Trad shoe question for Harris et. al.

jmorgan32

Suspended
quote:Originally posted by LeatherSOUL

quote:Originally posted by jmorgan32

quote:Originally posted by LeatherSOUL

quote:Originally posted by jmorgan32
PS Poster above said they have been out for a couple of years, but the Customer Service Rep at Alden's headquarters told me they are very new and that is why they are not in the catalog. Also, on the Sherman Bros site they don't have a size in the drop down menu and they told me it was because they are such a new item. Who knows.

So apparantly they are a few years old. I checked with my rep and I found an old Cape Cod price list dated 3/26/03 with the H435, h436, and H437 on it. The reason why Sherman and other retailers may think it is new is because it wasn't included in the previous catalog. The new one (green outside-that ALL dealers haven't received yet due to a mistake in it) has it included in the Cape Cod section.

When they came out it was up to the Alden reps to introduce it to their retailers. My rep introduced it to me back in 2004.

As for the website, as you can tell, Alden does not put a lot of emphasis on website updates. That is the only reason why it isn't listed online at aldenshoe.com.



"From our Soul to your Sole."

Makes a lot of sense. You sure know your products. Question on the leather itself------I have never worn such a soft calf. My experience has mainly been with shell cordovan and what I would call "regular standard calfskin" like you would find used for an Alden dress tassel loafer. As you know, this leather is very very soft, and after wearing for about a week (not a lot of hours admittedly) it shows virtually NO signs of wear. I like the character and wrinkles shoes get with wear. Are these ever going to look "well-broken in??"
Thanks,
Joe
Joe,

I think it would take a lot of wear to make it look the way you want. That tumbled softer calf is not only soft, it's think and less prone to that worn look. I'd just wear the shoe as a casual shoe to kick around in. If you want to develope some nice antiquing, stick with the hard stuff. :)



"From our Soul to your Sole."

Thanks LeatherSoul.
Joe
 

n/a

Senior Member
quote:Originally posted by Philip12

quote:Originally posted by Harris

WAHOOWA, old boy. That one's for my sainted father, a committed Cav.

A Hookville Hoo such as yourself might not have seen much of the 984 on the Grounds, but I can tell you that they were something of cult item among my college (not UVA) chums. The old N734 was a classic and decently made (of decent if not stiff leather), but nothing close to the 984. I've seen Myles wearing the 984 too many times to count, and I feel sure he would agree that it's one of only a couple of loafers in the entire Alden stock that could rightly be considered "classics." (The others being the 986 and the legendary 563).

Years later, after taking quite a beating, the 984's look great. Better than ever, all scarred-up and cracked and creased and stained. I'm not sure what caused the scars, cracks, and creases, but I feel sure I can identify the stains, most of which can be attributed to spillage: Guinness and Dewars. With the passing of the Friday and Saturday evening hours, so went the steady hands.

Cheers,
Harris

The 984 is my absolute favorite shoe. I had one extra pair for about 12 years that I had never worn. Sometimes I just took them out of the box to just look at them in pristine condition. They are works of art. My other pair must be more than 15 years old and I still wear them occasionally. The front part has 'collapsed', though, but they still look great with khakis.

Philip

The front part of mine have also collapsed. Bummer, since I dig the high/steep toe box or whatever it's called. The unlined Brooks are especially susceptible to the "front collapse."
-Harris
 

n/a

Senior Member
THE BEST Alden shoe ever doesn't (yet) exist. Sad, but true.

I'm here speaking of the Alden Leisure Handsewn Moc in the leather used for the Alden H410. Runner-up: tassel moc in the H410 leather.

If only!

Oh well. One can dream. I still cannot believe that Alden "doesn't own" that leather. Very strange.

-Harris
 

Horace

Senior Member
quote:Originally posted by Harris
Re-soled about five times.

Now that's Trad.

By the way, I love the old LL Bean tassle loafer -- not quite like the Alden but more like a weejun with tassles.
 

n/a

Senior Member
quote:Originally posted by Harris

THE BEST Alden shoe ever doesn't (yet) exist. Sad, but true.

