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Ask a Trad Question & Get Answer: Quick Q&A

2M views 7K replies 780 participants last post by  Vecchio Vespa 
#1 ·
Is this Trad? What does OCBD mean? No need to start a (new and possibly redundant) thread on it, just ask it here for a quick answer.

At the suggestion of one of our esteemed members we are starting this thread (in emulation of one in a forum far, far away) in hopes of encouraging newbies (or even forum veterans) to ask questions in good faith and get good faith answers. That means no intentionally goofball questions and give actual serious answers.
 
#7,024 ·
In years past, Brooks used to temporarily remove some shoes from the website just prior to a sale. The unlined cordovan loafers being one such example.

The workaround would be to put the shoes in your cart prior to the item being removed from the site. I have not tried this tactic anytime in the last few years though. It's possible Brooks may now have a more sophisticated means to exclude items from sales. I'd say it's worth a try.
 
#7,019 ·
I've never had or (I think) seen a pair. Other than ties, most items I've seen that have silk in them are blends - silk with wool, cotton or linen or some combination of those.

My assumption - never thought that much about it 'till your question - is that silk is too "fine" to be the only material in pants, a suit, etc., so it is usually blended with more substantial materials when used in those type of items to provide structure, drape and durability.

That said, many AAAC members like @Matt S know a lot more about this than I do, so hopefully they'll post as well.
 
#7,027 ·
Unfortunately the shoes I had my eye on aren't included in todays sale.

On a related note, what are the forums feelings on black velvet slippers worn with a tuxedo?
Anyone know who makes the Brooks versions? Can anyone comment on their fit & finish?
They appear to have a very square toe...
 
#7,028 ·
I recently picked up a J. Press suit on Ebay. Unfortunately, it's a 42L and I'm more of a 41/42R. I'm trying to determine if it's worth taking to a tailor, here's my holdup:

Assuming all else can be tailored well, how low is it acceptable for the bottom button to be? The top (functional) button is about 1.5 inches above my navel, which I think is good, but the bottom button is slightly below the waistline of the pants (which also have a very high rise).

I'm thinking about posting photos later to get more information about all the possible alterations I'm considering. Thanks!
 
#7,029 ·
I recently picked up a J. Press suit on Ebay. Unfortunately, it's a 42L and I'm more of a 41/42R. I'm trying to determine if it's worth taking to a tailor, here's my holdup:

Assuming all else can be tailored well, how low is it acceptable for the bottom button to be? The top (functional) button is about 1.5 inches above my navel, which I think is good, but the bottom button is slightly below the waistline of the pants (which also have a very high rise).

I'm thinking about posting photos later to get more information about all the possible alterations I'm considering. Thanks!
Yes--Please post photos. We'll need to see how the suit looks on you in order to give you advice that is worth anything. What's "acceptable"? Objective "rules" are useful only up to a point; ultimately, the answer is determined by how something looks on you and only you.
 
#7,031 ·
Since mine are unlined, I wear them with a heavy sock and think they look great and do well on DRY winter days.

In the winter, I'll wear them with jeans, cords or chinos.

I do have a pair of fleece-lined ones that I wear on really, really cold days.

I like the look of the ones you showed - whose are they?
 
#7,034 ·
It is normal in the store I like a lot of boots, find beautiful, but then when I try them on the foot and look in the mirror do not like anything?
It seems strange, too big and clumsy when I see them in the mirror, in this case the desert boots sand that I posted on top ...
I was undecided at the store but I didn't buy them.
 
#7,035 ·
It seems that you don't like the look of them on your foot. That might be because you are not use to them, so, if the price isn't too painful for your budget, you might just have to take the plunge, buy them and see what you think after you wear them a bunch of times.

Sometime that works well and you end up loving the item and sometimes it doesn't and, to be honest, the money is wasted. For some things, the only way to learn is through trial and error.
 
#7,039 ·
I think this might help you (link to full article at bottom):

Brooks Brothers shirt fit guide
Brooks Brothers shirts have six different fits and updated their range in the summer of 2019. A fit guide describing the different fits is below.

