so.... formal for a summer weight, slubby fabric sport coat.

But, then, nobody knows the old rules except for the few that do. Meaning, people who read here might really know things like peaks are more formal but that's not true not in the broader world. Especially where I live. Where I socialize and the offices I visit where I would wear my coat almost nobody will know that pipes are more formal than flaps. That realization means I forget about the pockets when I wear my coat now. You'd just have to do the same with peaks on a more casual coat.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Well, the 'rules' are a bit funny. Peak lapels may seem formal on a single breasted coat but they're the norm on a double breasted one. I kind of think that 'formal' and 'sports jacket' don't fit together when a double breasted blazer seems less formal than a single breasted. So just get the coat you want and wear it and assume that anyone who critiques it harshly is a hidebound fuddy-duddy. irate:


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

At least, I don't THINK this is tweed.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Oldsarge said:


> At least, I don't THINK this is tweed.
> 
> View attachment 35510


Here is a worsted check jacket, I like it.










I think I'd rather wear that than a real tweed. I run very hot in general.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 36379


The Tweed jacket is very nice, but that magnificent cardigan captures one's soul! If a very similar cardigan did not presently lay folded in my closet, I fear I might be saddling up and going shopping!


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

glen checks are just so wonderful.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

A double breasted glen check. Different!


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Troones (Mar 7, 2018)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 38516
> 
> 
> A double breasted glen check. Different!


Different indeed. I actually owned one! Waaaay back in the late 80s on a trip to the UK visiting family, I purchased one. It was actually a suit seperate (I just bought the jacket) and wore it with black trousers. I wish:
1. I still owned it just so I could post a photo here, and
2. The size I bought still fit me.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## EclecticSr. (Sep 21, 2014)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 38516
> 
> 
> A double breasted glen check. Different!


Have a suit like that purchased at least 15 years ago from Ede and Ravenscroft.


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## EclecticSr. (Sep 21, 2014)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 38709


Have one of those from Brooks.


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## EclecticSr. (Sep 21, 2014)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 39053


The ubiquitous blue blazer, I have at least 6, both SB and DB of various make. Not all patch pocket though. Somehow never out of style.


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## Winhes2 (Jun 29, 2011)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 38709


Love this until the pants.


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## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Dynamite!


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## StephenRG (Apr 7, 2005)

Oldsarge said:


> Dynamite!


Where is that from? Tineye didn't have it.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

StephenRG said:


> Where is that from? Tineye didn't have it.


Sorry, just a picture off the 'Net.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

I love flannel!


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## EclecticSr. (Sep 21, 2014)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 40425
> 
> 
> I love flannel!


Who doesn't.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

StephenRG said:


> Where is that from? Tineye didn't have it.


Google Chrome is great for this.

I clicked on the image, then "Search Google for image".

Seems like W.W. Chan


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## lightbeard (Mar 23, 2019)

Alpaca


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Got this jacket last week, pretended it was my birthday.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Color 8 (Sep 18, 2015)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 42210


Interesting cuffs . . .


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## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

Color 8 said:


> Interesting cuffs . . .


I believe I've learned from @Matt S that, on shirts, those are called cocktail cuffs (Sean Connery wore them sometimes when playing Bond), but I don't know if the same name is used when those cuffs are on suit-jacket or sport-coat sleeves.

It's time to bring out the @Matt S Bat Signal:


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## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

Peak and Pine said:


> Matt refers to that form of cuff (on his blog) as a _gauntlet cuff_. A wee redundant since a gauntlet can only occur at the cuff. So they're called *gauntlets*. Three different types were posted in the Tweed Thread last week.


Thank you, but I must have missed it. It's been a hectic week here in NYC (and with three elderly parents between my girlfriend and me) so, sometimes I'm just skimming AAAC.


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

^
Took down my post because I thought it read condescending (to you _and_ Matt), hey you know me, but since you quoted it, there she'll stay.


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

Fading Fast said:


> Thank you, but I must have missed it. It's been a hectic week here in NYC (and with three elderly parents between my girlfriend and me) so, sometimes I'm just skimming AAAC.


