Paul Stuart, I Knew You When . . .

Flanderian

Connoisseur
Did a couple more scans, but for some reason, they didn't come out as well.

But as intended, they still illustrate my central assertion regarding the original Paul Stuart.

As a retiree, I rarely find myself dressing up to a level of formality such as once was common for business or more formal social events. But if one sometimes enjoys wearing a tie, it need not always be a more formal manner. More sporting options exist as are shown in the page I posted earlier.

Paul Stuart still does ad layouts involving lots of color and pattern, but I'm afraid I find many of them crude imitations of the kaleidoscopic virtuosity with which they once employed the classic lexicon.


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Scan doesn't show it as well as the printed page does, but I still think it's brilliant harmonizing of pattern and color. Should you wear it? Probably not. Would I? Maybe 20 years ago before entering senility. ;) But brilliant none-the-less. Walking an aesthetic tight-rope wire!

And when it was time for more sober attire, Paul Stuart did that equally well, and just as elegantly. To some degree I find the present Stuart less adroit, sometimes, crude.


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Fading Fast

Connoisseur
Did a couple more scans, but for some reason, they didn't come out as well.

But as intended, they still illustrate my central assertion regarding the original Paul Stuart.

As a retiree, I rarely find myself dressing up to a level of formality such as once was common for business or more formal social events. But if one sometimes enjoys wearing a tie, it need not always be a more formal manner. More sporting options exist as are shown in the page I posted earlier.

Paul Stuart still does ad layouts involving lots of color and pattern, but I'm afraid I find many of them crude imitations of the kaleidoscopic virtuosity with which they once employed the classic lexicon.


View attachment 29062


Scan doesn't show it as well as the printed page does, but I still think it's brilliant harmonizing of pattern and color. Should you wear it? Probably not. Would I? Maybe 20 years ago before entering senility. ;) But brilliant non-the-less. Walking an aesthetic tight-rope wire!

And when it was time for more sober attire, Paul Stuart did that equally well, and just as elegantly. To some degree I find the present Stuart less adroit, sometimes, crude.


View attachment 29064

Great stuff - thank you for taking the time to scan.

As we've chatted about before, I think the current PS has more conservative / traditional clothes in the store than you'd be led to believe from the ads, catalog and window displays, all of which show its boldest colors and fashions.

For whatever reason - my guess, PS is trying to drive younger customers to the store and, assume, the regulars know they have the classics, but who knows - the advertising, et al. is not representative of the full line of merchandise.
 

Flanderian

Connoisseur
Great stuff - thank you for taking the time to scan.

As we've chatted about before, I think the current PS has more conservative / traditional clothes in the store than you'd be led to believe from the ads, catalog and window displays, all of which show its boldest colors and fashions.

For whatever reason - my guess, PS is trying to drive younger customers to the store and, assume, the regulars know they have the classics, but who knows - the advertising, et al. is not representative of the full line of merchandise.

You are very welcome!

And I have no doubt you are correct concerning the store offering better options. But it's a pity if caviar decides it wants to look like tuna salad.

And as a marketeer, it makes me ask the question, if I want to try to look just like Suitsupply, why would the market I'm trying to exploit not just shop there instead?
 

Matt S

Connoisseur
You are very welcome!

And I have no doubt you are correct concerning the store offering better options. But it's a pity if caviar decides it wants to look like tuna salad.

And as a marketeer, it makes me ask the question, if I want to try to look just like Suitsupply, why would the market I'm trying to exploit not just shop there instead?

A couple brands have told me that their goal was to look like Bonobos. Brands wants to emulate success or popularity, not model themselves after inspirational brands.
 

Flanderian

Connoisseur
A couple brands have told me that their goal was to look like Bonobos. Brands wants to emulate success or popularity, not model themselves after inspirational brands.

Yup, the rush to the bottom!

Also-ran's imitate, market leaders innovate, educate and elevate!


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SG_67

Connoisseur
Isn't Paul Stuart made by Samuelsohn now? Why not take advantage of their MTM program which is usually cheaper than a RTW PS?

Ready to wear Paul Stuart starts at a pretty reasonable price point.

Also, as MattS mentioned, the cut and overall style will be different.

I know some here have experience with MTM Samuelsohn, but I’m willing to bet that with the premium fabrics that Paul Stuart offers, the price will be pretty much inline.
 

rockstar57

New Member
Ready to wear Paul Stuart starts at a pretty reasonable price point.

Also, as MattS mentioned, the cut and overall style will be different.

I know some here have experience with MTM Samuelsohn, but I’m willing to bet that with the premium fabrics that Paul Stuart offers, the price will be pretty much inline.
Makes sense, but aside from fabrics, we are comparing Samuelsohn MTM with Paul Stuwart RTW, I assume Sammy should give a better fit?
 

Matt S

Connoisseur
Makes sense, but aside from fabrics, we are comparing Samuelsohn MTM with Paul Stuwart RTW, I assume Sammy should give a better fit?

It depends on the person measuring you for MTM. If Paul Stuart RTW fits well (and they have various models) then that is more reliable than MTM.

This thread is about Paul Stuart's style, which you won't get anywhere else. I know a Paul Stuart suit when I see it.
 

SG_67

Connoisseur
Makes sense, but aside from fabrics, we are comparing Samuelsohn MTM with Paul Stuwart RTW, I assume Sammy should give a better fit?

It depends on the cut and the person.

Keep in mind, when it comes to fit, a made to measure suit is basically an off the rack fit that has been adjusted and altered for the specific wearer. Of course, the alterations tend to be more complex than just the basics, but it’s not a bespoke fit.

So if off the rack fits with just the basic alterations needed, then the only other reason to do made to measure is for the fabric selection and customized features such as the lapels, pockets, etc.
 

SG_67

Connoisseur
Is Paul Stuarts style being influenced more by their current owners? - looking to exploit wider markets?

I suppose that’s something that is in the eye of the beholder and in the minds of those at PS determining the strategy of the business.

When one walks into a Paul Stuart store, one is confronted with a variety of styles and options, from basic to a bit more extravagant. Obviously any retailer is going to try to cater their selection to what they think their customer will want and react to.

If you want an example of how Paul Stuart still offers a classic cut, take a look at the WAYWT and check out some of what upr_crust is wearing.
 

Flanderian

Connoisseur
A significant part of my dissatisfaction with Paul Stuart resides in my dissatisfaction with the current cut of British/American fashion, which went off the rails for this fellow some time ago. Characterized by narrow lapels, shoulder top gorge, mid-sternum button placement and a Thom Browne like fit, I find it unappealing. Your mileage may vary.

But fortunately, the whole world does not follow British/American RTW fashion -


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