# J. Crew heading upmarket?



## katon (Dec 25, 2006)

I guess I stopped paying attention to them for a bit, but they're really doing some interesting things, supporting some classic brands... maybe introducing them to a younger audience?

Recent J. Crew offerings:




Aldens for J. Crew


Italian-made desert boots


Welsh-made Corgi socks


Drakes of London suspenders


U.S.-made 3-inch emblematic ties


Billykirk Amish-made trilbies



D.R. Harris toiletries




Swaine Adeney Brigg luggage



Russell for J. Crew



Quoddy for J. Crew


Danner for J. Crew


"Fair Isle" wool socks from Vermont


Rogers Peet-inspired(!!) U.S. made wool popover camp shirts


Down jackets from Crescent Down Works in Seattle


J. Crew-branded Barbour Bedales


English-made Brady fishing bags

It seems like they've come a long way since the sweatshop-in-Saipan allegations of the 90s... are folks really buying these, or are they simply eye-candy items for generating buzz in the blogosphere?


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## joenobody0 (Jun 30, 2009)

I agree. They either are, have in the past, or will in the future, be offering C&J's as well. I feel like some of these items should be available at Brooks Brothers instead of J Crew. J Crew is doing a really great job with these items, especially the sourcing locations - the less made in China clothes being sold for top dollar the better.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Not too shabby. I still wish their clothing was, well, not so trendy in look and cut. J. Crew used to be fairly timeless just a decade ago.

By the way, love the blog. I'm a Follower.


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## roman totale XVII (Sep 18, 2009)

The cut and cloth of their clothing still leaves me cold (but I'm about 20 years over their target) however, they are doing a good job with a lot of their accessory items. You can argue about the motive and how much their audience is taking in, but they are taking the road that quality and origin matter and that can only be a good thing. I was recently in a J Crew store and the 20-something sales associate put many a BB SA to shame.


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## hookem12387 (Dec 29, 2009)

They've been doing their collabs for awhile now (Alden, Quoddy, Barbour, etc...). It's great and all, but they don't offer the stuff at most of their stores. It's good for bringing their name a bit upmarket without bringing their goods there. I am a little curious about the ties, though


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

I do like their accessories. I found a good number of their socks are made in the USA or other developed countries, too.


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## bd79cc (Dec 20, 2006)

I've been buying my ties at J. Crew for the past several years. I'm glad to see them following the kiddies into adulthood and teaching them a bit of good sartorial taste along the way.


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## unmodern (Aug 10, 2009)

+1. Haters will hate, but J. Crew was my gateway drug. Things still worth buying: ties, socks, Essential Chinos, maybe the BDs if a shorter collar flatters you. I can't really understand the comment about their fit being trendy---their rises are a bit on the low side, but if you think they are trendy you have no conception of modern fashion. Like J. Press and Brooks Slim, mainline J. Crew is made for the average-sized to slightly plump man. Sure, they have ultra-ultra-Slim cuts, but these are always in addition to Regular and my favorite, Classic. The rise on the Classic Fit could be a bit higher, but it is not recognizable as late-90's / 2000's low-rise mania: in fact they look a lot like the trou students are wearing in Taking Ivy. Honestly, BB's Milano Fit is as ridiculous as any trouser J. Crew has committed.


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## Danny (Mar 24, 2005)

Those are some nice looking items. I don't usually buy much of anything from J Crew, but I will certainly take a look.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

unmodern said:


> +1. Haters will hate, but J. Crew was my gateway drug. Things still worth buying: ties, socks, Essential Chinos, maybe the BDs if a shorter collar flatters you. I can't really understand the comment about their fit being trendy---their rises are a bit on the low side, but if you think they are trendy you have no conception of modern fashion. Like J. Press and Brooks Slim, mainline J. Crew is made for the average-sized to slightly plump man. Sure, they have ultra-ultra-Slim cuts, but these are always in addition to Regular and my favorite, Classic. The rise on the Classic Fit could be a bit higher, but it is not recognizable as late-90's / 2000's low-rise mania: in fact they look a lot like the trou students are wearing in Taking Ivy. Honestly, BB's Milano Fit is as ridiculous as any trouser J. Crew has committed.


I don't think there are too many fans of the Milano here either!


