NYU Fashion Conference


Arbiter CBDum
On December 2 & 3rd, New York University will host a conference on fashion in New York City. I will be one of the speakers, as will forum member a man of wealth and taste. My talk will be based in part on themes from my forthcoming book The Suit: A Machiavellian Approach to Men's Style, specifically Chapter 19, "Of the Difference Between Formality and Dandification."

For those interested, the information follows below. Or you can click on this link:


Dressing the Part:
A Conference in New York
Thursday – Saturday, December 1-3, 2005

“Dressing the Part†explores the feminine and masculine elements in fashion, their origins, influences on and current expressions of them. We examine both clothes for women and men.

In the 18th century, men's clothing was as embellished as women’s. Style setters (e.g., Beau Brummel) and the military’s use of decoration and cut to indicate rank, power and authority contributed to the importance of men's attire.

Although they also celebrated female beauty, visual artists and photographers from Sargent to Horst and Cecil Beaton also capture male elegance. Film stars, such as Valentino, Cooper, and Astaire, have also inspired today’s designers, including Armani and Lauren. Elements of male attire were used by designers and tastemakers such as Chanel, and worn by stars such as Hepburn and Dietrich.

Contemporary designers have championed the romantic ultra-feminine ideal inspired by movies such as Gone with the Wind, sweater girls such as Lana Turner, and todays celebrities among them Nicole Kidman. Versace glamorized and sexualized the female with form-fitting, revealing clothing. Lang and Alaia used new materials to create clothes that emphasized the female form, while Beene's cuts and approaches to symmetry defined a modern femininity. Other designers blur and combine the masculine and feminine. Victor and Rolf create variations of menswear and design outerwear cocoons that reveal layers of glamorous, femininity. In his jackets and trousers, Ghesquière for Balenciaga combines the male uniform, with the Houses traditional interest in the classic feminine.

Acknowledging the renewed importance of men’s fashion, we also consider houses that design for both men and women, among them Etro, Ralph Lauren, and Donna Karan. Establishments such as Hermès which started making accoutrements for the sporting life in the 19th-century, create relaxed fashions with a look suitable for both men and women, while others that began with accessories, among them Gucci and Louis Vuitton, embrace men’s and women’s fashion designs that are clearly distinct from a gender perspective. This conference counts as one 5 session elective toward the Appraisal Studies in Fine and Decorative Arts certificate program.

The conference is organized by Lisa Koenigsberg, advisor to the Dean for Arts Initiatives and adjunct professor of the arts, NYU (SCPS), who established the NYU series of fashion conferences; she is the founder and President of Initiatives in Art and Culture.


Head of the Chambre Syndicale, Didier Grumbach
Legendary Designer, Emanuel Ungaro
Designer, Zac Posen
Designer, Kean Etro
Designer, Einar Holilokk, Geoffrey Beene
Designer, Koos Van den Akker
Designers, Richard Lambertson and John Truex
Creative director, Michael Vollbracht, Bill Blass
Iris Barrel Apfel, legendary collector and one of the most vivacious personalities in the worlds of fashion, textiles, and interior design whose collection is currently on display at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, in the exhibition, Rara Avis: Selections from the Iris Barrel Apfel Collection
Jeweler, Luz Camino
Fashion Historian and Vanity Fair Contributing Editor, Laura Jacobs
Curator and Museum Director, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, Valerie Steele
Pamela Clarke Keogh, author; Elvis Presley: The Man, The Life, The Legend (2004), the first authorized biography of Elvis Presley and a book on Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Jackie Style (2001)
Joan DeJean, author, The Essence of Style: How the French Invented High Fashion, Fine Food, Chic Cafes, Style, Sophistication, and Glamour and Professor, University of Pennsylvania
Research associate with The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute, Stéphane Houy-Towner
Annette Tapert, author; among her publications are The Power of Glamour: The Women Who Defined The Magic of Stardom (1998) and The Power of Style: The Women Who Defined the Art of Living Well (with D. Edkins, 1994)
Reema Keswani, author, Shinde Jewels, and owner, GOLCONDA, New York
Noted Author and Memoirist, Francine du Plessix Gray, who has written about her parents Alexander and Tatiana Liberman
Legendary Editor, Grace Mirabella
Nicholas Antongiavanni, author The Suit: A Machiavellian Approach to Men's Style (HarperCollins, forthcoming 2006); leading authority on bespoke men's tailoring and the fine points of men's sartorial tradition and creation, he also writes columns under his own name Michael Anton.
Fashion and trend forecaster David Wolfe, the Doneger Group
Fashion Journalist, June Weir
New York based columnist, Dandyism.net and freelance writer and critic, Nick Willard
Theatre and dance costume designer, Willa Kim

Registration - The conference fee is $355, please call (212) 998-7137 to register by phone or visit the website at www.scps.nyu.edu/fashion or fax the completed form below to (212) 935-6911, 24 hours a day or mail to: NYU/SCPS Budget Office, 25 West 4th Street Room 203, New York, NY 10012 or email the information below to Lisa Koenigsberg at [email protected] or Patrick Vega at [email protected] . A discounted rate is available for full-time students with ID. For full-time students with ID the conference fee is $160. To receive the discounted rate you must call 212-998-7137.
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