On... Out Door events & Such

Tutee

New Member
...hmmm lets see… Okay right! So, its been a long while since I have posted anything here and since some of you have asked me to write something… well here it is. Two very nice pieces on Out of Town wear, including country wear, university wear and sporty / horsey wear. All of these 3 topics are greatly linked together for historic reasons, which I need not go in at this moment (although I have described them in the past).

Anyways, the point is that there lies a great overlap/ cross-over between these above mentioned venues of men’s apparel. Of course the distinction between them is hardly observable, if et all. What is presented below was written in 30s’ AA issues and as such you need not waste countless hours worrying about the correctness of such articles anymore (however, if you want to.. I for one will certainly be very pleased). Consider them some alternative options to what most you are already used to. To me they are a lot more than mere options but that is a different matter.

Study them very carefully and see why something was “working” in a particular combination. Try to incorporate these finer details in your style once you have understood the significance of it (or maybe not). Either way… as always don’t do something just because you saw somebody do it or a latest fad dictated it.

I have divided this post into two sections for clarity

So… here we go. Read on! Hope you like it.

From spring of 35’

OUTDOORS FOR SALE

If spring fever were restricted to school children, men would be content to remain indoors; but it isn’t and they aren’t—and therein lies a merchandising opportunity

Spring is a season of reawakening: the fresh soil gives up a scent of living and growing things and tiny green buds begin to peep out here and there. It is also a season during which retailers can sell a lot of apparel.

Less poetic though the thought may be, it is with the latter rather than the former subject that this article is concerned. But the two thoughts are by no means entirely unrelated. That perennial malady known as spring fever, which adults like to attribute to school children but which they never quite outgrow themselves, has more to do with the selling of clothes than most people are inclined to think.

The season that brings men out of doors, after a long winter of semi-hibernation, is also the season that puts them into clothes of a definitely out of doors type country clothes, to put a more specific tag on the classification of apparel under discussion here. And while there is nothing new within the memory of the oldest living citizen as far as spring and its effect on man’s sartorial reawakening are concerned, there is something new in the trend in country clothes, not merely from a fashion standpoint but also with respect to its status in the general merchandising scheme of things.

For one thing, the past few years have witnessed a subtle but radical transition in men’s dress which has a direct application to country clothes. This transition has partially expressed itself in an increased predominance of rough, soft tweeds, Shetlands and similar fabrics at the expense of hard finished worsteds. Models too have changed to a considerable extent from stiff conservative lines to all types of fancy sport back garments. In the wake have followed colored shirts with bold patterns, woolen and knitted neckwear, rough felt hats, brown buckskin shoes and other articles of apparel of the same type.

Especially interesting is the definite demand for a “town-cum-country” type of dress, and it can almost be said that to keep pace with the best dressed men one must seem to have just come “in from the country. In general, the increased vogue for country clothes is far more than a flash in the pan far more than a one-season novelty. Much to the advantage of the retailer who recognizes a broadened avenue of profit when he sees one, country clothes have established themselves as on the way to becoming as much a staple, in their way, is business clothes have always been.

To be sure, various articles in the country clothes category have seemed to behave more like novelties than like staples.

But in many cases, treasonable though it may sound, this has been more the fault of retailers and manufacturers than of the much-maligned consumer or, for that matter, the basic trend that brought those articles to the forefront.

Two or three seasons ago, woolen neckwear took on considerable importance from a selling standpoint and, in fact, scaled the mercantile heights. Then, for some reason or other, manufacturers almost arbitrarily concluded that its day was done and diverted much of their efforts into other channels. Today, paradoxically enough, the latent demand for woolen neckwear exceeds the desire of producers and dealers to cater to it.

What manufacturers and retailers alike frequently fail to realize is that after a new article of apparel has enjoyed two or three seasons of success, it is not necessarily doomed to oblivion. It may, at the end of that time, achieve the position of a staple. Past performances are usually a good basis for future judgment, but previous experience in analogous cases should never become so solidified and hidebound is to occasion the discontinuance of something new almost from force of habit.

To the extent that woolen neckwear, plaid shirts and other accessories of the country clothes type have not yet achieved the position of staples, it can be said that this partial failure hinges on the neglect of the apparel industry to provide them with that status. It may be an extreme statement to say that just as men were acquiring a liking for clothes of this type, they were taken away from them; but that statement is true in effect if not in the matter of literal and specific practice. The moral is that retailers shouted study these new fashions with a view toward incorporating them in their stocks as staple merchandise for specific occasions. These occasions, together with the clothing that pertains to them, may not be so well defined and so commercially vocal as they will be in the future, but, like the telephone, they are here to stay.

The mere fact, however, that manufacturers and retailers in many instances look at a major trend and regard it as a minor tendency does not make it so. The major trends in country clothes are favorable ones and can prove as profitable as they are lasting. But needless to say, the benefits from this market will not distribute themselves with impartial hand to all retailers alike. As has always been the case, to the aggressive merchant will go the spoils. And even more to be prized than aggressiveness in the merchandising of country clothes is intelligence—intelligence in the all-important matter of selling the right clothes for the right occasion.

A true understanding of this essential phase in the merchandising of country clothes may perhaps best be based on a knowledge of the origin and development of that type of apparel. Country fashions originate in England and Scotland. The men in England who are considered style leaders are usually members of the aristocracy and are often extensive landowners. They spend a great deal of their time at their country seats in the shires and provinces and dung the season they occupy themselves in riding, shooting and similar country activities with the result that traditions in country wear are continually being built up.

Country clothes in England are not sharply differentiated from town clothes in model but they are as applies to fabric. With respect to’ model, for instance, a man going shooting in England might wear a three-button notched lapel jacket cut along lines similar to his ordinary lounge jacket, the jacket naturally being of a looser cut, due to the bulk of the tweed, and with larger pockets. Instead of long trousers, knickers would be worn, not so much as a matter of style as of practicality.

Their shirts are similar in model to those worn m town, but are usually of flannel, while the shoes are naturally heavier models. Today in England, where formality has always been at a premium, one nevertheless finds a marked preference for the casual, more or less “countrified” type of dress. Not at all unusual in town is the sight of a man wearing a light weight tweed suit with a bowler, a pair of brown suede shoes and often a dark sleeveless sweater replacing the waistcoat.

