Ask a Trad Question & Get Answer: Quick Q&A

[Eligius]

This question is not specifically “trad”, but it involves a J Press suit, and there is no similar sticky thread on the fashion forum...

I was wondering opinions on wearing a tan suit for an early evening event in July. It’s a happy socially distanced ceremony in a church and will be from 5:30-6:30, over and gone before sunset. Is this a fashion faux pas? The suit is 12 years old but barely worn, and I’ve been looking for a chance to break it out again.

 

[Charles Dana]

I was wondering opinions on wearing a tan suit for an early evening event in July. It’s a happy socially distanced ceremony in a church and will be from 5:30-6:30, over and gone before sunset. Is this a fashion faux pas? The suit is 12 years old but barely worn, and I’ve been looking for a chance to break it out again.

What is the ceremony? Do you know the other men who will be there? If you do, are they the “dress-up” type?

 

[Peak and Pine]

I was wondering opinions on wearing a tan suit for an early evening event in July. It’s a happy socially distanced ceremony in a church.

What is the ceremony? Do you know the other men who will be there? If you do, are they the “dress-up” type?

I think the question may be about the color. And the hour worn. If so, tan in warm weather daylight (in tropic wool, cotton, blends and linen) are pretty much standard fare for dress-up among a certain set here in New England, the dwindling set who gives a damn.

 

[OldMetairie]

This question is not specifically “trad”, but it involves a J Press suit, and there is no similar sticky thread on the fashion forum...

I was wondering opinions on wearing a tan suit for an early evening event in July. It’s a happy socially distanced ceremony in a church and will be from 5:30-6:30, over and gone before sunset. Is this a fashion faux pas? The suit is 12 years old but barely worn, and I’ve been looking for a chance to break it out again.

Simply answer no this would not be a faux pas imho.

 

[Eligius]

Yes, I was wondering about the color at that time of day. It's tropical wool, should be very warm and still light out. Thank you all so much for your responses.

 

[GregorSamsa]

Any recommendations for mostly cotton socks in colors like dark green? I’d like to expand my color options beyond black and blue but don’t know where to turn.

 

[Fading Fast]

Any recommendations for mostly cotton socks in colors like dark green? I’d like to expand my color options beyond black and blue but don’t know where to turn.

For dress socks, it's been awhile as I bought a lot years ago and now with WFH (I've done that for years) and biz casual, I rarely wear them, but I used to like Brooks Brothers for dress socks: https://www.brooksbrothers.com/mens/underwear-socks/0226,default,sc.html?lid=leftnav-menu

You might also check out J.Press https://jpressonline.com/collections/underwear-socks

And, only on sale, Ben Silver and Paul Stuart have some fantastic socks:
https://www.bensilver.com/Socks.html

https://www.paulstuart.com/mens/accessories/socks

For casual, I like https://www.wigwam.com love the "Cypress" model

For working out / hiking, I like https://www.smartwool.com/shop/mens-wool-socks-1

I also like LL Bean socks: https://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/502...VdQiICR1dSQRjEAAYAiAAEgI_i_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[GregorSamsa]

Thank you for that very helpful reply. I have never really put much thought into socks before now—never paid anything close to north of $20 per pair—but after looking at Press and Ben Silver I am tempted. I saw O’Connell’s has some all cotton socks in a similar price range too. It looks like I’ll have to pay up for these colors and high cotton percentage.

 

[Fading Fast]

Thank you for that very helpful reply. I have never really put much thought into socks before now—never paid anything close to north of $20 per pair—but after looking at Press and Ben Silver I am tempted. I saw O’Connell’s has some all cotton socks in a similar price range too. It looks like I’ll have to pay up for these colors and high cotton percentage.

It's been awhile since I've bought socks as I kept "stocking up" at sales till I discovered that I owned way too many. But other than the, like you, sub $20 (or there about) socks, I would buy my socks on sale. Good luck.

 

[never behind]

Thank you for that very helpful reply. I have never really put much thought into socks before now—never paid anything close to north of $20 per pair—but after looking at Press and Ben Silver I am tempted. I saw O’Connell’s has some all cotton socks in a similar price range too. It looks like I’ll have to pay up for these colors and high cotton percentage.

You might look at Dapper Classics. I’ve bought a couple pair from them and found the socks to be acceptable. They have an insane number of options.

