Alexander Kabbaz

Tech and Business Advice Guru
I was wondering what AK thought of their fabrics. I was waiting for him to respond.
The patterns are ... interesting. The quality of the cloth is so awful in one respect that I could not get past it: When a plaid is woven, care must be taken to insure that the size of the plaid is the same in the center of the cloth as it is by the selvedges. Likewise with stripes, the distance apart must remain constant. If not, parts cut from the center will not match parts cut away from the center. In my entire career I have never seen cloth as bad as this is. The plaid squares in the center were a full half-inch different than the ones near the selvedge. Cutting just one shirt required almost 3.5 yards of 60" fabric ... and I was still none too pleased with the matching.

BTW, I just received an Irish Linen shirt by Alex that is mighty nice.
Thank you very much!
 

bwep

Super Member
Holy Sh-boly he lives. Now I am disappointed with my purchases.... I think that as pocket squares go they are very nice fabrics, but who am I?
 

Alexander Kabbaz

Tech and Business Advice Guru
Holy Sh-boly he lives. Now I am disappointed with my purchases.... I think that as pocket squares go they are very nice fabrics, but who am I?
Sorry ... been completely under water building the new CustomShirt1 web site ... and also stuck in the back room trying to keep this @(&^#@*&$ forum from crashing.

The pocket squares are lovely. Plaid & stripe matching is irrelevant when it comes to pocket squares - nothing to match. S-G has been around for centuries and still makes a darn good square. If I carried cotton squares (my personal preference is for silk) I might put in a few of theirs although I would probably lean towards Switzerland's Christian Fishbacher. Their quality is somewhat better and their patterns a bit more interesting.
 

RJman

Advanced Member
I agree, fabulous squares. But I just paid $45/per at Venanzi and plan on going back for more, for me and a friend!
Thanks aportnoy -- am touched you remembered to get me a present.

Here are pics of mine, from the French Alan Flusser, Marc Guyot, at a relatively reasonable 30 euros:

Linen/cotton with pink edging:



Multicolor madras:





This one is NOT Simonnot Godard, it's made in Italy, but I liked it and picked it up at one of the oddly named Anglophile shops on Boul. Malesherbes:

 
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SilkCity

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
Turnbull carries their voiles -- Alex made the ones I have.

Salvatore Piccollo carries the chambray (as an aside, would not recommend Salvatore -- he is not particularly good at fitting -- it was my handmade shirt experiement -- and the shirts were not even 100% handmade).
He is kind of hit or miss
 

iammatt

Advanced Member
He is kind of hit or miss
It is incredible to me that anybody tries Piccolo. He has the reputation as no better than a third rate shirtmaker in his own city (not third best), yet somehow he picks off New York customers like they were low hanging apples.

The chambray is very nice. I am wearing a pink button down today.

IMHO, and from what I have heard, Scafora is the only one of that traveling pack that is worthwhile. Apparently Sabino was a good tailor thirty years ago, but now he is a high production semi-machine tailor like so many of the big brands from Naples. If you visited the showroom, this would not surprise you.
 
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Panzeraxe

Senior Member
To be honest, I was reasonably happy with my Piccolo shirt. He, unlike many other shirtmakers I have dealt with, was very patient during the fittings and even insisted (despite being a traveling shirtmaker) that he give me an extra fitting as he was not entirely happy with the shoulder of the shirt. The resulting shirt fit well but perhaps not as precisely as my Geneva's.

On the handmade point, he was upfront with me and pointed out that only the shoulders were handsewn (buttonholes and everything else are machine-made).

Panzer
 

Smooth Jazz

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
It is incredible to me that anybody tries Piccolo. He has the reputation as no better than a third rate shirtmaker in his own city (not third best), yet somehow he picks off New York customers like they were low hanging apples.

The chambray is very nice. I am wearing a pink button down today.

IMHO, and from what I have heard, Scafora is the only one of that traveling pack that is worthwhile. Apparently Sabino was a good tailor thirty years ago, but now he is a high production semi-machine tailor like so many of the big brands from Naples. If you visited the showroom, this would not surprise you.
Don't disagree on Piccolo -- he is indeed pathetic. One not so costly experiment was still okay by me to see what all the fuss was about. With me he promised a 100% handmade shirt but did not quite deliver that.

Candidly, Scafora is no better -- the shoes are bespoke only in name -- they really don't fit.

And Sabino is the absolute worst!!! The clothes he has on look terrible.
 

Smooth Jazz

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
You know what -- I still love them -- you did a masterful job on them!!!

The patterns are ... interesting. The quality of the cloth is so awful in one respect that I could not get past it: When a plaid is woven, care must be taken to insure that the size of the plaid is the same in the center of the cloth as it is by the selvedges. Likewise with stripes, the distance apart must remain constant. If not, parts cut from the center will not match parts cut away from the center. In my entire career I have never seen cloth as bad as this is. The plaid squares in the center were a full half-inch different than the ones near the selvedge. Cutting just one shirt required almost 3.5 yards of 60" fabric ... and I was still none too pleased with the matching.

Thank you very much!
 

newtrane

New Member
Sorry ... been completely under water building the new CustomShirt1 web site ... and also stuck in the back room trying to keep this @(&^#@*&$ forum from crashing.

The pocket squares are lovely. Plaid & stripe matching is irrelevant when it comes to pocket squares - nothing to match. S-G has been around for centuries and still makes a darn good square. If I carried cotton squares (my personal preference is for silk) I might put in a few of theirs although I would probably lean towards Switzerland's Christian Fishbacher. Their quality is somewhat better and their patterns a bit more interesting.
Are you sure that Christian Fischbacher makes pocket squares? I have only seen bedlinen, towels and interior fabrics from him so far. Thanks.
 
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