son of brummell

Super Member
1,147
United States
New York
New York
Adrian Jules

Wow. That's quite a statement. I've heard that AJ has tons of handwork; I guess it may even exceed that of Martin's GF.

Adrian Jules does not have "tons of handwork." Neither does Greenfield.

Of the factory made suits readily available at retailers and clothiers around the country, Oxxford has the most hand sewing. Some of the bespoke tailors have more handwork.

I don't think that handwork is the preeminent factor in judging a garment. I feel that the overall look and fit are the most important. Fit and look are determined at the fitting/ordering stage as well as the cutting stage.

My clothier friend chose Jules for his MTM based on its cutting and attention to detail. A bespoke tailor told me that he uses Jules on his MTM since Jules follows his cutting instructions to a "T."

Don't get me wrong. Both Adrian Jules and Greenfield make superb products. I'm wearing a Greenfield right now.

Of the Adrian Jules suits that I have inspected as well as Greenfields that I have had (Flusser, Brooks, Peter Elliot, Greenfield, etc.), I give an edge to Greenfield.

Perhaps I'll be able to comment on the AJ suit soon.

You won't go wrong with either.

Good luck.
 

Audi S5 TC

Advanced Member
2,184
The Lofts Apartments
United States
New York
Farmingdale
Of the factory made suits readily available at retailers and clothiers around the country, Oxxford has the most hand sewing. Some of the bespoke tailors have more handwork.
All of those bespoke tailors (which is about 15% of bespoke tailors-among them, all three branches of Caraceni and both branches of Rubinacci) that have more handwork (all by a small or very small amount) than Oxxford are more to significantly more expensive than Oxxford.

Most (but far from all-about 70% to 85%, among them, Anderson & Sheppard and H. Huntsman) of the bespoke tailors that have less (or much less) handwork than Oxxford (which is about 85% of bespoke tailors) are also more to significantly more expensive than Oxxford.

FWIW, there are no bespoke tailors have the same handwork as Oxxford. All bespoke tailors have either less handwork or more handwork than Oxxford.
 

gr8w8er

New Member
66
United States
NY
Lockport
Adrian Jules does not have "tons of handwork."
For perspective, allow me to quote the owners - "we are the only American suitmaker that still does most of the tailoring - shaping, molding, finishing, basting, and buttonholes - by hand."

The lapels and color are done by hand. I offer this just to clarify, in case someone searches Adrian Jules and comes upon this thread before visiting the shop. As in fact, I did.

Thanks to those posters that commended the tailor so highly. I will hopefully be reporting back with some pictures at a future date. I certainly hope all that handiwork doesn't reflect poor measurements and I doubt it will.
 

gr8w8er

New Member
66
United States
NY
Lockport
well, I'm assuming Peter himself will be taking the measurements since he's the person talking to me.
 

MTM_Master?

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
390
United States
Wisconsin
Milwaukee
All, a whole 10 years later (what an amazing statement), I am now in the market for a new MTM suit. I would like to limit myself to a max budget of $3,000 and would prefer to be closer to $2k.

Anyways, I am replying to this thread as, once again, Adrian Jules is on my short list, along with Samuelsohn. I have not had direct experience with either brand in years -many of my previously commissioned pieces are no longer around (not to mention my body shape has evolved in the post-college, house, wife, career, and kid era).

Let me ask again - anyone out there with Adrian Jules MTM experience, particularly as of late? Regarding Samuelsohn, there are many, many posts praising the value, however I'd be curious for a current assessment.

Of course, I am also open to other brands and recommendations. I would like to know I have purchased a well-made, full-canvas garment. I very much enjoy details i.e. pick stitching, surgeon's cuffs, etc., however if these had to be sacrificed in the name of fit, quality, and ultimately durability, then so be it...
 

Charles Dana

Honors Member
3,116
United States
California
San Francisco
MTM Master: Could you please bring us up to date? (There's a huge gap in the narrative.) Did you actually order a suit from Adrian Jules? If so, were you happy with it?

Anyway, Samuelsohn still has an excellent reputation on this forum.
 

FiscalDean

Super Member
1,615
United States
WI
Elcho
You may want to consider Richard Bennett Custom Tailors in
Chicago. They're business model is significantly different than the Richard Bennett shop in Milwaukee. While the Milwaukee business is a MTM shop, the Chicago business is a true bespoke tailor. All work is done on premise. I'm not sure how the pricing will fit in your budget but if you catch a sale you should be in the right neighborhood. My last suit was tailored in the fall of 2016. I chose an in-stock fabric that was originally $3250 but on sale for $2850. The fabric is a Loro Piana Tasmanian Super 150's. Hop on the Hiawatha and make the trip to Chicago.
 
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