# Best cowboy boots discussion



## Matcha (Aug 25, 2004)

With all the useful talk on this forum about the best brands and styles of shoes, it would be great to hear opinions about cowboy boot manufacturers. 

Some of my questions: who makes the best boots in RTW? Large companies? Small bootmakers? Who makes the best custom boots? What's the sweet spot in price where you are looking at great quality for the money? Which exotic leathers hold up well and look great, which are fragile or cheesy? What's the best brand for $500, 1000, and up?

I saw a nice pair of Lucchese Classic line boots for $800 the other day in gator or croc, and was trying to judge their quality but didn't have the background to compare them.

Personally, I like the way cowboy boots look but, like my Crockett & Jones Coniston boots, don't wear them much because they tend to feel hot. I don't like walking in cowboy boots all day, they're not that comfortable, but maybe there are great brands that feel wonderful. I also don't own any jeans and haven't for 25 years since I don't think they flatter me. To wear them with a suit, I'd rather have the English banker look than the Houston oilman look, so I prefer oxfords, derbys, or loafers. 

But again, it's so much fun to check out new shoes and there are some great, quality boots out there. Just wondering where to start.


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## Kav (Jun 19, 2005)

Nancy Sinatra may have sung ' these boots are made for walking,' but 'cowboy boots' are made for riding.And cowboys don't call their boots and hats 'cowboy hats etc.'I don't dress in my 'commodities trader power suit.' We design many functional items for fashion; blazers, California goldrush miner pants, leather flying jackets. Then we complain they are this or that.


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## smdew2 (Mar 10, 2006)

I have Anderson Beans and love them. They are owned by Rio de Mercedes which also makes great boots.


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## Tomasso (Aug 17, 2005)

> quote:_Originally posted by Matcha_
> I don't like walking in cowboy boots all day, they're not that comfortable


Try a "roper" style boot.


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## Mr. Di Liberti (Jan 24, 2006)

Hey Matcha,

I been told Lucchese is one of the top makers of western boots, they'll make custom boots on last made from a mold of your feet.

Loveless - - is an other name often heard.
Besides making western boots they also make shoes MTM and bespoke. I'm planning a trip to Oklahoma city early next year to be fitted for a pair of bespoke shoes.

Caboots - https://caboots.com - in El Paso has been making shoe since 1935. They have a good sellection of RTW boots and shoes and they make MTM as well.

A western boot shouldn't be uncomfortable, no more then any other shoe.

Some things one needs to look at when selecting any style western boot (or other shoe) are the shape of the toe and heel & the height of the heel and instep.

A pair of riding boots with a heel designed to catch in a stirrup and allow you strain against it or stand without tearing off, will kill your feet if your going to be walking all day, this I know.

These are from Caboots;

The heel can be from 1 1/4" (#13 block) - 1 5/8" (#9 walking) - 2 1/4" (#3 underslung).

Even the best quality western boots will benefit from the addition of good insole, or rather your feet will.

Anthony

Courtesy is as much a mark of a gentleman as courage ~ Theodore Roosevelt


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## shoefan (Oct 30, 2003)

There are a large number of custom cowboy boot makers, many of whom have several year waiting lists. You can see examples of different makers' products at these discussion/forum sites, as well as read discussion of bootmaking topics:

Click through via Discussion:Tree View then click "the gallery"

https://customcowboybootsandshoesforum.com/
Click through "Discussion", then "Enter as Guest", then "Photos"

[urlhttps://www.quicktopic.com/25/H/8BcDPHgDYXz6/url]

As with shoes, I would assert that the best boots are custom made to your specific measurements, rather than based on some generic last. Further, with a custom boot, you can whatever design you desire on the toe and top.


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## geojohn (Aug 17, 2005)

For a slight diversion:


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## Chuck Franke (Aug 8, 2003)

Matcha - are you looking strictly for fashion boots or will these boots actually see stirrups?

If the latter, there are some reeeeaaallly important considerations.

