Troones

Senior Member
Gents, just a very simple question

Since fashion is cyclical, do you foresee on the horizon a return to 90s style suit jacket length and fuller cut any time soon? It seems the too short to cover your backside has been around forever.

I get that most here don’t care about fashion trends, but it would be nice to wear my sack suits and look somewhat like I’m dressed for the times for a change.
 

Troones

Senior Member
I take great comfort in your words, my friend, for I too am wearing the same designs as I did in the 1960! ;)
I should have added some extra info. I specifically mentioned 90s because as I recall, the fashion was not just regular length, but actually a little on the longer side. The reason that’s key for me is that I’m on the shorter side, and the conventional wisdom of wearing short jackets to make my legs look longer just ends up cutting me in half. That’s what makes me look shorter. And uncovered backside looks terrible on all men in my opinion.
If we got back to long jackets then I could wear what I wear right now and blend right in!
 

EclecticSr.

Super Member
Okay, if your willing, provide us with your height, or better yet a photo wearing some of your jackets.
Don't worry about trends, and least of all "fashion". Classic clothing will outlast the latest fashion or trend. cyclical a key word here, they come and go.

Some will follow the latest trend to the point of looking "clownish". A smart dresser needs none of that.
 

Troones

Senior Member
I’m 5’ 8”. But a real 5’ 8”, meaning without shoes, and even without hair for assistance.:confused:

I wear R because it covers my butt. Short jackets do not. I also prefer the full cut of sack suits because of how they move with me when I walk. I think longer and fuller cut is just better for me.
I have no full length photos of me to illustrate.

I guess my point was that if long cut jackets came back into style then what I currently wear would be suddenly contemporary. That would be a change for me. 🤔

@EclecticSr.
 

delicious_scent

Super Member
Okay, if your willing, provide us with your height, or better yet a photo wearing some of your jackets.
Don't worry about trends, and least of all "fashion". Classic clothing will outlast the latest fashion or trend. cyclical a key word here, they come and go.

Some will follow the latest trend to the point of looking "clownish". A smart dresser needs none of that.
Photos are always best, agreed.

I've read an argument that anyone into classic menswear is into fashion, and I'd agree with it.

It's a very particular aesthetic derived mainly from the 1940s and 1960s that we're all into.
 
G

Guest-35384

Guest
Gents, just a very simple question

Since fashion is cyclical, do you foresee on the horizon a return to 90s style suit jacket length and fuller cut any time soon? It seems the too short to cover your backside has been around forever.

I get that most here don’t care about fashion trends, but it would be nice to wear my sack suits and look somewhat like I’m dressed for the times for a change.
To the extent that men continue to wear tailored jackets, I would expect they will. The sweet spot in tailored clothing is where it is most flattering to men in general, and current fashion makes most look ridiculous. Fashion tends to vacillate between extremes. So my hope is that when jackets eventually again get longer, it is not to the extent as to appear foolish.

The super narrow lapels that have long accompanied short jackets have had a counter trend for several years in the Neapolitan inspired cut with broader ones. And I've noted some tailors have decided that if wider lapels are becoming more popular, ridiculously wide ones will be even more so. They aren't. Proportion and effect are everything.
 

EclecticSr.

Super Member
Finally, after a long period of some, not all, inane topics we may be back on the recovery.
The topic of style, classic dress that befits such a forum may be back on track.
 

delicious_scent

Super Member
Foolish argument, almost an oxymoron.
I can see that, fashion is often synonymous with trendiness.

However, trends can often set in place long term styles. The Duke of Windsor was quite trendy for his time and broke many rules and conventions. Today, we call that "classic menswear".

My point is that we dress according to particular fashions of an era.
 

Troones

Senior Member
Was a discussion about this and Hugo Boss ads from the '90s on SF.

Definitely interesting to notice the builds of the models and the preferred aesthetic back then.

Now that’s what I’m talking about. Notice how those jackets extend past the cupped hands which breaks the old rule of where the skirt of the jacket should fall.
 

delicious_scent

Super Member
Now that’s what I’m talking about. Notice how those jackets extend past the cupped hands which breaks the old rule of where the skirt of the jacket should fall.
It's a good look with the drape and length.

