Ask a Trad Question & Get Answer: Quick Q&A

Fading Fast

Connoisseur
Nice call. Nothing beats a herringbone jacket, an OCBD, flannels, and a wool challis neat!

Could not agree more. My guess, most of us posting in the Trad forum get that same indescribable feeling from wearing classic Ivy / American clothes.

It is in the high 40s, overcast and threatening rain in NYC today, so I have on a pair of heavy khakis, thick Fair Isle socks, Sperry Chukkas, a heavy OCBD, Woolrich sweater and LL Bean rain slicker (long-jacket length) and couldn't love the feel of my clothes more.

There's something so - to me - authentic, real, basic, practical, timeless, comforting about them. They just make me feel good. That's it - I wear them because they make me that happy.
 
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sogno

New Member
At the moment I don't own a long coat to wear over my suit and sportcoats and I need one.
I noticed this tan guncheck coat by abercrombie

https://www.abercrombie.com/shop/us...9792&cjevent=7c39500bec1f11e880f300090a18050c

I really like the design and the price is fair. It can definetely work worn casually with jeans, cords and chinos and a sweater, but
do you think that coat would work over a navy suit? Or over a sportcoat and dress pants outfit?Or it's too casual?

ps do you think that colour would work with medium to light grey ( flannel dress pants)?
 

Charles Dana

Honors Member
I noticed this tan guncheck coat by abercrombie. I really like the design and the price is fair. It can definetely work worn casually with jeans, cords and chinos and a sweater.

I agree.

do you think that coat would work over a navy suit?

I generally would not wear it with a navy suit because of the discord between the sporty character of the coat and the serious, understated nature of the suit. If the occasion and venue call for a navy suit, then I would be reluctant to wear that coat with it. You could go ahead and do it--it wouldn't violate any natural or man-made laws, and you wouldn't get arrested. But that coat would be far from the best choice with a navy suit.

Or over a sportcoat and dress pants outfit?

The overcoat would work well with a sport coat and solid-color trousers, provided the overcoat and sport coat don't have clashing patterns.

ps do you think that colour would work with medium to light grey ( flannel dress pants)?

Yes. Most patterns and colors work in harmony with solid, medium-to-light-grey flannel.
 
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Vecchio Vespa

(aka TKI67)
If I were buying a topcoat to wear with a navy suit I’d pick a solid color and have it long enough to come below my knee, even though current fashion seems to favor a shorter coat. I like a single row of buttons. My color preference if I wanted a bit more versatility, would be camel.
 

sogno

New Member
I agree.



I generally would not wear it with a navy suit because of the discord between the sporty character of the coat and the serious, understated nature of the suit. If the occasion and venue call for a navy suit, then I would be reluctant to wear that coat with it. You could go ahead and do it--it wouldn't violate any natural or man-made laws, and you wouldn't get arrested. But that coat would be far from the best choice with a navy suit.



The overcoat would work well with a sport coat and solid-color trousers, provided the overcoat and sport coat don't have clashing patterns.



Yes. Most patterns and colors work in harmony with solid, medium-to-light-grey flannel.
Thank you for your help.
Yes, I suspected the coat wouldn't be the perfect match with a navy suit.
I want a versatile coat I could wear casually with jeans and cords and that I could wear with a suit or sportcoat and pants. I don't really care about the pairing with the navy suit since I wear suits very rarely ( like once every 2 years). So my main focus is wearing this coat with jeans and chinos and with a blazer and pants ( that I wear more often than suits). I will wear the overcoat with a navy suit even tho I realize it is not ideal, as you suggested. I can't justify buying an overcoat just to wear it with suits or sportcoats since it is rare I do so.
Atleast i can wear this overcoat with everything even if it is not ideal with suits.
I also believe patterned coats like the gun check work better casually ( with jeans, corduroys and chinos) compared to solid navy or grey overcoats.
At the moment I have a solid navy sportcoat and brown herringbone tweed so I think the pairing with the overcoat in terms of pattern should be fine.

I'm still not convinced about the colours pairing of the tan overcoat with medium or light grey pants, but I will see when I have the overcoat in hand.

Abercrombie makes an identical coat in a grey herringbone. I think the grey is more versatile in theory but I think this gun check is jauntier. I also don't think it would pair nicely with grey pants.

https://www.abercrombie.com/shop/eu...11767819?categoryId=84950&seq=01&faceout=prod

Edit: the grey overcoat is a wool blend, the gun check is 100% wool
 
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Charles Dana

Honors Member
I'm still not convinced about the colours pairing of the tan overcoat with medium or light grey pants, but I will see when I have the overcoat in hand.