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## 127.72 MHz (Feb 16, 2007)

Jovan said:


> Not too shabby. I still wish their clothing was, well, not so trendy in look and cut. J. Crew used to be fairly timeless just a decade ago.
> 
> By the way, love the blog. I'm a Follower.


No doubt they offer some "upmarket" accessories but taking into consideration the poor quality of their fabric, trendy cut, and lack of attention to detail from their "lowest vendor country" clothing lines and I'd say they'll never be a player on the quality front.

Do you know of *any* company, in any business, that's had a degree of success that didn't try to take their products "upmarket?"


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^
While I really do like J Crew's upscale collaborations, I have to admit, with my head of very, very grey to white hair, feeling decidedly out of place walking through our local J Crew store.. I too get the impression that J Crew is not the store for the older gentleman!


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## efdll (Sep 11, 2008)

J Crew is Brooks Brothers stood on its head. It was always cheap traditional/preppy, and today that inevitably means manufacture in cheap labor countries, now moving up river, while BB, the mainstay of tradition, has tried to court younger, trendier clientele for decades, thus cheapening both its image and its lines. In the end, they wind up being about the same. Add the Ralph Lauren factor: a nose for an upper-class image and a gift for ransacking L.L. Bean, Levi-Strauss and Brooks Brothers itself. It's all about marketing, and this forum is a refuge from it, even if it teeters at the edge of the abyss of becoming trendy in spite of itself. Exhibit A: the other "J", Press, Asian-owned and trendy in Asia. In the end, J Crew's marketing ploy may help buttress some fine American firms and teaching some younger folk a thing or two about the relationship of quality to style, something earlier learned by being to the manor born or going to college and picking up tips from those who were, from fellow students who were cognoscenti, and from profs, back when they still dressed, in a wonderfully shabby manner, to teach class. I do like J Crew "broken in" tee shirts, I must admit. Nice colors, soft fabric, better fit than any, and no obnoxious logo.


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## sjk (Dec 1, 2007)

The SAB luggage looks incredible. But I'd like to see the sales figures. What is the typical J. Crew customer filling this bag with- his shirts from Charvet or broken-in tees? And then where is he putting this bag- baggage check? If there is somebody here who shops at J. Crew and frequently flies in a G V, please let us know.


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## inq89 (Dec 3, 2008)

While I don't shop there anymore, I do have JCrew to thank for leading me into trad. As said, it is a gateway drug and I am the perfect example. It wasn't as collaborative and "fashiony" as it is now a few years ago when I was a fan, but I do like the fact that they are introducing to the mass market trad-esque brands and styles. Alden for example, which is all the rage now on fashion mags like GQ, and owes its popularity partly to JCrew. 

I see JCrew as the pinnacle modern take on American ivy/trad, updated for the fashion-minded, mall shopping, young consumer. I commend them for pushing Barbour, Corgi, etc. to the common young man who would have never heard of those brands otherwise.

I still like some of JCrew styles and clothing but mostly for the basics. It has gone too slim and urban for my tastes and I feel the prices have steadily risen.


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## Titus_A (Jun 23, 2010)

J. Crew specializes in taking attractive clothes (or clothes that would be attractive if not cut oddly) and putting them on models in the most unattractive manner possible. But a lot of it looks worthwhile.


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## leisureclass (Jan 31, 2011)

We get the catalog in the mail every once in awhile for some reason, and one of the last ones we got had this two page spread on 'essentials for a man's wardrobe' or something like that, where they had 'paid attention to provenance' or some similar wording. In theory a nice idea, something upmarket and not made in the 3rd world for the bloggers and forums to go crazy over and the average customer doesn't notice, but the whole idea of 'essentials' that were also _incredibly marked up_ and _limited edition_ was somewhat humorous.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

One of the better parodies of the current artisinal/curated/heritage craze.

https://www.artisanalpencilsharpening.com/


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## CMDC (Jan 31, 2009)

^Right up there with Portlandia's take on artisinal lightbulbs.


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

Trip English said:


> One of the better parodies of the current artisinal/curated/heritage craze.
> 
> https://www.artisanalpencilsharpening.com/


Can someone please explain what it means to "curate" an article of clothing? I see that in the blogs a lot. I feel like I should paint my closet interior white, put up a velvet rope and charge admission or something (half price for students and seniors, of course).


