Fading Fast

Connoisseur
Did you also go with O'Connells house brand for your poplin suits?
When I bought most of my poplins, '80s- early '00s, I didn't even know about O'Connells. Mine were mainly Haspel brand bought at department stores or Brooks Brothers' house brand.

One year, in the early '90s, in late September, Lord & Taylor's department store all but gave their poplin suits away on a season-ending sale (something like "2 for $99") and I bought four of them in one shot and, then, had to wait until late next spring to break them out, but it was a lot of fun.
 

TKI67

Elite Member
When I bought most of my poplins, '80s- early '00s, I didn't even know about O'Connells. Mine were mainly Haspel brand bought at department stores or Brooks Brothers' house brand.

One year, in the early '90s, in late September, Lord & Taylor's department store all but gave their poplin suits away on a season-ending sale (something like "2 for $99") and I bought four of them in one shot and, then, had to wait until late next spring to break them out, but it was a lot of fun.
Likewise. I miss L&T.
 

IrvingS

Starting Member
Hi everyone, long time reader, new member. I had a question concerning a vintage sport coat I am considering. The label “Juilliard: The Aristocrat of Sport Coats.” The tweed sport coat appears to be early or Mid 1960s. Does anyone know about this manufacture or label? Was the line of clothing decent or something else? I cannot find any references to it online but have seen other sport coats with the same or later style tag. Many thanks in advance!!
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eagle2250

Connoisseur/Curmudgeon Emeritus - Moderator
Hi everyone, long time reader, new member. I had a question concerning a vintage sport coat I am considering. The label “Juilliard: The Aristocrat of Sport Coats.” The tweed sport coat appears to be early or Mid 1960s. Does anyone know about this manufacture or label? Was the line of clothing decent or something else? I cannot find any references to it online but have seen other sport coats with the same or later style tag. Many thanks in advance!! View attachment 55525
Member IrvingS, I am not familiar with the Julliard brand of sport coats and am unable to advise you in that regard. However I did want to take this opportunity to welcome you to the forum. I am sure you will enjoy and learn from the experience. Take care and have a great day! ;)
 

TKI67

Elite Member
If you extend beyond linen, I find that a light blue chambray is very useful. Also there is a world of linen/wool/silk blends, often in tic weaves, that are very nice.
 

Patrick06790

Connoisseur
The problem I've always had with "summer" jackets is they tend to be fully-lined, which pretty much negates the effect of lighter fabrics.

After much trial and error I settled on a thrifted poly blend hopsack blazer that isn't perfect but at least it isn't fully lined.

Years ago LL Bean had a cotton blazer, similar to sturdy chino fabric, in navy and tan. No structure to speak of, save the bare minimum of shoulder. Only problem with those was they were darted. Alas, I outgrew them, ahem, and to the thrift shop they went. Now that I've lost 20 pounds I wish I had stashed them in my super-secret clothing vault.
 

TKI67

Elite Member
The problem I've always had with "summer" jackets is they tend to be fully-lined, which pretty much negates the effect of lighter fabrics.

After much trial and error I settled on a thrifted poly blend hopsack blazer that isn't perfect but at least it isn't fully lined.

Years ago LL Bean had a cotton blazer, similar to sturdy chino fabric, in navy and tan. No structure to speak of, save the bare minimum of shoulder. Only problem with those was they were darted. Alas, I outgrew them, ahem, and to the thrift shop they went. Now that I've lost 20 pounds I wish I had stashed them in my super-secret clothing vault.
Murray's Toggery offers an unconstructed jacket in Nantucket red, tan, or blue. They do not appear to be darted. I have also found old Madras jackets on Etsy that are very light and comfortable.
 

Fading Fast

Connoisseur
The problem I've always had with "summer" jackets is they tend to be fully-lined, which pretty much negates the effect of lighter fabrics.

After much trial and error I settled on a thrifted poly blend hopsack blazer that isn't perfect but at least it isn't fully lined.

Years ago LL Bean had a cotton blazer, similar to sturdy chino fabric, in navy and tan. No structure to speak of, save the bare minimum of shoulder. Only problem with those was they were darted. Alas, I outgrew them, ahem, and to the thrift shop they went. Now that I've lost 20 pounds I wish I had stashed them in my super-secret clothing vault.
I found this to be true up until about ten years ago and, then, I started to notice some unlined (really, half lined as the shoulders and sleeves would be lined, but not the rest) sport coats popping up. Ralph, Brooks and J.Crew since then have often had some unlined sport coats. I own a couple of J.Crew summer ones that are great because, as you note, if they line the jacket, it undoes much of the good of the light material.
 

IrvingS

Starting Member
Member IrvingS, I am not familiar with the Julliard brand of sport coats and am unable to advise you in that regard. However I did want to take this opportunity to welcome you to the forum. I am sure you will enjoy and learn from the experience. Take care and have a great day! ;)
Thanks for the welcome. The sport coat turned out to be very cheaply made, even by 1960s standards.
 

IrvingS

Starting Member
Hi again everyone, any opinions on wearing a short sleeve white ocbd shirt (an older brooks brothers one)? Other than trying to look like a mid century NASA or IBM engineer?
 

TKI67

Elite Member
Hi again everyone, any opinions on wearing a short sleeve white ocbd shirt (an older brooks brothers one)? Other than trying to look like a mid century NASA or IBM engineer?
Growing up in the DC area before air conditioning was commonplace, I saw a lot of them. For reasons I never understood, they are now out of favor. They do feel odd under a jacket.
 

Tweedlover

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
Growing up in the DC area before air conditioning was commonplace, I saw a lot of them. For reasons I never understood, they are now out of favor. They do feel odd under a jacket.
Agree that they didn't feel quite right to me. I prefer the look of a long sleeved OCBD shirt rolled to mid-forearm over a short-sleeved if one takes the jacket off. When I was working I typically would do that even when keeping the jacket on so that I could see my wristwatches easier.
 

Charles Dana

Honors Member
Hi again everyone, any opinions on wearing a short sleeve white ocbd shirt (an older brooks brothers one)?
What’s YOUR opinion? That’s the one that matters.

(I wouldn’t wear it—not my style. I have three button-front, short-sleeve seersucker shirts. But no short-sleeve OCBDs. Not that it should matter to you.)
 

IrvingS

Starting Member
Good morning all, yes, it was a lark. I passed on it. My main interest was because it was an older, brooks brothers shirt. I do own a number of vintage seersucker and madras, short sleeve ocbd style shirts, but pattern short sleeve summer shirts seem more appropriate than a solid white short sleeve shirt.
 

Tweedlover

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
Good morning all, yes, it was a lark. I passed on it. My main interest was because it was an older, brooks brothers shirt. I do own a number of vintage seersucker and madras, short sleeve ocbd style shirts, but pattern short sleeve summer shirts seem more appropriate than a solid white short sleeve shirt.
I agree. I wear denim, chambray, and seersucker, (patterned), short sleeved shirts in the summer. Those along with polos and T-shirts comprise my summer shirt selections.
 
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