# Should I re-proof my Barbour on my own or send it in to Barbour?



## rbstc123 (Jun 13, 2007)

All,
My Barbour Beaufort is in need of re-proofing (wax) so I visited Orvis this weekend to purchase a tin of re-proofing dressing. Several employees at the store basically talked me out of the purchase stating that most people who purchase the dressing to do it themselves almost always are not satisfied with the results. They all recommended sending it back to Barbour for the service. While I understand this is "the easy way" I am interested in the DIY approach.

How many Barbour owners out there have re-proofed their own jackets at home? Were you satisfied with the results? Would you do it again? I am very meticulous and feel as though I would do a good job. I understand it is very messy and smelly but IMO it is sort of a rite of passage if you own a Barbour. 

Further thoughts on DIY?

Thanks for any input you may offer.


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## Gurdon (Feb 7, 2005)

*It is a bit messy, but not at all smelly*

I have rewaxed a few Barbour jackets. It involves keeping the can of wax warm, and working the stuff into the fabric using a hair dryer to heat it as you rub. I also sent one jacket in for repair and re-proofing.

The process, although a bit tedious, is not difficult or physically demanding. Having done it more than once, I will probably have Barbour do it next time.

Hope this is useful.

Regards,
Gurdon


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

I would recommend having Orvis send it in. It's $29 and it comes back looking brand new. I've done it myself before and still DIY it for my field/hunting waxed cotton garments, but I just don't have the tools to get the professional looking results I want for my dressier Barbours.. The reproofing facility in NH has warming tables that they lay the coats on and all kinds of other goodies to make sure it goes on smooth and even. If you really want to try it yourself, go right ahead, you won't damage the coat and it may come out to your liking. I just don't think it's worth the hassle when you already have the reproofing service available.


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## Trip English (Dec 22, 2008)

I've done it once so far and the above description couldn't be more accurate. It's tedious, but not demanding in any way. You just get it good and oily. The only thing to remember is that it will be more oily than you think it should be, but that's the right amount of oily.


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## Bjorn (May 2, 2010)

I've reproofed Barbour jackets three times. Every time they came out great. 

I've read a post somewhere from an ex Barbour employer who described how they'd reproof in-house, and it was pretty much exactly the same as you would do it. 

Heat is crucial, the wax should be fully liquified. 

I went over the jackets with a hair dryer after waxing. Came out great. 

Reproofing yourself is the traditional way. It's like shining your shoes...


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Bjorn said:


> ...
> .....
> Reproofing yourself is the traditional way. It's like shining your shoes...


For those owning their Barbours for many years, there was a time, not so very long ago, when re-proofing your own was the only option available. Does that make it traditional or just the only option we had?While certainly do-able as a DIY project, the convenience and pricing of sending the coat in and having someone else do it (and very nicely, I might add!) and send it back to you for the next couple of years use, is just irresistable.

Oddly, while I find shining my shoes to be a relaxing experience, re-waxing a coat is mildly stressful in comparison. :icon_scratch: Go figure! :crazy:


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

Bjorn said:


> Reproofing yourself is the traditional way. It's like shining your shoes...


I think it's actually more like Sno-sealing your boots. It's messy, smelly and hard to gauge your progress. It's one of those tasks that I just don't like doing, unlike shoe shining.

If having a Barbour reproofed cost more than it does, I might consider DIYing it worthwhile, but at less than 10% the cost of a brand new jacket, It's well worth it to avoid the time, effort and clean-up required to do it at home.


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

I've done it a few times. As recommended above, liquify the wax, but also, once the wax is applied, go over the coat with a hair dryer set on hot, and rub it in a bit with a rag. This will even out the wax, and get it into all the nooks and crannies


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## Bjorn (May 2, 2010)

It's a simple procedure that needs to be done once a year if the coat is to maintain properly. I thought it was kinda fun...

But then I enjoy waxing cars, polishing silverware, mending clothes etc. And it does take a while to do properly. 

