# Bean Blucher Mocs--the classic model, and today's



## Nathan Detroit (Oct 12, 2005)

Just got a pair of Bean blucher mocs, in brown... waiting for the cactus to come in so that I can compare and decide... There have been a few threads on this shoes, but no clear answer to the question, What was the original, or classic, color? Cactus, or brown? 

And if the shoe has changed, does somebody else make a knockoff that is closer to the classic model of the '50s and '60s? 

Advice appreciated!


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## Foghorn (Feb 2, 2005)

No change & the answer is brown. Now made overseas- just order from Quoddy.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Note that the Quoddy "blucher" looks somewhat different than the Bean version, in particular the 3 eyelets instead of the Bean's 4 eyelets. However, we can expect the Quoddy to be more lovingly constructed, overall.

Anyway, here's some eBay photos of the original Bean blucher mocs:





Not sure, but I think this might be an earlier version (note the boating sole) than the shoes posted above.



One of our members (forgive me, can't remember who) observed that the Bean blucher mocs had white soles at one time, as per the fellow in that "Are You A Preppie?" poster (below).



I have a pair of the new shoes in "cactus": it has a waxy finish, unlike the "brown" which is smooth.

DD


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## Tenacious Tassel (Sep 11, 2006)

*DD --*

god that is a good looking shoe!


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## Tenacious Tassel (Sep 11, 2006)

*I assume...*

this is as close as we would get to those today (which is not half bad):

#501 Blucher, Chromexcel Brown, Camp Sole (Quoddy)


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## StevenRocks (May 24, 2005)

I wish Bean would bring back the styling of a few years ago. I have some from around 2004 that aren't as nice as they could be detail-wise.

I also wish they'd bring back narrow sizes. That alone will preclude me from ever buying a pair of Bean bluchers again.


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## paper clip (May 15, 2006)

Man, those photos bring back memories. Those were all I wore at UMass in the late 80s and early 90s. Nice all leather insole and unlined. I just can't stand all the new shoes with the fabric, supposedly non-microbial insoles. They always get wet and sweaty and stink. The older leather insoles dry quickly and do not hold an odor. The #1 reason I bought and am looking forward to my Quoddys this summer!


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## charphar (Nov 13, 2006)

I got a pair of the Bean blucher mocs in spring 2006, and I was somewhat disappointed, to be honest.

As the ebay pics clearly show, the sole is completely different now, very much like a boat shoe. The biggest difference - and disappointment to me - has been in the quality of the leather on these imported ones. I remember my old Beans (say in the early-mid 1980s) took an awful lot of pounding with hardly any ill effects. The newer ones got scratched and scuffed very quickly.

More than a little disappointed...your mileage may vary...


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## Tenacious Tassel (Sep 11, 2006)

Finally got my lined pair of Quoddy's I posted a pick of above. Won't need em till next fall/winter, but wanted to report they are a fine pair of shoes. 

I wish I could post picks, but to be honest, the picture above is pretty close.

I also finally received in my unlined boat shoes with the yellowish laces -- much better for the spring/summer months.

All in all, I like the lined Quoddy's much better, but there is a time and place for the unlined versions (> 80 degrees). 

I will say, Quoddy has kept me sockless for almost a year now, proud to say!


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## arturostevens (Feb 6, 2007)

I had several pairs of these, and some of the "Camp Mocs" as well. Bean also made a FABULOUS "Ranger Oxford". Bean has new manifestations of these shoes, but not as trad, and with boat shoes and insoles and not the sense of pure leather construction. I think but am not sure some of Beans shoes are still made in New England.


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## joeyzaza (Dec 9, 2005)

I have a pair of Bluchers and Camp Mocs, both from the mid 80s. Great shoes that I occasionally still slip on today. I see the new ones in the catalog today that have what appears to be a green insole for "comfort". It is enough to make you puke. 

I wish they still made these in Maine.


