Matt S

Connoisseur
Say what?

Suit yourself (pun intended), but please explain this line of thought.
Shirt sleeves that extend past your jacket sleeves protect the edge of your jacket sleeves. If your jacket sleeves rub against your wrist, the oils from your wrist and the rubbing cause wear to the ends of the sleeves. It's better that the shirt get this wear than the jacket because the shirt (or even just the cuffs) can be replaced for far less money than the jacket (or full suit in the case of a suit) can. This is the most practical reason for having shirt sleeves longer than your jacket sleeves.
 

mhdena

Senior Member
I've never worn out jacket sleeves, my french cuffs were doing there job I guess. I wore a few of those out years ago but I blame the cleaners for that.

Shirt sleeves seem a hot button, like button down collars.

Its all preference, so suit yourself I say.

For me french cuffs have and always will seem more debonair:icon_smile_big:
 

Jovan

Honors Member
Thanks for the link. Only reinforces what I said about the whole issue being a matter of preference. He explicitly says so and explains why he feels the way he does. An argument for shirt pockets is that, like braces, no one will see them when you're wearing a coat anyway. It can also be a useful place to store pens, etc. when not wearing a jacket. Someone (I can't remember who) said that shirt pockets were developed as a response to the declining use of waistcoats which had four pockets for all a man's needs. Most jackets back then only had one inner breast pocket. Two if you were lucky. I'm not entirely certain about this claim, given the evidence below from a period where waistcoats were in widespread use, but there may be some truth to it.

Sadly, the article lost me at this fallacy:

"The innovation of a pocket is widely attributed to Brooks Brothers when they first added one to their button down shirt in 1960s, although the button down itself dates back to 1896."

Pockets could be requested on Brooks Brothers shirts for an additional charge quite a long time before they were made them standard; I'm guessing that happened because a great number of men requested them. Shirt pockets were certainly around and on other brands long before the 1960s in any case. Here's an Arrow shirt from 1931 that had a breast pocket very much like the one we're accustomed to. Worn with a tie, too.

https://www.decodog.com/inven/sports/fb30411.jpg

Even further back, an ad from 1925 featuring a J. Press-like button flap pocket.

https://apps.lib.ua.edu/blogs/digitalservices/files/2011/12/3.png

Again, meant to be worn with a tie, so we can't use the excuse of them being sport shirts.

He really should have done more research. Sadly I cannot bring it to his attention as the comments are closed for that blog post.
 
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flinch

New Member
Im thinking he missed printed 1960. Seems to have too much info to be that far off. The comments were scattered so I don't think most people give a damn. I assume a button down will have a pocket unless it has a polo player in its stead. You will not see a button down with a French cuff. I say put pockets on B.D.'s and none on French cuffs. (alas most of my French cuffs do have a pocket).
 

pusso

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
I respectfully disagree - IMO you should show more cuff with a French cuff than a button-cuff. I am aware, however, that opinions vary and we will both be deemed foul heretics, etc. by some people in the opposite camp. My rule of thumb is that the sleeve should show just up to, but before the button or the cufflink. As buttons are typically closer to the end of the sleeve than the holes for cufflinks, so you show more cuff with French cuffs.
i agree - if one has particularly nice cufflinks to show off, you would want them to be visible, or there's no point in wearing double cuff shirts!
 

Greenshirt

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
I have tried buying OTR for French Cuffs shirts and honestly it does not work for me. Hence, my option is to also have it tailored for the proper fit especially with suits.
 

Jovan

Honors Member
i agree - if one has particularly nice cufflinks to show off, you would want them to be visible, or there's no point in wearing double cuff shirts!
To display your cufflinks while standing straight with arms at your side you'd have to show at least an inch of shirt cuff, which is excessive and gaudy. The only time they'll be seen is when your arms are out. That's what they need to be, though. A subtle statement.
 

Tim Correll

Advanced Member
Im thinking he missed printed 1960. Seems to have too much info to be that far off. The comments were scattered so I don't think most people give a damn. I assume a button down will have a pocket unless it has a polo player in its stead. You will not see a button down with a French cuff. I say put pockets on B.D.'s and none on French cuffs. (alas most of my French cuffs do have a pocket).

Whenever possible, I like to have no pockets on a dress shirt, regardless of the kind of collar and cuffs the shirt has. It just looks far better in every way, IMO.
 

Jovan

Honors Member
There are times I wear certain dress shirts without a jacket (such as that light blue gingham one) and wish they had a pocket...
 
G

Guest-983268

Guest
This question may come across as inane so please forgive a newbie. I am wanting to purchase a couple french cuff shirts. When asked for sleeve length is this the same measurement as I would normally wear? Or do I need to take into consideration it being french cuff? i.e. longer sleeve length? I have been upgrading my wardrobe (thanks in large part to this site) so I am still learning.
I had the same question. I think my sleeves are 33 1/2 (haven't had them properly measured), so most of my button cuff shirts I'll buy 34, but on a french cuff, or brands that pair 16 1/2 neck with 34 1/2 sleeves, I've found the sleeves extend too far for my comfort, so I'm wondering if I should go with 33 instead.
 

Matt S

Connoisseur
I had the same question. I think my sleeves are 33 1/2 (haven't had them properly measured), so most of my button cuff shirts I'll buy 34, but on a french cuff, or brands that pair 16 1/2 neck with 34 1/2 sleeves, I've found the sleeves extend too far for my comfort, so I'm wondering if I should go with 33 instead.
Going with a sleeve that's too short will only create a different problem. It sounds like the cuffs might be too large for your wrists if they extend too far. That's the problem with a lot of RTW double cuffs, and unlike button cuffs you can't adjust the size of the cuff by moving a button. Finding a brand that makes smaller cuffs would help. MTM is the best solution.
 
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