Question about First Tailorign Experience

zerobdr78

Starting Member
Question about First Tailoring Experience

Hey all,

Sorry in advance for the long post. After reading a lot of posts on this board and getting a lot of valuable info. regarding a properly fitting suit, I decided to purchase my first suit in a long time. I was in immediate need of a black suit for an upcoming wedding and with a budget of $250 I mostly looked at dept. store RTW suits.

I decided on a black 100% wool Tommy Hilfiger "trim fit" suit in a 36R with 30x30 pants. I got it on sale and came in below budget. I am about 5'10 and 145 lbs. Despite it being a fused suit, i'm happy with the suit and fit overall. But I knew that some alterations were necessary. So I took it to a locally owned mens shop who gets a lot of business from weddings and proms. Pant break and waist, jacket length and chest fit seemed good though I would have preferred a little more waist suppression.

The tailor mentioned that the suit fits great but recommended shortening sleeves ($37), tapering sleeves ($37), letting out the pant waist by 1" ($18) and tapering the arm pits in the dress shirt ($12). The suit has mild waist suppression but I thought a little more would suit me better. When I asked the tailor about performing waist suppression, he had stated he didn't want to take it in more because the double vents would start bunching up and the back wouldn't look right.

Is the price I paid for tailoring pretty typical or high for the work performed and is it true about vents bunching if waist suppression is performed? I have a feeling that maybe he didn't want to perform the waist suppression since it looked good in his eyes? Unfortunately I didn't get a chance to take pictures but I will as soon as I can.

I really appreciate any help and advice!

*If a moderator could fix my spelling mistake in the thread title I would really appreciate it!
 
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IT_cyclist

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
Prices seem about right to me. You might try putting some paper clasps on to simulate waist suppression to see what the vents do. I'm not sure what the tailor means by "bunching." I would think that they would open up. And you don't want that.
 

Matt S

Connoisseur
This tailor does not know how to take in the waist on a jacket with double vents. No problems should occur when this is done by a good tailor, so I don't know what WA is talking about. There are limits because at a certain point the front will start bunching up. I regularly add waist suppression to jackets with double vents, but the vents need to be remade. If the waist is taken in but the vents are not, then the vents will bunch up. You can actually take in the waist more on a jacket with double vents than you can on a jacket with a single vent. The single vent will open up if you add too much waist suppression.
 

paul winston

Super Member
Advertiser
Alteration costs will vary with where the shop is located. It costs more to have a shop in mid-town Manhattan than it does to have a shop in Newark,NJ. With the exception of the sleeve shortening ($37) the charges were very reasonable.
Paul Winston
Winston Tailors/ www.chippneckwear.com
 

SG_67

Connoisseur
I'll echo MattS. Sometimes an alterations tailor will tell you "it can't be done" in an effort to hide the fact that's it's HE/SHE that can't do it.

I've had the waist suppressed on single and double vent suits without trouble.

Of course, there are always limits to alterations so all of this assumes that what you're asking for falls within the parameters of the doable.
 

zerobdr78

Starting Member
Thanks for all the feedback, its really appreciated! Good to know the charges were reasonable for the work performed. I may end up taking the jacket to a 2nd tailor just to get a second opinion on the waist suppression. I think the jacket could be taken in a little bit more to better accentuate my slim/straight frame.

Could anyone recommend a good tailor in the Philly/South Jersey region? I saw posts on here from a few years ago recommending Ernestos in Philly and Centofanti in Ardmore (Which is a far drive from me). What is a generally reasonable price for waist suppression if they include remaking of the vents? I read somewhere between $50-$65
 
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Charles Dana

Honors Member
I may end up taking the jacket to a 2nd tailor just to get a second opinion on the waist suppression. I think the jacket could be taken in a little bit more to better accentuate my slim/straight frame.

Could anyone recommend a good tailor in the Philly/South Jersey region? What is a generally reasonable price for waist suppression if they include remaking of the vents? I read somewhere between $50-$65

My advice: Cool down a little bit.

