# How puffy should my shirt be when tucked in properly?



## Casablanca (Apr 16, 2007)

When my shirt looks too baggy I hate the look and I think it looks really unprofessional (I also have a smaller physique so I have a particularly hard time with this if I'm wearing off-the-rack shirts without alterations) but I think I obsess over this too much because in my mind the shirt's supposed to look like the shirts models wear in adds. I doubt that most guys would be able to keep their shirts looking like this in real life unless they plan on not sitting down all evening, and in most of the films I see, the actors' shirts don't look like this so I probably need to strike a balance:




If some of you gents could post a few pics of men with their shirt tucked in properly this would give me a look to shoot for and I'd appreciate it.


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## Mr. Chatterbox (May 1, 2005)

*An Obligatory American Television Reference*

:devil:Beware The Puffy Shirt...especially if you are on morning television. Just ask Mr Seinfeld. :devil:


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

As puffy as ya' wanna be!

The '70's retread fashions that now dominate the cut of mass market men's apparel and that is depicted in your photo offer only snug clothing. But I think a man of any phsique looks both better and more elegant in a shirt that blouses a bit.

Your choice, do you want to look good or fashionable?


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## Cary Grant (Sep 11, 2008)

It's not a matter of tucking, it's a matter of how slim-cut your shirt is. If you don't like baggy shirts, by slimmer cuts, higher scyes, etc..

Additionally- don't obsess over models. Often their clothing is trimmed even further or pinned back for the sake of the shot.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Having a shirt that snug would be uncomfortable and impractical. Get a slim fit, sure, but not constricting.

Flanderian: You would walk to a different tune if you ever saw me in a BB traditional fit shirt. The look is comical at best. I _have_ to get slim fit clothing. Even then the shirts from RL, BB, and yes even Thom Browne are rather blousey.


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## signal (Dec 6, 2008)

I have been in your same boat. Then I discovered "slim fit". Brooks Brothers has an excellent slim fit shirt. I buy those now.

Many other manufacturers have slim fit as well. Generally the arm hole is smaller, and the width of the shirt is smaller, it can be cut different as well.

You can also take your shirts to a tailor, and they can cut it down a bit. Mine charges $16 for this. I can't stand to wear a shirt that is not fitted right after discovering how much better slim fit is for me.


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## medwards (Feb 6, 2005)

There are literally hundreds of pages on this forum discussing slim-fitting shirts. Here's just the most recent:

https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?t=89394

In essence, there are three basic alternatives. 1. Explore those ready-to-wear shirtmakers who produce shirts that are cut more trimly than others. The search function will provide you with lots of examples. Just search "slim fit shirt." 2. You can have a tailor alter a shirt that appears too full, removing some of the excess fabric. Or 3. You can go the bespoke/made-to-measure route wherein you can select precisely how closely cut you would like the body of the shirt to be.


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## ctt (Dec 24, 2008)

signal said:


> I have been in your same boat. Then I discovered "slim fit". Brooks Brothers has an excellent slim fit shirt. I buy those now.
> 
> I can't stand to wear a shirt that is not fitted right after discovering how much better slim fit is for me.


Same here, I bought a couple of the tailored fit shirts from JAB and after wearing them a few times I gave all my normal cut shirts to my dad. I bought several from BB to see how I like their slim fit shirts. The JAB shirts were about $35 and are a huge step up from what I used to wear in terms of cloth and fit.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

Jovan said:


> Flanderian: You would walk to a different tune if you ever saw me in a BB traditional fit shirt.


Hmmm . . . .

There are degrees of blousey. Sometimes an unshrunk BB shirt can make even the rotund appear as if they're wearing a parachute. :icon_smile_big:


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## deanayer (Mar 30, 2008)

I have to say I hate the fact that a lot of shirts just seem to flair continuously outward from the armpits to the end of the shirt tails. I see this with BB shirts quite often. My problem is that while I am 5'10" I have a 33 inseam and am I bit short in the torso relative to my neck size and arm length so I end up tucking in a greater amount of the shirt than most and so I have to make sure that a shirt pocket doesn't look "centered" between my shoulder and belt. This is the kind of build that doesn't tolerate ever expanding shirts well because if it is untucked over time it balloons and it also translates into unintentional "pleating" around my waist as I try to jam an expanse of shirt that is maybe 46" into a 36" waist (I wear a 42R suit). I feel your pain.


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## medwards (Feb 6, 2005)

*There's always the Military Tuck*

While bespoke, made-to-measure, alterations, or just slim-cut shirts are obvious solutions, there is another, even simpler approach that has been in the soldier's arsenal for many, many years. That iis the "military tuck," which members of the armed forces have long used to reduce the blousiness of their shirts and present a clean, trim line. In simplest terms, one tightens the slack in the shirt from both sides, and then tucks in the shirt, leaving it smooth in both front and back. While it would not be my preferred approach, it has withstood the test of time for countless members of the military.


