Strangely enough, I've seen some shots of 3P heavier suits, especially tweed, where the tieless look is sort of Okay...but dark 2P, still no.I think it only works casually and in warm weather, although to get it to look right, one must be wearing a light-weight two-piece suit with a loop-collar shirt, collar out. Maybe I've been looking at too many old photos again.
Great quote from a really good novel. That is my favorite Auchincloss book - he upped his game for that one. The characters are more fully developed, the interpersonal relationships deeper and more nuanced and the sweep of the story is broader than his other novels (or at least the several I've read).While this is not the Trad Forum, I have been surprised that no posts refer to the Rector of Justin. In chapter 2, Auchincloss has the title character encounter some students taking advantage of a new master's uncertainty about discipline by removing their ties. The Rector orders the ties back on and tied, then utters the sentence that applies to many abandoned standards of dress that we discuss here, "When a gentleman undresses, a gentleman goes to bed." There it is.
This is porbably the only time this VigLink stuff's actually helpful, you'll get to a picture of one if you click it (altough I button them up all the way).What is a mao collar?
Your post raises some interesting issues, and bears upon some thoughts I've had recently about '70's menswear.1936 or not, the guy with the suit on without the tie foreshadows the ugly 1970s disco suits (shows they got some things wrong even in the 1930s style world, occasionally)
The best thing about cellphones is not having to use disgusting public phones (and in NYC by the 1970s, disgusting was the best thing you could say about them).
I always thought the turtleneck was the "acceptable" way to wear a suit without a tie in more casual situations and I like the look - but for some reason, that seems to have all but disappeared. Wasn't the idea that the turtleneck covered the open neck and went high up and, thus, had enough structure to be consistent with the suit (which is echoing Jovan's point about an OCBD at least "standing up" on its own)?
A banded collar is not the same as a Mao collar. The Mao collar folds down and looks similar to a point collar without tie space. Have a look at any photo of Mao Zedong.I refer to them as "Banded" collars, popular in the 80's, always the top button would be buttoned, usually worn with a suit.
Never heard the term "mao collar"
Sums up my view of the matter to perfection. How many times has this topic been hashed over in this forum, I wonder?I agree with several above that a light colored, more "casual" suit can be worn well with a buttoned polo, or a button-down or other that sort of stands up. But a dark "serious business" suit with spread collar and no tie always makes me think the guy was wearing a tie but took it off because "Jeez, dese t'ings makes me feel like I'se chokin'". A bit Slobbovian.