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  1. Tim Correll

    Wool/Mohair Blend Suits

    Are wool/mohair blend suits appropriate for more somber occasions (such as job interviews and the workplace)? When I buy my first bespoke suit, I’m looking at a 71% worsted wool/29% mohair blend solid suit fabric from Vitale Barberis Canonico. The fabric is 320 grams and it’s described as an...
  2. Tim Correll

    Jacket And Waistcoat Inquiries

    I know that many jackets for warm weather are unlined in the rear interior and each side of the front interior as it wears much cooler provided the shell fabric is cooler wearing. Of course, such jackets are still fully lined in the sleeves as they would be hard to put on and take off without...
  3. Tim Correll

    Pants Cut For No Belt And No Suspenders

    Has anybody on here ever bought bespoke or made to measure and had suit pants or odd pants made where they were cut for no belt and no suspenders? I know side adjusters are a must and a rear adjuster is strongly recommended with such pants. What are the balance, comfort, fit and drape like...
  4. Tim Correll

    CAD System For Internet

    Does anybody on here know how to obtain a computer aided design (CAD) system for computers? Can they also be installed on iPads and smart phones? I need this system for various reasons (among them for the eventual purchase of 2 bespoke shirts and a bespoke suit). This technology is actually...
  5. Tim Correll

    Crockett & Jones Lines Of Shoes

    What’s the difference between Crockett & Jones’ Benchgrade line and their Handgrade? I’m guessing Handgrade has more handwork, higher quality handwork and machine work, better leathers and more shoe models. That’s just a guess (I could be wrong). I know both lines are available specially made...
  6. Tim Correll

    Benjamin Klemann Shoes

    I heard about this shoemaker on this website several years ago. He was listed in the thread about bespoke shoemakers. I went to their website over the weekend and their shoes were very nice (just as nice as the Japanese shoes in the thread about Japanese shoes). Does anybody on here have any...
  7. Tim Correll

    Vest Questions

    Does a vest with a full back take longer to make than a vest with a partial back (sometimes call backless, which is no back other than around the neck and waist)? Also, is a vest with a full back a faux pas for black tie, morning dress, stroller dress and white tie and tails?
  8. Tim Correll

    Double Breasted Coat Questions

    Is it a faux pas to have hacking pockets on a double breasted coat? Or, it is acceptable? My question excludes full and semi formal double breasted coats as hacking pockets are a faux pax on all full and semi formal coats.
  9. Tim Correll

    Nicholas Templeman

    Has anybody used this bespoke shoemaker? The employees at Savile Row tailor Steed swear by them but I haven’t heard anything about them otherwise.
  10. Tim Correll

    Coat Questions

    Can a coat have a hand padded collar and machine padded lapels or vice versa? Or, do both have to be padded by hand or by machine? In countless pictures and videos, I’ve only seen both by hand or both by machine but never one by hand and the other by machine.
  11. Tim Correll

    Pinpoint Versus Poplin Formality

    Between these two weaves in a shirt, which is more formal? I know both are more formal than Oxford and cavalry twill (or whatever you call a more bold twill in a shirt) but less formal than Marcella pique, Foile broadcloth, regular broadcloth and fine twill.
  12. Tim Correll

    Questions About Custom Shirt Makers

    Do all bespoke and made to measure shirtmakers make pocket squares if the client wants them to do so? I would like to have three bespoke or made to measure shirts (one white and two light blue) made for me at some point and I would like to have two matching pocket squares made with each shirt.
  13. Tim Correll

    Question About Tailors

    This may seem like a strange question, but is there a minimum height requirement that tailors (or for that matter, any bespoke or made to measure clothing and shoe maker) has to serve a potential client? I would think that those under 5' can't be served because there's not enough, for lack of a...
  14. Tim Correll

    Questions About Socks

    I know this is going to be very specific (maybe even somewhat obsessive compulsive disorder). But here it is. I would like to buy dress socks that are 10 to 25% spandex and 75 to 90% cotton. If I ever have any use for formal wear, I would like to buy formal socks that are 10 to 25% spandex and...
  15. Tim Correll

    Lauren Ralph Lauren Cuts

    I know the Silver Label and White Label Lauren Ralph Lauren lines are a soft and light Euro cut (Neapolitan Italian or something similar). But what American cut is the Green Label line? Brooks Brothers style, Hartmarx style or in between? I'm asking these questions because I've owned a...
  16. Tim Correll

    Fabric weight

    I have questions about fabric weight for suits and similar garments (such as Blazers and odd pants) that are not outerwear. I know that light weight ranges from 180 to 295 grams (6 to 9.5 ounces), with 300 to 385 grams (10 to 12.5 ounces) being medium weight and 480+ grams (16+ ounces) being...
  17. Tim Correll

    LS Men's Clothing

    I hear nothing but the most wonderful things about this clothing maker in NYC in Midtown Manhattan on all of the fashion and style message boards. But I do have a few questions about LS Men's Clothing. How much customizing can they do? Is it the same as a bespoke tailor (virtually unlimited)...
  18. Tim Correll

    White Tie

    I know that a white solid pique cotton vest matching the shirt and tie (with the tailcoat and pants matching each other, of course) is the most proper vest for white tie. A few years ago, I saw on the news that in Italy, a soldier was being honored for some heroic act in combat. There was a...
  19. Tim Correll

    Something's Wrong With The Dugdale Brothers & Company Website

    Everytime I try to go on this website, it asks me for a username and password (both of which I have yet to have for this website). I've never had any problems whatsoever getting onto this website. Is anybody else on AAAC having these problems or any other problems with the Dugdale Brothers &...