@Peak and Pine , tailors call them "gauntlet cuffs". A gauntlet is something different, and here it is used as an adjective to describe the cuff. So calling it just a "gauntlet" would be incorrect.


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

delicious_scent said:


> Got this jacket last week, pretended it was my birthday.


I love the shirt! The combination of button-down collar and cocktail cuffs reminds me of Dick Van ****.


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

Matt S said:


> @Peak and Pine , tailors call them "gauntlet cuffs". A gauntlet is something different, and here it is used as an adjective to describe the cuff. So calling it just a "gauntlet" would be incorrect.


The term _gauntlet cuff_ is superfluous since the only place a gauntlet can occur is at the cuff. Ditto with_ neck tie, shoe lace _and _tuna fish._


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Or String Orchestra.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Matt S said:


> I love the shirt! The combination of button-down collar and cocktail cuffs reminds me of Dick Van ****.


Thanks man.

I had to google that guy, have any pics where he sports that combination?


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

^

You actually had to Google Dick Van ****? Admittedly his heyday was before your time, but so was Winston Churchill's. Have you Googled him? (Van **** is alive and currently gargling soup.)


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

Peak and Pine said:


> The term _gauntlet cuff_ is superfluous since the only place a gauntlet can occur is at the cuff. Ditto with_ neck tie, shoe lace _and _tuna fish._


In what world do _neck _and _shoe_ stand in for the words _necktie _and _shoelace_?


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

_The term gauntlet cuff is superfluous since the only place a gauntlet can occur is at the cuff. Ditto with neck tie, shoe lace and tuna fish_


Matt S said:


> In what world do _neck _and _shoe_ stand in for the words _necktie _and _shoelace_?


My world, so don't upend it. It's _tie_ for _neck tie_ and _lace _for _shoe lace. _ You don't use those shortened phrases? (Of course he does and I'm being put on.)


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

delicious_scent said:


> Thanks man.
> 
> I had to google that guy, have any pics where he sports that combination?


I have to look for pictures. I had taken screenshots but can't find them. He wears shirts like this in the third season of The Dick Van **** Show.


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

Peak and Pine said:


> _The term gauntlet cuff is superfluous since the only place a gauntlet can occur is at the cuff. Ditto with neck tie, shoe lace and tuna fish_
> 
> My world, so don't upend it. It's _tie_ for _neck tie_ and _lace _for _shoe lace. _ You don't use those shortened phrases? (Of course he does and I'm being put on.)


But you're choosing the second word, not the first. You can just say _cuff_, but you can't just say _gauntlet_. It's like shortening _blue shirt_ to just _blue_.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> You actually had to Google Dick Van ****? Admittedly his heyday was before your time, but so was Winston Churchill's. Have you Googled him? (Van **** is alive and currently gargling soup.)


Yeah I did.

Familiar with him yes. Here is a colorized 1895 photo of him.











Matt S said:


> I have to look for pictures. I had taken screenshots but can't find them. He wears shirts like this in the third season of The Dick Van **** Show.


All good, no worries.


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

Matt S said:


> But you're choosing the second word, not the first. You can just say _cuff_, but you can't just say _gauntlet_.


Of course you can. Gauntlet was a noun before it was an adjective. Not a fan of jousting perhaps? You are caught up with the position of the words and whether they are actual or modify. Blagh. My interest is in redundancy.


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

Peak and Pine said:


> Of course you can. Gauntlet was a noun before it was an adjective. Not a fan of jousting perhaps? You are caught up with the position of the words and whether they are actual or modify. Blagh. My interest is in redundancy.


Is a gunatlet in jousting the same thing as this type of cuff? Here it serves as an adjective.


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

delicious_scent said:


> Familiar with him yes. Here is a colorized 1895 photo of him. [Churchill]


Nice. That pic is on the cover of a biography I have of him. It's pre fat ass.


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

Matt S said:


> Is a gunatlet in jousting the same thing as this type of cuff? Here it serves as an adjective.


You win. I'm out.


