Wilx

Starting Member
21
Latvia
Riga
Riga
Few questions from a newbie here (not very active on this forum even though have been registered for some time). Also I’m not English speaking person so I hope my grammar won’t offend you.

Shorts. How they actually should fit? I mean should they stick to your skin or should there be some kind of gap or free space between your leg and the shorts themselves? For example, what you think of these shorts? Do they fit me? Or are they too big for me because of that gap?




See there is a gap between my skin and the shorts


Shirts. I’ve noticed following things – there are lots of shirts that fit me well in shoulders but the length of sleeves is very long. Was surprised to see that this happens also with brand ones like Calvin Klein, not only Zara. Here are an examples of what I mean.






Sleeve looks wavy – what can I do with this? The worst part about it is that almost all shirts that I find in stores are like that – they are good in shoulders but sleeves are too freaking long…


These are Calvin Klein shirts but as you can see there is a wavy kind of thing on the sleeves. I don’t know how do you call this in English (tell me please) but in Russian we call it accordion because it looks like caterpillar. I hope you get what I mean. I know that if you buy a blazer with long sleeves then it’s possible to fix it. But what about the shirts? How do I find the shirt that wouldn’t look wavy on the sleeves? Or how do I fix it if it is wavy? Or I shouldn’t bother that much about those waves?

Blazers. OK, I saw these ones at Zara and now considering to buy them so I need your advices. What confuses me are following things.




X-letter (also sleeve is a bit confusing me too)


First of all, I can see there is a form of like an X-letter in the middle of blazer. Some people told me that it’s okay and it’s fashionable. Other say that there shouldn’t be any X-letter and that it just means that blazer simply doesn’t fit me.



Same thing here too


Also I noticed some kind of sail thing popping out when I try to lean on something.



Looks like sail on wind


Shoes. Is it possible to replace shoe trees with simple paper or newspapers? I’ve heard that Italians don’t use shoe trees at all. Someone told me that you can easily get away with simple paper. Is it true?




Clarks




Hugo Boss




Shoe trees


Also I have these shoe trees. Is it OK to use them with these kind of shoes? On the first picture there are Clarks shoes. On the second one there are Hugo Boss. HB in my opinion has more quadratic nose (or how is called that front part) than Clarks. Is it OK to use the same shoe trees for them both (shoe trees are from Ecco)?
 

SG_67

Connoisseur
14,560
United States
Illinois
Chicago
The shorts are fine. Probably a bit too tight for me, but then you’re a young guy with a totally different aesthetic than me.

The shirt sleeves can be taken up by an alterations tailor but at some point the the cost is prohibitive and you’re better off getting a proper dress shirt vs. a fashion brand shirt.

The jacket is simply too tight. All of the problems along the body of the jacket are due to a combination of poor craftsmanship and to a larger degree, too tight of a fit.

I use crumpled paper in softer constructed shoes (deck shoes, soft loafers, etc.) but in proper dress shoes, I use shoe trees.
 

JBierly

Advanced Member
2,831
United States
Tennessee
Chattanooga
You are a thin person so you get to wear clothing that fits a bit snugger. But not too snug. The shorts are fine (if you go tighter they will not flatter you). Indeed, clothing that is too tight makes your legs look too skinny. Now if you think it is attractive to have skinny legs then go for it. Same on the jacket. It is true that the current fashion trend is to have jackets that are tight when buttoned. I would encourage you to not have so much pull that it creates an X. So standing straight, jacket closed, no X. If you move and it pulls a smidge that's probably ok but for me I still don't think it's ideal. I have a few jackets like this and although I think they look ok a bit more room is more comfortable. If you buy jackets this tight you will learn that it just isn't comfortable to button them. Finally, sleeve length is too long and those shirts probably aren't worth shortening. High end fashion brands usually include fixing the sleeves but are very costly. The better option is to find a shirt manufacturer that you like that makes shirts that have a designated sleeve size. Lastly, I think you can find nicer shoe trees at a decent price.
 

eagle2250

Connoisseur/Curmudgeon Emeritus - Moderator
30,078
Harmony, FL
United States
Florida
Harmony
I am not a fan of skin tight clothing...at least, not any more. Even a Continental fit is not that close. I don't mean to be cruel, but in several of the pictures included in the OP, it appears the garments were almost spray painted on you...those trousers and those 'nut hugging' jeans just cannot be comfortable. Why bind yourself up so tightly and uncomfortably? MY suggestion to you would be to start over and try buying clothes that fit you in a way that allows air space between your garments and your skin.

Again, I'm trying to be helpful, not hurtful and intended no insult by this post.
 

EclecticSr.

Super Member
1,251
United States
New York
Coram
eagle2250, you practically took the words out of my mouth. To offer advise on X shirt or Y jacket in his case is to encourage the total look. I find that an antithesis to the general opinion of what dressing well is about on the forum, though some have pointed out certain aspects of the look.

To the OP, I'll echo eagles sentiment, I'm trying to be helpful, not hurtful and intended no insult by this post.
 

