If there were additional stitching in the nonvisible - inside - part of the roll at a high tension, would that not cause more of a roll? If you took the collar apart as they did, the stitching itself would be cut and so with loss of the tension, would not be observed to have any effect.The "roll" of the original Brooks button down collar - a mystery that I list with the Emilia Earhard and Judge Crater disappearances.
When I joined my father at Chipp in 1960, we had three shirt suppliers - Gant, Troy Guild and Creighton.
They each offered a button shirt - their version of replicating the Brooks "roll".
Each company had purchased a Brooks oxford button down shirt.
They took it apart and traced each part. They put the parts together and voila - the "roll" was not the same.
I asked Marty and Elliot Gant, Bill Archer and Don Donovan at Troy, and Larry Kamisher at Creighton
why the "roll" was not on the mark.
No one had an answer.
One of the commenters mentions your shop, not sure if you caught that : )jc1305us - Interesting article !
StephenRC - Although I have been "involved" in the business for many years, I can't do much more than sew on a button. I certainly know very little about shirt construction and less about stitching tension.
Marty and Elliot , who" lived" the shirt business, tried to get the roll a number of times. I am sure they knew about stitching, stitching tension and everything else about shirts.
Don't forget, "pay only additional S&H" - when the cost of that is another profit source.I see many ads on TV saying, for example, " Not only is the price reduced from $40 to $19.50, when you buy one you get a 2nd one for free.
So the price they want is $9.75 and they make you buy 2.
There is no "Free Lunch".
Always liked Redford's turtleneck sweater in "The Way We Were:"Nice story.
There was a running gag in "Barefoot in the Park" where Redford was winded and about to collapse after reaching the fifth floor walk-up apartment. His "kooky" wife (Jane Fonda) took an apartment in the middle of the Bohemian Greenwich Village. Redford played the traditional, straight-laced and boring WASP lawyer.
While channel surfing this weekend I glanced at the 1973 "The Way We Were." The kooky and Bohemian Barbara Streisand invited Redford, the straight-laced, WASP, young naval officer, to her fourth floor walkup. Again, he arrived winded and ready to collapse after making the climb.
There are no new stories, just retellings of the old.