Kav - you owe me a keyboard buddy.

www.carlofranco.com
Seven Fold Ties
Handmade in Italy


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## Matcha (Aug 25, 2004)

Carlo,

Not a stirrup in my future. Just for walking.


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## txeconomist (Feb 17, 2006)

If you dont want to go the custom route, then Lucchese is probably your best bet. They, like most, have different levels of quality/price. Lucchese offers the 2000, 1883 (i think), and Classics. The biggest influence on the price of the boots obviously is the skin used. Any pair of Lucchese will likely last a long time, but I would guess that gator boots rank among the top. A pair of gator belly Lucchese classics are probably a few thousand dollars. A pair of calfskin 2000s might be $200-300. Just decide how much you are willing to spend. You may not want a "riding" heel, they are a bit taller than a more conventional heel, and a little more difficult to walk around in. I personally like them though...


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## Trenditional (Feb 15, 2006)

Real "cowboys" wear roper style boots with crape(sp.?) soles. This style of boot is a very round toe and not so tall heel. The boot most think of as a cowboy boot (pointed toe and taller heel) is not a working boot. 

This said, off the shelf you don't get much better quality than Lucchesse. Tony Lama's are nice also. Go with full quill ostrich and you probably won't have a more comfortable boot.


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## Trenditional (Feb 15, 2006)

One other comment....

If you don't live in Texas, don't wear cowboy boots with a suit!

When I first became a police officer, many of my "senior mentors" wore cowboy boots with suits to court. Well hell, I like cowboy boots and since they wore them with suits I wore my boots with suits. At that time I even had a few trousers tailored longer so that the would break better with boots on. All this did was make them unwearable except with cowboy boots. Fortunately for me, I was blessed with meeting my wife and she knocked some sense in me. So much, I commented to her once recently (when we saw a man in boots and a suit), "What the hell was I thinking?"

Just my 2 cents.


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## Kav (Jun 19, 2005)

OMG! One season taking tourists down the Grand Canyon on the Mule concession in a pair of Montana hightops with a pointy toe and undershot high heals. Several packing trips in packer boots with pointy toes and undershot high heals. Three summers working the cattle at H Cattle company in Somis California in the above Montana Hightops. Countless backcountry rides in Alaska, California, Arizona, Texas and New Mexico. Working one summer at a horse ranch on Santa Catalina Island withg BOTH my high tops and packers. I'm not a 'real cowboy' because I don't wear 5 minute ropers on a 5 minute event saddle in a enclosed arena barrel racing, cutting cows or doing a reining pattern. I haven't been so ashamed since a Single Action Shooting Society member critisized my wearing wranglers and packers with a Arizona Puncher pattern hat, 1880s texas stock saddle and please, I'm allergic to horses and he looks mean ( my mare who has given at least 30 kids their first riding lesson.)[B)]


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## Trenditional (Feb 15, 2006)

> quote:_Originally posted by Kav_
> 
> OMG! One season taking tourists down the Grand Canyon on the Mule concession in a pair of Montana hightops with a pointy toe and undershot high heals. Several packing trips in packer boots with pointy toes and undershot high heals. Three summers working the cattle at H Cattle company in Somis California in the above Montana Hightops. Countless backcountry rides in Alaska, California, Arizona, Texas and New Mexico. Working one summer at a horse ranch on Santa Catalina Island withg BOTH my high tops and packers. I'm not a 'real cowboy' because I don't wear 5 minute ropers on a 5 minute event saddle in a enclosed arena barrel racing, cutting cows or doing a reining pattern. I haven't been so ashamed since a Single Action Shooting Society member critisized my wearing wranglers and packers with a Arizona Puncher pattern hat, 1880s texas stock saddle and please, I'm allergic to horses and he looks mean ( my mare who has given at least 30 kids their first riding lesson.)[B)]


I'm guessing you don't like ropers? 

I meant nothing against you personally, all of the "cowboys" I know who ride and own horses all wear roper styled boots.


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## jcusey (Apr 19, 2003)

> quote:_Originally posted by Matcha_
> 
> I saw a nice pair of Lucchese Classic line boots for $800 the other day in gator or croc, and was trying to judge their quality but didn't have the background to compare them.