I would only send in a coat that needs alteration/mending. But if the sleeves are a bit long or there's a tear, why not send it in.


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## Mike147 (Jan 15, 2006)

I sent my Filson coat out for a re-proofing and I am expecting it back today. Will let you know how it comes out... Again - Filson uses a place in NH - same place as everyone else I think. It cost me $42 + shipping.


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

Mike147 said:


> I sent my Filson coat out for a re-proofing and I am expecting it back today. Will let you know how it comes out... Again - Filson uses a place in NH - same place as everyone else I think. It cost me $42 + shipping.


You're thinking of . Barbour's US headquarters are also in NH (Milford), but they have their own reproofing facilities.


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## CuffDaddy (Feb 26, 2009)

I've done mine twice. It is a messy job that takes an hour or so to do right. But if you do it yourself, you have control. For instance, you can give the jacket an extra thick layer on the upper surfaces, but leave it light under the arms and elsewhere to let it breathe a little better.

When it comes time to do it again, I will re-proof it again myself. Not hard, just takes a little effort, but it makes the jacket really _yours_.


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## Buster86 (Jul 2, 2009)

I may be missing something here. In England, people tend to like their Barbours to look very well worn indeed - even scruffy. The tattier the jacket, the better. Small rips, tears, scuffs and patched up holes are a must. Many people even trample their jackets or shoot at them to achieve this look a little quicker! A new-looking jacket is a big no-no.

I'm guessing from some of the comments here that isn't the view taken in the US?


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

^^ I think it's a personal thing, but by and large most prefer the "lived in" look. The problem for us (not sure about the UK) is that Barbour no longer sells repair kits. I've got a Bedale that has a collection of small holes at both elbows that would be perfect candidate for elbow patches, but my only recourse is having the sleeves replaced by Barbour. As for a full reproofing, I've already shared my opinion. But some will go to great lengths to salvage the unsalvageable.


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## CuffDaddy (Feb 26, 2009)

Buster86 said:


> I'm guessing from some of the comments here that isn't the view taken in the US?


It's the view taken here! I agree that a totally knackered Barbour looks right, and a new one looks... well, not very credible. (I was actually confronted one time by a pair of older men in a store who I suspect resented the sudden popularity of Barbour jackets among those whom they took to be poseurs; they asked whether I actually went shooting while wearing mine. I was able to truthfully respond that I had used up a few cases of 12 and 20 gauge shells while wearing mine, and they seemed duly satisfied. I would have thought the thoroughly-worn nature of mine would have been enough, but they wanted verbal confirmation, I guess.)


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## Epaminondas (Oct 19, 2009)

hardline_42 said:


> I would recommend having Orvis send it in. It's $29 and it comes back looking brand new.


 If that's the case, I'd send it in. rbstc, you probably missed the window on easy self re-proofing. I've done it many, many times on multiple Barbours and the easiest way to do it down here in Georgia is take the jacket outside on a cloudless day in June-August and lay it out on a table in direct sunlight with a tin of wax in hot water. The sun will liquify the wax on your jacket and keep the wax in the tin liquid as well or it will melt almost immediately after applying it to the fabric (you'd be amazed at how hot the fabric gets on a hot day in direct sunlight). You won't need a hairdryer or any other implements. However, as I said the time is likely past for easy outdoor application as the weather has cooled. For $29, I'd avoid the mess and hassle and simply send it in if Orvis can get back to you in a reasonable time.


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## CuffDaddy (Feb 26, 2009)

Epam', that's good advice. I didn't have any problem, though, reproofing mine indoors and in the dead of winter a couple of years ago. I just put the tin into a bowl of warm water, gooped the stuff on and worked it in with my hands, and let it hang dry for a couple of days.