The gorge and lapel looks too low and wide for myself. It's arguable that it's balanced with the overall silhouette that's created. I wonder if the low buttoning point is comfortable when sitting.
 

EclecticSr.

Super Member
To the extent that men continue to wear tailored jackets, I would expect they will. The sweet spot in tailored clothing is where it is most flattering to men in general, and current fashion makes most look ridiculous. Fashion tends to vacillate between extremes. So my hope is that when jackets eventually again get longer, it is not to the extent as to appear foolish.

The super narrow lapels that have long accompanied short jackets have had a counter trend for several years in the Neapolitan inspired cut with broader ones. And I've noted some tailors have decided that if wider lapels are becoming more popular, ridiculously wide ones will be even more so. They aren't. Proportion and effect are everything.
I can see that, fashion is often synonymous with trendiness.

However, trends can often set in place long term styles. The Duke of Windsor was quite trendy for his time and broke many rules and conventions. Today, we call that "classic menswear".

My point is that we dress according to particular fashions of an era.
To guest, I normally dismiss guests posts, however you make salient points and invite you to join the forum as a member.

Delish, The duke in my opinion was never trendy, no more so than say Cary Grant, Fred Astaire. If they were to appear today would you call them out of touch with the classic, trendy. They had a sense of "style"
They really didn't break rules they understood them.
Was a discussion about this and Hugo Boss ads from the '90s on SF.

Definitely interesting to notice the builds of the models and the preferred aesthetic back then.

Okay, top photo I dismiss along with the pink backdrop. I lived through the 60s, 70s, 80s and 90s. Heck I'm still living today and never dressed like that.

Second photo, Boss, would the look be out of place today? I'll put aside that he tailored the uniforms for the Nazis. In a previous thread I gave him some room, he may not have had a choice.
I'm familiar with his clothing in the early 70s.


However, trends can often set in place long term styles. The Duke of Windsor was quite trendy for his time and broke many rules and conventions. Today, we call that "classic menswear".
[QOUTE]

My point is that we dress according to particular fashions of an era.
[/QUOTE]

The DOW in my opinion was never "trendy".
If Cary Grant or Fred Astaire were to appear today would they look trendy? Out of place?
They understood classic and didn't forsake for the sake of being trendy.

To this day many want the look of Grant's suit in North by Northwest. Astaire's bespoke clothing without any personal modification, as they were. The forums are full of attention paid to them.

I disagree with your statement that we dress according to particular fashions of an era., we are after all living in an era today are we not, yet I wouldn't wear anything the fashionistas are pushing today.

We may be on the same page, I don't know.

Ya see I speak every day language, fancy speak doesn't suit me but I do appreciate the interest you show and the contribution to a healthy debate. It is after all about clothing, a forum devoted to clothing.

Cheers.
 

EclecticSr.

Super Member
Now that’s what I’m talking about. Notice how those jackets extend past the cupped hands which breaks the old rule of where the skirt of the jacket should fall.
My rule, to the knuckle of the thumb and/or it must cover my bum, ass to those in Rio Linda.

I'll give you another rule, mathematics, your height divided by 2, subtract 9" for head ,,the length of your jacket in back minus collar. Does it work for everyone ? No, but more often than not it does work.

The only rule is the one that works for you in this regard. The rules are there to act as a guide, no one rule will fit everyone. Just don't end up looking like one of those in the pink photo, how long did that last?

Do you think Oxxford tailors care about current "fashion" when it comes to dressing men that know better? Let's say in the past 50 years?

Len Logsdail when it comes to suiting Larry Kudlow? Or, Mr. Kudlow's favorite Turnbull and Asser Regent collar shirts? Can any one accuse Mr. Kudlow or the many Oxxford clients of dressing poorly, better question, have they succumbed to trendy or latest fashion?

It's a good look with the drape and length.[QOUTE]

Delish, drape, length? If you want to study true drape you're pointing to the wrong images.
There are the drapes that cover windows and then the drape of the type rarely seen these days, save for a few bespoke tailors that understand and can create same. Perhaps lost in the 40s-50s.
 

delicious_scent

Super Member
Delish, The duke in my opinion was never trendy, no more so than say Cary Grant, Fred Astaire. If they were to appear today would you call them out of touch with the classic, trendy. They had a sense of "style"

They really didn't break rules they understood them.