The brown tweed jacket and grey flannel trouser combination that was introduced into this country by Princeton undergraduates was perhaps the real beginning of the adoption of English country clothes, and the interest in shaggy, rough tweeds for campus wear at well known Eastern universities went far in communicating itself to the nation as a whole. These students accepted the English country clothes as they were, and are still wearing them without any radical change in model.

Unfortunately, the same fidelity was not shared by some American manufacturers who, falling in with the idea of producing tweed sport suits, patterned their models after the rather dubious precedent set by the favorite movie stars, instead of going to the source for their inspiration. Entirely devoid of any authentic fashion significance, these models appeared on the market with all the gingerbread with which they could be adorned. Typical of these concoctions was the bi-swing sports jacket with bellows pockets and flaps, leather buttons and all the trimmings. It is not with models such as these but with conservatively styled, authentic models, varied slightly from season to season, that country clothes will achieve their rightful place in the wardrobe. Properly educated to the comfort, the good looks and, above all, the essential appropriateness of these garments for the occasion, the average man becomes a ripe candidate for country clothes.

The matter of authenticity is no less. Important with regard to the accessories that go with country clothes than with the suits for which they are intended. A case in point is that of the plaid flannel and cotton flannel shirts which were introduced over a year ago to be worn with the tweed suits. Inside of one season every type of pattern imaginable was seen in these shirts, with the result that by the following season they had pretty well jaded the customer’s appetite or this merchandise. Yet there is still a demand for the original small hound’s tooth and Glen Urquhart patterns, which always have been good and probably always will be, in shirts for country wear.

Country clothes naturally call for more color and pattern than other types of dress. But there are limits in both directions, and one must know how far to go with color without becoming ostentatious and how far to go with pattern without seeming pretentious.* Scotch district plaids and checks combine the right proportions of color and pattern and are very much in vogue for odd sport jackets of tweeds and Shetlands.


* Here is an advice worthy of remembering (not that any other isn’t). How you alternate between pattern mixing and matching, (in this day and age esp.) is going to be of paramount importance. It is a fundamental aspect of developing one’s own style and must be understood properly if one ever wants to progress on his own and not be handicapped to a source… may that be whatever.

The newer jackets of this type are-in a three-button notched lapel model with high roll lapel, patch or bellows pockets and center or side vents. This particular model lends itself quite well to bold patterns, but bi-swing models with belted backs, pleats and other forms of ultra adornment are not suitable for plaid or boldly patterned jackets.

The most practical type of trouser to wear with the bolder jackets is the plain grey flannel. Considerable interest, however, is evidenced in hound’s tooth and Shepherd’s check trousers in both grey and brown. These trousers are especially smart when worn with solid color jackets, but are a bit on the “overdone” side when worn with the more boldly patterned jackets. Trousers carrying large over-checks are also very much in vogue at the moment.

In place of the waistcoat there seems to be a return to the short sleeveless sweater, particularly in solid colors, such as wine, navy blue, dark brown and grey. The smartest of these sweaters are in the heavy cable stitch, although fine alpacas and cashmeres are very luxurious and good looking.

Interest is again being manifested in the knitted waistcoat in small patterns, as well as in Fair Isle patterns. The. Tattersall flannel waistcoat is of course a perennial favorite, and there is a new brown suede in the same color as the brown suede shoe and also a heavy ribbed corduroy, both of which are very good. These waistcoats may be worn correctly with any type of tweed suit and’ are no less appropriate because they offer warmth and comfort along with style.

With respect to country suits, there is a moral to be derived from the fact that in England the odd tweed jacket and grey flannel trouser combination has been taken up by every Tom, Dick and Harry, with the result that those who are responsible for setting fashions have discarded the odd tweed jacket and in its place are wearing single breasted cheviot or Saxony suits in bold Scotch district plaids.

These plaids are usually made up of large Glen Urquhart patterns with colorful overplaids and the jacket is ordinarily a three-button notched lapel model carrying nine-inch side vents. The pockets have flaps and often there is an additional cash pocket. Some of the jackets of these suits worn by the horsey set carry saddle (slanting flap) pockets. The waistcoat matches the jacket, is single breasted and is frequently cut in the postboy fashion. Very often, in place of the waistcoat a sweater is worn. Trousers are cut full and carry a lap seam.

Jackets with center vents or plain backs are worn in Harris tweed, Donegal tweed, Shetland and other rough fabrics. The Harris tweeds usually run to solid colors and faint overplaids, while Shetlands are mostly favored in herringbone and small diamond patterns. At present there seems to be a return to favor of the Irish nubbed Donegal tweeds.

Tweed-jackets, although seen in solid colors, are most popular in definite checks and plaids. The fancy back that was popular a year ago has given way to the plain back with center or side vents. The majority of these latter models are three buttoned with notched lapels and flap pockets. Odd trousers of tweed, cheviot and Shetland are often worn, usually in herringbone, diagonal or plain solid colors.

Taking first rank among overcoats and topcoats for country wear is the tweed balmacaan. This is in a single breasted, button-through model with military collar, raglan sleeves and a wide flare in the skirt. Solid color hound’s tooth checks and overplaids are the most popular patterns.

Prominent also is the reversible coat which is made in the same style as the balmacaan, with one side tweed and the other a reversible gabardine. It is one of the most practical of all coats for the sportsman. An ideal coat for colder weather is the British short warm, which is a six-button double breasted coat with a long vent in the back, coming only –to the knee. The buttons are leather and there is a definite waistline to the coat. These coats, originally worn for riding, usually carry a plaid flannel lining for warmth and come in cheviots, Melton and camel’s hair.

The Inverness cape coat is a balmacaan but in place of sleeves it has a short cape. It is a particular favorite of sportsmen who do a great deal of shooting and has been seen on the campuses of several Eastern universities. The camel’s hair polo coat, popular a few seasons ago, has undergone a transition as to fabric, now being worn “in Irish tweeds and homespuns but retaining the same polo model.

Country hats are more a matter of personal preference than any of the other articles in the ensemble. There are, however, definite styles which are especially worthy of promotion. The newest and most important of these is the pork pie hat with a low, flat-set crown, fairly wide brim snapped down in front and a narrow band. It is made in rough felts and light weight crusher type felts, in browns and dark greens.

