Help with fit - suit from Black Lapel

superduper

Starting Member
Hi there! Long time lurker, first time poster...

I recently ordered a suit (my first MTM) from blacklapel.com. I have 3-4" drop so tend to need suit separates, and also tend to have problems in the shoulders. That's what somewhat pushed me to try MTM. Also, I need a decent suit and am happy to use my upcoming wedding (end of August) as incentive to invest a bit. I purchased the solid gray suit with a tailored fit.

Black Lapel's concierge was fantastic in moving the process along and adjust some measurements based on photos that I sent in.

Now that the suit has arrived, there are definitely some things that need to be altered, but for the most part I'm really excited to have a custom suit. I would greatly appreciate feedback on some of the most noticeable areas that need improvement. Below are some of the things that I've picked up on. I sent these photos to Black Lapel concierge as well, and will be heading to my tailor early next week.

Thanks!

Jacket:

  • Chest/waist too large, has a bit of a "sack" look and feel to it. Can fit fist between chest and buttoned jacket.
  • Shoulders are some of the best I've worn, this is my trouble area with most OTR jackets so I was pretty happy. There is some very slight dimpling, maybe they could be a hair narrower, but for the most part i'm happy.
  • Back: neck roll is there depending on how I stand, as well as some bunching up between the shoulder blades that is probably due to my posture. There also seems to be some issue with the lower portion of the arm hole that's causing some rolling around my arm pits, mores on the right.
  • Sleeves are too long. I did end up lengthening this measurement based on your recommendations and remeasuring, but just by a little bit. Some how the sleeves seem to end quite a bit over the mark at this point. Could probably lose an inch.
Pants:

  • Waist: fits perfectly.
  • Length: I think it's good. If anything, a longer rise would allow me to wear them a hair higher that may allow me to adjust the length ever so slightly to get just a single break.
  • Pant width through the leg and opening: really happy with this. Not too slim to be overly fashiony but slim enough to look sharp.
  • From the back: It seems to mostly be a problem with the rise. I wore my favorite khakis that had the rise I tend to like, but for some reason, the rise seems shorter here. At least that's what I'm guessing causes the weirdness in the fit around my groin/butt from the back.
  • From the front: look good to me.


P.S. Don't judge the shoes, they're an ollldd pair that got destroyed at a party. Just placeholders.














Thanks!
 

emb1980

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
I'll give my usual disclaimer that I'm so far from expert that its not even funny.

One classic way to determine jacket length is to divide the distance from the collar to floor in half in back.



You're covering your rump, but only barely, and the bottom of the jacket is also drawing my eye to the widest part of your midsection. As seen, you're also well short of halfway down. I've taken the liberty of doing a quick photoshop effort to show you what it would look like lengthened a smidge, and also the button stance lowered proportionately. To my eye it looks a bit better. Note that I haven't gone all the way to halfway down (due to arm length), just a little closer.





Again, take this with a grain of salt. Not saying its "wrong" as it is, just something I think might flatter your body shape a little more on future suits.
 
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