1,913
United States
Pennsylvania
Sunbury
I've just got a Coppley MTM suit that I ordered a bit over a month ago. I thought I'd post my observations in case they're helpful to anyone considering MTM in general and from Coppley in particular.

The basic specs are these:

Graham model SB2B with peak lapels, side vents, hacking and ticket pockets, pic stitching (machine done), functional cuff buttons, light gray lining.

Jameel model trousers with double reverse pleats and jetted pockets. No belt loops.

6B DB Waistcoat. Unfortunately, lapels were not an available option.

Fabric is 8.5 oz. Scabal worsted (no supers no.) in light gray with white chalkstripes. They are spaced about .5 inches apart and are themselves on the wider side, about three white threads wide, if that makes any sense. They are prominent in size but not in color.

As an aside, it's interesting that some of these features (DB vests and light gray suits) have since been the subject of considerable conversation on the forum!

Back to the suit. I'll do pros and cons.

Pros.
1. The fabric. I upped the price over base Coppley MTM considerably by going with the Scabal fabric. It, however, is just what I've been looking for for quite a long time (roughly since the first time I saw the Brosnan Thomas Crowne). The stripes stand out pleasingly but they don't "glow" at all. The fabric has a fairly matte appearance which tones down what might otherwise be a somewhat garish design.

2. The overall design. I'm very pleased with the width of the lapels. If one follows a stripe up from the outer edge of the hanky pocket, the peak of the lapel hits just short of two stripes (approx. 1 inch) further out. It sets up the V very nicely. This is my first DB waiscoat and I'm quite pleased. I do however wish that lapels would have been available.

3. Fit. Coppley have four shoulder styles: roped, sartorial (a built up sort of affair with a squarish silhouette), an unpadded natural, and a lightly padded natural. After careful consideration, I opted for the last of these and it was the right choice. I tried on the sartorial sort at the shop and thought it just a tad too unnatural for my taste. The jacket is made on their 42 regular pattern. Shoulders fit precisely and, joy of joys, the waist had be taken in a bit to give more definition. I guess the Bowflex work is paying off. The trousers are quite comfortable in rise.

4. Service at my retailer, J. Kleinbauer, in Selinsgrove, PA. They took lots of time with me both at order time and during two fittings after delivery. They also were of great assistance with some issues with Coppley (see below). Standard disclaimers apply, no affiliation with J. Kleinbauer other than happy customer.

Cons.

1. Ticket pocket placement. I would have expected the leading edge of the ticket pocket and the regular pocket to align vertically. The ticket pocket in this case is more centered over the regular pocket. Not sure if this is right, wrong or indifferent, but I would have assumed it would be otherwise.

2. Coppley customer service. In some respects, this company is not quite on the ball. I specified a second pair of trousers with the order as the fabric is lightweight and at the price, I want the thing to go some distance. Coppley called to inform my retailer that there was not enough fabric, but they had already started building the jacket. Surely, they would have known ahead of time whether they could meet my needs. It seems as though they liked the notion of getting rid of the tail end of a bolt of pricier lightweight fabric as winter approaches. In the end, they offered me the choice of another fabric or taking the suit without the extra trousers. As I really liked the fabric, I opted for the latter, but it left a bit of a sour taste in my mouth about the company. When the suit came in, Coppley neglected to install the functional buttonholes. Sending it back for this would mean another two weeks of delay putting the suit in service. My retailer arranged to send it back when the weather turns cold so that I can wear it while it's warmer.

3. Some fusing. Coppley does a full floating canvass chest piece as it turns out. While I would have preferred actual, full canvassing, the suit is still very comfortable and doesn't feel stiff. The coat overall seems well put together.

Overall, I am satisfied with the product, though Coppley might not be my first choice MTM maker again. My shop also does H. Freeman & Son and I probably would have went with them instead if they had a fabric that suited my needs. I have a Freeman on order and it should take about a month. If it's useful, I'll let the forum know how it turns out.
 

PJC in NoVa

Connoisseur
5,875
Thanks for this informative review.

On the ticket-pocket issue, I think Coppley definitely goofed. A ticket pocket, whether in the straight or slanted pocket arrangement, should be at least aligned at its forward edge with the forward edge of the larger pocket below it, and some authorities (AKA manton) actually feel that placing the pocket's leading edge a bit forward (i.e., closer to the center line of the body) of the lower pocket looks a bit better.

Frankly, I've never seen a ticket pocket centered over the pocket below. I find that really odd.

The dwindling fabric/no extra trouser goof is really annoying. They should have offered you a small %age off the regular price for that one, as there's really no excuse for them not to have given you a heads-up about the situation BEFORE they started making the suit.

