JohnnySuits

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
145
Looking to build a collection of nice, high end ties, and would love some options here. I hear Kiton is up there. Any other brands to build around? I prefer a nice, thick, heavy tie.
 

UPennHaberdasher

New Member
47
I have yet to find nicer ties than Carlo Franco's seven folds. I haven't tried too many seven folds, but they are beautiful and tie wonderfully.
 

Roger

Super Member
1,451
Canada
British Columbia
Vancouver
Here are my nominations for (a) Tier 1 ties (great ties): Kiton, Borrelli, Attolini, Isaia, Bulgari, Charvet, Marinella, Hermes, Carlo Franco, Sam Hober. Depending on choice of construction, the Kiton, Borrelli, Attolini, Isaia, Bulgari, Carlo Franco, and Sam Hober ties (particularly the lined sevenfolds) are hefty and tie a big knot. I've seen very, very few sevenfold Marinellas and none from Charvet and Hermes. These latter are of lighter construction, more delicate, but made of gorgeous silk and are of the highest quality. Two other makers, Barba and Barbera make ties that are very likely in this class, but I haven't seen them.

One step down, my nominations for (b) Tier 2 ties (very good ties): Brioni, Stefano Ricci, Nicky of Milan, Drake (their 50-oz. model is hefty), Holliday & Brown, Turnbull & Asser, Massimo Bizzocchi, Breuer, Robert Talbott (the sevenfolds and Best of Class lines), Four in Hand, Zegna (but not the Villa Bolgheri line), Canali. Faberge and Ferragamo may be in this class, I'm not sure.

Then dropping to (c) Tier 3 ties (decent to good ties, some at very reasonable prices): Altea, Pucci, Dolce & Gabbana (I have one which is probably more properly of Tier 2 quality), Zegna Villa Bolgheri line, Versace and Armani (both cheap but expensive, if you know what I mean), Hugo Boss, Faconnable, a trio of British ties: Duchamp, Ted Baker, and Paul Smith (all somewhat gaudy), Ralph Lauren Purple Label (purportedly made by Altea), Robert Talbott lower lines like the Chelsea line, Brooks Brothers, Jhane Barnes.

After that, there are ties branded by Hickey-Freeman, RL Polo, Hart, Schaffer & Marx, Ike Behar, Dormeuil, Yves St. Laurent, Christian Dior (the latter two undoubtedly on license), and numerous house brands for retailers like Nordstrom, Harry Rosen, Holt Renfrew (the last two in Canada)--really too many to mention. I have very little acquaintance with any of these, except for the Rosen, Holt-Renfrew, and Dormeuil but wouldn't see these as generally really good ties, although you may find some exceptions.

Just my opinions on the subject. Others will rank-order these brands differently, I'm sure. And I've omitted many brands--either because I forgot them or have no experience with them--that others can comment on. :icon_smile:

Edit: Forgot about Brooks Brothers--nice (particularly their repps) and reasonably-priced. Put in Tier 3, but maybe really 2.5.
 
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Brian13

Super Member
1,696
where would you place the cashmere/silk ties of pal zileri gruppo that i got from EL72?
they to my untrained eye and touch are swell.
what level would you place them?
 

JohnnySuits

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
145
Are there any good sites online that sell all or a variety of these high end tie brands, preferably at a discount?
 

tmack3

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
351
Drakes is one of my favorites and the price is reasonable. They have great patterns. Kiton ties are quality, but i think are absurdly overpriced. I also find them boring. Isaia ties are priced less obnoxiously than Kiton and have more interersting patterns. I rarely purchase any of these ties at full retail because the vast majority of what you see today can be had at substantial discounts in a few months when places like barneys/saks/n-m have their end of the season sales.

Sam Hober/Mulberrywood makes a great tie and the process of selecting your own pattern and working with David Hober is fun. The quality of his silks is second to none and the pricing is very fair. He has a nice selection of patterns (although not as interesting as drakes). I have two Carlo Franco ties and they are great, but prefer Hober's.

