Sir Walter

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That was truely outstanding.

Please do more. Can you elaberate on the differences between specific brands? What are the differences between Hickey Freeman and Canali, or Canali and Ermenegildo Zegna? Are there any fully canvassed suits which are generally made to a higher standard than the others. Most on this forum will say Oxxford is the best made, but is that accurate or are all the fully canvased suits the same with the difference being in the styling, fit and fabric?

Thanks again.
 

jefferyd

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Best is a relative thing. Put a roman tailor and a neapolitan tailor in a room and ask them what the best shoulder is. Then get behind something. I've done it and it's quite funny.
But seriously, styling aside, what would you rather wear- a garment made to a higher standard that does not fit you well, or a lesser-made garment that fits perfectly?

There have also been many great technological advances (as the machine above illustrates) and in certain cases it is no longer true that doing certain operations is better. In the days of heavy woolens which would camouflage uneven hand stitching this may have been true, but there are certain operations which would look terrible if done by hand on a super 150 or 200 cloth. There exists a machine which can fell an undercollar in such a manner as to be virtually indistinguishable from a hand-felled collar- the stitch is the same, it looks the same, the method is the same, so which is better?

The full-canvas jacket pictured above is something I cut for myself, and I plan to do most things by hand. Along the way I can illustrate some of the differences and how to spot them, plus foster a debate about which method is better.

To go back to your question about specific makers, being in the trade myself I could be accused of being partial so I would rather not comment about one maker or another.
 

misterdonuts

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Many thanks for this, jeffreyd. I must admit that I am as perplexed as a tailor is with respect to half canvas: what is the point? It just seems to me like a sartorial equivalent of a lap dance.
 

lawgman

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Many thanks for this, jeffreyd. I must admit that I am as perplexed as a tailor is with respect to half canvas: what is the point? It just seems to me like a sartorial equivalent of a lap dance.
I purchased a suit from a local tailor that is mostly canvas but is fused below the 2nd button on a 3 button jacket. This local tailor actually outsources the work to another local tailor. Its my understanding that for each suit this tailor sells, he saves $100 per suit by including the fusing. If he receives an order for 6 suits a week, that is a savings of $600 a week. If this info is accurate the savings to this small business man is a pretty compelling reason to do ½ canvas over full canvas. I presume if he just raised his prices by $100 and did full canvas, he would miss his pricepoints and lose some customers.
 

misterdonuts

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I purchased a suit from a local tailor that is mostly canvas but is fused below the 2nd button on a 3 button jacket. This local tailor actually outsources the work to another local tailor. Its my understanding that for each suit this tailor sells, he saves $100 per suit by including the fusing. If he receives an order for 6 suits a week, that is a savings of $600 a week. If this info is accurate the savings to this small business man is a pretty compelling reason to do ½ canvas over full canvas. I presume if he just raised his prices by $100 and did full canvas, he would miss his pricepoints and lose some customers.
I understand the cost implications relative to "full canvas." What I do not understand is the merit of "half canvas" over "padded lapel" or "fused"...
 

smr

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Thanks so much for a very informative post, jefferyd! The follow-up comments are also helping to make it a great thread.
 
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