The one-piece top cap in patterned tweeds, such as Glen Urquharts and hound’s tooth checks, is coming back Into favor with well dressed sportsmen. The stitched tweed hat, in solid color tweeds, is also important. Snap brim hats in browns and greens are always worn, and there are still many Tyrolean style hats seen for country wear. Rough finished bowlers are correct for spectator wear in the country.

Perhaps the most important shirt today for country wear is the oxford shirt in solid colors with stripes. These are made in round collar attached, medium pointed collar attached and button-down collar attached models. Those who take their sports more seriously, however, prefer the flannel shirt with medium collar attached. These shirts are in solid colors and small check effects. The collar which promises to be of special importance this spring is the Prince of Wales widespread collar, made in a collar attached model and button-down collar attached models. Those who take their sports more seriously, however, prefer the flannel shirt with medium collar attached. These shirts are in solid colors and small check effects. The collar which promises to be of special interest is the Prince of Wales widespread collar, made in attached model and laundered soft. This collar should prove successful with sportsmen whose main objective in dress is comfort, and with the popularity of knitted wool ties for country wear the fact that the collar permits a large knot is in its favor.

With respect to general ensembles, an appropriate one for spectator wear at country races or country shows of various kinds consists of an odd tweed jacket and grey flannel trousers, worn with a cap or hat of the type previously described and heavy brogues or suede shoes. The same ensemble would be suitable for wear at a picnic, with the possible substitution of knickers for trousers.

The growth of steeplechase racing, which was introduced into America a few seasons ago and met with immediate success, attaches more importance than ever before to clothes for these events. Spectators attending activities of this type of course wear country clothes, with some even wearing riding clothes.

The riding clothes worn at these events are not necessarily the type worn for the show ring but are more for the field or country riding, with the result that we find canvas top new market boots, canvas puttees and jodhpurs, rather than ordinarily twill breeches and leather boots.


Before I end this article I want you to have a look at this lavish illustration below. It is from Spring of 36’ and was titled “Chasing in the Shires”



Observe carefully & you will spot a lot of what has been described above in the article (& next one). This was painted in England and depicts more ensembles than 4-5 other illustrations combined.
 

Tutee

New Member
SECTION II OF THIS POST

This next main section is devoted to university & country clothes. I have covered some portion of this topic previously. Kindly see the link below to be directed to that thread.



From Fall 33’

OUT OF TOWN CLOTHES

Clothes for Collage


During the Fall a young man’s fancy turns to haberdashery rather than Homer, and suits rather than Suetonius. Then the Novum Organum becomes a new world of dress. Back to college . . . back among men . . . back where clubs and clothes mark a man’s standards.

The word “collegiate,” now seldom used in speaking of college men, is altogether foreign to its famous meaning of some eight years ago, when the raccoon coat, Oxford bags, the hat pushed up in front, and the socks rolled down, were all implicit in the term. Today the college man is looked upon as a leader of fashion, a man who dresses inconspicuously and correctly for all occasions, thanks to the leadership of smart Eastern Universities, which have a metropolitan feeling, or at least are near enough to metropolitan areas for the students to feel all the influences of sophisticated living. We can thank the present-day “collegiate” element for the return to popularity of the tail coat, for the white buckskin shoes, for the gray flannel slacks with odd jackets, and for various other smart fashions which are typical of university men today.

For on-campus wear there is a general acceptance of country clothes in the typical British manner, such as odd slacks d tweed jackets, country brogues and felt hats. This is the way the undergraduates at smart Universities and prep schools dress today during classes.

Over the week-ends when the average college man goes to town there is always the dark Chesterfield coat and derby hat. Single or double-breasted town suit, black shoes, very often a white starched collar shirt with a tail coat.

Clothing and furnishings that should be sold to men going to college for the first time or returning to college should be exacting for the very reason that none will find out more quickly what things are wrong than the student himself when he gets to his college.

Smart and new Items already having a definite acceptance with University men and which follow Fall fashion trends in all their indications are these: a double-breasted suit of dark blue; it may be of solid color or may have chalk stripes, silk stripe effect. This is the suit that the college man will wear to and from town and every often wear in town. Another suit that should be in the wardrobe of every well-dressed undergraduate should be either a single-breasted Glen Urquhart plaid or the newer Shepherd plaid. This suit serves many purposes. First of all it is worn on Saturdays and at athletic activities with a top coat. It may be worn when going out at night. Secondly, the coat may be worn ideally with slacks and the trousers may be worn ideally with an odd jacket. A third suit that should be in the wardrobe of the man returning to college should be a Harris tweed or a Shetland suit either in shades of brown, Lovat or to please his own individuality. This suit is typical of college clothing today and may be worn, like the Shepherd check suit, with odd slacks or with odd jacket, most comfortably for outdoor activities or for football games. It is also advisable to have an extra sport jacket along. This may be of any check tweed fabric and should invariably be single-breasted with notch lapel. It may have side vents with a belted back with by-swing shoulders or the newer modified Norfolk. A pair of gray flannel Glen Urquhart plaid slacks, or the newer Shepherd plaid or tweed slacks should also be included.

Another necessity for the college man is the dinner coat. This may be either single or double-breasted, preferably double-breasted. This suit has many advantages. It is worn at fraternity dinners, smokers, theatre and many other evenings when a tail coat is too much and sack clothes are not enough.

Last but not least, as a matter of fact most important, is the tail coat. This will be worn at all fraternity or club dances, at proms, dancing when in town and other very formal occasions. From an overcoat standpoint the college man should have in his kit a double-breasted or single-breasted dark town coat either of oxford gray or navy blue, preferably without velvet collar. This will be worn in town and will also serve as an overcoat for formal evening wear.

Another coat that is ideally suited for campus wear is the reversible top coat of gabardine and Harris tweed. Instead of this coat the smarter dresser may include in his wardrobe a bold checked Harris tweed Balmaccan and for bad weather days a gabardine Balmaccan. Another coat which may be used on the campus is the old time favorite, the double-breasted camel coat. The newer ones are cut much shorter. Many have leather buttons with three buttons to button and there is a decided flare in the skirt.