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

Wait a minute, maybe I'm not out. Bored tho. One more whack. Strictly speaking, gauntlet as a noun refers to the upper, non-fingered part of a glove. The gauntlet *cuff,* as you call it, refers to the gauntlet design of a glove transferred to cloth going up and over the end of a sleeve providing a decorative artifice which I happen to like (or did until all this) and as such it is entirely appropriate, not to mention succinct, which I know I just did, to refer to the thing as simply a gauntlet.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

But referring to the cuff as a gauntlet is incorrect unless you add the noun 'cuff' to it. If you simply say 'gauntlet' then you mean










Gloves suitable for working with roses, cacti, and the like. 'Throwing down the gauntlet' refers to an entire glove.


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

Oy. This ain't gonna die.
Which is more correct (if there is degree to correctness): I'm putting on my tweed jacket, or, I'm putting on my tweed? New England me chooses the latter, the jacket part being understood, besides it's less wordy. So, as pointed out thru numerous head banging posts here, a gauntlet cuff can be applied only at the cuff, so the cuff part is superfluous. Not to mention illiterate (like the Maine phrase _insane crazy._)


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

I ain't gonna continue the argument, but I think you're wrong.


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

Peak and Pine said:


> Oy. This ain't gonna die.
> Which is more correct (if there is degree to correctness): I'm putting on my tweed jacket, or, I'm putting on my tweed? New England me chooses the latter, the jacket part being understood, besides it's less wordy. So, as pointed out thru numerous head banging posts here, a gauntlet cuff can be applied only at the cuff, so the cuff part is superfluous. Not to mention illiterate (like the Maine phrase _insane crazy._)


Do you think you can change the language, Bill Shakespeare?


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

@Peak and Pine , I had forgotten to mention that _gauntlet _has another meaning besides being a type of cuff. A gauntlet on a shirt is the vent at the end of the sleeve. A shirt has a gauntlet and a cuff, hence the need to call the jacket's _gauntlet cuff_ something different.


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## Color 8 (Sep 18, 2015)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 42210


So these are "gauntlet cuffs," or what ?


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

Color 8 said:


> So these are "gauntlet cuffs," or what ?


Yes, those are gauntlet cuffs.


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

Matt S said:


> Yes, those are gauntlet cuffs.


...as opposed to a gauntlet collar.


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## Color 8 (Sep 18, 2015)

Peak and Pine said:


> ...as opposed to a gauntlet collar.


I'm glad I didn't ask about PIN numbers for ATM machines


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## StephenRG (Apr 7, 2005)

Color 8 said:


> I'm glad I didn't ask about PIN numbers for ATM machines


You can add "the _hoi polloi_", "county sheriff" and "NMB Bank" to your list.


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## lightbeard (Mar 23, 2019)




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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

Summer soon...


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Peak and Pine said:


> Summer soon...


The moment I focused my eyes on that image above, Thoreau's Walden's Pond took over my mind. Ya gotta wonder if that is what the gentleman is reading? :icon_scratch:


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

But, Peak, I thought you spat on those close-in pics and those that post them like you can't tell diddly about cut and fit not to mention possible zits on the modeler's puss.

Yes, but it's corduroy. Cord,cloth,u,of,roy,king. French which I speak Quebecidly. You need to see the close-in first. Relish it.

Now for the full shot (mannequin sheltering-in-place thus banshee pale and banshee no eyes). Thank me for all this cause I know you love the corduroy, love the double breast, love the olive, what's not to?










...rick-rack stitch on pockets only for transport (to my house, Peaky's Xmas wish)


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

eagle2250 said:


> The moment I focused my eyes on that image above, Thoreau's Walden's Pond took over my mind. Ya gotta wonder if that is what the gentleman is reading? :icon_scratch:


Yes.
Or _In the Maine Woods_, another Thoreau title, closer to home.


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

Rum and tapioca. Mmmmmm.


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

Lookin' good, Mr. G. (Personal fave guy.) Tattersall pants? Is that what _the Fly_ would wear?


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Goes just as well in the turtleneck and sports coat thread. Nice.


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

^

Some may object to the thin lapel though. Not me. And of course you always wanna match your glass frames to your t'neck, which he admirably does.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Peak and Pine said:


> ^
> 
> Some may object to the thin lapel though. Not me. And of course you always wanna match your glass frames to your t'neck, which he admirably does.


normally not a fan, but it gives a lot more patch pocket room here, which I approve of.


