RTW Shoemakers

jcusey

Senior Moderator<br>Technical Support
Thanks to that crack pusher T4phage, I have learned that Riccardo Bestetti, a Milanese bespoke cordwainer, has introduced a line of RTW shoes. T4 says that they are made in his workshop to the same level of construction as his regular bespoke shoes, only on stock lasts. Follow the link to T4's post on Style Forum for some pictures. They look like excellently-made shoes.
 

epl0517

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
Peal and Co. today

The history of Peal and Co. is quite tortuous, and it seems, well understood only by a great few. Clearly, the make, price, and quality of the product line has varied tremendously over the years.

Less experienced shoe shoppers might appreciate a few words to be said about the quality of Peal-labeled shoes today.

A recent visit to a BB branch revealed a nice range of what appeared to be decent shoes, but I am not an expert to judge. Regarding their make, I could learn nothing from the salesperson except that they come from England. He believed, or wanted me to believe, that there currently exists a company called Peal, which makes shoes for BB. But this claim has been previously rejected on this thread and elsewhere.

What struck me is they that they seemed to be channel soles offered at a low price of $415. C&J (which is one of the makers Peal has used and may use presently) offers the least expensive English channel soled pieces of which I am aware, in its handgrade collection, and these pairs fetch £350 on Pediwear.co.uk, and about $600-700 in the US from Ben Silver, Turnbull & Asser, or Barneys.

How does BB keep the costs so low? Do they use inferior leathers? Is these shoes as high in quality as C&J handgrades?
 

jcusey

Senior Moderator<br>Technical Support
What struck me is they that they seemed to be channel soles offered at a low price of $415. C&J (which is one of the makers Peal has used and may use presently) offers the least expensive English channel soled pieces of which I am aware, in its handgrade collection, and these pairs fetch £350 on Pediwear.co.uk, and about $600-700 in the US from Ben Silver, Turnbull & Asser, or Barneys.

How does BB keep the costs so low? Do they use inferior leathers? Is these shoes as high in quality as C&J handgrades?

I would imagine that pricing for private-label production at C&J is a la carte -- so much for different qualities of upper leathers, so much for various sole qualities, etc., etc. Channeled soles would be just another option that BB could pay for if they wanted. I would assume that it wouldn't add much to the price that BB has to pay -- maybe $10 or $15 per pair. Overall, I don't think that the BB Peals made by C&J have the quality of C&J-labeled handgrades. It's difficult to articulate what all leads me to that conclusion, but they just don't seem that way to me.
 

epl0517

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
Channeled soles would be just another option that BB could pay for if they wanted. I would assume that it wouldn't add much to the price that BB has to pay -- maybe $10 or $15 per pair. Overall, I don't think that the BB Peals made by C&J have the quality of C&J-labeled handgrades. It's difficult to articulate what all leads me to that conclusion, but they just don't seem that way to me.

Thanks for the information. I didn't realize that channel stitching was that inexpensive, since I rarely see it on shoes selling for less than $500.

I would still be interested in your opinion about how current Peals compare in quality to similarly priced shoes, such as regular C&J, Alfred Sargent, Alden, and A&E.
 

jjl5000

Senior Member
What struck me is they that they seemed to be channel soles offered at a low price of $415.

Although channeled soles are not a definitive measure of quality, they are as you suggest synonymous with high-end shoes. Tricker's can be had from Pediwear for around $300 and IMO are outstandingly good value at this price point. Shoes feature channeled soles and a very close welt, which makes the shoe appear quite elegant.
 

trolperft

Senior Member
Although channeled soles are not a definitive measure of quality, they are as you suggest synonymous with high-end shoes. Tricker's can be had from Pediwear for around $300 and IMO are outstandingly good value at this price point. Shoes feature channeled soles and a very close welt, which makes the shoe appear quite elegant.

I agree.
I have a pair of Tricker's which is channeled soles. The upper leather is of good quality. At that price, nice value for money shoes.
 
Last edited:

aportnoy

Senior Member
Overall, I don't think that the BB Peals made by C&J have the quality of C&J-labeled handgrades. It's difficult to articulate what all leads me to that conclusion, but they just don't seem that way to me.

I completely agree. My BB badged C&Js do not have the same quality leather as my C&J handgrades and I find that finishing is also inferior. I think the BBs are benchgrade with channeled soles. I actually think the C&Js for Polo RL are a hybrid between bench and hand grades.

Plal sells handgrade for the same price that BB sells benchgrades, it's an easy call.
 

medwards

Honored Professor | Moderator, All Forums
St. Crispin's Catalogue

St. Crispin's -- St. Crispin's is based in Vienna, although both their bespoke shoes and their RTW shoes are made in Romania. From the descriptions on their website, these are handmade shoes; and I like the look of them very much. The last shapes are Central European, with high walls at the toe; but they're more elegant than, say, Vass's traditional lasts (not F, U, and P2 -- think Peter or 3636) or Dinkelacker's.

Panzeraxe has been kind enough to post (with Mute's assistance), the St. Crispin's catalogue in this . It is, I believe, the best online visual guide to this shoemaker's approach and offerings.
 
Last edited:

bobbyball

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
In praise of Bonora

I recently purchased a pair of tassle chestnut loafers from Duffers in Covent Garden. Their sale is on at the moment and in the basement they had some shoe oddments left. A mixture of Trickers, Santoni and Bonora.

They told me that during their short lived foray on Savile Row, they stocked Bonora and they were priced at £350 (I paid £95).

This is my first experience of this shoe and I cannot praise it enough. The shoe appears to be entirely handmade and not dissimilar in quality details to some Lattanzi I have.

The shoe is welted (I think a type of goodyear but more hand done IMO) with channelled soles and a bevelled waist. The leather is sumptuous with a hand burnished almost antiqued finish.

Although not relevant to the shoe itself, the packaging is superb with thick tasselled cotton shoe bags along with a booklet in Italian signed by the individual maker and explaining the process (I know it is marketing but nice all the same).

Given these as an example I would rate them very highly compared to Lobb RTW and Edward Green. They display a lightness but sturdiness that I am more familiar with in a bespoke shoe. Even at £350, their price would seem exceedingly competitive.
 

simj

New Member
Westons in London are at the £485 end whilst Edward Green RTW start at £520, so there's not a great deal in it for cost.
 

JWM1960

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
I bought a real nice pair of Alexander McQueen (Italy) cap toe dress boots at Bregdorf's last Fall.

Also please comment on Bostonian, and Cole-Hahn.
 

clee1982

New Member
I am hoping someone can answer a question I have on Testoni here. Have you noticed another Testoni that is not marked with anything other than just testoni, are they better, on par or below Black Label?
 

JWM1960

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
St Crispins link in the original post is not working. Does anyone know the current web address and can someone re[air the link in the OP so that it works. Thanks. This post is a great resource.
 

pkincy

Super Member
Some years ago a thread existed with the name of the different models from all the top RTW shoemakers along with a picture or pictures of that model that had been submitted by the OP or the membership.

Does it still exist somewhere?

Perry
 
Your email address will not be publicly visible. We will only use it to contact you to confirm your post.

IMPORTANT: BEFORE POSTING PLEASE CHECK THE DATE OF THE LAST POST OF THIS THREAD. IF IT'S VERY OLD, PLEASE CONSIDER REGISTERING FIRST, AND STARTING A NEW THREAD ABOUT THIS TOPIC.

Deals/Steals

Trad Store Exchange