Thin and Athletic built guys - Do you wear 'traditional cut' OCBD shirts?

Fading Fast

Connoisseur
...IMHO the Regent fit is basically a Trad fit for my build as there is extra fabric around the waist and extra room in the sleeves. I do have one BB Milano fit and while it fits and looks good on me the arm holes are cut a bit too high for my taste. For this reason I stick with the Regent.

Ditto. I've made the point many times that on thin frames like ours, the slim (not skinny) shirts (suits, trousers, etc.) fit similar to how traditional fit clothes fit regular sized guys.
 

rbstc123

Super Member
Ditto. I've made the point many times that on thin frames like ours, the slim (not skinny) shirts (suits, trousers, etc.) fit similar to how traditional fit clothes fit regular sized guys.

For me, at the end of the day it’s all about proportions. I’m always aiming for Cary Grant. [emoji16]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

delicious_scent

Elite Member
https://oxfordclothbuttondown.com/2013/09/the-myth-of-the-slim-fit-shirt/

I know Jerrod's intent was to sway away from slim fit, but I think it had the opposite effect. With a jacket, it looks fine. Without one, it does not, especially the back.

Tucked-in.jpg

Back-of-Shirt.jpg
 

Fading Fast

Connoisseur
For me, at the end of the day it’s all about proportions. I’m always aiming for Cary Grant. [emoji16]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Even Grant himself agreed with you, as per this famous quote:


"Everyone wants to be Cary Grant. Even I want to be Cary Grant."

- Cary Grant
 

New Old Stock

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
Thats a great quote by Grant. When I read rbstc123's quote I thought of Woody Allen in Manhattan...
Yale: "You think you're God!"
Isaac: "I gotta model myself after someone!"
 

Hayek

Senior Member
I'm 6'1", 200 lbs (working on getting back down to my fighting weight of 190) and the BB regent fit is just fine for me. So is the Kamakura "new york" classic fit, which is their baggiest cut put still on par with the regent fit.

For spread collar dress shirts with a suit (I wear a suit most days), I don't mind the baggier cut from places like harvie and hudson since I'm wearing a jacket much of the time anyway.

Though now that I have re-located to a country with low labor costs and can buy bespoke shirts, suits, and sportcoats for very little money, I think I'll have a hard time going back to off the peg.

I think a lot of you guys (all posters here, really) would be a lot happier just flying once a year to southeast asia (bangkok, saigon) or the middle east (manama, maybe dubai) and stocking up on suits/shirts/sportcoats.
 

Vecchio Vespa

(aka TKI67)
I'm 6'1", 200 lbs (working on getting back down to my fighting weight of 190) and the BB regent fit is just fine for me. So is the Kamakura "new york" classic fit, which is their baggiest cut put still on par with the regent fit.

For spread collar dress shirts with a suit (I wear a suit most days), I don't mind the baggier cut from places like harvie and hudson since I'm wearing a jacket much of the time anyway.

Though now that I have re-located to a country with low labor costs and can buy bespoke shirts, suits, and sportcoats for very little money, I think I'll have a hard time going back to off the peg.

I think a lot of you guys (all posters here, really) would be a lot happier just flying once a year to southeast asia (bangkok, saigon) or the middle east (manama, maybe dubai) and stocking up on suits/shirts/sportcoats.
the travel would certainly be fun but it’s sort of in my DNA to try to gravitate to places like O’Connell’s, Eljo’s, Andover Shop, and the like.
 

Doctor Damage

Connoisseur
https://oxfordclothbuttondown.com/2013/09/the-myth-of-the-slim-fit-shirt/

I know Jerrod's intent was to sway away from slim fit, but I think it had the opposite effect. With a jacket, it looks fine. Without one, it does not, especially the back.

Tucked-in.jpg

Back-of-Shirt.jpg
There's nothing wrong with the fit of that shirt other than it doesn't match your pre-conceived notion of how it should fit. Take a look at old photos from Take Ivy and online sources and you'll see that back in the Ivy heyday they wore OCBD shirts loose-fitting.
 

