RogerP

Connoisseur
Greetings All,

I seem to be in headlong free fall down the slippery slope of mens coats. My recent purchases of a vintage Burberry trench coat and contemporary Barbour waxed cotton jacket have made me realize that they are the only two outerwear garments in my wardrobe for which I hold any genuine affection.

They just seem to be infused with character and style, with a neat bit of history behind them to sweeten the deal. The rest of my pre-existing outerwear options are all very much okay, but neither delight nor inspire.

As I continue to ponder my future purchases, I have been a bit frustrated in my AAAC research by the absence of a dedicated coat thread.

A recent and very informative article was recently posted here: https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/threads/the-ask-andy-guide-to-winter-coats.242236/

And of course there are untold dozens of separate threads dealing with specific inquiries about particular garments.

I have always felt that it is better to create the type of content one wishes for, rather than merely complaining of its absence - so this is my attempt to do so. You are all invited to contribute any and all content on the subject of men's coats - all styles that might be worn in all seasons are welcome.

Please post questions, discussions points, recent purchases, and perhaps especially any exemplary samples you have come across in your sartorial browsing. Such can be a welcome source of inspiration!

I'll start with my most recent purchase, which arrived just moments ago from across the pond (impressively, in just two business days) from The Rake.

It is a Grenfell Cloth double-breasted Shooter Jacket in what I feel to be a particularly attractive shade of olive green.

Photos below are courtesy of https://therake.com/ - I'll add my own fit pics and some first impressions when the opportunity presents.







Some random out-of the-box thoughts:

  • The material has a pleasant sheen and a lovely drape.
  • I like the belted look on a short coat - something less often seen in today's men's coats.
  • The interior game pockets are a nostalgic reminder of my Pheasant hunts in the past, but will far more likely be stuffed with more pedestrian accouterments in this instance.
I am next considering a long coat - well likely more than one. Some variation of a trench coat in a cotton / gabardine and something in a heavier and more formal wool / cashmere.

A duffle coat is also on the wish list, and I'm even pondering a parka.

So what floats your boat in men's coats? Please share.
 
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momsdoc

Connoisseur
That’s a handsome utilitarian coat. I agree the belt makes all the difference in the world. There are far too many beltless coats out there.

I have a number of older coats I consider special and unique, but I can’t compare mine with those taken by a professional photographer. So I’ll post two of my favorites, which are new enough that I can grab the photos from the websites.

They have been seen before, but this is a good venue to showcase them. I’ll add the others that warrant sharing with poor quality home pics as they get worn.

First up, Cordings Original Covert Coat.

The cloth is made to the original standards by the mill that invented it, Fox Bros.

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It hits all the right buttons. Coming to below the knee (IRL as opposed to the extremely tall model wearing it), with a wrinkle proof drape.

The purple Cordings lining, and under collar crest are a nice touch known only to the wearer. Incredibly cold, wind and water resistant, not to mention thorn proof and camouflages horse hair.

The inside poachers pocket can hold my hat, gloves, scarf, and iPhone without much bulge noticeable. Why it’s even big enough for a rabbit!

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I have the brown velvet collar on mine. The railroad stitching gives it a distinctive touch. Worn with a suit, a sports coat or casually, it is the most versatile of winter coats.


Next up is my newest addition, and the one that gets the most compliments outside of the Covert coat.

The Robert Stoltz brand Austrian Tirol Loden Hunting Coat.

The color alone sets it apart. Then there is the dense but not overly heavy loden cloth. Water and wind bounce off of it. Cut in the traditional Austrian manner of large flowing coats, it swooshes around you as you walk, yet does not appear baggy.

Indeed it folds upon itself to give a regal drape. There are pass thru slots behind the pockets, so you can reach directly in to your trousers or inner coat to retrieve keys, wallet, extra cartridges.

The underarms are left open with the edges trimmed and stitched to allow freedom of motion in bringing your gun to bear. Yet with the passthroughs in the front and the openings under the armpits, no wind or cold enters.

The football leather buttons and throat latch finish it off. Or so one thinks, until you turn around, and reveal the dramatic arrow pleat.

