Matt S
Reaction score
953

Profile posts Latest activity Postings About

  • For what it’s worth, Andrew claims that all work for all garments (including shirts, which at Maurice Sedwell, have full canvassed collars according to Andrew Ramroop) is done on the premises. There’s no outsourcing of any work at all.
    Another question I asked Maurice Sedwell was about their handwork. Andrew told me that their shirts are 100% hand stitched only and that all tailored garments have three levels of handwork.
    Audi S5 TC
    Audi S5 TC
    The first level of handwork is 80% hand stitched, which is 10% of tailored clothing sales.

    The second is 98% hand stitched, which is 80% of tailored clothing sales. This second level is free of extra charge on dresses, pants, shorts, skirts and vests and 20% extra on all other tailored garments. Then there’s 100% hand stitched, which is 50% extra on all tailored garments and 10% of tailored clothing sales.
    For what it’s worth, Andrew also said that Maurice Sedwell’s house style consists of moderately built up shoulders and that their house style works equally well and very well for big and small shoulders but best for moderate shoulders. The way he described it, their house style is the halfway point of Anderson & Shepherd and H. Huntsman and is the only English tailor to have this house style.
    Matt S
    Matt S
    Plenty of English tailors are halfway between A&S and Huntsman. That aspect is not unique to Maurice Sedwell's house style. That doesn't mean they don't have a unique house style. I find that Sedwell is on the more structured side of halfway, which makes them more unique than the tailors that are on the softer side of halfway. They all have different interpretations of halfway.
    Audi S5 TC
    Audi S5 TC
    Andrew Ramroop claims Maurice Sedwell’s house style is neither on the more structured side nor the softer side of the halfway point of Anderson & Shepherd and H. Huntsman but the same exact distance from each extreme where other English tailors between the two extremes are closer to one or the other.
    Matt S
    Matt S
    There's no such thing as exactly halfway when comparing tailoring styles. This is their interpretation. Other tailors interpret their house styles in similar ways. English tailoring isn't on a scale of more structured or more soft. There are many variables that come into the tailoring styles of each house.
    Hi Matt S, it’s Audi S5 TC. I emailed Maurice Sedwell a couple of weeks ago asking them several questions about their product.

    One of the questions I asked them was about their house style. Andrew Ramroop, the current owner of Maurice Sedwell, said their house style is very distinctive and not used by other English tailors.
    Matt, hi, your knowledge and guidance is being called for in the "It's Tweed Season" thread. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Best, Fading Fast.
    I posted those coat questions on the Fashion Forum but I still haven't gotten a response. So just in case I don't get a response, I decided to ask you personally since if anybody would know the answers, it would absolutely be you. Thank you again. :)
    Hi MattS, it Audi S5 TC. Since you have proven to be extremely knowledgeable about mens dress wear and formal wear, I have some questions for you.

    Can a coat have a hand padded collar and machine padded lapels or vice versa? Or, do both have to be padded by hand or by machine?

    In countless pictures and videos, I’ve only seen both by hand or both by machine but never one by hand and the other by machine.
    Matt S
    Matt S
    I'm sure it can be done either way, but if you're going to do one by hand you might as well be doing the other.
    Hi Matt,

    Since you're an expert on the subject I hope you don't mind me asking you another question!

    To go with my black patent opera pumps I need a quality pair of silk socks to go with them (I think). Could you recommend a pair / a brand for me? Also in your opinion should they be slightly transparent / translucent or plain black?

    Thanks again

    Kevin
    Hi MattS, it's Audi S5 TC. Since you have proven to be extremely knowledgeable about mens dress wear and formal wear, I have some questions for you.

    Do trousers and vests have full canvassing, full fusing, half canvassing or interfacings? And, do these two garments have hand cutting, hand finishing, hand padding, hand stitching and hand tailoring? If so, do trousers and vests have the same percentage of each of these types of handwork that coats have?
    I like this idea as well. I'm going to give it a shot and see how it looks. If its a nogo, then I'll just have to be happy with the jacket alone. Thanks again. Looking at some other suit pictures, I see what you're referring to. Hopefully I can find someone locally to help with the quarters. Quote: Originally Posted by Morlock View Post Matt, Have you had luck in a tailor making this kind of alteration? I have not had it done myself, but it can definitely be done. The quarters don't need to be changed that much, but a little hint of an "X" would be much more attractive. As for the waistcoat, it is functionally too long as you can see it bunch up when you put your hands in your pockets. What I would suggest is to see if your tailor can hem it just above the bottom row of buttons and place the buttons inbetween the two remaining rows, along with cutting a new buttonhole. The only problem you might encounter is if the rise of your trousers is too short and the waistcoat won't cover the trousers' waistband. It would probably be simplet to go without the waistcoat. Or if you don't want to try to alter the waistcoat to make it look better, consider something like this: http://www.pakeman.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=6422 It would look great with the suit, but the linen will keep you cool. Reply With Quote
  • Loading…
  • Loading…
  • Loading…