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## filfoster (Aug 23, 2011)

I am also at least 20 years beyond their target but because my cardio rehab diet has left me pretty thin, I don't look too bad in their clothes (honestly, their shorts are the only ones cut thin enough to look good on me). Their jackets are a tad too skimpy for my taste but I have one and their sweaters and shoes are also very nice indeed. Sort of 'Trad-light'?


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## WouldaShoulda (Aug 5, 2009)

leisureclass said:


> We get the catalog in the mail every once in awhile for some reason, and one of the last ones we got had this two page spread on 'essentials for a man's wardrobe' or something like that, where they had 'paid attention to provenance' or some similar wording. In theory a nice idea, something upmarket and not made in the 3rd world for the bloggers and forums to go crazy over and the average customer doesn't notice, but the whole idea of 'essentials' that were also _incredibly marked up_ and _limited edition_ was somewhat humorous.


The "organic" and "farm to table" craze in restaurants drives me nutty too. I eat reasonably well every day, so that when I go out, I can eat all the butter, fat, pie and red meat I can stand!!

I read a processed chicken package recently. It stated that feeding chickens hormones is against Federal Regulation. So every "organic" product that screems "no hormones" on it's package is just re-stating the obvious.

Marketing. :devil:


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## tsweetland (Oct 2, 2006)

J. Crew has been doing this for a few years now and generally has stuff that as nice and classic as some of the more traditional places. Plus, it's a perfect fir for those of us who like the understated classics but don't want to look like our grandfathers.


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## dwebber18 (Jun 5, 2008)

J. Crew is a great place for my wife because they offer classically inspired clothes in sizes and fit she can actually wear. We always go in to BB and even some nice ladies boutiques and she rarely finds anything that doesn't make her look 20 years too old or even fits. J. Crew works for her because of this. I do agree however they take good classic looking items and shrink them weirdly or charge way too much for thin fabric, this doesn't suit me well. So I go with her and look and enjoy some of the patterns and I walk out having bought nothing.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

^ Story of my life in many clothing places. She always comes out with things that work great for her, but my hands are empty. I think our breed are just pickier than the average man!


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## bd79cc (Dec 20, 2006)

filfoster said:


> I am also at least 20 years beyond their target but because my cardio rehab diet has left me pretty thin, I don't look too bad in their clothes (honestly, their shorts are the only ones cut thin enough to look good on me). Their jackets are a tad too skimpy for my taste but I have one and their sweaters and shoes are also very nice indeed. Sort of 'Trad-light'?


Do you remember the J. Crew from 25 years ago, back when they were mail-order only? They certainly qualified for the "Trad Lite" label at the time. They occupied the niche between Brooks, next to whom they appeared very slightly more fashion-forward, what with offerings like button-down denim shirts, and PRL, next to whom J. Crew had a plainer, less-fitted look with more basic, less-sumptuous fabrics. Perhaps J. Crew's taking a page out of one of their older playbooks with the Aldens, Quoddys, Danners, and nice ties.


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## filfoster (Aug 23, 2011)

But I DO look like my grandfather! Exactly! Well, except for my J. Crew duds.



tsweetland said:


> J. Crew has been doing this for a few years now and generally has stuff that as nice and classic as some of the more traditional places. Plus, it's a perfect fir for those of us who like the understated classics but don't want to look like our grandfathers.


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## Clay J (Apr 29, 2008)

I like the Trad-lite analogy, and living in Cincinnati, I wish that the Alden boots would go on sale in store instead of getting shipped back, or wherever they disappear to, because I know nobody at Kenwood Towne Center is buying $350-450 boots.


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## jwooten (Dec 19, 2010)

Clay J said:


> I like the Trad-lite analogy, and living in Cincinnati, I wish that the Alden boots would go on sale in store instead of getting shipped back, or wherever they disappear to, because I know nobody at Kenwood Towne Center is buying $350-450 boots.


Ditto on the sale. I was at one of J. Crew's actual "clearance" stores(not outlet) and they had some of the alden shoes and other "semi-dress" shoes at pretty good prices. None of them were my size so I let them be. But when they have their next warehouse sale, the fiance has been instructed to grab any boot or blucher in a size 11 D.