Long, striking, regal and warm, it is a comfortable statement piece craving layering with chunky sweaters, suits, or heavy HT sports coats.

For those who want even more warmth (though I know not why), it comes in a style called “Shiver No More).

Same coat but without the front pass through, and with a zip in lining.


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momsdoc

Connoisseur
I found some usable pics of another great coat. I consider this the ultimate in warmth. A Marlboro Man style Shearling.

It was found accidentally during a visit to a now defunct Linden NJ leather jacket manufacturer. I went there looking for a bomber jacket only to find out that they had switched to producing only leather motorcycle jackets and police jackets, However the owner invited me to browse thru his ranks of dead stock.

It was then that I discovered 2 shearling that he sold to me for a song. The first, to be pictured later was a black leather shearling car coat, The other was the deep tan suede exterior, full shearling, shawl collar, Western style coat pictured here. It reminded me of the shearling coats worn on the Ponderosa, only heavier and thicker.

Made from Brazilian Shearling pelts, it weighs in at 6 pounds. It is unbranded with the only labeling being the size, contents, and an emblem certifying the Providence of the pelts.

I can see surviving a crossing of the Sierra Madres in the dead of winter on horseback, thru a blizzard in it.

Here I’m wearing it on The Big Island of Hawaii in 90 degree weather, preparing to trek to the top of Mona Loa where the temps reach below freezing.

It made for an odd sight at our beachfront hotel. But I was the envy of our small tour group when we were at altitude.

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RogerP

Connoisseur
Terrific contributions Momsdoc! The Robert Stoltz brand Austrian Tirol Loden Hunting Coat is a truly handsome garment. Is yours the "full" or "regular" fit from that brand?
 

momsdoc

Connoisseur
I can’t tell you. When I purchased it last year there was only one fit. Your only choices were chest size and short, regular, or long.

Robert Stoltz was very accommodating in getting me into the right size. He has a distribution warehouse here in NJ and sent me 6 coats 36, 38, 40 in short and regular.

You might remember the pic I posted with my office covered in Loden coats. You would have to call the number on the website, which is answered by Robert, and inquire what fit last years model would correspond to.

They are by nature very full cut. I am a size 40 in all my overcoats. This one is a 38 R and with a heavy weight HT jacket and vest the shoulders fit.

I have been able to carry my 9 month old niece on my chest wearing said HT in a Baby Bjorn carrier and close the coat with plenty of room to spare and still have room to hide a small child Or two under the skirt of the coat.

I’m 5’9” and it falls halfway between the bottom of my knee and my ankle
 
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RogerP

Connoisseur
I can’t tell you. When I purchased it last year there was only one fit. Your only choices were chest size and short, regular, or long.

Robert Stoltz wats very accommodating in getting me into the right size. He has a distribution warehouse here in NJ and sent me 6 coats 36, 38, 49 in short and regular. You might remember the pic I posted with my office covered in Loden coats. You would have to call the number on the website, which is answered by Robert, and inquire what fit last years model would correspond to.

They are by nature very full cut. I am a size 40 in all my overcoats. This one is a 38 R and with a heavy weight HT jacket and vest the shoulders fit, and I have been able to carry my 9 month old niece on my chest wearing said HT in a Baby Bjorn carrier and close the coat with plenty of room to spare and still have room to hide a small child Or two under the skirt of the coat. I’m 5’9” and it falls halfway between the bottom of my knee and my ankle
I'm guessing from the description that yours is the full cut - and they have since come out with a more trim fit that they chose to call "regular" - given that the full cut is recommended for layering over suit or sportcoat. But I would take your suggestion and call first if I chose to purchase one.

It didn't take long to give the Grenfell its first outing.

 

momsdoc

Connoisseur
I’m not sure if you’re crazy or inspired. Tell us about it. Are those shearling cuffs and collar or is it a full shearling? If its a full shearling I am getting intrigued.