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## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

Buster86 said:


> I may be missing something here. In England, people tend to like their Barbours to look very well worn indeed - even scruffy. The tattier the jacket, the better. Small rips, tears, scuffs and patched up holes are a must. Many people even trample their jackets or shoot at them to achieve this look a little quicker! A new-looking jacket is a big no-no.
> 
> I'm guessing from some of the comments here that isn't the view taken in the US?


That's the way I like 'em, Buster, but also waterproof; and why take a few years off their useful life through accelerated wear? Besides, the satisfaction of donning a well-worn jacket would be diminished.


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## rbstc123 (Jun 13, 2007)

Bjorn said:


> It's a simple procedure that needs to be done once a year if the coat is to maintain properly. I thought it was kinda fun...
> 
> But then I enjoy waxing cars, polishing silverware, mending clothes etc. And it does take a while to do properly.
> 
> I would only send in a coat that needs alteration/mending. But if the sleeves are a bit long or there's a tear, why not send it in.





CuffDaddy said:


> I've done mine twice. It is a messy job that takes an hour or so to do right. But if you do it yourself, you have control. For instance, you can give the jacket an extra thick layer on the upper surfaces, but leave it light under the arms and elsewhere to let it breathe a little better.
> 
> When it comes time to do it again, I will re-proof it again myself. Not hard, just takes a little effort, but it makes the jacket really _yours_.



Thanks to everyone for all the great responses. It seems as though it's a preference. I feel the need to state that I am not attempting to make my jacket appear as if new again. I am simply wanting the waterproofness back. I was in a downpour last year and my shoulders got soaked.

The two post above struck a chord with me. I think every Barbour owner should reproof their Barbour on their own at least once for the experience. I'm gonna give it a shot.

Epam,
I thought about missing the window as well. My Barbour can literally stand up on it's own. It looks like a Christmas tree without lights.  However, during the hotter spring days it turns into butter. If I can get my garage hot enough with a space heater I may try it in the next few weeks. If not I'll wait to send it in next Spring. Orvis said it was currently an 8 week turnaround. Yowzers!

Thanks again fellas.


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

rbstc123 said:


> Orvis said it was currently an 8 week turnaround. Yowzers!


Right before fall is the worst time to send it because they get backed up. I send mine in the summer time. Sounds like it's time to crank up the hair dryer and get to smearin'.


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## Epaminondas (Oct 19, 2009)

rbstc123 said:


> Epam,
> I thought about missing the window as well. My Barbour can literally stand up on it's own. It looks like a Christmas tree without lights.  However, during the hotter spring days it turns into butter. If I can get my garage hot enough with a space heater I may try it in the next few weeks. If not I'll wait to send it in next Spring. Orvis said it was currently an 8 week turnaround. Yowzers!
> 
> Thanks again fellas.


I remember last year around Oct. 28th or so, it got up to the high 80s for a day or so - you may have a shot left. Direct, warm sunlight works better than merely a warm room (i.e., the ambient temperature). The olive fabric really absorbs the sun rays and gets hot in direct light - I certainly, at least, would try to get some wax on the shoulders - buy a cheap hairdryer and give it a shot if nothing else (I bought one specifically for Sno-Seal and reproofing Filsons and Barbours).


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## rbstc123 (Jun 13, 2007)

^
Good point about the sun on the dark material. Hopefully I will get a warm/hot Saturday soon so I can knock it out.

What is best to use to apply the wax?


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## Epaminondas (Oct 19, 2009)

rbstc123 said:


> ^
> Good point about the sun on the dark material. Hopefully I will get a warm/hot Saturday soon so I can knock it out.
> 
> What is best to use to apply the wax?


I go hi-tech and use my fingers - a brush would work if the wax were liquid.


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## medhat (Jan 15, 2006)

Well, if you start on the project and decide to bail, and don't want to wait the 8 weeks from Orvis, I had my first coat done by "Green Mountain Outfitters" who also did some much needed repairs, all at a very reasonable cost. I would highly recommend them. It beat my lackluster at-home effort by a long shot.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Have to say I'd rather pay them to reapply it when the weather doesn't warrant the use of a Barbour. But then, I rarely trust myself doing anything besides pressing trousers and shirts...


