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Canali Navy Blue Checkered 15XXX Suit; Opinions Wanted

3K views 27 replies 9 participants last post by  AbeEz 
#1 ·
Hi,
I recently purchased for a good deal a Canali Navy Blue with Subtle Checkers. Size 36 Regular, and it is the 15XXX model, which I understood from their website and various sources to be a more modern and slimmer fitting fit. I purchased it from TopShelf Ebay Seller, which I understood again based on various sources to be a reliable and trusted seller when it comes to suits.

I wanted to hear if there are any opinions on the suit, regarding the color and design. I would be wearing it once a week or so, and I was wondering also if it was a little bit too unique for once a week wear without it being noticed or remembered too much. I haven't received it yet, but I have attached pictures. I am pretty confident regarding the fit, as I am a 36R across the board even in the slimmest fitting suits.

Thanks
 

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#2 ·
It’s a nice suit and nice fabric. I’m not terribly familiar with Canali’s different styles and fits, but it seems like you already did that homework.

I think the pattern is subtle enough that you could do that easily. Of course, solids are always the safest choice, but I think you’re fine with this particular selection.

I hope it fits well and you’re able to enjoy it with minimal alteration.
 
#20 ·
Now how do Euro-sized trousers work? I know that if the suit has a drop 7, that is 7cm x 2 less for for trousers (and jacket waist), or 5.5 inches less total. But when I see size EU 48 trousers, how does that mathematically translate to a US 32? Is it the hip measurement in cm?
The concept of drop is a bit artificial amongst Italian tailoring companies.

In principle, the concept is the same of UK/US sizing but applied to half-measures of chest and waist. For example: a size 50 (100 cm = 40'' chest) in a drop 6 will come with trousers having half waist measuring 50 - 6 = 44 cm, that is to say a total waist of 88 cm = about 34.5''.

In the practice the term drop is more often used to classify the overall fit of the jacket, in particular shoulder-chest-waist ration. This use is unfortunately not formalised and varies from maker to maker but as a guide:

drop 4 = stout figure/portly fit
drop 6 = regular figure/classic fit (normal shoulders, normal waist)
drop 7 = slim figure/tailored fit (narrow shoulders, narrow waist)
drop 8 = athletic figure/slim fit (wide shoulder, very narrow waist)

It is very difficult to give general rules as they change from maker to maker. Most houses label each of their pattern blocks by the drop number so this becomes more an indicator of fit than size in these cases.
 
#21 ·
The concept of drop is a bit artificial amongst Italian tailoring companies.

In principle, the concept is the same of UK/US sizing but applied to half-measures of chest and waist. For example: a size 50 (100 cm = 40'' chest) in a drop 6 will come with trousers having half waist measuring 50 - 6 = 44 cm, that is to say a total waist of 88 cm = about 34.5''.

In the practice the term drop is more often used to classify the overall fit of the jacket, in particular shoulder-chest-waist ration. This use is unfortunately not formalised and varies from maker to maker but as a guide:

drop 4 = stout figure/portly fit
drop 6 = regular figure/classic fit (normal shoulders, normal waist)
drop 7 = slim figure/tailored fit (narrow shoulders, narrow waist)
drop 8 = athletic figure/slim fit (wide shoulder, very narrow waist)

It is very difficult to give general rules as they change from maker to maker. Most houses label each of their pattern blocks by the drop number so this becomes more an indicator of fit than size in these cases.
That makes sense - of course the one disconnect is that in us sizing the trousers are labelled so a suit in size 42 will usually have trousers with a labelled 36 waist (or 35 if the cut is more athletic.) If you don't know the drop on the Euro sized clothing then sometimes its a surprise. And then of course there is size inflation and differences in cuts. In order to successfully order things online it helps to have exact measurements, to know what you are ordering through experience with that manufacturer, and finally to have an easy return policy. Of course, nothing works better than trying it on first!
 
#28 ·
So amidst the discussion of drops I received the suit this past Friday. The shoulder fit is perfect, however although this fit is one of Canalis slimmer fits it looks like it can use some trimming down. It doesn’t look big, but being that I have a very athletic build at 5’10” and 135 to 140 pounds it doesn’t follow the contour of my chest and waist, and definitely isn’t an ideal fit. This is besides the sleeves needing to be trimmed and shortened a drop. Length is good maybe a couple centimeters too long as well.

Let’s say in inches the drop seems to be about a 6 inch drop. I need an 8 inch drop.

So I wanted to ask the following

#1 I believe it is def. worth to tailor it if possible at an experienced tailor for around 100 to 150 dollars as a tailored Canali suit in my opinion comes out better than a $1300 MTM suit. Because high quality MTM suits don’t seem to be in my price range. And the ones that are 1000 to 1500 seem to be a hit and miss for many. I have seen people recommending Samuelson (spelling wrong), anyone who can recommend this over tailoring the Canali suit who can put their bet on a well made slim fitting suit.

#2 any recommendations for experienced tailors in NYC?

Thanks
 
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