For football games and Winter outdoor activities it is always good taste to have either a raccoon coat or a black broadcloth coat lined with fur and a fur collar or a tweed type of coat lined with fur and a fur collar but, of course, due to the period of depression that the country has just been through, while these things are nice, they are terribly expensive and so as to substitute for these fur coats, one should by all means include in the wardrobe a double-breasted Ulster type of coat with a very heavy lining. The coat may have four or five buttons, double-breasted and a broad collar. The smarter coats of this type have no belt in the back.

Next in importance after having the student fitted out with his clothes are his shirts. It must be considered that students attending Universities today need shirts for every type of occasion. The shirt wardrobe should consist of country sport shirts, of town shirts which include starched collars, and of formal shirts. For general campus wear, the sport type of shirt should be as follows: It may be of flannel or flannel finished material or heavy cheviot Oxford. In model the button down collar-attached shirt and the round collar- attached shirt to be worn pinned, and the medium pointed collar to be worn pinned, are the three outstanding and favorite styles. Blue is by far the best color, with gray, tan, and white following, also yellow, a new shade which has already been accepted by University men.

Checked patterns, such as Glens, hound’s tooth checks and the newer Tattersall ‘check. Shirts for general wear and town wear should be of striped or fine checked madras, broadcloth, lighter weight Oxford. These are most popular in tab color models. The widespread tab is the newer one. It might be well to include neckband shirts in this wardrobe, and white starched collars may be worn with them. Pleated bosom shirts are again back and smart college men returning to town for the holidays will get much’ pleasure out of wearing pleated shirts with white starched collar and cuffs. Round collared shirts and pointed collared shirts of these medium weight materials are also correct for general and town wear. For evening wear, the plain white linen or white pique two stud open front shirt is the correct shirt with either tail coat or dinner coat. With the double-breasted dinner coat, a white turn-over starched collar may be worn and a semi-stiff pleated shirt with two studs. This shirt may also be worn with the tail coat but with the high wing collar with bold broad tabs. Single cuffs should be on all dress shirts.

The next item of apparel which depends now on both the suit and the shirt is the correct neckwear. Here again we have the sport and country and town and formal atmosphere. For general campus wear the wool cashmere tie is still usually suited. Smart University men have taken up the silk crocheted tie in horizontal and bias stripes, and this Fall they will be more popular than they have been in many a year. Although bow ties are primarily a Spring and Summer item it would be a good idea to include a few bow ties in the wardrobe for early Fall and as they are now made of cashmere as well as silk, the student will undoubtedly get use out of them. For town wear, town wear, striped rep ties and Spitalsfield ties are back again. Foulard ties are good for all year round, just as popular for Winter as for Summer, and every student’s wardrobe should include these along with others. India madras ties for early Fall are also good, new and colorful. For formal wear the newest and smartest shape is the semi-butterfly tie in both black and white and these are styles that should be sold to students going to college this Fall.

Undergraduates at important Universities have put their stamp of approval on wool hose and the majority of college students wear wool hose all the year round. The newest note in woolen hose is the revival of the Argyle plaids that were present a few fears ago. Plaids and checks have already run the gauntlet and the new wool hose that are favored are made in 6 and3 rib in heather and mixtures. There is also a revival of the horizontal or partridge stripe which is now considered very smart. For town wear, lisle or silk hose 6 and 3 rib in solid colors or broken check clocks’. For wear with dinner clothes, black hose with white, black or colored clocks. For tail coat, sheer silk hose or fine 6 and 3 rib silk hose. The newer evening socks have a wool foot for comfort while dancing and to act as a cushion for the thin soled evening shoe.

One of the most important things to be considered in the collage man’s wardrobe is shoes which again must be suitable to the various occasions. You will notice in the forthcoming paragraph about shoes how they follow in the wake of the strictly he-man rough feeling of the tweed and how they adhere to the strict formality of dress-up clothes. For general campus wear the all-white buckskin shoe with no toe cap, red rubber heels and soles, is the white buck or white elk shoe with black saddle strap. Though the brown buckskin shoe is a favorite of the horsey set they have not as yet been really accepted or by college men. The brown buckskin blucher with no toe cap and heavy crepe sole and heel is a shoe that is very practical for all-campus wear and one which if liked by the student should surely be included in his wardrobe, as its smartness cannot be questioned.

As far as color is concerned brown is surely the favorite. Another shoe that is being worn by some of the better dressed undergraduates at smarter universities is a deep reddish brown Norwegian calf (which resembles a Scotch grain but is not as rough) with a round toe, on the English straight last, a straight toe cap with perforations and foxing along the side of the shoe, heavy leather soles and heels. Another shoe of the same nature that is worn by many students is the deep brown calf shoe, no toe cap, with three extra large brass eyelets and crepe soles and heels. For town wear or more dressy occasions black straight tip shoe, either plain or with perforations, with a slightly rounded toe, is very smart and conservative. With dinner clothes the five hole patent leather Oxford on the long vamp. The same shoe is correct with the tail coat. Pumps are definitely in and are accepted and are also correct with tall coat. It is necessary to include in one’s wardrobe a good pair of leather slippers with hard soles and heels. If students are fond of riding, boots either of the field type or more dressy type or the blucher riding shoe with canvas leggings should be included in the wardrobe.

Another very essential item of the young man’s wardrobe is headwear. Various hats for a college term are as follows. First, the derby hat. The newer model is a rather medium height, very full crown, with a short straightish brim. The next hat that is important is the brown snap brim hat. This hat may have a binding or it may be the new semi-Homburg hat which is a new Homburg snapped down in front. One may include in one’s wardrobe a tweed stitched hat or a one piece top cap. A small hat with rather a telescope crown and a small straightish brim resembling a Tyrolean hat is also good for campus wear. It is made of rough scratch felt.

Accessories should include various colored and white linen handkerchiefs for the every day clothes and white handkerchiefs for the formal clothes’. A very smart handkerchief which should be in the wardrobe is the colored silk foulard madder handkerchief.

Mufflers—the silk wool square in tied-and-dyed and polka dot as well as in the old paisley patterns are very popular. The student will need a pair of white buckskin or mocha gloves for dress wear. A pair of pigskin gloves for campus wear is advisable. A pair of yellow string knit gloves for cold weather and rough country wear in general.