Probably a lot of people think that tan and medium/light grey don't work well together. But then the more people think about colors, and the more experience they get in coordinating colors, the more likely they are to conclude that, contrary to their early intuition, tan and gray do complement each other very well.

Expand those horizons.

Abercrombie makes an identical coat in a grey herringbone. I also don't think it would pair nicely with grey pants.

I agree, unless the pants are charcoal grey--but even then, that might be too much grey.
 

New Old Stock

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
From what I gather, when it comes to flannel trousers, 'Mid Grey' is the standard.
What about the standard grey flannel suit? Where does that fall on the greyscale?
 

Charles Dana

Honors Member
From what I gather, when it comes to flannel trousers, 'Mid Grey' is the standard.
What about the standard grey flannel suit? Where does that fall on the greyscale?

I don't think the term "standard grey flannel suit" has any one objective definition. If it does, I'm not aware of it. To me, I guess "standard" here means that the flannel is darker than mid-grey but lighter than dark/charcoal grey. I think that would be the color that would be most versatile during the day in an office where the dress code still requires suits.

Of course, if you're a suit-wearing guy, it would be advisable to also have grey suits that are darker--much darker--and perhaps one that is lighter as well--for the sake of variety and depending on the venue and the reason you're wearing the suit.

Since the advent of "business casual," the term "standard grey flannel suit" (if such a term really exists) has probably gotten seriously diluted. Then again, I could be deluded.
 
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Fading Fast

Connoisseur
From what I gather, when it comes to flannel trousers, 'Mid Grey' is the standard.
What about the standard grey flannel suit? Where does that fall on the greyscale?

Pics from 1956's "The Man in the Grey Flannel Suit." Shame the color is inconsistent in the pics, but I'd say they, overall, argue for a mid-grey. Filmed right in the middle of Ivy's and the grey-flannel-suit's heyday.
419DNSSS2AL._SY445_.jpg
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images-21.jpeg
51SMiIeMHzL.jpg
 

Vecchio Vespa

(aka TKI67)
Thank you Mr. Dana! Looking through some old Brooks & J.Press catalogs from the late 70s / early 80s most of the flannels are listed as "Cambridge Grey".



Never!
Yes! IIRC that age had far fewer shades of grey. In the realm of flannel there Cambridge and Oxford. There was more variation in worsted. The accelerated proliferation of other shades seemed to occur in the 1980s.
 

Vecchio Vespa

(aka TKI67)
What clothes and colors can I combine with this scarf? I bought it to wear with my Barbour coat, but I wanted to wear it with other clothes too
That’s a wonderful scarf. Today I was in olive cords, a chambray shirt, and snuff suede LHSs. Ten degrees cooler, and that scarf would have worked great. I also see it with a camel jacket, a blue OCBD, and a navy challis neat tie. It also looks as if it might work with some rust cords or a brick madder neat tie. It definitely plays well with all manner of blue shirtings IMO. I could also see it with yellow or ecru. And then a pink OCBD goes with almost anything.

;0)
 

TDWat

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
What clothes and colors can I combine with this scarf? I bought it to wear with my Barbour coat, but I wanted to wear it with other clothes too
If I'm wearing a scarf I generally don't color coordinate it at all. Since it's outwear that tends to go with a coat that covers everything else up I don't know that it really needs to match anything.
 

LewisDias

New Member
That’s a wonderful scarf. Today I was in olive cords, a chambray shirt, and snuff suede LHSs. Ten degrees cooler, and that scarf would have worked great. I also see it with a camel jacket, a blue OCBD, and a navy challis neat tie. It also looks as if it might work with some rust cords or a brick madder neat tie. It definitely plays well with all manner of blue shirtings IMO. I could also see it with yellow or ecru. And then a pink OCBD goes with almost anything.

;0)


If I'm wearing a scarf I generally don't color coordinate it at all. Since it's outwear that tends to go with a coat that covers everything else up I don't know that it really needs to match anything.


I like to wear it with my Barbour coat, but in fact in the accessories like a scarf I like to add some color, to the winter outfit. This scarf in a dark winter outfit, will look even darker and boring..
 

Vecchio Vespa

(aka TKI67)
Would you wear a bow tie with crew neck LL Bean Norwegian sweater? If so, what patterns?
I wouldn’t, but if one were to do so I’d go with something like a deep, not bright, red madder or challis to contrast with the blue and white, maybe a smallish one with pointed ends, not a butterfly.
 
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