eagle2250

Connoisseur/Curmudgeon Emeritus - Moderator
Nice rig....except for, perhaps, the tie and out of respect for the poster, I won't mention the pocket square....but if I did it would be something along the lines that pocket squares should be reserved for suits......formal suits and for Tweeds, if you feel you must stuff something in that breast pocket, have a pair of classic Tortoiseshell glasseshanging over the edge of that pocket. ;)
 

Fading Fast

Connoisseur
Nice rig....except for, perhaps, the tie and out of respect for the poster, I won't mention the pocket square....but if I did it would be something along the lines that pocket squares should be reserved for suits......formal suits and for Tweeds, if you feel you must stuff something in that breast pocket, have a pair of classic Tortoiseshell glasseshanging over the edge of that pocket. ;)
The Tweed itself is stunning. Love to find something like that today (which could then join all my other sport coats hanging idle in my closet). Appreciate the PS comment :) . If not a pair of tortoiseshell glasses (I like that idea), how 'bout a watch chain looped from the lapel button to a pocket watch in the breast pocket?
 

delicious_scent

Super Member
While awaiting my coat to be made, I keep finding images made up from other cloths that are the same weight from Marling & Evans.

This one is from Simon James Cathcart, seems to be a group MTO available on their website. Check out the unique slanted patch pockets.

 

Fading Fast

Connoisseur
Thanks man.

I wonder how long this process usually takes, as I have no idea. He's a local tailor.

Also curious to see how the pattern matching turns out by the shoulder area. He did say he'd contact me if raglan sleeves didn't work with his pattern.
I hope he can do the raglan sleeves for you as they are such a wonderful part of the overall look. That said, I have a Pendleton one without raglan sleeves that I love..
 

delicious_scent

Super Member
I hope he can do the raglan sleeves for you as they are such a wonderful part of the overall look. That said, I have a Pendleton one without raglan sleeves that I love..
Agreed. Half the appeal is the thick patterned tweed look for me, and the other half is the slouchy natural shoulders.

Any pictures of that Pendleton?
 

delicious_scent

Super Member
The only mirrors we have in our 1928 apartment are from 1928, so I apologize for the poor picture clarity of the larger shot.
View attachment 50391 View attachment 50392 View attachment 50393
Fading, that is an amazing piece of outerwear. I know you love black/white herringbone tweeds, so from my point of view, that is a signature coat.

The shoulders look nice and soft too, that gives me some relief that my own coat will turn out well even if I have to go set-in sleeves. It has a nice straight silhouette that I dig too. My pause for set-in sleeves was probably due to my own current tweed coat coat having prominent roped shoulders, and I'm not a fan.

I did opt for a slightly bigger silhouette than originally intended for the upcoming coat because the test OTR coat felt too tight with a slimmer fit when raising my arms. Tailor suggested a clean back too, no upper back inverted pleat. I made sure to emphasize no skirt/sweep flaring either.

I love the unrepentantly beefy patch pockets too, most coats these days have tiny ones. I'm guessing that's because most coats now are shorter so bigger pockets may look unbalanced, but I'm not a fan regardless.

Finally, the length is perfect. Looks like some nice boots beneath the coat in the first picture.

No worries on the picture quality either, I got the gist of it. My phone is a potato and takes bad ones.
 

Fading Fast

Connoisseur
Fading, that is an amazing piece of outerwear. I know you love black/white herringbone tweeds, so from my point of view, that is a signature coat.

The shoulders look nice and soft too, that gives me some relief that my own coat will turn out well even if I have to go set-in sleeves. It has a nice straight silhouette that I dig too. My pause for set-in sleeves was probably due to my own current tweed coat coat having prominent roped shoulders, and I'm not a fan.

I did opt for a slightly bigger silhouette than originally intended for the upcoming coat because the test OTR coat felt too tight with a slimmer fit when raising my arms. Tailor suggested a clean back too, no upper back inverted pleat. I made sure to emphasize no skirt/sweep flaring either.

I love the unrepentantly beefy patch pockets too, most coats these days have tiny ones. I'm guessing that's because most coats now are shorter so bigger pockets may look unbalanced, but I'm not a fan regardless.

Finally, the length is perfect. Looks like some nice boots beneath the coat in the first picture.

No worries on the picture quality either, I got the gist of it. My phone is a potato and takes bad ones.
Thank you. Your comments nailed the shoulders perfectly as they are soft and not roped, so while not being my preferred raglan, they look good to my eye - and feel good when wearing the coat.