Jewelry that is necessary is a heavy gold safety pin for one’s collar. Gold cufflinks of modest design. A wrist watch or pocket watch. If pocket watch is worn, a gold link watch chain 1s very good taste. Of course, the necessary collar buttons for semi-formal or dinner clothes, black, gold or semi- precious stones. For tail coat white pearl or crystals or precious stones. Also in the wardrobe should be included a waist- coat. There should be white single-breasted for wear with tail coat* and black single or double-breasted for wear with dinner coat, although the single breasted is preferable. Another waistcoat that should be suggested to students or boys going to college for the first time is a checked Tattersall waistcoat. These are very popular at smart Universities and go well with the odd jacket and slack combination.


*Note that this is suggested towards the younger collage students. For all other uses a DB white-tie waist coat is perfectly correct in various assortments of styles and design that were seen during the era.

Another item which would be useful to the college man is a sweater, either the sleeveless or regular slip-over sweater with sleeves. The newer ones are in cable stitch knit and are popular in wine and blue as well as in canary and white. Shetland sweaters with a high crew neck are also very good and of course the necessary pajamas, robe, underwear, garters, and suspenders.

This gives you a very definite example what to offer college men, both from the angle of what they need and what is smart.


Staring off at first we have an illustration from fall of 34’



This student (an engineering major to be precise) is wearing a 3 button suit of Lovat tweed suit with diagonal weave cut in a very full and soft manner, that is the suit is very full in cut. He wears a flannel tattersall vest, which is directly imported from country fashions. His shirt is light blue button-down with soft collar and tie is crocheted in solid red color. Shoes are brown scotch grain in a full wingtip model. Note the leather watch guard strap in the breast pocket. The trousers here are pleated in order to keep in harmony with the fullness of the jacket. However, the may perfectly be without pleats…especially if the jacket is slightly trimmed.

Next from spring of 37’ we have two upper classmen



The term “semi-sports” is simply a verbal recognition of an old undergraduate habit—that of finding a happy medium between two extremes of formality & informality as typified by the more orthodox modes for town and country. The outfits pictured here are typical examples

On left you have a heavy homespun tweed raglan coat with leather buttons, worn with plain grey flannel suit, blue oxford shirt button-down attached collar and brown and white checked wool tie. Note that the coat carries a red over plaid on it. The semi-sports hat is rough finish felt, which can be worn in various shapes. Underneath the coat he wears a grey flannel suit with Norwegian crepe soled shoes. The one on the right is a Saxony Glen Plaid 3-button roll lapel model in 3-pc with a tan broadcloth shirt, which carries a medium spread soft collar. Note the fullness in the cut of the suit and extreme open front quarters. Tie is regimental striped and foulard silk pocket square in the breast pocket. Over his arm is a covert cloth topcoat and the hat is in lighter brown shade of Cuba brown. Shoes are brown reversed calf with black soles and heels.

Moving along from late spring of 37’ we have two more collage students



Seems like the boys are in an interesting conversation doesn’t it? While in the meantime we will study their clothes… since we certainly can’t have the privilege of engaging the blond in the car. So, the one the left wears a collage “uniform” so to speak with ever present brown Shetland odd jacket with a blue over plaid, combined up with full cut grey flannel trousers. This jacket is a 3-button notch lapel model with only one button at the sleeves. In his hat e carries a gabardine hat which is extremely lightweight and is in a telescope crown with stitched brim (which was basically an old fashioned rain hat fancied & revived by students at Yale & Princeton). His shoes are of white elk with black saddles and red rubber soles & heels.

The one on the right wears a iridescent gabardine suit with a red lining as a matter of fact, which is observable underneath the opened side vent. Note the heavy country influence on this suit with slanted pockets and side vents. The jacket is a 3-button roll lapel model. The regimental striped bow-tie is paired up with soft green shirt. Shoes are Norwegians and socks are plaid. Hat is in snuff color with a lower crown and slightly wider brim. Pocket square is green & yellow foulard.

Alright, now another one of the quintessential collage articles of clothing; a camel hair coat from early spring of 34’



The fickle undergraduate has taken many coats into his fold during the last few seasons but the enduring favorite as far as fabric is concerned is camel hair. Originally, his pet camel coat was a long and full half belted or full belted model. Here is the newest model and at the moment a ranking favorite. This coat is cut rather short, full of skirt and has slashed pockets; it has three buttons, a notched lapel and fits easily. Another university note to put on the “must” list is the club stripe bow tie—they are very much in the running. As usual with the college man whose clothes mark him well-dressed, the brown snap brim hat has a black silk band. Plaids and checks in suits are still highly desirable, as evidenced by this chap’s brown glen plaid suit. Note that the shoes are quite different from the usual they have heavy crepe soles and are cut with blucher fronts, another British note that is creeping into the styling of shoes. These will stand rough going.

ROUND CORNERED COLLARS AND DEEP TONES MARK A SHIRT STYLE HIGHLIGHT

Round collared shirts, those favorites of the sporting world, have recently had a whole-hearted acceptance among college undergraduates. These we show are in deep tones a trend which is rapidly on the way up. Deep tone shirts lend a different air-- an air of smartness and character--to the ensemble of the university man.

RAW EDGE SNAP BRIM HATS MAINTAIN THEIR MARGIN OF POPULARITY

Though hat fashions may come and going color, in shape or dimensions from season to season the one hat that stands out as the college man’s favorite is the snap brim model with a raw edge. While the undergrad in this instance is not pinching his hat as has been his practice, it is still the same hat.

ARGYLE PLAID SOX COME WITH A WHITE GROUND TONE FOR WARM WEATHER WEAR

With plaids and checks running riot in the men’s apparel field, and suits and coats in every variety of pattern, the sox went Argyle plaid and checks in a grand fashion. With the coming of warm weather, we’ll see them done in Argyle plaids on white.


And now to sort of summarize a few of the key aspects explained above in the article we have a larger illustration of University students.