Lucchese (Classic line only, *not* 2000 or 1883 line, both of which are substantially inferior) is the best-made RTW boot with wide distribution. They're practically all over the place, from those discount western superstores like Cavender's to more upscale places (like Stelzig's used to be before the West Loop expansion shut them down). Heck, Bergdorf Goodman in NYC even carries Lucchese boots.

Harder to find are JB Hill boots, but they're worth the search if you can. The few that I've seen have appeared to be made to higher standards than Lucchese boots, and they're priced like it. I'm still kicking myself for failing to take advantage when Neiman Marcus in Houston closed them out for ridiculously low prices about 7 years ago. I have also seen and been impressed with RTW boots from , which appear to be roughly comparable in quality to JB Hill.

If you're really interested in boots, or in having a design of your own made, you might want to check out , which is the preeminent custom bootmaker in Houston (there are, of course, dozens of good makers across the country and in Texas, but Dave Wheeler is the most prominent in Houston). $900 and up for custom boots made to your specifications on a modified stock last, and the construction quality is excellent.


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## Mr. Di Liberti (Jan 24, 2006)

> quote:_Originally posted by Trenditional_
> 
> If you don't live in Texas, don't wear cowboy boots with a suit!
> 
> Just my 2 cents.


I grew up in western boots (my mother had my first pair bronzed). I still wear this style boot, and until a few weeks ago they where the only dress shoes I owned. 

Learned to ride before I could pick up a saddle and last time I checked Chatsworth was not in Texas. 

I'll see your 2 cents and call,

Anthony

Courtesy is as much a mark of a gentleman as courage ~ Theodore Roosevelt


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## Kav (Jun 19, 2005)

Chatsworth California? I was 5 years old, sitting with my grandfather on De Soto ( then a dirt road) under the eucalyptus trees. Mr Duncan walked up with a stunning german shepherd and shared a cigar and stories of WW1.He had these tall, brown western riding boots on. After a few minutes he took his leave, called for 'Rinnny' or Rinn-Tinn-Tinn and walked on. Sometimes this guy named Roy would jump a palomino over the fence and get yelled at in gaelic by my great grandmother. She thought him a might peculiar what with that Nuettie feller's garish shirts on. She had great grandfather's Webley in the basket of materials she sewed blackface dolls with, since the pre eminent Valley store owned by the future Cardinal Mahoney's parents refused to carry products for or serve that community, them being Baptists . Now the real mark of a good boot is wearing it with your britches stuffed inside. Only sheepherders and fellas with stump trained horses pull the pant hemm over all that stitching. Take a look at old Charly Russell's scribbles sometime. A quality boot is all leather, fully lined, with a steel or bullhide leather stiffener in the sole and secured with steel nails or sometimes wooden pegs, even stitching and everything shaved and smooth. Chunky breaks in the sole and heel layers are the mark of a chunkhead cobbler.An improperly profiled boot can hang up in a stirrup. It should properly be loose in the heel, tight, but not binding in the instep and have proper toe room regardless of shape. A stitched 'toe bug' and uppers is neccessary both for keeping the lining from shifting, and for increasing grip against a saddle's fenders. Those stovetops are a good, secure carry for; money,maps, tobacco, pig stickers, matches and harmonicas.


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## Mr. Di Liberti (Jan 24, 2006)

My father was friends with Monty and Roy, and Jack had a place out there too. He got to know most these folk repairing their cars and trucks at his service station on Fallbrook. I have a picture around here, somewhere, of me on Trigger 2 when I was 6 months old. The last time I saw Monty was just before he passed, at his place out in Apple Valley.

Before the 118 was there, you had the Old Road or Santa Susana Pass, and there wasn't much at all north of Devonshire Blvd. We use to hunt out in lancaster before it became residential. When I became old enough to get served in a bar, there was this place near the end of Devonshire which still had a hitching post out back. The coolest thing about riding to the bar, the horse wanted nothing more then to go back to the stable, it didn't matter how drunk you got, the horse would take you home.

