# Sneakers!



## Billax (Sep 26, 2011)

I first started noticing clothes as a HS Senior in 1958, when two of my college-attending cousins came home for family Thanksgiving. While one cousin went to Northwestern and the other to Cornell, they showed up for Thanksgiving in near-identical outfits: OCBD, Shetland sweaters (one a crew & the other a V neck), khakis, Wigwam socks and Bass Weejuns. I deduced a uniform for college attire. Since I was in the middle of college applications myself, I asked my folks for Christmas presents of "clothing the cousins wore."

Once in college, I had the great good fortune to work in a Men's clothing store that catered to the "Natural Shoulder" crowd. I learned more about men's clothing from the proprietor of that store than I have learned since. I considered him a great mentor. He'd open up OCBDs from Sero, Gant, and Troy Guild and take me through the - often minute - differences among them. Stuck with me. It was his contention that "Natural" meant more than shoulders. Natural shoulders, natural fibers, natural (vegetal and insect) dyes all went together, according to my boss. I lapped up every distinction he threw at me. To this day, he remains the best teacher I've ever encountered.

In March of this year, my youngest son was accepted to his dream school - Yale. His Christmas presents reprised the requests I made to my parents more than 50 years ago. I hope the my gifts to the boy "take." But, turning on the "way back machine," here's what was on my mind 54 years ago.

The choices I made:
When I started getting interested in clothes in late 1958, I had to select shoes, socks, pants, shirts, sweaters, ties, sport coats, suits and outerwear in preparation for heading off to college in the Fall of 1959. Based on recollection, pictures from my photo albums from the time, and limited by a faulty memory, I propose to go through my preferences from 1958-1964 in every category of apparel. Here were the contenders in each category, from the bottom up:

*Sneakers:*
All white was the only way to go in my High School and throughout my college days (1959-1964).

Converse All Stars. The company was founded in 1908 and has been a leading factor in plimsolls ever since. Their Converse Chuck Taylor All Stars and Jack Purcell tennies were legendary sport shoes even then. They soared in popularity in the late 1950s and '60s, but never rivaled Sperry or Keds. Here's the current Converse All-Star model:









Keds Champions. US Rubber, now Uniroyal, created its iconic shoe, "The Champion" in 1916. Popularly known as the "sneaker," Keds created a new category of footwear - a shoe so quiet you could sneak up on people! It's been embedded in popular culture ever since. In four more years, the Champion will have been on the market for 100 years! Here's the current "Champion Original" model:










Sperry Sneaker Topsiders.
Sperry started making sneakers in 1935. They continue making them to this day. They became quite popular and their ubiquitous blue stripe around the top of the sole made them easily identifiable. In my circles, Sperry's rivaled Keds for "most sought after" sneaker.










Van's
Van's didn't come along until 1966, long after I'd made my decision to go with Keds. They were a part of the skate board phenomenon, but they were - and are - very popular. The company was founded in Anaheim, California and has always had a slightly "bad boy" vibe to me. I'll admit that it appealed for that reason, but it was too late for me. I was a Keds guy. Here's the current version of their original sneaker, the Authentic:










Which did I choose and why?
In late 1958, sneakers were just starting to be cool in my High School. I went to the department store and saw the Converse, Sperry and Keds sneakers. I chose the Keds Champions because:
• they had a slightly thinner sole, they were entirely white (no stripe)
• the eyelet layout looked more like a regular shoe than Converse. All in, they were more modest and minimalist. As one who finds the foot the least endearing appendage, I'm not inclined to dramatize it. For that reason, Keds were an easy choice.

Which sneaker became more popular? 
In my circles, Keds by a smidge over Sperrys and by a mile over Converse! Vans wasn't in business then. Still saw a fair number of Converse All Stars, but Keds simpler, slimmer, less decorated look was what the market wanted. These were among the first Unisex apparel categories. They were just as popular with girls as they were with guys. If someone told me I couldn't wear Keds, I'd be OK with Sperrys. If I could only buy Converse sneakers, well, I'd give up sneakers entirely.

