# The Gloverall Conundrum



## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Indeed, it was a dark and stormy evening on which I accepted a UPS delivery from STP. Literally trembling with anticipation, I carefully opened the box containing what I expected was a "classic" Gloverall Duffel coat...the "Original", designed to protect British sailors from the wind driven rain and freezing temperatures of the North Atlantic and touted to retail for prices approaching $600! Can you imagine my shock and disappointment at finding my 'Gloverall Original' was essentially a collection of pattern cut wool scraps, well and nicely stitched together but, with absolutely no insulating material or lining to be found in the finished product. The windflap on the coat is secured by nothing but the horn and leather toggle assemblies, allowing prominent gaps in the coats ability to protect the wearer from the ravages of the elements and causing one to reasonably question, "where's the freaken zipper!" Those Royal Navy sailors of old, must have had antifreeze running in their veins, if this is the coat that kept them warm.

However, I paid $134 for the coat and...it is built like a $134 coat! So I guess I can't complain too loudly. I do have a couple of questions for those members of the forum, having prior experience with the Gloverall Duffel coat: Are they generally made with no lining or insulating material? Does Gloverall market their coats with varying levels of fit and finish as retail options? Is this beast as warm as it is advertised to be? Did STP just sell me a Yugo?

Thanks in advance for your feedback, Eagle


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Classic RN military issue duffle coats never had a lining and were nothing more than a heavy piece of wool, with hood, for wearing over about ten other layers, including underwear, shirt, sweater, wool peacoat, etc. Except in the wettest weather, in which case a slicker or waterproof cape was worn, the duffle coat was the top layer. They were rough, crude garments cheaply produced in mass quantities. They only became popular when in the 1950s they hit the surplus markets in great numbers and were a super-cheap outerwear option for Brits who were struggling in the post-war period (they did not have the prosperous 1950s that the United States & Canada enjoyed). More recently, as a fasion item, they have become "luxurious" but that's a revision of the original.

So wear your new duffle over your sweater and tweed sport coat on the coldest days. Wear a heavy, long schoolboy scarf around your neck and use the hood if necessary. But don't expect it to be a fancy outerwear option to replace a nice overcoat or whatever.

DocD


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## Ron_A (Jun 5, 2007)

eagle2250 said:


> Indeed, it was a dark and stormy evening on which I accepted a UPS delivery from STP. Literally trembling with anticipation, I carefully opened the box containing what I expected was a "classic" Gloverall Duffel coat...the "Original", designed to protect British sailors from the wind driven rain and freezing temperatures of the North Atlantic and touted to retail for prices approaching $600! Can you imagine my shock and disappointment at finding my 'Gloverall Original' was essentially a collection of pattern cut wool scraps, well and nicely stitched together but, with absolutely no insulating material or lining to be found in the finished product. The windflap on the coat is secured by nothing but the horn and leather toggle assemblies, allowing prominent gaps in the coats ability to protect the wearer from the ravages of the elements and causing one to reasonably question, "where's the freaken zipper!" Those Royal Navy sailors of old, must have had antifreeze running in their veins, if this is the coat that kept them warm.
> 
> However, I paid $134 for the coat and...it is built like a $134 coat! So I guess I can't complain too loudly. I do have a couple of questions for those members of the forum, having prior experience with the Gloverall Duffel coat: Are they generally made with no lining or insulating material? Does Gloverall market their coats with varying levels of fit and finish as retail options? Is this beast as warm as it is advertised to be? Did STP just sell me a Yugo?
> 
> Thanks in advance for your feedback, Eagle


Very interesting post, Eagle, as I received my "John Partridge" navy duffel coat from STP yesterday and -- upon opening the package -- had a very similar reaction. The coat is unlined (no plaid lining), which is fine as I undoubtedly will layer it. However, it seems to be pretty cheaply constructed, and does not have a zipper. It also does not even have a label identifying the manufacturer (in this case, some research led me to believe that John Partridge was a venerable English brand), and looks to be a fairly generic duffel coat that certainly would not retail for close to what STP claimed. I guess that I can't complain too loudly, given the price, but it was not exactly what I was expecting. The good news is that it fits me quite well (not an easy task to accomplish), so I probably will hang onto it, and layer it over sweaters, etc., in cold weather as it does not look particularly warm.

