Phineas Cole at Paul Stuart.

Flanderian

Connoisseur
Phineas Cole has history. Whereas it's now Paul Stuart's youth/high fashion/metro-something line, the eponymous progenitor first came into view as ad copy. Paul Stuart's tradition of perhaps 35 or 40 years of lush and witty catalogs have often had themes; libraries, parks, etc. About 25 years ago, Phineas Cole was introduced as a mysteriously elegant character in a who-done-it themed catalog. He resurfaced periodically in references before becoming the name of Paul Stuart's new line perhaps four or five years ago.

The clothing is high fashion, and only for the very young, very thin and very brave. And while I am none of these, and very much dislike the cut, I find myself drawn by the audacity of some of the ensembles. Paul Stuart has long been the master of unusual and audacious pairings of color and pattern; they have always pushed the envelope, but not burst it. Not so Phineas Cole. The don't just walk up to the line, they stomp all over it! Can much of it be considered to be in bad taste? Unquestionably! But some of it is also brilliant, pairing colors and textures informed by classic clothing you will not find elsewhere. (The fuchsia suit we'll leave undiscussed.) I find myself drawn to examples such as this, showing cloth that appears tweed and which is so evocative of classic tweed patterns of the past when there was so much more variety. Pairing it with the light grey shirt brings back a classic example of what was new in the 1930's and worn by only the most sophisticated gentlemen.

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Edit: Here are a couple of short video clips offering a look in Paul Stuart with a two gentleman trying out some pattern and color harmonizing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MoQH4-q3Kr4&list=PLtmDtzasKBDOOu8dVqlQHjPjx-EuEd_tC&feature=player_embedded

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&list=PLtmDtzasKBDOOu8dVqlQHjPjx-EuEd_tC&v=DA1SkHwQw10
 
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Flanderian

Connoisseur
How young is very young? In any event, I think the jacket you pictured here could be worn by a gent of any age.

Very young is anyone below the age of 50! :icon_smile_big:

And while, excepting the cut, the jacket in my OP would be nice for someone of any age, of this prime example of the ilk-

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I am far less certain!
 

firedancer

Super Member
^ you didn't even need to post a picture! I've actually been admiring that suit since it was released a few weeks ago!

Different strokes for different folks. Would I pay the $2500 price? No way! An I seriously considering an Après holiday trip to Chicago hoping for a discount? You betcha!
 
In a funny coincidence, I've been browsing PS's website today. As somebody very young, very skinny, and sartorially brave, I can admit that a post-lottery win swing through some of those Phineas Cole offerings m-i-g-h-t be an ugly sight. I try to avoid wearing clothes that are too much more interesting than I am, though.

Also, deez shooz. Unf. Want.
 

Flanderian

Connoisseur
^ you didn't even need to post a picture! I've actually been admiring that suit since it was released a few weeks ago!

Different strokes for different folks. Would I pay the $2500 price? No way! An I seriously considering an Après holiday trip to Chicago hoping for a discount? You betcha!

I do not recommend fuchsia suits. And where the heck in St. Louis are ya gonna wear a fuchsia suit, anyway? :icon_scratch:
 

firedancer

Super Member
You're right. But dang it's cool. I would probably go for the chalk stripe number with the 1 and 1/2 breasted waistcoat. I would buy and wear the heck out of that fusia jacket on its own!

I own and wear a very old Niño cerrutti ( from the time when HSM had this and society brand as their higher end tailored pieces, not the nineties) Harris tweed in a reddish pink color and I find it to be a great piece. Wear tweed but have a pop of color at the same time. Love it.
 

Flanderian

Connoisseur
You're right. But dang it's cool. I would probably go for the chalk stripe number with the 1 and 1/2 breasted waistcoat. I would buy and wear the heck out of that fusia jacket on its own!

I own and wear a very old Niño cerrutti ( from the time when HSM had this and society brand as their higher end tailored pieces, not the nineties) Harris tweed in a reddish pink color and I find it to be a great piece. Wear tweed but have a pop of color at the same time. Love it.

You are a brave man! :icon_smile_wink:
 

firedancer

Super Member
I might point out that, although the models are sporting very skinny looks I've found the actual pieces to be much more forgiving. I mean the trousers for instance are just custom Samuelsohn.

They are trimmer no doubt but have plenty of room and drape nicely. All the plain fronts I own ( I think I'm up to a dozen now) actually have small darts that helps with the trimmer silhouette.
 

Flanderian

Connoisseur
I might point out that, although the models are sporting very skinny looks I've found the actual pieces to be much more forgiving. I mean the trousers for instance are just custom Samuelsohn.

They are trimmer no doubt but have plenty of room and drape nicely. All the plain fronts I own ( I think I'm up to a dozen now) actually have small darts that helps with the trimmer silhouette.

Interesting and surprising! You are speaking of Phineas Cole and not Paul Stuart's standard offerings?
 

CuffDaddy

Connoisseur
I suspect that "Phineas Cole" is the pseudonym of Bunny Roger's head in a jar (Futurama-style), which makes pronouncements and purchasing decisions from behind the scenes on Madison Avenue.
 

Fred G. Unn

Senior Member
All the plain fronts I own ( I think I'm up to a dozen now) actually have small darts that helps with the trimmer silhouette.

This is my experience as well. I have 3 pair of PC suit trousers that I purchased about a month ago and all have these little darts and side tabs. In all honesty, getting fit through the seat is my biggest problem with slim-cut trousers but the PC trousers really fit great.
 

Flanderian

Connoisseur
I suspect that "Phineas Cole" is the pseudonym of Bunny Roger's head in a jar (Futurama-style), which makes pronouncements and purchasing decisions from behind the scenes on Madison Avenue.

And so you sent me scurrying to my search engine, and an entertaining and rewarding journey it has been. An intriguing possibility!

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With such fascinating personalities in mind, I must commend to you an autobiography by a fellow attorney; Mouthpiece by Eddie Hayes, should you have not yet perused it. A Runyonesque character who out-Ruyons, Ruyon. Recommended to me by AK, it is a highly entertaining read, though sometimes sad. However it does deal with his love of fine clothes mainly in passing.
 

CuffDaddy

Connoisseur
And so you sent me scurrying to my search engine, and an entertaining and rewarding journey it has been. An intriguing possibility!

You see what I'm talking about? "That's some Bunny Rogers sh!t" was what I said to my sartophile brother when I saw the first Phineas Cole catalog. We immediately began harboring the hope that it would allow Paul Stuart to go chase after the "slim" crowd and keep making things like pleated trousers in their main line. This hope has been largely dashed. Still, and unlike 99% of the slim-fit stuff that gets pedaled with a minimalist, Mad Men aesthetic of boredom and constipation, the Phineas stuff is as interesting and inventive as men's clothing can be.
 
You see what I'm talking about? "That's some Bunny Rogers sh!t" was what I said to my sartophile brother when I saw the first Phineas Cole catalog. We immediately began harboring the hope that it would allow Paul Stuart to go chase after the "slim" crowd and keep making things like pleated trousers in their main line. This hope has been largely dashed. Still, and unlike 99% of the slim-fit stuff that gets pedaled with a minimalist, Mad Men aesthetic of boredom and constipation, the Phineas stuff is as interesting and inventive as men's clothing can be.

I thought the regular PS lines were still pleated -- at least the suits.
 
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