# What is "Box Calf"? Why is hand welting good?



## RunningBeagle (Sep 25, 2006)

I know that Vass uses it, and it's why Tramezzas are better than Lobb Paris. What is Box Calf exactly?

Also, what advantages does hand sewing the welt confer?

Ed


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## The Gabba Goul (Feb 11, 2005)

veal???

sorry...no idea...I'd be interested to know the answer too...


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## jamgood (Feb 8, 2006)

British Standards Institution: "A black calfskin leather having a grain pattern of fine box-shaped creases produced by boarding the skins in two directions-head to butt and belly to belly." (Glad to clear that up for you)

(Semi-chrome tanned: Calfskin treated with chromium salts)

Named after Joseph Box, a London boot maker in the 1800s.

Oft generically used to describe fine black calf without much regard to the BSI definition.


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## Brian13 (Aug 9, 2006)

i remember jcusey once stating boxcalf is premium calf leather to use on shoes. 
vass uses boxcalf on all calf leather shoes. 

hand welting has its advantages but would leave it to jcusey as well to discuss that.


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## rider (Jan 8, 2004)

> British Standards Institution: "A black calfskin leather having a grain pattern of fine box-shaped creases produced by boarding the skins in two directions-head to butt and belly to belly."


The only thing I can add to this correct definition, is that Fruedenberg (was the best Box tannery in the world....now gone) always declared that a calf had to have been grazed open and above a certain elevation in either France or Germany.

Also, 'Box' calf, in the classic sense, can only be used in Black calf.....any other color where the same process is used is called 'Willow' calf. Could never learn why, however.



> Also, what advantages does hand sewing the welt confer?


You will get a better insole in both quality and thickness....but it's alot like the difference between hand sawn dovetails and routered dovetails using a jig in cabinetry....it's an investment in the craft and labor of a dying art form.


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## medwards (Feb 6, 2005)

RunningBeagle said:


> I know that Vass uses it...What is Box Calf exactly?


Vass uses the term _box calf_ simply to mean calfskin tanned with chrome salts...which it considers to be the best material for shoe uppers and boot legs.


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## Roger (Feb 18, 2005)

medwards said:


> Vass uses the term _box calf_ simply to mean calfskin tanned with chrome salts...which it considers to be the best material for shoe uppers and boot legs.


Right, Medwards. Just to perhaps add a little more, here's what Vass and Molnar wrote in _Handmade shoes for men _on p. 98 where they devoted a page to box calf:

"Most high-class footwear is made of box calf. This type of calfskin is given heavily grained and smooth finishes."

They then went on to offer up three possible explanations for the origins of the term:

1. It is derived from the emblem of an American leather producer, this emblem showing a calf in a box.

2. It is "based on the fact that the perfectly prepared calfskins were stored and transported in boxes in order to stop them from deteriorating."

3. "...from the London shoemaker Joseph Box, after whom the leather is supposedly named."

Whatever the origins of the term, Vass thinks very highly of box calf about which he said: "...feels soft, but keeps its shape and is highly prized among the different leather varieties. Its grain side has an extraordinarily fine grain with a beautiful pattern. Box calf is about a twenty-fifth of an inch...thick...."


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## iammatt (Sep 17, 2005)

Along the same lines of confusion, in Italian "nappa" means both Napa Leather and tassels like you find on loafers.


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## RunningBeagle (Sep 25, 2006)

rider said:


> You will get a better insole in both quality and thickness....


Which is better, more or less thick? I would think the thinner you can make it, the better.


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## Roger (Feb 18, 2005)

iammatt said:


> Along the same lines of confusion, in Italian "nappa" means both Napa Leather and tassels like you find on loafers.


Matt, so by Napa leather they mean lamb or sheep?


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## rider (Jan 8, 2004)

Never heard 'Nappa' meaning tassels.....

Nappa = Goat
Capretto = Sheep

Nappa is more greasy than Capretto and is finished 'matte', while Capretto carries a very high finish, like kangaroo. Capretto is also sueded and is called Velukid.


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