I, too, love the big patch pockets as they very much say, "I'm not a refined top coat for a fancy night out; instead, I'm a work-a-day overcoat to get the job done." And the pockets are incredibly functional as they hold a lot and are easy to access (I didn't know how great big patch pockets are until I got this coat). And, IMO, they look freakin' great.

Agreed on the length and line as well. Also, the collar "pops" and holds well. For me, the only collar I'll ever "pop" is on an overcoat as it serves a function to further protect your neck and the back of your head from wind and cold.

I really love this coat.

Now, I'm even more excited about your coat, any ETA?

Regarding the boots, thank you for your comment. They are from Sperry via a partnership it had with J.Crew. They've become my go-to everyday boot when not dressing up. Being J.Crew, I got them on sale (just sub $100) and bought a second pair six months or so later on the next sale just as a back up pair (partnership products at J.Crew tend to go on sale less frequently than the regular J.Crew stuff, which goes on sale every other week or so).

I don't think they are making them (at least in partnership with J.Crew) anymore, but J.Crew does have a few sizes left.
 

delicious_scent

Super Member
Thank you. Your comments nailed the shoulders perfectly as they are soft and not roped, so while not being my preferred raglan, they look good to my eye - and feel good when wearing the coat.

I, too, love the big patch pockets as they very much say, "I'm not a refined top coat for a fancy night out; instead, I'm a work-a-day overcoat to get the job done." And the pockets are incredibly functional as they hold a lot and are easy to access (I didn't know how great big patch pockets are until I got this coat). And, IMO, they look freakin' great.

Agreed on the length and line as well. Also, the collar "pops" and holds well. For me, the only collar I'll ever "pop" is on an overcoat as it serves a function to further protect your neck and the back of your head from wind and cold.

I really love this coat.

Now, I'm even more excited about your coat, any ETA?

Regarding the boots, thank you for your comment. They are from Sperry via a partnership it had with J.Crew. They've become my go-to everyday boot when not dressing up. Being J.Crew, I got them on sale (just sub $100) and bought a second pair six months or so later on the next sale just as a back up pair (partnership products at J.Crew tend to go on sale less frequently than the regular J.Crew stuff, which goes on sale every other week or so).

I don't think they are making them (at least in partnership with J.Crew) anymore, but J.Crew does have a few sizes left.
The patch pockets look big enough to hold a wallet, keys, and big cellphone, and still have room left over to plunge your hands in. I can't say the same for most coats today!

Is there anything special about the collar build? I was also looking for a poppable collar, and Simon from Permanent Style mentioned putting in an insert in a collar for a bespoke coat. I brought this up to my tailor and said he found it unnecessary.

I gave my tailor a call and he said he'll let me know in a couple weeks for the first fitting. Sounds like raglan is a go too!

That sounds like a damn good deal on those boots, especially with the backup pair. I'm always a sucker for pictures, could you post a full shot of them in one of our various shoe threads?

I've a pair of Red Wing Beckmans that basically serve the same purpose for me, but the toe is quite bulbous and chunky.

The moccasin shoes also look very nice. I've always wanted a pair, but unfortunately I need strong arch support due to my bad feet.
 

Fading Fast

Connoisseur
The patch pockets look big enough to hold a wallet, keys, and big cellphone, and still have room left over to plunge your hands in. I can't say the same for most coats today!

Is there anything special about the collar build? I was also looking for a poppable collar, and Simon from Permanent Style mentioned putting in an insert in a collar for a bespoke coat. I brought this up to my tailor and said he found it unnecessary.

I gave my tailor a call and he said he'll let me know in a couple weeks for the first fitting. Sounds like raglan is a go too!

That sounds like a damn good deal on those boots, especially with the backup pair. I'm always a sucker for pictures, could you post a full shot of them in one of our various shoe threads?

I've a pair of Red Wing Beckmans that basically serve the same purpose for me, but the toe is quite bulbous and chunky.

The moccasin shoes also look very nice. I've always wanted a pair, but unfortunately I need strong arch support due to my bad feet.
The patches are so big and functional that it's almost like having a briefcase built into the coat.

I'm not knowledgable enough to speak in detail, but the collar is definitely lined/supported with something that allows it to stay up (as you see in the pics) in a natural, not-stiff, way - it rolls softly when up. It is the perfect balance of structure and softness.

Great to here it's a go on the raglan sleeves.

