# Watch band clasp



## 10gallonhat (Dec 13, 2009)

I'm planning to pick up a new band for my watch soon (going from stainless to black croc) and there are two choices - a "tang buckle" (basically the standard buckle on most leather watch straps) and a "deployant clasp." The deployant is what comes with the stainless band and I've never seen it on leather before, but I'm no watch expert.










Apparently the deployant is more popular, and it definitely looks interesting but since I've never seen it before I'm not sure if it would attract strange looks. Here's an example of the deployant on a regular leather band (not the croc):










It's also a little more expensive. The croc+tang is about 400 and the croc+deployant is about 600. The deployant looks great on the metal bands but I'm not sure how it will look on the leather, and there is no way to see it in person before buying it.

What do you all think?


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## roba (Mar 5, 2005)

*Deployant clasps are not uncommon on leather bands...*

Some are single fold - like the one in your photo - and some are double fold. One caveat is that the curved metal component of a single fold deployant clasp may rest itself in a position that forces the watch head to sit off centre on top of your wrist. If it does so uncomfortably then (with a single fold strap) you may deed to get a custom strap made (Atelier du Bracelet, Paris are very good). With double fold deployants each side of the strap can (usually) be adjusted to allow everything to sit comfortably.

Another caveat is that the deployant clasp may be thicker than a tang buckle (that's obvious from your photo anyway) causing problems with slimmer shirt cuffs.

My feeling, and it's just my preference, is that deployant clasps work well with sport watches (which tend to be larger anyway) and tang buckles work better with dressier watches. If you like the look then go for it, you'll only need a custom strap if the watch is uncomfortable with a single sided deployant clasp.


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## MightyPir (Aug 1, 2009)

The biggest advantage to the deployant clasp is that of strap longevity. With the tang style you will invariably wear the leather away opening and closing the strap. With the deployant you dont have this problem and this makes it ideal for an expensive strap. Other advantages are that you have less risk of dropping the watch while putting it on, and it makes life a whole lot easier. It also look cleaner. 

Unmarked deployants can be bought from anywhere and they fit tang straps with no problem. I have one on each of my watches with leather straps.


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## temple_gym (Oct 10, 2010)

I second MightyPir. A deployment is "safer". I have a Oris Frank Sinatra with deployment strp but it takes a bit of practice to to close the strap. And obviously a tang buckle is a no-brainer.

Custom-made watch strap esp. exotic leather seems to be catching up, at least from I am located. Consumers are getting bored with OEMs. And for the price that you are willing to pay, you may want to look around for a bespoke strap that can custom to the lug of your Brietling? A site I remember visiting is: https://www.dalucastraps.com/categories/Croc-Watch-Straps/. And if you need a recommendation for a bespoke strap, PM me


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## mrp (Mar 1, 2011)

a!!!!1 said:


> It's also a little more expensive. The croc+tang is about 400 and the croc+deployant is about 600. The deployant looks great on the metal bands but I'm not sure how it will look on the leather, and there is no way to see it in person before buying it.
> 
> What do you all think?


 They look a bit chunky to me.
400 and 600 what?


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## eagle2250 (Mar 24, 2006)

^^
I'm betting $$!


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## mrp (Mar 1, 2011)

eagle2250 said:


> ^^
> I'm betting $$!


 You, may be correct.
In my case I have bought many a hand sewn watch strap out of Europe over the years, while some would consider them pricey they were still well below 400-600.
I have a 6' Rattlesnake skin hanging in one of my sons rooms that I killed in the yard years ago, maybe I should turn it into watchbands.


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## sirchandler (May 28, 2010)

a!!!!1 said:


> I'm planning to pick up a new band for my watch soon (going from stainless to black croc) and there are two choices - a "tang buckle" (basically the standard buckle on most leather watch straps) and a "deployant clasp." The deployant is what comes with the stainless band and I've never seen it on leather before, but I'm no watch expert.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


breitling navitimer with folding clasp, right? I love the watch and folding clasp. I think it's a really clean and modern look. I've got the same watch with that clasp, no one will ever notice. unless they have the same watch. I'll try and post photos later when I get to work.


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## shore living (Jul 7, 2011)

Go deployant, butterfly. Alligator is a little less then croc. That all being said at 600.00 and not .925 silver or gold it is too high. You will pay much more for a Breit deployant due to well... Being embossed by Breit. Check out after market in silver,you'll save much moreKeep original strap in box if you ever sell, and try Watchuseek.com. Great info.Very much like this site. Beware watches are like crack!