 

[August West]

Any recommendations for mostly cotton socks in colors like dark green? I’d like to expand my color options beyond black and blue but don’t know where to turn.

I have had very good recent experience with Banana Republic socks. Sales are perpetual, so you need not pay anything close to full freight.

Up until several years ago I bought all of my socks from Brooks without a second thought. The quality became so inconsistent I gave up.

 

[fishertw]

Yes, I was wondering about the color at that time of day. It's tropical wool, should be very warm and still light out. Thank you all so much for your responses.

These days if you show upon a suit it is an utmost sign of respect for the event. My bet is that most will not.

 

[ztrad5]

Hi all,
Just discovered this great forum.
I am building my trad wardrobe.
So far I have a J Press Navy Blazer and some Brooks Brother's OCBDs.
Is the next acquisition a Camel Hair Sportcoat or a Tweed Sportcoat?
For Tweed, what is the one staple piece, the gray herringbone pattern?
Also, I noticed most of the sack suits are cut too generously for my frame. Do you recommend trying to find a trim fit on J Press or just sizing one down?
Thanks!

 

[TKI67]

Hi all,
Just discovered this great forum.
I am building my trad wardrobe.
So far I have a J Press Navy Blazer and some Brooks Brother's OCBDs.
Is the next acquisition a Camel Hair Sportcoat or a Tweed Sportcoat?
For Tweed, what is the one staple piece, the gray herringbone pattern?
Also, I noticed most of the sack suits are cut too generously for my frame. Do you recommend trying to find a trim fit on J Press or just sizing one down?
Thanks!

IMO after snagging a NBB (Navy blue blazer) I would go for tweed next. Grey herringbone is far and away the most popular choice, but I would not feel constrained by it. If you see a glen plaid or olive herringbone or tan barleycorn you like a lot, go for it.

As regards slight builds and sack suits, the combination is a stylistic departure for some, but to a Trad of the TNSIL (traditional natural shoulder ivy league) sort, it is a lovely combination.

 

[Fading Fast]

Hi all,
Just discovered this great forum.
I am building my trad wardrobe.
So far I have a J Press Navy Blazer and some Brooks Brother's OCBDs.
Is the next acquisition a Camel Hair Sportcoat or a Tweed Sportcoat?
For Tweed, what is the one staple piece, the gray herringbone pattern?
Also, I noticed most of the sack suits are cut too generously for my frame. Do you recommend trying to find a trim fit on J Press or just sizing one down?
Thanks!

Hi and welcome.

There are no absolute right answers to your questions, but here are my thoughts.

As to your next sport coat, I'd go with a herringbone tweed in grey as I find it to be almost as versatile as - and a nice compliment to - the navy blazer. To be sure, if your wardrobe leans heavily to earth tones, you might prefer a brown or tan herringbone tweed, but the grey really covers a lot of ground.

I'm tall and thin and, like you, prefer a more fitted look than the classic sack cut as the sack can look too big on me. @TKI67 is correct that part of it is getting used to a different fit, but still, my frame (and maybe yours) is not the best for a sack.

What I've done is, first, always make sure the jacket fits properly in the shoulder; otherwise, it will never really look well tailored. Second, a good tailor can "trim" the silhouette of a sack a bit, so that might be enough for you. Hence, I'd be really careful about "sizing down" as the driver of your decision when purchasing a sport coat or suit jacket should be if the shoulders fit and if it's long enough as those things, basically, can't be adjusted.

Another approach, which I take because it greatly increases my options, is to go with any sport coat that has near natural shoulders and not worry about it being a sack. If most of its features are classic sport coat, then the darts don't bother me and I get a much better fit.

In our internet age, until you find the manufacturer and fit that works for you, I suggest, where possible, going in person as stores like Press, at least the NYC one, will honestly tell you if something can be altered to fit. Of course, you can always order online, take it to a trusted tailor and return if he says it's a no go.

I know in years past, Press has had a trim fit sport coat, but I didn't see it in this year's sport coat offerings. If you want to do something inexpensive just to get started, J.Crew offers some nice natural shoulder (but darted and double vented) sport coats for very reasonable prices (especially on one of its regular sales). I own several and, while they are not as nice as the Press, Polo or O'Connell's ones, for example, for the money, they are great "knock around" sport coats.

Good luck, glad you've joined our forum.