SG_67

Connoisseur
14,560
United States
Illinois
Chicago
Wilx,
Again, you’re a young guy with a different sense of style than most of us here.

However, there’s no rule that says to dress in a more hip and modern style one must sacrifice proper fit.

You’re shopping mostly fast fashion brands. Perhaps this is all your budget will allow and if thats the case, it’s ok. I would still urge you to seek a better fit. You’re a pretty slender guy and perfect for how these clothes are designed to be worn. A bit more experimentation and you’ll hit your mark.
 
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jackmccullough

Honors Member
4,142
United States
Vermont
Montpelier
First off, welcome, and good job on trying to up your game.

I agree with a lot of what's been said. The jacket is just too tight, so there's no way it will look good (especially to someone of my age!).

I don't think the shorts are too tight or too loose, but they're too long for my taste. Of course, I have a very hard time finding shorts short enough for me.

As to the shirts, you may be buying shirts that come sized S-M-L-XL. That's part of what they're saying when they say you're shopping for "fashion brands". If you go up a little more in price you can get shirts sized by collar and sleeve length, which will give you a better chance to find what really fits you.

Also, and this is something you didn't ask our opinion on, but those second shoes are about as far as I'd want to go toward a chisel toe. Probably a matter of taste, but I think something more rounded (but not too rounded) is a better look.
 

Sam H

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
130
United States
New York
New York
I'm a guy probably close to your age. Basically, as far as mall brand jackets like Zara go, they just will not be constructed super nicely. They will fit in the more modern fitted sense but the construction just isn't there so once you start to get an eye for the things about fit that can be off (as you seem to already have) you won't be satisfied.

I have a really cool Zara velvet blazer that I switched the buttons out on and I used to love it but now all I see is the same stuff you do and I don't wear it anymore. I don't really have a good answer here. It depends on your budget plus how much this stuff bothers you. Fast fashion blazers will have these issues but also people will think you look cool probably, maybe cooler than the way a messageboard would dress you, even. I am too OCD to not see these things but my cheaper, worse-fitting jackets end up getting more positive comments for their edginess in materials etc then the jackets that I really personally like and would be more agreeable to internet menswear enthusiasts.

As for shirts, I can only imagine the reason why RTW shirts have these sleeves is to account for people with long arms. I used to buy RTW shirts and spend an extra $20-30 getting them tailored. Now I only by shirts from a local tailor. That's cheaper than custom shirts from global luxury brands like T&A but still more expensive than RTW so I get if that's not an option but there is a threshold in price you might cross with RTW + tailoring where you realize it becomes worth it. Furthermore, there are cheaper mail-order services that do custom shirts which, while I jumped over them between my RTW days and local NYC tailor (Cego) days, may be a step up in quality to price ratio.

I think the shorts look fine and it's probably just a cut/preference issue you are referring to. If you don't like the way they look then don't buy them, I've certainly seen shorts that "fit" but don't look good based on how they land on the thigh.

Shoe trees I have for every pair of shoes I own. But does it matter? Who knows :D Once again I'm probably just OCD and I get off to the idea that the cedar wood is absorbing bacteria and perfuming the shoe with natural mold repellent cedar oil. But that is probably quackery and magical thinking on my part :D

As for tight clothes, I don't think there is anything wrong with clothes on the more fitted/tight end of the spectrum but as I got deeper into menswear I realized I don't like the skin-tight look that has been pushed now for a while. It's pushback against fashionable baggyness from the 90s/early 00s as well as the idea from uninformed shoppers that every suit is shapeless and conservative unless it's skin tight. At some point you realize a suit that fits your shoulders and tapers and darts around you looks better than too-short/too-tight/too-high tailored clothes that became more and more popular in the late 00's/early 10s. So for example maybe with Zara go up a size and see if it smoothes out some of the fit issues while recognizing skin tight is what people will do when they want to go to a "2010s party" in 30 years. However, I get the appeal of fitted/tailored look clothes as I'm a 29 year old and I know that there is pushback from some of the more conservative attitudes you'll see online, I just want to try and help you see what I realized a few years ago myself which is that a non-sack jacket which fits is much more flattering as a fitted jacket than a skin-tight jacket that doesn't fit at all.
 
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Wilx

Starting Member
21
Latvia
Riga
Riga
Hello, I need quick advice. I ordered custom pink shirt and tomorrow I need to decide following things:

- the color of patches (I don’t know what matches with pink, I tried to Google but couldn’t find any men pink shirts with patches)

- I also have to decide do I need extras listed on the pictures below (Contrast) and what colors should I choose (the shirt itself going to be pink)



the color of my upcoming shirt




I have to decide the color of patches for pink shirt




These are the extras that come with separate colors – and I have same problem here too: can’t choose the color since the shirt itself is going to be pink (also not sure if I need all those extras)


Need your advice ASAP, thank you in advance.
 

SG_67

Connoisseur
14,560
United States
Illinois
Chicago
Patches? We don’t got no patches! WE DON’T NEED NO STINKIN’ PATCHES!

Sorry, couldn’t help it.
 
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