I'm here speaking of the Alden Leisure Handsewn Moc in the leather used for the Alden H410. Runner-up: tassel moc in the H410 leather.

If only!

Oh well. One can dream. I still cannot believe that Alden "doesn't own" that leather. Very strange.

-Harris

We can keep the dream alive. Some how, some way...the H410 leather must be made available for make-ups. How, though? How can the dream become a reality?
 

jmorgan32

Suspended
quote:Originally posted by Doctor Damage

Can anyone suggest what is a good style for Trad lace-ups? Would a good example be a Norwegian toe, like the Alden 924?

Thanks,
DD

I do not believe so. In my opinion, the lace ups of choice would be either a wing tip or cap toe. Maybe a plain toe brogue, but not so much...................Hope that helps.
 

longwing

Super Member
quote:Originally posted by Doctor Damage

Can anyone suggest what is a good style for Trad lace-ups? Would a good example be a Norwegian toe, like the Alden 924?

Thanks,
DD

Given my job, I find I'm less self-concious wearing bluchers to work than tassels. Although I love my longwing bluchers, I think the plain toe blucher is probably more trad. Cap toe blucher is also very nice. For a bal, my vote would be with the straight cap or perf cap, either in black calf or No. 8 cordovan.

Like the longwing, though I don't think the 924 itself is particularly trad, it could look smashing along with an otherwise trad getup. Unless you are a Princetonian, there is no reason to be all trad all the time.

Any shoe made in No. 8 cordovan is trad enough in my book.
 

Tom Buchanan

Super Member
When I think of trad lace-up shoes, I think of heavy wing tips, with the "runner board" wing pattern and the double sole. The florsheim kenmoor comes to mind, and I know that Alden makes a better quality similar model (I dont know the name or number off hand). Church's used to make a similar model also.

The English and more elegant people on this board would call this a country shoe and generally consider it not appropriate for city wear. However, trad generally harkens back to the 1950's and 60's when manly, sturdy items were considered good (e.g., duffle coats, thick khakis, heavy sweaters, tweeds). The Free World was not saved wearing thin soled, pointed shoes (that was a joke).
 

xcubbies

Super Member
Anyone purchased and worn the Alden Dress Casual line? I'm thinking of their plaintoe bluchers in the pebble grain. I just don't need another pair of heavy cordovans and thought these might be a good compromise. They seem a bit lighter in weight, but not sure if they are as well made. Comments, gentleman?
 

longwing

Super Member
quote:Originally posted by xcubbies

Anyone purchased and worn the Alden Dress Casual line? I'm thinking of their plaintoe bluchers in the pebble grain. I just don't need another pair of heavy cordovans and thought these might be a good compromise. They seem a bit lighter in weight, but not sure if they are as well made. Comments, gentleman?

This past fall I got the lined Chukka w/ vibram sole in pebble grain, which is also barrie last. I like them a lot. I have thought about getting the plaintoe blucher someday. The pebble grain is nice. Wears well so far. Softens up nicely. I just wear them on weekends and I don't know how much wear they will get this summer - probably not much.
 

thealex

Starting Member
quote:Originally posted by xcubbies

Anyone purchased and worn the Alden Dress Casual line? I'm thinking of their plaintoe bluchers in the pebble grain. I just don't need another pair of heavy cordovans and thought these might be a good compromise. They seem a bit lighter in weight, but not sure if they are as well made. Comments, gentleman?
xcubbies,

I think you are referring to the 9430 which I have and enjoy wearing during the winter season. I particularly like wearing them for the rainy days because of the lug rubber outsoles. They are lighter than a typical double soled Alden cordovan, but not much. They may seem clunky to some people but I find them very comfortable. I give it a thumbs up. [^]
 

xcubbies

Super Member
Yes, I'm looking at the 9430S. Now I'm hoping that the Alden sizing is the same as the Allen Edmonds sizing, since it is a real headache to order shoes over the internet internationally.
 

winn

New Member
"It's actually a lot like the old tassel Weejun, which I don't think is made anymore." (rojo, 6 January 2006)

I still have two pairs of these - one vintage 1970, and on its umpteenth pair of leather heels and soles, and one vintage 1988. I think they were called "636" in dark brown, which is the description Bass uses for oxblood.

