Ask a Trad Question & Get Answer: Quick Q&A

[ztrad5]

Hi and welcome.

There are no absolute right answers to your questions, but here are my thoughts.

As to your next sport coat, I'd go with a herringbone tweed in grey as I find it to be almost as versatile as - and a nice compliment to - the navy blazer. To be sure, if your wardrobe leans heavily to earth tones, you might prefer a brown or tan herringbone tweed, but the grey really covers a lot of ground.

I'm tall and thin and, like you, prefer a more fitted look than the classic sack cut as the sack can look too big on me. @TKI67 is correct that part of it is getting used to a different fit, but still, my frame (and maybe yours) is not the best for a sack.

What I've done is, first, always make sure the jacket fits properly in the shoulder; otherwise, it will never really look well tailored. Second, a good tailor can "trim" the silhouette of a sack a bit, so that might be enough for you. Hence, I'd be really careful about "sizing down" as the driver of your decision when purchasing a sport coat or suit jacket should be if the shoulders fit and if it's long enough as those things, basically, can't be adjusted.

Another approach, which I take because it greatly increases my options, is to go with any sport coat that has near natural shoulders and not worry about it being a sack. If most of its features are classic sport coat, then the darts don't bother me and I get a much better fit.

In our internet age, until you find the manufacturer and fit that works for you, I suggest, where possible, going in person as stores like Press, at least the NYC one, will honestly tell you if something can be altered to fit. Of course, you can always order online, take it to a trusted tailor and return if he says it's a no go.

I know in years past, Press has had a trim fit sport coat, but I didn't see it in this year's sport coat offerings. If you want to do something inexpensive just to get started, J.Crew offers some nice natural shoulder (but darted and double vented) sport coats for very reasonable prices (especially on one of its regular sales). I own several and, while they are not as nice as the Press, Polo or O'Connell's ones, for example, for the money, they are great "knock around" sport coats.

Good luck, glad you've joined our forum.

Thanks so much for everyone's warm welcome and advice.

We must have very similar frames based on your comments. I tried the J Press trim fit 36 and it was too narrow in the shoulders. The 38 trim fit was great in the shoulders but the non-darted sack part was too big. I had a tailor narrow the body down a bit like you suggested and it now fits great. I wish J Press had a bigger supply of 38 trim fit...I think I'm going to have to continue to go with Suit Supply since they fit great without any need for tailoring. Anyone know if O'Connell's carries a trim fit? Otherwise, I think it's just J Press trim fit and Brook Brothers Milano cut. I tried the Fitzgerald but it was too big.

 

[never behind]

Thanks so much for everyone's warm welcome and advice.

We must have very similar frames based on your comments. I tried the J Press trim fit 36 and it was too narrow in the shoulders. The 38 trim fit was great in the shoulders but the non-darted sack part was too big. I had a tailor narrow the body down a bit like you suggested and it now fits great. I wish J Press had a bigger supply of 38 trim fit...I think I'm going to have to continue to go with Suit Supply since they fit great without any need for tailoring. Anyone know if O'Connell's carries a trim fit? Otherwise, I think it's just J Press trim fit and Brook Brothers Milano cut. I tried the Fitzgerald but it was too big.

I don’t ever recall seeing trim fit sport coats at O’Connell’s. Only thing I can recall in trim fit are some polos.

 

[HanEyeAm]

Anyone know of Oakmont menswear? I assume it was exclusively for Thalhimers. I thrifted what I think is a half-lined, felted wool blazer and would like more info on the construction.

 

[ztrad5]

I don’t ever recall seeing trim fit sport coats at O’Connell’s. Only thing I can recall in trim fit are some polos.

I do see some 37R sizes on O'Connell's which is unique - do you think this may be a good compromise as a trim fit 38R? Otherwise, I am going to have to go MTM at Drinkwater's in Cambridge.

 

[never behind]

I do see some 37R sizes on O'Connell's which is unique - do you think this may be a good compromise as a trim fit 38R? Otherwise, I am going to have to go MTM at Drinkwater's in Cambridge.

Possibly. My advice would be to call O’Connell’s. They are great and can provide measurements to help you determine if it would work.

 

[Mike B]

I do see some 37R sizes on O'Connell's which is unique - do you think this may be a good compromise as a trim fit 38R? Otherwise, I am going to have to go MTM at Drinkwater's in Cambridge.

As a public service, here at the measurements of my 37R O'Connell's blazer (made by Hardwick).