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## wj_johnson (Jul 24, 2011)

MightyPir said:


> The biggest advantage to the deployant clasp is that of strap longevity. With the tang style you will invariably wear the leather away opening and closing the strap. With the deployant you dont have this problem and this makes it ideal for an expensive strap. Other advantages are that you have less risk of dropping the watch while putting it on, and it makes life a whole lot easier. It also look cleaner.
> 
> Unmarked deployants can be bought from anywhere and they fit tang straps with no problem. I have one on each of my watches with leather straps.


I second it as well, deployment clasps look cleaner and the watch band lasts longer.


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## Bandit44 (Oct 1, 2010)

Unless you feel it necessary to have a Breitling clasp, I'd save some money and buy aftermarket. RHD makes excellent clasps for $40; I've owned one before and was very happy with it. https://www.mywatchmaker.net/deployantclasp.htm If it were me, I'd choose Louisiana alligator over crocodile; it is a better looking leather. DiModell and Hirsch both make killer straps and are readily available online.

Buying a new strap is a fun. Almost feels like getting a brand new watch, but is much cheaper.


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## mrp (Mar 1, 2011)

Bandit44 said:


> Unless you feel it necessary to have a Breitling clasp, I'd save some money and buy aftermarket. RHD makes excellent clasps for $40; I've owned one before and was very happy with it. https://www.mywatchmaker.net/deployantclasp.htm If it were me, I'd choose Louisiana alligator over crocodile; it is a better looking leather. DiModell and Hirsch both make killer straps and are readily available online.
> Buying a new strap is a fun. Almost feels like getting a brand new watch, but is much cheaper.


Thanks for the link.


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## mrp (Mar 1, 2011)

Bandit44 said:


> Unless you feel it necessary to have a Breitling clasp, I'd save some money and buy aftermarket. RHD makes excellent clasps for $40; I've owned one before and was very happy with it. https://www.mywatchmaker.net/deployantclasp.htm If it were me, I'd choose Louisiana alligator over crocodile; it is a better looking leather. DiModell and Hirsch both make killer straps and are readily available online.
> 
> Buying a new strap is a fun. Almost feels like getting a brand new watch, but is much cheaper.


As a follow up, I bought a strap and deployment clasp for my Citizen eco drive
https://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41D8zyXaLZL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
Great watch the original strap isn't the best.
Watchmaker.net was a pleasure to deal with, called me back with a question (asked if he could mount the clasp for me, also how I heard of him), fast ship. The strap I picked up is quality construction and the deployment clasp should be less work (less chance of dropping the watch while buckling).


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## Upperguy (Jul 26, 2011)

I love Breitling but I don't know if I could ever bring myself to pay up to $600 for a strap! There are a number of very well qualified leatherworkers that can make you exotic leather straps for every day of the week at that price.

That being said, my favorite deployment is the butterfly, it opens as shown: 
With this style clasp it centers it under the 'buckle' so that there is no risk of raising or shifting the face, they also seem to be lower profile by design. Something to think about, if you're a stickler for OEM though, it's your wallet.


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## Belfaborac (Aug 20, 2011)

I second the calls in favour of a deployment clasp. although to be fair it may well be that you find a regular buckle more comfortable. As stated above though, strap wear then becomes an issue. In particular if you choose to go with a genuine Breitling strap, as they are horrendously overpriced, just like most other branded straps.

If I were you I would go with a good quality aftermarket clasp, such as this Axel Jost single fold clasp. I have a fair number of clasps, from a fair number of places and this is easily the best I have seen. Alternatively, if you want/need to have one which resembles the genuine article, you can find an unbranded Breitling-type clasp (of exactly the same quality) and here.

An added benefit of a relatively inexpensive aftermarket clasp is that one feels less reticent about adjusting something costing $50, than something costing $X00. If the watch head is slightly out of whack with the deployment clasp fitted and the strap suitably tightened, this can often be remedied by adjusting the curve of the clasp with a couple of pliers. I've done this to every one of my clasps (around 12 or 13), with no mishaps whatsoever.

If you'd like suggestions for a nice strap or two, I can recommend this lovely gator strap (I have two myself, one fitted to a Chronomat), which is truly excellent value for money; this one from Di Modell which is only ever so slightly pricier, and finally this lovely thing from Camille Fournet if you want the very best. Or you may find something you like better elsewhere on those sites.

Alternatively you can have one made just for you. There are a large (LARGE) number of custom strap makers out there, many of them capable of making straps which will easily rival anything found in shops, no matter the price. A spot of googling will help you out in no time, but personally I can wholeheartedly recommend and .


