miamimike

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
477
I was curious to know when you get your suit jacket sleeve shorten do you have your tailor put new fake button hole stitching next to your buttons, have him do real button holes, or just leave it plain (4 buttons but no fake button hole stitching)?


Also whats your take on just having buttons on the sleeves and no stitching next to them? I would think it would not matter cause why put fake button holes next to them to begin with. That is if real holes are not an option. Is that a sign of a low quality suit? Or just personal taste?

If need to know, the suits are Canali and Corneliani.
 
Last edited:

ToryBoy

Advanced Member
2,694
A good tailor would shorten the sleeve but the buttons would stay in the same positions; hence, new stitching in the button area will not be needed.

If you have cheapy plastic buttons, a good chance to get horn or mother-of-pearl buttons put in. Something I did not think of doing when two blazers shortened.

I have blazers that working and fake holes, and it has not made a difference; although it is nicer to have working buttons because one can appreciate the worksmanships. Only on one of the blazers, do I have two of the four buttons undone, but that is more to do with the style.
 

Scoundrel

Advanced Member
2,174
If one were to replace the cheap buttons with betters buttons, then, wouldn't one also have to do the same for the pants, so all the buttons would match? I don't see mother of pearl working with suits.
 

GBR

Super Member
1,734
Buttons on a suit should surely be of horn. MoP is for shirts.

As to button holes, leave them in the form they came, the quaint US custom of adding working holes seems somehow false. Making a silk purse out of a sow's ear comes to mind.
 

dfloyd

Advanced Member
2,220
I have real button holes put on all my suits and sport coats ....

I think they definitely add something to the overall look. The jacket has to be prepped for this to work, as are all the BB 1818 jackets. Jackets which already have button holes or those faux buttons with thread around the non-existant holes will gernerally not work. You can't get the sleeves short enough to show 1/2" of cuff. I wouldn't wear the faux type since they are just not the image I wish to project. I have BB shorten the sleeves to the proper length and position the buttons; then, I have a second fitting. The BB tailor didn't want to position the buttons correctly, but after they screwed up a jacket and I would not purchase it, he decided to do it my way with sleeves shortened and buttons positioned correctly.

In your case, a tailor would have to see if the jacket was properly prepped. While Canali is usually a pretty good suit, I have surprisingly seen them on the rack with faux holes.

I have seen many Brit suits with button holes on rtw, so don't say this comes totally from the US. It is silly to say that an rtw suit should not have working buttons. If the jacket is properly prepped, there is no problem. As for silk purses out of sow ears, that is what we Aerican thought when we had to give you Brits lendlease aftwer WWII.
 
Last edited:

Cardcaptor Charlie

Inactive user
1,525
By all means make them working only if the sleeve is correct in length and you trust your tailor's skills. A good high end jacket should have the sleeves lined in such a way that you only need to remove the old stitches, cut and sew the buttonholes, etc. Most jackets line the sleeve with the lining across the cuff opening slit requiring the tailor to realign the lining, etc.
 

gnatty8

Super Member
1,885
United States
TN
Knoxville
To answer your original question, I see no reason to have your tailor either add "fake" stitching (I think the reason why is contained right there) or working buttonholes. If the coat came with buttons attached, chances are that adding working buttonholes will require a lot of labor and a lot of cost to you. I personally simply have the buttons put back, no fake stitching or working buttonholes.
 

maestrom

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
101
United States
California
San Francisco
Stitching

To answer your original question, I see no reason to have your tailor either add "fake" stitching (I think the reason why is contained right there) or working buttonholes. If the coat came with buttons attached, chances are that adding working buttonholes will require a lot of labor and a lot of cost to you. I personally simply have the buttons put back, no fake stitching or working buttonholes.
On my suits, I prefer the fake stitching. I get most from Brooks, and I think it looks weird when the buttons are just sewn on. Adding working buttonholes seems a bit much; they are meant to be a sign of craftsmanship, particularly on bespoke suits. Run of the mill 1818 suits don't need working buttonholes.
 

ToryBoy

Advanced Member
2,694
I have seen many Brit suits with button holes on rtw, so don't say this comes totally from the US. It is silly to say that an rtw suit should not have working buttons.
This depends on the brand, Hackett and Aquascutum have working cuffs on some their lower-end suits
 

gnatty8

Super Member
1,885
United States
TN
Knoxville
This depends on the brand, Hackett and Aquascutum have working cuffs on some their lower-end suits
I recently saw some Perry Ellis suits at Dillards with working buttonholes at the cuffs.. Cost was under $250.
 
Ratio Clothing Custom Shirts