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

delicious_scent said:


> normally not a fan, but it gives a lot more patch pocket room here, *which I approve of.*


So then, you would be Delicious Scent and you approve this message.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)




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## Tom3 (Jan 8, 2017)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 42831


I WANT this coat. I also want to understand the architecture of the shirt neck. Perhaps I don't get out enough, but I don't think I've ever seen one like it.
Tom


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Tom3 said:


> I WANT this coat. I also want to understand the architecture of the shirt neck. Perhaps I don't get out enough, but I don't think I've ever seen one like it.
> Tom


Looks like it has a fairly high collar band, you can see it underneath the tie knot. The collar also looks to be unfused due to the casual rumples present, most spread collars are fused. I'm not sure about the lining.

@Flanderian may know more.


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## Tom3 (Jan 8, 2017)

delicious_scent said:


> Looks like it has a fairly high collar band, you can see it underneath the tie knot. The collar also looks to be unfused due to the casual rumples present, most spread collars are fused. I'm not sure about the lining.
> 
> @Flanderian may know more.


Thank you for the response. The collar band does look tall, doesn't it? I have seen some two-button collar bands that looked almost that tall (two inches, perhaps), but those had longer collar points. Not that I am haunting the men's stores, anymore, but it caught my attention as something with which I was not familiar.
Nor am I familiar with the presentation of the tie; it looks to me like a four-in-hand with both ends of the tie coming through the knot side by side, rather than one over the other. Do I need new glasses.
And, thank you, again.
Tom


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Tom3 said:


> Thank you for the response. The collar band does look tall, doesn't it? I have seen some two-button collar bands that looked almost that tall (two inches, perhaps), but those had longer collar points. Not that I am haunting the men's stores, anymore, but it caught my attention as something with which I was not familiar.
> Nor am I familiar with the presentation of the tie; it looks to me like a four-in-hand with both ends of the tie coming through the knot side by side, rather than one over the other. Do I need new glasses.
> And, thank you, again.
> Tom


I never knew much about knots, others may know more. No problem Tom.

@Matt S 
@Oldsarge 
@Peak and Pine


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

At last count there were about twenty-three knots used for neckties. I use two. AFAICT most of them are the result of a man having a tie, a mirror and 'way too much time on his hands.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Here's another


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## Tom3 (Jan 8, 2017)

Oldsarge said:


> Here's another
> 
> View attachment 42918


Well, you are finding all kinds of coats that escaped my notice; is that a 3/2 with patch pockets and pick stitching? Well played.

Tom


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Tom3 said:


> Well, you are finding all kinds of coats that escaped my notice; is that a 3/2 with patch pockets and pick stitching? Well played.
> 
> Tom


Tumblr is a wonderful thing.


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## Matt S (Jun 15, 2006)

delicious_scent said:


> I never knew much about knots, others may know more. No problem Tom.
> 
> @Matt S
> @Oldsarge
> @Peak and Pine


@Tom3 I think that's just the effect of the dimple. But I have seem some people arrange their ties so both blades show.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Matt S said:


> @Tom3 I think that's just the effect of the dimple. But I have seem some people arrange their ties so both blades show.


An odd affectation, IMO.


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## StephenRG (Apr 7, 2005)

Oldsarge said:


> An odd affectation, IMO.


A disproportionate number of them being wearers of Hermes ties.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 43943


One's got to love the seersucker, but perhaps not the double breasted design of the jacket. DB jackets have never really presented well on my frame!


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Just the jacket, the rest of it is not good.


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## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

⇧ as you noted, just the jacket. That shirt reminds me - in OCBD form - of what all the "factory outlet" bins where full of in the '90s. "Look, I can get a $90 Ralph shirt for $20 bucks - back up the truck." I have a relative who shops that way - all brand name stuff from the outlets. IMO, he always ends up with the odd color or cut or style or fit or something. And since he loads up on the really inexpensive stuff, you'll see five versions of the same "great value" thing in his wardrobe. He's all Polo, BB and designer names and it, again IMO, doesn't work.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Fading Fast said:


> ⇧ as you noted, just the jacket. That shirt reminds me - in OCBD form - of what all the "factory outlet" bins where full of in the '90s. "Look, I can get a $90 Ralph shirt for $20 bucks - back up the truck." I have a relative who shops that way - all brand name stuff from the outlets. IMO, he always ends up with the odd color or cut or style or fit or something. And since he loads up on the really inexpensive stuff, you'll see five versions of the same "great value" thing in his wardrobe. He's all Polo, BB and designer names and it, again IMO, doesn't work.