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## arturostevens (Feb 6, 2007)

I wonder if the new ones are still full mocassin construction...you know, with the leather wrapping from the uppers all around the bottoms. They could fake that with an insert insole. And I am still curious if they are made in the US. They still look good....just not as good as the old faithfuls. 

Also, the old Ranger Oxfords were basically a beefy Blucher Moc with a heavy sole. These were fabulous shoes and I wore mine for years sending them back to Bean for resoling. I don't know where those babies are.


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## xcubbies (Jul 31, 2005)

arturostevens said:


> I had several pairs of these, and some of the "Camp Mocs" as well. Bean also made a FABULOUS "Ranger Oxford". Bean has new manifestations of these shoes, but not as trad, and with boat shoes and insoles and not the sense of pure leather construction. I think but am not sure some of Beans shoes are still made in New England.


Those Ranger Oxfords were the most comfortable shoes I've ever owned. I've written several times to Bean's asking that they bring them back. They refer to more recent incarnations, which cannot begin to compare. I've tried Gokey and Russell for substitutes, but, despite the quality, they lack that balance of those old Oxfords. Bean also had a Country brogues, lined, leather soles, a little tooling, that were also fine shoes. Today's Bean is closer to the pre-1980 Bean than is today's Brooks compared to the Brooks of two decades back, but it has slipped significantly.


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## 3button Max (Feb 6, 2006)

*bean*

as i probablymentioned Ihave both the camp and Blucher bean-from an accumulation of Bean certificicates--both are ok-but not what i saw in the catalogs in the 80s--I remember the country brogue mentioned above-
when these shoes die I'll use my own money and buy quoddys.
I dont remember seeing blucher w/ white boat sole-I kind of suspect the poster boy on an earlier thread had some other long defunct source-Im dont remember the bluchers in "sperry burgundy" either but then I didnt see every catalog in the 80s.


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## arturostevens (Feb 6, 2007)

The current bluchers look similar from the uppers, but they have a green insert like orthotic so it is unclear to me whether they are full leather construction with the wrapped leather. Also, there is a brown, not white, boat like sole. So the harder brown sole is out, softer more gripping is in. I am sure it is a very good shoe, just not the classic as before. And the tragedy of no longer making the classic Ranger Oxford is something to take note of. That was a great shoe.


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## arturostevens (Feb 6, 2007)

Maybe a lot of trads could entreat Bean to bring back some classics. I would buy them.


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## andyj (Nov 1, 2006)

arturostevens said:


> I wonder if the new ones are still full mocassin construction...you know, with the leather wrapping from the uppers all around the bottoms. They could fake that with an insert insole. And I am still curious if they are made in the US. They still look good....just not as good as the old faithfuls.


Long time lurker, first time poster.

Anyways, I would assume the Bluchers are the same as the current Camp Mocs, and therefore definitely have the "leather wrapping" moccasin construction.

As for the much maligned synthetic insoles, I really don't understand the controversy. Pull the thing out and throw it in the garbage and everything will be fine. I'm not sure if the older models had a full leather insole, but the current incarnation definitely has half a leather insole (heel and instep only) underneath the synthetic one. Due to the aforementioned moccasin construction, not having an insole in the toe area really isn't a concern, as it is smooth leather anyways.


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

andyj said:


> As for the much maligned synthetic insoles, I really don't understand the controversy. Pull the thing out and throw it in the garbage and everything will be fine.


That's exactly what I've done with mine. It means they have zero padding, just a leather sock liner, but I suppose it's possible to pull that up and glue in a layer of foam padding or something. The price is certainly right for shoes I am just keeping by the door to pull on for quick trips out.

DocD


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## Doctor Damage (Feb 18, 2005)

Here's a pair of old Bean ankle boots, size 11D.
I do not know if they are the authentic "ranger" boots.


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## arturostevens (Feb 6, 2007)

Those are classic blucher ankle boots, but not Rangers. The Rangers had much thicker soles and beefier uppers.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

Doctor Damage said:


> Here's a pair of old Bean ankle boots, size 11D.


