BB OCBD vs BB Black Fleece OCBD

Steve Smith

Super Member
See, that's what I was wondering, if there ARE proper dimensions in shirt width or not. However, form what I could get off the blog, those shirts are the same size, before the whole traditional, regular, slim, extra slim even existed.

Was the blog discussing the differences between a Neck-Sleeve sized OCBD and an S/M/L sized madras sport shirt?
 

BorderBandit

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
Was the blog discussing the differences between a Neck-Sleeve sized OCBD and an S/M/L sized madras sport shirt?

That was the one. It was a discussion of a 15 1/2 OCBD and a 15 1/2 Madras. He tried a 16 as well, and there was also a difference. It wouldn't surprise me if American made sizing was more "generous" than others. Didn't mean to open a can of worms on this, but a quick search of AAAC forums left me with anecdotal evidence mainly and not something more objectively measured. I'm thinking of switching exclusively to BBBF shirts and am trying to make the best decision.

This post:


THIS, however is the infamous post wherein OCBDs are measured and even weighed.


The conclusions here are somewhat similar from the previous post, but not as drastic. NOS (1990) versus contemporary showed a roomier chest and a slightly longer length. Also, the heft of the fabric has gotten heavier. There was also a discussion there about the lining in the collar, as described in a previous thread on this forum. Noticeably the comparison of the collars could rectify some of this debate over sizing since the new OCBD collars are considerably thicker than older OCBDs, possibly leading towards an increased collar size to compensate for thicker fabric?

I'd like to continue what Heavy Tweed has done, but have no NOS OCBDs to measure comparably to either regular BB OCBDs or BBBBF OCBDs. However, again though this is a 10 year difference, I'm still wondering of what I shall arbitrarily name the pre-modern era before the 1980s OCBD would compare. My grammar and syntax are atrocious but I'm tired, blargh.
 
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Uncle Bill

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
I have been happy with the core must iron BB OCBDs compared to the sport shirt versions which are really roomy. Going forward I'll just gun for the slim fit versions.
 

Doctor Damage

Connoisseur
Posted the following in response to something Trip asked in another thread:

The BBBF sleeves are a bit long for me, but my arms are a bit short, so the sizing is probably okay for normal people. I do find the skirts to be a bit short, but the fit is so good they never pull out of my pants, whereas my classic fit BB shirts, which are uber-long, constantly pull out of my pants - that proves fit is everything. Checking the BBBF size chart (scroll down to bottom) I would say the measured size is 1" larger than quoted in the chart; so, for example, I wear a size BB3 which is quoted in the chart as 16" neck and 34" sleeve, but in fact the shirts measure to almost 17" neck and at least 35" sleeve. The torso, however, is slim and a bit short, so I think men with a spare tire and/or a looooong body should avoid; on the other hand, I'm doing okay and I'm usually a 42L in suits.
 

Jovan

Honors Member
Did you measure before or after washing and drying a few times? That can make quite a bit of difference. I understand they are "garment washed" but that sometimes means little. (Especially when Hanes undershirts are supposedly preshrunk yet go up to my belly button after washing and drying on low. Once.)

The reason I've avoided long sleeve BBBF shirts, even when significantly discounted, is because of the wacky Thom Browne sizing. Heck, that's why I'd avoid the suits too... I'm not sure if I'd have to size up and if that would even be enough.
 

Doctor Damage

Connoisseur
Jovan said:
Did you measure before or after washing and drying a few times? That can make quite a bit of difference. I understand they are "garment washed" but that sometimes means little. (Especially when Hanes undershirts are supposedly preshrunk yet go up to my belly button after washing and drying on low. Once.)
Couple of washes, but I do it carefully and drip dry after only a very short whirl in the dryer. In my experience, only the white BB oxford shirts shrink in any significant way which I why I will never buy another white OCBD shirt from BB.
The reason I've avoided long sleeve BBBF shirts, even when significantly discounted, is because of the wacky Thom Browne sizing. Heck, that's why I'd avoid the suits too... I'm not sure if I'd have to size up and if that would even be enough.
The system seems crazy because of the "BB3" nomenclature, but the measurements more or less match what letter sizing should be (or is when vanity sizing is not given priority). I have regular BB buttondown shirt which is a Medium and the measurements are only slightly smaller than the BBBF BB3 size, which supposedly is Browne's Medium.

I think many folks need to ignore Thom Browne's reputation for zaniness and simply try some of his stuff.

Edit: I used to think I was an odd size and needed special sizing, but experience has taught me that I'm not really far off the "average" and I'm not going to not buy something cool because it isn't 100% perfect. I would prefer the BBBF shirts to be 1/2" shorter in the sleeves, but they fit 95% right overall. I could get the regular BB shirts with exact sleeve lengths, but those only fit me 75% right overall (due to other fit issues), so the decision is easy for me.
 
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bd79cc

Super Member
Actually I'd be interested to know what Brooks Brother's OCBD shirts were like before vanity sizing came into play.

In the 1970's and 80's the must-iron OCBDs were straighter-cut, longer in the body, had longer sleeves and shorter cuffs, slightly shorter collars, bigger pockets, and narrower shoulders than the current line. The Oxford cloth in these shirts was thicker, sturdier, and more consistent in hand and appearance. Cuffs and collars weren't interfaced back then, either. This gave the shirts a different, somewhat looser fit than what we experience today. Today's Brooks OCBD, though good, has suffered from almost all aspects of it being changed from "good" to "almost as good but a lot cheaper" - i.e., value engineering - and isn't at all what it used to be.
 
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Doctor Damage

Connoisseur
One of the regular sellers on SF recently put up a wonderful BBBF multi-panel fun shirt but without a tag. We have debated the size and don’t agree! Anyway, I made a point of measuring several of my BBBF shirts to confirm sizing (they’re starting to accumulate in my closet).

Here’s what the official BBBF size chart says:
BB0 36 15/31
BB1 38 15/33
BB2 40 15.5/34
BB3 42 16/34
BB4 44 16.5/35
BB5 46 17/35

Here’s how my BB3 shirts measure: nearly all of them measure to 16-16.5” neck and 35” sleeve. Each of my shirts measure 24” across the chest just under the arms. One of them measures extra big, both in the neck and sleeves, and that one, unfortunately, is the one I posted about earlier in this thread—it is the outlier among my informal data sample and past measurements I posted are not to be trusted.

So, it appears the BB3 shirts measure a bit larger in the collar than the size chart, and 1” longer in the sleeve than the size chart. I imagine the other sizes are similarly “laundry shrinkage sized”.
 

Himself

Super Member
At 15.5x34 and 40 REG, the "M" sized sport shirts in Slim or Regular fit me better than the neck and sleeve sized dress shirts. I'm almost tempted to hit the outlets for some cheap "346" OCBDs. How few sizes there are doesn't matter, if one of them fits you. Sometimes you can't know that until you try one.
 

dport86

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
I've bought BBBF OCBD's every year since the collection first debuted, and much prefer the quality over the regular offerings. That being said, have found in the last 2 years a lot of sizing variation (even within the same year) and some quality variation too. Some of these shirts were made with fantastic fabrics of a quality level not seen in BB standard shirtings (not to denigrate Golden Fleece, which is often superb quality but more akin to Italian than trad norms). But others are now of lesser, perhaps more standard BB shirtings, and the fit on some is larger than others. Be careful not to judge all from single current examples. I'm happy I bought extras early on.
 
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