I also would add that the quality of this coat is nothing like a BB duffel coat that I purchased about 12 years ago, and still have (though it no longer fits). Then again, the BB coat probably would now retail for about $600.


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## Natural Sole Brother (May 29, 2007)

To expect any degree of luxury with the classic duffle is a mistake and mention of a zipper is herecy. The military issue coat was unlined and unzippable in order that it could be easily slipped off in the event of falling into the drink while wearing one: a sodden duffle coat would act as an anchor dragging the unfortunate wearer to the ocean floor.

For those who might be interested Silverman's in London (silvermans.co.uk) still have a very limited number of military issue duffles. I would have to say these are absolutely outstanding garments, a world away from the reproductions made for the civillian market. The khaki wool is incredibly thick and stiff. When the coat was brought out to show me the sales assistant stood it up on the counter where it sat independently.

I think the only sizes they have left are a 'size 2', which would fit anyone over six feet tall and with a chest measurement of over 44". As mentioned above they were designed to be worn over many layers, and as such are vast.


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## paper clip (May 15, 2006)

Great thread. I appreciate all of this info as I was close to pulling the trigger on one of these duffels. I'd rather have a lined coat with a non-traditional zipper under the storm flap and toggles. Thanks for saving me the time and bother.


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## Speas (Mar 11, 2004)

I have a Gloverall with no lining or zipper (admittedly with a higher wool % than your model but the coat should be the same) . I dont quite understand the concerns. The wool itself is the insulator - not sure why there should be poly filling in a wool coat - look at the Filsons for example. Also the lack of lining doesnt make it bad if it is finished well - mine is (finished/taped edges). A lining can be used to hide sins. I dont think you want a slippery bemberg lining in this coat. Regarding the toggles, if you dont fasten them but closed the coat with a zipper wouldnt that look foolish? If you're going to close the toggles then the zipper would be belt and suspenders and extra work. Anyway if the coat is sized to your chest you wont have gapping - look at nearly all dress coats. Wear the coat enjoying what it is.


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## Ron_A (Jun 5, 2007)

Speas said:


> I have a Gloverall with no lining or zipper (admittedly with a higher wool % than your model but the coat should be the same) . I dont quite understand the concerns. The wool itself is the insulator - not sure why there should be poly filling in a wool coat - look at the Filsons for example. Also the lack of lining doesnt make it bad if it is finished well - mine is (finished/taped edges). A lining can be used to hide sins. I dont think you want a slippery bemberg lining in this coat. Regarding the toggles, if you dont fasten them but closed the coat with a zipper wouldnt that look foolish? If you're going to close the toggles then the zipper would be belt and suspenders and extra work. Anyway if the coat is sized to your chest you wont have gapping - look at nearly all dress coats. Wear the coat enjoying what it is.


This thread has taken an interesting direction, and has led me to reconsider some of the concerns that I'd had about the John Partridge (unlined, no-zip) duffel coat. It sounds as though the items that we (Eagle and I) received are, in fact, authentic, classic duffel coats as they have existed since being introduced in the UK. I think that the disconnect, on my end anyway, was that I was expecting something similar to my "luxurious" BB duffel coat or the ones that I have seen from Burberry. As I now understand it, comparing these two coats is really apples and oranges; however, the duffel coats that Eagle and I received are the "real McCoy", so to speak.

At any rate, FWIW, I will enjoy my new duffel coat from STP for what it is, and am fairly confident that it will be reasonably warm when the toggles are fastened (although, for the record, I typically zipped my BB duffel coat while leaving the toggles unfastened -- IMO, it did not look strange).


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## egadfly (Nov 10, 2006)

eagle2250 said:


> I do have a couple of questions for those members of the forum, having prior experience with the Gloverall Duffel coat: Are they generally made with no lining or insulating material? Does Gloverall market their coats with varying levels of fit and finish as retail options? Is this beast as warm as it is advertised to be? Did STP just sell me a Yugo?


Eagle, I'm sorry to hear of your disappointment with the coat.

I don't have the STP version, but I can tell you that the "classic" model 512C is unlined, with the interior done in a contrasting plaid wool. It's true that the Gloverall is not a luxury item -- it isn't adjustable in any meaningful way and it lacks such now-standard features as multiple interior pockets, two-way zippers, etc. However, it is remarkably warm and, unlike most things one buys today, it gets better with age.