  • Traditional Fit - Brooks Brothers' widest cut around the chest and waist. It's the widest available shirt I have found and is much larger than any other brand I have measured. Compared to the Regent Fit, the Traditional Fit is five inches larger in the chest and five inches larger in the waist. These shirts are 100% cotton.
  • Madison Fit (was called Regular). This shirt is still relatively wide compared to other brands. Compared to the Regent Fit, it is cut 2.5 inches wider around the chest and 3.25 inches wider through the waist.These shirts are 100% cotton.
  • Regent Fit (was called Slim Fit). The best selling Brooks Brothers fit, fitted through the chest and body.These shirts are 100% cotton.
  • Milano Fit (was called Extra Slim Fit) was the slimmest Brooks Brothers cut until the Soho arrived. Compared to the Regent Fit, this is 2.75 inches narrower through the chest and 1.5 inches slimmer through the waist.These shirts are 100% cotton.
  • Soho Fit - this was launched in the summer of 2019 and is now the slimmest of the Brooks Brothers range. Compared to the Regent Fit, this is 5 inches narrower through the chest and 5 inches narrower through the waist. These shirts are not 100% cotton. Instead they are 64% cotton, 32% coolmax polyester and 4% elastane.
  • Big and Tall - this range was also launched in the summer of 2019. The shirts are available in collar sizes from 16.5 inches to 20 inches. The shirts are cut a little slimmer than the Traditional Fit. These are 100% cotton.
 
#7,043 ·
Hello from Australia, my name is James and I am a fan of traditional US tailoring. I have my eye on a Pendleton tweed jacket, which is a western style, with a suede shoulder yoke. Does anyone know if this an be unpicked and removed(I have a good tailor) and if so, is the fabric underneath the same as the rest of the garment, I am guessing it is. I think one issue might be the material underneath the yoke maybe a slightly different shade, given it wasn't exposed to the light and wear. Any thoughts, Thankyou James.
 
#7,044 ·
Hello from Australia, my name is James and I am a fan of traditional US tailoring. I have my eye on a Pendleton tweed jacket, which is a western style, with a suede shoulder yoke. Does anyone know if this an be unpicked and removed(I have a good tailor) and if so, is the fabric underneath the same as the rest of the garment, I am guessing it is. I think one issue might be the material underneath the yoke maybe a slightly different shade, given it wasn't exposed to the light and wear. Any thoughts, Thankyou James.
My advice would be to pass on the purchase of the shirt, if you can't live with the yoke. I don't care how good the tailor is, removing the yoke is going to show! Sorry. ;)
 
#7,051 ·
They wear the same, the collar style is completely up to you. Unless youre wearing a harrington with nazi symbols I wouldnt worry about it. Any article of clothing can have a negative connotation to someone somewhere.

Though if you plan to pair it with chinos, I would avoid tan. This assumes your chinos are a similar color. Ive heard of the 'Canadian tuxedo' with denim jacket over jeans, what kind of 'tuxedo' is khaki over khaki?
 
#7,052 ·
To your first question, either would be fine worn regularly with chinos and a v-neck sweater. They both have a similar level of casualness. You should choose based on which ever one you prefer as both jackets really serve the same purpose in a wardrobe

The Harrington has a long history of being a jacket worn by the general public - and certainly got a boost when worn by stars such as Steve McQueen. I have no idea if it has any meaning on the extreme right, but it is, again, a jacket that has been and still is worn by the general public.
 
#7,058 ·
This question is not specifically “trad”, but it involves a J Press suit, and there is no similar sticky thread on the fashion forum...

I was wondering opinions on wearing a tan suit for an early evening event in July. It’s a happy socially distanced ceremony in a church and will be from 5:30-6:30, over and gone before sunset. Is this a fashion faux pas? The suit is 12 years old but barely worn, and I’ve been looking for a chance to break it out again.
 
#7,059 ·
I was wondering opinions on wearing a tan suit for an early evening event in July. It's a happy socially distanced ceremony in a church and will be from 5:30-6:30, over and gone before sunset. Is this a fashion faux pas? The suit is 12 years old but barely worn, and I've been looking for a chance to break it out again.
What is the ceremony? Do you know the other men who will be there? If you do, are they the "dress-up" type?
 
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