Doctor Damage

Connoisseur
As David Mercer says, baggier is better. I don't like the skinned-rat look.
I guess you only consider the extremes as options.
That's exactly the problem with this topic and many others: even the "experts" like Mercer can't seem to distinguish, at least rhetorically, between the garbage-bag fit and shrink-to-fit fit, as if no middle ground exists. Both extremes are absurd. I really with people like Mercer (and Boyer, and others) would when they are running their mouths take more reasonable positions. Anyone who has spent too much time on clothing will understand what they're saying, but they are not helping rookies who don't know they're joking around.
 

Doctor Damage

Connoisseur
I always cringe when "traditionalists" insist skinny fit shirts are the devil and full cut the only correct and also trad way to go, because body types vary so extremely. I have a rel. thick neck for my waist and chest and could probably wrap myself twice in the "traditional" fit OCBDs. Sure, a 200lb guy will look ridiculous in a Milano fit, but that's simply not the body type the fit is made for.
I'm with you on this. I also have a thick neck and found that the original/traditional fit BB shirts are biased towards skinny necks which meant that once I got the right neck size the shirts were friggin' huge in the torso. I found that the Black Fleece shirts were the reverse and fit me well (my only complaint is their tails are short).
 

Cowtown

Senior Member
I'm with you on this. I also have a thick neck and found that the original/traditional fit BB shirts are biased towards skinny necks which meant that once I got the right neck size the shirts were friggin' huge in the torso. I found that the Black Fleece shirts were the reverse and fit me well (my only complaint is their tails are short).

I have same problem as well. I have used Ratio to get a fit that works for me but still don’t think they are quite as good as Mercer. In my latest Mercer order, I went with a 17.5 neck/16.5 body with 4 inches taken in off in the waist. The result is a bit bigger than the Ratio but very comfortable fitting shirt.
 
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delicious_scent

Elite Member
There's nothing wrong with the fit of that shirt other than it doesn't match your pre-conceived notion of how it should fit. Take a look at old photos from Take Ivy and online sources and you'll see that back in the Ivy heyday they wore OCBD shirts loose-fitting.
I know. I'm not a fan of it at all.
 

89826

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
Mercer isn't joking around. The slogan is trademarked, and he calls his distinctive full cut a matter of taste.
 
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orange fury

Connoisseur
Mercer isn't joking around. The slogan is trademarked, and he calls his distinctive full cut a matter of taste.

I know he won’t because it’s their trademark, but I wish Mercer would offer a slimmer fit (maybe as MTM), because I love their collars and like supporting small businesses. That said, with how many Brooks ocbds I own, I have zero need for another one
 

Hebrew Barrister

Senior Member
Nope. The cut should match your frame. If you've got some weight on you, a classic cut will flatter you more. If you're slim or athletic in shape, a slimmer cut looks the same on you as a classic cut looks on a larger gentleman. (note: I do NOT mean a skinny cut that wears like spandex).

150lb guys wearing shirts made for 200lb guys just don't look right. Looks like you're wearing a hand me down from your older brother.

Spier and Mackay OCBDs in slim fit me nicely. They fit me about the same as the lands end OCBDs I used to wear before I lost the weight. I never understand advocating any specific cut (classic, slim, etc) as a general rule - that leads to beer bellies straining against slim cuts and skinny dudes swimming in their shirts.
 

Hebrew Barrister

Senior Member
View attachment 25012
McQueen had an athletic build & appeared to have no problem with a traditional shirt.

I have both fits. When i wear milano fit its untucked without a tie. Shirts that will be tucked in and worn under a jacket can look like a parachute for all I care as long as the sleeve lengths and neck fit well. But the more comfortable I become with the "Trad" style (Im relatively new to it) the more I dislike the milano shirts.

Blasphemy perhaps but I don't think he looks good in that shirt at all. Too baggy about the waist and WAY too baggy about the arms.
 
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