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## Bjorn (May 2, 2010)

A piece of cloth works. 

Reheat the wax if it stiffens up, even it out with the hair dryer. Good luck.


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## CuffDaddy (Feb 26, 2009)

Ditto to Epam' on slopping it on by hand. Even when warm, the stuff is too gooey for a brush; you'd have to use a spackle knife. But your hands also let you really work it in and feel when the coating is good enough. I kept one hand clean by supporting the coat from within, then used the other to apply the stuff. I last did mine a couple of years ago, and my hand hardly smells like proofing at all anymore!


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

Here's how it's done.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

I leave my tin of Murray's Pomade (pretty much a wax) in a window facing the sun to soften it, whenever possible. Maybe the same principle would work with this wax?


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## Mike147 (Jan 15, 2006)

Filson re-proofing came out well... Haven't worn it in the rain yet


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

hardline_42 said:


> Here's how it's done.


Interesting video. However, I've reproofed my old jacket a sufficient number of times to come to the conclusion that for $30+ it is really wrth it to have 'the company store' do the work. LOL. As my age advances I'm either getting lazy or perhaps, just old!


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## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

eagle2250 said:


> Interesting video. However, I've reproofed my old jacket a sufficient number of times to come to the conclusion that for $30+ it is really wrth it to have 'the company store' do the work. LOL. As my age advances I'm either getting lazy or perhaps, just old!


Eagle, I'm with you 100%.


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## Bjorn (May 2, 2010)

Follow up: I just got an old battered holey stinky Durham off eBay.co.uk for 10£ that I though I'd fix up myself as a project. 




Have so far stripped the lining out, washed it thoroughly (including soaking it in octagon and water for 3 days), washed and scrubbed the waxed shell thoroughly with cold water, reproofed the shell on inside and out, and made reparations to shell and lining. Got an old barbour repair kit off eBay as well, with the right thread. 

The shell looks gorgeous reproofed and mended. Like the hood and the flyweight shell. 



Will wait a week to let the wax set properly, and then apply some water proofing spray to the outside of the lining and reattach it. Have a zipper problem, it won't come apart since it was incorrectly fastened. Well see if I solve it or get a new zipper. 

Will most probably never buy a used Barbour without taking the lining out and washing it, or send it in to wash and proof, the amount of nastiness I washed out of that lining was simply astounding. It's squeaky clean now, and a much brighter color.


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## SaltyDawg (Sep 9, 2011)

I reproofed all three of my Barbour jackets this past weekend. It was extremely easy, and would be for you as well. I followed the directions on the tin of Barbour Wax Dressing explicitly and it went off without a hitch and was not messy at all. I purchased two tins of Wax Dressing, but ended up using only one tin for all three Beaufort jackets. And, I used ample amounts of Dressing on each...didn't skimp at all. I'm really glad I did it myself since I'm a little OCD and wanted it done correctly. I cleaned the jackets with ice water and let them dry. I then got my supplies together...an old t-shirt cut into two pieces, the tin of Dressing, a hair dryer and a towel. I boiled a pot of water and then put the opened tin of wax in the pot. The wax melted completely within five minutes. During the time the wax was melting, I heated the jacket all over with the hair dryer. I then applied the melted wax all over the jacket with the cloth...took about 45 minutes. I then hung the jacket fully zipped, and blew hot air from the hair dryer all over it to remelt the wax, which it did very rapidly. As the hair dryer heat remelted the wax, I took my bare hand to rub any splotches back into the jacket. It took about fifteen minutes to reheat the jacket. All done, you can completely reproof your jacket in an hour and with no mess. I will definitely continue to reproof my Barbours...I can do it actually better than sending it off. GO FOR IT!