In what circumstances would you wear it? The leather trim on the sleeves and on the bellows pockets make it a striking informal coat. I think those touches preclude a suit, but otherwise I can see it being worn for all other circumstances.

it’s growing on me as I type. I really like the button closures. Is it loden, canvas, or melton?

do you have the Cajones to wear it. My first thought was that it was over the top. Now I’m at F**k it, I’d wear it. I’d be itching to have Jodhpurs on with it. Where on earth did you run across it? Why do I think it needs a scabbard and sword?
 

delicious_scent

Super Member
I'm guessing from the description that yours is the full cut - and they have since come out with a more trim fit that they chose to call "regular" - given that the full cut is recommended for layering over suit or sportcoat. But I would take your suggestion and call first if I chose to purchase one.

It didn't take long to give the Grenfell its first outing.

This is awesome. It's like a combination of some of my favourite pieces of clothing. Peacoats, field jackets, and a bit of safari jacket too.

Woof @ the pricing though!
 

icky thump

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
Great stuff.

I recently bought a vintage camel duffle coat for $50 through Etsy and get more compliments than all my other coats combined.

I also bought a black Loden coat through landau which is nice. Add to that a Border which is now a size too big and a go-to Beaufort. The Barbours I tend to eschew below 30f. I also have a few casual parkas from Uniqlo which do the job when it is very cold.

After watching “Peaky Blinders” I’m determined next one will be a Crombie. Redundant, probably.
 

momsdoc

Connoisseur
Roger,
I’m still anxiously awaiting to your response to my comments on that long green shearing lined long coat. The more I look, the more intrigued I get.

Meanwhile back at the farm, I’m sporting a Duffe Coat that has undergone a metamorphosis in my appreciation of it. Of course that invites the backstory.

A long, long time ago, in a Galaxy far, far away ( I’m going to Star Wars today with my son. Then getting Chinese take out to celebrate our 37th Anniversary and have a traditional Jew Christmas.).

Before I was woke sartorially, I had a desire for a Duffle Coat. Hav never heard of Gloverall or Schott, I ventured into Bloomingdale’s in my quest. Circa 2000 more or less. I came upon this coat. It had horn toggles, sleeve epaulets, a detachable hood, and leather fittings. At the time, I was unaware that these were desirable characteristics. I just liked it.

It was very heavy and stiff, but I figured it would be warm. For the next few years I kicked myself for buying it as it was so heavy and stiff. I figured I would replace it one day with a more refined version.
By the time I joined AAAC it had a a dozen years of use and had softened considerably. I had lost 68 lbs by then, being about 30 lbs less than at the time of purchase. I was swimming in it. Thankfully, I had a good old school tailor at the time, and he did an excellent job taking it in. It still has room for all the heavy layering I could want, but doesn’t look too big without the layering.

The wool has held up like iron, softer, but as pristine as the day the material was weaved. Absolutely no signs of wear in 20 years. I now consider it one of my ignorant, dumb luck purchases, and it gets frequent use.

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RogerP

Connoisseur
I’m not sure if you’re crazy or inspired. Tell us about it. Are those shearling cuffs and collar or is it a full shearling? If its a full shearling I am getting intrigued.

In what circumstances would you wear it? The leather trim on the sleeves and on the bellows pockets make it a striking informal coat. I think those touches preclude a suit, but otherwise I can see it being worn for all other circumstances.

it’s growing on me as I type. I really like the button closures. Is it loden, canvas, or melton?

do you have the Cajones to wear it. My first thought was that it was over the top. Now I’m at F**k it, I’d wear it. I’d be itching to have Jodhpurs on with it. Where on earth did you run across it? Why do I think it needs a scabbard and sword?
Lol my friend I went through EXACTLY the same progression of thought. Cuffs, pockets and collar are shearling, lining is mohair. Millerain waxed cotton for the outer shell.

Would I wear it? Yes, I believe I would. Though it certainly would be a significant departure. It does present as something from a different place at time and arguably borders on costume - but it's also interesting and uncommon and the very opposite of boring.

I think a scabbard and sword would be the perfect accessories!

I found it here:

 

never behind

Senior Member
Great thread idea Roger. Over the past year+ I have found myself wanting to start a coat collection. I purchased a nice overcoat from O’Connell’s and a Barbour Bedale. I added a duffel coat and USN pea coat from EBay. It’s been nice to have some options on what to wear. I’ll try to post some pictures in the coming days/weeks.
 
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