L-feld

Advanced Member
I guess I'm starting this one off with some pretty underwhelming stuff. In the mail, I received a package from Lands End and a package from Dann Online.

From Lands End I received a pair of long rise chinos. I was kind of disappointed that even their long rise traditional fit is still shorter in the crotch than what I'm used to from Bills or O'Connell's. They're also kind of large in the waist, I suppose due to vanity sizing or whatever. Oh well, I guess you get what you pay for.

From Dann I received a pair of Berle pumpkin orange chinos, which I've been trying to find for a while. For whatever reason Eddie Jacobs, my usual source for Berle, couldn't obtain them. These are a real disappointment as apparently Berle has changed their fit and really shortened the crotch. I had assumed they would fit like all of my previous Berle trousers, so I ordered them pre-cuffed and I doubt I will be able to return them.

I think my lesson is that I should just get all of my pants from SSEW from now on, as they will give me the generous 12" rise I want and all I have to do is ask.

On a brighter note, today Chris at J. Press finalized my order for a custom unconstructed sport jacket from Southwick.
 

Duvel

Connoisseur
Looking forward to seeing that new jacket, L! Please post pictures.

I haven't had the issues you describe with your LE trousers, but we are all different, literally, corporally. LE took some trial and error for me, but I found that their regular fit looks, on me, like a higher rise than the long rise version. The reason: The long-rise is offered only in even-numbered waist sizes, 34, 36, etc. I fall between 34 and 36. If I get the 34 in the long rise, the rise is great but the waist is tight; if I get the 36, the waist is much too loose, so much so that I get bunching with a belt, and without a belt, the trousers would easily fall down.

However, a 35-inch waist in a regular fit gives me just enough ease that I can wear them at a reasonable rise without bunching and without tightness.

Here's another wrinkle, though. What I've describe above applies only to LE dress pants, e.g., twills and wools. In their chinos, on me, the LE long-rise in a 34 is perfection.

Yet another wrinkle--LE doesn't offer all colors in the long-rise, whether dress twills, wools, or chinos. Fewer waist sizes, fewer colors. We all understand the reason. And still... .

And still... when all is said and done, I love LE trousers for what they are--affordable, relatively trad in their look, and something that seems to fit me well.

What do I have to look forward to in acquisitions this month? Another couple of pairs of LE trousers--a houndstooth wool and a chestnut chino--and the dream of a Shetland from O'Connells. Oh, and a "deep red" Deansgate sack blazer courtesy TweedyDon.
 
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L-feld

Advanced Member
I'm not really that disappointed with the LE khakis. The fit is decent enough and I wasn't expecting to get Bills for $36. The fabric is a lot less stiff than what was at Sears, so maybe I was looking at a different pant, so that was a pleasant surprise. They're decent enough for the price and being readily available. I'm more pissed about the Berle, which were significantly more expensive. They do have some material in the crotch to let out, so I might be able to salvage them.

On a non-sartorial note, I picked this up:



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

Duvel

Connoisseur
Nice pipe! And apologies for my rambling post. That's what happens after three beers and getting excited about trousers, in my house.
 

orange fury

Connoisseur
I'm not really that disappointed with the LE khakis. The fit is decent enough and I wasn't expecting to get Bills for $36. The fabric is a lot less stiff than what was at Sears, so maybe I was looking at a different pant, so that was a pleasant surprise. They're decent enough for the price and being readily available. I'm more pissed about the Berle, which were significantly more expensive. They do have some material in the crotch to let out, so I might be able to salvage them.

On a non-sartorial note, I picked this up:



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I love Peterson, my first nice pipe was a Peterson 303 (p-lip) that I bought back in 2007- still one of my favorites
 

Shaver

Suspended
A beauty!

I'm not really that disappointed with the LE khakis. The fit is decent enough and I wasn't expecting to get Bills for $36. The fabric is a lot less stiff than what was at Sears, so maybe I was looking at a different pant, so that was a pleasant surprise. They're decent enough for the price and being readily available. I'm more pissed about the Berle, which were significantly more expensive. They do have some material in the crotch to let out, so I might be able to salvage them.

