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  1. Rich

    THE Wedding

    It's just that rumour had it (last week) that they were going to Jordan...
  2. Rich

    THE Wedding

    And the aftermath? How will they fare against the British media? Kate is a star and will be constantly in the limelight, though she seems much steelier than poor Diana. The pressure on the in-laws is going to be enormous, like winning millions on the national lottery. I wonder whether the...
  3. Rich

    THE Wedding

    I bet Mr Middleton was wearing the right shoes...
  4. Rich

    THE Wedding

    To return to sartorial considerations, it's interesting to compare the aristocracy and middle classes here. The former were not especially well-dressed (not counting uniforms, of course) and the women were not very impressive. But the middle classes looked pretty good, the Middleton family...
  5. Rich

    THE Wedding

    About the alleged economic benefits accruing from the royal wedding, I heard an economist claim recently that they would in fact be negligible in the face of the UK's current problems. Also, the whole country had a day off work: I wonder how much that cost the economy? Lots of very nicely...
  6. Rich

    How prominent can stripes be on a navy business suit?

    Loud stripes are aggressive, so they can be appropriate in certain business situations, and in certain social situations. Depends on what business you're doing, or who you want to impress. Same with striped shirts.
  7. Rich

    Shell Cordovan Care: Saphir Products

    I find the creme easier to apply than the wax, and I prefer the shine you get with the creme, but the wax is easier to brush into the welts and stitching. The two "rénovateurs" mentioned give much the same results, I find. All in all, the Saphir products are by far the best, there's no doubt...
  8. Rich

    Rant: button down collar with tie - WTF?!?

    Self-confidently, trustworthily provincial, yes, a bit. And something to do with the way Americans can look relaxed even when they mean business. Europeans can’t do that. The all-American Oxford cloth BD with the box pleat in the back, wide placket and single button cuffs is mostly holiday...
  9. Rich

    Rant: button down collar with tie - WTF?!?

    As a European, I look upon BD collars as typically American. I would say that you have to be American to wear them unselfconsciously, and I never wear them for that reason. The same goes for many other Americana, such as tassel loafers. Americans look natural and comfortable in them, Europeans...
  10. Rich

    Fused or Non Fused collar

    I speak as a layman, not as a shirtmaker, so this may be oversimplified, but in my experience a shirt collar usually has three layers, the outside, the inside and a piece of intermediate stiffening material at the front, inside the pointed parts that show. In a completely non-fused collar all...
  11. Rich

    Longwings with rubber soles?

    They are the same shoes in fact. I don't rate them very highly: the leather is not of high quality, but they are inexpensive compared with the real thing, i.e. an Alden cordovan longwing with a commando sole - which would be completely and utterly weatherproof, and a better investment.
  12. Rich

    Fused or Non Fused collar

    Non-fused always looks best, though fusing is now much better than it used to be, and can be perfectly acceptable. Bubbling need not happen with modern fusing. Collars are very often partly fused, anyway.
  13. Rich

    What is pick stitching?

    What do you mean by faux working cuffs? Cuffs that don't work (i.e. faux buttonholes) or working cuffs with machine-stitched button holes? If the latter, do you rule out machine-stitched buttonholes in general? In my experience, hand-stitched button holes, which are beautiful when done properly...
  14. Rich

    French cuffs

    This is right. They drop lower, so they show more. I like the cufflink to be just visible, which means about 1 inch of cuff, against about half an inch for a button cuff, for the same sleeve length.
  15. Rich

    Old shirts - what to do?

    If the shirt was a very good one to start with it will still look good frayed, so long as it's well ironed (think well-polished old shoes) - when the seams start going, downgrade it to gardening.
  16. Rich

    Suit Buttons

    You should insist on having real horn buttons, but your tailor will probably be able to get these much more easily than you can (trade wholesale). I've never found any at the usual retail outlets. Alteration tailors sometimes have old collections. Corozo buttons can look good, especially on a...
  17. Rich

    OTC socks that don't catch the back of the trouser's leg

    Right, my problem too - having big calves means short socks won’t stay up so OTCs are mandatory, but then you need wider trousers to stop cling! What about heavier cuffs, say with an extra fold of cloth on the inside to weight them? I’d be interested to know if anyone has tried that. I 've...
  18. Rich

    shoe pairing questions

    The Macneils with a gray birdseye suit maybe?
  19. Rich

    OTC socks that don't catch the back of the trouser's leg

    I often have this problem, regardless of whether the socks are all wool, wool plus nylon, cotton, thick or thin. Obviously static electricity. It seems to depend on ambient conditions, though it's very unpredictable, and also how new the trousers are. The older they are the less they seem to...
  20. Rich

    Some Random T.M.Lewin observations and remarks

    I've had no problems with their Luxury Twill or herringbone shirts - maybe it's because I launder them myself. The heavy twill is not very businesslike, admittedly, though the raised white twill looks quite formal. I find all Lewin's stuff excellent value for money - perfect for anyone on a...