Pay close attention to these ensembles as these have been described earlier. Note that on far left the student is wearing a DB 3-pc blue chalk stripe suit, which was usually worn by students when visiting metropolitan areas. There was little to no need for such citified suits for regular campus wear. Secondly from left note the different take on combination of odd jackets and trousers. This practice has long evaporated from sartorial realms and is almost all forgotten. I have addressed this in the past also that plaid jacket & patterned trouser scheme need not be reserved only for formal day time attires…it can be used a matter of fact in a variety of very casual & sporty ensembles as depicted here. This brown Shetland with blue over plaid trousers (shown here) can be perfectly a part of a suit. Next, third from left we have a glen plaid coat with raglan sleeves. See the link for pervious university styles post for a detailed discussion on university coats. And lastly extreme right we have a slightly different take on the odd jacket / trousers combination. Here the jacket is of green glen plaid combine with dark grey flannel trousers. Note that the shirt is deep grey worn with a striped tie and a dark sweater vest.



CLOTHES FOR ACTIVE SPORT

While we do not presume to suggest that seasoned sportsmen are in need of suggestions to be found in this section, nevertheless with the increasingly wide- spread interest in outdoor activities and are growing number of recruits who are being added to the ranks each year, it would not seem to be amiss to emphasize, even for the hundredth time, some of the necessities which are either required by common sense, or rigidly specified by tradition.

Unless a man is comfortably dressed it is impossible for-him to enjoy himself while participating in out-of-door activities. Anything fancy or gaudy is not in as good taste. As a plain and workmanlike turn-out. In Scotland sportsmen shoot for grouse, pheasant, etc. The weather is cold and damp. Very often the. Hunting season includes a protracted wet spell. Ideally suited to this climatic condition are the hand-woven tweeds from the Isle of Harris and Lewis, and the hand-loomed Shetlands which are worn by these men. Heavy wool hose and well oiled boots of Norwegian grain are Ideally suited for the purpose. Canvas anklets are worn and though many men prefer caps, some of the more experienced sportsmen favor the tweed grouse cap.

For upland shooting in our country a serviceable jacket of tweed or Shetland with chamois gun pads, a pair of good tweed or strong worsted knicker-breeches ire advisable. Heavy woolen hose and medium height smoked elk boots, an old soft hat, complete the turn-out of the well seasoned sportsman. It is important that the clothes worn, though old and shabby, should be of the finest materials.

Point to point racing has been accepted in this country and many gentlemen jockeys are men of great prominence in society their fashion influence is of extreme importance. The men who ride in these races have adopted the English way of dressing, wearing a cap and a loose fitting double- breasted tweed coat.

Beagling is a sport that can be followed for a life time and does not need to end with a man’s collage days. There is hardly any age limit for the field that follows a pack of beagles, provided one is still able to walk or run. Beagling is a sport that a man and his family can enjoy together, a sport that is conveniently possible for the many who could never afford the expense of maintaining a string of hunters. It 1s a sport that affords a wonderful opportunity to see hound work and see it even more intimately than when out with fox hounds. Generally, hints when out to hunt with fox hounds would also apply to beagles. Members of the field rarely turn out in livery except by special request. It is well to bear in mind that one often has to contend with briers and wet going. A cloth that will resist these and not pick up burdocks, such as gabardine or corduroy, is the best. For the man who is keen enough to try to keep up with the little hounds, extra heavy sneakers are found to be of advantage. Anklets prove to be of great advantage against the brier and weed seeds, though for this purpose some sportsmen prefer gaiters. Knickerbockers, not too full cut, bind the legs less when running than do breeches.

COUNTRY CLOTHES

The tremendous interest throughout the country for the proper kind of clothes for other than solely town wear has grown to larger proportions each spring and summer. It has reached the point where it is evident that its importance to most men is greater than that of town clothes at this time of the year. Going back to the time when the limitations of a resort or weekend outfit consisted of a pair of white flannels and a double-breasted blue jacket irrespective of the time, place or activity, we have seen a consistently widening demand for appropriate clothes that will not only physically fit the purpose of the wearer but will create a. feeling of proper appearance to his mind as well.

Primarily, due to the actual fact that at Eastern Universities (such as Princeton and Yale) where odd jackets and slacks have been adopted for daily wear for several years, last fall it was apparent to observers that still further assurance of the continued acceptance of this fashion was definitely confirmed. The wide use of typical country fabrics of the Shetland, Harris and other textures of the shaggy rougher kind, as well as softer flannels and saxonies, has almost completely supplanted the harder worsted suitings that were so popular a few years back. This has occasioned the loss of popularity of the smoother, harder-faced fabrics. S6 too-have these plain un patterned fabrics given way to pattern of all kinds. The rougher fabrics are seen in checks, plaids, overplaids and in the bold, colorful patterns of District checks, white the flannels and saxonies are seen in definite stripings and the many varieties of Glen Urquhart.

Contributing factors to the growth of this fashion are evident on all sides. A notable interest in riding is apparent in all parts of this country and the natural resultant interest in horse-shows and hunt-meets as well as the point-to-point type of races (which have been open to the public with ever-increasing popularity) is on the upward trend. To this must be added the tremendous spectator group of University football enthusiasts, and the requirements of proper and comfortable clothing for this purpose. . Still more important, and not confined to any group or part of the country, is the spreading fashion of year-round suburban homes that are growing perceptibly on the outskirts of every city and town, that have taken country living out of the pure summer-time category. This latter group, while not necessarily devoted to any specific sport or activity, are the greatest exponents of the rugged and purely masculine type of apparel that we describe in detail herewith.

In jackets the single-breasted model alone has the only place of importance for country wear, and always with a notch collar. The body lines are loose and full with an apparent drapiness, so important to the appearance of freedom and ease. Leather buttons carry out the detail and in some cases, on clothing of very smart men, buttons of stag horn have recently been observed. Yoke back and half-belted-back jackets are in keeping with this jacket modeling and more recently the modified Norfolk jacket made a repeated appearance at gatherings of these groups.

Fabrics suitable and most popular for use in odd trousers, of the full cut slack variety, are of flannel or gabardine. In these combination outfits either the jacket or the slacks is of a bolder pattern, in contrast to the other, while quite often, when pattern is omitted from each, the rough texture of jacket contrasts with a smooth surfaced fabric off flannel or gabardine in the trouser.

