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39K views 520 replies 15 participants last post by  Acct2000 
#1 ·
Turnbull & Asser: a Guide to Bespoke Shirt making -



The History of James Bond at Turnbull & Asser -

 
#14 ·
A postscript to the above video on Bridlen, this video shows them being made. While acknowledging that a skilled producer can produce what is essentially video advertising making anything look great, it does look like these shoes are pretty carefully made, though not likely one a time by a single shoemaker. And based upon the eye test, remarkable at their prices.

 
#28 · (Edited)
These two video reviews are reviews of the Yeossal brand of shoes. These shoes are the result of collaboration between the Singapore retailer Yeossal and Oriental shoe makers from Japan.

The first video is from The Elegant Oxford, and the second from Justin Fitzpatrick. They are both excellent, but the first one contains an unfortunate fundamental misstatement regarding an essential difference in construction between hand welted and Goodyear welted shoes. It states the difference is the difference between handsewn and machine sewn, and while that is one significant difference, there's another, perhaps even more significant one: Hand welted shoes are made by using a thicker insole into which the shoemaker hand cuts a lip to which the welt is sewn. Whereas Goodyear welted shoes have a rib of canvas, sometimes called the feather, glued to an insole or more rarely midsole, and the welt is then sewn to it.

There's been a great deal of debate as to the merit or detriments of each method. But irrespectively, it is a fundamental distinction in making.





Edit: Finished shoe trees look better, but I've found the unfinished variety to work better.
 
#30 ·
I cannot imagine anyone being able to watch the video above and not come out of it as a fan of Leonard Logsdail's . The sartorial world is a better place because all those early employers fired Logsdail, to the point that he eventually struck out on his own. The simplicity of his business philosophy is it's genius! ;)
 
#35 ·
In one of the Mahon - Dugdales videos, the weave comes up. Mahon mentions a little bit about sewing fewer pad stitches and probably some others. This depends on the purpose of what is wanted- purpose of achievement. And machine stitches kill opportunity of the iron. In the old days every stitch was pushed through with a thimble. Tailors were paid by the stitch and not by a general price. This is why poor people could go to a bespoke tailor. Rich people, not only got more stitches, if they wanted them, they also bought more clothes. Big cities gave room for specialist. The country tailor made whatever he could so he wouldn't have to plant potatoes, etc., to earn a living. How many of these small time tailors are still around? Some of these tailors are very good. Some understand why we wear clothes. (SR are statues clothes- snob.) (And, only the rich could buy fashions. That is where fashions come from.) Whatever tailor is chosen, pick one that can fit you well, no matter what the price is (higher price doesn't always mean better). Second, pick good cloth. That means the weave is 90 degrees, not even slightly off. Over time off bias weave will cause the clothes to fit poorly and look unpleasant, not to mention, become uncomfortable and, not last long.
 
#36 ·
R rated for profanity. Do not play if offended by same. Mods, please delete if you deem it inappropriate.

My former tailor's, former shop. Very different clientele! :eek: Rented as location set after his retirement and its closure.

How many times I stood in front of that 3-way mirror, or went behind the frosted glass partition to try on trousers! How many $$$ I left there! :D

Bespoke is addictive.

 
#37 ·
The two videos below are complimentary in their content. The top one is a discussion by Simon Crompton of his experiences in the differences between English and Neapolitan tailoring. And as you likely know, he has amassed a lot of experience.

The second is a presentation by Luca Rubinacci (In Italian so we can all practice our language skills! ;)) which, if you will bear with the subtitles ,is well worth the effort. Interesting too because the origin of The House of Rubinacci, a founder of the Neapolitan cut, stems from Luca's granpa Genaro who transported London style to Naples in the '30's, and reinterpreted it for the Neapolitan climate and tastes. So when Simon is talking about the traditional English cut, it's actually what's current fashion, rather at other times in its history.

I think the each tradition has much to offer, and while minimalist, the Rubinacci suit is rather spectacular in its own terms.



 
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