MTM Suit Material

jaydubbs15

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
My first MTM suit was from Suit Supply and I'm very pleased with it. My only gripe is that at the end of the work-day, the pants are very wrinkled and creased, especially in the girdle area. This may be the result of the form fitting style. I prefer a thicker, weightier, more substantial fabric. The suit is made from an Italian 110 thread count fabric in dark gray/charcoal; I don't know the weight and I forgot the name of the manufacturer. I believe that all of the wool is sourced from the same manufacturer. Perhaps I'll call and ask today. But the fit, options, are really great! Fully canvassed, real button holes on sleeves, etc., and they took the time to tailor the suit just right. I was going to go back to Suit Supply, but I thought I'd inquire about other options. I know many members of this board like Mr. Ned, but the fabric offerings have been given tepid reviews. I wouldn't want to pay more than $1000-$1100 in total. Has anyone had any success sourcing his own material for a custom tailor? The answer might be that a tailor needs to be very familiar with a fabric in order to ensure proper fit, yada, yada, yada, but what is more likely to be the case, in my opinion, is the inflexibility on price even if sourcing one's own material because of a suit-maker's volume discounts for material, and the need to maintain his margins.

Has anyone tried to source his own material for a MTM suit? If so, which materials and which custom tailor did you take the suit to? Alternatively, if I opt for Mr. Ned, then does anyone have suggestions on materials for a 3 season navy suit?

Thanks!

Jay
 

Bjorn

Moderator
CMT is quite possible. I would only go through the trouble for a really nice cloth, like fox flannels or jj minnis.
 

jaydubbs15

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
Thank you Bjorn. CMT (cut, make, and trim, I assume.) How does one go about doing that? Where would you recommend I do to buy the fabrics in NYC?

Jay
 

jaydubbs15

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
Thank you arkirshner! How much material does one buy for a suit? Do you know of a MTM tailor who will operate this way?
 

arkirshner

Honors Member
A custom tailor who makes a patterns just for you and actually cuts garments from the cloth needs less than a MTM who does not make an individual pattern for you. A master tailor needs about 3 3/4 yards (60 in wide fabric) for a 2 piece suit, you will want 4 yards to be safe, 5 yards for a three piece. Pattern cloth requires more than solid. Here is a chart by an internet MTM firm that does not have true master tailors cutting the cloth. You see they need more cloth. You should first decide on a tailor and then ask him what he requires.

I do not know anyone in NY who will use customer's material. I'd ask Izzy of LS if he would. If he won't, I would ask him for suggestions.

https://www.ravistailor.com/cmt_instructions.php?page_request=CMT#chart
 
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jaydubbs15

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
A custom tailor who makes a patterns just for you and actually cuts garments from the cloth needs less than a MTM who does not make an individual pattern for you. A master tailor needs about 3 3/4 yards (60 in wide fabric) for a 2 piece suit, you will want 4 yards to be safe, 5 yards for a three piece. Pattern cloth requires more than solid. Here is a chart by an internet MTM firm that does not have true master tailors cutting the cloth. You see they need more cloth. You should first decide on a tailor and then ask him what he requires.

I do not know anyone in NY who will use customer's material. I'd ask Izzy of LS if he would. If he won't, I would ask him for suggestions.

https://www.ravistailor.com/cmt_instructions.php?page_request=CMT#chart

Thank you akirshner for the info and suggestions. Do you have any recommendations re: material for a 3 season navy suit? Is this the wrong way to go? Has anyone else explored doing this? I'd hate to pay $1100 for a suit made of mediocre material. Is that just unavoidable at this price point? Would I be better off hunting down a past year's Zegna suit and finding a good tailor to alter it?
 

arkirshner

Honors Member
There are thousands and thousands of fabrics, more possibilities than there are women in the largest club. I don't know which cloth you should pick any more than which woman you should chase. Lets just say there are quite a few good choices of both cloth and women. I do have a couple of thoughts though. First, don;t get sucked in to the numbers game. The super numbers just refer to the diameter of the fiber making up the thread. The numbers game is just a marketing ploy, a higher the number does not mean better cloth. There are quite a few threads on the subject that can be found by the search feature. Actually,the higher the number the more likely it is to wrinkle. Second, it is important to consider the weight of the cloth, the heavier the cloth the better it drapes. Third, different weaves have different characteristics in look, feel, and wearability.

I suggest you go to one of the fabric merchants and spend an hour or two just looking at and feeling cloth in your hand to get a sense of what looks and feels better to you and get a sense of what different fabrics costs.
 
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