Colorings invariably run to the heather or Lovat casts with noticeable tendency to the more greenish tones of these two mixtures. These colorings have particularly had their effect on head. Wear for use with country clothes. Hats of rough finish felt are increasingly popular in green and heather mixtures. One of the smartest models made in these mixtures features a narrow snap brim with narrow ribbon and a crown that has a feel of the Tyrol in it. The tweed, stitched-crown hat and caps of tweed or definite bold plaids and checks are finding a revived popularity with the tendency toward rougher-looking clothes.

Shirts fit into their place in the trend as evidenced by the wide acceptance of the Glen pattern and more recently developed and definite hound’s tooth and Tattersall checks. Even more recent is the return of the flannel and flannel finish shirt in plain twill weave or self-herringbone that is smart in strong deep colorings, including yellow. Heavy basket weave oxford-cheviots, with pinned or button-down collars, are likewise perfectly in keeping with the other members of the ensemble, all of which typifies the sportiness of this fashion tendency.

Neckwear, always an important part in the effect of any appropriate dress, has been influenced to the extent of a new interest in heavy silk crochets in plain or striped patterns of the club variety as well as in heather mixtures, and cashmere ties, already a big university fashion, seem destined to further popularity for wear with these country clothes to which they are so well suited. Even the bow tie has a place here, judging by its recent acceptance when worn with the rougher clothing at some of the Eastern universities.

Undoubtedly a reflection of the spirit of the fashion is present in hosiery and the old favorite pattern of the golf-hose days is about ready to stage a return, judging by the already visible acceptance of Argyle plaid half hose of wool. These colorful hose are the perfect companion to the heavy scotch grain brown brogues and half brogues that were seen, in greater numbers than for many years, at the recent meets at Belmont and the United Hunts. The brown buckskin shoe, of course, is growing in importance for country use in the typical heavier lasts made for this purpose. These boast heavy crepe or varnished soles.

In sweaters, there is certainly no tendency away from plain colors, though there is a new color possibility in dark green (of the old Dartmouth shade) which has been out for some time. Textures however are being influenced by the rugged tendency and yarns of Shetland and camels-hair as well as mohair are becoming more and more popular, particularly in the better grades to which they are confined due to their greater yarn cost. In model, crew necks seems to be definitely accepted in favor of the V-type and some few jackets are finding favor with the fashionable in the soft-hair yarns particularly.

Mufflers, which have a ready use and a smart appearance with sport clothes, show a continuance of the hacking scarf particularly in larger polka dots while the old madder print Rumchanda square has made its appearance in many places of fashion and is favored over the long muffler type for country wear. Patterned n the traditional and classic Persian figures, squares are more important than they have been for several years. Likewise tied and dyed pattern squares which are unusually smart are equally important in the muffler group for Fall.


Now let us have a look at some of the country / sporty ensembles that they are referring to in the article above. This one below is from early spring of 36’



Alright, in so far as the suits go for these “out-of-town” activities (or heck even to some extent “in town”) brown is considered de rigueur. This illustration is no exception to that. This is a 2-pc suit of brown cheviot with 3 colored stripes; red, green & yellow. The jacket is 3 button roll lapel model with slanting pockets and side vents. You should take note of the extreme drape effect in this suit as the fullness underneath the sleeves (around the chest especially) is quite prominent, not to mention well adapted for a suit of this type. The trousers matching the cut of the jacket are also full with cuffs. The jacket also features open front quarters, which are a nice detail. pay great attention to the width of the collar here and note its relation to the lapels. This I am afraid, now-a-days is only reserved to the realm of genuine bespoke or a very special made to measure.

The shirt is tan flannel in a checked pattern, tie is dark colored crocheted, hat a green felt porkpie, handkerchief is foulard and shoes are brown buckskin in monk front models. Two or three eyelet derby shoes done in reversed calf should also be supremely appropriate.

Last but not least note the right-hand-drive car in the illustration.

Lets look at another brownish suit from spring of 36’



Newmarket, where several times a year some of the finest race horses in the world are sold at auction, is the classic vantage point for the observation of new fashions in country clothes. The outfit which Mr. Saalburg has sketched here is something of an advance guard fashion and while it is as good as it’s new, it may be expected to strike the conservative as being somewhat extreme… In both the fabric and the model, this particular suit has recently been accorded acceptance of the highest fashion significance Newmarket, and out Long Island squires are notably sedulous in speeding up the American acceptance of new models and fabrics that get off to an auspicious start in England.

This suit here is a 3-pc model quite similar to the one in the illustration above. The (slightly longer) jacket is 3-button rolled to middle button with slanted pockets and side vents. The trousers are perfectly matching the easy lines of the jacket and full in cut with cuffs. The suit can be made in Cheviot, flannel or even Shetland. Shirt is light tan and tie is brown and cream /yellow checked wool. Note the brown Moli’ere boots & cap is glen plaid tweed in one-piece model.

Even though the above two suitings were striped, the quintessential country suit is either in check or plaid. So here below we have a windowpane suit from early spring of 34’



In putting these three figures together on this page, the artist has helped himself to a slice of that license which poets used to claim, but the point, of course, is to show three separate outfits, without taking & page a piece to do it. The figure on the extreme left shows an informal country hacking kit consisting of a brown tweed riding sack, a three button notch lapel model, of which most of the important details cannot be distinguished. This jacket has slanting flap pockets, the breast pocket also carrying a flap, and has side vents in place of the usual center vent in the back. The breeches are of light weight tweed in a Glen Urquhart plaid with a colored over plaid. Brown soft legged boots, black or plaid. Brown soft legged boots, black or dark brown silk foulard stock, in either case with yellow polka, dots, and a brown hat with a black band (the stunt the boys at Yale and Princeton started) complete the outfit.

The man in the center of the group wears an outfit that is typical of the prevailing taste of the more elderly Long Island sportsmen for spectator sports wear. It consists of a, two button single breasted Shetland suit with a dark overplaid, a single breasted fly front covert cloth topcoat with rows of stitching on the cuffs and at the bottom, a, blue polka dot muffler, worn Ascotted, a, rough finished Derby, and brown calf shoes of the Norwegian type with heavy leather soles and heels.


That said, note that this suit is in a 2 button model, which shouts the influence of Duke of Windsor (then Prince of Wales). He wore this model most often in checks and plaid suits. This type of jacket is very well adapted to a suit of informal nature. You don’t have to have it in this configuration but this goes on to tell you that you have an option available, especially if considering bespoke.