Anthony

Courtesy is as much a mark of a gentleman as courage ~ Theodore Roosevelt


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## daltx (Jan 19, 2006)

Rocky Carroll in Houston Texas is considered by many to be the best custom boot maker in the state. He has made 100's of pairs for the Bush family as well as many boots for other politicians and celebrities (including Bill Clinton if you are anti-Bush). He does not have a website but I feel certain you could look up his address and phone number online.


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## jason chang (Mar 5, 2006)

hi there:

i've been wearing cowboy boots exclusively for several months now. i don't have ahuge budget, but i'd say that in the $250-$450 range is where you get the most quality for your money. luchesse boots are great, but i find that tony lama and double h are the most comfortable. i walk in mine for hours on end. hope this helps...

i also know that tony lama has a custom shop--but whoa! those boots aren't cheap.


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## Kav (Jun 19, 2005)

In all honesty quality custom bootmakers are legion. If the dress shoe industry ever vanished these craftsmen could probably step in and match the best past efforts. Men have to take a clue from the ladies with high heeled boots. While the fit is obviously critical, remember your tendons and leg muscles will be 'restrung.' This is the most common cause of discomfort. Our common mode of walking is heal to toe vs toe to heal of many cultures more accustomed to daily walking.Think the Duke in Red River or Monroe in that tight dress and ROOOOOLLLL those buttocks pilgrim. A quality sock is also critical. Good boots will be lined to reduce chafing, especially along that long uppers seam. Theres a erroneous myth about keeping boots on outdoors and never removing them. RUBBISH! If you can, discretely remove your boots, get some air on your feet and fresh socks. The blisters from heat and chafing will be rare to none. There is also this misguided idea of jeans being de riguer, like a scoop of chocolate and Vanilla with hotdogs and beans. I like rhum raison with mine; corderoys, whipcord western cut slacks and moleskin. Heck, If you get brave just buy some angorra fur leggin's like this nimrod at a reenactor meet.July and he had these things on, kicking his jinglebob spurs as he did a perfect rolling swagger encrusted with twin scofields, a derringer, bowie knife, Merwin and Hulbert in a shoulder rig and hammer shotgun. Looked mui hombre he did, spreadeagled on the ground with the paramedics cuting that stuff off with spyderco sheepfoot blades[8D]


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## 16412 (Apr 1, 2005)

Kav- You a rope spinner like Will Rogers? I use to do that a lot. Do it for 5 hours and lose 5#. But, need a good place to do it (rather wet around here). The wwac is a good resource.

Trenditional- Those round toed roper boots are for driving a pickup. Real cowboy boots are made for riding wild and half wild horses. Pointed toes for the quick step into the saddle and high heels so the foot don't slip all the way into the stirup. Horse can spin around and kick so fast you wish you were looking at stars the right way (not my problem, but other people have had it). If one falls off a horse with a foot stuck in the stirup roll over face down. The under cut heel is nicer for walking, too.


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## Matcha (Aug 25, 2004)

> quote:If you're really interested in boots, or in having a design of your own made, you might want to check out , which is the preeminent custom bootmaker in Houston (there are, of course, dozens of good makers across the country and in Texas, but Dave Wheeler is the most prominent in Houston). $900 and up for custom boots made to your specifications on a modified stock last, and the construction quality is excellent.


I went by Wheelers and had a nice chat with his wife. Sadly, Dave passed away. Just a few months ago. His son and another craftsman work together on the boots. The waiting list is a year, the price is $1200-2500+. For $2000+ you get things like inlays, "outlays", and more exotic leathers. Quality looked good, the work is clean. Some of the inlays that involved cut-out small lettering looked like they could have been better.

It would really be a blast to get a pair of custom boots with a unique design on the uppers. Maybe we should have an Ask Andy pair of Texas boots?

Since Dave Wheeler has died, I wondered whether the store continues to produce the same quality of boots, especially with the more artistic inlays. I tried to get a sense of that from looking at the boots that were floor models, but it was hard to tell which, if any, were made recently.


