Topcoats. Canali or Hickey Freeman?

I

ILeftNJ

Starting Member
Just retired and its time to retire my 30+ year old grey herringbone wool overcoat. There are a lot of choices for sure but Made in USA, UK or Italian are "at the peg". By that I mean top dollar like $2000 and more. HF never goes on sale and Canali's are less for Cashmere. Any recommendations or advice?
 
CLTesquire

CLTesquire

Super Member
The HF at $2k is at least 100% cashmere so that’s something. If they are equivalent on fit, I’d probably go with HF over Canali just because of this and because of where I hold a topcoat in the hierarchy of things I’m willing to spend money on. For a 5 minute walk from the car to the office and living in the south, it’s low on the list.

I would personally spend half on the one from O’Connell’s and use the money saved on shoes. :cool:
 
I

ILeftNJ

Starting Member
CLTesquire said:
The HF at $2k is at least 100% cashmere so that’s something. If they are equivalent on fit, I’d probably go with HF over Canali just because of this and because of where I hold a topcoat in the hierarchy of things I’m willing to spend money on. For a 5 minute walk from the car to the office and living in the south, it’s low on the list.

I would personally spend half on the one from O’Connell’s and use the money saved on shoes. :cool:
Click to expand...
Yea good advice. At my stage (retired) there are not many opportunities to wear one but def need new. Ed
 
Woofa

Woofa

Super Member
Certainly o connels 's has some great products. But quick question. Not sure of your lifestyle but I might question if a longer overcoat is really necessary or at least if it is worth spending $$$ on. I grew up around Manhattan and most men who worked there including my father had both a trench coat and an overcoat. They wore it over suits and sport coats and often were walking in a breezy and cold city. also great waiting on those frigid train platforms in the cold dark mornings. Once you retire however, depending on Where you live, I think the need Goes way down. Living in Suburbia and getting in and out of a car everywhere I go does not lend itself well to a long coat. Plus there is a good chance (even for an AAAC member) that you may dress up less now.
Might be worth a few minutes of thought as to how much you will actually wear something like this. There are certainly other options. Or, if you are not averse to used clothing maybe think about visiting some consignment stores, or even some thrift stores or EBay. It is certainly worth looking at to find a barely used garment at a fraction of the cost new. Leftover funds could be used for a shorter Barbour or similar which does not need to be taken off every time you get in the car.
Maybe other retired members have some thoughts.
 
D

drpeter

Super Member
Two points:

First, if you don't mind a coat from a thrift shop, there are dozens of overcoats and topcoats you can find from almost any maker at Goodwill and other shops in most areas. Sometimes, if you are lucky, you may even find brand new or NOS coats, often with the tags still on them. The prices I have paid range from $10 to $25, for 100% pure wool, 100% cashmere, or wool/cashmere blends. I have not bought an HF overcoat yet, but I have one from Hart, Schaffner and Marx, almost new. It's excellent and a great fit. These low prices give you greater flexibility to experiment a bit and try out different cuts and styles. Also, if you really like a particular garment or house style, then you could spend more money and buy a new one in that style.

Second, I have read (here in AAAC, if I recollect correctly) that cashmere is softer and finer, and therefore somewhat less durable over time than pure wool. Since overcoats can get fairly heavy or rough wear, this might be a point worth considering. But if your 30-year-old herringbone coat was cashmere, and wore well, then you could ignore this issue. I'm sure there are variations and grades in the quality of cashmere, like any other material, so this factor can influence your decision.
 
Matt S

Matt S

Connoisseur
Cashmere is lighter, softer and more delicate than wool. It feels better than wool because you get more warmth from less weight. Heavy wool, on the other hand, lasts a lifetime and is more wind-resistant. Finding a properly heavy wool coat is very difficult these days. Few places make proper overcoats anymore. It's mostly topcoats of heavy suiting rather than coating.
 
delicious_scent

delicious_scent

Super Member
Matt S said:
Cashmere is lighter, softer and more delicate than wool. It feels better than wool because you get more warmth from less weight. Heavy wool, on the other hand, lasts a lifetime and is more wind-resistant. Finding a properly heavy wool coat is very difficult these days. Few places make proper overcoats anymore. It's mostly topcoats of heavy suiting rather than coating.
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I found this nice coat in 720gsm fabric.

simonjamescathcart.com

Herringbone Ulster Coat

Belted Ulster overcoats are such a difficult find, let alone in 720gsm British undyed chunky herringbone weave. A coat with a patrol cut back with a central box pleat above the belt for ease of movement is Grail territory. SJC presents, straight out of Yorkshire, from Marling and Evans est...
simonjamescathcart.com simonjamescathcart.com
 
delicious_scent

delicious_scent

Super Member
Matt S said:
That one is a decent weight. Heavy by today's standards but lightweight by traditional standards. I had a 32 oz pea coat that felt amazing, and I'll probably never find anything in that weight again.
Click to expand...
Peacoats are easier to find in the heavier fabrics. Schott's 740N peacoat in a 32 oz. melton blend was my first coat, and it's still a workhorse for me today. Still sold as well.