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## filfoster (Aug 23, 2011)

A bit off-thread, but I craved a pair of Alden 405's for my inner Indy, and found a sale online for these at $120 off, from a store in Washington state. I can't imagine younger J. Crew shoppers haven't figured that one as well. 
Glad to meet a fellow Cincy forum member here.



Clay J said:


> I like the Trad-lite analogy, and living in Cincinnati, I wish that the Alden boots would go on sale in store instead of getting shipped back, or wherever they disappear to, because I know nobody at Kenwood Towne Center is buying $350-450 boots.


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## ArtVandalay (Apr 29, 2010)

Next time I see someone else here in Cincy walking around in a sack tweed, amongst masses of Bengals jerseys, cargo shorts, and athletic sandals, I'll know it must be one of you gentlemen.



filfoster said:


> A bit off-thread, but I craved a pair of Alden 405's for my inner Indy, and found a sale online for these at $120 off, from a store in Washington state. I can't imagine younger J. Crew shoppers haven't figured that one as well.
> Glad to meet a fellow Cincy forum member here.


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## filfoster (Aug 23, 2011)

Yes, and you describe Bengals fans in winter. Well my new Hardwick Harris tweed sport coat is going to get used for tomorrow's 'casual Friday', with this cold front arriving today. Brrrrrrrrr.



ArtVandalay said:


> Next time I see someone else here in Cincy walking around in a sack tweed, amongst masses of Bengals jerseys, cargo shorts, and athletic sandals, I'll know it must be one of you gentlemen.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Just avoid any protests wearing that! :crazy:


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## Bricktop (Feb 10, 2010)

hardline_42 said:


> Can someone please explain what it means to "curate" an article of clothing? I see that in the blogs a lot. I feel like I should paint my closet interior white, put up a velvet rope and charge admission or something (half price for students and seniors, of course).


I thoroughly agree. "Curated" is one of the most pretentious buzzwords around now. Please let it go back to the museum soon.

Back on topic, I shopped at JCrew many years ago, and I am glad to see them doing these collaborations as they give me a chance to see some of this gear in person fairly locally.


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## dparm (Nov 18, 2008)

I've been wondering about all these "____ for J.Crew" things they sell, namely shoes. They have Quoddys and Alden Indy boots, for example -- are those truly identical to a non-J.Crew version or have they changed things somehow?

Seems like an easy way to grab Aldens or Quoddys, but I am hesitant because I'm not certain what I'm really buying. Their Sperrys, for example, are different (better leather, they claim).


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^
The quality of the Alden and Quoddy footwear sold by J Crew is the same as what can be found shopping at an Alden store or buying directly from Quoddy and the delivery time is much more certain if you buy your Quoddys from J Crew or other second party vendors who carry Quoddy stock! With some of the brands J Crew sells, there can be some minor variation in the constructiion details, but not the quality of same.


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## StevenRocks (May 24, 2005)

Don't really shop here anymore, but I do like a lot of the things J. Crew is doing now, especially the collaborations. Brooks Brothers fits me better and I have enough clothes right now, but I am a fan.


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## hockeyinsider (May 8, 2006)

katon said:


> I guess I stopped paying attention to them for a bit, but they're really doing some interesting things, supporting some classic brands... maybe introducing them to a younger audience?
> 
> It seems like they've come a long way since the sweatshop-in-Saipan allegations of the 90s... are folks really buying these, or are they simply eye-candy items for generating buzz in the blogosphere?


J. Crew has been doing the collaborations with more established brands for a couple of years now. Frankly, it probably makes sense from a business standpoint. It's probably too expensive to develop your own offerings in some of these areas and the quality make be dubious at best. By bringing in a reputable brand, they can mark up the price, make some money and get added creditability. It's also probably a win-win for some of these older brands, who want to attract younger customers.

One of the downsides of J. Crew's strategy in recent years has been a noticeable increase in price without a noticeable increase in quality. There aren't nearly the sales as before either. I used to buy a lot of ties on sale plus a 10% student discount circa 2005-2007.