If I had it all to do over again, would I change?
Nope. Still wear Keds Champions - fifty four years later - probably once every ten days - more often in the Summer, less frequently in the cooler months.

Next week: Loafers


----------



## Ensiferous (Mar 5, 2012)

Thanks for the great write-up, Billax!

Your perspective & memories are valued here.


----------



## Balfour (Mar 23, 2012)

I will follow your series with great interest: I admire the "trad" look immensely - especially as presented in your posts in WAYWT, but could not carry it off as an Englishman in England. 

Congratulations on your son's admission to Yale.


----------



## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

A pleasant stroll down memory lane, Bill. When I got to high school, I switched from Keds to Chucks, white hightops. It was felt that the double canvas uppers offered more "support" to the serious athlete, and, besides, it was what the coolest upperclassmen wore. When my b-ball career (as a varsity benchwarmer) came to an end, I switched to the lowtops.


----------



## Billax (Sep 26, 2011)

The Rambler said:


> A pleasant stroll down memory lane, Bill. When I got to high school, I switched from Keds to Chucks, white hightops. It was felt that the double canvas uppers offered more "support" to the serious athlete, and, besides, it was what the coolest upperclassmen wore. When my b-ball career (as a varsity benchwarmer) came to an end, I switched to the lowtops.


My closest friend from back then, swore by his Chuck Taylor All Star high tops. He also poo-pooed my Keds as sissy shoes. I responded that if he were confident in his own manhood he wouldn't have to plod along in those aircraft carriers. Back and forth, back and forth! Good times, eh, Rambler?


----------



## Topsider (Jul 9, 2005)

Nicely done! 

I graduated from high school a few years after you (1983), and my sneaker of choice was the then-popular Tretorn Nylite. I still wear them.

Unfortunately, the shoes Tretorn offers currently are but a shadow of their former selves. The Tretorn brand died sometime in the '90's and was revived by Puma in 2001.

https://www.wastechina.com/puma/puma_tretorn_gullwing_classic_sneaker/

I also wear the Sperrys.


----------



## FLMike (Sep 17, 2008)

Billax, let me first say that I really admire your sense of style and think you are always very well put together in your WAYW posts. However, I just can't abide the Keds. Since you've been wearing them for over a half-century, I realize I'm not going to persuade you otherwise, but when I was growing up they were unequivocally a girls shoe. I agree about the unisex nature of the others you mention....in fact, when it comes to casual sneakers (as opposed to athletic ones), I've owned the Sperrys, Chucks, Tretorns, and one not mentioned, K-Swiss, over the last 25 years or so. The Keds, though, never occurred to me as a shoe that a (straight) man could get away with. I know you're not seeking my approval, but I feel like the "Champions" are the only flaw in an otherwise championship worthy trad wardrobe! :smile:


----------



## David J. Cooper (Apr 26, 2010)

Really? I wore my last pair of Chucks in 1972. After that it was Adidas Superstars. I never had Tretorns although many of the senior tennis players I played against in the late 70s seemed to love them. This seems like nostalgia gone very wrong.


----------



## jkidd41011 (Jan 20, 2010)

Back in college I was a fan of the plain white K-Swiss leather. I was able to recently come across a pair of Tretorn leather with the blue gullwing. I'll second Topsider they aren't as well made as they were (what is than again)....but they bring back memories.

Billax...congrats on your son attending Yale. Mine wants to go to Cornell....he's 7 1/2.


----------



## Billax (Sep 26, 2011)

Thanks for your post, FLCracka! Maybe its geography, maybe its age difference, maybe, maybe .... We're all entitled to our own opinions and I'm glad to hear yours! The first pair of sneakers (as opposed to Gym shoes) I ever saw was in the summer of 1958. Guy was wearing white Keds, white Wigwam 625s, Levi wheat jeans and a blue OCBD. Liked the look from the get-go. 

As they say, that's what makes markets.


----------



## Walter Denton (Sep 11, 2011)

"Guy was wearing white Keds, white Wigwam 625s, Levi wheat jeans and a blue OCBD. Liked the look from the get-go."

Yes, I pretty much wore that outfit for about 10 years from 1958-1968.

