Wingtip Shoes

Mr. Knightly

Super Member
I didn't mean to sound disparaging towards the design. My cordovan Mcallisters are one of my favorites. I actually wear them with narrow leg jeans a lot.
 

Robert Patrick

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
Teacher said:
You HAVE to be kidding! Yeah, I know these are very limited-run shoes, but no 13D? Ridiculous. Too bad, too, because they're gorgeous (and whiskey shell is my favorite). Unfortunately, despite my being a pretty normal 9D, they're out of my price range.:(

Just today I e-mailed Alden or Carmel about special ordering these exact shoes in a 12B. Below is the response I got. Sad - I love long wings and have been wanting a pair in this color for a while...

Hi Rob.

Thank you for your e-mail.

Unfortunately, our shop does not accept any special orders. We only sell the styles and sizes shown on our web site.

Sincerely, Adam, Alden of Carmel
 

Gurdon

Moderator
Until recently I did not care for wingtips. I associated them with old straight (un-hip) men with clunky shoes.

However, I now own three pairs, not one of them clunky. I especially like a dark burgandy pair of Lobb Westministers from ebay, new at about half price.

Am currently on the lookout for just the right pair of black wingtips, something trim, elegant and light, rather than thick-soled big-heeled American businessmen's shoes.

Good hunting,
Gurdon
 

Siggy

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
Gurdon, you may want to take a look at Edward Green's Malvern wingtip and Martegani's wingtips. Very nice!
 

Teacher

Honors Member
Robert Patrick said:
Just today I e-mailed Alden or Carmel about special ordering these exact shoes in a 12B. Below is the response I got. Sad - I love long wings and have been wanting a pair in this color for a while...

Hi Rob.

Thank you for your e-mail.

Unfortunately, our shop does not accept any special orders. We only sell the styles and sizes shown on our web site.

Sincerely, Adam, Alden of Carmel

That's actually understandable. This isn't the fault of AoC, but the fault of Alden. Alden has a terrible reputation for special orders; on top of that, any sort of special makeup shoe (all AoC Fan shoes are this) must be ordered in quantities. My problem is that they order such skimpy quantities that they don't even have a 13D in the order.
 

jcusey

Senior Moderator<br>Technical Support
Teacher said:
You HAVE to be kidding! Yeah, I know these are very limited-run shoes, but no 13D? Ridiculous. Too bad, too, because they're gorgeous (and whiskey shell is my favorite). Unfortunately, despite my being a pretty normal 9D, they're out of my price range.:(

In fairness to Alden of Carmel, it's not exactly a huge operation. Stocking shoes in anything other than the gut sizes is difficult for a one-man operation, and trying to do individual special orders with Alden is like pulling teeth. I don't know why Adam wouldn't piggy-back an unusual size order along with his regular orders of the same shoe (with a deposit, perhaps), but I'm sure it's not an arbitrary decision.
 

NoVaguy

Super Member
Looks like Florsheim might be back to (working with/ordering in) shell cordovan.



Auction shows a wine colored long wingtip (kenmoor?)

Anybody know if this is true?
 

Gurdon

Moderator
Siggy,
Thanks for the suggestion. I have a pair of the spectator version of the Malvern in chestnut and twill; very nice, and I have the good fortune to have found my right EG size.

But for a pair of black really dressy wingtips, I would like something light and elegant. I don't yet have the shoe construction vocabulary to describe precisely the qualities that come to mind, but a beveled arch and closely trimmed sole are in the mix.

I'll look into Martigani. Am generally unfamiliar with Italien shoes.

