Nathan Detroit

Senior Member
I’ve not been able to find much interest on this forum in Bavarian/ Austrian Loden overcoats, which are a big “trad” thing in Europe, not only Germany and Austria but also Italy, France, Britain... On the slim chance anyone else is interested, you can perhaps add to this…

As far as I can tell, the Big Three are

1, the creator, Munich’s Loden-Frey, www.lodenfrei.com. I bought a very traditional Loden sportcoat in 1992, absolutely love it still. I hear LF has gone downhill in recent years, become very "modisch," produces lots of "Tramp-Tracht"… it has a very European Web site, utterly useless.

2, Vienna’s Loden-Plankl, www.loden-plankl.at. Coats for “gentlemen”: www.loden-plankl.at/english/kollektion/index.htm.

3, Salzburg’s Schneiders, another European-style Web site, www.schneiders.com/de/index/index.asp. Schneiders markets more actively to North America. I’ve seen some of their stuff, pretty elegant. I have a Schneiders Tracht sportcoat.

I don’t know much about Steinbock (Innsbruck), www.steinbock.at, but it’s another Web site that shows you lots of what some people take for sex appeal but few clothes…

About Salko I hear less; the original firm went out of business and the label is now owned by Christa, an operation that specializes in Tracht for women. I think it’s near Salzburg: www.christa-moden.at/index.php?mid=8.

I know northern Italian Loden exists, but I don’t know of any makers…

As to American distributors, the only one I’ve found is Landau at Princeton University, which carries Schneiders: www.landauprinceton.com/our-products/loden-coats.php. Does anybody know of any others?

Here are two really good articles on Loden coats. From the NY Times, 1981: https://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullp...3C1A967948260&sec=travel&spon=&pagewanted=all. The same newspaper, 1989: https://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullp...15751C1A96F948260&sec=&spon=&pagewanted=print
 

gar1013

Senior Member
Loden is really more of a Bayerisch / Austrian Trad item... with Bayerisch Trad being something that'd have been acceptable anytime between the late 19th century through the end of World War II.

While I really do like the more traditional items of clothing that Germany (and Austria) have to offer, I also find it seems to make one stand out quite a bit -- especially if you aren't living in a German-speaking country.
 

vwguy

Honors Member
Being of Austrian/Bavarian descent, this should be right up my alley, but some of the styles would be too costume-ish for me to wear outside of ethnic events.

Brian
 

Nathan Detroit

Senior Member
though I suspect I'm missing the point of this thread.
I guess I was just throwing out what links I had, hoping to get some more thrown back at me... I'd like to pick up a Loden overcoat in the next month or so.

I have two loden sport coats, rather subdued next to some of the ones you'll see at Oktoberfest, but they do stand out, but they're fine for some occasions, going to church, St. Patrick's Day, going to the opera, and not only Wagner, casual Fridays in late fall, early spring...
 
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longwing

Super Member
I guess I was just throwing out what links I had, hoping to get some more thrown back at me... I'd like to pick up a Loden overcoat in the next month or so.

I have two loden sport coats, rather subdued next to some of the ones you'll see at Oktoberfest, but they do stand out, but they're fine for some occasions, going to church, St. Patrick's Day, going to the opera, and not only Wagner, casual Fridays in late fall, early spring...
Nathan, My apologies. My response was ambiguous - or simply misleading. What I meant was that my post probably was missing the point of the thread. You were interested in discussing authentic loden coats from the British Isles and I was posting something, probably irrelevant, from Brooks Brothers. However, I am curious to know if the BB loden has the single pleat in the back.
 

williamson

Senior Member
Loden coat

There is a firm called Born for Loden in northern England which supplies Loden coats in many styles. I have their traditional long coat with an inverted pleat and have found it excellent in all respects.
The traditional Loden coat was a favourite of the former UK Foreign Secretary Douglas Hurd, who was criticised for wearing it by some of the more xenophobic elements in the British press.
 

TweedyDon

Connoisseur
These are interesting-looking coats. Can someone tell me more about their functionality? I wish the princeton place would've had photographs, and not just diagrams!
 

AlanC

Sartorial Sultan<br> Moderator, Trad Forum
I have a Loden-Frey duffel coat. I love it, but it's super heavy and is rarely worn. I'll try to snap a picture or two later.
 

hbs midwest

Super Member
Loden, continued.....

I originally purchased a Steinbock traditional Tyrolean coat from Lands' End (!!!?) about 22 years ago; wore it constantly, eventually wore out the collar, cuffs, and front edge...I replaced it last year with a coat by Schneiders of Salzburg--a somewhat dressier version of item no. 1.

Roger Stevens , 428 East Wisconsin Ave, Milwaukee, WI 53202 handles Schneiders, and will do special orders.
I have also seen Schneiders items in the Allen-Edmonds Shoe Bank stores in our area.

In all honesty, I think I actually prefer the more robust, outdoorsy character of the Steinbock; I have seen pictues of what appears to be my old friend on the Loden-Plankl website (there is an English version).