Wonderful report on sneakers, Billax. Brings back some great memories. Although I didn't start college until 1965 I started wearing sneakers around 1958 also. I agree that Keds were the cool sneaker to wear back then. I only wore Keds Champions until I stopped wearing sneakers in the late 60's.

I look forward to your future reports.


----------



## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

re Tretorns (older version): most comfortable sneaker ever. I went through the toe in about 3 weeks.


----------



## Topsider (Jul 9, 2005)

An interesting related link: https://www.squidoo.com/Keds-Shoes


----------



## godan (Feb 10, 2010)

Billax said:


> Thanks for your post, FLCracka! Maybe its geography, maybe its age difference, maybe, maybe .... We're all entitled to our own opinions and I'm glad to hear yours! The first pair of sneakers (as opposed to Gym shoes) I ever saw was in the summer of 1958. Guy was wearing white Keds, white Wigwam 625s, Levi wheat jeans and a blue OCBD. Liked the look from the get-go.
> 
> As they say, that's what makes markets.


Geography, indeed! I am interested in your use of the term "wheat jeans," which I have encountered only in the Rocky Mountain area and thought was not known elsewhere. Could you post where in the country you found it used? Thanks - and also for your interesting thread.


----------



## FLMike (Sep 17, 2008)

Fraser - I agree completely. I was born in 1969.


----------



## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

I am spellbound. What a wonderful idea for a thread and so perfectly executed. I am anxiously awaiting the next evolution addressing loafers!

PS: As for sneakers worn back in the day, my most frequently chosen poison (of those mentioned) were the Converse All Stars. LOL, sixty years later, when motivated by nostalgia to try todays offerings by converse, I can't believe I wore those uncomfortable beasts!


----------



## C. Sharp (Dec 18, 2008)

A veteran retired shopkeeper I know told me that he had a good seven year run or so starting in the early 60's selling wheat jeans and other jeans to Cornell students in Ithaca New York.



godan said:


> Geography, indeed! I am interested in your use of the term "wheat jeans," which I have encountered only in the Rocky Mountain area and thought was not known elsewhere. Could you post where in the country you found it used? Thanks - and also for your interesting thread.


----------



## C. Sharp (Dec 18, 2008)

Billax

Great post. I have no doubt that Keds were big and I have an feeling that they will once again regain some market share and some of the old cache. 


This thread shows things change over time and even people who are roughly contemporaries can have different impressions. I have never thought of Keds as girls shoes but I do associate them with children, maybe the cartoon print advertisements maybe because canvas sneakers were the sneaker of my childhood. I remember in the early 80's hearing a radio ad for a quirky sneaker company with a name no one could pronounce called Nike. The rest is history and the canvas shoe became an endangered species. Of the sneakers mentioned I remember the Sperry CVO holding a high price among the traditional minded college students 1986-90. Tretorn had fallen, but was a secret vice among those in the know. I also remember Jack Purcell's trying to make inroads again in the 90's with advertising that featured James Dean ect.


----------



## Walter Denton (Sep 11, 2011)

godan said:


> Geography, indeed! I am interested in your use of the term "wheat jeans," which I have encountered only in the Rocky Mountain area and thought was not known elsewhere. Could you post where in the country you found it used? Thanks - and also for your interesting thread.


What we called wheat jeans were very popular in suburban New York from the late 50's until the psychedelic era of the late 60's. In college, I wore wheat jeans more often than khakis. I don't recall owning a pair of blue jeans until about 1968 when I was a senior in college.


----------



## MikeF (Feb 26, 2010)

I'm suprised that no one has mentioned the Nike All-Court, they were pretty much ubiquitous during the late 70s through the mid 80s among tennis players. They were comforable and durable, much more so than the Tretorns. i would still be wearing them today if they were still made, especially since I started playing tennis again. Also, it is leather, but I'm suprised that no one has mentioned the Adidas Stan Smith. I keep at least one pair at all times. They are the best casual wear shoe ever in my judgement.


----------



## FJW (Jan 25, 2012)

Graduated HS in 1970 and black low Chuck Taylor's where the sneakers of the basketball team. White Chuck's for all other occasions.