I think it's been discussed here before that the STP model is of a lesser fabric than the full-price models, though I would have expected the quality of construction to be roughly equal. If you're unhappy with the coat, I would contact STP; I assume they will take it back.

EGF


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## Micawber (Nov 9, 2006)

Ah duffle coats, very fond memories of the ones that I had when everything was still in black and white. The surplus stores and market stall used to be awash with the things. When I was a kid my mother used to thread a length of wool from one woolly mitten up the sleeve of my duffle, across the back and down to the mitt on the other sleeve.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Ron_A said:


> ...At any rate, FWIW, I will enjoy my new duffel coat from STP for what it is, and am fairly confident that it will be reasonably warm when the toggles are fastened (although, for the record, I typically zipped my BB duffel coat while leaving the toggles unfastened -- IMO, it did not look strange).


My past experience is similiar to Ron_A's. Years ago I purchased a duffel design coat produced and sold by Woolrich Woolen Mills. It was insulated and lined and did have a zipper, in addition to the horn and toggle fasteners. While I was suprised to see the Gloverall come out of the box, as described in the OP, I do like the fact the present design features are consistent with the original design. I am a sucker for authenticity...remember I'm one of a few forumites choosing to purchase the Aurlander Cabin Moccasins (AKA: The mother of all Weejuns) and indeed, I will be keeping the Gloverall duffel. It does fit nicely and with adequate layering (as has been suggested by several forumites), should prove quite comfortable on those cold winter outings. However, while the $134 I paid for this coat was reasonable, if these coats are actually retailed at close to $600, that is an authentic example of highway robbery!

Thanks to all for the feedback so far and please, keep it coming!


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## Ron_A (Jun 5, 2007)

eagle2250 said:


> However, while the $134 I paid for this coat was reasonable, if these coats are actually retailed at close to $600, that is an authentic example of highway robbery!


I also like the fact that these Gloverall and John Partridge coats are authentic -- albeit a bit rustic. However, I am in solid agreement that, if the Gloverall, and, most certainly, the John Partridge versions that STP are selling are priced anywhere near $500-$600, that is an authentic rip-off.

If I were going to pay $600 for a duffel coat, I would expect to receive (and would receive) something like this un-authentic model from BB.

https://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCa...ction_Id=571&Product_Id=1088426&Parent_Id=569


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## Joe Tradly (Jan 21, 2006)

Ron_A said:


> If I were going to pay $600 for a duffel coat, I would expect to receive (and would receive) something like this un-authentic model from BB.
> 
> https://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCa...ction_Id=571&Product_Id=1088426&Parent_Id=569


Or Press's .

I struggle on a near regular basis about the navy vs. camel conundrum. I've long adored my Navy-issue pea coat as a casual coat. Now that it is too small, I want to replace it with a duffel coat in navy. But I'm drawn to the camel color as the traditional, original color for the coat...

JB


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Ron_A said:


> If I were going to pay $600 for a duffel coat, I would expect to receive (and would receive) something like this un-authentic model from BB.
> 
> https://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCa...ction_Id=571&Product_Id=1088426&Parent_Id=569


This past Spring, BB had their duffel coat on sale for (I believe) $299. It is indeed quite a nice coat but, I am attracted to the history tied to the Gloverall coat.


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## Thom Browne's Schooldays (Jul 29, 2007)

Is this just STP Gloveralls?

I've never seen an unlined Duffle, and all the (civilian issue) one's I've worn seemed to be warm ando f good quality.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Remember this one, Harris?
*TRAD HOUSE RAKUTEN*!!!
_<<insert animated-dancing-silly-Japanese-anime-giant-robot-rabbit-character here>>_

This Gloverall, which I think was the #512 (now discontinued), is 100% authentic in every detail except it's not made of old smelly-when-wet industrial-grade wool.

Gloverall, of course, will sell you the toggles and jute ropes separately, so you can get them sewn onto your new duffle coat (if you don't like the leather and horn). Check out their website.

DocD


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## Joe Tradly (Jan 21, 2006)

Speaking of duffels, check out this [wowee wow wow]:


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Joe Tradly said:


> Speaking of duffels, check out this [wowee wow wow]:


Love the design concept a Tartan Gloverall but, those thin spots shown in the fifth picture (on the ebay listing) are moth damage. Too bad because that is a great looking coat!


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