On a non-sartorial note, I picked this up:



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

Duvel

Connoisseur
I may get one of those. Even though I don't smoke, it sure would look nice in my tweed jacket pocket, and who knows--it could come in handy.
 

L-feld

Advanced Member
I heard that Southwick has a new unstructured option (i thought it was for the Cambridge fit). I can't wait to see it.
It's different than the Cambridge. It's a two button sack with french facing. It's marketed as "travel jacket," which must be some new industry buzzword, as that is how Empire markets their unconstructed, french faced sack.

Beyond that, I can't tell you much until it's actually made. The last jacket I got through them was a Douglas, which was a little more structured in the shoulders than I wanted.
 
It's different than the Cambridge. It's a two button sack with french facing. It's marketed as "travel jacket," which must be some new industry buzzword, as that is how Empire markets their unconstructed, french faced sack.

Beyond that, I can't tell you much until it's actually made. The last jacket I got through them was a Douglas, which was a little more structured in the shoulders than I wanted.

Ah, that makes sense. O'Connells has one labeled a travel blazer: https://www.oconnellsclothing.com/O-Connell-s-Soft-Shouldered-Wool-Travel-Blazer-Blue.html

I was looking into some Southwick MTM options and one of the sales guys that I spoke to said they had an unstructured Cambridge model available. I thought it would make a good choice for a cord coat.

Can't wait to see how it turns out!
 

L-feld

Advanced Member
Ah, that makes sense. O'Connells has one labeled a travel blazer: https://www.oconnellsclothing.com/O-Connell-s-Soft-Shouldered-Wool-Travel-Blazer-Blue.html

I was looking into some Southwick MTM options and one of the sales guys that I spoke to said they had an unstructured Cambridge model available. I thought it would make a good choice for a cord coat.

Can't wait to see how it turns out!
Yup, that's the Empire model I used for the jacket I got at the beginning of the summer from Eddie Jacobs. It came out beautifully. I figured I would switch it up for the fall (or because I have lot's of leave to burn and I needed an excuse to go hang out in DC).

Incidentally, J. Press actually has one jacket in that Empire model, but they don't do MTM through Empire for whatever reason. https://www.jpressonline.com/pressidential-sport-coat-grey-with-blue-brown-pane/ Beautiful fabric, but not versatile enough for my needs right now.

Southwick may very well have other unstructured models. I suppose they are "travel" jackets because they take up less room without all the padding and interlining? Otherwise, no clue why they call them that.
 

alkydrinker

Senior Member
^^I believe there is some history of calling unstructured jackets "travel jackets" - I vaguely remember companies like LL Bean and Orvis using that nomenclature in the past. I think maybe in the 80s and 90s an unstructured jacket was conceptually put in the category of something akin to a safari jacket, with the thinking it would be used by a modern man mostly for its pockets and for the fact it can stand up to the rigors of travel being that it's "not fancy". Although, those unstructured travel jackets of yore tended to be frumpy affairs.

In recent years, unstructured jackets have become a bit of a different animal - more a trendy and fashionable thing since they allowing a guy wear a jacket more casually and they have taken on a "cool" factor. I think using the term "travel jacket" is a bit of a throw back that no longer applies in the literal sense, though it may serve as a short cut for some older customers to recognize what kind of product it is.

Travel jackets of yore case in point:



 
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L-feld

Advanced Member
That's fascinating. Thanks for the info. If you come up with any more, please share!

I like unstructured jackets for both reasons. I think unstructured jackets can get a lot more wear because they read a little more casual and I love having the extra pockets. I broadly dislike stuffing my pants pockets full of stuff and I would much rather put my wallet and cell phone in the chest pockets of a jacket.