BTW, would you mind saying how much this set you back, and how much of a premium you paid over regular price b/c you chose the Scabal fabric?
 
1,913
United States
Pennsylvania
Sunbury
PJC,

Yeah, I think the ticket pocket is a goof, too. My guess is somebody just didn't know how to do it quite right on a hacking setup. On this suit, I'm willing to just pass it off as an eccentricity. In the future, though, I will have no mercy if I order from Coppley and draw this to their attention.

The % accomodation idea struck me as well. However, I didn't want to put my retailer, who served me well, in the middle of some dispute with the company about who swallows it. There was no hint that this would be the case, but I didn't want it to become an issue.

The suit was just under $1,700.00. The waistcoat drove the price up a bit over the premium for the fabric. The same suit in standard range fabrics would probably have been around $1,000.00.

Cantabragian,

I'll consult Mr. Golem's sticky on the technical aspects. If I can arrange a photo without the embarassment of having to get my wife to snap one to show "the guys on the forum," I'll post.
 
Last edited:

PJC in NoVa

Connoisseur
5,875
The suit was just under $1,700.00. The waistcoat drove the price up a bit over the premium for the fabric. The same suit in standard range fabrics would probably have been around $1,000.00.
So if I'm following you correctly, the suit in a standard fabric and w/out the vest would have been under a grand? (I figure the vest must cost, what, $250 to $300 extra?)

That's competitive w/ what LS or Mr. Ned would charge--or at least this is my impression based on what I've read elsewhere on AAAC.
 

paper clip

Advanced Member
2,500
United States
Massachusetts
Boston
If I can arrange a photo without the embarassment of having to get my wife to snap one to show "the guys on the forum," I'll post.
Ha ha! I agree with this! A bit too silly to ask my mate, IMO. I do the best I can with a self-timer if I have anything post-worthy! In fact if I am forum-reading on my laptop while we are watching TV together on the couch (some HG show she likes), I refrain from opening threads that I know to have pics so I can avoid the questions sure to follow (Do you have any pics on the forum?!?!?!)

Thank you for the informative review.
 

johnnyblazini

Super Member
1,134
You should have asked about the half canvassing, if you weren't sure. We could have told you that...

Although I like the number of options on the shoulders and the Scabal possibility, Coppley seems like a poor choice for MTM. (Based on your experience at least)

I wonder if the cloth problem comes from Scabal's side or Coppley..? Do you guys think they buy fabrics or just work on orders..?
 

lawgman

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
305
Canada
Ontario
Toronto
While all my ticket pockets line up with the lower pocket, this week on TV I saw the unusual ticket pocket location that you describe. I can't recall what show it was (possibly from the show Las Vegas, or on Bob Saget or even possibly on Emmitt Smith) but I definately saw it because it struck me as unusual.
 

Alan David

New Member
27
Coppley review

Mr. Questionable gentleman-excellent quote, allow me to weigh in.

I have my own custom clients and my #1 resource is Coppley, so if I seem a bit biased you know why. Coppley is not a traditional CMT house. They sell retailers RTW as well as made to measure garments.

On the MTM side they have 2 programs; accumeasura and made to measure. Accumeasure simply takes their existing pattern and modifies the basic measurements like sleeve length and waist size.

Their MTM program allows for a lot more leeway including narrower lapels, barrell chest cuts, lowering waistbands, etc. While not true bespoke by a long shot, they fill a great middle of the road niche.

While you can use them for CMT, they have a box of about 600 fabrics which are beautiful. They include Zegna (a lot), Loro Piana and Scabal as well as the Reda's and Barberis' of the world.

Here are some other things you and forum members should know. Their opening ranges are all fused while their higher ranges are half canvas. Spend the extra for the higher ranges, it is well worth it.

I have found Coppley to be a very efficient organized company. Keep in mind that they will ship out a garment on the accumeasure program in 7 working days and on the MTM program in 12 working days. This is an incredible benefit.

They do mess up occasionally, as with your working buttomhole problem but they are usaully pretty responsive in fixing the problem. In regards to the cloth being out of stock, this almost never happens to them. They have a 24 hour fabric availibility list that you can log onto anytime. In addition, the retailer has the ability while making the sale or just after making the sale to reserve the fabric over the phone, thus verifying that the fabric is available. Once in a blue moon thier computers will show more yardage than actually on hand, but it is extremely rare.

Their best looking models are the Bocelli which is a square shoulder look or the Minelli which is basic natural shoulder. They also have a Kane model which is kind of in between but it has a lower button stance which many clients still prefer.

I rank Coppley higher than John Daniels and higher than H.Freeman. They are on par with Mr. Ned and not far from Martin Greenfield.

Hope this was helpful.
 
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