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## hockeyinsider (May 8, 2006)

I have wanted to purchase a Barbour for a couple of years now. However, there are too many nice coats and jackets to pick just one (and frankly I don't know which would be best for chilly autumns and cold winters here in Michigan). Additionally, I am perplexed because the prices vary significant. On one end, you have the very high Orvis offerings and on the other a plethora of internet websites with Barbour. I also have heard the Barbour outlet store in Maine is considerably cheaper. In short, it is difficult to choose with this dilemma.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

SaltyDawg said:


> I reproofed all three of my Barbour jackets this past weekend. It was extremely easy, and would be for you as well. I followed the directions on the tin of Barbour Wax Dressing explicitly and it went off without a hitch and was not messy at all. I purchased two tins of Wax Dressing, but ended up using only one tin for all three Beaufort jackets. And, I used ample amounts of Dressing on each...didn't skimp at all. I'm really glad I did it myself since I'm a little OCD and wanted it done correctly. I cleaned the jackets with ice water and let them dry. I then got my supplies together...an old t-shirt cut into two pieces, the tin of Dressing, a hair dryer and a towel. I boiled a pot of water and then put the opened tin of wax in the pot. The wax melted completely within five minutes. During the time the wax was melting, I heated the jacket all over with the hair dryer. I then applied the melted wax all over the jacket with the cloth...took about 45 minutes. I then hung the jacket fully zipped, and blew hot air from the hair dryer all over it to remelt the wax, which it did very rapidly. As the hair dryer heat remelted the wax, I took my bare hand to rub any splotches back into the jacket. It took about fifteen minutes to reheat the jacket. All done, you can completely reproof your jacket in an hour and with no mess. I will definitely continue to reproof my Barbours...I can do it actually better than sending it off. GO FOR IT!


Curse you SaltyDog. LOL, I was so inspired by your story of success, I excitedly told the wife I just might reproof my jackets the next time one needed it. Her response, "The last time you did that, you almost ruined my kitchen table and left the house smelling like that awful wax, for a week. Please don't do this...send the darn coat off and have someone else do it, like you did the last time!" When you heated your wax to set it in the coat fabric, did it give off that 'old burned candle' oder? When I did that step...the last time I reproffed a Barbour I used a heat gun for stripping paint, rather than a hair dryercrazy. Perhaps that's where I messed up!


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## Bjorn (May 2, 2010)

eagle2250 said:


> Curse you SaltyDog. LOL, I was so inspired by your story of success, I excitedly told the wife I just might reproof my jackets the next time one needed it. Her response, "The last time you did that, you almost ruined my kitchen table and left the house smelling like that awful wax, for a week. Please don't do this...send the darn coat off and have someone else do it, like you did the last time!" When you heated your wax to set it in the coat fabric, did it give off that 'old burned candle' oder? When I did that step...the last time I reproffed a Barbour I used a heat gun for stripping paint, rather than a hair dryercrazy. Perhaps that's where I messed up!


Then the wax got too hot, a heat gun is way too hot for the wax.

I think it's important to show the missus you're capable now. Just make sure to wipe off the excess wax from her hair drier when you're done


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## Mr Jones (Mar 27, 2011)

When you're reproofing a coat without a removable lining (like my Belstaff Roadmaster), is there a danger of wax soaking through and ruining the lining?


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## Bjorn (May 2, 2010)

Mr Jones said:


> When you're reproofing a coat without a removable lining (like my Belstaff Roadmaster), is there a danger of wax soaking through and ruining the lining?


If it has been washed with detergent, and the wax has been washed out, or if there are holes in it, then yes. Otherwise no.

If it only has been washed in cold water it's ok.

If the jacket has had the original wax coating completely washed out, you need to take the lining out, wash the lining and the spray the lining with weather proofing spray on the side that is to be in contact with the waxed fabric, rewax the jacket and then sew in the lining. This is almost never necessary though.

If there are holes, just fix them before waxing, you should be fine.


