# Johnston & Murphy Melton



## g.michael (Jul 9, 2010)

These are J&M's entry level dress shoe--usually retails at about $165. I bought a pair about 12 years ago (for $165 or so, maybe less) and they need new soles/heels. I was staring at them and trying to figure out if I should just get rid of them and buy a higher level shoe--but they shine up really nicely still. However, the creasing is pretty pronounced.

Anyway, my question is what kind of leather is this shoe made of? For $165 i would assume it's not top of the line calfskin.

Thanks


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## cmacey (May 3, 2009)

You may be right...probably corrected grain; can't tell without pictures.


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## Orsini (Apr 24, 2007)

My experience has been that even $50 shoes can give several seasons service when properly rotated and maintained. You just can't wear the same shoe every day, you know. Put the cedar trees in as soon as you take them off. Have your shoe guy shine then up once in a while. Don't wear the same shoe more than once a week.


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## ashcroft99 (Dec 12, 2008)

I had two pairs--bought three years ago (I no longer have them, replaced by better quality shoes). IIRC, they were made of "veal", which may simply mean "calfskin," or perhaps suggests older calfskin, cheaper calfskin (correcting the grain would be even more necessary). Certainly corrected grain. They carried some kind of varnish, not sure if that's the right term, that faded in spots. Who knows? Might have had some salt stick on them, etc. They're okay shoes...but I wouldn't recommend them if you can afford something better. What's the Chinese proverb? "Pay up, weep once"? Consider a pair of Alden shoes--others can recommend other higher quality brands.


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## Bandit44 (Oct 1, 2010)

If you still like the shoes, spend a few bucks to get them resoled. If it were me, I'd cap my investment at $50 though. Hopefully, you can find a competent cobbler in that range. I wouldn't be surprised if those Meltons are the Made in USA versions, which I'd guess are superior to today's Melton.


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## joeyzaza (Dec 9, 2005)

The leather is probably a corrected grain. I have a pair of brown Meltons that are about 8 years old (non-USA). They shine up nicely and have held up well. I consider them to be a nice looking, basic shoe. Despite what some may say on the trad board, it is a very nice shoe, especially if AE or Alden is out of your price range. They can typically be found for much less than $165.


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## Flanderian (Apr 30, 2008)

ashcroft99 said:


> made of "veal"


Veal skin was/is a marketing term used to describe cowhide that can't be termed calfskin. It implies calf, or at least, younger cowhide. Calfskin is the whole hide. If memory serves, mature cowhide is about 1/2" thick and too thick to be used whole for most leathers. Therefore is is sliced. The outside slice can be called top grain, as the outside of the leather is the outside of the hide. Lower slices must be coated to seal them, thereby making them corrected grain, or used for suede. I don't mind top grain cowhide for casual shoes, particularly slip ons. Top grain cowhide isn't as supple as calf, but it can take a good shine, tends to crease less, perhaps a little like shell, and can be quite durable.


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## g.michael (Jul 9, 2010)

Bandit44 said:


> If you still like the shoes, spend a few bucks to get them resoled. If it were me, I'd cap my investment at $50 though. Hopefully, you can find a competent cobbler in that range. I wouldn't be surprised if those Meltons are the Made in USA versions, which I'd guess are superior to today's Melton.


They are indeed "made in the USA"--stamped on the sole--probably one of the final ones (ca. 1999). I've worn them alot in the past and the creasing is pretty pronounced but they probably have several more years of life left in them with an economical resole (doesn't make sense to do a $100+ recrafting on $150 shoes--at least for me). They have more sentimental value for me than anything, as I haven't worn them for years and have stepped up to nicer shoes (AE, Alden, Polo by C&J). Interesting to hear about the different kind of leathers, so thanks everyone for chiming in.


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## YoungClayB (Nov 16, 2009)

Meltons are corrected grain. I had a black pair that I had resoled and I regretted doing so. Put your $50 towards the purchase of an AE Park Ave second and you will be all set. (around $220 from the AE shoe bank)


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## ESilver (Jul 1, 2005)

I feel like such a contrarian when it comes to J&M. 

I have three pairs of Meltons -- one purchased in 2005, another around 2010 and one last month. Side by side and shined, it is nearly impossible to tell which is oldest/newest. Granted, I rotate my shoes frequently so I only wear the Meltons 3 or 4 times per month and religiously use shoe trees. 

My only suggestion is to only buy them in black. (Scuff the burgundy ones and you will see what a thin veneer that surface color is.) Apart from that, it has proven to be a well-made, durable shoe. I should also add that no other shoe(s) I own receive as many compliments as the Meltons and my other brands are considered "nicer" -- Bruno Magli, Allen Edmonds, Ferragamo. To me, the Melton is a bland, inconspicuous shoe, however, others seem to like it a lot. I conjecture the larger cap toe (compared to the AE Park Avenue, for instance) somehow enhances or accentuates the look of the shoe, in their eyes.


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