mambo

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
I have tried doing a search but can't seem to find a thread that specifically covers this. Also, what little I have found seems vague or conflicting. Studying photos on the forum hasn't helped as I see jackets that hang at different points of the anatomy too.

How long should the jacket be? Is it measured at some point along the hand or at a certain part of ones bottom?

Confused:confused:
 

Bonhamesque

Senior Member
I have tried doing a search but can't seem to find a thread that specifically covers this. Also, what little I have found seems vague or conflicting. Studying photos on the forum hasn't helped as I see jackets that hang at different points of the anatomy too.

How long should the jacket be? Is it measured at some point along the hand or at a certain part of ones bottom?

Confused:confused:
Get someone to measure the distance from the nape of your neck under the collar of a jacket down to the ground and then halve it.
That should be your coat length.
That's one way of doing it.



Eh mambo, mambo Italiano, Eh-mambo, mambo Italiano...
 

rssmsvc

Senior Member
I think the standard answer is just enough to cover your backside, but I have noticed RLPL comes a bit shorter than avg , with Isaia a bit longer.

In the summer time I like it a bit shorter and in the winter a bit longer which is strange but comfortable to me.
 

Capt Ron

Senior Member
Why I know this.....

Get someone to measure the distance from the nape of your neck under the collar of a jacket down to the ground and then halve it.
That should be your coat length.
That's one way of doing it.
quote]
I'm stalky 50 reg jacket . I need 26" coat sleeves, 36" shirt sleeves but I only have a 30" pant inseem. If your shorter (5'10'') and stalky like me you might want to show a little cheek to make yourself look taller. For taller guys a little longer will make you look less tall and a bit wider.

If you do measue it that way you might look unbalanced because everybody's height is in a different place ie. legs vs. torso.:confused:

Many believe Suit jacket or any sport coat should cover your butt cheeks, especially if you have sat in something and have stained your pants.:crazy:

Yes measure from the bottom of coat collar to the end of the coat. Less than 30" is usually considered a short size. More than 32" usually a long.:teacha:

You can also trim the front of a sport coat so if your wearing jeans the bottom of the coat should just cover the lowest portion your front pocket seems, but not go past your crotch.:cool:

If you look at pics of models in biz suits the jacket comes down at the crotch or slightly below the crotch. Most clothing models are between 6'-6'2''. If your inseem is 32" or greater I'd say this looks fine, but you really have to look at yourself in the mirror and ask does this jacket look balanced on me.
Does Andy have a golden rule on this?
 
Flusser suggests two different methods (on page 41 in Dressing the Man):

1) Bottom of the jacket should line up with the knuckle of the thumb. Generally reliable but doesn't work as well with people with unusually long or short arms relative to height.

2) Measure the distance from the jacket collar (at the point where it joins the coat's body) to the floor, then divide by half.

In my experience, there is quite a bit of variation from one designer to another. My Brioni jacket is almost an inch longer than my Isaia.
 

miamimike

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
cup hands

If I can have my arms down by my side and cup my fingers under the jacket then its the right length for me. Thats one way to find out but nothing beats trying on jackets and finding out what looks best for you. I prefer to have shorter jackets which look better on me than longer ones.
 

ilikeyourstyle

Super Member
There's room for some individualization of suit jacket lengths, but I generally try to find a suit jacket that ends just about an inch below the bottom of the curvature of my rear end. An inch longer or shorter than that rarely looks awkward.

I really don't think you should judge suit jacket length by your arm length. The two seem unrelated to me since the proper length is more about where the bottom of the suit ends in relation to your rear end than it is about where your hands extend to.
 

Orsini

Honors Member
…vague or conflicting…
Yes, I am afraid so... :confused:

…How long should the jacket be?
Assuming you are attempting to do Classic Style as described in Roetzel, Molloy, Flusser, Keers, et al., then, ideally, there are three points that have to be met:

  • Half the distance from the collar to the deck -- any deviation from this looks, to a greater or lesser degree, not very good…
  • Skirt cover the seat of the pants
  • Quarters line up with the bottom of the stride
The tricky part is in achieving the last two points with the minimum compromise on the first point.

Please note that this post is intended to comment on sartorial issues only -- not social, or otherwise.
 
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Capt Ron

Senior Member
thats just silly.......

Yes, I am afraid so... :confused:
Assuming you are doing Classic Style :icon_hailthee:, then, ideally, there are three points that have to be met:
  • Half the distance from the collar to the deck -- any deviation from this looks, to a greater or lesser degree, not very good…
  • Skirt needs to cover the seat of the pants
  • Quarters need to line up with the bottom of the stride
The conflict is in meeting the last two points with the minimum compromise on the first point. :icon_headagainstwal
IMHO:

It is totally ridiculous to use arm length as a jacket length measurement. Run away from any tailor who uses this as his primary measuring technique. There is absolutely no logical reasoning behind this unless this measurement is perfect for your build.

I have concluded for conservative suit jackets, there can be only one logical determination of jacket length. It's rude when people stare at each other's crotch. If you want to show your junk off, that's what normally tighter fitting casual pants are for. Please no pictures.

Cover your groin/ crotch and cover your butt cheeks. Most other men don't want to see how "excited" you are over your job or how much weight you have gained over the holidays.

Can anyone else think of any logical determinations?

I believe fashion has to be smart, meaning every fashion reasoning has to have some logic behind it.

Why do we have men's classsic style? So we can wear the same clothes our entire life and still look good and be in fashion. It's about logic gentlemen.
 

Vladimir Berkov

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
Your jacket won't cover your "crotch" anyway regardless of length, unless it is double-breasted. I say go with the "half the length from the collar to the floor" measurement and extend it as close as possible to cover your rear.
 

iammatt

Advanced Member
99% of guys wear their coats too long. don't worry about how long they should be, worry about how much shorter they should be.



 
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Capt Ron

Senior Member
we arent all the same...

Your jacket won't cover your "crotch" anyway regardless of length, unless it is double-breasted. I say go with the "half the length from the collar to the floor" measurement and extend it as close as possible to cover your rear.
That measuring technique is just as silly and illogical as using one's arm length. It would only work if every man had the same exact torso and leg ratios. Think about it.........
 

Bonhamesque

Senior Member
IMHO:

It is totally ridiculous to use arm length as a jacket length measurement. Run away from any tailor who uses this as his primary measuring technique. There is absolutely no logical reasoning behind this unless this measurement is perfect for your build.

I have concluded for conservative suit jackets, there can be only one logical determination of jacket length. It's rude when people stare at each other's crotch. If you want to show your junk off, that's what normally tighter fitting casual pants are for. Please no pictures.

Cover your groin/ crotch and cover your butt cheeks. Most other men don't want to see how "excited" you are over your job or how much weight you have gained over the holidays.

Can anyone else think of any logical determinations?

I believe fashion has to be smart, meaning every fashion reasoning has to have some logic behind it.

Why do we have men's classsic style? So we can wear the same clothes our entire life and still look good and be in fashion. It's about logic gentlemen.
I agree that using the arm length can be unreliable as some people have unusually long / short arms in relation to their body.
However your 'cover your crotch' method is vague in the extreme!
If someone walks into a store and tries a jacket on they may say to themselves 'this covers my crotch so it must be fine' but it could be 2" too long.
You haven't said how much crotch should be covered or how long is too long.
If I was 42 regular and put on a 46 long that would cover my crotch but it wouldn't be right would it?

The most scientific method (and the one used by tailors) is the one that I've specified.
It is not unacceptable to deviate from this measurement by a small amount for the benefit of style or for other reasons but that method will give you a very accurate starting point (and will cover your crotch!).
 
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