We (my parents) could buy 2nds for about $8.00 from Two Guys From Harrison Stores, a discount chain store in NJ. I think the first quality ones were about $12.00


----------



## Ensiferous (Mar 5, 2012)

When I was in private school in the late 60s and 70s, the sneakers those in-the-know all wanted were the Adidas Stan Smith and the Nike Red Swoosh in white leather. We wore them to death, far past when any amount of barge rubber cement could hold them together. Of course, this was when we were off-field and weren't wearing our school shoes or some smelly boat shoes.

If you will permit me to take a slight detour: Socccer cleats!

I obsessed about mine, as did most of the guys I played with. I loved the Adidas Valencia. That "boot" as my coach would call them was as close to unprotected sex with the ball as one could get, Pure feel and control. I tried the Puma King, but it didn't fit me as well. The Adidas Copa Mundial was a dream to play in, and I wish I could remember some of the other "boots" of the day....


----------



## zzdocxx (Sep 26, 2011)

Great thread, thanks Mr. Billax!


----------



## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

My son insisted on the Copa - nothing else would do.


----------



## Ensiferous (Mar 5, 2012)

Billax, I Hope I am not diverting the intent of your excellent topic, but you have sent me down a slightly different, but parellel memory lane with this discussion.

I was inspired, for the first time in quite a few years, to search out some images of my old sports footwear and compiled the following. I wore them all, the Adidas Valencia & Copa Mundial, the Puma King, and whatever that Nike cleat was called.

I am having flashbacks of drills, sprints, and the adrenaline of the kick-off of the game.


----------



## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

The Copa Mundial is still the best soccer boot out there. No gimmicks, no funny colors, just traditional styling and rock solid construction.


----------



## Anon 18th Cent. (Oct 27, 2008)

In my day, Jack Purcells were the good tennis sneakers until Rod Lavers and Stan Smiths showed up. These days, for non-technical use I wear Pantafolo d'Oro sneakers from Italy. Best in the world I say.


----------



## oxford cloth button down (Jan 1, 2012)

I am currently in the market for some canvas sneakers. I wonder what I will end up with. Probably whatever is on sale at the time.

Billax - Thanks for taking the time to write this up, I thoroughly enjoyed it. This post along with your BB, Press, and LE OCBD summary reply and consistently wonderful outfit pictures always leave me wanting more.


----------



## hookem12387 (Dec 29, 2009)

OCBD, J Crew has the Billy Reid x K Swiss cancas shoes on sale for $48 right now. They look pretty nice, IMO, I just ordered a natural pair to take some beatings off my cvo's. They're in the sale section and the code is OURTREAT for the extra 40% off. Put This On posted about them today, though, so you may want to do it sooner than later, if you like them.


----------



## Pink and Green (Jul 22, 2009)

I wear the Tretorns, but they don't seem very good. I may have to try the Sperrys.


----------



## hardline_42 (Jan 20, 2010)

Seems like this is a well-timed post for many of us. I thought I had my white-canvas-shoe base covered with my Jack Purcells, but they are hands-down one of the most uncomfortable pair of shoes I've ever worn. Right now I'm between the Keds Champion, the Pro-Keds Royal CVO and the classic Sperry Striper CVO. I'm leaning towards the Sperry.


----------



## PryorD (Aug 7, 2011)

I was a pre-schooler in 1958, but I certainly remember Keds--which got me thinking of a commercial that ran on TV back in the day, and sure enough, YouTube has it: 



I also remember PF Flyers, although I preferred Keds.


----------



## filfoster (Aug 23, 2011)

FJW said:


> Graduated HS in 1970 and black low Chuck Taylor's where the sneakers of the basketball team. White Chuck's for all other occasions.


 Williamsburg (OH) High School, class of '71. 
Black low cut Chuck's have been my 'go-to' shoes with summer shorts and T-shirts and jeans year round, for many years. My daughters, 22 and 25 think they are the only 'cool' thing about me.