Not the unnamed relative to whom you refer, but somewhat guilty as charged, none the less! Uh0Oh.


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## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

eagle2250 said:


> Not the unnamed relative to whom you refer, but somewhat guilty as charged, none the less! Uh0Oh.


I doubt that's true as you've posted enough pics for us to know you don't dress at all like my unnamed relative.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Good ol' moleskin.


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

^

Thinking that might be velvet. A little shiny for moleskin. Whatever, great pick and why yes, red heads do go well with green, and a lotta books.


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## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

Might be Tweed, but don't think so. Really like the tie.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 47094


That is a great looking rig, The side adjusters on the trousers are a nice touch, but with all that blur playing into the frame, I think I would rather have a nice chestnut hued belt strap to break-up the playing field, just a bit. :icon_scratch:


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

^

The jacket looks kinda suit-y and the knot seems out of proportion with the collar size, but no objection to the dark'ish shirt with the swell grenadine. Paste this on a younger guy who hits the clubs early ditching the tie and opening the collar by nine. Yeah, that's the ticket. One liver-spotted thumbs up. Miss the days when I used to get up to get down,


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

Oldsarge said:


>


Been there many times - the bread is insanely good. Oh, this is not the food thread. Well, not my favorite jacket, but a nice outfit overall. Beautiful dog.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Not my picture, from styfo, but is the jacket I recently received. Possibly the nicest fabric I have.


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## StephenRG (Apr 7, 2005)

delicious_scent said:


> Not my picture, from styfo, but is the jacket I recently received. Possibly the nicest fabric I have.


What's the fabric?


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

StephenRG said:


> What's the fabric?


It's a blend of 3. 60% silk, 36% wool, 4% cashmere, by E. Thomas. Jacket is by Spier & Mackay.


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## Troones (Mar 7, 2018)

delicious_scent said:


> It's a blend of 3. 60% silk, 36% wool, 4% cashmere, by E. Thomas. Jacket is by Spier & Mackay.


Ahh, I knew it looked like a S&M! Great stuff. I have two of their sport coats and a grey shark skin suit.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Troones said:


> Ahh, I knew it looked like a S&M! Great stuff. I have two of their sport coats and a grey shark skin suit.


Thanks man.

I'm glad AAAC crew has caught on to S&M, their overall value is pretty bonkers.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 49993


That is a great looking jacket and I am generally a fan of high waisted trousers, but something about that picture (and I'm not sure what it is) gives me pause.


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## Guest (Oct 8, 2020)

I think it looks good. Perhaps it's the narrower portion of the tie hanging longer?


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

eagle2250 said:


> That is a great looking jacket and I am generally a fan of high waisted trousers, but something about that picture (and I'm not sure what it is) gives me pause.


Guest is right. It's the tie.


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## drpeter (Nov 21, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> That is a great looking jacket and I am generally a fan of high waisted trousers, but something about that picture (and I'm not sure what it is) gives me pause.


I agree. Could it be the colour and pattern of the tie? With two patterns in jacket and shirt, it is hard to have a large pattern in a different colour in the tie.

I would say, a russet grenadine tie would add just the right amount of interest in the outfit. It adds depth and a small pattern in keeping with the small houndstooth pattern in the jacket, and does not conflict with the university stripe on the shirt.


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## drpeter (Nov 21, 2008)

Here's a single-breasted POW glen check jacket with peaked lapels by Edward Sexton. I really love the way the red and grey colours in the panes combine to create the overall effect:


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

drpeter said:


> Here's a single-breasted POW glen check jacket with peaked lapels by Edward Sexton. I really love the way the red and grey colours in the panes combine to create the overall effect:
> 
> View attachment 50081


A suit in that material would be a bit too much, IMO, but as a jacket? Over grey trousers? Magnificent!