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

I don't get it. Why does a watchband cost more than a belt?

https://jpressonline.com/accessories_belts_leather_detail.php?id=BT3280P


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## Belfaborac (Aug 20, 2011)

There are always those who will pay silly money for something worth a trifle, if only it is perceived as exclusive.


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## mrp (Mar 1, 2011)

arkirshner said:


> I don't get it. Why does a watchband cost more than a belt?
> 
> https://jpressonline.com/accessories_belts_leather_detail.php?id=BT3280P


LOL, it's that magic thread they are using. As mentioned the source Rambler provided worked out just fine for me.


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## arkirshner (May 10, 2005)

Belfaborac said:


> There are always those who will pay silly money for something worth a trifle, if only it is perceived as exclusive.


Great turn of the phrase.


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## Bjorn (May 2, 2010)

Belts require less work and finishing, and are easier to make, or so I've heard.


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## JohnAndrew (Oct 5, 2005)

What is the difference between a Panerai style deployant clasp and a butterfly style?


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## Belfaborac (Aug 20, 2011)

Nothing at all - the Panerai clasp *is* a butterfly clasp.


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## JohnAndrew (Oct 5, 2005)

Check out this link and tell me how the two are different?


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## Belfaborac (Aug 20, 2011)

I'm not sure I understand what you mean. I said they were the same and you want me to explain how they're not?


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## JohnAndrew (Oct 5, 2005)

Let me rephrase. What is the difference between the two in the above link? They look different to me.


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## ndsleep612 (Aug 30, 2011)

a!!!!1 said:


> I'm planning to pick up a new band for my watch soon (going from stainless to black croc) and there are two choices - a "tang buckle" (basically the standard buckle on most leather watch straps) and a "deployant clasp." The deployant is what comes with the stainless band and I've never seen it on leather before, but I'm no watch expert.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


It all depends if you prefer to stay with OEM (original equipment..) or go aftermarket. Sometimes if you factor in the cost, a tang buckle is much better for a watch strap if you don't wear it frequently. A deployant clasp is good if you wear a particular watch on a regular basis and don't want to wear out the strap holes quickly.

Also keep in mind that certain watch straps fit deployant clasps better than others due to the thickness of the padding. If branding isn't important, I can give you the info of a guy that sells great aftermarket deployant clasps. Single deployant and double deployant (aka. butterfly) are similar yet different. Sometimes with the single deployant clasps you have to fit it on the strap backwards for efficient comfort. It all depends on your wrist curve and comfort.

It seems like you're a Breitling guy, just curious which model is this particular strap going on?


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## Racer (Apr 16, 2010)

JohnAndrew said:


> Let me rephrase. What is the difference between the two in the above link? They look different to me.


I think you answered your own question :icon_smile:


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## 10gallonhat (Dec 13, 2009)

Belfaborac said:


> I second the calls in favour of a deployment clasp. although to be fair it may well be that you find a regular buckle more comfortable. As stated above though, strap wear then becomes an issue. In particular if you choose to go with a genuine Breitling strap, as they are horrendously overpriced, just like most other branded straps.
> 
> If I were you I would go with a good quality aftermarket clasp, such as this Axel Jost single fold clasp. I have a fair number of clasps, from a fair number of places and this is easily the best I have seen. Alternatively, if you want/need to have one which resembles the genuine article, you can find an unbranded Breitling-type clasp (of exactly the same quality) and here.
> 
> ...


Thanks for all the links, I'll definitely take a look at them all and let you know if I find anything I like! I'm not much of a watch connoisseur, can I just buy a strap and a clasp from different places (assuming they're both the correct size) and they'll be guaranteed to fit?



ndsleep612 said:


> It all depends if you prefer to stay with OEM (original equipment..) or go aftermarket. Sometimes if you factor in the cost, a tang buckle is much better for a watch strap if you don't wear it frequently. A deployant clasp is good if you wear a particular watch on a regular basis and don't want to wear out the strap holes quickly.
> 
> Also keep in mind that certain watch straps fit deployant clasps better than others due to the thickness of the padding. If branding isn't important, I can give you the info of a guy that sells great aftermarket deployant clasps. Single deployant and double deployant (aka. butterfly) are similar yet different. Sometimes with the single deployant clasps you have to fit it on the strap backwards for efficient comfort. It all depends on your wrist curve and comfort.
> 
> It seems like you're a Breitling guy, just curious which model is this particular strap going on?