Yes, they are discontinued at this point (God rest their soles.)

Cheers,
Winn
 

jmorgan32

Suspended
quote:Originally posted by winn

"It's actually a lot like the old tassel Weejun, which I don't think is made anymore." (rojo, 6 January 2006)

I still have two pairs of these - one vintage 1970, and on its umpteenth pair of leather heels and soles, and one vintage 1988. I think they were called "636" in dark brown, which is the description Bass uses for oxblood.

Yes, they are discontinued at this point (God rest their soles.)

Cheers,
Winn

Winn, I had the same Bass shoes, but after resoling them many times (around 5 or 6 guessing) I was told they could not be resoled again. I guess with the construction, not being a Goodyear welt, there just becomes a time when you get a "pin cushion effect" as I call it. ie......no more "solid leather" to stitch a new sole too! nothing but holes left! oh well. Of course, they were very inexpensive, but I sure miss them. What a great look with jeans and khakis.
 

winn

New Member
J-

That has never stopped me! On more than one occasion with my Bass shoes - both varieties of Weejuns - I have just gone to my alternate shoe repair man in Princeton Junction than the one I usually go to in Princeton in order to get the repair achieved. "You again! Weren't you just here a year ago?"

Cheers,
Winn
 

winn

New Member
“Blucher Madnessâ€

“Given my job, I find I'm less self-conscious wearing bluchers to work than tassels. Although I love my longwing bluchers, I think the plain toe blucher is probably more trad.†(LongWing 12 January 2006)
Although not often, when I do wear lace-up shoes, it is definitely a black blucher. Right now, my leather sole version is a Bostonian Classic (probably discontinued - an outlet find in Freeport, Maine). My soft sole version is - believe it or not - Deer Stags from JCP ($35. On sale - at that price I got a pair in brown, too.) These serve me great when I am on my feet all day at construction sites or doing existing conditions measurements - and I don’t care if they get messed up in the process. I think Patrick is the only mention I have ever read of these here, and in his context, chasing down fly-fishing scandals in Litchfield County as a reporter - or something like that. For years, I wore the Florsheim version of this one, most recently called the “Lexingtonâ€


If I had to do it again, these look really snazzy.

especially the 990, dark burgundy cordovan, or its black shell equivalent, 9901.

“Unless you are a Princetonian, there is no reason to be all trad all the time.†(LongWing 12 January 2006) I resemble that remark. Laughing as tonight, I got home from a pub stop with friends at Conte’s for pizza wearing the solid black T, the Levi’s 505's, Adidas Country’s on the feet...and a charcoal grey herringbone sport coat (vintage ‘80's, BB). I will try to remember the pocket square next time...but then I will need to figure out which fold to use.

Cheers,
Winn
 

longwing

Super Member
quote:Originally posted by winn


If I had to do it again, these look really snazzy.

especially the 990, dark burgundy cordovan, or its black shell equivalent, 9901.

Just purchased the BB version of this at the recent $50 + 15% off sale. I am questioning whether the BB version is a barrie last shoe. Could be Leydon? I have a couple of barries already and this shoe seems more compact. Would love to do a side by side.
 

jmorgan32

Suspended
quote:Originally posted by LongWing

quote:Originally posted by winn


If I had to do it again, these look really snazzy.

especially the 990, dark burgundy cordovan, or its black shell equivalent, 9901.

Just purchased the BB version of this at the recent $50 + 15% off sale. I am questioning whether the BB version is a barrie last shoe. Could be Leydon? I have a couple of barries already and this shoe seems more compact. Would love to do a side by side.

What a classic. As Harris would say, "Nicely done!" I don't know how old you are Longwing, but I seriously doubt you will outlive those shoes. (sorry if morbid on the statement!) Hell, those things will wear like iron.
All the best,
Joe
 
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