My general goal is to have a few jackets that are casual enough to wear anywhere without seeming pretentious and are comfortable and breathable enough that I never feel like I need to take them off.
 

alkydrinker

Senior Member
My general goal is to have a few jackets that are casual enough to wear anywhere without seeming pretentious...
I agree that unstructured jackets are a great asset for today's casual world. I find that there are degrees of unstructured and that term can be somewhat loosely applied. The two main categories for me are (1) jackets that are unlined, have very light structure, and formed shoulders albeit not really padded and (2) jackets with a 100% unstructured shirt-shoulder, that's literally just the cotton or wool resting on your shoulder with nothing else supporting it.

I personally like jackets from both categories, but found it very hard finding one in category 2 that fits well. Part of that is because I need a Long and they tend to be alpha sized or atleast not offered in Longs (e.g., pretty sure Keydges are not offered in Long sizes). After many online buys and returns, I just recently bought one of these below, from this company Hugh and Crye. It definitely suffers a little from short jacket/high button trendyness syndrom, but it's doable for me. The saving grace is the belly area hangs pretty straight with more closed quarters, giving it a vaguely ivy/sack vibe (while still being darted and slim)....I think open quarters and pulling at the button on something like this would make it too trendy and vulgar for my taste.



https://www.hughandcrye.com/#!/t/product/blazers
 
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YoungSoulRebel

Inactive user
Thanks for posting this link, I REALLY like those and the price is not bad at all.

I agree that unstructured jackets are a great asset for today's casual world. I find that there are degrees of unstructured and that term can be somewhat loosely applied. The two main categories for me are (1) jackets that are unlined, have very light structure, and formed shoulders albeit not really padded and (2) jackets with a 100% unstructured shirt-shoulder, that's literally just the cotton or wool resting on your shoulder with nothing else supporting it.

I personally like jackets from both categories, but found it very hard finding one in category 2 that fits well. Part of that is because I need a Long and they tend to be alpha sized or atleast not offered in Longs (e.g., pretty sure Keydges are not offered in Long sizes). After many online buys and returns, I just recently bought one of these below, from this company Hugh and Crye. It definitely suffers a little from short jacket/high button trendyness syndrom, but it's doable for me. The saving grace is the belly area hangs pretty straight with more closed quarters, giving it a vaguely ivy/sack vibe (while still being darted and slim)....I think open quarters and pulling at the button on something like this would make it too trendy and vulgar for my taste.



https://www.hughandcrye.com/#!/t/product/blazers
 

Reuben

Honors Member
I agree that unstructured jackets are a great asset for today's casual world. I find that there are degrees of unstructured and that term can be somewhat loosely applied. The two main categories for me are (1) jackets that are unlined, have very light structure, and formed shoulders albeit not really padded and (2) jackets with a 100% unstructured shirt-shoulder, that's literally just the cotton or wool resting on your shoulder with nothing else supporting it.

I personally like jackets from both categories, but found it very hard finding one in category 2 that fits well. Part of that is because I need a Long and they tend to be alpha sized or atleast not offered in Longs (e.g., pretty sure Keydges are not offered in Long sizes). After many online buys and returns, I just recently bought one of these below, from this company Hugh and Crye. It definitely suffers a little from short jacket/high button trendyness syndrom, but it's doable for me. The saving grace is the belly area hangs pretty straight with more closed quarters, giving it a vaguely ivy/sack vibe (while still being darted and slim)....I think open quarters and pulling at the button on something like this would make it too trendy and vulgar for my taste.



https://www.hughandcrye.com/#!/t/product/blazers
Would you mind sharing your numerical jacket size and the size you bought? A picture of it being worn would be great too!
 

alkydrinker

Senior Member
^^^Yeah, $195 is pretty competitive for something like this...I got lucky and hit a sale for $150 several weeks ago. I would say if you any doubt about their weird sizing, you should SIZE UP. I have the Tall/Athletic size...it is equal to a slim 42 Long. Based on their charts I was debating between Tall/Athletic and one size slimmer. However, there is no way I would want the jacket any slimmer.

Edit: Reuben, I just saw your post...so yeah, I am very much a middle-of-the-road 42 Long and the Tall/Athletic fits pretty well....it's slim-ish overall, but not restricting. I'll try to post a pic of myself with it on later.
 
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