The rest of the ties Roger listed are all quality brands. Therefore, your choice will be based on your preference for pattern, width and length. It's difficult to say that the style of a Zegna tie to is superior/inferior to that of Drakes because the styles tend to be different. Same with Armani vs Paul Smith.
 

[email protected]

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
360
throw in another plug for Chuck and his Carlo Francos (if you can find him - seems to have vanished).

I love my Nicky's, which from time to time can be had at great prices from Lance
 

smr

Super Member
1,532
United States
Indiana
Warsaw
Here are my nominations for (a) Tier 1 ties (great ties): Kiton, Borrelli, Attolini, Isaia, Bulgari, Charvet, Marinella, Hermes, Carlo Franco, Sam Hober. Depending on choice of construction, the Kiton, Borrelli, Attolini, Isaia, Bulgari, Carlo Franco, and Sam Hober ties (particularly the lined sevenfolds) are hefty and tie a big knot. I've seen very, very few sevenfold Marinellas and none from Charvet and Hermes. These latter are of lighter construction, more delicate, but made of gorgeous silk and of the highest quality. Two other makers, Barba and Barbera make ties that are very likely in this class, but I haven't seen them.

One step down, my nominations for (b) Tier 2 ties (very good ties): Brioni, Stefano Ricci, Nicky of Milan, Drake (their 50-oz. model is hefty), Holliday & Brown, Turnbull & Asser, Massimo Bizzocchi, Breuer, Robert Talbott (the sevenfolds and Best of Class lines), Four in Hand, Zegna (but not the Villa Bolgheri line), Canali. Faberge and Ferragamo may be in this class, I'm not sure.

Then dropping to (c) Tier 3 ties (decent to good ties): Altea, Pucci, Dolce & Gabbana (I have one which is probably more properly of Tier 2 quality), Zegna Villa Bolgheri line, Versace and Armani (both cheap but expensive, if you know what I mean), Hugo Boss, Faconnable, a series of British ties: Duchamp, Ted Baker, and Paul Smith (all somewhat gaudy), Ralph Lauren Purple Label (purportedly made by Altea), Robert Talbott lower lines like the Chelsea line.

After that, there are ties branded by Hickey-Freeman, RL Polo, Hart, Shaffer & Marx, Ike Behar, Dormeuil, Yves St. Laurent, Christian Dior (the latter two undoubtedly on license), and numerous house brands for retailers like Nordstrom, Harry Rosen, Holt Renfrew (the last two in Canada)--too many to mention. I have very little acquaintance with any of these, except for the Rosen, Holt-Renfrew, and Dormeuil but wouldn't see these as generally good ties, although you may find some exceptions.

Just my opinions on the subject. Others will rank-order these brands differently, I'm sure. :icon_smile:
Great list, Roger! As you suggested, I might move a few between categories, (for example, I love Turnbull and Asser ties, and Stefano Ricci and Massimo Bizzocchi make some amazing ties, and for me, I think I'd bump up RLPL, Altea, and perhaps Facconable--wouldn't surpise me if Altea made for RLPL), but nice job!

I also like many of the Luciano Barbera ties I've had for a few years, house brand Bergdoff Goodman Italian-made ties, and $69 Brooks Brothers ties (with the self-fabric keeper--good value, too, if you like very conservative ties) are very good (nice heft). I'd probably put these in the "very good" category.
 

Vintage Gent

New Member
45
United States
Texas
Galveston
Roger's list is wonderfully comprehensive, and an excellent place to start. A few observations, based only on my experience.

(1) Borrelli ties are overrated. I have two, and the others I've seen only confirm my observation.

(2) The Ike Behar ties I've seen recently have impressed me; they're at least the equal of the Altea ties I own, if not a little nicer. On the four tier list, I'd probably bump them up a notch.

(3) Sam Hober makes a heck of a tie, at an outstanding price.
 
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