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## Mr Jones (Mar 27, 2011)

Well, it's a good thing I asked! Disaster averted.

I got my Roadmaster on clearance from J.Crew and it has a "vintage" or "washed" finish, so there are many areas with little or no wax. I didn't expect it to be quite so wax free when I ordered it, but their clearance stuff is final sale so I have to make do. It looks good, and for the price I paid I can't complain.

New England Reproofers charge an extra $20 if a jacket has been machine washed or dry cleaned, which seems like a good deal considering the extra work that'll be involved. Does anyone know if they remove the lining, or if they just have some special tricks up their waxy sleeves?


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## Bjorn (May 2, 2010)

Mr Jones said:


> Well, it's a good thing I asked! Disaster averted.
> 
> I got my Roadmaster on clearance from J.Crew and it has a "vintage" or "washed" finish, so there are many areas with little or no wax. I didn't expect it to be quite so wax free when I ordered it, but their clearance stuff is final sale so I have to make do. It looks good, and for the price I paid I can't complain.
> 
> New England Reproofers charge an extra $20 if a jacket has been machine washed or dry cleaned, which seems like a good deal considering the extra work that'll be involved. Does anyone know if they remove the lining, or if they just have some special tricks up their waxy sleeves?


20$ is good deal. I don't think they remove the lining, they probably apply the wax in 2 stages or something like that. I don't know how to safely do that but at 20$ I would leave it to the pros.


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## Bjorn (May 2, 2010)

Finally got the jacket together. A lot more work than I thought, mainly due to my sewing machine not really being up to snuff. The Barbour thread is really thick and the waxed cloth as well. Turned out well, has the slightly 'ratty' look I wanted but is water proof:


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## keetner (Dec 18, 2011)

^ Wow, from what I can see, it look like it turned out really well! Especially since you only paid about 10 pounds for it... If I may ask, how long did the entire project take you? 


Instead of starting a new thread, I also thought I'd post this here:
I also had a question for any of you folks. When you guys purchase a brand new wax jacket, are you typically supposed to proof/wax it first? Or is it okay when it comes out from the store? I recently got my first Barbour jacket, but I don't know if I need to or not. It's just that I thought it would've been a lot waxier than it is now...so I'm not exactly sure what to do. I didn't buy it from an official store/site either -- I got it from a random store that sells them on eBay. 

Any help would be greatly appreciated though. Thank you!


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## Bjorn (May 2, 2010)

In the end, I guess it took around 8-10 hours  The time the lining spent presoaking in soap and being in the washer not included. 

But there was like 10 holes in it, the sleeves were torn, it was really dirty, and sewing the lining back in took forever. 

As far as proofing, I'd wait 6 months if the jacket is new.


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## keetner (Dec 18, 2011)

^ Oh I see. Still sounds like a fun project though. If you get the chance to, it'd be cool to see some close ups. 

And thanks kindly for the input. It's much appreciated


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## Guest (Feb 23, 2020)

rbstc123 said:


> All,
> My Barbour Beaufort is in need of re-proofing (wax) so I visited Orvis this weekend to purchase a tin of re-proofing dressing. Several employees at the store basically talked me out of the purchase stating that most people who purchase the dressing to do it themselves almost always are not satisfied with the results. They all recommended sending it back to Barbour for the service. While I understand this is "the easy way" I am interested in the DIY approach.
> 
> How many Barbour owners out there have re-proofed their own jackets at home? Were you satisfied with the results? Would you do it again? I am very meticulous and feel as though I would do a good job. I understand it is very messy and smelly but IMO it is sort of a rite of passage if you own a Barbour.
> ...


It's $50 plus $20 for return postage so DIY. Is worth a go


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## mhj (Oct 27, 2010)

Guest-385785 said:


> It's $50 plus $20 for return postage so DIY. Is worth a go


That was my experience too, unsatisfied and sent to Barbour via Orvis the next time.


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