Flanderian

Connoisseur
⇧ This made me chuckle. Back in the '80s, for the first few years of my post-college career, before I could afford to move into NYC, I commuted from an elevated NJ train platform.

Standing on that platform in January at 5:30am, I needed every ounce of overcoat that I could afford. I used to, literally, hold the arm holes of my coat closed with my gloved hands to keep the wind from coming in through the sleeves. Some mornings were insane.

But since then, and to your point, I have almost never really needed a heavy weight overcoat, but have always owned one anyway.
It was during a couple years of train commuting that I too became intimately familiar with the thermal properties of various overcoat configurations! :D
 

delicious_scent

Super Member
⇧ This made me chuckle. Back in the '80s, for the first few years of my post-college career, before I could afford to move into NYC, I commuted from an elevated NJ train platform.

Standing on that platform in January at 5:30am, I needed every ounce of overcoat that I could afford. I used to, literally, hold the arm holes of my coat closed with my gloved hands to keep the wind from coming in through the sleeves. Some mornings were insane.

But since then, and to your point, I have almost never really needed a heavy weight overcoat, but have always owned one anyway.
I only recently learned about train platforms and how terrible they are for keeping warm.

The coldest I've been was on my trip to Amsterdam in 2019 Spring. It was 50F and windy, and I only brought an OCBD, a scarf, and my fatigue jacket.

It gets cold here, but public transport is borderline non-existent, so everyone just goes directly from a car to indoors. 10 minute walk at worst.

I can't imagine how frigid it would be on a train platform in an elevated NJ train platform in January. I shivered just thinking about it.

I'd definitely keep a heavy overcoat if I lived in NYC.
Yes, judging only from the photo, and given my preferences, I'd like it best for general purposes.

The heavy tweed is really a wrap coat, and most likely is secured only by one button, as you suggest. Many DB's are also cut with a peak, rather than a notch lapel like this one. I like both.

I don't find belted DB's too busy, but in a coat that's intended to optimize formality, I feel it makes it less so.

A Raglan shoulder and Balmacan collar are both less formal that either a conventional notch lapel, or peak lapel. And as such, I agree they fit most naturally with less formal clothing beneath.
Alright, sounds good. Maybe a teal blue in the future, but better to have something versatile for once. I'm easily distracted by shiny menswear items that don't end up being very useful.

Being a wrap coat makes sense on why I prefer that silhouette.

Agreed on a belted DB being less formal.


That's the example that came to mind for looking too busy, but it may be due to the button configuration+belt. That example I think would look better with half-belt at the back.
 

delicious_scent

Super Member
After rereading everyone's comments and the advice I got on TOF, I think that blue tweed idea sounded better in my head than in reality.

I am leaning towards a traditional "boring" option as I was calling it.


One of those I think. I'm guessing those will come off as a lighter mid-grey.

Hopefully I'll still find it interesting enough if made up in this design.


Any details I should request on an overcoat that may not be present OTR? I was thinking of deeper slash hand-warmer pockets overall, and deeper double chest pockets on the interior.

A scarf pocket as well maybe, but not sure how that works.
 

Flanderian

Connoisseur
After rereading everyone's comments and the advice I got on TOF, I think that blue tweed idea sounded better in my head than in reality.

I am leaning towards a traditional "boring" option as I was calling it.

[/URL][/URL][/URL]
[/URL][/URL][/URL]
[/URL][/URL][/URL]

One of those I think. I'm guessing those will come off as a lighter mid-grey.

Hopefully I'll still find it interesting enough if made up in this design.


Any details I should request on an overcoat that may not be present OTR? I was thinking of deeper slash hand-warmer pockets overall, and deeper double chest pockets on the interior.

A scarf pocket as well maybe, but not sure how that works.
I'm back! :happy:

Unsure how long I'll remain logged in for, so will cut to the chase.

If you do the style depicted, I'd skip a breast pocket, and definitely skip two! :eek:

Quibbles: That's a wrap coat, I think I prefer a conventional buckle, and the belt is to long/big anyway.

Do two inside pockets in the lining, and have them made deep enough, can be very useful.

Most important: This is a relaxed, roomy style, and its aesthetic is dependent on it. If you attempt a shrink-wrapped fashionable fit, it will likely completely screw it up.

Edit: A fly front can look good on this style, and I would prefer it.

Double edit: Give the slash pockets more of an angle.
 

delicious_scent

Super Member
I'm back! :happy:

Unsure how long I'll remain logged in for, so will cut to the chase.

If you do the style depicted, I'd skip a breast pocket, and definitely skip two! :eek:

Quibbles: That's a wrap coat, I think I prefer a conventional buckle, and the belt is to long/big anyway.

Do two inside pockets in the lining, and have them made deep enough, can be very useful.

Most important: This is a relaxed, roomy style, and its aesthetic is dependent on it. If you attempt a shrink-wrapped fashionable fit, it will likely completely screw it up.

Edit: A fly front can look good on this style, and I would prefer it.

Double edit: Give the slash pockets more of an angle.
Oh yes, no exterior breast pockets, two inside pockets in the lining is basically what I meant by interior chest pockets.

I find I never use buckles, even if they're present. The trench coat I own I just tie the same way.

Speaking of, that's a similiar wrap style, and while I like the roominess and drape, I notice it doesn't look as good worn open, nor can I only wear just a shirt underneath.



So I think going for an overall fit that's less roomy than that, but not slim, would be preferable. So basically the picture off B&Tailor.
 

delicious_scent

Super Member
I don't know what I did to the rest of my post, so here is the rest.

Unsure of fly front. I think fly front looks best when belted, but I also plan on wearing the coat unbelted+open as well, and I think standard buttoning may look better there.

More angled slash pockets make sense to me, I didn't notice how vertical the ones up there were.

Another problem I have with the trench is the tendency for the sweep/bottom of the coat to flare out. Not a fan of that, I'd rather the silhouette look more "straight".

Simon's coat looks to have a contemporary cut, not slim or full, and it seems to look fine. Granted, it is open and not closed so I can't tell



On the website it looks a little too trim though
 
Last edited:
Your email address will not be publicly visible. We will only use it to contact you to confirm your post.

IMPORTANT: BEFORE POSTING PLEASE CHECK THE DATE OF THE LAST POST OF THIS THREAD. IF IT'S VERY OLD, PLEASE CONSIDER REGISTERING FIRST, AND STARTING A NEW THREAD ABOUT THIS TOPIC.