Suppose, once you get your altered suit back from the current tailor, you post in this thread a few photos of yourself wearing the suit (in a room with lots of light). That way, you'd be able to get multiple opinions about whether or not the jacket would benefit from additional waist suppression--without your having to spend more time and gas money scurrying to this tailor and that tailor.

You'd have nothing to lose by posting photos. Perhaps your instincts are right on target, and the waist really would look better with further suppression. Or maybe this is a case where you need to be saved from yourself.

Let's have a look. Can't hurt--regardless of the consensus, the final decision about whether or not to have the suit go under the knife yet again would be entirely yours to make.
 

zerobdr78

Starting Member
My advice: Cool down a little bit.

Suppose, once you get your altered suit back from the current tailor, you post in this thread a few photos of yourself wearing the suit (in a room with lots of light). That way, you'd be able to get multiple opinions about whether or not the jacket would benefit from additional waist suppression--without your having to spend more time and gas money scurrying to this tailor and that tailor.

You'd have nothing to lose by posting photos. Perhaps your instincts are right on target, and the waist really would look better with further suppression. Or maybe this is a case where you need to be saved from yourself.

Let's have a look. Can't hurt--regardless of the consensus, the final decision about whether or not to have the suit go under the knife yet again would be entirely yours to make.

I definitely agree with your sentiment and advice. I'm feeling somewhat under pressure since the tailor said the suit wouldn't be ready until the end of this month and the wedding is in early September. Hopefully I can post some pictures on here after the suit is ready and still have time to make some final adjustments if something needs to be changed.

I know the amount of waist suppression can be somewhat subjective and I don't want to get into dangerous territory by thinking it needs more when it may not. More opinions are never a bad thing!

Hopefully I can still get some recommendations on a good Philly tailor as the place I took my suit to for alterations is about an hour away from me (long story).
 
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Charles Dana

Honors Member
I'm feeling somewhat under pressure since the tailor said the suit wouldn't be ready until the end of this month and the wedding is in early September.

Uh-oh. Even if, at the end of this month, you take the suit directly from the present tailor to another tailor to have the waist (and vents) worked on--without stopping to post photos--you may not get the suit back in time for the "early September" wedding. It would have to be a rush job, with no time for the second tailor to correct any problems if you are not satisfied. And that's assuming you are happy with the alterations made by the first tailor.
 

zerobdr78

Starting Member
Yes very true, rushing is never a good thing. I did manage to change the pickup date to August 29th so that gives me approx. 2 full weeks until the wedding day. Hopefully that gives me enough time to post some pictures on here and get any problems corrected, if necessary, based on the feedback.
 

WA

Honors Member
If you take in one place does it bulge out other places? There are different shapes to ribcages, too. Posted a link to David Carlin's book somewhere. Atailor posted other information at style forum.
 

Gurdon

Moderator
Sounds as if you are going to be wearing the suit somewhat often. Assuming it looks good when you pick it up, you can wear it to the wedding in reasonable style without trying to rush the waist suppression. If, on the other hand, you were to get back a botched job on the waste alterations, it might be difficult to have the suit ready for the wedding.

BTW, I have a couple of modestly priced fused jackets that look especially good. Well tailored inexpensive suits look much better than poorly fitting expensive suits.

Have a good time at the wedding,
Gurdon
 

zerobdr78

Starting Member
Thanks, the wedding is going to be over 2 days so i'm hoping everything goes smoothly. If I was going to be wearing it to just the wedding I most likely wouldn't be too concerned with getting the fit as perfect as possible. But your right, i'm in between jobs currently so this suit will be doing double duty and serving as a suit for interviews as well.

I know black isn't the best choice for an interview suit and I would have preferred a navy blue suit but hopefully I can pick up a better quality and different colored suit when I get a little more money. The suit I purchased has a somewhat high button stance as the top button sits about 2 inches above my navel but is inline with where my natural waistline is. Hoping for my next suit I can find something with a little lower button stance.
 
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