1. Matt S

    Are Military Gig Lines Flawed?

    I've read on here about gig lines from the military members, about how the opening of shirt, the front of the belt buckle and the trouser fly should all line up. But I find it faulty to line up these parts because the shirt ends up twisted across the body. The proper gig line don't create as...
  2. Matt S

    Fixes for split leather shoes?

    Two of my oldest, most-worn pairs of shoes have split leather on the sides near the base of the big toe. The tears in the leather aren't noticeable from eye level. I know that nothing can heal torn leather, but is there anything I can use to fill the fissures and prevent the tears from growing...
  3. Matt S

    Grey cotton: yay or nay?

    I find that grey often doesn't look right in cotton. I find that cotton looks best in colours or earth tone, while grey cotton looks like it's had the life sucked out of it. Especially when see grey in chino or moleskin, it looks very lifeless. Grey cotton shirts can sometimes work, but they...
  4. Matt S

    official The Clothing of James Bond (007)

    Welcome to The Official Clothing of James Bond Thread! In this thread we'll discuss all things related to any aspect of wardrobe worn by any & every Bond there was and will be. The story begins back in 1953 with the novel Casino Royale. In 1962, the movie Dr. No, introduced the world to the...
  5. Matt S

    Breaking Rules to Compensate for Suits with Low-Rise Trousers

    Most suits sold now come with low-rise trousers. It's very sad. Traditionally suit trousers sat up near the waist, and the jacket fastened at the waist. There was no fear of the shirt showing below the fastened jacket button and the waist of the trousers because the jacket buttoned only just...
  6. Matt S

    Where can I find a slim-fit cashmere sweater?

    My girlfriend got me a cashmere sweater last month for my birthday, but we had to return it because it was a size small and too large. It was baggy around the waist and too long. We've gone shopping for others, but men's smalls are always either too big and/or too long. The largest sizes made...
  7. Matt S

    What did it take for trousers pleats to come back into fashion in the 1980s

    Pleats are as out of fashion now as they were in the 1970s. But then they came back in the 1980s. If we consider what was going in in America: Armani had a big role in that with Italian-style reverse pleats, but forward pleats came back then as well. I don't know if the popular return of...
  8. Matt S

    Top 10 shoes for people who don't have shoe "collections"

    For those of us who don’t have the luxury of being able to have the large shoe “collections” of some people here, what would be your top 10 shoes? This can either be the top 10 shoes you have, or the top 10 shoes you feel your shoe wardrobe must have. This list should exclude...
  9. Matt S

    Jos. A. Bank on Saturday Night Live

    You probably have to be in America to watch this, but we're not the only ones who make fun of them: https://www.hulu.com/watch/615358
  10. Matt S

    Keeping blue shirts blue

    After seeing the thread on keeping white shirts white, I personally have a biggest problem with blue shirts. At the collar fold, at the top of the chest below the chest and at the fold of my double cuffs the shirts either fade to yellow or turn pink. How do I prevent this from happening? These...
  11. Matt S

    Darted-front trousers

    What do you think about trousers with a dart in front? Savile Row tailors and high-end Italian makers often put darts in the front of their flat front trousers. The darts curve the front, so they aren't "flat" fronts, but they don't have pleats. I like them because they give me the extra...
  12. Matt S

    Odd Jackets for the Evening

    I find that often when I go out in the evening a suit and tie would make me overdressed, but an odd jacket worn with an open neck shirt is right for my purposes. The only one I have that I think really works well at night is the navy blazer. I'd like to have something else that works well in the...
  13. Matt S

    Less typical and unusual, but classic, styles and details

    What do you think of less typical—but classic—styles and details in your clothes? Things like: -ticket pockets -hacking pockets -lapels on waistcoats -single-button suit jackets Or more unusual details like: -gauntlet (turnback) cuffs on suit jackets, overcoats or dinner jackets -flapped...
  14. Matt S

    Altering a jacket for sloped shoulders

    Is it possible or practical? My father has very sloped shoulders, as well as a stooped posture, and I've never seen a jacket that fits him well. The back is always a mess and the collar always stands away at the neck. The standing away at the neck can be fixed by shortening the collar, but the...
  15. Matt S

    What is "Slim Fit"?

    What does it actually mean? I remember in the mid-2000's when I started seeing that term everywhere for suits. It meant a less baggy fit than the normal one that better fit slimmer than average people. It was a suit jacket with more shape and a higher button stance, and it came with...
  16. Matt S

    Proper suit fit vs. style preference

    I've been seeing some people argue that the "shrunken look" that's popular in fashion today is not a poor fit but rather just a style preference. And what many of us consider to be a perfect fit is old-fashioned. Many probably said the same about the baggy suits that were popular 20-25 years...
  17. Matt S

    Do you prefer non-iron shirts or luxury shirts

    Regardless of whether or not you wear non-iron shirts, and if price were not an issue, would you rather wear non-iron-treated cotton shirts from Brooks Brothers or luxurious high thread-count cotton shirts from a maker along the lines of Charvet, Turnbull & Asser, Borrelli or our own Alexander...
  18. Matt S

    Suiting: What does it mean?

    I understand "suiting" to mean a cloth that can be made into a suit. Lately I've seen the term "suiting" used to as a plural of "suit." The New York Times featured an article about summer suits last week, and here's a sentence that uses the word "suiting" as a plural: "But he added that subtly...
  19. Matt S

    Sports coats for the city

    It's really easy to wear business suits in the city and sports coats in the country, but the most I can get away with at my city job are sports coats. What are good sports coat cloths for the city? I'm trying to avoid ones that are predominantly brown-toned (though a little brown in it is fine)...
  20. Matt S

    Is black a flattering colour

    JDC and I are having a discussion about whether or not black is flattering to most complexions here, but I think it needs it's own thread. While black is flattering in that it is slimming, is it flattering to many complexions? As far as seasons are concerned, only winter people supposedly look...