Good quality wing collar for the money?

gmcquary

New Member
34
Can anyone recommend a good quality wing collar and shirt for the money?

It's to go with a black peak lapel tail coat and R Hanauer bowtie.
 

Bertie Wooster

Super Member
1,417
One option would be Budd. Whilst sadly they have no presence on the net, they are said by many to have the best range of formal shirts and collar shapes around.
I'm assuming this is for evening formal wear ? Don't forget that you're looking for single link cuffs and a boiled front.
If your needs aren't so specific then try Harvie and Hudson. Double cuff neckband shirt will run about £50 or so, and collars about £10.
 

Lucky Strike

Active Member with Corp. Privileges
125
There's this:

http://www.vintageshirt.co.uk/

Much of what they sell are meant as theatrical period costume, but if you have a look around their website, they have seemingly good quality separate collars and shirts, and such. Seems very good value for money.
 

Anthony Jordan

Super Member
1,481
UK
Rhonda Cynon Taff
Pontypridd
Ede and Ravenscroft and New and Lingwood both have a good range of collars; Ede is somewhat cheaper. Both have an online presence, although I currently can't get onto the Ede site (collars are under "legal".)

http://www.newandlingwood.com/category.php?id=9&page=2

Budd, as Bertie mentions, are one of the few places that still supply shirts with plain boiled (as opposed to pique) fronts. I think Harvie and Hudson may be another.
 

horseman

Starting Member
5
Lebanon
Beirut
Beirut
Darcy Clothing is also a good source. In the meantime, I have a question. When wearing Morning attire...i.e morning coat, striped trousers, etc. is it acceptable to wear a stiff, detachable wing collar and boiled-front shirt? I do prefer this look and there are many examples, photos etc . of gentlemen in the '30's and '40 's wearing Morning attire with the wing collar. Some folks say that it is now inappropriate and others say it is fine. May I kindly have the thoughts of the people on here ? Thank you !!
 

horseman

Starting Member
5
Lebanon
Beirut
Beirut
I had forgotten to ask if anyone knows of a good source for vintage men's attire..especially formal ? I am also searching for the traditional black and silver 4-in-hand necktie which had always been seen with Morning attire. I've tried all of the formal-wear stores...Ede, Budd, New & Lingwood, Brooks, etc...and no one carries them. Thank you in advance for any help.
 

Lukan

New Member
60
UK
Essex
Loughton
Darcy Clothing is also a good source. In the meantime, I have a question. When wearing Morning attire...i.e morning coat, striped trousers, etc. is it acceptable to wear a stiff, detachable wing collar and boiled-front shirt? I do prefer this look and there are many examples, photos etc . of gentlemen in the '30's and '40 's wearing Morning attire with the wing collar. Some folks say that it is now inappropriate and others say it is fine. May I kindly have the thoughts of the people on here ? Thank you !!
I think stiff-fronted shirts were worn with day-dress in the late Victorian era. If you squint enough at a high quality photos from the era you can sometimes make out that characteristic flatness or a shirt stud. It definitely fell out of fashion post-Great War, most 'fashion dress code' charts and grids mention them with day-dress around the 10s and 20s, but they definitely became uncommon. You can also see men wearing pleated shirts with their summer day clothes sometimes.

Stiff single cuffs with day clothes lasted a bit longer. I think I've seen Kennedy and the Duke of Edinburgh wear them (whether they wore bespoke detached ones or had it specially laundered each time even without a stiff front is beyond me though).

By that notion, the British term 'evening shirt' is a bit of a misnomer, or at least only applicable now.

People do still wear wing collars with morning coats but it's uncommon for an already uncommon dress code -- wearing flacid pre-attached ones is unfortunately more common.

Some people here would wince at wing collars here for morning dress - but as long as you keep the rest of your outfit fairly conservative and not dandish, you'll just look quite smart, especially if you just use a four in hand tie. (On that note of wanting a wedding tie, if looking for grey or silver ties or ties on those websites doesnt help, try Sam Hober or Fort Belvedere, they're not for me personally but they have them I believe.

The stiff front if it has no Marcella pattern should be fine for day dress. It would be showing the studs with a bowtie instead of a necktie, or having a Marcella pattern, that would make you look dandish or costume-like IMO. It's a subtle way to have a very sharp outfit that most people won't notice. I'd avoid anything other than plain gold or silver studs though, in case they are seen.

I think I once read something about the Queen lamenting their demise, at least with evening clothes, when in conversation with someone in Mess Dress, since a lot of armed forces dress codes stipulate soft shirts for black tie now.