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## Havana Jake (Nov 28, 2005)

Kav wrote:

"OMG! One season taking tourists down the Grand Canyon on the Mule concession in a pair of Montana hightops with a pointy toe and undershot high heals. Several packing trips in packer boots with pointy toes and undershot high heals. Three summers working the cattle at H Cattle company in Somis California in the above Montana Hightops. Countless backcountry rides in Alaska, California, Arizona, Texas and New Mexico. Working one summer at a horse ranch on Santa Catalina Island withg BOTH my high tops and packers. I'm not a 'real cowboy' because I don't wear 5 minute ropers on a 5 minute event saddle in a enclosed arena barrel racing, cutting cows or doing a reining pattern. I haven't been so ashamed since a Single Action Shooting Society member critisized my wearing wranglers and packers with a Arizona Puncher pattern hat, 1880s texas stock saddle and please, I'm allergic to horses and he looks mean ( my mare who has given at least 30 kids their first riding lesson.)"

Can't quite figure what that's all about, but glad to have your resume, Kav. Don't really know why but it rubs me the wrong way. I don't think anybody was trying to be something they aren't. They're just asking questions. Let's go easy, huh?


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## cmavity (Feb 5, 2009)

Jake, Kav was responding to Trenditional's post two above his, not the original post. Perhaps you missed his point in all the lingo, but I don't think he appreciated being told that he wasn't shod like a real cowboy.


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## Preu Pummel (Feb 5, 2008)

The only pair I ever owned came from a road side boot shop in Tennessee, 1992. I had just ridden by motorcycle over the mountains from NC through a giant rain storm. My sneakers were wet and inappropriate for cross country riding.

I got a pair of Dingo dress boots with cuban heel and pointed toes. $100.

Best shoes I had for years. They molded to my feet and were like bedroom slippers after a week.

I agree with the need for good socks. If you aren't wearing decently comfortable socks, you are knocking yourself out.


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## foodguy (Feb 6, 2009)

on the other hand, back in my misspent youth i spent several years writing about rodeo. and i remember the prca (cowboy's association) had to pass a rule requiring cowboys to wear boots and hats in the ring, because so many of them were opting for the more comfortable and functional jogging shoes and baseball caps. i still think a sharp pair of black leather boots makes a statement, though i do still dream about a pair Larry Mahan tried to give me of red white and blue bicentennial boots. damned ethics.


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## Kav (Jun 19, 2005)

Ressurecting old threads is like getting a phone call at 4 A.M. from a girl you dated once 9 months ago.
Huh?
Who?
Me?
Really?
I said what?


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## smujd (Mar 18, 2008)

Ropers are just fine if you're trying to win a buckle. Otherwise, unless you're a Yankee trying to look like a Texan, avoid at all costs.


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## arnaud (Apr 10, 2007)

smujd said:


> Ropers are just fine if you're trying to win a buckle. Otherwise, unless you're a Yankee trying to look like a Texan, avoid at all costs.


You silly Texans: what in Sam hell do ya'll know about boots? Ropers are the sh**.


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## Kav (Jun 19, 2005)

get a rope.~~~~~O


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## texsyn (Sep 26, 2007)

Make it long we don't wanna do this agin.


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## wes07 (Sep 21, 2009)

Lucchese is by far the best cowboy boot company of all time, and probably one of the best American designers of all time as well. (I know thats alot of credit). But - If you read up on how the company came to be, who Lucchese made custom boots for, and how the boots have been getting made for over 100 years you will see what I mean. Plus - they come in alligator, crocodile, stingray, you name it. The best western/cowboy boots ever period.


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^
Welcome to the forum wes07. Lucchese Classics are fine boots...I've been very happy with mine...but, the best of all time? There are a lot of fish out there in that ocean!  For your next vacation, take a drive to Nogales, AZ, and visit the Paul Bond Boot company...have then measure your feet and then craft a pair of boots for you...wonderful experience, great memories and a fine pair of boots in the process...it just doesn't get much better than that!


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