On second thought, since the man at the right is the M. F. H., whose dress is governed by traditional rules, these three outfits could, and would, come together at an informal point to point, so we take back the crack about artistic license. We don’t know. And assume that you don’t care either, about the details of the costumes worn by the ladies in the background.

So with a few suits already observed, moving on we look at the sport coat / odd combinations in country themes. These are from spring / summer 34’



On the left we have a bi-swing gabardine jacket in deep green shade, linen weskit, club striped bow tie and gun-club checked worsted flannel slacks. Hat and shoes are both brown and the flower at the lapel is deep red.

At right, the jacket is of shepherd check with single vent at the back and ticket pockets, paired up with a muffler worn in ascot manner. Grey medium slacks are cheviot.

Before, you move on take a good look at both of these illustrations. They depict the two principle odd combination methods. Solid top with patterned trousers on left (older scheme) while patterned jacket and solid bottoms on the right… which is relatively newer and still observable. In order to perfectly master the art of pattern mixing and matching you should be able to employ both of these techniques in various ensembles. Also note worthy is the fact that here at least in both cases the jacket is darker than the trousers, which is old-fashioned (established pre-WWI) as opposed to the other way around. The one on the left gets all the points for originality these days, while the one on the right is calm, sedate and always effective.



On left we have a bi-swing herringbone cheviot jacket, worsted tattersall flannel waistcoat & every present grey flannel slacks. Shirt is club collared (worn pinned) in blue color and tie is blue and white striped. Note here that the hat is green while the shoes are black. This herringbone jacket may very well be part of a suit as cheviot herringbone is a classic pattern. If you’ve never believed in a connection between country & university fashions… well here is your chance now. See, the university student illustration depicting a similar vest on an engineering student.

On right side we have an old world Norfolk jacket of natural herringbone Shetland and dark brown slacks of worsted gabardine. Often these dark brown odd trousers were in the “Havana Brown” shade. The shirt is striped blue and white button down, while the tie is yellow with small print motif.
Now that we are all done with other ensembles we can have a look at certain top coat styles that are lightweight and perfect for early fall / spring seasons. This is from early spring 38’.



Fig. 1 Blue tweed single breasted button through topcoat with peak lapel, worn with brown Cavalier hat, brown monk front shoes, and blue and brown accessories. Note the windowpane suit underneath the coat.

Fig. 2 This shorter length double breasted grey herringbone topcoat has a four-button front, and is worn with a white ground shirting, a white stiff collar, black Lord’s hat, worsted suit, brown monk buckskin shoes and yellow chamois gloves.

Fig. 3 The double breasted lightweight rubberized hunting raincoat has an all-around belt. A grey cheviot suit, a bowler hat and yellow string gloves complete the outfit.



Fig. 4 Single breasted tweed topcoat, two-button front, and low roll lapels. The coat is also shorter in length, and rather loose-fitting. It is worn with a blue town suit, white stiff collar, and bowler hat.

Fig. 5 A single breasted notched lapel covert coat in natural color, accompanies a suit of grey Glen Urquhart plaid, reverse calf town shoes, green Cavalier hat, while stiff collar, and a pair of red capeskin gloves.

More on topcoats from spring 40’



Here’s a right smart collection of checked tweed topcoats—forerunners of the sports trend for spring. All are correct for wear in town or country, as well as for traveling. At upper left is a single breasted fly front peak lapel tweed coat in two-button style with. Lapel rolled to the waistline. This is a brown cheviot with colorful Glen pattern, and comes only two inches below the knee. It is worn in town with semi-sports clothes, reverse calf shoes and cither the Cavalier, Homburg or bowler hat. At lower right is a knee length single breasted fly front grey Glen Urquhart topcoat with set-in sleeves. Although shown here with town accessories, it is equally correct for spectator sports.



The left hand figure of the center group shows a single breasted, button-through, raglan sleeve, tweed topcoat in large tan Glen plaid, with leather buttons, flapped pockets, ticket pocket and a wide flare to the skirt. It is especially appropriate for country wear with Lovat tweed suit, reverse calf “gummies” and sports hat. The man in the center wears a three-button, notch lapel, single breasted Harris tweed coat with set-in sleeves and leather buttons, monk front shoes and semi-sports hat. The man at the right wears a Harris tweed balmacaan topcoat in large blue, grey and white check, a favorite with collage men. It has slash pockets, military collar and raglan shoulders, and is worn here with a pork pie hat, striped “flannel suit and brown brogue shoes.

So... what do you think? Any decent ideas in there? I hope you found something useful or tasteful that you can incorporate into your style of dressing. Remember, these are very broad topics and what is explained above is only the “tip-of-the-iceberg”, if even that. The rules and correctness issues are often complicated (not to mention confusing) if you want to go into it. So for the sake of my (plus your) sanity and the simplicity of this post… we will skip them.

Still interested in more? Kindly see the link below to be directed to a super detailed version of this post (with many more illustrations & much more text). Once there…check Section I, II & III for additional info and illustrations. Sections IV & V are same as here.


 
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JLibourel

Honors Member and King Fop
What unbelievably fascinating and informative material! Thank you so much for making these posts here and on LL. I know people have said it before, but I wish you could make some sort of deal with the publishing company that owns Esquire (and has the rights to AA) to publish an anthology of this great stuff with your own informed commentary.

"Today the college man is looked upon as a leader of fashion, a man who dresses inconspicuously and correctly for all occasions...."

So far fallen, so far, far fallen...!

I'll have to show the collegiate illustrations to my stepson so he can see how they did it when his grandpa was at Harvard.
 

Holdfast

Honors Member
These posts are always immensely inspiring. They make me want to dash to the tailor and start browsing the books.

Thank you for the work putting the posts together.
 

Fogey

Elite Member
Fascinating and refreshing. Thank-you for taking the time to post what surely must be one of the longest posts in AAAC history. The illustrations are quite lovely as well.
 

Alexander Kabbaz

Tech and Business Advice Guru
Tutee is a philosophic masochist. Not only is he trying to make this old man go blind for whatever perceived sleights I have afforded him in the past ... but he is singlehandedly attempting to put me in the poorhouse by using up my entire stock of fabric attempting to recreate his spectacularly defined concepts.
 
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