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## Casablanca (Apr 16, 2007)

medwards said:


> There are literally hundreds of pages on this forum discussing slim-fitting shirts. Here's just the most recent:
> 
> https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?t=89394
> 
> In essence, there are three basic alternatives. 1. Explore those ready-to-wear shirtmakers who produce shirts that are cut more trimly than others. The search function will provide you with lots of examples. Just search "slim fit shirt." 2. You can have a tailor alter a shirt that appears too full, removing some of the excess fabric. Or 3. You can go the bespoke/made-to-measure route wherein you can select precisely how closely cut you would like the body of the shirt to be.


One other option I heard about while browsing google is to wear military style shirt braces like these to keep the shirt tucked in, but I think that's a little too much just for casual or even business wear myself. So much for comfort:


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

medwards said:


> While bespoke, made-to-measure, alterations, or just slim-cut shirts are obvious solutions, there is another, even simpler approach that has been in the soldier's arsenal for many, many years. That iis the "military tuck," which members of the armed forces have long used to reduce the blousiness of their shirts and present a clean, trim line. In simplest terms, one tightens the slack in the shirt from both sides, and then tucks in the shirt, leaving it smooth in both front and back. While it would not be my preferred approach, it has withstood the test of time for countless members of the military.


With your pants waist loosened, tuck the tail of your shirt into your trousers. Grasp the excess fabric on each side of the shirt between the thumb and index finger of each hand. Drive your thumb forward, while pulling the outside of the fabric fold back with your index finger. Smooth the fold, this creates on each side, into your trousers and secure the waist of same, holding the fold in place and adding a nicely form fitted appearance to your shirt!


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## Mannix (Nov 24, 2008)

I like shirts so tight you could strike a match off of them. Blousey shirts are a pet peeve of mine.


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## JerseyJohn (Oct 26, 2007)

> How puffy should my shirt be when tucked in properly?


Puffy enough so that when you sit, your belly isn't showing between the buttons!


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## BLFancher (Mar 18, 2007)

Be aware that the model in the picture you have posted probably has a mass of material pinned or clamped behind the back to tighten up the fabric for the clean look in the photo. 

Shirts should not be puffy. You need room enough to account for sitting posture and that's about it. More than that and your shirt will look like a tent....or a mushroom cap! Keep in mind that the english style shirt is usually a bit more roomy...though not so much as is common in OTR shirts here in the states. I have a trim, athletic build and I find that even "slim" fits from places like Brooks Brothers can be too blousy. Their "classic" or "luxury" fits are even worse. Its pretty much the same with all makers and I end up having even MTM shirts in slim patterns cut down even more. If you're an "average" guy....you might find slim fitting patterns just the ticket if adjusted to your measurements. I've never put on a regular OTR shirt that didn't look like something meant for a guy more than 50lbs overweight.


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## Orsini (Apr 24, 2007)

JerseyJohn said:


> Puffy enough so that when you sit, your belly isn't showing between the buttons!


How to avoid "the spreads":


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## texquire (Jul 3, 2008)

Don't rely on the models. I've done those type of shots before, and the shirts/suits are always clipped or pinned.

A shirt should allow you to go through your full range of motion with your arms and torso, and not a stitch more. Better yet, get yourself to a custom shirtmaker. But put those model photos out of your head, because those guys can't move their arms.


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## rbstc123 (Jun 13, 2007)

Jovan said:


> I _have_ to get slim fit clothing. Even then the shirts from RL, BB, and yes even Thom Browne are rather blousey.


+1
Me too.


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## rbstc123 (Jun 13, 2007)

eagle2250 said:


> With your pants waist loosened, tuck the tail of your shirt into your trousers. Grasp the excess fabric on each side of the shirt between the thumb and index finger of each hand. Drive your thumb forward, while pulling the outside of the fabric fold back with your index finger. Smooth the fold, this creates on each side, into your trousers and secure the waist of same, holding the fold in place and adding a nicely form fitted appearance to your shirt!


Who is holding up my pants while I do this?:icon_smile:


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^LOL...in my case, it would be my butt!


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Flanderian said:


> Hmmm . . . .
> 
> There are degrees of blousey. Sometimes an unshrunk BB shirt can make even the rotund appear as if they're wearing a parachute. :icon_smile_big:


The BB slim fits are acceptable... they aren't comically large. I wear my trousers at my real waist, so it looks better than a lot of guys.


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## flatline (Dec 22, 2008)

I have to say that I used to go for the "strike a match" fit, but I have come to realize that it is unrealistic - I have never found a shirt that fits that tight and still allows for any real range of motion. Plus, unless you have the physique of Michael Phelps, it will draw unnecessary attention away from your clothes to the body underneath.


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## ctt (Dec 24, 2008)

> I _have_ to get slim fit clothing. Even then the shirts from RL, BB, and yes even Thom Browne are rather blousey.


The JAB tailored fit shirts seem to be more snug around the waist than the BB slim fit shirts. I've only tried on one BB slim fit shirt and two JAB tailored fit shirts, though.


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

Thanks for the tip. The main problem is that a 16.5" shirt is typically built for a man with a 44" chest.


