Chintzy jacket cuff

Discussion in 'Andy's Fashion Forum' started by Kyle76, May 20, 2019.

  1. Kyle76

    Kyle76 Active Member with Corp. Privileges

    415
    United States
    NC
    Fayetteville
    I recently received a suit order from one of the MTM houses recommended by several here. In addition to some fit issues, which I hope will be resolved, I was a little disappointed with the surgeon’s cuff construction. Normally, I would expect at least twice the overlap on a cuff like this. The short overlap just doesn’t look right to me. 6DE18A97-064D-4356-8837-6E65F6D11A17.jpeg
     
  2. Searching_Best_Fit

    Searching_Best_Fit Senior Member

    950
    Canada
    Ontario
    Mississauga
    I may be wrong here but it seems that the distance from the first button edge to the cuff is about 20mm, or 1 1/2 button size (22 mm+). Is this correct?

    I have a theory that typical OTR jacket places the buttons that is about 1 1/4" (30mm+) for the said distance. The theory is that manufacturers place the buttons with that distance so that customer can shorten the sleeve to a certain degree without moving the buttons too much. However, it seems that whenever the sleeve is shorten, the tailor will move the button *no matter* what and keep that 1 1/4" distance from cuff hem. I wonder if that gives you the idea that the buttons need to be placed further away from hem.
     
    cosmotoast likes this.
  3. WA

    WA Honors Member

    United States
    WA
    Bellingham
    You can't change cut buttonholes.
    The distance from the bottom edge varies from tailor to tailor depending upon their lessons. For most, probably 1 1/4 inch to 1 1/2 inches. Once the holes are cut, and the customer ask for a change, it can different. Custom (bespoke) the buttonholes are not done until the fitting is finished. If the customer changes his mind after that.... Clothes also get pasted along, so again, the measurements can vary.
    Buttonholes didn't even show up on MTM and RTW until about twenty years ago. It had been strictly only on bespoke (custom). And today, who uses them, anyway?

    Bespoke and Custom is terminology, which has the same meaning, but, from two different countries, the British and American. Asking for custom in Britain is different than in America. Anymore, in both countries, these words are sort of ,sadly, meaningless.
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2019
  4. Hebrew Barrister

    Hebrew Barrister Senior Member

    684
    United States
    texas
    yourmomtown
    On RTW, I hate surgeons cuffs. They make it difficult to adjust sleeve length. Suitsupply needs to knock it off with that.
     
    Matt S likes this.
  5. Kyle76

    Kyle76 Active Member with Corp. Privileges

    415
    United States
    NC
    Fayetteville
    I’m not talking about the distance from the buttons to the edge of the cuff, I’m referring to the amount of fabric that wraps underneath the buttonholes. There’s not suit fabric underneath the buttonholes. The buttons are sewn on the very edge of the fabric. If the holes were to gap open, you’d be seeing the sleeve lining, not suit fabric, through the gap. I’ve never seen surgeon’s cuffs where there was not suit fabric fully wrapped underneath the buttonholes.
     
    cosmotoast likes this.
  6. Woofa

    Woofa Super Member

    United States
    Texas
    Fort Worth
    I had a problem understanding the issue at first and unfortunately the pic doesn't show it well. If I understand you correctly then you feel the sleeve itself could be enlarged and the buttons then moved over? Not the buttonholes. I would imagine this would affect from the elbow down. Some better pics might help us understand exactly what you mean.
     
  7. Kyle76

    Kyle76 Active Member with Corp. Privileges

    415
    United States
    NC
    Fayetteville
    I’m referring to the flap of fabric that is folded below the buttonholes. Normally, that folded piece is considerably longer to at least extend beyond the width of the buttonholes themselves, as indicated by the length of the yellow line.

    B88B3FC5-DE08-4B14-9F0C-2488326D3DFF.jpeg
     
  8. JBierly

    JBierly Advanced Member

    United States
    Tennessee
    Chattanooga
    I agree it is a bit thin - can you measure it?
     
  9. Kyle76

    Kyle76 Active Member with Corp. Privileges

    415
    United States
    NC
    Fayetteville
    I can't, as I have sent it back for some alteration, but I'd say the part in question is 1/2-5/8ths inch, and as you can probably tell, the buttons are sewn right on the edge of it. Not a huge deal, just contrary to what I am used to and would expect. Not sure why they do it this way.
     

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