O’Connell’s Classic navy blazer (37R)

Shoulder 17.5”

Chest 20.75”

Waist 19.5” (no taper)

Sleeve 24.75”

Length (BOC) 29.75” (from collar bottom not from collar seam)

Lapel 3.5”

I'm a tall, thin guy and this blazer is a nice (but slightly loose) fit. I think my best fit is a 37R jacket but I can get away with 36R or 38R depending on the brand and cut.

Amazingly I did not have this jacket altered at all (not even the sleeves!) and am happy with the fit. As I comment above, there is very little taper in the waist but that would be an easy adjustment.

 

[Fading Fast]

As a public service, here at the measurements of my 37R O'Connell's blazer (made by Hardwick).

O’Connell’s Classic navy blazer (37R)

Shoulder 17.5”

Chest 20.75”

Waist 19.5” (no taper)

Sleeve 24.75”

Length (BOC) 29.75” (from collar bottom not from collar seam)

Lapel 3.5”

I'm a tall, thin guy and this blazer is a nice (but slightly loose) fit. I think my best fit is a 37R jacket but I can get away with 36R or 38R depending on the brand and cut.

Amazingly I did not have this jacket altered at all (not even the sleeves!) and am happy with the fit. As I comment above, there is very little taper in the waist but that would be an easy adjustment.

It's very nice of you to post all this. I'm surprised a regular works for you as, usually, a tall person need a long cut. I've struggled with the same issue as the best overall fit for me is usually a 40L, but sometimes, if the jacket is cut large, a 39L would work better, but today, you rarely see 39Ls only 39Rs.

 

[ztrad5]

Thanks for posting those dimensions! My understanding is the # in front of the suit, such as 37, indicates a 37" circumference on the chest and then they add a couple inches for fit. Is 20.75" if you measure across the dimension of the jacket at the chest region rather than the circumference?

 

[Mike B]

My understanding is the # in front of the suit, such as 37, indicates a 37" circumference on the chest and then they add a couple inches for fit. Is 20.75" if you measure across the dimension of the jacket at the chest region rather than the circumference?

I measured across the front of the jacket to get 20.75".

It's very nice of you to post all this. I'm surprised a regular works for you as, usually, a tall person need a long cut. I've struggled with the same issue as the best overall fit for me is usually a 40L, but sometimes, if the jacket is cut large, a 39L would work better, but today, you rarely see 39Ls only 39Rs.

I've got narrow shoulders and chest so a 39 or 40 would be huge in both areas on me. For new OTR jackets I make a bit of a compromise in accepting a 'maybe not quite long enough' jacket in going with a 37 or 38 (most 36s are definitely too short).

I find that with vintage jackets the length is almost always appropriate for me in a size 38.

 

[fishertw]

Hi all,
Just discovered this great forum.
I am building my trad wardrobe.
So far I have a J Press Navy Blazer and some Brooks Brother's OCBDs.
Is the next acquisition a Camel Hair Sportcoat or a Tweed Sportcoat?
For Tweed, what is the one staple piece, the gray herringbone pattern?
Also, I noticed most of the sack suits are cut too generously for my frame. Do you recommend trying to find a trim fit on J Press or just sizing one down?
Thanks!

At this time, with Southwick going out of business, and their 3/2 Douglas model being an iconic gray herringbone, I’d go in that direction before a camel hair. O’connells still had some recently as did Cable Car in San Francisco. Not discounted, but I was advised in August by Oconnells that they would not be getting any more. As for Camel, I’ve worn the Brooks 3/2 for years and am holding on to the one I have as they did not even show that model last year before they filed for bankruptcy. Who knows what a revived BB will look like.

 

[DCarreira]

Good morning gentleman.

I have recently purchased a pants and vest combo but the store did not had the matching jacket to make it a 3 piece suit and I am thinking about what would be the best options to complete the look. This is a pic of me wearing it and a couple close-ups so you can see the pattern and material. It's a kind of flannel, not very formal and suitable for autumn/winter.

As a base layer it would go well with any white or dark shirt. Maybe with a denim shirt?

I am thinking I can wear both pieces separately pairing the vest with jeans or dark blue/grey chinos.

When using the combo a black/navy pea coat would be a good option, especially because I would just hang it when I get to the office. But what if I do want/need to use with a jacket? What would be a good jacket to complement this outfit?

Please share your thoughts on how to make the best out of this pieces. Thank you.
https://ibb.co/pXJfQ49
https://ibb.co/R32xBYC
https://ibb.co/LRrMJhv