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## drpeter (Nov 21, 2008)

Agreed. This jacket would also look wonderful with cream-coloured trousers -- cricketing white flannel, worn on cold days for matches, is actually the colour of Devon cream, and it will go beautifully with the grey and red, and pick up the bit of cream in the jacket.


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## drpeter (Nov 21, 2008)

Another nifty-looking DB jacket on _The Rake_. They say it combines Italian, English and French techniques.

https://therake.com/the-rake-tailor...-pow-check-double-breasted-sports-jacket.html


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Cross posted to the jacket and turtleneck thread


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## Dhaller (Jan 20, 2008)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 49811


I used to wear outfits like this when I was in my early-mid 20s... and I probably looked fairly ridiculous at it (being in my early to mid 20s).

Now, this is my "dotage* attire" goal.

DH

* which is closer than I like to imagine!


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Troones (Mar 7, 2018)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 53183


Simple, straight forward and elegant. I think this combination is just about perfect.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 53423


Beautiful item of clothing, but to my eye, nice as it is, it looks like a suit separate.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Fading Fast said:


> Beautiful item of clothing, but to my eye, nice as it is, it looks like a suit separate.


....and the lapels are arguably overpowering! Tame those bad boys and we have one helluva sport coat.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

I like the jacket and socks. The rest, not so much.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Troones (Mar 7, 2018)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 53804
> 
> 
> I like the jacket and socks. The rest, not so much.


The jacket appears to have metal buttons. Would this be considered a blazer? Or does it walk the line somewhere between sport coat and blazer? Either way I like it too.


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## Tweedlover (Jan 30, 2021)

Troones said:


> The jacket appears to have metal buttons. Would this be considered a blazer? Or does it walk the line somewhere between sport coat and blazer? Either way I like it too.


I've never stopped to consider the question of what distinguishes a sport coat from a blazer. Is it metallic buttons? If so, then I guess my glen plain jacket with metallic buttons must be a blazer.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

That's always been how I discriminated. Blazers also can have MOP buttons and look quite smashing. As to the youngster in the plaid? Well, he's sitting next to a river so if it's the Thames, yeah, he's in a blazer. A punting enthusiast, I suspect.


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## Tweedlover (Jan 30, 2021)

Oldsarge said:


> That's always been how I discriminated. Blazers also can have MOP buttons and look quite smashing. As to the youngster in the plaid? Well, he's sitting next to a river so if it's the Thames, yeah, he's in a blazer. A punting enthusiast, I suspect.


Thanks for that. Guess I still own a blazer then. Of course, years back I also owned the proverbial navy blazer.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Tweedlover said:


> Thanks for that. Guess I still own a blazer then. Of course, years back I also owned the proverbial navy blazer.


Only one?


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## Tweedlover (Jan 30, 2021)

The glen plaid blazer I still have is gold with brown striping and was thrifted. The tag indicated it was made for the D Fine clothier in the Mirage casino in Las Vegas. Is and was in great shape. Too bad I've had no occasion to wear it since retiring.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Tweedlover (Jan 30, 2021)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 55214


Love the jacket, but not sure about that tie with it. The combo of checked jacket with all those polka dots on the tie are a smidge tough to look at.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

And the tie is way too long.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

Rumpled is in. She never left, here in the Great North East...


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Peak and Pine said:


> Rumpled is in. She never left, here in the Great North East...
> 
> View attachment 56731


Count me as a fan of corduroy jackets. I'm sure there are a couple to be found hidden away in this hoard, but I can't imagine wearing one quite that rumpled!


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## StephenRG (Apr 7, 2005)

Peak and Pine said:


> Rumpled is in. She never left, here in the Great North East...
> 
> View attachment 56731


The thread calls for sharp. This looks blunt


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

Plus an additional like for the fireplace surround, featuring the much discussed _bend_ on shield number two.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

Do want.


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## EclecticSr. (Sep 21, 2014)

delicious_scent said:


> Do want.