As for Northern Italy--that was Sudtyrol--South Tyrol, part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, until 1918, when Italy got it in return for being on the winning side in WWI. Until recently, at least, Italian was the second language of the region, with Tyrolese-dialect German the dominant vehicle of communication.

Good luck in your search...I really don't regard the coat in question as a costume prop, as I wear mine to work almost daily during the winter months.

hbs
 
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cgc

Senior Member
I have also seen Schneiders items in the Allen-Edmonds Shoe Bank stores in our area.
I recall that the AE Store on Michigan Ave here carried those for a brief time. Even on clearance they were pretty pricey and it was mainly jackets and not the big back pleat traditional coat.
 

septa

Senior Member
Do you know who made your Italian loden?
All it says insde is "100% italian casmere". I picked it up at a thrift store. However, I have been told by sveral older gents that it is the most beautiful loden coat they have seen. It has the classic stylling, although, I would like some staghorn buttons for it. Also, one time when I was wearing it, and my brother and I were at Stonehenge, some tourists came up to us and started asking us to take a picture of them--in German.
 

Nathan Detroit

Senior Member
If anyone is interested in Schneiders, their New York distributor is at 212/ 768-2137. I talked to them this morning and got numbers for stores selling their coats in Michigan and Baltimore... Landau near Princeton carries more of their line than anyone else in North America.
 

Pale Male

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
I Love Loden

Giesswein sold some coats at their 7th Avenue showroom. I didn't buy, but I told a few coworkers and they happily did. Don't know if they're still there.

Also, Press had a beautiful version of their sack sport coat in green and possibly gray loden with horn buttons. Living in post-collegiate squalor, I couldn't possibly buy at the time, though a graduate-school friend managed to get one from his parents as a Christmas gift. I don't know if they were available more than one year, but they were featured that winter in the windows on York Street.
 

dpihl

Super Member
Sorry to hear Loden Frey is making schlock. I used to love their catalog back in the 1980's.

Here in Salt Lake City, there were plenty of pioneer immigrants of Germanic descent. I find it odd that there have been so many stores selling German food, trinkets, and women's clothing (Lanz of Salzburg was a big hit), yet the only Germanic-inspired menswear you ever see for sale, is the Tyrolean hat. So I had to mail away for details about Loden Frey and others.

The Oktoberfest up at Snowbird has changed a lot over the years. Horst Fidel used to bring up his polka band every weekend from August until October. Art Brogli would play the accordion and yodel in German with a slight Austrian accent. Tamara Von Gladekovitch would bring up her folk dancing troupe. And Siegfied's Delicatessen brought all kinds of interesting treats. No idea where all the lederhosen and trachten came from, but half of the attendees were dressed to the nines in German-inspired clothing.

Nowadays when you go to Oktoberfest, there is one little booth that sells anything German. A mixture of merchandise from Scandinavia as well, but who's complaining? The rest of the merchants are selling things like Kimonos, rhinestone belt buckles, and jewelery made from typewriter keys. A guy from Ecuador was selling hair sticks he'd turned on a lathe in his garage. All very fun stuff, but not exactly authentic German fare.

Twenty booths selling imported and microbrewery beers, and a big tent where you can sit at a folding table and buy a ten dollar bratwurst.

I know Snowbird is used to things that go downhill fast, but I'm somehow longing for the days when my high school German club would frequent the Oktoberfest of years gone by.
 
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Lechner

Starting Member
Thanks to Ask Andy Forums I was able to finally track down Salko of Austria, the manufacturer of my beloved Austrian Loden Cloth Overcoat – the waterproof one I bought over twenty years ago, the one that wears like iron but is as soft as a baby’s blanket.

I finally got the car coat length version I’ve wanted all these years!


Here’s the really crazy part… In the process of buying the new coat, I became Salko’s Exclusive Representative for the entire United States.

My day job is developing and managing income property in San Francisco, but I became interested in reintroducing this venerable collection to America because it represents important values, like craftsmanship and durability.

Those of you who know loden coats know it’s a garment one passes on to number one son – because it’ll last that long and because he’ll wear it with pride …on the street, on the hunt or on the campus. It will never go out of style.

I don’t know jack about selling clothing but I think this brand deserves representation by the best merchants. I have no desire to see Salko dumped on the Sierra Trading Post. I’ve ruled out an otherwise obvious choice here in San Francisco because they are currently blowing out Barbour stock.

So, I am reaching out to Ask Andy Forums again, this time for your recommendations of retailers across the U.S. you’d suggest I talk to about Salko’s collection of Loden/Alpaca coats and jackets (https://www.christa-moden.at/index.php?mid=8&smid=26 )

Thanks again for your help.
 

127.72 MHz

Advanced Member
^ I'm sold. (Nearly) I love wool and wear it throughout our our wet Winters in the pacific northwest.

For starters how can I get a price list, at very least, covering the lines listed in the link you provided?

Thanks,
 
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