----------



## P Hudson (Jul 19, 2008)

My dad played a lot of basketball in the 1950s and 60s, and was the epitome of Yankee frugality. He had two pair of court shoes: the names on them were Chuck Taylor and Joe Lapchick. Don't know if Joe Lapchick shoes are still around. 
Lapchick was a star center in pro ball during the 20s and 30s, and then went on to coach the Knicks and St Johns. He lived from 1900 to 1970.


----------



## The Rambler (Feb 18, 2010)

This thread happened at just the right time for me, in search of a new pair of all-purpose sneakers. Decided that nosalgia shoes, Chucks, Keds, PF Flyers, and their ilk are not only affected-looking (I'm 65) but uncomfortable; that Jack Purcells were too poorly made anymore, and also uncomfortable; that the contemporary Nike type, while very comfy, have a look I just don't like. However, thanks to a post by the esteemed Mr Ek, which jogged my memory, I found the perfect (for me) all purpose sneak: The Adidas Rod Laver. Couldn't be more pleased.


----------



## Brooksfan (Jan 25, 2005)

Did I miss the Loafers installment?


----------



## Billax (Sep 26, 2011)

Brooksfan said:


> Did I miss the Loafers installment?


Loafers are right here: https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?118862-Loafers!&highlight=Loafers+Billax

Casual jackets are here: https://askandyaboutclothes.com/com...9337-Blouson-jackets&highlight=Bomber+Jackets

The differences between Style, Fashion & Fad can be seen on another forum here: https://thecurriculum.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=17605&hilit=Ross

Similarly, a series of posts on "collegiate cut" trousers can be read at: https://thecurriculum.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=17478&hilit=Uprising

What I believe to be a useful article on collar roll can be viewed at: https://askandyaboutclothes.com/com...plain-and-show-pictures&p=1434980#post1434980

Also, I'll try to find my write-ups on wool crew socks from back in the day. If my memory holds, I'll do two others remembrances - one on sport coats and another on Button down dress and casual shirts from the Golden Age of Ivy.


----------



## David J. Cooper (Apr 26, 2010)

The Rambler said:


> re Tretorns (older version): most comfortable sneaker ever. I went through the toe in about 3 weeks.


Only the right one for me. I was a toe dragger, backhand only. Does anyone remember the Tretorn tennis balls? They didn't need to be compressed so they came in a box.:icon_headagainstwal


----------



## mr7864 (Jul 10, 2013)

Fraser Tartan said:


> I was born in 1968 here in the SF Bay Area and I've always seen those Ked's Champions to be strictly a women's sneaker. Specifically, I associate them with high school cheerleaders, flag girls, etc. I'm thinking it's an age thing and that these shoes developed connotations that weren't there before.


Bingo, man. Same with me in Florida (born '59). My sister & all the girls wore those forever. For me & the boys it was Converse All-Stars (low or high, white or black), followed by the Sperry-style, until later (70's) Adidas stormed in (blue with white stripes SL-72), and then Nikes, etc. I agree, never ever saw those Keds on boys, and we sure weren't wearing them.


----------



## halbydurzell (Aug 19, 2012)

Bought a pair of new Tretorn Nylites this summer and they held up very well. Surprisingly comfortable. And, man, I spent most of my life in Chuck Taylor hi-tops and I'm sure some foot doctor is going to put his kids through school on the money he's going to make correcting my destroyed arches. Very heavy, very uncomfortable, and now ridiculously priced. They do look cool but so does smoking.


----------



## Puig (Sep 17, 2013)

I have to second that the Chucks are terribly uncomfortable, absolutely flat, no arch support whatsoever, my recent pair of Jack Purcells isn't much better. May have to get a pair of Tretorns, they were always one of the most comfortable sneakers I ever had, although I assume they are nowhere as good as they used to be, nothing is.


----------



## Eric W S (Jun 6, 2012)

Puig said:


> I have to second that the Chucks are terribly uncomfortable, absolutely flat, no arch support whatsoever, my recent pair of Jack Purcells isn't much better. May have to get a pair of Tretorns, they were always one of the most comfortable sneakers I ever had, although I assume they are nowhere as good as they used to be, nothing is.


Not terrible for the price. Mine lasted about 2.5 years. Decent value considering what I paid for them on sale. They ended up separating from the sole.


----------