Okay, top photo I dismiss along with the pink backdrop. I lived through the 60s, 70s, 80s and 90s. Heck I'm still living today and never dressed like that.

Second photo, Boss, would the look be out of place today? I'll put aside that he tailored the uniforms for the Nazis. In a previous thread I gave him some room, he may not have had a choice.
I'm familiar with his clothing in the early 70s.

The DOW in my opinion was never "trendy".

If Cary Grant or Fred Astaire were to appear today would they look trendy? Out of place?
They understood classic and didn't forsake for the sake of being trendy.

To this day many want the look of Grant's suit in North by Northwest. Astaire's bespoke clothing without any personal modification, as they were. The forums are full of attention paid to them.

I disagree with your statement that we dress according to particular fashions of an era., we are after all living in an era today are we not, yet I wouldn't wear anything the fashionistas are pushing today.

We may be on the same page, I don't know.

Ya see I speak every day language, fancy speak doesn't suit me but I do appreciate the interest you show and the contribution to a healthy debate. It is after all about clothing, a forum devoted to clothing.

Cheers.
Forum seems to have eaten the formatting, hopefully I have your post mostly correct here. I'll try and add some of my own headings to organize this better and avoid walls of text.

Fashion vs. Style? Are they separate, or is there overlap?
My point was that these people seemed to have set trends, thus being "trendy" in their era, and establishing particular styles that we've deemed to be classic.

As a forum, we've mostly followed these particular styles (and fashions from the 40s-60s). Doesn't have to be from today.

I completely agree they wouldn't look out of place today.

Basically my main point is that it's possible to be fashionable and classic at the same time, within a spectrum.

Fashion seems to be a dirty word, and it doesn't have to be. Fashion seems to be relegated to 'victims of the time and trends', whereas style is elevated and considered to be timeless.

I posit that they may not be separate and there is often overlap.

Personal Experience with "Fashion vs. Style"
The best example I can think of is my own susceptibility to trends within that spectrum.

I'm technically wearing "classic clothing" regarding proportions and details, but there is no denying I've adopted the trend and fashion of soft Neapolitan tailoring that is now widely available. It's incredibly comfortable and flattering on me. It also seems more appropriate in today's era by being more casual and less stiff.

My overcoats are by far the most trendy/fashionable. I have a mid-thigh length polo coat that I can see myself wearing for decades. I like how I don't have to worry about it getting dirty due to the short length.

Balmacaans have been super trendy/fashionable the past couple years. I bought a couple, as my obsessive posts have indicated. One is a knee length patchwork coat. The other is a giant houndstooth coat that reaches to my upper calf.

Both coats, despite being trendy and fashionable, have a strong reference point in classic clothing.

Hope this makes sense.

No problem, I appreciate the compliment Sr. Healthy debate can be enjoyable, and is one my favourite parts of internet forums.
 

delicious_scent

Super Member
Delish, drape, length? If you want to study true drape you're pointing to the wrong images.
There are the drapes that cover windows and then the drape of the type rarely seen these days, save for a few bespoke tailors that understand and can create same. Perhaps lost in the 40s-50s.
Yep, drape. The middle guy in the pink backdrop is a good example of what I was referencing. Slight excess fabric in the chest by the armpit.

Drape Cut is indeed special and its own thing.

This man is wearing Steed bespoke, which is probably the best way to get that look these days.



Here is another Steed picture


I'd love to be able to wear this style. It looks like a nice middleground between floppy Neopolitan tailoring, and a stiff, strong British cut.

I've heard it's also incredibly comfortable. I've seen it described as feeling like something is floating on top of you, and it almost seems too big..but it isn't!

My hope is that if Neopolitan tailoring has become so popular and available through many manufacturers OTR, that one day this will be possible as well. Even if only MTO or MTM.
 

TKI67

Elite Member
This whole concept warms the cockles of my TNSIL heart. Everyone ought to dress as they like, and I happened onto what I liked around 1958.
 
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