iammatt

Elite Member
I posted this on SF, but figured that there might be some interest in it here as well.

Dimitri Gomez is not somebody who is written about often on this forum. He runs the bespoke operation for the Crockett and Jones shop in Paris and he is also the man who designed the 337 last. Along with his bespoke shoes he produces a limited number of demi-mesure shoes. These shoes are made the exact same way as the bespoke shoes and are fully customizable. There is literally no styling option that you cannot chang apart from the fac that the shoes are made on standard lasts. There are two forms available, the first is a round toe and the second a slightly square toe.

I had the opportunity to meet Dimitri in Paris in September. Knowing that I would not be able to return for the fittings required for a bespoke shoe, I decided to try the demi-mesure program. I ordered a shoe that I have been lookg for for a good long time: the perfect three eyelet plain toe derby. I went with a light London Tan color and opted not to have it overly antiqued. The idea is for the shoe to darken over time and acquire it's own patina. From my point of view, M. Gomez translated my wishes perfectly into this pair of shoes. He is a nice, warm man who is a pleasure to deal with.

I hope that you like them:




 

Brian13

Super Member
very nice color and shape. the leather looks like the color of a peach.
how would you compare this leather to your lattanzis?
the leather on this one looks very special. very bespoke looking.
 

jcusey

Senior Moderator<br>Technical Support
Thank you for the write-up and the pictures, Matt. The construction looks to be first-rate, and I have a soft spot for three-eyelet derbies.

Would you happen to have a more detailed picture of the waist?
 

iammatt

Elite Member
Thank you for the write-up and the pictures, Matt. The construction looks to be first-rate, and I have a soft spot for three-eyelet derbies.

Would you happen to have a more detailed picture of the waist?



They have the tightest cut waist that I have seen anywhere. There is no fiddleback, just a very tight, bevelled waist.
 

jcusey

Senior Moderator<br>Technical Support
They have the tightest cut waist that I have seen anywhere. There is no fiddleback, just a very tight, bevelled waist.
Thank you for the additional pictures. That is one fine waist. I am officially jealous now.

To what extent were you able to specify the pattern? Would M. Gomez make the pattern from scratch if you had come up with something that he didn't have, or were you limited to making modifications to existing patterns?
 

iammatt

Elite Member
Thank you for the additional pictures. That is one fine waist. I am officially jealous now.

To what extent were you able to specify the pattern? Would M. Gomez make the pattern from scratch if you had come up with something that he didn't have, or were you limited to making modifications to existing patterns?
Only the last is not changeable. The rest is literally "sky is the limit". He has a ton of samples as all of his bespoke samples are equally applicable to the Bottier line. I do not think that anything is against the rules. The only bad thing is that you need to be there to order, and he does not ship. I was there to order, and had a family member pick them up in Paris and bring them to me. I am sure that you could find somebody to get them to you as long as you were there to place the order.

For what he offers, as long as you fit in to and like the lasts, it is a bargain.
 

Brian13

Super Member
i love this 3 eyelet derby as well. so is the demi measure program the one between his rtw and bespoke, correct?

so the demi measure program is the one that is advertised as 1200 euro ?
 

voxsartoria

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
Very nice, Matt. Thanks for sharing.



They have the tightest cut waist that I have seen anywhere. There is no fiddleback, just a very tight, bevelled waist.
The waist compares very well, even though it looks welted, to the pegged waist from another handmade RTW shoe, Saint Crispin's in this case:



- B
 

Nick V

Senior Member
Museum quality. I like the rounded sole in the shank area. The heel seems a bit high. How does the balance feel when you are wearing them?
 
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