Flanderian's Bespoke Shirt Fantasy.

Flanderian

Connoisseur
One of the nicest things, perhaps the nicest, of having a shirtmaker and a tailor is being able to play clothing designer. If this type of an act of creation gets your juices flowing, you understand what I mean. Long ago and far away, I enjoyed one of each.

The variety is almost limitless, which can get you in trouble, or not. It gives you an opportunity to combine things you love in ways that you'll likely never find in RTW. I love dressing up country wear and creating a synergy among items that are often pigeon-holed by the excessively left-brained as things you can't wear together.

One thing that I've always found lovely are reverse carved, painted crystal cufflinks, particularly in sporting motifs. Surprisingly versatile, they're nonetheless most at home in a rustic aesthetic.

But, oh no, you can't wear cufflinks with country wear! :eek2:

Rubbish!

Now what kind of shirt might create the deepest, most resonant aesthetic for these lovely links? Well how about a plaid shirt?

But, oh no, you can't wear a plaid "sport" shirt with links, and Madre de Dios, a tie!!!

Double rubbish!

Bereft of bespoke, I'm left to the fantasies of the mind, fortunately ably abetted by the glories of the Internet.

First we find a desirable pair of links: these are particularly tasty! -
22099366_1_l.jpg
But no longer having thousands of swatches at my fingertips, I'm left to improvise, but at least we have the good folks at Mercer who make rather nice shirts, and show a few swatches on line.

https://www.mercerandsons.com/swatches_and_pricing.htm

And from which I select this as something I want to put my beautiful links upon -

grdnplaidtwn.jpg

The French cuffs, and off course a spread collar. I'll wear one of my lovely knit silk ties with it, perhaps the mulberry colored one, or maybe the gold to pick up that color in the shirt, and pair it with my grey barleycorn Harris Tweed jacket and black widewale cords and plain navy silk PS.

Ahh . . . . that felt good!

Hope you enjoyed it too!
 

watchnerd

Senior Member
Psshaw, matching plaids and tweed is just too easy.

I'm trying to think of how I want to play with dark Japanese flower print broadcloths:

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Gurdon

Moderator
My own custom shirt undertaking is not nearly as elegant as those of Flanderian and Watchnerd. My objective, however, was similar to theirs -- I hoped to obtain the ideal version of a type of shirt I especially like.

Several years ago when my LL Bean chambray work shirts were wearing out, and were no longer offered by Bean, I had four duplicates made by a local tailor/shirtmaker. They were a considerable improvement over the LL Bean originals. I still have them, although they are showing considerable wear.

Fortunately, Bean sold them again this year, so my supply is set for a while.

Gurdon
 

Oldsarge

Moderator and Bon Vivant
I've decided that my signature shirt is a button-down collar with french cuffs . . . because I like cufflinks, too. And I've developed a dislike for stiff collar points because I'm always forgetting to take out the stays when I wash. So . . . off to Hemrajani with an order. I haven't go so far as to have shirts like that made up in the materials Flandarian and Watchnerd favor . . . yet. But stripes and tattersalls? Heck yeah!
 

watchnerd

Senior Member
I've decided that my signature shirt is a button-down collar with french cuffs . . . because I like cufflinks, too.

I think someone somewhere would scream about the combination of the 'less formal' button-down with the 'ultra formal' cuff links, but I'm not that guy. Instead:

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Flanderian

Connoisseur
My own custom shirt undertaking is not nearly as elegant as those of Flanderian and Watchnerd. My objective, however, was similar to theirs -- I hoped to obtain the ideal version of a type of shirt I especially like.

Several years ago when my LL Bean chambray work shirts were wearing out, and were no longer offered by Bean, I had four duplicates made by a local tailor/shirtmaker. They were a considerable improvement over the LL Bean originals. I still have them, although they are showing considerable wear.

Fortunately, Bean sold them again this year, so my supply is set for a while.

Gurdon

I would describe that as both prudent and perspicacious. Chambray is also one of my favorite fabrics. 25 or 30 years ago it was favored and common in wide range of both styles and quality. I've some older shirts from Lands End that satisfy my basic yearnings. Since I'm no longer in the bespoke market, I've not done a thorough survey of the chambray fabrics available, but my "sweet spot" for the level of refinement of the cloth seems to lie south of the very fine versions I've seen depicted from top quality mills. But neither do I like it in its most coarse and utilitarian form. I prefer a level between the two, still similar in appearance to that formerly used for work wear, but more tightly woven with a softer hand. Once had a decent RTW shirt made of such cloth with a tab collar. Purchased it at F. R. Tripler as I recall.
 

Flanderian

Connoisseur
Psshaw, matching plaids and tweed is just too easy.

I'm trying to think of how I want to play with dark Japanese flower print broadcloths:

3ca701b267044d570afb0707ba0c88fd_page_default.jpg


f6eba3b0f9f3f00bf3334e8b7dd6b23a_page_default.jpg



d63fa1690808553bbeb05d749e1db66c_page_default.jpg

That's lovely cloth, but I don't think I could want to make a shirt from it.

I seem to have an instinctive attraction to classic forms, and rarely can resist an attractive tartan or check.
 

Flanderian

Connoisseur
I've decided that my signature shirt is a button-down collar with french cuffs . . . because I like cufflinks, too. And I've developed a dislike for stiff collar points because I'm always forgetting to take out the stays when I wash. So . . . off to Hemrajani with an order. I haven't go so far as to have shirts like that made up in the materials Flandarian and Watchnerd favor . . . yet. But stripes and tattersalls? Heck yeah!

If one is evolving one's shirt wardrobe via bespoke, a draw full of French-cuffed tartans would hardly do. The shirt you propose sounds very handsome, and certainly more versatile than my fantasy.
 

watchnerd

Senior Member
That's lovely cloth, but I don't think I could want to make a shirt from it.

I seem to have an instinctive attraction to classic forms, and rarely can resist an attractive tartan or check.

I love tartans and checks, too. I have lots of them and they go great with my tweed sports coats.

But sometimes I want to wear my black leather blazer, and that just doesn't go with plaids.
 
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