Then do get. Yesterday ordered a jacket on sale $100.00 of reg. price. Do I need it? No, but did want. Where are the smileys?


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

EclecticSr. said:


> Then do get. Yesterday ordered a jacket on sale $100.00 of reg. price. Do I need it? No, but did want. Where are the smileys?


I generally like smileys on the "like" function, but rarely add them in posts themselves.

This jacket is great, but definitely not in need of more SCs right now. I need more basic trousers and shirts if anything, but those are not as exciting to post about.

I ordered a pair of olive linen trousers to complete a full suit, and some light grey fresco trousers for summer, so that's going to be it in terms of purchases for the next little while.


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## EclecticSr. (Sep 21, 2014)

delicious_scent said:


> I generally like smileys on the "like" function, but rarely add them in posts themselves.
> 
> This jacket is great, but definitely not in need of more SCs right now. I need more basic trousers and shirts if anything, but those are not as exciting to post about.
> 
> I ordered a pair of olive linen trousers to complete a full suit, and some light grey fresco trousers for summer, so that's going to be it in terms of purchases for the next little while.


Delish, not a big fan of linen, with the exception of possibly a shirt or two. I don't like the wrinkled look, fine on some, just not me.

Fresco, yes. have several pair of trousers, don't underrate the excitation of same, especially the high rise side tab numbers. 
I do have to keep you on your game. Still no smiley available.

Are the forum mucky mucks aware of this. the option seems to have disappeared. 
The emojis in general, .........now I will have to look up def. of emoji(s) all this new fangled terminology.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

EclecticSr. said:


> Delish, not a big fan of linen, with the exception of possibly a shirt or two. I don't like the wrinkled look, fine on some, just not me.
> 
> Fresco, yes. have several pair of trousers, don't underrate the excitation of same, especially the high rise side tab numbers.
> I do have to keep you on your game. Still no smiley available.
> ...


Oh, I misunderstood, I thought you were asking why I didn't include smileys in my post. I didn't even notice the option was missing in posts.

I've a love/hate relationship with linen. I agree, it's really great on shirts. Nothing else works as great as linen in the dead of summer.

I'm not a fan of how the back of a linen jacket looks when it's wrinkled. I'm alright with the wrinkles on trousers.

I ordered a pair of medium rise, the high-rise were sold out for me, but fortunately I think both work very well on my body.

Ok, no smiley for you, but I leave this instead.

https://www.magnificentbastard.com/features/linen-it-sucks[HEADING=2]"Linen. It Sucks.[/HEADING]
Wanna go from looking like a million bucks to looking like you actually *owe* money? In just 45 seconds flat? Wear linen.

No matter how great the deal, or how great that model might look wearing it, be strong and resist the temptation of linen. As the time-lapse photography below shows, it sucks.

*:00* Looking magnificent. But are those storm clouds in the background?










*:15* Fifteen seconds later, simply by breathing, it begins.










*:30* Slight bending of knee causes catastrophic wrinkling.










*:45* What the fuck just happened?


















"

On the topic of fresco and olive though, I definitely would have grabbed this one in place of linen. It has about the same level of surface interest, and could easily be worn as part of a full suit, broken up, and the exact opposite of rumply.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

delicious_scent said:


> Oh, I misunderstood, I thought you were asking why I didn't include smileys in my post. I didn't even notice the option was missing in posts.
> 
> I've a love/hate relationship with linen. I agree, it's really great on shirts. Nothing else works as great as linen in the dead of summer.
> 
> ...


That is one very impressive demonstration of the point you are making! Well dons, Sir.


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## 215339 (Nov 20, 2012)

eagle2250 said:


> That is one very impressive demonstration of the point you are making! Well dons, Sir.


Thanks eagle! I try when I can


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

*Big boys don't cry!* (With apologies to the _Four Seasons_.) With the exception of the scraggly designer stubble that is as mistaken as it is fashionable for a gentleman of magnitude, well turned out in a flatteringly cut DB.


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## Peak and Pine (Sep 12, 2007)

^^

Moral: never put Miraclr-gro on your pocket square. Put it on those skinny lapels where it belongs.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## StephenRG (Apr 7, 2005)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 59541


Obviously envious of his little brother's jacket.