There is a user who is literally named "Peacoat" on fedora lounge, and also posts on SF. He is an encyclopedia and is pretty helpful at finding vintage peacoats in the heavier weights.

Moon carries coating cloth in those weights if you've access to a tailor who takes outside cloth.

www.moons.co.uk

Navy - Abraham Moon & Sons

Not pink but scarlet. Originally all hunting rights belonged to the king and those taking part often wore the King’s livery, which was often scarlet. The tradition has lived on in riding coats everywhere. The origins of “pink” are not clear; theories of the colour of a weathered scarlet coat or...
www.moons.co.uk www.moons.co.uk

Lovat does as well

lovatmill.com

Heritage Coatings Archives - Lovat Mill is the Home of Tweed

In addition to our three Tweed bunches we stock the following heritage cloths. Each of these is a specialist quality, woven to the same exacting standards as set down by preceding generations of cloth makers. Enduring quality in a time of change
lovatmill.com lovatmill.com
 
Matt S

Matt S

Connoisseur
My tailor uses Moon cloth, so that would definitely be an option. That navy coating looks absolutely perfect! I will have to keep that in mind. Thanks for letting me know about it.
 
Matt S

Matt S

Connoisseur
delicious_scent said:
Have any pictures of that heavy coat?

What kind of coat is the dream item?
Click to expand...
Here's the coat. It's a British Warm style.

54512709_2207495936169716_7546044779124273103_n.jpg


My dream coat would be something similar to this but with an ulster collar and a three-quarter length. Both of those details would dress it down a little so it can work well over a sweater and still work over a blazer. An ulster collar is also better for turning up. So ideally it would be something like a bridge coat but a little shorter. And I want hacking pockets. The straight pockets on this coat are difficult to access. Despite how practical slash pockets are, I want the nicer look of hacking pockets. For now, the coat above gets the job done well.
 
I

ILeftNJ

Starting Member
Woofa said:
Certainly o connels 's has some great products. But quick question. Not sure of your lifestyle but I might question if a longer overcoat is really necessary or at least if it is worth spending $$$ on. I grew up around Manhattan and most men who worked there including my father had both a trench coat and an overcoat. They wore it over suits and sport coats and often were walking in a breezy and cold city. also great waiting on those frigid train platforms in the cold dark mornings. Once you retire however, depending on Where you live, I think the need Goes way down. Living in Suburbia and getting in and out of a car everywhere I go does not lend itself well to a long coat. Plus there is a good chance (even for an AAAC member) that you may dress up less now.
Might be worth a few minutes of thought as to how much you will actually wear something like this. There are certainly other options. Or, if you are not averse to used clothing maybe think about visiting some consignment stores, or even some thrift stores or EBay. It is certainly worth looking at to find a barely used garment at a fraction of the cost new. Leftover funds could be used for a shorter Barbour or similar which does not need to be taken off every time you get in the car.
Maybe other retired members have some thoughts.
Click to expand...
Great points. I did sales and was all over NE major cities. Had the Burberry trench and wool overcoat. I had looked at some used toppers too but wanted new, then came the sticker shock. I am a church goer and sadly when you get older you go to more funerals. Perhaps the Barbour or car coat makes more sense. This was helpful!! Thanks Ed O
 
I

ILeftNJ

Starting Member
Matt S said:
Here's the coat. It's a British Warm style.

View attachment 53902

My dream coat would be something similar to this but with an ulster collar and a three-quarter length. Both of those details would dress it down a little so it can work well over a sweater and still work over a blazer. An ulster collar is also better for turning up. So ideally it would be something like a bridge coat but a little shorter. And I want hacking pockets. The straight pockets on this coat are difficult to access. Despite how practical slash pockets are, I want the nicer look of hacking pockets. For now, the coat above gets the job done well.
Click to expand...
I bought this in London 1986 on Regent Street from Austin Reed. It's a 38R and now I am 42R! I think I am ready for something else. Thats a great coat. Impossible I think to find a British woolen coat today. Ed
 

Attachments

Matt S

Matt S

Connoisseur
ILeftNJ said:
Great points. I did sales and was all over NE major cities. Had the Burberry trench and wool overcoat. I had looked at some used toppers too but wanted new, then came the sticker shock. I am a church goer and sadly when you get older you go to more funerals. Perhaps the Barbour or car coat makes more sense. This was helpful!! Thanks Ed O
Click to expand...
Since you brought up funerals, I have a long chesterfield coat that I wear for funerals. My people's tradition involves a graveside funeral, and that chesterfield has been useful for outdoor funerals in the middle of winter. The heavy 32-oz weight and long length is indispensable for standing around in the cold for an hour. Though all that weight is a bit much for my shoulders!
 
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