Wow, your picture of those ankle boots brought back some great memories...though I don't know if my feet today could handle the characteristic absence of arch support, I remember those shoes offering (or not!).


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## sbdivemaster (Nov 13, 2011)

3button Max said:


> as i probablymentioned Ihave both the camp and Blucher bean-from an accumulation of Bean certificicates--both are ok-but not what i saw in the catalogs in the 80s--I remember the country brogue mentioned above-
> when these shoes die I'll use my own money and buy quoddys.
> I dont remember seeing blucher w/ white boat sole-I kind of suspect the poster boy on an earlier thread had some other long defunct source-Im dont remember the bluchers in "sperry burgundy" either but then I didnt see every catalog in the 80s.


I know I'm reviving a long dead thread, but I know for a fact LLB sold a "blucher" with a white sole. I owned at least 4 pairs - wore them every day from age 12 to 20 or so, even managed to have two of the pairs resoled before blowing out the leather after the soles wore too thin. They were styled just like the blucher, except chocolate brown leather, with a white sole (flat, more like the boat shoe soles); Bean called them something else, but they were available for years. I came across this thread while trying to locate something like them.

Man, I'd kill to get ahold of a pair of those again...


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## Epaminondas (Oct 19, 2009)

sbdivemaster said:


> Man, I'd kill to get ahold of a pair of those again...


They were very cool. Haven't seem them since the early nineties. They were called the Double L Lace-up Moccasins. Pictures:

https://3.bp.blogspot.com/_aUE6s--Cm-...Topsiders8.jpg


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## sbdivemaster (Nov 13, 2011)

Epaminondas said:


> They were very cool. Haven't seem them since the early nineties. They were called the Double L Lace-up Moccasins. Pictures:
> 
> https://3.bp.blogspot.com/_aUE6s--Cm-...Topsiders8.jpg


YES!! The Double L Lace-up! Here's another pic:

(The faces are blacked out to protect the "innocent". heh)










I'm even wearing my Gerry down jacket. I wouldn't mind having that back too...

*EDIT:* I just noticed that I have on a BB striped polo shirt too; they only had those for a little while... Man, I loved those shirts.


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## Patrick06790 (Apr 10, 2005)

here's a Bass /McNairy four-eyelet job with a boat sole


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## sbdivemaster (Nov 13, 2011)

Patrick06790 said:


> here's a Bass /McNairy four-eyelet job with a boat sole


Wow! Flashing back to the 80's... :icon_hailthee:

Those are so close; if they didn't have the brownish welt, I'd probably buy a pair right now. heh

I was considering the LLB Blucher in Cactus and then having the soles replaced with the Casco Bay Boat Moccasin soles. That might even wind up costing less than the Bass/McNairy.

Thanks for the tip, Patrick!


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## sbdivemaster (Nov 13, 2011)

sbdivemaster said:


> *EDIT:* I just noticed that I have on a BB striped polo shirt too; they only had those for a little while... Man, I loved those shirts.


I found a post on here with a of old BB catalogs; on page 9 of PDF, you will find the shirt I was wearing in the pic - it's item "E", navy and maroon stripes; I also had one in navy and green stripes. And, on page 11 of the PDF, item "K", there are some striped GF polo's; I had the yellow/navy and the white/navy.

Man, I was loaded up with the BB stuff when I was a kid... a nice stroll down memory lane. :icon_smile:


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## Epaminondas (Oct 19, 2009)

sbdivemaster said:


> Those are so close; if they didn't have the brownish welt, I'd probably buy a pair right now. heh


Agreed. The welt ruins the shoe.