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## FiscalDean (Dec 10, 2011)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 59538


Just when I thought we'd seen the last of the overly long tie. Well the consensus around here is decidedly anti navy dress trouser, I think they look fine. Also, I do like the jacket.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Troones (Mar 7, 2018)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 61153


That looks to be flannel if I'm not mistaken. I have a single breasted chalk stripe flannel suit that is probably my favorite suit. It's a similar light navy.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 61215


It sports a but too much lapel for my taste, but I do like the look of that fabric.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## drpeter (Nov 21, 2008)

There's something really handsome about black and white -- crisp and elegant. Perhaps it has something to do with the fact that these are achromatic "colours" or shades. Black and White are the two poles between which there is a continuum of Greys, the greyscale. And in fact, most of the greys are great shades for suits, trousers and shirts. Dark and light greys can be combined from various points of the greyscale to create terrific ensembles in suits and shirts. And I think a mid-grey or Oxford grey suit in a medium weight flannel is the most versatile suit a man can have.


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## Fading Fast (Aug 22, 2012)

drpeter said:


> There's something really handsome about black and white -- crisp and elegant. Perhaps it has something to do with the fact that these are achromatic "colours" or shades. Black and White are the two poles between which there is a continuum of Greys, the greyscale. And in fact, most of the greys are great shades for suits, trousers and shirts. Dark and light greys can be combined from various points of the greyscale to create terrific ensembles in suits and shirts. And I think a mid-grey or Oxford grey suit in a medium weight flannel is the most versatile suit a man can have.


Overtime, I realized - without knowing all the smart stuff you said above - that grey is the color I most like in suits. My suit wardrobe now is all grey, except for one navy.

If I was building a wardrobe de novo, I would look to own no more than five or six (not summer) suits, all high quality and all some shade of grey.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## StephenRG (Apr 7, 2005)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 62619


5 buttons???


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

StephenRG said:


> 5 buttons???


I noticed that. Just a little bit dandy-ish, but not fatally so.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

I disagree with his choice of trousers.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Of course, the shirt has to go!


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

nice fabric but way too tight.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Unusual shades of blue that actually work very well.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 65054
> 
> 
> View attachment 65055


The top photo is a stunningly handsome jacket. The chosen tie and shirt pair extremely well with the jacket!


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 65171


What the hell's he doing with his hand in the other guys pocket? :icon_scratch:


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## immanuelrx (Dec 7, 2013)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 62673
> 
> 
> I disagree with his choice of trousers.


100% Different trousers would have made this outfit way better.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## StephenRG (Apr 7, 2005)

Yosel Tiefenbrun - cashmere and silk. (Not sure about the sweater, though...)


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Rather a nice ensemble--if only it fit!


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Oldsarge said:


> View attachment 73619


I recall seeing the jacket above in the Ben Silver catalogues. Nice jacket, but pricey, for sure.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Here's a man who knows the 'why' of pockets!


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Oldsarge said:


> Here's a man who knows the 'why' of pockets!
> 
> View attachment 74455


I hate to disagree and I'm not sure whether I should hold my late, sainted Mama or my USAF Training Instructors accountable, but it seems, for much of my life I've had someone counseling me against putting stuff in my pockets. LOL.


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## drpeter (Nov 21, 2008)

eagle2250 said:


> I hate to disagree and I'm not sure whether I should hold my late, sainted Mama or my USAF Training Instructors accountable, but it seems, for much of my life I've had someone counseling me against putting stuff in my pockets. LOL.


Haha, does that include the redoubtable Mrs Eagle too?


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

eagle2250 said:


> I hate to disagree and I'm not sure whether I should hold my late, sainted Mama or my USAF Training Instructors accountable, but it seems, for much of my life I've had someone counseling me against putting stuff in my pockets. LOL.


I'm sorry but they were wrong.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Sometimes neutral just doesn't do it.


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## drpeter (Nov 21, 2008)

Red jackets can be fun, especially during the Christmas/New Year holiday season. This one is especially neat, being double-breasted.


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)

Ah luv flannel!


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## Oldsarge (Feb 20, 2011)




----------