I don't wear this watch too often, maybe 1-2 times a week. What would you consider "frequent?" It's going on a Super Avenger.


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## ndsleep612 (Aug 30, 2011)

a!!!!1 said:


> Thanks for all the links, I'll definitely take a look at them all and let you know if I find anything I like! I'm not much of a watch connoisseur, can I just buy a strap and a clasp from different places (assuming they're both the correct size) and they'll be guaranteed to fit?
> 
> I don't wear this watch too often, maybe 1-2 times a week. What would you consider "frequent?" It's going on a Super Avenger.


"Frequent" would be 4-5 times a week. The only benefit of a deployant clasp over a tang buckle is the prolonged lifespan of the watch strap holes. Another thing you may want to consider is what position do you prefer to leave your watch on the table. Having a tang buckle allows you to lay the watch flat on the case back when you take it off your wrist and put it on a table, while a deployant clasp only allows you to lay the watch on it's side.


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## 10gallonhat (Dec 13, 2009)

I'm leaning towards the tang. Even though this is a sports watch, the deployant just looks a little TOO sporty for me (however, it is unfortunate that I can't find a shop here that actually stocks the bands with both clasps so I can look at them in person first). But since I don't wear the watch too often, wearing down the strap shouldn't be an issue. Thanks for all the replies!


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## PTB in San Diego (Jan 2, 2010)

a!!!!1 said:


> I'm leaning towards the tang. Even though this is a sports watch, the deployant just looks a little TOO sporty for me (however, it is unfortunate that I can't find a shop here that actually stocks the bands with both clasps so I can look at them in person first). But since I don't wear the watch too often, wearing down the strap shouldn't be an issue. Thanks for all the replies!


Suggest you reconsider. The deployant is pretty much un-noticeable when it's on the wrist. My RGM came with one, and I have learned to really like it. Clips into place nicely, feels good, and lets you put the watch on quickly with reduced risk of dropping it.

I have two watches that I wear with business clothes - the RGM and a vintage Rolex Air King. I need a new band for the latter, and I plan to add a deployant. You get used to it, it seems really natural.

And now that I know what a "Super Avenger" is, I think that it is simply crying out for a deployant. I wouldn't consider anything else for that watch.


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## joenobody0 (Jun 30, 2009)

ndsleep612 said:


> "Frequent" would be 4-5 times a week. The only benefit of a deployant clasp over a tang buckle is the prolonged lifespan of the watch strap holes. Another thing you may want to consider is what position do you prefer to leave your watch on the table. Having a tang buckle allows you to lay the watch flat on the case back when you take it off your wrist and put it on a table, while a deployant clasp only allows you to lay the watch on it's side.


It's easier to drop a watch with a tang buckle than with the deployment when you're putting it on. It seems like 9/10 posters on the watch forums mention dropping a mechanical watch if they've used a tang for long enough time.


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## Mute (Apr 3, 2005)

I'd take a deployant clasp over a tang buckle every time.


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## mrp (Mar 1, 2011)

a!!!!1 said:


> I'm leaning towards the tang. Even though this is a sports watch, the deployant just looks a little TOO sporty for me (however, it is unfortunate that I can't find a shop here that actually stocks the bands with both clasps so I can look at them in person first). But since I don't wear the watch too often, wearing down the strap shouldn't be an issue. Thanks for all the replies!


You just need to buy the less sporty deployment clasp not the huge ones.







I've referenced where I bought one of these earlier in the thread
Once you use one you'll find they work great, no more fussing, and you won't have a flash of insight played out in slow motion in your mind if you do drop a watch with a tang strap (oh crap I should have bought one of the those butterfly deployment buckles).


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## Pantherhare (May 29, 2008)

Apologies for the late bump, but how does one install a deployment clasp on a strap that already has a tang buckle? I'm about to get a Hamilton Jazzmaster with a leather strap and just learned about the advantages of a deployment clasp but have been unable to find anything about installation.


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## Racer (Apr 16, 2010)

Adding the clasp instead of a different buckle entails the same steps.


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## dba (Oct 22, 2010)

If your watch is a Breitling, I'd go with the Breitling band with the deployant clasp.


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## Pantherhare (May 29, 2008)

Racer said:


> Adding the clasp instead of a different buckle entails the same steps.


Thanks!


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## Bandit44 (Oct 1, 2010)

At one time, the Hamilton Jazzmaster came with a deployant clasp. That may no longer be the case; I haven't kept up with the latest Hamiltons.


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