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## hockeyinsider (May 8, 2006)

127.72 MHz said:


> No doubt they offer some "upmarket" accessories but taking into consideration the poor quality of their fabric, trendy cut, and lack of attention to detail from their "lowest vendor country" clothing lines and I'd say they'll never be a player on the quality front.
> 
> Do you know of *any* company, in any business, that's had a degree of success that didn't try to take their products "upmarket?"


I would be interested in comparing the quality of J. Crew verses Lands' End Canvas or L.L. Bean Signature. Both of those mail-order retailers launched the respective brands to compete with J. Crew and attract the 21-35 demographic. I have noticed that Club Monaco is making a lot of changes in the last year or two as well. They used to be a very trendy shop, but have sort of changed their look of late. There was a big publicity gimmick last week or the week before about a new "made in America" line from Club Monaco, which was sort of funny as the company is headquartered in Canada.


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## hockeyinsider (May 8, 2006)

For those interested in a little insight into J. Crew, read this article from the Financial Times on the company's chief executive officer:

https://www.ft.com/intl/cms/s/2/bcf99a3e-fb01-11e0-bebe-00144feab49a.html#axzz1cMmPXJnG



> Lunch with the FT: Mickey Drexler
> 
> By Vanessa Friedman
> 
> ...


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## NotoriousMarquis (Mar 8, 2011)

I really think what J Crew is doing is introducing certain classic things to a hip market and making the prices skyrocket. Remember 2 years ago indy boots were 325, and the JCrew indy's 3 years ago were 250. Now they're over 450 dollars. 
I really find that the quality of their shirts is terrible, especially at 69 dollars a pop for a wrinkled and oddly cut oxford shirt. They have some great sweaters when they're on sale, but I wouldnt pay 70 dollars for not virgin lambswool. It's kind of criminal.


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## Semper Jeep (Oct 11, 2011)

hockeyinsider said:


> I would be interested in comparing the quality of J. Crew verses Lands' End Canvas or L.L. Bean Signature. Both of those mail-order retailers launched the respective brands to compete with J. Crew and attract the 21-35 demographic...


I'm at the upper end of that demographic and used to be a frequent shopper of J. Crew and am still a frequent shopper of LL Bean (and Signature). My problem with J. Crew is one that has been mentioned in this thread by a few folks: prices have been increasing with little to no increase in quality offered. I do like many of the collaborations but the few that have interested me enough that I might purchase them, just inspire me to go look for the original item: Why buy a Barbour for J. Crew jacket when I can just go to the Orvis store and select from many different styles of Barbour, all in stock and ready to be tried on? Nice Welsh made Corgi socks there at J. Crew... I bet with 4 minutes of internet sloothing I can find other Corgi socks with similar patterns cheaper from some random retailer.

I don't buy much of the regular J. Crew items any more because I've found the quality of their pants to be awful (I've never really had a pair from them I liked all that much) and their shirts seemed to have gotten thinner and thinner over the past few seasons.


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## katon (Dec 25, 2006)

Semper Jeep said:


> I do like many of the collaborations but the few that have interested me enough that I might purchase them, just inspire me to go look for the original item: Why buy a Barbour for J. Crew jacket when I can just go to the Orvis store and select from many different styles of Barbour, all in stock and ready to be tried on? Nice Welsh made Corgi socks there at J. Crew... I bet with 4 minutes of internet sloothing I can find other Corgi socks with similar patterns cheaper from some random retailer.


It looks a bit like J. Crew may be going after the "little details" market with their collaborations. Maybe a younger version of the customer who wants not just Alden LHS loafers, but Alden LHS for Brooks Brothers loafers? Often there is some minor difference that makes the J. Crew version unique.


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## SuitsTiesSocks (Jul 4, 2011)

J. Crew used to be terrific in the early '90s, when it was only a mail-order business. I had many tops and pullovers in really nice colors; the thing that struck me the most about J. Crew then was the boldness of the colors. The prices were reasonable as well. Then when it went "big" (read: retail), it changed. I was lucky to buy a decent rugby shirt there, but the pricing went sky-high and when I browse there now, the selection is no different than what you'll see at Banana Republic, just more preppier.

P.S.--Any trad men from Colorado here?


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## Valkyrie (Aug 27, 2009)

> Any trad men from Colorado here?


There are a few of us here-I'd say I've seen posts from a half dozen or so, at least among those that will admit their locations.


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