 

[TKI67]

Hi all,
Just discovered this great forum.
I am building my trad wardrobe.
So far I have a J Press Navy Blazer and some Brooks Brother's OCBDs.
Is the next acquisition a Camel Hair Sportcoat or a Tweed Sportcoat?
For Tweed, what is the one staple piece, the gray herringbone pattern?
Also, I noticed most of the sack suits are cut too generously for my frame. Do you recommend trying to find a trim fit on J Press or just sizing one down?
Thanks!

Oh, and welcome aboard!!!

 

[FiscalDean]

Hi and welcome.


Another approach, which I take because it greatly increases my options, is to go with any sport coat that has near natural shoulders and not worry about it being a sack. If most of its features are classic sport coat, then the darts don't bother me and I get a much better fit.

IMHO, the shoulders are key. There are a lot of coats that have very natural shoulders that are subtly darted. For me, the darts are not a deal breaker. However, pleated pants are always a deal breaker.

 

[ztrad5]

Hi and welcome.

There are no absolute right answers to your questions, but here are my thoughts.

As to your next sport coat, I'd go with a herringbone tweed in grey as I find it to be almost as versatile as - and a nice compliment to - the navy blazer. To be sure, if your wardrobe leans heavily to earth tones, you might prefer a brown or tan herringbone tweed, but the grey really covers a lot of ground.

I'm tall and thin and, like you, prefer a more fitted look than the classic sack cut as the sack can look too big on me. @TKI67 is correct that part of it is getting used to a different fit, but still, my frame (and maybe yours) is not the best for a sack.

What I've done is, first, always make sure the jacket fits properly in the shoulder; otherwise, it will never really look well tailored. Second, a good tailor can "trim" the silhouette of a sack a bit, so that might be enough for you. Hence, I'd be really careful about "sizing down" as the driver of your decision when purchasing a sport coat or suit jacket should be if the shoulders fit and if it's long enough as those things, basically, can't be adjusted.

Another approach, which I take because it greatly increases my options, is to go with any sport coat that has near natural shoulders and not worry about it being a sack. If most of its features are classic sport coat, then the darts don't bother me and I get a much better fit.

In our internet age, until you find the manufacturer and fit that works for you, I suggest, where possible, going in person as stores like Press, at least the NYC one, will honestly tell you if something can be altered to fit. Of course, you can always order online, take it to a trusted tailor and return if he says it's a no go.

I know in years past, Press has had a trim fit sport coat, but I didn't see it in this year's sport coat offerings. If you want to do something inexpensive just to get started, J.Crew offers some nice natural shoulder (but darted and double vented) sport coats for very reasonable prices (especially on one of its regular sales). I own several and, while they are not as nice as the Press, Polo or O'Connell's ones, for example, for the money, they are great "knock around" sport coats.

Good luck, glad you've joined our forum.

Thanks so much for everyone's warm welcome and advice.

We must have very similar frames based on your comments. I tried the J Press trim fit 36 and it was too narrow in the shoulders. The 38 trim fit was great in the shoulders but the non-darted sack part was too big. I had a tailor narrow the body down a bit like you suggested and it now fits great. I wish J Press had a bigger supply of 38 trim fit...I think I'm going to have to continue to go with Suit Supply since they fit great without any need for tailoring. Anyone know if O'Connell's carries a trim fit? Otherwise, I think it's just J Press trim fit and Brook Brothers Milano cut. I tried the Fitzgerald but it was too big.

 

[never behind]

Thanks so much for everyone's warm welcome and advice.

We must have very similar frames based on your comments. I tried the J Press trim fit 36 and it was too narrow in the shoulders. The 38 trim fit was great in the shoulders but the non-darted sack part was too big. I had a tailor narrow the body down a bit like you suggested and it now fits great. I wish J Press had a bigger supply of 38 trim fit...I think I'm going to have to continue to go with Suit Supply since they fit great without any need for tailoring. Anyone know if O'Connell's carries a trim fit? Otherwise, I think it's just J Press trim fit and Brook Brothers Milano cut. I tried the Fitzgerald but it was too big.

I don’t ever recall seeing trim fit sport coats at O’Connell’s. Only thing I can recall in trim fit are some polos.

 

[HanEyeAm]

Anyone know of Oakmont menswear? I assume it was exclusively for Thalhimers. I thrifted what I think is a half-lined, felted wool blazer and would like more info on the construction.