Regards,
Gurdon
 

darck

New Member
I see quite a lot of older (50+) non-stylish gentlemen wearing black full brogues with thick soles, often with plasticky shiny corrected grain leather, together with an oversized jacket and a too short tied tie. Hence I would never wear such shoes myself :)

However, I think a sleek brown full brogue with leather soles looks very stylish, both on older and younger gentlemen! For us younger guys I like them together with jeans too. I regularly wear those dark brown Loake Exeter (on the right) with both suits and jeans (and I'm 27):
https://imageshack.us
 

eagle2250

Connoisseur/Curmudgeon Emeritus - Moderator
Teacher said:
That's actually understandable. This isn't the fault of AoC, but the fault of Alden. Alden has a terrible reputation for special orders; on top of that, any sort of special makeup shoe (all AoC Fan shoes are this) must be ordered in quantities. My problem is that they order such skimpy quantities that they don't even have a 13D in the order.

And herein lies a primary difference in the customer focus of Alden vs AE...Alden pretty much tells us take it the way they offer it and AE readily accomodates customer desires in special orders and for limited orders in the less common sizes. Just one of several reasons why my closet holds 26 pair of AEs and only three pair of Aldens.
 

Harrydog

Senior Member
5thAve said:
I've been meaning to purchase a pair of black dress shoes and couldn't decide if it should be a wingtip. Today on the subway I saw two elderly gentlemen who were impeccably dressed. One was wearing a black captoe, the other a black wingtip. The extra "activity" of the wingtip drew my eyes down to them and gave his overall outfit a balanced looked. I decided there that I'd get wingtipped shoes.

So with that I went into Barney's today to try on some shoes when I suddenly realized wingtips looked hideous on me. I couldn't put my finger on it but something just didn't look right. Is it because I'm 24? I don't know but I've never had such a quick turnaround of opinion

Your thoughts gentlemen.

How about this compromise from the C&J Handgrade line?



The Tavistock, classic but modern at the same time, from Robert Old
 

Trying

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
I'm not a fan of wingtips, especially the Long Wingtip with the broguing that runs all around the shoe. In fact, I find that Alden of Carmel pictured above as downright gaudy.

This Tavistock by C&J, however, I would buy in a heartbeat if it fit. To me, it is a classy and elegant shoe.
 

Harrydog

Senior Member
Trying said:
I'm not a fan of wingtips, especially the Long Wingtip with the broguing that runs all around the shoe. In fact, I find that Alden of Carmel pictured above as downright gaudy.

This Tavistock by C&J, however, I would buy in a heartbeat if it fit. To me, it is a classy and elegant shoe.

It is on the 337 last and is a rather spacious fit. I'd order a full UK size below your US size.

If you know how the 337 last fits you, you are all set.
 

Trying

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
Harrydog said:
It is on the 337 last and is a rather spacious fit. I'd order a full UK size below your US size.

If you know how the 337 last fits you, you are all set.

The 337 fits me in the Savile, but it isn't a bal...that's the big question with my high instep. I also see that the Tavistock isn't listed at the C&J website. Do you know if it is still available?
 

Harrydog

Senior Member
Trying said:
The 337 fits me in the Savile, but it isn't a bal...that's the big question with my high instep. I also see that the Tavistock isn't listed at the C&J website. Do you know if it is still available?

It is available through the Robert Old link I posted....good price, free shipping.

I wear the Weymouth in addition to the Tavistock and the instep is fine for me.
 

Trying

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
Harrydog said:
It is available through the Robert Old link I posted....good price, free shipping.

I wear the Weymouth in addition to the Tavistock and the instep is fine for me.

Thanks...you may have just cost me $486.
 

medwards

Honored Professor | Moderator, All Forums
While I too have never been terribly comfortable with black full brogues, the London tan versions on the far right of this picture were made for me by the folks who are now Cleverley over two decades ago -- and they have been a mainstay of my wardrobe ever since. Of course, I am of that age where the term "older gentleman" is one of the more pleasant of descriptions. ;)

 

aportnoy

Senior Member
Trying said:
Thanks...you may have just cost me $486.

Go for it! I recently received the dark brown Tavistocks from Robert Old and they are great. In short order I'll be able to share comparisons with the Tavistock and the Edward Green Beaulieu in dark oak on the 606 last.
 
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