Re the Chukkas, here is the J.Crew link and a pic (yes, they come wonderfully scuffed like that - I put mink oil on them once a year and that's it):
F6170_EF9646.jpeg


https://www.jcrew.com/us/p/mens_category/shoes_sneakers/boots/sperry-for-jcrew-chukka-boots/F6170?color_name=chinook-brown&noPopUp=true&srccode=Paid_Search|Smart_Shopping|Google|SS_ACQ_MPROD_SHOESxxxxxxxx_EVG_ROAS_XXX_COUSA_EN_EN_A_CREW_GO_SH_SSC_xxxxxxxxxx,shop_mshoes_x_xxx,PRODUCT_GROUP,71700000073582938,58700006374250879,p57824858494&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Paid_Search&utm_campaign=SS_ACQ_MPROD_SHOESxxxxxxxx_EVG_ROAS_XXX_COUSA_EN_EN_A_CREW_GO_SH_SSC_xxxxxxxxxx,shop_mshoes_x_xxx&utm_content=Shopping&NoPopUp=True&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=CjwKCAjw_sn8BRBrEiwAnUGJDvpn91_DR1llHP4C83BJMVbQbYb6ykCm968w6r08mtTwPCGNfgqpvBoCbO8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I, too, have flat feet, but have found with Dr. Scholl's arch support inserts (about $10 at the big discount chains online), I can wear just about any no-arch shoe like these. They have made a huge difference for me. Maybe they could help you too.
https://www.drscholls.com/p/pain-relief/orthotics-for-arch-pain/
 

delicious_scent

Super Member
The patches are so big and functional that it's almost like having a briefcase built into the coat.

I'm not knowledgable enough to speak in detail, but the collar is definitely lined/supported with something that allows it to stay up (as you see in the pics) in a natural, not-stiff, way - it rolls softly when up. It is the perfect balance of structure and softness.

Great to here it's a go on the raglan sleeves.

Re the Chukkas, here is the J.Crew link and a pic (yes, they come wonderfully scuffed like that - I put mink oil on them once a year and that's it):
View attachment 50417

https://www.jcrew.com/us/p/mens_category/shoes_sneakers/boots/sperry-for-jcrew-chukka-boots/F6170?color_name=chinook-brown&noPopUp=true&srccode=Paid_Search|Smart_Shopping|Google|SS_ACQ_MPROD_SHOESxxxxxxxx_EVG_ROAS_XXX_COUSA_EN_EN_A_CREW_GO_SH_SSC_xxxxxxxxxx,shop_mshoes_x_xxx,PRODUCT_GROUP,71700000073582938,58700006374250879,p57824858494&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Paid_Search&utm_campaign=SS_ACQ_MPROD_SHOESxxxxxxxx_EVG_ROAS_XXX_COUSA_EN_EN_A_CREW_GO_SH_SSC_xxxxxxxxxx,shop_mshoes_x_xxx&utm_content=Shopping&NoPopUp=True&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=CjwKCAjw_sn8BRBrEiwAnUGJDvpn91_DR1llHP4C83BJMVbQbYb6ykCm968w6r08mtTwPCGNfgqpvBoCbO8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I, too, have flat feet, but have found with Dr. Scholl's arch support inserts (about $10 at the big discount chains online), I can wear just about any no-arch shoe like these. They have made a huge difference for me. Maybe they could help you too.
https://www.drscholls.com/p/pain-relief/orthotics-for-arch-pain/
Ok, that gives me enough information to communicate to my tailor. If I find the collar is floppy, I can just ask him to line it to give it some structure and see what he says.

I've experimented with orthotics in the past and found they take up too much volume and then consequently make shoes too tight for me unfortunately.

Though it sounds like the lesson here is I need to check out J. Crew more frequently, ironically, despite them declaring bankruptcy. I've always viewed them as overpriced in the past and never looked beyond that to look at sales.

They seem to carry nice field jackets too for $250-300. Weird how I'm willing to pay so much more now despite not having more income.
 

Fading Fast

Connoisseur
Ok, that gives me enough information to communicate to my tailor. If I find the collar is floppy, I can just ask him to line it to give it some structure and see what he says.

I've experimented with orthotics in the past and found they take up too much volume and then consequently make shoes too tight for me unfortunately.

Though it sounds like the lesson here is I need to check out J. Crew more frequently, ironically, despite them declaring bankruptcy. I've always viewed them as overpriced in the past and never looked beyond that to look at sales.

They seem to carry nice field jackets too for $250-300. Weird how I'm willing to pay so much more now despite not having more income.
Maybe try the orthotics again as they've made them lighter and smaller than they were even five years ago. I would just like you to have the success with them that I've had as they've allowed me to wear shoes I had to stop wearing.

J.Crew is a on-sale-only purchase, but on sale, I've found there to be great value.
 
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