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## dparm (Nov 18, 2008)

The LL Bean Signature ones are more similar to the "original". They claim to be an homage to the 1930s version. It's not a bad looking shoe though it is not made in the USA anymore.

https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/65129?feat=505906-GN3&productId=1065128


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## sbdivemaster (Nov 13, 2011)

dparm said:


> The LL Bean Signature ones are more similar to the "original". They claim to be an homage to the 1930s version. It's not a bad looking shoe though it is not made in the USA anymore.
> 
> https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/65129?feat=505906-GN3&productId=1065128


Yes, the Signature version has the original blucher sole; I don't get why the current "original" version has the new sole...?

Alas, LL Bean has strayed from American quality goods...

Question: If, for example, the Bluchers were made in the USA with the original sole, how much would people be willing to pay? $100? $120? $150? Just wondering...


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## dparm (Nov 18, 2008)

sbdivemaster, if the Signature ones were made in the USA I would not mind paying $120 (though some have said the leather quality is declining). It's hard for me to be objective considering I haven't tried them on, though.

It's too bad the only B&M stores that carry the Signature line are in Maine...I have two of their stores within 30 minutes of me. At least you get free shipping and easy returns at the store.


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## sbdivemaster (Nov 13, 2011)

dparm said:


> sbdivemaster, if the Signature ones were made in the USA I would not mind paying $120 (though some have said the leather quality is declining). It's hard for me to be objective considering I haven't tried them on, though.
> 
> It's too bad the only B&M stores that carry the Signature line are in Maine...I have two of their stores within 30 minutes of me. At least you get free shipping and easy returns at the store.


I ask because I've got a possible in at LLB, and this is something I want to discuss with them (not just shoes), but wanted to see the interest first. Shhhhh......

Back when I was wearing trad clothes daily, there was only the original Bean store in Freeport; if you didn't live in New England, mail-order was the only way. lol


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## dparm (Nov 18, 2008)

Maybe this is a dumb question, but what's the trad way to wear these? I've always understood them to be the "winter" equivalent of a boat shoe.


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## sbdivemaster (Nov 13, 2011)

dparm said:


> Maybe this is a dumb question, but what's the trad way to wear these? I've always understood them to be the "winter" equivalent of a boat shoe.


As far as I recall, they were worn pretty much all year 'round...

Anyone else want to chime in?


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## tower10 (Nov 10, 2011)

Wear them until the soles are full of holes. Then have them recrafted and repeat.


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## sbdivemaster (Nov 13, 2011)

Just saw a vintage pair of these on feeBay - size 8.5 w/original sole. Fantastic condition!

Search for: "vintage blucher camp"


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## fishertw (Jan 27, 2006)

In case anyone is interested, Rancourt is the "other" maker of Made in Maine camp, or ranger mocs in addition to Quoddy and is also located in Lewiston Maine.. They're a really good re-creation of the original Maine made LL Bean ranger mocs of the 70's. I currently have a pair on order from Kyle Rancourt and he is putting a mini-lug sole on them for me. Rancourt is also the maker of the current "Made in Maine" Eastland shoes. I have a pair of those that I purchased this past spring and they are great shoes. Will likely outlast 4-5 pair of the current Bean off shore made shoes.
Tom


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## Epaminondas (Oct 19, 2009)

fishertw said:


> In case anyone is interested, Rancourt is the "other" maker of Made in Maine camp, or ranger mocs in addition to Quoddy and is also located in Lewiston Maine.. They're a really good re-creation of the original Maine made LL Bean ranger mocs of the 70's. I currently have a pair on order from Kyle Rancourt and he is putting a mini-lug sole on them for me. Rancourt is also the maker of the current "Made in Maine" Eastland shoes. I have a pair of those that I purchased this past spring and they are great shoes. Will likely outlast 4-5 pair of the current Bean off shore made shoes.
> Tom


You have no idea what you're talking about. Simple as that. The original bean Ranger Moc (and the one circa the 70s) had a very thick sole with a defined heel - Quodday has nothing equivalent to the the Bean Ranger moc of the '70s. The rest of your statements reg. Bean "off shore" shoes are nonsense too.


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