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## Gurdon (Feb 7, 2005)

*I like puffy shirts*

I believe it is a matter of stylistic preference. I'm surprised that no one from the TRAD bunch has chimed in, as the loose tent-like look seems to have its roots in the northeast.

That being said, although I have moved away from the sack look to the more tailored English style, I still retain an affinity for loosely-fitting shirts. Thus Mercer and Sons shirts are my preferred dress shirt to wear with jackets and suits.

To my eye, trim-fit shirts look too much like western wear, or military attire. This is something of a class issue, as it is likewise with other uniformed services, such as police and fire.

Moreover, I actually think the loose fitting look is flattering. It emphasizes the bulk of the upper torso, or, in my case hides it somewhat. In any event it gives one a somewhat athletic, swashbuckling appearance like that of Douglas Fairbanks, Sr., or Erroll Flynn. I think puffy shirts look particularly good on a slim person.

Regards,
Gurdon


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## Rich (Jul 10, 2005)

Of course, traditionally, only the collars and cuffs of shirts were meant to be seen - which is why dress shirts are sold by collar and sleeve sizes, and not chest/waist sizes.
The generous cut about the middle was for comfort only.


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## Gurdon (Feb 7, 2005)

Rich said:


> Of course, traditionally, only the collars and cuffs of shirts were meant to be seen - which is why dress shirts are sold by collar and sleeve sizes, and not chest/waist sizes.
> The generous cut about the middle was for comfort only.


Rich got the important part, which I forgot to mention. Loosely fitting shirts are comfortable.
Regards,
Gurdon


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## David Reeves (Dec 19, 2008)

medwards said:


> While bespoke, made-to-measure, alterations, or just slim-cut shirts are obvious solutions, there is another, even simpler approach that has been in the soldier's arsenal for many, many years. That iis the "military tuck," which members of the armed forces have long used to reduce the blousiness of their shirts and present a clean, trim line. In simplest terms, one tightens the slack in the shirt from both sides, and then tucks in the shirt, leaving it smooth in both front and back. While it would not be my preferred approach, it has withstood the test of time for countless members of the military.


That's interesting has anyone got any pictures? Imagine that as a design with the tuck stitched in? I have always liked military detailing.


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## Blueboy1938 (Aug 17, 2008)

*Your choice.*

Naturally, slim-cut shirts are one way to go. BB has that "Create Your Shirt" option, too. But there are also measures you can take short of having the waist and/or body slimmed by a tailor.

I just smooth down the front panels and work the rest around to the center of the back. It presents a neat front, while leaving the material to move with you when changing positions, sitting, and so forth.

There is a neat trick I learnt in the military of pulling the front taut and pushing the excess from the back behind the side seams with your thumbs. A little tricky, but it can be neat. Essentially you are doing with your thumbs what the tailor would do with scissors.


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## Bog (May 13, 2007)

To obtain a shirt tight in the chest and still allow the arms to move with ease, one must have underarm gussets put in.


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## Scrumhalf (Dec 20, 2007)

David Reeves said:


> That's interesting has anyone got any pictures? Imagine that as a design with the tuck stitched in? I have always liked military detailing.


https://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&VideoID=1313494

Not the greatest of results (the video poster could have at least ironed his shirt before his demo) but you will get the idea.


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## Diggy18 (Apr 11, 2008)

Bogdanoff said:


> To obtain a shirt tight in the chest and still allow the arms to move with ease, one must have underarm gussets put in.


Can you explain that a little? That picture looks like the gusset down at the very bottom of the side seam. What is an underarm gusset? Or were you just kidding?

Hey isn't it possible to have a shirt tailored so that, at the waist, it is very snug, but it flairs out wider as it goes up over the belly and chest and also as it goes down around the hips? That way it would look very trim where it tucks into the pants and you wouldn't have hardly any puffing, no?


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## ChicagoMediaMan-27 (Feb 23, 2008)

Most of my dress shirts are close to what the picture that the OP posted. Mine have a little bit more room at the waist, but are cut similar in the chest, shoulders, and arms. Granted, my job doesn't require me to move around a bunch, but I don't have a problem doing so when I need to.


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## Bog (May 13, 2007)

> What is an underarm gusset?
> 
> In most garments with sleeves, the underarm is a point where three seams meet: the body seam, the sleeve seam, and the sleeve-to-body seam. This places stress on that point, making it more susceptible to wear. Gansey knitters of old recognized this fact and developed triangular or diamond-shaped underarm gussets to relieve the stress point and to allow greater arm movement.


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## Diggy18 (Apr 11, 2008)

ChicagoMediaMan-27 said:


> Most of my dress shirts are close to what the picture that the OP posted. Mine have a little bit more room at the waist, but are cut similar in the chest, shoulders, and arms. Granted, my job doesn't require me to move around a bunch, but I don't have a problem doing so when I need to.


There are a couple guys in my office who wear shirts that are nearly that tight, too. Personally, I don't like the look. But that's just personal aesthetic taste.

Do you seriously have dress shirts with an underarm gusset?


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## Jovan (Mar 7, 2006)

I can't see the point to underarm gussets besides shooting. I'd be afraid of lifting my arm and getting weird looks.


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