Doctor Damage

Connoisseur
In this thread I am going to post a bunch of photos of bit loafers, of various brands and various types. I will start first with Gucci (obviously), then move on to others. The focus will be on classic bit loafers, and their close variants. I will also post some fake Gucci shoes, so that anyone who is buying on eBay will have a better idea of what to avoid.

To our members I ask that you reserve me the first half-dozen or so posts, so I can cover a few basic points.

DD
 

Doctor Damage

Connoisseur
The classic Gucci bit loafer has undergone an evolution, probably under the influence of Tom Ford's tenure at the company. Bit loafers from the early 90s and before were designated as below.

Below left is the 110-0009/3, and below right the 110-0010/3. Note the change in the shape of the toe box from left to right. Although not visible, the heel changes from a high but wedged heel in the 0009 to a high flat heel in the 0010.



The 110-0010 model seems to have continued largely unchanged as the following models.

Below is the 015937.



Below is the 015938, the current model, and the only one of the above still in production. I will post larger images of this model, but the photos below allow comparison with the preceding models above.



Personally, I suspect Ford's influence begins with the 110-0010 model with the blockier toe box and higher heels. This is essentially the modern "classic Gucci", as the model number changes are just that -- the design has not changed to the current model.

DD
 
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Doctor Damage

Connoisseur
Here are some good images of the basic Gucci classic loafers. This makes comparing the colours of the materials an easy matter.

015938




016343



 

Doctor Damage

Connoisseur
Here is a set of images, from an eBay seller.

This is the 110-0009, the precursor to the current model of Gucci bit loafer. I really love the older look of these models (long gone), with the lower heel and more rounded toe.



These are the 015938, new and used.






These are the 016343 models.




Next I shall post a few more pics of the lug sole version, then I shall post several recent Gucci models which look like the classic loafer, but were actually one-season-only models.

DocD
 
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Tom Rath

Senior Member
I can respect that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I can respect that everyone has different opinions when it comes to shoes and clothes. I can respect that variety is the spice of life. But for the life of me I just dont get these shoes. They are a perfect storm of flash, poor construction and unusual design. To each his own I suppose...
 

Topsider

Honors Member
No disrespect intended, but isn't there some sort of lower age limit as to when one can get away with wearing these? Whatever it is, I haven't reached it yet. ;)

Nice job with the research and photos, however. And hey, they're in the OPH, so they're alright with me.
 

familyman

Super Member
I know I shouldn't like these. I do though. Especially the older ones. The bit should be too much flash but it isn't. Even with lugs they look ok. I love the toe seam. They just have good balance or something.
I feel dirty. I need to go look at some Aldens to make myself feel clean again.
 

septa

Senior Member
There should be no shame in liking these shoes. I think much of the aversion to the house of Gucci, and to similar brands like Charvet and Hermes, is to what they have come to mean not what they once meant. As I understand it, in the era of high trad (50s-60s) these brands may have been a bit eccentric, bordering on louche, but hardly worthy of outrage. I think we might have the same reaction to sack suits and Aldens if they were favored by eurotwits.
In one of his novels, Auchincloss dresses his main character, an arch-WASP, in Charvet. Can't remember which one. Carefully brought into one's wardrobe the Gucci can be just the ticket.
 

Doctor Damage

Connoisseur
mcarthur said:
Doctor Damage, Thank you for your outstanding efforts on this project
Lots more stuff to come. LOTS more. I am intending to also post the various competitors who offer good, classic bit loafers as alternatives to Gucci, including the Alden versions.

Septa, I believe you are right. Gucci has become so closely associated with bling-bling crap, and rap/gangsters, and gay flash, such that more modest folks have an automatic reaction of horror when hearing the name. But once upon a time, only the wealthy and well-dressed wore the shoes, even though the price was never outrageous. And the old ones were really well constructed (photos will prove that, stay tuned).

DocD
 

Duck

Super Member
I have a black pair of Cole Haan's and an older brown pair of Gucci's. I absolutely love both pairs but I always wear them in more casual outfits. The Gucci's are the most comfortable shoes that I own.
 

Doctor Damage

Connoisseur
Time for some super mega big images of the 015938 and 016343 models. These are from Jap/Korean websites, so it's possible they are fakes, but if so they capture the look perfectly (I believe these are real -- the Gucci fakes are pretty obvious).

----------------

015938





----------------

016343





 

Doctor Damage

Connoisseur
Here are some recent Gucci models which strongly resemble the classic model, but with slight variations. The group of three below is the 015938, 157440, and 155182. Note that the second two were introduced in 2006 and seem to be revivals of older Gucci models, at least in terms of the proportions.



Here are two views of the 157440 model, which is still available from Gucci and looks to be a long-term addition to their "classic" range. Personally, I really like this model.



Below is another recent model, possibly 2005 only (my records show). This is the 115316 model, and came in black and brown, leather & suede, and both leather and rubber lug soles. Note the long pointed toes, longer heels, and double rows of stitching on the "beefroll". On the sole, note the 8 nails in the heel (the classic models have only 4 nails).





Here are two more views of the 115316 models.




Later I shall post more photos of all of the models above, from Jap/Korean sources and from eBay.

This probably seems a lot of useless trivia, but for those who might be interested in buying from eBay, it is worthwhile being aware of the various models, so you know what you are looking at.

DocD
 

Doctor Damage

Connoisseur
That's pretty much it. I have a lot more photos of all of the models posted above, plus the variants made of the Gucci canvas/cloth -- if anyone is keen on these (or any other models), please message me and I will provide images.

For those who are eBaying, I will post some fake Gucci shoes later in this thread, but I recommend studying the photos above as a reference. I will post many used/vintage Gucci shoes, and competitors too, for reference. If you know your size, you can sometimes find some stellar bit loafers on eBay, often never worn.

I will also post some of the competitors, including Alden, Allen-Edmonds, Cole-Haan, Church's, and Peter Huber.

So...let's start posting whatever weird bit loafers we know about, or have spotted on eBay, and we can grow this thread into a useful (and fun) collection of images like the "tassel loafer" thread. For those who own bit loafers (of any brand), please post your comments, particularly regarding fit vis-a-vis common shoes such as Weejuns, etc., for those who are buying on eBay.

Regards,
DocD
 

jml90

Super Member
I have a pair of Footjoy bit loafers in tan which I love and usually wear once a week. They resemble the shape of the Alden full strap or my J&M tassels.
 

EastVillageTrad

Super Member
I have the Alden Cape Cod bit loafer in black calfskin, wear it with a navy blazer, suits and even formal wear.

I can't ever bring myself to don a Gucci anything or my stomach would turn.

These Aldens aren't a bad shoe.

 
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